Southeast Tennessee Rock Climbing Guide

Home , Bouldering, Climbing area, Face climbing, Pocket wilderness, Rock climbing

rock climbing in Southeast tennessee map legend This guide is made possible by:

sedev.org

Note: Climbing areas without stars are not highlighted in this brochure.

rock climbing in Southeast tennessee

The Chattanooga area, long recognized as an East Coast capital for rock climbing, sits at the center of a sandstone band of cliffs and boulder fields scattered up and down the edge of the Cumberland Plateau. This incredible climbing destination offers something for everyone, whether you are looking for classic crack climbs, steep sport routes or perfect boulder problems. While many climbers may be familiar with areas such as T-Wall and Stone Fort, there is an expanding inventory of crags and boulder fields that are being established and opened to the public. This guide highlights a collection of the Nashville Knoxville most popular climbing areas within an hour’s Chattanooga drive of Chattanooga. For more information about travel adventures in Birmingham Atlanta the region, visit SoutheastTennessee.com

Cover Photo: Ed Williams on Stan’s Crack, Sunset Rock. Photo Courtesy of Shannon Millsaps table of contents 5 Area Climbing Destination Page

Prentice T-Wall 6 Cooper State Suck Creek 7 Forest

Lookout Sunset Park 8 Mountain Jasper / Fiery Castle Rock 9 Gizzard Gorge Foster Falls 10 Denny Cove 11 Mowbray Stone Fort 12 Mountain Leda 13 Pep Boys 14 Soddy Creek Deep Creek 16 Gorge Big Soddy 17 Laurel Snow Laurel Falls / 18 Pocket Buzzard Point Wilderness Dayton Pocket 19 Georgia Rocktown 20 Alabama Little River Canyon 21

CLIMBING STYLE: Areas are color coded by the predominant style: SPORT: Climbing on cliffs with ropes & fixed protection (bolts) TRAD: Climbing on cliffs with ropes & removable protection BOULDERING: Climbing on boulders over crash pads DIRECTIONS: Coordinates and address information are provided for driving directions to climbing areas. Additional directions and parking information are provided as needed. DRIVE TIME: All driving times are calculated from Chattanooga. APPROACH: Use hiking directions as a supplement to the topos. ACCESS: Please visit seclimbers.org for the latest access information on climbing areas. DOGS: All dogs in Tennessee State Parks must be kept on leash. GUIDES: This brochure is not intended to be an exhaustive list of climbing areas or a substitute for published guide books. Any climber looking to visit these areas is encouraged to purchase one of the guide books referenced throughout this brochure. icon legend DRIVE TIME FEE HIKE TIME CAMPING

DOGS PERMITTED BLUE HOLE

60 50 Trad Sport 40 30 20 10 140 120 0

Trad Sport 11 5.8 5.9 100 5.7 5. 5.13 5.10 5.12 5.14 80 60 40 20 0 5.8 5.9 5.7

GrundenDonald GentryMicah 5. 11 5.10 5.12 5.13 5.14

Recommended Routes: Golden Locks, 5.8+; Stone Wave, 5.11; Recommended Routes: Rockwork Orange, 5.10-; Rainbow Delta, 5.11 Twistin’ in the Wind, 5.12c (sport) tennessee wall TRAD/SPORT Suck Creek TRAD This bright orange cliff line perched above the Tennessee River For experienced trad climbers looking for more adventure and Gorge is arguably the most popular trad climbing destination less traffic, Suck Creek has much to offer. This collection of cliffs in the Southeast. With over 600 established lines, this 2-mile lining the rim of Suck Creek Canyon is absent of both crowds cliff offers all variety and grades of classic trad climbing, as well and chalk, despite the proximity to Chattanooga. Climbers as an impressive list of hard sport routes. T-Wall is particularly venturing up this less-charted vertical terrain will have their well-known for classic crack climbs, big roofs and plentiful pick of intrepid trad climbs with plenty of type 2 fun. protection on some of the best stone in the region. This south- SEASON: Fall to spring facing cliff receives all-day sun, making it the ideal winter climbing crag for anyone with a rack. ACCESS: The Arena and Concentration Camp climbing areas are part of Prentice Cooper State Forest, where climbing is SEASON: Fall to early spring, best in winter prohibited during hunt dates. Call 423-658-5551 for more ACCESS: T-Wall is part of the Prentice Cooper State Forest, information. managed by the Tennessee Department of Agriculture. PARKING: Climbing areas are approached from several pull- Climbing in Prentice Cooper is prohibited during seasonal offs on a 2-mile stretch of hunting dates. Call 423-658-5551 for more information. Suck Creek Rd. after crossing 35.142312, -85.387319 APPROACH: Suck Creek Rd The approach trail is located directly across over Suck Creek. Do not leave Chattanooga, TN 37405 from the parking area on Mullens Cove Rd. The majority of valuables in the car. established lines are located to the 35.069038, -85.398932 APPROACH: Approaches can Roadside right of the waterfall. Mullens Cove Rd be long and steep, and some GUIDE: Tennessee Wall Rock Whitwell, TN 37397 require crossing Suck Creek. Climbing, Chatt Trad, Dixie GUIDE: Chatt Trad, Dixie Cragger’s Atlas, Chatt Steel Cragger’s Atlas Concentration Camp

15-30 min. Upper Passes 30 min. 5-30 min. 0.25 MILES The Primitive camping Arena 0.25 MILES 20 min. 8 9

25 100 20 80 15 60 40 10

20 5 0 0 11 5.8 5.9 Micah GentryMicah 5.7

GentryMichah 5. 11 5.10 5.12 5.13 5.14 5.8 5.9 5.7 5.

5.10 5.12 5.13 5.14

Recommended Routes: Windwalker 5.9; Golden Years 5.11- Recommended Routes: Orange 5.10a; Apes on Acid 5.13d

Sunset rock TRAD castle rock SPORT Sunset Rock, sitting on the northwest brow of Lookout This sandstone turret overlooking the town of Jasper is known Mountain, was one of the first crags established in the region. for its high concentration of classic face climbing on perfect The high quality rock, ease of access, and scenic locale has rock with some great exposure. In recent years, a growing been attracting climbers since the 1960s. The northern number of moderate climbs have been developed, broadening orientation of the cliff keeps many of these routes in the the appeal of this area. shade for much of the day, making Sunset an excellent warm- SEASON: Fall to spring weather crag for trad climbers. Climbers that reach the top of the cliff are rewarded with great views of the Tennessee River ACCESS: Castle Rock is a privately owned climbing area and downtown Chattanooga. leased by the SCC. Please keep noise to a minimum and be out by dark. See Seclimbers.org for more information. SEASON: Spring to fall PARKING: Turn right off of Hwy. 41 at Greystone sign and ACCESS: Sunset Rock is part of Chickamauga National follow gravel drive to parking area. Text the make and model Battlefield Park on Lookout Mountain (706-866-9241). Sunset of your vehicle to the closes at sunset. phone number (Castle 35.107284, -85.636438 PARKING: Cravens House is 35.013815, -85.341172 Rock owner) posted in US-41 now the designated parking 915 Cravens Terrace the lot. If the lot is full, Sequatchie, TN 37374 area for climbers. Parking Chattanooga, TN 37409 please climb elsewhere. at the small trailhead lot is APPROACH: Hike Greystone Sign limited to 30 minutes and not Cravens through the stone yard House to be used for climbing access. and up the 4 x 4 trail to APPROACH: Hike up Bluff the crag. Trail from Cravens House to GUIDE: Chatt Steel Sunset Rock. GUIDE: Chatt Trad, Dixie Castle Cragger’s Atlas Rock Sunset Rock

15-30 min. 10-20 min. 0.25 MILES 0.25 MILES 20 min. 40 min. 10 11 Micah GentryMicah

50 40 30 20 10 0 11 Adam Johnson Adam 5.8 5.9 5.7

5. 5.10 5.12 5.13 5.14

Recommended Routes: Holy War, 5.9; Gas Chamber, 5.12d Recommended Routes: Three Star Salad Bar 5.9 +; One Legged Red 5.11b

Foster falls SPORT Denny cove SPORT Foster Falls, located north of Jasper within South Cumberland This brand new sport crag, located just south of Foster Falls, State Park, is one of the most popular sport climbing offers more than 100 routes from 5.8 to 5.14, with a few fun destinations in the Southeast. The concentration of high- trad routes thrown in. Techy vertical faces and a plethora of quality routes of all grades means that there is something big, steep lines will keep climbers of all kinds entertained. for everyone. The climbing ranges from slightly overhanging Denny Cove was purchased by the SCC with the help of the to steep, and is often pumpy and technical. The swimming Access Fund, and transferred to South Cumberland State Park hole at Foster Falls and several shaded cliffs attract climbers in 2017. throughout much of the summer. SEASON: Fall to spring SEASON: Year-round, best in fall ACCESS: Denny Cove is now part of South Cumberland State ACCESS: Foster Falls is part of South Cumberland State Park Park. The access road is gated after dark. See Seclimbers.org (931-924-2980). The gate to for the latest access info. 35.182148, -85.672996 the park is closed after dark. PARKING: 498 Foster Falls Rd The entrance to Denny Cove is one mile south of APPROACH: Hike to the Sequatchie, TN 37374 Foster Falls. The new parking lot is located on a gated access base of Foster Falls and turn road on the left side of US Hwy. 41, directly across the street left after the bridge to access from the Foster Falls Volunteer Fire Station (see topo). the climber’s loop. FosterFoster FallsFalls APPROACH: The trail from the parking lot kiosk crosses GUIDE: Chatt Steel, Dixie the road and descends a gully to a fork in the trail. Turn left Cragger’s Atlas (toward waterfall) for Denny Right. Head right on the trail for Denny Left.

0.25 MILES 35.15826, -85.68194 0.5 MILES US-41 Sequatchie, TN 37374 15 min. Fire Station 45 min. 15 min. Car camping available March - Nov. and billed DennyDenny CoveCove on a per-site basis. 45 min. SoutheastTennessee.com 12 150 13

100

0 1 V9 V1 V2 V4 V7 V0 V3 V6 V8 V5

V10 V1 V12

18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2

Brian Taylor Brian GentryMicah 0

5.8 5.9 5.7 5. 11 5.10 5.12 5.13 5.14

Recommended Boulders: Art of the Vogi V3; Deception V7 Recommended Routes: Guardian Angel 5.9; Kent Belew’s Original Route 5.11 stone fort BOULDERING leda SPORT Stone Fort is one of the most popular boulder fields in Leda sits on the edge of Mowbray Mountain above the the country and hosts the second leg of the Triple Crown switchbacks on Montlake Road. This roadside crag is the Bouldering Series. This dense maze of sandstone has an go-to spot for convenience climbing close to town. The large unmatched concentration of classic bouldering for all selection of moderate sport climbs located minutes from the skill levels. Stone Fort offers a wide variety of angles and car makes Leda a great place for half-days and for beginning styles, but is best known for gently overhanging face climbing climbers. on iron rails, slopers and perfect edges. SEASON: Fall to spring SEASON: Fall to spring, best in winter ACCESS: Leda is owned by Montlake Golf Course. A day pass ACCESS: Stone must be purchased at the Montlake Golf Course club house Fort is owned by 35.24906, -85.217919 (9104 Brow Lake Rd., Soddy-Daisy, TN). Place your receipt on Montlake Golf 9104 Brow Lake Rd the dash of your car before hiking in to climb. Leda is closed Course, which Soddy Daisy, TN 37379 after dark. See Seclimbers.org for more information. sells required day PARKING: Park across from Terrace Falls Drive off Montlake passes at the club Stone Rd. Do not park in any of the pull-offs on Montlake Road (see house. Bouldering Fort topo). on the fairway is APPROACH: Upper Leda is located downhill from the not permitted. Club Stone Fort is closed 0.25 MILES House designated parking area. after dark. See GUIDE: Chatt Steel, Dixie Cragger’s Atlas Seclimbers.org 35.23705, -85.22154 for additional information. Montlake Rd Soddy Daisy, TN 37379 GUIDE: Stone Fort Bouldering 5-10 min.

5 min. Leda 20 min.

25 min. SoutheastTennessee.com 14 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 13 11 V1 V2 V4 V7 V0 V3 V6 V8 V9 V5 V12 V10 V V Brian Taylor Brian

Recommended Boulders: Salo’s Roof V9; Riverside, V5

Pep boys BOULDERING If the crowded maze at Stone Fort is not your scene, head just down the road to a small, but concentrated, boulder field located right off the Cumberland Trail. Pep Boys is best known for steep lines such as Salo’s Roof, but also offers a wide range of fun moderates. SEASON: Fall to spring, best in winter ACCESS: Pep Boys is part of Cumberland Trail State Park (423-566-2229) and is closed after dark. PARKING: The trailhead includes parking for up to 8 35.25493, -85.20246 vehicles. 809 Mowbray Pike Soddy Daisy, TN 37379 APPROACH: Hike down the Cumberland Pep Boys Trail and past the clearing to the boulder field that starts along the creek. Preserving Climbing Areas for Future 5 min. Generations

25 min. 0.25 MILES

Linden Taber on Puppy Ride, Tennessee Wall Photo: Alma Baste 16 17 Micah GentryMicah GentryMicah

70 20 60 15 50 Trad Sport 40 10 30 20 5 10 0 0 11 11 5.8 5.9 5.7 5.8 5.9 5. 5. 5.10 5.12 5.13 5.14 5.10 5.12 5.13 5.14 Recommended Routes: Leakage, 5.12a; The Last Waltz, 5.13b Recommended Routes: Gift from Nature 5.8+; Air Nimbus 5.13 a/b (sport) deep creek SPORT Big soddy SPORT/TRAD This sport crag, located off the Cumberland Trail at the Just a 15-minute hike past Deep Creek and across the Soddy confluence of Deep Creek and Soddy Creek, has recently Creek bridge is Big Soddy. When the steep shady climbing emerged as one of the most popular climbing areas in the at Deep Creek falls out of season, Big Soddy comes into its region. The climbing is characterized by steep overhangs with prime. These tall south-facing cliffs offer a mix of trad and plenty of slopers and bouldery movement that will test your sport routes with great exposure on vertical faces and big power endurance. The dense canopy and nearby swimming roofs with big air. holes make Deep Creek a great warm-weather crag for SEASON: Fall to spring climbers in search of steep sport routes. ACCESS: See Deep Creek. SEASON: Late spring to fall PARKING: See Deep Creek. ACCESS: Deep Creek and Big Soddy are part of Cumberland Trail State Park (423-566-2229) and can be accessed from a APPROACH: Follow the trail from the parking lot kiosk gated parking area owned and managed by the SCC. The gate and drop down 35.2957, -85.19505 code can be found at Seclimbers.org. These climbing areas switchbacks to Deep Old Hotwater Rd are closed after dark. Parking overnight in the SCC lot is not Creek. Cross the Soddy Daisy, TN 37379 permitted. Deep Creek bridge and head right along PARKING: Make a sharp left off Old Hotwater Rd. onto a the CT. Cross the gravel road to reach the SCC parking lot (see topo). Lock the Big Soddy Creek gate when entering and leaving the lot. Big Suspension Bridge Soddy APPROACH: Follow the trail downhill and across the Deep and hike up hill to Creek bridge to reach the main wall. the Big Soddy cliff. Deep Creek GUIDE: Chatt Steel GUIDE: Chatt Trad

35.2957, -85.19505 25 min. Old Hotwater Rd Soddy Daisy, TN 37379 30-45 min. 0.25 MILES

25 min. 15-30 min. LAUREL FALLS 18 10 19 8 6

4 Johnson Adam 2 0 11 5.8 5.9 5.7 5. 5.12 5.10 5.13 5.14

BUZZARD POINT 30 25 20 20 15 15 10 10 5 5 0 11 5.8 5.9 5.7 5. 5.10 5.12 5.13 5.14 0 1 Micah GentryMicah V1 V2 V4 V7 V0 V6 V8 V9 V3 V5 V1 V12 V10

Recommended Routes: Laurel Falls: The Jackal, 5.14a ; The Last Boy Scout, 5.12b Recommended Boulders : Riverdance V9; Western Gold V10 Buzzard Point: Soul Sounds, 5.13a ; Crankasaurus, 5.11a laurel falls dayton pocket BOULDERING buzzard point SPORT/TRAD Dayton Pocket is home to the highest concentration of double-digit boulders in the Southeast. The classic The Laurel-Snow Pocket Wilderness, just west of Dayton, is Honeycomb Roof offers a gym-like selection of roof problems perfect for the 5.12+ sport climber looking for king lines with that will stay dry in a downpour. Hiking along Richland no lines. Climbers that make the 40+ minute trek to Laurel Creek exposes a vast quantity of creek blocs that feature some Falls are rewarded with some of the best hard sport climbing of the highest quality bouldering in the region and lines of all in the region. Climbers that continue to Buzzard Point will grades awaiting development. find an even larger collection of 3-Star sport climbs and SEASON: Fall to spring, best in winter panoramic views of the Pocket Wilderness. ACCESS: See Laurel Falls/ SEASON: Fall to spring Buzzard Point. 35.52619, -85.021746 ACCESS: The access road for the Laurel-Snow trail head is DIRECTIONS: See Laurel 1098 Pocket Wilderness Rd gated at sunset. Laurel-Snow Pocket Wilderness is managed by Falls/Buzzard Point. Dayton, TN Cumberland Trail State Park (423-566-2229). APPROACH: Boulders are DIRECTIONS: The Laurel-Snow Pocket Wilderness trail head located just off the trail for 2 is located at the end of a gated gravel road (Pocket Wilderness miles along Richland Creek, Laurel Rd.) on the left side of Back Valley Rd. on the slopes to the right Falls APPROACH: Follow the trail along Richland Creek for 1.7 miles of the trail, and along the to a metal bridge over Laurel Creek. Take a right at the fork and approach to Laurel Falls. The continue uphill to Laurel Falls cliff line. To reach Buzzard Point closest bouldering area, the go left at the fork to reach a footbridge over Richland Creek. Honeycomb Roof, can be Hike uphill for about a mile to the base of the cliff and hike left found on the cliff line above along the cliff line to the base of Buzzard Point. the ruins of the old mine. Buzzard GUIDE: Chatt Steel, Dixie Point Cragger’s Atlas 10-40 min. Honey Comb Roof 40-60 min. 45 min. 0.25 MILES Backcountry camping Backcountry camping 45 min. with permit with permit. 20 21 Micah GentryMicah Adam Johnson Adam

100 80 60 40 20 0 1 V1 V2 V4 V7 V0 V3 V6 V8 V9 V5

V1 V12 V10 V13 5.8 5.9 5.7 5. 11 5.10 5.12 5.13 5.14 Recommended Routes: Golden Harvest V10; The Hobbit V5 Recommended Routes: Tangerine, 5.12a; Caliban, 5.13a/b Recommended Boulders: Haiku V6; Engagement Arete V7 rocktown BOULDERING little river Every year climbers from across the country flock to canyon SPORT/BOULDERING Rocktown for some of the best bouldering that the South has to offer. Rocktown is best known for its steep climbing Little River Canyon is the largest and steepest sport climbing on featured rock with great friction and plenty of slopers. destination within an hour’s drive of Chattanooga. A Boulders are scattered in clusters across a half-mile variety of cliff orientations allow climbers to chase sun or stretch of forest on top of Pigeon Mountain. As a result, shade, while the overhanging terrain makes it easy to find Rocktown rarely feels crowded, despite its popularity. dry rock in the rain. The canyon is also filled with boulders and swimming holes along the river that attract climbers SEASON: Late fall to early spring, best in winter throughout the summer. ACCESS: Rocktown is part of the Crockford-Pigeon Mountain SEASON: Year-round Wildlife Management Area managed by the Georgia 34.3833, -85.62731 Department of Natural Resources. A GORP pass must be ACCESS: Little River Canyon National Little River Canyon Pkwy purchased from Gooutdoorsgeorgia.com to climb at Rocktown. Fort Payne, AL 35967 Preserve in managed DIRECTIONS: From Chaimberlain Rd., turn right onto by the National Park Rocky Lane and continue up Pigeon Lynn 34.637611, -85.401177 Service (256-845-3548). Overlook Mountain for 3.5 miles to a right Rocktown Rd turn on a gravel road. Turn left on Chickamauga, GA 30707 APPROACH: Climbing Concave Rocktown Rd. areas are approached Sawmill from pull-offs along Lizard APPROACH: Follow the trail for a Wall Crazy Lake Little River Canyon half-mile and bouldering areas will Campsite House Parkway. Grace’s appear on the right. GUIDE: Little River GUIDE: Rocktown Canyon Climbing Ninja Guide 0.25 MILES

Unshackled 45 min. 60 min.

Primitive camping 1 MILE 15-25 min. sites near parking Rocktown 15 min. Delicious Rock Climbing in SE Tn ad.pdf 1 5/22/17 5:12 PM

CMY

The South’s premier climbing outﬁtter since ‘87.

located in tennessee: chattanooga cleveland franklin ocoee rockcreek.com @rockcreekoutﬁtters @rockcreek @rockcreekgear Erin Leverence on Super Mario, Stone Fort Photo: Rob Pryor

sedev.org SoutheastTennessee.com