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Northern Jutland

Includes  Why Go? ...... 241 Northern Jutland, split from the rest of Jutland by the Lim- Frederikshavn. . . . . 248 fjord, wows visitors with its magnificent light and beautiful Sæby ...... 249 barren landscapes of shifting sands. The region is promoted Skagen...... 251 as ‘Lysets Land’, or the Land of Light, and if you witness the soft blue nuances by the water as day turns into night, you’ll Råbjerg Mile . . . . . 255 understand why (and begin to comprehend the region’s ap- Hirtshals ...... 255 peal to artists). Hjørring...... 257 But it’s not just painters who flock here. Windsurfers and Løkken...... 257 beach-goers make a beeline for the north the minute the Hanstholm...... 259 weather turns kind. Families head off to the zoos, aquariums and funparks, and seafood-lovers rejoice in the fresh-off-the- Klitmøller...... 260 boat catch. The area’s most coveted tourist destination is Skagen, at ’s northern tip. It’s both a civilised haven of chichi restaurants and art museums, and a wild place where na- Best Places to Eat ture calls the shots – which sums up the entire region, really. ¨¨Mortens Kro (p246) ¨¨Skagens Museum Cafe When to Go (p254) Summer is prime time to visit the north. The beaches, theme ¨¨Det Gamle Røgeri (p259) parks, festivals and activities are in full swing in July and ¨¨Abbey Road (p245) August, when accommodation prices hit their peak. The shoulder season (May, June, September) usually offers de- ¨¨Ruths Gourmet (p254) cent weather and smaller crowds. Aalborg has year-round attractions and events, includ- ing its popular Carnival celebrations in May, and plenty of Best Places to performances in its arresting new concert hall. There’s also Stay some appeal to the notion of rugging up and braving the ¨¨Villa Vendel (p258) cooler weather someplace such as Skagen, where you can admire the turbulent tides and shifting sands without the ¨¨Villa Rosa (p245) summer crowds and high-season prices. Winter is better for ¨¨Aahøj (p250) the Danish art of hygge (cosiness), after all. ¨¨Badepension Marienlund (p253) ¨¨Ruths Hotel (p254) Northern Jutland SigAalhbotsr &g Activities 241

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As you enter the cathedral from Algade,Asthe cathedral enter you An anachronism among all this newthis all among anachronism An devel W Obels Plads; W C is the town’s history museum, with arte is the town’s Once a power station, this cultural this station, iscentre power a Once concert art-househome to a theatre, venue, a couple centre, plus fitness cinema, gallery, is also Theof eateries. small tourist office worth popping in to see what’s here, so it’s happening locally. museum allows you to step off one of Aal to step off museum allows you leads to the rambling Monastery of the Holy Monastery of the Holy leads to the rambling and is home to from 1431 Ghost, which dates free; Helligåndsklostret Helligåndsklostret (www busiest shopping streetsexplore to theborg’s friary medievalin times. Franciscan a of life Entryan is via partment store on Algade; the museum is to ride the elevator pay you but free to enter, (Dkr40 per group). opment, the mid-16th-century, half-timbered mid-16th-century, the opment, Slot ( facts from prehistory to the present, and the hint at furnishings and interiors that dur merchants enjoyed Aalborg’s wealth ing the Renaissance. Museet Gråbrødrekloster Budolfi Domkirke (www marks the centre of the old townthedral everyheard be can carillon elegant its and whitewashed Its interior on the hour. hour, ambience. an almost Mediterranean creates ceiling to see colourful the foyer look up at frescoes from around 1500. The interior boasts some beautifully carved items, in cluding a gilded baroque altar and a richly detailed pulpit. Museum Historiske Aalborg (www ministrative office than a castle, but there’s a than a castle, but there’s office ministrative can visit. you small dungeon Nordkraft (www a first-class, futuristic-lookinga first-class, concert hall in 2014. opened that Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat Jun-Aug, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Jun-Aug, 2pm Sat to Mon-Fri, Sep-May) 9am-noon Sat O May- Mon-Fri 8am-3pm 2pm T O Apr- Jan-Mar) , ------UM E MUS , LANDMARK , a sum adult/child adult/child ­fru (Jom Ane

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Sights Activities & (www

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An impressive 700-sq-metreAn impressive design and Waterfront Center Utzon

The of centre hosts a changing program East of the Utzon Center there’s more there’s Center EastUtzon the of Traditionally Aalborg has flown under Traditionally POP 130,900 POP Jul) ken ­ken Par 6; o tre was finished. exhibitions on architecture, design and art; restaurant. also a high-quality there’s Aalborg, up for Things the way are on Den newdevelopment, universityincluding buildings and smart, low-cost housing for The growing student population. the city’s new addition is the shiny latest mertime a lets take outdoor pool that you dip in the . tures is the ing east from Limfjordsbroen, is a good exing east is a good from Limfjordsbroen, taking what ample of urban regeneration, area and opening it dockside was a scruffy you’llup to locals. Here restaurants, find basketball courts playground, park, a and old ice-breaker, (including an moored boats One of the bestnow a restaurant-bar). fea The Aalborg waterfront promenade, extend 1 o (www sions here to occupy for most a few vis days from architectureitors, to families, and fans party to history animals boffins. the traveller’s radar, but that could easily that but radar, traveller’s the Therechange. are enough low-key diver cent developments have seen the waterfront seen cent developments have A con focal point of the town. become the the certedrejuvenate to made being is effort industrial neglectedturn and areas central spaces into something appealing. far more mark’s fourth-largest city. It sits at the nar at sits It fourth-largest city. mark’s Limfjord (the long body point of the rowest and re in two), Jutland slices that of water Aalborg Dkr60/free; Hus architecture space, the Utzon Center, with architecture Center, the Utzon space, onits distinctive roofscape, sits pretty silver the waterfront. bills itself as ‘a dynamic It and experimental centre of culture and is the lastand building designed knowledge’ Utzon Danish architect, by celebrated Jørn famously designed the Utzon (1918–2008). he grew up in Aalborg House; Sydney Opera and died shortly aftercen this eponymous