Northern Jutland
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Northern Jutland Includes ¨ Why Go? Aalborg . 241 Northern Jutland, split from the rest of Jutland by the Lim- Frederikshavn . 248 fjord, wows visitors with its magnificent light and beautiful Sæby . 249 barren landscapes of shifting sands. The region is promoted Skagen . 251 as ‘Lysets Land’, or the Land of Light, and if you witness the soft blue nuances by the water as day turns into night, you’ll Råbjerg Mile . 255 understand why (and begin to comprehend the region’s ap- Hirtshals . 255 peal to artists). Hjørring . 257 But it’s not just painters who flock here. Windsurfers and Løkken . 257 beach-goers make a beeline for the north the minute the Hanstholm . 259 weather turns kind. Families head off to the zoos, aquariums and funparks, and seafood-lovers rejoice in the fresh-off-the- Klitmøller . 260 boat catch. The area’s most coveted tourist destination is Skagen, at Denmark’s northern tip. It’s both a civilised haven of chichi restaurants and art museums, and a wild place where na- Best Places to Eat ture calls the shots – which sums up the entire region, really. ¨ Mortens Kro (p246) ¨ Skagens Museum Cafe When to Go (p254) Summer is prime time to visit the north. The beaches, theme ¨ Det Gamle Røgeri (p259) parks, festivals and activities are in full swing in July and ¨ Abbey Road (p245) August, when accommodation prices hit their peak. The shoulder season (May, June, September) usually offers de- ¨ Ruths Gourmet (p254) cent weather and smaller crowds. Aalborg has year-round attractions and events, includ- ing its popular Carnival celebrations in May, and plenty of Best Places to performances in its arresting new concert hall. There’s also Stay some appeal to the notion of rugging up and braving the ¨ Villa Vendel (p258) cooler weather someplace such as Skagen, where you can admire the turbulent tides and shifting sands without the ¨ Villa Rosa (p245) summer crowds and high-season prices. Winter is better for ¨ Aahøj (p250) the Danish art of hygge (cosiness), after all. ¨ Badepension Marienlund (p253) ¨ Ruths Hotel (p254) 241 a first-class, futuristic-looking concert hall that opened in 2014. Aalborg POP 130,900 An anachronism among all this new devel- Things are on the way up for Aalborg, Den- opment, the mid-16th-century, half-timbered mark’s fourth-largest city. It sits at the nar- Aalborghus Slot (Slotspladsen; hdungeon rowest point of the Limfjord (the long body 8am-3pm Mon-Fri May-Oct) F is more an ad- of water that slices Jutland in two), and re- ministrative office than a castle, but there’s a cent developments have seen the waterfront small dungeon you can visit. become the focal point of the town. A con- Nordkraft CULTURAL CENTRE certed effort is being made to rejuvenate the (www .nordkraft dk;. Kjellerups Torv; h7am-11pm) central industrial areas and turn neglected Once a power station, this cultural centre is spaces into something far more appealing. home to a theatre, concert venue, art-house Traditionally Aalborg has flown under cinema, gallery, fitness centre, plus a couple the traveller’s radar, but that could easily of eateries. The small tourist office is also change. There are enough low-key diver- here, so it’s worth popping in to see what’s sions here to occupy a few days for most vis- happening locally. itors, from architecture fans to families, and NORTHER party animals to history boffins. Budolfi Domkirke CHURCH (www aalborgdomkirke. dk;. Algade 40; h9am-4pm 1 Sights & Activities Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat Jun-Aug, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, o ARCHITECTURE, MUSEUM 9am-noon Sat Sep-May) This 12th-century ca- Utzon Center N JUTLA (www .utzoncenter dk;. Slotspladsen 4; adult/child thedral marks the centre of the old town Dkr60/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, open Mon in and its elegant carillon can be heard every Jul) An impressive 700-sq-metre design and hour, on the hour. Its whitewashed interior architecture space, the Utzon Center, with creates an almost Mediterranean ambience. N its distinctive silver roofscape, sits pretty on As you enter the cathedral from Algade, D SIG A the waterfront. It bills itself as ‘a dynamic look up at the foyer ceiling to see colourful al H and experimental centre of culture and frescoes from around 1500. The interior BO T knowledge’ and is the last building designed boasts some beautifully carved items, in- S R & ACTIVITIE & by celebrated Danish architect, Jørn Utzon cluding a gilded baroque altar and a richly G (1918–2008). Utzon famously designed the detailed pulpit. Sydney Opera House; he grew up in Aalborg Aalborg Historiske Museum MUSEUM and died shortly after this eponymous cen- (www .nordmus dk;. Algade 48; adult/child Dkr30/ tre was finished. free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Dec, to 4pm The centre hosts a changing program of Jan-Mar) Just west of Budolfi Domkirke S exhibitions on architecture, design and art; is the town’s history museum, with arte- there’s also a high-quality restaurant. facts from prehistory to the present, and oWaterfront LANDMARK furnishings and interiors that hint at the The Aalborg waterfront promenade, extend- wealth Aalborg’s merchants enjoyed dur- ing east from Limfjordsbroen, is a good ex- ing the Renaissance. ample of urban regeneration, taking what Gråbrødrekloster Museet MUSEUM was a scruffy dockside area and opening it (www .nordmus dk;. Algade 19; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun up to locals. Here you’ll find restaurants, Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar) This underground a park, playground, basketball courts and museum allows you to step off one of Aal- moored boats (including an old ice-breaker, borg’s busiest shopping streets to explore the now a restaurant-bar). One of the best fea- life of a Franciscan friary in medieval times. tures is the Aalborg Havnebad (Jom fru Ane Entry is via an elevator outside Salling de- h F Par ken 6; daily mid-Jun–Aug) , a sum- partment store on Algade; the museum is mertime outdoor pool that lets you take a free to enter, but you pay to ride the elevator dip in the Limfjord. (Dkr40 per group). East of the Utzon Center there’s more new development, including university Helligåndsklostret MONASTERY buildings and smart, low-cost housing for (CW Obels Plads; adult/child Dkr50/free; htours the city’s growing student population. The 2pm Tue & Thu Jul-Aug) An alley off Algade latest addition is the shiny new Musikkens leads to the rambling Monastery of the Holy Hus (www .musikkenshus dk;. Musikkens Plads 1), Ghost, which dates from 1431 and is home to .