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Is Getting a Residence Permit Realistic? Expat Exodus? Stalin's April 2009 www.passportmagazine.ru Expat Exodus? Stalin’s Architectural legacy is Getting a residence permit realistic? Medical Help When You Need it ContentsArt 3 What’s On in Moscow 6 Opera Galina Vishnevskaya 8 Holidays 6 9 Previews 12 Clubs The Beginnings of Russia’s Club Scene 14 Theatre ‘Betrayal’ by Harold Pinter, ‘Are You A Success’ by Pavel Pryazhko 15 Exhibitions Masterpieces of Russian icon Painting XIV-XVI centuries 14 18 Ballet The Stanislavsky & Nemirovich-Danchenko Ballet 20 City Beat Scottish Dancing in Moscow Stalinist Architecture The Mayakovsky Museum 26 26 Medicine Help When You Need It 28 Book Reviews 29 Expat Life Broomball Season Winds Up Expat Exodus? 33 Directory 29 How to find English Language Books in Moscow 34 How To Find a Tennis and Badminton Court in Moscow 37 Restaurant Review Black Berry 38 Wine Tasting Parisian Wine Tour 38 40 Wine & Dine Listings 42 Out & About 45 Columns Real Estate Legal Financial 42 48 Last Word Gerald Gage, Real Estate Maestro Letter from the Publisher If you’re wondering why there is a picture of Moscow university on the cover, it’s because we live in a city that, like it or hate it, has been fundamentally gutted and rebuilt according to the designs of Stalinist architects. Probably no other capital in the world with the exception of Beijing has been so radically changed in modern times by its rulers, as probably no other peoples have been experi- mented on from a psychological point of view, for so long, as the Russians, and of course the Chinese. Whilst on the subject of experimentation, Mayakovsky did his fare share of it, and investigative arts cor- respondent Ross Hunter tries to work out, with predictable results, who this poet, revolutionary, futurist, constructivist, propagandist, cartoonist actually was. For those of us who are fearing that the end of the world is nigh, that is, we might have to leave Rus- sia, Dominic Esler provides a bit of reality amongst the scaremongering in his article Expat Exodus? Thanks to our brilliant staff of full-time and freelance writers, this edition of Passport is packed with so John Ortega many articles that I can’t mention them all here, so just sit back and enjoy. OK? Owner and Publisher Cover page, Olga Zinovieva. Symbols of Stalinist Moscow, designer Janna Yakovleva, The Tonchu Publishing House, Moscow: 2008 illustration: Julia Nozdracheva Owner and Publisher Arts Editor Accounting and Legal Services John Ortega, +7 (985) 784-2834 Alevtina Kashitsina Vista Foreign Business Support [email protected] [email protected] Trubnaya St. 25/1, Moscow +7 (495) 933-7822 Managing Director Advertising Manager Contributors George Voloshin Elena Kuznetsova Charles Borden, Ross Hunter, Daniel Klein, [email protected] [email protected] Claire Marsden, Marina Lukanina, Elena Rubiniva, Editor Designer Dominica Harrison, Andrew Mullen, Dominic Esler, John Harrison Julia Nozdracheva Dr. Olga Zinovieva, Olga Mikhailova, [email protected] [email protected] Olga Slobodkina-von Brømmsen. Deputy Editor Webmaster Elena Krivovyaz Alexey Timokhin [email protected] [email protected] Editorial Address: Published by OOO Passport Magazine. All rights reserved. Passport occasionally uses material we believe has been 42 Volgogradsky Prospekt, Bldg. 23 This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. 77- placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible Office 013, 1st floor 18639. 08.10.04 to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim 109316 Moscow, Russia Printed by Mozhaysky Poligrafichesky Kombinat ownership of something we have published, we will be 93 Mir Street, 143200 Mozhaysk, Russia pleased to make a proper acknowledgment. Tel. +7 (495) 978-2012 Fax +7 (495) 620-0888 www.passportmagazine.ru 4 April 2009 What’s On in Moscow Wednesday, 1st Friday, 3rd The Charity Curling Cup 2009 presidents of The USA (rock) Cesaria Evora (Creole singer) (tournament held in aid of dis- Rock-band from Seattle Nicknamed the “barefoot diva” for her abled children). Team players B2 club, 20:00 barefoot performances, Evora is the best needed: no curling experience internationally-known practitioner of morna. necessary. State Kremlin Palace, 19:00 Contact Natalia Yakovleva who is a flu- ent English speaker on: (495) 798-30-66 “Moskvich” Sport Complex, Volgograd- sky Prospect, 46 Sunday, 5th Kurt Cobain Memory Day The party dedicated to the legendary musician and “Nirvana” band leader. B2, 19:30 Cinderella (ballet) MMDM, Theater Hall, 14:00 The Beauty and The Beast (musical) MMDM, 19:00, also 4th , 5th, 7th, 8th , 9th Monte Cristo (musical) The Tiger lillies (punk) Operetta Theater, 19:00, also 4th, 5th, English punk hooligans come to Moscow 7th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th with two new albums. Cicterna Hall, 20:00 robert Hall (concert) Famous Dutch chamber singer. MMDM, Chamber Hall, 19:00 Thursday, 2nd Amcham Briefing with RF Deputy Minis- ter of Health Alexander Safonov. Contact Amcham: (495) 961 2141 Boney M (pop) Luzhniki Sport Complex Tuesday, 7th The Evolution of Consciousness as pictured in the History of Art (lecture by robert Stewart). Chekhov Cultural Center, Strastnoi Bul- var 6. Metro: Chekhovskaya. Tickets 50 r., 19:00 www.ELEMoscow.net Saturday, 4th international Women Club invites Kula Shaker (rock) international Women Club invites Newcomers’ coffee meeting. English multi-platinum selling psychedel- Saturday Coffee Le Pain Quotidien, 10:00 ic rock band who came to prominence These coffee meetings are a great op- during the Britpop era. portunity to meet new friends, relax, and 8th, Wednesday B2 club, 22:00 have lunch together afterwards. Le Pain international Women Club invites Quotidien will provide complimentary Cocktail Hour. coffee for us all, and of course, they also Venue TBA, 19:00 have a fabulous breakfast / lunch menu to tempt you! 9th, Thursday Le Pain Quotidien, 10:00 Nino Katamadze and “insight” band (jazz) ranetki (pop) Georgian female singer well known all New Russian pop-idols who have fans all over Russia and Georgia. over the country. MKhT im Gorkogo, 19:00, also 10th Luzhniki Sport Complex, 19:00 April 2009 5 What’s On in Moscow 10th, Friday 17th, Friday 23rd, Thursday Evenings of russian romances Uri Geller’s Show (performance) Thomas Anders (Singer in former (concert) One of the world’s best known illusion- band “Modern Talking”) Presented by Leonid Serebrennikov. ists. State Kremlin Palace, 19:00 MMDM, Chamber Hall, 19:00 Mir Concert Hall, 19:00 Sinead O’Connor (pop) le Jazz Festival Grammy Award-winning Irish singer- Kora Jazz Trio (African Musicians who songwriter. play American-spirited jazz) B1 Maximum, 21:00 16 tonns, 21:00 Saturday, 11th lord Of The Dance (Celtic National Dance Show) State Kremlin Palace, also 12th, 13th, 18:00 peter pan (figure skating musical) The producers (musical) MTYUZ, 12:00, also 18th Premiere show of a performance based on a 1968 comedy film which tells the Saturday, 18th story of a theatrical producer and an le Jazz Festival (Best traditions of Deep purple (rock) accountant who attempt to cheat their French Jazz) B1 Maximum, 21:00, Also 19th investors by deliberately producing a Stefano Di Battista Quartet presents a flop show on Broadway. new album “Trouble Shooting”, Michael Brainstorm (rock) Et Cetera Theater, 19:00 Portal and Jacky Terrason. Latvian band, very popular among Also 24th, 25th, 26th Mir Concert Hall, 20:00 young Russians. Luzhniki Sport Complex, 19:00 Jay-Jay Johansson (pop) Ken Hensley (rock) Swedish pop-singer who brings back to Ex-Uriah Heep keyboard player. music romance, decadence and synth- CDK MAI, 21:00 sound. Ikra Club, 21:00 Sunday, 12th Apocalyptica (rock) Apocalyptica is a Finnish metal band, made up of classically-trained cellists and a drummer. B1 Maximum, 21:00 Friday, 24th Monday, 20th Easter Charity Ball “Spring Melody,” Bullet For My Valentine (heavy supported by rBCC metal) www.springmelody.ru/ A Welsh melodic metal band. In order to register, please, send your Tommy Emmanuel (guitar) Luzhniki Sport Complex, 19:00 details to [email protected] The true pride of Australia and a Gram- my nominee. Tuesday, 21st Mumij-Troll (pop-rock) MMDM, Svetlanovsky Hall, 19:00 larissa Dolina (pop) Russian rock-band formed in 1981 in А prominent Russian pop and jazz Vladivostok by singer and linguist Ilya 14th, Tuesday singer. Her voice appears in about 70 Lagutenko. Now he is one of the main Golden Mask Festival Russian films and animations. symbols of Russian rock. Operetta Theater, 19:00, also 16th MMDM, Svetlanov Hall, 19:00 B1 Maximum, 21:00 6 April 2009 What’s On in Moscow igor Butman (instrumental) Saturday, 25th Sunday, 26th Russian jazz saxophonist. Former US Toto Cutugno (italian pop) Bring Me The Horizon President Bill Clinton has called Butman State Kremlin Palace, 19:00 English band which plays a style of mu- “my favorite living saxophone player. sic that fuses death metal and metalc- Butman presents his band and Joe ore, known as deathcore. Lovano, (Saxophone, USA). B1 Maximum, 21:00 Thursday, 30th Simply red Pop legend, who needs no introduction. State Kremlin Palace, 19:00 18 April Orthodox Midnight Easter Vigil plaid (concert) The service is held in English (especially A British electronic music duo compris- for the English speaking parishioners) ing Andy Turner and Ed Handley, and and starts at 23:00 based out of London. Church of St. Catherine The Great Martyr Cicterna Hall, 20:00 in-the Fields Bolshaya Ordynka, 60/2 Lynch Brings Harmony to Moscow Lynch first received Oscar nominations as Director and Best Writing, Screenplay for Elephant Man and further Oscar nomi- nations for Director for Blue Velvet and Mulholland Drive. He David Charles Borden also received a Golden Lion award for lifetime achievement at the Venice Film Festival in 2006.
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