MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 www.passportmagazine.ru

Paradigm Shift for doing business in

through russian eyes

one day when women can demand anything

contents. Publisher’s Letter 2 Real Estate wine & dine The bottom Line New international dimension Thomas Koessler 36-37 Foreign Passport holders to ’s leading residential realtor 26 A Very Special 8th of March Recipe should read this! 4 for the Ladies 38 Editor’s Choice 6 Novikov’s latest creation stimulates What’s On in Moscow in February 8-9 palate 39 Moscow Museums and Galleries 10 Kids ‘n’ Culture 11 Venues 11 Cover story

Serviced Apartments grow in number and variety as an alternative to Moscow Hotels 28-29 feature Asian Fusion Match 40-43 Asian Fusion 44 community Toys for Nostalgia 50 One day when women Postcard from Belarus 50 can demand anything 12-15 Mac vs PC (Or Soar with the Eagles) 51 business community listing 52 Leaders & Changes 16 distribution list 53 Paradigm Shift for doing business out & about in Russia 17-19 Forum to highlight Russia-Singapore business ties 20 from the primordial religion of the great art history mother to sacred contemporary the silver age of russian art in the oriental art 30-31 pre-soviet period 21 Fighting Fit 32 travel performing art

Johnnie Walker Black Label Black Ball 54 Dancing the night away 54 CERBA & Russo-british joint meeting 55 IWC Evening of Excellence raises cash for charity 55 the last word istanbul through russian eyes 22-25 80 Years Young 34-35 Eric Kraus 56

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03  .letter from the publisher General Director and Publisher John Ortega, 784-2834 [email protected] Editor-IN-CHIEF John Bonar, 959-2873, 8-916-544-8073 [email protected] Assistant Editor Anna Kulyagina, 959-2271 [email protected] Arts and Entertainment Editor Marina Sinitsyna, 959-2342 [email protected] Wine and Dining Editor Charles Borden [email protected] CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Daniel Klein dklein.mba@.edu n this issue we welcome back our Editor-in-Chief, John Bonar, after his sojourn in hospital Business Writer undergoing major surgery. He has bounced back as enthusiastic as ever and is pressing James Blake [email protected] ahead with our plans to develop Passport Magazine. I Contributors Our cover story this month is on Ladies Day, the fabulous 8th of March, when women can James Alexander, Valeria Cheshko, Anne Coombes, demand anything, and usually get it! Ian Mitchell debuts in Passport Magazine with this topic. Natalia Dementeva, Susan Hetherington, Linda Lippner, Ian Mitchell, Olga Slobodkina, Glenn Walters, James Logan Thomas Koessler is a young Austrian chef who has made his mark on the Marriott Avrora COPY EDITOR Hotel and in this issue he shares with us some of his ideas and motivations and offers a Linda Lippner mouth watering recipe for Ladies Day. Proof Reader We continue to explore the world of Arts and Entertainment and our Editor’s Choice, Stephen Lapeyrouse where Marina Sinitsyna selects the ‘must see’ items from our What’s On in Moscow in March Design is an essential review. Lev Marzeev, 8-926-524-8645 [email protected] The continuing confusion over the registration of foreigners’ stays in Russia is explored Photographers in the Bottom Line and in our Business Section, Andrew Logan charts the changing empha- Liza Azarova sis in foreign investment in Russia. We preview the important Russia-Singapore Business [email protected] Jason Platt Forum which will take place on the 6th of March where Russian business leaders, politi- [email protected] cians and legislators will be exploring how Singapore an expertise and investors can ben- Webmaster efit Russia’s 21st century development. In Real Estate we look at how serviced apartments Alexey Timokhin are filling an accommodation gap in Moscow left by the 5,000 budget-priced hotel rooms [email protected] Advertising & Sales Manager removed from the market under the city’s hotel renewal plan. Atif Qayum, Linda Mills Our travel article takes us to Istanbul, that magical city on the Bosphorous, where Olga Accounting and Legal Services Slobodkina looks at the ancient city through Russian eyes, giving a new perspective to this Vista Foreign Business Support popular destination. Trubnaya Str. 25/1, Moscow, +7 (495) 933 7822 We are now into Lent, the period of pre-Easter fasting and Susan Hetherington reveals how the Anglican Church in Moscow is making this a special period of renewal. Nabi is an Asian Fusion restaurant which you can enjoy, provided you are not seeking a Lenten Menu. Unlike many restaurants who retain their customers with special Lenten Circulation 40,000. Readers 80, 000. Published by OOO Passport Magazine dishes in this season, Nabi stands aloof. All rights reserved This publication is registered by the Press Ministry The Last Word is provided by the outspoken and enthusiastic Russophile, Eric Kraus of No. 77-18639. 08.10.04 the Nikitsky Fund. Editorial Address: Ozerkovskaya Embankment, 50 Bldg. 1 Office 515. 5th floor On that note we leave you to prepare for Spring. 115054 Moscow, Russia Tel: +7 (495) 959-2332, Tel: +7 (495) 959-2875 Tel: +7 (495) 959-2271, Tel: +7 (495) 959-2873 John Ortega Fax: +7 (495) 221-2677 www.passportmagazine.ru Owner and Publisher

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03  Бумага “Балет”. прекрасное исполнение

PEOPLE MAKE THE DIFFERENCE

IP_AdA4_Russian.indd 1 10-08-2005 14:52:03 .the bottom line yacheslav Postavnin, Deputy Head of the Federal Migration Service, was Vthe featured speaker at an AmCham briefing on Feb. 8. He spoke to a capacity audience of 250 members about the recent changes in the Russian Federation's migra- tion law. Passport was there to glean the lat- est on the registration process which has led to widespread confusion in its application. The 250 nervous and confused ex-pats and (who work for companies em- ploying ex-pats) gathered to hear about the new rules that were enacted in mid-January relating to city registration of visas. During So- viet times in order to monitor, control and dis- courage free movement, a system of registra- tion was established whereby Soviet citizens were required to register if they moved to a Foreign Passport holders new location. Russian’s still had to do that up until last year. The rule that was abolished last should read this! year meant that Russians traveling from, say, Tver or St Petersburg to Moscow could stay up Mr Postavnin know at the AmCham event. main differences is that according to the to three business days and if they stayed lon- The event was quite timely as it was held prior practice it seems that the immigration ger they had to register with local authorities on a sort of emergency short notice basis, card and city registration stamps were only a document confirming they were staying in a mere one week after the enactment of relevant if one was “carded” on the street; someone’s apartment (it had to be in a land- some of the new regulations. As the new whereas the airport was only concerned if lord’s apartment not in a tenant’s apartment), rules were hardly understandable to anyone, the exiting passport holder had a valid non- or in a hotel. According to the revised law all those who tried to leave the country or expired visa and a valid entry stamp; even of last year that period is now three months comply with the new system were very frus- to the extent that the airport officials would for Russians, but still remains three working trated. This frustration was loudly vented at not be bothered if there was an absence of days for foreigners. So a Russian could come the meeting and Mr Postavnin and even Mr an immigration card. It seems that accord- to Moscow from another city for two months Somers were being attacked and criticized ing to most local legal experts, that exiting and 29 days, take a one day trip to a city 100 from all sides. The official was not the drafter foreigners were not checked to see if they kilometers from Moscow by train and return, of the new rules but was receiving the brunt were properly registered in the various cit- and then would reset the clock for another 3 of all complaints. He offered anyone to send ies that they traveled as of the date of entry months. Some claim that the easing of the re- a fax to his office with specific questions and into Russia. According to the new system striction for Russians is one reason that there complaints and that his office would try to however, it appears that the computer will has been a noticeable increase in the number address them. One attendee which did not show the exiting passport checker if the for- of Moscow inhabitants. The latest traffic swells attack either the Minister or Mr Somers went eigner had a good and clean chain of title are testimony of this new rule. so far as to spend over five minutes to thank (ie didn’t have any “city registration gaps” The new legislation basically regulates and recognize the courage of Mr Postavnin during their Russian sojourn). foreigners in Russia, their entry, their exit, for being brave enough to answer hard All Passport Magazine readers and for- and their right to work here. questions and respond to harsh criticism of eign passport holders are hereby advised to While the three day rule still applies to the new regime. pay close attention to the new rules, keep a foreigners, some would argue that foreign- A transcript of the meeting is available from watch on the local press, and ask their legal ers now have a more simplified procedure the chamber’s web site www.amcham.ru. advisers about any upcoming changes; and, to register upon arrival. According to the At the end of the day it appears that even most of all, do not allow any registration old system, when you arrived in a city you if in the short term the procedure is not clear gaps as this may result in fines or administra- would have to submit your original pass- to all administrative personnel, that once tive violations. port through the “inviting agency” along all the dust settles foreigners will no longer For visitors ‘on the move’ Timur Beslan- with some forms filled out by the landlord’s have to submit their original passport for gurov, the managing partner of Vista For- local counsel housing authority affirming two weeks. It now seems that certain pa- eign Business Support and an immigration that the landlord paid their water bill. Two perwork will suffice and a new “card” will be lawyer, points out that the new rules require weeks would often pass and the passport provided that has to be returned to the issu- your registration only if you are in a city for would have a few more stamps indicating ing immigration authority when leaving the more than three working days. If you stay that the foreigner was now registered in city or the country. It is advisable however to on the move visiting Moscow and St Peters- that city. That was rather troublesome, es- keep at least a copy of this card. The bottom burg and even another provincial city, never pecially for those who traveled frequently. line is that the system has now shifted from spend more than three working days in each Now, according to the new so called “simpli- a paper and stamping system to a national then you don’t have to register at all! fied rules”, this registration is possible in the database which will track everyone’s move- VFBS has prepared an intelligent and post office or at a local immigration office. ments. Although it seems more Orwellian, helpful practical interpretation of the new The new regulations are not shy of teething it really should make everyone’s life a lot legislation and how it is applied. This is avail- pains as frustrated meeting participants let simpler in the long term. One of the other able on their website at www.vfbs.ru.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03  DESIGN CORPORATE IDENTITY Graphic arts EXPOSITION PHOTOgraphy internet TEL.8.903.243.1318 .editor's choice Mariinsky in the Bolshoi And again one great theatre is greeting another great theatre. This time Mariinsky Theatre presents the works produced specifically for it by three young choreographers – Le Bourgeois gentilhomme, staged by Nikita Dmitriyevsky to the music by Richard Srauss; Du cote de chez Swan with music by Leonid De- syatnikov and by Aleksey Miroshnichenko; and Noah Gelbers's staging of Overcoat to the music by Dmitry Shostakovich. For the first time these appeared during the 6th Interna- tional Festival and were part of the program "New Names". They continue the tradition of inviting young contemporary choreographers, which, established by the theatre several years ago, allowed it to undergo major repertoir transformation and led to a considerable change of image.

Photo by Natasha Razina New Stage of the Bolshoi, March 4 and 5, 19:00 Collection Festival Maestro of Russian jazz, Daniel Kramer, has prepared something that can hardly fit into the definition of a "jazz festival". With jazz as a guiding thread, Kramer will lead his audience through other forms of contemporary art, such as , classical ballet, DJ music and even fashion. The festival will be opened by Anatoly Kroll's orchestra, one of Russia's most touring jazz bands. A true treat will be the musician that will appear next – Florin Niculescu. This French jazz violinist, mixing jazz with gypsy stylistics and tunes, has created a unique style of his own and earned the fame of one of the most romantic European jazz musicians. Dessert of the day has been taken care of by Anna Plisetskaya who produced "The City Through the Eyes of Jazz", with jazz compositions and classical ballet being the main components. During the second day of the festival Cannon Dance from St Petersburg will present their version of the dialogue of jazz and dance, this time , while Vladimir Chekasin, whose works are marked by their unpredictability and spontaneous contact with the audi- ence, will open the second part of the concert with the play Chekasin Jazz. Another event not to be missed is a of the designers from Vyacheslav Zaitsev Moscow Couturier Laboratory. Tchaikovsky Concert Hall , March 23 and 24, 19:00 Night Streets of Biennale If you have always believed that cello is solely for playing classical music, Denis Shapovalov will show the hidden talents of this instrument. He makes it change its voice from the gentle classical sound in some parts to the harsher, rock-like one, in the others. Playing together with the electric guitar, , and synthesizer, Denis Shapovalov's cello demonstrates the full range of its ca- pabilities. The program consists of 15 pieces with each one of them exploring the soul of the city at night as well as the soul of the person wandering around its streets. Presented as chapters of a single story, they talk of the starry sky, of doors being opened and closed, of the winter dream and of the lonely human voice sounding against the noise of the big city. Moscow International Performing Arts Centre, March 17, 19:00 by MARINA SINITSYNA (UK) Darren "Decoder" Beale wrote music for various punk groups in his early years; later on, having met Geoff Barrow, future founder of Portishead, he left his guitar and turned to his new love – electronic music. Together with Markee "Substance" Morrison, he started playing . By the time Sian Evans met the two, she had sung in a number of Welsh bands as a guest vocalist, had a child, and lived in a tepee where for the first time she started writing songs of her own. Having started working together, the three combined their love for rock, jazz, drum and bass and folk to create the extremely melodical songs coming from the heart that won over the audience first in the UK and then in a num- ber of other countries where they toured widely, breaking the stereotype that their kind of music is never played live. Their songs are full of sincerity and freshness, be that the first Resist, full of drum-and-bass beats, or the second one, Kokopelli, which is darker-toned, yet equally compelling. Apelsin Club, March 17, 20:00 Tap Dogs With a number of awards behind their backs and metal platforms underneath their feet, these six restless Australian guys tap 75 minutes away, sharing their energy and the great time they

are having on the stage with the audience. The creater of the show, Dein Perry, took classes at e atr

the dance school but at the age of 17 saw no future in the dance career and thus joined a "nor- e h

mal' job, just like the rest of his buddies. Nevertheless, six years later he came to Sidney to try i T

his luck in the show business and was cast for the long-running Sidney production 42nd Street. ho ls Once the production was closed, Perry decided to contact his old tap friends which resulted in o , B the creation of "Tap Brothers". Later on "Tap Brothers" transformed into Tap Dogs and started pov touring the world in 1998. Having gained world fame, in 2000 they were invited to perform Yusu

together with Kylie Minogue at the opening ceremony of the . Talking r i

about the life of friends, the dancers never stop the constant beat and it's a feast for the eyes am as well as for the ears. D by Operetta Theatre, March 8 through 11, 19:00 hoto PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 P  .editor's choice PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03  what's on in moscow in march. Theatre Musical S 3 M 2 4and March on Also Nikitskaya on Helikon Conservatory the of Hall Great New S New Theatre Ballet Kremlin Also on March 5 March on Also Swan chez gentilhomme Bourgeois Balle Hall Concert Tchaikovsky Houbart Franck, Widor, Vierne, Marchand, Bach, performing Madeleine) la E , (organist, Houbart Francois-Henri Classi Conservatory the of Hall Great orchestra and orchestra and Poulenc Prokofiev, performing S S Tchaikovsky (), US (piano, Korsantia Alexander (piano), Vartanyan Vazgen (piano), Gavrilov Andrey Classi 4 16 Tons iMedvedi Masha Ro Band’ R’ Mozart Op Hall Concert Tchaikovsky E Classi ( Beethoven forming per (violin) Kogan Dmitry (paino), Petrov Nikolay Classi Mozart Op TsDKh Kovcheg and Arefyeva Olga Ro 16 Tons S Du 3 March on Also S Yamato D S S Ro 3 March on Also Pugni performing Theatre Mariinsky Balle 2 M A ( Puressence Ro Tchaikovsky Balle US (trumpet, Ponomaryov Valery US (vocal, Gardner Hilary (conductor), Vlcek E Chamber Virtuosi Prague Classi 1 A New S New Hall Concert Tchaikovsky I I Andrey (saxophone), vanov (piano) vanov Spring liso Virsaladze (piano) performing L performing (piano) Virsaladze liso tanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Nemirovich-Danchenko and tanislavsky Palace Kremlin tate kream ( kream corpions (Germany) corpions ymphony Orchestra, Denis L Denis Orchestra, ymphony r Club pelsin Club pelsin n

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v t nn nn taly), Dmitry I pelsin Club rts Centre tate Kremlin Ballet vetlanov Russian S arasate, Venyavsky, L hostakovich tate Kremlin Palace tate Kremlin Palace I 31 M S S performing Tchaikovsky Bie Panopticon, the all-seeing place Moscow I Performing A Classi S phony Orchestra in a concert dedicated toMark Gorenshtein’s 60th anniversary Great Hall of the Conservatory Blues Dave Hole (Australia) and Dave Hole Band Moscow I Performing A Hea Grave Digger (Germany) A 29 Classi Russian Orchestra,Aleksandr Vedernikov (conductor),Ricarda Merbeth(soprano, Germany)performing Songs for voice and piano hen, Ruhe, Meine Seele, Morgen, Ein Heldenleben Great Hall of the Conservatory Gui Pablo S ( Tatarkin, Yevgeny Finkelshtein, 4-tissimo Guitar Quartet (Germany) performing Regondi, Jimenez, S Biktashev, Koshkin, Assad, Dyens, Monk Tchaikovsky Concert Hall Balle Glinka-Agafonnikov Balle S Also on March 30 30 Classi S Anatoly L Korndorf Great Hall of the Conservatory Classi Nikolai Petrov (piano), Aleksandr Gindin (piano) performing Brahms, S fiev, Prokofiev-Pletnyov Tchaikovsky Concert Hall Classi Bie Theater der Klaenge (Germany) performing Mechanical Ballet Moscow I A New S S ,

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a al r t t r ck c e o rts Centre tate S vetlanov Russian S tate Kremlin Palace tanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Musi ampe Moscow I A Krivokapic (Montenegro), Dmitry I Great Hall of the Conservatory Pablo S simo Guitar Quartet (Germany), Novaya Rossiya S Nocturnos de Andalucia Concerto grosso Balle Minkus 28 Classi Russian S Polyansky (conductor) performing Verdi Gui AlekseyFlavioZimakov, NovayaRossiya Rossiya BushkovperformingYevgeny Giuliani guitar and orchestra Concierto madrigal Balle Kremlin Ballet Theatre performing Tchaikovksy Nutcracker Kremlin Ballet Palace Balle Kremlin Ballet Theatre performing Bizet-Drigo Esmeralda S Vo The S W African Music Club on Brestskaya Ro Pavel Kashin TsDKh Op L Also on March 25 25 Org Aleksandr Fiseisky (organ) performing Franck, Vierne, Messiaen, Widor Tchaikovsky Concert Hall 26 Classi S Orchestra, Mark Gorenshtein (conductor), Nataliya Gutman (cello), Borodin Quartet Great Hall of the Conservatory Gui Balle Melikov Tchaikovsky Concert Hall S Helikon on A 24 M cal Theatre Tchaikovsky Concert Hall New S , - , - - - - 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 22:00 Peri Suite eonid Eclipse for Passacaille lobodkin Carnival Suite ymphony ymphony Orches Concertos for piano eonid Nikolayev , Gerard Grisey , Yan Maresz ymphony Choir, Valery c , Theodorakis for two flutesand orchestra , Philippe Manoury

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r r k ctr nn nn b c e e ), Alicia), S ow rts Centre rts Centre pelsin Club rts Centre pelsin Club t Patrick’s Day travinsky ons (Moscow-Germany), Dona-Dona tanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Musi tate Kremlin Palace tanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Musi tanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Musi le oefah & MC S Also on March 1 S Balle Tchaikovsky Mascagni performed by Novaya Opera soloists, choir and orchestra, E Moscow I A Classi Classi Aleksey L 18 Club on Brestskaya Bie Dmitry S Cele S Moscow I A Kosheen ( E Op Donizetti Puccini Ponchielli. Op Polyansky (conductor) performing Rossini, Donizetti, Bellini, Verdi, Mascagni, L Vo Russian S men-Suite New S Balle S 17 Du L (Kharkov-Germany), Nayehovichi, Berl, S S Club on Brestskaya Festival of Jewish music. David Krakauer (clarinet, US Kahn (vocal, accordion, US Fire of Anatolia () S Klez A Sh (vocal, US Fol Wishbone Ash ( Tchaikovsky Balle Balle Adam Giselle New S 16 Dmitry Kurlyandsky; multimedia by Olga Kumereg. Moscow I A by Yury Kasparov, Kirill U Bie Moscow, film by Mikhail Kaufman and I Moscow E Jazz Miss 15 forming Mozart, S Great Hall of the Conservatory S S Also on March 1 Helikon on A cal Theatre cal Theatre cal Theatre A 16 Tons16 16 Tons16 1 PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 0 moscow museums & galleries. Moscow, May1throughJune30 Portraits inVOOMTechnology Robert Wilson March 3throughApril1 tecture Schusev tateMuseumofArchi Drink MyOcean Pipilotti Rist March 4throughApril1 (Zurab Gallery) Moscow MuseumofModernArt Luca P May 1throughJuly Moscow Odyssey ofaCockroach Yoko Ono March 3throughApril1 tecture Schusev tateMuseumofArchi WallJeff Art, March3throughApril1 Vinzavod CentreofContemporary If HadYou D March 3throughApril1 State Tretyakov Gallery(New) People's Choice and AlexanderMel Vital March 4through8 State CentreofContemporaryArt V SPECIAL GUEST March 2throughApril1 Federation Tower History inPresentTense Iara Boubnova March 2throughApril1 Federation Tower After All R March 2throughApril1 Federation Tower Nicol March 2throughApril1 Federation Tower and Amnesia Footnotes onGeopolitics,Market, Joseph Backstein March 2throughApril1 TsUM ShoppingCentre Beginning ofthe3rdMillennium USA: AmericanVideoArtatthe Kvaran, HansUlrichObrist D Main project alie Export o arren Almond aniel Birnbaum,GunnarB. 2 s a y Komar M as Bourrid D N ancrazzi 1: art i n e z s o M

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Erd e c - - mc w o i line State Mirror Gl Katoptron (Directionofth February 28throughApril1 M'ARS CentreofContemporaryArt, Curator: AntonioGeusa Project Manager: Natalia Kosolapova Art Digital 2006:TheBordr SPECIAL PROJCT February 28throughApril1 Former LeninMuseum B Art, ThroughApril1 Vinzavod CentreofContemporary Curator: OlegKulik I Believe February 28throughApril17 porary HistoryofRussia State CentralMuseumofContem Settlements Alexander Brodsky March 1through6 Theatre Central HouseofWriters Movie Curator: NancySpector Matthew BarnyinMoscow Through April11 Central HouseofArtists, The DiaryofanArtist February 28throughMarch27 Era Fund Exhibition Yury Albert March 6throughApril1 RGGU MuseumCentre Curator: Yulia Lebedeva 54 Winters Nikita Alexeyv March 1throughApril Petrovka) Moscow CentreofModernArt(on Project Manager:EvgenyUmansky 9000 km March 15 Respublika ShoppingCentre Curators: SergeiKhachaturov Aziopa March 1throughApril Petrovka) Moscow MuseumofModernArt(on Georgina Jackson Curator: DianaBaldon,NicolaLees, Left Pop March 6throughApril1 RGGU MuseumCentre Curator: NataliaKamenetskaya y Interaction b ance) e i N N o e l a - - tain andSeesaRoundBoxonthe Curators: StashuripaandRene Matter &Memory March 1throughApril Vkhutemas Gallery, BornHouse March 1throughApril Curator: Teresa Mavica Table (Geopoetics-5) Here ComesHometheSwissCap Yury Leiderman March 23 State CentreofContemporaryArt, Multitude Artists asaPartofanAttacking Olga Kisseleva February 28throughMarch7 Cinefantom Club A C His March 6through25 chistenka) Zurab Tsereteli Gallery(onPre Curator: DariaKamishnikova Beijing. 1959. V through April1 Yekaterina CultureFund Curator: Alexandra Kharitonova Semnikhs Idea: Ekat erina andVl Movemnt, EvolutionandArt March 1throughApril2 Moscow River Secret Fairway Alexander Ponomarv February 22throughApril8 Manezh Curator: ElenaGeuna Pierre tGilles March 1throughApril Petrovka) Moscow MuseumofModernArt(on Curator: ElenaSorokina Petroliana March 4throughApril3 Fabrika Project Curator: ElenaZaitseva Burning Poems P March 3throughApril1 Vinzavod Centre of Contemporary Art Curator: LolitaJablonskiene Expiration ofPl Monuments ofOurDiscont: March 3throughApril1 Vinzavod Centre of Contemporary Art Padt ang Guofeng am Skel nna urators tory Z f aitseva

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t t t eatralnaya a AR AR AR AR AR t eatralnaya Pl e e e a-Balle a-Tale a T Mayakovskaya Leninsky Prospekt Akademicheskaya Arbatskaya Krasnye Vorota 1905 Goda 1905 m el.: 250-7317 el.: 209-9909 el.: 718-1600 el.: 648-6777 el.: 290-0956 el.: 253-5300 el.: 917-5492 a er er er pp pp pp T T T T T T T Bolshoi Theater 1 T B2 Club 8 Bolshaya Sadovaya B1 MaximumB1 Ul. Ordzhonikidze11 Apelsin Club Ul. Shvernika,11 Bldg. 1 4 Ul. Spiridonovka Amadei Moscow Musical Theatre 35MM Ul. Pokrovka47/24 16 Tons Tons 16 6 Presnensky Val, Bldg. 1 Venues r ats Children’s Musical Theatre Musical Children’s ats ats Children’s Musical Musical Children’s ats ats Children’s Musical Musical Children’s ats ats Children’s Musical Theatre Musical Children’s ats ats Children’s Musical Theatre Musical Children’s ats D Chief Redskin The S Tchaikovsky 7 M 7 Balle Also on March 18 March on Also Moscow Children’s Puppet Puppet Children’s Moscow Theatre Pu Friends His and Hare Little Op Thumbelina Podheiz S Theatre 4 M 4 Theatre (Balashikha) Theatre Club B2 Pu Ostrich Little Also on March 18 March on Also Gosling Puppet Children’s Moscow Theatre Also on March 25 March on Also Pu Op Queen Snow The S Theatre Tchaikovsky 2 M 2 Op S 9 M 9 S 3 M 3 .cover story cover story. n Britain, many women and quite a few do-gooders, and even some men know Clearly, though the day is supposed Queen was eternally faithful to her Ithat March 8 is International Women’s to be international, responses to it are husband’s chaste memory. Day. In Russia, by contrast, despite the not. So how did this controversial event Any such lapse of decorum would have almost complete absence of do-gooders, originate? been a grievous sin in the eyes of most absolutely everybody knows about this The idea of drawing attention to the Victorians, but no information ever reached feast of love for the fair sex. Is this because it position of women in society by having their eyes or ears. Discretion was the order is a public holiday, or could it be because, as an annual holiday for them was first of the day. Image was important, and there one Moscow cynic put it to me recently, it is proposed in the , when the is no doubt that most Victorian women the only day in the year when Russian men Socialist Party of America declared 28 thought that the Queen was as demure and do the dishes? February a national holiday in honour of docile as the Royal publicity machine made “Your husband doesn’t help you in the women in 1909. her out to be and which was just coming kitchen?” I asked an elegant young banker This was part of the wider change into its own in those years. recently. She was the sort of person who, which was radicalizing Western society The first woman to rebel against this in Britain, would have an “other half” who in the late-Victorian and Edwardian regime and make a national name for herself would be full of the outward virtues of period, when the civil rights of white was Florence Nightingale, who went out suburban living, such as waste recycling, women were, like those of children and to Scutari to help nurse wounded soldiers envelope re-using and the “celebration” of the white working class, asserted for the from the Crimea during the Anglo-French women. first time as a group. It is necessary to invasion of southern Russia in 1854. To “Yes, my husband helps me in the stress that it was among white people her father’s fury, Miss Nightingale became kitchen,” the banker replied, half suppressing that these rights were claimed, because a model for female devotion to career a wry smile. “With eating.” blacks and other racial groups had rather than to husband. She never married “Is Women’s Day any different?” I asked. relatively few champions. and perhaps in consequence, developed “Yes. It is a day when you can demand Part of the reason for this change in a neurotic, self-absorbed nature. Lytton anything,” she replied. Then, smiling attitude was widespread rejection of Strachey wrote, in his famously iconoclastic quietly, she said half-playfully and half- the Victorian stereotype of the dutiful book, Eminent Victorians (published in 1918) indignantly, “I’ve just remembered that I woman who deferred in all things to that the Lady with the Lamp was “a martyr have not received the promised gift from her husband’s wishes and followed to masturbation.” Surviving portraits show last Women’s Day.” Queen Victoria’s advice in another area her as a sour-faced harridan who looked “What was it going to be?” I asked. of domestic life to “lie back and think about ready for one of the three or four “Underwear made from natural of England.” Actually, the diminutive nervous breakdowns which she suffered materials.” Queen was highly unlikely to have said while trying to make the world a better The more conventional gift is flowers, any such thing, as it seems, from recent which men give to their wives, aunts, research, that she and Albert enjoyed a mothers and even mothers-in-law. very uninhibited sex life. Anyone who “Why flowers?” I asked a Russian man saw the film "John Brown", starring Billy gearing up for his annual close encounter Connolly, will also know that there are with the Fairy Liquid. questions about whether the widowed “I like flowers,” he replied, “and I like women.” By contrast, a female friend in Glasgow gave me a different insight: “Basically, your average Scottish woman invented liberation two hundred years ago, but kept quiet about it in the interests of survival.” In countries which do not celebrate International Women’s Day as a public holiday (the IWD as it is known to the campaigning cognoscenti); the media focus tends to be more on public demonstrations of attitude. Thus in Glasgow the main news story last year was of a protest “in honour of IWD”. The target of the demonstration was the Chief Executive Officer of the Gap clothing empire who, the site claimed, is worth $11.5 billion, while the female workers in “his Russian sweatshops” are paid only 11 cents an hour. “That type of sanctimonious twaddle makes my teeth hurt,” my friend said. “What’s that got to do with male attitudes in Glasgow? Most men I know probably think IWD is a contraceptive device.” when women can demand anything PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 12 .cover story cover story.

By Ian Mitchell One day when women can demand anything Photo by Jason Platt PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 13 .cover story cover story. problems of women. Aleksandra Kollontai, the well-known advocate of “free love”, was put in charge of a new governmental organisation for women. It embraced feminism and worked for causes like Women’s Day until Stalin abolished the agency in 1930. In 1920, Kollontai published an article about Women’s Day in which she wrote; “This day was to be a day of international solidarity in the fight for common objectives and a day for reviewing the organised strength of working women under the banner of socialism… Away with inequality, lack of rights and the oppression of women - the legacy of the bourgeois world!” The following year Lenin gave his imprimatur to the concept. In an article in Pravda on 8 March 1921, he wrote, “The essence of Bolshevism and Soviet power is to expose the falsehood and mummery of bourgeois democracy… But you cannot draw the masses into politics without drawing in the women as well. Under the female half of the human race is doubly oppressed. The working woman and the peasant woman are oppressed by capital… And they remain in household bondage. They continue to be household slaves, for they are overburdened with the drudgery of the most squalid, backbreaking and stultifying toil in the kitchen and family household.” It was engineering and the consumer society which liberated women from domestic drudgery, not socialism or gender- blind worker and peasant solidarity. Despite this, there is no doubt that International Women’s Day is associated with the social advances which were made in the early years of . It was significant that Market flowers stalls enjoy a boom on march. Russian stock in the first year of its independence from the place at the expense of her own happiness. bringing thousands of women out on to the , Estonia abolished Women’s By the early 1900's this drive for female street, where they were joined by workers Day. Armenia did the same. autonomy had given rise to the suffragette from the famous Putilov (subsequently However, many of the formerly Soviet movement which campaigned for votes for Kirov) works, one of the largest industrial republics still celebrate Women’s Day, women in Britain and more general rights undertakings in the city. including , where all women for women across . Following their Amidst the women marching for were supposed to receive presents from sisters in America, a group of women in International Women’s Day under slogans the Turkmenbashi, President Saparmurat Copenhagen campaigned for the formal like “Bread for our Children” and “The Return Niyazov. It will be interesting to see what establishment of an International Women’s of Our Husbands from the Trenches”, there happens this year, on the first celebration Day, which was first celebrated in Germany appeared the first openly revolutionary after his death. and Austria on 8 March 1911. The movement banners. Most historians date the effective Women’s Day in Russia is, of course, quickly gained support in other countries, onset of the February revolution from this a very serious celebration. It has wholly including Russia, where the 8th of March march, and certainly from this day. That is lost its socialist overtones, and now is just was still in February as the calendar had not one of the reasons why Women’ Day came an exercise in human communication. yet been reformed. to be so seriously celebrated in the Soviet Occasionally it gets rather cheesy, like the It was on Women’s Day, 23 February 1917, Union. international kissing competition in Perm that the first of the great marches which Given the conditions in Russia at the last year. But generally it is just plain nice. brought on the Russian Revolution took time, the appeal is not hard to understand. Perhaps it is the charming aspect of place in Petrograd, as St Petersburg was then The appeal was understood by the Soviet this holiday which moved an American known. The city authorities had announced regime which, at least to begin with, had journalist in Moscow to write, a few years that bread would be rationed from 1 March, a genuinely open attitude towards the ago: “Thank God there is no Women's Day

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 14 .cover story cover story.

Even afer a great grueling race from Murmansk to Vladivostok these participants in the Expedition Trophy 2006 Race find flowers on Murch 8. us just as they do with our male comrades. They imprison us for striking the same as the men, and, both we and the men have to fight . But women have only recently joined the workers' family, they are often still fearful; they do not know what to demand or how to demand it. Their ignorance and timidity has always been used and still is used by the bosses. On this day, comrades, let us think in particular about how we can defeat our enemies, the capitalists, as quickly as possible. Let us remember those near and dear to us at the front, let us remember the hard struggle through which they wrested every extra ruble of pay, every extra hour of rest, from the capitalists, and every freedom from the government. How many of them were sent to the front, to prison or into exile for their bold struggle! Russian stock You have replaced them in the rear – in the holiday in America. I can imagine the layers March was just the day for compliments. factories and plants – and your duty is to of irony and suppressed desperation that For men, words do not cost much, they continue their great cause. This cause is the such a holiday would bring out. The whole drop out of your mouths and are forgotten, liberation of all humanity from oppression inter-gender sickness would gurgle out of but we, stupid women, remember and and slavery. This terrible war is already the social sewer grill every year on cue: ‘Oh, appreciate them and believe that we are in its third year. Our fathers, husbands I'm sooooo happy you're celebrating me.’ SPECIAL!!! None of us can survive without and brothers are dying. Our nearest and ‘This holiday is so sexist, you know? No, just sweet compliments; we need them more dearest return home in a wretched state, as kidding! I'm not into that whole PC thing?’ that food. I do not know what's happening cripples. The Tsar's government sends them But why do I torture us both, readers, with now in Russia, many good things have gone to the front, gets them injured and killed, horrible reminders of the repression? We're from there, but I do believe that the 8th of and does not trouble itself about feeding not in America.” March will never disappear from our life.” them. Our children are going hungry. How My favourite comment on 8 March many of them are now abandoned or have comes from a Russian friend of mine in HOW WOULD YOU REPSOND TO THIS lost their parents? They are running wild, Edinburgh. I think she catches the spirit I APPEAL? and many of them are becoming hooligans. most associate with the Russian approach On 23 February (8 March by the modern Many girls, still children, have been driven to this sort of thing. calendar) 1917 the Petrograd Committee by hunger onto the streets. How many “The 8th of March! I really miss it as a of the Russian Social-Democratic Workers children stand at machines, doing back- person who misses love. It used to be a day Party issued a leaflet which said: breaking work until late evening? Misery when all of us were just adored! Every Proletarians of All Countries Unite! and tears are everywhere…. It is the woman was wrapped with love, admiration Comrade working women! For ten years government's fault that you are starving. and rapture; everyone was special! The 8th now women of all countries have been It is the capitalists which are at fault; the of March used to mean bunches of mimosa marking 23 February (8 March) as the day war is being fought for their profits. And it and champagne and loads and loads of of working women, as the women’s “May is high time we told them: enough! Down wonderful compliments!!! You know men Day”… It is already a long time since hunger with the criminal government and its whole love with their eyes, they love the looks drove women into the factories and for a gang of robbers and murderers! Long live and appearances; but women love with long time now women, just like men, have peace! Down with the autocracy! Long their ears, they love what they hear. Oh, been working all day at their machines. The live the Revolution! Long live a Provisional yes, we love sweet words! And the 8th of factory bosses squeeze the sweat out of Revolutionary Government!

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 15 .business business. Kenneth McLaren was appointed executive Vice-president of the Moscow branch of Interstate Ho- tels & Resorts. In his position Kenneth will oversee the international operations with Interstate. He came to Russia in 2003 as a General Manager of the Marriott Grand Hotel. In 2005 he was named a manager of the year in the position of Marriott Fran- chise General Manager. Interstate Hotels & Resorts, the U.S. largest independent hotel management company, recently expand- ed its portfolio. Now the company has four properties under its management in Mos- cow and six hotels under management agreement in Europe. The Moscow branch was reinforced with people who helped to achieve outstanding results for Moscow managed hotels by Interstate. David Gilmartin has been appointed Director of DOKI Leas- ing Department. Having worked for several years in Spain and Saudi Arabia, David even- tually came to Russia. During the 1990's he worked in The sales departments of Coca- Cola and Cadbury-Dirol. Before joining DOKI David was General Manager for Inter- mark where he headed the residential leas- ing department. David graduated from Dubai University in 1990 with a B.A. in International Marketing and Languages. Gethin Jones has been appointed Business Development Kenneth McLaren Manager in DOKI Leasing Department and will work to develop the company’s range of real estate services for its corporate cli- ents. Gathin graduated from the University Leaders of London’s School of Slavonic and East Eu- ropean Studies with Russia and Soviet Stud- ies in 1993, and his career has been closely involved with Russia ever since. He has been operating in real estate in Russia since 2005, & Changes most recently with Intermark Real Estate Constantine Goriainov Irina Kulagina agency. was appointed Area Director of Sales and was appointed Vice-president Sales and Constantine Demetriou Marketing of three Marriott hotels – Marri- Marketing of the Moscow branch of Inter- has been appointed National Director at ott Grand, Marriott Royal Aurora and Mar- state Hotels LLC. Her new responsibilities are Head of Capital Market of Jones Lang LaSal- riott Tverskaya. In his new role, Constantine the overseeing of the sales and marketing le, Russia and CIS. He will be responsible for is responsible for long- and short- term hos- process of the Moscow-managed hotels and the Capital team on the real estate industry pitality market forecast, development and new business development. of Russia and CIS to be the leading financial implementation of sales strategy for cor- She started her career in the company in1997 services provider. porate, government and travel segments as a director of sales in the four-star Tverskaya Constantine was involved in executed in- of the market, and sales marketing team di- Hotel. In the end of 2004 Irina was appointed vestment deals and in advisory deals spread rection. His primary goal is to keep Moscow Area Director of Sales and Marketing. across Europe, North and Latin America. He Marriotts' leading position on the market Mikhail Radionov has over 10 years financial experience in against growing competition. was appointed to the position of Vice-presi- EBRD, Lehman Brothers, JPMorgan Chase, His professional career with Marriott started dent – Director of Projects for the Moscow IFC and Accenture. in 1998 when he became a member of the branch. Mikhail will take care of capital proj- He has an MBA form Cornell University in opening team for the Marriotts Royal Auro- ects process and assist during renovation New York, a Master’s Degree in Internation- ra in the position of a senior sales manager. and construction of new hotels. He joined al Relations form University of Cambridge, In 2002 Constantine was promoted to the Interstate Hotels LLC in 1998. In 2003 he was graduated form Moscow State University position of Director of Corporate Sales for appointed an Area Director of Purchasing and University of Bath in Great Britain. the Moscow cluster. and held it until recently.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 16 .business business.

Paradigm Shift for doing business

By James Logan

in Russia Nescafe Rossiya

he Russian financial crisis of 1998 was the market and are now here in force. Even The Russians returned several hours later a watershed moment that marked a the investment bankers who fled in 1998 are with a new truck that they had purchased Tshift to domestic production in Rus- coming back to compete with those who with a second cash-filled suitcase. This was sia. Prior to that and during Russia’s early stuck it out such as Renaissance Capital and the frenetic free-for-all for imports that post-Soviet period, imports completely Troika-Dialog. characterized the Yeltsin years. dominated the market and there was no In the Soviet period, particularly the Times have changed in the past 15 years economic incentive for domestic produc- Brezhnev years, Russia was nothing less and the name of the game has changed tion of consumer goods. Charter flights from than a big prison with inferior products and from import to local manufacturing, driven Turkey were filled to the brim with Russian services far from Western standards. After by market factors, logistics infrastructure chelnoki: market traders who bought cheap the breakup of the USSR, shuttle traders improvements, and customs systemization. in Istanbul to sell in open markets in Russia. were quick to try and serve the needs of In the early 90’s there were few if any More than a few fortunes were made from the starved ex-inmates of that prison with consumer products being manufactured these flights. any and all modern products that had been in Russia. What was locally manufactured When the major bank default came in absent from the economy. Everything from was based upon archaic technology and August 1998, this time the flights out of kitchen appliances to computers and food- products were of questionable quality as Russia were filled with departing Western stuffs were snatched off the shelves and out compared with Western counterparts. One executives. The ruble crashed and sud- of the kiosks. of the staples of communism was that the denly only local goods were available and With newly relaxed rules for importing, government manufactured the products it import prices skyrocketed. Prior to August the name of the game back then was to wanted (and when and where it wanted) 1998, a bottle of flat, warm Russian beer bring in anything to Russia to fill the vacuum and since all products were in short sup- cost 6 rubles and an imported Heineken and become an overnight millionaire. There ply without competition, this quasi-mo- cost 8 rubles. After the crisis, the Russian is a story of a pair of Russian businessmen nopoly meant that the quality and choice beer was about 8 rubles and the Heineken who visited a Finnish chocolate distributor of products was not a factor. A winemaker 28 rubles. Finally domestic producers had a with a suitcase of dollars to buy for the Rus- from Anapa commented in 1995, “If any- chance. During the eight years since, Rus- sian market. They asked the distributor to one should be so lucky to get my wines, sian producers have made investments in arrange the transport of the chocolate bars how could they complain.” Another Russian local production and in the past few years, to Russia, but were told that the Finnish dis- commented that her mother waxed nostal- foreign manufacturers have come back into tributor was not in the logistics business. gic for Soviet times: “I remember coming

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 17 .business business. who specializes in assisting Finnish and Euro- pean companies doing business in Russia, is the founder/managing partner of the Avenir Group which offers mini-incubator start-up services in law, outsourced accounting and recruitment for foreign investing companies. “Yes, its true, we, as gatekeepers for Western businesses doing business in Russia, have witnessed a dramatic shift in our client’s in- vestment plans. Back then [the 1990’s] it was all about setting up rep offices and branches to arrange the import of goods. Now, 70% of our new clients want to purchase local players in a given sector, or purchase land to set up local manufacturing. These days are exciting in terms of foreign investment into Russia and there seems to be no limit to its potential.” According to Passport Magazine’s research, this is supported by statistics which indicate Courtesy of Ford that foreign direct investment increased 32% home from work at my laboratory at 18:30 rampant that even experts within many in 2005 and more than 40% in 2006. and standing in line at the market for an Western companies are absolutely incapable Foreign investors still find it important to hour just to find out if they had milk, and if of distinguishing the difference between have a local partner to give it a foothold ac- they did, it meant another hour of waiting. real and counterfeit product. This is one of cording to Meridian Capital, a Moscow M&A But the milk might be sold out when my the major risks of manufacturing on an out- firm. turn came.” sourced basis. Out-sourced manufacturing M&A specializes in assisting foreign com- Today, in almost all sectors of the econ- has not really developed in Russia as it has panies enter into business in Russia, and is a omy, there are few examples of product in . The story here is more about com- member of Global M&A, a worldwide net- monopolies and all product sectors have, panies setting up their own private plants work of mid-market M&A boutiques. A great many competitors, both local and foreign. which some would argue is easier in terms of example was a presentation at a Global Markets have matured and now the name the business culture and partnering issues in M&A conference in Venice by floor tile man- of the game is to offer better products of Russia as opposed to China. ufacturer Marazzi. The crowd was stunned good quality at the right price, supported A survey last spring of foreign corpo- by the returns that Marazzi achieved from by marketing. rate investors for the Foreign Investment its export business by first buying a Rus- And although import infrastructure has Advisory Council (FIAC) suggested Russia sian manufacturer and then greenfielding improved dramatically, logistics difficulties was becoming more competitive with the a plant at their domestic partner’s location. associated with importing goods, high cus- other big emerging markets; China, India A Meridian Capital report from last year on toms duties and VAT payable upon import, and Brazil. Some 40% of investors said their pharmaceutical manufacturing identified makes local manufacturing look more and sales in Russia increased more than 30% in fifteen foreign pharmaceutical companies more attractive despite the fact that labor 2005; nearly a third said profits rose more that had expressed an interest in Russian costs in Russia are higher than Asian coun- than 30 per cent. More than 90% of inves- production. The problem is that very few tries or in China. Companies are also finding tors planned to expand both operations Russian pharma producers could be up- that their competitors are manufacturing and investments in Russia within the next graded to Good Manufacturing Practices locally and the importer is at a competitive three years. (GMP), so market entry means some form of disadvantage. It is true that a lot of compa- Many corporate investors say returns in greenfield. nies are investing in production in China. Russia far outstrip what they can earn in One of the most highly publicized sec- However, this is frequently a complex pro- competing destinations, such as China, ac- tors is automobiles. BMW, Ford, Renault, cess requiring quite a bit of local partnering cording to The Financial Times. Hummer, Hyundai, Kia and Ssang Yong and which may cast a cloud of uncertainty over Finland has traditionally been the front Chevrolet already assemble locally. Other assembly investments. Scores of companies door for foreign goods coming into Russia. majors such as Nissan (in conjunction with opt for contract-manufacturing which re- During the Soviet era, Finland was as impor- Suzuki), Toyota and Mitsubishi are either duces risk in terms of investment but often tant to the USSR as a trading partner as the about to open local assembly operations or Western companies are at the mercy of their USSR was to Finland. Communism has given are in the planning process. According to outsourced factories. There is also a strong way to capitalism, but Finland still is one of a recent study by one of the large account- counterfeiting culture at Chinese factories. the most important import hubs to Russia. ing firms, the Russian foreign car market is A factory might have a contract for a well Latvia, now an EU country, has also become now #4 in Europe for foreign cars and will known brand such as Levis (for example) a key doorway to Russia. Many companies exceed the Italian and British markets with- and at night when they are no longer work- use Latvia as a staging area, warehousing in the next four years. In addition, although ing for their client Levis, they could continue goods at Russia’s doorstep, ready to enter these companies assemble locally from im- producing jeans in the factory and make an the market in a matter of hours. ported parts, all have agreements with the unauthorized product which is of the same According to GDP trade figures, Russia is government that requires a steady increase quality and identical in every respect includ- currently Finland’s most important trading in the percentage of locally produced parts ing the labeling. This type of problem is so partner. Jon Hellevig, a Finnish consultant used in assembly. There are significant tax

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 18 .business business. of 9 years ago (before the crisis), not only is there a large manufacturing base in place in most industries, Russia production capacity is actually being used to supply other mar- kets for many multinationals. “We’ve come a long way baby!” It has been a fast and furious 9 years to say the least. This point is corroborated by the rise in GDP which has increased consistently between 5 and 8% every year since 2000. Despite the apparent anti-Russian cam- paign in the West that portrays the country as reverting to the Soviet Union and Presi- dent Putin as the new Stalin, nothing could be further from the truth. The tidal wave of bad press that Russia suffers abroad has not prevented Western board rooms from over- flowing with Russian investment directives. Just listen to Eric Kraus, the articulate author Courtesy of Ford of Truth and Beauty (… and Russian Finance), penalties for those that do not achieve sembly line. Cosmetics firm Avon changed ”There is a fundamental difference between their promised domestic content ratios on the rules of the cosmetics game by reduc- journalists and fund managers: journalists schedule. ing its margins and streamlining its logistics do not lose their jobs for being wrong. Any The developments in the automobile with its shiny new plant not far from Mos- fund manager who followed the advice of sector have been mirrored in other sec- cow. Under competitive pressure, Oriflame the Financial Times and The Economist and tors of the economy as well. Kohler, the soon followed suit. IKEA, not only one of shorted Russian assets at the beginning of well-known bath fixture manufacturer, has Russia’s largest retailers but Moscow’s big- the decade has doubtlessly found another announced plans to build a Russian plant. gest retail landlord, pledged to increase its means of earning a living – perhaps owning Italian Candy Corporation has been manu- sourcing of products domestically, and has a bagel shop in Hampstead. Of course, the facturing washing machines locally for done so. journalists who warned them of the coming several years. A major Japanese television The game has changed so dramatically collapse of Russia are still exercising their player recently inaugurated its Russian as- that compared to the import-only model chosen professions…”

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 19 .business art history. Forum to highlight Russia-Singapore business ties

eading Russian and Asian officials and Singapore, Minister Mentor Lee Kuan Yew, mir Martynov’s symphony, “Singapore”. business executives are scheduled to Russian Economic Development and Trade The Singapore Symphony Orchestra will Lmeet on Tuesday, March 6th at the Minister German Gref, prominent Russian perform with renowned Russian violinist second Russia-Singapore Business Forum in industrialist and investor Oleg Deripaska, Tatiana Grindenko and her string ensemble, the Shangri La hotel, Singapore. The forum the Prime Minister of Tatarstan, Rustam “Opus Posth”, the Vasiliev choir from Mos- is organized by International Enterprise, Sin- Minnikhanov, and the governors of Primor- cow, and a unique Singapore chorus. gapore, Troika Dialogue and the Singapore ye Krai and Tver regions, Sergey Darkin and Relations between Russia and Singapore Embassy in Moscow. Dmitry Zelenin. have been growing rapidly in the last few The event is sponsored by Vneshtorg- A major highlight is the final session years. Apart from cooperation over devel- bank, Ruben, Nomura and StartURussia featuring Gref, Singapore Trade & Industry oping Free Economic Zones, Changi Inter- among others. Minister Lim Hng Kiang, with Minister Men- national Airport has been heavily involved The Forum promises to focus particu- tor Lee Kuan Yew, in conversation with top in the redevelopment of Sheremetyova Ter- larly on Real Estate and Property Develop- industrialists from Russia, China, India and minal 1 (due to open in April) and a number ment and Growth in the Retail Sector, both Singapore. of Singapore's trade missions have been of which should attract significant interest The forum concludes with Singapore through Moscow and St Petersburg in the from Singapore's companies and investors. Beach Party on Sentosa Island offshore Sin- same period. High level representatives from Russia’s gapore. Troika Dialogue has forged a joint ven- regions are attracted by the Singapore In total, 500 participants are expected at ture with Singapore’s Temasek to establish government’s assistance and counseling to the Forum. a venture fund, and Russia’s Renaissance help Russia establish free economic zones. The night before the one day high-pow- Capital held a seminar in the Asian city- Confirmed participants as Passport went ered meeting, participants will be enter- state last year promoting Russia to Asian to press included the ‘father’ of modern tained at the Singapore Premiere of Vladi- investors.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 20 .business art history. Continuing our series on the history of Russian art ikhail Larionov (1881-1964), Nata- THE SILVER AGE lia Goncharova (1881-1962) and MMarc Chagall (1887-1985) were highly individualistic artists who enjoy world renown, but there was an additional OF RUSSIAN bond of kinship between them with their shared interests in small town life. Larionov’s impressionistic “Ap- ART IN THE ple Trees after Rain” (1906) conveys the charm of an old garden and the freshness of its rain-washed colors. In “Sunset after Rain” (1908) Larionov’s stylistic manner has PRE-SOVIET changed to a sharp simplification of forms and laconic colors. With an expressiveness bordering on grotesque, he depicts a small- PERIOD by Olga Slobodkina-von Bromssen town street scene after a down-pour. Natalia Goncharova’s painting “Fish- ing” (1908) may be compared to a mosaic done in small brush strokes placed closely together. The pattern of silhouettes on the cold and gleaming early-morning sky en- hances the decorative nature of the picture. The measured rhythm lends solemnity to the scene of daily toil, which is perceived as idyllic life in harmony with Nature. Larionov’s and Natalia Goncharova’s unset after Rain creative work evolved rapidly, which led at S one stage to an extreme subjectivism – the of the North, and the sunlit scenery of the Luchist (ray) school, a version of non-reality. Crimea. What attracted him above all else But the two artists’ abstractionist obsession was the world of color. He became an out- did not last long. They became depictive standing colorist in the he did in artists again, and contributed greatly to the 1890's (for instance, “Winter” in 1894, theatrical set design. with its delicate silvery-grey color scheme). Cafe In the complex and conflicting works of With time his colors acquired an even interesting architecture or depicting busily Marc Chagall, a mystical and highly subjec- greater richness and decorative expres- moving crowds of people. He painted Mos- tive interpretation of life is combined with siveness. His delight in the picturesque, his cow, Moscow suburbs, provincial Russia and a true-to-life reflection of certain tragic and veritable infatuation with the play of color ancient Russian architecture. Whereas the poetic aspects of modern living. This latter is beautifully rendered in “Paris Café” (1899- impressionists stressed the element of the tendency became stronger during his re- 1990). The virtuosity of his brushwork and accidental in their compositions and dif- turn home after leaving Paris in 1910. Marc his extra-sensory perception of the world fused the dimensions of objects in light and Chagall’s small painting “The Clock” (1914) are manifest in “Roses and Violets” (1912) air, Yuon kept to strict drawing, to the actual stirringly conveys the secrecy of the night, and “Fish, Wine and Fruit” (1916). Korovin shape of things and to a properly construct- the unrelieved misery of small-town exis- designed the scenery for a great number of ed composition, such as his “March Sun- tence, the bleak and monotonous passage stage productions, revealing a brilliant abil- light” (1915) which expresses the fullness of time. The imagery is a blend of the artist’s ity in that medium. and glory of life. childishly acute sensitivity to objects typi- Igor Grabar (1871-1960) painted land- The portraits and genre paintings of fying a mode of existence and his fantasy scapes and still lives in the manner of Post- Filipp Malyavin (1869-1940) were always brought to life as in a bad dream. “Wedding” . For a number of years he included in the Union of Russian Artists’ ex- (1914-1918) is a compelling affirmation of studied in Munich, and subsequently taught hibitions. Born into a peasant family, Maly- the beauty and tenderness of love, which painting there. His “March Snow” and “Feb- avin became a monk as a young man and transforms the world and miraculously ruary Blue” (both 1904) are done with small, lived in the Afon Monastery. Afterwards he unites the earthly and the celestial. thick brush strokes to convey the vibration studied in Ilya Repin’s workshop and very The Union of Russian Artists which was of the air, the suffusion of the scenery with soon became renowned for his paintings founded in 1903 had a majority of Moscow light, and the sparkle and softness of the of peasant women. A riot of colors, painters who developed the style of the snow. Grabar often returned to the same with shades of red prevailing, is the distin- impressionists in their work. The Russian motifs to paint the changing colors of the guishing feature of his mature work, such as landscape occupied a place of importance landscape viewed in a different light. “Whirl” (1906). The abandon with which the in their paintings. Konstantin Yuon (1875-1958), one of Ryazan women are dancing is expressed in (1861-1939), an art- the leading masters of the Union of Rus- the rhythm and the colors, and is rendered ist with a sanguine temperament, found sian Artists, invariably drew his inspiration all the more dynamic by Malyavin’s char- inspiration in a Russian village landscape, from the beauty of his native land. He had acteristic manner of laying on the paint in in a Paris street scene, in the austere beauty a propensity for painting scenes featuring large, energetic brush strokes.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 21 .travel travel.

s I rode from to Turkey, the Olga Slobodkina-von Bromssen lush green countryside, a lazy re- ISTANBUL Alaxed paradise, turned into the Turkish plain that reminded me of nothing so much as the Crimean steppe. Only the sparsely planted minarets suddenly threw THROUGH my heartbeat out of time – I'm in Turkey. Here one is immediately gripped by this un- mistakably Turkish spirit – the taste of strong astringent coffee... and Allah, Allah above all. RUSSIAN EYES He somehow greeted me, although he knew I was a Christian. I could see his benevolent face - he was wearing a Turkish tasseled cap and seemed to be saying, "I remember you, I saw you in a Tartar village in the Crimea. Wel- come to another country of mine." I sighed with relief – this was a good sign and more- over, I was traveling alone. In the distance a plane was landing on Istanbul – a huge unhurried dragon fly – and as my bus stopped at a small cafe I saw my first Turks – men slightly remind- ing me of Soviet Uzbeks, women wearing their broad trousers tied up at the ankles and wrapped up from head to toe, (includ- ing their minds?), and children – sweet and unexpectedly blue-eyed. Getting involved in the rigamarole of changing dollars into Turkish – strangely called liras – I won- dered whether the Turks cheat. And – oh! – do they not! But during this preliminary acquaintance with the country I swas lucky. I had my first cup of Turkish coffee and a

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 22 .travel travel.

bun, which I thought I deserved after the dazzling Istanbul. industrial, entertainment and educational double torture at 5 in the morning of the Once a city that aroused the curiosity of center of the country, Istanbul has always passport-customs control on the Bulgarian travelers as the center of the world, Istan- been the largest city in Turkey, with 7 million border, which was thoroughly and diligent- bul is now a metropolis where Eastern and people (according to the guide book "Gate to ly repeated by the Turkish officials on their Western architecture meet. Here the con- the East") or possibly 16 million people (ac- side of the border. temporary Western way of life exists side by cording to the Russian-speaking guides). As I sat in the cafe my fresh impressions side with the traditional. Modern buildings, If you want to imagine a map of Istanbul, took the shape of poetry : art forms and artifacts rub shoulders with just cut a round apple into 3 parts and there the classical Turkish, Byzantine and Roman you are: the lower left triangle is the historic Planes land on Istanbul, masterpieces. Owing largely to its status as city center, the upper one – the new town Huge dragon flies. the most active trading, import and export, (both lying on the European continent) while I'm in Turkey: a sleepless night, tortures on the border, Now I can hardly unglue my eyes. After the lush green Bulgaria Turkey looks almost like the Crimean steppe. And just when you meet The sparsely set minarets Your heart is momentarily taken out of beat.

ORIENTATION That was the first impression of Turkey. The first impression ofI stanbul was weird – that of a European capital, into which a lot of Moslem architecture had crept and finally took hold of the city. Or was it the way the contemporary European architecture has grown around the old Moslem city center like weeds? Anyway, that is Istanbul; city of two con- tinents, capital of three empires, Byzantium, the fore-runner of Russian Orthodoxy – the

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 23 .travel travel.

the third piece on the right is the Asian part as the center of the Old World. Indeed, Is- tomary then to consult soothsayers before inhabited by fabulously rich people. tanbul was the capital of one empire after doing anything. The soothsaying priests The historic city of Istanbul was origi- another (Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman ) told Byzas they should settle at a place "fac- nated on seven hills (like Rome or Moscow) for 1,600 years; a capital where over 120 ing the land of the blind." Byzas and his peo- of a peninsula surrounded on its 3 sides by emperors and sultans reigned. ple set sail and after a long and exhausting the Sea of Marmara, the Bosporus and its search in many seas, came to the peninsula arm called the Golden Horn. The location HOW IT ALL STARTED of Istanbul. They immediately admired the was ideal for many reasons. It was centrally The most famous legend about the beauty and bounty lying before them and located on East-West trade routes, and eas- foundation of Istanbul goes as follows: noticed the possibilities offered by the gulf ily defendable with only one landward side, about 650 B.C. a tribe of seafarers decided now called the Golden Horn. fertile soil and a climate that was mild year to leave their home – a city called Megara They also found a colony of people round. The city grew gradually and from –under the guidance of their leader Byzar, living across the strait and Byzas pro- the 4th century A.D. it has been regarded to search for a new homeland. It was cus- nounced, "if people who have come this

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 24 .travel travel. close to a piece of land so suitable for settlement fail to see its Istanbul Practical Information: Getting there (from Moscow) virtues, they must be blind." The seafarers founded a city on the Turkish airlines. Address: 1/8 Kuznetsky most str., Moscow. Office hours peninsula. Today one calls it Istanbul. On the other hand, traces 9-18 (Mon-Fri), Tel: +7 495 292-5121, 292-16-67, 578-2728 of settlement, which date back to about the 3rd millennium B.C. Aeroflot (Russian airlines). Address:125167, Moscow, Leningradsky pr., have been uncovered in excavations near the apex of the Golden 37/9. Office hours 9-18 (Mon-Fri). Tel: (+7 495) 223-5555 (24 hours) Horn and in the Asian part of the city. Where to stay: Poem Hotel, A Resort Bookings Member (NEAR THE OLD SULTANAH- WHAT TO SEE MET). Akbivik Cad Terbiyik Sok No. ISTANBUL tr 34400 There is much to see in Istanbul, which is rich in churches, Prices: Average Nightly Rate – US$ 55 mosques, museums and other attractions. However, if you come Best Western Acropol Hotel (SULTANAHMET/NEAR ST. SOPHIA) for just a couple of days there are several essentials: Akbiyik Ad Number 25. ISTANBUL tr 34400 The Sultan Ahmed Mosque, or the Blue Mosque, one of the most Prices: Average Nightly Rate – US$ 200 revered masterpieces of Islamic architecture not only in Turkey, but Dedeman Istanbul Hotel. Yildiz Posta Caddest 50 in the Islamic World as well. It dominates the city's profile at night ISTANBUL tr 80700. Prices: Average Nightly Rate – US$ 150 with its 6 minarets and is a striking example of the classical mosque. Istanbul Hilton. Cumhuriyet Caddesi. ISTANBUL tr 80200 Although built between 1609 and 1616 by Sultan Ahmed (and Prices: Average Nightly Rate – US$ 250 named after him), the mosque is known throughout the world as Useful Contacts: "the Blue Mosque" owing to the dominant color of the paint and the Russian General Consulate in Istanbul ceramic tiles used generously to decorate its interior. The architect Address: Istiklal Caddesi 443, Beyoglu, Istanbul, Turkey. designed and built the mosque as the core of a complex consisting Tel: +90 212 292-5101, 292-5102, 292-5103. Email: [email protected] of such functional buildings as a covered bazaar, a Turkish bath, a DHL Istanbul. Yalcin Kores Cad 20. Yenibosna. 34540 Istanbul public kitchen for the poor, a hospital, schools, a caravansarai (an Tel: 212 478-1000. Fax: 212 478-1400 inn, usually with a large courtyard, for the overnight accommoda- Istanbul on the web: tion of caravans) and later the tomb of Sultan Ahmed I. Unfortu- On-line hotel booking – www.istanbulhotels.com nately, most of these structures have not survived to this day. Istanbul travel guide – www.istanbulexcursions.com The Hagia Sophia Museum is nominated as one of the 8 wonders of the world. It’s architectural mastery was far ahead of its time and unmatched for 1,000 years. Originally, the name Hagia Sophia ("Ayasofya" in Turkish) was mis-translated as So- phia. The basilica was not dedicated to a saint named Sophia, but rather to Holy Wisdom. Although it was created during the 6th century as a Byzantine work, Hagia Sophia is actually an experiment in the Roman tradition of architecture. It had no precedent and could not be imitated afterwards. During the basilica's dedication, Emperor Justinian was so excited that he drove his chariot right into the building and praised the Lord for judging him worthy of such an achievement shouting that he had surpassed King Solomon. The basilica soon developed into a religious center with mon- asteries surrounding it within a few years. It was soon to be the scene of the perpetual struggle between the Byzantine Emper- ors and the Eastern Church. After serving for 916 years as a basil- ica and 477 years as a place of worship to two religions believing in the same God, the Hagia Sophia was converted into a museum upon 20th century sectarian leader Ataturk's orders. The Topkapi Palace is the oldest and the largest of the re- maining palaces in the world. It is located where the acropolis of Byzantium once stood on the peninsula overlooking the Golden Horn, the Bosporus and the sea of Marmara. It covers 700,000 sqm and is surrounded by 5 km of walls. Its treasures can only be compared to those of the Kremlin. It contains the Holy Relics of Islam, the Treasury, the Imperial , Islamic Porcelain and Ottoman armor. The architecture of the Palace is unprecedented and the sophisticated interiors are breathtaking. If you have more than a couple of days you may visit Kariye Museum (the Church of St. Savior in Chora Monastery), famous for its Byzantine frescoes of "the Renaissance." A boat trip along the Bosporus including a landing on the Asian continent is very exciting. The Grand Bazaar is also great fun. Or you may go to the Princes' Islands – the archipelago consisting of 9 variously sized islands in the Sea of Marmara, which will take you only an hour by boat from the piers of the Golden Horn.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 25 .real estate New international By JAMES ALEXANDER dimension to Moscow’s leading residential realtor

of product and service, corporate cul- dential towers within the 'Moscow City' ture and key companies' values and phi- project, to whole suburban mini-cities, losophy there were lots of synergies, we like Rublyovo-Arkhangelskoye, where in- needed time to get to know each other ternational case studies and expertise are better. We worked very closely with Sav- extremely relevant." ills for nearly a year on some joint clients Already the partnership is promoting and schemes, while discussing the prin- London properties represented by Sav- ciples of our partnership agreement. This ills on their web site (www.intermark.ru) very pleasant working relationship gave and Mr Lawson comments, “The part- both parties confidence that we would nership gives us an opportunity to work make an excellent partnership." very closely with Savills to provide their While no decision on locating Savills properties to Russian clients. Savills was executives here has been taken, the new one of the largest providers of services partnership is looking at “an opportunity to Russian property buyers in the UK in of having a Savills expert working here in 2006, and together we plan to further Moscow, especially on consultancy and develop this segment, offering the best Frazer Lawson investment projects”, according to Mr UK and other international properties to Lawson our clients – such as the most exclusive he announcement that Moscow’s Mr Lawson acknowledges that, ”Join- London project – OneHydePark, created leading residential real estate ing forces with an established interna- on the site of the former 1950's building Tcompany, Intermark had formed tional property network is a tremendous Bowater House in Knightsbridge. a partnership with the major interna- benefit for Intermark. It gives us cred- “That project is designed by pre-emi- tional property services company, Savills, ibility, international strength, access to nent architect Richard Rogers, the devel- caused hardly a stir in the local market the international expertise that equips opment of 80 apartments and three ex- as the two have been in active, and well us much more effectively with tools and clusive boutiques within four pavilions, known, negotiations for some two years. knowledge in various real estate fields: will offer the best views over the park and While there was nothing surprising about from rentals to international investment luxurious designs, developed by Candy & the deal to form IntermarkSavills, the full advice. Candy, London‘s leading Interior and ar- ramifications of the tie-up may have been “We have an opportunity to train our chitectural designers and development missed by blasé local competitors. staff in accordance with international managers. Intermark’s 13 years of experience in standards, expose our people to Savills’ “Of course, IntermarkSavills will con- the Russian residential property market is way of working, shape the knowledge tinue delivering services in property now joined by Savills, whose name is syn- that we have been gathering for several lettings and sales which remain our key onymous with luxury residential property years on the Russian market, and give it a focus, including providing our expat cor- worldwide. With 112 offices around the new dimension. The partnership will ob- porate clients with quality properties for globe and a reported turnover of $737 viously help us provide a consistent high comfortable living in Moscow and high million, Savills worldwide marketing level of service to all our clients.” level relocation services.” clout will help establish elite town and One area where the partnership will But the local partnership has no plans country properties in Moscow as poten- give IntermarkSavills the muscle to ex- to use Savill’s experience to break into tial investments on a par with Sydney or pand services is in consultancy to devel- the commercial or retail sectors in Russia. Capetown. opers. “Being an expert in all aspects of residen- While the two firms have been flirting “The Russian development market is tial real estate is one of the main advan- for two years, it is only in the last year that changing very rapidly,” according to Mr tages of Intermark, and we will stick to they started working together. Lawson. “There are a number of large- this strategy in the near future. Intermark- Fraser Lawson, Partner of Intermark- scale mixed-use schemes numbering Savills will capitalize on the experience Savills commented to Passport, “Selecting thousands of residential units each, cur- gathered by Intermark in this sector and a partner, for both of us was a very seri- rently under development, which have will expand the range of services offering ous process and decision. Although we no case studies to compare them with in financial/mortgage consultancy, invest- knew that from the standpoint of quality Russia. These range from high-rise resi- ment services,” concludes Mr Lawson.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 26 .real estate .real estate real estate. ith hotel room rates skyrocketing to $300 a night and up, resource- Wful Moscow real estate agencies and entrepreneurs are filling the gap with serviced apartments. If four years ago only a handful of entrepreneurs had introduced the concept of serviced apartments in Mos- cow, now the market is bustling at all levels of quality and price. At the upper end of the scale are opera- tors such as Pulford and Intermark. Their properties are centrally located on such thoroughfares as Tverskaya and Arbat. Apart from the benefits offered by ser- viced apartments in all major cities, demand in Moscow is spurred by the shortage and extreme expense of hotel rooms. Moscow City Government over the last three years has embarked on a hotel renewal program. In essence this has meant that almost simul- taneously, major tourist-class hotels have Serviced Apartments By JAMES ALEXANDER grow in number and variety as an alternative to Moscow Hotels been demolished. The mammoth Rossiya, the Moskva, Intourist and Minsk went down almost together. In total, industry experts estimate that over 5,000 mid-priced hotel rooms have been removed from the market over the last few years. A tiny fraction of these lost rooms are being replaced by ultra-expensive five star or even more luxurious properties being built on their sites. Suburban three-star Russian standard hotels more typically used by traders from the provinces than foreign tourists or businessmen are somewhat fill- ing the gap at the lower levels. Even hotels outside Moscow city limits are finding the demand hard to meet. Meanwhile, serviced apartments are flourishing. Denis Shmaryov, head of Inter- mark Serviced Apartments, says; “The ad- vantages of a serviced apartment versus a hotel for a visiting businessman are obvious. Premium and secure locations in the city center with more space, greater privacy and generally more comfort. A fully equipped kitchen stocked with food, free hi-speed in- ternet and free local calls, hotel style maid service, laundry service, and technical sup- port are usually provided. And while all our apartments offer quality décor and are fully furnished and equipped with everything

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 28 .real estate real estate. you would expect to have at home: satellite ments is the freedom and flexibility to en- to use the services of me or my close as- TV, DVD, stereo, washer, iron, fridge, micro- tertain Russian business colleagues ‘in your sociates please be prepared to provide a wave, toaster, electric kettle, hair-dryer, the home’. Russians are highly impressed by legitimate reason why you are traveling to rates are very, very reasonable.” such access and you earn kudos in their Russia. Business or academic interests are As a home away from home, the many eyes which parlays into a more successful acceptable. ‘Just travel’ is sort of OK. Any- well appointed apartments at around $130 business relationship with you. thing else is suspect. Sports fan are non a night now available in central Moscow are Much further down the scale are the $40 gratis and all British or Australian nationals ideal for visiting executives who know their a night apartments offered in the classified are suspect. My respect for music notwith- way around Moscow and don’t need the section of the local Moscow Times. Expect standing, I will ask the practitioners of this coddling of a hotel concierge to draw a map Russian standard basic. The bed may be art to stay elsewhere after a few complaints or pick a restaurant, advice on the nearest propped up with books, the plumbing ec- from neighbors.” pharmacy, or book theater tickets. A cer- centric, and the refrigerator might provide UnclePasha’s site also links you to tain independence is required of clients a constant hum and the occasional shudder. cheap home stays and other budget ac- for serviced apartments. A basic ability to These are not domiciles in which to ‘enter- commodations. For example, he charm- locate the nearest supermarket to buy the tain to impress’, but are substantially more ingly promotes Mrs. Kamilla Nikolayevna provisions so you can actually use the IKEA comfortable and private than the rooms by Sharvina’s home stay thus: “A room full of equipped kitchen would be typical! the night or hour advertised on cards hang- an assortment of items, from real antiques Through the established, quality pro- ing from the neck of pensioners trawling to construction debris, in the classic 'Mos- viders expect to pay $100 and up a night, the streets in front of the city’s mainline rail- cow clutter' style, with a mid-19th century usually irrespective of how many people way stations. couch. The sort on which Oblomov lived sleep there. Intermark (www.intermark. Variations on the serviced apart- and died. A clumsy but comfortable piece ru) is typical of Western-style professional ment are home stays which can be found of furniture, as I had a chance to assess services. They have a fully-illustrated web- through the Internet. “Uncle Pasha” (www. for myself when overcome with an urge site for short-term rentals and their rates unclepasha.com) stands out. Paul Voytin- to take a nap in the middle of making this vary from $120 to $260 a night. They offer a sky offers a small one-bedroom with mez- page. Superb location just off Maroseyka, choice of 35 apartments. One of their two- zanine apartment, suitable for 2-3 people, near Metro Kitay Gorod, 5 min. to the KGB room apartments on Arbat Street offers on the canal across from (M. headquarters, in a fashionable ‘arts’ area of large, double glazed pvc windows, a large Novokuznetskaya, Tretyakovskaya). It is the city. All this in exchange for a $15/night comfortable bedroom with queen-sized cleaned daily and assistance is available contribution to Mrs. Sharvina's household bed and a living room with satellite TV, DVD for grocery shopping or buying tickets. He economy!! Space can probably be cleared player and music system. The living room also includes a complimentary cell phone for the second person. I'd say $10 extra for boasts two sofas, both of which fold out and a computer with high speed internet now will do. No rats. No roaches. Plumb- into double beds. There’s a large desk at access all for $120 a night. “Neither ‘bud- ing is in nearly working order. Leaks don't which two can work comfortably and a one get’ nor ‘luxury’, but a good choice for count; they are part of the style. Quiet. You megabyte Internet . The kitchen anyone who prefers it practical, functional, will feel secure behind one of those doors boasts an electric cooker, microwave and a yet totally respectable,” his web site pro- with four locks and a chain.” variety of pots and pans. claims. To call Paul idiosyncratic would A former assistant to Mr. Voytinsky, Four Squares, (www.foursquares.ru) probably be a compliment! Among other Olesya Pomazan, has set up a Girl Friday with 16 apartments available and a price indications is this announcement on his Service to do everything from errands to per night starting at 150 euros for a 30-night site: “After a succession of clients from research. A single mother from the Sibe- booking, is aiming at the resident expatriate hell from among Russian women seekers, rian city of Tomsk, she also offers bed and and corporate market. I am forced to suspend services (including breakfast at $25 per person per night and One of the benefits of serviced apart- apartment rental) to this crowd. If you plan her web site (www.russiangirlfriday.com) also carries ads for other similarly-priced home stays and links to home stays in oth- er cities from St Petersburg to along the Trans-Siberian railroad. Ms. Pomazan and Uncle Pasha both of- fer ‘orientation’ tours to familiarize you with the city and the neighborhood so you can safely trust your visiting relatives to their care while you commute from your studio flat to your office. Moscow hotels are frequently complete- ly full during the extremely busy times of major trade fairs or during state occasions when many foreign dignitaries are in town. At such times the city center is well served by these business class serviced apart- ments. At the very least, consider these excellent alternatives to the $300 + hotel rooms you might automatically book dur- ing your stay in Moscow.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 29 .feature feature. s I hold a clay figurine – a headless woman’s torso – dating back to A7,000 B.C., Olga Chugai, the owner of this unique collection, explains that it is the Goddess of fecundity. Other figurines in the collection also represent women – in positions of standing or reclining depend- ing on their symbolic function – and all are elements of the cult of the Great Mother. The cult of the Great Mother was a primor- dial religion practiced on the territory of con- temporary Eurasia. Judging by the innumer- able images which we have inherited from pre-history Eurasia, the source of the ancient religious feeling was the great sacrament of the woman’s life-giving force of creation. The Great Goddess Mother, whose womb gave birth to all creations, was the metaphor for Nature itself, the universal source of life con- stantly renewed in the uninterrupted cycle of life, death and regeneration. Olga is showing me other figurines, both sacramental and those that imitate tools. She says that although they had been found in the fields of and Moldavia, they are very similar to those found in the Middle East which date back to the ancient times of Tumar. A female amulet dedicated to the sacral marriage. The central horizontal tube contains verses from the Koran. Mesopotamia. According to Chugai, Meso- FROM THE PRIMORDIAL RELIGION OF THE GREAT MOTHER –TO SACRED CONTEMPORARY

ORIENTAL ART By Olga Slobodkina-von Bromssen. Photo by jason platt potamia, a most powerful culture dating An object put on the ring finger of a young wife so that her mother-in-law back to 5,000-7,000 B.C. and perhaps even could hear the bells and is sure that the girl is working to earlier times, was created by women. “At when she was embroidering least it’s quite clear,” says Chugai, “that when or sowing. mankind started digging the earth and tools appeared, it was woman who harvested the

grains; it was woman who breast-fed the Bracelet – Bilizik. wild animals thus domesticating them; it A bracelet with snakes head at the ends, which protects was woman who was responsible for healthy the hand making it strong and fertile. new generations; and it was woman who gave birth to the prehistoric religion reflect- Along with the oldest part of her collec- ed in the sacred art of clay figurines and pro- tion which includes clay dogs – guardians tective amulets.” of fields; Chugai shows me other clay dogs, If we talk about the first monotheistic spotted – the spots portraying grains. religion of mankind, it was, according to These were made in the 1970’s and look Chugai, the Religion of Woman. “Even dur- very much the same as their prehistoric ing the period of Paleolithic times (circa forerunners. “That’s the continuation of 100,000 B.C.),” continues Chugai, “one the tradition,” she says when I express my can find stone images of women with big astonishment. wombs and breasts. It was the portrayal of Olga Chugai, poet and historian, started the same Mother Goddess. With religion re- her collection more than 25 years ago. A taining the Christian image of the Mother of great discovery was the books by Marija God – this is an endless thread.” Gimbutas, an acknowledged Western his-

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 30 .feature feature. t signifiest soweda field and the I A ritual ring for dancing. Halfbuckleofa for the dress. union of two families connected by a marriage. braceletA from Burhara protecting the wrist. Women usually wore a couple bracelets.

torian. Gimbutas’ book Gods and Goddess- braids. These protective amulets are silver importance, they also needed protection es gave Chugai a clue to how it all began. with cornelian and date back to the 19th from evil energies. In Chugai’s collection “This book,” says Chugai, “turns all our ideas century. Medieval Europe was using similar one can see protective amulets for boys of pre-historic religions upside down or, to amulets for protective purposes. comprising an owl, which is one more ele- be more exact, puts them in the right place. One of the amulets in the collection rep- ment of the Mother Goddess. Men can at Even in the ancient pantheon the female resents the sacred unity between man and least rejoice in the fact that most dresses Goddess dominates.” woman: a triangle (symbolizing the female in the collection are men’s – Turkmenistan The greatest portion of Chugai’s collec- element) and a stick (a phallic symbol). The men’s wedding dresses and Afghan men’s tion includes the sacred artifacts of Turk- next amulet represents the sacred marriage dancing dresses. “Although the design of menistan. A sacred amulet slightly reminis- and consists of diamond-shaped pieces. It these dresses is mostly vegetation,” says cent of a heart in its form (but is actually a was meant to protect the family. The dia- Chugai, “it also goes back to the symbols of woman’s backside) was worn by women of mond-shaped design is repeated in one of the Great Mother.” the sacrum. It consists of 3 parts and sym- the carpets in Chugai’s studio. “The world is changing again regarding bolizes the three ages of the Goddess (or As I pick up a comb, Chugai says that the woman’s independence,” says Chugai, “and the woman): A young girl (Artemis or Di- comb was also considered to be a kind of in this connection, I think the accomplish- ana in the antique tradition), a birth-giving protection apart form its functional use. “It ment of Marija Gimbutas (who died in 1994) woman (Aphrodite or Venus) and a grand- symbolizes rain and serves as a wall block- is about the fact that after excavating sites mother who takes man away from this ing the evil forces.” in Europe for 15 years, this great woman world. These are three facets of the same Another group of amulets portrays a introduced clarity to the contemporary his- Mother Goddess. This amulet was not just a birth-giving Goddess, and is also called torical thinking with her books Civilization pure decoration, but was worn as an amulet snake-legged. It is the precursor of the of the Goddess. The World of Old Europe, The responsible for regeneration (and therefore Greek Orthodox Oranta. Other elements Living Goddess and others.” so important for a woman) and had a prac- of the Mother Goddess were a bird, a bee The Russian reader can now enjoy one tical significance; it protected the woman and a butterfly. The proportion of images of Gimbutas’s books Civilization of the God- from evil forces. It was put on the outside of of men to those of women in the sacred art dess. The World of Old Europe translated into all the woman’s clothes, which were multi- is about 1 in 15. But notwithstanding that Russian and published recently by Rospen layered in Turkmenistan, and fixed to the men in the ancient world were of secondary Publishing, while those who are interested in authentic Turkmenistan silver jewelry – not only those to be worn on the sacrum, but original rings, earrings, bracelets or pendants, can buy them at the “Arti-Fact” t is the Great I Salon, “Ansy” Gallery. “Ansy” Gallery: 933-51-78. Address: Prechistenka 30. A buckle on the head scarf. A snakes, a cobra, which gives strength and wisdom to the head. Dagdam – A birth giving female goddess whomother is the itself. cultural figure of the ancient cult. A pendant on the braid protecting the women’s loins.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 31 .feature feature. Fighting Fit It’s winter in Moscow. The sun left town. Put a spring in your step with the help of an exercise bike, some Hatha Yoga or a round of Thai boxing. Here is the Passport Magazine Winter Guide to the Top 10 Fitness Clubs in Moscow (in alphabetical order). In Russia we say, “A big person is a good person.” It sounds like a good excuse for those people with ample, voluptuous bodies; the object of admiration of medieaval artists and still, according to the statistics, the majority of Russian men nowadays. For both men and women, however, the first couple of weeks after the Christmas and New Year holidays are the right time to start getting into shape. No matter what it is you like to do to trim the fat, you can find the right club in Moscow. But, if you are a foreigner in Moscow, you might be confused by the number and variety of fitness and health clubs. We have checked out a lot of them, and here are the ones we like the most. By Nataliya Dementeva Daev Club A well-equipped sports and fitness club with a friendly staff, and a truly eye-catch- ing variety of unexpected ways of prepar- ing for spring. The membership has more women than men. We love the sound of the Wild Cat dances (it really does have some- thing to do with cat behaviour). What they offer: step aerobics, step progres- sive; step basic; sound on step; revolution step; step mix, body sculpt, barbell workout, Marina Club Fitness Centre oriental exercises, stretch, latina soul, Hatha One of the largest fitness clubs for all the Yoga, Thaibo, Wild Cat dances, Yoga classic, tainly popular (for which read sometimes family, in Moscow, situated on the shore of Khi-kong, mix dance, sexy dance, body bal- crowded). the Khimkinskoe Water Reservoir, with a ance, self-defense courses, Indian dance, R&B What they offer: gym, cardio-gym, variety huge swimming pool using a unique wa- dance, Latin dance, , strip dance. of group programmess, art-club; swimming ter-cleaning system. There is even a special Cost: Annual 30,000 rubles ($900) pool; personal training, spas salon, Russian sports complex for pregnant women. Address: Daev Lane, 20 banya, sports store, children’s club, boxing What they offer: Olympic standard swim- Tel: 204-8223/24; ring, tennis court. ming pool 50x25 m; unique ultra-violet wa- Metro: Turgenevskaya Cost: Annual 66,300 rubles ($1900); ter treatment system; individual “water” and Web: www.daev.ru Half year 55,250 rubles ($1600) “land” rehabilitation programs; open air Sport and Spa Men’s Health Club Address: Klimashkina Str. 17, Bldg. 2 programmes in any season; trimester pro- One of the few fitness clubs in Moscow Metro: Ulitsa 1905 Goda grammes for pregnant women; post-natal which is specifically aimed at men. The club Tel.: 540-4626 recovery programme; kids club (programmes is stylish and well-equipped. Web: www.worldclass.ru for pre-school children 3 to 6 years old), junior What they offer: gym; solarium; spa salon; Biosphere 5* school children (7 to 12 years) and teenagers personal training; massage; cardiotherapy; A superbly well-equipped spa and club (fitness programmes, special develop- diagnostics; sauna; fitness bar. health club for both men and women, occu- ing programmes, open-air programmes, Cost: Annual 70,000 rubles ($1960) pying four floors of a state-of-the-art build- summer and winter out-of-town health im- Address: Krilatskaya Str., 10 ing, with a floor area of 3,000 sq. metres. It proving camps); medical care room; beauty Metro: Krilatskoe looks like a five-star hotel. Exclusive in all parlour; massage room; aqua massage; div- Tel.: 968-4818 respects. ing; "Submarine" restaurant (Italian, Mediter- Web: www.sportspa.ru What they offer: ftness facilities, spa centre, ranean cuisine, banqueting menu); "Parus" World Class aqua zone including swimming pools, sau- cafe (fresh fruit and vegetable juices, fitness This well-run chain of fitness clubs is nas, jacuzzi and solarium, massage. menu); climbing wall. one of the most well-known in Moscow, Cost: Annual 96,200 rubles ($2700); Cost: Annual 43,500 rubles ($1200); and is expanding all over Russia, with clubs Half year 67,340 rubles ($1900) Half year 28,000 rubles ($1000) in St Petersburg, , Kazan, Ekaterin- Address: Mal. Kalujskaya Str., 15, Bldg. 4; Address: Leningradsky Shosse, 25a burg…. They are ‘corporate’ clubs, mean- Metro: Kalujskaya Metro: Voikovskaya ing that they all look the same and offer Tel.: 780-7171, 955-9323 Tel.: 363-6061 the same facilities. You can be certain of Cards: Visa Electron, MasterCard Web: www.marina-club.ru what you are getting, and they are cer- Web: www.biosphereclub.ru

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 32 .feature feature. Marcus Aurelius Modern, stylish sports club for men and women with a big vari- РУССКИЙ ЯЗЫК ety of choices from Thai boxing to dance classes. What they offer: gyms, cardio-equipment, one-on-one training, aerobics, Eastern types of wrestling (Thaibo, taecwando, karate), kickboxing, dance How to say… Is it possible? classes, yoga, child care, spa-salon, solarium, massage, fitness bar. Cost: Monthly 4,960 rubles ($130); Annual 35,200 rubles ($920); Address: Ulitsa Unosti, 15. Phone: 374-5149; Metro: Vixino Можно…? Izmailovskoe Shosse, 71. Phone: 737-7100, 166-1136; Metro: Iz- Equally translatable as: Can I? Can you? Would it be ok if..? mailovskaya Without doubt the most useful word in Russian. If you point at Web: www.aurelius.ru something and ask ‘можно?’ you’ll probably get it. And if you want Orange Fitness to be a little more precise: An up-to-date fitness club for both men and women with a nice, affable staff. To ask someone to do something for you: What they offer: swimming pool; gym; aerobics; fitness bar; sun beds; Можно показать? massage; sauna; personal programs; kids’ club; individual training. (nice and easy, the verb after можно is always in the infinitive) Cost: Annual 40,000 rubles ($1300) Address: Moscow, Konny Per, 4 Сan you show me? Metro: Shabolovskaya Можно подсказать? Tel: 502-9191 Can you tell me? Web: www.orangefit.ru/en Можно взвесить? Petrovka Sports An exclusive fitness club for men and women, with a loyal, well- Can you weigh this? heeled membership. Можно мне перезвонить попозже? What they offer: individual programmes of physical exercises; personal Can you phone me back later? fitness and aerobics training; various aerobics courses (step, stretch and relax, Latino, Pilates, oriental dance, karate and many others); spinning; To find out if you can do something: cardio- and strength training; professional instructors; kids sport. Можно примерить? Can I try this on? Cost: Monthly 11,814 rubles ($340); Annual 85,920 rubles ($2400); gold Можно здесь курить? Is it possible to smoke here? (solarium and personal trainer included) 136,400 rubles ($3820) Можно туда дойти пешком? Is it possible to walk there? Address: 1 Kolobovskiy Per. 4 Можно посмотреть поближе? Can I have a closer look? Metro: Tsvetnoy Bulvar Tel.: 933-8700 And the simple answer: ‘Да, можно!’ Web: www.petrovkasports.ru/eng/ Unless you are refused: ‘Нет, нельзя!’ Planet Fitness To acquire something: Planet Fitness is a chain of sports and fitness clubs, with branch- es all over Moscow. The clubs are popular with ambitious Russian Можно, пожалуйста, полкило? professional men and women, for whom a membership is a manda- Can I have half a kilo? tory ‘badge’ of the modern urban Muscovite lifestyle. Saying that Можно, пожалуйста, тот зелёный? you have just been to, or are going to, Planet Fitness, is now a part Can I have that green one? of the . What they offer: various gyms; children’s care; different types of aero- To ask to speak to someone on the phone: bics; swimming pools; dance class; individual trainings; spa; solarium; Можно Елену к телефону? dancing studio; personal training studio. (accusative ending: feminine names will end -y) Cost: Annual 60,000 rubles ($1680) Можно Ивана к телефону? Address: Moscow, B. Kislovsky Pereulok, 9; Metro: Arbatskaya Tel.: 933-71-00 (masculine names add –a) Web: www.fitness.ru Some generally useful phrases: Vita Spot Можно на секунду? An unusual sports club for men and women, which aims at a philos- Can I use/have/borrow that a moment? ophy of both physical and spiritual fitness. T he facilities are excellent. Можно на время? Can I borrow that for a while? What they offer: Turkish baths; Russian banya; spa; swimming pool Можно сейчас? Can I do it now? with geysers and hydro-massage; open-air swimming pool with heat- Можно потом? Can I do it later? ed water; swimming pool with counter-flow; fitness workout room; Oriental centre, aerobics; hard tennis courts; grass tennis courts; tennis And one of the first we all learn: academy; games room for children. Можно, пожалуйста, счёт? Can I have the bill? Cost: Annual 74,100 rubles ($2100); Half year 48,360 roubles ($1400) PREVIOUS PHRASES ON WWW.RUSLINGuA.COM Address: Zhivopisnaya Str, 21, Bldg. 2 Metro: Schukinskaya, Oktyabrskoye Pole Tel: 730-3636 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.valerysport.ru

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 33 .performing arts performing arts.

By Glenn Walters 80 Years Young he second day of 2007 marked the the Bolshoi in August 2000, a rapproche- called “Legend of Love.” 80th birthday of Yury Grigorovich, ment began to develop. The spring of 2001 In 1963, the Bolshoi invited Grigorovich Tballetmaster of the Bolshoi Theater saw a return of Grigorovich’s “Swan Lake,” to choreograph Tchaikovsky’s “The Sleep- for more than three decades, and without to take the place of a mediocre version ing Beauty.” A year later, he was appointed much doubt the most important choreog- choreographed by Vasilyev. Then came artistic director of the theatre’s ballet com- rapher at work in Russia during the second “Giselle,” “Legend of Love,” “” pany. His first work upon taking up the post half of the 20th century. and, just last March, a stunning revival of was Tchaikovsky’s “The Nutcracker,” in a To celebrate the anniversary, the Bol- Dmitri Shostakovich’s “The Age of Gold,” highly original but strictly classical produc- shoi started off January with a festival of in honour of the 100th anniversary of the tion that has continued to delight Bolshoi specially-prepared performances of four of composer’s birth. audiences ever since. the nine Grigorovich-choreographed works Trained as a dancer in his native Lenin- Next, in 1968, came “,” per- that form the backbone of the theatre’s bal- grad, Grigorovich made his debut there at haps Grigorovich’s most important and let repertoire. A short time later, it honoured the Kirov (now Mariinsky) Theater in 1947. enduring work, and the ballet which, more the choreographer with a gala evening of Soon, however, he developed a bent for than any other, brought the choreographer single acts from three of his ballets. choreography and began to hone his skills international acclaim. The tale of a heroic Twelve years ago, Grigorovich was un- with stagings at a children’s school. His first slave rebellion in ancient Rome had previ- ceremoniously dismissed from his post at foray into the world of adult ballet occurred ously appeared at the Bolshoi a decade the Bolshoi. Under the theatre’s new man- at the Kirov in 1957, in the form of Sergei earlier in other choreography and without agement, headed by Grigorovich’s former Prokofiev’s “Stone Flower.” The success of notable success. Grigorovich revised the star dancer, Vladimir Vasilyev, most of his “Stone Flower,” both there and as produced scenario and filled it with a stunning array ballets were removed from the repertoire. by the Bolshoi two years later, led to a sec- of dance, ranging from bombastic crowd But with Vasilyev’s own dismissal from ond, entirely original creation at the Kirov scenes to intimate love episodes. “Sparta-

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 34 .performing arts performing arts.

cus” also proved a perfect vehicle to display love in a Soviet seaside town during the stage, some in , the rest in street the Bolshoi’s powerhouse of male danc- free-wheeling days of the so-called New clothes. One from the costumed group im- ers, above all Vladimir Vasilyev and Marius Economic Policy of the 1920s. mediately stepped forward and announced: Liepa, as well as the marvellously expressive Otherwise, the choreographer con- “There will be no performance.” Perhaps dancing of such female stars as Yekaterina cerned himself with bringing a fresh ap- sensing that the audience hadn’t gotten the Maksimova and Grigorovich’s wife, Natalya proach to the classics. First came “Swan message, he repeated the words in a louder Bessmertnova. Lake,” in a production that now, nearly voice. With that, the curtain fell, the house In “Spartacus” can be found evidence of four decades after it first appeared, prob- lights rose and pandemonium broke loose. practically everything that Grigorovich has ably ranks as the most popular of any on Most of the bewildered audience soon contributed to the world of Russian ballet. the Bolshoi stage; then an altogether new made for the exits. But staying behind for Like “Legend of Love,” it represented a sharp “Sleeping Beauty” that reached back to the many minutes to follow were knots of ballet turn away from the so-called “dramatic bal- original choreography of its 1890 St Peters- devotees, vigorously arguing the case for let” that had reigned supreme on the Soviet burg premiere, Prokofiev’s “Romeo and Ju- and against Grigorovich and, at times, even stage since the 1930s with its realistic depic- liet” and, in his final decade at the Bolshoi, threatening to turn violent. tion of “socialist” themes, its frequent disre- “Raymonda,” “Giselle,” “La Bayadere” and Peace, however, quickly returned to the gard for the strictures of classical ballet, and “The Corsair.” theatre. And Grigorovich had no trouble its replacement of real dancing with large As time went by, Grigorovich became finding employment elsewhere, both in helpings of pantomime. the ruler not only of the Bolshoi’s ballet other parts of Russia and abroad. Most no- Grigorovich insisted that everything be company, but, in effect, of the entire the- tably of all, he went on to create a first-rate danced and that every dance movement atre. And rule he did, in autocratic and ballet troupe of his own in the southern city either further the action or act to define a often iron-fisted fashion. With the com- of Krasnodar. character’s thoughts and state of mind. His ing of and the break-up of the At the Bolshoi, Grigorovich still remains dance vocabulary remained firmly classical, Soviet Union, many at the Bolshoi yearned a controversial figure. The ballet company’s though he nevertheless brought to it many for greater freedom. Dancers, in particular, current artistic director, Alexei Ratmansky, original and innovative touches. And, un- were keen to connect with styles of dance has repeatedly expressed a desire to wean like most of his latter-day counterparts, he from outside the Soviet and former-Soviet the company away from its attachment to was a master at handling large-scale scenes orbit and to have greater opportunity than the Grigorovich style and aesthetic. Nev- involving the corps de ballet. Grigorovich allowed to accept higher-pay- ertheless, Grigorovich’s ballets are almost In the years following “Spartacus,” ing engagements abroad. Eventually it certain to remain a part of the Bolshoi Grigorovich created three entirely original became apparent to Russia’s cultural au- repertoire for many seasons to come. It works: “Ivan the Terrible” (1975), set to mu- thorities that the Bolshoi needed new seems hard to imagine the theatre with- sic written by for Sergei management and new artistic direction. out “Spartacus,” which consistently plays Eisenstein’s Second World War-era film of The day of Grigorovich’s dismissal in to a packed house and remains one of the the same title; “Angara” (1976), a tale of the March 1995 ended dramatically in the first Bolshoi’s principal calling cards on foreign struggles and joys of a group of construc- and only strike ever to take place at the tours. Both “Legend of Love” and “The Age tion workers on the Siberian river of the Bolshoi. I vividly recall settling happily into of Gold” are wonderfully unique creations, ballet’s title; and “The Golden Age” (1982), my seat at the theatre in anticipation of my likely still to find a host of new admirers. As the first of Shostakovich’s three ballets, first encounter with Grigorovich’s “Romeo for the Grigorovich-choreographed clas- which had remained unperformed since and Juliet.” The house lights dimmed and sics, it will take some quite extraordinary its debut in Leningrad half a century earli- the conductor entered the pit. But before alternatives and some no doubt highly un- er, and which Grigorovich set to an entirely the orchestra could play a single note, the popular decisions on the part of the Bolshoi new story telling of greed, violence and curtain rose to reveal a horde of people on to replace any of them.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 35 .wine & dine Ambitious young Austrian chef talks to Valeria Cheshko

Thomas Koessler PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 36 wine & dine. Thomas, what’s your background? not care about their people. I saw it in many your menus? I come from Salzburg – a little town in the different places in many countries. Now I have I love Asian food. It is very interesting – with countryside with a population of 5,000 people, zero turnover; nobody is leaving because of extreme and very different flavors, which I like far from civilization. When I was fifteen, I en- bad working conditions. putting in my dishes. Although I have never rolled in a culinary school and then worked as an What are your impressions about working been to Asia, I cooked with Chinese and Malay- apprentice cook. I then went to America to gain with Russians? sians in Saudi Arabia. And I learned from them. some working experience in restaurants there. I My whole team is Russian. I found that Please tell me something more about was not getting paid, I was just doing it for the people here are very human. At first you think working at the seven-star Burj Al Arab in the experience. After that I went to Dubai and got that they are cold and not friendly; but once United Arab Emirates… work in a seven star hotel. I was very excited as it they open to you, they give you everything. I saw an enormous amount of different foods had just opened. I next went to England to work If they feel like they can talk to you, then it is – good to extraordinary. What was not good was at the Ickworth Park Hotel, and stayed there for OK. The most important thing is to be a car- how the people were valued, communicated three years. The countryside was very beautiful ing, nice person, if you know what I mean. with. It did not matter what you think, just the as I recall. Now it has been 2 years and 5 months The most difficult thing to achieve with my high quality of the end product. I loved working that I’ve been in Moscow. team here was to make the people taste the with so many nationalities, though – 54! I saw Why Moscow? dish they had prepared. Really, it has been the that I could get along with everybody, which Coming from Austria, like all young cooks, greatest challenge to explain that you must very seldom happens. But I am not praising the I wanted to gain experience in countries like taste the dish every time. It is difficult not to hotel as the best hotel in the world, because of and France. Then I saw the U.S. and then get frustrated sometimes. how they treat their people. Saudi Arabia. When going to another country, How did you discover an interest in cooking? You have achieved three rosettes for the I want to get to know a different culture, learn You can say I found my profession by ac- restaurant at the Ickworth Hotel in England. a new language. After England I received a job cident. When I was young, I never had any in- How? offer from the U.S. But North America was not terest in cooking. I wanted to be an architect Three rosettes achieved from zero rosettes... that exciting to me – I knew it already. or a dentist. I had a talent in sculpturing, and made possible by working 17 hours a day. Once I was talking to a friend of mine, and when I was fifteen I got a job that started one Never a day off. People committed every day he said to me that Moscow was also looking year later. So I was thinking about what to do in to work to a high standard. That’s how. Now I for executive chefs. My first response was: “In the meantime. A friend of mine suggested that think that working so much time to achieve North America?” to which he said, “No, in Rus- I could cook for a year – getting paid and being this honor was not worth it. There are many sia!” I had never thought about it before, and I fed at the same time. So I called up a hotel, and restaurants with no rosettes and no Michelin made my decision dependent on coming here they took me as a cook apprentice. The first 6 stars that cook the same food. Michelin stars, and seeing it first. I put the job offer from the months were very difficult.I did not even know rosettes do not matter. Enjoyment matters. U.S. on hold and in the summer of 2004 I came some of the vegetables. Then I started liking it. Do you have a lot of free time? to Moscow for an interview. And I also found that I had some talent. When I do not have any free time. But if it is pos- What convinced you? the year came to an end, I decided to stay. I love sible I like to go out at night. I love driving What the hotel offered me. I felt the challenge what I am doing now, and would not change it sports-cars, watching movies – you forget for me to come here; that I could improve things for anything. I wish that everybody would find work then. I do no sports though – no time. and be of value. I saw that I could teach people their profession by chance. You like sports cars… Do they have anything something new and make them advance. Why do you think you are a good chef? in common with cooking? What were your impressions about the city? I love to eat and can do it all day. I love They have nothing in common. You know, I was simultaneously surprised about the everything – every single dish and cuisine. when you are a chef you work in a very loud city and scared. I am not someone who likes Another important thing I think is that I love environment under great pressure the whole cities and crowds, but I changed my mind in working with people. I care about them and day. You need something extreme to calm Moscow. There are so many opportunities here when one feels that way your people stay lon- down. I like nice things – nice food, nice cars… – to go out, to eat in other places, to have fun. ger. I never compromise on anything. If some- I do not like half-nice sports cars; they have to What do you think about Moscow now? thing is not good, I say it. But I also say why it is be the best or nothing. I still think that the city has a lot to offer not good and show how to do it. What are your favorite foods? culturally. You can do many things. Where I Where does the inspiration for creating a I like desserts the most. My absolutely fa- grew up everything is closed by 9 pm Mon- dish come from? vorite food is ice-cream. It is not easy to make day through Friday and sometimes the whole First of all, there are different levels of res- a good one. I also like Asian food very much weekend. Of course, like all foreigners, I dislike taurants – brasseries, fine dining, lobby bars, etc. – Thai, Chinese, Japanese. I like the way they the traffic, crowds, pollution, and noise. Now One has to understand what people at each of cook it; that so many fresh products are pre- I know the people, I understand them, and these places want. The inspiration itself comes pared in such a short time. It is so good for the I have learned to get along with them. I like from what I like myself, my past experiences and food and it is so much faster than with Euro- knowing my way around. the chefs I admire. Food has to be fresh and taste pean food. What was the greatest challenge for you good – this is the most important. Do you have any plans for the future? here? Are the colors important? A couple of years ago I had plans. But the The greatest challenge was to get people For me colors do not matter. What matters plans never worked out. Now I do not have on my side and get them to do what I wanted. is a technique of preparation and knowing any plans. I live for the moment. Maybe you To achieve that, they have to see what you can how to handle a product. Sometimes dishes meet somebody and you stay longer, or go do and respect you. They have to feel that I do not look that great on the menu, but the somewhere else together. At the moment I am here for them, not for me. It is very impor- taste is unbelievable. I want people to come like it here; I like the hotel I am working at. I tant that they feel that you respect them too. back because they love the food. will stay a bit longer. There are still things that I learned from bad examples. Many chefs do Where does the Asian touch come from in I can and will improve.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 37 .wine & dine

…royal taste of wine

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THE MAJOR ADVANTAGES Praline Cream. OF PALAIS ROYAL: Praline Paste 20g, Gelatin 2 leaves (soaked in cold water till soft) Flexible and competitive pricing Whipping cream 200g (whipped stiff), Milk 100g, Eggs 3, Sugar 40g policy Guarantee of proper Mix milk, eggs and sugar together in a pan over the stove making the mixture soft and storeage and quality when it is hot add the softened gelatin and place away from the heat. When the mixture Big selection of rare wine vintages is cool add the whipping cream, and praline paste to taste. If you want to add more sugar, Bordeaux wines un primer add icing sugar (confectionary sugar). WHY SERIOUS PEOPLE DO APPLY Place the cream on the biscuit and refrigerate until the cream sets. TO PALAIS ROYAL: For the Sauce – Individual approach to every Juice from 2 Lemons, 2 eggs, 50g sugar, 20g butter customer Professional Mix together in a pan on the stove in a double boiler and whip with a whisk until thick- composition of ened. private collections Full service package for a wine cellar creation Decoration ( Phyllo Pastry ) Exclusive packaging for gifts Simply buy some Phylo (strudel pastry) in a shop and defrost. Order execution Place the Phylo in a baking tray and brush with some melted butter with a brush, squeez- within 24 hourse ing a bit of lemon on it and some honey. Bake in a preheated oven for 2-3 min at 180 degrees C. 125047, Moscow, Once it is cold it will be crisp and you can break it into desired forms and stick it into the 1st Tverskaya Yamskaya, 36-31 lemon tart as the photo shows. 123007, Moscow, 2d Horoshevskiy, 7-1 A Decorate the plate with some fresh berries. Tel./Fax: (+7495) 940 2496, 233 0757 You also may use Raspberry sauce on the plate for more color.

www.palaisroyal.ru, Raspberry Sauce [email protected] Fresh Raspberries 1 Cup, Sugar 50g, Water 1/2 Cup Mob.: (+7985) 776 10 41 Mix all together in a pan, bring to a boil, cool and blend in a mixer and strain through a (the code is incorrect sieve to remove the raspberry seeds. must be 985 I suppose)

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 38 wine & dine. arrived late, and our review crew was already at work on double portions of I several of Nedalny Vostok’s salads. Over their shoulders was a large Kamchatka crab pondering its fate from the nearby designer aquarium with his lobster playmates. Not Far East is yet another creation of Arkady Novikov, the Sir Terence Conran of Moscow. Not satisfied with just one Asian fusion res- taurant for this month’s issue, we were now in this huge open, modern hall with its large rectangular, stainless and glass kitchen, sous-chefs hard at work on all sides. A com- fortable bar lies to the left of the entrance and the path to the restrooms to the right leads through a dark, quiet chill-out area. The design is classy, with pyramids of lemons and limes stacked around the kitchen, and large half barrels at the en- trance, each filled with raw foods –ginger root in one, dried red pepper in another, and whole bay leaf in a third. Glass shelves, each stacked with its own object theme – Soviet and Ikea type glass vases on one, bottles of herbed oil on another – serve as partitions. I managed to snatch the last of the salads. The Beetroot, Semi-dried Tomato, Crumbled Goat Cheese, Peach Salad with Hazelnut Dressing (850r) consisted of small diced beets, Arugula, a marinated pear, a small stewed tomato, cheese that could be mistaken for Philadelphia, and a few hazelnuts. Though very, very tasty, at the equivalent of $33, without a piece of meat or fish, it was clear that the prices at Not By Charles W. Borden Far East are breathtaking even by Moscow standards. The Asian Caesar Salad (650r) Novikov’s was a fusion which appeared good Caesar (though the dressing was not) with very fresh tuna and salmon sashimi. The last latest creation salad was a Prawn, Lobster, and Dried Tuna Salad (1350r) with red wine and poached apple vinaigrette. stimulates palate The first appetizer, Grilled Crab with Bean Crab (1950r), Hot Pot of Spiced Mus- Grant Dodd, a regular at the Passport wine Wasabi Mayo-Cucumber Salad and Ponzo sels with Crispy Russian Sausage (750r), Bar- tastings. We finished by sharing a taste of Sauce (1050r), consisted of several crab leg beque Australian Sirloin with Tomato Confit two of Not Far East’s designer cocktails. sections with half the shell peeled away pro- and Salsa Criolla (1100r), Sugar Crusted Black To compare with Nabi, our other Asian viding easy access to the meat. Next came Cod Fillet with Ponzu Sauce (1250r) and Mi- fusion review this month, Nabi is subdued, Sichuan Spiced Scallops (600r) served over rin Scorched Salmon with Jalapeno Salsa, peaceful and wood; Not Far East is grand, a cauliflower puree, with grilled sausage, Asparagus and Garden Greens (1150r). The bright and aluminum. The Nabi menu is chili jam and aioli, very nicely done, and sirloin was beautiful, melt-in-your-mouth Spartan, while Not Far East’s is huge; but Seared Foie Gras, Lamb Tongue and Pickled and the black cod sweet and soft, perfectly both have excellent service and prices to Persimmon (850r). prepared. The two crab dishes were large match their ambitions to be the newest and Looking over the menu, I found interest- bowls of substantial crab leg sections with best for Moscow’s elitny crowd. I would give ing Asian/Russian fusion sections, Pelmini apparently traditional sauces. Not Far East the edge on the food, and Nabi and Kasha, which we did not sample. These The table had finished glasses of Tasca the edge on atmosphere; Nabi the place for include a Pelmini with Sea Scallops (650r) d’Amerita Nero d’Avola (600r per glass) be- a romantic date or business meeting, and and Buckwheat with Duck Confit (650r). fore I arrived and also a Napanook Dominus Not Far East for a dinner party. Already full, we were already hoping Estate (6200r). However, I did manage to that the last dish had been served when thoroughly enjoy one of our Passport favor- Nedalny Vostok (Not Far East) the main courses arrived. These were again ites, Dalwhinnie Moonambel Shiraz (5500r), Tverskoy Bulvar 15 double portions of Chili Crab (1950r), Black imported to Russia by Australian golf pro Tel: 694-0641, 694-0154

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 39 .wine & dine wine & dine. Asian Fusion

Match By Charles Borden his month we ventured back to Asia to re-review the wines that go with Tthese popular foods, although Asian food and good wines are difficult to marry. The range of tastes and aromas of Asian food overpower some wines and spar with oth- ers. Our setting was Nabi, the hot new Asian fusion restaurant and the subject of this month’s restaurant review. Though the food selection is not large at Nabi, it is broad, cov- ering Japanese, Thai, Indian and others. Our wines this month were selected by Dmitry Pinski of DP Trade, the owner of some of the better wine boutiques in Mos- cow such as Decanter, Magnum and Vinum. vdokimova and Joyn Ortega For this tasting, expensive wines were nei- ther necessary nor desirable; the tannins of a heavy red or an oaky white don’t work

well with Asian. For Asian food, it’s easier Ambassador Tai, Yulia E

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 40 .wine & dine wine & dine. to work with white wines such as the tradi- tional spicy food match, Gewurztraminer, or a floral or fruity light Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. A light frizzy wine works well with dishes such as fried rice or noodles. In this tasting, our selection of countries was as broad as Nabi’s menu. We included a number of firsts for the Passport wine se- ries, including two roses, and a wine from Slovakia and another from Israel. We also changed our method by having small serv- ings of various Nabi dishes matched with each wine. At the last minute, our long time wine companion, Julia Evdikimova, showed up with a few additional wines for us to add to the tasting. Though they were not on our rating sheets, several of our team gave them very high marks; a 5 from practically every- one. These were Australian: Shiraz Prestige 1999 ($86/2285r) from Haan of Barossa Valley and Grand Merlot ($124/3310r) from James Irvine from Eden Valley. Dmitry Pinsky provided us with his own commentary on each of the wines on our list. His words provide a great primer for those looking to select a wine for an Asian meal. With most wines, we also had a Nabi food match to match.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 41 .wine & dine wine & dine. White Wines Rose Wines Red Wines Dopff au Moulin, Gewurztraminer de Domaine Clarence Dillon, Claren- Domaine Clarence Dillon, Claren- Riquewihr (Alsace, France) 2003 delle Rose (Bordeaux, France) 2005 delle Rouge (Bordeaux, France) 2003 Fruity aromatic Gewurztraminers proved a An attempt to make a “Claret” wine, popu- A red, light-bodied Bordeaux, made with good match with the Asian food. lar in former times in Bordeaux. With in- care. Not tannic – which helps it to go along Wasabi Shrimp – fantastic, this is Nabi’s tense color and a mild palette. Will not spoil with spicy food. best! a spicy food. Black Cod in Soya-Honey Sauce Domaine Clarence Dillon, Claren- Peking Duck. Rene Rostaing, Les Lezards Rouge delle Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2004 Chateau la Tour de l’Eveque, “Petal (Rhone, France) 2002 A classical white Bordeaux mixture of Sauvi- de Rose” (Provence, France) 2005 A Syrah from one of the top winemakers gnon Blanc and Semillon. A nice elegant wine A famous rose wine from Provence, widely of the region. Fruity and elegant. Fantastic to accompany hot Asian food. available in top restaurants of the region. A with Asian specialties. Scallops Teriyaki. good match with Asian food, as will most of Marbled Beef Nicolas Joly, Savennieres “Le Vieux the rose wines. Golan Heights Winery, Gamla Caber- Clos” (Loire, France) 2004 Seafood in Soya Sauce. net Sauvignon (Israel) 2002 A Chenin Blanc from the “Chief of the Tribe” An exotic Cabernet Sauvignon from Israel of bio-dynamic winemakers. A perfect match with enough character to survive any exotic with Asian food. The wine improves in an open food. bottle for three to four days thus making it an My favorite of the whites was the Chenin ideal pouring wine for restaurants. Blanc from Nicolas Joly of the Loire who Chicken Teriyaki. produces exclusively biodynamic wines. Pascal Jolivet, “Attitude” Sauvignon Biodynamic agriculture is a holistic, natu- Blanc (Loire, France) 2005 ral approach, first promoted by Rudolph A varietal wine from the Loire Valley. Its acidity Steiner in the 1920s. I am partial to such is lighter than in the usual wines of the region, organic ventures. From the reds, I liked the while minerality is attractively high. Syrah from Rene Rostaing, but then again, Dim Sum with Crab. Syrah is my favorite red grape, whether Egon Muller, Chateau Bela Riesling you call it Syrah or Shiraz. (Slovakia) 2003 A Slovakian Riesling from the No.1 German winemaker – Egon Muller. Acidic enough, slightly sweet, very balanced – as if specially mastered for Asian food. Masciarelli, Villa Gemma Bianco (Abruzzo, Italy) 2005 A white blend of local grape varieties from the best winemaker of Abruzzo – Masciarelli.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 42 .wine & dine wine & dine.

Guests John Ortega, Publisher, Passport Magazine Charles Borden, Director, Meridian Capital Jan Herre, General Manager, Zara Russia Michael Tay, Ambassador of Singapore accompanied by his wife Meena Mylvaganam Tay, Editor of book on Asian foods wine matching Dmitri Pinski, Owner, DP Trade Ryan Chilcote, Correspondent, CNN Moscow, and wife Nadya Arian Alikhani, President, Lensmaster Jeff Combs, President, NCI Julia Evdikimova, Palais Royal Dan Vigdor, President, AutoLocator

Ortega Easy Rating System I love this wine! 5 pts. I really like this wine! 4 pts. This wine is good! 3 pts. This wine is not that good! 2 pts. I don’t really care for this wine! 1 pt.

DP Trade Dmitry Pinski, owner of DP Trade, an im- porter of fine wines and exclusive repre- sentative of Riedel glassware, selected and provided the wines for this wine tasting. DP Trade has a number of fine wine boutiques in Moscow:

Decanter Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 30, Tel: 238-3808 Vinoteka Ul. Varvarka 3, Tel.: 298-0570 Magnum Kutuzovski Prospekt 24, Tel.: 937-6515 Magnum Ul. Plyuschika 20, Tel.: 775-06-74, 970-1697 Vinum Prechetinka 40/2, Tel.: 775-2305

Producer, Wine, Region, Year Price Price Rating Rubles USD White Wines Dopff au Moulin, Gewurztraminer de Riquewihr (Alsace, France) 2003 1614 61.5 3.3 Domaine Clarence Dillon, Clarendelle Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2004 1771 67.5 3.4 Nicolas Joly, Savennieres “Le Vieux Clos” (Loire, France) 2004 1929 73.5 3.5 Pascal Jolivet, “Attitude” Sauvignon Blanc (Loire, France) 2005 1181 45 3.4 Egon Muller, Chateau Bela Riesling (Slovakia) 2003 1614 61.5 3.1 Masciarelli, Villa Gemma Bianco (Abruzzo, Italy) 2005 1417 54 3.8 Rose Wines Domaine Clarence Dillon, Clarendelle Rose (Bordeaux, France) 2005 1771 67.5 3.2 Chateau la Tour de l’Eveque, “Petal de Rose” (Provence, France) 2005 1338 51 3.1 Red Wines Domaine Clarence Dillon, Clarendelle Rouge (Bordeaux, France) 2003 1771 67.5 3.5 Rene Rostaing, Les Lezards Rouge (Rhone, France) 2002 1535 58.5 3.3 Golan Heights Winery, Gamla Cabernet Sauvignon (Israel 2002 1692 64.5 2.7

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 43 .wine & dine community. abi is the latest entry in the “Where the Elite Meet to Eat” sweepstakes Ntaking place between a few Mos- cow promoters, with Novikov far in the lead. Nabi, billed as Asian Fusion, is from Kirill Gusev, the developer of Oblomov, FISH and Pavilion restaurants. Nabi’s sparse two-page menu has headings that include Salads, Soups, Rolls, Dim Sum, Curry, Wok, Thai Pan, and Hot Dishes. We were told that the chefs were Chinese and Russian (Pavel Petukhov and Wang Chuan Bao). Nabi is set back off Maly Afanasyevs- ki Pereulok, just off Novy Arbat and Gogelevsky Bulvar. At the entry, a bowl of apples, two bronze elephants, and vases of white lilies greet the guests along with the attentive staff. With leather chairs and sim- ple settings, Nabi has a quiet dignity. Gusev has created a design that allows each table its quiet spot, with no intrusion from your neighbors. That is, if you ignore Nabi’s ever present selection of eye candy; always a few tables of two or three babes dressed to the nines. In any case, Nabi provides a generally pleasant setting for a romantic dinner or a serious business meeting. John arrived a little late after he was stopped by the GAI when he tried to sneak across the first few hundred meters of Maly Afanasyevskiy directly from Gogolevsky Bulvar against the one-way sign. He finally snatched his documents back and headed to the restaurant saying; “Get me on the way out, I’ll feel better after a glass or two of wine.” We were at a table of four and John decided to order the same array of “appetiz- ers” that he ordered a few days, before and Nabi was able to produce the waitress who Charles W. Borden remembered the order. There is no Appe- tizer heading on the menu; it just happens that many of the menu items including sal- ads seem like appetizer servings. The Shrimp in Sweet and Sour Sauce (650r) was a favorite, with the shrimp Asian Fusion just right and not overly coated with the (600r). I’m not big on dim sum and this serv- tender and somewhat stringy and tough, bright red sweet and tangy sauce. The ing did nothing to change my mind. Next served with a bowl of plain basmati rice. Af- Leaf Salad with Fillet of Lamb Pickled with came the Fried Rice with “Cracklings” (700r) ter that, despite the old adage that “there is Aromatic Herbs (600r) consisted of arugo- and Egg Noodles with Shrimp (650r). Nei- always room for dessert,” we were finished. la with small, soft, flavorful thin disks of ther were memorable and the Egg Noodles Nabi has a decent wine selection with lamb. The Salad with Warm Scallop (750r) on the salty side. Cracklings are small pieces wines by the glass ranging from a nice Si- was served with three large scallops and of thoroughly fried salo (fat). leni (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc at 350 a side arugula salad with large gratings of The Peking Duck (800r) was picture rubles. There are wines by the bottle start- Parmigiano. The Tartar of Tuna and Avo- perfect, a nicely served roasted to a deep ing at 1750 rubles and a decent selection in cado with Ginger Lime Sauce (500r) was brown, duck breast, sliced with pencil thin the low 2000 rubles. We cleaned out Nabi’s one of the best offerings; cubes of very cucumber and leek and served with the stock of the Tuscany Bolgheri DOC Il Brucia- fresh tuna with a light lime ginger sauce traditional small, flat rice pancakes. We fin- to from Tenuta Guado al Tasso 2002 (2170r). with sesame seeds. ished with a very tasty and tender Black By the time we left, the GAI were no longer Another salad was Lotus, Chestnuts, Cod in Soya-Honey Sauce, laid on seaweed at their post. Mushrooms “Syangu” with Asparagus in (1400r) and Kamchatka Crab Tentacles in Oyster Sauce (450r), crispy and lightly coat- Soya Pepper Sauce (1100r), four substantial, NABI ed with the sauce. Nabi has a small dim sum thick lengths of what must have been a very Maly Afanasyevskiy Pereulok 4 collection. We tried the NABI assortment huge crab. This was crab, but not all that 291-4060

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 44 community. t Andrew’s Anglican Church is once again presenting a special S program of Lenten, Holy Week and Easter festivities. This year the Lenten Renewal and Holy Week Pro- gram is themed: The “Price of Love – the Cross in Relation to Ourselves, Our families and Our Community.” Special guests will be joining St Andrew’s Chaplain and Archbishop of Canterbury’s Representative to the Or- thodox Church in Russia, The Rev. Dr. Canon Simon Stephens. The additional speakers will be in Moscow for Holy Week and they will include Brother Co- lin Wilfred, Anglican Franciscan Monk from Canterbury England and the Right Reverend Dr. Geoffrey Rowell, Diocesan Bishop in Europe and three Seminar- ians from Oxford University. They will be preaching on Palm Sunday, Maundy Thursday, Good Friday, Holy Saturday and Easter Sunday. During Holy Week there will also be Lunchtime Concerts with Speakers on Monday April 2th through Maundy Thursday April 5th. Previous to Holy Week, St Andrew’s will be hosting 2 lunches with special talks on Saturday, March 3rd and Satur- day March 24th from 10 to 14:00 at the Church. Topics: “The Cross in Church History” on March 3rd and “The Cross in Russia” on March 24th. And on Sat- urday March 10th there is Pilgrimage planned to Valdimir-Suzdal, Rostov the Great. Classical Music concerts will be held every Thursday evening at 19:30 in the Sanctuary during Lenten with imon, together with a Russian Orthodox priest, releasing a white dove. concerts moving to 12:30 during Holy By Linda Lippner

Week. Father S Please consult the Church’s website at: www.standrewsmoscow.org, email: [email protected] or Tel/Fax: +7 495 629 0990 for program LENTEN FESTIVAL details including dates, times, updates of events and contact information, es- pecially if you would like to join the Pil- AT ST ANDREW’S Anglican Church grimage to Valdimir-Suzdal. entry, England completed in 1961. A comprising of members of over a dozen St Andrew’s Moscow is one of 250 cross which was made from medieval nationalities, is a protected Moscow Anglican Church congregations in 36 nails found in the burnt ruins of the Historic Monument as Russia’s only ex- countries that comprise the Anglican cathedral bombed to total destruction ample of English Gothic Church archi- Diocese in Europe. A most interest- during World War II became a symbol tecture. Built in 1882-84, it is once more ing and inspiring honor came to St An- of the British Midland city’s call for in- serving the English speaking commu- drew’s Moscow in 2002 when it joined ternational peace and reconciliation nity of Anglicans and other denomina- the International Coventry Cross of throughout the world. St Andrew’s, tions, especially during major holy feast Nails Community which encircles the situated in Europe’s largest capital city, days and holidays. During Soviet times globe. The symbol of the Community is now a member of this honored group the church building was used as a girl’s is the Cross of Nails, a replica which has of churches. hostel, offices for foreign delegations been placed permanently upon the al- Anglican worship in Moscow dates and the recording studio for Melodiya ter of St Andrew’s. The origins of the from 1553 when Tsar Ivan the Terrible records, the premier state recording Coventry Cross of Nails Community, permitted the first non-Orthodox ser- company. Worship was reinstated on 14 was the destruction and eventual res- vices in Russia. St Andrew’s Moscow July 1991 and restoration of the church toration of Coventry Cathedral in Cov- which houses the Anglican community began in earnest in 1999.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 45 46 Cost of dinner for one without drinks • – to $15 • – $15-30 • – $30-50 • – $50-100 • – over $100 – English-language menu • – Business lunch • – Reservations recommended • – Kids menu • – Delivery • – Wi-Fi wine & dine. tion of French and and French of tion ings. ings. Georgian dishes. dishes. Georgian 30, Tsvetnoy Bulvar, 694-23-03 Bulvar, 30, Tsvetnoy 24 hours handle. can you fun the All Blea 11 Alley, 946-1733 Bega, Hotel Begovaya floor 8th surround minimalist in restaurant Japanese Modern Be bar). (sports I S Ba Ul., Bldg.1, 299-4211 Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya 2/30 Noon-Midnight beer. food, Bavarian Ba Bldg.1, Prospekt, 214-174910 Leningradsky Mon-Fri broadcasts. sports live fillet, ostrich and Kangaroo A Ul., Bldg.1, Gruzinskaya 255 9887 57 Bolshaya At Ul. 210-3549 79 Butyrskaya Noon-midnight schoolgirls. Japanese like dress es Waitress cartoons. Japanese with covered are bles ta and walls The theme. cartoon and animation nese S An Per. 625-4954/38 2 Frolov Noon-midnight inexpensive. Not options. seafood ing interest including menu, a sophisticated and interior I A 2a255-1125 Ul. 1905 Goda, S Ant Per., Karetny 299-3696 6 Bolshoy Noon-midnight seafood. and pastas I Ang 956-4843, Centre), Trade City Global Ul., (inside 14 Kirovogradskaya Val, 912-3621/15,59 Ul. Zemlyanoi Ul., 2/1250-9525, 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya 24 hours weekends. on room Children’s more. and breakfast & eggs bacon steaks, Hamburgers, Am Ul., 911-0523 7 Marksistskaya French, Amf Ul. 736-9131/32 Bronnaya 8/1 Malaya Noon-Midnight patio. a summer offers floor French, of a mix with menu a fine-dining and interior room dining a classical has also floor second the prices, higher Besides level. second the on found are than prices moderate more and cuisines of variety a from menu a mixed interior, a designer with a cafe holds floor first the mansion, a three-floor Occupying A Per., 209-7914 3 Blagoveschensky diner Noon-last menu. and style own Adr 11 I Acc Per., 292-9649 2 Kamergersky 11.00-midnight. oven a wood in prepared pizza enjoy to place Great I Ac E from Open enjoy and broadcasts sport Watch E n the same building as the Kalyagina theatre. theatre. Kalyagina the as building same n the nnovative ndian food. Noon-22.45 (restaurant), (restaurant), Noon-22.45 food. ndian talian food with pan- with food talian bar. sushi plus food talian clectic fusion menu. menu. fusion clectic xquisite dining. Four seating areas, each with its its with each areas, seating Four dining. xquisite P ushi bar with, as the name would suggest, a Japa suggest, would name the as with, bar ushi us tylishly modern yet warm restaurant. Wide selec Wide restaurant. warm yet modern tylishly ports bar with huge video screen and decent decent and screen video huge with bar ports is .00–last diner. diner. .00–last las Ca las Tsvetnoy Bulvar Tsvetnoy Dinamo Begovaya, Tverskaya Mayakovskaya Belorusskaya Belorusskaya Dmitrovskaya Prudy Chistiye Bulvar Tsvetnoi Yuzhnaya Taganskaya Mayakovskaya Taganskaya Pushkinskaya Mayakovskaya Kultury Park Tverskaya g a v n i U r e t m a To e a d tr ia o eli a litsa litsa i

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Polyanka Barrikadnaya Profsoyuznaya n .00-midnight. .00- m r pscaleJapanese eatery. ophisticated,traditional clecticmenu incasual a atmosphere. Trendy, young uropeanfavorites, and more. hours 24 r ivemusic from U Fri- Modern S E Over40 Chinese dishes prepared by GreatKremlin view. Noon- Family-oriented 11 12/1 Ul. Ostozhenka,Ul. 12/1 202-0445 ClassicGeorgian cuisine with terrific Georgian wine. L Ge 27 Ul. Petrovka,Ul. 27 937-4544 Gale Popularwith high-end crowd. Menu includes sushi, E 1 Ul. Solyanka,Ul. 1 628-5539 withhigh ceilings and large windows, this cafe is well- suitedto sipping coffee while watching the world walk by. F Centrallylocated, two-story cafe located in a downtownhistorical building. The totalTheCuban experience. StariArbat, 241-03-92 36, Flo 4/3 Strasnoi4/3 Bulvar, Building 209-2844 3, cocktails, Decoratedwith seaside motifs, the name means filletand this small one-room restaurant does, as you wouldexpect, serve fish fillets among other seafood dishes. File 7, 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya (bou 1st 978-8083/74 Ul., 7, tique/restaurant) AcclaimedFrench gourmet delicatessen, wine departmentand more. Fau 9 Bolshoi Tolmachevsky Per., 937-3750, 953-6595 Bolshoi 9 Tolmachevsky 937-3750, Per., Dz 21/13 Malaya Bronnaya 21/13 290-3848 Ul., Do Cozycafe with good a selection of desserts. Noon- 3/2 1st Smolensky 1st 3/2 241-6217 Per., setting.Purchasable artwork on the walls. 11 Dol 4 Novoslobodskaya 4 973-1234/12 Ul., Reputedlythe most authentic Chinese restaurant intown, with an extensive menu ranging from the exotic(ears, offal and trotters) to the more usual meatand noodle dishes. D Moscow’sbest steakhouse. Noon-Midnight 30Tsvetnoy Bulvar, 694-0145 Dou Noon-lastguest Smolenskaya 3 Ploschad, 937-8425 Di chefs,but limited a and disappointing dim sum menu. 24 Ul. BolshayaUl. 24 Lubyanka, 923-0848 crowd.hours 24 Dis 6/1 Kadyshevskaya 6/1 238-6401 Nab., Do Noon-midnight Spiridonovka,Ul. 25/20 746-6964 offeran exact copy of the menu available in its two sistereateries. Best known for its seafood dishes. whichhas popular branches in and New York, hasopened in Moscow. The restaurant is said to DaGia Theupmarket international DaCi 48 Cost of dinner for one without drinks • – to $15 • – $15-30 • – $30-50 • – $50-100 • – over $100 – English-language menu • – Business lunch • – Reservations recommended • – Kids menu • – Delivery • – Wi-Fi wine & dine. 17 Ul., 229-4165 Tverskaya 6.00-5.00 sorbet. pineapple carpaccio, Ni Per., 202-76701/4244-0655, 24 hours, Smolensky programs show and DJ’s pasta. of choice specialties, Mexican menu, Na 625-7625 Bulvar, 12A Chistoprudny diner last Noon cellar. wine 5,000-bottle touches. Nos Ul., Yamskaya 251-1116/786822 1st Tverskaya Noon-midnight menu. wine D Moi Nab.,8, 246-3240 Bldg. 12 Savvinskaya Noon-midnight environment. pleasant in cooking French Home-style Maiso Per., 229-5702 Bldg.2, 12 Stoleshnikov Mos 251-2282 Zastavy, Tverskoi 52/2 Ploschad Mos Ul., 921-3278 38 Myasnitskaya 24 hours interior. Hermitage-like century Mil 775-2601 Mira, 26/1 Prospekt 5.00-midnight L food. Georgian and Andalusian Hungarian, Thai, Ma 737-04942 Ul. Schipok, Mo 253-6505 17 Ul. Klimashkina, quality best with flavoured style and elegance Delightful Ma Ul., 255-5593 Gruzinskaya 62 Bolshaya Noon-midnight Ma 921-9844 2/1 Ul. Pokrovka, Noon-23.00 Ma Pl., 241-3132/6729,9/1 Smolenskaya 244-7387 S waiters. dancing and music Folk Fridays. on beer in marinated lamb baked Whole menu. Bulgarian Full Me Ul., 243-2133 12a B. Dorogomilovskaya standard. and price average of cuisine Japanese time this latest, Novikov’s Arkady L Ul., 725-6476, 24/27 Sadovaya-Samotechnaya Bldg.1, Ploschad, 937-0532,2 Paveletskaya L 933-7713/1425 Nikolskaya, L E Between S dishes. fish and risotto pasta, of variety friendly and Relaxed U Central I Modern hall. dining Russian a lavish in cuisine French classic serving restaurant cozy Relaxed, spicy for spot A favourite 9.00- with cooking French Homely 9.00– balcony. open-air the from Moscow E deal for coffee and desserts. desserts. and coffee for deal ive music. Noon-midnight weekdays, weekdays, Noon-midnight music. ive i e Ga o uropean favorites by by favorites uropean of view Great emphasis. French with uropean un-Thur noon- un-Thur ophisticated French with with French ophisticated pmarket, Mediterranean food. 24 hrs food. Mediterranean pmarket, tt ght ft Tverskaya Prudy Chistiye Mayakovskaya Tverskaya Belorusskaya Prudy Chistiye Mira Prospekt Belorusskaya Barrikadnaya Kitai-Gorod Kievskaya Bulvar Tsvetnoi Paveletskaya Tverskaya S S U S L kh np c d r h L k ubyanka le Ja le t molenskaya molenskaya molenskaya litsa litsa

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Kropotkinskaya Tsvetnoi Bulvar Okhotny Ryad Polyanka Tsvetnoi Bulvar p nk f ley howssporting matches onlarge a screen. a y uli ivemusic. Noon-2.00. talianprovinces. Vegetarian menu available. Charming elegant 3 dining rooms, Goodselection of Noon-23.00 Kotelnicheskaya 1/15 915-2610 234-3223, Nab., Bright,eclectic decor with cuisine from different I Tu 7 Ul. Gasheka, 797-4333 U Fusion from a French chef whose credo is “Food is art”. S Noon-midnight Ul.Varvarka 6 (inside Rossiya 298-5707/5374 Hotel), To Creativesetting with sophisticated Japanese food. Ti beermaker’s A industrial-style restaurant. L 32 Ul. Ostozhenka,Ul. 32 290-2897/6139 Ti Georgianfood in Tbilisi townhouse. Noon-midnight 24 hours. 24 nibblesand good a range of affordable wines. S moreserious restaurants. Thetapas bar offers decent a range of inexpensive Ta Three-level featurestapas a while bar, the second and third are Noon-midnight. S Greekfood intavern a setting. 42/2BolshayaUl. Polyanka, 238-2888 Noon-Midnight S secondfloor. Noon-last diner Sadovaya-Samotechnaya 16/2 209-7770 Ul., S .community community. Postcard from Belarus Toys By Anne Coombes Animal Magic for In a land of ancient customs, animals, as you might expect, play an important role in Russian local superstitions. Animal in- Nos- tuition has long been recognised. Ancient Belarusians chose to build their homes where poultry and cattle chose to sleep. It was thought that creatures of nature were able to see where de- talgia mons and evil spirits were lurking and they selected their rest- ing places avoiding these places. All cats are thought to have magical influence, but black cats are especially potent. If you have a cold, it’s a good idea to per- suade a cat to sit on your lap and this will soon cure your ailment. Linda Lippner Similarly, if you have a sore leg you should place your feline friend he 2007 holiday season has come and gone and so have on the afflicted area. I t’s no wonder that cats are the pet of choice two holiday exhibits, which registered a particular nos- for witches. If you meet a cat on the street, it’s important to pay Ttalgic impact on local Muscovites and expats. And there attention to the direction in which the cat is walking. If it crosses may be more of these kinds of exhibits as Russians reflect with your path it is an unlucky occurrence and you should take seven increasing psychological comfort on their Soviet past. The ex- steps backwards, touch one of your buttons, turn your hat around hibits were displays of holiday Soviet-era decorations (at the or spit three times over your left shoulder before returning home Mega Malls) and a huge display of mostly Soviet-era toys, holi- or retracing your steps. However, if it’s walking towards you all is day decorations and playtime activities, such as board games well with the world. Cat foresight and vanity are recognised in the and toy trucks, along with spaceships and toy military para- saying that if your cat is cleaning itself, a visitor is sure to come phernalia, which was at the Museum of Decorative Arts. knocking at your door. My afternoon at the Museum exhibit was an incredible look For the brave of heart, a sore throat can be cured by putting at a child’s world that I didn’t know existed. Not that I couldn’t a frog in your mouth for a few minutes. The frog’s own croak is imagine it existing, since all cultures create playthings for their enhanced while yours disappears. If this sounds beyond the pale, children. I just didn’t equate Soviet life with the sheer number you can try breathing heavily on the frog for ten minutes; less ef- and variety of objects available to the proletariat child, if their par- fective, but sparing you any unpleasant aftertaste. ents or schools were prosperous enough to invest in exclusively Spiders in particular are omens of good fortune since their Soviet made items of holiday cheer (Yoelke party decorations, webs are thought to absorb negative influences. Traditionally, costumes and masks), or toys. I was overcoming my own preju- people would weave ‘toy’ spiders from straw and hang them dice since I stupidly thought that Soviet times promoted work in their homes. These could be placed above a baby's cradle to and little play. But I watched the many older visitors at the exhib- protect the infant from evil spirits or were held over the heads of it smile and laugh as they remembered their Soviet childhood. newlyweds during the wedding ceremony. Many of these toys were of educational value; dolls dressed in Birds are especially revered, being thought to house the souls of Young Pioneer red scarfs and hiking gear and Soviet space dolls departed ancestors, who are sent to guard and advise us. If a bird and robots. Unless the collector of this vast group of toys was not flies into a window something dreadful will befall those who live successful in locating military toys, there was a surprising lack of inside. In all likelihood, a death is imminent. Storks have a special saber-rattling toys on display; some tanks and airplanes, mostly place in the hearts of Russian people Of course they are commonly from the 1930’s and the Great Patriotic War era, and only a small seen nesting in the branches of tall trees, but if one chooses to build display of toy side arms. While I am used to seeing toy Wild West his nest on your roof, you will be blessed with wonderful good cowboy guns in the U.S., this exhibit had miniature Kalashnikovs fortune. With a stork living in your thatch, it’ll never catch fire. In and toy hand guns that would impress a KGB agent! contrast, finding an owl on your roof spells the greatest misfortune. But dolls and stuffed animals dominated the exhibit. Hun- Destruction and illness are imminent and if the owl calls out three dreds of teddy bears and other creatures from Russian and So- times, death is around the corner. Dog behaviour is also believed to viet stories and fables were crowded together in display cases. presage doom. Despite its fondness for snuffling up crumbs which Dolls were also displayed by the hundreds. Another interesting fall to the floor, a dog is said to refuse any dropped morsels from the contrast with earlier U.S. race-phobic culture and earlier Soviet plate of someone who is soon to shuffle off this mortal coil. peace and Third World outreach - the many African and Asian Roosters also possess strong powers. Their presence is so be- dolls. That type of toy racial equality didn’t crop up in the U.S. nevolent that they are traditionally encouraged to be the first crea- until the ‘60s and ‘70’s. One puzzling omission; where were the ture to cross the threshold of a new home. If your cockerel dies, it dollhouses? I wonder if there were no dollhouses because no indicates that evil forces are lurking nearby. To remedy this, a cat proletariat children lived in houses? But playing with a doll- can be brought in to chase away the demons. house is not about where you live in real life, but pretending People say that if you hear a cuckoo in the forest, you should ask that you have control over a miniature space where you call the it how many years you’re going to live. Listen for how many calls it shots for the miniature doll family. Perhaps it was not practical gives in response. This may have proved more accurate in the days to have miniature communal apartments to play with, or later in when life-expectancy was little more than 30 years of age. If you Soviet life, doll apartment houses. Either way, it doesn’t matter. hear the cuckoo in May, you’ll have a year full of busy housework; This exhibit showed the diversity, the color (especially when but rather more happily, if you hear the first song of the nightin- plastics were introduced for toys), and the pure joy of toys avail- gale, you’ll have 12 months of romantic adventures. able to decades of Soviet children.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 50 .community community. Mac vs PC he revelation came at a discus- sion with a Bedrock graphic de- T signer at a New Year party. As a (Or Soar with long-time Mac addict, I asked her if she used a Mac. “No, I prefer a PC, its much better.” This was a surprise because in the known world (except for Bedrock, it appears) no self-respecting designer the Eagles) would be seen without a Mac. I couldn’t let this go: “What do you mean better?” like they might for those sold in Mos- “Well, a PC is much cheaper and I can cow. Wilma’s driving instructor advised, repair it myself. If something goes wrong “Take it to a guarded lot and don’t move I can upgrade a driver, replace a piece it for a week or two. They’ll give up try- of hardware or even write or download ing to find it, and in two weeks realize some software to tweak it. You can get it might have too many miles and road them repaired anywhere. And the inter- wear to still sell as new.” face is about the same anyway.” It was There were a few glitches at the deal- then that I flashed on the fact that these er, such as no owners’ manual. The mod- were the same arguments I had used in el we ordered came with 16 inch rims in- favor of a Zhiguli over an inomark (im- stead of the standard 15 inch. “We can’t port car). Just watch the Apple Mac vs PC web and TV ads. The Zhiguli is cheap to buy (currently $5,250) and I was twice able to install a new $7 fuel pump myself in a few min- utes. It’s easy to get a jump in Moscow when the Zhiguli doesn’t start or to have it towed when it just stops. But then in Bedrock new cars are apparently sold get snow tires for the 16, so you’ll have with a good, late-model inomark you more than once. The dealer has the key to get a set of 15 rims if you want snow don’t need to repair it because it starts security codes, your home and business tires,” stated the salesman. And lastly, and runs with no tweaking at all, just address, and, if they talk you into it, they our new pet ran out of gas before we like a Mac. It’s true that both the Zhiguli install all the other security features. left the dealer’s lot. They poured in a and an inomark have almost the same This time we avoided the dealer couple of liters and told us where to find kind of interface; a steering wheel, an for the extra security devices. I even the nearest gas station. As they say, it’s accelerator pedal and a brake, but there brought a Club from the U.S. figuring hard to soar with the eagles when you the resemblance ends. the locals wouldn’t have key copies run with turkeys. Oh! By the way, I had arrived at the New Year party in our new Nissan; the Flintstones have made another attempt to fly with the eagles and now we feel like the Jetsons. I’m glad I had the chance to cut my teeth on Moscow roads and with Moscow drivers in our Pomegran- ate Pyaturka, but we have graduated up and now at 60 km/hr we can actually hear the stereo over the road noise. Two hours in Bedrock traffic is at least tolera- ble, insulated from the soot and smoke. This morning at -17 degrees, our Silver Streak started right up. So far we have been able to hold onto the Nissan, unlike our previous attempt with another Japanese import that dis- appeared off the Garden Ring within 24 hours of delivery. After hearing from so many people that “it was probably the dealer” we were paranoid. In the U.S., stolen cars usually end up as parts, but George Jetson (aka Fred Flintstone)

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 51 52 PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 community listing. s Ni T 1 1 Parade. I Parade. S Moscow Annual Ir http://crbs.cerbanet.org in program and schedule the For 27, March 2007.till 26 March from Canada Ottawa, in Prospects» and Progress «Partners, Summit Business Canada-Russia Prospects». and Progress ners, S Business Russia Canada- "2007 the to you invite AFFA FOR with co-ordination in C +7(495) 255-49 on: Harris Joy call please information more For memberships. for charge no is There available. are memberships associate of number Alimited spouses. their and zens citi Zealand New and Australian all to open is group Auski The group. welcoming and social very but small arelatively are we link asupport Mainly hosting. is ever who for convenient more is ever which Wednesday second the on usually alunch, for amonth once least at meets group Auski The Aus www.standrewsmoscow.org 629-0990 Phone/Fax: Ryad) Okhotny (Metro Moscow. 8, Pereulok Voznesensky S 1 at started being Concert Classical We S 1 Prayer 8:30. Morning Wee 1 S 11 Communion 8:30. Holy S schedule 2007 March S Reli S formation write to C to write formation 1 1 day, the E +7(495) 722-6 TRAD

h mail: [email protected] mail: 2.30- 8:30. E 8:30. E 9:45. Bible study study 9:45. Bible Communion 9:00. Holy 9:30 PM (Tickets at the door) door) the at (Tickets 9:30 PM E o u oc chool and Creche and chool aturday) T ANDR T ANDR is A at St ght :00. S :00. RBA u c nday dn h Emba r ial tra i kday g a I R s CANADA is delighted to to delighted is E CANADA io l gro es 1 day and I S and 4.30, on Noviy Arbat. Arbat. Noviy 4.30, on n li s (including (including Prayer vening Prayer vening ung E ung t will take place on S on place take t will day E E : 8th of March 2007 from from 2007 March of 8th s Ne and an W’ W’ s Ni : ss u s S ANG S ANG NT p (Aus ucharist with S with ucharist : ndr y is C is ght 11 invites all to The The to all invites E 1 RNAT t Patrick's Day Day t Patrick's ummit –Part ummit 3 5 e will take place place take will LI LI w E CAN CH CAN CH CAN w Ze RBA website website RBA k ’s I i’s) ONA onc I GN GN a l L e unday unday U U and un rt RCH RCH - - - - - t be held on March 7th and 2 and 7th March on held be will month this for meetings AWO The Moscow. in organizations charitable supports also club The Moscow. in life to adapt women expat assists and members 200 over has Moscow of AWO The A All! for Fun and Dance Music, 8-9 200-5205 Cooper Chantal Contact: gmail.com I Moscow. contact: please information more For along. come Just necessary. experience no welcomed, are singers New May. of end the at concert aseasons have will and music popular and classical of amixture sing choir. They amateur I Moscow Pereulok. Voznesensky on Church Andrew’s S 7:00 at at pm Tuesday every rehearsals holding currently is and season spring its started has I Moscow The M Musi I Contact: –11 am 8.00 French. and Polish Russian, E in available is Counseling therapy. psycho and counseling career crisis, and trauma handling issues, personal and relational different counseling in experienced pists psychothera and psychologist of team international an by provided is service This atmosphere. able comfort adiscreet, in counseling professional providing service, phone-in confidential A free, 8-926- L Help Psychological Free I Hel [email protected] email: information further For S on Cafe 1 at place 1 March on held be will Meeting Newcomer's C i m on L H o e s 1 p L r 6-552-8339 Int cow EL c i W can i 11 P LI n es 3-3373 tary Arbat. Arbat. tary nternational Choir is an an is Choir nternational 0:30 at the Hard Rock Rock Hard the 0:30 at C nternational.Choir@ N L All meetings take take meetings All 4th. @list.ru ES .00 pm daily pm .00 nternational Choir Choir nternational om e rnat e n ’s O i ona rgan ine l C nglish, 1 st. A st. ho - is t i - a r - - .distribution list 53 CE I tan IS chool S RV S un alle an S tan S a S nternational alon L I urope Russia urope S E lectric Co lectric tockmann s E C hop ane Realty ane S ang ang NG SE NG

L L imousine service imousine S I LL ast ast r xpat L E mperial Tailoring Co. Tailoring mperial e I E L M M NT th niastrum Bank niastrum nilever niversity tockmann Khimkitockmann Teply tockmann hell Company hell Gallery hishkin rnst & Young & rnst S ittle Angels Kindergarden Angels ittle tal-Market CA officeCA ndian ndian BM BM s . U U T The The I I I PriceWaterhouseCoopers Gamble & Procter ChristianRussian-American U S S S S Concept The The Wimm-Bill-Dann Moscow Wrigley's Apple ComputerApple Place) Hughes(Aerostar Baker Citibank CrownRelocations DH E Centre Press Ministry Foreign General Goodyear Halliburton AcademyChristian Hinkson I Community Jewish JCC Jones Khimki Mega. Teply Mega. Bureau Voyage Moscow Relocations One Move Gallery NB Nestle Office Magazine Passport Company PBN Penny Russia Philips O Pickfords Allied Bookshop Anglia Anglo-American General Motors C Motors General Baltimore The Kalinka Kalinka L Mars port a ees OU e 3, e, y f CC 11 50 xtra ar l 1 rman & Russi nt Re ag u , Russi ies e -7 S 1 ss n e LE A rnst & rnst m a e NG , Ge E I cow B D s A ompan L s o dd ky P kaya Sq I i r e s s heremetyevo RD el C el n n S nt O anage 11 o h le le rav xpress AM HO xpocentre 099 M : (+7495) 937-8290 : (+7495) E FF E 1 E : (+7495) 77 : (+7495) 1 h 2 A ax 0 nternational es/T I ess Ce ess heremetyevo 2 heremetyevo • Low month • N DR • English • M Smo Smo P F 1 1 n S n . . 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Delta E E Feras Finnair JA JA Asia Group Mentor AirwaysQatar S S S Airways Thai Business Center DegtyarnyCenter Business Mokhovaya Center Business Plaza Daev 2 Place Ducat Gogolyevsky I house Japan Building McDonalds House Meyerkhold Plaza Midland Dom Morskoi Plaza Mosalarko Center Mosbusiness Center Business Moscow Mosenka 2 Mosenka 3 Mosenka 4 Mosenka 5 Mosenka 6 Mosenka Passage Novinsky Plaza Olympic Center Business Parus Abels & Petch Dvor Romanov S S S S S Busi CenterAmerican ( Park Business Avrora Young) U U s r port Club port e 1 floor S 1 nt ris ris I Alarm CenterAlarm Medical Clinic Medical l Ce l eninsky Pr. eninsky S S es L molenskaya en. Prospect en. O O eninsky Prospect eninsky L S L nta S S ntr trastnoi Boul. trastnoi S Slavyanskaya ushi. Novinsky 3 Novinsky ushi. ushi. ushi, Nov. Arbat Nov. ushi, Yamskaya Tverskaya ushi, ushi. l/De ea KY eas un of the Desert the of un rish Pub rish ine Club ine I S S S S S xpress S S S S L E ca i oder. Ostozhenka oder. oder. ess Ce ess .Friday‘s. Novoslobodskaya .Friday‘s. ArbatNovy .Friday‘s. Tverskaya .Friday‘s. .Friday‘s. .Friday‘s. I I I I L L . Dental Care Dental . d .P.National S I tn zbekistan ley ni (Old Tokyo) (Old ni tarlite Diner. Mayakovskaya tarliteDiner. Octoberskaya tarliteDiner. anta Fe anta candinavia even imple Pleasures imple udar Cafe) unGate(Fame port hafran hamrok hanti ilvers . uropean Dental Center Dental uropean Center Medical uropean nternational nternational Planet Planet Planet Planet T.G. T.G. T.G. S S S S S T.G. Fi Dr. Dr. Gym Gold›s Radisson V. Vanilla Zapravochnya Bar&Grill.Tverskaya American Yamskaya Me ClinicAmerican Center Dental American Center Medicical American E E Center Dental German I S Tesora Place The McCoy Real The Tofu Macaroni Trattoria Tunnel U U U Vesna Vita la Viva White Mama Yapona Yellow Talk of Town of Talk restaurant Tapadecomida Pizza MaximaPizza Planet Planet Planet MaltesePorto Maltese. Porto Public Pyramid CafeR&B Hotel Rendezvous, Molly Gwynn‘s Krasnaya Presnaya Krasnaya Gwynn‘s Molly Arbat Nov. Pub, Gwynn‘s Molly Pyatnitskaya Pub, Gwynn‘s Molly Place My Flight Night Ark Noahs Nostalgie Paname Villa Pancho Moon Paper Parisienne KutuzovskyProspect Pinocchio, Pizza S S S S S S S I U s 1 ar tretenka s & B & s S teak House teak molenskakaya eninsky Prospect eninsky S teakHouse S L rant oka S u L lephant E andwiches ta S Patio, Tverskaya Yamskaya Tverskaya Patio, Volkhonka Patio, Patio, Novinsky 3 Novinsky Patio, Patio, Patio, Patio, 3 3 sterhazy abardans e Club e Hacienda e eonardo Pub ondon Bandidos os ouisiana talianets chiban Boshi chiban IL IL I IL IL Maisoncafe Marios Bansko Mekhana Vstrechi Mesto Moka- Hic Bibitur Hic I IL Khajuraho Kivayaki L L L L L L L Donna Klara Donna Gray Dorian Boarhouse Marty‘s & Doug Doug‘s E Mo Fat Angels/Five Four Rings CafeFrench Art of Gallery Gandhara Viso e Gibo Gorki Guilly‘s Gulden Cafe Rock Hard CantinettaAntinori CarreBlanc Casual Guevaro Che Dream China Pizza Cicco Pokrovsky CoffeeBean, Pyatnitskaya CoffeeBean, CoffeeBean, Teverskaya CoffeeBean, Colonna Milio Correas'da Darbar France Deli Cafe Delis Cafe Delis Baan Thai Baan Beavers BeerHouse Benihana Bezh Big-Pig-Pub Bleachers Blue Bookafe Budvar Atlas Cafe CourvoisierCafe Michelle Cafe MokkaCafe Roset Cafe Res 1 Academy Acapulco Accenti Adriatico Terrasse Alpen Val Bar&Grill.Zemlyanoi American Antonio ArtBazar ArtChaikhona Open Australian outh Gate outh S mirates E heremetyevo mbassy S E . Novoslbodskaya . Slavyanskaya 1 rbis ssies I mbassy. mbassy. E els . . S ot nited Arab nited nited Kingdom nited weden wissotel Krasnye Holmy Krasnye wissotel audi Arabia audi outh Africa outh Korea outh pain ingapore heraton Palace Palace heraton retenskaya . ast-West gypt uxembourg taly celand ndia ndonesia reland ris srael U Thailand S S S S Slovenia S Slovakia S Portugal Philippines Poland Malaysian Malaysian Zealand New Norway L Kuwait Japan I I I I I I Hungary Germany Greece Finland France E Czech Republic Czech Denmark China Cyprus Brazil Canada Austria Belgium Emba Australia Zolotoye Kol‘tso Zolotoye Volga Zavidovo Tiflis S S S Novotel 2. 2. Novotel Radisson Renaissance Ozerkovsky HotelOzerkovsky Proton Novotel Novotel Orlyonok National Mezhdunarodnaya 2 Mezhdunarodnaya CountryClub Moscow Metropol Marriott Royal Aurora HotelAurora MarriottRoyal MarriottTverskaya I Katerina MarriottGrand Hotel Hotel Zarya Hotel E Globus City CenterCity Baltchug Kempinski Baltchug MarriottMoscowCourtyard by Ararat Park Hyatt AraratPark Art-Hotel Akvarel Hotel Moscow Akvarel Hotel Alrosa H U U .out & about Johnnie Walker Black Label BLACK BALL Moscow hasn’t seen a ball of such scale since Woland's days in this city. Organized by John- nie Walker Black Label on Feb- ruary 9 in Forum Hall, it marked the end of the series of club par- ties "Shift to Black". Taken to the party venue by 40 black limou- sines, the guests were greeted by the black panther that lay on its sofa and graciously al- lowed to take pictures with her. Other surprises that awaited the guests was a presentation of McLaren Mercedes, Formula- 1 bolide, new black collection by Chistova & Endourova, and a concert by Tara McDonald who came to Moscow specifically for the event.

Dancing the night away February 16th saw a festive gathering of over 300 invited rep- resentatives from corporate client companies, tour agencies and friends of the Marriott Courtyard Hotel a a “Let’s Dance” party. “We just wanted to get all our friends together to have fun after a hard working week”, said Marina Smirnova, the hotel’s PR manager. The entertainment program included lively dance classes for salsa, disco and belly dancing. There were dance contests and a lottery with prizes including weekend stays at Marriott Court- yards in European capitals. A never ending supply of food came from the kitchens su- pervised by Executive Chef Nick Van Riemsbeijk.

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 54 out & about. CERBA & RUSSO-BRITISH joint meeting On February 15, Canada Eur- Mr. Ralph Lysyshyn. This fifth asia Russia Business Associa- joint CERBA and RBCC event tion (CERBA) and the Russo- once again demonstrated the British Chamber of Commerce continued spirit of coopera- (RBCC) headed by Neil Coo- tion and friendship between per co-hosted the Governor British and Canadian business of Ulyanovsk Region, Sergei communities in Russia. Ivanovich Morozov, at a joint event at the Holiday Inn So- kolniki. Morozov delivered a powerful presentation on investment opportunities in Ulyanovsk Region. The event was held at the recently opened Holiday Inn Sokolniki, which has the capac- ity to host over 1,000 guests. As the President of the Mos- cow Chapter of CERBA, Nathan Hunt, put it, “this isn’t your av- erage Holiday Inn”. The Gen- eral-Manager of this state of the art facility, Markku Wahl- berg, was proud to host over 300 Russian, British and Ca- nadian guests, who included Her Majesty’s Ambassador to Russia Mr. Anthony Brenton, and his Canadian counterpart IWC Evening of Excellence raises cash for charity The 11th Annual Embassies the Ball has always been Citi- of the World Dinner & Ball was zens of the World coming to- once again held in Moscow gether to dine and dance for at the height of the winter so- IWC sponsored charities. This cial season on Friday, February year the annual gathering of 16th. The hundreds of beauti- diplomats and leaders of the ful roses that the Embassy of local expatriate and Russian Ecuador flew in to Moscow for community will raise money the occasion and that adorned for two of IWC special chari- the Polish Embassy where the ties: Inspiration Center, where glittering ball was held, added the need for dairy and storage to the special feeling of the equipment for a self-sustaining evening. Fred Astaire dance dairy and cheese manufactur- teachers entertained with their ing center is vital, and The Night dance demonstrations and also Bus, a group of volunteers who gave dance lessons to the at- travel by bus to areas where the tending guests. Many guests homeless gather and where learned the foxtrot, salsa and food and warm clothing is dis- other techniques for getting tributed. Part of the money is out on the dance floor and NOT also for sustaining soup kitch- making fools of themselves! ens staffed by IWC volunteers. The evening continued 11 years of Ball tradition with in- timate dinners held at 21 Em- bassy residences in Moscow where national specialities were served to over 360 guests before they gathered for the Ball at the Embassy of Poland. The charitable purpose of

PASSPORT | MARCH | 2007 | issue # 03 55 .the last word

Seven Years later and it is another coun- try. Russia has found its voice on the global stage, and demands respect, if not love. After a dirty war, Chechnya has been pacified and no longer threatens to plunge Russia into civil war – I have nothing good to say about the Kadyrov faction now in place, except that who but one Chechen warlord faction could have beaten back the Islamists? The Rus- sian economy is well on its way to dou- bling in size; at more than $300 bn, Rus- sian reserves are the world’s third largest after Japan and China. Incomes have in- creased dramatically, with an explosion of the middle class, and the percentage of the population living below the pov- erty threshold has decreased from about 35% in 1999 to 15% today. President Pu- tin has made bringing this last 15% into the fold one of the major priorities for the end of his presidency.

Russia is widely criticised for its lack of democracy. Your view? For Russians the word “Democracy” is as- sociated with the worst excesses of the Yeltsin years. While there can be no de- bate that some form of democracy is op- timal for rich countries, empirically none of the developing countries which have enjoyed the fastest, sustained growth in overall well-being – first Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Singapore and Malaysia; now Vietnam, China and Russia - were partic- ularly democratic, at least during the ini- tial phases of their transformation. Rus- sia is relatively democratic for a country at its level of economic development; perhaps, in a decade or so, it will be no less so than the European Union.

What about Russia’s poor image abroad? Eric Kraus You have been called many things over Russia’s attempts to project a positive im- is the Managing Director of Anyatta Capital, the years, but recently someone de- age abroad could be most charitably de- the investment advisor to the Nikitsky Rus- scribed you as a “Putin apologist”? scribed as “pathetic”. It would be helpful sia/CIS Opportunities Fund. Hogwash! I am not an apologist for anyone. if the Russian administration could clar- For over a decade he has been analysing in- I am an outright and enthusiastic Putin fan. ify its attitude towards the West. Either vestment opportunities in Russia. Russia has become home to me, and I am take the Chinese approach and inform He writes a monthly newsletter Truth and frankly grateful to President Putin for the the Western powers that their opinions Beauty (… and Russian Finance) available in transformation of Russian life under his are strictly their own problem, or alter- pdf format at watch. I believe that history will count him nately, make a concerted and especially www.nikitskyfund.com. amongst those very few men who proved a sustained effort at managing the spin, to be, quite literally, the saviours of their consistently and coherently. The middle countries. ground is simply not tenable.

When Putin became Prime minister These opinions and remarks are taken the jibe about Russia, ‘Ivory Coast with from T&B of 12 February 2007. nukes’ was commonplace. How have Eric Kraus may be contacted at : things progressed? [email protected] Photo by Dmitry Guschin for Forbes Magazine

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