Southern Tuscany
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© Lonely Planet SOUTHERN TUSCANY 3 PERFECT DAYS DAY 1 // MEDIEVAL ELBOW ROOM Although lacking in eye-popping sights, the atmospheric and compelling historic centres of Grosseto ( p220 ) and Massa Marittima ( p222 ) off er one of the rarest ameni- ties in Tuscany: personal space. Well guarded from extraneous vehicle traffi c, both are prime spots for the passeggiata (traditional evening stroll), and with tour buses roaring to higher-profi le cities up north, your quiet sit-down and medieval reverie on the steps of the respective cathedrals will be nigh undisturbed. Respectable museums and select eating options make either city worthy of a sleepover. DAY 2 // A COASTAL CALL The southern coast is relatively serene area, Monte Argentario in high season notwith- standing. All the nature and exercise you need can be found within Parco Regionale della Maremma ( p225 ). The towns of Orbetello ( p226 ), Porto Santo Stefano ( p226 ) and Porto Ercole ( p227 ) cumulatively contain seaside diversions, narrow lanes, outstanding eating and calf-blasting climbs to tenaciously located forts. The latter two bookend the some- times dangerously overcrowded Via Panoramica, a circular route off ering coastal views. DAY 3 // AN ETRUSCAN TOUR A number of arresting Etruscan sites pepper Tuscany’s southern extent. The extensive walls, foundations and roads at Roselle ( p220 ) are well worth the detour, and Satur- nia ( p229 ) and the Ghiaccio Forte abitato Etrusco ( p229 ) are powerful draws, but the strongest cluster of sites is in the area around Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano ( p230 ). There you can explore extensive tombs ( p232 ), vie cave (sunken roads; p232 ) and even the Vitozza rock caves ( p232 ), fi rst inhabited in prehistoric times. 216 SOUTHERN TUSCANY LONELYPLANET.COM SOUTHERN TUSCANY MASSA MARITTIMA p222 A compelling, pristine and comparatively serene medieval centre SOUTHERN TUSCANY #\ Monterotondo Marittimo Montebamboli #\ Massa #\ Marittima Venturina #\ ‚To Livorno (65km) #\ Montemassi /·SS1 #\ Follonica GROSSETO p220 Golfo di "b Etruscan Follonica Vetulonia #\ Sites A passeggiata dream and personal "b space to enjoy it Roselle #\ Punta Ala #^ Castiglione #\ Grosseto della Pescaia Marina di #\ Grosseto PARCO REGIONALE DELLA MAREMMA p225 #\Alberese Hike through this sprawling, #\ Marina di "U diverse, unspoiled protected area Alberese Parco Regionale della Maremma #\ T Y R R H E N I A N Talamone S E A /·SS1 PORTO SANTO STEFANO p226 Albinia #\ Tombolo della Dine on top-value seafood then Giannella join the waterfront passeggiata Porto Santo Orbetello #\ Stefano #\ Monte Argentario #\ Porto Isola de Ercole GETTING AROUND Giglio Southern Tuscany has arguably the weakest public transport connections in Tuscany. Buses connect Grosseto with Massa Marittima, Magliano in Toscana, Castiglione della Pescaia, Pitigliano and Porto Santo Stefano. Grosseto is on the Rome–La Spezia train line, with some services stopping at Orbetello Scalo and Follonica, where shuttles go to Massa Marittima. The SS1 connects Grosseto with Rome and Livorno. Parking is tight anywhere on Monte Argentario. Both Massa Marittima and Grosseto have paid parking just outside the centre and free parking not much further beyond..