Bilbao, Basque Country & La Rioja

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Includes  Why Go? Basque Country. . . 401 The jade hills and drizzle-filled skies of this pocket of Spain Bilbao...... 401 are quite a contrast to the popular image of the country. The San Sebastián. . . . 417 Basques, the people who inhabit this corner, also consider Oñati...... 431 themselves different. They claim to be the oldest Europeans and to speak the original European language. Whether or Vitoria...... 432 not this is actually the case remains unproven, but what is Navarra ...... 436 beyond doubt is that they live in a land of exceptional beauty Pamplona...... 436 and diversity. There are mountains watched over by almost Southern Navarra. . 444 forgotten gods, cultural museums and art galleries, street La Rioja ...... 448 parties a million people strong and, arguably, the best food in Spain. Logroño...... 448 Leave the rugged north behind and feel the temperature La Rioja rise as you hit the open, classically Spanish plains south of Wine Region . . . . 452 Pamplona. Here you enter the world of Navarra and La Rio- ja. It’s a region awash with glorious wine, sunburst colours, dreamy landscapes, medieval monasteries and enticing wine towns. Best Places to Eat ¨¨Arzak (p424) ¨¨La Cuchara de San Telmo When to Go (p425) Mina Restaurante Bilbao (p413) La Fábrica (p423) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall Inches/mm 40/104 8/200 ¨¨Bar Torrecilla (p450) 30/86 6/150

20/68 4/100 Best Places to Sleep 10/50 2/50 ¨¨Hotel Marqués de Riscal 0/32 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N (p455) ¨¨Hotel Zubieta (p416) May Spring brings Jul–Sep Lively Sep Harvest ¨¨Miró Hotel (p408) crowds, and a San Sebastián at festivals bring bustling modern its best and, un- festivity and ¨¨Pensión Aida (p422) art scene, in the less you’re skiing, free-flowing wine ¨¨La Casa de los Arquillos museums and gal- the best time to to the villages of (p434) leries of Bilbao. visit the Pyrenees. La Rioja.

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