SEPTEMBER 2017

Japan’s number one English language magazine

AUTUMN EYES HARAJUKU LASHES AND MORE TIPS FROM A/W17

GACKT "THERE'S AN EMPTINESS IN

PEOPLE'S HEARTS"

WHAT MAKES YOU GET UP IN THE MORNING?

PLUS: "Life in Transit" Photo Story, Osaka on Two Wheels, the Tokyo Café Serving Prophecies, and UFC's Big Comeback Join the Conversation, Join the Club

JOIN TOKYO WEEKENDER’S INSIDERS CLUB TO FIND OUT ABOUT LIMITED OFFERS THROUGHOUT TOKYO, ATTEND EXCLUSIVE EVENTS, GET THE LATEST INFORMATION ABOUT PRODUCTS BEFORE THEY LAUNCH, AND LET YOUR VOICE BE HEARD. CHECK OUT WWW.TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM/WEEKENDERINSIDERS FOR MORE DETAILS 22 30 32 34 SEPTEMBER 2017SEPTEMBER

radar in-depth 32 GACKT THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS COFFEE-BREAK READS The musician and actor on his new film, and why people are so disconnected. 8 AREA GUIDE: BANCHO 22 THE FIGHTERS An area few seem to know about may hold As UFC Fight Night approaches later this 34 LIFE IN TRANSIT the key to the ultimate lifestyle in Tokyo. month, we look at the sport's global rise Photographer Charles Levi focuses his lens and newest Japanese star. on the subtle moments on Tokyo's trains. 10 STYLE: HAPPY MEDIUM Breeze through autumn with transitional 26 COFFEE AND PROPHECY pieces to take you from summer to winter. The curious case of a Tokyo café serving cappuccinos along with inspirational guide 12 BEAUTY: AUTUMN EYES messages from God. CULTURE ROUNDUP The Fall/Winter 2017 catwalks provide plenty 38 ART of inspiration for creative makeup looks. 28 IS "IKIGAI" THE SECRET TO Otherwordly images Belgium, the golden age HAPPINESS? of flowers, and traditionalnihonga works. 14 TRENDS: ICE CREAM CRAWL Possibly the next buzzword to come out Some of our favorite ice cream, gelato and of Japan, ikigai refers to one's reason for 40 AGENDA shaved ice shops in the city. being – but can it help change your life? Rakugo in English, a percussion performance, and a jellyfish tunnel. 18 THE CONCIERGE 30 OSAKA ON TWO WHEELS Editor's picks from our roundup of top spots Cycling just might be the best way to 42 SOCIETY and services in the city. explore Japan's third largest city. Tokyo's longest-running social column. SEPTEMBER 2017

Publisher ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

President Takanobu Ushiyama

Executive Producer Naoya Takahashi

Editor in Chief Annemarie Luck Senior Editors Alec Jordan Lisa Wallin

Creative Director Liam Ramshaw

Features Writer Matthew Hernon

Contributors Vivian Morelli Bill Hersey Bunny Bissoux

Sales Director Takaaki Murai Sales Executives Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Ayane Sugawara Azusa Yoshida

Marketing Director Jessica Yumi Idomoto

Media Consultant Mary Rudow Media Producers Claudia Sun Yuda Chou

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970

SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku Tokyo, Japan 151-0051 (03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax) [email protected]

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Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

4 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER @bapawn: Despite the picture perfect image we’ve got @bapawn: That’s be my daughter, I think. She gets up on the cover, there’s plenty of deep thinking going on early But what I do like in respect to the concept of in this issue’s pages. To start with, do you believe in ikigai is the idea of finding small joys throughout the fortune tellers? day. It’s something my wife always talks about, and I was happy to see the idea pop up again in that article. @mizrama: Interesting question! I actually used to have my own set of tarot cards, and there was part of me that @mizrama: Yes, me too. I guess it’s similar to concepts wanted to believe. These days I’m more of a cynic. What like mindfulness or even that little guide called The about you – would you ever visit Yogen Café in Shinjuku Secret that became popular a few years back. It’s always [page 26] to receive one of their prophecies? interesting to realize that different cultures all over the world suffer the same kind of existential angst. @bapawn: After reading the article, I’d be tempted to go when I was in need of a pick me up. Their prophecies @bapawn: Yes, I was surprised to read that even a seem to be on the positive side, overall. But I probably character like Gackt [page 32] is in touch with that sense fall into that category of Westerner who has sought for of disconnection. meaning outside of their own culture, so I might be trying to seek enlightenment at a Zen temple or some @mizrama: He seems to get the balance right – being place like that. aware of the “emptiness in people’s hearts,” as he puts it, while being able to find his own sense of inner peace. @mizrama: How about using the Japanese concept of ikigai then [page 28]? Finding your reason for being – or @bapawn: Who knows … maybe Gackt will be the next at least, the thing that gets you up in the morning? person to bring out a self-help book.

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6 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... Autumn style and beauty inspiration, the most Instagrammable ice creams in Tokyo, and a neighborhood that could just be the city's best kept secret.

TOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDERWEEKENDER || SEPTEMBERSEPTEMBER 2017 | 7 AREA GUIDE BANCHO: TOKYO’S BEST KEPT SECRET? Words by Lisa Wallin

An area few seem to know about may hold the key to the ultimate lifestyle experience in the Big Mikan

ancho, a prestigious residential area in the center of Tokyo, offers an unexpected respite from the hustle and bustle of the urban me- Btropolis. Trees line the streets in this urban oasis that is just a stone’s throw away from the Imperial Palace, and is home to a colorful history and a long lineage of cultural greats.

CITY OF SAMURAI During the Edo period, Bancho was home to samurai vassals and the Tokugawa clan’s bodyguards. Located strategically on the west bank of the Edo Castle (now Imperial Palace) moat, soldiers were always nearby and on call in the event of an attack. The area was comprised of hundreds of samurai residences and training schools, with the district split up into six sections numbered from one to six, according to their according squadrons. Bancho was originally named for the guard houses that samurai vassals lived in, called daibansho.

CENTER OF CULTURE With the Meiji period came a thirst for knowledge and culture, and this time Bancho acted as a nerve center for many intellectuals thanks to its central location. Novelists, composers, politicians, artists and kabuki actors gathered and exchanged ideas here. One such individual, Takeo Arishima, was a novelist famed for his depiction of the societal changes women faced in the early 20th century. Bancho remains a cultural hub today and famous institutes such as the National Museum of Modern Art, Kioi Hall, Sophia University, and the National Theatre of Japan are just a few of the highly regarded cultural institutions within walking distance.

LIFESTYLE OF LEISURE Being a primarily residential area, Bancho is a quiet, comfortable neighbor- hood with tree-lined avenues and picture perfect cafés tucked away behind lush greenery. Biancane, an authentic Tuscan restaurant, has had its home here since 2008, offering mouthwatering Italian full-course dinners and lunches in a traditional setting. Exclusive Murakami Kaishindo is an invite-

8 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER only restaurant and confectionery shop where first-time diners and sweet shoppers can only enter with an introduction from an existing client (barring lunchtime). Locals living in the area are more likely to meet the right people to get them an “in” for this swank store. For the health-conscious, an athletic park, a tennis center, several parks and the 5km Imperial Palace Loop couldn’t be closer. For those who prioritize their health and well-being, this district makes it easy to fulfill those goals.

KING OF CONVENIENCE Bancho’s central location means that everything a resident could ever need or want is easily obtainable within a one kilometer radius. The area offers easy access to several major train stations, as well as sightseeing spots like the Imperial Palace and Sotobori Park, known for its cherry blossoms in spring. It’s also home to some of the nation’s top-rated schools, legal firms, and clinics. Several embassies are located nearby, including the British and Belgian embassies, and for those entertain- ing guests, the upscale Hotel New Otani alone has 38 dining options, a spa and a beautiful Japanese-style garden to enjoy.

Want to stay in Bancho? Using 60 years' experience as specialists in the central Tokyo real estate business, Mitsubishi Jisho Residence provides clients with immaculate properties in the most distinguished residential areas in Japan. Our fourteenth condominium offering, The Parkhouse Gobancho, is located in the Go Bancho area in Chiyoda Ward, just two minutes from Ichigaya Station. It will be ready for occupancy by September 2018.

For more info visit www.mecsumai. com/international/en For showroom viewings and inquiries, please email [email protected] STYLE

FENDI DRESS For its 2017 pre-fall collection, Italian luxury house Fendi has created soft, feminine and modern designs, like this baby doll mini dress. The dark coral shade of this dress and its wool and silk blend material make it the perfect transition piece between late summer days and those crisp first days of autumn. Pair it with platform sandals for an evening out, or with ballerinas or sandals for daytime. fendi.com

BREEZE THROUGH AUTUMN WITH TRANSITIONAL PIECES THAT'LL HELP YOU SEGUE FROM SUMMER TO WINTER Compiled by Vivian Morelli

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA BOOTS The official start of autumn happens in September, so velvet once again makes an appearance. And just like pretty much every autumn, the plush textile found itself on numerous Fall 2017 runways, meaning velvet is big this season. While draping yourself in the material is a fashion faux pas, these ankle boots will add the perfect dose of velvet to any outfit. Created by the quirky Charlotte Olympia label, this pair of boots is made of soft black velvet and is adorned with an embroidered spider and a gold spiderweb-trimmed zip. charlotteolympia.com ACNE STUDIOS SWEATSHIRT The normcore trend has come and gone, but unassuming grey sweatshirts are here to stay. Formerly reserved for the practice of various sports, they are now a wardrobe staple that will help you stop wondering what to wear on weekends. This version, designed by Swedish label Acne Studios, is cut from a soft cotton-jersey and adorned with the house’s simple emoji logo. Pair it with jeans and sneakers for what will quickly become your go-to look. acnestudios.com

MIU MIU SKIRT Channel your inner school girl with this tartan mini skirt, which Italian brand Miu Miu released right on time for the back-to-school season. Crafted from weighty wool-tweed, this playful number features some beautifully pressed pleats and vivid hues. You can pair yours with a blazer and loafers to get the full school girl look, but we prefer to wear ours with an oversized sweatshirt and ankle boots for a more casual vibe. miumiu.com

BAUME & MERCIER WATCH Founded in 1830 in Geneva, Baume & Mercier is one of Switzerland’s longest established watchmakers. Engineered for precision and meticulously tested through all stages of production, the Geneva-made timepieces are designed to last for decades and passed down to future generations. We love this classic 18-karat red gold watch, powered by the automatic Swiss SW300 movement. The simple dial design and dark brown alligator strap makes it appropriate for both the office and formal evenings out. baume-et-mercier.com

THOM BROWNE JACKET September is typhoon season in Japan, so this windbreaker will come in handy for those sporadic gusts of wind and rain. The New York-based label is known for its edgy, playful and athletic designs, and funnily enough this particular jacket was made in Japan. While the jacket looks sporty, the detailing, such as the buttoned cuffs and the luxurious, thick navy and white ripstop fabric add a sophisticated touch. thombrowne.com BEAUTY

MAGNETIC METALS METALLICS AS SEEN AT: Pamella Roland and The Blonds

FROSTY GREYS AS SEEN AT: Derek Lam and Victoria Beckham Start with sparkling lids, but also add shine on the lips and a touch of highlighter for overall radiance. Or opt for the moody intellectual look with grey eyeshadow and soft mascara.

WHETHER YOU PREFER TO REFLECT THE SEASON’S FIERY HUES OR BRIGHTEN THE MOOD WITH DRAMATIC COLOR BLOCKING, THE FALL/ WINTER 2017 CATWALKS PROVIDED PLENTY OF INSPIRATION FOR CREATIVE EYE MAKEUP LOOKS

Compiled by Annemarie Luck

ROSE TINTED AS SEEN AT: Marchesa, Altuzarra, and Proenza Schouler From soft ballerina pink to brighter apricot, 2017’s rosy lid look calls to mind Girl with a Pearl Earring. It was complemented with bleached brows and lashes for an utterly ethereal beauty. Keep lips in the same pastel color range, only going as far as magenta for a stronger impact. GRAPHIC EYELINER AS SEEN AT: Yves Saint Laurent, Versace, and Balmain Think straight or curved lines of black (or even white) eyeliner that swoop across the center of the lid rather than just above the lashes, giving the arc a floating effect. Or a lower lid completely filled in with black liner but with a top border that stretches straight across, above the crease, and meets the outer corners of the brows in a dramatic flourish.

COLOR BLOCKING AS SEEN AT: Emilio De La Morena, Zadig Et Voltaire, Anna Sui, Oscar de la Renta We love the powerful color combo seen at Oscar de la Renta, which combined a thick band of fuchsia eyeliner nearly covering the lower lid, and a light blue shadow directly above it – no blending or shading, just pure, clashing, two- tone statements.

HARAJUKU LASHES AS SEEN AT: Jeremy Scott, Tadashi Shoji, and MSGM The doll look is in with bold fake lashes decorated in glitter and pops of bright color. Other takes on the style include clumpy morning-after lashes, or bottom-heavy eyes where all the fuss is on the lower lashes. Vogue calls it “lash maximalism.” TRENDS Tokyo Ice Cream Crawl Compiled by Lisa Wallin September fools us into thinking it’s fall, but the lingering hot weather tells us otherwise. To cool down, make a pilgrimage to some of our favorite ice cream, gelato and shaved ice shops in the city

GRAM FACTORY THE STORY This new addition to Shimokitazawa’s trendy eatery selec- tion is a shaved ice shop with a dif- ference. Gram Factory isn’t shy about how it wants you to let everyone know about it: the store front simply reads #Gram, hashtag included. WHY WE LOVE THEM Its chic, ceiling-to-floor white tile interior coupled with a counter crowded with rainbow-filled jars or every kind of colorful candy and glorious topping makes it a savvy social media snap- per’s heaven. WHAT TO TRY If you want to unleash your creativity and mix and match to your heart’s content, go for the milk base called #milkgram, which works as an empty canvas. For those less creatively inclined, the #OREOgram is a hard-to-resist cookie-covered mountain of decadence. 2-15-1 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku, www.instagram.com/gram_factory

GOMAYA KUKI THE STORY Opened in collaboration with Kuki Sangyo Corporation, pur- veyor of sesame products, Gomaya Kuki has set out to be the number one sesame ice cream maker in the world. WHY WE LOVE THEM Not only is the rich, creamy flavor of the ice cream delicious, sesame is also a great source of magnesium and a plethora of other minerals, so it’s (almost) a healthy treat. WHAT TO TRY Kuro Cho Noukou (Kuro Super Rich) uses about 9,000 black sesame seeds, making it the ultimate sesame-flavored sweet. 1F Minami Harajuku Bldg., 4-6-9 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, gomayakuki.jp

14 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER SERENDIPITY 3 THE STORY A fairytale in the making, this coffee house boutique started with the serendipitous meeting of three dance class students in 1950s New York City with barely 300 dollars between them. Over 60 years later, already named a “legendary dessert destination” in the Big Apple, they opened their Japanese flagship store halfway across the world. WHY WE LOVE THEM The interior is a playful mix of nostalgic old-timey ice cream parlor and Mad Hatter’s art gallery, giving it a fun, whimsical feel. WHAT TO TRY Both the Matcha Ice Cream Frrrozen Hot Chocolate and the Cherry Pie Sundae are Japan-only offerings, and are perfect choices for making people back home feel jealous. 3F Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku, 4-30-3 BALLON D’ESSAI Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, serendipity3.jp/en GALLERY AND CAFÉ

THE STORY This latte specialty shop-meets-art gallery is a cozy hideaway from the busy streets of Shimokitazawa. Over the last few years, they’ve branched out to offer exclusive barista-made kakigori, all year-round. WHY WE LOVE THEM Not only do they serve great coffee, they also provide a venue for the meeting of minds, where people can come to- gether and discuss art – both of the latte and the traditional kind. WHAT TO TRY The espresso shaved ice is a sensory experience. Pour freshly brewed espresso over the milk-flavored ice flakes and watch it soak up the caffeinated black gold before your eyes, as the aroma fills the room. As if that weren't enough, a rich coffee jelly treat awaits at the bottom. 2-30-11 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku, ballondessai.com

ROLL ICE CREAM FACTORY THE STORY This New York-style ice cream shop opened in June this year and has become a fast favorite for Harajuku- bound youngsters looking for an Instagrammable treat. WHY WE LOVE THEM With four ice cream flavors, 20 mix-in ingredients, 10 sauces, and more than 40 toppings to choose from, every visit is a new flavor experience. WHAT TO TRY Use your imagination and make your own special combo – that’s the beauty of this place. For those who find it difficult to make decisions, choose one of the shop’s recommended combinations. We like Yokan Whisper, which is a full-on Japanese flavor explo- sion of green tea ice cream, shiratama, yokan, kinako and kuromitsu. 4-28-12 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, rollicecreamfactory.com

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 15 [ PROMOTION ]

iigata has abundant natural resources, especially clear water and fertile land, making it the numberN one region for production of koshihikari rice, and one of the top producers of sake, edamame and a variety of mushrooms. So, it comes as no surprise that it’s also a foodie’s paradise, with many local specialties you won’t find anywhere else. To get a taste of Niigata without a pricey train tick- et, drop by the Tabisuru Shintora Market in Tokyo to find rural fare that’ll make your mouth water. The four stands, which you can find just outside Toranomon Hills, each have their own distinctive menus, offering a range of delec- table delights for the adventurous gourmet. Here’s a quick guide to the five different Niigata cities that are showcasing their cuisine until the end of September.

Niigata for Foodies GET A TASTE TABISURUOF THE PREFECTURE’S SHINTORA MARKET CULINARY IN TOKYO DELIGHTS AT THE

NAGAOKA: AN EXPLOSION OF FLAVORS

Nagaoka city is known for Tochio aburaage, a deep-fried tofu pouch that can be up to three times the size of traditional aburaage. For lunch, try the jumbo aburaage in the Tochio Aburaage Don, which comes with a side of miso soup and pickled vegetables. The Na- gaoka Bento offers a variety of smaller dishes for those looking for a true taste of the region. The dinner menu boasts a selection of lighter fare, including eda- mame served in a firework shell, which is available in three different sizes. The stand also has an extensive selection of 16 different types of sake, offering sake lovers a chance to taste some of Niiga- ta’s finest brews.

16 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER SANJO AND TSUBAME: SPICE IT UP

Metalworking regions Sanjo and Tsubame are known for their hearty meals meant to feed hardworking craftsmen. As such, this stand’s lunch options are guaranteed to give you the energy to power through the rest of your day. The Kouba Bento changes weekly, giving guests the chance to find a new favorite. The seabura (back fat) ramen, despite its name, has a surprisingly delicate and light flavored soup to balance out its coarsely chopped noodles. For dinner, Sanjo-grown turmeric takes center stage with appearances in spicy chicken wings and a spicy cheese gratin. More robust fare, like black pork gyoza and kurumafu (a wheat gluten and flour dish), are well-matched with the local craft beers available. Among the offerings are pilsners from Echigo Beer, Japan’s first microbrewery, and Niigata Beer pale ales.

MURAKAMI: SEASONED SERVINGS Visit the castle town of Murakami in winter and you’ll be met with rows of salmon hanging from rooftops across town. The area’s specialty, shiobiki dried salmon, finds its place in an aged shiobiki dried salmon bento in this stand’s lunch menu, alongside Murakami’s other mainstay, Murakami beef. The beef bento is served on a bed of soft and chewy koshihikari rice from Iwafune. For dinner, try beef-on-a-stick, or a shiobiki salmon packet cooked in oil with shiitake mushrooms. For those with a sweet tooth, there’s a soft serve ice cream mixed with green tea powder and garnished with nuts, honey and a dash of salt.

NIIGATA SPECIALTIES AVAILABLE FOR A LIMITED TIME For a flavorful feast, make the Tabisuru Shintora Market a TOKAMACHI: ARTFUL must-visit this month as it’ll be your last chance to try these DELICACIES sumptuous Niigata specialties so close to home. From October, a Tokamachi’s artistic tendencies aren’t new set of cities will showcase reserved for their triennial outdoor their wares and dishes at the art festival, they’re also present in the market, but until then, Niigata city’s food culture. Hegi soba, a regional cuisine and beverages are yours specialty, is named for the hegi dish it’s for the taking. Accompanying the served on. The noodles are made using stands and their appetizing eats is funori seaweed, giving them a distinc- the Tabisuru store, with select- tively smooth yet firm texture. They are ed offerings, and the Tabisuru placed delicately on the hegi dish in bite café that serves dishes made size portions, making them a breeze to with Niigata-sourced, seasonal pick up and slurp down. Locally raised ingredients. Tsumari pork has a natural sweetness Tabisuru Shintora Market: that is enhanced when served with salt, Jul 5-Sep 29, shop and café: green onions and a squeeze of fresh Jul 5-Oct 1. Address: 2-16 lemon. Pair either dish with a locally Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku. produced dry, crisp sake. www.tabisuru-market.jp Looking for a great place to eat, shop, sleep or play in Tokyo? Welcome to Weekender's roundup of recommended restaurants, hotels, stores, salons and more. Here, we share this month's editor's picks, but for the full lineup – as well as reader discounts and special offers – simply head to www.tokyoweekender.com/the-concierge

Elana Jade Club 360 n need of some pampering? Elana Jade offers a range of deluxe lub 360 is Tokyo’s premier fitness and rehabilitation beauty treatments that will have you looking beautiful from center, offering personal training, physiotherapy, sports head to toe. All products used in our organic skincare lines are massage, exercise classes, boxing and various classes for delivered by internationally trained and experienced therapists. children. Whilst getting in shape, make sure you recover ISpecial offer: Get 20% off leg waxing (¥4,800 for half leg, ¥8,400 Cwith a sports massage from one of Club 360’s highly qualified thera- for full leg), valid until September 30. pists. Special offer: Mention Tokyo Weekender and receive your first personal training session for just ¥5,400. HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | www.club360.jp 03-6434-9667 B1 Cma3 Building, 3-1-35 Motoazabu, Minato-ku HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE EDITORS CHOICE

www.elanajade.com 03-6453-9319 4F NS Azabu Juban Building, 3-6-2 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku HOTELS | EDITORS CHOICE ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS CHOICE ABOUT

Owl Café Search

apan is famed for its wide variety of animal cafés, with owl cafés being one of the latest to join the lineup. This Jnew website provides all the infor- mation you need on where to find one of these feathery creatures to pet while sipping on a cuppa. Launching their English site this month, Owl Café Search lets you search by area, and includes details such as price, opening hours, and contact info for each café listed.

www.owlcafe-search.com

18 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Fujimoto Dental Clinic t this Ginza-based clinic, which was founded in 1981, you’ll not only receive world-class specialist restorative and per- iodontal dental care, but you’ll also be in the expert hands of Dr. Kohei Fujimoto. He is fluent in English, a graduate of Athe University of Washington’s Graduate Periodontics Program, and certified as a Diplomate of the American Board of Periodontology. Appointments can be made via phone. ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS CHOICE ABOUT

www.fujimoto-dental.com 03-5551-0051 4F Kami-Pulp Kaikan, 3-9-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku

Owl Café Search

WANT TO FEATURE YOUR ESTABLISHMENT IN THE CONCIERGE? For ad sales enquiries, please call 03-6432-9948 or email [email protected]

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 19 Looking for your next job in Japan? Weekender has teamed up with Sunny Side Up Career and Coto Work to bring you the latest professional opportunities

JAVA WEB DEVELOPER ENGINEERING CONSULTANT We are looking for a creative and self-motivated Java Web Developer Our company connects universities/research institutes and the who is interested in joining our Core Product Development team. real world, using virtual and real-world solutions. We are looking for a structural engineer who will be responsible for the design of Requirements: general architecture programs, supervision of designs, technical - 2+ years’ experience working in Java EE and with Spring innovation surrounding the construction field and structural design - Experience working with Web Services (REST or SOAP), XML, consulting work. MySQL, Hibernate and Apache Tomcat (Groovy is an advantage) - Basic knowledge of HTML, JQuery and Javascript Requirements: - Comfortable working with Linux and/or Windows - 5+ years’ experience in structural design - Permission to work in Japan - Experience in project and construction management - Languages: Spoken/written English and Japanese is an advantage - Experience in design/planning of wind power generation facilities (company is bilingual) - Languages: business-level Japanese

Location: Central Tokyo Location: Central Tokyo Salary: Competitive (based on experience) Salary: Competitive (based on experience)

CREATIVE DESIGNER BRAND COMMUNICATION ASSISTANT Triumph International is seeking a designer to deliver an ongoing Sloggi Japan is looking for a brand communication expert to lead and collection of product designs, in line with seasonal trends, our develop regional marketing programs. The role includes managing global creative vision, and our design DNA principles. The ideal the advertising and promotion budget, assisting with studying and candidate will be a team player, be able to travel frequently, have analyzing consumer trends, and activities such as digital marketing, strong communication skills, and possess exceptional consumer brand communication, retail marketing, brand merchandising, and and competitor understanding. . store design.

Requirements: Requirements: - 2/3+ years’ experience in intimate/apparel/fashion industries - 3+ years’ work experience - Trend researching experience - 3+ years’ brand or communication experience in apparel, retail, or - Design tech packing experience related industries is preferred - PLM system knowledge - Experience with products targeting age group 20s to 30s is - Fashion market knowledge preferable - CAD design skills: Photoshop/Illustrator - Analysis and proposal creation experience - University degree - University degree - Languages: business-level English and Japanese - Language: Japanese and basic English

Location: Triumph Tokyo office Location: Tokyo Salary: Competitive (based on experience) Salary: Competitive (based on experience

To apply for these jobs and view more opportunities, visit www.tokyoweekender.com/careers CONTEMPORARY CONNECTIONS We're having an existential moment: from capturing emotions on Tokyo's trains, to understanding the Japanese term that refers to our reason for being, and visiting a prophecy-serving café. Plus: the global rise of UFC, and how to fall for Osaka. THE FIGHTERS

Words by Bunny Bissoux As UFC Fight Night 117 in Japan approaches later this month, featuring one of the most exciting rematches in recent MMA history, we look at how the sport’s popularity has risen globally while declining in Japan – and the new local star who could help turn things around at home

t’s been two years since are set to face off again as current no. 7 ranking UFC holds its fifth live event light heavyweight in Japan at Saitama Super Ovince Saint Preux met Arena. Fans of the sport are no. 6 ranking Mauricio itching to find out: was Saint UFC 197: Jones v Saint Preux, Getty/Zuffa LLC “Shogun” Rua inside the Preux’s unexpected knockout Icage on the latter’s home a stroke of luck? Will he be turf in Brazil. Despite being able to endure a fight that a last-minute replacement might go five rounds? Look- as Shogun’s opponent and ing ahead to the rematch, having almost a decade the fighter tells Weekender: less fight experience than “I'm going to take it how I the Brazilian, Saint Preux can take it. If it goes all five stunned the masses when he rounds, I’m prepared to go knocked out Shogun, ending all five rounds, if I can do it the match in just 34 seconds in 34 seconds again, or even to take the win. This month, shorter than that, then I'll on September 23, the two take that too.”

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 23 UFC 198: Shogun v Anderson , Getty/Zuffa LLC

THE INFAMOUS 1976 WRESTLER VS. BOXER FIGHT BETWEEN ANTONIO INOKI AND MUHAMMAD ALI MAY HAVE BEEN A DISASTER IN TERMS OF EXECUTION, BUT THE AUDIENCE’S FASCINATION WAS UNDENIABLE

his is the kind of unpredictable excitement that captivates both fans’ and fighters’ passion for MMA (mixed martial arts) – compelling, real fights where anything can happen. T A precursor to modern MMA was the vale tudo (“anything goes”) tournaments in Brazil where fighters from different back- grounds and disciplines would compete against each other in full contact combat UFC Fight Night: Saint Preux v Oezdemir, Getty/Zuffa LLC with few rules or regulations. Since the 1960s the legendary Gracie family has been at the center of the scene, setting out to prove that Brazilian jiu-jitsu was the strong- est and most effective style of fighting, later bringing vale tudo to the US and Japan. Japan itself has a unique and signifi- cant history of martial arts – a long lineage holding the origins of karate, judo and Japanese jiu-jitsu – but it’s in pro wrestling that Japanese MMA has its earliest roots. The infamous 1976 “wrestler vs. boxer” fight between Antonio Inoki and Muham- mad Ali may have been a disaster in terms of execution, but the audience’s fascination was undeniable. A combination of hard hit- ting “strong style” matches and many of the wrestlers’ martial arts backgrounds made the perfect breeding ground for crossovers and offshoots to develop. The 90s and early 2000s saw now defunct Japanese promotion companies such as Pancrase, Shooto and Pride evolving In the early 1990s the term “mixed and sent many of their athletes overseas. rapidly, gaining attention from abroad, and martial arts” was widely adopted, and On the brink of bankruptcy, UFC was sold to at their peak even garnering national televi- cemented by the foundation of the Ul- Zuffa LLC in 2001 for $2 million. Through sion coverage for annual sold out events on timate Fighting Championship (UFC) in increased advertising, media deals and New Year’s Eve. A Japanese icon emerged 1993. While the Japanese scene had been a focus on global expansion, slowly and in the form of Kazushi Sakuraba whose flourishing, MMA’s early development in steadily the company built up its reputation. impressive overseas victories included wins the States was plagued by criticism of its New safety measures were enforced, pay per over several members of the prestigious overt violence, struggles with regulations, view events increased, and each year they Gracie clan, giving fans a hero to champion legal difficulties and broadcasting issues, advanced into new territories, buying out on an international level. which stagnated the growth of the industry smaller, struggling promotions and develop-

24 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER (11 wins, 0 losses). Inoue made his UFC de- Whether or not Japan’s fascination with but in Singapore earlier this year, defeating MMA can be rebuilt still remains to be seen, fellow newcomer Carls John de Tomas. This but there is little doubt that UFC’s brand month he takes on the Philippines’ Jenel will continue to expand and evolve in the Lausa with a home crowd cheering for him coming years. “We are fortunate to have as he hopes to maintain his flawless record. been the pioneers in the sport – it was UFC Inoue is understandably excited to be who established all the rules, established fighting at the Super Arena, a venue where the weight classes, [and] established the so many legendary MMA events have been way it’s judged and scored,” says Chang. held. “I've never actually been there before, “Of course we can’t lose the authenticity of but I can tell from watching on TV that it's this being MMA, to be able to incorporate really big, so of course I'm very nervous,” all the different disciplines and to give no he tells Weekender. The UFC has yet to have discipline a particular advantage; those an Asian champion, but Inoue isn’t thinking things are going to be cemented, but the too much about the mounting pressure on safety of our athletes is paramount so we’re his shoulders. “It would be great if I can also always working on ways to make this keep winning, and if that results in more competition safer as we go forward.” Japanese people watching me and more UFC’s global domination doesn’t seem to Japanese fans, then of course that would be be under threat, and an enduring appetite the best for me ... I’ve decided I’m going to for MMA has shown this is a sport that tran- stick with MMA my whole life; I don't know scends all cultural boundaries and unites what will happen, but I’m just going to keep billions of avid fans across the world. doing my best.” Ovince Saint Preux sums it up: “The UFC Vice President of Asia Pacific opportunity for mixed martial arts and UFC Kevin Chang is well aware of the necessity itself is endless; everybody loves to watch it. to showcase “homegrown heroes” at their Mixed martial arts is like ‘you put your best events in Japan. “The fans in Japan are fighter versus my best fighter, and let’s see very sophisticated ... we have a fan base who’s going to win.’ You’ve had that stuff that knows what good MMA is, and what going on since the gladiator days ... it’s a ing an increasingly diverse roster of talent other fake combat sports are; they know the natural human instinct.” as fan numbers snowballed. Sixteen years difference between those things and they later the company is valued at $4.2 billion, know who the stars are,” he says. “They and the name UFC has become synonymous know that all the best fighters in the world UFC Fight Night Japan: Shogun vs. Saint with MMA everywhere. compete in the UFC ... this is as real as it Preux will be held on September 23 at Saita- Meanwhile, Japanese companies began gets. It’s encouraging that we feel like we ma Super Arena. For more information and to lose their top fighters to Western promo- have [Japanese] athletes with the potential to purchase tickets, visit hyperurl.co/UFC- tions and struggled to keep hold of fans’ at- to rise to the top here too.” fightnightjapan tention as a string of scandals and closures UFC Fight Night: Saint Preux v Rogerio De Lima, Getty/Zuffa LLC around the mid-2000s caused the popularity of the sport in Japan to decline. An aging Sakuraba could no longer match his former victories, fans’ attention shifted to other sports, and MMA in Japan slipped back almost entirely underground. In a country where there was once such a wealth of home grown interest, can the sport ever return to its former glory days, and if so, will UFC have any significant part to play in its revival?

THE FUTURE FACE OF MMA IN JAPAN Just a few months after Sakuraba was hon- ored with an induction into the UFC Hall of Fame (in July 2017), the upcoming card fea- tures a lineup of some of Asia’s top fighters alongside a handful of fresh newcomers. The chance for a rising star with potential to be the future face of MMA in Japan is epitomized in 20-year-old flyweight Naoki Inoue and his impressive 11-0 MMA record

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 25 COFFEE AND PROPHECY

The curious case of a Tokyo café serving mes- take over. You have a great business pros- sages from God – you may have to queue to get pect. Don’t think that you are small. You can in, but you may just leave feeling more at peace imagine your territory in Japan or overseas. I will give you whatever you want. I am going Words by Michael Lanigan to give you the new strategy, you are a pio- neer,’ said the Lord.” o you want the Prophetic Mes- most of whom are not here for a social call. This is not coming from any recognizable sage?” the waitress asks, handing Likely they are here because it gives a coffee Biblical passages. In a sense, it feels like a me a menu. Coffee costs ¥800 break dual functions: caffeine and self- here at Yogen Cafe, but it comes improvement. with complimentary biscotti, Many customers come alone. Company Da short Christian prophecy, and no seating is provided upon arrival in the form of a charge. So in a way, it’s getting value for staff member who joins you as the orders your money through the sides. are served. The customers sit and listen The interior is predominantly red and intently to the wait staff who begin mutter- white. There’s an exposed brick wall on ing quickly into various recording devices. which a large white cross has been mounted. Prophesizing softly, the diatribes are barely Pour-over coffee pots, percolators and coffee audible over the sound of a gentle operatic table books line the shelves at the entrance. aria playing and the regular grinding On each table is a small book espousing the of beans. cafe’s doctrine using that same minimal As the waitress returns with my coffee, color scheme, which in book form shares a she takes a seat, clasps my phone in both certain resemblance with the artwork from hands and starts chanting. “The Lord said, Takashi Miike’s film Love Exposure. ‘This is a new season for you. The old cycle is Stowed away on a foodie street in the broken. The new cycle is coming. You don’t Minato district of Tokyo, by all accounts was need to struggle any more. Give me your it not for the crucifix, Yogen could pass for burden, your problems.’” any standard coffee house. Its customer base For three minutes, she talks uninterrupt- ranges from housewives to business folk, ed. “I am going to give you new territory to

26 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER form of Christian-based fortune-telling akin to how, in the West, Buddhism is co-opted and cherry picked for its more favorable aspects by those who identify as spiritual, but resist organized religion. The majority of the clientele are “non- believers,” the waitress says. “They are not satisfied spiritually. They are hungry. They are thirsty.” Whether the café actually succeeds in creating converts though, she is uncertain. However, through meticulous A few people said their friend or family book-keeping, as all customers are required member couldn’t come. So they asked if to sign in prior to entry, the owners do pride we could meet and do it in a Starbucks.” themselves on the fact that most people tend Agreeing, the results proved positive. to return several times. Assuming conversion “Then, I asked non-Christian people on the is the general end-game, then the café is re- streets if they want the prophecy and they markable in how logically it has approached were so happy with it too.” the task of tackling the dwindling Christian Upon returning to Tokyo, “the lease population in Japan today, estimated at one on the building where I had my church percent, or half what it was in the 1990s. ended. So I needed to leave for a new place.” This vision of merging consumerism and ALMOST ALL Considering the success of the Starbucks conversion stems from the mind of Kazuyo sessions, she came up with the idea for the Yoshida, the café’s main prophet. Churches JAPANESE PEOPLE café-church. are too closed off for Japanese people to feel Pitching her idea to Sawka, who saw comfortable approaching is her main argu- GO TO SOME KIND nothing in the Bible that denounced coffee, ment, but “they ought to consider this faith OF FORTUNE TELLER they went ahead with it and started on a since Japanese people have the right emotions sound footing. This, she credits to her par- for Christianity.” They are apparently far too ents. “They were in the restaurant business, enamored by “spiritualism,” an umbrella so I knew about coffee.” term she uses to refer to Buddhism, Shinto- The café in Akasaka was the first to ism, fortune-telling and crystal healing. understanding about what spirituality is.” open. “On day one, there were three people. “Almost all Japanese people go to some kind There is a story circulating on a Then five. Then 50 after some media people of fortune teller. Some people think the Lord’s website run by Ron Sawka, the leader of came.” Once those numbers continued prophecy is like spiritual stuff, but after they the Arise 5 church under whom Yoshida growing, a larger space was required and a receive our prophecy, they gain a different set up her café, claiming that at one point shop in Shinjuku was arranged. several fortune tellers entered one of the Sitting in said branch, with in excess coffee houses. So impressed were they by of 50 customers and not a single table left the prophecies that they urged their own unoccupied, I ask again why a prophetic clients to pay a visit. “These people gave café could have such success in attracting their lives to spiritualism. Then they came non-Christians. “I cannot say I am the light, here,” she says looking around. “Now they but I breathe the Bible,” Kazuyo replies. are at peace.” Some joined the church. A This, she believes is what impresses the cus- few were hired as staff. “It is not so unusu- tomers and opens them up to Christianity. al,” she adds with matter-of-fact pride. At the same time, such a statement could be Born in Kyushu and raised a Bud- made by any preacher. What she also has on dhist, Kazuyo was baptized at the age of her side is good service and a blessed reima- 23 in 1987 with her husband. In 1995, she gining of the age-old policy, “the customer is was ordained as a minister, and thereaf- always right.” ter she began working with Ron Sawka. “If the customer isn’t happy, that’s not “I live in Tochigi, but Ron wanted our God. That’s me. When people ask ‘How do church to be in Tokyo too.” The café was you know my situation?’ I say ‘I don’t know. conceived during this period as a result That is from God’ and they say, ‘that is the of two separate events. The first was a good stuff.’” seminar that Kazuyo spoke at in Okinawa during 2002. “I was giving the prophecy. For more information visit yogencafe.com

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 27 IS “IKIGAI” THE SECRET TO HAPPINESS?

Words by Bunny Bissoux

Possibly the next buzzword to come out of Japan, ikigai refers to one’s reason for being, and is the subject of two new books being released this month. But can it really help to change your life?

he latest life philosophy hitting the Western finding purpose and satisfaction in our daily lives. world is based on the Japanese principle of This month sees two new books on the subject ikigai. Maybe you already know your hygge released in English, offering a wealth of information from your feng shui, but this one won’t require and advice for the mildly curious or the serious seeker investing in scented candles, rearranging your of happiness. Until now, the concept has generally been Tfurniture, meditating, or picking up objects and deciding summarized for foreign audiences in the straightforward whether they spark joy or not. The Japanese word ikigai form of a Venn diagram, with four important aspects originates from the kanji for iki meaning “life” and kai overlapping: What you love, what you’re good at, what meaning “worth and value,” roughly translated into Eng- the world needs, and what you can be paid to do. Through lish as “a purpose for living” or basically “a reason to get looking closely at your passions, occupation, vocation up in the morning.” Before the cynics shrug off the idea of and mission, you can apparently discover your central such a grand promise of self-discovery, you should know purpose: your ikigai. that ikigai is fairly undemanding yet fundamental in its The diagram is perhaps a rather simplistic route to teachings – simply figuring out what makes us happy and enlightenment, but deeper insight can be found by under-

28 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER standing the significance and practicalities of ikigai for the Japanese people themselves. Ken Mogi’s The Little Book of Ikigai is an excellent place to start. Mogi is a neuroscien- tist and bestselling Japanese writer, having published over 30 papers and around 100 books in Japan, and earning himself a devout social media following for his down to earth and accessible mix of science, sociology and philosophy. Following the devastating 2011 earthquake, Mogi was the first Japanese speaker invited to give an overseas TED talk, in which he spoke about Japanese psycholo- gy, community spirit and the nation’s ability to maintain a positive outlook. He has an insider perspective coupled with a rational scientific background, so when it comes to tips for living well, his are certainly trustwor- thy hands to be in. The Little Book of Ikigai explores tra- ditional values through personal accounts, historical facts and storytelling whilst helping the reader discover how ikigai can contrib- ute to happiness, success and financial gain, tackling the cognitive factors involved at the same time. Mogi puts great emphasis on the presence of ikigai in pastimes and hobbies, and his inclusive approach reinforces that your life’s purpose doesn’t have to be as am- bitious as striving for a Nobel Prize. It could be found in your career (whether you’re a cleaner or a CEO doesn’t matter), or in raising a family, but it can also be seen in the passion of trainspotters, the affinity of an amateur sports team or the fulfilment of practicing ever, the notion of instructional books or arts and crafts. Finding and acknowledging diagrams is quite an unnecessary approach the pleasure and the satisfaction in small BUY THE BOOKS to ikigai. Ayano, a web designer in Tokyo details is important to our daily joy. Taking explains: “I think we don’t talk about ‘what the time to complete tasks properly, having is our ikigai’ that much. I keep that inside of gratitude for people who help us, recognizing myself ... of course not all Japanese people modest achievements, supporting others – all live their life this way, but if we find some of these things contribute to the motivation ikigai, then we can overcome some of the and harmony that’s felt in Japan. difficulties and challenges in our life.” She Offering a slightly different perspec- continues: “We are raised to think that we tive, the authors of Ikigai – The Japanese can do even difficult tasks because of ikigai, Secret for a Long and Happy Life spent and ikigai in turn makes us happy when we several months in Okinawa, interviewing do things.” locals and compiling their research. Hector Naoki, an IT technician, suggests it’s not Garcia, a long-term resident of Japan, and so much something Japanese people look for award-winning author Francesc Miralles as something that’s already there, but adds, unlock the secrets of the islanders’ incred- “To be honest, it’s more common to hear the word used like the punchline in a joke. For ible health – they boast some of the longest IKIGAI: The Japanese Secret to a Long and example: a tired businessman finally gets lifespans on the planet – and happiness. The Happy Life by Hector Garcia and Francesc to the bar late at night, drinks his first sip of writers narrow down their findings to 10 Miralles is published by Hutchinson, and is conclusive “rules of ikigai,” covering general available on Amazon Japan from beer and says ‘this is my ikigai!’ ... Actually good advice from staying active in old age to September 7 for ¥1,993. maybe that’s not really a joke...” smiling more and living in the moment, with Regardless of how seriously you want to a few more specific suggestions like living take it, there is undoubtedly some benefit to harmoniously with nature or hara hachi stopping and taking a look at our lives. You bu – only eating until you are 80% full. Their don’t need to make drastic changes; just take recipe for happiness must be good cooking: a minute to consider and be mindful of what the Spanish and Dutch editions have already you already have. There is certainly a lot of made it to their respective bestseller lists. inspiration that might encourage us to deal It seems the outside world’s fascination with some of our own issues of selfishness, with Japan’s ancient and traditional ways con- fickleness and daily dissatisfaction. For tinues to captivate, perhaps aided by a global those on board with ikigai, the secret to hap- obsession with a search for personal longevity. piness lies not in dramatic adjustments or And now that the publishing world is shining momentous achievements, but in acknowl- a light on this unique aspect of Japanese edging the small pleasures of daily life, and culture, this single word may well become the better appreciating our surroundings. For the Japanese it seems the mere existence of umbrella term for all Japanese-inspired advice THE LITTLE BOOK OF IKIGAI: The Japanese the word brings a measure of happiness – so relating to living a long and fulfilling life. Guide to Finding Your Purpose in Life by Ken perhaps that’s a good place to start. For most people born in Japan, how- Mogi is published by Quercus, and is availa- ble on Amazon Japan for ¥1,463.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 29 OSAKA ON TWO WHEELS By James Wong

The best way to explore Japan’s third largest city: by bicycle

s autumn kicks in and temperatures vorite among Japan connoisseurs – the people start to cool down, conditions get who take the time to look beyond the surface better for venturing out of Tokyo and therefore fall madly in love with the place and exploring other parts of Japan’s and its hidden wonders. It has an atmosphere beautiful diversity. With over 2.6 quite unlike anywhere else I know, and it’s on millionA inhabitants, Osaka is the third largest our tours that our passion is echoed and people city in the country and a long-time rival of To- delve a little deeper,” Sam explains. kyo for good reason, as it is filled with an abun- dance of sights, sounds and tastes to uncover. THE TIME IS FALL One of the city’s top tourist attractions is Cycle Autumn is the best time to fall in love with Osa- Osaka, a cycle tour operator launched in 2013 ka. The need to hop from one air-conditioned that has rapidly gained popularity and has been room to another is replaced by the freedom to recognized as TripAdvisor’s number one out- enjoy life outdoors, sweat-free. Sam explains door activity in Osaka. Founder Sam Crofts tells how Osakans breathe a collective sigh of relief us why visitors all over the world are flocking to and set about really enjoying one of the best enjoy his beloved city on two wheels. times of the year in the city. “So much happens in fall. First, there’s the SCRATCHING BELOW Kishiwada Danjiri festival, where intoxicated teams compete with each other, pulling huge THE SURFACE portable shrines through the neighborhood Beyond famous attractions such as Osaka streets – you really have to see it to believe it! Castle and the Dotonbori shopping area, Osaka As the season progresses, moon viewing par- struggles to capture certain visitors who often ties and harvest festivals are common before complain about its lack of visual uniqueness. the leaves turn and the locals shift their atten- However, they’re failing to see the whole tion to the changing colors,” says Sam. “When historical and cultural picture. “Osaka is a fa- foliage viewing becomes the main event, Osaka

30 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER SAM’S TOP FOUR CYCLING SPOTS IN OSAKA

TSURUHASHI STREET MARKET “This is where old meets new and Korea meets Japan. is mercifully free from the legions The market is on the edge of one of of tourists descending upon more Japan’s biggest Korean neighborhoods popular spots in Kyoto and Tokyo.” and is alive with amazing food, fun peo- From the shocking yellow gingko ple and an atmosphere unlike any other trees of Midosuji Avenue to the rusty in the city.” oranges of Osaka Castle Park and the deep red maple leaves of Minoh UTSUBO Park, the Osaka area is filled with PARK color and can be enjoyed (as with “Small but per- most things in Osaka) at a slightly fectly formed, more relaxed pace, and with a distinctly this is where local vibe. young couples Fall treats in Osaka come in the shape of YOU GET TO SEE and families deep fried maple leaves, or momiji tempura. spend their summer afternoons, frolick- Sam recommends getting them from Minoh, REAL LIFE GOING ing in the fountains, drinking cold beers also home to Osaka’s most famous craft beer on the lawn and taking selfies in the brewery. “The short walk from the station ON IN BETWEEN rose garden.” up towards the forest is lined with hawkers selling the seasonal snack, which goes per- THE MAJOR TENMA fectly with a local brew after a hike up to the “A labyrinth of waterfall.” LANDMARKS bars, izakayas and restaurants BICYCLE DISCOVERIES – the streets Prior to forming Cycle Osaka, many of Sam’s around Tenma Station make own city discoveries were made while out cycle over taking the train? Sam points for a great evening of bar hopping. Post- cycling. “I’ve stumbled across all my favorite out that it’s all about the details: “With work crowds from the business district eateries on bike, and made some amazing cycling, you get to see real life going on mix with local residents, with many finds like Nintendo’s original 1889 head- in between the major landmarks, from places spilling onto the streets, making quarters! One night, from talking to a tourist school kids practicing sports and old it all a great spectacle.” in a bar about cycle tours, we realized they ladies grocery shopping to business peo- didn’t exist in Osaka and I ended up creating ple rushing between meetings. Catching MINOH my own.” But why should tourists choose to them while riding by gives you a really FOREST unique flavor for the personality and “Completely not character of the city you would otherwise what you think miss if you just went by train.” of when you A PASSION FOR OSAKA imagine Osaka. Minoh is only Despite Cycle Osaka’s booming populari- about 20 minutes out of town but is a ty, Sam keeps the business to a close-knit full-on forest complete with temples, team of five. “The vibe is not a traditional ancient trees and a huge waterfall. A guide/tourist relationship but more a walk from the station to the end of the group of friends enjoying a day out, some path and back takes a couple of hours good food and each other’s company. but is a great way to spend a morning in There’s a good balance of amazing food, the fresh air to de-city yourself.” must-see sites and our own personal favorites or secret spots along the way.” Photos and pedaling aside, expect the GETTING TO OSAKA fun factor to feature heavily. “You’ll meet all kinds of people on the tours: we get Tokyo (Tokyo and Shinagawa stations) and groups of friends, couples, solo travelers Osaka (Shin-Osaka Station) are connected and families. Everyone is keen to explore by the JR Tokaido Shinkansen (english. and just have a great time. Some people jr-central.co.jp), the easiest and most con- have actually made long-lasting friend- venient way to travel to and from Osaka. ships on our tours and that really is the Most domestic flights depart from Haneda spirit of our adventure together.” Airport to Osaka's Itami Airport (ITM). Overnight buses are the cheapest way to Cycle Osaka offers full and half day go, and can be booked via Willer Express city tours and food tours. Visit (willerexpress.com/en). www.cycleosaka.com for more details.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 31 GACKT THE MUSICIAN AND ACTOR ON HIS NEW FILM, WHICH IS SET FOR RELEASE THIS MONTH; WHY PEOPLE ARE SO DISCONNECTED THESE DAYS; AND WHY HE REFUSES TO PLACE HIMSELF IN A BOX Words by Matthew Hernon

ove or loathe him, there's no denying Gackt has a real pres- ence when he walks into a room. A huge name in the entertainment industry who has had more consecutive top 10 hits than any solo male artist in Japanese history, he strolls in for our interview in Okinawa with a swagger, then demands quiet from his man- agement team, before sitting down to field questions about his latest film Karanukan. It's his first starring role since Moon Child (a movie Gackt also wrote) back in 2003. He has focused more on his music since then, yet doesn't see this as some kind of comeback. "I never quit acting," he tells us. "I've been in a number of films and dramas in recent years, just not as the lead. I've had offers, but because of music commitments I had to turn them down. Filming for Karanukan was right after I finished a tour so it was timed to perfection." Directed by Yasuhiro Hamano, it is a mysterious and spiritual story set on the idyllic island of Yaeyama in Okinawa. Gackt plays an internation- ally acclaimed photographer named Hikaru Ooyama who has moved away from Tokyo to be closer to nature and find something more meaningful in life. On the island, he becomes enchanted by a young girl named Maumi (Suzuka Kimura). While taking her photograph, he is struck down by a beam of light and she disappears. As Hikaru searches the island for her, his infatuation grows stronger. "I wouldn't say I’m similar to my character, but I can understand his way of thinking," Gackt tells us. "He has succeeded in his profession, yet become tired of his surroundings. Like him I also don't like big cities, though I wouldn't go as far as to suddenly move out to the country. I'm quite a calm and settled person, whereas he is lost and restless. He Gackt in a scene from Karanukan,Gackt (c)2017 "Karanukan" Production Committee

people tend to be tours extensively, and from the outside apathetic towards looking in, seems to prioritize his music religion, Okinawans above everything else. So finally, does he see are quite unique. himself as more of a singer than an actor? Some, like my fami- "I do not categorize myself as either," ly, choose to vener- Gackt says. "There is no need to place oneself ate ancestors, while in a box or make career choices based on that others believe there distinction. When I'm on stage or in a film I are gods all around am trying to convey my thoughts and feelings us, in the ocean, to the audience. So, in short, I wouldn't say I trees, mountains and was an actor or singer; I'm an expressionist." so on. Having a rela- Karanukan is on in Tokyo this month. tionship with these (c) OIMF 2017 gods is very natural. It's a bit like being grateful for what we have. This kind of veneration has no detailed theory or clearly defined ritu- als. It is simply about a love of nature." Different from the stereotypical Japanese celebrity, Gackt comes across as a deep-thinking individual who's prepared to share his views on a wide range WHAT’S IT LIKE TO of topics and isn't afraid to rock the boat. The WORK WITH GACKT? LOOK AROUND TOKYO blog he posted in 2015 about experiencing AND YOU WILL SEE racial discrimination at a restaurant in Paris Suzuka Kimura, who plays Gackt's love received widespread press attention, as did interest Maumi in Karanukan, admits PEOPLE WHO AREN'T his criticism of the government regarding its it was a pretty daunting experience lack of support for the entertainment indus- turning up for the first day of shooting. A SATISFIED AND try in Japan. new face in the industry, she had previ- BASICALLY DON'T FEEL The latter is an issue that still concerns ously never appeared in a movie, drama him. Gackt appeared in the 2011 Hollywood or even short film before. The fact that ANYTHING film Bunraku alongside the likes of Josh she would be working alongside a big- Hartnett, Demi Moore and Woody Harrelson, name star like Gackt naturally added to which had a budget of $25 million. It wasn't the nerves. huge by American standards, but it was "I was looking for modeling work left the capital to reconnect with something astronomical compared to most Japanese and hadn't had much, then I was told essential.” flicks, includingKaranukan . The 44-year-old about this audition that was being held "Look around Tokyo and you will see peo- entertainer doesn't expect movies here to be at the Okinawa International Movie Fes- ple who aren't satisfied and basically don't competing with those kind of numbers, but tival," Kimura tells us. "I thought why not feel anything," he continues. "It's a sickness, does believe help should be given from above give it a go. There were around 700 girls, not only in Japan, but around the world. As to try and close the gap. and I didn't really feel anything would technology advances we become more dis- "In movies abroad, especially in Holly- come of it, so it was a huge surprise connected from each other. The information wood, the production and budget is large when I got the call.” flows from one person to another, yet there is compared to anything made in Japan," Gackt “Doing the audition in front of all no real communication. There's an empti- says. "Here, the schedule is tight in terms of those people was pretty terrifying, but I ness in people's hearts and that is why some filming days and things are generally more think I was shaking even more when we city dwellers choose to move to places like difficult. That doesn't mean I don't like work- started filming. Meeting Gackt for the Iriomote [one of the main islands of Yaeyama ing on Japanese films. It's great collaborating first time was kind of surreal. Having used in the film]." with talented people who are making the best seen him on television quite a bit, I had Gackt has been all over Okinawa, yet this of what is a difficult situation.” this impression that he would be scary. was his first time to visit that particular area "The problem is when you look at the He wasn’t at all, though, and was really and says he was "blown away by its beauty." movie industry here as a whole. I get the helpful throughout. In fact, all the cast Born and raised in Japan's southernmost impression that the profits are low and it’s and crew were. It was a very happy set.” prefecture, he is a man who's clearly very getting worse. I find that very worrying. I So, what did Gackt make of Kimura’s proud of his heritage. As well as good timing, think the Japanese government should be performance? “If Karanukan had been the opportunity to work near his hometown doing more to support entertainment indus- a classic film with the use of classical was one of the main reasons he accepted the tries, not only when it comes to movies, but Japanese, it could have been harder for role in Karanukan. also music as well. her as it is her very first role,” he says. "It has always been one of my ambitions Given the choice, Gackt would prefer to “However, in this film she played a girl to do something like this in Okinawa and give work on a production outside of Japan rather from Okinawa and when she spoke her something back to the community. I think a than anything domestic, though he admits intonation was different. It worked well lot of people from the island feel the same," not too many offers have been forthcoming. in that context. She is only a beginner, he says. "It's a special and spiritual place. In When he does receive them his busy schedule but I believe she can mature and grow a country like Japan where, on the whole, usually makes it impossible to accept. He to become an important actress.” LIFE IN TRANSIT Instead of highlighting jam-packed rush hours and haggard commuters, photographer Charles Levie focuses his lens on the subtle moments on Tokyo’s trains that reveal the inner world of his subjects

Words by Alec Jordan. Photographs by Charles Levie

he celebrated Scottish to the West in the 1850s. Cars would merchant Thomas Blake become popular in Japan during the Glover was responsible 1960s, but by that time the impor- for setting the wheels of tance of trains – as a means of getting Japan’s first locomotive from city to city and within the city – Tin motion, back in 1868 on a short had already been cemented. In many test track near the city of Nagasaki. ways, rails set the rhythm of how Four years later, a train line began people work, shop, and play in this running the 53-minute trip between country. Tokyo and Yokohama. Given the many hours that Jap- Trains would become a crucial anese people spend on trains every part of Japanese life within a matter day, it’s only natural that a certain of decades, with rail systems making kind of train etiquette would develop. their way to Kyushu by 1889 and as Of course, there’s the matter of loose far north as Aomori by 1891. All of rules – no talking on your cell phone, this work was done in the spirit of generally no eating – but within modernizing Japan – a process that those constraints, there are countless began with the country’s opening instants when people reveal elements

34 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER of their personalities: an older man taking a wistful look out of the train window on a November afternoon, or a young woman oblivious to the world and caught up during a dramatic moment in her book. It’s moments like these that Charles Levie manages to cap- ture. A mathematics teacher at Zama American High School, and the president of the Camp Zama Photography Club, the Baltimore native has taken Tokyo area train riders as one of his primary photographic subjects. As far as he’s concerned, Japan simply wouldn’t run without its trains: “The life blood of Japan is its trains. Japan could exist without cars, and even the absence of planes could be tolerated for a while, but if the trains stopped for a day, the country would go into cardiac arrest. The circulatory system of this country is

THE CIRCULATORY SYSTEM OF THIS COUNTRY IS THE NETWORK OF TRAIN LINES THAT CONNECT THE PEOPLE TO ALL ASPECTS OF THEIR LIVES

the network of train lines that connect the people to all aspects of their lives.” Levie believes that Japan is generally a friendly country when it comes to taking peo- ples’ photographs, but he does his best to stay unobtrusive when shooting subjects on the train. Like the riders themselves, he’s estab- lished a few rules for himself when he’s work- ing on his projects: “My first rule is that the train must have a certain level of occupancy … If [the train] is too crowded, there will not be a clear line of sight to the subject. If the train is too empty, you and your camera become too obvious. Secondly it is always good to travel with friends. When I enter a train car with friends, I usually sit opposite them, not beside them. If I see something interesting to pho- tograph, I begin taking photos of my friends, which people notice and dismiss as acceptable. While I am ‘photographing’ my friend, I set my zoom and focusing dot to where I need them, and this lets me quickly change angles

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 35 and inconspicuously take a few shots of the true person of interest in the car.” Levie has been shooting since he was in high school, but he didn’t immediately have these techniques at hand when he first started shooting on trains, which meant that he got a lot of one particular kind of picture: “When I initially began this portfolio, my collection con- sisted mainly of people on their phones. These are the low hanging fruit of train photography. It took me a while to develop the tools needed to capture the more interesting aspects of the life of the Japanese on their trains.”

YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN THAT PERFECT SCENE WILL PRESENT ITSELF IN A TRAIN

Once in a while, every street philosophy is based on capturing photographer is going to be a "decisive moment" with a cam- caught in the act of taking some- era, a moment of time that will one’s picture, and Levie has as never happen again, and it’s an well, but he thinks that a friendly, idea that he has taken to heart. open approach is best. “I believe So his most emphatic recommen- being a foreigner gives you more dation to all aspiring photogra- freedom, if you are polite. You phers is to always be prepared, are expected to be a little more because you never know when outgoing, and as long as you are you might come across an instant respectful, you can photograph that's ripe for the capturing when almost anything ... Many times you’re away from home: “Always I show people their photos after have your camera with you. The I’ve taken them, and I want them worst feeling in the world for a Many people might associate the trains around Tokyo with to take joy in their new photo. photographer is to see something crowds, grueling rush hour commutes, and people in a hurry – and Hopefully they see themselves in magnificent to photograph and many photographers gravitate towards these images – but Levie’s a way that pleases them.” realize your camera is on your project helps us see the beauty of life on the trains: “Japan has As Levie explains, the cele- desk at home. You never know beautiful buildings, fantastic shrines and temples, and of course the brated French street photogra- when that perfect scene will pres- iconic Fuji-san. For me, however, the true splendor of this country is pher Henri Cartier-Bresson is one ent itself in a train, so make sure the people and their culture. The place where this is most exempli- of his heroes. Cartier-Bresson’s your camera is by your side.” fied is on the trains.”

36 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER

Félicien Rops [designer], Albert Bertrand [engraver], Pornocrates, 1896, colored engraving on paper, Musée Rops, Namur , Belgium

FOLLOW US Looking for a roundup of art exhibitions, a digest of what's going on around town, and a chance to spend time with Tokyo's glitterati? We won't lead you astray...

TOKYOTOKYOTOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDER WEEKENDER WEEKENDER WEEKENDER | | SEPTEMBER |SEPTEMBER DECEMBER | MARCH 2017 20172016 | | 37 37 From the workshop of Hieronymus Bosch “Tondal’s Vision” 1490-1500, oil on wood © Fundación Lázaro Galdiano ART

FANTASTIC ART IN BELGIUM

One of the reasons the otherworldly art that has come out of what is now known as Belgium since the 15th century is so engrossing – think of the surreal visions of Hieronymus Bosch and the Brueghels – is that it is grounded in realistic, pictorial detail, a tradition that goes back to the Middle Ages. Taking the work of Northern Renaissance artists as a starting point, this exhibit covers 500 years of art history, making its way to the iconic images of René Magritte and even more recent exponents of the “Belgian bizarre.” The Bunkamura Museum of Art Until September 24 www.bunkamura.co.jp/english/museum THE ART WORLD OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS

Compiled by Alec Jordan ©BOWIE TV No. 1 1981 by JOHN DOVE and MOLLY WHITE, Screenprint

SENSIBILITY AND WONDER: JOHN DOVE & MOLLY WHITE “The T-shirt belongs to everyone – part of a universal language – more personal than a pop poster, more poignant than a song.” These are the words of artist John Dove and textile designer Molly White, and they ought to know a thing or two about the gar- ment – they were some of first people to silk screen T-shirts, back in 1968. The husband-and-wife team’s edgy imagery has influenced designers like Vivienne Westwood and found favor from such rock icons of the 70s as Mick Jagger, Iggy Pop, and Sid Vicious. This exhibit features an array of their screen prints, collages, and sculptures. Diesel Art Gallery Until November 9 www.diesel.co.jp/art/en

38 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Tulipa ‘Bisard Adelaar’ (Tulip, Liliaceae) Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

UEMURA SHŌEN AND QUINTESSENTIAL BIJINGA, PAINTINGS OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN

About her own work, she said, “my earnest hope is that all my works are like fragrant jewels, always with a sense of fresh purity, never with even an iota of the vulgar.” Her real name was Uemura Tsune, but this nihonga (traditional Jap- anese painting) artist worked under the pseudonym Shōen, which was granted to her by a teacher out of respect for her remarkable talent. Her subject of choice was mostly bijin (beautiful women), and this exhibition features many of Uemura’s creations, ukiyo-e prints, and modern nihonga works that are dedicated to both changing styles and eternal beauty. Yamatane Museum of Art Until October 22 www.yamatane-museum.jp/english

THE GOLDEN AGE OF BOTANICAL ART – FLOWERS FROM THE COLLECTIONS OF THE ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW

Before the development of photography, one of the only ways to document botanical specimens was by sketching or painting them, and the works that grew out of this tradition are not just scientifically precise, they’re also aesthetically captivating. This collection of pieces from the renowned Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, is paired with botanical samples from the University of Tokyo. The exhibition is the first in the Intermediatheque’s Natural History Series, which aims to depict both the beauty and the richness of the scientific world.Intermediatheque September 16– December 3 www.intermediatheque.jp/en Uemura Shōen, Tedious Hours, Color on Silk, Shōwa Period, 1941, Yamatane Museum of Art

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 39 1 3

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AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN SEPTEMBER

1 SEP 8-24 2 SEP 16-30 3 SEP 6-19 4 SEP 17 FINDING NEVERLAND MANGEKYO KIMONO TANGO THE PIRATES OF TOKYO BAY This hit Broadway musical tells Produced by percussion performance Recycle brand Kimono Tango Regular monthly bilingual improv the incredible tale of how Peter art group Drum Tao, this sensory transforms vintage silk kimono comedy night in Ebisu. Each show became Pan. The story follows experience filled with dance, taiko and obi into luxurious interior is completely original, unplanned, struggling playwright J.M. Barrie drums, singing and more, is on for a items. Make the most of this rare unpredictable and guaranteed fun! as his life is changed by a chance limited time. opportunity to find a unique item Where: What the Dickens meeting. Where: Club Ex for your home. How much: ¥2,000 (incl. one drink) Where: Theatre Orb How much: ¥6,500-¥9,000 Where: 2F Shinjuku Takashimaya More info: piratesoftokyobay.com How much: ¥9,000-¥15,000 More info: mangekyo-tokyo.com How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com

5 SEP 1-10 6 SEP 18 7 SEP 15-30 8 SEP 16-18 AQUATIC YOKAI TUNNEL RAKUGO IN ENGLISH THE BEAUTY OF TAHITI FESTA A tunnel with nine kinds of ghost- Experience rakugo (Japanese AKARU SABI A celebration of Tahitian culture like jellyfish parading endlessly comedic storytelling) in English, Contemporary ceramic artist brings a slice of South Pacific inside a cold dark room is made courtesy of Shinoharu Tatekawa. Seimei Tsuji’s distinctive approach paradise to the city with stage even spookier with the addition of The performance will be followed and use of Shigaraki clay was so performances and traditional walls decorated with Edo period by an early dinner featuring a variety unique it was given its own name... foods. graphics, designed by Shigeru of Japanese seasonal delicacies. Where: MOMAT Crafts Gallery Where: Venus Fort Mizuki. Where: Park Hyatt Tokyo How much: ¥400-¥600 How much: Free Where: Sumida Aquarium How much: ¥7,500 More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com How much: ¥2,050 More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com

40 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER "Flower of water" Toso(type of wood composition), pastel H 62 × W 25 × D 28 cm, 2017

Mami Itagaki / Between Real and Unreal Saturday 2nd September - Sunday 24th September, 2017 Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 | Closed: Mondays and Tuesdays Opening Reception: Friday September 1st from 18:00 onwards

「Penguins」Acrylic on canvas 72.7×116.7 cm, 2017

Hikaru Myoen / Wet Penguin Saturday 30th Septemberž - Sunday 8th October, 2017 Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 Closed: Ÿe gallery will be open every day throughout the exhibition Opening Reception: Friday September 29th from 18:00 onwards ž Ÿe gallery will be open until 22:00 on September 30th (Saturday) for Roppongi Art Night

Aoyama Cemetary Nogisaka Station G aien G

The National aien East S W

est S Art Center, Tokyo t . Ho kk aien NANATASU National Graduate t

Institute for Policy Studies . To Shibuya Otora Gonpachi Roppongi Dori Roppongi Station GALLERY Nishi-Azabu Intersection 〒 106-0031 Tokyo, Minato-ku, Nishi-Azabu 2-12-4 Ogura building 3F Roppongi Hills Mori Art Museum Tel: 03-6419-7229 Hiroo Station Web: www.nanatasu.jp

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 41 Society TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIAL COLUMN WITH BILL HERSEY

udging by the heat in August and predictions from our business. I still work with Tsukasa Shiga on the annual F-1 parties friends in the weather business, much of September will and with visitors from Europe, Asia and the US for parties, but not all be hot and humid in Tokyo as well. I watched Al Gore’s that much. More on The New Lex and a rundown of all the new and documentary on CNN the other day – with all the climate hottest clubs later. change already happening, there are some drastic chang- Jes on the way for people and animals here on Mother Earth. Pulling out of the Paris climate accord was one of Trump’s early mistakes. I LOOKING BACK really wish he would have done some research on this or maybe just For the first 10 years of the Tokyo International Film Festival I had the have consulted a few experts on the subject such as Gore, or even privilege and fun of working with Bill Ireton’s mother, Kiko, and sis- Leonardo DiCaprio! Knock on wood – hopefully the autumn weath- ter, Asia, on publishing the Festival’s daily newspaper. Sadly we lost er patterns in Tokyo won’t change all that much. Autumn’s usually a Kiko, a smart, fun, and super chic friend, earlier this year. Her sister lovely season in Japan. Let’s hope it stays that way. Asia is still working in the film business as head of Tohokushinsha’s Speaking of History Channel in Tokyo and Los Angeles. My main work for the change, it’s some- paper was inter- times hard to viewing the actors, accept how fast actresses, and di- Tokyo is evolving. rectors who were So many of my the special guests old hangouts have here for the festi- been or are being val. These includ- torn down and ed Timothy Dalton, generally replaced for his James Bond by big new build- film, Chinese ac- ings. The designs tress Vivian Wu, and quality of actor John Love, much of the new Italian director architecture do Bernardo Berto- seem to be improv- lucci for The Last ing though. I tend Emperor, Charlie to move around in Sheen, his broth- Tokyo a lot and am er Emilio Estevez, always surprised Dolph Lundgren, when I drop by a Brenda Vacarro, shop or restaurant Yves Montand, I once liked, and and many more. the original busi- One interview that ness there is gone, really stands out in my mind was as if it never even The late great French femme fatale, Jeanne Moreau with Bill with the French existed. By the at the Tokyo International Film Festival, held in Kyoto, 1994 time the Olympics superstar Jeanne happen in 2020, Moreau, the much Tokyo may look like Blade Runner. beloved femme fatale of French New Wave films. Many years ago, I opened a boutique called Le Bazaar in an old I met this multitalented lady in Kyoto where many of the TIFF 2.5-story wooden building on Aoyama Dori. My business partners events were held in 1994. I’m happy to say that we really connected, were the very fashionable model Emile Yamano, who imports Ital- and in addition to my interview, I was able to have a sukiyaki din- ian fashion, and my brother Chris who modeled and did concerts all ner with her and take her shopping for souvenirs for her family and over Japan. I have lots of great memories every time I drive by the friends in France. I could go on and on about this exceptional woman: big Peacock Supermarket on Aoyama Dori, which is where the shop she had so many interesting stories to tell about her career, was well used to be. versed in just about everything, and was one of the most intelligent I don’t drink, and frankly don’t spend much time in Roppongi any people I’ve ever met. I was sad to read about her passing in July, at the more. But as many of you know, I ran a club there for 30 years and – age of 89. thanks to support from the film companies, fashion designers, talent agents and many of you – was able to make it one of Tokyo’s most fa- HAPPY BIRTHDAY STEVEN HAYNES! mous nightlife venues. It was a favorite of film celebs, top musicians, Did get back to one of Roppongi’s best clubs, Esprit, recently for the models, and even royalty just about every night. birthday party of a dear friend, the multitalented Steven Haynes. After many years of what seemed like an endless stretch of all- The glittering club was packed with at least 100 people, including night parties, I decided I’d had enough and more or less got out of that plenty of showbiz folks.

42 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER DEWI SUKARNO'S DINNER PARTY 1. Rana Ismayilzade 2. Jamila Bilal (Qatar), the multitalented Judy Ongg, Karina Seegers Sukarno, Kiran, Dewi 3. TV personality Ahn Mika 4. Azerbaijan Amb. Gursel Ismayilzade, Qatar Amb. Yousef Bilal, his wife Jamila, Dewi and Karina 5. Professional dancer, Rei Natsumi 6. Akira Nakahashi, Yuriko Higuchi 1 2

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10 12 STEVEN HAYNES' BIRTHDAY PARTY 7. Brazilian samba dancer Sandra 8. James Horie and Miss World Priyanka 9. Singer Gabriel, Paula, actor/model Hide, Keiki, Steven Haynes, Rie 10. Mayumi, Raymond, Nagomi 11. Pole dancing twins Chiharu and Chikada 12. Miss Supranational 2016 Risa Nagashima 13. Shunsuke, his daughter, 13 and a family friend

TOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDERWEEKENDER || SEPTEMBERSEPTEMEBR 2017 | 43 AMBASSADOR STARACE’S RECEPTION 1. Lilo Maruyama, Bill Hersey, Italian Amb. Giorgio Starace, Cantatore Domenico, Mary Aide, Helge Maruyama 2. Mary, Lilo, Israeli Amb. Ruth Kahanoff, and Mr Aide 3. Croatian Amb. Drazen Hrastic, Grand Master of the Crown Prince’s household and Mrs. Nobutake Odano 4. Fashion guru Emile Yamano, 1 2 Daichuji Temple Chief priest Koetsu Shimoyama, Nina Yamano, her mother Sharon 5. Ferrari executives: Max Musacci, Japan/Korea managing director Reno De Paoli, marketing director Donato Donatelli 6. Etro Japan/Asia Pacific’s Fabio Strada, Amadeus Pres. Prof. Midori Nishiura, Segafredo Pres. Brian Mori 7. Fabio Strada, Fiat’s Taziana Alamprese, Lilo, and Helge 8. Renowned caterer/restaurant owner Giorgio Matera and friends Ms. Omori and Ms. Hirakawa

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11 NORMAN TOLMAN CELEBRATES 9. Norman Tolman with seven of the 48 artists of The Tolman Collection: Okada Marie, Goto Hideki, Saito Noriko, Norman, Gojo Miki, Nakazawa Shin’ichi, Takahashi Hiromitsu, Imamura Yoshio 10. Kiyo Fukuda (Tolman Collection photographer), Norman, Allison Tolman, Shin Mochizuki (Tolman Collection International Project Manager) 11. Bill Swinton, Norman, Stephen Bloom, CEO of Portland Japanese Garden

44 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER 44 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER The DJ, the food and the ambiance were primo and the three-hour STARACES’ GLITTERING ITALIAN NATIONAL DAY event featured twin sister pole dancers, a gorgeous Brazilian samba Our new Italian Ambassador Giorgio Starace had only been here a dancer, and several singers. It was a wild night that brought back short time before he had to host Italy’s national day party. This is great memories of the Lexington Queen in its heyday. The fashion, the always one of the biggest diplomatic events of the year, and he, with lighting, the models, and Steve’s super personality all ended up mak- the help of his staff, his catering service (Giorgio Matera), and many ing it the excellent celebration it was. Congratulations Steve – you’re top Italian businessmen, made it all very special. The Italian embassy the best. with its legendary garden (which is associated with the story of the 47 ronin) is not the biggest, but it’s certainly one of the most beautiful DEWI’S DINNER FOR HER DAUGHTER AND FAMILY and is big enough to hold the 1,300 guests that came that evening and still not be too crowded. Dewi Sukarno no sooner got back from one of her many trips (this The glitz and glamour of the evening started at the main entrance time Indonesia – and at the time of writing, she had just returned to the residence, where there was a display of Italian cars that includ- from 10 days in South Africa!) than she planned and hosted a dinner ed a Ferrari, a Lamborghini, a Fiat and a Vespa, which were taste- for her daughter Karina, her son-in-law Fritz Seegers, and her grand- fully displayed and beautifully illuminated. The opening ceremony son Karin. Her daughter lives in London, and she and her family were featured a welcome speech by the ambassador and congratulations only here for a few days, so the party ended up being on the same by several Japanese government officials. These could be seen on a night as the big and very crowded Japan-Arab Day annual reception big monitor in the garden. at the Imperial. The buffet started out with a long table of wonderful Italian ap- I was lucky as my good friends the Azerbaijani Ambassador Gur- petizers in the main dining area. Believe me, they all tasted as good sel, his wife Rana, and their son Nursel were also invited to both as they looked. White tents were scattered around the garden where events. As always, they kindly gave me a ride from the Imperial to Tokyo’s top Italian chefs served a colorful and tasteful variety of piz- Dewi’s event at the world-renowned Tokyo Shiba Tofuya Ukai restau- za, pasta, and many other Italian specialties. The hosting couple also rant behind Tokyo Tower, a restaurant with exceptional tofu cuisine, provided tables and comfortable chairs where guests could relax and gardens, lanterns, bridges, and remarkable Japanese ambiance. It re- chat while enjoying the marvelous food. For dessert there was a big ally is legendary. selection of Italian gelatos and Segafredo Zanetti’s man-in-Japan Bri- The guests there that evening were an interesting mix of business an Mori and his staff served their world famous espresso in the main tycoons, bankers, showbiz celebrities – notably the TV actress Ahn reception room. Mika and dancer Rei Natsumi – and Dewi and Karina’s families. I have Our congratulations to Ambassador and Signora Starace, as well known Karina for many years, and was happy to see her so content as the many others who helped them make it a truly special cele- with her husband and son. The dinner was excellent and featured bration. The new ambassador is really cool – he reminds me of my course after course of mostly tofu dishes. You should have at least one Italian godfather, the late great fashion designer Brioni. meal there while you’re in Japan. I got a pleasant surprise when I ran into long-time friend, the multi- talented Judy Ongg, who was at another party at the same venue. I "GERMAN REQUIEM" PERFORMANCE NEXT MONTH held a lot of events for Judy when the Lexington was still the place Robert Ryker, music director of the popular Tokyo Sinfonia, has a to go. new project in the works. On October 31, he will conduct a chorus, orchestra and soloists – more than 250 artists – in a performance of NORMAN TOLMAN CELEBRATES Johannes Brahms's German Requiem. It is the composer’s most mas- sive work, but because it requires so much talent and preparation, it Since Norman Tolman and his entourage have been doing a lot of is seldom performed in Japan. traveling, I have sort of lost track of him and his creative endeavors. A group of business people and religious leaders have joined He recently took a round-the-world trip, arranging exhibits for Toko Shinoda in Amsterdam, Almaty, Shanghai, and Shenzhen. If you think Maestro Ryker in organizing the event to be held at the Tokyo Met- Toko is the only artist The Tolman Collection handles you’d be wrong! ropolitan Theater in Ikebukuro to mark the 500th anniversary of the The printmaker Wako Shuji has been their exclusive artist since 1984. Reformation that sparked a political, intellectual, religious and cul- On September 23 they will release a book about him (when does Nor- tural revolution that continues today. man find time to write?). Things Are Seldom What They Seem is about This performance will be one of many events around the world lithographs that Wako has made for The Tolman Collection, which are to commemorate the date. Following the performance, there will be not available anywhere else. a cultural reception to celebrate how music brings together people Unfortunately, I missed good friend Norman’s 81st birthday party, from around the world. I expect to be there, ears and heart open, and which he hosted at his apartment. Really sorry about that, as I heard camera in hand. he had some 70 guests so I’m sure it was great fun. For information and tickets, go to www.r500.co

Hideki and Linda Yamada Nishantha and Tomoko Perera with their son Taj at Chicken Man restaurant owner, Dike Echee, Tunade at Hiroo Segafredo the Sri Lankan Festival, Yoyogi Park Latin music agency’s Dabid Garcia

TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 45

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