SEPTEMBER 2017 Japan’s number one English language magazine AUTUMN EYES HARAJUKU LASHES AND MORE TIPS FROM A/W17 GACKT "THERE'S AN EMPTINESS IN PEOPLE'S HEARTS" WHAT MAKES YOU GET UP IN THE MORNING? PLUS: "Life in Transit" Photo Story, Osaka on Two Wheels, the Tokyo Café Serving Prophecies, and UFC's Big Comeback Join the Conversation, Join the Club JOIN TOKYO WEEKENDER’S INSIDERS CLUB TO FIND OUT ABOUT LIMITED OFFERS THROUGHOUT TOKYO, ATTEND EXCLUSIVE EVENTS, GET THE LATEST INFORMATION ABOUT PRODUCTS BEFORE THEY LAUNCH, AND LET YOUR VOICE BE HEARD. CHECK OUT WWW.TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM/WEEKENDERINSIDERS FOR MORE DETAILS 22 30 32 34 SEPTEMBER 2017 radar in-depth 32 GACKT THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS COFFEE-BREAK READS The musician and actor on his new film, and why people are so disconnected. 8 AREA GUIDE: BANCHO 22 THE FIGHTERS An area few seem to know about may hold As UFC Fight Night approaches later this 34 LIFE IN TRANSIT the key to the ultimate lifestyle in Tokyo. month, we look at the sport's global rise Photographer Charles Levi focuses his lens and newest Japanese star. on the subtle moments on Tokyo's trains. 10 STYLE: HAPPY MEDIUM Breeze through autumn with transitional 26 COFFEE AND PROPHECY pieces to take you from summer to winter. The curious case of a Tokyo café serving cappuccinos along with inspirational guide 12 BEAUTY: AUTUMN EYES messages from God. CULTURE ROUNDUP The Fall/Winter 2017 catwalks provide plenty 38 ART of inspiration for creative makeup looks. 28 IS "IKIGAI" THE SECRET TO Otherwordly images Belgium, the golden age HAPPINESS? of flowers, and traditionalnihonga works. 14 TRENDS: ICE CREAM CRAWL Possibly the next buzzword to come out Some of our favorite ice cream, gelato and of Japan, ikigai refers to one's reason for 40 AGENDA shaved ice shops in the city. being – but can it help change your life? Rakugo in English, a percussion performance, and a jellyfish tunnel. 18 THE CONCIERGE 30 OSAKA ON TWO WHEELS Editor's picks from our roundup of top spots Cycling just might be the best way to 42 SOCIETY and services in the city. explore Japan's third largest city. Tokyo's longest-running social column. SEPTEMBER 2017 Publisher ENGAWA Co., Ltd. President Takanobu Ushiyama Executive Producer Naoya Takahashi Editor in Chief Annemarie Luck Senior Editors Alec Jordan Lisa Wallin Creative Director Liam Ramshaw Features Writer Matthew Hernon Contributors Vivian Morelli Bill Hersey Bunny Bissoux Sales Director Takaaki Murai Sales Executives Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Ayane Sugawara Azusa Yoshida Marketing Director Jessica Yumi Idomoto Media Consultant Mary Rudow Media Producers Claudia Sun Yuda Chou EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku Tokyo, Japan 151-0051 (03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax) [email protected] To subscribe to Tokyo Weekender, please visit www.tokyoweekender.com/subscribe For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6432-9948 or email: [email protected] 広告に関するお問い合わせ先 電話：(03) 6432-9948 メール：[email protected] Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 4 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER @bapawn: Despite the picture perfect image we’ve got @bapawn: That’s be my daughter, I think. She gets up on the cover, there’s plenty of deep thinking going on early But what I do like in respect to the concept of in this issue’s pages. To start with, do you believe in ikigai is the idea of finding small joys throughout the fortune tellers? day. It’s something my wife always talks about, and I was happy to see the idea pop up again in that article. @mizrama: Interesting question! I actually used to have my own set of tarot cards, and there was part of me that @mizrama: Yes, me too. I guess it’s similar to concepts wanted to believe. These days I’m more of a cynic. What like mindfulness or even that little guide called The about you – would you ever visit Yogen Café in Shinjuku Secret that became popular a few years back. It’s always [page 26] to receive one of their prophecies? interesting to realize that different cultures all over the world suffer the same kind of existential angst. @bapawn: After reading the article, I’d be tempted to go when I was in need of a pick me up. Their prophecies @bapawn: Yes, I was surprised to read that even a seem to be on the positive side, overall. But I probably character like Gackt [page 32] is in touch with that sense fall into that category of Westerner who has sought for of disconnection. meaning outside of their own culture, so I might be trying to seek enlightenment at a Zen temple or some @mizrama: He seems to get the balance right – being place like that. aware of the “emptiness in people’s hearts,” as he puts it, while being able to find his own sense of inner peace. @mizrama: How about using the Japanese concept of ikigai then [page 28]? Finding your reason for being – or @bapawn: Who knows … maybe Gackt will be the next at least, the thing that gets you up in the morning? person to bring out a self-help book. VISIT OUR WEBSITE JOIN US ON FACEBOOK FOLLOW US ON TWITTER FIND US ON INSTAGRAM WWW.TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM FACEBOOK.COM/TOKYO.WEEKENDER @TOKYO_WEEKENDER TOKYOWEEKENDER TOKYO WEEKENDER | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 5 Door to Door Pickup Service 24 Hour Staff Supervision One daycare visit available Open 365 Days No Cages Athletic Dog Club co., Ltd. 1F 1-8-18 Akatsutsumi, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 156-0044 !"#$%&'('')*(+&&'%%%%[email protected] Tel: 03-3327-1003 I Fax: 03-3327-7407 | E: [email protected] ,-.$%&'('))*(*/&* www4.ocn.ne.jp/~adc www.pethoteltokyo.com (Japanese) | http://adc.pipi.cc (English) PLAY STRONG! ¥10,000 OFF Strong, healthy bodies Membership Fee, grow strong healthy minds. No Annual Fee ENROLL TODAY! Classes that give kids the best start. Ages newborn to 5 years. PLAY & LEARN MUSIC ART SCHOOL SKILLS PRE-SCHOOL STEPS www.gymboree.jp/en 6 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... Autumn style and beauty inspiration, the most Instagrammable ice creams in Tokyo, and a neighborhood that could just be the city's best kept secret. TOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDERWEEKENDER || SEPTEMBERSEPTEMBER 2017 | 7 AREA GUIDE BANCHO: TOKYO’S BEST KEPT SECRET? Words by Lisa Wallin An area few seem to know about may hold the key to the ultimate lifestyle experience in the Big Mikan ancho, a prestigious residential area in the center of Tokyo, offers an unexpected respite from the hustle and bustle of the urban me- Btropolis. Trees line the streets in this urban oasis that is just a stone’s throw away from the Imperial Palace, and is home to a colorful history and a long lineage of cultural greats. CITY OF SAMURAI During the Edo period, Bancho was home to samurai vassals and the Tokugawa clan’s bodyguards. Located strategically on the west bank of the Edo Castle (now Imperial Palace) moat, soldiers were always nearby and on call in the event of an attack. The area was comprised of hundreds of samurai residences and training schools, with the district split up into six sections numbered from one to six, according to their according squadrons. Bancho was originally named for the guard houses that samurai vassals lived in, called daibansho. CENTER OF CULTURE With the Meiji period came a thirst for knowledge and culture, and this time Bancho acted as a nerve center for many intellectuals thanks to its central location. Novelists, composers, politicians, artists and kabuki actors gathered and exchanged ideas here. One such individual, Takeo Arishima, was a novelist famed for his depiction of the societal changes women faced in the early 20th century. Bancho remains a cultural hub today and famous institutes such as the National Museum of Modern Art, Kioi Hall, Sophia University, and the National Theatre of Japan are just a few of the highly regarded cultural institutions within walking distance. LIFESTYLE OF LEISURE Being a primarily residential area, Bancho is a quiet, comfortable neighbor- hood with tree-lined avenues and picture perfect cafés tucked away behind lush greenery. Biancane, an authentic Tuscan restaurant, has had its home here since 2008, offering mouthwatering Italian full-course dinners and lunches in a traditional setting. Exclusive Murakami Kaishindo is an invite- 8 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER only restaurant and confectionery shop where first-time diners and sweet shoppers can only enter with an introduction from an existing client (barring lunchtime). Locals living in the area are more likely to meet the right people to get them an “in” for this swank store. For the health-conscious, an athletic park, a tennis center, several parks and the 5km Imperial Palace Loop couldn’t be closer. For those who prioritize their health and well-being, this district makes it easy to fulfill those goals. KING OF CONVENIENCE Bancho’s central location means that everything a resident could ever need or want is easily obtainable within a one kilometer radius. The area offers easy access to several major train stations, as well as sightseeing spots like the Imperial Palace and Sotobori Park, known for its cherry blossoms in spring. It’s also home to some of the nation’s top-rated schools, legal firms, and clinics. Several embassies are located nearby, including the British and Belgian embassies, and for those entertain- ing guests, the upscale Hotel New Otani alone has 38 dining options, a spa and a beautiful Japanese-style garden to enjoy.