JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

ATHENS, GREECE MARCH 2006

CONFERENCE AT THE FACULTY OF ARCHITECTURE NATIONAL TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY OF ATHENS

GLOBALISATION AND EMPIRES: SHARED ARCHITECTURES FROM PORTUGUESE ORIGIN

52 - GERAL 1 - SITUATION AND HISTORICAL DIMENSION When we speak about the colonial heritage of Portuguese origin we wonder about the number of the specimens, geographically referred. The answer is not easy, because the knowledge of this universe is still very indefinite. Also, after the perception of the grandness of the number, we note the extraordinary movement in which Portugal knew how to be the protagonist, in the beginning of the Modern Times. This fact brings to reality a lot of investigations to make, with very diversified methodological approaches: which are the sites, with its geographical and chronological identification; which are the correlations with the geopolitics of that time; which kind of economic and social evolution occurred in each civilization connected after the Portuguese arrival; what kind of morphology was privileged with the establishment of new urban organizations, the type of management of the territory, the regional role that the Portuguese presence granted in technical, cultural and in general effects; what were the role and the significance of the interaction of the colonial enterprise of Portugal? The greatest astonishment is to say that (at the beginning and during the golden JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

time of its colonial adventure) Portugal had no more inhabitants than one million and a quarter, the majority being peasants of the interior of the country. But the Portuguese succeeded, since the middle of the 15th century, in an intensive activity on maritime trade, supporting a rosary of African cities and islands of the Atlantic Ocean and, immediately after, continuing by the Indian Ocean to the Far East. Since the second conquest of an African city (Ksar-el-Segèr, in 1458), until the first establishment in India (Kochi, 1503) and with the conquest of Malacca, in 1511, that is, in the time of two generations, Portugal was in action in extra- European spaces of three continents: in America with , in the whole littoral of the coasts of Africa and Asia, while continuing through the archipelagos of the Pacific to Japan in direction of Australia, where (it appears to be certain) it was Portuguese the first European who touched the last inhabited continent.

2 –QUANTITATIVE AND QUALITATIVE PERCEPTION OF A PHENOMENON At the end of the third quarter of the 16th century the Oceans were ornamented with tens of cities, warehouses and fortresses built and managed by Portugal. For this conference concerning the Portuguese colonial empire I became aware of a very vast urban production, being sufficient to say that, during the time between the conquest of Septa, in 1415, and the creation of Dili, in East Timor, in 1769, we can note a colonial urban production of approximately three hundred nucleus of different settlements, some of them very wide. It is curious to see that the date of the foundation of Dili is the same as the one of the massive transfer of the population of Mazagan (city started in 1509 and the last one being abandoned in Morocco), in direction at a new place in the opposite part of the Atlantic, while contributing for the spectacular effort of the urbanisation of Brazil. The experiment of the creation of Madeira and (and that it is a fact, in my opinion, with repercussions still badly studied), as well as the design of the Maritime Empire of the East (practised in a visionary way by Afonso de Albuquerque), or the geographical domination of Amazonia (among tens of facts, cities like Macapá, Manaus, Príncipe da Beira, Belém do Pará, or São Luís do JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

Maranhão) and also, still in the American continent, the idea of the “Island Brazil" with the saga of the "Question of the Limits", from São Luís to Colónia do Sacramento (in Uruguay), all are extraordinary examples that make the integration of the built inheritance, with repercussions of the highest scope. Those facts form really part of the conformation of a new phenomenon, which introduced the newest perception of the real dimension of humanity – what, I think, granted a kind of national mission that, in a wide evaluation, still fulfills its role in the identification of the Portuguese themselves. The projection of acting collective memories, in general embodied by the built heritage (and especially in situations that constitute itself shared architectures), it is the essential basis for the balance and the cultural progress of the values of each community and of the very whole Civilization, by giving us the synthesis of the vectors which justify the course of Humanity.

3 – WORKING FOR THE SAFEGUARD OF AN UNIVERSAL INHERITANCE In the disturbed times of the contemporary globalisation that we are living, the comprehension of Portugal goes back six hundred years ago, when a new era was open with the Expansion and the whole appearance of a great geography, in all its embraces and derivations. Like a national raison d'être, the Portuguese historical identification passes by an effort that consider the valorisation of shared inheritances, while betting inevitably on the development of intercultural bonds with the places of the Diaspora, and by privileging the people that are the holders of those legacies of Portuguese origin. From my experience as a Consultant and Architect of the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, I will show some cases that can perhaps introduce to you a vision of a very demanding work of international co-operation, by considering the safeguard of a common patrimony of the cultural History of various countries in the world. It is curious to verify that the first intervention of the Foundation in these matters is practically contemporary to its constitution: in 1958/60, at the time of the transition of Kenya to independence, the restoration of the fortress of Mombassa JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

was supported. The persistence in this line of work has its current expression with the processes in progress in Iran, in Morocco and in Senegal and also, if the preliminary discussions are successful, in Sri Lanka and in Ethiopia. A program like this is widened each time in such a diversified geography, already taking into account interventions in Latin America (Brazil and Uruguay), in Africa (Morocco, Benin, Mozambique, Tanzania, and Kenya), in Asia (India, Thailand, Malaysia, Bangladesh and Iran), and in Europe (Netherlands and Malta). The cases I bring illustrate very well what I have just said and I will show you some pictures. As a kind of epilogue, and talking again about the question of the dissemination of urban and architectural productions (and consequent realization of an inheritance to be divided with the world, that is to say, with the Empire), I want to introduce you to new problems. In truth, because and due to an open relation with the Portuguese Empire, it was created a new architecture in the insular Portugal (those of the "Empires" of the Holy Spirit of Azores). The same can be said about what happened with the turned-over blacks and half-breeds of Benin, in Ouidah or Porto Novo (note that this name still belongs to the ), when they made, one hundred years ago, new buildings for their African mosques, directly starting from the colonial models of the large Portuguese churches of Brazil, which were built by slaves and half- breeds coming before from the Gulf of Guinea.

53 - QUÍLOA 4 - THE FIRST EUROPEAN CONSTRUCTION IN THE EAST In his voyage to India, during which Brazil was officially found, Pedro Álvares Cabral touched Quíloa, in July 26th of 1500. In 1502, in the return voyage of its second stay in the East, Vasco da Gama collected the first gold tribute of the local Lord for King Manuel: it was this gold that was used to make the monstrance of Belém, the masterpiece of the European goldsmithery of the time. JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

54 – FRENTE DO FORTE The small fort was built in August of 1505, during the voyage of the first Viceroy of India, D. Francisco de Almeida, executing the royal regiment for the creation of a logistic network for the Empire of the East, inaugurated seven years before by Vasco da Gama. The occupation of the fort remained only for seven years, up to 1512. What one finds today are the remains of a fort integrated in a vast archaeological site of the Swahili civilization, declared World Heritage by UNESCO (Kilwa Kisiwani and Songo Mnara). 55 – RUÍNAS, FOTO AÉREA The exceptional importance of the remains of the Portuguese fort comes from the fact that this construction constitutes the first building in stone and lime that was made by the Europeans in the Eastern and unknown part of the world. In truth, Kochi was already made up as an operative base in India, a place quite simply protected (but not fortified) during the first period, which was yielded by the sultan to the Portuguese. 56 – DESENHOS ARCHITECTURAL SURVEY The second reason by which the Portuguese Fort of Quíloa is a notable building, it is that it succeeded, evolving with some typically Swahili parts added to its trace, but without withdrawing the original characteristics. The last works of maintenance were completed at the beginning of the 19th century by the Omanites, and the installations sheltered a small garrison up to 1843, when the sultanate of Zanzibar and Pemba was finished. At the 20th century, the German initially, and the English in the decade of the 30’s did various works of archaeological recognition. 57, 58 - MODEL A project awaits its opportunity to be carried out, to ensure the maintenance of this mark of the History of Humanity: we are speaking about the most ancient Western construction in the East, inaugurating the globalisation in the beginning of Modernity, with the new phenomena of international trade, the movement of JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

the labour force of the slaves, the religious proselytism and the construction and interaction of a system of empires, locals and colonials, which formed the World throughout the centuries, until a few tens of years ago. 59 – PORTA SWAHILI 60 – 2 ASPECTOS PAREDES RUÍNAS In the framing of the Fort site, it is a presence of large impact, historical and aesthetic, by sharing its singularity, encrusted in an Arab-African environment. 61 – FACHADA OESTE The proposal for the intervention includes the conservation of the existing structures, the rebuilding of the door in the original manner, as well as the creation of conditions of reception of the visitors. 62 – AO LONGE We hope that the stagnation and negligence that committed this heritage can disappear, and thus leading to a more widened comprehension of an inheritance that is symbolically unique.

63 - ORMUZ 5 - THE FORTRESS OF THE GREAT ALBUQUERQUE IN IRAN 64 – APROXIMAÇÃO POR MAR The common Portuguese-Persian heritage is substantively recognized in terms of military architecture of the strategic system of the entry of the Gulf, as are the cases of the fortresses of Keshm, Larak and, specially, the one of Hormuz. 65 – VISTA PRÓXIMA, DO MAR 66 - BRÁUNIO The Ormuz of the Portuguese Chronicles of the 16th century constituted (in the full geographical context that also took into account Goa and Malacca) the key of the Maritime Empire conceived by Afonso de Albuquerque in the Indian Ocean. 67 – MANUEL GODINHO DE HERÉDIA At the moment of his first passage towards India he was already occupied with the construction of a fortification in Socotorá (at the entrance of the Red Sea), while failing the conquest of the town of Adém, but taking control of Caliate, JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

Curiate, Muscat, Soar and Orçafão (at the maritime front of Oman). Afterwards, when achieving the submission of Ormuz, he started to build the Portuguese fortress in October of 1507. 68 – GASPAR CORREIA Works stopped the following January, and only in 1515, after the saga of Goa and Malacca, Albuquerque returned to finalize the works, to which he dedicated the remainder of its days, until his death in December of that year. The present state of ruin of this inheritance does not withdraw any of its higher importance. Representing the state of the art of the evolution of Portuguese military construction during the first half-century of the presence in the East, to understand the importance of the Ormuz’ fortress it will be enough to say that the Portuguese forts of Keshm and Larak (built in other islands near Hormuz) occupy a surface of around 1500 square meters, against the 20 000 sqm of the larger fortress. 69 - MODEL The main components of the original defence system show us the complex of the entry, the bastion of the sea (which was attached to it), and another bulwark, round, at the opposite point, and the wall on the side ground between them, with a semicircular tower in the middle, and a polygonal bastion of great dimensions (in articulation with the house of the governor). The significance of the held of this opulent city, siding with its strategic importance, is summarized in the metaphor of João de Barros: "the world is a ring and Ormuz it is the precious stone enchased in it". It is not to admire that, because of that, an extraordinary reform underwent about fifty years after its initial construction. 70 - DETALHE At that time the internal dimensions reached a free surface of approximately one hectare, being 265 meters long the major diagonal of the quadrilateral. 71 - DETALHE Today one can still admire on the spot the conceptual degree and the technical JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

achievement of the construction, as one of the most important examples of the Portuguese military architecture of transition. Such observation is underlined not only by the bastions that remain, but also by the great cistern (practically still intact) and in the whole ensemble of the huge amplification of the fortifications. 72 – PLANTA GERAL Except the additions dating after the Portuguese occupation (after 1622), what impresses is the discovery of the older components, which were protected as a capsule by the imposing reforms of 1558/60. In a lot of cases we can observe conservation conditions better than the others dating of more recent phases and enabling us to contact with the structures of the fortification of Albuquerque. 73 – VISTA GERAL DESDE A TORRE DO CAPITÃO PARA O INTERIOR The most imposing parts are the two bastions turned to the West with a great formal integrity, and the wall in articulation with the two doors of the fortress. Other reasons of great interest are the cistern and the Manuelin church, in relation to which some doubts remain, concerning the interpretation of the chronology, function and its drawing. 74, 75 – VISTAS INTERIORES 76, 77 – IGREJA MANUELINA 78, 79, 80 – GRANDE CISTERNA 81 – PILARES E NERVURAS DAS ABÓBADAS / IGREJA E CISTERNA 82 – VISTA INTERIOR

6 - A JEWEL OF MANUELIN ARCHITECTURE IN MOROCCO 83 - With King Manuel, at the dawn of the 16th century, Safi acquired significance as the capital city of the Portuguese presence in the Maghreb, dealing with Marrakech, the head of the Almoravide kingdom, precisely served by that important seaport that the Portuguese took for their convenience. 84 – CIVITATES ORBIS TERRARUM The program of the constructions supported by the royal house in Safi, turning the Portuguese interests towards the open ocean (and thus putting definitively the Mediterranean Sea in a second place), appears as a factor of first dimension JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

within the urban panorama of those times. In parallel with the notable fortification works, the cathedral was completed in the decade of 1520. The remains that are seen today are the main chapel with its almost intact Manuelin vault and one of the side chapels, already without covering. 85 – KASHBA, VISTO DO ALTO DO MINARETE 86 - APROXIMAÇÃO Surrounding this core, into the heart of the medina, unhealthy slums and public latrines (on the place where there used to be the gate of the old temple) form a formidable density of degraded constructions. 87 – COMEÇO DA PETITE RUE 88 – PETITE RUE, FACHADA LATERAL Beyond the parallelism between the case of Safi and those of the cathedrals of (Azores) and especially of , in Madeira, I had the occasion to discover similarities of drawing of the gates that remain of the initial period of the church of Saint Francis, in Goa. This singularity is so significant that it raises the question of the existence of a centralized idea for the export of an architectural style, intended for an overseas program, showing characteristics that imply new methodologies adapted to a typology – a new style which highlights the creation of a representation of the Modern Times. 89 – ENTRADA ACTUAL, VISTA INTERIOR João Luís, the Master-builder of the Safi Cathedral, came from Coimbra and surely followed a drawing from a producing centre for the global image of the geopolitical situation of Portugal, which was equipped with a level of originality and complexity, associated to a capacity of execution, which was reached never again. 90 – ARCO DA NAVE LATERAL E CONSOLA COM NERVURAS The description made in 1929 by Pierre Cenival, of the Direction of the Fine Arts and Historic Buildings of Morocco, on French Protectorate, constitutes the more prestigious source to locate the condition of the monument ("La Cathédral Portugaise de Safi", Héspèris, IX). 91 – CAPELA MOR, NA DIRECÇÃO DA NAVE CENTRAL JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

At that time it was installed there the hammam of the women: it was made a chaotic adaptation of the space below the vault of the main altar, with a main chimney crossing the ceiling, causing the loss of a stone-key. Cenival wrote: "Nothing evoked less the Turkish bath of Ingres (...) but above this heteroclite unit and this naive poverty, in an half light, a network of veins radiated around a central key, a rich decoration of florets". 92 – A ABÓBADA All the historians of art agree with the attribution of a superlative category to the vault of Safi. I am convinced that the considerable parts which remain of the cathedral of Safi constitute, except for the military field, a masterpiece of Manuelin architecture subsisting outside of Portugal. 93 – PROPOSTA DE INTERVENÇÃO 94, 95, 96 – DESENHOS DO PROJECTO, COM PEDRA DE FECHO CENTRAL Today, the place of the remains of the cathedral, in the middle of the old city, will be, perhaps, a very important issue from the point of view of urban planning, constituting the rehabilitation of this heritage the opportunity to make improvements on the quality of life of the people living there. 97 – FOTO GERAL DA ABÓBADA The aggregation of very strong reasons of interest from the historical, monumental and tourist point of view will contribute for the decision of rehabilitation of the public space, 98 – RUA COM MINARETE enhancing the remarkable minaret of the 13th century (a superb specimen of the Almohade art within an Almoravide framework, and the only one in Morocco that is not physically related to the mosque).

99 - TESGÃO 7 - A CHURCH RENEWED IN THE CENTER OF DHAKA The date of the current complex of the Holy Rosary Church, in the district of JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

Tesgaon of the capital of Bangladesh, relies from 1677, in spite of the constructive adaptations that the English made, including the substitution of the roofs by concrete slabs. 100 – MAPA, JOÃO BAPTISTA LAVANHA Anyway, the references of the presence of the missionaries, the mention of a construction originating the parish, and also the constructive characteristics of the main chapel (verified during the works of restoration), authorize us to move back practically a century the dating of this surviving part of this heritage. 101 - PLANTA Thus, the rectangle in the head of the church (today the main altar) will be what remains of the first temple of the Portuguese factory, established on the spot by 1580, lasting yet the traces of the urban screen (including the hospice, the schools and the parochial complex). 102 - MODEL The Holy Rosary Church makes ostentation of a strange baroque, offering an architectonic theory of great heterodoxy, not only by its exoticism, but especially by the purified direction of an erudite drawing. 103 - ALÇADO The visible results of the cultural relations that occurred in the Gulf of Bengal, during the golden time of the Mogol Empire, show the favourable factors of the user-friendliness of the religions (Buddhism, Islamism, Christian). 104 – VISTA GERAL APÓS TRABALHOS 105 – ANTES E DEPOIS 106 – INTERIOR ANTES The existence of an ethnological, religious, linguistic and artistic fabric like the one of Tesgaon, in the middle of Dhaka, particularly explains the interacting possibilities of the maintenance of autonomous reasons that the community adopted to perpetuate an old condition, particularly in a situation of separation of the influences that Geography and History imposed. 107 – MODEL, INTERIOR EM DIRECÇÃO AO ALTAR JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

108 – DESENHO RESTAURO The Heritage never admits simplistic explanations. The Portuguese origins that we can confer to the Holy Rosary Church were evolved and transmuted into other reasons and knowledge, which one identifies as acquisitions that also form the identity course of Portuguese. 109 – INTERIOR DA NAVE CENTRAL, ALTAR 110 – DETALHES, INTERIOR The originality of some architectural features, such as the church of Dhaka, by its complex condition can not be summarized by some easy space-time process of the History: They are new identities. 111 – DETALHES, COMPOSIÇÃO DO PORTAL The Holy Rosary Church, hybrid product of miscegenation, became an authentic assertion of an independent reality, a new heart of another identity where, at the end, Portuguese are re-visited in a new and strange way. 112 – AO FUNDO, COM CEMITÉRIO

113 - YOGYAKARTA 8 – THE SWIMMING POOLS OF THE "TAMANSARI" IN YOGYAKARTA In Yogyakarta, in the middle of the island of Java, close to Borobodur, the archaeological complex of Tamansari 114 – PLANTA GERAL (the city-palace of the 18th century, built by the first sultan of the dynasty still reigning) persists and incorporates the town centre, representing a historical example of multiculturalism. As in Bangladesh, in Indonesia Portugal did not have fortresses to guarantee the sovereignty on the territory and the people. But the influences of the intercultural changes are still alive, confirming some contributions of the highest importance for the life of people, at the point that it keeps the legend of the design of the architecture of Tamansari. According to the popular explanation, the conception of the city-palace was due JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

to a Portuguese architect, probably coming from Goa. Although no one knows his name, people refer to him as the Demang Tegis – meaning "Lord (por)Tuguese". 115, 116 – DESENHOS PROJECTO From that urban and architectonic complex, made 250 years ago (and lost at the time of the eruption of the Merapi volcano, in 1867), remain today some archaeological components that belonged to a vast ensemble occupying 12,6 walled hectares. 117 – PORTAIS COM PISCINAS, INTERIOR In its exquisite exoticism, were built formidable lakes and channels, with underwater streets and palaces, and a singular mosque in the middle of water, splendid gardens and swimming pools for the pleasure of the sultan and his harem. 118 – REABILITAÇÃO, DETALHE What justified the project of rehabilitation of the swimming pools was the acquired importance of such a weak link for the cultural and symbolic memory recognized by the locals to the author of the site in ruins, with which the city is identified. 119 - IDEM For the recognizable lines of a theory of architecture, establishing possible connections with Portuguese and European origins, it is necessary to underline, according to all great civilizations, the strong density of the cultural marks of Buddhism, of Hinduism and Islamism. 120, 121 – TORRE DO SULTÃO, 2 FACES The design of the mosque, within an artificial lake, shows a round building of two floors built with circular round vaults, and without the characteristic cupola of the sacred typology, and by adopting a central void space - a round patio - where a staircase with five arms shelters the water for the ablutions. All that, by itself even, could be because somebody made it understandable, developing a process of conciliation of various visions, at the same time letting the idiosyncrasy and the cosmopolitanism of the Author sink in, serving such JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

freedom. 122, 123, 124, 125 – DESENHOS, ESTUDOS E REALIZAÇÃO In truth, I think that the attitude of Portuguese, during the cultural adventure of the Empire, had much of this major vision of respect of the grandness of others, at the same time not rejecting a certain will to belong to the other. 126 – VISTA INTERNA DE PORTA DE ACESSO In this balance of protagonist and humility, Portuguese sometimes produced a type of colonialism with inheritances that are simultaneously the proposal and the result of sharing experiments.

127 - ………………………………………………………………………………… 9 - SHARED MIXED AND TURN-VOYAGE ARCHITECTURES The new times after the end of the Middle Ages contains a direction of renovation, and all the great achievements that inaugurates the Modern Age of the Western Civilization (from the Portuguese maritime Discoveries, until the monuments of literature, such as the Divine Comedy), underline the urgency of an eschatological purification. Dante Alighieri made its work the receptacle of the reformist ideas of Joachim de Fiore, and when Thomas Morus published his Utopia, in 1516, the experiment of this "optimo reipublicae statu deque nova insula", was already tested in the new islands of Europe, in the middle of the Atlantic, in the archipelago of Azores - and for that, one is not astonished to see that the protagonist of the book is Portuguese, it was Rafael Hitloideu that journeyed with the author to make him "the revelation of this new world to the old one". In another way, and because built heritage is being discussed here, we can say that all the theoretical affairs of the Renaissance for the publication of the treaties of architecture (as, for example, Campanella with his "City of the Sun"), are another contribution for a synthesis of sciences and knowledge, promoting a new order and the philosophical renovation of Christendom. By the comprehension of the present with the past, the great Portuguese JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

thinkers, from Luís de Camoens to António Vieira and his "History of the Future", until, more recently, Fernando Pessoa and Agostinho da Silva, all of them defined the mission of Portugal as the nation able to create a futuristic Empire, which would be based in the apocalyptic prophecies of the Holy Spirit – the Spirituals, following the heresy of avant-garde of monk Joachim, from Calabria (1131 - 1202). 128 - PANJORA It was in 1977, when arriving at Panjora (a small village, 50 km off the capital of Bangladesh), and seeing the little Saint Anthony Church "of the Portuguese Mission of Bengala" (it is what is written on the inscription in the pediment), that I had an intuition for the explanation of a typically Portuguese architectural phenomenon. Suddenly, I found the resonances that precisely represent the experiment of an aesthetics acquired by mixtures and processes of sharing and training in a typical imperial context. 129 – DETALHES DA FACHADA The architectonic innovation contained something which seemed me to be unreal, timeless, absolute. And I quote Pierre Bourdieu: "like a sign or, more exactly, like an allegory, it expresses unequivocally a transcendent significance and multiplies the notations able to compose, without ambiguity, the virtual speech that it is supposed to transmit" ("Un art: moyen: essai sur les usages sociaux de la photographie ", Bordieu, 1965). The semiology of the church of Panjora stressed the attribution of importance to the shared architectures, mixed and, sometimes, re-used in other geo-cultural contexts. 130 – S. PAULO, MACAU Illustrating this kind of situations, look the frontage of the Jesuit Church of Saint Paul, in Macao: the West and the East juxtaposed, there is also some user- friendliness between stylistics grammars, on a basis of the architectonic order of Neo-classicism. The complexity of the iconographic program of Saint Paul reveals, by itself only, the quibble and, at the same time, the deep knowledge of the Chinese cultural ambience. JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

Now let us jump to the South of Brazil: 131- Nª SRA. DO Ó, SABARÁ / FORTALEZA DE ANHATOMIRIM the chinoiseries that were made halfway of the return of the Portuguese, coming from the East to Europe, are also present at Azores. And it would be the extraordinary effort of the settlement in the South of Brazil by people of Azores, namely in , for the management of the diplomatic crisis of the Mar de la Plata, that made possible the only site in the world (except for some recent exceptions) 132 – IMPÉRIOS, ILHA DE STA. CATARINA where constructions of the "Empire" of the Holy Spirit exist, even if the devotion is practised a little bit in all Brazilian States - as that just named of the Holy Spirit (by the side of the one of Santa Catarina), or Pará and Maranhão, in the North. As with Genetics announcing the change of new genes with advantage, one discovers an evolution of the inheritance, once a national origin shows that it becomes another entity, with autonomous qualities. Owing to a process of sharing, an equivalent architecture overcomes, neither dying nor simply remaining neutral. 133 – MESQUITA PORTO NOVO 134 – FACHADA OPOSTA (SKIRA) Then it is time to admit that built heritage is something alive, and then architecture would have reached in all the line. 135 – DETALHE DA FACHADA, PORTO NOVO The proof is verified in the most astonishing way, in the case of the Portuguese Expansion, with the existence of architectures of turn-voyage, connecting the distant Orient to Europe, initially stopping a while at Brazil, to be present in its splendour as in the case of the production of the "empires" of the Holy Spirit at Azores. 136 – MAPA AÇORES The cult of the Holy Spirit, having no physical support in the European continent, starting from the 17th/18th centuries, would establish a typology of the architecture of the sacred exclusive to the Portuguese islands of the North of the Atlantic JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

(with unique exceptions to the referred one single Brazilian place). This typology appears to find its raison d'être in the experiment of the recognition of the East as the support of a new aesthetics, validated by the communities of the archipelago, in which one can recognize a syncretism in religious characteristics, resulting in a strongly rooted insular culture. While acting on an architecture of turn-voyage, the explanation for the "Imperios" of the Holy Spirit starts to gain its contours in the inaugural moment of the voyage of Vasco da Gama to India, considering that its regiment established the rules (maintained by the following centuries) of the meeting of the ships in the Island of Terceira for the united departure to make the trip in convoy, in direction of Lisbon. With the archipelago of Azores, and specially in Terceira, the dominant typology of the "Imperio" is the volumetric composition isolated with three openings at the frontage (being the door in the middle), under a triangular pediment, which is richly worked on stylization of the curves of the composition. At the top, the crown, and in the pediment, the dove pigeon, signifying the Holy Spirit. The cult of the Holy Spirit, as an expression of freedom, admits exceptions, even if in a limited number. 137- FONTINHAS E TERRA CHÃ The pictures I show you give account of the direction of urban integration of the buildings of the cult, respectively the "Império" of Fontinhas (with the "despensa" at side, for the provisions of the ritual meal - the "bodo" or "função" -, being used as a butchery, after the ritual slaughtering of calves) and the "Império" of Terra Chã (built-in in a face of a street of the village). 138 – SERRETA, ALTARES Some few times the pediment is missed, as in the "Impérios" of Serreta and Praia da Vitória. The cross placed at the "Império" of Altares is another exception. 139 – PRAIA DA VITÓRIA, FONTE DO BASTARDO We also can look at the use of a notable combination of colours, frequently JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

changing from one year to another. 140 – PORTO JUDEU DE BAIXO, MEIO DA RUA 141 – GALINHO / PORTO JUDEU, CASA DA RIBEIRA Those examples are quite representative of the stylistic expression of this type of new architecture, with revivalist and always original elements, by showing a cosmopolitanism of Oriental influences - a Portuguese architecture which never existed in Portugal of the old Europe, in spite of the fact that the Cult of the Holy Spirit was already rooted there much before the discovery of Azores. The popular Cult of the Holy Spirit, taking part of the socio-anthropological approximation to a Portuguese specificity, is the source of the reason of the attribution of the Portuguese mission to construct the "Fifth Empire" of Vieira, Pessoa and others, the spiritual Empire that will make the congregation of Humanity.

142 - …………………………………………………………… 10 - CONCLUSION The multicultural approach to the shared heritage of the European colonial Empires will be able to provide us new scenarios to work for protection and activation of the value of this type of heritage for social and economic dynamics. Within a framework of sustained development, interesting the international co- operation and considering the construction of the Peace in the world, the rehabilitation of the heritage to which people are culturally linked, gains each time an increased importance, in order to anchor the development of a community. Almost two generations after the first winds of the post-colonial era, we discover substantial differences between manners of being European in the different Empires, at the places that were subjected to the economic exploitation, which made their reason of existence. Among all, Portugal was the country that organized the vastest cultural diversity, both in Space and in Time. The urban and architectural overseas experiment that was carried out by Portugal, embracing a scale and a capacity of a multipurpose articulation without JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

precedents - and never more equalized – occurs as the singular availability of the scientific and technological knowledge, as well as the religious motivation, in the basis of new attitudes implemented from the discoveries themselves and of awareness, first and extended, of the World. In such a geographical embrace, Portuguese knew how to adapt the forms to make a favourable domination of such great and complex relations. Even among Portuguese historians, it is not clear how could be the enormous effort made by a small nation, later stabilized with the creation of Brazil and, more recently, the new independent countries of Africa, about thirty years ago, and Timor Leste, the newest state of the world, at the dawn of the 21st century. Some facts of the Portuguese history are interpreted like specific of a singular culture, as it is affirmed by various famous authors, Magalhães Godinho, Orlando Ribeiro, Barradas de Carvalho and Luís d' Albuduerque, for example. And before them, in 1930, Jaime Cortesão wrote that one owes the Expansion " not as one immediate national need but as the needs for European civilization and by the conviction that such a mission belonged to Portuguese". Others, like Michel Oriol, support that "the history of Portuguese constitutes a resource particularly justifying, in situation of exile, because it melts the representation of a capacity not to be lost, but on the contrary, to be discovered and develop in the experiment of the cultural exchange" ("Du navigateur proletaire, l´histoire comme ressource identitaire dans la diaspora portugaise", Migrations et Mediterranée, nº31/32, 1985). More recently, Eduardo Lourenço synthesized: "while modern European culture, one of the originalities of our culture was that circumstance of being, between the 15th and 17th centuries, the singular and multiform expression of the “European glance” on the other cultures and, which is not less important, the reflex of the glance of the other on Europe" ("Portugal como cultura/A nau de Ícaro", 1999). For the discovery and meeting of two thirds of the world, unknown until the end of the Middle Ages, Portugal carried out an extraordinary combination of factors, as the one of the logistic capacity, the scientific knowledge, the technical enabling, with the financial resources and the sacrifices and the sufferings of the people, JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

as well as the capacity acquired by a European State of a new type. In the present state of things of the so-called contemporary globalisation, it will be useful to reflect, in connection with knowing how to deny the inevitability of a false equalization, which supports the losses of autonomy and of cultural assertion of each community. The cultural heritage is the identity mark of the future, in the kaleidoscope of people who inhabit the planet. Today, more than 200 million people use the Portuguese language as their own, and hundreds and hundreds of cultural items from Portuguese character are part of the foundation and life of thousands of communities, a little bit everywhere. Such a vast patrimonial value became decisive for some strategies of endurable development - because the condition of the heritage itself is its capacity of use of the references where the best know-how is rooted, unique in its genuineness and allowing the exercise of the citizenship, conscious of its singular place in the concert of Human Civilization.

143 - …………………………………………………………… ADDENDA – A PROMENADE IN TANGIER At the golden time of the Portuguese Colonial Empire, cities were used for many things, including as a dubious destination of gifts, with all that interested - especially the work of people and taxes of the activities. Tangier, and also Bombay, composed the dowry of Princess Catarina of Portugal for the marriage with Charles II of England, in 1661. English remained there for a short time, leaving in 1684. As we see, the colonial cities could change hands very easily, as it happened with Tangier, after Portuguese and British, also with French and Spanish, at the same time giving the support of life of a population which became, along the centuries, a window of user-friendliness vis-à-vis to the giant of Gibraltar, between Arabs and Berbers, Jews and Europeans. Septa (the first – and probably the last – colonial city in Africa), a large city like JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

Tangier, inaugurated in 1415 the Portuguese Expansion. It became Spanish by the willing of its European inhabitants, following the recovery of national independence of Portugal in 1640, after six decades of union with Spain. But let us turn over to Tangier for our walk: when we look at the image of the book 144 - BRÁUNIO LIVRO DAS CIDADES of Braunio (“Civitates Orbis Terrarum”, a best-seller published in the 15th century), bellow on the right we can see – bellow, on the right –, a long safety device, with double parallel walls - what we call "couraça" (a protection connecting the walled city into the point of a faster loading, at the harbour). The vestiges of this portion of the fortress are still very visible, but the presence of the older urban traces is at better length announced on one of the faces of the street, coming from the port to the kashba. The medina contains the oldest and best walls for protection, built after the conquest of the city in 1471. A modern balustrade appears, crowning the stones of a half-bastion of the wall. 145 - 2 TORREÕES SEMICIRCULARES Another round half-bastion is shown, from the beginning of the Portuguese times, in a crossroad of an heterogeneous morphology. 146 – OUTRA PERSPECTIVA COM ANTIGA PORTA Following the more direct course to the high part of the city, we note that it is a true rampart the massive volume of construction, an indicator that it benefited from a dimensioned composition. 147 - COMEÇO DA RUA 148 - ACESSOS A NOVOS ESPAÇOS/FUNÇÕES The other side of the street is not occupied by constructions, except a large wall which is maintained. Then, the awakening of the evolution of the city is obvious: this street is the "couraça" of the engraving of "Civitates Orbis Terrarum", published more than five hundred years ago. 149 - 150 - EXERCÍCIOS DE ESTILO The warlike face of the long wall is changed by multiple openings and balconies, on the various levels, JOÃO CAMPOS ______A R Q U I T E C T O RUA DE SANTA LUZIA, 181-B 4250-417 PORTO - PORTUGAL - TEL. 351.228329594 FAX. 351.228329596 EMAIL [email protected]

151 - ÂNGULO DA MURALHA with people coming to open the windows or putting the linen to dry. Inside this heavy mass of masonry the radio gives the newest top of the Moroccan pop songs... 152- 153 - 154 - THE CONDITION OF THE DOOR IS RENEWED and, 155 – PORTA if we return, we will be immerse at the same time in an European and Muslim atmosphere… A world to be discovered. 156 - DETALHE E INTERIOR DA CIDADE Continuing, on the right 157 - until what remains of a bastion, 158 – hang up by a more recent specimen of an European architecture, known as international... 159 - It is already the zone of the bazaar of the fruits and vegetables. 161 – and we observe the profile of the old fortress and the long way that we have just made, while thinking of the richness of the lives shared in an heritage built according to a programme of eternity of the town, but going throughout another destinies, a lot of mixed influences and lessons to be taken. Let us look at the plate with the street name of our journey: it is the Street of Portugal. 162.