THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER The Square 04

WINTER 2018 CANDLE POWER ART & CULTURE PASSPORT

Welcome to this Pimlico’s artisan We take a look at a selection Film pick for this winter Pimlico-based publication candlemaker and wax of the diverse sculptural season is the cultural classic featuring the best of London’s evangelist, Rachel Vosper heritage in Pimlico ‘Passport to Pimlico’ wintertime events

1 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

‘Roller Skater’ sculpture by André Wallace on Vauxhall Bridge Road.

2 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Welcome

Welcome to the fourth issue of our magazine. Winter has well and truly arrived, and so has the season of festivities.

In this edition we explore some of Pimlico’s diverse architectural and sculptural heritage; get some top tips for preparing festive game; light a candle in the dark with local candlemaker Rachel Vosper; and finally hunker down for a classic 50s film set right here in Pimlico.

Neil Miller-Chalk Editorial Director

Contributors:

Joseph Pierce Bryan McMorran Laura Wilson Imogen Lepere Editor Feature Writer Photographer Imogen Lepere is an award- Since graduating from the A salesman, consultant and Laura is a Brighton-based winning wordsmith based in University of Portsmouth with connoisseur, Bryan has been lifestyle, food, travel and London with a lot to say on an MA in History, Joseph has involved in buying and selling commercial photographer. food, travel and pretty much been working as a freelance some of the world’s finest cars everything else. writer, editor and novelist. for over 25 years.

Design & Art Direction: Hutton Farquhar www.huttonfarquhar.com Photography: Laura Wilson 3 Illustration: Catherine Waite - Map Pages 22-25

THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Wonderful Winter Wonderland

I will gaze at the stars, And maybe even Mars, They are all so bright, On a wonderful clear winter night, Feeling the breeze, Watching the trees, They’re swaying with grace, In this peaceful little place, Time moves on, more and more, It’s getting colder than it was before, People are sick and sneezing, Because this weather is so freezing, One of the prettiest times of year, Winter season is finally here, 32 is the magic number, For a white blanket as you slumber, Yummy things like hot chocolate and s’mores, Cookies, treats, and sweets galore, A fascinating season Winter is, With it’s beauty, peace, and bliss, Christmas is almost here, A holiday filled with such cheer, Giving and getting so many things, Being with family, enjoying everything it brings, You had already made your list, You wake up and hope to find your wish, Unwrap the box and look inside, You saw your wish and nearly cried, Oh man, how wonderful winter can be, From the holidays to the scenery, My favourite thing, however, I’m having trouble deciding, Everything is great, and it’s only just arriving.

By Evermore

4

THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Contents

Inside this issue of The Square 22 PIMLICO’S SCULPTURES 16 Explore a selection from the LET THE GAMES BEGIN rich and diverse sculptural Healthier, cheaper and heritage of Pimlico. more sustainable than most meats, game might just be the perfect winter meal. Imogen Lepere sings its praises and tells you how to make the most of the season. 20 WHY NOT TRY In this issue we take a look at various seasonal activities, such as enjoying the perfect winter day out at Somerset House.

10 CANDLE MAKER 36 Nestled down in Pimlico is PASSPORT TO PIMLICO artisan candlemaker and wax We love Pimlico and everything evangelist, Rachel Vosper, a associated with it, so our film warm light in well-wintered pick could only be this cultural London. classic.

5 LOCAL NEWS, OUT & ABOUT PIMLICO

LONDON’S UP- for lunches, dinners, award THE PETER PAN CUP AND-COMING ceremonies and conferences. CHEFS SHOWCASE Westminster Kingsway College’s alumni include many celebrated THEIR TALENT chefs and entrepreneurs, such THIS CHRISTMAS as Jamie Oliver, Ainsley Harriott, Antony Worrall Thompson, Henry The Vincent Rooms at Westminster Herbert, Dennis Mwakulua, Kingsway College is one of Central Sophie Wright and Ben Murphy London’s hidden treasures. all of who have raised the bar Conveniently situated in the and inspired others to follow a beautiful surroundings of Vincent career in the hospitality industry. Square, it offers an exclusive high-quality dining experience During term-time they offer and superior levels of service, diners the opportunity to see how Enjoy an alternative Christmas Day experience with dishes cooked and served by today’s students are progressing watching the epic annual race across the exceptionally trained students. as well as a chance to meet and Serpentine Lake in Hyde Park. The yearly encourage the best of London’s tradition has been going strong since 1864, with All income raised from The Vincent talent at very reasonable prices. the 100-yard race gaining its namesake from Rooms goes back into the School novelist J.M. Barrie following the success of his of Culinary Arts & Hospitality. A Christmas menu will operate renowned tale, Peter Pan. Tickets are sold in from 3rd to 20th December The dining rooms include The advance, but spectators are advised to wrap up Brasserie and the exclusive, more warm (unlike the competitors). formal Escoffier Restaurant. Both are available to hire For more information visit For more information visit thevincentrooms.co.uk serpentineswimmingclub.com/our-special-races

6 LOCAL NEWS, OUT & ABOUT PIMLICO

NEW YEARS EVE FIREWORKS LONDON SHORT

2018 is coming to close, and 31st December? Since 2014, FILM FESTIVAL what a year it has been. the famed event has been Approaching its 16th year, Here’s to a memorable 2019! ticketed, so be sure to book London Short Film Festival your tickets ahead of time - has been recognised as the Making plans to join the they sell out fast. premier UK showcase for thousands of attendees cutting-edge homegrown at the Thames-side New For more information visit and international short film. Year’s firework display this london.gov.uk/events From 11th to 20th January, the London Short Film Festival will be showcasing only the best independent short films - documentaries, comedies and animations will be in abundance. LONDON Expect live events, screenings, talks and ART FAIR workshops to celebrate our Running from 16th to 20th city’s lively film culture. Films January, the 31st London range from 5 to 45 minutes Art Fair will bring together in length. lovers of sculpture, painting, ceramics, photography and For more information visit more. Over 100 galleries will shortfilms.org.uk be exhibiting work this year, HOGWARTS IN THE SNOW AT from contemporary pieces WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR to the big names of the 20th century. The art fair is 17th Nov – 27th Jan held at the Business Design Experience the magic of Harry Potter with the Warner Centre just a few minutes Bros. Studio Tour. Wander the Great Hall itself and take stroll from Angel Tube in the wonderous props used in the filming the cult hit Station. Tickets are available franchise. If that is not reason enough, from the 17th now. November through to the 27 January the miniature model of Hogwarts Castle will be blanketed in snow. There is no For more information visit better time to book a ticket and see the magic for yourself. londonartfair.co.uk

NEW YEAR’S Christmas Offer DAY PARADE 10% DISCOUNT With the New Year comes ON AMELIA ROPE a new wave of celebration. CHOCOLATES With more than 8,000 international performers, dancers, acrobats and Amelia’s award-winning Colombian chocolate bars marching bands walking are a must-have for any chocolate fan. They make a perfect the streets of London’s gift for family, friends, tutors, your team and to woo potential West End, there never clients too. Amelia is offering a 10% discount on all orders of was a better way to bring £30.00 or more to all residents of Dolphin Square. Simply in the new year than pop in the code Hello at the checkout. with the New Year’s Day Parade. With over 600,000 Offer ends 20/12/18 spectators every year, it’s a For more information visit difficult one to miss! ameliarope.com/collections/all/ 7 LOCAL NEWS, OUT & ABOUT PIMLICO

Featuring the Mozart CAROLS BY Festival Orchestra, with CANDLELIGHT conductor Steven Devine, soprano Fflur Wyn and This year the Barbican special guest reader Peter Hall will host Candles by Davison, the concert takes Candlelight, a concert place on 23rd December of Christmas carols and at 2:30pm, and is within seasonal classics to welcome walking distance of the in the festive season. In Barbican, St Paul’s and sublime candlelight and Moorgate Underground dressed in classic 18th stations. century costume, the event promises to be a truly unforgettable evening for For more information visit the entire family. barbican.org.uk

TATE BRITAIN medieval art, religion, myths outsider with little formal art Highlights include some and legends. training to one of the most of his best loved works, EXHIBITION; influential British artists of such as paintings telling EDWARD He made spectacular works the late 19th century. With the dreamlike fairytale BURNE-JONES depicting Arthurian knights, over 150 objects, it will bring of Sleeping Beauty, wall- classical heroes and Biblical together major works from filling tapestries and his As one of the last Pre- angels, working with many across his career for the remarkable drawings. Raphaelites, Edward mediums - painting, stained first time in generations. Ends 24th February 2019. Burne-Jones brought glass, embroidery, jewellery imaginary worlds to life in and more. With his friend awe-inspiring paintings, William Morris, Edward was stained-glass windows and a pioneer of the arts and tapestries. crafts movement that aimed to bring beautiful design to Born in 1833, Burne-Jones the people. rejected the industrial world of the Victorians, looking This exhibition charts instead for inspiration from Burne-Jones’s rise from an

8 LOCAL NEWS, OUT & ABOUT PIMLICO

CHANUKAH IN AT THE THEATRE TRAFALGAR This winter... SQUARE The television phenomenon Now is your chance to It’s the UK’s biggest annual Only Fools and Horses head to the Victoria Palace celebration of the eight-day arrives for its stage debut Theatre and catch the hit festival of light, attracting on the 9th February. musical sensation, Hamilton. thousands of people for a Join Tom Bennett, Paul Tickets are available now in day of live music and family- Whitehouse and Ryan advance for March 2019. friendly fun. Hutton for this musical escapade at the Theatre Disney’s The Lion King is Royal Haymarket. continuing its run at the MAKE Lyceum Theatre for the YOUR OWN The hit Broadway musical, foreseeable future, so there TRADITIONAL Chicago, is finishing its run is no better time like the at the Phoenix Theatre on present to experience the FIGGY PUDDING the 5th January, so make circle of life in all its musical sure you’ve experienced this glory. Dating back to the 16th American classic before it’s century, this early version of banged up for good! Finally, take a chance this the Christmas pudding used winter and see Abba’s mashed figs thickened with Mamma Mia at the Novello bread. Theatre. Tickets are on sale now. Figgy pudding can be baked, fried, boiled or In the UK and all around steamed in the oven, and the world, Jewish adults there are many early recipes and children celebrate this available - one example can festival of lights, also called be found in the classic Mrs Hanukkah, to honour one Beeton’s Book of Household of the greatest miracles in Management. Jewish history. The festival’s date changes every year depending on the Hebrew Ingredients calendar, but it will always 110g plain flour fall in November or 110g suet December. 110g breadcrumbs 1 tsp baking powder WINTER WONDERLAND 110g sugar AT HYDE PARK pinch salt pinch of ground nutmeg Hyde Park is never one to bemoan dressing up for the festive 225 g chopped dried figs season. This year, the Winter Wonderland will be dazzling 2 eggs from 22nd November through to 6th January. With the UK’s 210 ml milk largest outdoor ice rink and the brand-new Snowman Method experience (based on the animated classic) Hyde Park’s 2018 Christmas Extravaganza will be sure to entertain. Grease a 2-pint pudding bowl. Mix the flour, suet, breadcrumbs, baking powder, sugar, salt, nutmeg and figs in a mixing bowl. In celebration of this 2,500 Beat the eggs and milk together, year-old tradition, the nine then stir into the flour mixture. Pour into the pudding bowl, cover branches of the Trafalgar with a piece of well-greased Square Menorah will be lit greaseproof paper. Tie the paper for each day of the festival, around the rim of the bowl with twine. Lower into a large pan of so be sure to take a look and boiling water that rises to halfway enjoy the occasion. up the sides of the bowl.

Pop the lid on and steam for 2 hrs. For more information visit Check occasionally that the water chabad.org.uk hasn’t evaporated.

9 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

“Better to light a candle...

10 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

...than curse the darkness” Nestled down Kinnerton Street is artisan candlemaker and wax evangelist, Rachel Vosper - a warm light in well-wintered London.

Rachel’s journey began on a Barbados beach in and upon moving back to her native UK, she continued 1994, and with a chance encounter that began a the business she had meticulously built and opened lifelong passion. After being asked to help out in a her shop on Kinnerton Street. local Barbadian candlemaker’s, a whole new world was opened up to her. “I just fell in love with the whole Rachel’s emphasis on the bespoke nature of her process at first pour,” says Rachel. “My six-month trip products have helped a great deal in building her extended to four years… which sparked a passion that brand prestige. “There has been a real renaissance in would lead to the creation of my own signature brand time-honoured traditional crafts that focus on quality and Belgravia flagship in 2011.” and originality,” says Rachel. “The value of my product is in the handmade, original nature; for customers who The steep learning curve didn’t deter Rachel one bit, want something special and well made.”

11 THE SQUARE - LOCAL BUSINESS FOCUS THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Originality and uniqueness are the hallmarks of Rachel’s brand. When asked what it is exactly that makes her business so unique, Rachel cited her refill service: a service that allows clients to bring back used Rachel’s original products have made votives from the shop or provide their own vessels to significant waves in both the private and be made into candles. “I like being given the chance corporate spheres, including a recent to use something sentimental and old that has been partnership with Virgin Airlines and being brought in - perhaps it’s been tucked away in a selected as one of Walpole British Luxury’s cupboard for years or inherited - then given a new Brands of Tomorrow. lease of life.”

12 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

rachelvosper.com Interested in the art of candlemaking ?

Courses offered Each candle making session gives Rachel the chance to remind herself of the creativity involved in her As well as selling her bespoke candles, Rachel also work, and she endeavours to convey that to students offers candle-making courses for anybody interested of the course. “Each customer receives a personal in the process. “I think people are generally interested service tailored to their home and lifestyle, which is in learning and love the traditional nature of my combined to make a product that is truly unique to work. The art of candle making itself is a rewarding them.” Rachel loves the client interaction and takes and enriching method and I am resurrecting this pride in knowing that what they have just created is through my bespoke candle making courses.” going to a good home. THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

HIDDEN GEMS

Dovers Flowers Family-run business trading since the roaring twenties

23 Churton St, Pimlico, London SW1V 2LY Tel 020 7834 8784

14 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

15 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Let the games begin

16 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Healthier, cheaper and more sustainable than most meats, game might just be the perfect winter meal. Imogen Lepere sings its praises and tells you how to make the most of the season.

Christmas is coming, which means the we’ve been searching for. It’s leaner than pheasant, partridge and goose is getting fat. many farmed options and not pumped full Game season is finally here and my kitchen of growth hormones, tends to be cheaper (a is once again a shrine to wild meat. Come pheasant is generally £4.50, while an organic Sunday, the air is normally thick with the chicken may cost twice as much) and is far smell of roasting grouse, to be served in the more sustainable. The game industry spends time-honoured way alongside bread sauce, around £250 million every year conserving redcurrant jelly and confit potatoes crispy with some of the UK’s most fragile habitats and duck fat. is currently responsible for 343,983 ha of our heather moorland, a landscape that plays I’m practically evangelical about the benefits a crucial role in absorbing carbon dioxide of game compared to farmed meat. In an age emissions thanks to its peaty soil. Believe me, I where many of us are reconsidering our meat could go on. Pity those poor souls who end up consumption, game is the delicious answer next to me at dinner parties…

17 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Another thing to love about game is that it is like an around the meat and spoil it. If you’re a newcomer to edible map of the UK. Whether the animal grazed on game, ask your butcher to try meat at different stages the upland moorlands or clover-rich pastures of the of aging to work out what you like best; it all comes West Country, feasted on wild berries in Scotland’s down to personal taste. forests or pecked grains from East Anglia’s fertile fields will all have a noticeable impact on its flavour and texture. In fact, its geographical origin has as much of an effect on the meat as terroir does on wine. Few foods connect us more with the beautiful island we call home.

The other factor that has the most impact on game meat is the aging process, which tenderises it and Game seasons adds rich, complex layers of flavour. Most game birds are hung for up to five days in a cool room that’s For most game animals there is a closed generally around 5°C, while ground game - such as season when it is illegal to shoot them venison - may be hung for more than two weeks. If because they’re breeding and rearing their you’re hanging your own, remember to remove the young. Therefore, avoid fresh game outside guts from ground game and avoid birds that have the shooting season - although frozen game been shot in the stomach; the intestines tend to spread can be enjoyed all year round. Pheasant 1st Oct – 1st Feb Partridge 1st Sep – 1st Feb Fallow deer 1st Nov – 31st Mar Pleased Pigeon 1st Jan – 31st Dec to meat you Brown Hare 1st Jan – 31st Dec From local butchers to luxury condiments, Imogen Lepere’s top tips will keep you at the top of your game.

A Chelsea stalwart since 1972, Jago’s is a fabulous family-run butcher’s on Chelsea Green that has an excellent choice of game The only cardinal rule when cooking game is not to overdo when in season. jagobutchersofchelsea. it as it is less fatty than other meats and dries out very co.uk quickly. Other than that, you’ll be amazed by its versatility. Sticking with the chef’s adage of ‘what grows together goes Rosebud Preserves’ redcurrant jelly is as together’, I like to pair mine with seasonal, wild ingredients. sharp and pure as a morning walk on the Partridge and meaty winter chanterelles. Venison alongside Yorkshire dales, which is where it is crafted sticky stewed sloes. Blushing pigeon with poached quince. in small batches. Buy it online or at Borough I always keep a supply of elderberries in the freezer over Market. £3.60. rosebudpreserves.co.uk winter as they go so well with duck; try boiling them with cider vinegar to make a traditional pontack sauce. After Game: River Cottage Handbook No.15 the first bite of strong, savoury, game meat, an insipid (Bloomsbury Publishing, 2015) by Tim supermarket chicken never cuts the mustard again. Maddams is a fantastically detailed guide to shooting and preparing game. £11.89. whsmith.co.uk

Guarantee perfectly cooked meat every time with this digital thermometer that doubles up as a carving fork. From £9.49. andrewjamesworldwide.com

Feeling too lazy to cook? Rules has been privately owned since 1798 and specialises in traditional game dishes. It’s an easy stroll from Pimlico along the Thames to Covent Garden. rules.co.uk

18 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Make your own: Individual Partridge, Leek and Ham Pithiviers

Recipe by Jozef Roguiski Executive Chef at The Game Bird, The Stafford London.

One of Mayfair’s best restaurants, The Game Bird, is A pithivier is a round pie hailing from the Orléans the home of modern British soul food. Executive Chef region of France. It’s an impressive dish with comfort Jozef Roguiski shares his favourite game recipe here. at its core - perfect for chilly evenings.

Serves 6 Roll out your pastry. With a circular cutter (around Ingredients 12cm in diameter), create six pastry circles. With a slightly larger cutter, create six larger circles to be 60g butter the lid of the pies. 2 egg yolks 500g of shortcrust pastry Divide the ham hock mixture into six, then press each into a compact ball and balance on top of Ham hock a partridge breast. Place the combined meat mix 120g leeks, diced on top of the smaller pastry discs, brushing the 8g truffle paste edges with egg yolk to act as a glue. Place the 6 partridge breasts larger pastry circle on top, pressing the two pieces firmly together at the edges. Wash with egg yolk Begin by placing the ham hock in a bowl of water and cook for 20 minutes at 185ºC. for 72 hours to remove the salt. Rinse thoroughly, add to a saucepan of water and simmer until cooked through. Once cooked, shred and allow to cool.

Next, add 60g of butter to a separate pan and cook the leeks until soft, then add the truffle paste. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Mix the shredded ham hock, leeks and truffle mix together and set aside. The Stafford London.

19 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

WHY NOT TRY

Somerset House Ice Skating Enjoy the perfect winter day out at Somerset House. somersethouse.org.uk

20 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

21 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Exploring Pimlico’s Sculptural Heritage

Take a look at a small selection from the rich and diverse sculptural heritage of Pimlico.

1 The Helmsman

A modern work by sculptor André Wallace, The Helmsman depicts a helmeted nude male shaped in bronze at the helm of a boat. The sculpture came from the artist’s fascination with journeys and transportation, and aptly reflects the area’s maritime culture. 2 William Huskisson Memorial 3 A Victorian piece by sculptor John Gibson, the statue The Queen Mother’s of William Huskisson, MP and Statesman, is dressed Commemorative Fountain in a toga and sandals in classical style. Originally commissioned for the Custom House of Liverpool, Erected in Bessborough Gardens in 1980, this the statue was moved to the Royal Exchange before fountain dedicated to the Queen Mother was based finding its final site in Pimlico Gardens in 1915. on a cast of the George John Vulliamy streetlamp Outside of his career in government, Huskisson is base that stood on the Thames Embankment. It most commonly known as the first publicised railway was designed by Peter Shepherd and features two casualty, having been run over and killed by George sturgeon fish entwined together. Stephenson’s locomotive engine, Rocket.

22 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER 4 Cooling Tower Panels

Situated between the underground station and Tate Modern, it was constructed as a midpoint marker. It’s made up of a sculptured encasement for the Tube’s air conditioning unit. The cast iron panels were the work of Eduardo Paolozzi, who has a series of work linked to the London Underground system.

5 Roller Skates

An original sculpture produced by André Wallace as part of an effort to celebrate the youth and vitality of such an urban location. The sculpture stands over six feet tall and shows a youthful women skating through a busy street within SW1.

6 Thomas Cubitt Statue

Standing adjacent to his own workshops off Denbigh Street, is William Fawke’s statue of Thomas Cubitt- master builder and architect of many of London’s historic streets and squares. You may have walked across some of his designs in Belgravia, Bloomsbury and Pimlico. Cubitt’s statue is depicted in the act of measuring a brick with his yardstick. 7 Shack Stack

Shack Stack located at Grosvenor Waterside was created in 2010 by sculptor Richard Wilson. It is an aluminium sculpture inspired by the ramshackle nature of the sheds often found in British allotments. Richard Wilson was born in Islington, London and studied at the London College of Printing, Hornsey College of Art and Reading University. He was nominated for the Turner Prize in both 1988 and 1989.

23 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER Sculpture Trail

1) The Helmsman - 2) William Huskisson 3) The Queen Mother’s 4) Cooling Tower Panels - André Wallace Memorial - John Gibson Commemorative Eduardo Paolozzi Pimlico Pimlico Rd, SW1V 3QY. Pimlico Gardens. Fountain - Peter Underground Station. This piece depicts a Huskinsson is dressed in Shepherd Bessborough The piece makes up of a helmeted nude shaped a toga and sandals in Gardens. Features two sculptured encasement in bronze at the helm of classical style. sturgeon fish entwined for the undergrounds air a boat. together. conditioning unit. 24 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

5) Roller Skater - André 6) Statue of Thomas Cubitt 7) Shack Stack - Richard Wallace Vauxhall Bridge - William Fawke 75 Wilson Grosvenor Road. The sculpture Denbigh St. The statue is Waterside. An aluminium 52 min (2.6 miles) stands over six feet tall of Thomas Cubitt, builder sculpture inspired by MOSTLY FLAT and shows a youthful and architect of many the ramshackle sheds woman skating through a of the historic streets of often found in British busy street. London. allotments. 25 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Imogen Lepere follows the smell of glühwein to Europe’s ultimate Christmas markets.

26 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Combining historic settings with quirky local traditions and delicious food, these short breaks are guaranteed to get you in the festive spirit. The best thing? You can reach them all from Gatwick, with a direct train from Victoria.

Vienna Tallinn Austria Estonia

17th November – 26th December 16th November – 07th January

Children lacing up their ice skates, air Situated on the cobbled Town Hall heavy with the spices of glühwein (hot Square, Tallinn’s Christmas Market looks wine) and wooden huts sparkling with like a scene from a Victorian Christmas frost – Vienna’s Rathaus Market delivers card. The twinkling wooden huts unfurl on all of these clichés and so many from an enormous Christmas tree, more. It’s one of the biggest, gaudiest which has been put up every year since and most over-the-top on our list, plus 1441. Tuck into steaming plates of black it boasts the glimmering arches and pudding and sour cabbage before towers of the neo-Gothic town hall as visiting Father Christmas in his candlelit its backdrop. For something slightly grotto. If he asks, you’ve been good… more understated, head to Spittelberg’s Frost is guaranteed, while a dusting of narrow streets, which will be lined by snow often adds to the magical festive stalls offering handmade ceramics and setting. silver jewellery.

MORE FESTIVE FUN MORE FESTIVE FUN

Vienna has one of the world’s longest Christmas Jazz is a two-week ballet traditions and little could be festival at the start of December more festive than slipping into one that sees churches, bars and cafés of the red velvet boxes at the Vienna transformed into intimate venues for State Opera House to watch The concerts. jazzkaar.ee Nutcracker, showing on selected nights throughout December. wiener-staatsoper.at

27 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Venice Edinburgh Salzburg Italy Scotland Austria

23rd December – 24th December 17th November – 05th January 22nd November – 26th December

The most romantic city on Earth hardly Its Gothic spires and misty lanes feel Nestled between the formidable needs more to recommend it than magical all year round (it is where J.K. Hohensalzburg fortress and venerable palaces lining medieval canal systems Rowling dreamed up Harry Potter after cathedral, Salzburg’s Christkindlmarkt and handmade pasta in family-run all), but the Scottish capital really comes is our pick for anyone with an interest in trattorias. Yet, come Christmas, it has into its own over the festive period, history. Icicles form on the roofs of the the added appeal of scores of classy when Hogmanay brings bagpipers little huts that glow with the warmth of markets tucked away in its crumbling and fireworks to the squares and the roasting chestnuts and baking apples, campos. Head to the Palazzo Zenobio’s historic pubs heave with merrymakers. while traditional wind music floats out indoor market for high-end gifts and In the shadow of Edinburgh Castle, the of Residenz Square on Thursday and stylish stocking fillers, and the Campo German-inspired market in East Princes Saturday nights. Nearby, a torch-lit Santo Stefano to buy Venetian glass Street Gardens boasts a selection of courtyard at Hellbrunn Palace hosts a baubles from the lagoon island of locally-made handicrafts and edible small yet eye-wateringly picturesque Murano, as well as pandoro cake snowy gifts like whisky, as well as a twinkling market (24th Nov - 24th Dec) with real with icing sugar. Ferris wheel that’s known locally as ‘the reindeer and 600 trees. Edinburgh Eye’.

MORE FESTIVE FUN MORE FESTIVE FUN MORE FESTIVE FUN

With its rowdy wine bars and student Every day of advent the city St. Peter was one of Mozart’s population, the Dorsoduro area will act like a giant calendar by favourite restaurants and they now offers a glimpse of the ‘real Venice’. welcoming visitors into one of its offer candlelit Christmas dinners At Christmas its narrow streets are most mysterious buildings for free. with a musical interlude between draped in fairy lights, perfect for an edinburghschristmas.com every course. stpeter.at atmospheric evening stroll. visit-venice-italy.com

28 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Copenhagen Strasbourg Seville Denmark France Spain

17th November – 30th December 24th November – 24th December 14th December – 5th January

Every December, something strange The Christmas markets in Strasbourg For an entirely different experience, leave happens in Copenhagen: for a few weeks have been going since 1570, so the that novelty jumper at home and stroll a year, the residents of Europe’s ‘capital of self-proclaimed ‘Capitale de Noël’ has through Seville’s Moorish streets until cool’ embrace Christmas in all its gaudy, had plenty of time to perfect its act. you reach the hip Alameda de Hercules childish joy, before returning to their The honeycomb streets of the old town district, home to the Navideño Mercado usual tasteful minimalism come January. are garlanded with angels and paper de Artesanía de Sevilla. This is Christmas Heritage theme park Tivoli Gardens is at snowflakes, while the half-timbered without the cringe. Think 80 sleek stalls the centre of the action, with half a million buildings are festooned with colourful specialising in artisan goods like pottery twinkling lights and 43 restaurants serving lights - perfect Instagram fodder. There and glass blowing, while chic locals sip everything from roast pork to sugared are no fewer than 11 markets to choose vermouth beneath a canopy of orange almonds. Follow the smell of hot chocolate from, all within easy strolling distance. trees. to the Hans Christian Andersen Christmas Place Broglie specialises in decorations market at Axeltorv (16th Nov - 31st Dec). and Place de la Cathédrale is beautiful Every stall has a different fairytale theme - at night, while the Place du Marché aux perfect for little ones. Poisson is famous for local food.

MORE FESTIVE FUN MORE FESTIVE FUN MORE FESTIVE FUN

Explore the Danish concept of hygge On 24th November the Make the most of the balmy winter (cosiness that leads to a feeling of Niedermorschwihr children’s choir weather with a tapas crawl along the contentment) with a three-hour will perform carols from rowing boats river in Triana. This area was once a Hygge and Happiness walking tour, bobbing on Little Venice’s ancient favourite with sailors and gypsies but stopping for coffee and cake in snug canals. tourisme-alsace.com is now being reimagined by the city’s cafes along the way. coolest restaurateurs. visitasevilla.es getyourguide.com

29

THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Simple Seasonal Measures!

Christmas cheers and New Year’s resolutions: how do they seem to be the most mismatched things ever?

BY KAREN LUCIA Dolphin Square Gym Personal Trainer

All the festivities - including ALL the good food and Let’s go back to our childhood years for a minute. booze - on one side of Sylvester’s night, and so many hopes and #bodygoals on the other. Will this year Many of the exercises I teach my clients are movement be an impossible battle again, or is there something patterns that children instinctively know, yet through we can do to prevent and recover quickly from the years of neglect, the adult body has forgotten. Christmas damage to our figure? Hint: it involves However, with practise the movements usually return, exercise! and with that comes increased strength, flexibility and functionality, and moving correctly speeds up your fat loss goals. Kids typically perform squats and deadlifts without anyone having to show them how. Yet when a de-conditioned adult tries to perform these movements, it may feel unnatural. Sitting on Have you ever couches, chairs and in cars steers our bodies away from natural movement patterns to the point where thought about the we’ve unlearned instinctive habits - like lifting from the exercises you do and legs - and replaced them with lower back pain and why these improve hip ailments. Therefore, the most effective exercises are those fitness and strength, that mimic our previously inherent movements and and burn calories? incorporate them into everyday life, as this encourages our muscles work together.

Once you have re-adapted your body to these movements, you can keep improving and increasing the difficulty by adding weights, working on one leg, changing directions, speeding it up, etc.

30

THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

BELOW ARE FIVE OF THE MOST (TIME) EFFECTIVE COMPOUND EXERCISES THAT FEATURE MULTIJOINT MOVEMENTS AND MORE THAN A SINGLE MUSCLE GROUP, WHICH BENEFITS CARDIOVASCULAR FITNESS, STRENGTH, FLEXIBILITY AND CALORIE BURN.

SQUAT

Like getting in and out of a chair from our 1. most natural seated position

DEADLIFT 2. Like picking a heavy box up from the floor PUSH UP OR CHEST PRESS

Pushing something away (broken-down car, heavy door), or lifting something onto 3. the top kitchen shelf

PULL UP OR DIP

Like pulling or pushing yourself out of a 4. hole or up from the floor

SINGLE ARM BEND

Like a builder using equipment, or a nurse 5. rolling a patient onto his side

By combining these exercises and performing them on For the new year: nail these movements, add some a daily basis, your muscle cells will use more energy steady-state cardio work and start seeing results! than fat cells: strengthening your muscles will turn you into a calorie-burning machine. Dolphin Square Gym: 020 7798 8686

31 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

A Building of Extraordinary Quality

157-197 Buckingham Palace Road. Whether by air, road or rail, the Imperial Airways Empire Terminal put the world on the doorstep of thousands of Londoners.

Imperial Airways Empire Terminal take rail transportation to Imperial’s flying boat base in Hythe (near Southampton), or road transportation In 1939, 157-197 Buckingham Palace Road opened to Croydon airport for its land-based aircraft. its doors to the public as the “finest air terminal in the world,” according to The Times. The Imperial History of the Land Airways Empire Terminal was considered a grand Art Deco marvel, one which dominated the London Old marshland covered the area outside the skyline. With its Wings over the World statue guarding medieval village of Ebury in the 18th century, silty the doors, the building was one of the world’s first and dirty. Upon the industrial revolution, the owner purpose-built city centre air terminals from which of the estate, Lord Grosvenor, opted to progress and passengers could check in for their flights and then converted the old bog into a commercial canal that fed into the City of Westminster.

32 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

33 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

However, the age of the railway soon dawned and As well as its first-class services, Imperial Airways the 19th century saw the basin of Grosvenor’s canal offered a variety of amenities: from the largest converted into an extension of the Battersea line, private telephone exchange in London to a fine dining the eastern side of which was the newly constructed restaurant, foyer and Ladies Retiring Room. Victoria Station. By 1929, the entirety of the canal had been filled in and was used as railway lines. BOAC and Wartime

An Era of Glamour and Luxury Despite its grandeur and location, the building survived the Blitz unscathed. Whilst several windows With direct access to Platform 17 of Victoria Station, were blown out, the building emerged from WWII in the Imperial Airways Empire Terminal linked to an 1945 with only £650 worth of damage. exclusive train comprised of first-class Pullman cars that granted travellers an exemplary service to either Windows were not the only casualties, however. Over Croydon airport – the then dominant airport in the the course of the war, Imperial Airways was acquired country – or Southampton Water for their revolutionary by British Airways to form the British Overseas Airways commercial Seaplane service. Imperial Airways was a Corporation (BOAC). The Seabird - Imperial Airways’ glimpse into the future of glamorous public transport. famed Seaplane service - was slowly replaced by

34 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

a land-based service departing out of Heathrow years the original building was maintained in quiet Airport. Despite this, by the mid-1950s the BOAC homage to Imperial Airways’ famed style. building had seen half a million passengers pass through its marble hall. National Audit Office Now

Enter the National Audit Office Following a two-year refurbishment in the late 2000s, 157-197 Buckingham Palace Road transformed its An underground link to Heathrow Airport spelt out the interior by adopting an open-plan office floorplan. end of British Airways’ occupation on Buckingham Many of the building’s original designs were Palace Road. It was decided that the building would transposed into ones more befitting the 21st century, be sold on in 1982, and by 1984 it had been bought by albeit with subtle nods to its original concepts in the the National Audit Office. form of fluted columns and spherical chandeliers in the reception area. Regardless of these changes, the Much of the building’s interior remained intact building remains to this day an architectural gem, so during the transition, retaining the grandeur of its do stop and give a moment’s thought to the special original design. Whilst modern technology was soon place that this impressive structure in Pimlico has in introduced in the form of computer systems, for many the proud history of British civil aviation.

35 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

-ON INGS IN TH GO E H HE NC A E R R T F O F L O N D O N

SNUGGLE IN FOR A COSY NIGHT WITH THIS LOCAL 50’S CLASSIC.

Now that the colder evenings are here to stay, it’s time to cuddle up on the sofa and stick on a film. Here at The Square, we love Pimlico and everything associated with it, so our film pick could only be the cultural classic, Passport to Pimlico.

36 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

37 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

What’s it about?

When an unexploded bomb is accidentally detonated in Pimlico, a number of artefacts are found beneath the streets – including a collection of curious documents. As it turns out, the then King of England, Edward IV, ceded Pimlico and its surrounding area to the Duke of Burgundy, making the beloved borough of London a Burgundian territory. Pimlico then declares its independence from London, becoming New Burgundy. What follows is an effort on the side of New Burgundy to survive as a state of its own with startlingly real consequences. Follow a cast of colourful characters as they manage the impossible task of converting urban Pimlico into a self-sustaining The film is set during country of its own. a heatwave that occurred in Britain in 1947.

38 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Behind Ealing Studios

Passport to Pimlico’s outdoor Passport to Pimlico is one of many treasured scenes were filmed south of Lambeth motion pictures that emerged from famed production company, Ealing Studios. Since Road, in a place still heavily damaged the early 20th century, Ealing has been at the forefront of the British movie-making scene and by WWII bombings. Nowadays, paving the way for the modern motion picture. the site is home to a series of 1960s From post-war classics like Hearts and Coronets (1949) and The Ladykillers (1955) Ealing has municipal flats. delivered time and time again.

The studio came under the ownership of the BBC in 1955, and it was only in the last 20 years that it came to release films once more under its own synonymous name. You may have heard of some of the studio’s recent releases, which include the reboot of the comedy St Trinians, the dark comedy Shaun of the Dead, the Stephen Hawking biopic, The Theory of Everything, and, The Imitation Game starring Benedict Cumberbatch as codebreaker Alan Turing.

Praise for Pimlico

Passport to Pimlico has received a great deal of praise from critics and historians alike. Many film scholars have hallowed the film’s portrayal of post-wartime spirit, and the film remains, to this day, a cultural gem.

PASSPORT TO PIMLICO WAS DIRECTED BY HENRY CORNELIUS AND FILMED ON 35MM FILMSTOCK.

FROM THE CREATORS OF THE LADYKILLERS COMES THIS RAUCOUS COMEDY FULL OF FUN. ON BLACK Passport to Pimlico was AND WHITE, 35 MM, IT’S A FILM THAT nominated for a number of WILL TAKE YOU BACK TO POST-WWII PIMLICO, AND TO THE LUDICROUS awards, including the Academy WORLD OF EALING STUDIOS. Award for Writing and the British Academy Film Award for Best British Film.

39 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

THE URBAN GARDENER Winter Diary

DECEMBER JANUARY FEBRUARY

Leaves Pruning Cut back Collect up the remaining fallen leaves Prune wisteria side shoots back to Cut back vines and keep them clear and add to your compost bin to rot down. the third growth bud. For rose of gutters and windows. bushes, cut now whilst dormant and Pruning remove any crossing or dead branches. Birds Now is the best time to prune acers and Attract birds by keeping feeders topped vines, otherwise they will bleed sap if Planting up - they will return the favour by eating pruned later in the year. Plant bare root roses, ideally in a sunny the garden pests. position - this will be great for the summer. Patios Plant Scrub away slimy patches with a Cut back Now is the time to plant lilly broom and soapy water or jet wash. Cut back old foliage like ornamental and allium bulbs. grasses; with perennials plants cut Garlands back old stems but be careful of the Pruning Time to create that Christmas garland new growth. Prune apple and pear trees with berries, ivy and leaves from whilst they are still dormant. your garden. Planning Now is the time to sit back by the fire and Borders draw up your garden plan for the year Dig over borders and pile up with ahead; order seeds and bulbs. manure, ready for the winter.

February tip December tip January tip Set up a water butt Look after your fences by treating Avoid walking on your lawn after to start collecting for them with wood preservative to stop a heavy frost or light snowfall, as the summer months. any winter rot. this can damage the grass.

40 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

41 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

Blue Plaque Focus Ian Fleming

The Man with the Golden Pen

Ian Lancaster Fleming, born in 1908, When the Great War broke out, OUNTY OUNTY N C CO N C CO DO UN DO UN N C N C was the eldest of three siblings- two Fleming was assigned to the Director O II O II L L L L younger brothers and a half-sister. of Naval Intelligence, Rear Admiral IAN John Godfrey, under whom he gained At age 10, Fleming attended Durnford a soon-to-be useful experience in FLEMING. School in Dorset, but later stated in a intelligence and espionage. This memoir that he was terribly bullied included overseeing an operation that 1908-1964 during his time there. However, these was aptly named Goldeneye. Creator of educational hardships did not stop there: Fleming enrolled in Eton College Post-war, Fleming settled down in ‘James Bond’ in 1921 only to suffer terribly at the Jamaica where he wrote the draft hands of his house-master, E.V. Slater, for the first of his James Bond novels, who expressed his distaste at Fleming’s Casino Royale. Surprisingly, the book oiled hair products and general was met with a lukewarm reception at womanising attitude. its publishing house, Jonathon Cape. It was Fleming’s brother, Peter, that Following his time at Eton, Fleming was pulled the strings necessary to get it enlisted to the Royal Military College at published. Sandhurst, before dropping out in 1927. After spending some time studying in Several Bond books later, as well as Austria, Fleming finally acquiesced to a children’s book in the form of Chitty his parents’ wishes and joined in on his Chitty Bang Bang, Fleming developed family tradition of a career in finance, a heart condition from his years of all the while continuing his notorious smoking and drinking and died shortly womanising ways. after a meal at his local golf club.

Ian Fleming’s London Residence was at 22 Ebury Street, Belgravia, London SW1W 8LW, City of Westminster

42 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

43 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 4 WINTER

44 www.dolphinsquare.co.uk | Tel: +44 (0)20 7834 3800