Citylife - Page 8 Citylife - Page 13 Citylife European Capital of Culture 2016 Polish Cities in the Running

FREE MARCH 2009 Edition 53 ISSN 1898-4762 krakow POST www.krakowpost.com

NIGEL KENNEDY PLAYS HENDRIX INTERVIEW WITH A BRIDE inside CityLife - Page 8 CityLife - Page 13 Citylife European Capital of Culture 2016 Polish cities in the running

Magdalena Matyjaszek

ast January, the Polish Ministry of Culture and National Herit- age organised a conference together with the International LCultural Centre in Krakow dedicated to a competition among Polish cities aim- ing to apply for the title of European Capital of Culture in 2016. This project is regarded as one of the most representative and recognisable programmes within the cultural activities of the European Union. From 2009 the title of the European Capital of Culture will be attributed to two cities American Secretary of Defence Robert Gates speaks at the NATO Summit / photo Mateusz Majewski in Europe – first from the group of the “old” 15 member states and secondly from the countries that joined the EU NATO'S NEW DIRECTION in 2004. The aim of the initiative is to INSIDE strengthen European cooperation in the field of culture, promoting the cultural Krakow takes centre stage as city hosts Krakow diversity of the member states and help- ing them to broaden their mutual un- NATO Summit Police out in force derstanding. over benefits Wojciech Michnik >> page 4 “Cultural development projects based riday the 19th of ister Donald Tusk organised experiences in the organisa- Poland February was an a reception at the National tion on the 10th anniversary Polish engineer victim only on entertain- extraordinary day Museum where he wel- of its accession. of Taliban ment, without any for Krakow resi- comed distinguished guests One of the main themes Fdents. Almost the whole of the NATO Summit, in- discussed during the NATO >> page 5 educational charac- city centre was shut down cluding U.S. Secretary of summit and conference was ter, in our view, do because of various political Defence Robert Gates. a call for a brand new “stra- events that required special tegic concept” for the Alli- Feature not raise any stan- security measures. NATO’s Towards a new strategy ance. Ten years have passed Warsaw: Poland's capital dards and are inter- informal summit was only since NATO endorsed its one of various meetings Clearly the most im- current security doctrine, mapped out esting only for the that were held that day. Kra- portant rationale behind which obviously could not >> page 8-9 city itself, not for the kow’s think tank, the Insti- NATO’s meeting in Kra- have included the threats tute of Strategic Studies, in kow was to set the stage for and developments of the whole country. Cities cooperation with NATO’s the 60th anniversary sum- present day such as the Sep- Interview have to show offers Public Diplomacy Division mit that will be held by the tember 11th attacks, the hosted a two-day confer- Alliance in April. But the wars in Afghanistan and President of the Federation of exceeding the bor- ence on Euro-Atlantic se- policy-makers that gath- Iraq or the energy security Poles in Great Britain curity titled, “NATO before ered in Krakow also raised crisis. Therefore, it was no ders of the region” >> page 11 the Jubilee Summit – Does issues of vital importance surprise that high-ranking the Alliance Need a New for the future shape and role officials referred to “the fu- Strategic Concept?” In the of NATO. They included a ture of NATO” with man- The European Parliament and the afternoon, various anti- need for a new NATO doc- tra-like repetition. NATO Council decided that in 2016 one Polish globalisation groups and trine, NATO’s mission in Secretary General Jaap de and one Spanish city will carry the title anarchists gathered on the Afghanistan, tightening the Hoop Scheffer stressed that of European Capital of Culture. The list Market Square to hold their cooperation between the “NATO cannot rest on its of applicants will be published by the “anti-summit” and express United States and its Euro- laurels” and that it should end of 2009 and then the competition disapproval against NATO’s pean allies, responding to “try to find the answers to will begin. Finally, the end of 2011 will military policy. Moreover, terrorism, climate change the new challenges.” Prime mark the nomination of the victorious earlier that day over 1,500 and the energy crisis. For Minister Donald Tusk also city, based on the EU Council of Minis- policemen protested against the Poles, the summit repre- evoked the importance of ters’ decision. The conference in Krakow the government’s plans con- sented a good opportunity NATO’s reform in his wel- was intentionally organised seven years cerning the cuts in early re- not only to show their com- coming remarks, saying before the event as the Polish Minister tirement privileges. In the mitment to the Alliance but that “it should be a of Culture and National Her- evening, Polish Prime Min- also to reflect on Poland’s reform that would itage, Bogdan Zdrojewski, >> 2 >> 3 2 Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com“ News Krakow

The English have a lot to thank the Polish for; Poland was England’s most loyal ally. They fought gallantly and Letters bravely in every theatre of WW2. To the editor

Hello Readers, Dear Wojtek, “ Regards, circumstances, was not surprising. They studied hard to make up for their missed You may notice some changes in this Regarding your Boruc article [Febru- Robert S. education and both held respectable month's Krakow Post. Nothing drastic, ary 2009]: London, UK professional posts, as did many Poles. but we’ve made little improvements that "...and his ability to be a match-win- They were grateful for the opportunity we hope will make reading the Post an ner not only gave him cult status among **** they had in Britain but in the 50 years easier and richer experience. CityLife is supporters, but also earned him the tag they lived here Britain changed and they now a fully fledged culture and lifestyle of the 'Holy Goalie' in Scotland...." Dear Editor, chose to spend their remaining years in magazine, with 16 pages of the region’s Not to be pedantic Wojtek, but his Poland. Both suffered the trauma of in- most interesting cultural happenings "Holy Goalie" moniker has nothing to Regrettably I am not in possession of carcerations in Siberia or torture at the and personalities. The news section re- do with his skills at consistently bailing- December or January’s issue of Krakow hands of Gestapo and Soviets; the war mains focused on bringing deeper analy- out Celtic, but to do with his sectarian Post but having read Halina Kozlowska’s and their experiences were never really ses along with the most interesting news behaviour towards Glasgow Rangers response, which I found unsurprisingly discussed. from Krakow and Poland. Our popular fans. In other words, because he per- true, I can have an educated guess at The English have a lot to thank the interviews with important newsmakers, forms the sign of the cross in front of what was written. Polish for; Poland was England’s most opinion pages and business and proper- Rangers fans during their numerous As a seasoned traveller to Poland and loyal ally. They fought gallantly and ty sections remain in the main section. games in the season, he has them lit- regular reader of your newspaper, which bravely in every theatre of WW2. Dur- Behind the scenes we’re working to im- erally foaming at the mouth - thus de- incidentally I enjoy, I felt I should put ing the Battle of Britain it was recog- prove our website as well. lighting thousands of Celtic supporters, finger to keyboard and add some valid nised that their contributions probably We value input from our readers. In who have even written a song (which comment. swayed the balance in Britain’s favour the coming months please email us they sing at games) as a way of thanking Although born in England my parents scoring the highest number of kills (a your comments about the newspaper him for antagonising their most bitter and all my relations are Polish, so per- little pointer in the right direction Ko- and your suggestions for improvements of rivals... :) haps my views may be a little more unbi- sciuszko Squadron 303 read For your online. If you have specific suggestions, In response to this (in my opinion) ased. It would seem Tony R. is ignorant Freedom and Ours by Lynne Olson, or frustrations, please email us and we’ll fantastically entertaining song, Rang- of history and a bigot possibly along the Stanley Cloud). The battle for Monte consider every (viable) option. ers supporters have invented their own. lines of Antony Worrall-Thompson who Cassino was finally secured by the And as always, if you have any com- Hardly original, but here are the lyrics berated Poles in the media in 2007. A Poles, although in fairness the British, ments about the articles themselves, we anyway: much respected broadsheet published a New Zealanders, Indians and other al- wholeheartedly encourage your letters You put your left arm up, half page response from two hard work- lies were involved in early battles to take and will print as many as we can fit each You put your right arm down, ing, multi-lingual and highly educated the strategically important hill. The list month. You drop the ball and you look like a Poles. goes on and on... So please, keep on reading and using clown, When my parents arrived in the UK I wonder if Tony R. has ever taken our advertisers. We wouldn’t be here You do the holy goalie and you turn after Poland had been betrayed at Yalta the opportunity to visit Poland, embroil without them. Thanks for your support. around, (suggest Tony R. sticks his head in a himself in its rich history and culture. We look forward to hearing from The Tims are 4 - 1 down... decent history book) they were looked I fear not or maybe I am glad in some you. Oh the holy goalie, down upon and generally shunned as odd way. Oh the holy goalie, all Poles were. This was partially due to Anna Spysz Oh the holy goalie, some 4 million English and Common- Jan Hr. Jordan Editor-in-Chief Boruc you are f--ing shite shite... wealth forces having been demobbed Maidstone [email protected] and with little or no work, under the Kent

<< Culture from page 1 applying for the title, the minister wants 2000, will not be a rival this time. While selecting a city that might rep- the aspiring cities to prepare a complete The conference’s aim was to invite resent Poland in the best way, the focal pointed out that the cities entering the offer in terms of cultural undertakings members of the European Commis- point of the Ministry plan is that the competition will have enough time to addressed to every possible audience, sion and international experts, and on investments proposed by the city must prepare their event schedule and under- dividing the whole into branches. “The the basis of their experience, provoke a be allotted for cultural purposes in the take the necessary investments. events schedule must be addressed to fruitful debate, organise workshops and purest sense, and not for entertain- “Theoretically, a similar conference those who adore the contemporary arts, give the applicants a chance for a broad- ment. “Cultural development projects could be held in 2009, 2010 or even to those who spend time in museums, er exchange of know-how and expertise. based only on entertainment, without later, but I want to stress that it is im- as well as to those who are keen opera As a result, the International Cultural any educational character, in our view, portant for me that the decision is made or philharmonic enthusiasts,” added the Centre, situated on the Market Square do not raise any standards and are in- as early as possible, taking into account minister. Therefore, a selection panel of in Krakow, served as a meeting point teresting only for the city itself, not for the present regulatory framework,” said 13 international experts will be appoint- for all representatives of the applicant the whole country. Cities have to show Minister Zdrojewski. The nomination ed to assess impartially the candidates’ cities, whose rivalry finally had an op- offers exceeding the borders of the re- of 2016's Capital of Culture should be programmes. One of the experts will be portunity to come into play. Cities such gion,” stressed Minister Zdrojewski. on the one hand regarded as a prize for Professor Jacek Purchla, the Director as Warsaw, Gdańsk, Łódź, Wrocław, All presented projects will be put to the the awarded city, but on the other hand of the International Cultural Centre in Gorzów Wielkopolski, Gniezno, Kato- test and checked against many criteria. it should equal a serious and long-term Krakow, indicating that Krakow, which wice, and Lublin will all apply for the Above all, the Ministry is concerned investment in the sphere of culture. By was a European Capital of Culture in title of the European Capital of Culture. whether the idea will be feasible. letters to the editor about krakow POST Krakow Post is a monthly Anna Spysz, Editor-in-Chief For advertising inquiries, TheKrakow Post welcomes letters to the editor. Letters for publication should be signed and bear the publication published by [email protected] please contact: Lifeboat Ltd. signatory’s e-mail address and city of residence. The Krakow Post reserves the right to edit letters. ISSN: 1898-4762 Nick Hodge, Culture Editor Michał McSperrin-Kossak, Please send letters to the editor at [email protected], or by post to: www.krakowpost.com [email protected] Group Sales Manager [email protected] Krakow Post Mark Bradshaw, Publisher Dana Dramowicz, City Life Editor +48 (12) 421 4865 Ul. Szczepańska 7/4a [email protected] [email protected] Printers, www.polskapresse.pl 31-011 Krakow Stuart Wilson, Design [email protected] www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MONTH 2009 3 News Krakow

<< NATO from page 1 Commercial & Residential allow NATO to respond to new threats Cleaning Services and challenges in an effective way.” MM GRUPA Afghan trap? Cleaning Service +48 (12) 655.04.35 +48 (0) 781.150.575 NATO is at a crossroads. It will cel- www.mmgrupa.pl [email protected] ebrate its 60th anniversary summit next month in Germany and France. And of course, there are plenty of rea- Do you need U.S. legal assistance? sons to cheer, as NATO is believed to exemplify the most successful military Licensed American lawyer in Krakow and defence alliance in modern history. Contracts, letters to creditors, However, there are some hard questions negotiations, etc. that NATO needs to address. The Alli- Reasonable rates ance is undertaking a visible transfor- Anti-NATO protesters took to the streets / photo Mateusz Majewski mation, with the change in the position tel: +48 (0) 785-565-823 of Secretary General later this year, the contributions from European countries. It would be beneficial for the future of email: [email protected] enlargement of the organisation (up to Security is not free, and therefore, Eu- the Euro-Atlantic alliance if NATO is 28 members) and the welcoming back ropean members of NATO should really able to contribute more resources in this of French military forces into NATO take their responsibilities seriously, runs conflict. As Secretary Gates said before structures. But the most crucial ques- the argument. On the other side of the arriving to the summit, “the administration concerns the so-called “out-of-area” pond, critics blame the United States for tion is prepared (…) to make additional operations conducted by NATO and the using NATO as a political and military commitments to Afghanistan. But there greatest challenge in this realm of activ- tool of its diplomacy, disregarding its clearly are expectations that the allies ity: Afghanistan. European allies. According to this view, must do more as well.” This wish seems If there is one problem that may en- Americans tend to overestimate “hard to be shared by the outgoing NATO Sec- danger the future of the Alliance, it security” issues (like military pre-emi- retary General. During his remarks at is its mission in Afghanistan. NATO nence) and sometimes forget about “soft Krakow’s National Museum, Mr. Schef- partners were obliged to consider this security” (i.e. peacekeeping missions, fer pointed out that in his opinion, “the fact as the war in Afghanistan was dis- development and public diplomacy). values NATO has always defended since cussed at length both at the summit and Those differences in transatlantic rela- its start in 1949 [are] those same values during the conference. According to a tions have been the subject of debates we are defending at the Hindu Kush.” common belief among many security for many years, but they returned with a He referred to Poland as “a staunch ally,” experts, if NATO fails in Afghanistan, vengeance during the Euro-Atlantic dis- and noted that the Polish Armed Forces it might mark the end of the Alliance. pute over Iraq, and right now they seem are “upholding the values of alliance” in Sceptics on both sides of the Atlantic to be taking their toll, especially as the Afghanistan. The question that remains have already heralded the demise of situation in Afghanistan worsens. unanswered is whether NATO allies will NATO. In the United States, the ques- The administration of President Barack be eager to make more sacrifices in the tions that have repeatedly been raised Obama has recently been working on a name of common values in spite of the demand larger military and financial new strategy for the war in Afghanistan. political costs of the Afghan conflict. 4 Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow Policing the Police KRAKOW IN BRIEF Killing In Kazimierz Police out in force to protest retirement policies At 11 am on Friday 20th February, the body of a pawnbroker was discovered behind the counter of his shop on ul. Anna Spysz Berka Joselewicza. He had died from gunshot wounds. A client made the grisly discovery and immediately contacted n February 19th, the same the police. The murder has shocked day that defence ministers locals, who remembered the victim as were gathering for NATO a kindly man who rode to work each meetings less than a kilome- morning on his bicycle. Nobody heard tre away on the banks of the Wisła, Kra- O any gunfire. The victim was 35, and had kow’s Market Square witnessed a dif- recently married. The police are look- ferent kind of gathering - one that may ing for two men in connection with the not have been greater in scale, but was killings, and they have released artists' undoubtedly greater in decibels. renderings of the suspects. One of the Whistles, gunshots, and timeworn air men is about 30 years old, with blonde raid sirens wailed as hundreds of police- hair, and about 6 foot tall, the other is men and other uniformed officers from fractionally taller. The police are offer- throughout the country assembled ing a reward of 10,000 złoty for anyone in protest. Even the military police, a who can shed light on the crime. More branch once feared by most of the coun- information can be found on the official try in darker times, gathered alongside website of the constabulary at www. to show their solidarity - quite literally malopolska.policja.gov.pl in some cases, as several groups flour- ished flags bearing the trade union's Krakow Ads on CNN (Finally) iconic logo. Policemen showing their solidarity / photo Anna Spysz As the Post reported in October 2008, But the timing of the event was not a Krakow was not featured in the first coincidence. “We knew there would be Matejki Square. When speaking to Zenon Włodarczak, series of advertisements on American many politically-conscious people in An estimated 2,000 officers took part a former officer and spokesman also news network CNN International with Krakow today [because of the NATO in the demonstration. The proposed known as the “Subiekt” or “Salesman” other Polish cities. But for four weeks conference], so we used this to our ad- changes would affect all branches of the of the police, the overwhelming theme beginning on the 23rd of February, a vantage,” a protesting officer from the uniformed services, so it was no wonder I heard was that of a lack of communi- 30-second advert has been singing the Greater Poland Voivodship police told that besides policemen, one could spot cation between law enforcement, law praises of the city to an estimated 150 the Post. Next to him, a young officer border guards, firemen, prison guards, makers, and the public. “We want to be million viewers in Europe, Africa, and disguised in a white Santa Claus beard military police and the ubiquitous city heard, to be counted. We are the voices the Middle East. The video advertise- hunched over, leaning on a comical guards, some of whom were also serv- of all the uniformed services - we are all ment, dubbed “Krakow. the Great,” cane like a retiree, and hissed, "People, ing on the other side, ensuring that the the same, and we are all serving the pub- will light up prime time viewers’ I will protect you!" protest did not get out of hand. lic, so we want the public to hear us.” screens a total of 139 times in this pe- In fact, most of the protest centred on Protesting officers carried banners But there are deeper grievances. “We riod, showing the world Wawel Castle, retirement benefits. The primary mo- bearing quotations by Donald Tusk and want an end to the media manipula- St. Mary’s Basilica, prominent events tivation behind the rally was the Min- Adam Rapacki, respectively, stating: “...a tion which constantly sets the police in such as the Jewish Culture Festival and istry of Interior and Administration’s well-paid police force will care for our opposition to the public,” Włodarczak performances in the Philharmonic, and proposed changes in the law regulating safety" and "...you cannot change the continued. “We are not against reforms of course the cliché shots of children the retirement of Poland’s uniformed rules in the middle of the game." Per- in general, we just do not want pseudo- frolicking amidst the pigeons on the servicemen. Under the current law, of- haps the most creative sign resembled reforms made by incompetents who Market Square. City Council members ficers may retire at age 55 after serving a sale advert one might find at Tesco, are only looking [at policy] through an are hoping that the estimated $200,000 at least 15 years and still retain 40 per- reading, “SALE!!! 25 years of service, 55 economic prism. We want reform that is spent on the campaign, along with the cent of their pay; the new law proposes years of life, FREE funeral in the pack- constructive and based on social needs, falling value of the złoty, will boost the to up the amount of service required to a g e .” not political advantages.” city’s tourism numbers, which took a hit 20 or even 25 years for all those who Another protest took place simulta- Perhaps at least those witness to this in 2008 mainly due to the high złoty and joined the services on or after January neously in Gdańsk, where over 3,000 protest will be convinced of the good the global financial crisis. Grażyna Leja, 1st 1999. officers took to the streets. However, natures of these men, as they exchanged with the president of Krakow’s tourism The protest, which began in the Mar- Vice Prime Minister Grzegorz Sche- pleasantries with passers-by and joked division, told Gazeta Wyborcza, “This ket Square, culminated in a march to tyna was dismissive of the value of the as they photographed their colleagues. year, our ally might just be the positive the Małopolska Voivodship Office. demonstrations, telling the PAP press But ultimately those in government will value of the euro against the złoty for There, the office was presented with agency that “the protest against imple- decide their fates. And bearing in mind tourists.” a petition addressed to Prime Minis- menting retirement reforms stems from Prime Minister Tusk’s above-mentioned ter Donald Tusk. Finally, the officers ignorance.” He stressed that those hired statement, it is important to remember paid their respects and laid flowers at before 1999 would still benefit from the that this decision will affect us all. the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier on old system. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MARCH 2009 5 News Poland Pole Slain By Taliban Krakow engineer beheaded in Pakistan

Anna Jarosz it proved to be a litmus test for Polish ligence communities, who are far better beheaded in 2002. Until recently the responsibility and effectiveness. Shortly informed about the Afghan-Pakistani n 6th February, four months kidnappings were ransom-driven and after the kidnapping the Foreign Min- border situation. For the former, the re- after his capture, Piotr only local captives were murdered when istry admitted it was one of the greatest gion has become one of its priorities, as Stańczak, a Polish engineer, suspected of collaborating with the U.S. challenges they had been faced with. As it is here that potential terrorists threat- was beheaded by his Tali- The number of abductions is increasing many of the details received were not ening Great Britain are trained. The lat- ban kidnappers. The geologist worked and the Taliban’s strategies change as O reliable, but gossip spread by the local ter certified that the most experienced many militants return to the cradle of with a Krakow-based geophysics insti- militant leaders, the Polish side focused negotiators were sent and American tute, Geofizyka Krakow, surveying oil al-Qaeda from Iraq, where taking for- its efforts on pressing the Pakistani gov- embassies in Kabul and Islamabad were and gas fields in Pakistan. The institute eigners hostage and killing them was an ernment. Being aware that the region engaged in the case. was carrying out surveillance work on everyday reality of war. is not under the government's control, Contacting both the local religious behalf of the Oil & Gas Development The murder of the Polish engineer authorities and British and American Company Limited, a Pakistani oil cor- not only reminded Poland about the intelligence were key measures to be poration. After the abduction, Geofizy- consequences and responsibilities of "The murder of the taken by the Polish government; how- ka Krakow announced on its website alliances made, but also attracted atten- ever, other aspects dramatically shaped that work was suspended. The engineer Polish engineer not tion to the global threat that the situa- the situation. The Pakistani govern- was taken hostage close to the Afghan tion in Pakistan is posing. The country, only reminded Poland ment, following a principle learnt from border on 28th September; the mili- unable to control its militants, is also a the past, does not agree to terrorists' tants pulled Stańczak from his car after about the consequenc- nuclear state, and its weapons could po- demands to release prisoners. Although killing three Pakistanis travelling with tentially be used against India as well as es and responsibili- the militants reduced the demanded him near the city of Attock in north- get into the Taliban’s hands. This being number of captives to be released to west Pakistan. During the four months ties of alliances made, the case, experts say that the U.S., to- just two, this fundamental requirement the victim was moved from one hiding gether with their allies, should put all of but also attracted at- was not met. Secondly, over the last few place to another over the lawless region their efforts into weakening individual weeks the kidnappers were subjected to overrun by the Taliban. After futile ne- tention to the global militant groups and setting their leaders a severe offensive, and the captive might gotiations the militants released to lo- against one another as well as encourag- threat that the situa- have become a burden to the terrorists. cal and foreign media organisations a ing the militants into various Pakistani What is more, as a Pakistan daily report- seven-minute video of Stańczak appar- tion in Pakistan is pos- forces. It would, however, require col- ed, the terrorists were divided over the ently being beheaded. As diplomatic laboration with Pakistani intelligence, ing." prisoners they wanted to be released for and consular services have not received which is in close contact with the Tali- the captive. One of the Taliban groups the body the final confirmation is still ban and is said to constitute a state of even planned to take the Pole by force, expected. A man on the film says the their own within Pakistan. Taking this a Polish negotiator managed to contact which put his execution forward. Pole was killed because the Pakistani into account the solution proposed by the founder of the Muttahida Majlis-e- The death was the first killing of government refused to exchange him the American president to send more Ama Taliban movement, Sami ul-Haq, a Western hostage in Pakistan since for Taliban prisoners. troops to Afghanistan leaves little hope who played a key role in recovering Ko- American journalist Daniel Pearl was According to the kidnappers, the for the situation to improve. reans kidnapped in Afghanistan. After principal reason behind the abduction the meeting with the Polish negotiator was to recover fellow militants who had in January, ul-Haq spoke with Pakistan’s been arrested last summer by the Paki- foreign and internal affairs officials, ap- stani army. The army had attacked the pealed to the militants in local media, Taliban when they took over a tunnel and asked his people to put pressure on and blocked the road that the army used the kidnappers to release the engineer. to transport backups to Waziri. After a The militants did not give in. Another three-day fight, the Taliban lost nearly point of contact for Polish negotiators 100 people while 200 were taken pris- was Szah Abdul Aziz, a former member oner. In September the militants moved of parliament politically affiliated with to the eastern bank of the Indus River to JUI (Assembly of Islamic Clergy). Aziz hunt for captives for which they could estimated the chances for the captive’s ransom their fellow militants from pris- release to be as high as 60 percent. Both on. The Polish engineer fell into their Raszid and Aziz stated that the Polish hands in a village called Pind Sultani. side proved knowledgeable about the Stańczak is the first Polish victim to realities and contacted adequate sourc- be killed by the Taliban; the last kid- es. However, the rebellious militants did napped hostage was released alive. Be- not follow their religious leaders. ing a NATO member state and having Whilst in talks with the Islamists, sent Polish troops to Afghanistan, such the Polish government also turned for an incident was bound to happen and help to the British and American intel-

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- Exotic touch of Bali - “Honeymoon” - Sekar Jagat Essence - Royal “Lulur” - Biokos alovera facial treatment - Biokos seaweed facial treatment Dharmata Massage Centre ul. Garbarska 5, Kraków telephone: 012/423 00 58 mobile: +48/669 689 886 email: [email protected] 6 Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com News Poland POLAND IN BRIEF Missile Shield Muddle Investigation Closes On "Assassination" Signed agreement up in the air at NATO summit An official investigation into whether Po- land's wartime leader was assassinated has ended. Forensic tests revealed that Robert Szmigielski there was no evidence to suggest that General Władysław Sikorski had been murdered before boarding his fateful resh doubts surfaced over the flight from Gibraltar to London on July future of Poland's long-awaited 4th, 1943. Conspiracy theories have missile shield following the raged ever since the general's death, NATO meeting in Krakow late last month, as U.S. Defence Secretary which came at a crucial juncture in WWII, F shortly after Stalin broke off relations Robert Gates underlined President with the Polish government-in-exile. The Obama's pledge to re-evaluate diplo- state affiliated IPN (Institute For National matic ties with the Kremlin – despite Remembrance) classed the recent tests Russia's absence from the two-day con- as an investigation into a "Soviet crime." ference. However, over the years, many have been The original proposal for the shield implicated in the alleged murder, includ- – signed in August 2008 by former U.S. ing British and Polish figures. Although Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice and many Poles accepted the recent findings, Foreign Minister Radosław Sikorski – some conspiracy theorists remain puz- confirmed the deployment of 10 inter- zled as to why the plane crashed in the ceptor missiles in Poland, and included first place. assurances from the Bush administration for “substantial assistance to sup- Priests Unhappy With Celibacy port Poland's military modernisation A survey by a prominent academic has efforts.” revealed that 53 percent of Polish priests However, following Barack Obama's would like to marry, whilst 12 percent election victory, his initial refusal to commit to the project, and Russia's re- confess to being in a relationship. Over Defence Minister Bogdan Klich at the NATO conference / photo Mateusz Majewski 30 percent admit that they have already versal of plans to deploy Iskander mis- had sexual relations with a member of siles in Kaliningrad to counter the mis- the opposite sex. The survey was carried sile shield, some critics believe Obama out by Professor Józef Baniak, a special- may consider scrapping the proposals consultation with our NATO allies and hoping that Moscow's influence over ist in religious matters. He interviewed altogether in order to secure a new arms Russia.” the missile shield will be minimal and some 823 men of the cloth, asking a control deal with Moscow, as well as to Under-Secretary of State William that the United States will not abandon wide range of questions about the role save money. Burns continued with Biden's rhetoric, one of its staunchest allies. Neverthe- of priests in today's Poland. The Polish U.S.-Russian ties have deteriorated as telling news agency Interfax: “[Wash- less, Gates said the economic crisis and Church has been going through an awk- a result of the plans for the shield, with ington is] open to the possibility of co- the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq have ward transition phase in recent years. It Moscow seeing it as a threat to their na- operation, both with Russia and NATO taken precedence – leaving Warsaw is widely accepted that esteem for the tional security, but President Obama's partners, in relation to a new configu- with no option other than to keep on Church reached its zenith following the new administration has said it wants ration for missile defence which would reminding Washington of their close election of Pope John Paul II. During the to “reset” the relationship with Presi- use the resources that each of us have.” relationship, and the signed agreement. Solidarity struggle, many priests strove to dent Medvedev's government and start Russian Foreign Minister Sergei La- “Between the economic crisis, Af- act as shepherds of the nation. In those anew. vrov welcomed the comments, stating: ghanistan and Iraq the administration days, taking holy orders was a prestigious Warsaw raised concerns prior to the “It's not too late. We could sit down at has not yet reviewed where it is on a step, and considered a mark of social ad- NATO summit at a security conference the negotiating table and evaluate the whole range of issues including relation- vancement. However, since the collapse held in Munich, which was attended situation." ships with our allies, the missile defence of communism, the Church has lost some by American Vice President Joe Biden, Despite the United States' non-com- programme [and] the relationship with of its authority, and the numbers of men with Prime Minister Donald Tusk tell- mittal stance towards the shield, Gates the Russians,” said Gates. joining seminaries has dropped. Mean- ing reporters, “I will definitely tell Vice signed an agreement with Poland dur- Following the talks with Gates, Klich while, consumer culture continues to President Biden we are ready to par- ing the NATO conference, confirming told TVN24, "We have to wait as the grow. In December, a priest set up a con- ticipate in this [missile shield] project, a a new military cooperation that for- American administration works out its fessional outside a Krakow shopping mall U.S. project. When we agree something malised the relationship between both view on the future of the missile defence with the banner "Another world exists..." with our ally, we keep our promise.” countries' special forces. project. Biden responded by saying, “We will “As an old Cold Warrior it is a true “What's left for us to do: to underline Rokita Rocketing Mad continue to develop missile defences honour to be able to sign this document and remind people that Poland accept- After Handcuffing to counter a growing Iranian capabil- on behalf of the United States,” he told ed the American proposal, that last year Jan Rokita, the man once tipped for the ity, provided the technology is proven Polish Defence Minister Bogdan Klich. a deal was signed... and that the agree- job of Prime Minister, was bundled off a and it is cost-effective,” but reiterated However, following Russia's war with ment binds both sides.” Lufthansa plane on February 11th after that the work would only continue “in Georgia last summer, Poland will be clashing with flight staff. According to Mr. Rokita and his wife Nelly, herself a current MP, the problem started when the couple tried to store their hats and coats in Business Class. As the Rokitas' tickets were Economy, the stewardesses were unforthcoming. Tempers frayed, and Mr. Rokita was dragged off the plane in handcuffs. It took the intervention of the Polish Consul in Berlin to convince German police that the Rokitas were in fact VIPs. Unfortunately for Mr. Rokita, the tussle was recorded, and his cry of "Save me, the Germans are beating me!" has since become a runaway ringtone hit, even finding its way into DJ boxes, with special house mixes rocking the dancefloor. The Rokitas will not be fly- ing Lufthansa again; indeed, they have threatened to sue the airline. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MARCH 2009 7 News Poland Three Suicides, No Answers Notorious case sparks public outrage

Ewa Spohn

he third suicide in January kidnappers were police informers. among the ringleaders of Po- The father and sister of the murdered land's most notorious case of kidnap victim, Włodzimierz Olewnik abduction and murder has and Danuta Olewnik-Cieplińska, are shockedT Poland and led to the resigna- first in line to subscribe to the idea of a tion of the Minister of Justice. Guards at cover-up. They do not believe that these the Płock prison found the body of Rob- were suicides, but a systematic elimina- ert Pazik in his cell, by the unmonitored tion of the last remaining witnesses to wash area, shortly after 5am on the 19th the truth. "There's someone behind all of January. A bed sheet was tied around this who is dealing the cards," Olewnik- his neck. Cieplińska told TVN. She and her fa- This was the grisly finale to a saga ther do not buy into the idea that the that began back in October 2001 when murderers had a sudden attack of con- Pazik, along with his accomplices, kid- science: "Three bandits with no scruples, napped Krzysztof Olewnik, the son of take their own lives?" said Olewnik, "I Włodzimierz Olewnik, a wealthy meat don't believe it". Adding further fuel to processor from a small town near Płock. the flames of the conspiracy theorists The kidnappers was the revelation continued to hold in early February Olewnik hostage that 230 pieces for two years, all "Many Poles be- of evidence had the time maintain- been destroyed by ing contact with lieve that the ap- a "sewage leak" in his family. In July a police station in 2003, they de- parent inability Olsztyn. manded and were The news of paid a ransom of of the authori- Pazik's death was €300,000 for his followed within release, but even ties to prevent days by the an- after collecting nouncement that the money, they these suicides Prime Minister refused to let him Donald Tusk had go. Olewnik's de- suggests that accepted the res- composed body ignation of Zbig- was found in a there is more to niew Ćwiąkalski, forest in 2006 and the Minister of an investigation this story than Justice. At a press later revealed that conference in the kidnappers simply official Warsaw Tusk said tortured and mur- that while he high- dered him within a incompetence." ly valued the work month of receiving of Ćwiąkalski, the ransom. he stressed that The kidnappers “above all, I cannot were eventually accept omissions, caught, brought to trial and the three sloppiness and the weakness of the ser- ringleaders sentenced to life imprison- vices responsible for this suicide." He ment in March 2008. As the trial pro- added that the ultimate responsibility gressed, a catalogue of errors emerged must be borne by the highest respon- in the police handling of the case and sible authority, in this case, the Minis- suspicions grew that the police had ter of Justice. The chief warden of the colluded with the kidnappers to allow Płock prison has also been relieved of them to escape with the money. Public his post. confidence in the police and the justice The dismissal of Ćwiąkalski high- system plummeted and even though a lights how the political role of the Min- subsequent inquiry found three police ister of Justice needs to be strengthened. officers guilty of negligence and brought Without this, the necessary but expen- charges of misconduct against a public sive and potentially unpopular reforms prosecutor, the damage was done. to the justice system have no chance of Robert Pazik was one of three seeing the light of day. The most impor- sentenced to life imprisonment for tant tasks facing his successor are the Olewnik’s abduction and murder and need to separate the government from until Monday the 19th of January, he the office of the Public Prosecutor and was the last one still alive; the others countering the laziness and poor qual- had committed suicide while in custody. ity of the work the office carries out - Many Poles believe that the apparent in- the very issues that ultimately caused ability of the authorities to prevent these Ćwiąkalski's downfall. suicides suggests that there is more to Tusk also ordered a Commission of this story than simply official incompe- Inquiry to be convened into the abduc- tence. Pazik’s death makes it even more tion and death of Krzysztof Olewnik, unlikely that the truth will come to light saying "the case calls for explanation, as he never spoke about the events that not only in terms of the legal ramifica- led to Olewnik’s murder, revealed what tions, but the public should also have happened to the ransom money or com- access to knowledge. There should be mented on suspicions that some of the no shadow hanging over the matter." 8 Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com Travel Destination: Warsaw

hile living in Poland’s so-called “culture capital” Wcan leave one biased against the cultural offerings of other Polish cities, this month the Krakow Post shows that Poland’s actual capital, Warsaw, has plenty to offer, both in the sphere of culture as well as in nightlife and dining.

In the spring of 1928, the Aus- is the country's leading university, trian writer Stefan Zweig made a and its offshoots, such as the School journey through Poland: "In War- of Economics, are leaders in their saw there was nothing to indicate fields. The lively student population that twice, three and four times vic- numbers some 150,000 alone. torious and vanquished armies had On the other hand, Warsaw is an marched through the city. The cafes immensely moving place to connect shone with elegant women. The trim with the past. Its rebuilt city centre and slender officers promenading is at its most compelling in the Old through the streets seemed more Town with its proud Royal Castle. In like practised actors impersonat- addition, the former Jewish ghetto is ing soldiers than like fighters. Eve- a stark reminder of the unforgiving rywhere one sensed activity, confi- hand of history. dence and a justifiable pride in the Further out there is a sprinkling new Republic of Poland which had of jewels to savour. These have fared risen so vigourously from the ashes much better than the landmarks in of the centuries." the city centre. The Łazienki park Barely a decade after Zweig's area, with its palaces and gardens, is journey, Poland was plunged into a favourite with Poles and foreigners further conflict. This time the dam- alike, as is Wilanów, often called Po- age was complete. Hardly a building land's Versailles. was left standing and the human toll Warsaw can be a frustrating city. was unprecedented. The ensuing So- But it is not without its rewards. viet regime left a mixed legacy, with Missing the capital means bypassing a painstakingly reconstructed Old a city that is key to an understand- Town, New Town and Royal Way, ing not only of Poland but of Europe and a sprawling mish-mash of mod- itself. Whilst many love to hate it, ern blocks. Thus what should one there are plenty who love Warsaw expect today from a visit to Warsaw for what it is. Today, having shaken - a destination that is often overshad- off the cold war slumbers, Zweig's owed by the more obvious charms of words are beginning to hold true cities like Krakow or Gdańsk? once more. Warsaw again buzzes On one hand Warsaw can be ex- with activity - it has risen from the perienced as a rapidly developing ashes. modern city - a fizzing capital, centred around Marshal Street and Soli- Getting there: With Polish Rail- Warsaw in pictures (top to bottom): darity Avenue, where Poles come ways’ quick Intercity connection, from far and wide to make their for- getting to Warsaw from Krakow is a Plac Zamkowy, Warsaw's Old Town tune. Warsaw is the business capital breeze, and can make for a perfect The Royal Castle at sunset and where trends are set. It is also weekend trip. The journey takes two the academic centre of the country, hours and 55 minutes, and trains go Walking the streets of Warsaw's Old Town and despite the venerable image of just about every hour daily between 7 Łazienki park the Jagiellonian University, Warsaw's am and 8 pm. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MARCH 2009 9 Travel

ZAKROCZYŃSKA

FONDAMIŃSKIEGO WÓJTOWSKA CHURCH MARKOWSKA OF THE WYBRZEŻE GDAŃSKIE TARGOWA STAWKI VISITATION ZĄBKOWSKA TOURIST INFORMATION MONUMENT TO New RYBAKI PARK FALLEN & MURDERED KOŚCIELNA FLORIAŃSKA BRZESKA MONUMENT IN THE EAST Town STARA PRASKI (Nowe Miasto) KOZIA Market SIERAKOWSKIEGO WARSZAWA MUSEUMS & PALACES BONIFRATERSKA Square CIASNA WSCHODNIA DUBOIS M. SKŁODOWSKA-CURIE AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI JAGIELLOŃSKA NOWINIARSKA MUSEUMBRZOZOWA Praga CHURCH FRANCISZKAŃSKA FRETA PANIEŃSKA KŁOPOTOWKSIEGO SYNAGOGUE BUGAJ WRZESIŃSKA

MOSTOWA OKRZEI WAŁOWA KIJOWSKA POST OFFICE GEN. WŁ. ANDERSA CIASNA ASIAN STAWKI MONUMENT TO ŚWIĘTOJERSKAGALLERY Old KROWIA THEATRE GHETTO HEROES WARSAW MarketTown DŁUGA Square(Stare Miasto) MACKIEWICZA METRO ŚWIĘTOJERSKA UPRISING FIELD MONUMENT CATHEDRAL PIWNA OF POLISH ARMY ROYAL WYBRZEŻE SZCZECIŃSKIE LUBELSKA ŚLĄSKO-DĄBROWSKI BRIDGE MIODOWA PODWALE ZAMOYSKIEGO MIŃSKA ANIELEWICZA KRASIŃSKI KRASIŃSKI PL. CASTLE GROCHOWSKA MIŁA Muranów PALACE ZAMKOWY PAWIA GARDENS ZYGMUNT’S COLUMN SMOCZA JAIL MUSEUM DZIELNA BOHATERÓW GETTA PASZYNA “PAWIAK” WARSZAW NOWOLIPKI DŁUGA ST.ANNA’S STADION KARMELICKA ARCHAEOLOGY CHURCH MUSEUM ADAM (ARSENAŁ) AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI MICKIEWICZ MARIENSZTAT RIVER VISTULA AL. ZIELENIECKA KOZIAMONUMENT KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIEŚCIE BEDNARSKA JABŁONOWSKI SENATORSKA PALACE MariensztatFURMARSKA SOKOLNA WARSZAWSKA PL. MOLIERA PAWIA RATUSZ BIELAŃSKA (WISŁA) OPERA KAMERALNA TEATRALNYY CHURCH DZIELNA KAROWADOBRA NOWOLIPIE PL. JEWISH OF THE WARSAW INSTITUTE NATIONAL UNIVERSITY BANKOWY TRĘBACKA ASSUMPTION NOWOLIPKI MUSEUM WIERZBOWAOPERA LIBRARY 10th ANNIVERSARY NIECAŁA PRESIDENTIAL JAN PAWEŁ II SENATORSKA PALACE STADIUM AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI OSSOLIŃSKICH GĘSTA WYBRZERZE KOŚCIUSZKOWSKIE MUSEUM NIECAŁA FREDRY NOWOLIPIE WIŚLNA TOMB OF (DZIESIĘCIOLECIA) UNKNOWN KAZIMIERZOWSKI BOWARNA LIPOWA SASKI SOLDIER PALACE PL PIŁSUDSKIEGO ELEKTORIALNA GARDENS RADNA DOBRA ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKI BRIDGE PL. ŻELAZNEJ BRAMY WARSAW LESZCZYŃSKA CZAPSKI AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI MARSZAŁKOWSKA ZACHĘTA PALACE UNIVERSITY RONDO BIAŁA SEWERYNÓW GALLERY OBOŹNA DYNASY WASZYNGTONA GRANICZNA TOPIEELDREWNIANA OGRODOWA KARASIA PL. MIROWSKI TRAUGUTA ELEKTORIALNA KRÓLEWSKA ZAJĘCZA CZACKIEGO FRANCUSKA CHURCH CICHA FINLANDZKA AL.Śródmieście JANA PAWŁA II OF THE KREDYTOWA ESTOŃSKA CHŁODNA ETHNOGRAPHIC HOLY CROSS KOPERNIKA DOBRA PONIATOWSKIEGO PASTA SZKOLNA SOLEC ŻELAZNA JASNAMUSEUM JAKUBOWSKA LIPSKA BUILDING ŁOTEWSKA STASZIC TAMKA CHOPIN CHŁODNA KROCHMALNA 9 GRZYBOWSKA PL. GRZYBOWSKI MAZOWIECKA PALACE MUSEUM WALICÓW KRUCZKOWSKIEGO IRLANDZKA NOWY ŚWIAT OKÓLNIK ZIELNA CIEPŁA JEWISH PRÓŻNA RYSIA KS.PONIATOWSKIEGO BRIDGE CZESKA NOŻYK THEATRE ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKAPL. ORDYNACKAKOPERNIKA WAŁ MIEDZIESZYŃSKI GRZYBOWSKA GAŁCZYŃSKIEGO WALECZNYCH Mirów SYNAGOGUE BAGNO POWSTAŃCÓW WARSZAW WARECKA AL. 3 MAJA POSELSKA WARSZAWY SABAT THEATRE POWIŚLĘ DĄBROWIECKA TWARDA MONIUSZKI AL. 3 MAJA OBROŃCÓWKATOWICKA ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKA BODUENA GÓRSKIEGO FOKSAL ZGODA SZPITALNA SOLEC ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKA SIENKIEWICZAWIECHECKIEGO WIECHA ZŁOTA GRZYBOWSKA SMOLNA PERECA EMILII PLATER ZGODA CHMIELNA AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE WARSAW PL. MUSEUM RONDO OF THE RISING DEFILAD BRACKA RONDO POLISH ARMY INDUSTRY ONZ Palace CHMIELNA MUSEUM GALULLE’A NATIONAL LUDNA MUSEUM of Culture DRAMATIC NOWY ŚWIAT ZWYCIĘZCÓW ŁUCKA & Science THEATRE MUSEUM PROSTA WIDOK ŚLISKA KRUCZA PAŃSKA Zlote TECHNOLOGY CENTRUM MYSIA AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE ROZBRAT SOLEC SIENNA Tarasy MUSEUM RONDO BRACKA KSIĄŻĘCA OKRĄG ŻELAZNA DMOWSKIEGO ST. ALEXANDER’S WILANOWSKA CHURCH RONDO TWARDA CENTRAL WARSZAWA POZNAŃSKA BUFFO THEATRE NA SKARPIE PAŃSKA ŚRÓDMIEŚCIE ŻURAWIA KONOPNICKIEJ DASZYŃSKIEGO ZŁOTA TRAIN NOWOGRODZKA PL. STANKA STATION TRZECH TOWAROWA (Warszawa PRUSA Centralna) KRZYŻY CZERNIAKOWSKA CHMIELNAWARSZAWA ROMA THEATRE MARSZAŁKOWSKA TWARDA WDK WSPÓLNA HOŻA ŻURAWIA SZARA TRAIN TRANSPORT SREBRNA NOWOGRODZKA CHAŁBIŃSKIEGO HOŻA WIEJSKA MUSEUM ŚNIEGOCKIEJKOŹMIŃSKA ZAGÓRNA PLATYNOWA AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE EMILII PLATER ŚW. BARBARY

WARSZAWA WARSZAWA WSPÓLNA WILCZA AL. UJAZDOWSKIE PARLIAMENT POZNAŃSKA KRUCZA GÓRNOŚLĄSKA GŁÓWNA OCHOTA ŁAZIENKOWSKI BRIDGE NOWOGRODZKA HOŻA PL. ZAWISZY PIĘKNA FABRYCZNA LENNONA MOKOTOWSKA JAZDOW MYŚLIWIECKA W. OCZKI JEZIERSKIEGO WILCZA KOSZYKOWA PIĘKNA PIĘKNA CHOPINA PRZEMYSŁOWA AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE KOSZYKOWA PL. UJAZDOWSKI NOAKOWSKIEGO KONSTYTUCJI Ochota KOSZYKOWAAL. RÓŻ PARK ŁAZIENKOWSKA

AL. NIEPODLEGŁOŚCI MOKOTOWSKA AL. ARMII LUDOWEJ

RASZYŃSKA CWKS ”Legia” CZERNIAKOWSKA LWOWSKA ŚNIADECKICH PL. GRÓJECKA POLITECHNIKA PL. UJAZDOWSKI CASTLE NOWOWIEJSKA NA ROZDROŻU STADIUM ZBAWICIELAWYZWOLENIA (CENTRE FOR POLNA CONTEMPORARY ART) MYŚLIWIECKA REKTORSKA KUSOCIŃSKIEGO FILTROWA FILTROWA Ujazdów LEKARSKA FILTROWA ZARUSKIEGO

AL. UJAZDOWSKIE LANGIEWICZA KAWALERII

MOKOTOWSKA RONDO LITEWSKA BOTANICAL DRAGONÓW AL. ARMII LUDOWEJ JAZDY POLSKIEJ GARDEN SZWOLEŻERÓW CZUBATKI WAWELSKA OLEANDRÓW AL. J. CH. SZUCHA POLNA

SPORT & TOURISM THEATRE WARYŃSKIEGO MUSEUM FIŃSKA PIŁSUDSKI ROZMAITOŚCI CHOPIN PALACE SKRA MONUMENT ONDRASZKA PARK ON THE STADIUM PL. BELWEDER PALACE WATER LESZOWA UNII LUBELSKIEJ BAGATELA (ŁAZIENKI) ROYAL BARTYCKA NATIONAL LIBRARY ŁAZIENKI ZWIERZYNIECKA PARK GOWORKA ROKITNICKA OKĘCIE BATOREGO PARKOWA AIRPORT POLE PIŁSUDSKI SULIGOWSKIEGO GEOLOGICAL S BELWEDERSKA MUSEUM PUŁAWSKA P

SIELECKA MOLOTOWSKIE PARK POLE A STĘPIŃSKA BATOREGO C HOŁÓWKI ŻWIRKI IWIGURY RAKOWIECKA E MOKOTOWSKIE R IWICKA O JULIANA BRUNA W A 10 Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com Opinion Debate Should Poland Negotiate With Terrorists? POLAND IN BRIEF

Mr. Jazdy, Ireland’s Worst Driver Last month's beheading of Polish engineer Piotr Stańczak shocked the nation. It was the first time that a Pole For years now, Irish police have been on was murdered in such circumstances since the War on Terror began. The ordeal of Mr. Stańczak lasted almost the trail of a notorious driver, wanted five months, prompting questions as to whether more could have been done to save his life. Above all, the for hundreds of speeding tickets, traf- killing raises the emotive issue of whether negotiation with terrorists is justifiable. In this month's debate, fic violations and parking fines. And now Robert Szmigielski argues in favour of dialogue, whilst James McNulty is unconvinced. they have finally caught him - kind of. It turns out that the suspect in all of these violations was a Mr. Prawo Jazdy - or, a "We know that we should never negotiate out of There are certain self-evident rules in the artof Mr. Driving License, translated from the fear, but that we should never fear to negotiate with modern statecraft that define who we are and what Polish. In fact, Mr. Jazdy had been en- our enemies,” an ex-senator from Illinois once said, we believe in. One of the most sacrosanct norms is tered into Irish police records for over borrowing words from a young Irish-American that governments do not and should not negotiate 50 different identities. For years, Irish president,F: whose life was cut short by a sniper on the sixth A:with terrorist groups. This question was raised again recently officers have been mistaking the title of floor of a Texan bookstore. in the context of the terrible murder of a Polish citizen by the Polish drivers’ licenses for their actual Despite the sickening execution of Piotr Stańczak in Paki- Taliban in Pakistan. Some critics claim that his life could have name - a mistake that, while oppor- stan, the Polish government would be wise to heed those been saved if the Polish government had negotiated with the tune to those caught, has undoubtedly words. Understandably, the barbaric way in which the geolo- captors. This is evidently an extremely speculative question cost the Irish government a good chunk gist was disposed of has sent pulses racing, but Polish diplo- that can never be answered. But the tragic kidnapping and of money in lost fines. In February, a mats should continue engaging terrorist groups and not take killing of a Polish engineer cannot change the reasons why memo was circulated through the po- this as a cue to stonewall fundamentalists. states should not talk to terrorists. lice forces clarifying this mistake. Now Naturally, many arguments exist as to why governments The reasons behind the aforementioned rule are rooted in that the police have finally caught on, should never negotiate with terrorists: giving into pressure both the moral and pragmatic dimensions of the decision- it seems that Mr. Jazdy will no longer be encourages similar behaviour; it projects a weak, helpless making process. But the central argument derives from an getting off so easily. government; and legitimacy attracts more followers - to name understanding of the state itself, especially if this state aspires but a few. But this is not necessarily so. to meet standards of contemporary liberal democracy. Grand Theft Tank Taking a hard-line approach would have undoubtedly From the moral perspective it simply seems impossible to Poland may have an unsavoury repu- ended Stańczak's life earlier, and surely any method to pro- talk to terrorist organisations whose main means of achiev- tation for producing car thieves, but long a hostage's chance of survival should be encouraged, as ing political goals consist of kidnapping or killing civilians. recently a band of robbers took that every delay brings the possibility of a resolution closer. Yes, When a government undertakes negotiations with terrorists, stereotype to the extreme when they it ultimately proved futile in this sad saga, but compassion for it implies that the state accepts the logic according to which attempted the theft of four Soviet-era a fellow compatriot is no sign of weakness. A government's terrorist groups operate. Not only is this exactly what terror- tanks. On the night of February 10th, supreme duty is to its citizens, and if that means being pre- ists aim to achieve, it also provides them with another factor the four tanks were hijacked from an pared to sit at the table with their enemies, no matter what the for future activities. In other words, if we talk to terrorists army test range in Jagodne, near Lublin. price, then so be it. once, we reward them for their ruthless and cynical fight for The T-34 and T-55 tanks, each weighing It shows a fundamental respect for humanity; a moral political goals. Moreover, by negotiating with terrorists we over 20 tons and worth around 60,000 strength, setting us apart from fanatics willing to end a life jeopardise the lives of other citizens, because it sends the sig- złoty, were taken by a group of men us- on a whim - no matter how twisted the logic of their “noble nal to the terrorist that their tactics work, and therefore that ing bulldozers and cranes in the middle cause” may seem. Indeed, there will never be a justification it pays off to continue such barbaric activity. of the night. Two days later, three of for the slaying of innocents, but no matter how much ter- Even putting moral objections aside, and taking purely the tanks were discovered in a private rorists appear to revel in their evil, we must appeal to any Machiavellian pragmatism as a core premise, negotiating with car park in Lublin, while the fourth was humanity they may have left. a terrorist is still the gravest mistake that a state can make in a stopped near Radzyń Podlaski, on its As Cris Currie, conflict manager and former president crisis. From this standpoint it is just another form of political way to a steel mill. Police believe that of the Washington Mediation Association, puts it: “...[rejec- suicide. When governments talk to terrorists it undermines the men planned to sell the tanks for tion] prevents clear communication from taking place, and it their position both at home and abroad. It shows the weak- scrap metal. Two suspects, aged 25 and guarantees defensiveness and resistance to change. We sim- ness of the state, which should be the only entity within its 35, have been arrested and are being ply need to make it clear that a decision to negotiate does not borders with a monopoly on using physical force. Terrorist held in Łukow, also near Lublin. mean acceptance of the other side’s behaviour.” organisations - which make murder, bombing, kidnapping Currie may never have dealt specifically with terrorists, and hijacking their trademark – challenge the legitimacy of More Attempts on Pope’s Life but his argument is worth considering. Clear dialogue clears governments by inflicting terror and fear. On the interna- Last month, Zdzisław Król, the chan- up misunderstandings that are easily made in cross-cultural tional level, states that negotiate with terrorists are seen as cellor of the Warsaw Metropolitan exchanges. Think of a situation in a noisy bar with two people dangerous anomalies that could lead to the destabilisation of Curia, brought to light two previously from different cultures, and the confusion (or in some cases, world affairs. It is no accident that those governments that unpublicised assassination attempts on anger) that can follow the misinterpretation of an innocent talk to terrorists are either the ones who support their activi- the late Pope John Paul II. Father Król comment. And if the difference between life and death is the ties or the ones that descend into political chaos. Such states stated that two attempts were foiled by meaning of a single word, the use of a quiet room can prove constitute one of the biggest problems for the international communist authorities during the late decisive. community. pontiff’s 1983 and 1987 pilgrimages to Of course, this is grossly over-simplified, and leads many Last but not least, we ought to bear in mind that modern Poland - one of which involved him di- to rubbish communication theory, but human beings are a terrorism is a complex phenomenon that is here to stay for rectly. In 1987, a Bulgarian assassin was species that fundamentally rely on communication to under- years to come. That means that people, societies and states to make an attempt on the Pope’s life stand one another – we only develop when it is unhindered. should learn how to live with the threat of terrorist activi- upon his visit to Częstochowa, but was And despite the fact that many governments do encour- ties. Obviously, by no means should we accept their logic and betrayed and arrested when his wife age dialogue in private, refusal to negotiate effectively slams tactics. But let’s not pretend that we can eliminate terrorism confessed to Father Król, her priest. shut the door of progress. It implies dismissal of the other entirely. We should rather try to limit the impact that terror- The news may be unsurprising, as the side and simply infuriates them further - which creates clear ists have on our way of life. That is the reason why not caving Pope was shot and critically wounded by setbacks to problem solving. in to terrorist demands is such a crucial task. By not negotiat- suspected Soviet agent Mehmet Ali Agca An organisation seen to be fighting for a cause will also ing with terrorists – regardless of the tragic consequences it in 1981. However, Poland’s Institute of not accept humiliation, and would be more liable to act irra- might sometimes cause – the state shows its strength. What is National Remembrance has expressed tionally if publicly chastised. If the chance arose to negotiate even more important, it proves that its citizens do not accept doubts concerning the evidence behind in private, this would give an opportunity for both sides to the guerillas' methods. And this is probably the best way of the assassination attempts, stating that make concessions, and to save face – crucial when negotiat- fighting the terrorists back. it is possible that the communist gov- ing the lives of hostages. ernment fabricated the plots in order However, this is not to say that governments should ap- to appear strong and able to protect its proach kidnappers without the threat of force. It simply uses citizens from threats while simultane- aggression as a last resort, with negotiations providing lever- ously intimidating the Catholic Church. age when dealing with governments that may harbour or sympathise with terrorist elements. Perhaps Teddy Roosevelt said it best: “Speak softly and carry a big stick.” Tragically, for Piotr Stańczak and his family, our stick just wasn't big enough. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MARCH 2009 11 Interview Our Man in London The President of the Federation of Poles in Great Britain talks to Robert Szmigielski

trolling into the lobby of Lon- end up living quite well.” don's Polish Cultural Centre, I I pressed Mokrzycki on what was be- passed a wall filled with posters, ing done to combat the unscrupulous haunted with the faces of those employment agencies and asked wheth- whoS went missing in search of their er there was some sort of partnership "British Dream." Were they victims of between Poland and the UK designated the migrant wave; those who drowned, to wipe out such organisations. unable to cope with an alien ocean, or “There is a collaboration with British were they claimed by the growing tide police, but it's not as good as it could of resentment faced by Poles on these be,” he admits. “A representative of the shores? Polish police works in the Polish embas- I found the offices of the Federation sy, and there are about four members of of Poles in Great Britain on the second the British police who deal specifically floor, and waited patiently for the Presi- with Polish immigrants. It's slowly start- dent - Dr. Jan Mokrzycki - to finish with ing to take on some kind of shape, but it his first interview. I sat in the small of- won't always be effective. We don't even fice of his secretary as she answered calls know how many British people - never and helped visitors to decipher basic ap- mind Polish - are missing in the UK.” plication forms. I asked Kasia if her day “But,” he said, as his forefinger prod- was usually like this. “Oh no – today is ded in my direction, “I think that the a quiet day. The phone usually never media are to blame. They portrayed the stops,” she said as, on cue, the phone be- UK to be a promised land – a country gan to ring. where you could pick up £50 off the I heard a commotion in the corridor, pavement.” and looking up, I saw the beaming, pleas- Depending on who one believes, antly-wizened face of Dr. Mokrzycki, Dr. Mokrzycki at his office in POSK / photo Robert Szmigielski there are between 400,000 and one and reached out to shake his hand. “No, million Poles currently in the UK, and no,” he smiled, “Not in the door frame “Firstly, ignorance, ignorance, igno- Stubbornness has long been known as much has been discussed both here and – it's bad luck!” I apologised sheepishly, rance – of the conditions, the culture a Polish characteristic, present during in Poland on the the implications of a and made my way into his office, sitting and British law. Unfortunately, there is proud moments in Poland's history: skilled-worker "brain drain" on Poland's on the other side of his desk, which was no cure for human gullibility,” he said the Battle of Monte Cassino, the skies economy. But with the UK gripped in littered with paperwork. grudgingly. “People are naïve and can be of blitzkrieged Great Britain, and dur- economic meltdown, I was curious if “The Federation was founded in easily led. The situation has improved, ing the fateful Warsaw Uprising - and many would go back. Was Mokrzycki 1946,” he said, responding to my first but we still have dishonest employment in this case, it appears to have been the optimistic? He laughs. question, “at the moment the British agencies [in Poland] that take people's downfall of some. “If I was not optimistic I would cer- government withdrew their recognition money promising a kind of 'El Dorado.' I briefly think back to the posters in tainly not be President of the Federa- of the Polish government-in-exile and “These people arrive and it turns out the lobby, and consider whether they tion,” he said, smiling. “I hope that a recognised the leaders of the People's that more money has been taken from were simply people unwilling to be lot of them will return to Poland. With Republic of Poland as the true govern- them to live in horrible conditions, and found, but am jolted from my daydream their additional experience and a good ment of Poland.” He slowly sat back in the work that was promised is non-exist- by Mokrzycki, who continues: knowledge of English it will be a huge his chair, probably preparing to repeat ent. Often they still have enough money “Many take work which is not legal, plus for Poland. There is no need to look the same spiel as heard by my predeces- to return to Poland, but –” Mokrzycki where the employer pays less than the at migration as something negative – as sor. pauses, perhaps thinking of a better way minimum wage, and exploits the work- long as it's not permanent.” He continued: “When the govern- to put it, “one must take into account er left and right. So they stagnate. They “A great example,” Mokrzycki said, ment-in-exile ceased to exist we be- – particularly in the case of men who live with three people in a room meant “is our Minister of Foreign Affairs came the main representative body for come here alone – pride. Nobody likes for one, and eat poorly. Some, over time, [Radosław Sikorski], who was an immi- Poles living in Great Britain. Our aim is to admit when they've been cheated.” begin to acquaint themselves with the grant to the UK. He completed his stud- to promote and spread Polish culture, I wondered whether they were the English language, but they waste the iees, gained valuable experience, and education, and to fight for the good same men sleeping rough at Victo- first year of their residence because they returned. Now he represents Poland on name of Poland.” We both smiled, and ria coach station, shop entrances and were hired illegally. the international stage.” I asked him the typical problems faced benches in London's West End. Proud “But we're talking about a relative- by Poles on arrival in Britain. At this he men unable to face their families, but ly small percentage here,” Mokrzycki This is the first of a two-part interview straightened up, his eyes piercing mine whose wives, children and parents want- quickly adds, possibly sensing my un- with Dr. Jan Mokrzycki. The story will as he spoke. ed nothing more than their safe return. ease. “Most Poles come, find work, and resume in our April edtion. 12 Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com Business & Technology Stray Trains in Małopolska Złoty's Ups and Downs Mix-up over subsidies leaves trains standing Currency in flux as markets panic

Grażyna Zawada Beata Michalik

aving issued a public railway denly lost their only means of transport he recent data from the Polish companies face problems with curren- bill, the Polish government launched a strike on December 18th at financial market have brought cy options. Since almost 60 percent of forgot to point out the entity the station in Kozłów. alarming news. The Polish home loans are denominated in Swiss responsible for inter-voivod- “Since my train was cancelled I use a złoty, which until last summer francs, the debt of almost a million shipH passenger connections, as a result bus to get to school in Olkusz, but I need wasT exceptionally strong, is now plum- Polish households has increased and if of which many people in Małopolska to leave my town, Bukowno, very early, meting and the Warsaw Stock Exchange worst comes to worst, banks may have lost their only source of transport to and the route itself is long and more ex- has been severely hit by the crisis. to force people from their homes or at schools and work. The impasse has now pensive,” said Piotr, a high school stu- In the second half of February the least put more severe restrictions on lasted for over two months. dent. Polish złoty slid to its lowest level in real estate purchases in the future. Passenger railway connections (the “My husband has to get to Katowice five years. In comparison, the euro rate Specialists are seeking solutions to so called osobowy trains that stop at somehow every day, [otherwise] where hovered around 4.9 złotys, the Ameri- remedy the situation and make Poland every station on a given route) are in can he find another job around here?” can dollar cost 3.9 złotys and the value more attractive to investors. For exam- some cases unprofitable, as few people asked Janina, a resident of Buczków. of Swiss francs amounted to 3.3 złotys. ple, Poland's entry into the exchange- use them. However, since it is the only “The trains are not planned [properly], Right before Poland’s entry into the Eu- rate mechanism known as ERM II could means of public transportation in many you need to wait for a train home for ropean Union, one could previously ob- increase the country’s credibility due to areas, the services have to be upheld. three hours,” she says. Her neighbour, serve a systematic growth tendency of the chance of joining the euro zone after The Ministry of Transport’s “Strategy Józef, echoed her sentiments: “I’m over the Polish currency, which lasted until two years of being in the euro “waiting for Railway Transport” assumed that 50, I get up at 2 pm and get back home last June. room.” In such a case, the Polish curren- the Polish Railway (PKP) would hand at 10 pm because that’s the connection At present the złoty is not only weak- cy would be constantly connected with over the subsidisation of passenger con- I’ve got now. How much longer can I do er than the Hungarian forint and Czech the European one and each greater fluc- nections to the appropriate voivodship this?” crown, but even the Ukrainian hryvnia. tuation would force the Central Bank to governors. Małopolska’s osobowy trains To add to this, taking advantage of In countries like Turkey, Mexico and intervene. were to be funded from the Małopolska the state bill, PKP has independently Brazil, which are ordinarily more prone “The złoty conversion to euro is more governor’s pocket since December created a company operating only in- to currency fluctuations, the situation is attractive at present than it was before 2008. ter-voivodship fast connections, the much more stable. Such a considerable the financial crisis,” said prof. Leszek The problem started when in early so-called pospieszny (stopping only in slump of the Polish złoty is astonishing Balcerowicz in Brussels. Trade unions December five out of 10 connections major stations), as well as express trains, since the economic situation of Poland unexpectedly supported euro adoption, in the northern Małopolska area were called PKP Intercity. As a result, the gov- is better compared to the aforemen- however the most influential parties – cancelled. These turned out to be inter- ernors wanted PKP Intercity to operate tioned countries. the governing PO and its opposition, voivodship passenger trains, going from cancelled passenger connections. According to market analysts, invest- PiS - have not come to an agreement on Katowice in the Śląskie voivodship, west “It is not true that inter-voivodship ment funds are to a large extent respon- the changes in the constitution without of Małopolska, to the Świętokrzyskie connections should be operated by the sible for the situation. Since the ana- which entry to ERM II could be a risky voivodship, through northern parts of governors, however in my opinion the lysts bet that the złoty would plummet, endeavour. Małopolska. Previously, these trains bill should have guaranteed it,” said they are now doing their best to make Jan Guz, the chairman of OPZZ, one were subsidised by the state, but the vice-governor of Małopolska Roman it weaker in order to make a profit. The of the most influential trade unions in bill doesn’t state clearly who is to pay Ciepiela. “The approved bill mentions intrigue has its source in the financial Poland, justified his support saying: for them now. None of the governors of only passenger trains inside a voivod- centres of London and New York. “Thanks to the euro, there will be no the above stated voivodships had spare ship. It is up to PKP Intercity to operate The reason for foreign investors flee- social dumping, [and] it will be easy to money to sponsor the unfortunate trains inter-voivodship trains,” says Ciepiela. ing the region is their conviction that compare salaries of people employed by as their budgets had been fixed the year “The government strategy intends Poland is not coping with the crisis as one corporation and working in differ- before for two years in advance. In ad- PKP Intercity to operate only fast trains,” well as it was expected. “Investors are ent European Union countries.” In this dition, the governors were not informed stresses Beata Czemerajda, a spokesper- afraid to take risks and Poland is con- way, Polish salaries – at present lower about the state quitting the subsidy. Al- son for PKP Intercity. sidered to be one of the high risk re- compared to those in France or Germa- though the Małopolska governor do- Negotiations are ongoing, but if gions,” explained Piotr Bielski, BZ WBK ny for example - may rise to European nated 12 percent more to uphold the Małopolska, Śląsk and Świętokrzyskie economist in Dziennik. The Polish standards. connections, it turned out to be insuf- governors will not convince the Min- economy is severely affected by the Rus- Although some experts have reserva- ficient and half of the routes were can- istry to create subsidies, it will be up sian economy due to the decline of the tions about Polish entry to ERM II in celled. Protests by trade unions, gover- to them to find the money. It has been ruble. It appears that the entire Central 2009 due to the crisis, the Polish govern- nors’ petitions sent to the ministry and unofficially said that Małopolska alone and Eastern European region of emerg- ment maintains its intention to adopt a citizens’ petition with 1,300 signatures would have to give 1.7 million złoty. No ing markets is suffering. the euro in Poland in 2012, since euro all failed to make an impact, and as a progress on this issue is expected until As a result, the burden of financial zone entry is considered to be profitable result, 100 desperate citizens who sud- the beginning of March. debt is increasing for banks and many for the Polish economy in the long run.

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Up in the Air krakow FEIJ Towering projects brought down to earth

Danuta Filipowicz Have you got a property for Tower is a lily-shaped, 250 metre high rent or sale? luxury apartment hotel and residential building that will become a unique addition to the skyline of Poland's capital. Designed by Zaha Hadid, who was the first woman ever to win the prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize back in 2004, the structure is planned to be built in the centre of the city adjacent to the Marriott Tower, and opposite the War- saw Central Railway Station. The com- FOR position of the Lilium Tower creates a SALE progressive and prestigious residential building for the 21st century. Sleek in form and wrapped in glass, the skyscraper boasts a design based on a fleur- de-lys motif. With a total floor space of 101,205 sq. metres, it will house apartments, a condominium hotel as well as commercial and recreation facilities. Advertise it HERE According to initial plans, it was to have been completed by 2012, but the in our dedicated global crisis has changed everything. Kalman Surfin, president of Lilium property section! Polska Sp. z o.o. could not even answer the Gazeta Wyborcza daily's questions about when the construction will start. “The situation on the market must im- [email protected] prove. Firstly, banks must begin giving credit for real estate investment and sec- tel: +48 (0)12 429 1699 ondly, the apartments must be pre-sold. uring a time of recession, tower. The total apartment area is over There will be around 600 suites and it is often only the cheapest 66,000 square metres. Over half of the necessary to make a reservation at least and most modest building flats are located in the tower. There will for 150,” he added. The total cost of the projects have a chance of also be a shopping mall with over 120 Lilium Tower investment is estimated at realisation.D Due to the global financial shops covering an area of 20,000 sq. around 400 million euros. problems, the 250 metre tall Lilium metres. A similar space will be occupied High-rise buildings are also in the Tower designed for Poland's capital was by offices. The complex will have a four- works in the north of Poland. Invest put on hold, announced the project de- storey car park with 2,000 parking lots. Komfort is finishing construction of the i n t e r i o r d e s i g n veloper in January. Over 10 000 sq. metres is designed for 138 metre high Sea Towers in Gdynia. Lilium Tower was not the first victim leisure facilities: a tennis court, a 25m Another developer, Hossa Investment fit out & furnishings of the global crisis in Poland. At the end swimming pool, a modern spa centre, Group, has planned to build a residen- of 2008 the property developer faced and an indoor golf centre. Wrocław's tial apartment even 50 percent higher. problems that affected the Sky Tower skyscraper will also house a medical The 202 metre high Big Boy Building investment in Wrocław. The investor centre and a nursery school. The Sky will be one of the highest skyscrapers wanted to go ahead with the Sky Tower Club, situated on the top floor (217 me- in the country and the highest in cities but had difficulties raising the finances ters), will offer the residents of the tow- located on the Baltic Sea. The designers and would have faced problems selling er a panorama of the city. At first, the have provided for a sea view from each the space. He has delayed the project building was scheduled for occupancy window of the building. But will it be for six months and hopes that in May in mid-2011, but now nobody wants to built or delayed like the other projects? things will be better. give a precise date. We won't know the answer until con- The Sky Tower project is a complex of The same problem faces the Lil- fidence returns to the development five buildings including the 258 metre ium Tower's developer in Warsaw. The market.

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- Late 19th century newly renovated Klepasz Beauty, simplicity, functionality... district - short walk to Planty or Galeria. Assisting you from concept to completion. - Fully furnished with original features and antiques. While you are away we turn your property - Sunny, South facing open views. into a really lucrative - Large entrance hall, separate WC, super bathroom plus shower, hand made beech wood kitchen investment or your dream hideaway in the inspiring city of Krakow. All of our apartments and small balcony. have been rented to foreign professionals or - Large double bed with lots of cupboard space. used as short term rentals of - Beautiful sitting room with comfortable sofabed for guests. exceptional standard. - Secure parking. w w w . z i e l i n s k a . c o m - Non smoking. Professionals/couples preferred. w w w . i n t e r i o r s k r a k o w . c o m Contact owner Andrée Koval: [email protected] + 4 8 5 0 4 6 7 6 8 6 0 14 Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com Sports Post Poles Must Get on the Ball SPORT IN BRIEF Daniël van Hoven Polish team prepares for World Cup qualifiers Tennis: Nadal and Williams King and Queen of Oz Wojciech Galon Rafael Nadal (Esp) is the new king of tennis. In a thriller of a final, the Spaniard defeated his eternal rival Roger Federer (Swi) in a nail-biting five set match: 7-5, 3-6, 7-6 (3), 3-6, 6-2. Nadal has now beaten Feder- er on all turfs: hardcourt, gravel and grass. It was his first win at the Australian Open and his sixth Grand Slam in total. Serena Williams (USA) took the ladies' crown. She defeated Darina Safina (Rus) in the final 6-0, 6-3. The decisive win was her fourth at this tournament. Previously, Serena Wil- liams triumphed in 2003, 2005 and 2007. Williams and her sister Venus also won the ladies' double. The American Bryan broth- ers, Mike and Bob, clinched victory in the men's.

Speed skating: Kramer and Sablikova world champions In Hamar (Nor), Sven Kramer (Ned) did not leave any doubt as to who's boss on the ice when it comes to speed skating. Clinching his third "triple" in a row (National, Euro- pean and World title in one season), the tall Dutchman relegated the rest of the pack to mere spectators, although local hero and runner-up Harvard Bokko (Nor) did not give in quickly. There was some success for Poland, with Konrad Niedzw- iecki adding a bronze medal in the 500 metres. Martina Sablikova (Cz) took the title in the ladies. The Czech diesel, who specialises in long distances, did not give Paweł Brożek, a promising striker from Wisła Kraków / photo courtesy of Wisła Kraków Press Office much ground on the shorter tracks, with a 10th place on the 500 metre sprint and an 8th on the nautical mile (1500 metres). Convincing wins on the 3 and 5 km races sealed victory for the young Czech and left piece of Brazilian magic led Brożek also featured prominently in Guerreiro’s moment of magic secured the competition - mainly from Canada and Poland to victory over Wales, the win over Wales, although it was sec- victory for the Poles. The Netherlands - without a chance. Ger- and proved to be the high- ond half substitute Guerreiro who stole Looking ahead, Poland will square up many, normally favourites, were under- light of an otherwise lacklus- the show. The Legia Warsaw playmaker against Northern Ireland in Belfast on represented: European Champion Claudia Atre showing by the national team dur- latched onto a long ball from Marcin March 28th, before returning to home Pechstein retreated after day one because ing two international friendly matches Wiesilewski 10 minutes from time, be- soil and facing San Marino in Kielce on of illness, and Anni Friesinger and Daniela played in February. fore looping the ball over Boaz Mayhill April 1st. Anschutz were not even there, preparing São Paulo born Roger Guerreiro, into the top corner of the goal. Meanwhile, the turbulent relations themselves for the world championship. given Polish citizenship last year to al- Although an improvement on the between the Polish Football Association low him to play in Euro 2008, produced Lithuania match, Poland struggled to – PZPN – and Leo Beenhakker have yet Cycling: Lance Armstrong a sublime lob to secure a 1-0 victory assert any dominance over a side rated again overshadowed on-field matters, returns to the peloton in what was the last match of Poland’s 37 places below them on the FIFA rank- following the Dutchman’s announce- The American seven-time Tour de France preparations for the upcoming World ings, and were put under consistent ment that he will combine his duties as winner returned to the peleton after an Cup qualifiers against Northern Ireland pressure in the first half. Poland coach with the voluntary role of absence of almost three years. Now rid- and San Marino. Led by Manchester City’s £14 mil- technical adviser with Dutch club Fey- ing for Kazakh team Astana, the veteran Poland coach Leo Beenhakker will lion signing, Craig Bellamy, Wales cre- enoord. returned with a 10th place in a time trial have a lot to contemplate before these ated a number of opportunities and PZPN president Grzegorz Lato im- prologue in The Tour of California, just 4 crucial fixtures, as his side failed to im- were unlucky to go into the break on mediately criticised Beenhakker’s de- seconds behind winner Fabian Cancellara press against the Welsh, while an exper- level terms. After 19 minutes, Bellamy cision, saying that the 66-year-old had from Switzerland. imental line-up proved ineffective dur- used his pace to skip ahead of the Polish enough on his plate as national team ing an earlier 1-1 draw with Lithuania. defence, before producing a fine chip coach ahead of the crucial World Cup Football: Hiddink new Beenhakker fielded a team comprised that was cleared off the line by Micha qualifiers. Chelsea manager only of players from the Polish Ekstrak- Żewłakow. The Welsh captain was in the Beenhakker disagreed. “Given the Following the sacking of Felipe Scolari lasa for the Lithuania game, and the in- action again in the 33rd minute, as his Polish team’s schedule, my free time is (Bra), it is now Guus Hiddink (Ned) who experienced outfit looked out of place in-swinging cross was met by a Jo Led- pretty flexible, so I can combine these will take the helm at Chelsea FC. The head on the international stage. ley shot that beat Łukasz Fabiański, only functions perfectly,” he said during a coach of the Russian national team was Shaky in all aspects of their play, the to crash into the bar. press conference in Rotterdam. asked to finish the season by club owner Poles were particularly guilty of poor Poland responded through efforts The Polish media was quick to specu- Roman Abramovich, who also happens to positioning and inaccurate passing dur- from Rafał Murawski and Robert late on a pending resignation by Been- pay the Dutchman's salary for his work in ing a dull encounter that produced little Lewandowski, with the latter squan- hakker from his duties as national team Russia. Hiddink has said that he not will goal mouth action. One of few positives dering the best chance of the half after coach, after the Dutchman gave strong stay any longer at Chelsea than the end was yet another solid display by Paweł failing to beat Wayne Hennessey with a signals that he is tiring of his fractured of the current season, after which he will Brożek, who has all but confirmed him- shot from the edge of the box. relations with PZPN. resume full attention to getting Russia to self as the national team’s first choice Both coaches made numerous chang- Asked by Gazeta Wyborcza if Poland the 2010 World Cup in South Africa. striker. His cool finish after 11 minutes es at half time and this seemed to affect may go into the March 28th qualifier gave Poland the lead, and he backed the fluency of the game, with neither against Northern Ireland with a new this up with some impressive one touch side able to take control and build pres- coach, the Dutchman replied – “any- plays with Wisła Krakow teammate sure on the opposition. As a result, there thing is possible.” Rafał Boguski. were few goal scoring chances, until www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MARCH 2009 15 Extra Post

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Poselska 18 Rynek Glowny 6 Hotel Grodek 188cm, enjoy travel, cinema, yoga and sport. available to order here in Krakow (biscuits not ul. Na Grodku 4 included!). Universities & Arka Noego Irish Mbassy Szara na Kazimierzu I have lived in Prague since 2004. Please reply Schools ul. Szeroka 2 ul. Stolarska 3 ul. Szeroka 39 Hotel Major with photo [email protected] ul. Gdyńska 6 Accent Language Art Club Cieplarnia Karczma Tajemniczy Ogrod To [email protected] or SMS at School ul. Bracka 15 “Podworko Maryny” ul. Bratska 3/5 Hotel Pod Roza ul. Lea 123 Rynek Główny 9 ul. Floriańska 14 +420608262058. New Record Shop Bagel Mama Tesoro del Mar We sell second hand and brand new records (new Bell Language ul. Podbrzezie 2 Klub Internetowy ul. Józefa 6 Hotel Pod Wawelem School Planet pl. na Groblach 22 International Women's Day and re releases). Apart from that we’ve got some ul. Michałowskiego 4 Balaton Rynek Główny 24 TramBar ul. Grodzka 37 ul. 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Tomasza 1 Lulu living Rynek Główny 19 and considerate. But since there's no such thing, ul. Miodowa 23/1, www.rezerwatwinyli.pl Boogie Cafe ul.Dajwór 10 B Trzy Papryczki Maly Rynek ul. Szpitalna 9 ul. Poselska 17 Hotel Wit Stwosz I'll take what I can get. Language School M Club ul. Mikołajska 28 E-mail: [email protected] Mały Rynek 3 Boom Bar Rush Klub ul. Tomasza 11a Trzy Rybki Restaurant ul. Gołębia 6 ul. Szczepańska 5 Hotel PTTK Wyspianski EMPLOYMENT Open Mind Massolit Books & ul. Westerplatte 15 ul. Bracka 1a/1 Budda Bar Cafe Vesuvio Small lovin' Rynek Główny 6 ul. Felicjanek 4/2 ul. Floriańska 38 Ibis Krakow Centrum Vertically-challenged male, mid-30s, looking for Pedagogical ul. Syrokomli 2 University Bull Pub Mechanoff Wedel Pijalnia his munchkin queen. I may be short on stature, English Tutor of Krakow ul. Mikołajska 2 ul. Estery 8 Czekolady Momotown Hostel Native American to teach English Conversation ul. Karmelicka 41 Rynek Główny 46 ul. Miodowa 28 but I'm big on love! Bunkier Sztuki Metropolitan E-mail: [email protected] Contact: [email protected] Poliglota Language Pl. Szczepański 3 ul. Sławkowska 3 Wentzl Restaurant Nathan’s Villa Hostel School Rynek Główny 19 ul. Agnieszki 1 Pl. Szczepanski 8 Cafe Camelot Miyako Sushi Caregiver ul. Tomasza 17 Rynek Główny 19 Wierzynek Restaurant Novotel Krakow Politechnika Rynek Główny 15 Bronowice I’m looking for a sleep-in carer for my auntie. Krakowska Cafe Golebia 3 Mleczarnia al. Armii Krajowej 11 SERVICES ul. Gołębia 3 ul. Meiselsa 20 Wisniowy Sad Duties: To take her a few times at night to the Prolog Language ul. Grodzka 33 Novotel Krakow School Cafe Manekin Moliere Cafe Centrum toilet. My auntie is compos mentis but needs as- ul. Bronowicka 37 ul. św. Tomasza 25 ul. Szewska 4 Wodka Bar ul. T. Kościuszki 5 MM GRUPA Cleaning Service sistant with walking and getting out of bed. ul. Mikołajska 1. International Cafe Philo Nandu Internet Cafe Orbis Cracovia Commercial and residential cleaning services Contact: [email protected] Training Center ul. św. Tomasza 30 ul. Wiślna 6 Youmiko Sushi al. F. Focha 1 “CzyZyny” ul. Szczepańska 7 Regularly Scheduled or one-Time / Occasional 2. Centrum Cafe Sukiennice Nic Nowego Orbis Francuski “Sokrates” Rynek Główny 1/3 ul. Krzyża 15 Zblizenia ul. Pijarska 13 www.mmgrupa.pl [email protected] pl. Nowy 8 tel: 012 655.04.35 or mobile: 781.15.05.75 DIRECTORY Jagiellonian University: Cafe Zakatek Nikita Bar Radisson SAS ul. Grodzka 2 ul. Sławkowska 26 Hotels, Hostels & ul. Straszewskiego 17 1. Campus Guest Rooms 24-HOUR POLICE STATION 2. Administration Coffeina Internet Nowa Prowincja Sheraton Hotel Will Think for Drink! Building Cafe ul. Bracka 3 Abella Guest Rooms ul. Powiśle 7 Quality proofreading service by a native Eng- RYNEK GŁÓWNY 29 3. Dom Gościnny Rynek Główny 23/3 ul. Długa 48 “Przegorzaly” Nowy Kuzyn Tango House B&B lish speaker – I proofread, you pay me in booze. tel: 012 6157317 4. Institute of Euro- Camera Cafe Mały Rynek 4 Affinity Flats ul. Szpitalna 4 pean Studies ul. Wiślna 5 ul. Karmelicka 7 Email to get my rates (in litres): 24-HOUR MEDICAL 5. Students Hostel Paparazzi Bar Tournet Guest Rooms [email protected] INFORMATION Casa della Pizza ul. Mikołajska Andel’s Hotel ul. Miodowa 7 Tischner European Mały Rynek 2 ul. Pawia 3 RYNEK GŁÓWNY 29 University Piano Rouge Trzy Kafki ul. Westerplatte 11 Cherubino Rynek Główny 46 Angel House al. Słowackiego 29 Cheap translation, Polish --> English. tel: 012 6612240 ul. św. Tomasza 15 ul. Blich 6 For rates, call Anna, 511906762 AGH Pod Aniolami Trzy Kafki Premium 24-HOUR EMERGENCY Technical University CK Browar Pub ul. Grodzka 35 Apple Pie Apartments ul. Dolnych Młynów 9 SERVICE al. Mickiewicza 30 ul. Podwale 6/7 ul. Wielopole 18 Pod Sloncem Zodiakus Hostel Musicians for Hire ul. Lazarza 14 University of Eco- Club Clu Rynek Główny 43 ARS Hostel ul. Augustiańska 4 “Little Owl” – a musical duo (accordion & ban- nomics ul. Szeroka 10 ul. Koletek 7 tel: 012 4222999 ul. Rakowiecka 27 Property Krakow Tutti Frutti Hostel jo) is available for art openings and other events, TOURIST INFORMATION Club Pod Jaszczurami ul. Cybulskiego 2 Atlantis Hostel ul. Floriańska 29 playing old-time European popular music. Rynek Główny 8 ul. Dietla 58 Ratusz tower, Rynek Główny Consulates Prowincja Cultural Centres Please call: (012) 421-60-29 Corleone ul. Bracka 3/5 Blue Bells Apartments tel: 012 4337310 American ul. Poselska 19 ul. Starowiślna 22 Bunkier Sztuki or email: [email protected] Consulate Punkt Pl. Szczepański 3 TRAIN INFO (PKP) in English ul. Stolarska 9 Cul-de-Sac ul. Sławkowska 12 Campanile ul. Na Grodku 4 ul. św. Tomasza 34 Kijow Centre tel: 9436 Austrian Consulate Re ul. Krasińskiego 34 ul. Krupnicza 42 Cyrano de Bergerac ul. Krzyża 4 City Hostel www.rozklad.pkp.pl ul. Slawkowska 26 ul. Krzyża 21 Kino Pod Baranami RECREATION German Consulate Red Rubin Rynek Główny 27 BUS INFO (PKS) ul. Stolarska 7 Czekolada ul. Grodzka 25 Deco Hostel ul. Bracka 4 ul. Mazowiecka 3a Princes Czartoryski tel: 9316 Hon. British Restauracja Hawelka Museum Basketball Consulate Del Papa Ristorante Rynek Główny 34 Dizzy Daisy Hostels ul. Pijarska 8 EMERGENCY NUMBERS ul. św. Anny ul. św. Tomasza 6 ul. Pędzichów 9 Men aged 15 and up interested in playing bas- tel: 997 Police Restauracja Pod ketball on a regular/weekly basis please con- tel: 998 Fire tact patrick hennessy at 691 642 513 or email tel: 999 Ambulance [email protected] SEND US YOUR CLASSIFIEDS Krakow Apartments Buddhist Centre Need to get a message across? Looking for love? Introduction to Buddhist meditation in English Have a TV to sell or a puppy to give away? call +48 (12) 4214865 in Kazimierz. Every Monday from 7 to 9pm at Contact us for more details: Sanghaloka Buddhist centre, ul. Augustiańska 4, [email protected] for a quote or to book www.krakow-apartments.com near Dietla. More info: buddyzm.info.pl/eng krakowPOSTPOST Cracow-Life.com 2 - CityLife Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com L i f e s t y l e PHOTO OF THE MONTH CONTENTS

>Jan Pieńkowski 6

> My Life: Piotr Sieklucki 3 > Head Out 3 > Fork Out 5

> EVENTS 8

> IN THE CLUBS 12

> INTERVIEW with Katarzyna Majak 13

"ABOVE PIERSIOWECZKA" by Renata Szczepanik, analogue camera > REVIEWS: Retrieval, Morrissey, Zakopane Style 14 Each month, the Krakow Post will choose one picture from amongst those sent in by readers to appear as the “Photo of the Month.” The winner will receive a free consultation with a lecturer from the Academy of Photography. In May 2009, one of the previous 12 win- > LAST PAGE: Stars & Sudoku 15 ners will be selected the Grand Prix winner and will receive a brand-new Nikon digital SLR camera, as well as a free course from the Academy in either English or Polish. We encourage all of Krakow’s residents to use photography as a means of artistic expression. Cover image from The First Christmas, by Jan Pieńkowski (Puffin Books) See more of Renata's photographs at www.szarareneta.digart.pl and http://plfoto.com/150484/autor.html Top: The Amber Mountain by Jan Pienkowski (Hutchinson Books)

KRAKOW CHRONICLES

John Marshall is a writer and teacher who packed to the rafters with tourists dreaming of imagination) by a herd of cowbells and a horde merry by jingling bells, and driven by barrel- has had the great fortune to live in Krakow clear blue skies, powder snow and short queues of adoring fans noisily beating their fists against chested górale (highlanders) trotted gently by, for several years. Krakow’s been good to for the ski lifts. And this year, like every year be- advertising hoardings. day-trippers tucked up beneath thick woollen fore, I decided to join them. blankets. They, like we, would later eat heartily him and, he hopes, he’s been good to Kra- Mind you, skiing’s very tiring, as is snow in gen- in one of the hundreds of karczmas (inns) before kow. Before coming to Poland, my experience of skiing eral, as it goes. Here, as in much of Poland, the sleeping it off and dreaming of the next day’s ad- was limited to childhood viewing of Ski Sunday, snow falls relentlessly. Outside my chalet window, ventures. Writing in a Winter Wonderland a British TV programme. We watched fascinated every couple of hours I see inhabitants shovelling as foreigners with badly-spelt names, dressed in snow from the roads in a show of defiance which Of course, the pace of life is slower in the sticks day-glo spray-on costumes, launched themselves makes King Canute’s stand against the rising tide than in the city – especially in winter. At break- There seems to be an inordinate number of wide- down unfeasibly steep mountainsides in the hope seem like a valuable use of time. fast, there’s always time to chat around the eyed, innocent-looking faces wandering unescort- of breaking none of their 206 bones in the pro- table. And I always enjoy having (as opposed to ed around town at the moment. This must mean cess. It was all very exotic and exciting back I couldn’t spend half my winter clearing the path choosing, in the city) to speak Polish. Out here one of two things: either Ryanair’s having another then, when my knowledge of Europe and Euro- just so I could remember where I left the dog. too, English-speaking Poles are about as rare ticket sale or the Polish schools are closed again. peans in general was very limited, fashioned by It takes all my energy just to wade through the as Polish-speaking Englishmen, so a little book- Yes, if it’s February, it must be ferie (winter holi- such reliable sources as Allo!Allo!, old war films snow to get to the ski slopes and put on my ski- learnin’ goes a long way, wherever you choose to days), the mid-winter school break enjoyed by and occasional Olympics featuring scary-looking, boots (“starość nie radość,” as the Poles say). So stay. Because, let’s face it, there is no shortage of Poles everywhere (well, those still living in Po- steroid-packed eastern European women. we decided to take a break yesterday and strolled winter holiday destinations for the intrepid tour- land, anyway). in one of the area’s many beautiful valleys. Mind ist. And if it’s your first time, just pop on your Still, that was thirty years ago, and both Europe you, even this was not without its dangers, com- thermals and rucksack and take the bus to the So while Britain grinds to a halt in the snow, Pol- and me have changed a lot since then. I’ve actu- plete with signs warning of hungry wild animals main mountain town, Zakopane. The season con- ish sport shops empty quicker than wallets in a ally become a skier. Me, from the flattest county and a four-star risk of avalanches. Fortunately, tinues until April, so swap the sludgy streets for January sale. Snow-chained cars piled high with in England! And you know, I’m actually rather we managed to disturb neither wild bears nor the snow-clad peaks and see what a real winter snowboards, skis, hats and gloves are driven deep good at it - taking to skiing like a duck to frozen towering walls of snow, the white stuff merely is all about! into wooded valleys. Everywhere wooden chalets, water. I knew all those hours of Ski Sunday would crunching underfoot, echoing softly against the guest houses and multi-storied hotels, all with pay off. Now, I zigzag (or, at least, zagzig) my way rock faces that loomed all around us in the gath- Selected pieces by John Marshall may be found at steep roofs groaning under months of snow, are to the bottom of the slope, to be greeted (in my ering dusk. Sleighs lit with flaming torches, made at http://krakowjohnradio.blogspot.com www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post MARCH 2009 CityLife - 3 MY LIFE HEAD OUT

Every month, “My Life” will introduce a resident of Krakow who we feel has made a positive impact on the city. This month, we interview Piotr Sieklucki, artistic and general director of Teatr Nowy in Krakow.

Chaiyo Therapy Centre ul. Dietla 103, +48 (12) 42 26 549, tajskimasaz.pl

Perhaps life has become more stressful even within Krakow's laid-back streets. Perhaps the financial crisis is putting those normally at ease into a lingering state of panic. Whatever the reason, it seems that the popularity of massage services is rising, and with it, the number of massage centres in Kra- kow.

Chaiyo, the city's only massage centre specialising exclusively in Thai massage, has been operating in Krakow since late 2006, though outside of its regular customer base it seems few people venture into the unremarkable building on Dietla that houses the therapy centre. After a particularly stressful week, and a body aching from one too many falls on a weekend snowboarding trip, I decided to give Thai massage a try.

The first thing I noticed about the massage technique itself is that it is far more intense than other types of massages I've had. The masseuse, a slight Thai woman in her late 30s or early 40s, used the force of her entire body in the process - and trust me, she's stronger than she looks. And while there were moments that bordered on pain, I decided to put my trust in the masseuse's hands (pardon the Which part of Krakow do you live in and why? pun) and let her do her magic. After all, with her certified training in Thailand, followed by years Piaski Nowe, Wola Duchacka. Only because I bought a flat there from a developer. Flats there are a of experience, and a tradition going back 2,500 years, I figured she knew what she was doing, and bit cheaper than those in the centre. despite the occasional discomfort I trusted I would come out feeling better than I did when I came If you were crowned king of Krakow, what would be your first move? in - and that turned out to be the case. I would kick out most of the bureaucrats, both from PiS and PO, for their idiotic moves concerning culture. Chaiyo offers nine different massages, all based on traditional Thai techniques, and divided into cat- What’s one place tourists mustn't miss when in Krakow? egories. There's the classical massage, with or without herbal compresses or oil - these are the most Kazimierz and Teatr Nowy. popular. Those a bit more sensitive to pain or pressure should opt for the classical massage with oils, Is there anything that’s overrated about Krakow? a kinder, gentler version of the original. Meanwhile, the herbal compress massage is perfect for these The slogan "city of culture." There's a lot more happening in Wrocław, Poznań or Gdańsk. cold winter days, as it involves heated bags of aromatic herbs mixed with rice that work to relax your If you had to erect a statue to any Cracovian, dead or alive, who muscles. Then there are specialised massages, such as those for the physically active or for seniors, would it be? or for just certain areas of the body. Our patron Janusz Marchwinski. Which Polish stereotype do you find the funniest? While Chaiyo offers a "tea transition" between the massage and your re-entry into the real world, That we steal. it seems it could do a bit more to accentuate the difference between the relaxing sphere of a mas- Where do you buy your clothes in Krakow? sage centre and the noisy rumblings of Dietla just behind the window. Little things like incense, long It depends. Usually in Krakow's shopping centres, such as Galeria Kazimierz. drapes or more decorations masking the fact that this is just another Cracovian kamienica would do What are some of your regular eating and drinking haunts in the city? wonders for the atmosphere. Studnia in Kazimierz, Kokon, Alchemia. What’s your biggest annoyance about living in Krakow? Walking the streets of Krakow and scanning the rarely-smiling faces rushing to and fro about their Traffic jams in the city. business, it seems that most people could use a bit of stress relief in the form of massage. The owners Where do you go to escape for the weekend? are ready to reward loyal customers. After five massages the sixth one is free. Gift certificates are I usually work on the weekends. If I have days off, I gladly go to Wrocław. also quite popular - a good idea for any boss noticing an employee about to blow a fuse. What’s the best place to go on a long walk or bike ride in the city? The boulevards by the Vistula. Finally: pierogi or naleśniki? Pierogi! Anna Spysz

www...... ------... 4 - CityLife Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com ADVERTISEMENTS

restaurant

delicious hungarian cuisine

ul. Grodzka 37, Kraków tel./fax: (0) 12 422 04 69 www.balaton.krakow.pl

Restaurant with unique temperament and Cracow atmosphere ! Famous restaurant on the “King’s Road” from Wawel Castle to Main Square. You can eat your dinner in one of the antique carriages… Traditional old polish cuisine using old recipes and charred beech wood grill. Dishes prepared over a beech wood grill using old polish and Italian recipes. (Restauracja z atmosferą średniowiecznego Krakowa, (To restauracja z włoskim temperamentem i krakowską atmosferą! na „Drodze Królewskiej” z Wawelu do Rynku Głównego. Można tu zjeść kolację w jednej z karet, wśród uskrzydlonej łodzi Zapraszamy w kulinarną „podróż” do staropolskich smaków. rybackiej i góralskich sań. Ogródek z fontanną na dziedzińcu.) Kuchnia polska, włoskie pasty…i tiramisu!) Courtyard garden and medieval atmosphere. “Cherubino” ul.św.Tomasza 15, Krakow, tel. 012/4294007, ul.Grodzka 35, Kraków, tel. 012/4213999, tel./fax. 012/4294147 tel./fax. 012/4302113 www.cherubino.pl www.podaniolami.pl www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post MARCH 2009 CityLife - 5 FORK OUT

Al Dente! ul. Kupa 12, aldente-krakow.com

Not to be dissuaded by the fact that Krakow may actually be the city with the most Italian food outside of Italy, new Kazimierz addition Al Dente has courageously stepped into the local culinary ring. With a Sardinian chef at the helm, Al Dente is competing against other top notch Italian operations such as Aqua e Vino and Del Papa and after my recent visit I'm convinced the new kid might just come out on top.

With a menu offering the standard selection of Italian cuisine (pizza, pasta, and mains of meat and fish), you'd be forgiven for thinking there's nothing particularly original about Al Dente. But look a little closer and you'll see that ingredients are carefully selected, with region-specific delicacies including Sardinian sausage and bottarga (cured and pressed caviar). Al Dente also brazenly refuses to conform to Krakow's dark n' romantic stereotype and with its minimal décor the food is allowed to be presented on a blank canvas. Inside, artsy shots of pasta don the white walls while mahogany furniture adds that crucial element of warmth.

Considering the interior, some might assume that, like other modern-looking restaurants, Al Dente / photo Mateusz Majewski serves irrationally tiny portions which end up more like parodies of an actual meal. What exactly is this unspoken correlation between interior design and portion sizes? Is it possible for a fanatically rustic Pol- Maui Bistro & Coffee skie Jadło to serve anything but enormous dishes with kotlety the size of your face? I can only imagine ul. Raciborska 17, maui.pl the look of horror if one was presented with a palm-sized sliver of pork, even if the meat was cooked perfectly and of the highest quality (though the likelihood of being able to taste anything in those battered-to-death pancakes is questionable). Starting off with a giant leap into my good favour, Maui Bistro & Coffee's menu had my mouth watering at first glance and a website which had me contemplating a move across the city (conveniently I had So because of this eternal mystery, I admit I was genuinely shocked when my starter cheese platter heard of some steadily advancing plans to bring a tram line to the area...). The website seduced me arrived. Luckily, it was not because I was served the Krakow standard of mozzarella/brie/gouda (wow, completely with tales of smoked salmon & cream cheese, radicchio, speck, and rucola - words not often don't shock my palette all at once), but rather by the sheer volume of dairy placed before me. On the discussed openly in Krakow's dining establishment. wooden board was a wonderful assortment of hard, soft, and runny cheese from Parmesan to Gorgon- zola. However, this could have easily sated four diners as a starter and since I had foolishly polished off On offer at Maui are wraps, soups, salads, American desserts, and all types of sandwiches such as foc- most of the bread basket that arrived earlier I was left with a few walnuts and my glass of wine to ac- cacias, ciabattas and baguettes. So off I bravely ventured to the distant lands of Ruczaj, to Pasaż Ruczaj company me on this cheesy odyssey. Not a bad start, though I would have unquestionably paid the same and the hidden hallway in which Maui is tucked away. Bright kindergarten colours keep things lively and money for 50 percent less cheese and a few more nibbles in the manner of grapes or figs. fresh at Maui, while lounge music plays softly in the background and ready-made sandwiches and salads wait casually in a large open fridge. I could have sworn I took a wrong turn at Zakopianka and somehow Next up were our mains - his was tagliatelle with zucchini and prawns and mine pizza Napoletana, and ended up in Amsterdam or San Francisco. Perhaps a move to Ruczaj is not impossible? both arrived in generous portions. From only my few stolen bites it was clear the pasta was faultless with light, balanced flavours. On my side of the table, I'm glad to report, was an immaculately cooked Unfortunately, first attempts at coffee had me running for a gastronomic encyclopaedia when a wa- pizza. A subtly flavoured, thin, crispy disc of floury dough expertly burnt in all the right places grace- tery, tepid drink was placed before me, masquerading as a cappuccino. Luckily, a hint at something fully carried the Napoletana's anchovy fillets and capers. So while the pizza was artfully prepared, and wrong had the staff make us seconds, this time arriving as frothy, wonderfully brewed mugs of java. I would dare say in competition for best pizza in the city, I had to come to terms with the fact that Now getting all hands on deck (quite endearingly) to deal with four customers, Maui's staff served us anchovies are clearly too sodium-heavy for me. The salt content was tongue-shrivellingly high, but I'm our heated-up wraps with grilled chicken, avocado, salsa, and grilled red pepper, plus a baguette with sure there are plenty of anchovy lovers out there that would have been in heaven. grilled bacon, swiss cheese, cucumber and lettuce. The bad news is that the wraps were really quite underwhelming. Yes, the chicken was tender and the red pepper was sweet and juicy. But the avocado Despite being on my second glass of wine to compensate for the anchovy attack I eventually wimped out was limp and sad-looking, and the salsa was nowhere to be tasted, prompting my friend to claim that and left a sizable chunk of pizza on my plate. Attempting to cheer ourselves up from this sad sight we the wraps are "better at BP." Ouch. Luckily the baguette was light years ahead and the melty cheesy ba- decided to finish things off with a delicious chocolate pear cake and a pair of espressos. The chocolate cony goodness was delicious. Finishing things off was the inevitable trip to the dessert section (provided pear cake was a slice of dense bitter chocolate on a crumbly Italian shortcrust pastry, finished off with by More Than a Cookie), from which a brownie and blondie (peanut butter square) brought me back to a slice of soft pear on top. For a sweet touch the cake was drizzled with chocolate sauce, creating a my childhood, much in the manner of food critic Anton Ego at the end of Ratatouille. Yum. perfect contrast against our strong coffees. The great news is that even though this particular visit was admittedly a tad excessive, on a normal night two can easily wine and dine like culinary kings for under Sure there were a few mishaps here and there, but like so many of those nearly-amazing places in 100 złoty. Krakow, this one has masses of potential. If those wraps were only just bursting with fresh, crispy ingredients and tangy flavours rather than those apprehensive so-so slivers, Maui could easily be the city's In the end, while Al Dente may not be the rustico paradise we're used to in this city, it presents what ev- top lunch destination and delivery service. The ideas are all there - I just have an inkling that all they ery modern kitchen should be leaning towards these days - up-to-date interpretations of regional, tra- need is a little prodding and a little practice. Having been in the running for just three weeks, I can only ditional cooking. Confident but unassuming, Al Dente is clearly ready to challenge the pre-conceptions say - fair enough. I'll be back soon, and I encourage everyone to check them out. of Cracovians towards Italian food.

Dana Dramowicz Dana Dramowicz

“…that honor goes to Cafe Camelot, which might just be my favorite cafe in the world (..go for apple pie)” David Streitfeld “The Washington Post Travel” Summer restaurant-boat located in the bend of the Vistula River at the foot of the Wawel Castle. Coffee house – gallery with the most romantic summer garden in Cracow. Sitting on its upper deck, you will recall long-forgotten charms of life The magical atmosphere of that place and original interiors dating back on the Vistula River. to the XIII century. (Galeria – kawiarnia z wyjątkowym ogródkiem w Zaułku Niewiernego Tomasza. (Letnia restauracja na statku na Wiśle u stóp Wawelu. Jest miejscem spotkań niezwykłych ludzi, koncertów, kabaretów i recitali. Siedząc na górnym pokładzie odnajdą Państwo dawno zapomniane uroki życia W galerii na piętrze wydarzenia artystyczne i wystawy fotograficzne. nad Wisłą.) W piątki kabaret „Loch Camelot”)

Galar “Pod Aniołami” Zakole Wisły, On Fridays Loch Camelot Cabaret. Bulwary Wiślana vis a vis Hotelu Sheraton, Cafe Camelot” ul. św.Tomasza 17, Kraków, tel. 0691 44 04 03 tel.012/4210123 6 - CityLife Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Culture Goths, Ghouls and Baba Jaga A glimpse into the weird and wonderful world of Jan Pieńkowski

Nick Hodge

ondon is not the first city that leaps to mind when one thinks of the snow swept romances of fairy tales (until last month, that is). But artist Jan Pieńkowski, who hasL lived in the English capital for most of his life, had another world to draw from when he began Nut Cracker, his latest book. Sifting through the family albums that had been saved from the wreckage of the Second World War, he transported himself back to the Poland of his childhood.

Still little known in the land of his birth, Pieńkowski has long been one of Britain's most celebrated illustrators. Meg and Mog, his classic about a clumsy witch who can't get her spells right, has sold three million copies in Britain alone, and has since stretched to 16 titles. Like- wise, his rip-roaring pop-up books Haunted House and Dinner Time revolutionised the genre.

Perhaps not entirely surprisingly, Pieńkowski's ambitions were considered wildly eccentric in the sober world of 50s Britain. Having won a place to study Classics and English at Cambridge, his tutors nearly had a heart attack when he sug- gested transferring to architecture, the more artistic option. He was refused. Likewise, having finished his studies, ad agencies were dumb- founded that someone with a degree actually wanted to work in the arts department. In those Jan Pieńkowski days, certain professions were simply not the done thing. However, in 1971 Pieńkowski scooped When I make a "mistake" or blot on the artwork, the prestigious Kate Greenaway Award for illus- I try to incorporate it in the finished result as tration, and since then, he's never looked back. a welcome innovation. The Goths are a perfect example. For Nut Cracker we went on a tour of One of the first books that I remember from Saxony because of the Polish connection, Augus- childhood is the pop-up Haunted House, which tus The Strong, and the fact that my mother's was one of my most treasured possessions. family claimed to have come from Zgorzelec/ Was it a rewarding project to work on? Görlitz. We happened to arrive at Leipzig on the day of the annual "Gothic Wave Treffen." The Yes, I'll say. When I started, I had absolutely no Goths were elegant and utterly charming - I par- idea of paper mechanics, except making Christ- ticularly remember a young Gothic couple all in mas Tree decorations and paper models of trams black having a cup of coffee in an outdoor cafe, in Poland as a child. I decided the book should with the man rocking a contented little Goth be a tour of an old fashioned English house, from baby in its carriage. an Agatha Christie thriller. I made the first dum- my for Haunted House out of an old Corn Flakes Although you have lived in England for most of packet and lots of sellotape and much bad tem- your life, it seems that Poland provided a lot of per. I then was offered the services of a bril- inspiration for your work - the stories that you liant Norwegian paper engineer, Tor Lokvig, who were told about a witch, the snow swept win- came from Los Angeles and worked with me for a ters of your childhood, the "Straszny Dwor!" week on polishing up the paper mechanics. Then Could you tell us a little about this? I went to Colombia and worked with a brilliant production engineer, Inez Calvache. I remember The stories about the Baba Jaga [the archetypal one night we worked until three o c'clock in the Slavic witch] were told to me by our neighbour's morning when we were trying to stop the spider wife, who sometimes looked after me, Pani Ko- in spread one from getting trapped in the ban- buszewska, who used these terrifying stories to nisters. I loved the whole job. It embodied my induce me to drink my boiled milk, a bit like She- childhood terrors and laid a few ghosts to rest at herezade, only more frightening. I have used the the same time. I am still proud of it to this day. house on the chicken's foot several times in Eng- lish stories [see picture left], and I think that the It was fascinating to hear that a breakthrough Baba Jaga was the inspiration for Meg. Perhaps I in Nut Cracker came when you bumped into invented her to purge my childhood terrors. The a clan of goths in Germany. Does a lot of your winter snow with the contrasting dark figures has inspiration come from happy accident? probably prompted my affection for silhouettes The cackling crone above was inspired by Baba Jaga, the archetypal Slavic witch. which are so popular throughout central Europe The image was painted for A Necklace of Raindrops, by Joan Aiken (Puffin Books) Yes, you're right. I don't believe in accidents. from Switzerland to Poland. My father did have www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post MARCH 2009 CityLife - 7

CULTURE IN BRIEF

Wajda Victorious

Andrzej Wajda, the grand old man of Polish cinema, is enjoying an extraordinary resurgence, with three separate projects making waves around the world. On February 14th, the 83-year-old director won the Alfred Bauer Award at the Berlin Film Festival for his latest feature Tatarak. The prize is granted specifically to a work that breaks new boundaries in cinema - an achievement not usually as- sociated with octogenarians, as Mr. Wa- jda himself joked. Four days later, Wa- jda's previous film Katyń opened in the U.S., gaining triumphant reviews from The New York Times, The New Yorker and other key publications. Wajda is clearly determined not to rest on his laurels - the director has just announced that he is commencing a film about none other than Lech Wałęsa, hero of the Solidarity revolution. This news came as a delight to Mr. Wałęsa himself, who besides de- claring that Wajda was the only director who could make such a film, added that Robert De Niro was his personal choice for the lead role.

Fallout Over National Shrine

Jan Ostrowski, the Chief Conservator of Wawel Cathedral, has resigned from his position, following disagreements with Prelate Zdzisław Sochacki. Mr. Ostrowski, who is also the director of the adjoin- ing Royal Castle, apparently became alienated after Father Sochacki pushed through a series of unapproved renova- tion measures. Amongst the most contro- versial undertakings by the cleric were the piercing of a 17th century wall in the Cathedral Curacy and the removal of the ancient bell clapper from the so-called Tower of the Silver Bells. Although Mr. Ostrowski refrained from saying as much, A scene from Nut Cracker (Puffin Books). Inspiration for the costumes came from a chance encounter with some German goths. it appears that the final straw was the unsanctioned statue of Pope John Paul II, which emerged unexpectedly one day opposite the doors of the Cathedral. Fa- a dwór but I don't think it was at all straszny. I As for my memories of Poland, I was brought Londres about the splendour and squalor of ther Sochacki declined to comment on remember very little about it, except the garden up in the country, first in my father's house 1880s London foreshadows the social divides of Mr. Ostrowski's resignation: "That's his af- and the dogs. Perhaps it was my father's stories and, once the war started, in Płockie, in idyl- today. fair," he told Dziennik Polski. of the old house that were subsequently echoed lic countryside where the chief attractions were in The Haunted House in 1980. the woods, the pond and the blacksmith's shop. What do think the secret is in creating a good I was surrounded with horses, farm animals and illustrated book for children? Starowieyski Takes Final Bow Where exactly was your family home? poultry and the odd orphaned baby deer or fox which my father brought from the fields and we I think it must be a bit like writing a song: there's One of Poland's most celebrated artists My father's house was in Podlasie, an old wood- looked after. This picture of Poland had hardly the tune and the words. They're both equally im- passed away on February 23rd. Fran- en manor house with a park going down to the changed by the time I saw it again in 1960. What portant, and it's hard to know which comes first. ciszek Starowieyski, a flamboyant noble- River Bug. That part of Poland is infested by had changed drastically was the picture of War- In the case of Gilbert and Sullivan, they came man who refused to acknowledge that Pieńkowskis, going back to the late Middle Ages. saw, where I used to visit my grandmother and together, although they both loathed each other the 21st century had dawned, signed his Of the house nothing remains; the landscape is my uncles and aunts, which I saw being totally 'till the bitter end! The fact they loathed each works with Baroque era dates and cele- as beautiful as ever. destroyed in 1944 and then partly rebuilt in 1960 other didn't stop them producing marvellous brated the coming of the year 1700 when in a rather alien Soviet style. Even now, I see it tunes and lyrics that are still going today. many of us welcomed in the millennium. For many Polish exiles during the 1950s and pretty clearly as it was when I was a child, when A friend told Radio Polonia that "he could onwards, there was a sense that a certain the greatest treat would be a ride in a horse cab As a Brit living in Krakow, I quickly fell under talk for hours about a 17th century cross world was lost forever. How did Poland appear or a cake in Nowy Świat, where by the way I was the spell of the local folklore - the Krakow or mirror but had nothing to say about in your mind's eye as a young émigré growing when the first shot of the Rising happened on Dragon, Pan Twardowski, the noble trumpeter computers or mobile phones." Educated up in England? August 1st, 1944. who saved the city from the Tatars! The list is at Krakow's Academy of Fine Arts, Star- endless. Have you ever felt inspired to illus- owieyski is chiefly known for his paint- I don't think émigré is the right word; I was three Britain has a rich tradition in illustration, from trate a collection of classic Polish tales? ings and poster designs. However, he also years old when Poland lost her independence. I Tenniel to Quentin Blake. Which artists do you excelled at set design, even carrying off was seven during the whole Warsaw Rising. In admire and why? Yes I have. The only thing is, I'm not entirely sure cameos on the silver screen - he played September 1944 the city was flattened and we what source would be best - I work with my eyes, iconic painter Jacques-Louis David in An- were transported to the Reich. I spent a year John Tenniel's immortal Alice. Aubrey Beards- so I don't like reading, and I would prefer some- drzej Wajda's Danton. Starowieyski was in wartime Bavaria before being liberated by US ley's devastating Salome. Cecil Aldon's irresist- thing I could listen to, read by good people. Your 79 when he passed away, and he had troops and taken to Puglia in Southern Italy to ible dogs. Mervyn Peake's unfinishedBleak House recommendation would be most welcome. been suffering from heart problems. join up with the Polish Second Corps for a year (he used to teach me at the Central School in and a half, and was eventually invited by the London). My heroes don't have to be English. British Government to settle in England, which I I admire Lotte Reiniger's masterly shadows. have been grateful for ever since. I was also very keen on Gustav Doré, whose book © Jan Pieńkowski 2009 8 - CityLife Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Posted

NIGEL KENNEDY PLAYS HENDR IX

ost Cracovians have had some sort of experience with part-time local, vir- tuoso violin player, and incomparableM character Nigel Kennedy. Whether you've spotted him downing a beer on the Market Square, attended one of his concerts, or simply asked him for an autograph, these experiences are always strange, amusing, and usually riddled with a few good- hearted vulgarities. In fact, he seems like a perfectly normal, laid-back football loving kinda guy - until he picks up his bow and blows us all away with his technically flawless and incredibly pas- sionate performances (while dressed like a punk pirate, of course).

Returning to Małopolska this month, Kennedy will be performing his impro- vised reinventions of Jimi Hendrix's works which were featured in his 1999 recording, The Kennedy Experience. Joining him through such classics as "Lit- tle Wing" and "Purple Haze" will be legendary Polish jazz musicians Jarosław Śmietana on guitar, Wojciech Karolak on Hammond organs, Adam Kowalews- ki on bass, and Krzysztof Dziedzic on drums. Despite taking place at the traditional home of straight-faced tuxedo wearers, there'll certainly be no risks of dozing off this time - the performance is set to be an engaging and ener- getic fusion of rock, classical, and jazz influences. And with Kennedy's running commentary and mischievous charm this will be anything but a stuffy night at the philharmonic.

"Jimi Lives!" when - Tuesday 10th March, 20:00 where - Philharmonic Hall, ul. Zwierzyniecka / photo courtesy of Philharmonic Hall Tickets 100 - 140 złoty www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post MARCH 2009 CityLife - 9

the month in events Cracow-Life.com

SPECIAL EVENTS EXHIBITIONS MARCH OF REMEMBRANCE: 66TH HANA USUI ANNIVERSARY OF THE LIQUIDATION Acclaimed Japanese calligrapher Hana Usui OF THE KRAKOW GHETTO brings a stark and striking modernity to the The March of Remembrance is a deeply af- ancient tradition. Now resident in Berlin, the fecting experience echoing the liquidation Tokyo-born artist is presenting a series of his of the Krakow Ghetto by the Nazis in March abstract creations in the Manggha Museum. 1943. At around midday, a small crowd will Well worth dropping by. gather outside the Pharmacy Under the when - Until 15th March Eagle in Podgorze. Then the marchers will where - Manggha Museum, follow the route taken by Jewish prisoners to ul. M. Konopnickiej 26 the forced labour camp at Plaszow. Later in the day, Lili Haber, the daughter of ghetto ISABELLA HOLLAUF survivors and the head of the Association of Austrian photographer Isabella Hollauf is Cracovians In Israel, will give a talk at the fascinated with utopian models of society, Galicia Museum. The discussion will be held particularly the now faded leisure park in English at 5 pm (ul. Dajwor 18). complexes that offered everyone the chance when - 15th March to lead a hearty, socialist life. Hollauf has where - Plac Bohaterów Getta explored many former communist states, as well as Western countries that launched far- WEEK OF FRENCH CULTURE reaching socialist programmes. Her images The French Institute in Krakow is marking touch upon the shifts in value perceptions of the "Journée internationale de la Franco- the last two generations. phonie" (celebration of the international when - Until 2nd April day of Francophonie) with a series of special where - Bunkier Sztuki, Pl. Szczepański 3a events. Amongst the attractions are a concert by Justyna Bacz interpreting the GUILT AND PUNISHMENT songs of French singer Georges Brassens Following on from their vivid exploration of on the 17th, and exhibitions by French artist the "Seven Deadly Sins", the ICC presents Cyprien Tokoudagba on the 18th. justice, the old-fashioned way. Prints by when - 16th until 23 March Dürer, Brueghal, Rubens and Hogarth where - Various are amongst the highlights of this visceral show. Well worth dropping in. LECTURE: JEWISH MYSTICISM - FROM when - Until 19th April EARLY TIMES TO THE KABBALAH where - International Cultural Centre, Rabbi Tanya Segal leads a talk in English Rynek Główny 25 on the fascinating world of Jewish mysticism. Starts 5 pm, free entry. MY NOWA HUTA - 1949-2009 when - 18th March Many Cracovians are loathe to concede that where - Galicia Jewish Museum, Nowa Huta is a part of their city. You can ul. Dajwór 18 see their point. The socialist 'ideal town' was tacked on by Stalin after the "bourgeois" FESTIVALS Cracovians voted "no, no, no" against a three-pronged communist publicity campaign. Still, much to the ire of the authori- MUSIC & WORLD: DOCUMENTARY ties, the factory workers of Nowa Huta rose FILM FESTIVAL up against Big Brother, becoming a bastion This third edition of the Music and World of the Solidarity movement. 2009 marks documentary film festival will be showcasing the fiftieth anniversary of the foundation some of the most interesting musical docu- of the town. The exhibition homes in on mentaries of recent years such as Lomax, 12 key figures, including one of the origi- the story of legendary American folk song nal architects of Nowa Huta, Stanisław collector Alan Lomax, Respect Yourself Juchnowicz, and Solidarity priest Father exploring the history and importance of the Jan Bielański. Photographs and personal vital soul label Stax as well as Dub Echoes, a documents are complemented audiovisual film exploring the persistent influence of dub "Abandoned XI" (After Caravaggio) 1980 by Zbylut Grzywacz (National Museum in Krakow) interviews. music, particularly in hip-hop and electronic when - Until 19th September KATARZYNA MAJAK - DESIRE genres. Several concerts are scheduled as where - Nowa Huta branch of Historical Women's Day is upon us once again, and well including Karl Hector & The Mal- Museum, os. Sloneczne 16 artist Katarzyna Majak has created a couns and Africa Delay. For a full sched- rather atypical tribute, based around the ule and more details visit muzykaiswiat.pl FIRST STEP iconic image of the wedding dress. The when - 19th - 22nd March Heavyweight collector Rafał Jablonka has "happy ending" may not be quite what you where - various lassoed a lorry-load of contemporary classics expected...See interview on page CL11. for this lively show at the National. Decide when - 6th March - 4th April 13TH LUDWIG VAN BEETHOVEN for yourself whether Andy Warhol's icons where - Galeria Zderzak, ul. Floriańska 3 FESTIVAL deserve iconic status, or whether Mike Kel- Although the main bulk of the concerts will ley's concoctions embrace style over sub- ZBYLUT GRZYWACZ (1934-2004) be hosted in Warsaw, Krakow gets a short stance. And what about Nobayosho Araki? Artist and freedom-fighter Zbylut Grzywacz but sweet look-in. Composer and festival Is his photographic chronicle a brave evoca- was one of the outstanding Cracovians of creator Krzysztof Penderecki will be tion of love and loss? Or has he crossed a his generation. Although imprisoned during conducting Ludwig's Prometheus Overture at line in exploiting his own misfortune? There's Martial Law, he always managed to bounce the Philharmonic on Thursday 26th. Also in plenty to chew over here - always a good back, ultimately taking part in over a hun- the programme is Mr B's Violin Concerto in sign at any show. There's also a good dollop dred exhibitions both at home and abroad. D Major and his Symphony No. 7 in A major. of humour. Check out David Lachapelle's After the fall of the Iron Curtain, he became The following day, an exhibition of manu- mischievous take on "The Last Judgement," a full-fledged professor at Krakow's Art Acad- scripts opens at the Jagiellonian Library. with its collapsing kebab shops and dogs surf- emy. This exhibition will be the largest yet when - 26th-27th March ing on Burger King signs. of his work, presenting some 400 paintings, where - Philharmonic Hall, when - Throughout March sculptures, photographs and sketches. ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 Sleepwalking through the Mekong, where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 when - 13th March until 7th June Music and World where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 Documentary Film Festival 10 - CityLife Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com

CULTURAL PARTNERS JACEK MALCZEWSKI (1854-1929) turned out to be the highlight of the com- It's 80 years since Jacek Malczewski poser's career. passed on but his place in the pantheon of when - From 13th - 15th March Polish art remains as assured as ever. Find where - Opera Krakowska, ul. Lubicz 48 out why at this anniversary exhibition, which will be showcasing some of his most ac- THE DEVILS OF LOUDUN claimed paintings. Malczewski's dreamy land- Widely regarded as Krzysztof Penderecki's scapes and portraits are as quintessentially finest opera, The Devils of Loudun originally Polish as Constable's canvases are English. premiered in 1969. Based on Aldous Huxley's This selective exhibition also includes the account of a notorious seventeenth century painter's staggering Melancholia, an explo- scandal, the libretto delves into power sive meditation on Poland's dismemberment. politics within the Catholic Church, with a when - 26th March until 24th May spicy brew of corrupt cardinals, hysterical where - Princes Czartoryski Museum nuns and the dastardly Beelzebub himself. (Arsenal), ul. Pijarska 8 Catch it on Saturday 21st or Sunday 22nd. when - From 21st March OPERA, THEATRE where - Opera Krakowska, ul. Lubicz 48 & DANCE FILM

GROTESKA: CHILDREN'S THEATRE & FILM: ANDRZEJ WAJDA FESTIVAL MORE Hot on the heels of the Polish director's Pinocchio, Puss In Boots (Kot w Butach) and triumph in Berlin, Kino ARS is hosting a retro- Yamadonga starring Tarak, Kino Pod Baranami The Ugly Duckling (Brzydkie Kaczatko) will spective of the great man's work. "Contem- all be popping up at Groteska this March. If porary Polish History in the Images of Andrzej when - 6th - 8th March you've got kids in tow, the master puppeteers Wajda" will take in some of the highlights where - Kino Pod Baranami, at Skarbowa Street are sure to deliver fan- of the film-maker's career. Besides recent Rynek Główny 27 tastic family entertainment. Have a browse works such as Katyń, viewers can expect his through their online programme for more Solidarity duo, Man of Marble and Man of 9TH WEEK OF SPANISH CINEMA info at www.groteska.pl Iron, amongst many others. Check the offi- There's much more to Spanish Cinema than when - Throughout March cial website for a full programme www.ars.pl the great Pedro Almodovar. And if you're where - Groteska, ul. Skarbowa 2 when - 6th until 26th March curious about finding out who's leading the where - Kino ARS, ul. św. Jana 6 pack in the land of Lorca, head on over to INTERNATIONAL IRISH DANCE Kino Pod Baranami, the Krakow host of this COMPETITION TOLLYWOOD MOVIES NIGHTS Poland-wide event. Included in the week- There's something delightfully surreal about You've heard of Bollywood, but it's not just long programme are award-winning cuts the prospect of an Irish Dance Competition Bombay that belts out Indian movies. Tol- from Gracia Querejeta (Siete Mesas De Billar in Nowa Huta. So if you want to enliven your lywood has two incarnations, one being films Frances) Roser Aguilar (Lo Mejor de Mi) and weekend with something more zippy than shot in Telugu (one of the four classical lan- Pere Portabella ( El Silencio Antes de Bach). a glass of Zywiec at the local, head over to guages of India), and the other those made For full listings, check the cinema's web the Huta for some righteous jiving, Irlandski in the movie district of Tollygunge, Calcutta. page. www.kinopodbaranami.pl style. Venerable judges Danny Doherty, Dancing and singing are still key, but echo- when - 22nd until 28th March Francis Curley and Mairin Ni Ruairc- ing different regional traditions. Kino Pod where - Kino Pod Baranami, Tuathaigh will be sorting the wheat from Baranami has three corkers lined up, so Rynek Główny 27 the chaff, whilst Seamus O'Sullivan fasten your seatbelts for Arjun, Chirutha provides musical accompaniment. and Yamadonga. when - 7th - 8th March where - Nowa Huta Cultural Centre, al. Jana Pawła 232

THE HAUNTED MANOR Poland's best-loved opera gets its first crack of the whip at the all new opera house on Lubicz. The Haunted Manor (Straszny Dwór) is a jaunty tale of pushy aunts attempting to matchmake for their nephews, the latter sworn to forsake girlies for the noble cause of fighting for Poland. Some uncanny ghosts are thrown in for good measure, and the classic Polish dances - mazurkas, polonaises, krakowiaks - are woven into the score. Originally premiered in 1865, Stanisław Moniuszko's masterpiece remains the perfect introduction to Polish opera. (Performances on 7th, 8th and 9th). when - From 7th March where - Opera Krakowska, ul. Lubicz 48

OPERA ON THE SILVER SCREEN Kino Kijów is transmitting performances from the marvellous Metropolitan Opera in New York. Catch Puccini's Madame Butterfly on the 17th and Bellini's The Sleepwalker on the 21st. when - 7th & 21st March where - Kino Kijów, al. Krasińskiego 34

RIGOLETTO Verdi's romp about a dastardly duke and his hunchbacked henchman gets a trio of performances this month. The idea of suggest- ing that a sovereign could be a shameless seducer was still rather daring in 1851, but Verdi managed to get away with it owing to a few subtle compromises. For many, Rigoletto Krzysztof Penderecki whose opera The Devils of Loudon plays at Opera Krakowska www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post MARCH 2009 CityLife - 11

CLASSICAL & WORLD MUSIC

NOVA CASA Settle in for an evening at the castle, where Nova Casa will be coasting through Han- del's cantatas. Anna Mikołajczyk steps up for some soprano shenanigans. Tickets 40 złoty. when - 4th March where - Royal Castle, Wawel

NIGEL KENNEDY PLAYS HENDRIX See Spotlight, page CL8. when - 10th March where - Philharmonic Hall, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1

UNIVERSITY CONCERT An evening of chamber music in the splendid hall of the Collegium Novum, introduced by eminent historian Professor Jacek Purch- la. Urszula Kryger sings mezzosoprano with piano and cello accompaniment. Tickets First Step..., National Museum of Krakow 12/20 złoty. when - 18th March when - 24th March where - Collegium Novum, ul.Gołebia 24 where - Philharmonic Hall, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 THE KLEZZMATES Catch one of Krakow's best up and coming OPEN MIC AT CAFE SZAFE Klezmer bands at the the Galicia Museum. The Open Mic Night is a monthly event at The Klezzmates' fresh style mixes folk, which performers can get on stage and jazz and ethnic grooves with traditional share their music. All musicians of all levels Jewish rhythms. Starts 7 pm, tickets 12/ 20 and attitudes are welcome. Cafe Szafe złoty. If you're free at 5, you can also hear (located one block from Massolit Books) special guest Rabbi Tanya Segal give a provides a cosy stage, a full PA system, and talk about Jewish Mysticism. good beer, every first Sunday of the month. A when - 18th March good time is guaranteed, whether you come where - Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18 to play or just to listen. From 7 to 10 pm. when - 1st March THE PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA where - Cafe Szafe, ul. Felicjanek 10 Guest conductor Jean-Luc Tingaud con- jures a taste of things to come with Stavin- sky's The Rite of Spring and Debussy's Ronde de Printemps . Performed both Friday and Saturday with tickets at 25 złoty. when - 20th - 21st March where - Philharmonic Hall, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1

THE SCOTTISH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA One of Europe's finest ensembles hooks up with celebrated pianist Piotr Andersze- Dub Echoes, Isabella Hollauf, Bunkier Sztuki wski. Mozart and Bach dominate the Music and World programme. Tickets 80-100 złoty. Documentary Film Festival

Guilt and Punishment, International Cultural Centre, Rynek Główny 12 - CityLife Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Club Life www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post MARCH 2009 CityLife - 13 Interview Here Comes the Bride

An interview with photographer Katarzyna Majak

Anna Spysz

atarzyna Majak, a graduate of the KM: It's a theme I've been working on for quite a Poznań Academy of Fine Arts, is as much while now, but I've never really showed it except rooted in the photographic traditions of 2 pieces exhibited by Zderzak at ART FORUM Ber- America (where she studied with such lin 2008. It's the story of a very special wedding Kgreats as Edward Weston’s grandson, Kim, in dress. I received it as a gift "for luck." I was sup- California, as well as John Sexton in Colorado) as posed to get married but I didn't, so I decided in more Polish influences. Her latest exhibition to do something with it and it evolved into this brings her work to Krakow, in a show centring whole series of different pieces in different me- around a “cursed” wedding dress. The Krakow dia. So this will be the first show in Poland of Post’s Anna Spysz sat down with Mayak in late this series. January, as she was preparing her exhibition. KP: So why did you choose Krakow for this, as Krakow Post: Your newest exhibition is open- you're from Warsaw? ing in March. KM: I guess I didn't really choose Krakow, Krakow Katarzyna Majak: Yes, on the 6th of March is the chose me [laughs]. And this is a very good gallery opening, and then on the 8th we are planning and a very renowned one, so I felt the project to do something in town, some kind of perfor- itself is worth showing in a good place. And the mance. We don't know yet exactly what it will owner [of Zderzak] liked it. be like. I hope to bring Mateusz Iwulski - a butoh dancer and a dear friend of mine, now based in KP: Will it also be shown in other Polish cities? Berlin, to Galeria Krakowska to perform in the KM: It will. I got an invitation from Poznań, Dress. where there is a photo biennial - the only photo biennial in Poland - and I will probably be a part KP: Have you got anything special planned for of that in May. And then I also got an invitation the opening? from a curator to be part of a bigger show about KM: There will be some music which was com- clothing and the various meanings of clothing posed by Marcin Bociński, another friend of on people, especially on women, and it will be mine, especially for this exhibition, based on shown in several art centres in Poland. Mendelssohn’s Wedding March. This piece is from the album by Majak & the Unmarried, where my KP: Your work has also been exhibited in the three unmarried friends and I sing music asso- U.S. in the past. ciated with weddings. Marcin composed two KM: Yes, I was there a few times, and I was pieces for this album and produced it. We will also there as a curator, when I curated a show play it at the entrance to welcome the gallery on young Polish photography. It featured three Most - Bridge guests and create a kind of ‘introduction’ to the young photographers and I had a show myself exhibition. Then when people come in they will as well, because I was there not just as a cura- painting. So if you do photography, you have to Katarzyna Majak’s exhibition, titled “Desire,” see the photographs and the video. So it will be tor but also as an artist in residence. My work work harder. But this is changing, and I'm very will open on the 6th of March at 6 pm in Galeria music, video, photographs, and performance. was also shown in New Orleans as part of a show happy that it's in the process of changing. Pho- Zderzak (ul. Floriańska 3), and will run through called "Odd Works" last year. tography has now become much more sellable the 18th of April. In addition, on March 8th, also KP: Are these new photographs, or more of a - people treat it more and more as an object of known as International Women’s Day, a perfor- collection of your previous work? KP: Do you feel that the reception of your work art rather than a reproduction that can be multi- mance of butoh by dancer Mateusz Iwulski will has been greater in the States than in Poland? plied (so they might think it's worth nothing be- take place in correlation with the exhibition at KM: I have a few collectors in the States. I started cause it's copyable). When you have a painting, 4:30 pm in Galeria Krakowska. in the States, rather than here. I don't know how it is the original and there's only one, but that is it works, but there is something in those pieces the nature of this medium. But, the situation is More information available at www.zderzak.pl that they find special - I don't know what this is, getting better and better for photography here, and www.majak-desire.pl. but I've had a positive response from them. which is great.

KP: That's an interesting point, because it seems that a lot of Polish artists must first find a following or become known outside of Poland before they are acknowledged in their own country. KM: This is quite an interesting thing. I think it's because when you are there, you need to be active - more active. Here the art world is much smaller, but there you need to go out and be active yourself and meet curators and so on. Maybe that's the thing. If I imagine I go to France, for example, I don't know anybody, so I have to promote myself.

KP: What do you think about the art scene in Poland then - is it supportive of young or lesser known artists? KM: It depends on who you know and who you meet and what you do. Poland is much more about painting than photography, and the culture of painting is very deeply rooted here. Pho- tography has to make its own way, and this is the beginning of that. All over the world photography is number one, but here it still seems to be Huśtawka - Swing Kamień - Stone 14 - CityLife Krakow Post MARCH 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Reviews

FILM FLASHBACK SONIC RELEASE

Retrieval (Z Odzysku) Years of Refusal Poland 2006, directed by Sławomir Fabicki Morrissey (Decca/Lost Highway 2009) Sławomir Fabicki graduated from the National Polish Film School in Łódź. He makes films in the vein of serious Polish Cinema by way of drama, a Polish genre of choice. And he does drama well. His diploma film,Męska Sprawa (A Man Thing) was nominated for an Academy Award for Live Action Short Film in 2001. His next film and first feature,Z Odzysku (Re- trieval - 2006), gained similar attention and may have similar results. Fabicki might just be one of Poland's next great filmmakers.

Fabicki could be considered the next Kieślowski - albeit modern. The issues are the same: human loss, waning morality, and the grey between Morrissey is one of those characters that inspires obsession. good and bad. Fabicki approaches these matters without high-handed moralising or pretence. He balances things out and shows how good can His fans are notoriously devoted, eternally engrossed in dissecting lyrics and analysing media-fuelled come from a bad choice and bad can come from a good one. He shows rumours. They have raised the man to a god-like status. Himself an enthusiastic music writer and fan realistic characters living in realistic environments making epic deci- until his rise to stardom with 80s band The Smiths, Morrissey seems to inherently know how to handle sions. And he does this convincingly, as Kieślowski did. Fabicki is modern his enigmatic aura while perpetually leaving fans yearning for more. As a vocalist, his nebulous lyrics however, because he shows these issues in today's world using today's have over the years given us glimpses of, what we at least believe to be, his inner-most being and as filmic conventions. Gritty themes such as unemployment, immigration, it's turned out, it's quite a fascinating one. Throughout his career Morrissey has embroiled himself in and drugs are handled with long, documentary style hand-held shots, controversies and has never shied away from speaking his mind on political and personal matters, not hard cutting, and parallel scenes. to mention the fact that through most of his life he claimed to be asexual (presumably much to the dismay of his rabid fans).

Unsurprisingly then, post-Smiths, Morrissey's verbosity became the sole centre of attention, and sud- denly the lack of guitarist Johnny Marr became painfully obvious. It seemed that the fans of the music itself began to drop, one by one, while those who loved Morrissey the man and the poet have become increasingly more devoted. Unfortunately I am certainly of the former, but with Morrissey's newest release, Years of Refusal, earning heaps of praise from all corners of the musical media and blogosphere I thought it was time to listen to the devotees for a change.

Straight off the bat is "Something is Squeezing my Skull," reminding us that Morrissey has definitely not forgotten how to rock. In fact, the entire album, save one or two moments, is a surprisingly upbeat af- fair, considering Morrissey's usual penchant for the morose. The album's power chords and melodic pop won't be breaking any musical ground but the tracks are solid and most importantly, Morrissey is given the space that he needs to fully flex his lyrical prowess. Thankfully there are no gaping holes or filler tracks in Years of Refusal, which delivers head bopping material throughout. A quiet moment in the album comes in the form of the lush "You Were Good In Your Time," describing an idol who comforts his fans through his music (sound familiar?) as French language samples float in the background. With such lyrics as "An end of the ride sigh/your soft smile says:/please understand, I must surrender," it doesn't take a genius to understand why fans have felt a real aura of finality from this album. Rumours sparked, as they tend to do with Morrissey's fans, proposing that this will be his final album - a claim which he has, so far at least, denied.

This album may not have been the musically innovative gem some were hoping for, but in the end it's Morrissey, the soaring and insightful vocalist that we all want, and there's certainly no denying that Years of Refusal delivers. Dana Dramowicz Wojciech Zieliński and Antoni Pawlicki in Retrieval / courtesy www.filmweb.pl Retrieval is about a young man named Wojtek who wants to provide his Ukrainian girlfriend and her child with a financially comfortable life. But he reaches these ends by means that result in him losing everything. His morality sways in his attempts to make real his envisioned ideals as SHELF IMPROVEMENT they diminish in the name of materialism. He wants to give her simple things: a house, money. But she wants to reach this level of comfort by The Zakopane Style of Stanisław Witkiewicz by Teresa Jabłońska way of hard and honest work. Still, she does work in a strip club, though A Tribute to a True Hero she is only a janitor there. And yet in order to avoid such dishonest circumstances, which Wojtek has gotten everyone into, she is willing to give her body to a hustler. No one is perfect. "Alas, some of the old picturesqueness is going," wrote an English lady about Zakopane in 1933. Luck- ily, she was spared the shock of seeing the Highland town today, with its crude over-development and We can look at Retrieval like this: the hustler is the realist. He finds fairground razzle-dazzle. But if anyone has the right to feel furious about the fate of Zakopane, then financial security and safety for his family by manipulating others to do it's Stanisław Witkiewicz (1851-1915), creator of the so-called Zakopane Style. If Witkiewicz had gotten his dirty work while he reaps the material rewards. Unlike Wojtek, he is his way, Poland would have been studded with a new - or rather ancient - style of architecture based willing to get what he wants at all costs, with no doubts or restraints. on Highland traditions. The Romantic wizard believed that Zakopane held the key to an authentic Pol- The hustler has no limits to his immorality – he is the modern man. ish idiom. And although he was only trained as a painter, Witkiewicz was such a force of nature that he Fabicki professes that the moral man will have it harder and will have actually got quite far in creating his vision, as this lavish album shows. "All the designs, drawings and to teeter between the means to a comfortable life and what is moral. plans he made free of charge," his sister recalled. "He even supervised, in person, the construction of He may fail at first by losing everything, as does Wojtek, but he will houses. When the people for whom he worked asked him to accept remuneration, as was regular in such continue because he knows what he wants - it's just a matter of finding circumstances, he would say: 'One does not pay prophets, and I am the prophet of the Zakopane Style.'" the means to get there. Being good is not easy and being good and living Examples of the movement may be scarce outside the highlands, but what magnificent buildings they comfortably is even harder. were. Like the English Arts and Crafts guru William Morris, Witkiewicz believed in a style that was co- herent both inside and out, even designing coffee jugs and curtains in the Highland manner. The plates We see Fabicki doing what Kieslowski did. And like Kieślowski, Fabicki, in this book are a wonderful testament to his vision, and Teresa Jabłońska's texts provide intriguing despite the seemingly never ending trouble his characters face, shows background. Poor Witkiewicz is probably spinning in his Zakopane grave at the look of the town today. hope in the end. Wojtek, beaten and battered by circumstance, strug- The only small compensation is that his own place of rest is one of the few corners of Zakopane that has gles to move forward, repent, and try again. Fabicki handles all of this been spared the hideous mongrelisation that has dogged the town in recent years. with honesty, simplicity and taste. Mathew Szymanowski Nick Hodge www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post MARCH 2009 CityLife - 15 Last Page

ASTRO SELTZER SUDOKU

PISCES (Feb 19 – March 19) People appear to be insensitive and unsympathetic. The truth is that you've To play: Complete the grid so that every become hyper-attuned to other people's moods, to the point that your thoughts and row, column and every 3 x 3 box contains the feelings are probably not your own anymore. If anyone needs a break from the heav- digits 1 to 9. There is no guessing or maths ing, sweating masses, it's you. Escaping into literature, art or the gym could be just involved, just use logic to solve. what the doctor ordered. Your dream jobs: dancer, financial analyst.

ARIES (Mar 20 - Apr 19) LEO (Jul 23 - Aug 22) SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22 - Dec 20) A dreary old problem will be It's time to go back to scratch, The truth may hurt a bit, but resolved when you finally to check contracts and cast a that's all about making you explode. Trying to keep peace sharp-as-nails glance at the fine stronger and more determined. has been tough, and you're print. Returning to square one, If you've been letting goals slip certainly not very adept at you will insist on hammering out a more eq- away from your field of vision, biting your tongue. On a positive note, this uitable agreement - at work and at home. The events will force you to find spontaneous clearing of the air will force you – ultimate realist, you don't see any difference the backbone to restore your recently foggy and everyone else - to sit down and locate the between a romantic association and a business vision. This month's theme has to be "clarity origin of your overwhelming frustration. Your one. Your dream jobs: monarch, film star. at all costs." Your dream jobs: opera singer, dream jobs: epic poet, circus anthropologist performer. VIRGO (Aug 23 - Sep 22) Having decided that your super CAPRICORN (Dec 21 - Jan 19) TAURUS (Apr 20 - May 20) fastidious routine isn't really You get what you want because You've chosen to do the most doing very much for you, you you never shy away from sensible thing in the face surprise everyone by being sud- reminding people of how of financial adversity. Refusing to sink, and denly, messily emotive. Feeling valuable you are. This month, definitely not in the mood for swimming, you've that you've come to a now-or-never point in however, your game is a little decided to do the brave thing: you're about to your life, you've become slightly contrary and off and you're uncharacteristi- reinvent not only the way you do things, but argumentative, simply not caring about the cally plagued by indecision and the things that you do! You're about to discover consequences. You're on the verge of accom- a dose of confusion. Your usual gutsiness will re- that the most effective way to deal with old plishing something fascinating that could bring turn as you realise that everyone is preoccupied problems is to look at them through a new lens. you to an interesting place in your life. Your and that the world hasn't forgotten you. Your Your dream jobs: philosopher, wine-taster. dream jobs: nutritionist, performance artist. dream job: entrepreneur, children's writer

GEMINI (May 21 - Jun 20) LIBRA (Sep 23 - Oct 22) AQUARIUS (Jan 20 - Feb 18) It takes you an awfully long You love the idea of being Boredom and lethargy scare time to hit emotional rock bot- naughty more than the actual you. In your book, people tom. But, when you do, there's activity itself. This month, you who need external events to simply no turning back and may start to see what it is that keep them excited are weak, no room for woeful processing of feelings and turns people into dependent selfish and not very bright. thoughts. This month, you will become brutally love-bunnies. Someone could be But, if you're truthful with yourself, you'll admit honest with yourself when you're victimised by about to turn your idea of relationships on its that life has been a bit of a grind the last few yet more moaning, whining weaklings. = You head, causing you to fall for an actual flesh– weeks. All you have to do to change that is snap could be out of wherever you are in a flash. and-blood creature – rather than merely the your fingers and welcome anything or anyone Your dream jobs: satirist, children's rights idea of one. Your dream jobs: guru, astronaut into your life that veers away from the status activist. quo. Your dream jobs: hypnotist, inventor SCORPIO (Oct 23 - Nov 21) CANCER (Jun 21 – Jul 22) Facing a few basic facts needn't You want answers to questions that be a nightmare. Sleepless Krakow Post’s astrology column is for enter- you can't even ask. Your usual state nights and dark circles under tainment purposes only, and the Post is not of repressed anxiety is heightened, your eyes betray inner concerns responsible for any consequences incurred as a this month, by the strange behaviour of those that must be voiced. And, this month, when a result of this column. around you. There's no conspiracy afoot. People concerned pal insists on knowing what's going Written by Kerwin McLeister, are distracted and are waiting for you to tell on inside your morbidly private head, don't [email protected] them what to do. Tough job, isn't it? However, freeze up. Talking about your personal bogey- if anyone can do it, you can. Your dream jobs: men will help banish them to oblivion. Your enlightened despot, stand-up comic. dream jobs: army general, novelist Star-Signs drawn by Dominik Nawrocki

TRIPS OFF THE TONGUE

Grażyna Zawada sudoku solutions

Is Polish really that difficult? Or is that just a myth, an over-used excuse touted by lazy language students? Krakow Post introduces a series of brief lessons, which should prove useful when learning this beautiful language, as prepared by a native Polish linguist and teacher. As International Women’s Day nears, the Krakow to drink coffee with), and if the pest insists that HE: Nie sądzisz, że to przeznaczenie zetknęło nas Post has some advice for women who would like a relationship you’re in is not a problem for him ze sobą? SHE: Nie, to był zwykły pech! to brush off pests of the barfly variety. Apart from say ‘OK, w takim razie możemy spotkać sie we (Don’t you think it was destiny that united us? / a simple, everlasting ‘Nie, dziekuje’ (No, thanks) trójkę, tylko nie ręczę wtedy za mojego faceta’ No, just ordinary bad luck!) other subtle refusals of coffee invitations could (Ok, we can meet in a trio, but I’m not answer- HE: Kocham cię...... SHE: Ja siebie też.... be: ‘Przykro mi, ale nie mam ochoty na spotkania’ able for my man’s reactions). Below is a brief list (I love you... / I love me too...) (I’m sorry, I don’t feel like meeting anybody), ‘Nie of cliches and suitable answers: HE: Wiem jak sprawić przyjemność kobiecie SHE: umawiam się z nieznajomymi’ (I don’t meet with Więc zrób mi tę przyjemność i spadaj stąd! strangers) and ‘Nie jestes w moim typie’ (You’re HE: W którą idziesz stronę? SHE - W przeciwną! (I know how to please a woman / So please me by not my type). To enhance the message add ‘Pro- (Which way are you going? / The opposite way!) getting out of here!) sze zrozum to, bo więcej razy tłumaczyć Ci nie HE: Dla ciebie poszedłbym na koniec świata! SHE: HE: Gdzie byłaś przez całe moje życie? SHE: będę’ (Please understand this, I won’t repeat). A zostałbyś tam? Chowałam się przed Tobą. As for witty remarks, you could say ‘Dziekuje, ale (I would go around the world for you / And would (Where have you been my whole life? / I was hid- mam z kim pić kawe’ (Thanks, I have someone you stay there?) ing from you.) write here! write now!

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