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Famagusta (Gazimağusa) & the

Includes  Why Go? The thin finger of the Karpas Peninsula (Karpasia in Greek; (Gazimağusa)...... 207 Karpaz in Turkish) is all rolling meadows, craggy cliffs and Ancient Salamis...... 217 wild beaches with a handful of snoozy villages thrown in. Karpas Peninsula...... 221 It’s a taste of old-style that can’t be beaten. Despite Yenierenköy new roads and development, its agrarian soul still feels un- (Yiallousa)...... 223 touched by modern life. Sipahi (Agia Triada).... 223 When you’ve recharged your batteries with the Karpas’ serene wilderness, turn back west to visit Ancient Salamis. Dipkarpaz This enigmatic window into the Hellenic world is the is- ()...... 224 land’s most impressive archaeological site. Agios Filon Just to the south is the fortified city of Famagusta where & Afendrika...... 224 you can climb the ramparts to walk the city walls. The city’s faded long-lost grandeur can be found in lanes filled with gently dilapidated houses that sit beside crumbling ruins of once-majestic churches. Best Places Brimming with history and full of mesmerising natural to Eat beauty, this is by far the island’s most rewarding region to ¨¨’s Meyhanesi (p215) explore. ¨¨Alevkayalı Restaurant (p223) When to Go ¨¨Kiyi (p220) ¨¨Wild orchids and flowers bloom on the Karpas Peninsula ¨¨Oasis Restaurant (p224) and bird life can be spotted from March to May. ¨¨Aspava Restaurant (p215) ¨¨The International Famagusta Art & Culture Festival in July features performances amid the ruins of Salamis. ¨¨Green and loggerhead turtles nest and hatch eggs on Best Reminders Karpas’ wild beaches in August and September. of Old Cyprus ¨¨Ancient Salamis (p217) ¨¨Petek Confectioner (p214) ¨¨Kantara Castle (p222) ¨¨Monastery of Apostolos Andreas (p222) 207 Famagusta ( G(Gazimağusa)azimağusa) & the& the Karpas Karpas P Peninsulaeninsula Peninsula Fam agSightustas (Gazimağusa) ------MOSQUE outside h

Erenler Sokak; Erenler

The of Agios former Cathedral Sights eclecticchapel ru mix of arched lanes, Lala Mustafa Paşa Camii Paşa Lala Mustafa The again in the early region flourished army by the Turkish invasion The island’s Although the town was recaptured by the town was recaptured by Although the rotted Famagusta the Ottomans, Under The great city’s first decline began when decline first The city’s great ter part of a day to see the city properly. ter part to see the city of a day o (St Nicholas Cathedral; ticularly Varosia, into the restricted border ticularly Varosia, zone. Deserted in by its Greek population of the fast-approaching Turk anticipation remains part of the Varosia ish military, zone and is now a uninhabited buffer large, with its gaping darkghost town. Haunting, blocks, andwindows and abandoned tower itwire, barbed and drums oil by barricaded fewfor a military save 1974, as it was in is outposts patrols. and occasional UN 1 The Byzantine and Knights baths, ins, Turkish medieval churches, and quarters Templar on foot. Allow the betare best appreciated ic time warp. The Old Town, Kaleici, became Kaleici, The warp. time ic Town, Old Cypriot stronghold. a Turkish 1960s. The Greek renowned, predominantly Cypriot resort district of Varosia justOldthe of side southern the outside (Maraş), walls, bloomed as the Mediterra Town’s destination, holiday new favourite nean’s annually pulling thousands of sun-seeking tourists to its stunning beaches. However, more skir communal conflicts in 1964 saw es mishes in the area, resulting in the Turks within thesentially barricading themselves left walls and exiling any Old Town’s of Varosia. to the confines more par and forced Famagusta, in 1974 tury, prompting an prompting an of its wealthiest tury, and most illustrious citizens. its former fortune later, years 117 Venetians never decadence and returned.really Dur walls and bastions the huge ing this time constructed,were measurethis belated but to prevent its capture by the Otto did little mans in 1571. bloody 10-month the In siege 100,000 cannon ensued, an estimated that fired. balls were were ruined buildings Its a bad tooth. like it in an almost Gothnever leaving repaired, Nikolaos (St Nicholas) is the finest example Nicholas) is the finest of (St Nikolaos prayer prayer times) who criticised what they loose the what criticised who were felt counteract a this, To its citizens. of morals built. quickly were of churches number great the Genoese in the 14thtook control cen ------surroundings have an af and its surroundings have and the illustrious kingdom of Salamis, and the illustrious kingdom At this point, Christians fleeing the Holy AfterSalamis was abandoned in AD 648, Founded by Ptolemy Philadelphus of Ptolemy by Founded Long into down-at-heel since slumped FAMAGUSTA FAMAGUSTA POP 40,920 al courts. scorn from the pious, This provoked Famagusta’s population greatly increased, greatly population Famagusta’s didn’t truly bloom until the fallbut the city of Acre in 1291. 13th the late In Land took refuge in the city. shipping main centuryregion’s it became the almost gaining immense wealth stopover, and decadent lifestyle A lavish overnight. said were bloomed and more jewels and gold roy than in all of Europe’s to be in Famagusta maid to the famous city kingdom of Salamis, kingdom maid to the famous city just to its north. ments over the ages: the city of city Age Bronze the ages: the over ments (Alasia), which existedAncient dur ing the 17th set century BC; the Mycenaean tlement and tombs from the 9th century BC, described as a flourishing culture in Homer’s Iliad; Famagusta Famagusta The wide sweep fluent and complex history. Me and the sprawling Bay of Famagusta settle major three to home was plain saoria which prospered through the 6th century BC. Egypt in the 3rd century BC, Famagusta was originally known by its Greek name, Ammochostos, meaning ‘buried in the sand’. brides it was considered the years many For houses, finally allowing travellers a chance allowing travellers houses, finally itself. city to sleep within the walled History pices of the Technical Committee on Cultur Committee of the Technical pices Nations the EU and the United al Heritage, This spruce upDevelopment Programme. of a clutch of guesthas led to the opening dearingly shambolic. For years tourist infra years dearingly shambolic. For structure remained poor and most travellers €3 over Recently trips. day on visited only million in funding to preserveand the walls in under the aus monuments has flooded dilapidation, the area within the walls is en dilapidation, ly give way to ruined Gothic to ruined churches where way ly give scraps roofless arches and birds nest between cling to stoneof faded frescos From walls. shards walls, the shattered the Venetian atop churches punctuate theof these once-grand city. was Cyprus’ most lavish what of skyline Famagusta The of Famagusta walled city (Gazimağusa) lanes Winding for exploration. was made rows of houses sudden terrace rimmed with (GAZIMAĞUSA)