Beyond Baroque the Renaissance of Apulian Rosé Travel Guide
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TRAVEL & LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE SS 2019 Issue 1 www.via-magazine.com The eco-chic Excursionist TREK, CYCLE, SNORKEL, MEDitate & DINE UNDER THE stars Beyond Baroque IN THE Heart OF LECCE’S ARCHITECTURAL MARVELS The renaissance of Apulian rosé THE GOLDEN AGE OF PUGLIA’S PINK HARVEST Travel Guide THE BEST OF PUGLIA IN YOUR POCKET Performance on a grand scale The Sunseeker 86 Yacht SUNSEEKER ITALY S.R.L. Porto Turistico 52, 16033 Lavagna (GE), Italy Tel: +39 0185 30 53 17 Mob: +39 366 144 0325 Email: [email protected] www.sunseeker-italy.com Italy SEEK MORE Sunseeker 86Y - Italy - VIA - 350x235_DPS.indd 1 25/04/2019 10:03 EDITOR’S CONTRIBUTORS LETTER ear Reader, Sir Robert Arnold Pugin and has traveled to remote corners Welcome to Puglia! Drystone architecture is the human of the globe and writes for Suitcase, Perhaps it’s your first time in the southern tip of skill path that connects designer Vogue, Artforum, Conde Nast Trave- Italy and you’re not sure what to expect; perhaps and writer Robert Pugin to his great ler and National Geographic Travel- Dyou’re a returning visitor or occasional resident of the region. lers, among others. grandfather’s iconic tower the ‘Big Either way, in the land of Puglia you will discover that the excellence Ben’. Ancient dry stone structures and métiers for which Italy is celebrated originates are found throughout Europe from Inbal Sinai here, in between the ancient olive groves, the delicacies baking in Puglia to Scotland yet for Robert, Writer, curator, and producer of art a family kitchen, the artisan studios of sleepy towns, and the rolling they are a symbol that stone crafts and design projects, Inbal lived in green hills where vineyards are woven to the earth. are lasting; as for technology, he re- Milan for eight years and worked in It is an authentic land down to the last grain, it is beautiful and rustic mains unconvinced. He is a poet at the advertising sector until her return with an almost accidental elegance that fills you with wonder. Not heart and a master in the use of the to Tel Aviv in 2017. After graduating surprisingly, many visitors have remained so enchanted their second English language. from Bocconi University in Milan with visit concluded with the purchase of a home of their own. a master’s degree in Management The magazine in your hand is the result of a year’s worth of first- Christian Koch and Economics for Arts, Culture, hand trips, encounters and experiences across Puglia. Most times Christian Koch is a journalist and edi- Media and Entertainment, she now the journeys entailed hopping on trains with just a small trolley, while tor who has written for the Evening specializes in cultural marketing and other times required smart planning and pre-shipped luggage (thanks Standard, Sunday Times, Guardian, consulting for communication stra- to Luggage Forward), a service that I can highly recommend as the Telegraph, The Independent, The tegies that combine art and culture. real hands-free way to travel in modern times. Face, Cosmopolitan, and a phalanx One can say that her first gallery Have a drink (may I suggest a caffé Leccese?), prop yourself in a of inflight magazines covering reports opening is her apartment in Tel Aviv, comfortable corner and browse this issue at your leisure. Our feature on living on an Italian commune, ga- featured in Time Out Tel Aviv. stories showcase a host of champions in the arts, design, agriculture tecrashing the Cannes film festival, and hospitality sectors, and the travel guide offers a handpicked se- and circumnavigating 360° around Antonio Chiaese lection of things to do, places to dine, drink and dream, followed by the world in 360 hours. He has in- Antonio Chiaese is an Italian writer a calendar of seasonal events. It is a delight and privilege to be able terviewed everybody from Mariah and public historian currently based to share them with you, and I hope that you will find this issue helpful Carey to Michael Douglas, and Ri- in Vilnius, Lithuania, where he co- and inspiring during your stay in the land of Puglia. chard Branson to the Red Hot Chili operates with several groups and Peppers. associations active in the social and I’d love to hear about your experience. cultural fields. He loves learning new E-mail me at: [email protected] Himali Singh Soin languages, visiting new cities, tasting Himali Singh Soin is a writer and arti- new food and drinks - experiences Yours, st based between London and Delhi. that nourish his writings, together Eleonora Her work is inspired by fantastical with the colors and flavors of his be- literature, the deep sea, outer space loved Southern Italy. and botanical gardens. She has per- formed her poetry across the world in immersive, audio visual environments 4 5 Contents 8 22 Travel Arts & Culture Lost in the Woodlands of Puglia Beyond Baroque VIA explores the hidden paths in the fairytale woodlands of A tour of Lecce reveals a palpable sense of spirituality Puglia, dotted with historic towns and countryside hospitality beneath its architectural marvels 12 26 Experiences Sports Days of Aquamarine The Eco-Chic Excursionist In Puglia, breathtaking blues coalesce with Unique experiences where you can trek, vintage whites, where you can retreat cycle, snorkel, meditate, fly and then dine between land and sea under the stars 30 14 Design Present Imperfect Jewelry Artist Delphine Bekaert talks to VIA about her journey Pearl of the South from Belgium’s contemporary art scene to haute ceramic A jewelry collection of simplistic luxury; design in Puglia sourced fresh out of the water, woven from the earth and handmade in Bari 34 Architecture Solid as a Rock 16 Ostuni-based stone expert TWS has developed new techniques to restore historic masserie and create new use Health & for stone Wellness A League of His Own 36 How one local entrepreneur is distilling wholesome nutrients Lifestyle from ancient olive trees into a People of Puglia revolutionary bite-sized packet The stories, ideas and innovations by the people of Puglia, from small town to the big city 19 Wine 41 The Renaissance Travel Guide of Apulian Rosé From Trani to Lecce and across the heel to It’s the “golden age” for Puglia’s Ugento and Gallipoli, VIA highlights its best pink harvest, thanks to top-ranking addresses vineyards and increasing global recognition 70 Culture Calendar A guide to arts and culture events across Puglia, from May to October 6 TRAVEL TRAVEL Lost in the Hiking the Daunian Mountains in Puglia. Woodlands SPECIAL EDITORIAL of Puglia VIA explores the hidden paths in the fairytale woodlands of Puglia, dotted with historic towns and countryside hospitality rcheotrekking is a new kind and over. You can start from the of experience in Italy that fo- north at Lucera or from Roccetta Acuses on combining cultural Sant’Antonio in the south. development and environmental tourism as a way to explore cultural In the north end of Puglia, treasures and engage with regional from Gargano to the Daunian crafts and traditions in a territory. Mountains, trekkers will enjoy a The outdoor cultural sports activity cross-town archeotrek that passes is based on walking itineraries with through woodland and villages organized paths, ranging levels of that were home to pre-historic curiosity and overnight stays. civilizations. The people who inhabit the mountain range have with whom locals share stories, with the aid of public transport. at the heart is the Terra Vecchia Woodland and a botanical garden. The suggested itineraries are suita- a natural disposition to hospitality travel suggestions and ‘slow quarter that merits a visit. Puglia’s From the early morning, local de- ble for solo travelers, families and and service. Travelers here are not cooking’ recipes. The route covers the towns of highest peak is at Cornacchia licacies brew in the air, enveloping small groups with children ages 12 mere passersby; they are guests Bovino (home to a beautiful Mountain, rising 1,152 meters you at every corner, making this The Monti Dauni (Daunian Basilica and site engravings from above sea level. The Frassati Trail town an ideal stop for pleasantries Mountains) is a series of three 3 B.C.), Ascoli Satriano (with located here is perfect for Nordic and culinary engagement. breathtaking mountains where mosaics from the first century walking with a three-day trek and oak forests and maple-covered and relics of the Daunians’ lavish overnight stays. Find a spot at On the way are particular points rolling hills dominate the landsca- life) and the medieval town of Cerasa Woods to inhale the fresh of interest, including visits to the pe. Named after the goddess Pietramontecorvino, one of the air and enjoy a rest. authentic mozzarella farms, fruit Diana, the woods exude a certain most beautiful in Italy. The town picking from the orchards, and wisdom, having survived millennia is surrounded by wild forests After crossing the mountains, a cooking class where amid the of historic events and conquests, with paths suspended among from the charming town of Faeto, scent of freshly picked wild herbs while each twist of the river greets the trees (Pila di Sant’Onofrio) you can enjoy a scenic view you can enjoy a lunch made with travelers with legends and stories. and Tibetan bridges at Parco over the entire landscape. Faeto your very own hands and infused Experienced hikers can journey Avventura. Built on the foot of town is composed of entangled, with flavor that suits your palate. by foot with overnight stops, whi- Monti Dauni, the town overlooks cobblestone alleyways with be- The banquet style cooking you le other travelers can combine the a magical landscape seen only autiful overhead arches while just will often come across comprises View from Sant’Agata di Puglia and the Daunian Mountains.