TRAVEL & LIFESTYLE magazine SS 2019 Issue 1

www.via-magazine.com The eco-chic Excursionist trek, cycle, snorkel, meditate & dine under the stars Beyond Baroque in the heart of ’s architectural marvels

The renaissance of Apulian rosé the golden age of puglia’s pink harvest Travel Guide the best of puglia in your pocket Performance on a grand scale The Sunseeker 86 Yacht

SUNSEEKER S.R.L. Porto Turistico 52, 16033 Lavagna (GE), Italy Tel: +39 0185 30 53 17 Mob: +39 366 144 0325 Email: [email protected] www.sunseeker-italy.com Italy

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Sunseeker 86Y - Italy - VIA - 350x235_DPS.indd 1 25/04/2019 10:03 EDITOR’S CONTRIBUTORS LETTER

ear Reader, Sir Robert Arnold Pugin and has traveled to remote corners Welcome to Puglia! Drystone architecture is the human of the globe and writes for Suitcase, Perhaps it’s your first time in the southern tip of skill path that connects designer Vogue, Artforum, Conde Nast Trave- Italy and you’re not sure what to expect; perhaps and writer Robert Pugin to his great ler and National Geographic Travel- you’reD a returning visitor or occasional resident of the region. lers, among others. grandfather’s iconic tower the ‘Big Either way, in the land of Puglia you will discover that the excellence Ben’. Ancient dry stone structures and métiers for which Italy is celebrated originates are found throughout Europe from Inbal Sinai here, in between the ancient groves, the delicacies baking in Puglia to Scotland yet for Robert, Writer, curator, and producer of art a family kitchen, the artisan studios of sleepy towns, and the rolling they are a symbol that stone crafts and design projects, Inbal lived in green hills where vineyards are woven to the earth. are lasting; as for technology, he re- for eight years and worked in It is an authentic land down to the last grain, it is beautiful and rustic mains unconvinced. He is a poet at the advertising sector until her return with an almost accidental elegance that fills you with wonder. Not heart and a master in the use of the to Tel Aviv in 2017. After graduating surprisingly, many visitors have remained so enchanted their second English language. from Bocconi University in Milan with visit concluded with the purchase of a home of their own. a master’s degree in Management The magazine in your hand is the result of a year’s worth of first- Christian Koch and Economics for Arts, Culture, hand trips, encounters and experiences across Puglia. Most times Christian Koch is a journalist and edi- Media and Entertainment, she now the journeys entailed hopping on trains with just a small trolley, while tor who has written for the Evening specializes in cultural marketing and other times required smart planning and pre-shipped luggage (thanks Standard, Sunday Times, Guardian, consulting for communication stra- to Luggage Forward), a service that I can highly recommend as the Telegraph, The Independent, The tegies that combine art and culture. real hands-free way to travel in modern times. Face, Cosmopolitan, and a phalanx One can say that her first gallery Have a drink (may I suggest a caffé Leccese?), prop yourself in a of inflight magazines covering reports opening is her apartment in Tel Aviv, comfortable corner and browse this issue at your leisure. Our feature on living on an Italian commune, ga- featured in Time Out Tel Aviv. stories showcase a host of champions in the arts, design, agriculture tecrashing the Cannes film festival, and hospitality sectors, and the travel guide offers a handpicked se- and circumnavigating 360° around Antonio Chiaese lection of things to do, places to dine, drink and dream, followed by the world in 360 hours. He has in- Antonio Chiaese is an Italian writer a calendar of seasonal events. It is a delight and privilege to be able terviewed everybody from Mariah and public historian currently based to share them with you, and I hope that you will find this issue helpful Carey to Michael Douglas, and Ri- in Vilnius, Lithuania, where he co- and inspiring during your stay in the land of Puglia. chard Branson to the Red Hot Chili operates with several groups and Peppers. associations active in the social and I’d love to hear about your experience. cultural fields. He loves learning new E-mail me at: [email protected] Himali Singh Soin languages, visiting new cities, tasting Himali Singh Soin is a writer and arti- new food and drinks - experiences Yours, st based between London and Delhi. that nourish his writings, together Eleonora Her work is inspired by fantastical with the colors and flavors of his be- literature, the deep sea, outer space loved . and botanical gardens. She has per- formed her poetry across the world in immersive, audio visual environments

4 5 Contents 8 22 Travel Arts & Culture Lost in the Woodlands of Puglia Beyond Baroque VIA explores the hidden paths in the fairytale woodlands of A tour of Lecce reveals a palpable sense of spirituality Puglia, dotted with historic towns and countryside hospitality beneath its architectural marvels 12 26 Experiences Sports Days of Aquamarine The Eco-Chic Excursionist In Puglia, breathtaking blues coalesce with Unique experiences where you can trek, vintage whites, where you can retreat cycle, snorkel, meditate, fly and then dine between land and sea under the stars 30 14 Design Present Imperfect Jewelry Artist Delphine Bekaert talks to VIA about her journey Pearl of the South from Belgium’s contemporary art scene to haute ceramic A jewelry collection of simplistic luxury; design in Puglia sourced fresh out of the water, woven from the earth and handmade in 34 Architecture Solid as a Rock 16 Ostuni-based stone expert TWS has developed new techniques to restore historic masserie and create new use Health & for stone Wellness A League of His Own 36 How one local entrepreneur is distilling wholesome nutrients Lifestyle from ancient olive trees into a People of Puglia revolutionary bite-sized packet The stories, ideas and innovations by the people of Puglia, from small town to the big city 19 Wine 41 The Renaissance Travel Guide of Apulian Rosé From Trani to Lecce and across the heel to It’s the “golden age” for Puglia’s and Gallipoli, VIA highlights its best pink harvest, thanks to top-ranking addresses vineyards and increasing global recognition 70 Culture Calendar A guide to arts and culture events across Puglia, from May to October 6 TRAVEL TRAVEL Lost in the Hiking the Daunian Mountains in Puglia. Woodlands SPECIAL EDITORIAL of Puglia VIA explores the hidden paths in the fairytale woodlands of Puglia, dotted with historic towns and countryside hospitality

rcheotrekking is a new kind and over. You can start from the of experience in Italy that fo- north at Lucera or from Roccetta Acuses on combining cultural Sant’Antonio in the south. development and environmental tourism as a way to explore cultural In the north end of Puglia, treasures and engage with regional from Gargano to the Daunian crafts and traditions in a territory. Mountains, trekkers will enjoy a The outdoor cultural sports activity cross-town archeotrek that passes is based on walking itineraries with through woodland and villages organized paths, ranging levels of that were home to pre-historic curiosity and overnight stays. civilizations. The people who inhabit the mountain range have with whom locals share stories, with the aid of public transport. at the heart is the Terra Vecchia Woodland and a botanical garden. The suggested itineraries are suita- a natural disposition to hospitality travel suggestions and ‘slow quarter that merits a visit. Puglia’s From the early morning, local de- ble for solo travelers, families and and service. Travelers here are not cooking’ recipes. The route covers the towns of highest peak is at Cornacchia licacies brew in the air, enveloping small groups with children ages 12 mere passersby; they are guests Bovino (home to a beautiful Mountain, rising 1,152 meters you at every corner, making this The Monti Dauni (Daunian Basilica and site engravings from above sea level. The Frassati Trail town an ideal stop for pleasantries Mountains) is a series of three 3 B.C.), Ascoli Satriano (with located here is perfect for Nordic and culinary engagement. breathtaking mountains where mosaics from the first century walking with a three-day trek and oak forests and maple-covered and relics of the ’ lavish overnight stays. Find a spot at On the way are particular points rolling hills dominate the landsca- life) and the medieval town of Cerasa Woods to inhale the fresh of interest, including visits to the pe. Named after the goddess Pietramontecorvino, one of the air and enjoy a rest. authentic farms, fruit Diana, the woods exude a certain most beautiful in Italy. The town picking from the orchards, and wisdom, having survived millennia is surrounded by wild forests After crossing the mountains, a cooking class where amid the of historic events and conquests, with paths suspended among from the charming town of Faeto, scent of freshly picked wild herbs while each twist of the river greets the trees (Pila di Sant’Onofrio) you can enjoy a scenic view you can enjoy a lunch made with travelers with legends and stories. and Tibetan bridges at Parco over the entire landscape. Faeto your very own hands and infused Experienced hikers can journey Avventura. Built on the foot of town is composed of entangled, with flavor that suits your palate. by foot with overnight stops, whi- Monti Dauni, the town overlooks cobblestone alleyways with be- The banquet style cooking you le other travelers can combine the a magical landscape seen only autiful overhead arches while just will often come across comprises View from Sant’Agata di Puglia and the Daunian Mountains. journey on horseback, bicycle or in children’s fairytale books and outside is the enchanting Difesa a rich array of ‘slow food’ recipes

8 9 TRAVEL Fresh mozzarella di Bufala with homemade sauce. abundant in flora and fauna.

Whether you start from the nor- thern or southern points, the lan- dscape is spellbinding with many spots for splendid vistas, peaceful observations, light lunches, an af- ternoon rest, and dinner under the stars. In this authentic, preserved and uncontaminated environment, a sense of revival takes over, even for lovers of the big city. The sense of tranquility and the natural silen- ce reset your own inner rhythm, the way nature intended.

SPECIAL STOPS

Sunset on the peak of Mount Cornacchia. La Taverna Del Duca Photo by © Daniele Frigida (Orizzonti Simbruini). Corso Umberto I 5, 71023 Bovino Tel: +39 0881 966326 using local produce, linked to with countless archaeological finds Rocchetta Sant’Antonio is the historic rural traditions. including the Roman Bridge on pearl of the Daunian Mountains, a Peppe Zullo Calaggio River. Once at Accadia, picturesque village that overlooks Moving from the classical period you can pass the Rione Fossi, the region of Puglia, Via Piano Paradiso to the Middle Ages, is the town of the original historic center of the and Basilicata. At the Mother 72017 Orsara di Puglia Troia home to the Norman Tower village where a series of caves and Church is a treasure trove of price- Tel: +39 0881 964763 and Byzantine sarcophaguses. pre-historic dwellings mark the lo- less art with works by Scognami- peppezullo.it/ristorante The beautiful towns of Sant’Agata cations where Greek hermits once glio, Giaquinto and Brudaglio. di Puglia and Rocchetta Sant’An- lived. The scene is rather surreal An olive grove in the A network of trails emerges from Gargarno Promontory Oasis-Sapori Antichi tonio are two additional stops that since the city was abandoned after the historic center to the countrysi- in Puglia. Via Provinciale Vallesaccarda are highly recommended. Perched a 1930 earthquake devastated de, passing archaeological sites 83050 Vallesaccarda at the top of the mountains at the town, and yet, this ghost town and the Incoronata Forest (Bosco Tel: +39 082 797 021 800 meters above sea level and comes to life every year during the dell’Incoronata) where ancient bordering the neighboring region Accadia Blues Jazz Festival, held Where the Daunian oasis-saporiantichi.it churches remain hidden in under- Mountains meet the of Campania, Sant’Agata di Puglia during the third week in July. growth, as well as the Ofanto River region of Gargano. resembles a city of nativity with its Imperial Castle built on the highest point of the town, the protector of its people. Known for its farming activity, the town preserves much of its traditions from the 16th century with a historic oil mill still in operation.

As you complete the passage through Sant’Agata di Puglia, you can trek the 12-kilometer path to Accadia passing through the Paduli Green Woodlands, and the Frugno stream of Monte Serbaroli,

Biking through the town of Bovino. 10 EXPERIENCES Days of Aquamarine STORY BY Himali Singh Soin

In Puglia, breathtaking blues coalesce with vintage whites, where you can retreat between land and sea The splendid waters of the Adriatic around Gargano Natural Park.

n Southern Italy, the land of Puglia crowds, biking among the olive trees, Back on the coast, private dinners Holidays with no expiry date can remains among the country’s hid- kayaking through picturesque valleys can be arranged on the beach or at a easily be extended with specialized Iden gems, with orchards of silver or enjoying wine and oil tastings on private castle. The team can also plan yoga retreats and holistic paths deep olive trees, harvests of award winning land ...that’s real luxury.” says Teo dynamic itineraries for small groups in the woodlands of Puglia – the only rosé, farmland that breeds sweet red Titi, CEO at Yachtin’Puglia. including farm-to-table experiences, challenge will be finding a way out of carrots, and hidden grottoes consu- trekking around Matera, vintage car this paradise. med by aquamarine water. Whether If you’re keen to explore the under- rides in the Itria Valley, cycling in the exploring on land or just across, Pu- world, the Adriatic coast is replete countryside, and wine tasting lunches A full day of sailing and historic town glia’s many-hued pleasures offer 800 with turquoise reefs and sea caves in a private vineyard. “Of the experien- visits, including prosecco and lunch kilometers worth of coastal delights. including Torre dell’Orso and Grotte ces we offer, a highlight is the chance starts from €4,000 (for up to 10 guests). Cipolliane. Sail to the Tremiti Islands to to taste the food of Michelin-starred Overnight boat rentals with staff can Enter Yachtin’Puglia, an onshore dive in the protected marine reserve, chefs, Antonella Ricci and Vinod be arranged only in advance and concierge that combines its network followed by a stop at Baia Delle Zagare Sookar, who own Al Fornello da Ricci on-request. VIP services inclusive. and know-how to offer specialized for a swim and visit the Paleolithic sea in , a place often re- experiences in Puglia, from the Adria- caves of Polignano a Mare. On the ferred to as the capital of gastronomy tic to the Ionian coast. The team is Ionian coast, the pace is even slower, in Puglia,” says Titi. Day trips on board a private boat in Puglia. also well prepared to provide logistic with never-ending lunches set against DON’T MISS THESE Photo courtesy of Yachtin’Puglia. services for yachts with an impres- the backdrop of the crystal water and HIDDEN GEMS: sive track record, and leverages its sandy shores of . A culinary experience with Chef Antonella Ricci and Vinod Sookar. deep knowledge of the market to Ph courtesy of Yachtin'Puglia · Grotta delle Rondinelle offer tailor-made services across the The day experience culminates with a · Episcopina Cave region, bookmarking Puglia as the sunset aperitif and Apulian tapas from · Ardito Cave (Cave of the nuns) new luxury travel destination. farm to deck, in this case, or direct from the depths of the sea. Guests can You can rent a boat for the day and stay on board for pre-planned dinner, Yachtin’Puglia snorkel in silent blue grottoes, or at the special service of the region’s Vico de Lubelli, 8 simply take the slow route, with a top chefs, who sail in and hop on 72100 summer novel and Spritz. “Visiting board for the evening with traditional [email protected] popular destinations with the space ‘pizzica’ musicians infusing a happy www.yachtinpuglia.com to relax on board and away from the and festive air. Kosher food available on request.

12 13

Lakeside view in the Umbra Forest. JEWELRY JEWELRY Pearl of Pearls from the South Pacific are sown onto organic thread. the South STORY BY Eleonora Betesh

A jewelry collection of simplistic luxury; sourced fresh out of the water, woven from the earth and A long necklace made of organic material and a cluster of baroque handmade in Bari pearls from the South Pacific.

er designs have captured style and character – no two pieces husband has always possessed, in Yet, they need not venture far to the attention of discerning are alike. In the team’s humble both creativity and dexterity. In fact, find it - their motherland offers Heyes, from the fashion world studio in Bari, the daily experimen- the creations of Mela Jewelry are a inspiration in spades. “We are to the silver screen, including the tation of materials is a continuous reflection of their harmonious and children of this land”, she affirms. likes of Mrs. Paola Fendi for whom process and “a playful game of magical union, which Mela descri- “Puglia is a hidden treasure that she designed one-off creations. combinations and contrasts in bes as “a natural evolution”. with a bit of curiosity and patience, Each piece evokes a simplistic continuous evolution”. reveals itself generously. This is luxury, as if the owner has always The natural and organic materials evident in the abundant beauty, its owned it. Specialty boutiques have Each piece is the result of a four- are of the highest quality, found mild climate, its open-minded and commissioned men’s capsule hand assembly line, and in a world during their long journeys around friendly people, in the cuisine and collections and she has produced that increasingly pushes towards the world. They source the raw yarn its crystal shoes - but above all”, collections for respected American mass production their craft is an in Italy while the baroque pearls are she emphasizes, “Puglia is still able bridal companies, designing haute artisanal treasure they intend to fruits of the South Sea, the Pacific to show itself with simplicity without jewelry tailored to wedding gowns preserve. The combination of rope, Ocean and the Indian Ocean, va- useless refinement.” and event locations. pearls and gemstones that dance rying in color and bathed in shades in the light is supernatural to the of pink, gold, bronze and gray. All photos courtesy of Mela Jewelry. Just this year, the Museum of point of fusion, as if it were retrieved Contemporary Art Chicago (MCA) se- from the seabed in one piece. Mela From visits to exotic islands to lected Mela’s new collection as part explains that this intertwining was artisan towns, Mela has discove- of an artistic exhibition, displaying her born spontaneously, from the very red that the spark of creation is LOCATIONS work among those of living artists beginning – it was never planned everywhere, essentially guiding their worldwide, in order to explain the research yet it perfectly represents creative process at every step. She · Cheval Blanc, St. Barth’s historical, social, and cultural context their vision. describes the birth of inspiration as · Artisans - Toko, Nagoya and Osaka of contemporary art. This recognition almost magical, arising from colors · Maison K, Santa Barbara, CA marks an extraordinary achievement The careful selection of linen, cana- of the sunset, a physical sensa- · Bocnyc - New York, NY for the husband-wife team behind pe, silk, cashmere, baroque pearls tion or random disorder on her · Elaine Hammond - East Hampton, NY The husband-wife team behind Mela Jewelry. and semi-precious stones allows worktable. “It is magically born as Mela Jewelry pause for a smile Bespoke creations are the standard the seasoned artisanal eye to be- if it were always there waiting to be during a photoshoot. at her studio, with compositions stow depth and character to each triggered,” she affirms. By appointment in Bari and New York made to match a client’s specific piece, a gift that she claims her Tel: +39 333 942 2154 Necklace made of organic material with precious gem- [email protected] stones and a cluster of pearls woven into the rope. 14 15 HEALTH & WELLNESS A League of His Own STORY BY Christian Koch

How one local entrepreneur is distilling wholesome nutrients from ancient olive trees into a revolutionary, bite-sized packet

he oldest woman in Europe velletri (), an area abundant within two hours to keep nutrients lives in Puglia. Maria Giusep- in UNESCO-protected olive groves. intact. T pa Robucci turned 116 years Olivhealth is the brainchild of 35-ye- old in March, and the secret to her ar-old Cosimo Damiano Guarini, a The result of joint studies with An olive grove of centenary olive trees in Puglia with deep, intertwining roots. longevity is a frugal diet consisting passionate Apulian entrepreneur the University of Pharmacy and of bread, tomatoes and… . who undertook intense research in Agriculture of Bari, Guarini states What’s most interesting about this surrounded by Puglia’s ancient olive follow for those who really want to Not by chance, in her hometown of the design of this product. Olivhealth that Olivhealth is the first olive oil product is its high versatility and trees, has also written several books visit ‘Le Puglie’,” says Guarini. The Apricena, she is surrounded by olive consists of oil that is processed in Puglia to be naturally rich in ease of use – you simply tear the on his beloved culture and landsca- entrepreneur published BikOliveOil, a groves. The ingredient is a staple of polyphenols (antioxidants) that may opening and drink straight from the pe, always linked back to the olive book that features olive mills, recipes the region’s ‘cucina povera’ where help prevent cardiovascular disea- packet, accompanying any meal tree. “Puglia, always referred to in and cycling journeys that pass rustic bread and oil meet on every ses, with vitamin E to protect cells during the day. Italy by the plural, ‘Le Puglie’ preser- through rural churches, old railways, table. from oxidative stress, unsaturated fat (promotes healthy cholesterol) Olivhealth has been capturing the ves a diversity of territory, traditions, aqueducts, and magical olive groves attention on a national level; Guarini dialects, dishes and landscapes, that will have you appreciating One might argue that only and omega-3. is working with professional sports whose constant is the olive tree. the age-old wisdom, beauty and an Apulian could develop players in Italy to integrate the In fact, the olive tree is the trail to vulnerability of one of Puglia’s most such a product. After all, Where most people drizzle product as part of a fitness regime. important agricultural treasures. Puglia is home to some olive oil on their food, just In addition, high levels of Vitamin E 60 million olive trees one dose per meal can makes it an ideal nutritional supple- and produces nearly guarantee the beneficial ment during pregnancy while the 40% of Italy’s olive oil. effect of its health pro- Omega-3 count is ideal for childho- ‘La Bella della Daunia’, perties. Olivhealth comes how to purchase in small packets; a single od development. an olive native to Pu- Olivhealth is available online and ‘monodose’ contains 236 glia, is even protected in strategic locations across Puglia drops of oil, tantamount While the olive groves are located in under European law. www.olivhealth.it to one classic tablespoon. the countryside of Fasano, Guarini is often on the road for presentations Now, one local agronomist Guarini has intentionally with thought leaders or conducting Explore Puglia and entrepreneur has deve- developed the product this research with medical experts. loped an organic, extra virgin way so that while it retains the For cycling itineraries visit: Yet his knowledge of the land is olive oil sourced from ancient throat-burning response that true www.via-magazine.com uncanny. Guarini, who grew up olive trees in the countryside of Sa- olive oil must have, it is not bitter.

16 17 wine The Renaissance of Apulian STORY BY Christia n Koch Rosé

It’s the “golden age” for Puglia’s pink harvest, thanks to top-ranking vineyards and increasing global recognition

hich Italian region produ- ces the most wine? Tu- W scany with its ‘trattoria’- imbibing Chiantis? Piedmont and Nino Piccolo Architetto www.ninopiccolo.com its big-hitting Barolos? Perhaps Franciacorta, accomplishing a of never-ending bottles of Prosecco?

It’s actually Puglia. The volumes of vino produced by Italy’s sunbaked heel are staggering: nine million hec- toliters in 2017 alone. That nearly equals Chile’s entire output and is more wine produced than the whole of Germany.

Yet, until recently, many Italians sniffed at the idea of supping wine from the land of ‘terroni’ (peasants). Indeed, most Apulian grapes ended up fortifying table wine or being blended into .

Today, it’s a different story. Puglia still shifts huge quantities of wine, but oenophiles across the globe are now finally raving about its quality. This is thanks, partly, to Apulian winemakers better promoting their

18 wine

Lunch and wine tasting setup at the Tormaresca Wine Resort. Photo courtesy of Tormaresca. harvest online but, it is also due to with skin”, something Apulian growing appreciation for its rosé. ‘rosato’ makers like to talk about when discussing their winemaking In recent years, the likes of the Sa- methods. This might conjure images lento-based Leone de Castris, pro- of rubbing grapes into your epider- ducer of Five Roses (the first rosé to mis like a boozy moisturizer, but it be bottled in Italy) and Tormaresca actually refers to the grapes being winery have been garlanded with in left in contact with the skins. ‘Five selecting a wine to accompany food his soldiers. There was one caveat: ROSÉ IN PUGLIA awards, while also capitalizing upon Roses’ is made using is as important as your choice of Leone had no wine bottles. Instead, a global rosé trend (remember grapes. According to Sicuro, “Five- dining partner, Apulian rosés are a he poured his elixir into beer bottles Leone de Castris 2016’s vogue for frosé aka frozen six hours of ‘contact’ produces perfect pairing for regional cuisine. U.S. officers had left behind. www.leonedecastris.com rosé?). Could we now be looking at more freshness and acidity, and our “Apulian rosé is good with , Winery with cellar tours & tastings, France’s autre chic rosé competitor? light-pink color.” seafood, sushi and ,” says Since that auspicious start, Apulian wine bar and luxury stays Adriano Sicuro, export manager at Sicuro. “Many people view rosé as rosé has come a long way. Today, Leone de Castris, certainly thinks Indeed, Apulian rosés have a range a summer drink, but if you can eat glasses of these quaffable blushes Masseria Amastuola Wine Resort so. “Right now, rosé in Puglia is at of photogenic hues, whether it’s seafood and pizza all seasons, why can be enjoyed at the estates where www.amastuola.it the golden age,” he says. the cherry-red varieties made from not rosé?” they were made, such as Leone de Winery with a restaurant, cellar the red soils of the trulli-studded Castris. Elsewhere, former-estates tours & tastings and luxury stays Puglia’s pink harvest is certainly Valle d’Itria, the delicate peony of Although Puglia has been producing and ‘masserie’ have been converted unique. The hot climate, sun- Tormaresca’s Negroamaro-based wine since it was colonized by the into farm-stays and hotels where Tormaresca parched soil and occasional Adriatic Calafuria, or the intense coral ancient Greeks, rosé wasn’t officially wine tastings and pairings can be www.tormaresca.it sea-breeze has bequeathed the shades of the 100% Negroama- bottled here until 1944 when Ame- arranged, such as Crispiano’s plush Winery visits at region with a distinct ‘terroir’, not to ro Versante Rosato, made with rican general, Charles Poletti statio- Masseria Amastuola Wine Resort. Tenuta Bocca di Lupo mention some outstanding grapes. 40-year-old vines by the two sisters ned in Brindisi during World War II, (Closed 8-19 August) The negroamaro takes star billing running Agricole Vallone winery near sampled some of the pinkish wine If rosé is the quintessential summer here. Its literal translation (“black bit- Lecce. of lawyer Don Piero Leone and his wine, then it’s hard to imagine more Cantine Calò ter”) bears little relation to the fresh, wife, Donna, were making for friends apt environments in which to sip it. www.michelecalo.it perfumed taste of the rosés made The flavor of these rosés is no less and family in the small village of Yes, the sun shines brighter in Pu- Go for the Rosa del Golfo using this versatile vine. Negroama- exceptional, ranging from fruity Salice. The man was so enamored glia, but as its burgeoning reputation ro is also great for “making contact Harvest at Cantine Calò. Photo by Michele Calò. to floral accents. In Italy, where he immediately ordered some for shows, so does its rosé. San Marzano www.sanmarzanowines.com Sample the award-winning Tramari 20 21 ARTS & CULTURE Inside a private villa in Lecce. Photo by Marialba Pandolfini. Beyond Baroque Story by Eleonora Betesh

A tour of Lecce reveals a palpable sense of spirituality beneath its architectural marvels

he Baroque architecture that forty years of silence - no one mana- tions and raised the flooring; guests graces the facades of Lecce ged to enter the property prior to the are encouraged to walk barefoot T represents just one chapter arrival of Beatrice Baldisser and her and place their feet firmly on the among many in this historical daughter Martina Pisacane. earth - even during breakfast. city. There is a palpable sense of A year-long, careful restoration energy every place you go, and process was required to understand Beatrice’s aesthetic sensitivity is local storytelling will transform an the structure’s history, its logistic uncanny. She has applied 25 years ordinary walk into an enlightening features and hidden architecture. of experience in holistic therapy to experience. The result is a warm and generous design every single element in this space that retains the structure’s ori- sanctuary of hospitality, with rooms Hospitality in Spades ginal purpose as a womb dedicated and suites each designed according Located in the former quarters of to quality time, rest and wellbeing. to its distinctive energy and referring the Sant’Anna Conservatory, the In order to neutralize the energies to the Hartmann Nodes to ensure historic building was converted into of the ground, Beatrice placed the guest’s wellbeing. A ‘fil rouge’ of a charming luxury residence after micro-crystals above the founda- services complete the experience with homemade in-room snacks

The entrance to a suite at and natural juices, an in-house Palazzo Sant’Anna in Lecce. restaurant with experiential dinners, Photo courtesy of and an exceptional breakfast ban- Palazzo Sant’Anna. quet made fresh every day, following the purest biological processes. What Beatrice has lovingly given to reviving the structure has returned to her in spades.

Noble is the Night While the doors of private palaces open to public in May (see page 62 of the travel guide), there is a more interesting way to explore what’s

23 ARTS & CULTURE ARTS & CULTURE

The Jewish museum in Lecce. Photo courtesy of Palazzo Taurino.

Jewish Lecce During the Middle Ages, Lecce was Dinner party at a villa in . Photo by Marialba Pandolfini. home to a thriving Jewish community with active leaders such as Abraham de Balmes, a man of high intellect The location of the mezuzah groove in Facade of the Jewish museum. who was also the sovereign’s perso- Lecce. Photo courtesy of Palazzo Taurino. Photo courtesy of Palazzo Taurino. nal physician. However, outbreaks of intolerance were frequent until the discovered during renovations for ultimate expulsion of the community the opening of a restaurant. The BOOK A TOUR in the late 16th century, essentially museum includes the story of the Tours with the museum director (Prof ending Jewish life in Puglia. It was community that once thrived here, Fabrizio Lelli) can be arranged on and ends in a dimly-lit screening Private lunch set-up only in 2006 that the 13th century request [email protected] in a private home. The hidden gardens of Lecce. orthodox Scolanova Synagogue in room with the personal stories of Photo by Maria Pandolfini. Photo by Marialba Pandolfini. Trani was re-dedicated and opened families who lived in . Historic Jewish towns of interest: for worship after being seized by the · behind closed doors – away from combined with their skills, genuine The tour offers an authentic close-up Roman Catholic Church in 1380. After the visit, it is easier to imagine · Acaya the crowds and at your leisure. With life stories and love for Puglia, are of people’s lives with local traditions, the life of the Jewish community with · the help of local travel designers, the able to share the experiences with cultural heritage and healthy food all Because Lecce is a city built layer the toponymy of the Giudecca experience takes a more personal guests. “Don’t ask yourself what part of the experience. One of the upon layer spanning thousands of marked with bilingual Italian and · course with afternoon lunches, pro- you want to do but who you want to palace owners, the descendent of a years the oldest part is buried below Hebrew street plates in the neigh- · perty tours and talks with the owners meet,” says Pandolfini. noble family, offers architecture tours ground, making remnants hard to bourhood just outside. · Porto of these intriguing homes. around the city with stories of Lecce’s find. Located on the lower level of · Nothing on the outside prepa- famous facades. The first lady of the medieval Palazzo Taurino is the While there are more pieces lacking · A custom itinerary curated by res you for what is inside these another family is a ceramic artist with Jewish Museum. What remains than present, the energy that · the Lecce-based travel designer magnificent residences. Halls that a personal collection of handmade th are the grounds of a 15 century remains is intriguing, with enough · Marialba Pandolfini, CEO and open into one another, and photos ceramic dishware and décor who also synagogue, the carved groove where history to fill a library. Books are owner at Tourango, can open cover every centimeter of the walls tends to the artwork on the walls of the sacred parchment (mezuzah) was available in English and Italian at the Medieval Jewish Lecce those doors, revealing intriguing of centuries before. The kitchens the palace. Lunch, dinner and aperi- placed, and ritual baths (mikvaot) museum gift shop, as well as Ju- personalities, moving family stories are always a point of interest with tivo with a menu can be planned with originally built in the center of the Giu- daica gifts and kosher Primitivo and palazzotaurino.com and untouched historic residences guests curious to see what a typical Marialba and prepared by the owners decca (Jewish district) and adjacent Chardonnay wines from Puglia. still inhabited by family descendants Leccese household really eats - it’s or requested chefs. Together with the to the Basilica of Santa Croce - all Palazzo Sant’Anna who gracefully preserve their tradi- actually quite humble. The gardens, homeowners, architects and chefs, Suites & Apartments tions. Marialba is passionate about surrounded by historic monuments you’re able to piece together a story palazzosantannalecce.com her work, and is involved in creating and archaeological sites, are a place that becomes your own – an eye- a community of local people who where discourse, dance and music opening experience that centers on a TouranGo Destination Managment specialize in what they do and are often arranged for guests. grand love for people and hospitality. tourango.it

24 25 Inscriptions discovered during renovations. Photo courtesy of Palazzo Taurino. SPORTS The eco-chic Excursionist SPECIAL EDITORIAL

Unique experiences where you can trek, cycle, snorkel, meditate, fly

like a bird and then dine The ‘volo dell’angelo’ departs from Castelmezzano and overlooks the Coastal trekking in Puglia. Lucanian Dolomites and beautiful towns. under the stars

hile luxury means diffe- a combination of adventure sports, Palude del Capitano marshlands. southernmost tip of Santa Maria rent things to most peo- trekking, wellbeing and haute cuisi- An abundance of fossils are left di Leuca, passing through quaint Wple, the rush that luxury ne converge to reunite, reconnect from historic tsunamis, with cliffs villages, lush fields with abandoned fuels involves feeling the rarest and rejuvenate. and abysses that are home to trulli and prehistoric caves such as sensations, accessing the unknown flora and fauna. Going from sandy Grotte Cipolliane. and forging a path that is uniquely Coastal Trekking coast to expansive dunes and karst yours. Beyond seaside and nightlife Guided excursions along the Ionian landscapes it is amazing to see just Hiking along the river bend scenes, Puglia is an experiential coast provide endless scenic shots how varied the landscape is in this Just south of Matera is the historic playground that beckons curious of the aquamarine sea and a chan- singular route. town of Ginosa; on the ancient paths and adventurous spirits. ce to learn about the geological along the banks of the river, travelers evolution of the natural landsca- You can walk along the Adriatic can hike independently or hire a pri- The following routes and activities pe between Gallipoli and Porto coast, starting from Gargano in the vate guide with excursions through are suitable for solo travelers, cou- Cesareo. The route passes through north with its dramatic seascapes a lavish, green valley. Thousands of ples and small groups of family and the Isola di Sant’Andrea Regional and lush forests, to the open plains years of human and natural history friends, and even men’s retreats Park, the Punta Pizzo coast, Porto behind Torre Guaceto that meet remain here. (an on-the-rise travel trend) where Selvaggio Regional Park and the the sea, and from Otranto to the Charming rustic kitchens dot the countryside, an ideal stop to rest and recharge. Master bakers recreate recipes by hand, and the delight- ful aromas of freshly baked bread merge with fresh-from-the-backyard olive oil and wine from the region of Gravina in Puglia. In the cool mountain air of Gravina in Puglia, hikers can explore the large ravine at the bottom which flows the homo- nymous river. Passing the labyrinth streets of Piaggio and Fondovico towns you can visit the underground

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View of Torre Sant’Andrea in Salento. Views onto Gravina in Puglia. Trekkers and rock climbers Snorkeling at Punta Secca (Isola will love the challenge of the di Capraia) in the Tremiti Islands. Seaside dinner setup Lucanian Dolomites. Photo by Paradisi Paralleli. with a private chef.

Gravina with ancient cisterns dating the lush forest in its majestic silence and net. The beauty of this experien- Yoga & Meditation lin-starred dinner at the location of back to the last century found only and feel the rush of an experience ce lies in its rustic simplicity; enjoy If you’re seeking your place of inner your choice or at the comfort of your here. afforded only by winged creatures. an early morning swim and the first quiet or wanting to master the tech- private villa. Alternatively, you can coffee of the day with the sun’s rays nique, the backdrop of centenary-old also go on market tours and tastings Rock Climbing Biking dancing across the horizon, fish your olive trees is something to consider. with the chef prior to the experience In the heart of Basilicata, the glo- Biking in the mountain range of the own food and head back to your The landscape between Fasano and to discover the rich biodiversity of rious spires of the 15 million year- Terra delle Gravine natural reserve piece of paradise with a sense of self Savelletri, extending on the road to the region. old Lucanian Dolomites rise to the park you’re surrounded by sheer achievement. Ostuni and along the coast to Carovi- Barefoot Dinners sky, with dramatic views and sha- wilderness, while a tour around the gno offers wonderful walking paths What’s better than breakfast in pes reminiscent of Trentino. At the historic villages of the Itria Valley Snorkeling surrounded by tens of thousands of bed? Probably a barefoot dinner Via Ferrata you can rock climb and lend a more picturesque experience When the ocean lures you from ancient olive groves where you can on a stretch of beach lit by torches cross Nepalese bridges held by a passing through landscapes dotted earth’s surface, snorkeling in a seek the wisdom of ancient olive and the moonlight, with a local chef wire. Once the adrenaline settles, with trulli, haystacks and vineyards. natural marine reserve is a wonderful trees, silent and graceful, and roll out cooking your favorite cuisine. Indeed, sample local produce cultivated in Yet a night bike ride is perhaps alternative. Down under, the tempe- a blanket or yoga mat to connect to eco-chic barefoot dinners on the the surrounding farmland. more suggestive here in Puglia, ei- ratures are cooler, there is enough your own inner wisdom. ‘calette’ (inlets) along the Adriatic and ther preceded by a special aperitivo space for everyone and you can Ionian coast can be arranged with The Angel’s Flight or well-earned after covering some explore the marine life. The Torre The Stars Above and Below the help of local travel designers. Lo- In Italian, hand gliding is known ground under a starlit sky. Guaceto Marine Reserve organizes After a long hike in Matera or evening cations include Torre Colimena and as ‘flight of the angel’ and for just Overnight options are available too, guided snorkeling excursions, while excursion by the sea, stargazing in Castel Fiorentino. Traditional Apulian reason. Wearing only a harness with an early morning breakfast in experienced snorkelers can access a remote countryside location is the music bands can accompany the fastened with security clasps an exclusive location to prolong the the reserve by boat and explore perfect ending to a day in Puglia. experience, infusing rhythm and spirit tied to a steel cable, you’re sent experience. independently. In addition, private The only requisite is a clear sky or to an unforgettable evening. off into the open air, crossing travel experts can arrange day trips the light of the moon. Book a private from the mountaintop village of Early Morning Fishing where you can snorkel and dive in astronomer or head to the Astro- Castelmezzano to Pietrapertosa Early birds will appreciate a journey unique grottoes. Special locations nomic Park (Parco Astronomico) in in the Lucanian Dolomites. Finally, to the open sea; take advantage include Grotte di Porto Cesareo, Salento, close to the town of Salve. MAKE A PLAN at 1000 meters in altitude you can of the fresh still air and venture to Grotte del Soffio in Santa Maria di Back on earth, by day or under the To book the angel’s flight: take in the environmental heritage the depths with a local fisherman Leuca, Punta Secca at the Tremiti moonlight that guides you to the volodellangelo.com Biking in the Apulian countryside. around you with the town’s houses where you decide the catch of the Islands, and Il Curvone at Santa Milky Way, a private chef can light up For private dinners and yoga retreats: Photo courtesy of Puglia Cycle Tours. miraculously perched on the rocks, day and experiment with the bait Caterina di Nardò. the evening with a gourmet or Miche- tourango.com For cycling, snorkeling and romantic dining: tipicatour.com 28 29 design Present Experience a fusion of nature, emotions and perfumes Imperfect STORY BY Eleonora Betesh

Artist Delphine Bekaert talks to VIA about her journey from Belgium’s contemporary art scene to haute ceramic design in Puglia

erfection has long lost its meaning in a contemporary Psense. Former art gallerist Delphine Bekaert could certainly at- test that, having changed her entire lifestyle from the fast track in search for something else - something that gives life a daily voyage of discovery.

As the name suggests, Delphine was not born in Puglia nor was she raised here. Like many internatio- nalists that relocated to Puglia, Del- phine owned a successful business. She was a successful gallerist in Belgium, at the crossroads of cul- ture, attending international art fairs where familiar faces and business exchanges were the order of the day over the course of a decade.

Her connection to contemporary art morphed into something completely different, though. Love took her on a journey, she gave birth to her daughter Lucy and while on holiday in Puglia, she found an old property in a rustic plot of land that was to be Available at the finest hotels in Puglia. her home. So she settled down 100% natural and locally-derived ingredients sourced from ancient olive trees and native grapes of Alto Salento and the Itria Valley. and thought, “Now what?” Not tested on animals. Dermatologically tested. Hypoallergenic. Made in Puglia.

30 essentiapuglia.com Delphine was fascinated - borderline Descending the narrow staircase is obsessed - with glass and tableware, like traversing into another time and buying one-off pieces at markets until space. Fresh designs are set to dry she amassed a collection so vast that on tray carts as they take on their it suddenly made more sense to crea- intended form and color. Her style is at te them herself. And so, last year, she once primitive and almost infantile yet bought an oven and stocks of clay it is endearingly playful, aesthetic and and began experimenting - no formal practical. training, no wheels. She scrapped To say that each piece is made with the first 50 pieces she made until she passion is an understatement: it is nailed the shape of her craft. formed by inspiration most of us are obliged to find in a meditation app Delphine has a very playful and light- during lunch break. The rural setting hearted spirit, and coming from the generously offers magical landscapes art world it is quite a change. Anyone with wallpaper-like scenery, the light who is someone in the industry knows that emanates from the Apulian sky, that today’s scene is more about and the sound of Nina Simone’s business and less about the actual voice in the background. art. It’s one of the reasons that she is reluctant to build her brand on a A team of women from the nearby global scale despite encouragement town helps her to prepare exclusive, from prominent names in the design custom orders that require three world. Looking down the stairs from months to complete - a maximum of the ground floor to the cave, the three orders at a time. Where white studio seems suspended in mid-air. ceramic serves as a blank canvas on which to emphasize culinary compositions, special pigments that Delphine mixes herself, infuse joy: grey, light pink, yellow, mint green, and blue. Each piece - plates, bowls, cutlery, cups and coasters - is unique All photos courtesy of Delphine Bekaert. and built to last. Delphine calls it, ‘honest tableware handmade with an edgy elegance and a unique twist.’ By appointment

[email protected] www.delfinceramics.com 32 33 The ‘Kubica’ wall covering from the Trame di Pietra® collection by TWS. Architecture Solid as a Rock STORY BY Inbal Sinai

Ostuni-based stone expert TWS has developed new techniques to restore historic masserie and create new use Le Pietre Mediterranee® for stone stone floor by TWS at the entrance The ‘Tapis’ wall covering from the Trame to Villa Cenci in Puglia. di Pietra® collection by TWS.

n expert in the processing transforms the stones in Puglia with stone and marble to create new and mainly for indoor flooring and wall of oakwood tables covered with of creating natural stone, projects in the U.S., France, Italy unique surfaces.” coverings in bathrooms and spas, TWS surfaces. AOstuni-based company Tipi- and Russia. VIA contributor, Inbal with delicate textures and light “Raffaella and I followed each other cal World Stone (TWS) has created Sinai met with TWS’ Commercial Did you design this specifically for neutral colors. The micro engraving on Instagram and last September a flexible innovative technique to Manager, Alessandra Calo, to talk the restoration of masserie? creates an anti-slip surface, where when I was in Palermo, we met for a create unique effects and finishing about their latest innovations. “TWS started with flooring for the functionality meets aesthetics and coffee. We discovered that we share on a variety of stone, combining restoration of masserias in Puglia. beauty. We have recently introduced a love for natural materials, passion contemporary design with traditional How was the Trame di Pietra® Memories and the atmosphere of a new application made for furniture for architecture and many personal materials. The result is a collection of product created? antique houses inspired our first design which uses lightweight stone experiences abroad. Our first project stunning high-end surfaces applica- “After years of experience working collection, Le Pietre Mediterranee®, or marble slabs to create surfaces was presented during Milan Design ble for floor and wall coverings, with on standard finishes of natural sto- which aims to generate an authentic for dining tables, doors, and window Week… with Trame di Pietra® slabs innovations in furniture, too. nes, we searched for an innovative effect of the passage of time and shutters.” as tabletops in ‘Noir’ and ‘Greige’ way to transform such elegant mate- is therefore ideal for restoration natural stone. We now have several While extracted from different quarri- rials while preserving beauty and projects. Trame di Pietra® is desig- What inspires you most about projects in progress - two houses es in Italy, Morocco, Albania, France, identity. We developed a micro-- ned for the restoration of masserias Puglia? in Florence and Milan, tabletops for Spain and Croatia, the company graving technology used on natural as a new contemporary surface “I was born and raised in Puglia, restaurants in Palermo and Puglia - surrounded by nature and 1,000-ye- and more coming soon!” ar-old olive trees. Masserias and TWS’s Le Pietre Mediteranee® has trulli being old houses of the poor laid the groundwork for some of the were made mainly with local stones region’s most successful masserie (‘chianche’). However, they were full projects and leading hotels, as well as of history, embedded with stories of restaurants and many beautiful cellars culture, religion, and people, and are in the region. Ostuni-based villa Pa- thus remarkably inspiring… that, as lombara Piccola is one of their latest well as our continuous dialogue with projects and June 2019 will see the architects and designers.” opening of two new boutique hotels

in Monopoli and Manduria. You recently collaborated with Raffaella Guidobuono of ‘Lefto- All photos courtesy of TWS. The tabletop design by TWS ver’ design to present a new line and Raffaella Guidobuono of ‘Leftover’ design studio. EXPLORE THE PORTFOLIO 34 twstone.it 35 Completed flooring project by TWS at Masseria Salinola in Puglia. LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE

Mea Argentieri Then, like a runway platform rising Award-Winning Writer, Activist, from the Adriatic is the infinity pool, Sommelier & Estate Owner dug from the rock. What is a private Apulian villa without its own olive oil Italian-American writer Mea Argen- People of and wine? tieri spent years looking for a home The estate produces its own bottled in the south of Italy. One property extra virgin oil while harvests mature had what another lacked, but in the wine cellar, an achievement neither were ‘it’. At one point during Puglia that she is proud of. the tireless and persistent search, a Having much to do never challen- friend suggested that she consider ged Mea; it only inspires her further. another direction. “There is a magi- She was a sought-after broadca- cal place you must go to,” she said. sting executive in the 80s, and won Eager to set her eyes on the plot several Cannes Lion Awards for her The stories, ideas and destined for her, Mea followed the brilliant writing skills. She continues lead to the land of Puglia. innovations by the people of to write professionally, campaigning Amid sixty million olive trees, lush for social causes and publishing greenery from coast to hilltop, terra- Puglia, from small town to several books, including ‘Cowgirls cotta velvet earth, and wild flowers in English Saddles’ with photogra- blooming among crumbling walls the big city phy by Veronique Vial (available on made couture decades Amazon). The book tells the story ago, the magic presen- of a grassroots movement that ted itself. A set of historic saved eight acres of land trulli built in 1640, left Viale Pola 70, Ostuni to become a horse Conny Paglianiti discerning clients - both local and untouched and vulnera- 09:00-13:00; 17:00 to 20:30 facility, and explores the Owner Amore Boutique, Ostuni international. bly beautiful, stand close Via Pietro Vincenti 2, Ostuni relationship between Off duty, she is also a horticulturali- to one another. Huddled The owner and creative director of 10:00-13:30; 15:30-01:00 women and their st, with her own fruit and vegetable like a tribe of farmers one of Ostuni’s finest boutiques, the Open every day except Sunday. horses – a symbol of garden that includes broccoli, who inhabited it, suppor- acute eye will instantly understand energy, partnership for bookings aromatic herbs and a citrus ting each other’s walls that Conny Paglianiti wears her and strength. In 2014, [email protected] grove. In fact, she is well known for but retaining aesthetic heart on her sleeve so to speak, Mea’s name was @masseria_cacatosto her cooking and owned a restau- independence with its with an intriguing sense of style that among the Top 100 rant named Acquasale, which unique coned ceiling. It’s is evident in her choice of clothing Female Influencers was a culinary hotspot for years. easy to see why Mea fell and accessories. While she seems CONNY RECOMENDS: in Los Angeles. Her From the field to the fitting room, in love with Puglia and reserved on the outside, there is autobiography “My her appreciation for ‘materia prima’ For Lunch a river of imagination and poetic how Los Angeles was also leads her way of curating the Osteria del Tempo Perso Whole Life Came style flowing from her in spades. easy to leave behind. boutique collection. Clients who Via G. Tanzarella Vitale 47, Ostuni True” will be publi- Her boutique on Via Pola in Ostuni The bond with the land walk through the door eye the shed in 2020. is home to a carefully curated selec- took time, diplomacy collections with intense curiosity, Beaches Her inquisitive eyes and tion of womenswear, accessories and patience to form. The ground browsing unique pieces and testing White Beach, Ostuni volcanic spirit indicate and fragrances and you can see: Coccaro Beach Club, Savelletri on which the trulli sit proved stub- captivating fragrances of the that she is ready for she just gets it. born, solid rock land with strong highest quality. The boutique also more magic. When she first opened the first bou- For energy that challenged even the showcases accessories by Apulian tique 18 years ago in the historic Pasticceria Del Ciccio most creative plan. In fact, to Mea designers worth browsing- Via Armando Diaz 66, Ostuni heart of Ostuni, there were no such the restoration was exhausting yet somehow, each piece seems shops around for kilometers, nor cathartic. to match every outfit in your Favorite Winery was there an awareness of haute A chipping course and Boules court wardrobe. Some of the bran- Visit Cantine Due Palme and try the aesthetics. Literally built inside are at the front, while a free-hanging ds at Amore boutique include ‘Melarosa’ wine the grotto walls, the boutique Via S.Marco 130, Cellino S. Marco tent around the back is perfect for Compagnia Italiana, as well was open exclusively during cantineduepalme.it bookworms and afternoon medi- as fragrances and candles by the summer months, tations. At the footsteps of the trulli Clive Christian, Fornasetti, and and has remained an For Bookworms are the lounge and dining area with Amouage. Visit Ferdinando Salustio’s enchanting address for indoor and outdoor settings to ac- ‘Libreria Bottega del Libro’ commodate changing seasons. Corso G. Mazzini 10, Ostuni

36 37 LIFESTYLE

Marco Cedro ther goods and fine silverware. perceived as du- Co-Owner CEDRO Gioielleria In the early 1990s, his son Marco, rable collectibles Approaching Corso Garibaldi, who had completed his profes- with international Ancient and Contemporary embrace perhaps one of Fasano’s most sional training at the International clients seeking time- exclusive addresses, Cedro Jewelry Gemological Institute in Milan, joined telling masterpieces such stands out with its marble façade Leonardo in the family business. The as Baume & Mercier, Piaget at Castello di Ugento and elegant window display. The father-son team proved successful; and Montblanc. family-run business started in 1963, the boutique expanded its service Alongside these celebrated names when Puglia was nowhere close offering to clients and new spaces is distinguished service to match. to jetsetter’s radar, but under the were developed to highlight trends of The staff is multilingual in English, tenacious and enterprising hand the times, ever preserving a distinct French and Spanish, catering to of Leonardo Cedro, the young selection of precious jewels and a growing number of visitors and boutique owner quickly earned ac- luxury watches. returning clients both to the boutique colades for his entrepreneurial skills While Fasano is a town that is still and in Puglia. Everything from initial and refined taste in jewelry, watches adjusting to the presence of tourists, reception to post-sales assistance is and silverware. there is an undeniable international delivered with utmost professionalism Mr. Cedro’s passion for colored air that is subtly infused, perhaps by and care, an experience that places gems and pearls has guided the local business owners who travel Cedro in high demand well beyond collection from the get-go with pre- far and wide to bring the world the province. stigious, handcrafted jewels. Over closer or simply by the inborn Italian Outside the glass displays and the years, the family of savoir-faire. Cedro is a fusion of this looking through Marco’s expressive brands has expanded energy; on the one hand the polished eyes, he shares that Apulian luxury and today includes manners and seasoned spirit of can be experienced in “pleasant Baume & Mercier, Leonardo, and Marco’s enthusiasm strolls among ancient olive trees, an Piaget, Crieri, and aesthetic vision on the other. invigorating dive from the rugged Locman, Buccellati, Thirty years have passed, and Marco cliffs, afternoon reading in the shade Montblanc, and is intent on preserving the business of a fruit grove, and a resplendent Gucci as well as lea- culture attributed to his father’s long- dinner made with local ingredients of time success: strong interpersonal our generous land.” relationships and worldly Apulian ho- spitality matched with his own drive Corso Garibaldi 19, 72015 Fasano to exceed client expectations. Tel: +39 0804 413 610 From fashion jewelry to fine collec- cedrogioielleria.it tions, Italian jewels are highly regar- Service and assistance for watches ded worldwide thanks to quality ma- and jewelry onsite.Tax Free shopping terials and sophisticated technique. & international shipping available. Nowadays, jewelry has an important role in the styling of an outfit. “Female clientele prefer ‘prêt-à-porter pieces so we offer brands like Queriot, BEST ADDRESSES: Gucci and Giovanni Raspini - made in Italy both in style Caffè Bella Napoli and quality,” says Marco. “For Piazza Ciaia, 7 special occasions however, 72015 Fasano the search for highest quality Quattro Creative Wine Bar materials is paramount when Via degli Scavi, 4 CASTLE HOTEL RESTAURANT COOKERY SCHOOL seeking pieces of great value; 72015 Savelletri among these are Buccel- lati, Pippo Perez, Rota e Coccaro Beach Club Rota and Gucci, as well as Contrada Pantanelli, 72 exclusive jewels of our own pro- 70043 Capitolo duction.” Swiss-made watches Cala Masciola Beach Club are in a similar transition, now 72015 Savelletri di Fasano

Masseria Pettolecchia Il Lido Strada Provinciale 90 72015 Fasano www.castellodiugento.com A paradise between land & sea

“For us to go to Italy and to penetrate into Italy is like a most fascinating act of self-discovery.” D.H. Lawrence

Some things don’t need an introduction. Like good The ideal holiday destination for luxury travellers in Puglia. food, a sophisticated ensemble, an invitation to a party and the finest wine. You just go with the flow. Hidden in the charming countryside of Savelletri, the most exclusive seaside destination along the Apulian coast, Masseria Torre Abate Risi is a luxury countryside residence with This special travel guide has been created to show self-catered apartments and an authentic cave, perfect for holidays, retreats and events. you Puglia through the eyes of a local.

Masseria Torre Abate Risi - Contrada Cerasina 7, 72015 Fasano (BR), PUGLIA www.masseriatorreabaterisi.com 41 Explore

dine

DRINK

shop

DREAM

the city. In fact, residents Palazzo dell’Acquedotto Pugliese Bari from neighboring cities come here “Il Palazzo dell’Acqua” is a cultural for an evening of culture, dance, and landmark in Puglia, rich in geometric pat- music. The construction of this cultural terns, upholstery, frescoes and furniture landmark began in 1898 and took four that embody the shape of water, as the years to build, and from the start distin- vision of its commissioner was to bring guished itself for its rich program and water to Puglia and render the formerly Via Sparano extraordinary capacity to host more barren land fertile and prosperous. The The main street that runs from the than 2,000 spectators. The works of exterior reflects with historic, local archi- central station to the old town, this Verdi and Puccini first saw light here, tectural traditions, displaying exceptional pedestrian road plays host to both including those of Piccinni and Bellini, stone cutting skills seen principally in local, national and international brands. and unforgettable voices have filled the Trani, while inside are elaborate stylistic You’ll find a generous choice of shops theatre with the enchantment of song. patterns that discerning eyes will devour and haute couture boutiques, including with great appreciation. Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Max Mara, Open from 11:00 – 19:00 Prada and Gucci. Along the road are For info, tours & tickets: Via Salvatore Cognetti 36 plenty of cafes and local eateries, too. intricate arches and piazzas. The gleeful Tel: +39 080 9752 850 70121 Bari voices of the children playing in the Corso Cavour 12, 70121 Bari Tel: +39 0805 723 083 street echo in the air, the aromas of fondazionepetruzzelli.it/en/ aqp.it local street food demands your atten- ~ ~ tion, and the women singing traditional songs in local dialect while drying ho- Doppelgaenger Art Gallery Palazzo Fizzarotti memade orecchiette in the courtyards This contemporary art gallery opened Designed by architects Bernich and - this is not a movie set. Here, all roads its doors in 2012 and as the name Corradini in 1800, this one-of-a-kind lead to St. Nicholas Basilica, where the might suggest, offers two themes of architectural monument is built in Vene- relics of Saint Nicholas watch over Bari artistic enquiry: figurative art and tian Gothic style, and commissioned the Don’t miss the architectural masterpie- and its inhabitants to this very day. experimental video art, including finest artisans in Italy with teams of sculp- ce Palazzo Minuczzi, the ‘Cathedral of ~ installations and performances. tors, painters, mosaics, glass blowers and Commerce’ that was built in 1928 and The gallery is located in Palazzo blacksmiths each leaving their signature remains an everlasting symbol of Bari’s Teatro Petruzzelli Verrone, a medieval tower house in this privately owned property. Inside is rich Liberty-style architecture. This theatre holds a strong pride of turned noble Renaissance palace that a lush inner courtyard with the Fountain place to the local Barese that inhabit now serves as a living residence for of Neptune as the centerpiece. Private Via Sparano da Bari contemporary arts. events and exhibitions can be arranged 70121 Bari at the palace. ~ Via Verrone 8, Bari Tel: +39 392 820 3006 [email protected] The Old Town [email protected] By appointment only: A city within the city, Bari Vecchia (the doppelgaenger.it Tel: +39 080 521 2988 Old Town) is a maze of narrow alleys, ~ palazzofizzarotti.com The view from the womb of Grotte di Castellana.

42 43 C.A.M. Boutique TRANI built in order to protect the city from Set between the two souls of the city, attackers coming from the sea. It was the old and the new, CAM boutique one of Manfredi’s favorite residences, first opened its doors in 1920 as a the son and heir of the great emperor, tailor’s studio. The boutique proposes and was the chosen location for his La Uascezze fine collections for men and women royal wedding with the Princess Elena Grotte di Starting from its name (an expression of the highest sartorial criteria, with at- The Scolanova Synagogue of Epiro. Those exclusive nuptials in local Barese dialect that refers to tention to quality and finish. An address One of the four synagogues originally are commemorated today with a Castellana ‘the joy of feasting together around a worth saving. found in the ancient Jewish quarter, characteristic historical re-enactment in table with laden food’). La Uascèzze Veronero Caffé Shop the Scolanova Synagogue is a beautiful medieval costumes. Located on the north side of the Itria pays homage to the most authentic In the heart of Murat, Bari’s high-end Via Piccinni 68A, Bari example of Apulian Romanesque Valley, researches claim that this natural recipes in traditional Apulian cuisine. fashion district, Caffetteria Veronero is Tel: +39 080 521 8984 architecture. The synagogue was Piazza Manfredi Re 16, 76125 Trani heritage site formed more than 90 The menu features a range of classic a local coffee shop with high aesthetic [email protected] built in the mid-13th century and was Tel: + 39 0883 500 117 million years ago. Located more than dishes prepared in healthy yet ge- design that draws inspiration from the ~ seized by the church during a wave of ~ sixty meters under the earth’s surface nerous portions, with a selection of Apulian coast. Award-winning coffee are three kilometers of dimly lit trails, local gastronomy including soup and and original recipes are order of the Mimma Ninni The Cathedral of Trani bordered by natural stalactites, stalagmi- stews with vegetarian options, and the day, while the food menu includes A women’s boutique and concept store Dedicated to Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim, tes, fossils and immense slabs of icicles ‘Tiella Pugliese’ a meticulously cooked tasty appetizers, freshly squeezed that carries one-off pieces by Italian the Cathedral of Trani is another exam- dripping painstakingly slow in the deep casserole made of rice, potatoes and juices and green shakes, and cocktails designers and looks from the runways silence. Private tours can be booked in , each prepared to perfection, that will liven up the afternoon. Appre- of Saint Laurent, Celine, Balenciaga, advance, as well as private events. Our and then combined to create the ciated by locals, the café has received Dior, Comme Comme, and more. tip: book the Speleo Night tour after- casserole. several awards of excellence for the Accessories for men and women are hours followed by a candle-lit aperitivo high quality of its preparations and available in-store too. in a womb of the earth. Vico Corsioli 2, 70122 Bari excellent service. forced conversions in 1380, adopting Tel: +39 320 628 4295 the name Santa Maria in Scolanova. Opening hours: lauascezze.com 600 years later, it was returned to the Every day from 09:00 – 18:00 ~ Jewish community and has become an (ticket office closes at 17:30) active house of worship since 2005. Le Giare Restaurant Modest but of great visual impact, Piazzale Anelli Purity, elegance and refinement are the limestone temple features three 70013 Castellana Grotte the three key concepts of the “cult of windows on its eastern wall (one on Tel: +39 080 499 8221 quality” promoted by Le Giare each side of the Torah Ark), and is grottedicastellana.it dominated by a tympanum with the Star of David perched atop. Via Niccolò Piccinni 81, 70122 Bari ple of fine Romanesque architecture Tel: +39 080 523 9588 Opening hours: with Norman simplicity on the interior. veronero.it Mon, Wed, Fri – 10:30 – 12:30; Sun Original construction began in 1097 Ristorante Biancofiore Via Putignani 26, 70121 Bari & Holidays – 11:00 - 13:00 and was completed in the 13th century In the heart of the Old Town, perfectly Tel: +39 080 528 2921 Fri - Sat, reserved for prayer services using the typical “pietra di Trani”, an placed between the maze of alleys and [email protected] extremely light calcareous tuff which the waterfront, Ristorante Bianco- mimmaninnishop.com Via Scola Nova, 76125 Trani gives the building a soft pink color. Due fiore celebrates the icons of Apulian Bari. Based on the freshest seasonal ~ For info & tours: to its position by the sea, isolated from gastronomic heritage. A native in love ingredients, their ethical menu is a Boutique Luciana Tel: +39 393 375 7734 the other monuments in the historical with his city, the young chef Giacinto global road map that connects One of the city’s longest running bou- DEV Boutique (contact Iat Trani) center, the Cathedral radiates a defini- Fanelli creates recipes that unveil the to the Mediterranean Sea and tiques since the 1960s. The careful and Dev Boutique stands out for its four [email protected] tive presence, enhanced by the elegant most fascinating stories of his city. Fish from there to the four corners of the strategic research of unique pieces and wide, sparkling windows and the two 13th century bell tower that dominates and seafood take center stage with Earth. They have recovered forgotten accessories results in a perfectly crafted floors of refined floor space.U nder For more information: the infrastructure. traditional raw preparations such as ingredients and old world preparations offering by luxury brands, emerging the spotlight are the latest collections of Jewish Community of carpaccio and tartare, paired with the to create a holistic culinary experience talents and niche products. footwear, outerwear and accessories [email protected] Piazza Duomo, 76125 Trani freshest vegetables from the gardens that involves all the five senses. by Tod’s, Fay and Hogan. ~ Tel: +39 0883 500 293 of the prosperous countryside. Via Dante Alighieri 31, 70121 Bari ~ Corso Alcide De Gasperi 308 F Tel: +39 080 521 1886 Via Sparano 45-47, 70121 Bari The Castle of Trani Corso Vittorio Emanuele 13 70125 Bari lucianabari.com Tel: +39 080 5207088 Built in 1233 during the reign of Castel Del Monte 70122 Bari Tel: +39 080 5011383 ~ [email protected] Frederick II of Swabia as a hub for Castel Del Monte is a 13th century Tel: +39 080 523 5446 legiareristorante.it devboutique.com his network of fortresses, this castle citadel and castle situated atop a hill ristorantebiancofiore.it dominates the Bay of Trani and was in the region of . Imagined by

44 45 MATERA

Matera is the third oldest city in the world after Aleppo (Syria) and Jericho in the West Bank, with traces of settlement from the Stone Age. Its original name remains a mystery, although several theories trace its origin to the ancient Greek ‘Matheola’ to ‘Meteron’ (starry vault) and the Ionian word ‘Mather’ meaning ‘Earth Mother’. Whatever the origin and wherever it came from, it is an ancient city that was largely unknown to citizens of the world until the 1960s. Its long history of enduring strength and vulnerability custom tour and open-air dinners can philosophy follows a combination is emerging into the light, and changing be arranged, too. of the highest-quality local products, the face of the city and its inhabitants. innovative techniques and perfect wine 75100 Matera, Province of Matera pairings. These are the ingredients of parcomurgia.it Ego Quintessenza, a fine dining experience ~ An ambitious, young chef with more awarded with a Michelin star. than 10 years’ experience in the Emperor Frederick II who inherited cooking team have created a menu Architecture Tour industry Nicola Popolizio has created the lands of his mother, Constance of that offers a premium selection of fresh Via Nigrò 37, 76125 Trani Walk the Valley The Duomo? Built in 230 AD. While one of the finest eateries in the center Sicily, the visionary king left no testa- tartar to start and the freshest catch Tel: +39 0883 880948 A fascinating place to explore is the Roman style externally, the architects of Matera. Opened in 2016, E.G.O. ment to the reason for its construc- of the day as the main course. The quintessenzaristorante.it valley in between the Sassi environs. of time kept its Baroque soul. After (Enoteca, Gourmet, Origini) is a culmi- tion. Whether it was a defense fortress wine list includes a selection of local Beyond the two-karst valleys where the Benedictine monks colonized the grot- nation of three pillars of his gastronomic or a cultural center, the emperor’s harvests that certainly deserve a place settlement developed over the centuri- toes in the 7th century, the Byzantine philosophy: fine wine, refined prepara- enlightenment is very telling with on the table. Michele’s mother, Mrs. es, the domain of a rocky landscape. An monarchs marched in and built 150 tions and infinite love for the seasonal geometric excellence and harmonious Maria, prepares exquisite homemade ideal starting point for an early morning churches, excavating down into the products of his Lucanian motherland. architecture that is simply surreal. desserts in-house. or late afternoon hike along the Gravina bellies of the caves - an activity curtailed There are two routes to experience Explore the site with a guide. Hotspot Il Garbino al Mare di Matera, covering 30 kilometers of by the Normans in 1050 A.D. activity the ‘ego’; à la carte or via four tasting for photographers. Perhaps the perfect place for a relaxed canyo resulting from rock erosion over curtailed by the Normans in 1050 AD. drink and tapas by the sea. Book a se- centuries by its homonymous stream. Fast forward to the 16th century which Opening hours: afront table, just in time for the sunset, saw the opening of the Conservatory 1 April – 30 September every day and enjoy the outstanding view of the of Music - prestigious concerts are still from 10.15 - 19.45 Bay of Trani. Over a glass of Apulian held today. Yet, the ideal starting point (ticket office closes at 19.15) rosé or an intense Negroamaro, of an architectural tour would be the 17th century Palazzo Lanfranchi, as 6123 Andria, it highlights the period when Matera Province of Barletta-Andria-Trani became “the Shame of Italy”. Inside Tel: +39 0883 569 997 this museum is a collection of paintings casteldelmonte.beniculturali.it Via Ognissanti 18, 76125 Trani that leaves no visitor passive. So much ~ Tel: +39 0883 508402 wonder contrasts Matera’s dark side, corteinfiore.it Traces of human presence from the once claimed as “the Shame of Italy”. ~ Neolithic age mingle with natural wildlife Today, the “Architecture of Shame” is menus that feature signature dishes, shelters. After covering this terrain, among the top trails promoted by the regional twists, vegetarian/vegan frien- you can watch the sky change color. visitors approach the regional park of European Capital of Culture committee, dly options and the ‘Free Hands’ 6 or Quintessenza Accompany the moment with some Murgia Materana (Park of the Rupestrian but beside its murky past is a marvelous 8-course experience – all accompanied Ristorante Corteinfiore Four brothers unite to showcase fresh tapas. Churches of Matera), a pristine natural and mystical ancient city – above and by rich, homemade bread. Tucked in the courtyard of a majestic their passion for Apulian gastronomic landscape with canyons, streams, caves underground. 16th century palace, this restaurant heritage. Their prime goal is to sur- Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo 13, and important habitats, also dotted with Via Stigliani 44, 75100 Matera focuses on Mediterranean cuisine prise guests by sharing the abundance 76125 Trani the beautiful archaeological remains architectureofshame.org Tel: +39 392 903 0963 with contemporary innovations. of a typical southern Italian table. A Tel: +39 347 375 574 of medieval churches and 8th century egogourmet.it Michele Matera, patron of Ristorante minimalist setting with soft hues is frescoes carved into the rock. Travel Flip to page 68 for the calendar of ~ Corteinfiore, and his young, passionate simple yet welcoming. Their culinary designers are available to create a events and explore what’s on in Matera.

46 47 Vitantonio Lombardo exclusively Italian references of wine the sassi across the valley. Housed in the dramatic setting of a covering more than 20,000 kilometers millennia-old cave in the heart of the of vineyards, with tastings and cicchetti Via Conche 12 Rione Sassi, with a brilliant selection of (Venetian tapas) made according to 75100 Matera (Sasso Caveoso) minimalist décor and lighting installa- local recipes from Basilicata. Probably Tel: +39 0835 189 1014 tions, Vitantonio Lombardo Ristorante the coolest wine bar in Matera. aquatiohotel.com is the brainchild of the 30-something ~ eponymous chef, already with 20 Via Bruno Buozzi 12 years’ experience at the most presti- 75100 Matera Palazzo Del Duca gious gastronomical courts in Italy and Tel: +39 0835 314029 Perched atop of the Civita, traditio- abroad. Having returned to his native enotecadaitosi.it nally the highest-set and most noble region, out of the cave emerges a ~ neighborhood of the Sassi District, this tasting menu according to the season 14th century aristocratic palazzo is the and Chef Lombardo’s wild imagina- quintessence of elegance. The hotel is tion. The ‘menu degustazione’ features designed with a plethora of precious his famous ‘Pizza in Black’ and ‘Miseria materials such velvet, brass, crystal and e Nobiltà’ among several additional marble, and noble elements including masterpieces, accompanied by ‘Ricordi Aquatio Cave Luxury chandeliers, oversized headboards and Sourced from millennia-old olive trees in the most important region in Puglia, d’infanzia’ – all classic signatures for a Hotel & Spa stone bathtubs that embellish its ro- Olivhealth is the first organic extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) in Italy that offers a reason. Booking is mandatory. From its spectacular location of Sasso new approach to the intake of olive oil, specially designed for the wellbeing of Caveoso, Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel pregnant women, professional sports players and child development Via Madonna delle Virtù, 13/14 & Spa gives a 5-star twist to the all- 75100 Matera Italian hospitality concept of ‘albergo Tel: +39 0835 335475 diffuso’, a hotel located in various 100% Natural vlristorante.it historic buildings in a small community. 100% Organic ~ Carved into ancient tuff grottos and Monodose-Ready Sustainable Made of Recycled Material

oms. Whoever thought cave dwellers Enoteca Dai Tosi were artless are bound to discover the This award-winning winery is built magic of simplistic luxury. After a night’s inside a sasso in Matera, carved out sleep in one of the suites, each with its of the rock to relive the history and own interpretation of contemporary authenticity of the city while revealing outfitting – double showers,C orian High in Polyphenols a chic and modern minimalist winery bathtub, king-sized beds - the hotel an intake of 20 grams of olive oil helps to protect and shop on three levels with a furnished with contemporary, sleek experience includes regional dishes at blood lipids from oxidative stress amenities, the 35 rooms and suites Alcova Ristorante, wellness treatments instill a veritable sense of uniqueness and a wide array of specialty tours Rich Source of Vitamin in this ancient city. There is a 500 catered to different travelers, from square-meter spa and wellness center the adventurer to the history buff. A to protect cells from oxidative stress onsite, with a maximum of eight guests morning coffee in the sunshine, in the at a time, ensuring that it is never peaceful air overlooking the city, is High in Unsaturated Fat overcrowded. Staff will deliver news- priceless. to regulate healthy cholesterol levels in the blood papers and breakfast to your suite on request, while an à la carte lunch and Via Muro 50 Rich in Omega 3 dinner menu offer traditional dishes 75100 Matera a daily intake of just 2 grams from ALA (Alpha- single circular staircase that leads the from Basilicata, indoors or in private Tel: +39 0835 330 600 Linoleic Acid) helps to reduce “bad” cholesterol in experience. Brought to you by three outdoor dining. If available, the best palazzodelducamatera.it blood and regulator normal cholesterol levels Venetian ‘Tosi’ (local dialect for ‘guys’), room in the house sits at the very top, the wine cellar carries more than 250 with breathtaking views of the city and

48 www.olivhealth.it FASANO L’Officina dell’Essere freshest local produce, game and dairy This holistic workshop and wellness products. Booking recommended. center in Fasano is owned and managed by Filippo and Luana, a Via Santa Teresa 36, 72015 Fasano couple who moved from Bologna Tel: +39 080 332 4666 family home; each turn and element Metaponto Golf Club to Fasano eight years ago to solidify ~ AROUND MATERA anticipates the needs and desires of its Half way between and Bari, San Domenico Golf their shared love for a life guided by guests. You’re practically sleeping in the the Riva dei Tessali Golf Club boasts an Home to prestigious tournaments energy, balance, inner peace and L’Oasi del Riccio Palazzo Margherita hands of creative genius; the suites were 18-hole course (par 71) designed by the such as the National Open and wellbeing. Alongside personal growth Located on the beach of Savelletri, designed and decorated by the Coppola renowned British architect John Dering the Italian PGA Championship, the counseling, therapeutic massage and this locale is famous among locals and family, where frescoed walls and ceilings Harris, home to the South Tessali Open 18-hole golf course with a par of 72 pilates classes (private and groups), connoisseurs as the place for seafood. are complemented by a subdued sexi- and regular stage of the Challenge Tour. maximizes the gameplay experience the couple has developed ‘emotional L’Oasi del Riccio pays homage to the ness, visible in lavish décor and tasteful After an enthusing match play between with the slopes of the Itria Valley on pilates’, a new method that combines sea urchin, and the unquestioned king textile (Suite 4 was designed by Sofia charming pinewood and Mediterra- one side and the Adriatic Sea on the techniques from, yoga, postural of Apulian tradition in “crudo di mare”, Coppola herself). nean scrub overlooking the shores of other. Its exposure to unpredictable gymnastics and holistic rituals - the eli- the raw seafood platter. As gourmands the , you can enjoy midday winds from the sea and intricate xir of long life. Trial lessons available. will go into raptures over the freshest The secluded outdoor pool is infused repose at the club facilities that include design make the course particularly While the holistic studio is certainly sea urchins with crispy white bread, Situated in Bernalda (a province of Mate- with floral essences and out from the the Club House restaurant, snack bar challenging. After an enthusing game, the ideal space, it is also possible enthusiasts should try the second ra), this historic family house and luxury kitchen is a menu of rustic, homemade and swimming pool. head to the Clubhouse for a cup of to book a treatment at the client’s signature dish, Sea Urchin Linguine. hotel sits atop a charming hilltop town cooking made fresh all day, every day - if coffee or an excellent lunch. location. No packages or activity Olive oil dipping is a cultural pastime, in the region of Basilicata, an authentic it rains the backup plan is a screening registrations required. so join in. Booking recommended. and untouched region, mostly unknown room, movie library and a host of outside of Italy. Francis Ford Coppola, contemporary technology for haute Via Gronchi 16, 72015 Fasano SP90, 72015 Fasano famous for directing The Godfather, travelers. The property is located just Tel: +39 393 335 6724 Tel: +39 339 116 544 stumbled on this derelict 19th century ten minutes from a coast of white sandy ~ ~ palazzo while discovering his roots in beaches, and offers a different way of Bernalda. With its former glory graciou- experiencing the south of Italy as it is Ristorante da Silvè sly restored, the palazzo is more like a within easy reach of Matera while also A veritable gem in the heart of town, close to the region of Puglia, which you Savelletri di Fasano Silve’ is a must-stop for local Fasanese can easily explore by day. Contrada Pizzica 72010 Fasano traditions. A mother-and-son team, Str. Prov. Pezzica - S. Salvatore Tel: +39 0804829200 La Locanda di Martumè Silvestro the inquisitive host, runs the Corso Umberto I 64 75012 Bernalda sandomenicogolf.com This quaint restaurant in the historical local eatery alongside his 69-year- 75012 Bernalda Tel: +39.0835.748916 ~ center of Fasano embodies the old feisty mother, the queen of the Tel: +39 0835 549060 metapontogolf.it serene charm of the town. During the thefamilycoppolahideaways.com Masseria Pettolecchia Il Lido summer, tables are set up along the palazzomargherita.com Opening in June 2019, the private pavement and narrow alleyways for beach club is located in the most al fresco dining under the lamplights. exclusive part of the Apulian coastline. In this small-town family atmosphere, Contrasting the aquamarine waters traditional Fasanese cuisine is inspired and all-white setup, the beach club by the rhythm of the seasons, with the is outfitted with ultra-lux, sleek furnishings, cushioned beds and sun loungers for an all-day resort experience. On location are open-air massage treatments, changing rooms kitchen. No menu here; have a seat & showers, yoga classes (on request), outside in the piazzetta and Silvestro a boutique, as well as a seaside bar will take you on a gastronomic journey and restaurant that serves lunch and with a generous selection of starters dinner to the highest standard. Pre- that continue with homemade qui- booking is mandatory. ches, pasta and wonderful dessert - all accompanied by local wine. Booking SP 90, 72015 Fasano required. Seaside of Savelletri www.masseriapettolecchiaillido.com Via Tinella 18, 72015 Fasano View of the Lucanian Dolomites in Puglia. ~ Tel: +39 331 722 6444 ~

50 51 SAVELLETRI fasano

vegan and charcoal croissants. Good location for remote work. VAIR SPA In the amber light of hundreds of can- Via S. Francesco di Paola 14, dles, the tranquil spaces of Vair Spa light Caffè Bella Napoli 72015 Fasano up with a warm and peaceful energy - Overlooking Piazza Ciaia (town Tel: +39 333 195 2763 you can almost hear the flickering of the square), this elegant and ~ with a solid reputation for its attentive candles. Defined as ‘true’ in local dialect, wine bar is the place to see and service and particularly innovative the philosophy at the award-winning collections for men and women, Vair Spa is centered on providing the including shoes and accessories. most accurate and personalized treat- ment, unique to each guest. a variety of guest experiences to inspire and experiment with Vair Spa’s new Via Forcella 75, 72015 Fasano Each year Borgo Egnazia unveils a new you to bliss featuring nutrition and wellbeing approach. Angelini English Tailor’s Tel: +39 080 439 1313 concept of hospitality, focusing on a spe- fitness activities as well as a meditation A series of treatments should be Located in a wing of the historic cupertino.it cific aspect of the in-resort experience: room, a new cryotherapy cabin, and booked to give your body and mind Palazzo Pezzolla, Angelini English ~ 2019 is the year of “Happiness Travel” wellbeing programs. One of these is the adequate time for inspired synchronicity. Tailor’s boutique in Fasano blends the a journey of deep connections with innovative Aroma Lab developed with We are, after all, creatures of habit. sobriety of English-style clothing with 9 Assoluto nature, local authenticity and meaningful psychologist and international expert in Happiness should certainly be one of be seen especially at aperitif time, Housed in one of the most elegant human relationships, all of which contri- aromatherapy, Luca Fortuna. them. when locals gather for great cocktails palazzos in the town of Fasano, the bute to our happiness levels. To determine the guest’s subconscious matched with an array of seasonal chic boutique boasts beautifully- According to the “Science of Happiness” emotions, the team of skilled therapists gastronomic treats including Beluga preserved frescoed ceilings, eloquent when we are happy, we’re likely to live carry out an olfactory smell and memo- caviar, Cantbrian and fresh walls and original floors - a museum longer, be more creative and cultivate ry test, used to develop a tailor-made . It’s also a top address to take space in itself. The palatial setting stronger relationships. Based on this experience. Each program is tailored breakfast, and while there’s no Wi-Fi, makes an impressive backdrop for philosophy, the team at Vair Spa has according to the results, with a unique you can still watch the world pass an equally impressive collection of launched a new ‘Wellness Hub’ with physical and spiritual revival path. You’re you by. seasonal womenswear including now one step closer to happiness. Jucca, Dondup, L’Autrechose, Rada’, Among the many outdoor activities Piazza Ciaia 7, 72015 Fasano Les Coyote De Paris, and Saint Barth is a ‘laughter class’ with a “Laughter Tel: +39 080 442 2464 among others. Maestro” - through special dance, ~ theatre and music techniques that rely on Puglia’s traditional roots of popular Open to hotel guests and visitors. Cafeteria music, a surge of ‘happy’ hormones Booking is mandatory. Cafeteria is one of the oldest and the best of Italian tailoring traditions, refills you from head to toe. Luckily, vairspa.com most respected cafes in town. Its offering a wide range of high-end in the sublime surroundings of a truly Strada Comunale Egnatia minimalist interiors feature a comfor- menswear, footwear and creative magical landscape it is easy to shift gears 72015 Savelletri, Fasano table lounge area at the back. Locals accessories. Brands include Borriello, Gallo, Barba Napoli, Entre Amis, and Church’s footwear. wine, while the chef’s selection of tapas sharing. Savor it all with a special bottle is a longer way to go and perfect for of rosé. Booking recommended. Corso Vittorio Emanuele 30-32 72015 Fasano Osteria del Porto Via del Porto 19, 72015 Savelletri Tel: +39 080 441 4607 Located at the port of Savelletri, this Tel: +39 338 280 5468 ~ osteria is famous for consistent quality, osteriasavelletri.it hospitality and traditional recipes. Unas- ~ Cupertino suming and laid-back, the marine-styled For special occasions, locals and restaurant offers two seating options: Quattro Creative Wine Bar line up at the bar each morning for visitors from nearby cities know that outdoors on the wooden deck or in- The go-to spot among hip locals and coffee, where the air is filled with Cupertino is the place to go. What Corso G. Garibaldi 38 - 40 doors in the air-conditioned space. For internationals for après –beach drinks, the fragrance of perfectly roasted started as a shoemaker’s shop in the 72015 Fasano an easy lunch, the alle vongole Quattro is the brainchild of an ambi- espresso and a selection of freshly ba- 1940s transformed into a family- Tel: +39 080 968 29 76 (with clams) hits the spot with a glass of tious team of four young locals with ked pastries, including whole , business now in its third generation,

52 53 their own interpretation of Apulian most-loved recipes: noodles with gourmet. A particularly creative fresh shrimp, cuttlefish, mussels, and swordfish - which can be perfectly paired with a bottle of Apulian rosé. Booking required.

Via Eroi del Mare 8 72016 Tel: +39 080 482 0021 lunch and dinner, featuring fresh fish ristorantealbuco.it and flavorful gourmet pizza - their ~ speciality. Locker rooms and showers make it easy to shift from day to night, wine list is paired with an interesting Amare and the boutique has beachwear and culinary offering, where traditional Owned by a young gentleman from seaside necessaires. ingredients take on a contemporary Fasano who also runs one of the twist. The here is exceptional. area’s most successful live-music bars Contrada Pantanelli, Excellent choice of mixology cocktails. (Bloody Mary), the harborside restau- 70043 Province of Monopoli Zehava Kronkop brings international Dinner reservations are mandatory. rant, Amare, indicates both its loca- Tel: +39 347 643 5693 tion ‘at sea’ and a love for the bounty www.lepalmebeachclub.it experience, luxurious style and a generous Via degli Scavi 4, 72015 Savelletri of the Adriatic Sea. Professional and Tel: +39 347 305 9691 cordial service can be expected at this approach to Interior design in Puglia. quattro-creative-wine-bar.business. seafood hotspot, with an ambiance site/ that is suitable for relaxed romantic PUTIGNANO dinners or a night out with friends. Seafood is, of course, the order of the day. Go for classic grilled fish TORRE CANNE as the main course and a variety of fasano shared starters, paired with a bottle of regional white wine before ending Angelo Sabatelli with cocktails. Nice atmosphere Among the most renowned Italian and attentive service, even during chefs, Angelo Sabatelli is a sensation the warm summer nights. Booking in the culinary world. His restaurant recommended. is set in a renovated grotto in the Al Buco Apulian fisherman Cam- Via Eroi del Mare 115 panella opened this historic locale 72015 Torre Canne back in the 1970s, transforming the Tel: +39 393 904 1002 seaside cave into a warehouse with the help of his wife, Pasquarella. Since then, the restaurant has undergone renovations and now, in its modern, CAPITOLO

historic center of Putignano – a quiet town off the radar – where minimalist décor and soft lighting offset with bold culinary compositions by the Michelin- Le Palme Beach Club starred chef. First-time visitors will Opened just last year, Le Palme is a si- enjoy the tasting menu that shows off ster property of Coccaro Beach Club his masterpieces made with Puglia’s and is laid-back hideaway with a large, finest raw ingredients.B ooking is aesthetic interiors clients can enjoy shaded lounge area, wide beach beds obligatory. a local dining experience on the and hammocks, private cabanas, and veranda with freshly cooked fish and a private sandy beach with oversized Via S. Chiara 1, 70017 Putignano seafood. Entrées are consistently sun loungers. The cocktail bar offers Tel: +39 080 405 2733 [email protected] | www.zkronkop.com | +972528512828 | zkronkop.design good and attentively prepared. fresh fruit shakes and signature angelosabatelliristorante.com The ‘Sea Symphony’ is one of their cocktails and the restaurant serves ~ Villa Mira, . Photo: Tal Kronkop

55 produces Primitivo and Malvasia reds, – simple table-setups that let you Porto Marzà white and sparkling wine, all focus on the culinary course. Fish and This small private beach is an of which are sampled over lunch or seafood are highlights of the menu, uncontaminated and authentic spot dinner. By appointment only. with some of the best, fresh shrimp close to the port town of Monopoli. around. The squid ink tagliolini is A little postcard from paradise, its Scinuà Via Nino Bixio 3 handmade and highly recommended. When Luigi Pugliese decided to carve Casalini 72014 his own culinary path with a new Tel +39 348 2797370 Via Roma 11 eatery, he focused on tradition as his vinisemeraro.com 70044 Polignano a Mare one core value. Seven years strong, Barba Baffi e Pellicce Tel: +39 080 424 2476 his restaurant is a respected address Literally translated to “Beard, Mousta- ristoranteantichemura.it in Putignano, both among locals and ches and Furs” the gourmet bistro bar POLIGNANO visitors. His meticulous interpretation is the brainchild of Toto and Luciano of Apulian staples is irresistible, with a Petronelli, two ambitious brothers A MARE skillful use of organic, zero-kilometer who, inspired by their travels, rustic beauty and simplicity makes this produce and a wide range of vegeta- a no-fuss location that promises an rian and vegan options. La Casa del Mojito easy-going break by the sea, complete Tucked in a narrow alley of the histori- with beach bar service. Limited sun Via Santa Lucia 18, 70017 Putignano ducts become mouthwatering pies, cal center, La Casa del Mojito is a real loungers and umbrellas mean that Tel: +39 080 405 8430 stews - an effortless delight for vege- Puro locals’ darling. There is a penetrating, only a selected few guests have access tarians, while offering tasty fish and Sushi aficionados who have sampled fragrant aroma of mint in the air, to the beach and its facilities. tartare options too. Expect a wine list Japanese cuisine in international capi- intertwining with the smell of summer Pre-booking required. LOCOROTONDO from regional vineyards in concert tals are in for a surprise. The owners’ and the buzz of people perched on with the gastronomic experience. understanding of how sushi ought to the stools outside. From happy hour Contrada Santo Stefano decided to open a new concept in onwards, aficionados flock to this 70043 Monopoli their native Locorotondo. The result Via dei Giardini 36 small bar to savor an outstanding ran- bagnomarza.it is an innovative enogastronomic 72014 Cisternino ge of variations on mojito with a wide experience where mixology cocktails Tel: +39 080 247 1829 choice of fresh, generous tapas too. 20M2 meet gourmet and biodynamic dfood.it This cute little wine bar is part of a wines are enhanced by gourmet Via Annunziata 19 successful regional franchise thanks tapas - all infused with live music and 70044 Polignano a Mare to the attention it gives to customer great atmosphere in a cozy location Tel: +39 342 825 4061 Bar Caffè del Corso that could easily hold its own in any The family-run Caffè del Corso has cosmopolitan metropolis. be, and how else the raw food expe- many souls that share one distinctive Enoteca Pierfranco Semeraro rience can be is evident in the chefs’ MONOPOLI feature: relentless high-quality coo- Via Vittorio 1 There’s a bit of exploring and sam- mastery over compositions and quality king. Located on an elegant street in 70010 Locorotondo pling to be done here. Located in the - always relying on the abundance the Borgo Murattiano neighborhood, Tel: +39 328 617 7334 outskirts of Cisternino, where wine is of Puglia’s raw materials. The ‘Sushi the café-restaurant-caterer provides a bbep.it deeply rooted in the region’s history, Special’ is a must-try dish composed full-fledged food and beverage expe- of five in-house masterpieces, and the Porto Ghiacciolo rience, from delicious artisanal pastries Wagyu sashimi melts in your mouth. Located near the remains of the at breakfast and the afternoon sweet CISTERNINO Special orders for private dinners can Benedictine abbey of Santo Stefano, tooth, to pre-dinner cocktails & tapas be arranged. Booking required. this little port is home to an intimate and themed dinners too. experience. The local branch, Panini inlet with a small shoreline and calm, e poi…, features warm, well-finished Via S. Vito 15-17 crystal waters. Ideal for an early mor- Corso Umberto I 58 interiors, ideal for a relaxed evening 70044 Polignano a Mare ning swim or late afternoon dip in the 70043 Monopoli while enjoying a gourmet sandwich, Tel: +39 080 403 8044 sea followed by a chic picnic basket Tel: +39 080 321 9778 indulging in the local delicacies or Giardini 36 puro-sushi.com/ for sunset cocktails –a great location caffedelcorsomonopoli.it sipping a craft beer or a glass of local Rising from the grounds of a family- ~ for private events, too. The beach is wine. run organic farm, Giardini 36 is an Enoteca Semeraro is a family-owned accessible by sails or visiting from the experimental eatery with a wide array and managed winery that harvests its Ristorante Antiche Mura coast. A small resto-bar serves light Via Nardelli 71 of generous Apulian tapas with a crea- handpicked grapes using traditional One of the most atmospheric eateries snacks and drinks. 70010 Locorotondo tive interpretation. Guests may dine methods combined with Mozart’s in town with professional service Tel: +39 080 968 3953 at “Table of Friendship” as it is called, masterpieces to bond with the wines and a relaxed environment. The old- Spiaggia di Porto Ghiacciolo 20m2.it or the second dimly lit room with just every day for three hours. Led by school restaurant retains pride of place Contrada Santo Stefano, ~ four tables. Fresh, homegrown pro- Pierfranco Semeraro, the winery with exposed walls and rustic elegance 70043 Monopoli

56 57 Inspire SEEK AND YE SHALL FIND Isabel Marant, Herno, Valentino, and Les Hommes. Two additional CAROVIGNO Sunseeker Italy features the ‘Sam K’ historic old town, cafes and shops. The locations in Ostuni and Savelletri. luxury yacht for a southern Mediterra- resort town of Taormina offers a com- nean dream that extends to the Apulian bination of open-sea snorkeling and Alchemico Bar e Cose Via T. Col. Pasquale Camicia 39/A, Amore Boutique coast cultural engagement up in the historic Right from its opening Alchemico 70043 Monopoli The eye-catching ensembles in the town. The Belmond’s two properties – Bar e Cose became a hotspot in Tel: +39 080 802070 window display of this contempora- Travelers wanting to cruise the southern Sant’Andrea and Grand Hotel Timeo Monopoli’s nightlife scene. It’s got malibuconceptstore.it ry boutique contrast with the historic Osteria Casale Ferrovia Mediterranean and explore the shores – are exceptional picks for culinary op- that big-town vintage flair and lively fabric of Ostuni’s streets. The con- This family-run restaurant is located of Puglia can pack their bags and board tions. When the sun rises again, you’ll cept store offers a handpicked selec- in an unconventional location: at the Sunseeker Yachts’ sea-chopping ‘Sam be off to the Aeolian Islands, where the OSTUNI tion of high-end bijoux and accesso- edge of the road by the Carovigno K’. The hand-built 26.3 meter-long luxu- pace is even slower. ‘Swim as you go’ ries and a collection of womenswear train station, bookended with endless ry yacht has four cabins that accommo- mode is on from sunrise to sunset; the that make for signature staples in the olive groves - surreal is common date up to eight guests with one master only breaks are for breakfast, fresh fish in Puglia. Set in the warehouse of suite, one VIP stateroom and two ca- and aperitivo on board, and a sugge- a 1930s olive mill, natural sunlight bins. On board are three crewmembers sted hop to the volcanoes around the DISH highlights the star-shaped vaults and for a relaxed and effortless luxury sailing islands. The cruise back to Malta be- The enchanting view of Ostuni is the interiors infuse vintage accessories experience. Air conditioning and Wi-Fi gins, with an overnight stop at Dwejra perfect contrast to this experimental with contemporary edge. Run by are available on board, with wakeboard – a fantastic stop for dramatic coastal atmosphere that just attracts. ‘This Giuseppe (the sommelier) and his and scuba diving accessories, two sea formations and colors – perfect for di- must be the place’ for mixology wife Maria (the chef), the kitchen bobs and fishing equipment. Interiors ning under the stars. cocktails, tasty tapas and mingling is based on local raw provisions are sleek and elegant with sumptuous Time flies when you’re having fun, so with the locals. Things happen here, from the territory, fusing tradition sofas, comfortable sunbeds and indoor you might want to consider extending particularly around the bar with a with modern adaptations. Booking and outdoor dining options for a ‘day the journey another week. The two-we- three-story treasure trove of fine seasoned traveler’s wardrobe. And, recommended. to night’ homely environment, ideal for ek, fully-serviced cruise offers a ‘slow spirits and rare, precious liqueur. as perfume is an extremely intimate groups of family and friends. travel’ approach, covering the same dialogue with the person who wears routes as the week-long itinerary in Corso Pintor Mameli 1 it, there are at least 70 varieties to The itineraries are fully customizable for addition to stops at the island of Capri, 70043 Monpoli explore, including home fragrances reach client with long weekends, week Olbia (Sardinia) and the island of Mal- Tel: +39 388 933 1723 and candles. long or two-week charter options, ena- ta, among Europe’s most exclusive and bling you to extend holidays from Pu- emerging new destinations. Via Pola 70, 72017 Ostuni glia, or include stops along the Apulian Tel: +39 0831 302497 coast en route from Malta to Sicily. A 7-day cruise plus expenses (high season) is pri- kitchen. Seasonal, local ingredients profumiamore.it ced at €56,000; low reason rates start at €45,000 dictate Chef Stefano Carrus’ menu, ~ Embarking from the Apulian coast is Malibù Concept Store who pays careful attention to the available at various marinas, and a For luxury charters: A space dedicated to cutting-edge flavor and aromas that characterize Enoteca Asciano one-week itinerary could cover the Tre- Sunseeker Italy Srl fashion and avant-garde creativity, each season, from the land to the What started in 1960 as a candy miti Islands, a stop in Salento and sai- +39 0185 30 53 17 Malibu Concept Store is the address sea. In this gastronomic laboratory, store turned into a star-studded ling around the heel to Porto Cesareo, +39 366 144 0325 for luxury brands and haute couture deliberately designed with sobriety, family business, earning a spot as the known as the ‘Maldives of Italy’. The [email protected] for men and women with a wide stop and feel the textures, linger on place for delicacies while searching horizon is distinctly Apulian with 60 mil- sunseeker-italy.com range of brands including Givenchy, the essences that arise and remain for the perfect bottle to complement lion olive trees spread across the land, sensitive to the quality of the product their dinner. Start off an exquisite countless grottoes and hidden inlets in this culinary experience. Booking pastry and allow Mr. Pino’s expertise that are ideal for lunch stops, snorkeling required. and fine taste to guide you in the and diving. You can follow the itinera- cellar, packed floor to ceiling with Via Stazione 1, S.P. 34 ries in this magazine for inspiration and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 37 Italian wines, French champagne and Tel: +39 0831 990025 plan some strategic stops for culinary 72017 Ostuni fine spirits. casaleferrovia.it and cultural experiences. Tel: +39 347 2499860 ~ From Malta, the journey starts from dishrestaurant.it Piazza Italia 27, 72017 Ostuni Portomaso towards Sicily with a stop Tel: +39 0831 302132 at Capo Passero for a swim before do- enotecaasciano.it cking in Siracusa, a Sicilian gem with a

58 MASTER of THE HOUSE

One of the most ambitious luxu- before you like plush carpets. The tains the masseria’s historic charm space to rest and unwind. Ensui- bask in the sun by the swimming ry hospitality initiatives in Puglia, historic masseria once belonged while infusing classic and contem- te amenities include international pool, or lunch on the patio. The Masseria Pettolecchia La Resi- to a local nobleman Signor Pal- porary touches with rare pieces satellite TV, air conditioning and outdoor gym is equipped with denza is a private luxury estate mieri, and has been beautifully from the owner’s private collec- electric automation systems with Technogym facilities, and a set of located in the exclusive resort preserved and carefully restored tion. Set on two floors, each suite touch-screen technology. bicycles is perfect for exploring area of Savelletri along the pristine to respect its history and original has its own private entrance with Al fresco dining options include the paths in between the olive Apulian coast. Since its opening features with exposed walls, stai- access to the surrounding gar- the outdoor garden and swim- groves before cruising toward the in 2015 and under the ownership rwells and arches at every turn. dens, outdoor swimming pool and ming pool patio, and a serviced sea for a glimpse of the glistening and management of the Pettolec- From all perspectives, the scene- large sunroof terraces with ma- bar corner where cocktails can Adriatic and a refreshing swim at chia Group, the property has been ry is captivating and sometimes gnificent sea views. Every setting be prepared. La Residenza is fully the private beach club, Il Lido, recognized among the most ro- surreal; it seems far removed from has been carefully considered to equipped with all services and VIP exclusively for guests of La Resi- mantic and exclusive destinations anything European, yet it is distin- create a relaxing and comfortable amenities, and offers Wi-Fi and a denza. in Europe, an idyllic location for ctly southern Mediterranean. multimedia sound system exten- It is a magical setting where time specials weddings and family ho- Expect another level of hospitality. ded to all areas of the property. is not merely past; it is recreated lidays alike. La Residenza is undeniably ele- What makes the experience uni- every moment. Whatever your heart desires is gant yet laid back, sophisticated que at La Residenza is a holiday essentially one request away. The yet accessible, demanding yet that moves totally at your pace dedicated staff at La Residenza effortless, welcoming guests of and lifestyle. Guests can sojourn La Residenza is available will tend to everything from the great diversity to enjoy maximum by the heated pool, dine outdoors exclusively for weekly-rentals basics to the extraordinary - all flexibility. The space will surely in bathrobes, or explore Puglia’s arranged by request and custom adapt to your rhythm and yet the treasures with the help of the in- as a property buy-out with tailored. sense of peace that filters gently house concierge. A new menu dedicated staff services included. When you arrive here, you can under your skin, will change your can be curated each day with the Private events, weddings and To book La Residenza: breathe a sigh of relief: you’re wel- perception of time. chef or you can request the pre- special requests are submitted pettolecchialaresidenza.com comed back home. Interiors exude an authentic sence of a Michelin-starred mae- directly to the property. The masseria stands gracefully home environment designed to stro for the night. You choose the This summer, the Pettolecchia Masseria Pettolecchia amid its surrounding fertile land, the highest standards with a cozy reason and the rhythm. Group is set to open the region’s La Piccola with centenary olive trees that lounge and TV room, dining room, You’ll want to be everywhere in most exclusive seaside beach pettolecchialapiccola.com club, Il Lido, as well as a new cover eight hectares of precious fully-equipped kitchen and five the same moment; catch the sun- Masseria Pettolecchia earth before reaching the seafront bedroom suites that can accom- set on the rooftop terrace, wander seafront luxury masseria, Il Lido and beautiful lawns that unfolds modate ten guests. The space re- in the olive groves, linger in bed, La Piccola. pettolecchiaillido.com Via degli Acaya 2, 73010 Lecce Altri Menti Tel: +39 0832 092601 A quaint boutique in the heart of the brosrestaurant.it historic center, it might be a bit hard Federico Primiceri at first to understand what exactly is The young goldsmith inherited his for sale from the interesting artwork, se recipes with a setting reminiscent father’s love of handcrafted jewelry, a installations, sunglasses, swimwear, LECCE of an everyday, Apulian residence well-known artisan from the town of home decor and even furniture pieces and high-quality raw materials in an Nardò, where Federico himself began - basically, everything here is up for authentic Mediterranean ambiance. Laurus Cocktail Bar to experiment. After traveling to Milan purchase. The collection of sunglasses Its effortless simplicity is something to Off the common road, the mixologists and Vicenza to develop his artistic is impressive, with limited pieces appreciate. at this intimate cocktail lounge in the aptitude, Federico launched his own by Haze New York, Thierry Lasry Baroque heart of Lecce concoct some brand and his jewelry has already been and Caroline Abram, as well some Cortili Aperti Via Benedetto Cairoli 25 impressive cocktails to accompany featured on the pages of international interesting handmade handbags and (Open Courtyards) 73100 Lecce great conversation. Dim lighting publications and on haute couture beachwear for women. Every calendar year welcomes the pink seafood salad to the seared fish Tel: +39 0832 300456 runways. In an edgy boutique in the return of open courtyards and the on toast, for example. Contemporary visit website for estate visits historic center of Lecce, Federico Via G. Palmieri 30, 73100 Lecce most beautiful residences in Lecce, Mediterranean cuisine is served in the tormaresca.it/restaurant Primiceri designs and creates his luxury Tel: +39 0832 240682 and across the countryside of Salento. bistro lounge or the dining room with ~ Certainly one can appreciate the the latter better suited for dinner. As architecture from the outside, but it goes in Puglia, sharing plates are the Bros’ Around Lecce imagine going behind closed doors. best way to go. High-quality seasonal Chef Floriano Pellegrino is only 29 Organized by the Associazione ingredients, interesting consistencies years of age but his confidence in and creative interpretations keep the kitchen is tantalizing, with one locals coming back for more. and candles provide just the right Via Vito Fazzi 15/23, 73100 Lecce ambiance with only 10 seats at the Cipolliane Caves Tel: +39 320 8034258 bar and a small lounge area. Led by (Grotte Cipolliane) alexristorantelecce.it head bartender Antonio Poeh, even jewelry collections using the highest- Sentiero delle Cipolliane is a beautiful ~ the most seasoned traveler is in for a grade gemstones, always referring to two-kilometer-long trekking path in cocktail surprise. If you like some spice the importance of traditions techniques Salento that passes villas on rugged Tormaresca Vino e Cucina in your spirit, ask to try the El Pareso instilled by his father while infusing his cliffs, historic relics of ancient farms Dimore Storiche Italiane and the This family-run winery was establi- cocktail. distinct, innovative vision. and natural Mediterranean landscapes, Municipality of Lecce, the villas in shed in 1934 with 170 hectares of vi- and ends with stunning sea views from the heart of Lecce will leave you neyard at the Serranova Castle estate, Vicolo Boemondo 26, 73100 Lecce Via Leonardo Prato 20, 73100 Lecce a complex of Ice Age caves situated enamored and inspired, not just by located in the oasis of Torre Guaceto, Tel: +39 392 261 2893 Tel: +39 0832 179 8263 the overwhelming beauty but also for one of Puglia’s most picturesque For bookings: federicoprimiceri.it the story of each family. The city of spots. In such an enchanting position, [email protected] ~ Lecce also plans to open monuments it is no wonder that their Negro- ~ and churches that are currently closed red wine is an equal match White 7 to the public. The 25th edition will be in experience – their Graticciaia is Quanto Basta Something in the window display of held in Lecce on 19 May 2019. probably the best you’ll find in Puglia. Michelin-star to back up his culinary Well after the sun sets in Lecce, this shop is bound to catch your eye. wizardry and a ‘Rising Star of the locals usually take to the streets for The refined, good taste of the bou- For the full program: Year’ 2018 award shaking up the post-dinner cocktails and spirits. This tique’s shop owners attract a host of thirty meters above sea level. The adsi.it walls of this energetic locale in Lecce. neighborhood bar is one of the top local Leccese and internationals. You’ll cave walls and floors are full of fossils, .lecce.it High in the ranks of Italian-bred chefs, addresses in town, attracting profes- find great staples for men and women so visitors are asked to tread carefully. the culinary journey is distinct and sionals who live and work in the city from Italian fashion houses and The path starts from the Ciolo Fjord unconventional, attracting diners who and the hip students who altogether international labels that stand out from and ends at Torre Porto Marina di enjoy experimenting with textures mix and mingle – a bunch of cultured conventional high street shopping, Novaglie with helpful signage, and is and flavors from the Mediterranean spirits coming together to create the including pieces from the collections of easily walkable for adults and children. countryside to the depths of the sea pulse of Lecce. Despite the crowds, Alexander Wang, Fay, Chanel, Boglioli, The best times are early morning or Alex Ristorante and back. There is nothing standard in warm hospitality and service do not Maffei and ETRO among others. late afternoon as the trekking path lasts A pleasant stop for lunch or a any dish, from presentation to taste, fail, with expertly made cocktails approximately two hours. late-night dinner, Alex Ristorante is evident in the ‘palette neutralizing’ crafted with utmost care and attention. Via Nazario Sauro 26, 73100 Lecce run by the duo Alessandro Libertini alphabet soup to the ‘F***ing Cold’ Tel: +39 0832 247902 SP 358, and Alessandra Civilla who make Now, their wine is matched with a dessert. Via Marco Basseo 29, 73100 Lecce white7.it 73034 (LE) everything a little different, from the creative revisiting of traditional Lecce- Tel: +39 347 008 3176 ~

62 63 Salento

vors of the Adriatic. are also a Castello Di Ugento promising route, with special toppings A visionary project, that of Massimo that are frankly hard to turn down. d’Amore and Diana E. Bianchi, restoring Taverna del Porto their family owned property and turning A veritable Apulian tavern on the co- Via Cristoforo Colombo 121 it into a destination where hospitality, ast of Salento, the culinary experience 73029 Tricase Porto (LE) culture and gastronomy come together at this seafront location starts with cri- Tel: +39 0833 775 336 in the beautiful region of Salento. ~ Their generous hospitality is reflected everywhere: the luxury boutique hotel March. Here you will experience the the rich soil, dry climate and calca- Ultima Spiaggia delle Cesine has nine suites and rooms, and while en- quality of zero-kilometer produce using reous clay, the Primitivo, Negroamaro, It’s not easy to find but with a bit of distance from one another, affording cased by the castle’s 17th century walls ingredients from the castle’s 18th century and Malvasia Nera grapes effort, you’ll be happy you did. Loca- more space and comfort to guests. each space is a contemporary hideaway garden, abundant in fruit, vegetables are able to flourish.G rapes are able ted at the edge of the Cesine World Showers, changing rooms and Wi-Fi decorated with Italian designers alongsi- and herbs, as well as from the dedicated to flourish. Wine tasting events can be Wildlife Fund (WWF) Nature Reserve are available here, too. The rustic chic de rare vintage and family pieces. Room nearby farm. Classes must be booked in booked and held in the ancient under- the hidden beach club is accessible ‘Ristobar’ sits on a raised, wooden categories range from Master Suites to advance with tailored programs for indi- ground cistern built over 400 years ago. via a wooden walkway set above the deck and is open all day with a Deluxe, with the most elegant Alcova viduals and groups, for one to five days. Booking is required for all activities, lunch dunes that leads to the shore with high-quality lunch and dinner menu. di Diana on the Piano Nobile. Property For those who prefer the backseat, and dinner. Finally, guests of lovely sister an abundance of wild Mediterranean Dinner reservations required. buy-outs are available on request. guests can retreat in the tranquil garden property Masseria Le Mandorle, just five vegetation, flowers and local wildlife. The onsite Puglia Culinary Centre, un- and let Chef Tommaso Sanguedolce lead minutes from Castello, are welcome to The scene is surreal and seems S.P. 366 Litoranea San Cataldo- der the direction of Chef Odette Fada, the way at the fine-dining restaurant Il take part in cooking classes and reserve sp, homemade bread and continues far-removed from Puglia: crystal blue Otranto, 73029 showcases Puglia’s most sophisticated te- Tempo Nuovo. In his sleek, gourmet preferred seats for lunch and dinner at Il with fresh seafood antipasti bursting waters splash on the sandy volcanic Tel: +39 346 015 7029 aching kitchens and welcomes travelers kitchen Chef Tommaso reimagines Tempo Nuovo. with color, and capably prepared first shore where sun loungers and ultimaspiaggiadellecesine.it as well as advanced students from the Apulian tradition for the 21st century and second courses that retain the fla- umbrellas are set at a comfortable Culinary Institute of America. Students with new menus each day depending For Hotel and Restaurant reservations: enroll for a Concentration in Italian on the seasonal produce and catch [email protected] Cuisine and Culture from September to of the day. His recipes take root in Tel: +39 333 914 2242 age-old family kitchens and intertwine with creative experimentation using the Castello di Ugento simplest seasonal ingredients to create Via Castello 13, 73059 Ugento something truly unique in an elegant and www.castellodiugento.com Ship luggage, arrive happy memorable setting. Worldwide luggage shipping from your doorstep to your destination. Masseria le Mandorle Wine has been cultivated in this part of Via Indipendenza 135, 73059 Ugento Puglia since the 8th century with traces www.masserialemandorle.com back to Greek colonization. Thanks to

Nardò significance, all built between 18th and 19th centuries. In addition, along with Nardò is indisputably one of the most the town of Santa Maria al Bagno, the beautiful towns in Salento. While the town of Nardò was famous for having quest for the coastline under the Medi- received a large Jewish community terranean sun is surely hard to resist, a sent by the allies from 1943 to 1945. visit to this historic town will prove to The city’s Museum of Memory and be a highlight in Puglia. The city is fa- Hospitality contains historic records of mous for both its rich architectural and international importance with moving landscape heritage with monuments stories and photographic memories that span the Romanesque-Gothic of the rebirth, integration of solidarity era to the Renaissance and Baroque. of humankind in the post-war era. Within the town walls are some In 2005, the initiative won the city of www.luggageforward.com forty splendid villas of great historical Nardò a gold medal for civil merit by

64 65 Nugae Gallery Hidden inside the 16th century the former President of the Republic Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 7 Palazzo Balsamo, one of Gallipoli’s Carlo Azeglio Ciampi. Here in Nardò, Nardò most historic and renowned palaces visitors can choose some from several Tel: +39 329 930 5575 in the old town that once belonged to itineraries including those organized m.me/thecadinalnardo a family of barons, Nugae Gallery re- with architects, agronomists, and landscape architects who will open the doors of the most eclectic villas and extra virgin olive oil, medicinal plants, selection of tapestry, furniture and gardens in all of Puglia. natural essences and essential oils. accessories. Interiors are eclectic and L’acchiatura fined wine list is available, too. Locals fun but at the same time warm and Museum of Memory and Hospitality Legend has it that hidden in the walls pre-book the tables so make sure to Via A. De Pace 56, 73014 Gallipoli peaceful. Most rooms have a balcony Promenade Alfonso Lamarmora of this building is a golden hen with its do the same. Tel: +39 0833 341449 and two have a private sun terrace. S. Maria al Bagno, Nardò (LE) chicks, always protected by the fairy, presents artisan jewelers from Italy and salentumiprofumi.com The rooftop is an oasis of effortless Tel: +39 0833 572 657 Laurieddhu, a well-known character Via XXIV Maggio, 37 around the world. Owners Giulia and chic with cushioned sun loungers museomemoriaeaccogienza.it in popular tradition. The name, L’ac- 73014 Gallipoli Vittoria put a lot of love and care into overlooking the terraces of Gallipoli chiatura originates from the legends of Tel: +39 0833 264 501 the boutique and their eye for design and the Ionian Sea; thanks to various Salento and refers to a precious box of ristorantelavinaigrette.it is evident in the impressive collection setups, guests can enjoy a sense of treasure – and it certainly is, located on ~ of unique one-off pieces, each with its space and privacy. Breakfast is served a tiny narrow street. From this point own story and style. Designers include Palazzo Presta here daily (or in bed) and the cocktail of view, with a deep-rooted history Matre Apostolos Kleitsioti, Arior, Alessandra Who would have thought that from bar proves that travel knowledge is The Cardinal Aperitif & Bar and tradition, this restaurant excels in The combination of good-looking Pasini x Pasa Gioielli, this intimate hotel in Gallipoli, one not only instilled through the eyes, Located in the historic town of Nardò, Apulian cuisine where the chef takes interiors and an engaging food expe- could explore the world? While the but through the palate too. For those this stylish cocktail bar is the optimal a typical dish and transforms it into rience make this bistro and restaurant open sea outside is a good starting who want ‘the whole world as their stop for drinks and mingling with locals a highly elaborate experience with point, at this ‘Globetrotter’s House’ homeland’ this is the place. while exploring the region of Salento. Mediterranean contemporaneity, and you’re transported in minutes – from Industrial lighting and rustic furniture the right wine for each dish. A short Japan to Morocco to Peru. Each of Via Garibaldi 29 (corner of Via drive outside Gallipoli but well worth the 10 rooms bears the name of a city Presta), 73014 Gallipoli the trip. that the husband-wife team, Antonio Tel: +39 0833 261 775 and Eugenia, sought to capture in style palazzopresta.it Via Marzani 12, 73055 (LE) and soul. ‘Discrete elegance’ best Tel: +39 392 3411594 embodies the concept with a careful acchiatura.it Via Antonietta de Pace 56, Gallipoli Tel: +39 0833 263285 an address to keep. Aperitivo at the nugae.gallery GALLIPOLI bistro offers a selection of cooked ~ or raw antipasti paired with variety of wine tastings, with an à la carte Salentum - I Profumi lunch and dinner menu for a more An old pharmacy finds new life with tailored experience. More formal 100% Made in Salento fragrances and contrast with frescoed ceilings and settings are available at the restaurant home essences. Where old wooden arches, a highly aesthetic balance La Vinaigrette and garden, where traditional recipes cabinets housed medicine, they now between past and present. The When asked where to have seafood from the region are prepared using serve as an elegant presentation for particular choice of wine on the menu in Gallipoli, this is probably the place. zero-kilometer, seasonal ingredients the collection of cosmetics, perfume highlights the owners’ expertise and Under arched ceilings, exposed walls combined with the chef’s flair for and fragrances of the highest quality, personal style, with a curated selection and marine-chic rustic furnishings, the creative experimentation. You won’t each named after a city, fruit, flower or of celebrated vineyards from the restaurant’s expertise in raw seafood is have the same dish twice. experience that is distinctly Salento. An region. Tasty gourmet tapas inspired by justified with a rich selection, freshness in-depth study of Salento’s botanical local traditions make fine accompani- and definitive gusto. Some of their Via Antonietta de Pace 116 cornucopia led Dr. Massimo Sindaco ments to refreshing cocktails and crisp signature dishes feature lobster, fish 73014 Gallipoli to create a collection of fragrances that wines, all in an informal atmosphere carpaccio, tartare and grilled whole Tel: +39 0833 264430 is not only aromatic, but also beneficial and ambient music. Vegan options are fish, each prepared with a delicate use matre.it to the body - each elixir is made available. Open from 19:00 of herbs and homemade dressing. Re- exclusively of the highest-grade organic

66 67 HISTORIC WALLS WITH A CONTEMPORARY SPIRIT Two siblings ventured to Each suite is named after family members or chapters in their history, including ‘Suite Puglia to explore their past; John and Oko’ – the garden in Central Park they arrived as guests and that was conceived by Antonia Filali herself together with Yoko Ono. became masterful hosts © Patrick Locqueneux © Bruna Pizzichini

Siblings and business partners, Anto- ago, the land of their maternal an- suite’s luxuriant facilities. The result seven daily pastries with mice-en- scent of old Italian films, high ceilings, request, with the availability of a ko- nia and Giacomo Fouad Filali, pione- cestors, they discovered a story that is a discreet ancient town retreat in- place to match. Guest ambassadors and 18th century stuccoes are offset sher kitchen, and is set to introduce a ered the founding of two luxury pro- was to bring them back to their roots. corporating an enchanting garden, offer more attentive guest services, by haute design furniture and refined new kind of contemporary experience perties and a private family museum indoor cuisine, an outdoor pool, and whilst dedicated staff arrange cu- accessories, created by renowned in this historic city. in Lecce, retracing the extraordinary It was during this trip that Giacomo al fresco dining. Suites a Côté are the stom itineraries that include Byzantine designers and emerging talents. The story of their family history, centered Fouad purchased a derelict 17th cen- latest hospitality gems at La Fiermon- Road Experience, journeying through in-house chef Maria Carla curates the Having travelled so far only to return on the life of their grandmother, An- tury masseria in Lecce, with a parti- tina; three new suites with their own ancient routes, passing Cerate Abbey menu according to local tradition and to their roots has perhaps allowed the tonia Fiermonte. She was the muse cular vision in mind. It took ten years entrance, bathed in natural sunlight followed by an atmospheric Salento ‘honesty bars’ on both floors invite brother-sister team to go farther than of 20th century French sculptors Le- to realize the historic masseria into while manicured walls draw attention woodland picnic. guests to help themselves to cocktails they may have ever imagined. Where tourneur and Zwobada, as well as the a refined luxurious hotel with private to artwork and sophisticated design. June 2018 saw the opening of the and refreshments at their leisure. their imagination will go next is only a queen of their hearts, each of whom suites, enshrining the grandmother’s One suite features a private outdoor 18th century marvel, Palazzo Bozzi matter of time – one story away. eternalized her in artistic works until family name and in her honor, with the splash pool, perfectly hidden to soak Corso, in the historic heart of Lec- The M.A.M.A Fiermonte Family Mu- her sudden death at age 42. The vast adaptation La Fiermontina. peacefully under the stars. ce. Passing through imposing green seum is housed in a 19th century villa collections recall an intriguing family doors is a stately courtyard, quiet and garden with paintings, sculptu- story that the duo have succeeded Each of the 16 suites preserves the Always striving to enrich the hospita- and reserved but in no way a sign res and installations from the priva- in illustrating in a series of hospitality original architectural features; arches lity experience Antonia and Giacomo of what’s to come. This time, they te collection, as well as temporary projects that welcome you into their and star-pinnacled ceilings integra- have introduced a new food concept, brought back the family’s prestigious exhibitions. Starting May 2019 during life, perhaps for always. ted with pieces from the Fiermonte led by Chef Simone Solido: breakfast art collection from Paris to adorn the ‘Cortili Aperti’, the museum will ac- During a visit to Puglia several years family art collection, woven into each now features seven fresh juices and walls of the palazzo. Terraces remini- commodate private luxury events on www . lafier m ontina . co m © Bruna Pizzichini © Daniele Coricciati © Patrick Loqueneux © Patrick Locqueneux © Patrick Locqueneux CULTURE CALENDAR CULTURE CALENDAR

Via Gabriele Rossetti, 25 bicycles as you traverse Tribute to Liszt Info: +39 0831 342 422 charming towns and Eunhye Anna Hong comune.ostuni.br.it/ scenic landscapes. This Piano Recital ___ competition-free expe- Palazzo Pesce plays Calendar rience means you can host to “Hommage à Primavera in Musica stop and fully enjoy the Franz Liszt” through the Organized in coopera- views, with two routes: hands of Eunhye Anna of Events tion with the European 35km and 75km. Hong, protagonist of Arts Academy “Aldo the piano and stu- Ciccolini”, this festival 1 June dent of the legendary MAY world’s greatest inter- event includes open Medieval & Modern Art of nine concerts will be Via Principe Umberto 8 Oxana Yablonskaya, ...... preters of drawing and workshops, museum Piazzetta Pascoli held at Palazzo delle 70015 Noci engaged in a unique illustration. Curated by exhibits, open studios 75100 Matera Arti “Beltrani” in Trani Info: +39 393 008 0870 and ambitious project, Salvador Dalí the Kunstchau Collecti- and ateliers, guided materaevents.it with compositions by lamatta.org performing all the pia- “The Persistence ve Art Group, the show tours, and activities for ___ Rachmaninov and Saint JUNE ___ of Opposites” displays the artist’s children. Saëns, among other ...... Curated by Beniamino 40-year-long journalism Andy Warhol composers. Bari in Jazz Levi, the exhibition career with a profound 18-19 May “The Alchemist of the Lamatta Festival investigation into Laterza (near Matera) Sixties” Until 7 June Traditionally held on The Bari in Jazz Festival contemporary society (between Ceglie The papa of Pop Art Palazzo delle Arti “Beltrani” 1 June for the perfect brings a host of national by exploring human Messapica and Taranto) comes to Ostuni with a Via. G. Beltrani 51, Trani climate and summer talents and the world’s relationships. buongiornoceramica.it Starts at 20:30 perfumes infusing the celebrated musicians ___ Info & tickets: air, Lamatta is a cyclist’s to stages across Puglia, Until 31 May +39 0883 500 044 journey through the covering all facets of MUST Lecce The Renaissance As +39 0802 375 821 Valle D’Itria in old-scho- jazz. Visit website for Via degli Ammirati 11, Lecce Seen From the South palazzodelleartibeltrani.it ol high-neck jumpers the full schedule Kunstschau An exhibition that made by skilled local ar- bariinjazz.it Via G. Toma 72, Lecce explores the impact tisans riding on vintage ______of the Renaissance on the Mediterranean and Buongiorno Ceramica! Southern Italy between Polo Degli Ulivi features some 200 A nationwide event ce- the 15th and 16th cen- Now in its third season, the ‘sport of kings’ event sculptures and ma- lebrating Italy’s unparal- turies, with 180 works is back, this time with a month-long program of sterpieces displayed leled ceramic traditions. from prestigious collec- special exhibition of 140 weekend events and competitions across Puglia. in public squares and The Fourth Edition is tions in Italy and across works that retrace the Polo Degli Ulivi was founded in 2017 with a one- churches to engage the Europe. The route starts life of the artist through day event that immediately attracted locals and visitor’s senses, guiding from the Mediterrane- crucial themes of his internationals living in Puglia, resulting in a two- you through a pro- an, from Naples up to time. “Andy Warhol, The found journey into the Flanders, offering a Alchemist of the Sixties” day event last year. This year, the event returns conceptualist mind of different view of one of highlights the sexual with an expanded program of Paddock Polo. Ti- Dalí installed across the the most visionary pe- revolution to mass con- ckets may be purchased online, as well as event city, Europe’s Capital of riods in Italian history. sumerism dinners and cocktail parties. The Polo school on- Culture for 2019. site offers lessons that can be booked in advance. Until 19 August Until 24 November Polo Happy Hour every Thursday at White Beach, Throughout 2019 National Museum of La Casa della Musica Ostuni. thedaliuniverse.com ___ Dates & Locations 24 - 25 May 7 - 8 June Riccardo Mannelli Taranto “Diario di un vizio” set to take place on 18 - Ippodromo Paolo VI Arena Green Village Held at the Museo 19 May with two days of Storico di Lecce (MUST), events to discover Ita- 31 May - 1 June 14 - 15 June the exhibition features lian ceramics, between Fasano Oria the works of Riccardo ancient traditions and Horse Club Masseria Palombara Mannelli, one of the new techniques. The Piana degli Ulivi Resort & SPA For tickets visit polodegliulivi.com

70 71 CULTURE CALENDAR CULTURE CALENDAR no works of Franz Liszt, her works in oil with sic lovers will not want termezzo, L’ammalato +39 0835 256 384 Viale Olimpia, Locorotondo on the most prestigious expressive traits and JULY to miss the 45th edition Immaginario, with an orchestrasinfonica.rai.it Starts at 21:00 stages of the world. colors that leverage the ...... of this annual festival, interlude by Leonardo matera-basilicata2019.it/ bassculture.it use of light juxtaposed with three weeks of Vinci, a true star of en/ticket.html ___ 1 June with the breath of the Fasano Music Festival performances by high- the Neapolitan music Palazzo Pesce sea, the trees, the Earth Taking place during the profile international school. Ferragosto (Etrusca Hall) and the soul. last days of the Fasano artists and conductors. AUGUST The 15th of August is Via Van Westerhout, 24 Music Festival, you will Most of the concerts 21 July - 1 August under the night sky. really a holiday in this Mola di Bari 8 - 14 June not want to miss this are set to take place (TA) ...... part of Italy, each city Starts at 20:30 Palazzo Pesce award-winning music at the Chiostro of San Starts at 21:00 20 - 28 July with its processions Info & tickets: Via Van Westerhout, 24 group, Canzoniere Domenico, Paolo Grassi Info & tickets: Alberobello, Valle D’Itria Locus Music Festival and harvest festivities +39 393 134 0912 Mola di Bari Grecanico Salentino, set Theatre and Palazzo +39 0804 805 100 alberobellolightfestival. Six weekends of con- with family and friends. [email protected] Starts at 19:30 Municipale. festivaldellavalleditria.it/en it/en/ certs with the participa- Celebrate regional palazzopescelocatione- Info: +39 393 134 0912 biglietteria@festivaldella- ___ tion of world-renowned traditions with a feast venti.com ___ Highlights include: valleditria.it of your own, a tribute to 16 July ___ Sinfonia per l’Europa the riches of this land. ___ The Poetry of Primes The Secret Wedding by The Chiesa del Sole, set Our tip: plan a special Can an equation Domenico Cimarosa Vive le Cinéma 2019 in the rock of a medie- lunch on board a yacht. La Scamiciata change the way we live 19 July Fourth Edition val monastery, will be A historical re-enact- and think? Our ideas Coscoletto by Jacques “Vive le Cinéma” brings the setting for a con- 61st Annual Sagra ment of the victory over and relationship with Offenbach the best of French cert by the RAI National Pirotecnica of the Valle the Turks of 2 June 1678, the world are strongly cinema to Puglia, Symphony Orchestra d’Itria a grand procession linked to the way we fostering creative and conducted by James The five-day celebra- starts from the town of count and measure. Py- cultural ties between Conlon. As a tribute tions for Locoroton- Fasano and proceeds thagoras and Coperni- Southern Italy and to Matera, European do’s patron saint, San towards the Sanctuary cus certainly believed in one of the world’s Capital of Culture 2019, Rocco, end with an of the Vergine del Poz- it, with mentions in the to take the stage at the most prominent film compositions of great impressive fireworks zo in Pezze di Greco. Bible too. The exhibition Egnazia Archaeological capitals, with almost symbolic value have musicians and jazz standoff, bringing follows six paths, com- Museum. The group is 300 films produced been chosen from the players. The XV Edition Italy’s most renowned 2 June bining the historical, one of Italy’s leading each year and over 200 symphonic repertoire, of the Locus Music fireworks specialists Town of Fasano didactic and artistic, and longest-standing million viewers. The full including Beethoven’s Festival goes to new together for a compe- [email protected] as well as lectures by traditional music schedule is available Seventh Symphony heights this year with tition in pyrotechnics. lascamiciata.it some of the most bril- ensembles since 1975. online. (Opus 92), reflecting the the confirmed perfor- Locals and internatio- ___ liant mathematicians Tickets include access meaning of a com- mance of Ms. Lauryn nal travelers take to the around today. to the archaeological 16 July - 4 August 10-14 July munity that stretches Hill. The five-time streets for drinks and Respiro (Breath) site prior to the show. Palazzo Ducale Piazzetta beyond Italy’s borders Grammy Award winner celebrations. Contemporary Art 21 June - 30 November Piazza Roma Giosué Carducci and encompasses the will perform on 7 Au- Exhibit by Anna Tonelli Metaponto Archaeological 18 July 74015 Martina Franca (TA) 73100 Lecce whole of Europe. gust in Locorotondo. 16 August “Respiro” is an invitation Museum canzonieregrecanicosa- Starts at 21:00 Info & tickets: 24 July Starts at midnight to look at nature and Via D. Adamesteanu, 21 lentino.net Info: +39 0804 805 100 info@vivelecinema-festi- Starts at 21:30 7 August Locorotondo feel part of everything 75012 Bernalda (MT) Info: +39 0804 331 092 festivaldellavalleditria.it/en val.com Info & tickets: Stadio Comunale ___ that deserves respect Palazzo Acito ___ biglietteria@festivaldella- ___ and love: all through Recinto II Fiorentini valleditria.it the sensitive and atten- 75100 Matera 45th Annual Festival of ___ Alberobello Light tive gaze of an architect musei.basilicata.benicul- the Itria Valley Festival and artist who, for turali.it/ Opera and classical mu- Opera in Masseria Light will be the pro- more than 30 years, Part of the 45th Annual tagonist of the Third has worked closely with Festival of the Valle International Edition of archaeological asso- D’Itria, L’Opera in mas- LiFe at the Alberobello ciations to breathe life seria brings eighteenth- Light Festival. Every back into monuments century music theatre trullo in the UNESCO- and historic buildings to historic stately farms inscribed cultural of considerable artistic across the region. This heritage town of Albe- and cultural signifi- year the stage plays robello will be lit with cance. Tonelli creates host to the comic in- colorful works of art

72 73 CULTURE CALENDAR CULTURE CALENDAR

SEPTEMBER

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Salento International Blind Sensorium- Film Festival 2019 Il paradosso 16th Edition dell’Antropocene Known as “the Door to Curated by photogra- the East” the Salento- pher and filmmaker based festival is a Armin Linke, ‘Blind melting pot of cultures Sensorium’ focuses on and traditions, with a continuity, from the celebration of inde- early primitive set- pendent films from tlers who lived in the around the world. shadow of the Sassi The festival’s ‘touring’ to the latest scientific concept brings a host discoveries over the of independent films last five years, and the Tailor-Made to a plethora of cities action we need to take including Zurich St. Pe- to protect our planet in tersburg, Hong Kong, the future. Santiago de Chile and Cycling Tours Lecce. 6 September 9 January 2020 4 - 8 September Museo Archeologico Palazzo Gallone Nazionale Domenico across Puglia Piazza Giuseppe Pisanelli Ridola Tricase (LE) Via Domenico Ridola, 24 Info & tickets: Matera (MT) +39 0837 771 821 materaevents.it Our dedicated team has been designing private cycling +39 327 384 4320 salentofilmfestival.com tours for ten years; each itinerary is as unique as our clients. ___ Perfect for small groups with carefully-curated cycling routes and culinary setups in special locations.

Explore the land of Puglia, from the countryside to the coast and back again.

View of Matera at sunset. Tel: +39 080 237 10 85

74 CREDITS Publisher VIA Magazine SPONSORS Editor-in-Chief Eleonora Betesh

www.castellodiugento.com www.pettolecchialaresidenza.it www.pugliacycletours.com Sub-Editor Sir Robert Arnold Pugin

www.cedrogioielleria.it www.roccofortehotels.com www.yachtinpuglia.com Creative Director Alessandra Corso adv

Contributors www.essentiapuglia.com www.masseriatorreabaterisi.com www.zkronkop.com Antonio Chiaese, John Klein, Christian Koch, Inbal Sinai, Himali Singh Soin

Printer StampaSud S.p.A www.lafiermontina.com www.spezyale.com www.sunseeker-italy.com www.stampa-sud.it

www.olivhealth.it Special thanks A special thanks to my family and closest friends, and to the unique network of part- ners in this important project for the promotion of Puglia. Particular thanks to the enduring love and support of Orly Betesh, Jonathan Betesh, Giovanni De Blasio and www.lamacoppa.com www.palazzobozzicorso.com his family who are now an extension of my own in Puglia. Thank you to the people of Puglia who opened up their hearts, homes and studios to help bring this issue to life.

Advertising Thanks to our team of collaborators and contributors To advertise in our next issue in 2020, please contact us: that helped to create this first issue: [email protected]

Subscribe & Download Aeroporti di Puglia Le Palme Beach Club Palazzo del Duca VIA Magazine Alesia Concept Lido Bambù Palazzo Margherita www.via-magazine.com @via-magazine Alessandra Corso adv Luggage Forward Palazzo Presta Amore Boutique Masseria Amastuola Wine Resort Palazzo Sant’Anna Suites & Apts Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa Masseria Le Mandorle Pierfelice Rosato VIA is an annual magazine, conceived and fully produced in Puglia. The first pilot issue was created for the spring-summer season 2019. Borgo Egnazia Masseria Torre Coccaro Polo Degli Ulivi VIA Magazine aims to be the go-to resource for discerning, international luxury tra- Cantine San Marzano Masseria La Macerase Raniero Lomartire velers on holiday in Puglia, and a source of inspiration for aspiring travelers. The ma- gazine showcases Apulian champions in arts & design, architecture, gastronomy, Delfin Ceramics Masseria San Domenico San Marzano Wines wellbeing and hospitality in contemporary times, with a travel guide that highlights a On the cover: Giovi Relais Mela Jewelry Tipica Tour handpicked selection of special places to discover. An aerial view of "The Cave of Poetry" Copyright © 2019. All rights reserved. All information provided was correct during Guest House Mantatelure Michele Calò & Figli Tormaresca Puglia (Grotta della Poesia), a natural pool located near the archaeological site of the time of publication. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly prohibited without Jewish Museum Lecce Michelangelo Mazzotta TouranGo Roca Vecchia in Salento, Puglia. Belo- written consent from the publisher. Articles reflect the opinions of the authors, and do not necessarily represent the opinion of the publisher. Unless provided by content Leone de Castris Officina dell’Essere Vair Spa ved among divers and swimmers, this unique location was listed among the partners, VIA Magazine has paid for and/or sourced photography on-request for the top 10 most beautiful natural pools in travel and lifestyle editorials. the world by National Geographic. Please send your feedback and comments: [email protected]

76 77 nside the walls of this 18th century masseria, history and contemporaneity con- verge. A unique collection of paintings and photography adorn the walls of this warm and gracious home, with art installations, eclectic furniture and sublime I outdoor living spaces. Here, rare books consume you for days, the outdoor pool is immersed in the woods like a natural lake, and homemade cooking permeates every room in the estate. Located in the countryside of Ostuni, this 73-acre estate is home to rolling landsca- pes with protected woods, ancient olive groves, fruit orchards, an organic vegetable garden and a consecrated chapel that remains untouched. It is a destination for grands celebrations, family holidays and private retreats. Welcome to Masseria Lamacoppa. www.lamacoppa.com The finest luxury retreat in the heartland of Puglia www.lamacoppa.com