A Journey across All Seasons

Pocket Guide

Mario Adda Editore Regione Puglia Area Politiche per la del territorio, dei saperi e dei talenti Servizio Turismo – Corso Sonnino, 177 – cap 70121 Tel. +39 080.5404765 – Fax +39 080.5404721 e-mail: [email protected] www.viaggiareinpuglia.it

Text: Stefania Mola : Christina Jenkner Photographs: Nicola and Sergio Leonardi Drawings: Saverio Romito Layout: Vincenzo Valerio

ISBN 9788880829362

© Copyright 2011

Mario Adda Editore via Tanzi, 59 - Bari Tel. e fax +39 080 5539502 www.addaeditore.it [email protected] Contents

A Journey across All Seasons...... pag. 7

A History...... 9

Buried Treasures...... 11 ’s Treasure...... 12 Egnazia...... 12 The Bronzes of ...... 13 The Vases of Ruvo...... 13 Between Legend and Reality on the Hill of Cannae...... 14 – Pre-Classical Civilizations...... 14 and Prayers...... 15 Dolmens and Menhirs...... 15

Apulia’s Culture...... 17 The in ...... 18 The Sistine Chapel in a Cave...... 18 The Crypts in the ...... 19

The Holy Roads...... 21 “Make it big!”...... 22 ...... 23 Monte Sant’Angelo...... 23

Rural Culture and Tradition...... 27 The Carnival of ...... 30 The Rituals of the ...... 30 The Protagonists of the Holy Week...... 30 The Saint Who Came from the Sea: ...... 31 The Museums of Folklore and Rural Culture...... 32 Ceramics in ...... 32 To the Rhythm of the “”...... 33 Handicrafts...... 34 ’s Whistles...... 34 ’s Papier-mâché...... 34

B Art...... 37

Cathedrals and Spiritual Sites...... 39 Between East and West: di S. Nicola in Bari...... 42 A Ship Stranded on the Cliffs: ’s Cathedral...... 42 The Mystery of : the Cathedral and Its Mosaic...... 43 A Colourful World: Basilica di Santa Caterina in ...... 43 for Art Lovers...... 47 ...... 48 Troia...... 48 ...... 49 Bari...... 49 ...... 50 Brindisi...... 50 Gallipoli...... 51 Nardò...... 51 Smaller Towns...... 51

The ...... 53 A True Lady: Lecce...... 56 ’s Elegance...... 56 The Valle d’Itria Festival...... 56 Taranto, Baroque Glory between Two Seas...... 57 Barletta, Painter De Nittis’s Hometown...... 57

Castles, Residences and Walled Cities...... 59 A Journey between the Real and the Imaginary Worlds...... 62 The Imperial Crown on the Murge: Castel del Monte...... 64 The Castles Today...... 66 The Evolution of the Castles...... 67

C Nature...... 69

The Sea and the Coast...... 71 The Watchtowers...... 72 Torre Guaceto...... 74 ...... 74 ...... 75 ...... 75 Polignano...... 75 ...... 76 Otranto...... 76 Castro...... 77 Leuca...... 77 Parks and Reserves...... 79 National Park...... 80 The Tremiti Islands Marine Reserve...... 80 Alta Murgia National Park...... 82 The Lagoons...... 82 The Wetlands of Frattarolo...... 82 The Saltworks of Margherita di Savoia...... 83 The Murgia and Its Ravines...... 85 ...... 86 ...... 86 ...... 87 Valle d’Itria...... 89 The Caves of Castellana...... 90 The “Trulli”, Dry-stone Cathedrals...... 92 The “Trulli” Town...... 92 Ostuni...... 94 ...... 94 ...... 95 ...... 95

The “Masserie”...... 97 Children’s Farms...... 98 The Murgese Horse...... 98 The ...... 98

Sport and Wellbeing...... 101 Farm Holidays, a Relaxing Experience...... 102 Apulia on Two Wheels...... 102 Golf in Apulia...... 103 The Spas...... 104 Eclectic Style and Exoticism...... 104

D Flavours...... 107

The Products...... 109 Oil...... 110 Apulian ...... 111 Wine...... 112 A Museum for the Primitivo...... 113 The of Altamura...... 114 ...... 115 The Disputed ...... 115 Fish...... 116 ’s Comfit Museum...... 117

The Environment...... 119 The New “Pugliashire”...... 120 The Tradition of Barbecue...... 120 Events not to Be Missed...... 121

E Information All Year Round

Regional Organizations...... 122 Apulia on the Web...... 124 Index of Places...... 126 Instructions for Use

This guide transforms the seasons of the year into thematic sections associated with as many focus areas that are considered among Apulia’s main tourist attractions (history, art, nature, flavours).

Each thematic section includes a certain number of connected subjects split into chapters that, in turn, propose a series of contents presented through descriptions, drawings and/or photographs. The Art section, for instance, includes the chapters Cathedrals and Spiritual Sites, Cities for Art Lovers, The Baroque, and Castles, Residences and Walled Cities.

Each chapter is introduced by a brief outline occasionally matched with a map that illustrates the distribution across the region of the topics presented on the following pages, thus enabling an immediate visualization of the itinerary.

The topics understood as proposals or suggestions for a tour are structured as paragraphs focusing on a particular place, monument or district marked by uniform features with a great appeal. To ensure the most extensive and exhaustive coverage of the region in a uniform and balanced way avoiding any repetitions, the choice of including a place within a certain chapter is meant to highlight its predominant attraction factor; for this reason, for instance, Lecce is presented but not described among the cities for art lovers, as its peculiar features are particularly emphasized in the chapter dedicated to the Baroque.

The texts are provided with two additional descriptive elements: the cutaway views of monuments, namely drawings that reproduce in three dimensions the buildings concerned, supported by brief but exhaustive descriptions meant to outline a sort of guided tour; and the boxes, short digressions that describe the topic more in depth without creating interruptions when reading the main text.

Finally, the guide is completed by a chapter including references to the regional tourism organizations (APT and IAT) and an essential updated list of websites concerning the places of interest mentioned in the text. The book ends with an index of places meant to facilitate the search for information. to build uplastingtieswithEurope. project,to anextremely modern context but trying rooted withinaMediterranean firmly intoacrossroads thisregion that turned between two worlds. These ancientroots give birth for thosewholove andgives andhistory thechancetomeetallthosedifferent cultures art Apulia meanshaving thepossibilityofvisitingmonuments ofallepochs. Itisanidealplace as well asthecradleofacivilization andthecustodianofprecious treasures. Travelling across destinations, tofurther country popularforitsseaandsun, but wishestobeacknowledged Aware ofitsrole, Apulia aimsatnotmerely representing aseasonalholiday oratransit resort appointments well-prepared.big European andinternational laying cross-cultural thefoundationsofanincreasingly necessary reality, soastoreach the deputy. Claimingthisancientandfundamentalrole meansnow lookingatthefuture and civilization,Mediterranean hasbecomeagainthemostrepresentative ofwhichtheregion cultures, peoplesandlanguageshave blended intoameltingpotthatmightbedefinedthe Apulia, opentothe West aswell totheEast, istoday more thanever alandwhere various history.for thewholeMediterranean A JourneyacrossAllSeasons S different cultures andcivilizations, spotfortheItalianaswell becomingacrucial as since thedawn oftime. Given thisvery centralposition, itwas acrossroads among oftheMediterranean,ituated intheheart totheOrient Apulia hasbeenabridge

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Taranto, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Apulian red-figure bell crater

8 (4th cent. B.C.) a singleidentity. this follow:wishes History up to making dedicated traces manytales chapter the the are communities.These former of expressions the as habits,past evidenceof immaterial traditions, spirituality, faith of paths and material both provide which of pre-classical,items,all everyday, buried or includes or often heritage archaeological world.This the across famous area this havemade which cathedrals and castles the of Apulia, scattered all over the throughout region traces their next haveleft cultures different to of number the great A imposing monumentality H istory History A

9 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 10 E Buried Treasures Lecce, theRomanamphitheatre the UpperPalaeolithic totheMesolithicandNeolithic. the transitionfrompaintings bearevidence totheearliest stageofhumancivilization during “Grotta deiCervi” (DeerCave) discovered from notfar Otranoin1970, inwhichthewall of thePaglicci cave nearRignanoGarganico, orby thosecreated withbatguanointhe centre dedicatedtothe Altamura Man. Moreby talesare thePalaeolithic narrated paintings still rests andcanbeviewed visitors’ by onthemonitorofmodern amazedobservers in thesoil.paths printed A hominidofthePleistocenefellasleepinLamalunga, where he of history. oftheCretaceous Dinosaurs roamed undisturbedandleftevidence oftheirdaily filledwiththe tracesfromback tolightinthisregion thedawn ofthe world andthe dawn civilizations are stillvisible across thedepositedlayers; sometimesentire citieswere brought in theancientnecropolises. There are alsomany siteswhere theremains ofseveral past to jewellery, from vases tostatues, outfitsdiscovered whichmainlybelongedtoburial itineraries.extremely rich The museums display countlessobjects, from ranging in matterofconservation. To thelovers ofthevestiges andtracesofthepast, Apulia proposes works; insomecases, treasures thedisclosure ofburied canalsocausequiteafew problems construction or sites. agricultural during amazingundergroundsurprises oftenoffers This region main wealth of Apulia’s largestmuseums, number whichalsoincludeagreat ofexcavation ofItalyandthewholeMediterranean.the history Nowadays, archaeology isalsothe influenced and tofar-away civilizations, disclosingthetracesleftby peoplesandcultures that field. Itisarchaeology that restores the region’s totheEast role asanaturalbridge specially inthesepastfew years, Apulia hasaroused interest great inthearchaeological Canne dellaBattaglia Ruvo diPuglia T egnazi aranto Mare Jonio a Mare ostuni The main archaeological and prehistoric The mainarchaeological andprehistoric Adriatico Brindisi Carpignano Salentin sites listed inthisitinerary History o A

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Taranto’s Treasure display, which have been set up following Taranto’s famous collection of gold a thoroughly new concept more closely objects is definitely worth a visit. These linked to the various territorial contexts precious and extremely fine jewels and rather than to the different object classes. accessories discovered among burial outfits are on display at the National Archaeological Museum (MarTa). The Egnazia collection includes earrings of delicate The archaeological site and National filigree work, necklaces, tiaras, rings and Museum of Egnazia, not far from bracelets of exceptional beauty and value. Savelletri in the municipal district of However, they are just a small part of that , should definitely not be missed. amazing treasure – made of gold and silver The ancient town of Gnathia was a very objects, sculptures and paintings – that was important port at the border between the booty of Quintus Fabius Maximus Peucetia and Messapia, along the when he conquered the town in 209 that led to Brindisi. It survived the fall of B.C. Founded in 1887, Taranto’s Museo the and became a bishopric Archeologico Nazionale – one of ’s in the early Christian age. It started to most important museums – was partially decline and was gradually abandoned reopened to the public in 2007 after long during the High for reasons restoration works. Besides the gold objects still unknown. Among the ruins, we can that made it famous across the world, still recognize the ancient , the it offers visitors numerous temporary exhibitions as well as Greek, Roman Egnazia, archaeological site: a section of the old and Apulian collections permanently on Via Traiana 12 doubt the portrait-statue depictingLucius doubt theportrait-statue of themostinteresting piecesis without archaeology,dedicated tosubmarine one andits surroundings.Brindisi Inthesection discoveredincluding materials inthearea of collections (DeLeoandGorgafamilies) from public andprivate nineteenth-century dei Templari. It holdsarchaeological finds building justbehindtheso-calledPortico old town insidealarge centre ofBrindisi to thepublic since1956, issituatedinthe Museum “Francesco Ribezzo”, open T excavations are ondisplay inthemuseum. ceramics thatwere recovered the during basilica. outfits,The burial statuesand the amphitheatre andtherests ofacivilian withitslargestoneslabs,area oftheforum statue portraying LuciusEmiliusPaulus Brindisi, MuseoProvinciale “Ribezzo”, bronze he The Archaeological Provincial B ronzes

of B rindisi the 19 example ofanarchaeological collectionof “Jatta” inRuvo diPugliaisatypical the National jewellery Taranto, Museo T though. difficulty, ofwhichnotrace was found, dropped inlateantiquityby ashipin from theseabed. They probably hadbeen fragments ofbronze sculptures emerged same occasion, more thantwo hundred Punta delSerrone, nearBrindisi. Onthe fragments foundin1992thewaters off Macedonia. Itwas from reconstructed the B.C. inhonourofthewinnerPidna, in identified asthemonument erected in168 of the2 Emilius Paulus. Datedtothesecondhalf he Till afew years agoaprivate museum, V th ases century thathassurvived century thetestof nd century B.C., century itwas recently

of Archeologico Nazionale, gold Archaeological Museum R uv o History A

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Between Legend and Reality on the Hill of Cannae The archaeological site of Canne della Battaglia lies between Canosa and Barletta in a dominant position overlooking the plain of the river . Although the famous event most probably took place further away from this location, Cannae is known for the epic encounter between the Roman legions and the Carthaginians. The battle was fought around 216 B.C. and ended with the victory of the latter led by . The site, now deserted and silent, consists essentially of the stronghold crossed by a decumanus (the main street crossing the hill from east to west, which can be accessed through the ancient fortified gate). Numerous columns, statues, ancient Roman inscriptions and cippi are lined up along the decumanus. The remains of a fortification lie in a more marginal position. The south-western part of the town holds the area dedicated to the Christian with the ruins of two Ruvo (Bari), Museo Nazionale “Jatta”, the vase of churches with mosaic floors and a medieval Talos graveyard. Some burial outfits, ceramics and reconstructed models of the battle site are time almost perfectly intact. Still displayed on display in the Antiquarium. in the original setting of the time designed by Giovanni Jatta junior, it includes more than 2000 vases from the surroundings Ostuni – Pre-Classical Civilizations giving a good general idea of the ancient Opened in 1989, this museum is local production. The crucial piece of located in the former Convento delle this collection is the famous Attic crater Monacelle and includes some large (dating back to the end of the 5th century laboratories, a specialized library and an B.C.) depicting the Death of Talos. This exhibition space in the attached eighteenth- is undoubtedly the most well-known vase century of San Vito Martire. of the entire collection, which has become Among many interesting finds, some of almost a symbol not only of the museum which date from the and Metal but of the very town of Ruvo. Of amazing Ages, the most outstanding are the remains quality, despite the questionable restoration of the oldest mother on earth (Delia). added to hide the marks of time at the This woman, more than twenty thousand beginning of the 19th century and removed years old, was discovered together with the in recent years, this vase represents on its fetus she carried in her womb in a cave used central scene the defeat of Talos, a mythical for worship not far from the town. demon and guardian of the island of ,

14 at the hands of Castor and Pollux. Croce there are stillfourdolmenslocated were redone in themid-18 (SanBiagio, where thefrescoes deiGreci (Sant’Onofrio),Castrignano (SanSebastianoandSanPietro), weremore crypts decorated withfrescoes in .Cristina ofGrecìa Salentina, Inthedistrict andSanta ofSantaMarina in thecrypts survived) intheSalento,, nearCarpignano Byzantine frescoes (amongthosethathave The monkspaintedtheirmostancient very standards. higharchitectural andartistic populations living incaves hadachieved for examplefrom Cappadocia, where the settlements tothosethey already knew monks fledtoItaly, finding similar very C D Biagio). (SS. Stefani), S. (San Vito deiNormanni visited inCasarano(Casaranello), Vaste andsomemore examples canbe phenomenon iswidespread throughout the aves olmens Today, alongthetrailofLamaSanta In theiconoclasticperiod, many Basilian

and

and P ra M yers enhirs th century). This Montalbano of FasanoSurroundings (Brindisi), thedolmenof Garden. from Otranto), thuscalledItaly’s Megalithic ofGiurdignano (inland municipal district megalithic monuments istobefoundinthe destroyed oftime. inthecourse many more have been unfortunately to befoundinthelower Salento, although are dolmensandmenhirs Dozens offurther group.families inthe the mostinfluential siteofoneamong burial to theprestigious most widespread opinion, they belonged (16 can bedatedtotheMiddleBronze Age mound.burial Given thisstructure, they passage tombsenclosedwithinanelliptical graves of thedolmengallery and category have andbelongtothe structure atrilith monuments from theBronze Age. These of them. Dolmensare massive funerary although there usedtobemany more crow ofBisceglie flies)inthesurroundings , fromnot far eachother(1-2kmasthe The greatest concentrationofsuch The greatest th –14 th century B.C.). century According tothe History A

15 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 16 Taranto, asMaterainnearby reaching asfar . and traditionspread especiallyacrosshillsofBari This typicallyMediterranean theMurgia community like oilmillsandstables,functional tothefarming andalsoplacesofworship. rock thehamletsbuilt by above others ground. They includedproper homes, structures in theravines appearaspicturesque villagesthat, andbuilding, by digging replicated inthe also becamedwellings providing alternative settlementsolutions. Infact, thesesettlements cavetrue villages. The Apulian caves andascetics, offered notonlysheltertohermits they I Apulia’s CaveCulture (Taranto) caveA former of settlementinthe surroundings environmental many ofthesenaturalcaves conditionsandendeduptransforming into and caves. oftime, Inthecourse toadapttheseinitiallyharsh humanbeingslearned n thisregion, theundergroundactionofwater ofcavities hascreated awholeseries g a ravin ndria a Tr ginos ani C laterz M astellaneta a odugno a ltamura Triggian a Mare Jonio The maincave settlements listedinthisitinerary Mare o M onopol M Adriatico assafra i History A

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The Crypts in Terra di Bari specific structure and decoration according The cave settlements in the province to the Greek or rites, depending of Bari do not cover a very definite area, on the nature of the resident community. mainly because they formed there where In Gravina, the caves can be as big as a the configuration of the land allowed to basilica – as for example the one dedicated excavate the tufa walls of dry riverbeds to San Michele – or as an oratory, like the called “lame” and ravines. Despite the fact of San Vito Vecchio, reproduced in that these settlements depended at various the local museum. Altamura features the levels from the rich Greek and Latin prehistoric cave village of Pisciulo, the crypt founded in Apulia starting of Carpentino with frescoes and the cave from the 9th-10th centuries onward, they church of Masseria Jesce. The cave villages should not be understood as monastic in the area of Monopoli are mainly small or ascetic communities, but rather as real villages of peasants. In the organization of the rural village, the main position was reserved to the church. Its shape followed a Mottola (Taranto), cave church San Nicola

The Sistine Chapel in a Cave To the most, the Saints and Madonnas depicted in the Byzantine style, typical of the “Greek manner”, may look all the same, somewhat too static and sad, frozen in faraway times. However, they can be rather enthralling and evocative, as in the case of the crypt of San Nicola, in the surroundings of Mottola. Because of the effect given by its frescoes, this crypt is defined the «Sistine Chapel of cave churches». The paintings, covering the crypt throughout, date back to a period between the 10th and 14th centuries and offer a sort of anthology of the Byzantine-Mediterranean koiné. Despite the grave postures of the figures, the bright colours they are painted in (bright reds, black, whites, , blues, greens and yellows) make the whole incredibly lively. 18 images ofSaints and withtheHoly Virgins and gable roofs. isdecoratedwith The crypt that accuratelyreplicate domes, cross vaults especially inrelation tothetypesofroofing ofthechurches aboveand forms ground, of Candelorareproduces thesameshapes with frescoes. side, Ontheeastern thecrypt with three fullycovered originally cave church dedicatedtoSan Marco, ahall for example, derived itsnamefrom the sides oftheravine. ’s settlement, settlement systemdeveloped alongthe toa complexcaveof themcorresponds ofcommunity life.of ancientforms Each concentration ofnaturalbeautiesandtraces and Ginosa, combineanunexpected (San Marco), ,Laterza ravines ofMottola(Petruscio), Massafra given theirnumber andconcentration. The around Taranto important are particularly vein with frescoes in the 14 Croce; itwas decoratedinamonumental yet anothercave church, dedicatedtoSanta with proposed endsinAndria itinerary by thechurches built above ground. This Geffa, abigthree- basilicainspired includesthecave church ofSanta of frescoes. The area between Trani and Grotte, someexamples stillpreserving delle the undergroundchurch SantaMaria fromfar thetown ofModugno, we find to above-ground villagesandtowns. Not church, they offered analternative solution T were andusedfrom calledgripte the10 , very closetoBari. These houses cluster ofcave houseswas discovered in the HolySpirit. timeago,A short another Giovanni diStaveta andthecave church of Zaccaria, ofSan of Masseria thecrypt Sant’Andrea andSanProcopio, thecrypt worship, likeof thehamletandcrypt settlements clustered around aplaceof T to the16 arnto he The cave settlementsintheIonianarea C rypts th centuries. the Surrounding

in

the P ro vince th or 15

of th

century. th

the district ofMottola. the district San SimeoneinFamosa, ontheborder to San Leonardo, orMadonnadellaScala, or very commonin othercave sanctuaries, like Old andNew Testaments are onthewhole name). Similarimagesandscenesfrom the the Temple (imagethatgave thechurch its with apicture ofthePresentation ofJesus in Child portrayed intheByzantinestyle, and Grotta (Bari), cave church Madonnadella History A

19 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 20 Apulia andthusconnectingtheChannelto Sea. Adriatic oftheRoute part Angel, anover 2500-km-longroute to leadingfrom Normandy stretch was given themeaningfulnameof “pilgrims’ way”. The viaFrancigenaisalsothelast ofcallonthewayport totheEast. This road was calledthe “”, whilethislast insumptuousmonuments townbecauseofitsbeinga butfamous especiallyimportant rich reached through aroad branchingofftheancientvia Traiana connecting Troia toSiponto, a excellence’. Already intheMiddle Ages, itwas known astheSacred Mountainandcouldbe anditsexpressions through spirit art.religious The Garganoistheplaceofpilgrimage ‘par routes towards awide rangeofsightsattestingthis andoffers theHolyLandforcenturies Apulia, theextreme tipofthepeninsula, hasbeenthecrossroads ofallthedevotional The HolyRoads of SanMichele Monte Sant’Angelo (), entrance tothecave F have stayed thesamefortwo millenniathankstothediffused devotional practices. venerated asasaintforlongtime, Apulia isrediscovering the oldpilgrims’ pathsthat ollowing thetracesofSaintPiodaPietrelcina, timeagobut already canonizedashort Arcangelo History A

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San Giovanni Rotondo (Foggia), the sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie on the day of Padre Pio’s canonization

“Make it big!” Padre Pio dreamt of a church, a large church, an immense house of prayer for pilgrims. His last words were: “Make it big”, big like the huge shell resting on the mountain designed by Renzo Piano to be second only to St Peter’s. An architectural structure recalling the symbol par excellence of medieval pilgrims, which can hold over seven thousand people inside and thirty thousand on the parvis, recovering the old idea of the church as an open house. Stone and wood – along with other more “immaterial” elements like transparency, lightness and vibrating light – for a large church with basic shapes, solid and plain like the great medieval cathedrals, a miracle of engineering made up of a series of huge arches (the largest has a span of fifty metres, the longest ever built!) that radiate from the centre and intersect where the altar stands, the focus of the whole building. An imposing temple that is a modern challenge to the ability of recovering our memory, tradition and magic: the memory of the humble friar that left a deep mark on this place through his personality and his work; the tradition of a two-thousand-year-old that turned the Gargano into the sacred mountain par excellence; the magic of a landscape that hasn’t lost – despite the times – its ancient

22 charm. 10 Michele. Infact, towards theendof Ages essentiallyaround thecave ofSan era fortheGargano. ofanew spiritual marking thebeginning appeared inthisplace490, 492and493, Archangel Michaelwhotraditionally Italy. , now stillfrom allover thesouthof of pilgrims, inthepastcomingfrom allover solemnly celebratedby anincredible crowd of sowing andharvest time, the Archangel is 12 was Maggiore addedinthe Santa Maria Giovanni in Tumba andthechurch of ofSan complex ofthebaptistery San Pietro, around whichthemonumental built before theyear 1000anddedicated to houses, there was alsoanancientchurch attested by records. soon evolved intoproper innsandhomes, as whichprettyfor thebuilding ofshelters those comingtovisittheholycave called S M architecture. ofmodern an absolutemasterpiece Piano toholdover 30,000peopleis forefront ofscientific research. andwell-equippedmodern hospitalatthe Casa Sollievo dellaSofferenza , avery He alsopromoted ofthe theconstruction convent delleGrazie. church ofSantaMaria justbesidetheold founded asanctuary of Padre PiodaPietrelcina. traditional destinationfortheworshippers of the Archangel . Nowadays, itisa along the pilgrims’century route to the cave an onte th th The town developed intheMiddle Monte Sant’Angeloiscalledafterthe The present town developed inthe11 In May andSeptember, ontheoccasions Above thecave, and nexttotheshelters The new church designedby Renzo The wonder-working friar, now asaint, century. century, theneedtoaccommodateall G io S vanni ant ’A R ngelo otondo th

way. practice ancientactsofpenancealongthe flowers. andthecrossesbanners decoratedwith distinguishable from oneanotherby their representation of the Garganoarea Saint Michaelthe Often they stillcomeonfootand organizedingroups,They arrive Archangel inatypical History A

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MONTE SANT’ANGELO, THE CAVE SANCTUARY OF SAN MICHELE 50 Puglia delle cattedrali La Capitanata 51

Sul fondo della navata si apre la cappella Thedell’Altissimo, “Cappella con dell’Altissimo” i grande altare inbarocco the Il campanile del Santuario, costruito backdel Santissimo of the nave, Sacramento with the large Baroque nella seconda metà del , ripete altar of the Holy Sacrament nelle sue forme la struttura delle torri di Sull’altare troneggia una statua Castel del Monte dell’Arcangelo guerriero, attribuita al A statue of the warrior Archangel Sansovino attributed to Sansovino dominates the altar

TheAlla three grotta spans si addossano of the Angevin le tre navecampate with cross della vaultsnavata adjoinangioina, the cave.voltata The a crociere, nave seems forse impostatato have been su laiduna precedenteout on a previous e analoga and struttura similar La scalinata che conduce alla structure of thedi Norman età normanna period grotta consta di ben 86 gradini

The portal leading into the Il portale di accesso alla grotta A livelloA della series grotta of tombs si apre and un cave is closed by a bronze L’attuale ingresso alla grotta dell’Arcangelo è memorialatrio su cui tablets si affacciano dating tombe back è chiusodoor dalla commissioned porta bronzea in annunciato da una doppia arcata (quella destra del to differente lapidi commemorative epochs overlook di Costantinoplecommissionata in 1076 a XIV secolo, quella sinistra ottocentesca) dominata Costantinopoli nel 1076 the hall at a levelvarie with epoche the cave dalla statua di San Michele 24 50 voltata a crociere, forse impostata su impostata forse crociere, a voltata una Puglia delle cattedrali Pugliadelle precedente e analoga struttura analoga e precedente campate della navata angioina, navata della campate Alla grotta si addossano le tre le addossano si grotta Alla del Santissimo Sacramento Santissimo del barocco altare grande i con dell’Altissimo, cappella la apre si navata della fondo Sul di età normanna età di Il portale di accesso alla grotta alla accesso di portale Il è chiuso dalla porta bronzea porta dalla chiuso Costantinopoli nel 1076 nel Costantinopoli commissionata a commissionata Sansovino al attribuita guerriero, dell’Arcangelo statua una troneggia Sull’altare atrio su cui si affacciano tombe affacciano si cui su atrio A livello della grotta si apre un apre si grotta della livello e lapidi commemorative di commemorative lapidi varie epoche varie grotta consta di ben 86 gradini 86 ben di consta grotta alla conduce che scalinata La The staircaseleadingdown to thecaveisformedbyas many as86steps the secondhalfof13 The belltoweroftheSanctuary, builtin Monte same shapeasthetowersofCasteldel Castel del Monte del Castel di torri delle struttura la forme sue nelle ripete Duecento, del metà seconda nella costruito Santuario, del campanile Il dates from the 14 the from dates one right (the arcade double a by introduced is The present entrance to the cave of the Archangel 19 dalla statua di San Michele San di statua dalla dominata ottocentesca) sinistra quella secolo, XIV del destra (quella arcata doppia una da annunciato L ’attuale ingresso alla grotta dell’Arcangelo è dell’Arcangelo grotta alla ingresso ’attuale th century) dominated by a statue of St. Michael th century, hasthe th century, the left one from the from one left century,the La Capitanata La History 51 A

25 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 26 T Rural CultureandTradition in May Nicholas’s Day celebrated traditional procession onSt Bari, scenefrom the Tarantula. for many days uptothevery lastnight, the “Notte della Taranta”, namelytheNightof toplaythousands ofpersons anddancetogether, entrancedby therhythm ofthepizzica hasbeenabsorbedbyDionysian widelypopularhigh-profile ritual music events thatattract thefightbetween thespideranditsvictim.during Today whatisleft over ofthisarchaic and ofbitesbutfeature alsotheattackanddefence moves ofthepizzicawhichsimulates aseries The music would becomeincreasingly frenzied reaching anincredibly , fast thetypical upasweetwhile themusicians struck andrhythmic tune. clothes, tosway moaningandcallingonGodforhelpbeginning theirhipsrhythmically bitten by the spider, cametogether and started, procession, afterashort totake offtheir May, theday ofSaintsPeter andPaul. That was theplacewhere thetarantate, namelywomen chapel dedicatedtotheapostlePaul every andlocatedontheoutskirts year onthe29 against it. InGalatinathewholepopulationusedtogatheronsquare infront ofthe till thedancerwas overcomeperformed by exhaustion, mimingtheanimalandfight The danceaccompaniedby andfiddleshadtobe theinsistentrhythm oftambourines by atarantula(usuallyatharvest time). dancemeanttohealmen– but above purification old ritual all women –supposedlybitten , delrimorso Laterra Fifties towrite tarantismo bookonthe , hismostfamous namelytheage- was DeMartino wellErnesto aware inGalatinathe whenhearrived ofitsspecial charm means knowing thatthisisalandoflegends, evocative visionsandgreat power. Scholar The Salentoarea deserves aspecialmentioninthissense. itstraditionsandevents Narrating the usualstateofthingsatleastonceayear. seasons, whichisbestexpressed by thecarnival moralthatsecures thepossibilitytosubvert revengebe thecomponentsofthattemporary onthepacedictatedby thepassingof intotherealare protagonists. usuallymarginalized usedto Sunday clothesandvillagefairs misery. thesecelebrations thepopularculture issublimed, During thosewho transforming in theirSunday’s contrastwiththeirdailylifeoftenmarked by bestinsharp hardship and Week. suchevents, During of inasort wasting”,“ritual peopleofallsocialclassesdress feasts, suchasthepatron saint’s theHoly days andthecelebrationstakingplaceduring The processions, blessing theplaces they gothrough, ofthemostspectacular are attheheart stagesoflife.the crucial their mostspectacularexpression ontheoccasionoffestivities andtheevents thatmark phenomenon andmusic genre ofitsown. thedailylifeandreach These customspermeate Holy Week, theCarnival, andfolkdanceslike thepizzicathathasnow becomeaseparate celebrationssuchasseaprocessions, andnon-religious religious linked tothe therites of the regional cultureof theregional iswell preserved andkeeps beinghandedonthrough many tradition ofpeasants, shepherds andseamenatthesametime. The authenticmemory he ritual, andcelebrative liturgical dimensionsin Apulia have theirroots inthe statue ofthelocal Patron Saint Valentine decorated withoranges onhisfeastday. (Bari), thefestival ofthe “propaggini” and Vico delGargano(Foggia), the On thefollowing pages: Putignano History th (layers) of A

27 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 28 History A

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The Carnival of Putignano with the aim of contrasting the harshness Putignano’s carnival is the Apulian of the winter and the barrenness of nature. carnival par excellence. Its origins go back Different social groups are mocked with to 1394, when the of the Martyr dances and songs each Thursday till the end arrived in town escorted by of the Carnival. vinedressers disguised with dead branches. On the last Sunday, the carnival ends The festivities start on the 26th of December, with the famous parade of papier-mâché the feast of the Martyr Saint, with the floats. rite of the “Propaggini” (namely the vineyard’s dead branches). This rite recalls the ancient peasant The Rituals of the Holy Week procession that was most probably marked The celebrations of the Holy Week offer by great solemnity and age-old rituals, very a key to understand this society’s conception far from the cheerful atmosphere it is filled of life as a perpetual fatigue. with today. On this occasion, songs, dances The solemn processions, parades and allegoric representations are performed of papier-mâché statues depicting the

The Protagonists of the Holy Week The penitents of Noicattaro, Valenzano and ; the perdune of Taranto; the Mysteries of ; the pappamusci of , very similar to the perdune of Taranto. During the Good Friday rituals in Bari (like in many other locations of the region), the so called misteri, holy images of the passion and death of Jesus Christ, are carried along in the procession. Children often become the big protagonists, all dressed up for the occasion and

30 taking their role very seriously. the West. saints worshipped asmuch intheEastas St. Nicholasisone ofthefew examplesof was sacred adownright theft, thecultof fromApart any moraljudgmentaboutwhat in1087.Minor were toBari transferred The relics ofthebishopMyrain Asia used topromote oftowns). therebirth widespread intheMiddle Ages (often ofrelicsmisappropriations thatwere very of St. Nicholaswas oneofthemany T inNoicattaro.rituals in Taranto theHoly andduring Week’s moments intheprocession oftheMysteries relationships, meaningful hasparticularly made ofsympathy anddeepinterpersonal seem contradictory. This culture ofdeath, at thesametime, even thoughitmight collective behaviours canbeexhibited dramatic expressions. Rathermerry ,so calledMysteries achieve intensely S aint he The transfer of the mortal remains The transferofthemortal S N aint icholas

W ho C ame

from

the S ea : boats, dinghies, motorboats andfishingboats worship it. A picturesque fleetof rowing Bari’s populationgathered onthecoastto andfor on display forthemany pilgrims roadstead forthewhole ofthesecondday, on board aboat; itstays anchored inthe roads ofthetown andisthen carried follows theprocession through themain reaching thebasilica’s square. fromreturn ) andcrosses theoldtown ontheir (where theshipsallegedlyarrived fromIt departs theharbourofSanGiorgio, costumes. pageant inperiod a historical the holyrelics inthecityisrecalled through Molfetta (Bari) andthe Molfetta (Bari) “perdune” in Taranto The Holy Week inFrancavilla Fontana (Brindisi), on the7 Every year, theSaintiscelebratedinBari basilicas. sanctuary Christian important ofonethemost led totheconstruction Churchrelationships and withtheEastern marked thesupremacy ofthecityin Afterwards, thepatron saint’s statue The arrival of the relics in Bari oftherelics inBari The arrival th , 8 th and9 th ofMay. of The arrival History A

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The Museums of Folklore and Rural Culture Apulia offers many possibilities to learn about the rural context and old daily tools used for farm work. The most famous museums of folklore and rural culture are located in Monte S. Angelo, , in the ancient oil mill next to the abbey of Santa Maria delle Cerrate near , but also in , Altamura, Bitonto, Brindisi, and . Among the most peculiar museums we should mention the Wheat Museum (Museo del Grano) in . The museum makes use of an extremely modern multi-media technology employed to explain the many exhibited objects and the life in the rural world. Among the many ancient working tools on display we can Grottaglie (Taranto), the pottery district find ploughs, harrows, threshers, barrels, and several other tools used for the mowing and milling of wheat. filled with devotees pays homage to the saint. In the evening, against a spectacular To the Rhythm of the “Pizzica” background of fireworks, the statue is The songs of the grika population in the brought back to land and the triumphal Salento peninsula are the living evidence procession starts again lasting until late at of an ancient language and an almost night. extinguished rural culture. The celebrations go on for the whole Music and singing were used to third day among concerts, shows, fireworks, accompany not only the whole life cycle festive lights and a huge local attendance. of a human being (from birth to death),

Ceramics in Grottaglie Grottaglie is situated along the eastern border of the province of Taranto dominating the plain stretching from the Murgia foothills towards the sea. The town was founded in the second half of the 10th century, when the populations of nearby villages found shelter in the caves of the surroundings escaping the Saracen incursions. Rapidly, a proper settlement formed in the area of these caves. It became so densely populated that Robert entrusted the of Taranto with its government as a . Grottaglie is known as the region’s leading centre in the production of art ceramics. The town boasted 42 potteries and 5000 workers already in the 18th century. The life of the entire neighbourhood of the cammenn’ri (which are the chimneys of the old wood kilns) revolves around the manufacturing and trading of terracottas and ceramics, in particular the typical capasoni, large amphora-shaped containers used to preserve oil and wine. Castello Episcopio holds the most significant Apulian pottery museum, split into five sections

32 (archaeology, majolica, traditional pottery for everyday use, contemporary items, Nativity scenes). art performances takingplaceevery performances art August. Taranta (Nightofthe Tarantula), acycleof festivals, especiallyintheyearly Nottedella today’sa popularphenomenonduring street explain how the “pizzica” hasbecomesuch olddancingrituals) (women performing the pizzica. nearby farms, toplay music, singanddance young andtheelderlymeet, alsofrom accordions andtambourines, boththe intoaparty:is turned To thesoundof floor. Inthe evening, thewholeplace work ismovedthe farm tothethreshing tobacco hastobeharvested, andmuch of hot summercomes, itistimeformowing, community. (from January toDecember)ofthewhole but alsothecyclesofproduction andfeasts De Martino’s studiesonthetarantate isoverWhen spring andthe extremely the final concert ofthethe finalconcert “Nottedella Taranta” Agostiniani, whoselawn hostseachyear in (Lecce), Convento theformer degli La Nottedella Taranta. constant promotional oftheFondazione efforts towns oftheGrecìa aswell astheaccurateand Istituto DiegoCarpitella, ofthe11 thesupport oftheSalentoprovidedcultural heritage by the documentation andpromotion and oftheart The event ismadepossible by thestudies, Conventoformer degli Agostiniani. picturesque settingofthelawn infront ofthe inMelpignanostagedthe a hugeconcert anniversary.celebrated itsthirteenth Itendswith in themonthof August, whichhasalready province ofLecceandtheGrecìa Salentina folk music takingplaceinseveral towns ofthe The Nottedella Taranta isafestival ofSalento History A ugust A

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Handicrafts Many shops and workshops throughout the Salento offer local handcrafted products: all kinds of ceramics (rustic, sophisticated, decorated, and so on), embroidery, lacework, and objects made of olive wood. Especially interesting are the papier-mâché products, a typical art practised in Lecce, as well as the wrought iron and “pietra leccese” (the soft stone typical of this area) items, which are masterly handcrafted by local craftsmen. The best purchases can be made in the small markets in the neighbouring villages, which offer a large variety of traditional objects of wrought iron and terracotta.

One of the Three Kings of heat-modelled papier- Rutigliano (Bari), typical whistles mâché by the Piemontese brothers in Lecce, known under the name of “I Messapi”

Rutigliano’s whistles Rutigliano, in the , is the capital of terracotta whistles. In January, there is a winter festival dedicated to this object, which coincides with the celebrations for the patron saint’s day, Sant’Antonio Abate. The whistles are a real attraction for collectors, as they boast a long tradition. Their raw material, clay, apparently gave the town its name (Rutilianum = red soiled town). Beside the mass-produced pieces for commercial purposes, there are still traditional handcrafted whistles, true works of art, which reproduce caricatures of the typical figures of town life – among them the monk, the priest, the carabiniere, men and women with exaggerated features, the lady with the umbrella. Archaeology has proved that the forefather of this strongly symbolic imaginary is the colourful rooster, which has become the emblem of these cheerful amulets.

Lecce’s papier-mâché Affordable, light and resistant, papier-mâché is a quite inexpensive material producing excellent results in a short time. Papier-mâché began to be used for religious purposes in a mystic and pagan context. The oldest evidence of its use dates back to the 17th century and the technique stayed practically unchanged until the present day. The papier-mâché is a handicraft employing plain raw materials such as waste paper processed with starch paste, straw and wire for the internal structure, as well as plaster and colour for the finishing. Once the statue’s size has been set, the artisan models its face, hands and feet in clay, then pressing them into a plaster mould. The phases of the process are the following: modelling the body with straw and wire around a wooden stick fixed on a base. Then the figure is covered with paper soaked in starch paste. The statue is then put to dry for a few days, after which further details are applied with the help of fire. Once this is completed, the

34 craftsman begins the dressing and painting. History A

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36 Ostuni (Brindisi), the window of the cathedral Westand Sea. ontheshores oftheMediterranean East between halfway civilization a of – ideas of exchanges and peoples between meetings continuous of up made – evolution long the betrays look monumental whose villages rediscoveredand be and to waiting towns stones, profane and sacred imaginary: collective the in role significant a played often have that treasures area hidden this in is rich how and missed, they much how shows section This Italy.the of “Great of Art”.South However,the reachedmemory seldom theythe pursuing culture and education person’s a complete to meant were which throughVenice, , , passing routes followedtraditional often centuries past the of Travellers scholars and A rt Art B

37 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 38 T Cathedrals andSpiritualSites Trani, thecathedral of the cultural contributions inthisregion. of theculturalcontributions –enable ustoappreciate diversity thegreat ofthecenturies made inthecourse andvariety buildings, with their complexity and diversity – often also in consequence of rearrangements and Gravina, southinMonopoli, andfurther Brindisi, Otranto, Lecceand Taranto. These oneof striking the particularly Trani, aswell asthoseofMolfetta, Bitonto, Ruvo, Altamura from eachother. The mostremarkable are thoseof Troia, Lucera, Foggia, Canosa, Barletta, is worth noticingthattheappealofthesebuildings ismostlyduetotheirbeingalldifferent monumental cathedralswere built following themodelofSanNicoladiBari, althoughit took aleadingrole level. bothasanarchitectural modelandatspiritual Mostof Apulia’s of Christianity.sanctuaries Thanks tothewidelyworshipped relics ofthisforeign saint, it isrepresentedthis itinerary by thebasilicaofSanNicolainBari, oneofthemostimportant cathedrals in Apulia. Even thoughithasnever beenabishop’s see, of afundamentalpart phenomenonof they offered support appraised forthegreat inboostingtheflourishing byand partially notperfectlyhonestmeans, in medieval timestheseobjectswere highly bythatthey containedholyrelics. thefact to belegitimated byAcquired partially chance They are ofurbancommunities, usuallylocatedinthevery heart whosepower usedoften Soaring belltowersSoaring stillrepresent areference pointforbothlocalsandforeigners. year. his ismaybe themostclassicalofpossible itineraries, suitable forany seasonofthe l ucer Tr oi a a C anos Foggi R uvo diPuglia a a g ravin Sipont M a Barletta onte Sant’angelo Bitont o T r o ani a ltamura Mo T aranto lfetta Bari Mare Jonio M onopol Mare i Adriatico ostuni Brindisi galatin important important The locationsof themost l a ecce Apulian cathedrals otranto Art B

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Trani, the cathedral

Due to the unusual height of the and of the building as a whole, the three apses projecting on the seaward front appear particularly tall and soaring

The upper church is a spacious three-nave hall split by a double row of six coupled columns

Covering an area as wide as the one of the upper church, the “crypt” of Santa Maria is actually located at today’s street level A staircase enables access to the ancient sacellum of San Leucio 40 tower from thebell be reachedonly church andcan sides ofthe run alongthree The galleries passegeway forpedestrians its basewithalarge arched the buildingandprovidedat The belltowerisattachedto elements architectural andornamental few butpreciouslycarved The façadeemphasizesthe after havingbeenrestored preserved insidethechurch Barisano da Trani thatisnow extraordinary bronzedoorby in combinationwiththe reliefs, shouldbeimagined decorated withfigurative The mainportal,lavishly Art B

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Between East and West The cathedral dedicated to San Nicola, in the very heart of the old town of Bari, is not a cathedral, actually, but a very famous sanctuary. It was founded in 1087 by the Benedictine Elias on the area formerly occupied by the Byzantine praetorium, with the primary aim to hold the relics of the Saint that had been purloined in Myra in Asia Minor by seamen from Bari. A whole series of structural details of this building constituted a total novelty in the Apulian Romanesque, like the deep arcades surmounted by galleries that run along the sides, ending up to conceal the hardly jutting out transept, the asymmetrical towers that frame the front and the continuous wall on the east side that incorporates the apses and the two towers, becoming a proper façade facing the sea.

A Ship Stranded on the Cliffs White and monumental, the cathedral of Trani rises high above the sea dominating the old town. Founded at the end of the 11th century in order to hold the relics of a young Greek pilgrim called Nicola, who had died in Trani in the odour of sanctity, this church took the place of an older basilica dedicated to Santa Maria. The complex structure of the new building, made up of the proper upper church, two additional bodies below – one arranged lengthwise, the other transversally - and the crypt of San Leucio, was closed on the plain front by the bronze door (today preserved inside the church) created in the 12th century by Barisano da Trani, whose fine chisel work is reflected by the masterly crafted stone frame looking as if made of ivory.

Top: Bari, , Abbot Elia’s

42 throne

Bottom: Trani, the cathedral Franciscan cowl. devout homage tothisholysitedressed in the lords ofConversano. The deadpay their last pantheon, asdidlaterNuzzoBarbaforthe thechurch intothefamily’shall andturned grave and thoseofhisparents insidethe the sonoftwo placedhisown founders thisalready building, very articulated enrich . andtheLifeofSantaCaterina Christ To further from theApocalypse ,Genesis, the theLifeof fully covered withfrescoes reproduce scenes foreign tothelocaltradition. walls Itsinterior vaults thatare oncompoundpiers completely d’Enghienandfeatures crosshis wifeMaria 1391 by delBalzoand RaimondelloOrsini ofagothicbasilica.the pattern Itwas built in at all, asthechurch was designedaccording to impressionfirst isthatofnotbeingin Apulia andsolemnbuilding,at thisreally grand the oftheSalentoregion.in theheart Looking islocated d’Alessandria Santa Caterina even theattacksby the Turks. ofhumankindmanagedtosurviveand history This wonderful mysterydepictingthesense Paradise, aswell ofthe asmonsters Apocalypse. seasonalworks,various pictures ofHelland withzodiacalsigns,intertwined imagesofthe popular legendsandtheclassicalrepertoire, from theOld Testament, the Cycle,Arthurian life tree, whosebranchesdepictscenesdrawn 1163, itisdecoratedwithahugeandamazing covers thewholenave andpresbytery. Dated mosaic, a precious “carpet” that still nowadays enlivened by ofitshugefloor thecolours sack of1480, thecathedralisasolemnbasilica victimsofthe 800 martyrs Turks the during everybody stillremembersthemassacre ofthe T Caterina d’Alessandria,Caterina thenave Bottom: Galatina(Lecce), BasilicadiSanta mosaic Top: Otranto(Lecce), thecathedral, nave andfloor A C C C he a a The church ofGalatinadedicatedto In Italy’s town, easternmost where terin thedral M olorful ystery a

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Bari, Basilica100 Puglia di S dellean cattedrali Nicola La Terra di Bari 101

Il fronte absidale, rivolto al mare e aperto da uno The galleries, wich can be I matronei, accessibili dalle torri, splendido e ampio reached from the towers, assicurano la percorribilità di tre finestrone, si configura run along three sides of the lati dell’edificio come una vera e propria building faccata destinata ad essere avvistata da lontano

Alla torreThe gallerydi nord-ovest, with six-light windowsprobabilmente overlooking preesistente the large all’edificio,arches along si addossò the north la wall wasgalleria attached esafora to che the sovrasta north-west Il ciborio a baldacchino gli tower,arconi dellawhich parete was probably segna anche visivamente settentrionaleolder than the building la presenza dell’altare maggiore e si innesta su un pavimento a mosaico che ricopre interamente il presbiterio e la curva absidale

La cosiddetta “cattedra di Elìa” è stata ricollocata nel presbiterio a metà degli anni Cinquanta del XX secolo

Nella cripta, estesa sotto l’intero presbiterio, si venerano le reliquie del Santo titolare LaThe facciata, façade, stretta framed tra due by torri two towerssecondo following un modelloa model di of transalpineascendenza oltralpina,origin, features è aperta plain da windowssemplici finestre and is e dominated dominata dal by theportale central centrale portal Entrambe le fiancate della chiesa sono scandite dalla successione di profonde arcate cieche 44 settentrionale parete della arconi gli sovrasta che esafora galleria la addossò si all’edificio, preesistente probabilmente nord-ovest, di torre Alla ascendenza oltralpina, è aperta da aperta è oltralpina, ascendenza 100 semplici finestre e dominata dal dominata e finestre semplici La facciata, stretta tra due torri due tra stretta facciata, La Puglia delle cattedrali Pugliadelle secondo un modello di modello un secondo portale centrale portale I assicurano la percorribilità di tre di percorribilità la assicurano matronei, accessibili dalle torri, dalle accessibili matronei, lati dell’edificio lati arches marked byseriesofdeepblind Both sidesofthechurchare profonde arcate cieche arcate profonde di successione dalla scandite sono chiesa della fiancate le Entrambe relics areworshipped is theplacewhereSaint’s underneath thewholepresbytery, The crypt,whichdevelops del Santo titolare Santo del reliquie le venerano si presbiterio, l’intero sotto estesa cripta, Nella away to besightedfromfar like atruefaçademeant large window, isshaped with abeautifuland the seaandadorned The apsidalfront,facing avvistata da lontano da avvistata essere ad destinata faccata propria e vera una come configura si finestrone, ampio e splendido uno da aperto e mare al rivolto absidale, fronte Il fifties ofthe20 presbytery inthemid- Elia” wasmovedtothe The so-called“Throneof and theapsecurve covering thepresbytery mosaic floorentirely altar andrestsona presence ofthemain also visuallythe The ciboriummarks XX secolo XX del Cinquanta anni degli metà a presbiterio nel ricollocata stata è Elìa” di “cattedra cosiddetta La absidale curva la e presbiterio il interamente ricopre che mosaico a pavimento un su innesta si e maggiore dell’altare presenza la visivamente anche segna baldacchino a ciborio Il La Terra La Bari di Art th century 101 B

45 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 46 Mediterranean peoples. Mediterranean with theatmosphere offaraway times, when thisarea was acrossroads of inthemigration andbehindclosedgates, hiddencorners stunningviews filled intocharming also offering like open-airmuseums, downright collectionsbut inbeautifuloldchurches andart rich Polignano, Monopoli, Lecce, Otranto, GallipoliorNardò. Many ofthesetowns appear as MonteSant’Angelo, Lucera, Troia, Barletta, Ruvo, Bitonto, Bari, Gravina,like aspectacularBaroque outdoorstageset, Molfetta, andthelistmightgoonwithsuchnames and architecture juttingoutintothesea; Franca, Martina thetown ofmusic looking filled withthepeculiarlightofMediterranean; Trani, themonumental cradleofhistory cone-shapedroofs fortheparticular ofitshouses;famous Ostuni, thewhitewashed peculiarities.present very uniqueandcharming A few examplesmay include Alberobello, workswith theirunrivalled quantityofarchitectural ofart, andpictorial but they still These littletowns notbecompared tocitieslike cancertainly Rome, andFlorence, the pastbut are stillvibrant, withlife. bustling andthriving tracesleftbyandcraftsmenof inthetangible artists symbiosis andwhichare notonly rich destination, dottedwithsmallcitieswhere present andpastlive inacloseandprofitable has onlyrecently rediscovered industry The tourism Apulia asanextremely attractive U Cities forArtLovers Gallipoli (Lecce), Baroque balcony itineraries and yet worthwhileitineraries visiting. ofoverlooking therisk might run sightssituatedoutsidethewell-known tourist heritage,sed tothemonumental beautyofourclassicalart even travellers expert Art B

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Lucera (Fg) mosque. This church is one of the rare traces Along with Brindisi, this town was one of the French influence on the regional of the strongholds of the ancient Romans in architecture. The same Gothic style also Apulia. It enjoyed the right to its own marks the Chiesa di San Francesco, money and became a municipium after the an aisleless church built shortly after the . According to Cicero, it was “one cathedral and following its pattern with of Italy’s most flourishing cities”. simpler shapes, though. The large amphitheatre dating back to the Augustan age is an evidence of that Troia (Fg) glorious past. This imposing building of Troia was founded in 1019 by Byzantine elliptic shape was erected on behalf of local catepan Basilio Boioannes on the site of the magistrate Manlius Vecilius Campus in a ancient city of Aecae, thus maintaining the natural depression just outside the town same strategic position along the old road walls. Destroyed by the Byzantines in 663 network. The Chiesa di San Basilio dates A.D., the town experienced a rebirth with back to this first period in the town’s history. Frederick II of . Under his It features a simple basilica architecture rule the town was populated from 1224 with three naves and probably served as a to 1246 by a Saracen colony of former model for Santa Maria’s cathedral which rebels that had been moved by Frederick was built a few years later. Around 1093, from to this area. Later, Charles I given the growing importance of this city of Anjou ordered the construction of the within the political and military context of large towered city wall which is about the Norman Mezzogiorno, the cathedral one kilometre long and nowadays known was enlarged and took on the appearance as the castle. Inside the wall ring the we still see today. At the end of the first mighty ruins of the Angevin citadel and construction phase in 1119, the façade was Frederick the Second’s imperial palace embellished by the large bronze door, a are still to be seen. The Anjous also built work by Oderisio da , who also

48 the cathedral on the site of the former sculpted the side door added in 1127. Mediterranean area.Mediterranean The old town is marked towardssame timeasa bridge thewhole tiedtoEurope whileacting atthe firmly Bari dating from Late Antiquity. Colossus, amore thanfive-metre-tall statue town’s bronze landmarkisthefamous the Picture Gallery N “De ittis”. The inviaCialdini,Della Marra whichhouses the mostbeautifulofwhichisPalazzo palaces,well as some sumptuousaristocratic Chiesa delle like oftheJesuits themonastery and Sepolcro; several Baroque complexes Romanesque style; theBasilicadelSanto impressive cathedralbuilt intheGothic- with numerous oldbuildings, suchasthe venue forculturalevents. Barlettaisdotted holding thetown museum andactingasa of therecently restored castle, today Modern Age, asattestedby thepresence outpost intheMiddle Ages aswell asinthe place in1503. Itwas military acrucial (duel) between ItaliansandFrench took Barletta Apulia’s city isanindustrious capitalBari Disfida This isthecitywhere thefamous ,Anime delPurgatorio as Barletta, thecastle’s stonebridge Bari, theskylineofoldtown district Roman amphitheatre Lucera (Foggia), themonumental entrancetothe Provinciale “C. G iaquinto”. Provincia thathousesthe Pinacoteca by thetalltower ofthePalazzo della resembles alongoceanliner, overlooked the shore, seapromenade theeastern centuries; withtheatres andpalaceslining style ofthenineteenthandearly twentieth “borgo murattiano” was built inthetypical additions oftenmarkingolderedifices. The number ofRenaissanceandBaroque numerous medieval churches andagreat include interesting sightsintheolddistrict plan.was laidoutfollowing agrid Further known as murattiano”,“quartiere which district adjacent tothenineteenth-century the oldtown centre iscalled, isimmediately Basilica diSanNicola). “Bari Vecchia”, as powers (thecastle, thecathedraland the symbolsofsecularandecclesiastical small eastward-looking headlandaround that were built inancienttimesonthe ofchurchesby andfortifications aseries Art B

49 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide

portal, a courtyard with portico and a bas-relief decoration.

Brindisi Under the Romans Brindisi was the end station of the , the Empire’s gate to the East; it has maintained this role ever since, and in the Middle Ages its harbour witnessed crowds of pilgrims and crusaders from all over the Christian West setting sail to the Holy Land. The city holds numerous remains from its rich past like the Castello svevo, for example, built by Frederick II in 1227 to control the inner harbour and made up of a square keep with corner towers. Castel alfonsino, also known as Castel Rosso (Red Castle) or Forte a mare (Sea Fort), dates back to the 15th century and was built by Alphonse of on the island of Sant’Andrea. The Romanesque duomo was rebuilt in the course of the 18th century, but still preserves, around the main altar, Brindisi, the end column of the Appian Way some fragments of the original mosaic floor generally attributed to priest Pantaleone. The same priest signed the amazing mosaic Bitonto (Ba) floor of Otranto’s cathedral, which dates With an economy mainly based on back to 1165. Another building dating from agriculture, this city is especially famous for the Middle Ages is the Tempio di San its production. Its charming old Giovanni al Sepolcro, an early evidence town is dominated by the Romanesque of Holy Land military orders settled in cathedral that reproduces the features of . Supposedly, the church was Bari’s Basilica di San Nicola in a smaller built in the period from the late 11th to the scale. Bitonto’s highlights include the early 12th centuries according to a typical Abbazia di San Leo, a Benedictine early-Christian pattern with round layout. abbey dating back to the 9th century, and A few kilometres out of town, following right outside the town the seventeenth- the road to San Vito, lies the Chiesa di century Chiesa del Crocifissowhich Santa Maria del Casale built under holds canvas paintings and frescoes by Angevin rule. It features a stunning two- local artist Carlo Rosa. There are also colour wall facing and an elegant gable several noble mansions dating from the façade lined with small blind arches and Renaissance and the Baroque age: Palazzo decorated with a hanging projecting canopy Sylos Sersale nearby via Sedile, Palazzo above the main entrance. The interior of Regna (on piazza Cavour), and Palazzo the church is almost completely covered Sylos Calò (on via Rogadeo, holding the with frescoes. Particularly impressive is National Gallery “Girolamo e Rosaria the depiction of the Last Judgment on the Devanna”). Last but not least, Palazzo inside of the façade, a work by Rinaldo da Sylos Labini, in via Planelli, is a beautiful Taranto dating from the beginning of the th

50 residence characterized by a Catalan Gothic 14 century. Santa Maria di Terra di Bari, Borghi autentici L recognition. In fact, many of them appear included in the listof ofthese places is a true expression. In recent years some of thesegenuine towns spirithave of been awarded an “official” ensures the survival of the human species, its monuments and thosetheir traditions size is which concerned, preserve as the they most are actually much closer than the largerof tourism cities and knowledge.to the “human scale”These that places are to be consideredhistory, of a “minor” civilization, importance only traditionsas far as and culture despite picturesquetheir peripheral sidelocation through in relation a series of tosmaller the main towns routes whose present-day look epitomizes centuries of Puglia, Sub-Apennine that displays Apulia’s less well-known and less Mediterranean aspects with the ChiesadiSanDomenicobuilt in include theMonastero diSantaChiara, Baroque town centre. The mainsights anditselegant traditional embroideries the chieftown, bothforthe itisfamous city oftheprovince. rival of A historical Nardò (Le) and bearlaterLatininscriptions. mythological scenesfrom theMetamorphosis three bas-reliefs are left, whichdepict fountain”), structure ofwhoseoriginal is theFontana ellenistica(“Hellenistic images. Another oftheoldtown’s highlights withsacred thefaçades tiles thatenrich decoration isreplaced by paintedmajolica called “Lecce stone”, thehabitualplastic material,typical localconstruction theso- tuffisusedinsteadofthe where Carparo ancient citywalls thesea. facing Here, shoreline, following ofthe thecourse built inthe16 ,Purità Santa Teresa andSanFrancesco) churches (amongthemChiesadella ofpalacesand is hemmedby aseries fromartists NaplesandLecce. The island inpaintingsby Baroque rich gallery in themiddleby thecathedral–areal perchedappears onanislanddominated Gallipoli (Le) Smaller Towns ocorotondo After Lecce, thisisthesecond-largest Known asthe “beautiful city”, Gallipoli O rsara, Melpignano includes (in Valle d’Itria), th community A L -18 euca lberona th and centuries along the centuries

. Apulia also boasted six Besides the cities famous for their art and architecture, Apulia displays its more , never forgetting the rural origins and culture of which the very “image” in the Grecìa Salentina, and the “Consorzio intercomunale del Capo” of and O Pietramontecorvino tranto (another town of the Gargano), and (towns of the Daunian Sub-Apennine), Bandiere arancioni example ofBaroque street furniture. obelisk built in1769, represents atypical The Gugliadell’Immacolata, akindof earthquake, andthemedieval cathedral. the 16 Salandra Nardò (Lecce),Immacolata obeliskinpiazza the , besides (Salento), and th century andrestored century afterthe1743 Borghi d’Italia Cisternino in 2010, again featuring the Daunian Vico del and , like G A A argano lberobello lberona, , and Cisternino Art Sant’ . The list of . A gata di and in B

51 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 52 A The Baroque Croce Lecce, ofBasilica diSanta thefaçade rules ofarchitecture.rules architectural absurdity, andflashy where thedecorationsare to sorich overcome the very overflowing andalmostsuspendedmidair. ofthe Thesoulandmagic ApulianBaroque isthis Santa Croce inLecceisareal feastofgarlands, festoons, leaves, flowers ofallkinds, andfruits thatendsupprevailingornamentation over itself. thestructure churchThe very of famous The roots of Apulian Baroque tasteforaredundant decorationand lieinaparticular attested by decorationsonbalconies, thelavish exterior windows andmainentrancedoors. palacesisstill of aristocratic oftheinteriors What went richness lostintheunimaginable of theBaroquescenery was thechurch, there are alsofineexamplesofcivil architecture. palaces takes itsnamefrom thevery cityofLecce(“pietraleccese”). Although theideal South ».The soft stone used in the artful decorations ofchurches,South ».Thesoftstoneusedintheartful convents, private architecture, thankstowhichthecityofLecceisalsoknown asthe«Florence of the longside theRomanesque, theBaroque istheotherattractionof Apulia’s San Seve Foggia ro Barletta T aranto Bari Conversan Putignan Mare Jonio

F

r o a n o c F a o v n i t l a la Mar n Monopol a Gallipol tina Franca Nard i ò i Mare Brindisi The locationsofthemost Adriatico Lecce Galatin monuments in well-known Baroque Art a Apulia B

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Lecce168, BasilicaPuglia delle di cattedrali Santa Croce La Terra d’Otranto 169

L’altare dedicato a San ATrionfi riot of di fruits, frutti, flowers,fiori, puttini little e Francesco da Paola, affiancato ghirlande rendono la parte putti and garlands marks the Le teste di apostoli da dodici Storie della vita e superiore del prospetto il upper part of the façade, the occhieggianti sui capitelli della datato 1614 fulcro visivo di tutto l’insieme The heads of the apostles peep actual focus of the whole navata rimandano out of the capitals in the nave, composition simbolicamente alla visione a symbolical reference to the dell’Apocalisse Apocalypse

Retaggio di un immaginario tipicamente medievale, una serie di figure umane e ibride Il profondo coro A series of human and hybrid sostiene vigorosamente è concluso da figures, a typically medieval l’ordine superiore della un’abside ottagonale heritage, vigorously supports facciata costolonata, dilatata the upper tier of the façade da nicchie laterali

Sobrio e misurato rispetto all’esuberanza del prospetto, l’interno della chiesa ricalca il classico impianto a croce latina diviso in tre Three entrances line the navate Nella zona inferiore del bottom part of the façade prospetto, diviso da sei grandi Una successione serrata di divided by six large columns colonne sormontate elaboratissimi altari costituisce, with figured capitals da capitelli figurati, si aprono nelle navate laterali, uno tre ingressi straordinario assaggio della bravura degli artisti leccesi 54 prospetto, diviso da sei grandi sei da diviso prospetto, Trionfi di frutti, fiori, puttini e puttini fiori, Trionfi frutti, di fulcro visivo di tutto l’insieme tutto di visivo fulcro 168 serie di figure umane e ibride e umane figure di serie da capitelli figurati, si aprono si figurati, capitelli da Retaggio di un immaginario un di Retaggio tipicamente medievale, una medievale, tipicamente ghirlande rendono la parte la rendono ghirlande superiore del prospetto il prospetto del superiore l’ordine superiore della superiore l’ordine Nella zona inferiore del inferiore zona Nella sostiene vigorosamente sostiene Puglia delle cattedrali Pugliadelle colonne sormontate colonne tre ingressi tre facciata dell’Apocalisse visione alla simbolicamente rimandano navata della capitelli sui occhieggianti apostoli di teste Le Lecce’s craftsmen evidence oftheskills succession areanexceptional altars liningtheaislesinclose The extremelyelaborate bravura degli artisti leccesi artisti degli bravura della assaggio straordinario uno laterali, navate nelle costituisce, altari elaboratissimi di serrata successione Una images depicting datato 1614 datato dodici da affiancato Paola,Francesco da L’altareSan a dedicato The altardedicatedtoSan 1614, isframedbytwelve Francesco daPaola,dated the LifeofSaint Storie della vita della Storie Stories from La Terra La d’Otranto naves layout withthree classic Latin-cross outside, followsthe compared tothelavish of thechurch,if unassuming interior The plainand navate tre in diviso latina croce a impianto classico il ricalca chiesa della l’interno prospetto, del all’esuberanza rispetto misurato e Sobrio e with sideniches octagonal apse ends inaribbed The deepchoir da nicchie laterali nicchie da dilatata costolonata, un’absideottagonale è coro profondo Il concluso da concluso Art 169 B

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A true lady: Lecce Basilica of Santa Croce. The massive One would expect Lecce to be a stiff front of the two buildings is marked by a and gaudy town, whereas its charm is parade of decorations with impressively on the contrary rather plain and fine. It strong chiaroscuro effects that transform is worthwhile starting the route at Porta the windows’ contours into shining and Rudiae and then follow the road across the whirling frames. Baroque town leading to the monumental entrance gate of the enclosed cathedral’s square (Piazza del Duomo). Martina Franca’s Elegance An ideal scenery still reflecting the Pearl of the Valle d’Itria, Martina religious and worldly rituals it framed in Franca’s old centre enclosed within the city the past appears in front of us, made up of walls is a human-scale pedestrian area with a Palazzo del Seminario, the ’s peaceful atmosphere. palace and the cathedral itself. Here, the magic of Baroque can spread This only apparently unitary view is, freely, made of music, theatre and an instead, the result of a centuries-long amazing scenery. Its most representative stratification. A similar grandeur can be monuments are the Ducal Palace and the perceived viewing the Convent of the collegiate church of San Martino, but Celestini or standing in front of the the whole old town offers pleasant sites with

The Valle d’Itria Festival The music once played and sung in the halls of the ducal palace keeps being performed each year during the famous Festival della Valle d’Itria, and even if now the stage design is modern, the setting is not less impressive. The first edition of the festival took place in 1975, and since then it has been staging yet unpublished works and rarely performed pieces. The programme covers three weeks between July and August and features rediscovered works, forgotten masterpieces of the rich European and Italian opera repertoires, famous musical interpretations as well

56 as the performances of young singers and celebrated artists (http://www.festivaldellavalleditria.it). underwent deep changes during the17 underwent deepchangesduring and 18 Founded attheendof11 cathedral dedicatedtoSanCataldo. we find Taranto’stransformations “modern” andsumptuous. Among these the aimtomake themsomewhat more restored following thenew trends, with look hadbecomeoutdated, they were Matteis. and decoratedwithfrescoes by Paolo De Neapolitan Baroque, ininlaidmarbles rich was added, anexcellentexampleof spectacular CappellonediSanCataldo chapel,enlargement oftheoriginal the Baroque style. At thesametime, asan T brackets, festoonsandscrolls. sinuous motives markingwindows, loggias, iron balconies, and largedecorateddoors numerous superbwrought palacesfeaturing 18 the mainlyduring was radicallytransformed T wo arnto th Most oftheancient Apulian churches The whole façade wasThe wholefaçade redone ina century. S th eas centuries. As theplainmedieval , B aroque G lory

th between century, it

th the

H Life andDeath, MusicandStrength. of depicting allegories Vanity, Abundance, decorated withbas-reliefs andsculptures impressive thesea, thatfaces istheloggia inspired by Salentoexamples. Particularly festoons aswell astheuseofsoftstonewere fruits, garlands, allegories, masksand exuberant decorationwithcupids, flowers, of SantaCroce inLecce). This typeof (very muchthe founders like onthefaçade composingthenameof with theletters of spiralsanddancingcupidsintermingled severe, thefront features acontinuous frieze sightitcouldappearquite Though atfirst the prestigious “De Nittis” picture gallery). building in Terra (today holding diBari Baroquethe onlyexampleofatruly civil B Barletta, Palazzo DellaMarra Taranto, cathedral, CappellonediSanCataldo Franca(Taranto),Martina palace aristocratic arlett ometown Della Marra palaceinBarlettais Della Marra a , P ainter D e N ittis Art ’ s

B

57 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 58 B Castles, ResidencesandWalled Cities Leonessa (Tower oftheLioness) Angevin walls withthe Torre della Lucera (Foggia), view ofthe partial the taste of the local courts ofthosedays.the tasteoflocalcourts structure by elementsthatstill of thefortified wasenriched reflectculturalclimateand by localfeudatories, transformed partially whoaddedmore residential details. The strictness idleness, leaving roomtounfold. forimagination For thesereasons, outposts got strategic feudatories, , anddukes were princes toopentheirhomespleasures and beginning Renaissance period. Inthosedays, andthreats dangers camemainlyfrom thesea, while and are mainlysituatedwithinthecities. There ofthe are alsocastlesandfortifications Most ofthecastlesCapitanataand Terra age datebacktotheNorman-Swabian diBari urban centres. dominating positions, thoughattimesaswell ratherisolatedatsomedistancefrom the Bovino Castel Fiorentin lucera the rebirth ofcities.the rebirth They ofvillagesorin are tobefoundeitheratthemargin castles. BuiltmainlyintheMiddle Ages, thesecastlesrose incloserelationship to esides thecathedrals, isgiven theothermosttypicalimage ofthisregion by its Castel delMont Canos o a gravin e Barletta Manfredoni a Monte Sant’angel gioia delColle Conversan Vi T este rani a T aranto Bari Mar o Mare Jonio o Francavilla tina castles The locationsof themostimportant F Monopol . F . Ceglie M. i Coper Car gallipol ovigno nardò Mare tino S.V i Brindisi oria ito dein. Adriatico lecc Corigliano Art acaj e Apulian otrant a B o

59 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide

Castel del Monte 70 Puglia i castelli

A complexSul terrazzo and a spioventefficienti rainwatervenne drainage realizzato system un complessowas created ed efficaceon the sistemslopeda di scoloroof delle terrace acque

The eight towers are Le otto torri sono praticabili accessible and hold the all’interno e ospitano vani di facility rooms and staircases. servizio e le scale. In particular, the seventh In particolare, la settima torre tower is covered by a è dotata di una suggestiva coperturaspectacular costolonata ribbed retta vault da restingmensole on corbels in forma in the di atlantshapei of Atlases

The Itwo due floorspiani del of castello the castle si distinguonodiffer by per the l’ampiezza width and e qualityla qualità of their delle windows finestre

A Unastringcourse cornice marcapiano marks the presencesegna la presenza of two levelsdei due in piani thedell’edificio building 60 copertura In 70 distinguono all’interno Le particolare, mensole è otto I dotata due la Pu torri qualità costolonata piani glia izio serv in e di per ospitano sono forma la i una del castelli delle settima l’ampiezza suggestiva praticabili castello e di le retta finestre complesso vani atlant scale. torre da di si e i Sul di terrazzo venne ed scolo efficace segna realizzato Una delle a spiovent sistem cornice la acqu piani presenza un e a i dell’edificio marcapiano dei due upper floor) open onto the courtyard and three French windows (on the as many rooms of the ground floor) pattern. Three portals (linking it to reiterates the recurring octagonal The shape of the inner courtyard livello nella piano Il (comunicanti Al cortile suo forma terra) superiore) interno interno la e con ricorrenza tre si affacciano ripete terrace rainwater from the collecting the cistern the inletofawater there usedtobe In frontofthistower, terrazzo dalle una vi Davanti porte-finestre altrettante era cisterna acque l’imboccatura dell’ottagono. a tre questa sale spioventi alimentata portali (al del torre di da

l room above portcullis operatedfromthe it usedtobeprotectedbya monumental style.Inthepast, echoes aclassicaland The mainportal,facingeast, est, Era classica Il manovrata towers light andaerationofthe Narrow loopholesprovide courtyard) openings ontotheinternal (fireplaces, toiletsand different accessories each otherandequippedwith trapezoidal roomsconnectedto Each levelismadeupofeight portale falcons waslocated artificial nestofthecourt space wheretraditionallythe terrace fromtheprotected allow directaccesstothe section, maybeinorderto tripartite vaultmissingone its nametotheunusual “Torre delFalconiere”,owes The thirdtower, knownas La l’illuminazione Strette Ogni di affacci differenziati tra uno tripartita, nome del delle direttamente permettere a artificiale la quel protetto cort risente tradizione forma a terz loro Fa spicchio, vano piano torri e e lconiere, all’insolita sul feritoie monumentale. principale La e torre, trapezoidale di dalla dei alla dotate cortile

da protetto Capitanata di una ospita (camini, individua al falconi una quale forse accedere detta sala permettono deve e terrazzo impostazione di copertur l’aerazione interno) saracinesc rivolto 8 superior dove accessor

per manca stanze il addestrat izi, serv collegate suo il Art

da nido ad a 71 e i a i B

61 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide

A Journey between the Real and the court during the Renaissance. In the same Imaginary Worlds area surrounding Bari, the castle of Gioia Let us now imagine an ideal journey del Colle is certainly worthwhile a visit, across Apulia from the north to the south, looking like the sublime symbol of the very halting at the most famous fortified Middle Ages, like that of , buildings. Those who love the groovy which had an ill fame under the Altavilla charm of castles and like dreaming of family, and became rather elegant and the fears of a not too legendary past, can sophisticated at the time of the Acquaviva stop by at Lucera, with the inexpugnable d’Aragona princes. In Brindisi, two castles fortified citadel of the Saracen city, or were built to control the port estuary. In can visit Monte Sant’Angelo, with its Oria, instead, the castle was built over the powerful fortress overlooking the town ancient Messapian acropolis and features of the Archangel. Another option would a huge drill ground able to hold over five be that of going to , where thousand men. The Spanish castle in Lecce the building of the castle offered shelter rises in its whole stateliness from the centre to the populations that had fled after the of the city, introducing us to the southern fall of the ancient , or climbing Salento. In this same region, the ideal city of up to Bovino, where the residence of the Acaja was designed and built according to dukes of Guevara dominates a fascinating the latest principles of military architecture landscape formerly populated by brigands. of those days. The castle of Otranto built Incredibly fortified outposts are the castles after the terrible massacre of 1480, still of Barletta, perfectly reflecting its defensive character, the one of Trani, looking onto the sea just opposite the cathedral, that of Conversano (Bari), the castle Bari, actually consisting of two separate Opposite: Castel del Monte (BAT) castles fitted into each other, memories (Bari), partial view of the of the two queens that ruled a flourishing courtyard of the Swabian castle 62 Art B

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reminds us of the long centuries of threats Frederick of Hohenstaufen, although there by the Turks along these coasts. The same is no certainty about his really having lived resistance had to be opposed by the castle of there. The castle is particularly famous for its Corigliano, later turned into a blooming evocative power. In fact, the whole castle is court, and is still attested by the long series built following a pattern constantly related of watchtowers dotting the entire coast of to the number eight: Its shape is octagonal, the Salento. The whole town of Gallipoli it is framed by eight towers and both the is surrounded by water, and protected by ground and the first floor hold eight rooms. a castle placed like a watchdog on the side About eight centuries have passed now facing the mainland. Similarly, the city of since the times of Frederick (born in Jesi Taranto is still nowadays watched by its in 1194 and died in Castel Fiorentino, in inexpugnable fortress rising between the Capitanata, in 1250). It is thanks to him that open sea and the bay. the building has taken the shape of a sort of lay temple, the meaningful symbol of the imperial power that should also represent its The Imperial Crown on the Murge: pretence of eternity. Castel del monte Castel del Monte, situated in the surroundings of Andria on the top of one of the Murge hills, solitary and fascinating, is an absolute must for visitors. It is a Taranto, the castle mysterious castle resembling a sumptuous residence and traditionally ascribed to Opposite: Trani, the castle 64 Art B

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Acaya (Lecce), castle, the round north-east keep During the 20th Session that took place in Merida () in 1996, Castel del Monte Bari, the castle was included in the heritage protected by the UNESCO (United Nations Educational centuries. It is also the venue of temporary Scientific and Cultural Organization). The exhibitions at international level. In Gioia Committee explained its decision with a series del Colle, the Swabian castle in the centre of cultural criteria and in consideration of the of the town accommodates the National “exceptional universal value of the site given Archaeological Museum. Similarly, the one its formal perfection and harmonious blending in Manfredonia displays the fascinating of cultural elements from Northern Europe, and mysterious Daunian steles. The castle the Eastern world and . Castel of Acaya, restored a short time ago, hosts del Monte is a unique masterpiece of medieval military architecture, expression of its builder exhibitions, shows, festivals and concerts Frederick II of Hohenstaufen.” according to an events calendar regularly promoted by the Town of and the . The castle of Barletta holds the Town Museum, which includes The Castles Today a section of archaeology (vases, coins, Today, many of the Apulian castles host bronzes), one of sculptures of the Middle social events, museums and temporary Ages (with the famous bust of Frederick II of exhibitions, offering further reasons to Hohenstaufen), and a beautiful picture gallery, be visited. The castle of Bari holds a despite the moving to Palazzo Della Marra very interesting collection of plaster casts, of the collection of famous local painter De with more than 200 reproductions of Nittis, which was donated to the city by Apulian monumental sculptures dated to Léontine Gruville, wife of the artist died in the period between the 11th and the 16th 1884. Lecce’s castle includes a library, the 66 had built a castlein1388; the Caracciolo Franca ,Martina RaimondelloOrsini of hunting, music, andarts. luxuries In remembered ofpatrons asafamily fond entire town ofFrancavilla in1572andare look like itdoestoday. They boughtthe to family was by rearranged theImperiali beginning ofthe18 beginning walls andamoat. Onlylateron, atthe square tower, too, by surrounded defensive Francavilla Fontana’s castlewas onlya proper ducalresidential mansion. Originally, the whole, thebuilding looksratherlike a exceptfor its oldsquarea fortress tower. On preserves nolongerthesevere appearanceof on oneofthetwo mainhillsofthetown, T della Valle d’Itria”. famous theinternationally “Festivalduring thebackgroundtooperasstaged offers Franca, built by theCaracciolofamily, exhibitions. The ducalpalaceofMartina archives historical temporary andvarious he The castleofCeglie Messapica, situated E v olution

of th

century, thebuilding the C astles (Lecce),Copertino castle, the portal Hall, theMythHalland Arcadian Hall). Domenico Carella andhisschool(theBible large hallsfullycovered by thepaintingsof Baroque. The mainfloorholdsseveral an iron banister, very typicalofthelocal and divided by acontinuous balcony with by twoformed floors, marked by pilasters Baroque styles: ahighBaroque façade andearly dictated by the lateMannerism following thenewtransformed directives palace in1668. Thus, theoldmansionwas town ducal in1507anderected thegrand of theNeapolitanaristocracy, tookover the dukes, amongthemostprominent families Art B

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Gargano National Park, a “”, typical local fishing

68 device, near Vieste collective revives imaginary ancientlegendspopulatedwithghosts. and lagoons silent hills,underground caves, rocky where the atmosphere and the is filled with magic or meadows rolling see, can eye as the far as fields wheat or woods rocks,lush or dunes whether completely,sand by formed disappearing ever without shape changes line horizon the where land of stretcheslandscapes, unexpected includes bright are year.naturethe livelythroughout However,and of thus colours weather,the the where land harsher a as with them to regions appearing from travellers ideal provide for climate conditions mild its and features orographic and physical course,location,its denied,that Apulia’sof geographical be cannot It of kilometres hundred eight with shoreline region would just mean a the perfect place for relaxing that beach holidays. think might One N a ture ature of Nature also Apulia Nature C

69 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 70 T The SeaandtheCoast Gargano, thebeachof Vignanotica that falls sheerdownthat falls to the sea. stretches openupwithunexpectedcaves andindentations, attimeshidden by avegetation Along theeighthundred kilometres ofthisheterogeneous coast, therockiest andharshest borders pastGinosaandCastellaneta. Porto Cesareo andCampomarino, as andreaching asfar Taranto andbeyond theregional rounded thecapeofLeuca, again, thesandycoastbegins passingUgentoandGallipoli, of having at arrived “the endoftheworld”, ontheedgeofourknown reality. Once meeting pointbetween the andtheIonianSeas,Adriatic aplaceconveying theimpression From there it’s way ashort down toLeuca, thetipofItalianboot’s heel andtheexact protuberances stretchesdesert andsuddengreen toItaly’s capeinOtranto. easternmost vital source forsurvival. theSalentocoast, begins SouthofBrindisi pastpristine whichruns by apopulationthatconsidered ofthecenturies seatheir inthecourse intoports turned Salento, stretches withlow forshort cliffs, interspersed smallbays often and promontories in spectacularflightexhibitions. From there onwards,runs smoothlytowards thecoast the This environment hasbecomethehabitatofthousandsaquaticbirds thatcanbewatched The water drawn outoftheseanaturallyevaporates generatingevery day dunes. new crystal open-air saltproduction facility.an enormous from thedrainageofabrackishlake by thatwas maninto originated patientlytransformed soil have thatshinelike created mountainsofcrystals diamonds. landscape This quitesurreal almost like alunarlandscape. diSavoia,This isthearea ofMargherita where sea, sunand point, whitesaltexpanselooking At acertain by aglittering itissuddenlyinterrupted Manfredonia thecoastfinallyfollows astraightline. there asifthey hadbeenthrown down by invisible giants. For somekilometres south of guarded by from hugestacksandsmallercliffshardly emerging thewater, scattered here and and Vieste. Then, approaching Mattinata, littlecoves oftentobereached onlyby boatare local fishingdevices, from hanging theirtops. Finesandbeachesstretch below Peschici Gargano. Itisdottedwithdazzlingwhiteandhighcliffs, withthesmalltypical “trabucchi”, scenery. An extendedsandyarea between SanMenaioandRodiintroduces theharsh coastwiththelakes ofLesinaand The northern Varano displays aquiteunusual lagoon but were built intheMiddle Ages tocontrol thesea, ofdailythreats. theorigin watchtowers alongthewholeshoreline highlightsitsvulnerability. They are now deserted high andsteep, thenbecomingoncemore low andsandy. presence of The uninterrupted situated between theIonianand Seas.Adriatic varied,The coastisgreatly attimes towardsan exceptionallylongcoastlineandashaperesembling abridge theEast, he seaisby nodoubtanessentialfeature marked ofthelandscapethisregion by Nature C

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The Watchtowers The watch towers along the coast were initially erected in the 16th century during the reign of Charles V. They were part of a control system that, in case of incursions from the sea, helped to spread the alarm for emergency defence. They are made of local stone (usually “pietra di Lecce”), and their shape is either cylindrical or that of a truncated pyramid. The towers consisted of two floors and fire was lit on the top to signal dangers. Placed at an average distance of three kilometres from each other, they dot all of Italy’s southern coasts. They are still visible along most of the Apulian shoreline, and especially those in the Salento display mostly intact structures.

Top: Torre Guaceto (Brindisi)

Bottom: Polignano, San Vito (Bari)

Opposite: the coast in the area of Porto Badisco,

72 south of Otranto (Lecce) Nature C

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Torre Guaceto dominates it from the cliff called Dirupo Age-old olive trees, Mediterranean della Dannata, and by the seventeenth- maquis, cane thickets and tall sand century tower bearing its name. dunes form the scenery of the stunning An interesting trip through this area leads national reserve of Torre Guaceto north to the Nature Reserve of Porto Selvaggio of Brindisi, whose name derives from which includes the caves of Capelvenere the ancient watchtower located on the and Uluzzo. Reminding us of past threats shore. Stubbornly saved from overbuilding, and dangers, here, too, appear the typical this 7-kilometre-long stretch of pristine watchtowers lining the Apulian coasts. coast and its picturesque landscape cover From Torre Inserraglio, Torre Sant’Isidoro approximately 1000 hectares of land and Torre Squillace in the municipal district and a freshwater marsh populated by an of Nardò, to the superb Torre Porto Cesareo exceptionally varied land and marine fauna. and Torre Chianca the shoreline is deeply Several different waterfowl species inhabit indented and broken by small coves and these wetlands and ponds along the sand bays with crystal-clear water. Today Porto dunes, such as little grebes, moorhens, little Cesareo is a well-equipped tourist resort. In bitterns, water rails, reed warblers, great reed front of its 17 kilometres of beaches with warblers, and the extremely rare moustached beautiful lidos lies an archipelago of tiny warbler. islands, the best-known of which is Isola dei Conigli.

Porto Cesareo South of Gallipoli begins the “Riviera” of Nardò with the seaside resorts of , famous for its spa and the ancient Roman harbour, and Santa Caterina, protected by Torre dell’Alto that Vieste (Foggia) 74 the many seacaves ofthesurroundings. to pointfortours Vieste isaperfectstarting town alongthecoastalroad from Mattinata. visible from away far whenapproaching the peninsula clingstoarocky headlandalready Vieste protected sheertothesea. area thatfalls the very tipoftherocky spur “Le Ripe”, a walls andoverlooked by thecastlebuilt at baronale” by issurrounded the ancient city travellers.British always beena favouritedestinationamong traditional fishingdevices called trabucchi has town withitswhitewashed housesandthe protect theshores from Turkish forays. The with several ancientwatchtowers built to reflected intheclear blue of thesea, but also where ofthe thegreen Aleppo pinesis bays. Here thecoastisdottedwithgrottoes dominates oneofItaly’s mostbeautiful Peschici A hugelimestonemonolithcalled capital oftheGargano The tourist Peschici’s calledthe olddistrict “Recinto Perched highonarocky hilltop, Peschici Peschici (Foggia) boat. According totheoldlocalfishermen, cavesfascinating that can be reached only by Narciso 59), andothersmallerbut similarly balcony (accessfromspacious artificial Via Grottafamous Palazzese, provided witha spectacular grottoesintothecliffs, like the resembling atallwall. appear from thesealike acompactfront architectural aspects. in relation bothtoenvironmental and are interesting 30metres highisparticular overlooking steep breathtaking cliffsthat Polignano including thecathedralandcastle. town centreto befoundinthehistoric it, whileinteresting tracesofthepastare town’s longbeachasifitwas there toguard dramatically from theseajustopposite Pizzomunno (“thetipoftheworld”) rises The erosion oftheseahascarved many on thecliffs’Built right edge, thehouses The picturesque oldtown district Nature C

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the small island opposite the rocky spur is Otranto called Scoglio dell’Eremita (Hermit’s Cliff) This is Italy’s easternmost city, where in memory of a saint monk who had come the sun rises earlier than anywhere else in to live there a solitary and contemplative the country. Its cathedral still filled with life, which he apparently did not quite the thousand tales narrated by its famous succeed in, distracted as he was by the mosaic, the stone-paved streets of the old incredible beauty of the place. town district echoing the pattering of feet, the narrow alleys leading down to the sea, the dazzling Mediterranean light, the Monopoli granite balls of the Saracen bombards, the This is the southernmost port of Terra walk along the ramparts, they all seem to di Bari, for centuries among the most reflect the words of Roberto Cotroneo: important since the days of the . Otranto is a “fallen star enclosing the The town’s busy art life and lively cultural whole universe, its everyday life as well scene – lasting to the present day – as well as the great events of history, where time as the recurrent destructions at the hands does not pass and everything seems to be of the Turks and Venetians actually almost connected, where it’s easy to run into the erased any ancient and medieval traces ghosts of the past and where everybody setting off the additions of the Renaissance knows to be in a special place, where time and Baroque, instead. The city is surrounded is a curve and not a straight line, and by by long stretches of sandy beaches with curving into itself it closes up on itself. “ well-equipped lidos that animate the days The Cinque Vele (“Five Sails”) awarded by and nights of the bathing season. Legambiente (Italian association for the protection of the environment) to the city

Monopoli (Bari) 76 cave canthenonlybereached by boat. becomes floodedwith water sothatthe at thefeetoftallcliffs. At hightideit through ofpathdugintotherock asort inside thecave. The grottocanbereached finds interesting prehistoric were discovered ragsinthelocaldialect.hanging Extremely in andwhichresemble zinzuli, namely the stalactitesandstalagmitesitisrich Grotta Zinzulusa,atmospheric calledafter sheer tothesea, and includesthefamous perched onahighcliffdroppingAdriatic picturesque littletown ofthelower Castro degli Spiaggia Alimini). dell’, LePiscinediSantaCesarea, and itsbeaches(Approdo diEnea, Baia promotion ofitsenvironmental heritage of itscommitmenttotheprotection and in 2010are theproper acknowledgement The municipal district ofCastro,The municipal district a Otranto (Lecce) Drago) thatdotitsshoreline. Presepio, Grotta delDiavolo, Grotta del grottoes (Grotta deiGiganti, Grotta del tothemany but alsoboatstakingtourists from thewell-equipped harbourofLeuca, oleanders. Fishing boatssetsailevery day the spaciousseasidepromenade linedwith NouveauArt andMoresque features along villas built inaneclecticstylethatblends gardens thenineteenth-century surround of beingattheworld’s very edge. Beautiful basilica definibus conveys terrae thefeeling view over themeetingoftwo seas. The museum. aspectacular Itsheadlandoffers whenvisitinga masterpiece an important diLeucaislike missing to SantaMaria Leuca Visiting theSalentowithouthaving been Nature C

77 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 78 bird species – among them herons – a safe wintering place. of the region, covering 600 hectares of Mediterranean scrub and offering to the most diverse in 1977 as a natural reserve for animal reproduction. It is one of the most interesting wetCesine areas area populated by andfarmers shepherds. Other protected areas include the WWF reservepursues of the purpose of protecting the environmental and cultural heritage of the Murgia, an recently (2004). Called Parco Nazionale dell’Alta Murgia, it includes 13 municipal districtsa andnatural reserve since 1981. Apulia’s second National Park has been establishedby muchbeautiful more dunes, covered with pine trees, cane thickets and Mediterranean scrubnest, has been while the waters are teeming with eels. The eastern side of Lesina’sthe lakelagoon characterizedsides of Lesina and Varano, there are numerous Aleppodifferent pine foreststypes of birdsand rounded that come tops to that reach altitudes of even one thousand metres. of naturalAlong habitats marks the area, such as lakes, caves, ,a true paradise. cane thickets, Embracing sandkilometres dunes, of wild and indented coastlines, a fascinating variety operation of conservation was definitely necessary in order to preserve what could be called a total area of over 120,000 hectares. Given the peculiarity and variety of this coast, this A Parks and Reserves Torre Guaceto(Brindisi), protected area marine (Monte Sant’angelo) () Masseria Combattent l ago dilesina Foresta umbr Parco nazional

and Varano and the marine reserve of the Tremiti islands form a inNational Italy. Park covering Since 1995, a large part of the promontory of Gargano, thepulia’s two lakes naturalof Lesina parks, reserves and protected areas are a unique heritage of biodiversity (Cerignola) il Mont situated along the road leading from Lecce to San Cataldo and Otranto and established del gargano e S a filz i i e M Falascone (MonteSant’angelo isola diVaran onte Barone(Mattinata) Saline diMargheritaSavoi Parco dell’altaMurgia Palude Frattarolo i schitella (Martina Franca) Murge oriental (Massafra) o i Mare Jonio ) a Porto Cesare Torre guacet Mare o Apulia’s of mostinteresting sitesinterms o le Cesine Adriatico (lecce) San Catald o environment andnature Nature Marine Protected Area Natural Reserve National Park C

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Gargano National Park hawks. Rangers supervise the park the The establishment of this park has whole year round; in summer, its well- contributed towards rising the level of equipped nature trails make it a popular protection of the territory and the creation destination for hikers and tourists from of the Tremiti’s marine reserve. The nearby seaside resorts. Tremiti archipelago, already included in the park, accounts for an extremely rich marine population and a quite big colony The Tremiti Islands Marine Reserve of Yelkouan and Cory’s shearwaters (the The small archipelago of the Tremiti famous diomedea). Islands is situated about twenty kilometres The Foresta Umbra, the green heart of off the northern coast of the Gargano. It the park that covers around 15000 hectares, is formed by the little islands of is a fascinating forest of beeches and San Nicola, San Domino, Cretaccio oaks, hornbeams, maple, yew trees and holly. It is populated by wild cats and boars, roe , badgers and by an avifauna including Opposite: the island of San Nicola, part of the woodpeckers, buzzards, kestrels and sparrow Tremiti archipelago

Map with the locations of Gargano’s sea caves. The numerous caves along the coast of Gargano between Vieste and Mattinata were given often funny and evocative names by the local population. Boat tours are offered by fishermen to visit the caves. 80 Nature C

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and Capraia. These islands feature a The Lagoons picturesque natural landscape, due to the On the northern coast of the Gargano presence of bays and caves of unique beauty we find the lakes of Lesina and Varano; and to a typically Mediterranean vegetation despite being called lakes, they are actually dominated by Aleppo pines that almost lagoons directly connected to the sea. The entirely cover the island of San Domino. elongated “lake” of Lesina, running parallel The evocative power of the islands is once to the coast, originated through the deposits more reinforced by the presence of the of the river Fortore. Its water is actually salty shearwaters, birds that are very similar to because it communicates with the sea and seagulls. the lakebed is low and marshy. The “lake” of Their melancholic chant reminds of a Varano, instead, on the other side of Monte human wailing. Legend has it that they are d’Elio, is separated from the sea by a tongue ’s travelling companions, turned of sand called the Island. It was formed by into birds by fate and bound to mourn the sediments left by the sea water. The lake eternally for their lost companion. holds freshwater thanks to the presence of numerous underground springs.

Alta Murgia National Park The Park’s emblem depicts the lesser The Wetlands of Frattarolo kestrel (Falco naumanni), a bird mostly Some of the last marshes in the region populating towers and belfries and feeding can be found along the stretch of coastline on grasshoppers. The Park encompassing the running from Manfredonia to the mouth of High Murgia was founded in 2004 as Italy’s the river Ofanto. Among them, the mouth first “Rural Park”. of the torrent Candelaro (Natural Reserve Its purpose is that of protecting the Palude Frattarolo), and the area of former natural ecosystem as well as the historical lake Salso. Both of these areas are now heritage and the economic conditions part of the National Park of the Gargano. created by human beings in this area across The territory is populated all year round the centuries, hence offering prospects for a by a large number of water birds, among sustainable and lasting growth. them many ducks, such as teals, whistle The park covers an area of 70,000 ducks, garganeys, mallards and pochards. hectares and includes 13 municipal districts In addition, there are coots, grebes, (Altamura, Andria, Bitonto, Cassano Murge, marsh harriers, water hens, penduline tits, Corato, , , bearded tits, kingfishers and herons of Minervino Murge, , Ruvo di all the different species. The Frattarolo Puglia, , , marsh is marked by its low bog, where ), as well as a greatly varied wild salicornia, tamarisks and bulrushes grow. flora and fauna, forests, woods and This vegetation conveys the area a quite phenomena; its rocky landscape is marked primordial look, probably similar to what by human presence in the form of rural, it must have looked like at the times of urban and cave settlements, thus enclosing Frederick II. within its boundaries and absolutely unique In these marshes, it may easily happen to system that can be defined a true civilization observe stilts, spoonbills, leeches, cranes and of its own. storks, too. 82 of thesalt. The Museumalsoholdsother collecting, andprocessing transportation sector, like machinesandtoolsforthe of objectsfrom thepastofthisindustry of theSaltworks) displays awiderange Museum dellaSalina(Historical Storico gulls.and Mediterranean The localMuseo spoonbills, littleterns, slender-billedgulls, shovellers, coots, shelducks, herons, flamingos, avocets, stiltplovers, widgeons, since1977.rangers paradisefor Itisatrue offorestand managedby thecorps coveringmarshland almost4000hectares marshes, famous istoday aninternationally the plainofancientSipontoandits diSavoia,Margherita whichalsoincludes The Saltworks of Margherita diSavoia The wholearea ofthesaltworks of lta Murgia NationalPark,Alta Murgia Poggiorsini (Bari) area oftheancientsaltworks. and processing ofthesalt, relief mapsofthe the systemsforcollecting, transportation documents, panelsregarding explanatory activities, andcartographic iconographic finds associatedwithfishingandseafaring Nature C

83 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 84 that supported the forming of large farm towns (like oflargefarm Gravina and theforming that supported Altamura). mainly arocky desert, almost impossible tobetilled, thesubsoilwas able toyieldthewealth and built settlementsinthesegorgesasanalternative totowns. remained While thesurface round hollows) and “lame” riverbeds).The population, (dry though, adaptedtothishabitat the samewounds leftby thephenomenaofwater erosion: ravines, “puli” (suddenlargeand Basilicata. region common withtheneighbouring They shareandshow thesameharshness withflowersbursts intothousandofcolours. Thisratherlunarlandscapehasquitealotin results extremely bare, dominatedby stonesandrocks. Itisespeciallyinsummerthatit only very few trees that signalthepresence ofasettlement. Onthewhole, thisplateau , native of Altamura, a whodefinedthis region “desert”.fact, In there are and therocks, makingitaquitemelancholicplace. Itwas agenuine inhabitantofthisarea, because here theendlessolive groves andorchards yieldtothegrey andblue ofthesky The MurgiaandItsRavines Altamura (Bari), caves inthePulo T is extremely rich in history but forms a harsh contrast with other parts of contrastwithotherparts aharsh butApulia forms inhistory is extremely rich of astheport and almostasfar Taranto. This territory, like therest oftheregion, androckyextendsallthewayhe dry Murgia towards theborderswithBasilicata Nature C

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Altamura the situated north of this Situated in a dominating position on a town in direction of Corato and measuring plateau of the western Murge hills, Altamura 400 metres in width and 90 metres in depth. is a large town with an economy mainly based on farming and industry. Its old core is marked by the megalithic walls of Gravina the ancient Peucetian settlement and the The very name of this large farming soaring bell towers of its cathedral, well- town built on the edge of a deep ravine blended into the neat nineteenth-century (that’s the meaning of the word gravina) district and well-preserved despite the reveals the identity of this place, also town’s growth. The surroundings dotted reminding us of the effects of water erosion with many caves and ravines are full of the on karst soil. Here caves can be as big as a traces of early settlements (the prehistoric basilica – like in the case of the cave church hamlet of Pisciulo) and the remains of dedicated to San Michele – or shaped like medieval buildings (the crypt pf Carpentino an oratory, as that of the Cripta di San Vito with traces of frescoes, and the cave church Vecchio, a crypt reproduced at the local under Masseria Jesce). Sinkholes are among museum. Like many other cities of the cave the typical karst phenomena marking this settlement area, Gravina features interesting calcareous soil and widespread in this area, traces of the communities that populated namely hollows formed by the breaking this area during the High Midlle Ages, up of the rock caused by the erosion of rainwater. Among Apulia’s largest sinkholes are the with a diameter of 500 metres and a depth of 75 metres, and Gravina in Puglia (Bari) 86 not asmuch from thearchitectural point Cantinaspagnola,century uniqueinitskind one ofthemostpeculiarisseventeenth- buildings anddwellings dottingthetown, some pointsthedepthofover 200metres. andwhichreaches at scrub Mediterranean by hundreds ofhectares ofwoods and canyons, ismitigated whoseharshness landscape quitesimilartothatof American gully windsfortenkilometres through a name, oneofthelargestregion. The overlooking thesame the ravine bearing is situatedinthearea ofcave settlements Laterza buildings. in numerous medieval andRenaissance typical vernaculararchitecture but alsorich town centrehistoric marked mainlyby the the ravine’s very edge, andtheinteresting ofCivita on for exampletheolddistrict Among themany caves into turned This town foundedalongtimeago The surroundings ofLaterza(Taranto)The surroundings later time(“cantina” meansalsowineshop). ata formore profane purposes transformed meantasaplaceofworship,was originally well-preserved, though. The placeprobably high-relief sculptures, notallofwhichare subjects) are tobefoundsideby sidewith (whether depictingsacred orsecular fact, itistheonlycave inwhichfrescoes decoration;of view asforitsinterior in Nature C

87 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 88 the Enchanted Corner andfinallythe the EnchantedCorner wonderful Whitecave. Monuments andoftheOwl, the Angels’passage, the Alabaster Waterfall cave, the Altar’s cave, astheirbeauty:These cavesnamesascharming theBlack cave, carry thehugecaves ofthe thousands ofyears tobuild upanastonishinglandscapemadeofstalagmitesandstalactites. underground formore thantwo kilometres, water –soscarce above ground–hastaken are called. Inthearea ofCastellana, where deepcaves andlongpassageswindtheirway presence of “trulli”, aswell number asagreat of “masserie”, asthebeautifuloldmanors Franca,of Martina Locorotondo, Alberobello, hamletsdominatedby Ostuniandrural the whitewashed background. The area features oldtowns ofasuperbelegancesuch asthose apretty down contrastagainstthe and hanging balconiesform from theterraces coveringdazzling snowfall every uniformly building. Cascadesofflowers framingwindows in clusters. are perfectlywhitewashedThese littlefarmhouses withlime, resembling a E Valle d’Itria houses andcitywalls Ostuni (Brindisi), whitewashed with theconesof “trulli”, isolatedandsometimesgathered sometimesrising called Valle d’Itria. landscapeofvineyardsThis fertile andcultivated fieldsisdotted ast of Taranto, theIoniansideofSalentomeetsgentlefoothillsMurgia Putignano locorotondo alberobello noci Mar tina Monopol Mare Jonio Fasan F Mare Cisternin . ostuni o Ceglie M. i Adriatico o The twelve Towns ofthedistrict Nature of Valle d’ Itria C

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The Caves of Castellana This itinerary of almost three kilometres runs at a depth of about 70 metres. The temperature varies between 11° and 15°C, while the humidity is high, with peaks in some stretches up to 90% and even saturation. These are the “figures” of Italy’s largest karst caves, the caves of Castellana which were discovered in 1938 by Lodi- born speleologist Franco Anelli. The origin of such a spectacular underground landscape lies in the properties of the karst territory. The soil swallows the meteoric water (which is therefore totally missing on the surface) conveying it into underground rivers that still nowadays (about 200 metres below the visitors’ feet) keep carving their way towards the sea.

Castellana (Bari), the caves

The Colonne d’Ercole (Pillars of Hercules) form The Grave, the huge chasm leading to the the entrance to the Caverna Nera (Black Cavern), After the branch of Piccolo stunning karst system, in the middle of which named this way because of a fungus coating its Paradiso (Little Heaven), one rises the colossal stalagmite group of the walls, or Caverna della Lupa (Cave of the Shewolf), reaches the Caverna dell’Altare Cyclopes (Ciclopi), measures 60 metres in because of a formation calling to mind the (Altar Cave), named this way depth, 50 in width and 100 in length. Roman she-wolf. because of the tall and slender stalagmites resembling candles.

The largest, 40-metre-tall cavern is called Caverna dei Monumenti (Monument Cave) because of the stalagmite groups rising from Caverna del Precipizio (Cave of the Precipice) is the ground, resembling huge statues. the last stop of the short cave itinerary. Behind it, more caves lead to the Caverna della Fonte (Cave of the Spring), from where a passage branches off on one side.

Guided tour through Corridoio dell’Angelo (Angel’s Passage) leads to the Caverna della Civetta the Caves of Castellana (Cavern of the Little Owl), where the shape of this bird is recognizable at the foot of a stalagmite group. Not far from it stands the Presepe (). 90 cleanly-cut fracture line. which stretches for450metres following a a hugeundergroundgorgewithtallrock walls, Passage) (Desert is delDeserto The Corridoio dripping water.dripping insuspensionby the by theiron carried situatedattheentrance,curtains tinged red owes itsnametoagroupofheavy alabaster Rosso(RedCorridor) The Corridoio from it lies the Laghetto di Cristalli (Lakefrom ofCrystals). itliestheLaghettodiCristalli by ahugetiltedstalagmite, whosetopliesontheground. Not far Column),Overturned alsoknown asthe Tower ofPisa, ismarked The largeCaverna dellaColonnaRovesciata (Cave ofthe (Baldachin). above theentrancecalledBaldacchino a naturaldome, withasemicircular formation huge cavity marked by anarched vault forming Caverna dellaCupola(Cave oftheDome)isa world”. definition of cave “the brightest inthe well the deserving alabaster shrine the Grotta Bianca(WhiteCave), an anunprecedentedThe laststopoffers view, Nature C

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The “Trulli”, Dry-stone Cathedrals its absolute glorification in the town of The “”, a timeless rural building, Alberobello. Essentially, a “trullo” is has always been associated with Apulia formed by two basic elements. The first as one of the most typical expressions of is a central square space, covered by the its peasant soul. This type of building is very widespread throughout the provinces of Bari, Brindisi and Taranto, and finds “Trulli” in Alberobello (Bari)

The “Trulli” Town Alberobello, the town made of “trulli”, is located in a territory heavily exposed to the erosive action of meteoric water, above ground as well as underground. The stratified limestone rocks are the fundamental building material of this construction that characterizes the town and the whole surrounding area. Settlers were allured to this place in the 15th century by the local landlord who needed hands to cultivate his estates. Violating the official code that forbade vassals to build towns and villages without the permission of the king, a community settled here in the days of Giangirolamo Acquaviva d’Aragona. According to tradition, when the royal inspections were announced, the count would order to dismantle the dry-stone buildings overnight and temporarily evict its inhabitants. As soon as the royal inspectors left, the houses would be built up again with the same quickness they had been torn down. The promotion of Alberobello to a royal town took place in 1797 and marked the introduction of mortar in the construction of buildings. Nonetheless, these timeless buildings, as old as the Mediterranean tradition, have not lost their charm. Before the transformations of the past century the town was laid out following the axis of Via della Chiesa (today Corso Vittorio Emanuele) and including the two districts of the so-called monumental area entirely made up of trulli (over one thousand). Starting from Largo Martellotta the district called rione Aia Piccola can be reached through Via Brigata Regina, while Via Monte Nero and Via Duca d’ lead to rione Monti. Rione Aia Piccola is the best-preserved part of the old area and the one less affected by the tourist business. Series of trulli line Via Duca degli Abruzzi and Via Verdi; walking from Piazza M. Pagano to Piazza XXIV Maggio one can see the old cluster of Case Pezzolla on the right side – a typical eighteenth-century neighbourhood – and on the left side an old granary. On Piazza del Popolo lies the little Casa D’Amore, the first house built after 1797, when the town was liberated from feudal rule. The Trullo Sovrano, the largest of these typical buildings and the only one featuring two levels, can be reached walking down Via del Gesù.

A Ornamental pinnacle B Carrózzola (round slab closing the cone- shaped roof at the top) C Chiancarelle (stone roof tiles) D Air space filled with debris E Cannela (vault built with horizontally laid rings having an upwards decreasing diameter) F connected to a system meant to convey the rainwater into the cistern G Entrance H Garret used as storeroom or for additional beds I Alcove L Cistern

VERTICAL CROSS SECTION OF A TRULLO 92 Nature C

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so-called “false” dome which corresponds bishop’s palace. The cathedral, a peculiar on the outside to the a conical roof. The building with an “Adriatic” flavour, displays second element are the additional rooms an elegant wavy profile and an impressive looking onto the central hall and having rose window on the façade. Its construction specific functions (such as kitchen and was completed in the second half of the bedrooms). From the outside, these parts 15th century. Like other notable buildings, look like bulges connected with the central its distinction is marked also chromatically cone. through the rosy-brown colour of the exposed ashlars. The monumental area of Alberobello including the districts called Monti and Aia Piccola and forming an urban complex of considerable Cisternino interest in terms of layout and architecture has Originally founded by the , been part of the world heritage protected by Cisternino offers a unique view with its UNESCO since 1996. lights and shades, the whitewashed houses, the trulli and the fortified farmhouses called masserie. The town is surrounded by a picturesque landscape that is particularly Ostuni charming in spring when the trees This city offering one of the most typical blossom. The town is a maze of stone-paved images of Apulia – it is actually known alleys and little squares, arched passageways, as the “white town” – is located in an steps and courtyards, filled with the exceptionally scenic position covering three pattering of feet and silence. It is dominated hilltops and marked by narrow alleys and by the square Norman-Swabian tower and steep winding steps, standing out against the medieval Mother Church dedicated the surrounding landscape with its dazzling to San Nicola di Bari, which holds a stone whitewashed terraced houses arranged around the original Messapian necropolis, later replaced by the cathedral and the Cisternino (Brindisi) 94 name. known whiteD.O.C. wines, its whichbears foroneoftheregion’sfamous mostwell- balconies fullofflowers. Locorotondo isalso andcharming elegant miniature portals alleys withhiddenniches, littlesquares, the valley below andthroughout thenarrow town picturesque views centre on offering attraction ofLocorotondo isthehistoric with thetypicallocalgable roofs. The true whitewashed two orthree-storey houses round layout ofitsstreets andismarked by Franca.Martina Itowes itsnametothe a hilltopoverlooks Valle justopposite d’Itria Locorotondo noble mansions. façade, andseveral smallerchurches and alongthe balcony running with itstriple bishop’s palace, thePalace oftheGovernor sightsincludethelate-Renaissance Further daPutignano. sculptor Stefano century statue ofaVirginwithChildby sixteenth- This picturesque littletown perched on Locorotondo (Bari) legendary origins – from the late 6 origins legendary anddating–accordingdi Pirro toits low hilloverlooking avalley calledCanale at adistanceof6kmfrom thetown ona little abbey church located ofBarsento includesthepicturesque municipal district natural andenvironmental pointofview. Its definitely distinguishingfeature from the is theMacedonianoak(Quercustroiana), a where themostwidespread species(90%) byand issurrounded vast stretches ofwoods a remarkable andwell-preserved olddistrict usually underdeveloped areas). Nocifeatures ofpromoting these andsupporting purpose established forthespecial mountain districts Comunità MontanadellaMurgiabarese(Italian For ofthe thisreason ithasbecomepart ofthepicturesque trullidistrict.cities north at ahigheraltitudethanthesurrounding locationontheMurgeplateau charming Noci This large farming town issituatedina This largefarming Nature th century. C

95 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 96 into exclusive seekingcompleterelaxation. hotelsfortourists and have aquitesevere look. Nowadays, they are oftenrestored andmodernized, andturned sun,Mediterranean whilethosebuilt intheSalentoappearonceagainrathersumptuous in thearea Brindisi, surrounding theirwhitewashed walls reflect thedazzlinglightof those intheMurgia, instead, are ratherlow-built andmadeofstone. and SouthofBari in thearea ofCapitanatadisplay amonumental lookandare oftenequippedwithtowers; halls decoratedwithfrescos, statues, toappear. fountainsandpergolasstarted The “masserie” It was atthistimethatdetailssuchasloggias, staircases, terraces, external grand reception features. ofornamental tofocus ontheenrichment expanded andlandlords couldbegin for defensive elementshaddecreased, whichmeantthatthe centralcore couldbegradually The “Masserie” Opposite: a “masseria” inCapitanata O major architectural changesinthe 18 is theactualresidence, usuallyprovided chapel, alsowithalittlefamily whichunderwent it, there were several work. additionalbuildings forthedailyfarm The core ofthecomplex One sidewas occupiedby themanorhouseoflandlords (andlaterthetenants). Nextto situated above anundergroundcave. The focusofthe “masseria” was itslargecentralcourt. like ofautonomouscitadel. asort Itincludeddefensive andwas structures sometimes be reconnected tothetradition of theRomanvillae. The “masseria” was organized architectureexample ofrural andofaspecifictype work organizationthatcan sightsofthe ne ofthemostcharacteristic isthe Apulian countryside “masseria”, an th and19 th centuries. Around thistime, infact, theneed Nature C

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Children’s Farms The Martina Franca Donkey In line with the regional Law n. 2 of the The area of Martina Franca is famous for year 2008, about fifty Apulian “masserie” a donkey breed that is highly appreciated have equipped themselves for social and among experts. Called the donkey of educational activities aimed at raising a new Martina Franca, it is also known as Morello awareness among farmers in relation to because of the dark colour of its coat. education so as to promote values linked to Apparently it descends from donkeys the environment and to healthy and mindful imported to Apulia from Catalonia. It is tall, eating habits in association with agriculture very robust and lively, which is why it was and the rural life as a whole. used for carrying loads by the Italian Alpine All these farms offer adults and children troops, as it was able to quickly adapt to the a series of educational programmes that difficulties of the environment. include topics like the processing of flour One of Apulia’s leading breeding farms into bread and pasta, of milk into , of the Martina donkey is Masseria Russoli grapes into wine, fruit and vegetables into situated at a distance of approximately 9 jams and preserves, the organic production km from Martina in direction of Taranto or of cereals, fruits, vegetables, honey, officinal and run by the Corpo Forestale herbs, nature trails, the watching of fauna dello Stato (Forest Rangers). and flora, the local traditions.

The Murgese Horse This horse, a highly selected breed, is bred in the so-called Murgia dei Trulli, an area included in the provinces of Bari, Brindisi and Taranto. The origins of this heterogeneous bred with Spanish, Neapolitan, Berber and Arab ancestors date back to the 15th century. Murgese horses are marked by a black coat, a considerable rusticity and an exceptional strength and vigour, qualities that are certainly to be attributed to the wild nature of the pastures where they are left to graze unattended. They used to be the pride of the dukes of Martina and were exported all over the world because of their even temperament making them suited for experienced riders as well as for beginners. Specimens of Murgese horses can be watched at the Centro di Equitazione (Horse-riding Centre) of Masseria Galeone run by the Corpo Forestale dello Stato (Forest Rangers) and located on the road to Noci at a distance of approximately 13 km from Opposite: “masserie” in the surroundings of Martina Franca. Polignano (Bari) , Fasano (Brindisi) and Bari 98 Nature C

99 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 100 this area with its historical and art heritage as well as its charming landscape. aswell asitscharming heritage andart this area withitshistorical time tooneselfandpamperone’s bodyandsoul, todiscover stillseizingtheopportunity Another optionisarelaxing wellness holiday atoneofthenumerous spas, devoting more a few stepsaway from thesea. bike trails, setamongage-oldolive golfcourses withoutforgettingtheprestigious trees just windsurfing, ortoenjoy alongtheless-known thecountryside routes oftrekking pathsand underwaterchoosing toexplore itsfascinating world, togosurfing, kiteboarding or Gargano, Vieste (Foggia) A Sport andWellbeing unforgettable setting. Dependingonthe time ofyear, possibilitiesrangefrom toenjoythe opportunity momentsofwellbeing inan andoutdoor sports pulia, landofwindandsea, scents, filledwithMediterranean holidaymakers offers Nature C

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Farm Holidays, a Relaxing Experience luckily hardly been affected by globalization. Apulia offers many possibilities to enjoy The bike trails in the Gargano so-called “green holidays”. There are National Park (www.parcogargano.it) – dozens of farms providing accommodation, more suitable for mountain bikes – follow guided tours and selling local produce, thus ancient mountain paths and mule tracks, combining genuine and healthy pleasures like the Sfinalicchio trail which covers a with the rediscovery of older life paces. distance of 63 km inland with a total drop In fact, these businesses are often directly of 1070 m (GPS location: N41°54’16.5’’, E located within the original and “natural” 016°02’57.5’’). settings of farm production, namely inside Also the dirt roads of the Alta Murgia the “masserie” that represent the most within the National Park bearing the characteristic core of rural life in this region. same name (www.parcoaltamurgia.it) offer Further information can be gathered from many opportunities for biking tours and an Agriturist, Turismo verde and Terranostra. occasion to visit the Pulo, the Visitors Centre in Lamalunga (displaying the Altamura Man) and the sanctuary of Buoncammino. Apulia on Two Wheels Apulia can also be visited at a slower pace, away from the main roads and the crowd. Here, bike lovers can find a network of paths and secondary routes which enable bikers to better appreciate the landscape and One of the typical Apulian “masserie” offering cast a glance into this rural world that has accommodation to tourists 102 com (Brindisi), Acaya (Lecce) and Riva dei Tessali (Taranto). at www.italygolfandmore. information Further andlocatedataclosedistance from thesea:farmland (Bari), Savelletri diFasano quarries andwatchtowerquarries ruins. Infact, the flora,of theMediterranean pastoldbauxite and rocky landscapefilledwiththescents idruntina” through running anevocative many; picturesque masserie the “Ciclovia thechanceofstoppingatone offers Franca, ofMartina surroundings which path following theoldmule tracksinthe dei across theMurgia right Trulli; the toOstuni, fromone running Cisternino the mostpicturesque trailsincludethe tobikes.traffic isnot restricted Someof often coincideswithminorroads where Valle andtheSalento, d’Itria althoughit woven inthearea south-eastofBari, the Golf inApulia The route network isratherdensely

Apulia features four eighteen-hole golf courses surrounded byApulia featuressurrounded olive foureighteen-holegolfcourses groves and tourist accommodation). tourist especially the offering “Agroturismi” (farms local bikingassociationsorathotelfacilities, Tourists canoftenrent bikes, eitherfrom of PuntaPalascia, Italy’s tip. easternmost Torre Sant’Emiliano, uptothelighthouse with itscave underneath, Torre delSerpe, dotted withsucholdtowers, like Torre Pinta whole coastbetween OtrantoandLeucais Nature C

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The Spas Eclectic Style and Exoticism Among the various possibilities of Halfway between Nardò and the relaxation and nature holidays, Apulia marinas of Santa Maria al Bagno and Santa also includes several spas, open all year Caterina, we find the resort of Cenate. round. They are all situated along the The place is particularly interesting owing Adriatic coast, starting in the north with to the presence of many villas (about fifty) Margherita di Savoia (in the district of built according to the most variegated Foggia), famous for its water featuring high architectural styles. They range from salt concentration. Colonial to Renaissance, from Art Nouveau ’s springs (near Fasano), to Palladian, from Moorish to Oriental. instead, are rich in sodium chloride, They were all erected after the second half bromide and iodide, properties that are of the 18th till the first decades of the 20th particularly suited in the treatment of liver century, and most of them are still furnished and gall bladder affections. Finally, Santa with fine antiques and surrounded by lush Cesarea (in Salento) is known for and well-kept gardens. Given their absolute its four natural caves with hydrotherapeutic extraneousness to the Baroque style that is sulphur springs.

Santa Cesarea Terme (Lecce), the unique profile of the Kursaal 104 recreate inthelittlespatown thesame andonce backhomewanted to Africa who hadworked foralongtimeinNorth on behalfofabuilder native ofMaglie, ofthepastcentury built atthebeginning also attheKursaalofSantaCesarea . Itwas of asimilarblooming pastcanbefound towers, gazebosandlozenges. Remainders and NouveauArt styles, decoratedwith boasting several residences intheMoorish Leuca, di the seafront ofSantaMaria taste fortheexoticandeclecticalong tip oftheregion, we canfindasimilar exotic cultures. south, Further atthevery bankers, prelates, attractedby foreign and open-minded tradesmen, doctors, aristocrats, value. They bearwitnesstogenerationsof historical,of great socialandarchitectural typical forthisarea, they are anevidence aristocratic circles ofthetime.aristocratic atmospheres thatwereoriental sopopularin Leuca (ecce) di Example ofeclecticarchitecture inSantaMaria Nature C

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106 Ostuni (Brindisi), an age-old olive tree mesn oeef n htvr otiue t frig t identity its cathedrals, forming castles, peculiarity. amid and Thus, to contributes whatever fully in means area oneself an or immersing place a of culture the understand to Trying that alsoincludesthe “flavours”. behaviours and information, understanding knowledge”,of heritage a overall picture of Apulia, of its “culture” understood as a “wide range of together these various wishes to bring “cultures” to provide one single Flavoursto culture.dedicated eating section its this whyaffect is This choices,also and which customs,traditions region’s and its this usages understand to and necessary thread soil common the fruits the their as well as of sea make ties strong which oneself ask but help cannot F lav ours and trulli one ,masserie Flavours D

107 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 108 this land. perfectly reflects identityandmakes the regional thediningtable oftheculture amirror of “giuncata”), sausagesanddesserts. This broad paletteofflavours, customsandtraditions broad rangeofcheeseproducts (“”, “”, mozzarelle, “”, “manteca”, and rice, mussels andpotatoes, and mushrooms, potatoesandonions. a Apulia alsooffers are the “tiella tarantina” (potatoes, tomatoes, mussels, rice, courgettesandonions), mussels to nameallthepossible “tielle” oroven-baked dishes; amongthem, the mostwidespread with breadcrumbs, andanchovies, pecorino potatostew, roulades). aubergine Itisimpossible (tomatoes,are eithersun-dried andaubergines), peppers orcooked fresh (artichokes stuffed mash),bean andchicory but are alsousedincombinationwithpasta, meatorfish. They vegetables. The latterare ofmanyfava thebasicingredients specificdishes(likefamous the production,elements intheregional but we shouldnotforgetfish, pasta, meat, pulsesand spectrum: essential position withinthedomesticagrifood Oilandwheatare certainly The terms “land ofolive trees” or “Italy’s field” corn actuallydonotjustice to Apulia’s Apulia boasts26different DOC wines, asuitable optiontoanyofthe meal. course offering toanythe unmistakable dish. tasteofthiscountry Mealsare always accompaniedby wine. never missingseasoning, isalways present ofrecipe, inany sort but alsousedraw, adding any typeofsauce, withfishandseafood, as well aswithmeator vegetables. Olive oil, a ways but traditionallyprepared withadressing ofbroccoli rabe. isthebasefor made bywheatsemolina, handofdurum water andsalt. They are served inmany different T The Products beans The mosttypical fresh and dry vegetables,fresh anddry mutton andfish. The real Apulian “orecchiette” noodlesare genuineness isbasedonfive fundamentalingredients: products,farinaceous olive oil, he strong pointsofthe Apulian cuisineare localproducts. Itssimplicityand Apulian dish: andbroad Flavours D

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Olive Oil ability to adapt, olive trees can yield an One of Apulia’s most important amazing wealth in a quite harsh and parched agricultural resources is the cultivation of territory. Their wealth is the oil, celebrated olive trees. by the stern and knotty age-old trunks that This age-old tree has almost become the blend into the wrinkled faces of old Apulian emblem of the region. Olive trees stand in peasants on the paintings of Domenico the landscape like a sort of rural cathedrals, Cantatore. solid and austere like old patriarchs, knotty From north to south, the Apulian and monumental like sculptures, but above territory with its 800 kilometres of coast all generous and ancient at least as the is covered all over by olive trees. Some are Mediterranean civilization itself. young, planted by far-sighted farmers, as it Enveloped in myth and sacredness, bearer and symbol of universal values, the olive tree represents for Apulia the mirror of its Age-old olive tree in the surroundings of Savelletri ancient culture. Given their strength and (Brindisi) 110 the coloniesofCelleSan Vito andFaeto inthe13 settlers, in whosearrival Apulia hadbeenfavoured by Charlesof ofpopulating Anjou forthepurpose olive oil “Gargano”; thePeranzana , ofthe atypicalvariety Tavoliere introduced region by French exclusively ontheGarganoheadland andaccountingforatleast70%oftheDOPextravergine olives (alsocalledcultivars) . From tosouthwe north findtheOgliarola delGargano, grown almost approximately ofCardigliano. 60hectares inthe district establishment ofa “Park of Age-old Olive Trees” promoted by the Town ofSpecchia toprotect Apulian environment ofage-oldolive trees”, measures are beingtaken inSalentoalsothrough the old olive trees, foughtthrough Law theregional n. 14 of2007 “Protection andpromotion ofthe the Ogliarola salentina , alsoknown orPizzuta. asChiarita Against theillegaluprooting ofage- a basiccultivar inLecce’s olive oileconomy, hasalow yieldbut produces anexcellentoil; finally, and 5-7kminland)thatshould ensure theirprotection andpromotion; theCellinadiNardò, (stretchingmonuments for40kmalongthe coast –included in aparkestablished onpurpose isproduced by and Brindisi imposingage-oldolive ofBari the surroundings living trees –true hinterlandand picked exclusivelythe Bari by hand; CimadiMonopoligrowing thevariety in oils; theOgliarola barese , alsoknownCima diBitonto as, istobefound inthe “red soil” area of the BAT provinces, andBari appreciated andusedforhigh-qualityextravergine isparticularly Apulian Olives the Apulian gold, theoil, many others, many olive trees are grown toproduce picked withouttheneedofaladder. While canbeeasily there arewhosefruit others massive, growing even 15metres tall, but harvesting.industrial Someolive trees are totheproper areothers pruned shapefor eroded, bentintoweird shapesby thewind, old.centuries Someare twisted, knottyand takes 25yearsharvest, tothefirst many are

The broad rangeof includesmanyApulian oilandDOPvarieties kinds of th century; theCoratina, quitewidespread in kilometres from Bari. Bitontoatadistanceof16 is certainly “olive oiltown” parexcellenceofthisarea developed inthe12 production; here, adownright “oil culture” inthe rankingfirst region’sis certainly oil ofBari, amongthefive provinces,territory appreciated throughout theworld. The those different table olive widely varieties instead, are meantfortheproduction ofall th -13 th Flavours century. And the D

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Wine Locorotondo and Martina are produced. The “Europe’s Winery” features two big eastern side of Taranto’s province, instead, is innovations that will give a considerable known for its red wines, and that is where contribution towards a greater appreciation the Wine Route of the DOC Primitivo of wine, and they are both promoted by di Manduria and Lizzano leads us. Other the Apulian region on the initiative of routes can take us to discover the wines the Department for Agrifood Resources. of Messapia, DOC Ostuni and Brindisi, They concern the establishment of six or to explore the Salento with its DOC IGT certifications (Typical Geographical wines Salentino, , Squinzano Indication), in addition to the 26 already and Copertino. The trip might end at the existent DOC wines (Controlled southern tip of the region, in Santa Maria Designation of Origin), and of several di Leuca, where the DOC , Nardò, “Wine Routes”, food-and-wine tourist and Galatina are produced. In the itineraries, which have been designed with provinces of Bari and Foggia, similar the purpose of combining oenology, cuisine, itineraries and Wine Routes have been history and monuments. As an example, it designed as well; they are all brought about is possible to reach Taranto by two different by the same wish, namely that of spreading routes following the driving element of the knowledge and appreciation of these wine. The first itinerary follows the wines wines and develop tourism in the areas of of Locorotondo and Martina Franca. It production. crosses the Valle d’Itria passing through well-known tourist attractions, like the towns of Alberobello, Locorotondo, Martina Franca, Cisternino and Fasano. This is the area where the excellent white wines DOC

Among Apulia’s most famous wines and a DOC since 1974, the Primitivo is a full-bodied red with an intense scent particularly suited to be matched with hearty dishes like legume soups, grilled lamb and aged cheese. It is the main grape variety in the province of Taranto (Lizzano, Sava and Manduria), where its first vineyards were planted in the last decade of the 19th century. Now this grape covers almost three quarters of this district’s vineyards and is to be found also in some municipal districts of the . An interesting note: The Apulian Primitivo and the famous (one of the most important and prolific grapes of California) have the same DNA. Thus, common genetic origins are shared by our autochthonous grape and the American one (a sort of twin that mysteriously arrived in that faraway place), with all the relevant interesting prospects in terms of business strategies. It has to be said that in this sense the Primitivo is one of the leading products of Apulia’s wine revival, which has been meeting with great success in recent years both in Italy and abroad. The region boasts other red wines – that in some cases have reached definitely competitive levels if compared to more well-known Italian wines – like those obtained from or Nero di Troia grapes. The Negroamaro is the main grape of Salento, a land with an ancient winegrowing tradition as attested by finds recovered from the depths of the sea. Used exclusively for wine production, it achieves best results in combination with grapes like Nera, and . The Nero di Troia is a well-structured red wine obtained from and marked by an intense ruby red colour and a fruity scent recalling wild berries; it is one among the region’s oldest wines native to the , an area with a long-standing winegrowing

112 tradition that has produced some excellent DOC wines. A MuseumforthePrimitivo oenology (oldwine presses andotherequipment). of thepast, theotherexplaining theevolution inthetechnology ofvinification and follows two themes, theobjectsofdailylifeandwork oneconcerning toolsofthefarmers evolution oftheemployed of wineproduction alsointerms processes. The museum tour ofSalento andthecultural rural history significancein relation tothe documentary (Museum oftheCivilization ofthePrimitivo Wine) and combinesethnographic The MuseodellaCiviltà del Vino Primitivo Flavours D

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The Bread of Altamura while the sckanète is a bread made of durum The bread of Altamura, among the best in wheat semolina, yeast and boiled potatoes. Italy, is full of the taste and fragrance of that The potatoes helped to keep the bread soft, tradition of farmers and shepherds, among as farmers needed to preserve it for a whole whom making bread is still considered week. An important step in the preparation a rite and bread is seen as the symbol of of homemade bread was that of impressing plenty and fertility, therefore deserving the wooden or iron seal of the head of the great respect. The peculiarity of this bread family onto the risen dough. The best way is its long life; it is still good after several to appreciate the rustic and plain taste of the days, its taste gets even better, some water, bread of Altamura is that of cutting it into olive oil and salt are enough to restore its large slices and enjoying it accompanied original deliciousness and fragrance. Bumpy, by garlic and , cold-pressed olive oil, with a dark crust and yellow inside, the fresh fava beans, ricotta forte (a spicy cheese bread of Altamura used to be kneaded with spread) and tomatoes. one’s knuckles and then left to rise slowly, wrapped in woollen scarves, in the warmest place of the house, the bed. Then, it was carried to the bakery. This process has left traces on the names of the bread kinds produced in Altamura: cotte, panédde, panétte, sckanète. Cotte is the name given to small buns the housewife gave to the baker paying in kind for the baking of her homemade bread. The panédde were fine buns made from white flour only the aristocracy could afford. The term panétte indicates a full loaf, 114 with meatsauce, cheese)andcauliflower. marzotica (aspicygrated withricotta conlecimedirapaentitled toboast suchtypicalanduniquedishes asorecchiette (withbroccoli rabe), pasta; ofthisfamous origins therefore,northern thefive Apulianprovincesfar are theonlyonesso Fortunately, nobodyhasbeenable toprovide sofar incontestable evidence inrelation totheassumed town ofBari. that hadtobefiercely opposedtosafeguard whatisconsidered symbolnotonlyofthe adownright theRenaissance.only during This was perceived by Apulians asan intolerable insinuation, anattack There having were abouttheorecchiette beeninvented rumours to inPiedmontand imported Apulia with tomatoes. is The exceptiontothisrule broccoli rabe, cabbage, asparagus, sometimes wild fennel, potatoes, rocket, marasciuoli, version usuallymixed oftheorecchiette with the cavatelli,strascinate orthe , aparticular pastashapes,to beserved withshort like cheese.ricotta Traditionally, vegetables have tomatoes, olive theunfailing oil, aged grated to mentionthececatelli, dressed withfresh the many othervarieties, we would like are. theworld-famous orecchiette Among delicacies; onthismatter, acaseinpoint oftheregion’s inpursuit itinerary food made –isanotherbasicmainstay alongour The DisputedOrecchiette P ast Pasta, ofcourse, -especiallyifhome a Afew years ago, was theeffort madetodestroy amyth: fresh tomatoesandsautéedmushrooms. to theproper shape; thedressing ismadeof troccolaturo usedtocuttherolled-out dough spaghetti made with the help of a tool called dishes are thetroccoli, akindofratherthick ofFoggia.amounts inthesurroundings given by mushrooms, whichgrow inlarge The favouritepastaformushroom Flavours D

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Fish One of the most exciting experiences for the eyes and the palate is that of going shopping along the booths selling seafood on Bari’s sea promenade or in the old town centre of Taranto. Actually, this should not be understood as a typical tourist attraction, but rather as a deeply rooted habit; especially in Bari, a holiday cannot be really enjoyed as such if the “crudo” is missing, namely octopuses, tiny , cuttlefish and more or less valuable seafood consumed raw in front of the booth or at the restaurant. The fish dishes of the Salento are a true delicacy; apart from the classic cozze alla leccese (mussels), they include the pupiddi in scapece, which are tiny-size fish marinated in vinegar and saffron and served as an appetizer or tasty side dish. The cozze in tortiera (oven-baked mussels) differ from similar Apulian dishes in so far as the mussels are combined with vegetables in very thin layers; this delicious and tasty dish can be enjoyed at any seaside restaurant, but above all in Taranto, a town famous for its particularly large mussels grown in the bay called Mar Piccolo. In fact, the tradition of the town of “the two seas” is dominated by fish and seafood dishes; the international dictionary of cuisine identifies a dish “à la tarantina” by its being garnished with oysters and mussels; the latter are particularly good in tortiera (oven-baked) or prepared as zuppa alla tarantina, a fish soup that includes eel, grouper, prawns and cuttlefish. 116 Andria’s ComfitMuseum and avintagemelangeur . production ofchocolateisrepresented by afew pieces ofequipment, machine suchasatempering and comfits. Theproduction are illustratedthrough techniquesandhistory aspecial video, whilethe into foursections, itdisplays documents, tools, moulds andequipmentfortheproduction ofsweets ofGiovannifactory Mucci inanelegant Nouveau townArt building centre. ofthehistoric Split the houseonpremises, isgiven, by theMuseodelConfettoin Andria setupintheoldcomfit exceptional showcase ofthisproduct, ofenjoying whichincludestheopportunity thespecialtiesof almond, in thepreparation anessentialandwidelyusedingredient ofmany sweets anddesserts. An

Another typicalproduct grown in Apulia besidesolives isthe Flavours D

117 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide 118 gastronomy thatcanpromote theeconomy oftheentire region. typical, alsoorganicproduce, holidays, farm hikingtrails, localhandicrafts, foodproducts and and improvement oftheenvironment, suchas goodsandservices withtheaimofoffering forthedevelopment factor the mostimportant ofthelocalcommunity isthepreservation groves, vineyards, scrub, Mediterranean age-oldoaks, pastures, fields. Whathasproved tobe country: trulli, masserie, lamie, cave churches, caves, karst walls, anddry-stone specchie olive protecting localtraditions, thefocusissetonenhancingelementsthatalready markthis many landscape thatoffers attractionstotourists, too.unique agricultural of Intheeffort inplainand tastydishes.rich ofCeglieMessapicaareThe hillysurroundings marked by a ofdevelopment offerinterms of the area,the-art itsproduce anditsgastronomic culture The Environment Apennine region A view ofFaeto (Foggia), alittle town intheSub- I have now ofproposing beenfocusingforyears ontheeffort acompetitive andstate-of- mention theprovince ofBrindisi, thecentre ofanarea where mostoftheoperators n relation tomeat, but of more generallytofoodasafactor “culture”, we have to Flavours D

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The New “Pugliashire” like orecchiette and fusilli, cavatelli, tagliolini, Despite its only recent entering the laganelle; then, there are the pizzelle, many tourism scene, it is doing it with great different kinds of sausages and hams, the success. Apulia’s Daunia region, the Sub- torcinelli, oven-baked or grilled lamb, noodles Apennine stretch in the province of Foggia with beans and noodles with chickpeas. often crossed hurriedly on the motorway, The excellent olive oil is never missing has won several awards such as that of the from the table. Here in the following list, “Borghi più belli” (the Most Charming some of the most popular local specialties: Villages) and the “Bandiere Arancioni” (the in , the marasciule and Flags, the Italian Touring Club’s lampascioni (a kind of wild onions), in quality award). Among its strengths, besides Bovino the cavatelli with broccoli, the the landscape, are the scents and flavours spaghetti al cotturo d’agnello (with lamb), of its cuisine, marked by plain and basic, asparagus, in but extremely tasteful dishes. The best lampascioni, mushrooms, larks, in specimen of the wines from this hilly region scallatielli and fresh cheese, in Faeto laganelle is the famous Cacce e mmitte of Lucera. with aubergines, grilled game, pasta with All the towns of the Sub-Apennines share mushrooms, ham, in Lucera cavatelli with a wide range of homemade pasta kinds, rocket, fennels and cardoons, pecorino

The Tradition of Barbecue Following to this still very popular habit in many towns, many butcher’s shops are equipped with a small wood-fired oven, the fornello, where local selected lamb and goat, veal, horsemeat and pork meat are grilled and can be consumed on the spot. These delicacies are an attraction on patron saint’s days, when the tasty grilled skewers can be taken home or enjoyed sitting at little tables outside the shops during the warm summer evenings. 120 young ones, whohave madethedifficult to meetnew producers, amongthemmany Puglia. Itisaunique foodandwineevent (Lecce) incollaborationwith Slow Food courtyards, squares andgardens of eleventh edition aswell, takes placeinthe of thetown ofNoci(Bari). (courtyards) centre and streets of the historic in thepicturesque settingofthegnostre traditional specialtiesoftheautumnseason tastings ofthenew winealongwith diPuglia; Formiche Letterario itincludes thanks totheinitiative oftheParco delle Gnostre takes placeinNovember with relevant tasting. tothevineyardsguided tours andwineries for Resources andincluding Agrifood Department collaboration withtheregional Benvenuta Vendemmia, organizedin significant takingplaceinautumn, is Turismo del Vino, oneofthemost production.regional andpromotingmany different the wineries town centres whiletastingthewinesfrom ofdiscoveringopportunity thehistoric di Stelleisasummerevent the offering Pugliaandlocalbodies,Regione Calici for ResourcesDepartment ofthe Agrifood del Vino incollaboration withthe E delicacy!). must, andthenwalnuts andchocolate: atrue vin cotto, madefrom whichisasyrup grape cicce cuotte(boiledwheat, candiedcitron, rocket, inVolturara soups, maritate and miske, inTroia pancotto withpotatoesand Marco laCatolathecauzuni, thefogliea fresh cheeseandhill-grown legumes, inSan Panni potatoeswithham, inRocchetta andlimoncelleapples,white cherries in caciocavallothe famous cheese, inOrsara cheese, , asciugavocche in Monteleone vents The Mercatino delGusto, atits Now at itseleventh edition, Bacco Another event hostedby theMovimento Organized by theMovimento Turismo

not

to B e M issed the veal zampine(sausages). with almondpaste, thewines, theoiland the area, suchasthedeliciouscakes made topromoteopportunity otherproducts of and the Town Administration. Itisalsoan by thelocal Tourist Office(Pro Loco) of thisdeliciousred fruit, andorganized isheldinJune,variety theharvest time This festival cherry dedicated to afamous Ferroviadella Ciliegia in Turi (Bari). typical andpopularproducts, theSagra café, tastingsby night). products protected by Slow Food, literary specialties’ routes, trackingthe itineraries street food, wineinthepiazza, oilandfood traces (tasteworkshops, inthepark, dinners “slow food” philosophy andtheidealpathit ofmany chefs,participation inlinewithits how andresources. The event alsoseesthe oftheregion’sheritage traditionalknow- committed themselves topromote the qualityandhavedecision ofpursuing Finally, thinkingofonethemost Flavours D

121 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide

Regional Tourism Organizations

Regione Puglia Area Politiche per la promozione del territorio, dei saperi e dei talenti Servizio Turismo – Corso Sonnino, 177 – cap 70121 Bari Tel. +39 080.5404765 – Fax +39 080.5404721 e-mail: [email protected] www.viaggiareinpuglia.it

TOURISM PROMOTION BODIES AND INFORMATION AND TOURIST RECEPTION OFFICES

Piazza Moro 33/a – Tel. 080.5242361 – Fax 080.5242329 BARI e-mail: [email protected] - www.viaggiareinpuglia.it Information and Tourist Reception Offices BARI Piazza Moro 33/a – Tel. 080.5242244 – Fax 080.5242329 ALBEROBELLO Piazza Ferdinando IV – Tel e Fax 080.4325171 ANDRIA Piazza Imbriani 11 – Tel. 0883.290293 – Fax 0883.291492 BARLETTA Corso Garibaldi, 208 – Tel. and Fax 0883.531555 CASTELLANA Via Marconi, 9 –Tel. 080.4900236 GROTTE NOCI Piazza Plebiscito, 43 –Tel. and Fax 080.4978889 TRANI Piazza , 10 – Tel. and Fax 0883.588830 Lungomare Regina Margherita, 44 BRINDISI Tel. 0831.562126 – Fax 0831.562149 e-mail: [email protected] – www.viaggiareinpuglia.it Information and Tourist Reception Offices Lungomare R. Margherita, 44 – Tel. 0831.562126 – Fax BRINDISI 0831.562149 Ceglie Via Giuseppe Elia, 18 – Tel. and Fax 0831/371003 – Messapica FASANO Piazza Ciaia, 10 – Tel. and Fax 080.4413086 FRANCAVILLA Via Oria, 4 – Tel. and Fax 0831.811262 FONTANA San Vito dei Piazza Carducci, 34 – Tel. 0831/955235-955236 – Normanni Fax 0831/955237 OSTUNI Corso Mazzini, 8 – Tel. and Fax 0831.301268 122 Information and Information Tourist ReceptionOffices Information and Information Tourist ReceptionOffices and Information Tourist ReceptionOffices FRANCA MARTINA TARANTO TARANTO TERME SANTA CESAREA OTRANTO GALLIPOLI LECCE LECCE VIESTE Troia ROTONDO SAN GIOVANNI Peschici Mattinata SAVOIA MARGHERITA DI MANFREDONIA FOGGIA 080.4805702 c/o Biblioteca Comunale -Palazzo Ducale– Tel. andFax Umberto,Corso 113– Tel. 099.4532392–Fax099.4520417 e-mail: [email protected] – www.viaggiareinpuglia.it Corso Umberto I, 121 – Tel. 099.4532397 – Fax 099.4520417 Via Roma, 209– Tel. andFax0836.944043 Piazza Castello8– Tel. andFax0836.801436 Via A. DePace, 108– Tel. andFax0833.262529 Via V. Emanuele, 24– Tel. 0832.248092–Fax0832.332463 e-mail: [email protected] – www.viaggiareinpuglia.it Via Monte S. Michele, 20 – Tel. 0832.314117 – Fax 0832.310238 Piazza J.F. Kennedy – Tel. 0884.708806–Fax0884.704511 Piazza Giovanni XXIII– Tel. 0881.970020 Piazza Europa, 104– Tel. 0882.456240 Via Magenta, 3– Tel. andFax0884.915362 Matino,Corso 68– Tel. 0884.559169–Fax0884.550013 Via Principe Amedeo, 4– Tel. 0883.654012 0884.581998 Piazza dellaLibertà, c/oStazioneF.S., 10– Tel. andFax e-mail: –www.viaggiareinpuglia.it [email protected] Via Perrone, 17– Tel. 0881.723141–Fax0881.725536 Via Castello, 10– Tel. andFax0831/738898 Information All Year Round E

123 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide Apulia on the Web

Regione Puglia regione.puglia.it

Regione Puglia – Assessorato al Mediterraneo, Cultura e Turismo viaggiareinpuglia.it

Provincia di Bari provincia.ba.it

Provincia di BAT (Barletta, Andria, Trani) provinciabat.it

Provincia di Brindisi provincia.brindisi.it

Provincia di Foggia provincia.foggia.it

Provincia di Lecce provincia.le.it

Provincia di Taranto provincia.taranto.it

Agriturismi in Puglia Agriturist agriturist.it

Apulia Film Commission apuliafilmcommission.it

Bandiere Arancioni, località eccellenti dell’entroterra bandierearancioni.it Bitrel, Borsa Internazionale del Turismo Religioso, bitrel.it dei Pellegrinaggi, dei Cammini Borghi Autentici d’Italia borghiautenticiditalia.it

Borghi più belli d’Italia borghitalia.it

Grecìa Salentina greciasalentina.org

Notte della Taranta, Melpignano, Lecce lanottedellataranta.it

Puglia Sounds pugliasounds.it

Puglia Imperiale pugliaimperiale.com

Settimana Santa in Puglia settimanasantainpuglia.it

Turismo del vino mtvpuglia.it

Turismo enogastronomico slowfoodpuglia.it

Andria (BAT), Castel del Monte casteldelmonte.beniculturali.it

Alberobello (Bari) .alberobello.ba.it

Bari, Basilica S. Nicola basilicasannicola.it

Bari, Pinacoteca Provinciale “Corrado Giaquinto” retepuglia.uniba.it

Barletta, Pinacoteca “De Nittis” pinacotecadenittis.it 124 San Giovanni Rotondo(Foggia), delleGrazie ChiesaSantaMaria Museo Archeologico Nazionale “Jatta” Ruvo diPuglia(Bari), Rutigliano (Bari), Fischiettiditerracotta Monte Sant’Angelo(Foggia), S. Santuario Michele Arcangelo Monopoli (Bari), Cattedrale Molfetta (Bari), MadonnadeiMartiri Santuario Martina Franca(Taranto),Martina S. Collegiata Martino diSavoiaMargherita (BAT), dellaSalina MuseoStorico Grottaglie (Taranto), MuseodelleCeramiche Fasano (Brindisi), Zoosafari Bovino (Foggia), Castelloducaleemuseo diocesano Parco Nazionale delGargano tarantino orientale (Taranto),Manduria Riserve dellitorale naturaliregionali Isole Tremiti (Foggia), Riserva naturalemarina Insediamenti rupestri Gravina inPuglia(Bari), Parco Nazionaledell’AltaMurgia Fasano (Brindisi), Area archeologica diEgnazia Castellana Grotte (Bari), Grotte Altamura (Bari), Centro Studi Torre diNebbia Trani, Castello Taranto, MarTa (Museo Archeologico Nazionale) Taranto, Duomo eCappelloneS. Cataldo Valle d’Itria Vernole (Lecce), Riserva naturaleLeCesine Centro di Visite Riserva marina Torre Guaceto Serranova diCarovigno (Brindisi), Porto SelvaggioNardò (Lecce), Parco Naturale Regionale Porto Cesareo (Lecce), protettaArea marina Information All Year Round conventopadrepio sistemamuseale comune santuariosanmichele cattedralemonopoli.net .it madonnadeimartiri basilicasanmartino museosalina.it museogrottaglie .it zoosafari museodiocesanobovino parcogargano litoraletarantino comune it,.it habitatrupestrepuglia parcogravine parcoaltamurgia.it egnaziaonline grottedicastellana.it altramurgia.it castelloditrani.beniculturali.it museotaranto cattedraletaranto .it valleditria riservalecesine.it riservaditorreguaceto portoselvaggio ampportocesareo .rutigliano.ba.it .isoletremiti.fg.it .it, gravinasotterranea. .it .org .it .net .it .it .it .it .it .com .it .it .it .it E

125 A Journey across All Seasons Puglia pocket guide Index of Places Page numbers in roman type refer to the text, page numbers in italics refer to pictures

Acaya 62, 66, 103 Cisternino 51, 89, 94, 103, 112 Alberobello 32, 47, 51, 89, 92, 93, 94, 112, Conversano 43, 53, 59, 62 122, 124 Copertino 59, 67, 112 51 Corato 19, 82, 86 Alezio 112 Corigliano d’Otranto 59, 64 Altamura 11, 17, 18, 32, 39, 82, 85, 86, 102, Deliceto 120 114, 125 Egnazia 11, 12, 125 Andria 17, 19, 64, 82, 117, 122, 124 Faeto 32, 111, 118, 120 Ascoli Satriano 120 Fasano 12, 15, 89, 98, 103, 104, 112, 122, Bari 18, 19, 26, 30, 31, 34, 39, 42, 44-45, 47, 125 48-49, 49, 50, 53, 59, 62, 66, 66-67, 92, Foggia 39, 53, 104, 112, 115, 123, 124 95, 97, 98, 111, 112, 115, 116, 122, 124 Foresta Umbra 79, 80 Barletta 14, 39, 47, 49, 53, 57, 59, 62, 66, Francavilla Fontana 30, 59, 67, 122 122, 124 Frattarolo (palude) 79, 82 Bisceglie 11, 15 Galatina 27, 39, 43, 53, 112 Bitetto 51 Gallipoli 46, 47, 51, 53, 59, 64, 64, 71, 123 Bitonto 32, 39, 47, 50, 82, 111 Ginosa 16, 17, 19, 71 Bovino 51, 59, 62, 120, 125 Gioia del Colle 59, 62, 63, 66 Brindisi 11, 12, 13, 32, 39, 48, 50, 53, 59, 62, Giurdignano 11, 15 71, 74, 92, 98, 111, 112, 119, 122, 124 Gravina in Puglia 17, 18, 39, 47, 59, 82, 85, Calimera 15 86, 125 71 Grottaglie 32, 125 Canne della Battaglia 11, 14 Grumo Appula 82 Canosa 14, 39, 59 Laterza 17, 19, 87 Carpignano 11, 15 Lecce 10, 33, 34, 39, 47, 51, 52, 53, 54-55, Casamassima 103 56, 57, 59, 62, 66, 79, 123, 124 15 Lesina 71, 79, 82 Cassano Murge 82 Leverano 112 Castel del Monte 25, 59, 60-61, 63, 64, 66, Lizzano 112 124 Locorotondo 51, 89, 95, 112 Castellana Grotte 89, 90, 91, 122, 125 Lucera 39, 47, 48, 58, 59, 62, 120 Castellaneta 17, 19, 71 Maglie 121 Castelluccio dei Sauri 120 Manduria 59, 112, 113125 Castrignano dei Greci 15 Manfredonia 59, 62, 66, 71, 82, 123 Castro 77 Margherita di Savoia 71, 79, 83, 104, 123, 59, 67, 89, 119, 122 125 Celle San Vito 111 Martina Franca 47, 53, 56, 59, 67, 79, 89, Cenate (località) 104 95, 98, 103, 112, 123, 125 Cerignola 32, 79 Massafra 17, 19, 79

126 Cesine (oasi delle) 79, 125 17 Monte Sant’Angelo Monte 89, 76, 59, 53, 47, 39, 18, 17, Monopoli Molfetta 30, 30-31, 39, 47, 125 Modugno 17, 19 Murge51,Minervino 82 Mesagne 123 Melpignano 33, 51, 124 Mattinata 51, 71, 75, 79, 80, 123 Matino 112 Ostuni 11,14,37,39,47,Ostuni 51,Orsara 121 59,Oria 62 Noicattaro 30, 31 Noci 89, 95, 98, 121, 122 Nardò 47, 51, 53, 59, 74, 104, 111, 112, 125 Mottola 17, 18, 19 Monteleone diPuglia121 San Menaio71 San Marco laCatola121 San Giovanni Rotondo22, 23, 123, 125 32 Sammichele diBari Salice Salentino112 Ruvo diPuglia11, 13, 14, 39, 47, 82, 125 Rutigliano 34, 125 Roseto Valfortore 51 Rodi Garganico71 Rocchetta Sant’Antonio121 Rignano Garganico11 Putignano 28, 30, 53, 89, 95 Porto Cesareo 71, 74, 79, 125 Polignano aMare 47, 72, 75, 99 Poggiorsini 82, 83 51 Pietramontecorvino Peschici 71, 75, 123 82, 79, Murgia dell’Alta Nazionale Parco Gargano del Nazionale Parco Panni 121 11,15,39,43,47,50,51,59,62,Otranto 111, 125 47, 59, 62, 79, 125 83, 102, 125 82, 102, 125 71, 72, 76, 77, 79, 103, 123 107, 112, 122 20,23, 88,89,94,103, 24-25,32,39, 7, 80, 79,69, 121 Vieste 59, 69, 71, 74, 75, 80, 100, 123 Vico delGargano29, 30, 51 Vaste 15 Varano (lago)71, 79, 82 Valenzano 30 71 Turi 121 Tuglie 32 Troia 21, 39, 47, 48, 112, 121, 123 Triggiano 17, 19 Tremiti, isole79, 80, 81, 125 Trani17,19, Torre Guaceto(oasi)72, 74, 78, 79, 125 Torre Canne104 Toritto 82 Taranto 15 Sternatia Squinzano 32, 112 Spinazzola 82 Specchia 51, 111 Siponto 21, 39, 62, 83 Savelletri diFasano12, 103, 110 Sava 112 Santeramo inColle82 51,Leuca 71,di 77, Maria 103,Santa 105, 104, 105, 123 Sant’Agata diPuglia51 San 15,Vito deiNormanni 59, 122 65, 122, 124, 125 112, 116, 123, 124, 125 53, 112 56-57,57, 59, 64, 71, 85, 89, 92, 98, 9, 11, 12, Information All Year Round 38,39, 13, 19, 30, 31, 32, 39, 50, 40-41,42,47, 59, 62, E

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Travel Notes

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