Apulia A Journey across All Seasons Pocket Guide Mario Adda Editore Regione Puglia AreA Politiche Per lA Promozione del territorio, dei sAPeri e dei tAlenti Servizio Turismo – Corso Sonnino, 177 – cap 70121 Bari Tel. +39 080.5404765 – Fax +39 080.5404721 e-mail: [email protected] www.viaggiareinpuglia.it Text: Stefania Mola Translation: Christina Jenkner Photographs: Nicola Amato and Sergio Leonardi Drawings: Saverio Romito Layout: Vincenzo Valerio ISBN 9788880829362 © Copyright 2011 Mario Adda Editore via Tanzi, 59 - Bari Tel. e fax +39 080 5539502 www.addaeditore.it [email protected] Contents A Journey across All Seasons ....................................................pag. 7 A History ............................................................................................ 9 Buried Treasures ....................................................................................... 11 Taranto’s Treasure ........................................................................ 12 Egnazia ....................................................................................... 12 The Bronzes of Brindisi ............................................................... 13 The Vases of Ruvo ....................................................................... 13 Between Legend and Reality on the Hill of Cannae ....................... 14 Ostuni – Pre-Classical Civilizations ............................................... 14 Caves and Prayers ........................................................................ 15 Dolmens and Menhirs ................................................................. 15 Apulia’s Cave Culture ............................................................................... 17 The Crypts in Terra di Bari .......................................................... 18 The Sistine Chapel in a Cave ................................................... 18 The Crypts in the Province of Taranto ........................................... 19 The Holy Roads ...................................................................................... 21 “Make it big!” ...................................................................... 22 San Giovanni Rotondo ................................................................ 23 Monte Sant’Angelo ..................................................................... 23 Rural Culture and Tradition ...................................................................... 27 The Carnival of Putignano ........................................................... 30 The Rituals of the Holy Week ...................................................... 30 The Protagonists of the Holy Week ........................................... 30 The Saint Who Came from the Sea: Saint Nicholas ........................ 31 The Museums of Folklore and Rural Culture ................................ 32 Ceramics in Grottaglie ............................................................. 32 To the Rhythm of the “Pizzica” .................................................... 33 Handicrafts ................................................................................. 34 Rutigliano’s Whistles ............................................................... 34 Lecce’s Papier-mâché ............................................................... 34 B Art ...................................................................................................... 37 Cathedrals and Spiritual Sites ..................................................................... 39 Between East and West: Basilica di S. Nicola in Bari ........................ 42 A Ship Stranded on the Cliffs: Trani’s Cathedral .............................. 42 The Mystery of Otranto: the Cathedral and Its Mosaic ................... 43 A Colourful World: Basilica di Santa Caterina in Galatina ................ 43 Cities for Art Lovers ................................................................................. 47 Lucera ........................................................................................ 48 Troia .......................................................................................... 48 Barletta ....................................................................................... 49 Bari ............................................................................................ 49 Bitonto ....................................................................................... 50 Brindisi ...................................................................................... 50 Gallipoli ..................................................................................... 51 Nardò ........................................................................................ 51 Smaller Towns ....................................................................... 51 The Baroque............................................................................................ 53 A True Lady: Lecce ...................................................................... 56 Martina Franca’s Elegance ............................................................ 56 The Valle d’Itria Festival .......................................................... 56 Taranto, Baroque Glory between Two Seas ..................................... 57 Barletta, Painter De Nittis’s Hometown ......................................... 57 Castles, Residences and Walled Cities ......................................................... 59 A Journey between the Real and the Imaginary Worlds .................. 62 The Imperial Crown on the Murge: Castel del Monte .................... 64 The Castles Today ........................................................................ 66 The Evolution of the Castles ........................................................ 67 C Nature ............................................................................................ 69 The Sea and the Coast .............................................................................. 71 The Watchtowers ......................................................................... 72 Torre Guaceto ............................................................................. 74 Porto Cesareo ............................................................................. 74 Peschici ...................................................................................... 75 Vieste ......................................................................................... 75 Polignano ................................................................................... 75 Monopoli ................................................................................... 76 Otranto ...................................................................................... 76 Castro ........................................................................................ 77 Leuca ......................................................................................... 77 Parks and Reserves ................................................................................... 79 Gargano National Park ................................................................ 80 The Tremiti Islands Marine Reserve .............................................. 80 Alta Murgia National Park ........................................................... 82 The Lagoons ............................................................................... 82 The Wetlands of Frattarolo ........................................................... 82 The Saltworks of Margherita di Savoia .......................................... 83 The Murgia and Its Ravines ...................................................................... 85 Altamura .................................................................................... 86 Gravina ...................................................................................... 86 Laterza ....................................................................................... 87 Valle d’Itria .............................................................................................. 89 The Caves of Castellana ............................................................... 90 The “Trulli”, Dry-stone Cathedrals ............................................... 92 The “Trulli” Town .................................................................. 92 Ostuni ........................................................................................ 94 Cisternino .................................................................................. 94 Locorotondo ............................................................................... 95 Noci .......................................................................................... 95 The “Masserie” ........................................................................................ 97 Children’s Farms ......................................................................... 98 The Murgese Horse..................................................................... 98 The Martina Franca Donkey ........................................................ 98 Sport and Wellbeing ................................................................................. 101 Farm Holidays, a Relaxing Experience .......................................... 102 Apulia on Two Wheels ................................................................. 102 Golf in Apulia ....................................................................... 103 The Spas ....................................................................................