PIA ZZALE CR ISTOFOR BARIVECCHIA walking. TIME CO O 30 min. LOMBO The old heart of - Start: Piazza del Ferrarese SIGHTSEEING EAT LOCAL IO SANTA like a This walk picks you to Barivecchia (Old Bari), the ci- COLONNA INFAME L Food has always been a main element of life and culture in and this is even more true in the case of 5 L SCOLASTICA ty’s historical heart. You probably won’t even be able In the middle of this square there is Colonna U and Bari. “What did you have for lunch” is a classic everyday topic of conversation and often T O A I to tell that this area has been seriously degrading Infame o Colonna della Giustizia (Infamous Co- Z TR 7 R SANTA MARIA Z E A . I people fight to have the best focaccia in town. Outsiders may define us as food obsessed. Well, we do like our B P P

N A over time. At night this labyrinth of narrow streets DEL BUON S lumn or Column of Justice) with a cannonball on A FOOD IC obsession! Here’s a (short) list of some typical Bari food specialties. CONSIGLIO T 13 S A L O with clothes hanging from the windows, traditional C A

the top. This was previously where the public were S T V A A T I N V Z 24 S A I

S C .

. N . S RISO PATATE E COZZE GNUMEREDDE S O  U

C

shops and old women selling their homemade orec- F N E punished. Now if we don’t pay our (usually) incre- O O

N L

Z

R

S. A A A V

N . T BUON E S D L S O I IA DE T STREET FOOD ( Rice, potatoes and mussels ) If you arrive in Bari over sea in sum-

AR N

I M E

I chiette (ear-shaped pasta) becomes the center of the SIGLIO C dibly high taxes, the Equitalia agency gives us high CON M A

T N

E R

A

R . E To transform the rice, potatoes mer, please don’t panic if you see a S urban nightlife. If you’re able to recover from your M E

fines. During the , the overdue borro- .

RCO Z L S A TO

IRI I R A I P A and mussels in the typical tiella big cloud of smoke rising from the night fun then enjoy this walk at early morning time: T A S wers were instead exposed to public humiliation E T FOCACCERIA I E IN A O IC A P Z R L L I I O Z A . S IC barese you have to cook them city: Bari is not burning. What you with no people around you will breathe the smell of A M BA and were made to sit riding the lion, the guardian of V I N P 2 N 6 A the sea and the charm of the history. N S altogether in the oven, measure see is the smoke of the roast and justice. In times of high tax pressure, we ask oursel- GOING OUT O them in the right proportions and daily collective bbq of gnumeredde. They are little

ves if anything has really changed… A T A R PIAZZA DEL FERRARESE T A 1 N I A H put them in layers with some ex- rolls of mixed meat inside parts (liver, lung and S C S. Let’s start from Piazza del Ferrarese. The N E S. TR SC A 17 pertise. Only our grandmothers kidney) held together by the gut of lambs. Whole Now move back to Piazza del Ferrarese and turn A SHOP square takes its name from the Ferrarese: the O S V know how to cook this dish. The first tests are usual- families love to meet on the seafront of the city L R A right: take Via Venezia and you will walk on the I T C . . IE ES 18 merchant Stefano Fabbri o Fabri who was a fa- .D R ARGO 12 P S T L A O C V O ly a disaster: uncooked rice clashes with crushed bringing their own chairs, tables and barbecue to R A S L vecchia Muraglia (old wall). Until the fascist sea- SAN MARCO BATE I E E N . T A S N mous businessman here. On the right you will see I ELIA T Z O N DEI VENEZIANI A A Z E G N A potato, and vice versa. The crucial point is that roast and eat gnumeredde altogether. ’ O promenade was made, this street (see MODERN Z PARK & RIDE G O T S M E the old Fish market and in front of you there is the O I U R O A R T T R E I N T O I once you learn it you can not describe the process R I . O V A IN ARCHITECTURE WALKING) was directly next to D . R O N . S T I P V 16 M sun clock on the facade of Palazzo Starita. There O S O R N R O V.T 19 F TO in a recipe: the only way to scientifically cook this ORECHIETTE E CIME DI C A A S N C the sea. On the bottom there is a line of milestones N S. FILIOLI NELLI ’A C N . was once an entrance door to the city on the left, C D T R Z A 25 S. E V N FAST ROADS 9 EDI L RAPE O A dish is to adjust the ingredients ad occhio (without I I V . N S E S O I of the via Appia-Traiana (108-110 d.C.). D G . O N C A E . O L N E M P V all that remains now of the original location is the S A C L E R D A I I U C V O S T L I

S C L R A V E The translation of cime di rape

E 25 C T any help of scales). 9

E E U S A

I S L 6 R A D A CATTEDRALE A N

R D

I Z R N U A A ’

T

O 21 black stones there. The door was opened in 1612 to Z

P R

O

I E N T O MODERN ARCHITECTURE

P.ZZA S DI SAN SABINO C G does not exist: it is a typical Z

TO 14 S E DELL’ODEGITRIA 15 . O allow goods to be transported to the nearby Piaz- EN D FR IA V A WALKING

FORTINO DI S.ANTONIO ABBATE O M E Apulia vegetable very similar 6 ’ L G MOLO SANT’ANTONIO

V A L O I

IO E N I IG 4 A

za Mercantile, where the marketI once was. In the R O T N E EDI

O G N NFR R V O N MA

T When you get to the top, sit on a benchI andTT AR S A A S. RE FAVE E CICORIE

V L R A C LARGO 20 E BARIVECCHIA to broccoli but with a bitter

T O M O I A O I

O L C I

RS E R V A O CO A G A R A U

V R fenced area you can also see the remaining tracks AN ET O E E S.SABINO S A

R R N V E IN Z G I TO C G D . Z C A U

O VENE enjoy the view from the Fortino di S. Antonio Aba- CA S E V U R 5 PI IA WALKING (Broad beans and chi- flavour. Orecchiette is a small

R S AC F S I ILE

A E Z T

FR O I NT

T A O

of the old street. A A D 22 RC E V

R Z E N te (14th-16th century). The saint is the guardian of M I

cory )

N M ear-shaped pasta. The traditional recipe from Bari

U Z . E

M 24

. A V P I V G E

A P 11 2 A pets: in his chapel every year on January 17th the I R

V V A 3 Fave e cicorie is re- requires these two things together, sautéed with S

I . A PIAZZA MERCANTILE L

V IA G. MURAT 28 A

23 L NO MURAT B HI T 2 GIOACC A .

D

VIA V

O

LARGO .

trendiest pets are blessed: cows, goats, horses (to- O S cently considered in V anchovies, garlic and chilli. Once you have tasted

N

E S Go straight left and you’re in Piazza Mercan- G

M E O 27 R . ALBICOCCA 31

D I O R

day there is an exhibition area). Keep on walking to I E B 25 A I Italy as a nouvelle cu- A T them joined, you can no longer think of orecchiette

T . IS RRE tile. It was the business and political center of Bari S N A A TO 8

L G L S M E B S D IOLA S. D 9 32 ’A R L . ANG O A O S admire the east façade of and his big I D A isine dish, but in Bari B O C RGO e cime di rape as two separate ingredients. until the establishment of the Murat district (1813). V O H A C N S N UY S. SAN E RLIA T E MEO 1 O S. BENEDETTO window with side columns supported VI byA elephants. A C PIAZZA BARTOL it’s very common: NAPOL T N RESCA I . T VIA NA Z A S A DEL 24 PO Z LI I FR GIUSEPPE HIA BERTO II PIAZ 16 26 62 S C PALAZZO DELLA DOGANA Z VEC V.RO 10 29 originally, it was a very poor dish. In every house PANZEROTTO S DO ESE T R I . R A A 3 VIA PASQUALE MASSARI D PALAZZO 26 GIUSC FERR A E Beyond the market was the council office 34 I Ll’INT AR E VILL NDENZA fave e cicorie is served in this very cool way: half Panzerotto is a half moon shaped . II 7 MONASTERO DI SANTA PIAZZA VITTORIO E

IA CORSO V PIAZZA and the Palazzo della Dogana (The Palace of Duty filled with soft dove-gray mashed white beans and fried yeast dough, stuffed with va-

SCOLASTICA II GIUSEPPE 33 UELE IV NOVEMBRE V Taxes, on the left of the square). RIO EMAN half filled with supergreen . It has a very re- rious ingredients. There are three ITTO V I At the end of via Venezia there is the Monastero GARIBALDI RSO C CO A II LE O UE fined presentation based on the contrast between typical variants. If you are very hun- N EMA O RI V di Santa Scolastica ( of St. Scolastica, TO R

PALAZZO DEL SEDILE O VIT 43 V S R I 4 O S C the sweet taste of the mashed white beans and gry you could try the one stuffed A I

A O

V

In Piazza Mercantile there is a picturesque 8th-11th century). In the 16th century it was inclu- 30

V I the bitter taste of the thread-like vegetables. Ne- with minced meat. For vegetarians we have the A I INN

V I C PIC

A ’

LO ded within the city walls. Today it hosts the Museo CO clock tower. This is Palazzo del Sedile, the ancient NIC A C

IA V V

M R ver without! version with cime di rape. But the classic version is I

C NI A 9 25 N V I C I PI C A A

A V V ’ V town hall. It was built in 1503 as the headquarters Archeologico Provinciale (coming soon!). In front of LO E ICCO O N I L S

IA V O L A

R the one with mozzarella and tomato. The strange I I D

R

P

A A O O

U O you now is the Molo di Sant’Antonio: you can see S of the city council. In 1820 it was transformed into A

PIAZZA EROI

B R R O name of this food comes from the dialect word

V

E M A A M I IM a theatre and later abandoned in 1835 in fear of it the entire Bari harbour from here! G DEL MARE D

A R O NT N I C A IA Q G

A I panza which means belly. Be aware: one leads to T A.

POLPO O R G

IA O V O falling. BIN N SA IA C V C 9 29 72 I C U another!

ACT LOCAL D SE H A RE U O FI ( 0ctopus ) A M GIM R 36

R V S

like a

O E T O IACIN B E G E

O S D

I E AT Second only to St. Nicholas, the pol- B E A A L P TO E R N BE 9 19 U AL E BARI, A LITTLE PARIS for an (literally, “small ”), a IA VIA L V N P I C FAT E L 37 BRACIOLA A IV A C R XX V 44 IA E V

I IA RD po (octopus) is THE legend of the real R O A O S E M

T

L O I R D

D V N drink made from equal parts of espresso SA

Due to its long history of division and local A LES GIO B G A A

D M A

R VIA . On Sundays we usually eat A LOCAL TI F I O D V N

S Bari locals. Walking on the seafront, E

explore a part of the underground Bari here: some TI N A I F E A DEEP BLACK COFFE L A

and steamed milk. What… Are you hungry too? P CA I Z Z competitions, any Italian city thinks they are the O U

35 8 T A A

D braciola. It is a roll of meat

V Z A

A M I R A T you might see an interesting show: M O 47 R

old houses and one byzantine (10th centu- I I Laura, 26, writer - Most of my 38 I

S Go with cornetto (croissant). O best. is “caput mundi” (the capital of the R E D O N G A LESS C (beef, pork or horse), filled A C I

I N NA some proud fishermen with some IG T G

U P I

A O I I UA ry). (8.30-19.30; Wed clo; entranceV € 3) AD GO R nights begin or end with somebody LA ’ U world); “Milan l’è un gran Milan” (more or less, D LO R CO A L IC N

N I

T with cheese, parsley and

T V E V

VIA A N O O G SUPPORT A.S. BARI, THEY NEED IT CO A fresh octopuses hung on their waist, E

R T O G L

AT P V V L

O A R L asking: “Why don’t we go to Nero?” S S A VI I I

I E Milan is unique) and Naples is so beautiful, that A

A I A N L A N I N G garlic. Everything in the I P

T U Z

U A N P

R

as if they are trophies. We eat them raw, after the Our local football team, A.S. Bari, is both Z A

’ A I O L

O If you want to experience the typi- C M R A IC G N after visiting it, you could even die (Goethe said). O

G R 68 46 B IA

V roll is cooked together and

O IA V

UNDERGROUND BARI #2 A A S A at the same time a blessing and a curse. The Gal- I appropriate repeated “slamming” on the rocks. If 15 A S O R DE cal Bari night, try “cicchetto e birra” AME NEGRO U M

N E N NT B A R O In Bari we proudly say: “Se Parig avess lu mar, IPE M C B A S N S I R P S N completely immersed in tomato sauce which is

G B I O V T A The Cathedral is dedicated to Saint Sabino, C IA V B D you’re afraid of raw stuff: the roasted version is letti (“Roosters”) play in a magnificent stadium, I O E (short drink and beer)! Full of brochu- R O E R A E I D A E R sarebb’ na piccola Bar’” (“If Paris had the sea, it A M A P

A O D then used as pasta sauce. The cooking is funda-

R the second patron saint of Bari after Saint Nicho- IPE I I S N C P I IN I IA R R A delicious as well. Try it on a handmade sandwich designed by the famous architect Renzo Piano L P B A IM I N R V I Z O E T res and events posters, Nero can be A N C would be a little Bari”). This popular old saying RE 48

E O L mental: la braciola needs to be cooked on a very E O EO las. He was the of Canosa, a town near Bari. D T B ME AT V A I for the 1990 World Cup and called, guess what, M A E I with olive oil and lemon.

R A I A A V O considered a Bari night life info point E L A CIP R refers to the 19th - early 20th century architec- N P G PRI

R

I I V P low fire for long hours. The digestion may be quite Z A L U Above the altar there is the icon of theIA Madonna V IA . A V

“San Nicola”, but the team always moves back I RI D S E E I 40 U Z H Z G G E E too. (Daily open; winter 11:00-2:00; LI A D ture of the city which was influenced by French P S R I P O I V S O E V A TE E long as well. Odegitria (“Madonna of good walking”). Under- I I D N A A and forth between serie A and B and the stadium D M U P ’A C

I I D R. I summer 11:00-3:00) I T

L D waves. It is also representative of a boast typical IA A V A O N N V A G

I S

ground Bari #2: under the cathedral you can visit 49 O

SSI IO E now is decrepit. Recently, some players were I A D I R I R V A IE V CA H V IG I of Bari and its inhabitants. L I A M A V IA N

V C

E V V T C the remains of the former paleochristian cathedral O N 45 L A I I

involved in a massive “betting scandal” and the D I O A

O

A ILL 39 U A T O D E R A B A O I V IA V V V N

N D C T

A A G (5th-6th century B.C.) with a mosaic floor. L I 50 41 O V A I I L TRADITIONAL RESTAURANT L club this season went officially bankrupt. - Sup A SAN NICOLA O R E C I M A N I O O A R 9 O A C B A I I N S P E M S Z R M A O D O G B I A

A A No paper menu at Vini e Cucina! The Pa- C

porters are disappointed, but at the same time O San Nicola (Saint Nicholas) is the absolute V Q R R V T A

TOURIST CLASSI A M I I V O E

I AN T A T

N S I E O A EL V PIAZZA C S A B E O glionico brothers will tell you what’s on it (we L

highly hope that with new owners in the future EL T symbol and pride of Bari. No need to tell you how C R

A M C E S Shopping streets C C A A A I L V

AI L U N O UMBERTO I NIC UNIVERSITA’ C S L D O I V O V L A A WORLD OF PANZEROTTI P A recommend you the bean mash with chicory and I A A he is recognized worldwide: venerated by both the club may reach again good results. A D I O C A Z I A 16 N A E E N P

M N I O I DEGLI STUDI A D N E A R V S

S N Y D R D Tired of the classic mozzarella e pomodo- T

the braciole). Be aware that there is a set I€A 20 menu A Are you a shopping lover and a fashion addict? The Murat district is your V D catholics and orthodoxes, his figure has inspired A I L

A A O B O S RU DI BARI M I R E I GA R N A

E L T HE A S Z IC LI V A M L I U I

ro panzerotto? Well, at Cibò there are almost 40 E U I O

R

NEVER SAY YOU LIKE LECCE you’ll have to pay, even if you tried just one dish! O CA A S kind of place! Walk through the pedestrian areas of Via Sparano and Via the legend of Santa Klaus. His name and image D VIA E V D A P A N P V S E I S BA 51 R IU E U G RRU S D A A G A N A O D I varieties! You can have your panzerotto filled with V O I R

(Mon-Sat 12:00-00:00; € 20) A There is a long historical rivalry in Apulia G A are everywhere: everybody here has an uncle E EL G N Argiro to discoverO elegant boutique and low-cost shops, big chain stores CH V L C I M O R N

R A VIA V O S I A D I I R I A N O O A I ingredients like salmon cream or “nduja” (a Cala- E between Bari and Lecce, “the Florence of South” G A R A O A called “Nicola” and in every house wall there is a M R A O ZI and luxury brands. Via Putignani, Via Dante, Via Melo, Via Principe Amedeo AN A V IS I T R C I C I R I I O D E E S ION V V IP R S bria spicy spreadable pork sausage). (19.30-00:00; SC C I I and the capital of Salento district. This is particu- V S I C M A saint image. Everybody has in his wallet a small IA G V A A O R A present a broad selection of shops joining haute couture and prêt-à-por-

A A V THE AUDITORIUM OF RAVELLO D

V A 10 A I A

Tue clo; € 5).

larly true about football. So, if you love taranta N L B picture of Saint Nicholas, including the atheists... . S V M IO G 42 A I Z Z N N A A CRISA U TA I ter. While hipstersZ could be happy with some Corso Cavour shops, fans E The church of Santa Maria della Purificazio- ON PI CI . I S R R V A IA E V S A (traditional popular dance), Lecce and VI E

O O I

L U S Z T V ne is called Vallisa church. The name refers to the of second-hand and vintage clothes will appreciate places like Anonymato BIZARRE FOOD E Z S A

P the wonderful coastlines of Salento, don’t say it A L C T E S

P L R O DELICIOUS STREET FOOD M A O people of Ravello, a beautiful town on the Amalfi I R Raw fish is an essential element of local ga- U (Via Beatillo, 19), Metro (via XXIV Maggio, 44) and Bidonville (via Melo, 124). 17 E L S in Bari (at least, don’t say it too loudly)! 52 N A D O PIAZZETTA M A B M

L Antonella, 32, freelance O N stronomy and culture. The REAL Bari people eat coast. In the Middle Ages there was a Ravello co- A A A I I Except for the department stores, most shops follow this timetable: Tue-

PIAZZA L Z A S.ANTONIO V B S B R I I lony here. The three semicircular wall structure we photographer - Every day, from A D these specialties, with just an addition of lemon O L N I CAR vs BIKE TALIA ALDO MORO R SatE 9:00-13.00/16.30-20.30; Mon morning clo. SO I Y five o’clock in the afternoon, Ma- N COR IETA DI BARI E juice: cozze nere e cozze pelose (black and hairy now see on Piazza del Ferrarese (technically spea- VIA VIA D VIA Bari actually is not that big, and more or I NI BIARI SO mussels), allievi (little white squids), ricci di mare king “apsis”) once were near the sea. Today cultu- ria, the queen of sgagliozze co- ITALIA DI VIA FA TA DI N less everything is reachable on foot. But, for CORSO CADUTI VIA DIE N VIA VIA IN ONE (sea urchins, called in local dialect “rizz” - try ral events, mainly concerts, are held in the church. oks slices of polenta stackedITAL IlikeA O WAY mysterious reasons (well, one is clear: the bus CORSO goldVIA nuggets, ready to be dipped their pulp with bread!) and, last but not least, his system doesn’t work well), we always use the car ALTERNATIVE TOURS and fried, one by one, in a pot of S majesty the octopus! To know more about local to go everywhere, even to the closest shop. The 11 LOCAL TIP O VIA Do you think rickshaws are typical only T APRUZZI G food, go to “Eat like a local”. boiling oil, and then served in a paper cone with a T ALE BARI PE C UGLI O TR P E TOURIST INFO result? Locals spend ages stuck in traffic, or, even of countries like ? You’re wrong! The TAZIONE CEN GIUSE MO P S pinch of sea salt. Even Jamie Oliver is a fan of Ma- V V I worse, looking for a parking place and eventually A OB VIA I I R E DRINK LIKE A LOCAL guides of Veloservice can drive you in an original S A A RD ria’s sgagliozze... Slurp! (€ 1-5) I FoodE and average pricesA S APR U Z Z I N paying an unlicensed car-park attendant. So, in C T L A V way through the narrow streets of the old town, O NO SELL SEP P E Italy is famous worldwide for its wine. INTI GIU R G QU V V In bars and venues, an espresso coffee costs € 0,80 and an espressino € 0.90. Ice-cream on average costs € A A I I E V I V this case, don’t act like a local: walk or use a bike. ZZ S RU I A A Apulia is no exception and the local wines (Nero explaining to you all of its secrets. Bike sharing and CAP N N I THE FIGHT FOR THE SAINT A THE OLDEST THEATRE A I CHIC MEAL V 1.50-2.R Normally, you can have a slice of focaccia for € 1-1.50 and a panzerotto for € 1.50-2. 18 UNDERGROUNDEPPE BARI #3 PERONI VS DREHER G T A E You can rent a bike from the bike-share areas GIUS 26 L 30 V 31 B renting available too. (Mon-Sat 10-19) 22 I O I di Troia, Primitivo di Manduria, Negramaro del Sa- A I U A Drinks: Peroni beer is sold for € 1-2; a cicchetto (short drink) costs € 2; a glass of wine € 3; cocktails are more In the middle of the facade of the Saint Mark VI E The A Teatro Comunale Niccolò Piccinni , Vin o’mirr (“Come to wine” in local dialect) is A (very complicated system) or go to Veloservice In Palazzo Simi you can see the history of Bari Pizzeria Dreher takes its name from a com- I L V

lento are some of the best) are known for their of the Venetians church there is a rose window L expensive: € 5-6. named after a great local composer, is the oldest the right place for romantic couples, vegetarians and

11 layer by layer: first, old Roman ruins; then a Byzan- petitor of our beloved Peroni, the Dreher beer. It’s I F . But please be careful: although Bari is trying R strong character and delicious taste. But if you 12 A DATING AGENCY SINCE THE XII with a winged lion, the symbol of . During R Tourist Info Point (www.viaggiareinpuglia.it) Bari stage, withE a Neoclassic facade, a horseshoe refined eaters. Some house specialties: deer salami, tine Church was built, and later during the Medieval the ideal stop if you want to try a full immersion to become a bike-friendly city there are very few A C

CENTURY C are in Bari the queen of the alcoholic drinks is U N the Middle Ages, both Venice and Bari wanted to structure, five box orders. The theatre is nowD closed organic legumesG soups, artisan local beer. (Mon-Sat A The Tourist Info Point is in Piazza Aldo Moro 33/a (in front of the Central Station main entrance) and at the Age a house was built. (Mon-Sat 9.30-13.30; free in the chaos of the city. The external tables are on D cycle lanes and still too many cars in the way! O E C L The di San Nicola has the body of the N the Peroni beer. In 1924, the Peroni company, take Saint Nicholas’ (he died in 343 A.D.). Bari A I I airportD (daily open 9.00-20); an additional Info Point will open in summer in Piazza del Ferrarese (daily open entrance) the sidewalk: move a few centimetres forward and for refurbishmentV until 2015: if you want now to take E20:00-2:00; O10-15 €) R A I I originating from Vigevano, North Italy, decided saint. He is celebrated with massive feasts twice D S V 10-13/17.00-00.00) people were first to take them. This was exactly S a look,T check it out the temporary site openings. R FIGHT THE CRIME you’ll eat sitting directly on the street! (19:00-00:00; C A O a year: on May 9th and on December 6th. In May O A M to establish its first brewery in South Italy here in N City public transportation system (www.amtab.it) half of his skeleton. But Venetians didn’t give up! O AFTER HOURS L Unfortunately Bari still has lots of orga- MODERN HISTORY Wed clo; € 5) ’ I 32

23 L

we celebrate the transfer (or “theft”?) of his relics N A

Bari: the beginning of an everlasting love story. During the first Crusade (1096-1099) they arrived L What if you desperately need a coffee break Bus Tickets can be bought at newspaper shops and tobacconists. € 1 ticket is valid 75 minutes; daily

G I nized crime. But the awareness of the problem If you want to learn something about the hi- E

So, there is nothing better than looking at the from () to Bari, made by an expedition I

FOCACCIA WALKINGU ticket costs € 2.20. Don’t forget to punch your ticket and be aware buses can be often later than the expected in Myra and took the second half. The authentici- at 4 a.m.? Go to Bar dello Studente: 24 hours open! story of Bari and Italy, stop at Museo Storico Civico and initiatives for legality and transparency have 18 S L D

sea sitting on a promenade bench and drinking of 62 local seamen the 9th of May 1087 (see ). In LET’S PLAY GREEK! schedule. Buses run from 5 am to 12 pm: unfortunately, Bari lacks a night bus service.

ty of the two different remains was proved only in 27 Walter, 27, startupperE - Walking (Sun clo)A greatly increased in the latest years. If you want (Civic Historic Museum). Guest stars: the original P ’ T

a frozen bottle of Peroni. After drinking, some December we commemorate his death. Inside the I P 1992 by the pathologist expert Luigi Martino. Serena, 28, biotechnologist B around the city, it is easier to slip on A Park&Ride Finding a parking place in Bari may be a nightmare. There are five Park & Ride areas (shown on T T to know more about it, you could begin from copy of the first book printed in the city (1535), a E M E A locals leave the empty bottle on the sidewalk: crypt at the entrance on the right corner there is A – Virginia, 27, eye-doctor - Tavlì is a tomato than on a banana peel. THE VINYL SHOP OF BARI the map ) where you can leave the car (daily ticket € 1). From the Park&Ride area, you can take the Associazione Kreattiva (www.associazionekre- uniform of the Garibaldi unification army and a N 33 N E P L

a red column. According to the tradition, if an old Z N please... don’t forget to throw your bottle in the E A SMALL CREATIVE FACTORY a small venue full of charm, whose This strange urban carpet is due to Centro Musica is one of the last bastions of CD shuttle bus to the center (€ 0,30). 19 I attiva.com) with its antimafia webradio project document signed by the patriot Mazzini, one of the I D

D A O bin! maid touches the column three times, within one name is inspired by a bizarre Greek Bike rental Amtab (local transportation company) manages a local bike rental system, Bariinbici. All over Flying Circus can be considered an artistic LOCAL TIP the continuous consumption of the and vinyl. Mr. Vito, who ownsO the place, is probably main activists for the unification of Italy! E driven by local children of secondary school. Also year she will meet her soul mate. Every December L game. We like to spend our time here drinking a T the city, there are more than 20 bike rental areas, but the registration procedure is quite long and compli- part of the old town. Black music dj sets, ukulele queen of the local street food: the Bari’s main professor in the science of jazz. (Mon-Sat check the local section of Libera (www.libera.it), (Tue 16:00-18:00; Wed-Fri 9:00-13:00; Sat 17.30- A NO NEED FOR 6th our local “Bridget Joneses” used to hurry to T gigs, table football contests, presentations of es- glass of red wine and enjoying the finger food. focaccia. It’s made of very few basic 8.30-13.30; 16.30-20.30) cated. To have your yearly seasonal card (€ 10), you need to present a copy of your ID and subscribe to a O a network of associations that supports all those 20.30; Sun 10-13; free entrance) In Bari, every two meters there is a bar and the so-called Column of the Miracles. Considered When it’s necessary, you can use the footstools to LOCAL TIP

says about multiculturalism: this is just a limited ingredients: yeast dough, olive oil, (a contract with Amtab. The contract is available at this link (only in Italian): http://www.amtab.it/images/sto-

V

a good reason to have a coffee break. We love who are interested in the fight against organized an item of miracles, the column can heal several I selection of the events that normally take place form a table, like Lego blocks! lot of) tomatoes, salt and oregano…A but there is no VENICE? NO, THIS IS BARI! ries/PDF_sito/AMTABB5.pdf. You can pick up the card here: Amtab S.p.A, Ufficio Abbonamenti, Via Fornari

PANZEROTTO AND APRICOTS 34

crime. 24 our small espresso; if it’s too strong for you, ask

diseases: for this reason the believers always tried

here. (Mon-Sat 19:00-3:00) (19:00-3:00; Wed clo) unique recipe or a best one! The historical bakery in On the facade of Palazzo Fizzarotti (1906) 12/14, phone 0805289587. The office is near the main station. We searched a lot but we couldn’t find the

to take some pieces as souvenirs. To avoid this, the Uè R the early 20th century Liberty style is combined with To the Bari-Palese airport “Karol Wojtyla” (www.aeroportidipuglia.it) reason why this lovely square is called Largo Albi- Bari is Panificio Fiore, just behind the Basilica of San E tr'mon

column was caged in 2007. Now all the women in C Nicola. A focaccia with a high edge, slightly toasted: Venetian-Gothic style and Norman-Swabian influen- Ferrovia Nord Barese train (14 minutes) The new train service joins the airport with Central Station. Trains A TOUCH OF BAROQUE 20 cocca (Apricot Square), but we know that pizza and THE MOST ROMANTIC CAFÉ R search for a husband can do is put their moving 28 ces. Inside there are also some beautiful mixed style V This church is called Santa Teresa dei Ma- this is the perfect pit stop for a tourD in the old city. Al- depart every half an hour (5-23). The ticket costs € 5 (only one way available). panzerotti at “Da Cosimo” are delicious. If you don’t O A I cards and help requests in the remaining holes. The Ciclatera is a Bari slang word for “espres- A V mosaics. SPEAK A LOCAL schi. The name means “Saint Teresa of the men” C ternatively, you can go to Panificio Santa Rita, near Tempesta Shuttle bus (30 minutes) Tempesta shuttle bus departs every half an hour (5-24) from/to Central want to wait for your turn, occasionally there are I like a so coffee machine”. This is the ideal place to end any D

(Every day open; 7-20.30) E Bari dialect is almost incomprehensible to the rest of country, thanks to loads of linguistics influen- (1671). Once upon a time there was also the “Saint the castle. A walk around Teatro Petruzzelli can be Station. The ticket costs € 4 (purchasable on board; only one way available).

TOURIST CLASSIC native Barivecchia ladies roasting meat and gnume-

romantic stroll through the streets of the old town. HISTORIC PUB

35 V Amtab bus (45 minutes) Amtab bus n.16 departs every 40-45 minutes (5-23) from/to Central Station. The

Teresa of the women”, now no longer in existence. boosted with a slice of focaccia at El Focacciaro. Me- C

ces and varieties. It was always considered very funny because of its sound and odd picaresque redde (not for free) near the restaurant. (Tue-Sun In the niche with sofas and pillows are always two G Since 1980, a large part of the Bari Iunder-

MOSAICS FLOOR A A ticket costs € 1. 13 They were places for devotion for Carmelitan friars dium high edge, good taste. If you’reI following the L U

expressions. Recently, thanks to people like the comedians Lino Banfi, Gianni Ciardo, Checco Zalone 19:00-00:00; € 5-10)

The floor mosaics and the columns are what lovers sipping coffee and eating a big slice of choco - ground scene has been taking place in the basement D and nuns. The “male” church is closed but take a seafront toward the public beach ofS Pane & Pomo- To the port (www.aplevante.org) and the football player Antonio Cassano, some Bari and Apulia absolute myths, it seems that everybo- A E remains now of the church of Santa Maria del late cake with whipped cream. (Mon-Sat 19.30-3:00) of Taverna Vecchia del Maltese. The place is named P Amtab bus n.20/ departs every 30-40 minutes from/to CentralR Station. The ticket costs € 1. From Bari port, walk around it: it is one of the few Baroques chur- doro, take a break at Panificio Violante. Here you dy in Italy loves our speaking. Below there is a short list of main expressions and sayings. P after the sailor-adventurer Corto Maltese, the comic O Buonconsiglio. The Latin inscription on the wall E ches in Bari. can try a different one, paper-thin and with the sau- ferries leave to Greece, Croatia, Montenegro and Albania.L TOUGH FOOD G Tr’mon! (quite vulgar but effective word meaning “stupid”) 25 character created by the Italian artist Hugo Pratt. A recalls the extreme lack of water that affected Bari ce of tomatoes… aaaah, so delicious! Near the train I Local private lines If the owner of Osteria delle Travi stares at O Ce nge n’am’á sscí, sciamanínne, ce non nge n’am’á sscí, non nge ne sime scénne (a tongue-twister 29 THE NEW BARI CLASSIC OF 2000’S in the past. (Daily open 21:00-02:00) station and University there are Magda (open during Ferrovie del Sud Est (www.fseonline.it) Trains and buses join Bari to the South part of Apulia. 21 ART IS LIFE AND LIFE IS ART you darkly and you behave “aggressively” towards V TOURIST CLASSI Exaggerated, alcoholic, smokey and maybe meaning “If we have to go, let’s go, if we don’t have to go, we don’t go”) A

Contemporary artists and gallerists live and lunch break) for a crispy focaccia with oregano, and N The railway station is in via Oberdan, near via Capruzzi (south of Central Station); buses depart from Largo C him then your dinner will turn into a cabaret show. MEDITERRANEAN BAR a little dangerous, Chiringuito is unmissable for its 36 Mo uagnúne stogghe à ttremile!! (literally “I’m at 3000!”, means “I’m euphoric!”) and La capë aggírë! UNDERGROUND BARI #1 N work side by side in the Galleria Doppelgaenger. Atena, where you should taste the epic fagottini. If Ciaia, 400m south of via Capruzzi.. 14 Try the patate riso e cozze and leave a small place for Once upon a time, Faros Cafè was a fisherman cocktails, the short girls in miniskirts and the spicy I (literally, “The head is spinning!”, means “I’m having a headache” or “I’m being driven crazy”): those The Castello Normanno Svevo (Norman you are around the Chiesa Russa, go to Panificio Di Ferrovie Nord Barese (www.ferrovienordbarese.it) Trains join Bari to the airport and to They make a creative confusion between the two the homemade sweets too. Good value for money! V stock. Now it is a lounge bar inspired by the atmo- smells. Alternatively, come here in the morning to Swabian Castle) is like a Chinese box game: there I expressions are very famous thanks also to the 1999 Bari cult movie “Lacapagira”. A dimensions and give life to various art exhibitions, (Tue-Sat 12:00-15:00/19:00-24:00; Sun eve-Mon clo; Gesú, here you can taste the focaccia of , sphere of our cousin country, Greece. But, unless you some cities located in the North. Railway station is on the left side of Piazza Moro, near the Central Station. try Peroni and taste some fresh raw seafood: at

Sande Necole jè amànde de le frastíre (“Saint Nicholas loves the foreigners”: Bari is a city open to are four medieval towers inside the walls of the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane (www.ferrovieappulolucane.it) The trains connect Bari with from photography to street art. (May-Sep Mon-Fri high and soft. So, enjoy your focaccia, and... don’t go there in the afternoon to have an espresso, you A full menu about € 25) morning time there is an open fish market too. R Renaissance Palace and everything is located in- M everybody!) 17:00-20:00; Oct-Apr Tue-Sat 17:00-20:00; daily throw the olive’s nocciolo (fruit stone) on theE ground! might not notice the creative interior design. (Mon- Apulia neigboring region, Basilicata. Pick them to reach the beautiful locations of Altamura (still in Apulia) E side the borders of the old fortified town! You can booking) andN Matera. Railway station is in Piazza Aldo Moro, near the Central Station. Sat 8:00-1.30; Sun clo)

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