BARIVECCHIA walking. The old heart of Bari - Start: Piazza del Ferrarese TIME BAR This walk picks you to Barivecchia (Old Bari), the ci 30 min. I ty’s historical heart. You probably won’t even be able PIA ZZA - LE CR COLONNA INFAME ISTOF to tell that this area has been seriously degrading 5 COL ORO OMBO over time. At night this labyrinth of narrow streets In the middle of this square there is Infame with clothes hanging from the windows, traditional o Colonna della Giustizia Colonna lumn or Column of Justice) with a cannonball (Infamous on Co IO shops and old women selling their homemade orec - L SANTA the top. This was previously where the public were L SCOLASTICA U chiette (ear-shaped pasta) becomes the center of the- T SIGHTSEEING punished. Now if we don’t pay our (usually) incre SANTA MARIA urban nightlife. If you’re able to recover from your A O Z TR .Z IE 7 dibly high taxes, the Equitalia agency gives us high DEL BUON P P N A - S night fun then enjoy this walk at early morning time: CONSIGLIO fines. During the Middle Ages, the overdue borro A 13 C EAT I T DRINK S with no people around you will breathe the smell of LA Food has always been a main element of life and culture in Italy and this is even more true in the case of CO A S A T LOCAL wers were instead exposed to public humiliation T V N V A I like a E A S S I - Z . C S . S the sea and the charm of the history. O N Apulia and Bari. “What did you have for lunch” is a classic everyday topic of conversation and often C U D F A S. O N O and were made to sit riding the lion, the guardian of Z T L N I A R IA DEL BUON E AR A N S M V . N M CONSIGLIO T O I S I people fight to have the best focaccia in town. Outsiders may define us as food obsessed. Well, we do like our C E E FOOD T PIAZZA DEL FERRARESE justice. In times of high tax pressure, we ask oursel A R R 1 N E A L M . E . S RCO obsession! Here’s a (short) list of some typical Bari food specialties. Let’s start from ves if anything has really changed… S Z R A - A ITO O E I IR Piazza del Ferrarese T P I I A S T A square takes its name from the Ferrarese: the I P E IN . The Z A . R IC Z A IL LA STREET FOOD V A M AS O N I B IC RISO PATATE E COZZE merchant Stefano Fabbri o Fabri who was a fa Now move back to Piazza del Ferrarese and turn P 2 N N 6 SA O ( Rice, potatoes and mussels ) mous businessman here. On the right you will see- right: take Via Venezia and you will walk on the GNUMEREDDE 24 T A A R T To transform the rice, potatoes A FOCACCERIA the old Fish market and in front of you there is the N I vecchia Muraglia A H If you arrive in Bari over sea in sum (old wall). Until the fascist sea- N S. S C and mussels in the typical RES sun clock on the facade of Palazzo Starita. There promenade was made, this street (see A S. T C mer, please don’t panic if you see a- A 17 tiella was once an entrance door to the city on the left, barese you have to cook them C ARCHITECTURE WALKING MODERN L GOING OUT big cloud of smoke rising from the I RO A IET SC O .D RE S V altogether in the oven, measure ) was directly next to O S T GO 18 all that remains now of the original location is the LAR 12 . the sea. On the bottom there is a line of milestones R O city: Bari is not burning. What you R P E N SAN MARCO O I ABAT C A V N E S them in the right proportions and S I L black stones there. The door was opened in 1612 to G . A DEI VENEZIANI E T E of the via Appia-Traiana (108-110 d.C.). LIA S A see is the smoke of the roast and S O G A T N M O Z N SHOP U R R A Z E put them in layers with some ex daily collective bbq of R O E ’ allow goods to be transported to the nearby Piaz R T T O . O E I T I N Z .V O O V N D I gnumeredde . S I S 16 T A - . They are little A rolls of mixed meat inside parts (liver, lung and za Mercantile, where the market once was. In the C V M pertise. Only our grandmothers . R T R V - A O know how to cook this dish. The first tests are usual N A I C S. FILIOL 19 kidney) held together by the gut of lambs. Whole T 6 FORTINO DI S.ANTONIO ABBATE R C I fenced area you can also see the remaining tracks S O S EDI NNELLI N T P L . I . N S. Z A D T ly a disaster: uncooked rice clashes with crushed O O A E U E R O - E I PARK & RIDE families love to meet on the seafront of the city L O When you get to the top, sit on a bench and S C C NI I N F R V D O of the old street. O E L END V V O C G ET R S AM T I R I E N A E A . O E C . R A N I V E O potato, and vice versa. The crucial point is that A N D P V D CATTEDRALE ’A L E I NE S A T O A C T O V enjoy the view from the RI T P O D I bringing their own chairs, tables and barbecue to R L N T U CO IT O RSO V T A V I T A P.Z A E S 14 ZA 21 I V S S T ’ DI SAN SABINO Z Fortino di S. Antonio Aba ’ once you learn it you can not describe the process O A D R E Z G LL’OD I R O EGITR N te I A IA L (14th-16th century). The saint is the guardian of L L 15 O PIAZZA MERCANTILE O 6 roast and eat 2 - A L O E U O E I C gnumeredde GEL R T N I S N FAST ROADS AN S N . F in a recipe: the only way to scientifically cook this altogether. R Z ETA A A A O G A Go straight left and you’re in pets: in his chapel every year on January 17th the ACR C M O C E I C R I G A C G V A O RA O E R I LARG F O N I N V E V 20 G 4 dish is to adjust the ingredients M Piazza Mercan E tile. O S D E N It was the business and political center of Bari trendiest pets are blessed: cows, goats, horses (to T S.SA A E V BINO O A - VIA G R F S. RE MANFREDI A MOLO S IOACC U S ANT’ ORECHIETTE E CIME DI R A H I S R N ad occhio I N I T NO .M A NC . ONIO MODERN ARCHITECTURE any help of scales). (without G D E M Z U R until the establishment of the Murat district (1813). U day there is an exhibition area). Keep on walking to RAT A R A I 5 A A Z Z VIA G V IA PIAZ 9 - U . M A E URAT I 24 22 25 P G WALKING RAPE 9 ILE A U 25 V NT I V A S RC Z admire the east façade of Saint Nicholas and his big E T . M G E . O N B V E I The translation of 11 M I PALAZZO DELLA DOGANA O V BARIVECCHIA A P 3 window with side columns supported by elephants. 23 28 2 cime di rape E LARGO E S A B S M 3 M I R A 31 L I does not exist: it is a typical L O Beyond the market was the council office S . A WALKING O I D A B 32 S ALBICOCCA V T V B . IA S N N S N A A ’A 27 FAVE E CICORIE N I A A 25 O PO V D V Apulia vegetable very similar D E and the L T I O O A R Palazzo della Dogana VI C A O D R S R T N L ETTA A E O RR I PO Z A OLA A TO . LI C C R ANGI . DELL (Broad beans and chi (The Palace of Duty G . S E I O S N S N H G to broccoli but with a bitter Z 8 Taxes, on the left of the square). 7 S A U MONASTERO DI SANTA R PIA E YR 9 - F ZZ L I A I T A AN S.