INSPIRED MAJESTIC MAGICAL Why Splendid Feather What Lucerne’s palatial hotels How the time-honoured metier of lends wings to imagination reveal about their former guests feathercraft lives on in Paris

EDITORIAL DEEPLY INSPIRED

bangle. Under a microscope, the inner world of the gemstone revealed elegant structures reminiscent of feathers.

This motif leant wings to our design- ers’ imagination. Together with the goldsmiths and gemstone setters of the Gübelin Jewellery atelier, they transformed this inspiration into unique pieces of jewellery. In addi- tion to the abovementioned bangle, the Splendid Feather line also fea- tures chandelier earrings, necklaces, rings and bangles set with sapphires and diamonds, which we present in this issue’s photo shooting.

The feather theme recurs in many different forms in this new edition of “Deeply Inspired”. Sophisticated wristwatches and feathers shine in perfect harmony. We introduce you to some of the best Parisian feather- craft artists. And we explain why a watch’s balance wheel and hair- spring deliver almost unbelievable peak performance every day. Dear Reader, The visual artist Miriam Laura “The ‘feather’ An impressive journey to Sri Lanka, Leonardi was likewise inspired by a motif leant wings the “island of gems”, and the deli- photograph of the inner world of a cate pink and orange tones of the padparadscha sapphire. For her col- to our designers’ rare padparadscha sapphires that laboration with Gübelin Jewellery at imagination.” are mined there, inspired us to create the artgenève art fair, she created a a new world of jewellery: Aurora. Its whole series of individual artworks name recalls the early morning at- that bring the inner structures of this mosphere that bathes each new day precious gemstone to the outside and in gentle light, while simultaneously play with the viewer’s perception. embodying harmony and energy. I would be very pleased if this edition Our Splendid Feather line expands of “Deeply Inspired” lends wings to Aurora by adding further impressive your imagination as well. pieces of jewellery, all of which take the fascinating inner world of a very special padparadscha sapphire as their starting point. This rare 5.60 carat cushion-shape gem was chosen The inner world of this rare padparadscha sapphire reveals fascinating shapes, to play the starring role as the Raphael Gübelin reminiscent of delicate dewdrops glistening on the petals of a lotus blossom in the morning sun. central jewel of an extraordinary President Discover more about the Rising Lotus ring and its inspiration at gubelin.com /aurora. 05 Gübelin – a Swiss, family-owned firm since 1854

Guebelin_Anzeige_Rising_Lotus_Gubelin_Magazin_215x285mm.indd 1 19.02.20 10:48 The Cinema Squad

Charlize Theron DEEPLY INSPIRED CONTENTS Brad Pitt Adam Driver

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12 26 50 WHEN THE SPIRIT FLIES POINTEDLY REGAL LIGHT AS A FEATHER The Splendid Feather line is The marquise it the most sensual Exquisite wristwatches which inspired by feathery structures inside shape that can be given to a gemstone. achieve big performance in the a padparadscha sapphire. smallest volume of space. 28 18 FEATHERY OPULENCE 54 MASTERPIECES Feathers are adornments – and so GREAT ART IN MINIATURE The Splendid Feather bangle and the much more. Discover for yourself The balance and its hairspring set Blushing Wing necklace are expres- in our photo shooting. a watch’s pace of. We explain how sions of superlative craftsmanship. they interact. 44 22 MASTER OF MATERIALS 56 THE ART OF THE CRAFTS Hublot’s exquisite timepieces CREATIVE EVOLUTION Experience how a masterpiece combine creativity, innovation and Discover how the Zenith Manufacture

from Gübelin Jewellery is created. technology on the highest level. conquers women’s hearts. Photos: Stephan Glathe (1), Hublot (1), Zenith (1)

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62 82 103 PLAY OF COLOURS OPPOSITES ATTRACT BEYOND BOUTIQUES Natural beauty and Visual artist Miriam L. Leonardi Learn why working for Gübelin inspiring technology celebrate and her artwork is so attractive. a delightful liaison. “Dial M for Slippers”. 72 88 THE STYLE OF MY LIFE METAMORPHOSIS OF See what Akris’s Albert Kriemler has THE FEATHER influenced and inspired. A time-honoured handicraft lives on in Paris. 74 MAJESTIC 94 Discover what Lucerne’s palatial MATTER OF TRUST TONDA Calendrier Annuel hotels tell about the city’s past Edigem buys, sells and appraises Manufactured entirely in Switzerland parmigiani.com and its visitors. jewels with a history. Photos: Attila Hartwig (1), Library of Congress/Wikimedia (1), Anne Combaz (1)

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PAR.20.20099_Inserat_Magazin_215x285_RZ.indd 1 13.02.20 16:01 with wings –and boundless inspiration. Rosy dawn endows the imagination

Photo: iStockphoto (1) INSIDE JEWELLERY INSPIRATION

I NSPI R E D IMAGINATION

The Splendid Feather line expands the recently launched Aurora world with additional fascinating pieces of jewellery inspired by the inner microcosm of an extraordinary padparadscha sapphire and the bird life of Sri Lanka.

A bird in Sri Lanka spreads its elegant rare 5.60-carat padparadscha sap- feathered species of birds are found plumage like a fan before taking flight phire revealed characteristic shapes here, and approximately 30 of these in the morning sunlight. Poetic imag- and structures dating from the epoch species live nowhere else in the world es like this one appear in the minds’ when the gem was formed. These except on this enchanted island. eyes of the designers at Gübelin Jew- fine patterns and lines resemble the The design of the Splendid ellery when they peer through a spe- veins in a bird’s plumes. Gemstone Feather jewellery – which includes cial microscope to view the inner experts accordingly refer to them as bracelets, necklaces, rings and ear- world of a gem. The designers’ crea- “feathers”. These gemmy feathers rings – clearly alludes to this. Each tions are inspired by the structures can also be interpreted as a symbol lavish piece has curved, dia- they discover inside the precious of the stone’s country of origin be- mond-studded feather branches, gems. These tiny but characteristic cause Sri Lanka, the legendary “Is- which visually unite in some crea- features provide clues about the ori- land of Gemstones” in the Indian tions to form wings accentuated by gin and genesis of the gemstones. Ocean, is not only a paradise for coloured sapphires in diverse shapes The photomicrograph of a In the case of the new Splendid gemmologists, but also for ornithol- and cuts. The Splendid Feather line padparadscha sapphire reveals fascinating Feather line, elegant forms inside a ogists. Hundreds of magnificently expands on the Aurora world of jew- structures reminiscent of feathers.

12 INSPIRATION INSIDE JEWELLERY

The impressive bird life of Sri Lanka inspired the Splendid Feather line.

ellery, which was newly introduced lutionary history. Most scientists ancestors of birds, and some of those last year with the masterpiece Rising agree nowadays that feathers origi- ancient reptiles had already devel- Lotus. The name Aurora recalls the nally served two other purposes: as oped coats of colourful plumage to gentle light of morning and sunrise, an insulating layer and to make a attract mates. This can still be seen as well as the unique orange-pink col- favourable impression, preferably in today’s bird world, e.g. in the our of the padparadscha sapphire. on a creature of the same species but handsome plumage of a peacock or Sapphires occur in every colour the opposite sex. Dinosaurs are the rooster. Interestingly, it always seems of the rainbow, but connoisseurs ex- clusively reserve a separate name – padparadscha – for this highly desir- able variety with delicate orange-pink GEMSTONE ACQUISITION: or pink-orange hues. The character- STRICTEST QUALITY CRITERIA istic colouration recalls a blossom of the lotus, a plant which is typical of Before Gübelin’s designers can peer into a gemstone, the experienced gemstone Sri Lanka. The name “padmaraga”, buyers of Gübelin Jewellery have scrutinised the rarest coloured gemstones around Inspired by the feathery structures which means “lotus-coloured” in the globe to find the rarest coloured gemstones available on the worldwide market. inside the gem, the designers of Singhalese, likewise alludes to this Buying coloured gems such as padparadscha sapphires in the appropriate quantity Gübelin Jewellery developed the resemblance. and quality is a lengthy process that requires experience, patience and the best characteristic wing-like shapes of Feathers have inspired people’s contacts. With Aurora, Gübelin Jewellery presents a world of jewellery inspired by the the pieces of jewellery. imaginations for centuries. Many rarest variety of sapphire. Aurora also confronts professional gem buyers with a big cultures interpret feathers as sym- challenge: i.e. to purchase not just one or two stones, but numerous exquisite padpa- bols of beauty, freedom and spirit- radschas. Limited resources are a major reason why Gübelin Jewellery is probably the uality. But their grace, delicacy and only jewellery brand to dedicate an entire collection to this rare gemstone. The pad- functional perfection, as well as their paradschas that Gübelin Jewellery uses come from Sri Lanka and Madagascar. On often fascinating colours and pat- the basis of its strict criteria, the Gübelin Gem Lab could classify only about half of terns, harbour an enigma: Why do the approximately 300 pink-orange and orange-pink sapphires that came to Lucerne feathers exist at all? Birds use feath- for the Aurora jewellery world as genuine padparadschas. Ultimately, only ten percent ers to fly, but flight was only the of the stones fulfilled the high standards of quality upheld by Gübelin Jewellery and

Foto: iStockphoto (1) most recent step in the feather’s evo- were selected to become part of the Splendid Feather line.

15 INSIDE JEWELLERY INSPIRATION

We craft watches not to meet expectations, but to surpass them.

SeaQ Panorama Date Dive into the Original

A detail of the finished design of the Splendid Feather bracelet: the central padparadscha sapphire bathes in a “river” of pastel-coloured sapphires, which is enclosed by a pair of diamond-studded wings.

Feathers have inspired people’s imaginations The jewellery in the Splendid for centuries. In many cultures, feathers are Feather line rivals or even exceeds the beauty of birds’ feathers. These regarded as symbols of beauty, freedom and lavish pieces stage femininity in a spirituality. very special and subtle way thanks to the delicately soft hue of rare pad- paradscha sapphires. Each creation highlights these pastel-coloured gems with a flowing arrangement of to be the males that stand out with attraction of feathers. Yves Saint individual stones that combine to the help of their gaudy plumage. Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, John Galli- create an irresistibly organic shape. For centuries, humans too have ano, Thierry Mugler and Alexander Some pieces present marquise sap- adorned themselves with feathers. McQueen all loved to dress women phires, which is regarded as the most Feathers create accents and symbol- in feathers or to decorate them with sensual form a gemstone can take (see ise preciousness or status on hats, plumes. Natural, enigmatic, opulent, also p. 26). These marquises also of- shoes and uniforms, as collars or ac- exhilarating, graphically austere, fer another allusion to the world of cessories, or even as complete dress- marvellously airy and light: feathers birds and feathers because the curved es. Fashion designers of the 20th cen- can accentuate many different facets sides of a marquise gem are known as tury took advantage of the special of femininity. “wings”.

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U N I Q U E MASTERPIECES

The elegance and complexity of the Splendid Feather bangle and the Blushing Wing necklace, each of which is a one-of-a-kind piece, impressively express the high artistry of Gübelin Jewellery’s designers and goldsmiths.

BANGLE SPLENDID FEATHER

Two diamond-studded wings border a padparadscha sapphire charming here are the marquises, with which Gübelin Jewellery’s amidst a river of pastel-coloured sapphires. The effect of the designers allude to the company’s award-winning designs of Splendid Feather bangle is simultaneously organic, fluent, light the 1960s and ’70s. The red gold wings are studded with brilliant- and impressive. Its centrepiece is the 5.60-carat cushion-shape and baguette-cut diamonds that were specially cut for the padparadscha sapphire that inspired the entire Splendid Feather bangle’s tapered setting. Together, the bevy of diamonds creates line. This rare gem is accompanied by a total of 59 pastel-colour- a refined play of light. ed sapphires in various shapes and cuts. Particularly striking and

18 19 INSIDE JEWELLERY UNIQUE

“As a member of the sixth generation of our family business, I am very proud of the way we combine beauty, knowledge and craftsmanship.”

Raphael Gübelin

NECKLACE BLUSHING WING

The Blushing Wing necklace was unveiled for the first time at art- shades, each of which is carefully matched to harmonise with the genève in 2020. Like the Splendid Feather bangle, it play of colours of the padparadscha. The warm hue of the red features characteristic organically curved wing elements that gold alloy further accentuates the beauty of the sapphires. Not- resemble delicate feathers and are inspired by the padparadscha withstanding its lightness and its flowing forms, this necklace has sapphire. The central gemstone here is a 12.10-carat cushion-shape an unobtrusive presence. The multifaceted mix of cuts, colours and padparadscha sapphire from Sri Lanka. No fewer than 717 pas- shapes underscores the dynamism of the design, while simultane- tel-coloured sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds with a total ously alluding to the rich jewellery history of the House of Gübelin. weight of 33.23 carats were individually and meticulously hand-set A ruby, which is the trademark of all Gübelin Jewellery pieces, is in this necklace, which includes 120 sapphires in various pastel also prominently placed.

20 21 ATELIER INSIDE JEWELLERY

THE ART OF CRAFTSMANSHIP

The complexity of a masterpiece like the Splendid Feather bangle, and the artisanal skills required to create it, almost defy description. We present important aspects as examples.

CONNECTED BY GOLD THE UTMOST COMPLEXITY

In harmony with this bangle’s overall design, its principal gem Meticulous planning is indispensable to create a jewel as – a unique padparadscha sapphire – is embedded in a elaborate as the Splendid Feather bangle. It consists of “river” of 59 pastel-coloured sapphires in diverse cuts and approximately 100 individual components, each of which shapes. These coloured gems must first be selected in the must be individually fabricated and afterwards connected to appropriate sizes and colours and afterwards harmoniously its neighbours. Goldsmiths and gemstone setters literally combined with one another to create the desired “river”. work hand in hand because the various stages in the work Once the arrangement of stones has been determined, each process are often interdependent. As the accompanying gem’s setting must be individually handcrafted. The settings photo illustrates, the curved diamond-studded “veins” and are then joined together to form the desired organic pattern. the “quill” are individually fabricated and then draped over The bangle must also take into account the girth and con- brass for assembly. This is challenging because some of tours of its wearer’s wrist. The goldsmith uses the so-called them are set with diamonds, each of which must be cut to “plaster” technique for this purpose: he solders the settings fit. This task is followed by mounting the settings for the onto a plaster mould which is curved to conform to the pastel-coloured sapphires and the principal gem. A clasp is anatomy of the wearer’s forearm. also essential for a bangle: it too has been painstakingly crafted and is ready for mounting.

22 23 ATELIER INSIDE JEWELLERY

Setting the central gem is always a very special task, even for the highly experienced gemstone setters for whom this work is reserved. They invariably work with the utmost care, concen- tration and respect for each precious stone.

PERFECTLY POISED

The moment of truth arrives when the bangle is assembled from its numerous components. The coloured gemstones are inserted into their settings to test the intended “river” once again. Do the colours and shapes of the stones harmonise with one another as planned? Do they match the central gem? Is each precious stone in its proper position? Are the settings in their correct places? And do the heights of the individual and differently shaped gemstones fit together to create a harmonious overall impression in which no gem is too high or too low? Each coloured stone has its own individ- ual shape and characteristics, which must be borne in mind and used to best advantage. Prong settings hold each stone WORTHY OF ITS RUBY securely in place. The setter uses a burin to press each prong over the gemstone. The individual prongs are then shortened, Jewellery from Gübelin Jewellery is designed and manufac- tapped and carefully rounded at their upper ends. Finally, the tured only by masters of their craft, who take all the time padparadscha sapphire is inserted into its tailor-made prong they need to do their work properly and without compro- setting. For this purpose, the nearly finished bangle is lined mise. Furthermore, each and every piece of jewellery is with soft putty. This is always a very special moment for the subjected to a strict final quality control. The final scrutiny of highly experienced gemstone setters who perform this de- the bangle is undertaken with the aid of a microscope. Only manding task. They work with the utmost care, concentration jewellery that meets the high standards of the House of and respect for the precious stone, whose feathery inner Gübelin Jewellery ultimately receives its characteristic ruby. structures inspired the jewel’s design. The setter relies on sen- The “king of gemstones” is simultaneously an unmistakable sitivity and experience to place the gem in precisely the right sign of the noble provenance and an expression of the position and affix it there. He must proceed very painstaking- “Deeply Inspired” philosophy, which uniquely combines inner ly to preserve all the splendour of the nearly finished piece. beauty, profound expertise and the utmost craftsmanship.

24 25 KNOWLEDGE INSIDE JEWELLERY

The following parts POINTEDLY REGAL can be distinguished in a marquise gemstone: The marquise shape ranks among the finest and most sensual shapes that can be given to a gemstone. Belly: the sides are most strongly curved and the top is broadest.

Points: the two curved sides of the gemstone Belly meet at its two points.

Wing Wing: the curved area from the belly to the point.

Point Keel line Keel line: where the pavilion facets meet along the underside of the gemstone. Girdle

Girdle: the intersection of the crown (upper part of the stone) and pavilion (lower part) which defines the perimeter. CUTS & SHAPES MARQUISE

According to legend, France’s King said to have commissioned his jeweller elegance and sensuality, the marquise this glamorous design.Needless to say, cutter or setter can quickly mar a mar- aginary horizontal line drawn across Louis XV (1710-1774) commissioned to cut a diamond in this two-pointed was the preferred form for engagement the shape and cut of the marquise have quise stone. its transverse axis. The facets espe- his court jeweller to cut a diamond in form. Another common name for this rings and bridal jewellery in the 1960s been further optimised over the course Furthermore, the gem must be cially should have the same shape and the shape of the mouth of Jeanne-An- shape is navette, which explicitly refers and ’70s. Connoisseurs appreciate of the centuries. Although the outer cut so that it is neither too thick nor size and be located at the same places toinette Poisson (1721-1764). Better to its ship-like form. Navette is the the fact that this cut seems to length- contours of the historic gems were cut too thin. Suboptimal height can cause along the wings. Furthermore, all of known as Madame de Pompadour, she French word for “boat”. en its wearer’s finger, especially when in the 18th century, their faceting, as we non-reflective dark spots to appear in the gem’s wings should have an iden- was the king’s mistress from 1745 to the marquise is worn as a solitaire. know and love it today, was probably its centre. Experts call this the “bowtie tical curvature. Flat, bulging or uneven 1751. The jeweller gave the gemstone THE SHAPE FOR BEAUTY, Its elongated shape also makes gems added at a much later date. In terms effect” because it resembles a bowtie. wings detract from its elegance. Finally, an oval shape with two pointed ends, FEMININITY AND ELEGANCE appear larger than their stone weight of cut, even a contemporary navette The correct ratio of length to width is each end should taper to a sharp point which are said to have reminded the Gems have been cut in the marquise would suggest. A marquise gem is or marquise usually corresponds to the likewise very important for a marquise rather than a rounded one. king of the corners of her mouth. It shape since the middle of the 18th cen- usually affixed only at its pointed ends, classic brilliant cut with 57 facets (see gem. The ideal ratio is 2:1, but variants is said that this special shape was then tury. The marquise surpasses all other so plenty of light can penetrate the illustration above). such as 1.75:1 (with a rounder appear- named in her honour: marquise. cuts in its expression of femininity, stone to ignite its incomparable fire. The marquise shape poses a great ance) and 2.25:1 (with a more elongat- A second legend offers another beauty and elegance. This shape was After its glory days in the 1960s challenge for the cutter and the gem- ed look) are common. GÜBELIN ACADEMY explanation, albeit a somewhat less also very popular in the early years of and ’70s, the marquise lost some of stone setter, both of whom must be Symmetry is also a crucial feature The Gübelin Academy provides sensual one. Madame de Pompadour the 20th century, when it was favoured its popularity in favour of round or endowed with experience and skill ac- in the overall impression made by a connoisseurs and experts with was fond of the bicorne fashion, i.e. at the court of Britain’s King Edward square-cut gems. But now the marquise quired over many years of professional marquise. Even the tiniest irregularities in-depth knowledge of gemstones the two-pointed hat, with a shape VII, as well as among many of his is again enjoying heightened demand. practice. The often narrow rondiste detract from the harmony and grace. and gemmology. Its courses are reminiscent of a boat’s hull, which re- wealthy contemporaries, because the For example, Gübelin Jewellery also (girdle) and the two pointed ends are The gem should appear identical to the taught in Hong Kong, Shanghai, placed the previously popular tricorne boat-like shape was perfectly suited to uses marquise-cut sapphires in its new extremely difficult to cut and set. A left and right of its longitudinal “keel” Beijing, Geneva and Lucerne.. (three-pointed hat). Her royal lover is their hobby of yachting. Thanks to its Splendid Feather line, thus reviving momentary lapse of attention by the line, as well as on either side of an im- www.gubelinacademy.com

26 27 IN STYLE INSIDE JEWELLERY

Feathers are true miracles of nature. Simultaneously lightweight, fine and beautiful, they symbolise exhilaration and inspiration. Feathers are adornments – and so much more.

T H E MAGNIFICENCE O F FEATHERS

PHOTOGRAPHER STEPHAN GLATHE HAIR & MAKEUP SIGI KUMPFMÜLLER MODEL MYRTILLE REVEMONT

Left: Gübelin Jewellery, ear studs in red gold, with padparadscha sapphires from Madagascar (1.09 ct and 1.08 ct); Blushing Wing necklace in red gold with a padparadscha sapphire from Sri Lanka (12.10 ct), pastel-coloured sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds.

29 IN STYLE INSIDE JEWELLERY

Left: Gübelin Jewellery, Splendid Feather drop earrings in red gold, with padparadscha sapphires from Madagascar (1.09 ct and 1.08 ct), pastel-coloured sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds; Splendid Feather necklace in red gold with a padparadscha sapphire from Madagascar (2.23 ct), pastel-coloured sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds; Splendid Feather bracelet in red gold with pink sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds.

Right: Gübelin Jewellery, Splendid Feather ring in red gold with a padparadscha sapphire from Madagascar (2.88 ct), pastel-coloured sap- phires and brilliant-cut diamonds; ring in red gold with a brilliant-cut diamond (0.72 ct); eternity ring in red gold with brilliant-cut diamonds

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Gübelin Jewellery, ear studs in red gold, with padparadscha sapphires from Madagascar (1.09 and 1.08 ct) and pastel-coloured sapphires; Splendid Feather bangle in red gold with a padparadscha sapphire from Sri Lanka (5.60 ct), pastel-coloured sap- phires and brilliant-cut diamonds.

32 INSIDE JEWELLERY IN STYLE

Left: Gübelin Jewellery, ear studs in red gold, each with a brilliant-cut diamond (total weight 0.90 ct); Splendid Feather ring in white gold with blue sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds; Splendid Feather ring in red gold with pink sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds; Splendid Feather ring in red gold with a padparadscha sapphire from Madagascar (1.62 ct), pastel-coloured sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds.

Right: Gübelin Jewellery, Splendid Feather drop earrings in white gold with green sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds; Splendid Feather necklace in white gold with green and blue sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds; Splendid Feather ring in white gold with green and blue sapphires as well as brilliant-cut diamonds.

34 IN STYLE INSIDE JEWELLERY

Left and right: Gübelin Jewellery, Rising Lotus ring in red gold with a padparadscha sapphire from Sri Lanka (14.25 ct), pastel-coloured sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds; ear studs in red gold, with padparadscha sapphires from Madagascar (1.09 ct and 1.08 ct).

37 IN STYLE INSIDE JEWELLERY

Gübelin Jewellery, Splendid Feather drop earrings in red gold with pink sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds; Splendid Feather necklace in red gold with a padparadscha sapphire from Madagascar (2.23 ct), pastel-coloured sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds. INSIDE JEWELLERY IN STYLE

Left: Gübelin Jewellery, Splendid Feather drop earrings in white gold with blue sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds; Splendid Feather necklace in white gold with blue sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds; Splendid Feather rings in white gold with green and blue sap- phires as well as brilliant-cut diamonds; Splendid Feather bracelet in white gold with blue sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds.

Right: Gübelin Jewellery, Splendid Feather drop earrings in red gold, with padparadscha sapphires from Madagascar (1.09 ct and 1.00 ct), pastel-coloured sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds; Splendid Feather necklace in red gold with a padparadscha sapphire from Sri Lanka (2.80 ct), pastel-coloured sapphires as well as brilliant-cut diamonds.

40 Switzerland - Guebelin Client Magazine - 430x300 - EX0748 - 18.02.2020.indd 1 18.02.2020 12:18:01 IN DEPTH INSIDE WATCHES

M A S T E R O F MATERIALS

The finest avant-garde styling and first-class manufacturing quality: Hublot’s exquisite timepieces combine creativity, innovation and technology at the highest level. Big Bang Unico A look behind the scenes of the luxury watch brand that sets standards with revolutionary

Magic Gold. Photos: Hublot; Sabine Text: Zwettler movement concepts and case designs.

45 INSIDE WATCHES IN DEPTH

Lighter in weight, more resistant, skills were initially based on their the world of high-end timekeeping. more durable and more beautiful: knowledge of materials and the as- Hublot stands as a textbook exam- Hublot’s progress is fuelled by a sociated artisanal methods. It was ple of the courage to break entirely high-octane mix of innovative mate- only later that clock- and watch- new ground, to expand the limits of Big Bang Unico rials, coatings, alloys and compos- making developed as professions in the possible with creativity and im- Sapphire (below) ites. From the automotive industry their own right. Over the centuries, agination, and thus to carry forward with a case made of to information technology and med- these artisans cultivated the skills re- the classic values of a centuries-old sapphire crystal. icine, materials research and devel- quired to fabricate important com- tradition into the present day. opment form the basis for innova- ponents and highly complex parts This balancing act has succeed- tion in nearly all key areas. This also with optimised mechanical proper- ed with seeming effortlessness ever applies to the wonderful world of ties in order to improve precision, since the company was founded in mechanical timekeeping: after all, which is the supreme guiding princi- 1980, when Hublot daringly com- the first clockmakers were lock- ple of the profession. Even today, bined a precious gold case with a smiths and blacksmiths, i.e. classic research into new materials is a chal- sporty rubber wristband. The com- metal craftsmen. Their fundamental lenge to which a highly exclusive cir- bination marked a bravura pre- cle of prestigious manufactures dedi- miere for Hublot in the world of cate themselves. luxury watches, which the brand One company that has been a would soon revolutionise. The jux- true pioneer in this field is Hublot. taposition of two dissimilar and ap- Scratch-resistant The evolution of this relatively parently incompatible materials in a 18-karat Magic Gold is fabricated young brand into a luxury watch high-end timepiece with an expres- in the company’s manufacture that ranks at the top of sive and profoundly aesthetic ap- own foundry. the Swiss avant-garde is unique in peal inaugurated and popularised a

The processing of sapphire (below) is a regal discipline in the world of watchmaking.

Texalium (above) is a fusion of carbon and fibreglass. Photos: Hublot

47 INSIDE WATCHES IN DEPTH

“The greatest strength is the agination prompted him to design capacity for innovation – a flair countless tiny reflective surfaces that create a unique play of light and for overcoming boundaries.” shadow on the surfaces of this arti- sanal timekeeping treasure. Jean-Claude Biver Hublot not only sets standards President of Hublot in metallurgy and research and de- velopment, but has also acquired Classic Fusion impressive expertise in the field of Gold Crystal (left) manufacturing. Under the aegis of with rare gold Jean-Claude Biver, who confidently crystals on its dial. new mix of styles and marked the precious metals by creating new al- steered Hublot into the future from beginning of an unparalleled suc- loys to groundbreaking innovations 2004 onwards, the company has en- cess story that continues to astonish in the field of composite materials. joyed great success in the develop- even the most experienced connois- The company’s own metallurgy and ment and manufacturing of its own seurs today. R&D departments create innova- movements. Hublot’s experts have Hublot’s meteoric rise to the sta- tions that reach as far as the limits of mastered the entire repertoire of tus of a luxury manufacture in the the imagination. These even include complications in the elite world of best sense of the word is distin- textiles: from denim and chino twill haute horlogerie: from minute re- guished by numerous innovations to silk and linen, Hublot repeatedly peaters and tourbillons, through ex- for watch cases and wristbands. To surprises, amazes and inspires its tra-slim timepieces, to complex name only a few, the spectrum rang- discriminating clientele. This is par- chronographs powered by the “Uni- es from ultra-strong high-tech ce- ticularly true of the artistic Métiers co” manufacture calibre. Equipped ramics in a wide variety of colours, d’Art models, in which each dial be- with sophisticated column-wheel through feather-light yet highly re- comes a projection screen for exqui- control and a rare flyback function, sistant carbon fibres and particularly site craftsmanship. The Big Bang the “Unico” chronograph move- hard and corrosion-resistant tanta- Sugar Skull wristwatches are an im- ment embodies the state of the art. lum, to extremely scratch-resistant pressive example: tiny embroideries Much to the delight of connoisseurs and wholly transparent sapphire, a embellish their dials and wristbands. of fine watchmaking, the complex material which is regarded as ex- The Classic Fusion Gold Crystal is interactions among its more than The addition of ceramic tremely demanding to manufacture. another outstanding example: deli- 300 components, are revealed makes Magic Gold (above) In addition, there are the two 18 cate gold crystals (the rarest form of through the art of skeletonising, resistant to scratches. karat gold alloys “Magic Gold” and the yellow precious metal) are ap- which Hublot’s artisans have like- “King Gold”, which were developed plied to the dial with tremendous wise mastered. With its unmistaka- in-house and are fabricated on a spe- artisanal expertise. This is followed ble sense of originality, this manu- cially equipped production line at by a time-consuming process, con- facture also offers superb jewellery the manufacture in Nyon. “Magic ducted under vacuum conditions, watches that enchant connoisseurs Gold” is exceptionally resistant to which seals the gold crystals beneath who appreciate the fine art of tradi- scratches, while “King Gold” is dis- a thin layer of lacquer. tional jewellery making. tinguished by its intensive reddish The brand’s commitment to the The fact that Hublot’s world is colour, which results from an in- world of beauty is also demonstrat- as multifaceted as the range of mate- Big Bang Sugar creased copper content. Platinum is ed by partnerships with contempo- rials, compositions and complica- Skull with organza added to the alloy to prevent oxida- rary artists such as Richard Orlinski. tions which this brand offers is also embroidery tion, thus preserving its expressive Hublot’s collaboration with this demonstrated by the company’s on its dial. hue unchanged for many years. French sculptor, who is famous for far-reaching involvement in sports Hublot’s unique expertise in ma- his spectacular Pop Art under the and its collaboration with legendary terials – which it now aptly calls sign of “Born Wild”, culminates names, e.g. Ferrari and the Juventus “The Art of Fusion” and which it among other results in the Classic Turin and Paris Saint-Germain foot- celebrates with unflagging dedica- Fusion, an exquisite timepiece with a ball clubs; football god Pelé and leg- tion – ranges from the aesthetic and dial and case that resemble a minia- endary sprinter Usain Bolt are offi-

Photos: Hublot technical enhancement of traditional ture sculpture. Orlinski’s fertile im- cial brand ambassadors.

48 49 EXCELLENCE INSIDE WATCHES

The history of time measurement is characterised by the striving for miniaturisation. Four exquisite models provide the proof.

L I G H T

AS A FEATHER

The slimmest self-winding watch ever: Bulgari Octo BULGARI OCTO FINISSIMO PIAGET ALTIPLANO Finissimo Chronograph GMT. CHRONOGRAPH GMT ULTIMATE AUTOMATIC SLIM, SLIMMER, FINISSIMO SIMPLICITY IN PERFECTION

With a newly won fifth world record, the Octo Finissimo The Altiplano collection expresses Piaget’s conception of a From the mighty tower clocks of the Middle Ages to the The handsome results make all the effort worthwhile: ul- Chronograph GMT opens a new chapter in the ongoing luxury watch more eloquently than any other line. Created impressive pendulum clocks of the 16th and 17th centuries tra-thin movements are ideally suited to keep time inside success story of the Haute Horlogerie collection. This in 1957 as a refined and sleekly simple vessel for the man- and the high-precision pocket watches of the 18th and 19th particularly elegant and lightweight timepieces that cling titanium wristwatch is the slimmest self-winding timepiece ufacture’s ultra-slim movements, the profoundly expressive centuries, watchmakers strove, and continue to strive, to comfortably to their wearers’ wrists. Speaking of comfort: ever made. And that’s not all: although Calibre BVL 318 is Altiplano collection is distinguished by emphatic minimalism coax precious time into progressively more compact forms. one material with a very high degree of wearing comfort is a mere 3.3 millimetres tall, it nonetheless boasts an inte- and off-centre subdials. With a low height of just 4.30 mil- This endeavour culminated a century ago in the wrist- titanium. Despite its low weight, this high-tech metal of the grated chronograph with column-wheel control, integrated limetres, this white gold wristwatch sets standards in the watch, which made it possible to experience time by glanc- modern age is extremely durable and highly resistant. Tita- coupling, and a GMT function to show the time in a second discipline of ultra-slim timepieces. The back of the case ing at one’s wrist. To this day, the miniaturisation of mech- nium is 42 percent lighter in weight than an equal volume time zone. Despite its small dimensions, the peripheral rotor doubles as a base plate for the 219 components of manu- anisms remains one of the most demanding disciplines in of stainless steel. Not only is titanium at least as strong as is powerful enough to provide a power reserve of facture Calibre 910P, which includes a peripheral rotor the world of haute horlogerie. Miniaturisation demands steel, it is also nonmagnetic, antiallergenic and resistant to 55 hours. The iconic Octo case is likewise exceptionally made of 22 karat gold. A welcome and aesthetic side- exceptional expertise and skill to make the dozens of com- both saltwater and heat. Thanks to these advantageous slim: it is only 6.9 millimetres tall. The case, which is the effect of this sophisticated technique is that the bridges ponents of the precision-mechanical microcosm as slim and properties, it is not surprising to find that titanium is used brainchild of none other than the gifted designer Gérald and other components are fully visible in all their beauty. compact as possible. This artistry gains additional fascina- in engine construction, the aerospace industry and also in Genta, is famous for its innumerable facets and is made of tion when it results in a skeletonised calibre, i.e. one that haute horlogerie, where titanium combines with classical sandblasted titanium, as is the dial. The dial, case, bracelet

has been meticulously freed of all superfluous elements. horological complications to create an exciting contrast. Photos: Bulgari (2), Piaget (1); Sabine Text: Zwettler and clasp are all produced in-house by the manufacture.

50 51 INSIDE WATCHES EXCELLENCE

ZENITH DEFY CLASSIC HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION 10.08am on Fifth Avenue. N 40° 43’ 53.1’’ W 73° 59’ 49.1’’. INNOVATIVE MECHANICS IN AEROFUSION MOONPHASE TITANIUM Starting at CHF 21’000. THE MOST BEAUTIFUL LIGHT SWISS AVANT-GARDE AT ITS BEST

Zenith’s still-young Defy Classic line, which celebrated its The daring combination of high-tech materials and tradi- spectacular debut with the launch of the Defy El Primero tional horological craftsmanship is the declared hallmark 21 hundredths-of-a-second chronograph in 2017, embodies of Switzerland’s Hublot Manufacture, which creates exqui- the extraordinary expertise of this Swiss manufacture. Entry site timepieces that combine the best of both worlds. The into this elite line is facilitated by the new Defy Classic, Aerofusion Moonphase impresses connoisseurs with its which comes with 41-millimetre-diameter titanium case that technical and aesthetic realisation of a full calendar. Open remains watertight to a depth of 100 metres. Self-winding architecture and artistic skeletonising reveal the disc mech- Calibre Elite 670 SK, which amasses a 50-hour power re- anisms that underlie date and day-of-the-week indicators. serve, ticks inside the case. For maximum precision, the Crafted with loving attention to detail, the moon-phase skeletonized movement is equipped with an anchor and display at the “6” also includes a classic hand-type date escape-wheel made of innovative silicon. Fascinating views indicator. This quartet of displays is orchestrated by of the mechanical interplay are provided by the skele- self-winding Calibre HUB1131, which sets the pace inside the tonized dial, which is designed as a five-pointed star in 45-millimetre-diameter case of the Aerofusion Moonphase. analogy to the brand’s logo. The visible date mechanism

around the dial’s periphery is particularly attractive. Hublot Zenith, Photos:

52 KNOWLEDGE INSIDE WATCHES

G R E AT A RT IN MINIATURE BALANCE-WHEEL Ri AND HAIRSPRING H Ra Small but indispensable: as the oscillating heart of a mechanical watch, the hairspring is essential for the timepiece’s accuracy. Slimmer than a human hair, this slender spring is a The way in which a watch’s escape- ment works is based on the principle tiny powerhouse that delivers reliable performance day after day. of isochronism, which was discovered by the trailblazing scientist Galileo Galilei, who found that a freely swing- ing pendulum always requires the same time for one swing, regardless of its amplitude. In the 17th century, the The balance-wheel Dutch astronomer, mathematician sets the pace: the Outer end duration of each of of the and physicist Christiaan Huygens hairspring translated this principle to an oscillat- oscillation determines Collet watch’s timekeeping. ing system consisting of a bal- ß° ance-wheel and a spiral spring. The The hairspring, which balance-wheel is a hoop with spokes; sets the balance in its hub is connected to a hairspring, motion, alternately 1 2 3 n 0 which is also affixed at its outer end. tightens and slackens. When the balance-wheel is set in Inner end of motion, it winds the hairspring to the hairspring maximum tension and is then pro- pelled back in the opposite direction ri by the elastic torque in the coiled ra spring. This motion continues until the wheel reaches its point of reversal, where it changes direction.

THE INTERIOR OF THE WATCH HAIRSPRING

For some connoisseurs, the fascina- a timepiece’s exterior elegance reflects determining the precision of the After slightly more than five years’ in-house production requires up to tion of fine watchmaking lies in the the beauty of its underlying mecha- mechanical watch. Here, too, the time, this adds up to one complete 20 steps to transform a metal wire precisely calculated proportions that nisms. Dozens of tiny components, numbers defy the imagination: with journey around the Earth. Altering the measuring a mere 0.1 millimetres in endow timepieces with their har- some scarcely visible to the naked eye, a thickness between one and three thickness of the metal strip by a mere diameter into a 25-micron fine spiral. monious aura. From numerals and unite in perfect harmony to create the one-hundredths of a millimetre, the 0.001 millimetres can cause the move- The majority of these meticulous steps hour-markers, through hands and in- microcosm of the movement. Each hairspring is thinner than an insect’s ment’s rate to deviate by as much as 30 are performed manually, thus making dicators, to the case, bezel, wristband part occupies its assigned place and wing and weighs only 2.5 milligrams. minutes per day. This is why the man- the fabrication of balance-springs into and clasp: the perfect design of a haute performs its allotted function. The tiny spring oscillates in a small ufacturing tolerance is an incredibly one of the most difficult micromechan- Michael Sager horlogerie watch is based on precisely A tiny component – the bal- volume of space, but thanks to its tiny 0.0005 millimetres. ical tasks, which is mastered by only Head of Watch Atelier calculated formulae resulting in com- ance-spring – brings this complex high-frequency (typically either 21,600 Manual fabrication of the bal- a select few manufactures. This elite ponents built to tolerances within frac- ensemble to life. Made of a temper- or 28,000 semi-oscillations per hour), ance-spring is one of the most de- group includes, for example, Patek The trained watchmaker has tions of a millimetre. This becomes ature-compensating and nonmag- this Lilliputian powerhouse covers a manding disciplines in horology. Philippe, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-Le- directed the watch atelier even more interesting when one ex- netic alloy, the hairspring causes daily distance of approximately 20 Nowadays, most hairsprings are Coultre, Montblanc with Minerva, and at Gübelin’s headquarters in

amines the watch’s inner life because the balance-wheel to oscillate, thus kilometres. Fleurier Parmigiani Photo: industrially produced. Traditional Parmigiani Fleurier with Vaucher. Lucerne for seven years.

54 55 INSIDE WATCHES ZENITH IN DEPTH INSIDE WATCHES

by “El Primero A384 Revival”. C R E AT I V E A384 is not a new Airbus, but is the reference designation that Zenith used for this watch in 1969. It cele- brated its comeback in nearly unal- EVOLUTION tered guise in mid-January at the first watch fair of the year 2020, i.e. LVMH Watch Week in Dubai. The The Zenith watch manufactory has made history intended authenticity demanded a in particular through “El Primero”. Zenith now also wants moderate case diameter of precisely to conquer the hearts of women with its new models, 37 millimetres. An opaque screw-in which celebrated their premiere in Dubai. back embodies another tribute to the model’s illustrious past, but also means that traditional self-winding manufacture Calibre 400 flourishes in concealment. The dial’s design in the so-called “panda” look is equal- ly uncompromising. In collaboration with the central elapsed-seconds hand, the outer tachymeter scale en- ables the wearer to measure average speeds over a one-kilometre stretch. As in the past, two counters respec- tively tally up to 30 elapsed minutes and 12 elapsed hours. Of course, ra- dioactive luminous material on the dial and hands is avoided nowadays, so Super-LumiNova ensures clear legibility in the dark. Another hom- age to “The First” is the ladder-style steel bracelet, which was originally manufactured by Gay Frères. The middle row of links is accordingly not closed.

2,232 When it debuted in 1969, it caused a DEFY WITH Take a moment and let this number sensation as the world’s first tenth- TWIN BALANCES melt in your mouth. The Zenith of-a-second chronograph with A mere glance at the strikingly sporty watch manufactory, which was self-winding rotor. After a tempo- styling makes it clear why the “Defy” founded in 1865, has received exactly rary departure during the Quartz currently enjoys such extraordinary this number of prizes, accolades and Revolution, this chronographic icon success. At Zenith, this wristwatch awards in competitions for precise has been in excellent health for the traces its biography all the way back timekeeping. In addition to this, past 30 years and more. Zenith and to the era of Georges Favre-Jacot, Zenith has designed and built far El Primero are virtually synonymous although the company’s founder Brings the starry more than 100 of its own movements, for many watch fans, so it is not sur- originally spelled “Defi” with an sky to your wrist: Zenith Defy many of which wrote long-lasting prising that the traditional manufac- “i”. Simultaneously with the intro- Midnight. chapters in horological history. tory passionately cares for this icon. duction of El Primero, a new Defy The most famous example is the Creative evolution is as much a part celebrated its market launch in 1969. legendary “El Primero” chrono- of daily life in Le Locle as is the pres- This name, which needs no explana- graph calibre. Its name, which means ervation of Zenith’s rich heritage. tion to English-speaking readers,

Photo: Zenith, Text: Gisbert L. Brunner L. Gisbert Text: Zenith, Photo: “The First”, is indeed well chosen. The latter is handsomely expressed combines resilience and challenge.

56 57 INSIDE WATCHES IN DEPTH

Zenith and El Primero are virtually synonymous for many watch fans, so it is

not surprising that the traditional manufactory passionately cares for this icon. Calibre ZO 342 was the first to feature a rate regulating organ made from a single piece of silicon.

Almost true to the original: the new El Primero A384 Revival. Zenith’s CEO Julien Tornare.

The product’s designers naturally line became an important pillar of tempo enables the chronograph, The cases, which are as attractive as pensable prerequisite for optimal with an affinity for high technology. kept up with the times when they our business.” which is controlled by pushers at the they are protective, are available accuracy. The slim construction, The certifications guarantee that the created its attractive design. As the As a trendsetting product of the “2” and “4”, to stop intervals to the from Zenith in titanium, ceramic, which needs no lubricants, also calibre is insensitive to magnetic in- years went by, the latest technical 21st century, the “Defy El Primero nearest 100th of a second. Mean- carbon fibre and solid gold. counteracts the ill effects of gravity fluences, unaffected by temperature achievements were sequentially inte- 21” fully lives up to the time-hon- while, the elapsed-minute counter and magnetism. Its filigree structure, fluctuations, and has been tested and grated into the Defy collection. For oured Tempo philosophy, which the tallies events up to 30 minutes in du- DEFY INNOVATISSIMO which was designed and continuous- confirmed as an official chronometer example, hard and accordingly house of Zenith has cultivated since ration. This high speed is so ex- The “Defy Inventor”, which debut- ly optimised in the course of lengthy by TimeLab. scratch-resistant sapphire crystals 1969. Its modular automatic Cali- hausting that the mechanism can ed in 2019, ranks among the chron- studies, is thinner than a human hair Of course, the case must not be were introduced in the early 1980s. bre 9004 has two balances and, of run for only 50 minutes, but this ometric innovations par excellence. in some places. Zenith dispenses allowed to play second fiddle to the Durable cases underscored the course, a single hairspring in each. interval is long enough for everyday The approximately 30 components with a conventional dial so the fine futuristic mechanisms inside it. The meaning of the model’s catchy name. One of these two rate-regulating or- chronographic tasks. The remaining of a conventional oscillating and es- vibrations can be admired when bezel of the titanium case is made of Zenith launched a thoroughly re- gans is responsible for the ordinary energy supply is shown on a pow- capement system are replaced in ex- reading the hands that indicate the “Aeronith”. This material is 2.7 vised Defy collection when Julien time display: it oscillates at a speedy er-reserve display at the “12”. If the clusive automatic Calibre Zenith hours, minutes and seconds. The times lighter than titanium, 1.7 times Tornare took over the brand’s man- pace of five hertz, which is charac- reservoir is running low, a few twists 9100 by a monolithic oscillator, number of vibrations per hour is lighter than aluminium and 10% agement in 2017. “The Defy El teristic of El Primero, and it will of the crown soon provide a fresh which makes bearings and rotating 129,600 (18 hertz). A small silicon lighter than carbon fibre. A sophisti- Primero 21 in particular immediate- continue to vibrate for approxi- dose of power. A patented start/ parts wholly superfluous. This im- gear creates the connection to the in- cated manufacturing technology ly brought a breath of fresh air to the mately 50 consecutive hours after brake system acts on the rate regula- pressive construction is manufac- dispensable gear-train, which relies produces a porous yet wholly homo- collection”, reported Zenith’s CEO the mainspring has been fully tor and eliminates the need for a tured from monocrystalline silicon. on a rotor for self-winding and geneous metal-sponge structure in Dubai. “The success of this Defy wound. The other balance is smaller conventional clutch. Experienced An oxide coating makes the oscilla- amasses a 50-hour power reserve. filled with a special aluminium com- was far greater than we had hoped than its counterpart and vibrates ten watchmakers assemble the two-lay- tor insensitive to temperature fluctu- Each movement is certified thrice to posite material. The future of watch-

and expected. As a result, this watch times faster, i.e. at 50 hertz. This er ensemble from 293 components. Zenith Photos: ations. This, of course, is an indis- assure that it ably satisfies customers making looks like this.

58 59 INSIDE WATCHES IN DEPTH

The new Zenith Elite diamonds with an impressive total humankind’s most valuable asset, i.e. Moonphase 36 mm. weight of 1.38 carats. The outstand- precious time. This is why even the ing tactile qualities of the 36 milli- timeless Elite needed to undergo judi- metre steel case are delightfully evi- cious yet nonetheless unmistakable dent from the very first touch. The evolution after 25 years. Julien luxuriously designed etui contains Tornare is very proud of the results no fewer than four wristbands for of his company’s creative work. “The fastening this timepiece to a lady’s slender, minimalist, yet expressive slim forearm. One folding clasp se- Elite expresses our vision of contem- cures each of three leather straps. porary elegance”, Tornare says. The Julien Tornare promises cosmopoli- cases of the new “Elite Classic” and tan ladies that the straps will be “Elite Moonphase” are available in available in “countless additional stainless steel or pink gold and with colours” in coming years. The fourth diameters of 40.5 and 36 millimetres. wristband in the quartet is a link This assures that they make an equal- bracelet. It is recommended for ath- ly bella figura on both women’s and letic activities and for dives to a men’s wrists. The dial is particularly depth of 100 metres. Rubber straps expressive thanks to its fine sunburst are already in Zenith’s pipeline. A pattern. To intensify the visual effect well thought-out fastening system of depth, the face has facetted and makes it child’s play to quickly re- polished hour markers which taper move one wristband and replace it slightly towards the dial’s centre. A with another. Needless to say, Ze- fascinating play of light and shadow DEFY FOR WOMEN nith’s own mechanisms keep pre- occurs when the wearer turns his or According to Julien Tornare, “All cious time inside the case. Manufac- her wrist. Zenith watches can be worn equally ture Calibre 670 SK relies on a rotor The agony of choice not only well by men and women. However, for automatic winding, yet is a mere pertains to the case’s materials, to because our focus has traditionally 3.88 millimetres slim. It can be ad- the setting with sparkling gemstones been on men, our legitimacy in the mired through the case’s transparent and to the dial’s colour, but also to field of ladies’ watches is not par- back. The movement concatenates the choice of movement. Self-wind- ticularly strong.” Or, one might add, 187 components and runs for ap- ing Calibre 670 SK animates three not yet particularly strong, because a proximately 50 consecutive hours centrally axial hands for the hours, new era was inaugurated at LVMH without a fresh dose of energy. minutes and seconds, as well as a Watch Week, where the feminine date display in a window at the “6”. “Defy Midnight” was launched un- SIMPLE – AND SIMPLY Moonstruck watch lovers can in- der the slogan “It’s time to reach CLASSIC dulge their passion for the moon your star.” The available colours for The biography of the “Elite” watch with self-winding Calibre 692, the dials are inspired by the sky, collection begins in the 1990s. The which displays the continually which can be blue at midday, a tad mechanical renaissance of that dec- changing phases of the Earth’s pale greyish at sunrise or sometimes even ade sparked demand for a slim, pre- satellite in a specially shaped win- a bit hazy. The styling of the new cise and versatile self-winding move- dow. The seconds are shown by a timepieces, which explicitly target a ment of Zenith’s own, so the brand little rotating hand at the “9”. It female clientele, is based on proven invested millions in a comprehensive goes without saying that the highest design principles yet never overlooks development project. Calibre family standards of quality are upheld by the expectations of the 21st century. 6xx was finally ready for serial pro- the 3.88-millimetre-slim movement, Eleven diamonds and a star pattern duction in 1994: 660, 670, 680 and which amasses a power reserve of at “The slender, minimalist, yet expressive Elite on the dial accentuate the feminine 690 are the names of its variously least 48 hours. expresses our vision of contemporary elegance.” touch. The “Defy Midnight” with equipped microcosms, each of which Zenith has been an expert in diamond-studded bezel caters to la- ticks at a frequency of four hertz. As horological craftsmanship for 155 Julien Tornare dies who prefer a more opulent look. is well known, constant change is an years. This know-how is also evident

CEO of Zenith Zenith Photos: This model boasts no fewer than 48 essential and inherent attribute of in every detail of the new “Elite”.

60 61 INSIDE WATCHES IN STYLE

PLAY OF COLOURS

Nature has evolved many varieties of feathers. And the faces of today’s timepieces are equally diverse. We have brought the two together in an appealing liaison of natural beauty, elegant design and inspiring technology.

PHOTOGRAPHER & SET DESIGNER ATTILA HARTWIG

With its elegantly understated clarity, Patek Philippe’s Calatrava distinguishes itself as the quintessential ladies’ wristwatch. Reference 4897 has an extra-slim white gold case with a diameter of 33 millimetres. The bezel is set with baguette-cut diamonds and the dial is adorned with midnight-blue guilloche.

62 63 INSIDE WATCHES IN STYLE

Left: The new Tonda 1950 Double Rainbow Flying Tourbillon from Parmigiani Fleurier masterfully combines the arts of haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie. A pink gold case with a diameter of 40.20 millimetres encloses self-winding extra-slim Calibre PF517 with flying tourbillon. Gems in two rainbow-coloured gradients, arranged in opposite directions, adorn this model: a wreath of baguette-cut stones beautifies the bezel and a second row of gems forms a border around the larger subdial on the main dial, which is further embellished by a sea of diamonds that create a delightfully sparkling play of light.

Right: Cartier’s Panthère is a genuine classic, simultaneously a wristwatch and a piece of jewellery. The model shown has an 18 karat pink gold and stainless steel case measuring 27 x 37 millimetres. The bezel is set with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds with a total weight of 0.28 ct. A quartz movement ensures precise timekeeping.

64 IN STYLE INSIDE WATCHES

Left: This wristwatch brings all the beauty of the night sky to its wearer’s wrist. The dial of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Dazzling Rendez-Vous Night & Day features a day/night indicator. The bezel is set with two rows of 108 brilliant-cut diamonds, while a third row of 47 dia- monds adorns the mother-of-pearl dial and a dozen additional diamonds sparkle on the strap lugs. Self-winding Calibre 898B/1 or- chestrates this poetic horological spectacle from its secure home inside this wristwatch’s 36-millimetre-diameter pink gold case.

Right: Zenith’s El Primero Full Open reveals a truly legendary calibre: self-winding El Primero 400 oscillates at a pace of 36,000 vibrations per hour and is housed here inside a stainless steel case measuring 42 millimetres in diameter. The skeletonised dial indicates the hours, minutes and elapsed seconds from its centre; subdials display the elapsed hours and minutes, as well as the continually running seconds.

67 INSIDE WATCHES IN STYLE

Left: A true work of art, Hublot’s Unico Sang Bleu features a 45 millimetre case made of alternately satin-finished and polished ceramic. The tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Büchi designed the case, dial and wristband. The hexagonal bezel is particu- larly eye-catching. Automatic manufacture Calibre HUB1213 powers this unconven- tionally styled wristwatch.

Right: The Cat’s Eye Celestial from Girard Perregaux boasts an extra-large moon- phase display with a diameter of 8.9 milli- metres. The 35.40 by 30.40 millimetre case is made of 18 karat pink gold. The bezel is set with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds. An ad- ditional 33 diamonds sparkle on the guil- loche-embellished mother-of-pearl dial. Automatic Calibre GP03300-0125 faithfully keeps time behind the pretty face.

69 INSIDE WATCHES IN STYLE

Left: Glashütte Original’s limited special edition of the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date has a green dial with an attractive dégradé effect: the pale green hue at the face’s centre grows darker as it approaches the dial’s periphery. In addition to the brand’s typical pan- orama date, this strikingly designed chronograph also shows the elapsed seconds from the dial’s centre, the continually running seconds on a subdial, up to a 30 elapsed minutes on another subdial, up to 12 elapsed hours on a digital display with flyback mechanism, and the remaining power reserve. The 40 x 40 millimetre stainless steel case encloses the brand’s own hand-wound Calibre 37-02.

Right: The Velvet Ruby by Roger Dubuis combines glamorous design and exquisite mechanisms. The version of the ladies’ watch shown here was designed together with Gübelin and is exclusively available in Gübelin boutiques. The 36-millimetre-diameter case is made of 18 karat pink gold and provides a secure home for automatic Calibre RD830. The bezel is set with a wreath of rubies, while the moth- er-of-pearl dial is decorated with diamonds and additional rubies.

70 LIFE & STYLE INSPIRATION

ALBERT KRIEMLER Art What shaped and inspired the creative director LE CORBUSIER

of the Akris fashion house? This watercolour laid the foundation for Albert Kriemler’s art collection. He first discovered the unsigned picture of a bird in a small furniture shop – and rediscovered it much later at Le Cor- busier’s chapel in Ronchamp. “I call it ‘Sisyphus’ because I see it as a sym- bol of daily life: we fly forward, we fly backward, we move upward, we move downward.” Architecture TATIANA BILBAO

When Albert Kriemler first visited the Jinhua Architecture Park near Shang- hai, he was immediately struck by the remarkable trapezoidal shape of Magazine the exhibition space designed by the SPAZIO Mexican architect Tatiana Bilbao. Since then, the trapezoid has recurred The Italian magazine “Spazio”, which debuted in the in all Akris collections – in closures, 1950s, presented a brilliant mixture of art, culture, buckles and silhouettes, as well as in history and architecture. The publication is a source of the shape of the iconic Ai bag. inspiration for Albert Kriemler, who owns all seven issues of the short-lived magazine.

Painting ANTONIO CALDERARA

In the 1960s, the Italian painter Antonio Calderara explored the light and colours of Lake Orta in Piedmont in his abstract paintings. The painting shown below, which Calderara painted in 1960, inspired Albert Kriemler to create a dress in Akris’s collection for the spring and summer of 2020.

Albert Kriemler Creative Director of Akris

Gift Albert Kriemler has been creative director of the Swiss DOUBLE-FACED JACKET fashion house Akris for more than 40 years. Founded in 1922, this family business was gained a worldwide reputa- Kriemler received this double-faced wool jacket from Akris in tion under Kriemler’s leadership. He sees fashion as some- doll’s size as a gift from employees to celebrate his 30th anni- thing speaks for itself and accentuates women’s natural versary as creative director. It was hand-sewn by a tailor who beauty. Discreet elegance accordingly characterises his has worked for Akris since the 1970s. The jacket hangs beside designs. Albert Kriemler cultivates a passion for art and Kriemler’s desk as a daily reminder of how much can be achie- often develops his collections in collaboration with excep- Photos: Paris/Artists © F.L.C./ADAGP, Rights Society (ARS), New 2018, York courtesy of Akris (1); Akris (3) Photos: © Fondazione Calderara (1), Iwan Baan (1), Akris (2) ved through collaboration with others. tional artists and architects.

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The development of tourism in cen- traders, pilgrims, craftsmen or sol- tral Switzerland began with news of diers who journeyed to earn their miraculous cures which were said to living or seek spiritual fulfilment. occurred on the Rigi, a peak that Travelling for recreation, educa- rises to an altitude of nearly 1,800 tion or diversion was not a familiar metres between the Alps and Lakes concept prior to the Age of Enlight- Lucerne, Zug and Lauerz. The first enment, except for occasional cura- chapel was built here in 1585. By the tive trips to healing springs. In the 18th century, 15,000 pilgrims dared 17th and 18th centuries as well, very to climb the mountain each year. Its few people were able to travel at all. first hotel opened in 1816. The name Only the nobility had time for such “Rigi” could be derived Regina idle pursuits. Lucerne’s first visitors montium, which means “Queen of were therefore mainly young aristo- Mountains” in Latin. The Rigi crats, mostly from England, who became Switzerland’s most popular stopped in Lucerne on their way to destination for Alpine excursions in the Gotthard Pass and onward to the the course of the 19th century. The ancient sites and cities of Italy. Visit- number of beds on and around the ing these places was a must for aris- mountain had grown to 200 by tocrats on the Grand Tour, i.e. a 1825. The Rigi offers tourists an young nobleman’s educational jour- excellent panoramic view of the ney. This new and highly discerning Swiss Alps, the several arms of Lake clientele posed a challenge to Lucerne and the Swiss Plateau. Lucerne’s innkeepers, who initially In the 19th century, the nearby made do by renting private apart- city of Lucerne was still a compact ments which they offered to guests medieval town, heavily fortified with who expected more space and a towers and walls. It was a trading higher standard of accommodation. centre for farmers in the surround- The Hotel Goldener Adler long re- ing canton and a transshipment mained the only inn in the city that point for goods that arrived from It- had adapted to serve this high-class aly over the Gotthard Pass and were clientele. subsequently shipped across Lake Two developments subsequently Lucerne. The city had many inns, al- brought a further boom in tourism. though most of them offered only On the one hand, the industrialisa- very simple accommodations above tion that had spread from England to the tavern. These guest rooms were many European countries and Amer-

Photo: Library of Congress/Wikimedia intended for the era’s travellers, e.g. ica soon led to the emergence of a wealthy middle class. Manufactur- ers, merchants and bankers exponen- tially expanded the clientele of trav- ellers. On the other hand, the Alps were being reinterpreted: viewed as a MAJESTIC mere hindrance until the 17th century, they were deemed inhospitable or The Schweizerhofquai was built for even hideous. But their image im- It was tourism that first made Lucerne the city we know today: glamorous hotel palaces the erection of the Hotel Schweizerhof, proved during the Romantic era, shape the city’s face and recount the history of its prominent visitors. Lucerne’s first grand hotel. when the Alps came to epitomise the

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The list of Lucerne’s written “thank you” note that she penned on the print (see p. 78). guests reads like a “Who’s Who” Most historians date the begin- of European nobility. ning of Lucerne’s modern hotel in- dustry to 1835, when the Hotel Schwanen reopened after a fire and became the city’s first hotel with a location directly beside Lake Lu- cerne and a view of the Rigi. As early freedom and sublimity of nature and the wish list for many English travel- as 1810, the Hotel des Balances natural beauty. lers. The English travel guide “A already delighted its guests with a This reappraisal greatly benefit- Guide to Lucerne, Engelberg, Rigi view of the mountains. This venue ted Switzerland, which boasts an and the Italian Lakes” was printed was so successful that it had to be abundance of natural beauty. Geneva, in an edition of 60,000 copies. enlarged just three years later. The Lausanne and Vevey quickly became Faced with an onslaught of Hotel Belle Vue, now known as tourist hot spots as early as the begin- prominent visitors, the medieval city Hotel Seeburg, opened in 1835. ning of the 19th century, but it took of Lucerne transformed itself in just The owner of the inner-city somewhat longer for tourists to dis- a few years into a tourist magnet hotel Goldener Adler had an espe- cover Lucerne. Thanks to its idyllic that attracted, entertained and in- cially bold plan. His new hotel was and sun-drenched location beside spired a high-class clientele. The city to be built directly on Lake Lucerne Lake Lucerne, and further beautified became an international tourist des- – and not just anywhere, but atop an by its views of the Rigi, Mount Pilatus tination, and tourism developed into artificial embankment deposited in and the nearby peaks of the Alps, Lu- an important economic sector and a the lake and extending to the Hof- cerne earned and long retained an ex- driving force for urban development. brücke. The lakeshore, which had clusive reputation among the nobility. “Location” was the decisive criteri- remained natural until then, was to The list of Lucerne’s guests reads on for the success of its hotels, and undergo straightening and fortifica- like a “Who’s Who” of European ar- “location” in Lucerne primarily tion, and the bridge was slated for istocracy. The crowned heads in- means beside the lake and with a demolition. The city council ap- cluded Queen Sophie of the Nether- view of the majestic mountains in proved the plan in 1836, but the em- lands in 1853, King Leopold I of the surrounding area. The furnish- bankment initially failed and the Belgium in 1854, King Johann of ings and interior décor of these ho- plans were temporarily shelved. The Saxony in 1857, the Tsarina of tels were patterned after aristocratic project was revived in 1843, when Russia in 1860, King Ferdinand of models. Retailers likewise adapted Xaver Segesser, a hotelier on the Portugal in 1863, and three regents their selection of merchandise to ca- in 1865: Emperor Napoleon III of ter to the tastes of discerning guests. France, King Wilhelm III of Holland As shown by signatures in the and King Ludwig II of Bavaria. The guest book of the Gübelin boutique, travel-loving Austrian Empress these visitors later also included ce- Attractive: the Rigi, the “Queen Elisabeth, better known as “Sisi”, lebrities such as Walt Disney, Erich of Mountains”, commands a was a frequent guest. When the Ger- Maria Remarque, Arthur Rubinstein marvellous view of Lucerne, the man Emperor Wilhelm II stopped in and Cole Porter. In 1903, Gübelin Alps and Lake Lucerne. A castle for the bourgeoisie: Lucerne for four hours in 1893, moved into the former hotel the hotel Château Gütsch 25,000 people gathered to cheer Englischer Hof and thus opened a Popular: 15,000 hikers and imitates the aristocratic style. him. A sensation was also caused by new location at a posh address on pilgrims visited the Rigi each year at the beginning of the the visit of Queen Victoria of Eng- Schwanenplatz. The actress Audrey 19th century and 200 hotel beds land, who stayed at the Pension Hepburn visited Gübelin in 1954, a were available for them. At this Wallis from 7 August to 9 September fact confirmed by a photo of her time, Lucerne was not yet a 1868. After a huge echo in her wedding with Mel Ferrer on the Bür- tourist destination in its own right,

homeland’s media, Lucerne soon led genstock together with the hand- but a stop on the route to Italy. Photos: Markus Thoenen/iStockphoto (1), Images AKG (1), Hotel Château Gütsch (1)

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Rigi, announced that he was inter- Celebrity visitors: Gübelin’s ested in building a hotel on the lake. guest book includes this photo When his spacious, elegant and dig- of Audrey Hepburn’s wedding nified Schweizerhof opened in 1845, on the Bürgenstock. it was the first grand hotel in the city and it soon became Lucerne’s lead- ing hotel. The Schweizerhofquai, which was created by the embank- ment, soon became a magnificent outdoor area and a favourite prome- more pleasant with the construction nade for European aristocrats and of the railway: Lucerne’s first railway Lucerne’s residents. Today, the Hotel station opened in 1859. The rise of Schweizerhof commemorates its col- the bourgeoisie throughout Europe ourful history with an unusual idea: also enabled progressively larger seg- each of its 101 rooms bears the name ments of the population to travel. of a celebrity guest who stayed in the Lucerne’s tourism boom continued historic venue. Artefacts, quotations until the turn of the century, with and furniture recall celebrities such large groups of tourists arriving every as Kaiser Wilhelm II, Richard Wag- week, mainly from Germany, France ner, Mark Twain, Leo Tolstoy and and America. Two new hotels opened Neil Armstrong. each year. The nobility, on the other From the 1850s onwards, hand, moved on to more exclusive Lucerne grew far beyond its former destinations in the second half of the borders with the addition of new 19th century. Hotels dating from hotels along the lakeshore. The these years refer to their former aris- Schwanen and Schweizerhof hotels tocratic clientele: bearing names such were joined by the Rigi, the as Château Gütsch, Hotel Palace or READ IN DEPTH Englischer Hof and the Luzernerhof. Hotel Royal, they imitate aristocratic These were the prelude to a long se- dwellings with style and décor that This article is based on a doctoral ries of other hotel buildings erected appeal to vacationers from the upper dissertation by the Lucerne architect farther and farther from the city’s middle classes. The Château Gütsch Dr Peter Omachen, who describes centre. Luxurious accommodations in particular reminds many visitors the city’s rise to the status of a were built in the most beautiful loca- of Neuschwanstein, the fairytale magnet for tourists. Omachen de- tions with unobstructed views of the castle in Bavaria. scribes the beginnings of tourism in lake and mountains, but other resi- Lucerne grew into a veritable Lucerne, the architecture and glory dential and commercial buildings tourist centre in the second half of of its palatial hotels, and the prove- were soon erected nearby. The view the 19th century. By the end of the nance of their guests and staff. With of the city and the lakeshore was century, the city of approximately over 300 mostly historical illustra- formatively shaped by the hotels’ 40,000 inhabitants annually wel- tions, the book chronicles both the facades. Their style was strictly clas- comed nearly 200,000 guests and city and its hotels. An extensive cata­ sicist at first, but they became more tallied over half a million overnight logue section offers much informa- elaborate and more playful in the his- stays in more than 100 hotels and tion about Lucerne’s most important toricist period and the Belle Epoque, guesthouses. Many of these historic hotels, which were built prior to 1914. simultaneously serving as promi- and majestic hotels still exist today Living history: all rooms in Close connection: the poster Location matters: a view of nently visible architectural calling and continue to shape the image of Peter Omachen: Luzern – eine the Hotel Schweizerhof are presents jewellery by Gübelin Lucerne, Lake Lucerne and the cards and advertising messages. the city as they did when they were Touristenstadt.­ Hotelarchitektur von dedicated to celebrity guests. from 1951 in front of a view of local mountain (Mount Pilatus)

Travelling became much faster and first built. 1782 bis 1914. Hier+Jetzt Verlag, 2010. Photos: Hotel Schweizerhof (1), Hotel Montana (1) Lucerne dating from 1851. from the Hotel Montana.

78 79 INSPIRATION CITY dior.com

D ON ’ T MISS

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01 VILLA SCHWEIZERHOF In stately surroundings, chef Marcel 02 Ineichen creates honest cuisine spiced with regional produce and fresh herbs from his own garden. The menu is based on the power of Swiss nature: e.g. lake trout from Meggen, game dients from the market. An exquisite from Gersauer Berg and risotto from wine selection accompanies the meals. the Maggia Valley. The wines likewise come directly from Switzerland or from Schwanenplatz 4, 6004 Lucerne Swiss vintners abroad. www.cafedeville.ch

Haldenstrasse 30, 6006 Lucerne www.villa-schweizerhof.ch 03 HAMMETSCHWAND LIFT Europe’s highest open-air lift connects Roland Imboden 02 the rocky and exposed path on the Bür- Director Retail Stores Lucerne RESTAURANT SCHWANEN genstock near Lucerne with the Ham- “CAFÉ DE VILLE” metschwand lookout point at 1,114 Roland Imboden has been with Gault Millau calls it “the perfect lunch metres. A trip in the three-sided glazed Gübelin for five years. He is responsi- address” in Lucerne. The aromas of cabin, which can accommodate up to a ble for the boutique on Schweizer- fresh coffee and pastries begin beckon- dozen passengers, takes only about 50 hofquai and for the tourism marketing ing at 7 a.m. each morning. The kitchen seconds and is rewarded with a breath- division. Prior to joining Gübelin, he is open all day. Homemade classics such taking view of Lake Lucerne, the city of gained experience in tourism and the as legendary entrecôte Café de Ville, Lucerne and the Alpine panorama. upscale automotive industry. Imboden fine beef tartare or the club sandwich holds an EMBA from the Lucerne Uni- are highly recommended. The range is Bürgenstock 17, 6363 Obbürgen versity of Applied Sciences and Arts

seasonally augmented by fresh ingre- www.buergenstock.ch and a diploma as a tourism expert. Photos: Villa Schweizerhof (1), Studio Philipp Klemm/Restaurant Schwanen (1), Switzerland Tourism (1) DIOR GRAND BAL PLUME 36MM AUTOMATIC 80 STEEL, GOLD, DIAMONDS, MOTHER-OF-PEARL AND FEATHERS LIMITED EDITION OF 88 PIECES ART INSPIRATION

The visual artist Miriam Laura Leonardi was inspired by the inner life of a rare padparadscha sapphire. The results are a series of sixteen artworks PLAYING presented at artgenève in cooperation with Gübelin Jewellery. WITH OPPOSITES

In her artworks, the Zurich-based artist Miriam Laura Leonardi likes to play with signs and symbols and with the meanings ascribed to them by their viewers. She plays with more or less obvious references to film and literature, the art world and everyday life. Ultimately, she also plays with the viewer and his or her cultural conditioning: Leonardi’s artworks reveal their abundance of allusions and references, inspirations and constructions only after the viewers have allowed themselves to enter into a lengthy and deep in- volvement with the subject. Leonar- di disassembles and recombines, in- serts seemingly familiar items into new contexts, and thus creates novel references and unexpected levels of interpretation, all of which reveal only one thing: namely, that nothing is as obvious as it might seem at first glance. An ironic or self-satirical un- dertone often resonates. This is also evident in the artwork that she creat- ed for this year’s artgenève art fair in cooperation with Gübelin Jewellery: “Dial M for Slippers” is the title she chose for a series of sixteen leather slippers that she designed and ar- ranged to have hand-sewn and print- ed with excerpts from photographs.

“Dial M for Slippers” and Gübelin Jewellery’s masterpiece Blushing Wing were presented together at artgenève.

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A print of fine structures inside a Each slipper The artworks padparadscha sapphire adorns the shows a different were created with sixteen artworks by Miriam Laura excerpt from the tremendous Leonardi. photograph. attention to detail.

The motifs were by no means arbi- about her inspiration. “I liked the ing but individual pieces. And instead der a microscope, Leonardi’s slippers making is a traditional craft like that hand, it alludes to Andy Warhol’s trarily chosen. The images depict the idea of distributing this code over as of working with gold, diamonds and turn the inclusions outward and of the goldsmith. All of the slippers sketch of a red strapped high-heel inner life of a rare padparadscha many slippers as possible. I used dif- precious stones, she chose soft, sup- make them visible at first glance. for “Dial M for Slippers” are sewn by shoe with the phrase “Dial M for sapphire, which only becomes visi- ferent excerpts in each instance to ple leather as her material. She con- Jewellery is usually worn on the hand, using the finest and smallest Shoe” from 1955, which Warhol ble under a microscope and which create individual pieces rather than trasts the sparkle of the jewellery head or the hand, but these slippers handiwork, which is not dissimilar to created along with fifteen other inspired Gübelin’s designers and serially made products, although the with the silky sheen of the leather. adorn only their wearer’s feet. “This the art and craft of the goldsmith. sketches while he was employed as goldsmiths to create the artistic piece slippers could theoretically be manu- The feeling of luxury and the public causes a shift in the angle of vision. The title of her artwork plays an illustrator for the I. Miller shoe of jewellery known as Blushing factured in countless quantities.” display that accompanies jewellery is Adopting a new perspective can nev- with various pop-cultural references company. Already at that time, “Dial Wing. Leonardi arranged the result- She loves this playing with oppo- contrasted with the private tranquilli- er harm a viewer of art”, Miriam and also expresses Leonardi’s subtle M for Shoe” had a direct relation- ing images in ever-changing excerpts sites. Instead of one outstanding indi- ty and cosiness that slippers signalise. Laura Leonardi says. self-irony. On the one hand, of ship to the Hitchcock film. “Dial M on the slippers. “The photo of the vidual piece like Gübelin Jewellery’s Furthermore, while the sapphire Leonardi even learned to cobble course, the title recalls Alfred Hitch- for Slippers” now alludes to War- structures inside the gem looks to me Blushing Wing, she creates an entire hides its inclusions in its interior and in a “short but certified apprentice- cock’s classic film “Dial M for Mur- hol’s artwork, also through the num- like a digital code”, says the artist series that ultimately consists of noth- reveals them to the observer only un- ship as a shoemaker in Brienz”. Shoe- der” from 1954 and, on the other ber of slippers in the limited series of

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Miriam Laura The much-admired Raphael Gübelin with gallery owner Maria Bernheim, Below: A pair of Leonardi loves to presence of the art artist Miriam Laura Leonardi, artgenève’s managing artworks from the play with signs cooperation at the director Thomas Hug and Thomas Prantl, Executive “Dial M for and symbols. artgenève. Vice President Jewellery (from right to left). Slippers” series.

GÜBELIN JEWELLERY AT ARTGENÈVE

sixteen. The “M”, in turn, can also lages, films and paintings, many of Rome. This summer she will move the exclusive art fair. In addition, her The exclusive four-day artgenève art fair has been in existence be interpreted as a reference to the which were created in collaboration to New York, where she will remain works have been shown, and are still since 2011 and sees itself as a “Salon d’Art”. It offers a unique forum artist’s first name “Miriam”. with other artists. Hand-sewn and for a stay at the invitation of the being shown, at many locations and for selected local and international galleries such as Gagosian, Artworks by Miriam Laura printed slippers are now another Swiss Institute. galleries around the world: for ex- Hauser & Wirth, Peter Kilchmann and Urs Meile, as well as for re- Leonardi, who is represented by form of art and expression. “Dial M for Slippers” is Leonar- ample, in solo and group exhibitions nowned collectors and art aficionados. The number of exhibitors is Galerie Maria Bernheim (Zurich), The artist, who has lived and di’s second participation at art- at Aguirre (Mexico City), Bel Ami limited to only 100, which guarantees a highly personal and intimate are always rich in allusion and inter- worked in Zurich since 2012, was genève. She and two other artists al- (Los Angeles), Fri Art (Fribourg), atmosphere. Gübelin Jewellery is official partner of artgenève and pretation. They defy assignment to born in 1985 in Lörrach, Germany. ready attracted admiring attention Glarus (Glarus), at Galerie Maria presented a cooperation with Miriam Laura Leonardi in 2020. any single genre. One can also say She studied photography in Paris here in 2015 in the context of a spe- Bernheim (Zurich), the Astrup Artworks by Gübelin Jewellery and Miriam Laura Leonardi were that Leonardi too does not allow and afterwards at Zurich University cial exhibition at the Kunst Halle Fearnley Museum (Oslo), the Swiss exhibited together at artgenève. The design of the stand and the herself to be restricted by any one of the Arts. She earned her Master of Sankt Gallen. The collaboration Institute New York (New York), exhibition presentation were also part of the cooperation. genre. Her oeuvre accordingly in- Fine Arts degree with distinction. with Gübelin Jewellery has now giv- Plymouth Rock (Zurich) and

cludes installations, sculptures, col- Leonardi has lived and worked in en her artworks a spacious staging at Photos: Galerie Maria Bernheim (2) Marbriers 4 (Geneva).

86 MASTERS INSPIRATION

METAMORPHOSIS OF THE FEATHER

Lemarié, which is probably the most famous Parisian plumassier, regularly enchants customers and the international press at haute couture shows. Feathercraft is a time-honoured métier that has always stayed up to date thanks to the House of Chanel, to which Ateliers Lemarié belongs.

The wearing of feathers epitomises exotic feathers revived the fashion grace. The practice dates back to the and employed no fewer than 300 earliest civilizations. Feathercraft plumassiers in Paris. This era also was a sacred art in Brazil and among coincided with the founding in 1880 many indigenous peoples of the of the House of Lemarié by Palmyre Americas. Feathers first appear in Coyette, whose married name was European folkloric garb in the 13th Lemarié. A trained hatter, she con- century, when hatters began using tinued to develop the art of feather- peacock feathers. Feathercraft final- craft on hats for her clients, but she ly became a profession in its own also designed feather boas for the right in the 15th century. cabarets that flourished on the grand Plumassiers created many differ- boulevards of Paris. Fashion became ent varieties of headgear such as pa- more straightforward from the naches, hats, barettes, aigrettes, etc. 1930s onwards, and simpler head- These were worn mainly by men, gear was worn. especially by important gentlemen, The founder’s grandson André to emphasise their high status. Lemarié joined the family business Ostrich feathers made hats more ex- in 1946 with the intention of diversi- travagant, as can be seen in fying the company into other areas. “Marie-Antoinette with the Rose”, He presented ornamental feathered Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun’s famous patterns to the big fashion houses 1783 portrait of the French queen in and expanded his business’s activi- the Château of Versailles. Queen ties to include the production of fab- Christelle Kocher Marie-Antoinette’s hat, which was ric flowers, a second mainstay that Creative Director of Lemarié adorned with three ostrich feathers, still exists today. Lemarié’s first col- started a fashion trend among the laborations with Gabrielle Chanel ladies, who continued to cultivate it began in the 1960s. Above all, she until the French Revolution. commissioned Lemarié to create the Left: the stuff that dreams During the Belle Epoque (1871- flower that was to become Chanel’s are made of: feathers in Lemarié’s studio. Photos: Anne Combaz (1), Frédérique Massabuau Brenzinger (1). Kyra Text: 1914), the accessibility of new and symbol: the camellia.

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“I didn’t want to reproduce the nostalgic touch that the art of feathercraft frequently evokes. Instead, I wanted to show that feathers are a modern and sustainable material.”

Christelle Kocher Extravagance, and with it the art of ers come exclusively from farmed Creative Director of Lemarié the plumassier, enjoyed a renais- animals (not wild birds) that were sance in the fashions of the 1980s. raised on certified and controlled One recalls, for example, the feath- farms. Feathers from roosters, geese, ered goddesses in Thierry Mugler’s ducks, pigeons, pheasants and os- iconic collections. John Galliano triches are transformed into marvel- followed suit in the 1990s: he was lous ornaments or dream-come-true inspired by the elegant ladies of the dresses. Various techniques are used: Belle Epoque and their grand feath- each type of feather is specifically ered hats. These were modernised processed, cut, worked with a knife, by the young Jean Paul Gaultier sewn onto fabric or otherwise spe- and celebrated by the Englishman cially treated. “Ostrich feathers, for Alexander McQueen. example, are light and bring move- In 1996, Lemarié joined Chanel, ment. Duck feathers are shiny and which had been bringing talented stiff so they can be easily cut. And suppliers of haute couture under its pigeon feathers are simple and shine roof since the 1980s as part of like lacquer.” Chanel’s plan to preserve their often When Christelle Kocher first centuries-old expertise “made in came to Lemarié, there was not yet a France”. Alongside Lemarié, Chanel large in-house archive. With her gradually took over the embroidery passion for contemporary art, she expert Lesage, the embroidery stu- brought a new vision to the creative dio Montex, the shoemaker Massa- métier. “I didn’t want to reproduce ro, the hat and finery workshop the nostalgic touch that the art of Maison Michel, the Lognon studio feathercraft frequently evokes. In- (which specialises in pleats), the stead, I wanted to show that feathers large Paloma Flou Atelier (specialis- are a modern and sustainable mate- ing in delicate fabrics), Goossens rial. Through research and innova- goldsmiths, etc. tion, we can modernise the use of Christelle Kocher, who became feathers, e.g. with the aid of the silk- Creative Director of Lemarié ten screen techniques we saw at the last years ago, explains the importance of Chanel Haute Couture Défilée (the the House of Chanel and its foresight collection for the spring and summer Left: each type of feather in preserving the expertise of one of of 2020), with silkscreen logos in is processed, cut, worked the last Parisian plumassiers: “When black covering the entire surface of a with a knife, sewn onto I came to Lemarié, no more than 18 white feathered skirt. We can also fabric or otherwise people were working in the studio. use laser cutting to create genuine specially treated in the studios of Lemarié. Today, we are 80 employees and we lace, or we can print pictures.” continue to regularly accept new Christelle Kocher explains that Bottom left: a collection trainees, to whom we pass on the Karl Lagerfeld adored feathers and of various feather skills and techniques. We also collab- even hung framed feather inlays in his combinations. orate with many schools in Paris and home, for example, a model in black with the Central Saint Martins art and white made of duck and pheas- Below right: white school in London”, of which ant feathers. Approximately 40 hours feathered skirt with silkscreen printed logos Christelle Kocher is an alumna. of work are required to produce a 15 from the “Métiers d’Art The use of feathers is more by 20 cm picture, and considerably

Photos: Anne Combaz Chanel (4), (1) 2019-20” collection. strictly controlled nowadays. Feath- more time and labour are needed to

90 91 INSPIRATION MASTERS

ary 2019. The gala défilé of the Métiers d’Art took place in Decem- ber 2019 at the Grand Palais, a ven- ue typical of the charismatic couturi- er. In honour of the work of the 33 houses of Chanel’s luxury crafts, the models vied to surpass one another in beauty and artistic value. Starting next autumn, this sym- biosis of craftsmanship can be ad- mired at Chanel’s unique new head- quarters in Aubervilliers, north of Paris, which will provide a new home for the various studios along with workspace for some 5,000 em- ployees. For this project, the House of Chanel has chosen the French ar- chitect Rudy Rucciotti, who is well known for his innovative techniques and who has created concrete struc- Besides feather- craft, Lemarié is tures reminiscent of textiles. The also synonymous house was named 19M: “M” stands with floral art.. for “main, mode et métier” (hand, fashion and crafts) and “19” for the 19th arrondissement on the outskirts of Paris. 19M is both a and a show- case for celebrating the artisanal her- create an entire dress or to finish a never-fading camellias, dahlias, peo- itage of Parisian fashion, as well as hat, bag, shoe or piece of jewellery. nies, carnations, anemones, poppies, an agora and a lively environment Everything created for brands is made tulips, orchids or roses. “Our studio for sharing and dialogue on 1,200 to measure because each fashion practises various crafts: feathers, square metres of floor space. Bruno house has its own identity. “I have a flowers, and also sewing for various Pavlovsky, President of Chanel Fash- five-person creative team. We create customers, as well as integrated pat- ion and Chanel SAS, explains: “Our patterns that reflect our different terns, frills, sophisticated smocking responsibility is to put people at the skills. We present these samples to the and pleating in collaboration with heart of the 19M project.” With this various brands and fashion houses, the pleating specialist Lognon, which project, not only Chanel, but the which order specific techniques and is also part of Chanel.” whole of France is consolidating its individual colour combinations.” All this artistry comes to life es- unsurpassed position in the fashion The House of Lemarié is also pecially at the eagerly awaited annu- universe, where elegant ladies from Chanel’s dresses known for its production of flowers. al parade of Chanel artists, organ- around the globe can dress them- combine the skills Expert artisans transform organza, ised by Virginie Viard, who took selves in the loveliest creations of of experts in many muslin, tulle, leather or velvet, some- over Chanel’s artistic direction after fashion designers and, of course, different specialized

times augmented with feathers, into the death of Karl Lagerfeld in Febru- contemporary plumassiers. Photos: Anne Combaz (3), Chanel (1) studios.

92 INSIDE GÜBELIN INSIGHTS

such as Cartier, Bulgari, Van Cleefs & How can one conceptualise the pro- Arpels, Fabergé and many other illus- cess of a purchase or an appraisal? trious names. “Our Zurich store helps What factors are taken into account? us to be somewhat more visible to re- How “objectively” can a piece’s value tail customers”, says Managing Direc- be determined? And like beauty, isn’t tor Gilles Walthert. “At the same time, value too ultimately in the eye of the it also serves as a direct point of con- beholder or owner? “As a rule, we only tact for our core business: buying and appraise merchandise that we can hold selling of jewellery, watches and pre- in our own two hands and examine cious stones. Of course, this is always ourselves”, says Gilles Walthert. “Pho- accompanied by accurate appraisals of tos or descriptions are not sufficient the value of the pieces.” for this.” Pieces can be presented di- Edigem is the best address for an- rectly to Edigem by appointment, sent yone who has inherited jewellery and to Edigem by courier, or submitted wants to know what it is worth, who to the specialised staff in one of the would like to part with older pieces to Gübelin boutiques. “Once we have re- make room for new ones, who collects ceived the items, they are fully covered jewellery from a specific era or brand, by our insurance”, Gilles Walthert or who is looking for jewellery with a explains. “In the case of large orders, very special design or with rare gem- we’ll be happy to visit the customer di- stones in special cuts. rectly, if desired.” This is indispensable because ACCESS TO UNIQUE scrutiny of the piece in the appraiser’s RESSOURCES hands is essential to determine which Founded as a subsidiary of the alloy of precious metal the piece was Gübelin company in 1982, Edigem not made from, as well as which gem- only buys and sells jewellery and gem- stones were used, their weight, colour stones, but also appraises and evalu- and purity, the quality of their cut, and ates them. The name “Edigem” was the overall processing of the piece of created by combining the nickname of jewellery. For example: Is it a beauti- the famous gemmologist Eduard “Edi” ful piece of handmade jewellery? How Josef Gübelin and the English word fine is the goldsmith’s craftsmanship? for precious stone (gem). Anyone who Are any processing defects visible? visits a Gübelin boutique to request an And are all parts still original – or have appraisal of the value of their precious repairs been made? stones will receive an expert opinion “Using these criteria, and based on from Edigem. the value of the materials and the esti- “To maintain our objectivity, we mated processing labour, we can cal- are economically and legally inde- culate the piece’s insurance or replace- Until recently, the name “Edigem” was pendent”, explains Gilles Walthert, ment value”, Gilles Walthert explains. most likely known only among special- who has worked for Gübelin for 25 This value expresses what a new piece ists, dealers and jewellers. But that was years and for Edigem since 2003. “At would cost if purchased at the jeweller’s before January of last year, when this the same time, however, our local at today’s prices. By request, Edigem’s “OUR CURRENCY Gübelin subsidiary took a daring leap proximity gives us access to Gübelin’s experts can also calculate other values: into the public eye at Limmatquai 62, resources, which are very likely un- e.g. the retail value, which is the value of in the heart of Zurich, where Edigem surpassed in the industry. In case of IS TRUST” opened its first store of its own. Since doubt, we can always ask the Gübelin then, jewellery lovers have flocked to Gem Lab for advice, as well as the gem- the attractive location, where they stone setters and master goldsmiths at Gilles Walthert, Managing Edigem buys, sells and appraises jewellery and gemstones with find a large selection of exquisite vin- Gübelin Jewellery, all of whom work Director of Edigem, in the shop a history – also for over a year now at its own shop in Zurich. tage jewellery from renowned brands in the same building as we do.” on Limmatquai in Zurich.

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White gold the materials plus a surcharge, assum- earclips with two ing that there is enough time to sell the untreated rubies item, i.e. that a potential purchaser can (t.w. 2.54 ct) and be found. This differs from the liquida- triple tourage of tion value, i.e. the pure material value 102 diamonds (t.w. 6.00 ct); that would be achieved if an immedi- platinum ring with ate sale were unavoidable, e.g. to create untreated ruby short-term liquidity. Another measure from Burma of a piece’s worth is the so-called “in- (2.73 ct) and heritance value”, which assumes that diamond roses. there is adequate time to sell the piece, but that this interval is shorter than the timeframe for a normal sale at market Necklace with 13 Colombian emeralds (t.w. 25 ct) value. “Naturally, every estimate is al- and 357 diamonds (t.w. 53.5 ct) in various cuts. ways an approximation”, says Gilles Walthert. “Based on all the information available to us, we calculate these values as objectively and independently as pos- sible and afterwards compile our dossi- the requisite technical know-how, but much tighter than for diamonds.” And, er in a completely transparent manner.” must also enjoy communicating and of course, it’s the name that counts. But what if the prior owner was a ce- networking with people: “Our clients The interest and the price both go up lebrity or if the piece has a special his- come from all over the world and we when the pieces of jewellery come from tory? Precious items of this kind often purchase jewellery and gemstones from large and well-known jewellers. To change hands at auctions for prices that around the globe. Our currency is the which factors do the experts at Edigem would have never been thought possi- trust of our clients and partners, our attach the greatest importance when ble. “Proof of prior celebrity ownership reliability and our discretion. Above all, they purchase jewellery? “We are not must be airtight. Even then, there is no we must be able to organise our knowl- looking for sheer mass or volume, but way to reliably predict the price that can edge: we have to ensure that we are for pieces with genuine charm”, says ultimately be achieved for the piece”, known by people in the relevant circles Gilles Walthert, summarising the cri- says Gilles Walthert. and that they know what we are look- teria. This charisma could derive from ing for and what we have to offer. Build- special coloured gemstones, unusual Double-clip PROVEN COMPETENCE ing and cultivating these relationships designs or special craftsmanship. Edi- brooch from the 1960s, set with AND EXPERIENCE is a major part of our business”, says gem’s experts seek jewellery with that 188 diamonds Reliable examination of the pieces and Gilles Walthert, describing the work of special extra and fabricated with ap- (t.w. 12.00 ct). objective assessment of market oppor- the experts. The team is annually repre- pealingly high quality. Edigem shares tunities requires many years of com- sented at five to six major jewellery and this standard with Gübelin: “We are petence and experience, along with a gemstone fairs, where they meet inter- quite choosy and only buy a selected certain “eye” for exquisite pieces. All national dealers or share their expertise portion of the merchandise offered to of Edigem’s employees are trained as speakers at conferences of the Swiss us. At the same time, and thanks to our gemmologists: they hold an F.G.A. Gemmological Society. affiliation with Gübelin as our parent diploma from the Gemmological As- Which pieces are currently in company, we can bid on very rare and sociation of Great Britain (Gem-A) or great demand and eagerly sought-af- sought-after pieces and acquire them have completed training as a Graduate ter? “Beautiful, unusual, large pieces for our customers.” Gemologist (G.G.) at the Gemological are perennially popular”, says Gilles How much of a role is ultimate- Many years of competence and Institute of America (GIA) or have Walthert. “Jewellery buyers have always ly played by personal taste? Gilles experience, as well as a certain “eye” earned an accredited diploma from the sought unique items, i.e. pieces of jew- Walthert smiles: “Of course, the for exquisite pieces, are indispensable Federation for European Education in ellery that no one else wears.” Further- jewellery does not have to please me for reliable examination of the Gemmology (FEEG). more, the demand remains strong for personally or my team, but our custom- To buy and sell jewellery and classic pieces such as solitaires. “There ers. Nevertheless, based on my experi- pieces and appraisal of their market gemstones, which is Edigem’s primary is also avid interest in gorgeous colour- ence, I can say: It is much easier to sell a opportunities. business, employees must not only have ed gemstones: the market for these is piece that one likes oneself.”

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EVENTS Unforgettable experiences from and with Gübelin

AURORA PRESENTATION Gübelin Jewellery celebrated the launch of the new Aurora jewellery world together with customers and friends of the House of Gübelin such as model Sindi Arifi (left) and jewellery expert Katerina Perez (right). The event took place on 24 October 2019 in Zurich with a cocktail reception followed by dinner. The masterpiece, the Rising Lotus ring, was presented in a choreography by Yen Han, a soloist with the Zurich Ballet.

EXHIBITION AT BADRUTT’S PALACE From 31 January to 9 February 2020, Gübelin Jewellery presented the Aurora world and other unique pieces of jewellery with an exclusive exhibi- tion in the Madonna Hall of the Hotel Badrutt’s Palace in St. Moritz. Visitors also received an introduction to the world of gemmology in the form of a GÜBELIN LUCERNE SYMPHONY BALL brief presentation and could savour the On 30 November 2019, some 260 ball aficionados and culture enthusiasts from the worlds of business, atmosphere in the historical hall during politics and culture accepted the invitation to attend the second Gübelin Lucerne Symphony Ball, which cocktail receptions. supports the Luzerner Sinfonieorchester’s musical youth development programme. The charity event raised over 72,000 Swiss francs. Among the musical highlights was a performance by the up-and-coming 16-year- old Spanish violinist Maria Dueñas (see the right-hand photo above). The guests included Nina Burri, Sindi Arifi (see lower photo), Laetitia Guarino and Clifford Lilley. The shining highlight of the charity raffle was a padparadscha ring from the Splendid Feather line by Gübelin Jewellery valued at circa 20,000 Swiss francs.

98 99 INSIDE GÜBELIN PREVIEW SOCIAL MEDIA INSIDE GÜBELIN

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Inspiring events in the coming months

EXHIBITIONS

10 May to 30 August 2020 Monet, Cézanne, Van Gogh. Masterpieces of the Emil Bührle Collection Masi, Lugano

2 June to 10 September 2020 Geneva Biennial: Sculpture Garden artgenève, Geneva

GÜBELIN ACADEMY COLOUR ED GEM PROFESSIONAL COURSES

3 September to 31 October 2020 Date Level Language Location Qiu Shihua 03 June – 04 June Level 1 German Lucerne Galerie Urs Meile, Lucerne 08 June – 09 June Level 1 Mandarin Beijing 16 June – 17 June Level 1 English Hong Kong 17 June – 18 June Level 1 English Lucerne 18 June – 24 June Level 2 English Hong Kong ART FAIR 22 June – 26 June Level 2 English Lucerne 03 July – 04 July Level 1 Mandarin Shanghai 06 July – 10 July Level 2 Mandarin Shanghai 06 July – 10 July Level 3 English Hong Kong 20 July – 24 July Level 3 Mandarin Hong Kong 30 July – 31 July Level 1 English Hong Kong 16 Sept. – 17 Sept. Level 1 English Lucerne 21 Sept. – 25 Sept. Level 2 English Lucerne 05 Oct. – 09 Oct. Level 3 English Lucerne 21 Oct. – 22 Oct. Level 1 German Lucerne 26 Oct. – 30 Oct. Level 2 German Lucerne 02 Nov. – 06 Nov. Level 3 English Lucerne 11 Nov. – 12 Nov. Level 1 English Lucerne 17 to 20 September 2020 16 Nov. – 20 Nov. Level 2 English Lucerne Art Basel

Messe Basel www.gubelin-academy.com Photos: Galerie Urs Meile (1), Art Basel (1) @GUBELINOFFICIAL @GUBELINGEMMOLOGY

100 BOUTIQUES INSIDE GÜBELIN

ZURICH Since its opening in 1932, the boutique, W E L C OM E alongside exclusive designers, hotels and galleries, has hallmarked Bahnhofstrasse in the heart of the city. In addition to Gübelin TO Jewellery, the Zurich boutique presents Patek Philippe, Cartier, Chanel, Girard- GÜBELIN Perregaux, Glashütte Original, IWC Schaff- hausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc, Parmigiani Fleurier and Zenith.

Jeannine Matthys Boutique Director Bahnhofstrasse 36, 8001 Zurich Tel. +41 44 387 52 20 [email protected]

LUCERNE – GENEVA SCHWEIZERHOFQUAI Opened in 1944, this boutique is located on On the site of Hotel d’Angleterre, this is Rue du Rhône, the city’s prestigious shop- Gübelin’s oldest boutique, opened in 1903 ping street lined with late 19-century houses. to accommodate the growing watch busi- Girard-Perregaux is the latest brand to arrive ness that had begun almost 50 years before. at the Geneva boutique, which also brings The boutique provides an elegant and you Gübelin Jewellery, Baume & Mercier, relaxed setting to explore over 30 renowned Breitling, Bvlgari, Glashütte Original, IWC watch brands, including Dior and Schaffhausen, Montblanc, Parmigiani Fleuri- Girard-Perregaux. er, Roger Dubuis, TAG Heuer and Zenith.

Roland Imboden Eric Mayer Director Retail Stores Lucerne Boutique Manager Schweizerhofquai 1, 6004 Lucerne 60, Rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva Tel. +41 41 417 00 10 Tel. +41 22 365 53 80 [email protected] [email protected]

LUCERNE – BASEL SCHWANENPLATZ Gübelin’s Basel boutique, opened in 1972, is The Gübelin boutique Lucerne – Schwanen- located within one of the city’s oldest build- platz is just a few steps from Lucerne’s icon- ings. At the Basel boutique you can find ic landmarks, Chapel Bridge and the Water Gübelin Jewellery, as well as Patek Philippe, Tower. It presents Gübelin Jewellery, along Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc, Parmigiani with watches by selected, prestigious brands Fleurier, Piaget, TAG Heuer and Zenith. like Patek Philippe.

Adrian Kunz Martin Handschin Boutique Manager Boutique Director Schwanenplatz, 6004 Lucerne Freie Strasse 27, 4001 Basel Tel. +41 41 417 00 10 Tel. +41 61 307 56 20 [email protected] [email protected]

102 103 INSIDE GÜBELIN BOUTIQUES BEYOND BOUTIQUES INSIDE GÜBELIN

LUGANO Housed in an early 20th-century palazzo, this boutique boasts a prestigious location “WE PLACE A HIGH VALUE on Piazza Carlo Battaglini. The diverse assortment includes Gübelin Jewel- lery, Patek Philippe, Breitling, Bvlgari, ON COMPETENCE” Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc, Parmigiani Fleurier, Roger Dubuis, TAG Heuer, Ulysse Nardin and Zenith.

Roberto Rota Boutique Manager Via Nassa 27, 6900 Lugano Tel. +41 91 850 54 80 [email protected]

ST. MORITZ The boutique, which first opened in the Surselva House in 1931, is now located in the renowned Badrutt’s Palace Hotel. Discover Gübelin Jewellery and Patek Philippe in St. Moritz.

Tanja Hegglin is Senior Director beauty, knowledge and craftsmanship. with the Lucerne University of Ap- Human Resources at Gübelin. In this We are a large family of gemstone en- plied Sciences and Arts and the ETH interview, she explains why Gübelin is thusiasts. The natural world provides Zurich. We pass on new findings and Joerg U. Fehrmann so attractive for applicants. the inspirations for our jewellery. We Boutique Manager internal know-how in an accurate- also place strong emphasis on com- ly targeted manner via offers such Palace Galerie, Via Serlas 29 Ms Hegglin, what role does Lucerne’s petence, which means profound and 7500 St. Moritz as Lunch & Learn. We have established Tel. +41 81 837 58 70 location play in making Gübelin fundamental knowledge of the areas in e-learning solutions. And we also [email protected] attractive for applicants? which we work. We passionately share offer training courses at our in-house Tanja Hegglin: Our Swiss location is this expertise with our colleagues and Gübelin Academy. certainly an advantage when it comes customers. And we live authenticity: in HONG KONG to attracting skilled employees. In ad- the genuineness of our products and Which professions are represented at Gübelin’s private salon has welcomed dition to Switzerland, Gübelin is also their components, in the advice we of- Gübelin? connoisseurs in its cosy setting since 2013. represented in Hong Kong and New fer our customers and in our attitude Experts in many specialised areas Located in the same building, the Gübelin York. A far greater role is played by the toward them. This is the only way to work under one roof at Gübelin: from Academy is sharing gemmological knowl- facts that Gübelin is a family business create the trust that is indispensable in gemmologists, designers, goldsmiths, edge through courses for professionals, in its sixth generation in the luxury our industry. gemstone setters and watchmakers to collectors and enthusiasts. industry, enjoys an excellent interna- marketing experts, visual merchan- tional reputation and is synonymous How does Gübelin organise in-house disers or providers of other services. with unique values. These are the main knowledge-sharing? That’s why the work is so exciting for Reno Chan reasons why the majority of our appli- We place great importance on con- me personally because I can support Boutique Manager cants want to work for and with us. tinuous further training in order to and accompany all these different Gübelin Private Salon remain a pioneer in a wide range of people in their personal development. Room 3405-3406, Gloucester Tower What special values are these? areas and to face constant change in a The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road All our activities are guided by our positive way. Gübelin and its gemmo- How international is Gübelin? Central, Hong Kong Tel. +852 2264 6898 “Deeply Inspired” philosophy. It aptly logical laboratory stand for excellent Very. Our employees come from 33 dif- [email protected] describes our unique combination of research, and here we also collaborate ferent nations.

104 105 DEEPLY INSPIRED UPCOMING

IMPRINT

Publisher Gübelin AG Maihofstrasse 102 6006 Lucerne Switzerland www.gubelin.com

Managing Editor EXPECT NOTHING LESS Dr. Patrick Pfannkuche Project Coordination Sandra Keller

Concept & Creation Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co. KG, Jarrestr. 2, 22303 Hamburg, Germany www.untitled.eu Management Dr. Christian Jürgens Managing Editor Mathias Menzel Art Director Hanna Tembrink Authors Kyra Brenzinger, Gisbert L. Brunner, Sabine Zwettler Translations and Editing Linguakraft Howard Fine Printing Optimal Media, www.optimal-media.com Editions English, German, French, Italian & Chinese Further information www.gubelin.com

Disclaimer No text or image from this document The House of Gübelin now offers may be used or reproduced without same day personal delivery.* prior permission.

© Gübelin AG 2020

FRESH AS A DEWDROP

Discover a new line from Gübelin Jewellery in our next design is based with a well-known couture house. Learn issue. Inspired by sparkling dewdrops on a delicate flower, more about this collaboration between two Swiss family these creations let the Aurora world blossom in all its businesses that stand for creativity and innovation. Look glory. In keeping with our “Deeply Inspired” philosophy, we forward to a multifaceted bouquet of topics in our up­ have shared the inner life of the gemstone on which the floral coming autumn/winter issue.

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*same day personal delivery within Switzerland for selected products over 5000 CHF, if ordered before 10 a.m.

Gubelin_Personal_Delivery_Campaign_Gubelin_Magazin_215x285.indd 1 06.04.20 07:31 it΄s all about seconds SELF-WINDING MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT HIGHLY RESISTANT CERAMIC WATCH. SWISS MADE. 5-YEAR WARRANTY.