INSPIRED MAJESTIC MAGICAL Why Splendid Feather What Lucerne’s palatial hotels How the time-honoured metier of lends wings to imagination reveal about their former guests feathercraft lives on in Paris EDITORIAL DEEPLY INSPIRED bangle. Under a microscope, the inner world of the gemstone revealed elegant structures reminiscent of feathers. This motif leant wings to our design- ers’ imagination. Together with the goldsmiths and gemstone setters of the Gübelin Jewellery atelier, they transformed this inspiration into unique pieces of jewellery. In addi- tion to the abovementioned bangle, the Splendid Feather line also fea- tures chandelier earrings, necklaces, rings and bangles set with sapphires and diamonds, which we present in this issue’s photo shooting. The feather theme recurs in many different forms in this new edition of “Deeply Inspired”. Sophisticated wristwatches and feathers shine in perfect harmony. We introduce you to some of the best Parisian feather- craft artists. And we explain why a watch’s balance wheel and hair- spring deliver almost unbelievable peak performance every day. Dear Reader, The visual artist Miriam Laura “The ‘feather’ An impressive journey to Sri Lanka, Leonardi was likewise inspired by a motif leant wings the “island of gems”, and the deli- photograph of the inner world of a cate pink and orange tones of the padparadscha sapphire. For her col- to our designers’ rare padparadscha sapphires that laboration with Gübelin Jewellery at imagination.” are mined there, inspired us to create the artgenève art fair, she created a a new world of jewellery: Aurora. Its whole series of individual artworks name recalls the early morning at- that bring the inner structures of this mosphere that bathes each new day precious gemstone to the outside and in gentle light, while simultaneously play with the viewer’s perception. embodying harmony and energy. I would be very pleased if this edition Our Splendid Feather line expands of “Deeply Inspired” lends wings to Aurora by adding further impressive your imagination as well. pieces of jewellery, all of which take the fascinating inner world of a very special padparadscha sapphire as their starting point. This rare 5.60 carat cushion-shape gem was chosen The inner world of this rare padparadscha sapphire reveals fascinating shapes, to play the starring role as the Raphael Gübelin reminiscent of delicate dewdrops glistening on the petals of a lotus blossom in the morning sun. central jewel of an extraordinary President Discover more about the Rising Lotus ring and its inspiration at gubelin.com /aurora. 05 Gübelin – a Swiss, family-owned firm since 1854 Guebelin_Anzeige_Rising_Lotus_Gubelin_Magazin_215x285mm.indd 1 19.02.20 10:48 The Cinema Squad Charlize Theron DEEPLY INSPIRED CONTENTS Brad Pitt Adam Driver 28 PREMIER 44 56 12 12 26 50 WHEN THE SPIRIT FLIES POINTEDLY REGAL LIGHT AS A FEATHER The Splendid Feather line is The marquise it the most sensual Exquisite wristwatches which inspired by feathery structures inside shape that can be given to a gemstone. achieve big performance in the a padparadscha sapphire. smallest volume of space. 28 18 FEATHERY OPULENCE 54 MASTERPIECES Feathers are adornments – and so GREAT ART IN MINIATURE The Splendid Feather bangle and the much more. Discover for yourself The balance and its hairspring set Blushing Wing necklace are expres- in our photo shooting. a watch’s pace of. We explain how sions of superlative craftsmanship. they interact. 44 22 MASTER OF MATERIALS 56 THE ART OF THE CRAFTS Hublot’s exquisite timepieces CREATIVE EVOLUTION Experience how a masterpiece combine creativity, innovation and Discover how the Zenith Manufacture from Gübelin Jewellery is created. technology on the highest level. conquers women’s hearts. Photos: Stephan Glathe (1), Hublot (1), Zenith (1) 06 BR20484_Cinema Casual Premier_215x285_Gubelin_R132.indd 1 24/02/2020 08:35 DEEPLY INSPIRED CONTENTS 62 82 88 74 62 82 103 PLAY OF COLOURS OPPOSITES ATTRACT BEYOND BOUTIQUES Natural beauty and Visual artist Miriam L. Leonardi Learn why working for Gübelin inspiring technology celebrate and her artwork is so attractive. a delightful liaison. “Dial M for Slippers”. 72 88 THE STYLE OF MY LIFE METAMORPHOSIS OF See what Akris’s Albert Kriemler has THE FEATHER influenced and inspired. A time-honoured handicraft lives on in Paris. 74 MAJESTIC 94 Discover what Lucerne’s palatial MATTER OF TRUST TONDA Calendrier Annuel hotels tell about the city’s past Edigem buys, sells and appraises Manufactured entirely in Switzerland parmigiani.com and its visitors. jewels with a history. Photos: Attila Hartwig (1), Library of Congress/Wikimedia (1), Anne Combaz (1) 08 PAR.20.20099_Inserat_Magazin_215x285_RZ.indd 1 13.02.20 16:01 Rosy dawn endows the imagination with wings – and boundless inspiration. Photo: iStockphoto (1) INSIDE JEWELLERY INSPIRATION I NSPI R E D IMAGINATION The Splendid Feather line expands the recently launched Aurora world with additional fascinating pieces of jewellery inspired by the inner microcosm of an extraordinary padparadscha sapphire and the bird life of Sri Lanka. A bird in Sri Lanka spreads its elegant rare 5.60-carat padparadscha sap- feathered species of birds are found plumage like a fan before taking flight phire revealed characteristic shapes here, and approximately 30 of these in the morning sunlight. Poetic imag- and structures dating from the epoch species live nowhere else in the world es like this one appear in the minds’ when the gem was formed. These except on this enchanted island. eyes of the designers at Gübelin Jew- fine patterns and lines resemble the The design of the Splendid ellery when they peer through a spe- veins in a bird’s plumes. Gemstone Feather jewellery – which includes cial microscope to view the inner experts accordingly refer to them as bracelets, necklaces, rings and ear- world of a gem. The designers’ crea- “feathers”. These gemmy feathers rings – clearly alludes to this. Each tions are inspired by the structures can also be interpreted as a symbol lavish piece has curved, dia- they discover inside the precious of the stone’s country of origin be- mond-studded feather branches, gems. These tiny but characteristic cause Sri Lanka, the legendary “Is- which visually unite in some crea- features provide clues about the ori- land of Gemstones” in the Indian tions to form wings accentuated by gin and genesis of the gemstones. Ocean, is not only a paradise for coloured sapphires in diverse shapes The photomicrograph of a In the case of the new Splendid gemmologists, but also for ornithol- and cuts. The Splendid Feather line padparadscha sapphire reveals fascinating Feather line, elegant forms inside a ogists. Hundreds of magnificently expands on the Aurora world of jew- structures reminiscent of feathers. 12 INSPIRATION INSIDE JEWELLERY The impressive bird life of Sri Lanka inspired the Splendid Feather line. ellery, which was newly introduced lutionary history. Most scientists ancestors of birds, and some of those last year with the masterpiece Rising agree nowadays that feathers origi- ancient reptiles had already devel- Lotus. The name Aurora recalls the nally served two other purposes: as oped coats of colourful plumage to gentle light of morning and sunrise, an insulating layer and to make a attract mates. This can still be seen as well as the unique orange-pink col- favourable impression, preferably in today’s bird world, e.g. in the our of the padparadscha sapphire. on a creature of the same species but handsome plumage of a peacock or Sapphires occur in every colour the opposite sex. Dinosaurs are the rooster. Interestingly, it always seems of the rainbow, but connoisseurs ex- clusively reserve a separate name – padparadscha – for this highly desir- able variety with delicate orange-pink GEMSTONE ACQUISITION: or pink-orange hues. The character- STRICTEST QUALITY CRITERIA istic colouration recalls a blossom of the lotus, a plant which is typical of Before Gübelin’s designers can peer into a gemstone, the experienced gemstone Sri Lanka. The name “padmaraga”, buyers of Gübelin Jewellery have scrutinised the rarest coloured gemstones around Inspired by the feathery structures which means “lotus-coloured” in the globe to find the rarest coloured gemstones available on the worldwide market. inside the gem, the designers of Singhalese, likewise alludes to this Buying coloured gems such as padparadscha sapphires in the appropriate quantity Gübelin Jewellery developed the resemblance. and quality is a lengthy process that requires experience, patience and the best characteristic wing-like shapes of Feathers have inspired people’s contacts. With Aurora, Gübelin Jewellery presents a world of jewellery inspired by the the pieces of jewellery. imaginations for centuries. Many rarest variety of sapphire. Aurora also confronts professional gem buyers with a big cultures interpret feathers as sym- challenge: i.e. to purchase not just one or two stones, but numerous exquisite padpa- bols of beauty, freedom and spirit- radschas. Limited resources are a major reason why Gübelin Jewellery is probably the uality. But their grace, delicacy and only jewellery brand to dedicate an entire collection to this rare gemstone. The pad- functional perfection, as well as their paradschas that Gübelin Jewellery uses come from Sri Lanka and Madagascar. On often fascinating colours and pat- the basis of its strict criteria, the Gübelin Gem Lab could classify only about half of terns, harbour an enigma: Why do the approximately 300 pink-orange and orange-pink sapphires that came to Lucerne feathers exist at all? Birds use feath- for the Aurora jewellery world as genuine padparadschas. Ultimately, only ten percent ers to fly, but flight was only the of the stones fulfilled the high standards of quality upheld by Gübelin Jewellery and Foto: iStockphoto (1) most recent step in the feather’s evo- were selected to become part of the Splendid Feather line. 15 INSIDE JEWELLERY INSPIRATION We craft watches not to meet expectations, but to surpass them.