JapaneseJapaneseSociety Society for thetheScience Science of Design

Otigtual pmper

Received March 26,2001,Accepted April 10, 2002

RETROSPECTIVE SURVEY ON MALAY TRADITIONAL CLOTHES Types of Clothes used in Societal Activities by Malay Females

Nazlina SHAARI", Fumio TERAUCHI"",Mitsunori KUBO"", Hiroyuki AOKI**

" Graduate School ofScience and 7;echnology, C7;iba Uhiversity, }kyoi-cho 1-33 inage-ku, Cliiba 263-852Z Jopan " Fbculty ofEhgineering, C7iibaUitiversic}1 }byoi-cho 1-33 inage-ku, Chiba 263-8521 Japan

Abstract: Clothing refiects the status of the wearer, From the historical point of view, the appearance of clothing is dealing a lot with the textiles. Exquisite rich textures or woven with gold and silveT threads for

royalty and the rich, The functional and long-lasting fabrics were for the working class. In the

post-modem era, the traditional clothing had reformed aggressively in the Malay culture. The strong infiuence and adaptation from Western had given them a different kind of social documentation in

dressing the traditional clothes. Presented here is the attire that has stood the test of time- Bciju Kitrung

and Boju Klebaya. Late]y, young and old females wear these typed of clothes as daily wear. These

researches were aimed to identify the common typed of traditional clothes worn among the females during working. It is also to identify females view on clothes as p}easurable state or desire state. These

researches were evaluated by using various analyses such as dernographic analysis and SD methods in

order to obtain the results. They are two categories of clothes being identified as Traditional Typed and

Neo- Traditional Typed. It showed the glimpse of both clothes were run across social borders of

Malaysian doing their everyday things. Results demonstrated that females were tied with performing

cultural identity and the transformation of clothing va]ues for their fashion trends.

Kley wortts: TYaditionatclothes Socialactivities 1)'aditional mpe, IVbo-traditionat cytpe

1.Introduction These sea-tribes, referred to by the Portuguese historian The Ma)ays are the race of who inhabit the Malay people Godinho de Eredia as Satetes played a major part in the Peninsula is today Peninsular Malaysia) and (what portions making of the great Malaya [1]. of adjacent islands of Southeast Asia, including the east The present-day Malays of the Peninsu]a and coasts of

coast of the coast of Borneo, and smaller is!ands SumatTa, the Malay Archipelago are described anthropologically as that lie between these areas, deutero-Malays and are the descendants of the tribal proto

Ethnically, the Malays are a rnixed Tace followed the Malays mixed with Indian, Thai, Arabs and Chinese and

Muslim faith. Such varied backgrounds have produced from these phase, a mix social and cultural being developed mixed customs and manners, whilst their strong religious and could been seen clearly in their art and crafi especially

faith has provided a unifying force for a distinct Malay in clothing.

culture. Anthropologists trace the home of the Malay race The population of Malay peop]e in Malaysia is 59,9%. to the northwestern of Yunnan, in China and these part The rest are Chinese people 29,9%, India and others 10,2%. tribal or Jakun, were a seafaring proto-Malays, people. The figures above showed the percentage of Malay

They were once a of coastal BoTneo who probably peop]e popu]ation who lived in Malaysia. The Malays, long linked expanded into SumatTa and the Malay Peninsula as a result to the land as Bumiputra generally work in the agricultural of their trading and seafaring way of life. and industrial area. The Malay is mainly a rural people,

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living in viltas,es rather than towns. where Chin¢ s ¢ , Indians, traditional clo{hes in Malay culture. These traditional

Traditional typed and and other groups predominate. clothes had been divided into Mostty the women are working as a house- wife and Neo-Traditional typed. also involved in handicrafts work. The percentage of Task 3- Socio-cultural review of the social

women working had increased from 42.2% to 46.t% in environment and common activities involved that change

1995 where they involved in many section of work. Malay the pattern styte of wearing both traditional cLothes among

women aLso involyed in agricultural sector especiat]y in the females. The data had being gathered from 105 females

rubber estates and work in the paddy field area and also in through interviews and questionnaires, - the industrial area. With the development of new Task 4 Semantics synthetics that categorized Btiju

technologies and the increasing of industrlal sector, a lot of Kurung and Bcu'tt Kehaya visual appearance by SD methods

MaLay people started working in this area. They have expressed by females.

moyed to town area where a lot of opportunity for them to

develop their knowledge and living. 3. Survey of Matay Ctothes

3.1 Traditional Ctothes

2.Methodo)ogy Traditional cLothes can be explained as clothes that had

A qualitative method was adapted in this researched, a historical or cuLtural background from certaln group of synthetics are derived from primary and secondary data. peoples or in the society. Each costume has different The holistic ana]yses from the data gathered was divided approach and meaning depending on their environment,

into tasks: beliefs, myth or reLigion.

Task 1- A historical review of Boju Kurung and Boju The invention of taking fibers from plant and develop it has Kebaya transformation involved from the past until the as a yarn and weave it and become as a piece of fabrics present, i.e., 16ih Century clothing style, types of fabrics been practiced thousand years ago before century. These

being used, fabrics were used as a protection to the body towards the

Task 2 - A formal review of the traditional clothes weather or any harmful things. Fabrics are not seen as mere

being identified. From the survey resource input, Btiju items of c)othing only, but as essential equipment in

Karung and Boju Kbbaya were two common types of ceremonies performed to invoked agricultural and human

ie'indep,e,,dient vaiNpasnpal,ornc":"ndCcrfint"Niltofi Ysa4taStS' tw

-.･L･eviiii,1ii,/llil/li.il'liii/iililill " ' :EL I,l･ss･ttg.S'6

ut

i

ico5rAtrivaiofChinesettathere maww 'lrrt?l"'ds' F. ,Lbe}os

Figurel. The chronology of c]othing worn by Malay fernales

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fertility. They also offer magicai protection to wearers at Midclle East and the Portuguese in Ma]acca ln the 16th or ti mes of transition and dangen 17'h century, and poputarized by Chinese Peranakan. A

Costume or clothes communicates ordinary information two-piece costume, the bciju kurung and keha),a comprise a about the ethnic identity, social status and gender, but more tunic top (btv'u) and a sarong (kain or long skirO. The long importantLy some people belief that it expresses the flowing tunic-coat (kebaya) or a tunic (bciju belah) which relationship between the wearer to supernatural and was divided in front, put on like a coat and fastened with envLronmenL brooches, which were the part of the wearer's jewelry, In In framing the body, clothes contributes to the symbolic pattern construction, these two clothes had a basic pattern

transtation of materiality into cultural images or signifiers. consist of rectangular shapes, square shapes, an opening

Clothes, as a pervasive vehicte for the fabrication of front or circle for the colLar. Each part has been given a culturally viable subjects, is in position to increase our name like, pesak, kikik or pesak gantttng, back and front sensitiyity to the gap between the putatively natural body openlng.

and its represented, artificiai counterparts; to the body's The two panels that attached to the both side of the translation by means of mechanisms of rhetorical dress called pesak and kikik were designed in order to make

displacement; and to structures of visually inserted between the dress more loose and easy to wear. the observer and the representation [2]. The ambiguous Normally these two costume is usuatly made of cotton, siLk,

alliance between body and clothes couLd be seen as one of brocade or voi!e. In sixteenth century unti] the eighteenth

the most inveterate incarnations of {he fusion of the natural century under the Colonial Period, the movement of

and constructed. Traditionally clothlng has been and will wearing culture had influence the pattern cut of Malay be continue to be important to human beings clothing plays clothes. A new styte soon emerged in 1512-1930, where the

a subtte yet important part of peoples ]ives from birth to influence of Western culture has strongly changed the

death reflecting tastes. dreams and histories. appearance of traditional clothes that is tight and following

3.1.1 Bag'u Kurung and Boju Kbbaya the shape of the body. The new appearance of tailoring

Among the Malay people the Boju Kurung is one of the these traditional clothes makes the clothes became popular traditionat clothes that being used as daily wear. The Btiju until now.

K"rung is the female garment tailored to meet the

requirements of the Islamic dress code, This clothing had 4. Morphology of Kitrung and Kebaya in Societa1

being identified, that it had strongly infiuenced by the Activity

Middle East costume called gatabiah. It is described as the 4.1Ctothes Represent Status and Identity long collarless tunic up to ankle with an underarm panel or Boju Kurung and Boju Kebaya had been recognized as

gusset worn overa loose long skirt called sarong. Like the the most outstandlng material culture among the Malays. In

Malay clothing also has the influence of Arabic clothing some ways, these clothes are like rooms or containers that

where the clothes has being defined as a long collarless cover the female body and appear to communicate the

tunic garment. The clothes were design loosely, like the gender of that particular person, Arabic costume because of the influence of Islam in the There are three keys in which clothing has effect as

`fashion' 15th century which is brought by the Arabic traders, In its material culture in Malay society. First, as that

originals form, the feminine boju kurung had no opening in link between the shapes, look of the clothes and a temporal front was and pulled over the head like a ]oose jersey. In sequence of change in those forms, Much of the attention 1920, the tunic is shortened to the knees, The Iunic is paid to traditional clothes in social and historical discussion normally tailored from ptain cotton or silk cloth and has focused on fhshion because of its potentiat to signify matched with a silk and gold songket sarong. The sarong social distinctions of age, gender and status [3]. Second, was secured around the waist with multiple pleats in a style derive from the signifying function of fashion, ls the

known as ikatan ombak beralun, capability of clothing to communicate between members of

The most widely used traditiona] clothes for wornen the culture through forms, colors and types of fabrics. The and man in daily used or during ceremony among the third key is thal a single garment may be significant Malay people are the sarong and boju. The sarvng is a because of the relationship between its particular material

broad band of cloth sewn into a tube that usually fa11s from form and the body form that wears it.

the waist. Normally the clothes for the female were btiju In the olden days, Malay women were dressed only in a

Kurung or boju Kebaya, The kebaya were adopted from the sarong secured around their chest, a style known as

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bei'kembctn. The fabric called sarong was used {o ma.ke began to arrive from India and Europe. Variety of fabrics

kemhan. from machine woven, light weight silk brocades, taffeta.

The kemban can be described as a piece of rectangular chiffon and lace were increasingly imported. Lately, the fabrics were wrapped around from the chest part down to changes and trends of mix materials became popular

the knees, After the arrival of Islam brought by the Arabic among the females in developing new ideas in traditionaT

traders, the pattern of wearing cLothes had changed. clothes. The materials were setected according to functions. Malay women began to adhere to the Islamic tenets on As for the coLors are usually seen to fa11 into two main

dress. The daily users of clothing were the cotton sarong categories- light and dark. The in-between shades are

and the boju. referred to interms of the naturat environment, Some of the `skin Whereas for the ceremony the fabric that was used were, traditional colors are kutit tangsat or of the lansium

`ripe rans.e of woven fabric from songket (cotton or silk with fruit'for beige, pinang masak or areca nut' fbr brlght

`blood gold thread) or brocade. The sarr)ng is unsewn rectangular orange, darah ihan or of the fish' for dark red,

`banana textile, approximately two and a half meters long and it is pttct{k pisang or ]eaf shoot' for pale green, indigo then wrapped around the hips. Recently. the plain colored so forth. The ordinary people are not atlowed to wear cotton or silk plaid and songket were used. The sarong is yellow colors or golden yellow because this cohors being

the oLdest style attire in the region. The sarong has been used for Royal family.

widely used in variety of ways since the slxteenth century The patterns of the traditional fabrics also give such as a bathing cloth, head wrapping as a protection from significance of the appearance of the Malay status. A the sun, a carrying bag CtLtroshiki), a cradle and also as a variety of motifs and patterns are infiuence by natural shroud [4]. The woven plaid fabrics were normally being environment. The simple pattern is normalty worn by used as daily wear since this kind of fabric i's much cooler ordinary people or middle class people but for the intricate

and not heavily design like songket. patterns and the heavy woven fabrics decorated with gold

In the fourteenth until sixteenth century, the Malay threads is worn by the Royal families [5]. .,

traditional clothes can be divided into two categories Previous patterns and materials seems all adopterf and according to the hierarchy. First, the ordinary people and imitated from the natures. Commonly, the flora, fauna or second the upper-class people. The ordinary people geometrical form were popular and being selected as fabric

normally wear traditional clothes from cotton fabrics but designs.

for the higher level, the fabrics from songket or brocade 4.2.3Current Materials

were worn. The over come of synthetics fibers has changed the

characteristic of lts pattern construction and the physical 5,ty,?a.f}y"`esapproach of Btu'u Kurung and Boju Kehaya clothes. The wa,ttt,,i/astk./W,<"u";.ge/ttlas,wali/I"g/:/i."refinement and reincarnation of cheaper fabrics and

attractive designs and colors from synthetics fabric had Working class influence the visual appearance of both c]othes. Sometimes

the selections of improper fabrics that apply to the Ordinary traditional clothes really affect the performance of the people clothing and the uncomfbrtable feeling when wearing it.

Figure 2. Status in Malay Culture which being practiced in Lately, the selective materials were carefu11y chosen the 14th- 16th Century. according to functions purposes, A lot of materials from cotton and synthetics being used for daily purposes and 42.2T}rpes of Materials rich and expensive materials from silks, brocade and others Normally in the Malay customs, the lower class people luxurious materials were only worn during functions. In are not allowed to wear certain fabrics and color because of these two different situations, females became more the diflerence appearance of status. For the lower class conscious about the situation that dealing much with their people or ordinary people will only wear the sarong from clothes, In the case ofc]ass cultures that belng practiced in natural materials such as cotton, pineapple fibers, banana the past decades is becoming less important in the fibers, organdie, batik and others. As for the royal families formation of a person's selfiimage. The class does not normally silks fabric, chintz and brocade had being used as significantly affect the whole host of attitudes on social clothes. issues, ya]ues and lifestyle tastes, and communal With the passage of time, cheaper imported fabrics

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"rab1e 1.Classification of fabric types among the Matay people inlsth Century.

paerqtiwh'S,//･//･,/･'iii//,;･,1{Ee!.,rics/･,NqtnCs,/.k/,i,/li///:.,//･iSE&itk,j"M'"X'･E/i'Ski"il'･11"'i',･,l'i'/1/-m･ili,,gQ!.ti, ,k,t"'l'iil-･1///'g･."',T.tt'-･iStc,ts;,/il.,.,tt' ,tij.t iats. ..･ ...Types bS elglpt#g ',I

Upperctass Songket Designed with CoLorfuL,yelLow, Silk, B rocade SarongBcu'u

floraand fauna White Cotton Kurung

Beu'u kebaya

Middle class Songket Flora fauna Indigo,green.etc Cotton, Silk SarongBoju

Tenun Plaids Brocade kurung

Boju Kebaya

Lower ctass Tenun PlaidsSimple lndigo, green, red, Cotton KembanSarongBoju

pattern ect. (except yellow Other: natural

or whi te) fibers Kurung

Boju kebaya

attachment and socializing [6].Even though class culture activities (35.2%-45.2%). Each female's have at least the

described the structures and boundaries ofcertain groupof average of5 to 20 pieces of Bcu'" Kurung or Boju Kebaya. peopte, but the influence and variations in clothing From the research, the used of traditional clothes were are subtle invention indicators of how people changed, not only used as casual or formal wear but also being used think and moved nround in different types of societies and as a school unifbrms, work wear and occupy in their leisure

`creates' different position in societies are actua]ly experience. time. Here, the traditional clothes as artifacts 4.3. Traditionat C]othes in Current Soc;al Activity behavior through their capacity to imposed social identities.

Traditional `favorite' clothes had been used widely among the Peopte attribute to their clothes the capacity to

Malay females in many types of daily activities. Through influence the ways they expresses themselves and interact the findings, five categories of activities were being with others about their culture [7] identified as the highly used of traditional clothes of Boju

Kurung and Btiju Klebaya. There are selected from 5. Common TYpes of Ii-aditional Clothes Used in

and out-door activities that involved in-door housework, Present Days. ornce work, leisure. festival and other cultured activities. Recently, the traditional clothes had been appreciated by From the observation made, about 84,7% of Malay females the new gencrations. Through out the research and were wearing Boju Kurung and Boja Klebaya in different empirica] studies, it was found that these clothes were being

style of pattern and materials according to their taste and widely used as common wear. In other words this attire trend. gives the impact of the cultural representation of the Malay Demographic analysis had been made and justified that society itself, each at the age 21 femates of years old until 30 years old From the daia input gain from individual interviews and were the highly user of these traditional clothes in their through questionnaires, 105 females were participated in

daily wear for orace work (24.5%-48.5%) and for festival Ihis evaluation. The ranged of age were from below 20, 21

Eeb,, 2e tsmISIle-pm'i eelevr 2025S2exIStslots5ts,ert!"ttts-.te-..-.

41-50 21-30 'tt't/it1.1Nfii'i'/r'/L･til/l;:;･g;}x 41-50 21-30

al-4o

31-40

Figure 3: Percentage ef Boj" Kurung bein used Figure 4: Percentage of Bnjtt Kebaya bein used daily by different age gro-psg daily by difftrent age groupsg

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old -30 old, 3l years years years old until 40 yearso]d,･41 Fifth: Bojtt Kehaya Modern. [n the early l960's until the old unti] 50 and above. years present of twenty first century, theie are two Iypes that are The result from demographic test being identified that are commonly used as popular wear. there are two types of traditional clothes being wearing as The long types of modern Kebaya were designed daily wear, There are two types ofclothes that still remain without the pesak or kikik. It is consist of darts to make the as the most popular attire among the Malay females were dress shapely. The collar appeared to be in variety ofshapes Btu'" Kurung and Bciju Keba}ra. These basic clothes could and fasten with either buttons or brooches, be found in diffierent categories of appearances. The short style of Klabaya modern had been identified to As shown in figure 3 and figure 4, the daily clothing be popular in the 1960's unti] 1990's. This kebaya were also could be identified used by the females were Boj" Kurung designed fo1]owing the body shape and the materials from compared with Bciju KkbaJ,a. It had been recognized that lace, silk and transparent fabrics such as silk organza, mostly the females' age between 21 untit 40 tend to wear chiffon, voile, kasa rubia became a trend among the both of the traditional clothes as their daily wear. females. Some reforrnations were made especiaLly at the 5.2 Traditional Typed and Neo- Traditional Typed collar and also the sleeves. These value added gives the S.2.1 Boju Kictrung strong impact and siLhouettes of traditional clothes being First: Bcu'u Kurung consist of two- piece of clothes that is tiked among the females nowadays. the upper part is the dress and the long skirt. The Boju 5.3 Clothes reformation in Malay society Kurung Lnma which are still maintained the basic sty]e of 5.3.1 Cultural pattern cut consist ofpesak, kikik and round collar with the preservation Through out the research, it has been found that both hand stitch finishing calLed juhit tutang betut or simo around the collar. Bciju Kurung had been used in all districts traditional clothes of Boj" K"rung and Boju Kebaya were

being used as a of representing cultural in Malaysia and had been given different names such as part identityof the

Btiju KLtrung Johor that appeared in high neck, Boj" Malay people, About 105 fema]es being interviewed and

Kurung Pahang that are designed with long kikik and loose 85,3% of them clarified that these clothes were part of blouse,Second: preserving cultural identity for young and ord Malay Boju Klirung Modern that is much shorter, some generation. Yet these traditional clothes had been identified

of it still loose type of clothes with pesak and kikik cal]ed as natignal dress codes in Malaysia. Boju Kitrung Kledah. Some of it was made to foIlow the It has become a trend in clothing even though Western

shape of the body and appear with different types of collar, apparet were much more fashionable, sty]ish and easy to

Other elements of stitches such as ernbroidery and beads buy everywhere.

were being value added to give more aesthetics to the In representing cultural identity, the growing concern on

clothes. the cLothes, own adaptation and innevation to rnake these These typed of traditional clothes were commonly clothes fu]ly used and appreciated by all generations. The used during working or other formal functions that the consumption of culturaL goods, such as making traditional designed seems replacing the Western suits. clothes as fashionable clothing, performs an increasingly 5.2.2 Baju Kebaya important role in the construction of personal identity and Third: Bciju Kebaya labuh, which isalso maintained the also emphasizes the diversity of lifestyles into people in typical type of pattern cut. It appears to be in loose shape, contemporary societies [8],

consist ofpesak, kikik and the front opening collar which is In figure 5, the graph shows the average of females' then fasten with three brooches. consideration of both traditional clothes as a part of cultural

Fourth: Bciju Kkbaya Pendek whlch are influenced by the representationmaterial.

Chinese traders in 1405 who arrived in MaLacca, These

typed of clothes were well known among the Chinese 6. Postmodern appeal ef Malay clothes: Neo- Peranakan who (Chinesepeople are married with the local Traditional Malay people). Most of the c]othes were short up to the Current appearance of Boju Klirung and Boju Kebaya buttock levet, without or kikik that is more fitted pesak coupled with the traditional appeal is hamming home and fOllowing the shape of the female body and were fu11y work wear images. As the result of cross-fertilization and embroidered around the collar and attached with brooches. authentic work wear among the Malay peop]e expand a

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broad image to the culture. Bcu'tt Kurttng and Bcu'tt Keha.va clothes were a trend among the Matay females and also had been growing drastically and became a popular fashion non-Malays. among the Malay females and other races too. It had been

"TraditionaL" identified as ctothes but with the touch of 7. Females view on Wearing Traditional Clothes "New" taste, On the other hand, women's `Human of Ma]ay The theme of Oriented Design' had been concluded that these clothes as a function of reproductive strongly influenced the appearance of clothes. The c]othes strategy in demonstrating culture identity. or are not garment on]y the product to protect human body, The appearance of machine-made clothing, ctothes `specialization' were but as a needs for a comfort product to wear generally included among a person's most valuable [10]. The tradttionat possesstons. c]othes in Matay societies In 1960's and t980 most of the traditionat ctothes were

began to resembLe from shapeless were garment repLaced appeared to be more fit and fbt]owing the body. In those by tai]ored, fitted whose form were garment generally years, the females were aggressively adopt the Western influenced by fashions originating by the upper classes ]ook in clothing which they found more outstanding and from the Western [9]. sexy. It is believed to be influence by the reincarnation of

In appeal, the postmodern featuresof the traditionaL Western Corset trend among the fashion designers and clothes rapidLy changed with the evolution of fashion trend youngsters. In the 20th Century until the present years, the and the emergence of new materials, The Bciju Kurung and choices of wearing attitude had changed among the Malay

Boju Kebaya had value added to "back been given certain partof females. The clothes designed to the roots" were

the such as coliar, sleeve and the long pattern skirt inorder become popu]ar since this give better image of feminine to make the wearer appear to be more stylish and fo11owing among the Malay females. The creativity of mixed and the trend. matched the materials and value added the clothes. makes it Expressingwarmth human qf beings with crcij?- work appear to be simpLe but elegance that can be seen as casual recently, the materials added foshion- by handwQrk with or forma] dress [11]. More choices of materials from soft to

accessories exhibiting decorative effects such as embroidery, crispy typed had changed the pattern cut of the traditional beads, spangles and lace were used these traditional for clothes and the wearing styles. Females tend to develop clothes, Styles in the 1980's and 1990's were strongly their own concept in finding the clothes styles that give influenced by the Western that appeared pattern to be more better comforts during the day and appearances. Based on feminineness image as they have flowlng drapes and the subject ratings, the individual preferences in the aspect elegance. Materials silky luster "comfort" "pleasure" from and silky polyester of and state being concerned since fabrics were among the popular young fetha]esages 21-48 they found that these traditionat pattern- cut were old who favor the casual image years of traditionalclothes comfortable to be used as daily wear in Malaysia climate. but with elegance appearance. Recently, Boju Kurung and From the overall interview their requirement is that the

Bciju Kebaya were arnong working popular the class clothes should be comfortable in their daily work, easy to

females as it had been considered and fitthe purposeand move and easy to take care. It had been agree that the function after work, These clothes were suitable to use after females were highly desired the clothes that had less time work especially fdr working females who still feel taken when deals with taking care of the materials, Overall comfortable for leisure activities. It seem that these two results gained from the interviews, 67.8% are concern about

Tab]e 2. Classification of clothing period used by females '1cav t･ Hrntjst1 ±ridR"il. [tailyFkTrrel FdstiulCMhrdLcisurefererrrrtid t.

1 ofcahas SAO1staTicRetiod1su, ICVIADC)17th-1su1An ,A: 'eept km oee-fuoeooo o p.mA dee/es,･e l S.b..t."t..eoooooo "X.B)ts ftskptA sk wwpmagmazzfe'-pm･-en5% ./. uu-sknt 'ww.infidnS"Uwh.....t.ta...aj.･pm. tww. . tumu, lt.,..ntimF.h･,-..,,･,･--･･m,FeA .mmaw'ew .･'-' ,rksil'pt 51,em u-rrtm -, "' ' .., en-,ptcve.za.m.."auinww"ww"di' 5i3?k u-tu-stutt .t Att/r.･/pm.- ･ W .ma...wwsume/pm,tntt".pt.mi 76s)S 'en37ts 'uITtm1 A･su eesc.m.mprif#ue#Wnwtnv ."' ee t.et . .tnYtt4as% ft I... wwlpm,mupm- ts,1.or)G O Nbtes: Vlery qften Nbtatatl whSometimesA open

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Percentage o%20% 40% 60%ee%100%

1234567

comfertabtesmsrmcrve p Belew 20 ! /lts(x

Feelingot easycere Wearing su1colh K x 21-30 gen ±le ta j // sott v i ' neet a...

+ight Age 31-4e tt.t.ttte Ceot e" Considerationof I Dny & Climate 'i' Sweating 9.I(\]

4i.50 lndoor

Natural

Leisure

Commen Situation lnterasting

50 & above Involved WendngFanTva1Norme+

.tN -) r" ew Kurungew Kebaya tttttlttttttttttttttttttt/t. -+ BijuKebaya

BajuKurung

Figure 5: Average of traditional ctothes as percentage part Figure 6. Attributes of clothing appearance for both clothes of cu]tural preservation obseryed by ferrvales in SD scale

females to be matched for their and physiological clothes that could give them comfort. They want to feel physical use of as a criterion of clothes comfortable in their daily work, easy to move and easy to needs, The preferences `attitude based on molded by take care. It had been agree that the females were highly performance had been

factors. It sugges{ed desired the clothes that had less time taken when deals with fashion'or based on physiological is

choices based taking care of the materiats. herethat preferencescould be regarded as

upen or an individual rationale of the needs in It had been agreed that the females were highly desired practice of climate the clothes that had ress time taken when deals with taking clothing performance. The domain involvement

makes the Malay females much care of the materials. Means that, in Malaysia condition the and working situation put effort and consideration on materials and cut of their females prefers fabrics that is cheap, easy to take care after pattern

comfort and appearance many times ofcleaning and durable. Recently, females were clothes that could give good [121, `comfortable' The state in relation to the individual's buying mix materials such as mixed polyester as it appears is based on their surrounding environment to be matched for their physical and physlological needs. preferences [13]. It is sometimes dithcult to trace a requirement for Most of fabrics from cotton and silks also became popular proper as it is very subjective evaluation among the females. Their choices were based on their these traditionalclothes,

when dealing with females' needs. Each individuals' preferences of purposes and funetions. It is physiological subjects had differentviesy when dealingwith clothes, as it found based on their personal physical and physiological is appear to be second skin to human. Nearly all these desire in clothing a part of their second skin that

communicate with the environment. research had been specifically questions the traditional

clothes in dally typed and typed used for It seems that recently the development of traditional preferences formal

social wearing clothes had influenced the wearing attitude among the their activities based on their experience

132BULLETtN OF JSSD Vol.4S No,6 2e02 THEsclENcEoFDESIGN

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these traditional clothes. distribute the identity of Malay culture to other ethnic

However, the results from these evaluations showed a groups too. The main findings in this research can be

clear preference for the traditional clothing. Based on the summarized as follows: `pleasurable `desired state' and state' the assurnption is both 1. The fernales used a lot of Bay-u Kiirung as their

clothes form and climate would stimulate the measurement daily wear according to the pattern style which is

for the individual needs, It is stressed out to identify clear]y much more loose.

were explains that appears to on She proper considerations that involved in 2, BojuKbbaya it be popular

traditional clothing. used as formal wear.

In Figure 6, it shows the attributes found the overall 3. rtaditional clothes were worn as a part of

individual appreciations in Malay traditional clothes. This preserving the culture and social values,

may explained the desire needs of females in traditional 4. The types of traditional clothes were strongly clothes, It had been stress here that the states of soft, easy demand on comfortable and pleasure state.

`light' care, easy move and (weight) of fabrics or garment Throughout this research it may explained that each

were needed in this evaluation. Ranking values could be females were strongly desire a wearable product that ¢ ould

seen clearly in both traditional clothes. The higher values give them pleasure and comfort with physical and visual were appearing much on Boju Kitrung compared with Boju expressions. The most probable interpretation of the finding

Kbbaya. The overa}1 results gained from 105 females were that softer fabrics and appropriate pattern cut for the

resulted that Boju KLtrung were highly worn among all ages. traditional clothes was preferred.

Next category of Feeling of Wearing- the highly desired In traditional clothes, there are two types of situation

weTe the lightweight typed of clothes. It means that the could be categorized as daily typed and formal typed. For

materials llsed in both traditional clothes should be light in these different situation, the appearance for these traditional

weight and not gaudy or heavy typed, In Climate clothing were changed in terms of fabrics used pattern categories- the preferences were tota)ly different in both applications. Simple and loose styles of traditional clothes

c)othes that explains their entire needs were depends on being used as daily and more elegant and couture typed of

their daily surrounding environment. All subjects were pattern were cbosen for formal,

found less consider about climate. In Situation category- it The understanding gained from these effbrts should

is described as pleasurable state by individuals where these ultimately facilitate the development of better requirement

two c]othes were used in different typed of activities. It had for the clothes and its visual representations,

been identified that Boju Klebaya had been used in many

situations for formal typed of activities, Overall p]easure Reference:

states were expressed in different situations selected by 1. Chin, Lucas. SZirawak Culturat Legacy: A Living

females. Boju Kltrung had found to be used in almost every IYadition, Society Atelier Sarawak, 1991:113-117. and bos situation selected by subjects. 2. Barthes, R. Ihe Fbshioning System, Berkeley Ange!es: University of California Press, 1990: 10-15. 8.Conclllsion 3. Barthes, R. Ihe FZishioning System, Berkeley and tos Press,1990:25. Changes of clothing and the discourses surrounding Angeles: University of California

clothing indicate shifts in social relationships between 4. Dormer, Peter, 71te Culture of Crdi, Manchester Uni.

different social groups that represent themselves in different Press, UK, 1997: 34, ways in pub]ic space [14]. In Malay culture, clothing was 5. Perbadanan Kemajuan Kraftangan Malaysia,A

used as a form of social approach in representing culture Malaysian 7buch- ll]xtile for the IVbw Miltineum,

identity and social values. Perbadanan Kemajuan Kraftangan Malaysia, 1999:

The indications of cultural practices that include both 81-85. knowledge of cultuTe and the sense of physiological desire 6, Lennon, S,J. Efilects of ClothingAttractiveness on 1990: state that represent in both traditional clothes elucidate the Perceptions. Home Economics Research Journal,

significant of cutture sensibility among the Malay females, 18,303-310. Hutton, fushion, Thus the strong infiuence of work place environment that 7, Kaiser, S.B., Nagasawa, R.H., & S.S. reformed the traditional clothes as a uniform oT dress code Postmodern ist and Personat .,ippearance: Symbotic interaction ls formulation, Symbolic lnteraction, 1995:

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14(2), 165-185, 8. A. Dickson. Socially Responsible Behavior. Journal of Fbshion Mbrketing and Mbnagement, 1996: NQ)], 1,

No.1, .50-59.

9. Damhorst, Mary Lynn, the Meaning ofDress, Fairchild Publication, USA, 1998: 10-12.

10. Cava]laro, Dani and WaTwick, Alexander. fushioning ･ the Frame: Boundaries Dress and the Bocly, Biddles Ltd. UK, 1998: 23-25,

11. Dant, Tim, Mbterial Cutture in the Sbciat Jibrtd:

lhlues Activities and Lijlestyles. Open Uni. Press, UK,

1999: 32.

12, Haye, Amy d.l. Defining Dress, Manchester Univ.

Press, 1999:6.

13. Adam, Paul S. A Model for Protective Clothing Effects

on PerfOrmance, international Jburnal of Ctothing Science and fechnotogy; 1994: Nbl 2, No.2, 6,

14. E.Braddock, Sarah and O'Mahony Marie. 1lechno - llrxtites Revolutionary thbrics for Fbshion and Design, Thames and Hudson, UK, 1999: 7-13.

134BULLETINOFJSSD VoL48 No.6 2002 THESCIENCE OFDESIGN

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