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Alexander Wang Fashion. Beauty. Business. APRIL 2015 No.1 Alexander Wang The Six Who will build the powerhouse brands US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 of tomorrow? CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 A look at six of the EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 industry’s best bets. Fashion. Beauty. Business. APRIL 2015 No.1 The Row The Six Who will build the powerhouse brands US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 of tomorrow? CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 A look at six of the EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 industry’s best bets. Christopher Kane J.W. Anderson Introducing the ricky drawstring 888.475.7674 ralphlauren.com The Ricky Sunglass ARMANI.COM/ATRIBUTE 800.929.Dior (3467) Dior.com © 2015 Estée Lauder Inc. © 2015 DRIVEN BY DESIRE esteelauder.com NEW. PURE COLOR ENVY SHINE On Carolyn: Empowered Sculpt. Hydrate. Illuminate. NEW ORIGINAL HIGH-IMPACT CREME AND NEW SHINE FINISH Contents Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Alexander J.W. Wang The Row Anderson Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Chitose Christopher Proenza Abe Kane Schouler Six Covers Photographer Nigel Parry shot the designers for the cover story during a whirlwind global tour. “To be asked to photograph the covers for the launch of the new WWD weekly is a gift to any photographer,” he said. “I’m not saying it was easy — eight designers, six days, three continents — but the jet-lag was kept at bay by meeting such great talents. Thank you WWD!” Cover Story The 168 Fashion has long been obsessed with the new, the fresh, the unexpected, never more so than now. WWD studies ascendant talent and offers a Six list of designers behind six brands we think have what it takes to be next-generation megapowers. 20 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Contents Thom Browne’s coat over Marc Jacobs’ skirt and shorts. Viewfinder: Myanmar at Play . 206 The four-day Thingyan water festival leading up to the Myanmar New Year has people engaging in purification rituals and teens using the time to party and dress like pop stars. The Edge of Innocence 210 A heady darkness permeated the fall collections. Designers drew on romantic notions of Victoriana, rendering lace, tulle and embroidery in chaste silhouettes, their gentleness betrayed by a latent sensuality. Village Noir The 220 The overcoat — a little longer in luxe fabrics and with the occasional flamboyant touch — is the ultimate statement for going Features undercover on those chilly New York nights. Billy Kidd by Photograph 24 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME Contents DEPARTMENTS 28 Letter From the Editor 36 Social Studies The best and worst in social media, what’s trending, whom to follow. 135 Eye • Parties Chanel toasts TriBeCa Film Festival talent at Balthazar. • Arts & Culture Actress Sarah Sutherland takes TriBeCa. • Arts & Culture Eat your art out at the Whitney’s new restaurant, Untitled. • Report Card No thrill from Hil, Blake burns it up, Diesel disaster and Henrik hits the mark. • City File Exploring Baku, the oil-rich capital of Azerbaijan. 160 Media People: Oprah Winfrey The media mogul chats about her empire, her cultural legacy and whether she misses appearing regularly on television. 230 Bridget Foley’s Diary The She-Gods of Fashion: The continuing conversation on the Junya role gender plays in success. Watanabe 232 They Are Wearing Spring on the Street: It was a long winter, but spring finally rolled in and the chill-weary shed their cold-weather gear. Increasingly, current fashion is about the surface, and one 236 Think Tank Why Authenticity Matters in China: of its most important elements is fabric R&D, which for fall Richard Liu, founder and chief executive officer of JD.com, the resulted in a bounty of extravagant textures. — Trends, page 45 largest e-tailer in China and Alibaba’s biggest competitor, discusses corporate accountability. 238 Remember The Milan Expo . Giorgio Armani’s Agenda Silos Project . Human Resources . Events 240 Finale When You’re Smiling: Marc Jacobs’ Fashion 41 Retail 100 wit was evident from his early Key trends of fall: extreme texture, The New Inorganics: Retailers spend Sketchbook days. long sleeves, capes and more . big on acquisitions . The Off-Price Tokyo’s Rising Son: Facetasm’s Battle . Reimagining Retail with Hiromichi Ochiai . Model Call . Rent the Runway . Retail Briefs Fashion Briefs Was it Vin for the win or was Blake barely M 64 Accessories 110 there? Men’s accessories are awash in bright Gotta Have It: The season’s hot bag, hues . Dan and Dean Caten have boot, brooch . Moynat: The Little a secret . In the Running: Who Engine That Could . Tux Luxe . should be the face of American men’s Accessories Briefs wear? Model Call . M Briefs Beauty 80 Markets 126 Revlon’s Quest for Love . No One in the Middle: A redefined The Smell Test . Anatomy of middle market is changing the The Now Brow . Misunderstood landscape . Investment Guide to Masstige . Beauty Briefs the apparel galaxy . Markets Briefs 26 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Editor’s Letter “Nothing is lost . everything is transformed.” emember that from your high school science class? No doubt true enough on a molecular level, but try telling it to the poor soul who’s praying to Saint Anthony to find RRhis car keys. ¶ It seems an appropriate bit of wisdom for us here at WWD, though: This thumping new weekly is, in real terms, our transformation. It’s a cumulative build on 105 years of reporting on the fashion, retail and beauty industries. ¶ In concert with an incessant stream of news on WWD.com, wide-reaching social media, a daily PDF and decades-rich archives (that’s the “nothing is lost” part), this new weekly will offer context, trends, deeper analysis and compelling imagery. We’ll dig into the fashion, social, cultural and economic developments underpinning a business that’s shot through with contradictions: high/low, chic/vulgar, humble/egomaniacal, authentic/ pretentious, celebratory/tragic. ¶ So what exactly is this? A newsweekly? A fashion weekly? An evolved species? Yes, yes and yes. ¶ Our primary mission is clear: inform the industry via our international network of reporters and editors, while not forgetting that the civilian population following the fashion world has never been more fascinated with its insider exotica. Whatever the reader’s objective, we’ll continue to deliver the inside baseball. 888.530.7660 Continued on page 30 ► CAROLINAHERRERA.COM 28 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Editor’s Letter Continued from page 28 This week, our cover story, The WWD Six, Each of these designers and brands had takes us out on a limb, but as the saying goes, wide support from our diverse sample, with that’s where the fruit is. In our ongoing fasci- Wang the closest thing to a unanimous choice. nation with creative/commercial tension, we The biggest surprise was Sacai’s Chitose Abe, talked to fashion directors, financial players whose quiet ways run counter to the nearly and retail executives around the world and clichéd persona of designer-as-celeb. We’re asked them which designers have the stay- calling her “The Enigma.” A favorite quote in ing power and commercial instincts to go big, our profile of Abe: “I try to create a balance really big, someday. So we’re not talking pure between stability and betrayal.” Cerebral, yes. creativity; that’s a given just to be considered And the retailers love it. for the list. Common to this elite group is not only a Remember the now-famous Antwerp distinctive aesthetic, but a practical aware- Six, so tagged in 1987? Dries Van Noten, Ann ness that creativity ultimately serves their Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Marina Yee, businesses. Walter Van Beirendonck and Dirk Bikkembergs. Also common to The Six for this issue: the Whether dark and brooding, deconstructive, arresting photographs by Nigel Parry. Dis- minimal or outrageous, the “Twerpers” were patched to three continents over six days, noted for their fierce independence. We Parry produced beautiful work on the fly, and wanted to look at today’s developing scene a with nary a peep of complaint. You’ve heard little differently, weighing creative credentials about diva photographers? Parry’s the refresh- with a designer’s right-brain capacity for deliv- ing yin to that unfortunate yang. His adventure ering the business over the long haul. was not unlike that of WWD’s intrepid staff, Narrowing the list was tough. There are who shipped this 250-page publication in many ambitious design talents out there and three days. some excluded from this final list could one Take a deep breath, this is only Week One. day be household names running billion-dol- — Ed Nardoza lar enterprises. With lots of pain, we culled those talents to The WWD Six: Alexander Wang, The Row, Proenza Schouler, J.W. Anderson, Sacai and Christopher Kane. OK, The Row’s Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen and Proenza Schoul- er’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez technically make it eight designers, but six labels. No apologies. 30 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Edward Nardoza EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera DESIGN DEPARTMENT MANAGING EDITOR, FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS Dianne M. Pogoda CREATIVE DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha ART DIRECTOR Geraldson Chua DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark DESIGNER Robyn Boehler NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zackiewicz DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Donna Heiderstadt PHOTOGRAPHY SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia PHOTO DIRECTOR Carrie Provenzano SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, TEXTILES & TRADE Arthur Friedman BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Tricia VanGessel SENIOR EDITORS, FINANCIAL Arnold J.
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