Fashion. Beauty. Business.

APRIL 2015 No.1

Alexander Wang

The

Six

Who will build the powerhouse brands US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 of tomorrow? CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 A look at six of the EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 industry’s best bets.

Fashion. Beauty. Business.

APRIL 2015 No.1

The Row

The

Six

Who will build the powerhouse brands US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 of tomorrow? CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 A look at six of the EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 industry’s best bets. Christopher Kane J.W. Anderson

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Contents

Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business.

Alexander J.W. Wang The Row Anderson

Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business.

Chitose Christopher Proenza Abe Kane Schouler

Six Covers Photographer Nigel Parry shot the designers for the cover story during a whirlwind global tour. “To be asked to photograph the covers for the launch of the new WWD weekly is a gift to any photographer,” he said. “I’m not saying it was easy — eight designers, six days, three continents — but the jet-lag was kept at bay by meeting such great talents. Thank you WWD!”

Cover Story The 168 Fashion has long been obsessed with the new, the fresh, the unexpected, never more so than now. WWD studies ascendant talent and offers a Six list of designers behind six brands we think have what it takes to be next-generation megapowers.

20 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM

Contents

Thom Browne’s coat over Marc Jacobs’ skirt and shorts.

Viewfinder: Myanmar at Play . . . 206 The four-day Thingyan water festival leading up to the Myanmar New Year has people engaging in purification rituals and teens using the time to party and dress like pop stars. The Edge of Innocence 210 A heady darkness permeated the fall collections. Designers drew on romantic notions of Victoriana, rendering lace, tulle and embroidery in chaste silhouettes, their gentleness betrayed by a latent sensuality. Village Noir The 220 The overcoat — a little longer in luxe fabrics and with the occasional flamboyant touch — is the ultimate statement for going Features undercover on those chilly New York nights. Billy Kidd by Photograph

24 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME Contents

DEPARTMENTS

28 Letter From the Editor

36 Social Studies The best and worst in social media, what’s trending, whom to follow.

135 Eye • Parties Chanel toasts TriBeCa Film Festival talent at Balthazar. • Arts & Culture Actress Sarah Sutherland takes TriBeCa. • Arts & Culture Eat your art out at the Whitney’s new restaurant, Untitled. • Report Card No thrill from Hil, Blake burns it up, Diesel disaster and Henrik hits the mark. • City File Exploring Baku, the oil-rich capital of Azerbaijan.

160 Media People: Oprah Winfrey The media mogul chats about her empire, her cultural legacy and whether she misses appearing regularly on television.

230 Bridget Foley’s Diary The She-Gods of Fashion: The continuing conversation on the Junya role gender plays in success. Watanabe

232 They Are Wearing Spring on the Street: It was a long winter, but spring finally rolled in and the chill-weary shed their cold-weather gear.

Increasingly, current fashion is about the surface, and one 236 Think Tank Why Authenticity Matters in China: of its most important elements is fabric R&D, which for fall Richard Liu, founder and chief executive officer of JD.com, the resulted in a bounty of extravagant textures. — Trends, page 45 largest e-tailer in China and Alibaba’s biggest competitor, discusses corporate accountability.

238 Remember The Milan Expo . . . Giorgio Armani’s Agenda Silos Project . . . Human Resources . . . Events

240 Finale When You’re Smiling: Marc Jacobs’ Fashion 41 Retail 100 wit was evident from his early Key trends of fall: extreme texture, The New Inorganics: Retailers spend Sketchbook days. long sleeves, capes and more . . . big on acquisitions . . . The Off-Price Tokyo’s Rising Son: Facetasm’s Battle . . . Reimagining Retail with Hiromichi Ochiai . . . Model Call . . . Rent the Runway . . . Retail Briefs Fashion Briefs Was it Vin for the win or was Blake barely M 64 Accessories 110 there? Men’s accessories are awash in bright Gotta Have It: The season’s hot bag, hues . . . Dan and Dean Caten have boot, brooch . . . Moynat: The Little a secret . . . In the Running: Who Engine That Could . . . Tux Luxe . . . should be the face of American men’s Accessories Briefs wear? Model Call . . . M Briefs

Beauty 80 Markets 126 Revlon’s Quest for Love . . . No One in the Middle: A redefined The Smell Test . . . Anatomy of middle market is changing the The Now Brow . . . Misunderstood landscape . . . Investment Guide to Masstige . . . Beauty Briefs the apparel galaxy . . . Markets Briefs

26 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Editor’s Letter

“Nothing is lost . . . everything is transformed.”

emember that from your high school science class? No doubt true enough on a molecular level, but try telling it to the poor soul who’s praying to Saint Anthony to find RRhis car keys. ¶ It seems an appropriate bit of wisdom for us here at WWD, though: This thumping new weekly is, in real terms, our transformation. It’s a cumulative build on 105 years of reporting on the fashion, retail and beauty industries. ¶ In concert with an incessant stream of news on WWD.com, wide-reaching social media, a daily PDF and decades-rich archives (that’s the “nothing is lost” part), this new weekly will offer context, trends, deeper analysis and compelling imagery. We’ll dig into the fashion, social, cultural and economic developments underpinning a business that’s shot through with contradictions: high/low, chic/vulgar, humble/egomaniacal, authentic/ pretentious, celebratory/tragic. ¶ So what exactly is this? A newsweekly? A fashion weekly? An evolved species? Yes, yes and yes. ¶ Our primary mission is clear: inform the industry via our international network of reporters and editors, while not forgetting that the civilian population following the fashion world has never been more fascinated with its insider exotica. Whatever the reader’s objective, we’ll continue to deliver the inside baseball. 888.530.7660 Continued on page 30 ►

CAROLINAHERRERA.COM 28 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Editor’s Letter

Continued from page 28 This week, our cover story, The WWD Six, Each of these designers and brands had takes us out on a limb, but as the saying goes, wide support from our diverse sample, with that’s where the fruit is. In our ongoing fasci- Wang the closest thing to a unanimous choice. nation with creative/commercial tension, we The biggest surprise was Sacai’s Chitose Abe, talked to fashion directors, financial players whose quiet ways run counter to the nearly and retail executives around the world and clichéd persona of designer-as-celeb. We’re asked them which designers have the stay- calling her “The Enigma.” A favorite quote in ing power and commercial instincts to go big, our profile of Abe: “I try to create a balance really big, someday. So we’re not talking pure between stability and betrayal.” Cerebral, yes. creativity; that’s a given just to be considered And the retailers love it. for the list. Common to this elite group is not only a Remember the now-famous Antwerp distinctive aesthetic, but a practical aware- Six, so tagged in 1987? Dries Van Noten, Ann ness that creativity ultimately serves their Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Marina Yee, businesses. Walter Van Beirendonck and Dirk Bikkembergs. Also common to The Six for this issue: the Whether dark and brooding, deconstructive, arresting photographs by Nigel Parry. Dis- minimal or outrageous, the “Twerpers” were patched to three continents over six days, noted for their fierce independence. We Parry produced beautiful work on the fly, and wanted to look at today’s developing scene a with nary a peep of complaint. You’ve heard little differently, weighing creative credentials about diva photographers? Parry’s the refresh- with a designer’s right-brain capacity for deliv- ing yin to that unfortunate yang. His adventure ering the business over the long haul. was not unlike that of WWD’s intrepid staff, Narrowing the list was tough. There are who shipped this 250-page publication in many ambitious design talents out there and three days. some excluded from this final list could one Take a deep breath, this is only Week One. day be household names running billion-dol- — Ed Nardoza lar enterprises. With lots of pain, we culled those talents to The WWD Six: Alexander Wang, The Row, Proenza Schouler, J.W. Anderson, Sacai and Christopher Kane. OK, The Row’s Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen and Proenza Schoul- er’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez technically make it eight designers, but six labels. No apologies.

30 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Edward Nardoza EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR

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34 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM SOCIAL STUDIES THE WEEK IN SOCIAL MEDIA Follow Us @WWD

EDITED BY GABRIELLA CALABRO AND KRISTEN TAUER Best Louboutin’s polishes get the artistic treatment from @paperfashion.

Extreme beauty — base jumper Blake Lively embraces Mancino Roberta gives Bobbi Brown a bird’s-eye view of Dubai. Naomi on Bruce Jenner: #GoBruce her inner emoji chic. #speakyourtruth

@blakelively @louboutinworld Mancino Roberta @iamnaomicampbell Actress/Lifestyle Entrepreneur Shoe designer/Lux Polish Purveyor Athlete/ BASE Jumper Model

Worst This dog has no idea what he’s doing — or that he’s published a book on style.

Reformation switches carbon dioxide for carbs for their latest sustainability push. Spotted — then mysteriously deleted – post with strategic use of body paint. Too much love? He’s in trouble if Not approved? this fan-made toy comes to life.

@reformation @maisonvalentino @itsjeremyscott @mensweardog Eco-clothing maker Fashion House Fashion Designer Clothes Hound What’s Trending Let’s Follow #SPRING: Brands put spring to work for them.

FASHION PERSONALITY MODEL LIFESTYLE FASHION DESIGNER @katespadeny In case you need an excuse for a new handbag, it’s spring!

@ElieTahari @lelarose Spring Refresh: Sharp and bold, a sport-luxe Errands with Bobbin! layer that won’t break a sweat > http://tahari. Loving the Spring co/TKatya Weather.

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36 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM CLOTHING U HANDBAGS U JEWELRY U OUTERWEAR U SHOES EDITED BY DONNA HEIDERSTADT FashionAgenda

WE LOVE NEW BEGINNINGS We salute the new weekly WWD for this beautiful transformation. The Trend In Trends Is the Trend dead? The fall collections suggested otherwise. Compiled by MAYTE ALLENDE

here’s a common wisdom that trends The season’s other major trend spans many are passé. Yes and no. Certainly moods. Increasingly, current fashion is about the there’s more variety from across the surface, with designers offering myriad textures T designer spectrum than ever before. to diverse effect. A double case-in-point: at Dior, With so much choice, women today Raf Simons went both future-slick with perfo- are empowered to develop their own sense of rated separates and indulgently lush with rich- style. Yet one is hard-pressed to deny the emer- hued fur. Then there are mini trends, whether gence of themes, great and small, from the col- a single item — car-wash skirt, cropped flared lections. Fall’s most dramatic motif: a gloriously pants — or a flourish, as in extra-long sleeves brooding Victorian vibe (The Edge of Innocence, or fur bits. The difference is in the delivery. page 210). Retailers loved it for its sensual allure; Designer dictates are passé. But what’s wrong DIOR surely their customers will, too. with chic suggestion? Photograph by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Photograph

WWD.COM APRIL 29, 2015 41 Agenda TEXTURE

CÉLINE As fast fashion continues to churn out good-looking clothes, the Fashion designer sector is ever eager to up the ante. One of its most important directions: fabric research and development that for fall resulted in a bounty of extravagant textures.

CHANEL

CAROLINA HERRERA

LANVIN

MICHAEL KORS

JUNYA WATANABE Herrera photograph by George Chinsee; All others by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Chinsee; All others George by photograph Herrera

42 APRIL29, 2015 WWD.COM FashionAgenda VERA WANG Sometimes by proportions tweaking How todeliver luxury withacasual attitude insyncwithmodernlife? so that they’re alittle“off,”so thatthey’re as with fall’s extra-long sleeves. Still, you wonder, who sent thememo? SLEEVES LONG UNDERCOVER ALEXIS MABILLE NINA RICCI ACNE STUDIOS NEHERA JACQUEMUS

Nehera photograph by Dominique Maître; All others by Giovanni Giannoni

BOUTIQUES 1-888-782-6357 OSCARDELARENTA.COM CROPPED Agenda FLARES OSMAN

Fall’s newest pants, cropped flares,

Fashion turned up in numerous variations. They came racy at Calvin Klein Collection, with a hint of Mod STELLA at Fendi and cut with trumpet McCARTNEY hems at Stella McCartney for a look of tailored charm.

VERSACE

MARY KATRANTZOU

FENDI

CALVIN KLEIN

ROKSANDA ILINCIC Klein photograph by George Chinsee; Versace by Davide Maestri; All others by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by All others Davide Maestri; by Chinsee; Versace George by Klein photograph

46 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM CAPES BURBERRY SONIA RYKIEL Agenda PRORSUM No single item says swagger like a cape. For fall, it also says charm, romance, bravado, a little

Fashion artiness and plenty of attitude. Designers embraced the look in neo-Victorian velvet, blanket-stitched suede and cashmere and every iteration of wool.

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

BOTTEGA VENETA

MARC JACOBS

RALPH LAUREN

SAINT LAURENT CHLOÉ Veneta photograph by Davide Maestri; Jacobs by George Chinsee; All others by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Chinsee; All others George Jacobs by Davide Maestri; by photograph Veneta

48 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM FUR Agenda ACCENTS

Fashion’s romance with fur

Fashion continues for fall. No longer just the stuff of lavish outerwear, fur and feathers turned up as stoles, bandeaux, flashy GIAMBATTISTA pockets and feminine VALLI shoulder details.

COACH JASON WU

ROCHAS

PETER PILOTTO

MARNI

PRADA

ANTONIO MARRAS Coach photograph by Robert Mitra; Prada by Davide Maestri; All others by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by All others Davide Maestri; by Prada Mitra; Robert by Coach photograph

50 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM VICTORIA BECKHAM DENIM White crop top, $455. White fold skirt, $590. 59th Street, Aventura and Century City. DONNA DIOR KARAN Agenda SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Fashion

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Ferragamo and Puglisi photographs by Davide Maestri; All others by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by All others Davide Maestri; by photographs and Puglisi Ferragamo [email protected] SWAROVSKI.COM/PROFESSIONAL 52 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM POIS MOI COLLECTION

orking out of a small I.T and Joyce in Hong Kong and H. Lorenzo in Los office in a nondescript, Angeles. The latest, Dover Street Market outposts Tokyo’s late-Sixties apartment in New York and London, picked up the line for building in the heart fall and Ochiai is set to design two exclusive pieces of Tokyo’s fashionable for the retailer. Rising Son: WJingumae district, Hiro- Kazuyoshi Minamimagoe, senior creative direc- michi Ochiai runs one of tor at Japanese retailer Beams, said Ochiai’s the city’s buzziest brands: Facetasm. Facetasm collection was his favorite of the Tokyo Last month, the designer of the eight-year-old season. “I think among the brands that participate Facetasm’s label closed Tokyo Fashion Week with a high-en- in Tokyo Fashion Week, it’s the most top-class ergy show featuring innovative takes on tailoring one….I think every season it’s interesting,” he and garment construction. Large bustles of ruffles noted. “But this time it had a polish to it; it was Hiromichi jutted out from pants, skirts and jackets, swoosh- more sophisticated. I think from a buyer’s point ing as the models walked the runway. Also notable of view, it’s an easy collection to buy.” were an oversize poncho in bright pink and a navy Gary Wong, buying director at Shine in Beijing, Ochiai peacoat with origamilike sleeves and lime-green also lauded Ochiai — even while lobbing a bit of pockets — just two examples of how Ochiai strives constructive criticism. Wong, who has been car- His fall collection landed him a to create “a mix of street and high fashion.” rying Facetasm for two seasons, reported that the deal with Dover Street Market and The 37-year-old Tokyo native said he “likes to women’s collection is doing well with Chinese cus- take something that’s seen as casual and elevate tomers. But he also cited some repetition in recent put the eight-year-old brand on it.” That approach seems to be paying off for the collections and would like a “stronger statement” the international radar. designer, who works with a team of just four peo- and a more international viewpoint from Ochiai. ple. Annual sales are still modest at 150 million “If [he were to] travel to Hong Kong or China, ROBERTOCOIN.COM | 212-486-4545 By AMANDA KAISER yen, or $1.26 million, but the business is poised observe what people like, it helps,” Wong said. to grow. Facetasm has more than 50 sales points “This is important for any young designer — you go in Japan and 15 other stores worldwide, including there and you see the people and understand what

54 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photographs by OGATA is Beijing, not just stay in Tokyo and, on occasion, go to work in Paris.” Ochiai, who is set to be in Paris in June for his Agenda second showroom project for young Japanese designers as part of the Tokyo Fashion Award ini- tiative, said he developed an interest in design as a high school student, fascinated by Undercover’s Jun Takahashi. “I was able to watch his rise in Paris Fashion in real time — I was very impressed by that,” noted the designer, sporting a shoulder-length mane of black hair, baggy khaki pants and a Black Flag T-shirt layered over a hooded sweatshirt. After enrolling at the prestigious Bunka Fashion College, Ochiai developed an appreciation for the lumpy, asymmetric forms Rei Kawakubo did for her Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body collection for Comme des Garçons’ spring 1997 season. He also admired the work of the Antwerp Six. “I liked that they were doing something to really change the era of fashion, to leave something behind, do something mem- orable,” he said. Following his graduation in 1999, Ochiai struggled to find jobs in fashion, so he accepted a part-time position at Tokyo textile com- pany Guildwork as a stopover. He ended up staying for eight years, acting as a liaison between “I’ll just be walking around Tokyo, thinking the fabric maker and its clients — which included Comme des about what kinds of things people need right Garçons, Undercover and Zucca. “I now, what’s missing, and I’ll start making was able to work with [lots of] different designers and learn from each of them,” things from there. And often at the end, I’ll he recalled. In 2007, he decided to set up shop look at the result and say: ‘Ah, so that is what with a brand of his own — choosing to call I wanted to make from the beginning.’” it Facetasm as a play on the word facet. “Each season I want to show a different side,” the designer explained. Hiromichi Ochiai in his Tokyo studio; two looks from Facetasm’s fall collection. Ochiai based his fall show on the concept of “love” — although, as he clarified, this referred to a love of clothes by both himself and thinking about what designs to make with them. the possibilities are endless. It’s a very easy place others — saying he wanted his audience to have a It’s always very last minute.” to be a fashion designer,” he said. “warm feeling” after the show. One part of Ochiai’s design inspiration is eas- With his focus squarely on the next logical steps Yet in general, Ochiai said he doesn’t really think ier to pin down. He has a particular fascination to grow his business, Ochiai said he is eager to in terms of themes. “I’ll just be walking around with the movies of Gus Van Sant, especially the gain a retail foothold in Paris — he recently hired Tokyo, thinking about what kinds of things peo- 2003 film “Elephant,” which chronicles a school a new sales agent there — and would love to see ple need right now, what’s missing, and I’ll start shooting partly based on the 1999 Columbine an American retailer like Bergdorf Goodman carry making things from there. And often at the end, High School tragedy. “I like the sort of naïveté of his clothes. I’ll look at the result and say: ‘Ah, so that is what I [the films], but also the visual side, the colors, The designer is also starting to think about stag- wanted to make from the beginning.’” that kind of thing….I watch [“Elephant”] before ing a runway show in Paris at some point. “I dream His thought process for fall resulted in a long each collection. Just naturally, I end up watching of showing in Paris, but I’m sort of struggling skirt made of different bolts of pleated fabric, a it every time,” he said. with how to do it and whether I want to continue midriff-bearing sweater and a bolero-style top Outside of fashion, Ochiai’s days mainly consist to show men’s and women’s together like I do in with puffy honeycomb sleeves. For men, a stand- of riding his BMX bike between his office and his Tokyo or do it some other way,” he said. out was a hybrid trench coat/motorcycle jacket home in Sasazuka, a residential neighborhood Asked if he thinks of himself as an ambassador and wide-legged pants. His past collections have on the western side of the city. Fortunately for for Japanese fashion, Ochiai said he’s not sure if similarly emphasized layering, texture and fabric; him, he appears to be a fan of his hometown and he holds that kind of position just yet — but it’s a all the textiles he uses are exclusively Japanese. sees it as a fertile place to start a business. “As a role he would like to have. “If there was a baton “Of course you have to start with the textiles, creator in Tokyo, you can do whatever you want. being passed off to the next [international] repre- so I sort of start out thinking about what kinds of You can make anything you want because there’s sentative of Japanese fashion, I would immediately colors and textures I want. At the same time, I’m a very high level of craftsmanship and quality, so raise my hand for it.”

Bestsellers OSpring’s unexpected must-have is Frame Denim’s Le High Flare Jumper Giannoni Frame ($330). The company has delivered more than 2,000 pairs of its third iteration Denim — after skinny and boyfriend styles — of the once-humble overall. “We backed Giovanni

the trend with conviction, buying styles from a number of denim brands, but by Net-a-porter even I’m surprised by the consumer’s mass adoption of the trend,” said Net-a- porter buyer Octavia Bradford. “It probably doesn’t hurt that Kate Bosworth, photograph

Alessandra Ambrosio and a stream of stars have been rocking the style lately.” ay w Run

56 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM How did you start modeling? I got scouted when I was 14 at this concert in Sweden. They were like, “Do you want to be a model?”

Agenda I was like, “No.” They were after me for six years. I felt like, “Wait, you want me to be a model?” When you’re 14, your idea of a

Fashion model is like — a princess.

But you changed your mind. I studied law for three years. When I say that to people, they’re like, “Really, you?” Then I studied language. And then, like everyone else, I wanted to travel. So when I was 21, I hit up the [agency].

What were your first modeling experiences like? The first year was so hard. I told myself, “I’m gonna model, but Model Call: I’m gonna do it my way. I don’t want to change and I don’t want to put pressure on myself.” I said [to my Erika Linder agents]: “I want to shoot as a guy, too.” They didn’t get it. Discover O In her first photo shoot, So embodying male and the exceptional world Erika Linder posed — female personas is an idea convincingly — as a young you proposed? Yeah. And back then no one was of jewelry Leonardo DiCaprio. That really out there doing that. This gig marked the start of guy hit me up who runs Candy a versatile career for the magazine. He said, “I want to shoot and watchmaking you as a young Leonardo DiCaprio 24-year-old, who has from ‘The Basketball Diaries.’” showcased her androgyny The agency was like, “No, no, no.” Created by Van Cleef & Arpels, L’École is open to for Tom Ford, Vogue Italia They were weirded out about the public and devoted exclusively to the pursuit and it. And I said, “But I would do that and even a Katy Perry even if I wasn’t a model!” So I knowledge of jewelry and watchmaking. video. But Los Angeles-based ended up doing it. It was my first Linder isn’t trying to be photo shoot. L’École Van Cleef & Arpels in New York subversive or make headlines And more recently, you were in — she’s just being herself. a Tom Ford campaign as a guy. June 4–18, 2015 What was that like? By KRISTI GARCED They were like, “You’re gonna make at Height: 5’9” Hair: Blonde out with this girl [in the shoot].” At Cooper Hewitt, Eyes: Blue Measurements: 32, 24, 34 first, I was like, “What does she Agency: Next Management look like?” They were like, “Really?” Smithsonian Design Museum Hometown: Stockholm So they sent me a picture. I was 2 East 91st Street, New York like, “Yeah, she’s all right. I could do that.” [She laughs.]

Your versatility enables you to embody feminine, sexy looks as us.lecolevancleefarpels.com well, though. I would never dress like that per- sonally. But it’s kind of like acting. Every time I’m on set, I never feel like myself. I just put it on, and I feel pretty. [She laughs again.]

58 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photograph by GEORGE CHINSEE FashionBriefs

WOOLMARK NOMINEES FILM REVIEW THE CHART A work in progress: Their Eyes Are “China: Through Fall Pattern Smackdown On the Prize the Looking Glass” Margiela Is OThe fall collections were filled with at the Met’s prints and patterns — from bold stripes OThe International Costume Institute. and plaids to interior-design-inspired bro- Woolmark Prize has Still Missing Here, a look from cades and florals. Which one appeared revealed its U.S. nominees Laurence Xu. Martin Margiela is, indeed, in the most designer lineups? We reviewed for 2015-2016. The women’s our runway coverage to find out. wear finalists are Chris physically absent from —COMPILED BY KELSI ZIMMERMAN Gelinas, Kaelen, Nellie “The Artist is Absent,” the Partow, Novis and Tanya Taylor. The men’s wear documentary on his life New York Milan London Paris finalists are Cadet, David directed by Alison Chernick Hart, Lucio Castro, Siki Im and Thaddeus O’Neil. and produced by Yoox 64 The U.S. winners will be Group that was screened 77 selected July 21 in New York, based on sketches at New York’s TriBeCa Film of a six-piece merino wool Festival. And so is John capsule collection, with one Stripes 200 Total garment actually produced. Galliano, the house’s current They’ll then compete creative director. But via against finalists in Shang- hai, Sydney, Antwerp, Dubai archival runway footage 42 and the British Isles for and interviews with the coveted award. 17 — LISA LOCKWOOD Margiela’s confidantes 39 — including Raf Simons, Jean Paul Gaultier and 79 Suzy Menkes — the elusive Belgian designer comes 166 to life in the 10-minute 24 Chris Gelinas short, which looks back on his early years at Plaids the Royal Academy of Fine 24 MET COSTUME EXHIBITION Curator Andrew Bolton Arts in Antwerp until his 20 Dynasties Meet recruited top talent to 2009 departure from the Kaelen’s Designers execute his multisensory vision of the fashion and 19 Kaelen Haworth house that still bears his Tweeds O“China: Through the cultural evolution of 61 Looking Glass,” which Imperial China through name. “Martin said what opens to the public May 7 at the present-day Peo- he needed to say,” Simons y WWD Archive the Metropolitan Museum ple’s Republic of China: 14 of Art’s Costume Institute, Esteemed filmmaker Wong said in the film. “It’s what 39 10 will take visitors on one Kar-Wai is the artistic direc- more people should do.” kaleidoscopic, topsy-turvy tor; London-based milliner Nellie Partow trip. The expansive exhibi- Stephen Jones has crafted — KRISTI GARCED Florals tion starts with a mirrored 120-plus headpieces, tunnel flickering with video including those referencing clips of Bernardo Berto- the 12 Imperial symbols; 177 lucci’s “The Last Emperor” and “Interstellar” produc- and leads to the dragon tion designer Nathan robe worn by Puyi, The Last Crowley has created a 36 82 Novis’ Emperor, when he was four moonlike projection for Jordana Warmflash years old. Interspersed the bamboo forest that will amid the centuries-old rise in The Astor Court. Chinese costumes, “In a way, the show is not 20 19 paintings and porcelains about China per se, but a will be all-gold mannequins fantasy of China that really 23 decked out in designer exists through the looking Animal 63 creations from Paul Poiret, glass of fashion and film,” Prints Balenciaga, Yves Saint Bolton said. Tanya Taylor Laurent, Chanel and others. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG 9 31 10 YOU WANT FRIES WITH THAT? Colette’s Fast-Food Fare QUOTED OBig Macs — at least pictograms of them “Chiffon is my nature. — are about to share a roof with Colette’s famed Water Bar. McDonald’s has collab- If you don’t have chiffon orated with the Paris retailer on a capsule 155 collection of T-shirts, totes and smartphone 15 97 in your life, you’re missing cases printed with graphics of the U.S. fast-food giant’s top-performing menu items, out on something.” which were featured last year in a poster 12 — Model Pat Cleveland, at “Designer As campaign for McDonald’s. Priced from one Dramatist — Intersection of Fashion and Theater,” euro ($1.07) for a postcard to 37 euros ($40) Brocades and A.L.C. a panel discussion at the Wallis Annenberg for a T-shirt, the goods will be sold in-store Jacquards

Center for the Performing Arts in Beverly Hills. and online May 4 to 31. — JOELLE DIDERICH b headshots Woolmark Jim Spellman/WireImage; by Thomas Iannaccone; Cleveland by exhibition Met Carlos Monteiro. by Infographics nordstrom.com/spring 60 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM

EDITED BY JEAN E. PALMIERI AND ALEX BADIA Agenda www.brunellocucinelli.com

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1. Givenchy 2. Hermès 3. Gucci 4. Hermès 5. Mark Cross 6. Givenchy 7. Fendi 8. Y-3 9. Bottega Veneta 10. Want Les Essentiels de la Vie 11. Alexander Olen 12. Gucci Color Code 13. Dior 14. Sergio Rossi From updated Chelsea boots to humorous conversational designs in leather goods, men’s accessories are awash in a sea of vibrant hues. Fashion Edited by ALEX BADIA Fashion Styled by RACHEL STICKLEY Photographs by GEORGE CHINSEE Story by JEAN E. PALMIERI

64 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM 1. Pierre Hardy 2. Balenciaga 3. Coach 4. Comme des Garçons 5. J.W. Anderson 6. Nike 7. Valextra 8. Christian Louboutin 9. Marc Jacobs 10. Carhartt 11. Carven 12. Comme des Garçons 13. Marc Jacobs 14. Saint Laurent 15. Brioni 16. Saint Laurent Agenda

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here was at least one good sales soared from $2.9 billion to $4.3 billion in belts, small leather goods and shoes, was worth 2.6 thing to come out of the Great that time frame. billion euros, or $3.2 billion at average exchange, Recession — it was the spark that IBISWorld retail analyst Will McKitterick proj- in 2014. Although shoe sales were under pressure, started the worldwide explo- ects that men’s accessories will account for 17.5 sales of textile accessories and leather goods rose 4 sion in men’s accessories. percent of the handbag, luggage and accessory and 16 percent, respectively, according to a Fashion From pocket squares to business in the U.S. in 2015, up from an estimated Consumer Panel survey by Sita Ricerca. According bracelets, backpacks to color- 14.5 percent in 2010. “In recent years, the domes- to Euromonitor, the men’s luxury jewelry category ful socks, accessories are the tic market for women’s accessories has become saw 6 percent growth worldwide in 2014. Thottest category in men’s wear. increasingly saturated and highly competitive,” As a result of this growth, retailers and brands According to The NPD Group, total sales of he said. “In response, several accessory [brands] are devoting more resources than ever to the men’s accessories in the U.S. jumped 28.7 percent have begun to design and sell a larger variety of men’s accessory category. Retailers such as Bar- from 2012 to 2014, rising from $11.5 billion to $14.8 men’s accessories that extend beyond wallets, neys New York and Printemps have expanded billion. By product category, sales of men’s bags belts and laptop bags.” their men’s accessories buying teams, while almost doubled, from $1.4 billion in 2012 to $2.3 The growth isn’t being seen only in the U.S. major department stores worldwide are allocat- billion in 2014. Small personal accessories rose Sales are booming from Japan to Europe. In Italy, ing greater space to the sector and designers are from $800 million to $1.2 billion, and jewelry men’s accessories, including textile accessories, rolling out more styles to capture the increasingly

66 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM 1. Prada 2. Davek 3. Acne 4. Coach 5. Tumi 6. Fendi 7. Loewe 8. Michael Kors 9. Adidas by Raf Simons 10. Ports 1961 11. Borsalino 12. Mulberry 13. Loewe 14. Ralph Lauren 15. Hugo Boss 16. Maison Kitsuné 17. Grenson Agenda

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discerning male consumer. using “a great watch, sunglasses, tablet portfolio Ott said sneakers remain a strong seller, along with “There isn’t a runway collection that didn’t start and even bracelets” to make a style statement. luxury shoes, with men gravitating toward models to show more accessories within their core offer- Kalenderian said “on the heels of a big increase with burnishing and other high-end details. He also ing to complete the total picture and dip their toes for the last few years, spring 2015 is continuing to singled out large and small leather goods, belts, into a [profitable] business category,” said Tom show high-double-digit increases in men’s accesso- cuff links, lapel pins and items such as key chains as Kalenderian, executive vice president and general ries” especially in leather goods, bags and luggage “meaningful businesses,” while pocket squares have merchandise manager of men’s wear for Barneys. as well as sunglasses, jewelry, headwear and belts. overtaken ties for the more formal outfits. That, coupled with “the emergence of more and Top brands include Valextra small leather goods, Nelson Mui, men’s fashion director for Hud- more accessories in highly blogged street-style Balenciaga bags, Rimowa luggage, Oliver Peoples son’s Bay and Lord & Taylor, said bags are the trend reports, have all contributed to the strong sunglasses, Catherine Zadeh bracelets, Just Don leading category at the stores, namely backpacks, interest in acquiring just the right accessories.” hats and Barneys private label belts, he said. “followed by slim briefs and duffels and elevated The casualization of office culture is contributing Tom Ott, senior vice president and gmm of messengers.” Leather briefs from Jack Spade and as well, he said, as work and off-duty wardrobes men’s wear at Saks Fifth Avenue, said accessories Ted Baker are performing at Hudson’s Bay, while blend. “We see ath-leisure influencing men more areas are being enhanced at the New York City Michael Kors bags are selling at Lord & Taylor. and more every day,” Kalenderian said. “Back- flagship as well as the Chicago and Beverly Hills Colorful card cases and bracelets with beaded, packs are the leading bag classification, along with men’s stores and branches in Atlanta, Houston braided and metal options are all trending, too. designer sneakers.” Even the “dandy” dresser is and Boca Raton, Fla. Many see a simple explanation for the growth in

68 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM David Katz, executive vice president and chief “From the fashion aspect, men are learning that the marketing officer for Randa Accessories, which has a 70 percent share of the men’s accessories market

Agenda right finishing touch is key to completing an outfit.” in the U.S. with brands such as Kenneth Cole, Levi’s, — DURAND GUION, MACY’S INC. Geoffrey Beene and Perry Ellis, said neckwear, wal- lets and belts are among the most popular categories for guys today. Specifically, skinny ties are trending and bow ties have grown to represent 15 to 18 per- bags and similar items: Men are just carrying more Unis said in 2010, men’s product centered cent of the business. In addition, men are matching stuff. “Men are definitely buying more trend-in- around briefcases, wallets and belts, but the their belts to their shoes more than ever today, spired accessories as they are quickly starting company made a concerted effort to expand the boosting business in that category, and suspenders to understand the concept of function versus assortment and distribution. are performing at retail. Wallets are slimming down fashion,” said Durand Guion, vice president and Half of the business still comes from bags, Unis and lapel pins and pocket squares have also started men’s fashion director for Macy’s. “He is simply said, with 25 percent from wallets and card cases. to “move the needle recently,” Katz said. carrying multiple and larger personal electronics. The rest is specialty accessories and the brand’s There appears to be little end in sight to the He feels the need to have these with him at all new outerwear collection. “Our newest entrant is growth as retailers and fashion houses see huge times and they can no longer fit comfortably into men’s footwear, which launched for fall ’14,” he said. potential in everything from backpacks to footwear a front or back pocket, so the need for bags and Backpacks are the fastest-growing item as guys view to, in the case of Shinola, leather-covered journals portfolios is amplified. From the fashion aspect, it as the “go-to bag” that allows them to keep their and watches. Admittedly the men’s accessories men are learning that the right finishing touch is tech accessories organized and their hands free. market continues to be dwarfed by the size of the key to completing an outfit. Even if he cannot buy He said the backpack is a trend globally, but women’s market, but observers say that’s a plus. a new suit, a pocket square or a lapel pin provides internationally there are “some nuances” when “It’s not a crowded landscape in men’s like it is an instant update to his look.” it comes to other products. “In China, men like in women’s,” said Ernest Sabin, founder of Ernest Darren Skey, head of men’s wear at Harvey Nich- to carry bags crossbody so messenger bags are Alexander. “So there’s room for opportunity.” ols, called out backpacks “as a key accessory” for proportionately high there,” he said. In Japan, the — With contributions from Aria Hughes, Lorelei the British department store group, with designs standard briefcases are still popular. Marfil, Paulina Szmydke and Alessandra Turra by Balmain and Givenchy leading the way along with jewelry and small leather goods, leather and beaded bracelets, caps and cuff links. Accessories Uptick Elisabeth Miquel, manager of accessories and Total sales increased by 30 percent in two years. luxury buying at French department store Prin-  temps, pointed to tote bags from the likes of Prada, Burberry, Dior and Gucci as strong performers, 2012 2013 2014 Two-year while backpacks are trending regardless of the brand. To cash in on accessories’ growing pop- ularity, Printemps revamped the ground floor $14.8B of its Paris flagship in July 2014, now dedicated 100 percent to the booming category. “Since last O $4.3 summer, we doubled the figures,” Miquel said. Dollar 48% On the luxury end, Balenciaga, Loewe, Fendi Sales and Ferragamo have gotten their own space, with Loewe boasting particularly strong results. Paul Smith and Longchamp were added, while a $12.6B pop-up for jewelry has started testing new waters. Miquel herself is part of a new accessories buying 18% Total Sales team at Printemps, which recently merged its men’s $3.4 and women’s accessories departments to get a bet- $11.5B ter grip on the market. “We used to have one person on the men’s team scouting new accessories, now there are five buyers dedicated to the category,” she Jewelry $2.9 said, noting that integrating the departments made 59% sense seeing how many female brands already have $2.8 or are in the process of branching out into male territory. “Furla launched a men’s line in February, $2.5 Michael Kors is investing heavily into the French Watches $2.4 $2.3 market via men’s accessories,” she said. 7% Brands from Lanvin — with its sneakers — to Coach — with bags and footwear — are enjoying the Sunglasses $2.0 results of the boom and making moves to further $1.9 $2.1 expand their men’s wear sales. Ernest Alexander saw its men’s accessories sales 40% leap 80 percent last year, while Gieves & Hawkes’ rose 31 percent. Byron and Dexter Peart, cofound- $1.7 Bags $1.4 ers of Want Les Essentiels de la Vie, said their business has doubled each of the last two years $1.2 2% as their retail partners increase their penetration $1.1 of accessories. Coach’s men’s accessories sales Belts $1.0 12% totaled $700 million in 2014, a number that rep- $1.1 Small Personal $1.0 resents “explosive growth” from the $100 million it Accessories/SLG $0.8 $0.8 brought in just four years ago, said Greg Unis, the $0.7 company’s global head of men’s merchandising Luggage $0.7 and licensing. Unis sees massive potential: Cur- $0.4 rently, brand awareness of Coach among men is $0.3 58% only in the mid-20 percent range, while it’s in the Gloves/Mittens $0.2 high 70s among women. IBISWorld’s McKittrick said the company is expecting men’s accessories

sales to reach $1 billion by fiscal 2017. The NPD Group Source: Carlos Monteiro; by Infographic

70 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Dean (left) and Dan Caten Agenda

DEAN: There’s no secret — you either are or you aren’t. We’re running constantly and we’re late all the time. DAN: Eat heavier in the morning. What’s the secret of a perfectly fitting jean? DAN: Knowing your body and knowing which jeans to choose for your body. It’s in the cut of the jean and it’s also in your shape. With your body, you should know what works for you. DEAN: We have five different models in our denim. There’s the Dean fit for soccer players because it’s bigger in the thigh. There’s a cool guy fit and a baby brother fit. We name them all on the back so you can always come back to that fit. What’s the secret to your good business partnership? DAN: Communication and knowing stuff. You have to always talk to each other and share. What’s the secret to good drag? DAN: Preparation, hours and hours of labor. If you’re young, a close shave and not too much founda- tion. If you’re older, a closer shave and tons of foundation. When we were young, we could get away with just powder. What’s the secret to two young kids from Toronto moving to Milan and building a business that has fter 20 years, Dan lasted 20 years? and Dean Caten, DEAN: Back to Madonna, it Dan & Dean twin brothers from is the “Twin Ambition.” Canada, still rock the DAN: It’s drive and having Milan fashion scene nothing to lose. withA their unapologetically sexy What’s the secret of the perfect Have a Secret runway shows, larger-than-life runway collection? The Caten twins offer an inside personalities and now-infamous DAN: Balance, cohesiveness, a state- look at their unique psyche. late-night parties in glamorous ment, overall fluidity from one destinations. During a recent trip look to the next that harmonize By ALEX BADIA to New York to host the grand and come out of a whole. opening of their new Dsquared2 DEAN: As a collection. store in SoHo, the pair agreed to What’s your deepest secret? The new SoHo slow down long enough to answer DEAN: If we told you, it wouldn’t be store in New York. a few questions about some of a secret anymore. their deepest, darkest secrets. DAN: It just got…much deeper.

What’s the secret of eternal youth? DEAN: A celebrity dermatologist. DAN: Good skin product. What’s the secret of timeless style? DEAN: Inside you. It’s built in. You either have it or you don’t. DAN: Keeping it simple. What’s the secret of throwing a good party? DEAN: Great friends, a good mix of a crowd is important, a good mix of music and lots of Champagne. What’s the secret to fitting into Mary J. Blige at the 20th-anniversary

sample size? runway show in Milan in January. Giannoni Giovanni Chinsee; Blige by George by photograph Store

72 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Portrait by STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE 74

APRIL 29, 2015 Agenda SEANO’PRY TOM BRADY Agentry PR — Erin the industry.” individuals in personable engaging and one of themost but heisalso and campaigns, men’s a constant face at Not onlyishe American style. embodies “Sean O’Pry — BillyReid explanation.” “Needs no

WWD.COM w H ear sho awker, w s R unnin VICTOR CRUZ — EricJennings, Saks recently Tokyo.” w actively engagedinthemen’s fashion has akeen eye for trends andhasbeen a ne for Men’s NYFW: becauseherepresents “Victor By By vote-getters. Here’s ofthetop-10 alist whom theywould pick. survey asto industry anonscientific, conducted be heldJuly 13to16. WWD the firsteditionofwhich will York Fashion Week: Men’s, ing anambassador forNew seek- is Designers ofAmerica ofFashionThe Council men’sof American wear? Who should betheface eeks inEurope, Ne JIMMYFALLON w JEAN E. PALMIERI In “He embodiesthespiritof Ne — Rosalind Drisko, Nautica andhehasgreatCity style.” generation of stylish athletes, w ould beagreat ambassador w York andmost F NICKWOOSTER ifth Avenue — Tommy and foremost.” w w ambassador “You needan Project t ith style first ho isassociated w York he F azio, g HARRIS NEILPATRICK w of thecameras for w Neil Patrick Harris] need aman[like “Seems like you Barneys New York — Tom w in thefront ro along atching sho hat heis ho isoften infront PHARRELLWILLIAMS — ShimonOvadia, Ovadia &Sons figure for Ne he’s doing, andIthinkhe icon as “Pharrell isnot onlya music iconbutafashion w K ith being alenderian, w earing w w w ell. People payattention to

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O’Pry photograph by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for H&M; Fallon by Mr Photoman/Splash News/Corbis; Cruz by Steve Eichner; Williams by Frederick M. Brown/WireImage; Harris by Ray Tamarra/WireImage; Elgort by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images; Westbrook by Jenna Greene; Wooster by Noam Galai/Getty Images; Brady by Bob Levey/Getty Images; Jonas by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for iHeartMedia O Since being discovered in a store in Model Call: Amsterdam at 17, Jeroen Smits has taken the men’s modeling business by storm, walking the runways for everyone from Gucci to

Agenda Jeroen Smits Canali. But he’s more than just a striking Age: 21 Height: 6’2” Hair: Blonde Eyes: Blue Hometown: Amsterdam Agency: VNY Model Management Instagram: @jeroensmits94 face; he’s a deft conversationalist as well, reminiscing about his time as a professional cyclist, making it in New York City, and his current obsession — becoming a chef. By LUIS CAMPUZANO

How were you How old were you? graduating class. They Do you have any favor- casual feel, I really like J. don’t enjoy working out, discovered? I was about to turn 17, had a whole collection, ite designers? Crew a lot. then you have a very big I was walking with my but I didn’t do anything and I did that to get This is always a hard problem as a model. mom and my sister in for about three years, some experience and one for me. Personally, I What do you do to stay in Amsterdam, doing a because I was still in exposure. really like Canali, partly shape? If you weren’t a model, little shopping, and then school. I used to be a because I have done Cycling from time to what would you like to suddenly [the man who professional cyclist; I What was your first big the show for five or six time — I try to go to be doing? is] my mother agent didn’t have enough time. runway experience? seasons in a row, the the gym at least three I want to open my own now tapped me on the In my first season, I only team is extremely nice, times a week — running, restaurant in the future shoulder and asked, “Do What was your first did the Milan shows. The and the material and the playing basketball and a somewhere. I’m actually you want to become a modeling job? first one was Jil Sander, quality of the clothing lot of outdoor activities studying to be a chef model?” A student fashion followed by Gucci. It was is, in my eyes, extremely are mainly the best way right now.

show in Holland, for the a good starting point. well crafted. For a more to stay in shape. If you NY at ArtList using Oribe Haircare George Joey by Grooming

76 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photograph by LUKE ABBY Briefs

ACCESSORIES HOT ITEM Ghurka’s Roots OThis year marks the 40th Buddy Bull anniversary of Ghurka, a leather goods brand Terrier Hi that was inspired by the Retail price: $230 sold at Kith NYC venerable British Brigade of Gurkhas regiment, which The best-selling shoe, in itself is celebrating its gray, is handmade in Japan 200th birthday in 2015. To commemorate both using high-quality materials. milestones, Ghurka has The rubber is one of Japan’s opened its first London shop inside Fortnum & main exports, which gives Mason, which offers its heritage to this model. “We full collection of leather goods. The shop is also feel like this shoe is playing offering a special capsule on the trend of cupsole/ COMEBACK collection that the brand designed in partnership court shoes,” said Kith NYC Cesarani Plots His with the Gurkha Welfare assistant buyer Victor Kan. Return Trust, an organization Carhartt’s TV Debut that provides resources OSal Cesarani has teamed with Real men don’t need gyms. to retired Gurkha soldiers. William Fung of Loft 604 to create a line Twenty-five percent of the of sweaters under the Cesarani Brown That’s the message from Carhartt, proceeds from the sale label for spring 2016. the American workwear brand, of the capsule — which The collection will be shown at the MRket includes a hand-num- show in New York in July and will be targeted which partnered with World Series bered limited-edition duf- to better department and specialty stores MVP and San Francisco Giants fle, backpack and holdall in the U.S. and Canada, he said. The in the Gurkha’s regimental sweaters will be in all-natural fibers pitcher Madison Bumgarner on colors of green and red including cotton, linen, silk and cash- its spring 2014 ad campaign. — will go to the organi- mere and will be priced at $90 to $175 zation. They will sell for wholesale. There will be four groupings: The commercial features Bumgarner $2,495, $1,695 and $550, Marina, Mountain, Tennis and Athletic. doing chores around his North respectively. Ghurka has also created an Officer’s Carolina ranch wearing Carhartt’s Field Set consisting of a Force apparel, along with on-the-job, leather footlocker, chairs and an umbrella that will blue-collar workers. The brand pokes retail for $17,500. fun at the current hype around Much pomp and circumstance is being the activewear arena with this tag planned around the line: “These guys don’t need Spin Gurkha regiment’s anniversary including class. They are the working class.” a Royal dinner at the “This year’s campaign and tag line Royal Hospital Chelsea on June 9, a Mounting of celebrates the notion that united the Guard at Buckingham we outwork them all,” said Carhartt’s Palace and an attempt by the Brigade of Gurkhas creative director Brian Bennett. to summit Mount Everest. “We worked with baseball star Madison Bumgarner and his family to see how they tackle ranch life HOLDALL as a family and crew.”

THE CHART DUFFEL RETAIL brands in the store, 22 Male with the higher-end Percentage Men’s Wear Represents DXL in NYC are found only at DXL in Rochester labels. At Major Department Stores extended sizes. Levin said when the DXL ODestination XL has DXL, which is the name- concept was launched in landed in New York City. plate on the store, is the 2010, it was conceived as Average 22% BACKPACK The big and tall men’s growth vehicle for the Mas- a superstore with units that 19% retailer has opened its sachusetts-based group, averaged 10,000 square 18% 17% 18% 16% 17% first store in Manhattan, a which operates 353 stores feet or more. Since then, 7,800-square-foot unit in around the country under the company has found 12% the Flatiron District that the Casual Male, Rochester that a more efficient size boasts brands including and DXL names. The retailer is around 8,000 square Polo, Peter Millar, Tommy is slowly converting or clos- feet, and it is also testing Hilfiger and even Brooks ing the Casual Male stores, a 5,000-square-foot-store Brothers. Chief executive and by the end of the year, option. These “5Ks” are officer David Levin said: Levin said, the company will in smaller markets and Belk Bon-Ton Dillard’s J.C. Kohl’s Macy’s Nordstrom Stage Penney “It took us years to have have 180 DXL stores, which “can make as much cash brands make clothes for blend the brands found at flow” as the larger stores,

Source: Telsey Advisory Group us.” Out of the 58 apparel the more moderate Casual Levin said. Carlos Monteiro by Infographic

78 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM MADISON AVE | RODEO DRIVE | LAS VEGAS | AVENTURA MALL 5 PROBLEMS, 1 SOLUTION SEE HAIR STRONGER, SHINIER

BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.TM BeautyAgenda EDITED BY PETE BORN Revlon’s Quest For Love CEO Lorenzo Delpani wants a new relationship with the consumer. By MOLLY PRIOR

orenzo Delpani is determined to run a new kind of Revlon. He’s no fan of the con- THE POWER OF BEAUTIFUL HAIR. stant product churn along the cosmetics wall in chain stores, calling the industry’s EVERY DAY. “hyper-innovation syndrome” Jennifer Lopez for L’Oréal Paris La disease that creates turn but not repeat sales. In the past, Revlon has been guilty of heralding a series of one-hit wonders, and then quickly shifting resources and marketing support to the next big thing. “My management team and I are redesigning the whole go-to-market strategy for the brand— from a positioning standpoint, a marketing standpoint and a consumer standpoint. The key priorities for this company are about improving the innovation model,” said Delpani, president ©2015 L’Oréal USA, Inc. 1 and chief executive officer of Revlon Inc. “It is WEAK TOTAL coming to market with fewer, bigger, better, incremental innovation. That’s my motto. Many companies are saying that, but nobody is doing 2 it — and most importantly — definitely not in the DRY beauty industry right now. That’s the core problem WITH THE POWER OF CERAMIDE of the industry and for Revlon,” he said. “Doing — FIGHTS 5 SIGNS OF DAMAGE* fewer is easy. It’s about choosing to do less. The 3 DULL difficulty is to choose what you will bet on. But HAIR FEELS STRONG, HEALTHY part of my fewer, better strategy is the creation — FROM ROOT TO TIP of true blockbuster initiatives that can become the focus of the investment model and also push 4 ROUGH THE POWER OF BEAUTIFUL HAIR. for growth.” EVERY DAY. Delpani also is out to stop another type of churn at Revlon — the revolving door of ceo's under the 5 firm’s chairman Ronald O. Perelman, who is also SPLIT ENDS #PowerOn chairman and ceo of MacAndrews & Forbes Hold- ings Inc. Delpani is the eighth ceo that Perelman *When using complete system of has installed at the firm over the 30 years that he shampoo, conditioner, and treatment. has owned Revlon. In Lorenzo Delpani’s His two most recent predecessors Alan Ennis first year as chief executive officer, and David Kennedy, whose tenures spanned Revlon’s market nearly a decade, were largely seen as profes- capitalization grew to sional managers. Both brought deep financial $1.78 billion. experience, having each served as Revlon’s chief financial officer at different points in their career

80 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photographs by DANNY KIM Get the 1 solution at AdvancedHaircare.com at the company, but neither one could jump-start Delpani’s Value Creation Strategy relies on four professional segment of the business recorded a meaningful market share growth. pillars, which are to manage financial drivers 17.1 percent sales increase to $117.7 million in the Delpani breaks that mold. He sees himself as for value creation, to grow profitability through quarter. a marketer with a penchant for innovation. And intensive innovation and geographical expansion, Delpani plans to move the consumer brands Agenda he’s already making some progress. The market to improve cash flows and to attract and support to a growth track by changing the way different capitalization of the company grew to $1.78 billion employees who foster the company’s mission. functions work. During a tour of the company’s from $1.2 billion from Nov. 1, 2013, to Nov. 1, 2014 The strategy includes expanding gross profit offices, Delpani said he is in the process of aligning — Delpani’s first year as ceo. It has continued to margin and eliminating non-value-added gen- product development and marketing together, as Beauty grow. The market cap was $2.01 billion on April 17. eral and administrative costs; creating fewer, they were at Colomer and past companies he has “I am a ceo who has an incredible marketing bigger and better innovations across the brands; worked for. and innovation focus and that by itself is a change improving cash flow through, among other things, “When I came onboard, after a very deep for Revlon,” said Delpani, who took the helm in effective management of working capital and diagnostic, I aligned myself with the board. We late 2013 following the acquisition of The Colomer with appropriate return on capital spending, wanted to go for a complete revitalization. I call Group, where he was ceo and managing director. and attracting and developing people within the it a transformation,” he said. He was hired by the private equity firm CVC Cap- organization who will drive the company’s vision. On a recent spring day, Delpani dressed casu- ital Partners to overhaul the Colomer business, At Revlon, 46-year-old Delpani hasn’t shied ally in an untucked, black button-down Polo shirt which it purchased from Revlon in 2000. He away from making sweeping changes. and black slacks as he detailed the path forward succeeded in growing the net enterprise value Shortly after assuming the top post, Delpani for Revlon. of Colomer by 10 times, and attracting Revlon relocated the beauty firm from its midtown Man- He is bent on building a relationship with consumers, not simply a transaction. The goal: give consumers a reason Revlon’s Revolving Door to love the brands again. Lorenzo Delpani is the latest in a parade of chief executive officers who have taken turns leading “I am positioning the Revlon during the 30-year ownership of Ronald O. Perelman. brands so that they are clearer, stronger and more meaningful for the consumer,” Delpani said. “The quest for mean- ing is universal,” he con- tinued. “That’s why we spend a lot of time and Sol Levine Jerry Levin George Fellows Jeffrey Nugent Jack Stahl David Kennedy Alan Ennis energy and passion in cre- 1985 to 1991 1991 to 1997 1997 to 1999 1999 to 2002 2002 to 2006 2006 to 2009 2009 to 2013 ating a meaning behind Once a member of Oversaw the dives- Introduced a Implemented a three- Ramped up invest- Brought order and A numbers wiz with founder Charles titure of noncore restructuring plan, part turnaround ment behind the discipline to the a strong command our brand. In the case Revson’s inner circle, assets at Revlon but drugstore con- effort characterized Revlon brand with business, slowing over the business of Revlon it is venturing Levine solidified the and streamlined solidation worsened by cost rational- ambitious product the product pipeline operations, but he into Love Is On [market- cosmetics base with the business as the company’s dismal ization through the launches and to fix past wrongs. couldn’t get Revlon ing effort], in the case of acquisitions such as well as the devel- business perfor- consolidation of improved in-store But compelling new and Almay growing Max Factor. He also opment of key new mance. He left with manufacturing and displays, but heralded innovation suffered again. Almay it is making people beefed up research brand concepts millions in excess reduction of over- one-hit wonders as a result. proud of the American WHEN IT’S TIME and development and such as ColorStay. inventory piled up. head, but progress (some of which heritage of the brand, quickened the pace He was transferred was slow and market fell flat, like Vital of product launches. to salvage other share continued to Radiance) without and for [the deodorant But the company companies owned shrink. growing sales across brand] Mitchum it’s about TO GET SERIOUS ABOUT became overloaded by Perelman. the core range and performance.” with brands. lost space at key retailers. He continued, “To be loved a brand must have WRINKLES IT’S TIME FOR intangibles. It can be glamorous and bold, and ® enough to buy back the business. hattan headquarters to sleek, sunlit offices at the pretty much every brand in the industry is glam- RoC RETINOL Delpani said the turnaround at Colomer, which southern tip of the island. From his perch on the orous and bold. We looked for a different space, took place between 2007 and 2013, was based on 50th floor with panoramic harbor views, he’s which I believe is the true meaning of the brand. a business model and strategic framework that is worked to swiftly integrate the two companies, I call this one step to happiness… You can believe similar to the one he is in the process of deploying creating the consumer division, where brands in many things, but love is a universal motivator at Revlon. He’s also quick to point out that Revlon from the Revlon business live, and the professional and value.” is a totally different company than the pre-acqui- division, which houses the Colomer portfolio, As for whether Love Is On, which launched in sition Colomer, affected by different market and including American Crew and CND (Creative Nail November, has turned on sales, he said, “Initial 1 WEEK fi ne lines are less visible economic dynamics. Design Inc.), among others. signs are positive. I expect more….It will take “The key has been the development and suc- some time.” cessful drive of our strategy of value creation with e brought in his handpicked manage- Through his lens, Revlon’s marketing effort 1 MONTH deep wrinkles look smoother a special focus and emphasis on the development ment team, which includes key hires Love Is On isn’t really a campaign; it’s a complete and diffusion of innovation. Among many other such as Benjamin Karsch, executive repositioning of the brand and what it stands for. initiatives, at Colomer, we launched Shellac, In the past, Revlon has heralded glamour and 1 YEAR skin is transformed* Hvice president and chief marketing Vinylux, Orofluido, Uniq One, Style Masters and officer of Revlon Consumer Division, celebrity above all else. But not anymore. relaunched American Crew. We created very and Gianni Pieraccioni, executive vice president He continued, “I really believe that brands must successful innovation that fueled growth behind and global president of Revlon Consumer Division. take a side. The brands that don’t take sides get these key brands,” he continued. “Despite very He replaced the team assembled by Ennis blurred. They mean the same thing that other adverse market headwinds, Colomer more than almost entirely, promoting several executives brands mean and they can only succeed if they doubled its profits, enabling [the company] to from Colomer, which raised a few eyebrows of have a huge amount of resources.” repay debt, improve the quality of its brand industry watchers. One financial observer said Delpani, who after three weeks of brainstorming portfolio and significantly increase Colomer’s net the numbers so far have been good, but driven in ideas, discovered the word love within the word enterprise value.” large part by the Colomer business, as the Revlon Revlon. The idea, he said, is that women open As he plans to do at Revlon, Delpani narrowed brands continue to struggle. themselves up to the possibility of love when the focus in hopes of making a bigger impact. “At In Revlon’s most recently reported quarter they wear makeup. “If you are open, everything *Clinical results on Night Cream. ©Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. 2015. Colomer, I divested 30 percent of the portfolio ended Dec. 31, total company net sales for the is possible,” he said. ™ [between products and countries], so growth period gained 1.9 percent to $501 million from The effort includes a digital billboard in Times was to drive more on the bottom line. But in the $491 million. Sales in its consumer segment — Square that streams updated romantic images of end, it was a portfolio of fewer, better brands,” which includes the Revlon brands — fell 1.8 per- people and photos snapped from a camera sta- Delpani said. cent to $383.3 million in the quarter, while the tioned in Times Square, which telecasts the images RoC® RETINOL CORREXION® HIGH PERFORMANCE SKINCARE™

82 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM onto the pulsing billboard overhead. He has taken a similar approach to Almay, which the previous management team struggled to turn around. Delpani acknowledged Almay is a more Agenda distressed brand, but noted it’s smaller in size than it may seem and warrants less marketing resources. Delpani tapped Carrie Underwood and a new Beauty tag line, Simply American, to breathe new life into the brand. “The meaning of the Almay brand is about American beauty. It’s not a London look or REVEAL LAYERS OF LASHES FOR THE a Paris look….The new concept is getting traction and a positive response,” he said. “But the true growth of market share and true growth of any business comes only if you have repeat purchases….It’s about getting the innova- SENSATIONAL tion to be tried by the consumer, have them expe- rience it and like it, and then have them repeat the purchase. These are the real basic fundamentals. Sometimes they are neglected because they are so simple, but they are far from being simple to NEW FULL FAN execute.”

n 2014, Revlon increased advertising spend- ing by $38.1 million, representing a 10.8 percent increase over the prior year, on a EFFECT. Ipro forma basis, which assumes the Colomer brands were part of the Revlon portfolio for the entire year. On an actual basis, total advertis- ing spending in 2014 was $383.2 million, up from $278.5 million in the prior year. His career, which began at Procter & Gamble in H

Italy in 1992, included posts at Reckitt Benckiser S and Johnson & Johnson. Delpani fluently speaks

four languages and spends 30 to 40 percent of his U time traveling. A conference room near his corner office was R

filled with products — with some non-beauty items B among them — that he lugged home in suitcases

from his travels to places like Japan, South Korea

and Brazil. G Another bin of beauty products sat in his office

with Post-it notes detailing what he liked about N

each one. One read, “premium product, both I masculine and feminine.” Another stated, “A little

sweet but interesting.” N

For Delpani, the fewer, bigger, better concept Delpani in his N

can be applied to every aspect of the business, harbor-view office.

including investment priorities inside each coun- A

F F F F F F F F F F F F F F

try and its geographic reach. One of Delpani’s first NEW F

major actions as ceo was to shutter Revlon’s busi- of the process.” in December 2014 after raising safety concerns

ness in China, where the firm was losing money. Revlon’s Pieraccioni, who like Delpani has pre- and also discriminated against for being Jewish.

“China was a business unit where I didn’t need viously worked at P&G and J&J, described Delpani Perelman quickly came to Delpani’s defense, ™

LASH

any more time to figure out what to do,” he said, as an inclusive, involved manager. “He passes calling the allegations that he made disparaging

remarks against Jews, blacks and Americans

“absurd and offensive.”

“It’s about getting the innovation to be tried by the

By March, Revlon and Meyers had reached

sensational

a settlement, with Revlon stating the case was consumer, have them experience it and like it, and “amicably resolved.” FULL FAN EFFECT MASCARA then have them repeat the purchase.” Delpani is ready to put the unpleasantness behind him. After all, he’s got work to do. Reflect- ing on 2014, he said, “In the first year, I would Our UNIQUE FANNING BRUSH adding Revlon was losing money in the country from creative to strategy to execution flawlessly… say the deployment of my full strategy is at 20 with 10 LAYERS OF BRISTLES. Inner despite putting a great deal of resources into the He is very much hands-on which is a reflection percent. There’s still a lot more transformation market. “Would we consider China in the future? of his passion for the business,” said Pieraccioni, to go.” bristles reach to reveal layers of lashes. Maybe. But we’d have to do it with a completely adding that he only “sticks his nose into things He added, “If anything, my biggest frustration is Outer bristles unfold. For a truly different business model.…The problem is that the where he can add value” such as marketing and that this change cannot be faster. The frustration gross margin was insufficient to cover the cost of international matters. comes from the fact that if you want to execute a SIMULATION OF PRODUCT sensational full fan eff ect. marketing in the channel.” He added, “I look at He also nodded to his stamina, recalling that strategy, you want to see if it is working or not. all the business fundamentals and we didn’t see after a snowstorm delayed Delpani’s return trip Doing fewer, bigger, better takes time. So the full RESULTS ON LASHES ENHANCED a light at the end of the tunnel, so we switched to New York, Pieraccioni’s job interview began at impact of this model can take two or three years off the light.” midnight and lasted three hours. minimum to start to see the full bloom.” WITH LASH INSERTS. He is quick to point out this fewer, bigger, better “That’s his style — he is very much focused on He may be impatient, but he’s also determined. strategy also applies to people. the end result,” Pieraccioni said. “My purpose is to get Revlon back to the love MAYBELLINE.com “Part of the process is upgrading the people. Delpani’s tenure at Revlon has not been with- mark status that it deserves.…It is to a large extent The people who embrace change and have the out controversy. In January, a former employee, still loved and respected. But it’s not as quintes- talent to work with it, they are having a good Alan Meyers, a former chief scientific officer at sential and iconic as it was and therefore I want ride right now. And some don’t, and that’s part Revlon, filed a lawsuit alleging that he was fired to bring it back to that status.”

84 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Christy is wearing New Lash Sensational™ Full Fan Effect Mascara in Very Black. ©2015 Maybelline LLC. 86

APRIL 29, 2015 BeautyAgenda D Here, some items forskin, hairandnails: argan oilbecause it’s acids.” higherinantioxidants andfatty “It’scare brandDrunkElephant. better performingthan saidTiffany Masterson,moisturizing,” founderofnicheskin- shown to healtheskin andhelpwithburns,antiaging prizedfor itshydratingand is benefits.“Ithasbeen clinically products.Itcomesfrombeauty thenut insidemarulafruit O Trending Now R on Oscar night, usingtheAcademy night, on Oscar Awards red Higuerasaid. especially onInstagram,” don’t get asmuchandengagement, interaction laser inonaproductorhow toget you alook, “As soonasyou andyou take don’t outtheutility “Do you love lookorthat?”polls,andhow-tos. this suchas interactive contentwitha call-to-action, followers platforms: ofsocial across itsspectrum resonated million mostwithitsbaseofabouttwo sumers. L’Oréal ofcontent types found thattwo insightsforcon- beauty late themintoactionable goings-oninto thereal-timeandtrans- red-carpet platforms.Thegoal ofsocial wastotap a variety — anddeployed 40and50peopleacross between sponsor Globes—ofwhich anofficial Golden itis speed ofculture.” L’Oréal “We Paris. have toprovide contentatthe Higuera, seniorvicepresident ofmarketing for assessing theirefforts. Tony Awards onJune rises 7, curtain brandsare on themajorHollywood events andbefore the media platforms.Now thatthestardust hassettled

Dove, too, issued a call to action toconsumers Dove, toaction too, acall issued year,This L’Oréal onthe focuseditsefforts “We live inaninsta-world,” saidMalena WWD.COM Marula oil is thelatestMarula oilis ingredient cropping upinaslew of eal-Ti By By marketers are honingtheirapproach tomedia. social After afreneticawards red-carpet season,massbeauty JENNY B. out theirmessages onmyriad social and hairmakeuptopush artists lized anarmy ofexperts, influencers marketersseason, massbeauty mobi- awardsuring thelatestred-carpet F INE Marula Oil m e R ules banner ad. or soforatypical rate, versus 1percent 10 percent conversion CoverGirl generated a campaign above. connections intheirGrammy CoverGirl plays upitsmusic toTweeterscould talk oneby one,”saidBremner. guage beingused,sothatourteamandexperts an algorithm negative thathelpsusidentify lan- brand’s partnershipwithTwitter. created “They its marketing. Butwhattimewasthe wasnewthis Dove’s message ofempowerment amainstay is of Bremner, Dove’s directorofmarketing. Granted, negative andbody aboutbeauty image. tweets Dove, lastyear women sentmore thanfive million Accordingand Twittercampaign. toresearch from launchedcampaign withaconcurrent spot TV physical media,the looksthatpermeatessocial about Designed tocombattheculture ofcriticism tokickoffits#SpeakBeautiful campaign. carpet Dove alsoworked withTwitteronvariousforms “We’re toinspire trying change,” saidJennifer brittle, weak nailsonhandsand feet. Available inthree scents. Strengthens andhydrates Marula CuticleOil Ciaté London

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social commerce.”social it works. products andtipsdrive thattoe-commerce, ture momentsandtranslate themintoactionable you take real can looksthatare relevant inpopcul- a traditionaladbuywould provide,” she said.“If bannerad.“Itwas10timeswhat so foratypical percent conversion rate,versus onepercent or but she didsay thattheprogram garnered a10 behavior. Theydon’t wanttowait.” close thesale,which plays toacurrent consumer forP&G.of globalcosmetics “We were ableto Bracey,looks,” saidEsiEggleston vicepresident looksandyouthe [red-carpet] couldshop the mediacontentshoppable.its social “We re-created Bloom.ForLash thefirsttime,brandrendered Full tolaunchbroadcast called itslatestmascara, mediaduringthe and usedtraditionaldigital line wasamainsponsoroftheGrammy Awards, makeupin sales.TheProcter&Gamble-owned withanupward mediaefforts season social tick period theyear before. Tweets versus aboutbeauty week thesametwo therethe Oscars, were 43 percent fewer negative weeksthe brandwasabletoassessthattwo after withsalestrends,Beautiful campaign she said ing a30secondad,theyare more apttoengage.” asopposed towatch- something quick andvisual, getcan amessage inacoupleofseconds,with higher engagement,” Bremner said.“Ifconsumers momentsenabledustogetof themostimpactful “Instead ofpushing outtheentire [ad],usingclips with negative sayings topple oneaftertheother. to GIFs ofdominosstamped where acascade standards setby mediaare social unrealistic” insights like “82 percent ofwomen feelthebeauty of messaging—from Twitter“stat cards” featuring “That,” concluded Eggleston Bracey, concludedEggleston “That,” today’s “is Braceywouldn’tEggleston divulge numbers, For Cover itspart, Girl wasabletolinkitsawards While Bremnerthe#Speak- declinedtoconnect reduce wrinklesandredness. This unrefined, chemical-and fragrance-free oilissaidto Virgin MarulaLuxury Drunk Elephant Facial Oil

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APRIL 29, 2015 BeautyAgenda O consumer. buy thematretail, like any most promising. will WWD to themarket andamongthe Scents beingjudgedare new to ensure independentthinking. which willbekept anonymous critiques of eachfragrance, score computed. (forgettable), withanaverage scale of 10(theultimate) to 1 fragrance willbescored ona in ablind, test. impartial The vials of fragrance to smell to consumers. of theindustry, from perfumers jurors represent various facets chairman MichaelEdwards, the world order. Headedby panel nuances of perfumery’s new olfactory quality, revealing the judge various scentsfor their fragrance experts whowill ofassembled ajury world-class transformative times, has WWD Keeping instep By that’s driven launches inthepast. rather thanthehigh-pitched marketing backonthejuice, puttheemphasis They’ve shakingis upthefragranceindustry. Chanel Misia The Smell Test: “Trying tobeperceived“Trying as with anicework behind.” The judgeswillmake short Panelists are given unmarked World" and"Perfume Legends." agency Austin AdvisoryGroup.

PETE BORN A newgeneration developers ofproduct WWD.COM ‘vintage,’ butsmellsnice ‘vintage,’ Author of "Fragrances of the Ceo of storytelling sensory Michael Edwards ultimately abitboring.” Paul Austin smoothly but crafted, withthese “Plush, stylish, “Plush, stylish, Jean-Claude Delville Senior perfumer atDrom.Senior perfumer Founder andceo of Sniffapalooza. Karen Dubin woven together by thehand “A brocade chicolfactory of amasterperfumer.” its comforting lipstick scent, but lipstickscent, its comforting “Elegant, polished, nostalgic in nostalgic polished, “Elegant, it lacked theexcitement and emotion tomove me.” Fragrance industry analyst and Christophe Laudamiel Bois deJasmineditor. Victoria Frolova Master perfurmer at DreamAir. very nice sophisticated very nicesophisticated and polished feeling.” and polished “This fragrancehasa “This Owner of training andevaluation Nathalie Pichard Chantal Roos agency Topnotes. Roos &Roos Co. Co-creator of Photograph by critic for arabia.style.com. Biophysicist andperfume Kevin Verspoor PerfumeKev LLC. Luca Turin Founder of GEORGE C THE VERDICT: international perfumery. Polge, oneof thefastest-rising stars of formula abitboringandlacking emotion. Some panelmembers, however, found the cated andnicely madewithavintage feel. scent inablindtest aselegant, sophisti- Es H little traceinone'smemory." itleaves competent, technically "Though well-crafted, INSEE Avg Score WWD.com/beauty-industry-news How would you rate thefragrance? Visit out of 10 7.2 t feat ofexecution.” impression, andquite a “Quite atrip, quite an ee Styling byStyling m fragrance houseby Olivier maiden effort atthestoried Exclusifs deChanel. Itisa Test reviews Misiafrom Les The first editionof TheSmell

The judgesdescribedthis the sametime.” yet modern,at “Smells vintage, ed Jud but notmodern.” “Not uninteresting, elegant-smelling.” “Expensive, richand RAC H EL STIC g to vote. to es K LEY

Illustrations by Kate Copeland © 2015 Revlon 2015 © IS ON IS ROMANCE EMMA STONE GLADIOLUS. HD WEARS 20 high-defi for Revolutionary LIPSTICK NEW Ultra HD™ Lipstick HD™ Ultra true color clarity NEW Revlon REVLON ULTRAHD nitionshadesto love. wax-free VS. inonesmoothswipe.

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“IS NOT“IS AKISSTHE VERY AUTOGRAPH OFLOVE? HENRY FINCK, AUTHOR ” 90

APRIL 29, 2015 BeautyAgenda

WWD.COM Anatomy of: The Now Brow By By O overpowering.” than thehair, enhanceswithout noting,“This in brows acoupleshades withapencil lighter young and beautiful. Sweet William likes tofill hesaid. sticking out,” should “There neverthe stragglers. beany hair thenhebrushesbulk out, themdown andsnips brushes brows upandcutsthetoplinetotake the technique, which eliminatesany strays: he First, brows. Sweet Williamknown trimming is forhis he sniffs. look eitherpermanentlyorexcited,” surprised round brow (or, worse yet, thecomma).“You’ll brow,” addedSweet William. Beware ofthe bone curves,which gives theillusion ofacurved rather thandown toward brow themouth.“The over thepupilandextending outtoward theear has itnaturally.” their arches up, togive themmore face.Cara a generous topush eyelid. peopletry “Usually York. alsocounterbalancedby Thethicknessis the resident eyebrow atBarneys New specialist classic,saidRoberther face,is Sweet William, which framefor formsalmostaheart-shaped Cara Delevingne’s brow butitsshape, thick, is brows have becomeabigbusiness. omnipresent scene—and onthestyle Since then,Delevingne hasbecome arched brow onfulldisplay. —is dom —that big,bushy, perfectly hertothat catapulted supermodel- sunglasses. Buteven then,thefeature Delevingne sported baby blue back in2011,athen-unknown Cara Effect The Cara SOURCE: THENPDGROUP in 2011. the category posted double the$75million reaching $154million— year-over-year in 2014, increased 34percent the U.S. prestige market eyebrow products in NPD Group, salesof According to The Ka Dark brows are unflattering onallbutthemost There’s never ahairoutofplaceonDelevingne’s Brows should always arching bestraight, slightly In her first Burberry campaign campaign In herfirstBurberry - Ching! JENNY B. F Top Five Brow Brands INE Anastasia Beverly Hills in theU.S. Prestige Benefit Cosmetics Market in2014 and Lancôme Clinique ANNA DYSINGER MAC 4 3 2 5 1

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McMenamy BeautyAgenda Hepburn Audrey Audrey Kristen 1954 922001 1992 model’s brows for anAnnaSuishow, Thick andstraight andtapered just a lookthatbecamesymbolic of the 310-273-3155 Bedford438 North Drive waiting list inhertony salon. Soare has afour-month HILLS (PICTURED) AT ANASTASIA BEVERLY Anastasia Soare BEVERLY HILLS guide to top tweezers. WWD’s coast-to-coast Gurus The Brow zeitgeist.beauty helped define theSeventies MacGraw's aunaturel style air of sardonic sexiness, whileAli super skinny brow addedto her a great brow. MarleneDietrich's to riseto fame onthestrength of Cara Delevingne wasn’t thefirst Chronicles The Eyebrow great momentsinbrow history. decade-by-decade guideto so, asseenonthestar inthefilm “Sabrina,” quicklybecomes the F

rançois Nars shaved off the WWD.COM standard of elegance. grunge era. H ere, a 972-523-9921 8335 Westchester Drive izes inwaxing andtinting. Dallas’ arch guruspecial- AT SALON BOUTIQUE Cindy DiMaggio DALLAS 310-205-2600 9278 CivicCenter Drive and natural withsoft edges. Streicher’s trademark isfull AT STRIIIKE Kristie Streicher Zoolander Derek Moffitt Peggy Clara 1964 1927 Bow the film “It,” whichgarnered Bow the with herbrows —whenthey weren’t hidden by herof-the-moment Vidal Pencil thinandstraight, asseenin The mother of modexperimented Ben Stiller's alter egoworked a Sassoon asymmetric hairstyle. bold arch thataccentuated nickname the girl. “It” his manliness. frey asaclient. expert countsOprah Win- This French-born brow AT MIREILLE’SSTUDIO Mireille Hamon CHICAGO 212-833-2606 660 MadisonAvenue for 10years. in-house expert atBarneys Sweet Williamhasbeenthe Dubbed Brow“The Man,” AT BARNEYS NEW YORK Robert Sweet William 212-684-9500 343 East 30thStreet published hissecondbook. makeup artist Gafnijust Celeb brow maestro and Ramy Gafni NEW YORK 312-587-8727 49 East OakStreet MacGraw Williams Michelle Marlene Dietrich 1930 2013 1970 Ali American film, “Morocco,” withthin, natural brow of theSeventies with hair, darkeyebrow craze withher MacGraw perfected theno-fuss, The starlet kicked off theblonde platinum crop andbrown brows. The star smolders inherfirst her unkempt, thickarches. rounded brows. Rodarte Shields Brooke brushed through. tion, andthen transforms to ataupe huewhen The gelformula goes onwhite for easy applica- Ramy Therapy Beauty Arch Angel A wax baseprovides long-lasting color. Brow Pencil Bobbi Brown Perfectly Defined Long-Wear fuller look;atiny applicator ensures precision. The fiber-infused gelhelps plumpbrows for a L’Oréal Paris Brow Stylist Plumper pencil withabuilt-in brushfor anatural finish. The brand’s first brow product isanultrathin Longwear Pencil Marc Jacobs Brow Beauty Wow Defining plus three powder shadesto fillinsparse areas. This quadincludes clearwax to tame brows, Flower Take aBrow Complete Brow Kit the perfect arch. Five new products thatpromise The Latest Tools Kahlo Frida 1940 2014 1981 cover of Time, whichproclaimed her hoops for Rodarte, usheringin the “Self Portrait withThornNecklace and most famous works, features her seductive poutlandedheronthe with athick, prominent unibrow. Makeup artist James rings models’ brows withsilver Shields’ brow superthick and the face of “The ’80sLook.” H age of ornamentation. ummingbird,” oneof $42 $25 K aliardos K ahlo’s $24.99 $8.99 $9.98

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WITHOUT #1 SALON BRAND WORLDWIDE HI-DEF SHINE LIGHT GEL THE a more accessible price point,” noted Scott Oshry, chief marketing officer at Maesa. “It also has to do What’s Hotter Than Ever, with accessibility. There isn’t a Sephora on every street corner, but there is a Walgreens.” Agenda According to Oshry, the line is exceeding expec- But Still Misunderstood? tations, so Maesa must be doing something right. “In the old days, if we were to pour this kind of money into the formulation and packaging, it

Beauty Masstige has become more of a concept than might have fallen on deaf ears because nobody a sharply defined price proposition, but really knew [the brand’s value],” he said. “With brands keep entering the market. the ability to communicate so broadly, it makes sense to put as much into it as you possibly can By JAYME CYK because it’s going to be reviewed and put up against other items.” t’s illusive. It sounds like a celebrity couple Grant, global beauty industry analyst at The NPD Brand dialogue and the consumer’s access to name, à la Brangelina. And it makes no Group. “You have to be offering something that the reviews and ratings through social channels have sense to consumers. So why is masstige consumer feels is good quality that may not come raised expectations. the hottest category in beauty? with a [brand] name. Some mass brands bridge up “New brands coming in know that more and According to marketers, the complexity and sometimes prestige crosses over and down.” more, customers are not looking at print and Iof U.S. retail distribution — both consolida- Mintel doesn’t even track masstige products TV as a source of conversation,” said Shannon tion and fragmentation — created a middle specifically because it’s not a phrase generally Curtin, group vice president and general mer- ground and that’s why shoppers find happiness in used with consumers. From a sales perspective, chandise manager of beauty and personal care this beauty market. Mintel can’t differentiate between mass and mass- at Walgreens. “They’re looking in the social and Companies have responded to the demand by tige brands. digital space.” launching more brands into the fuzzily defined “While there are a wide range of price points category. Masstige has become so much of a con- within the mass beauty market, the masstige trend “You look at brands like cept, rather than a hard-cash category, that market is driven more by brands and retailers, as opposed research firms don’t even track to the consumer,” said Shannon Romanowski, MAC or the price point it. Masstige is a destination with- Mintel’s senior beauty and personal care analyst. out the boundaries that come To that end, Target pioneered bringing more of a high-end L’Oréal in with definition. upscale formulations and packaging to mass “Department stores have beauty brands. The discount chain considers a drugstore and then raised pricing on products, brands like Sonia Kashuk, Pixi by Petra and you look at Clinique and causing a lot of people to trade Laneige, among others, to be well-received by con- down,” said industry analyst sumers for their quality and accessible price point. the prices aren’t that Wendy Liebmann Allan Mottus. “Rather than say- So technically, masstige has been around for ing they went from Lancôme or years, the term just wasn’t coined yet. dramatically different.” Estée Lauder to Revlon, con- “Masstige is that bridge that separates mass sumers want to go masstige.” from prestige,” said Sonia Kashuk, who partnered Wendy Liebmann, WSL Strategic Retail There’s truth to that. Masstige with Target in 1999 for her value-packed color line blurs the lines of what’s tradi- for less. “I consider myself luxury at mass.” tionally mass and prestige. “You “What has been successful in masstige is Bath Walgreens is continuously rolling out exclusive look at brands like MAC or the & Body Works, who came in about 25 years ago masstige brands including Nonie Creme Colour Karen Grant price point of a high-end L’Oréal and what they did is improve the mass side of the Prevails, which was produced by Butter London’s in a drugstore and then you look business,” said Mottus. “They’ve built about a $3 founding creative director, Nonie Creme. The line at Clinique and the prices aren’t that dramatically billion business having very colorful personal-care was inspired by the inner artist, but is designed different. Then you choose because it’s about an items. They basically created a new category, for those who aren’t. experience,” declared Wendy Liebmann, chief which was between class and mass.” “The prestige shopper has a perception that executive officer at WSL Strategic Retail. In February, Maesa unveiled Circa, a profes- mass is ‘cheap,’” said Creme. “What I’m trying Beauty founders and manufacturers can’t even sional color cosmetics line featuring 133 stock- to do with Colour Prevails is take my reputation define the floating term. According to dictionary. keeping units. Fronted by Eva Mendes and sold at [from prestige] and invite her to take a second look com, “Masstige is noting or pertaining to goods 3,000 Walgreens doors, the collection ranges from at her drugstore setting.” that are perceived to have prestige or high style, $8 for eye shadow to $15 for foundation. Creme added that Colour Prevails is in about but are affordable for a wide range of customers.” “It’s something you would historically purchase 1,000 out of 3,000 Walgreens doors right now “The price has to deliver something,” said Karen at a beauty retailer like a Sephora or an Ulta, but at and is already close to hitting its full rollout-goal.

MASS MASSTIGE PRESTIGE

$8.95 $12.95 $8.95 $9.95 $9 $15 $10 $12 $20 $27 $16 $17

L'Oréal Paris, the cream of mass: The Super Slim Liner by Circa, masstige: Fade to Black Precision Eye Ink, MAC, the entry price point for department stores: Liquid Infallible, True Match Lumi Healthy Luminous Foundation, Balance Liquid Foundation, Absolute Velvet Luxe Eyeliner, Studio Fix Fluid SPF 15, Lipstick and Opulash Colour Riche Lipcolour and Telescopic Shocking Lipstick and Lash Icon. Optimum Black Mascara. Extensions Mascara.

94 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM 96

APRIL BeautyAgenda

29, I L’Or Letellier Jean-Christophe N India

beauty marketbeauty overall years. during thelasttwo growth despitethedownturnble-digit in the Indian L’Oréal’s universalization achievingdou- doctrine, maturation andIndiahasbecomea showcase for grown products asapositive signofmarket kits asaglamorous offeringfrom aglobalbrand. a daily ofmany staple became women’s beauty Kajal,launchedColossal in2011,which quickly consumerswasMaybellinewith local NewYork’s L’Oréal India.Anotheritemthatresonated deeply Letellier,Jean-Christophe managing directorof the rest oftheworld said Indiaspecific,” —itis manageability. “You fragrancein findthis cannot fits expected from shiny, oil—soft, thickhairand for naturals,combiningsixherbswiththebene- on theoilheritage inIndia,alongwitha passion here,”product designedinthelaboratory builds which oneexecutive as“an described Indian-born end, L’Oréal 6OilNourishingShampoo, Paris put L’Oréal Indiaintothedriver’s seat inpowering and chiefexecutive officerJean-Paul Agon. Ithas pioneeredtion, adoctrine by L’Oréal’s chairman innovation, orwhat L’Oréal universaliza- calls world. Thatwasbefore theadvent ofreverse that Frenchlookaround orAmerican the orNewYorkbase ofParis andexported ers developed productsintheirhome marketbeauty asawhole. a-half timesfasterthantheIndian growingwhich is ataratetwo-and- paying offbigtimeforL’Oréal, that’s astrategy stage —anditis stepping ontobeauty’s worldwide comingintoitsowncountry and huge oneofthesignsthis It is traditionsandneeds. beauty local to products tailored specifically heresidiary hasbeeninventing overseas, thecompany’s sub- 2015 By for productstailoredneeds. to local andawillingnesstoacceptance tradeup consumers are showing widespread marketoutpacing growth inIndia,where The world’s company biggestbeauty is Industry analystsIndustry evolution viewthis ofhome- majormanufactur-In pastdecades, é

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much traditions.To age-old that hair oil,forexample, are very where Kajaleye makeup and heritagerich beauty ofIndia, by intothe productsthattap sources. million, according toindustry ume of21billionrupees,or$31 chalking upa2014 salesvol- growth here, withthesubsidiary That growthbeingdriven is : Ins L 'O p r ira é al of this growth trajectory with a sparkle in his eye. with asparkle inhis growth trajectory of this of L’Oréal Indiamore than 18monthsago, speaks ($1.1 billion) inrevenue by 2019. fortheIndianunittoachieveis 70 billionrupees yet is tocome.”Onegoalhas saidthatthe“best L’Oréal’s inMumbai. headquarters tute ofManagement inAhmedabadandvisited when headdressed studentsat theIndianInsti- wasinJanuary,most recent tothecountry visit of eightthecompany operatesworldwide. Agon’s and innovation centerin Mumbai thatyear, one over thenext Italsoopenedaresearch decade. 10 billionrupees($160million)todrive growth by 2025. In2013, L’Oréal committedtoinvesting to beamongthetopfive markets globalbeauty many forthecountry vision times:He expects it often underscored by Agon, whohis hasstated t L'Oréal's in revenue by 2019. rupees ($1.1 billion) to achieve 70 billion Indian subsidiary One goal forL'Oréal's is Letellier, who tookover asmanagingdirector Despite L’Oréal India’s impressive growth, Agon ofIndiatoL’OréalThe importance hasbeen ion ' s

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India. behind market Unilever, leaderHindustan accord- L’Oréal market, rankssecondintheIndianbeauty like andwhat theywant[directly online].” nowwith television, theyare tellinguswhat they unique, thatinsteadof sending peopleamessage too, withnewmarkets. using ittoconnect “Itis Sonam Kapoor. L’Oréal going is aftere-commerce, dors, includingAishwarya Kaifand Rai, Katrina popular Bollywood heroines asbrandambassa- andcountsaslew of ontelevision, advertisers Thecompanyits vision. oneof thebiggest is one-strokeKajal withamechanical application.” we toKajal, came invented thefirstmodern wash hesaid.“When formen—itdidnotexist,” formulations. “We were thefirstto bringface products, like powders forhaircolor, intocream ket from themore traditionalandlower-priced such ashairconditioners,andupgradingthemar- been launching productsinareas thatdidn’t exist, closer totheconsumer. has ofthestrategy Part andgettingbringing aspirationandauthority todealwithoilandtake oilaway.and theability bespotty easily towatercan because theaccess a longer-lasting shampoos thatwash out effect, include Indianwomen like fragranceswith specific L’Oréal hasgained inhaircare.Key conclusions Worth linecombinedwiththeinsightthat It”tag onance ofL’Oréal universal Paris’ You’re “Because Asanexample, theres-global andlocal. hecites the finding thebalanceforeachbrandbetween also makinginroads. ing toEuromonitor. L’Oréal also spendinggenerously is toachieve how described L’OréalLetellier hasgrown, saidakeyLetellier dependson growth factor with L’Oréal toIndia for20years, andcame after headingthemass-market division for known asheis intheoffice,hasbeen JC, from goods. sachetstomore sophisticated market”the “bottle —asshoppers stepup hastakenParis charge inwhatcalls Letellier a favorite ofIndianconsumers,butL’Oréal Sachets —smaller, cheaperpackaging—are astrongtaking leadinthehair-care market. a burstofstrengthinthelastfewyears by more than800,000 doorsacross India. all, thecompany of hasaretail distribution and L’Oréal asitsprimeforces Paris here. In for L’Oréal, which countsGarnier, Maybelline makeup are almostequally strong drivers and themakeupSkincare segment. especially whenthemen’s describing market gapore. He favors words like “explosive,” South Asia,includingIndia,basedinSin- At thebrandlevel, L’Oréal hasseen Paris like Vichy Roche-Posay, andLa are withbrands unit, dermocosmetics and theU.K. than West Asia,Western Europe atparwithorlower is its pricing manager ofKiehl’s India,notingthat tioning,” saidAnurag Tyagi,brand customer. posi- “Ithasaperfect oftheIndian has caught thefancy have performedwell andKiehl’s out ofthecountry. Still,fragrances been slow andBiothermpulled has ing gains,althoughLancôme than oneyear,” said. Letellier customers whoinless adoptedthis we have more thanfive million culture oflipstickinIndiaandtoday a is 2012 andcostsabout$2.“There and Baby Lips,which launched in with productslike Kajal Colossal Maybelline hasalsoperformedwell, The professional division andthe The luxuryalsopost- division is AND THEENTIREWWDTEAM THE NEWWEEKLY WWD FOR THELAUNCHOF IFF CONGRATULATES PENSKE MEDIA © 2015 International Flavors&FragrancesInc.Allrightsreserved.2015 International BeautyBriefs

DELETE BLOOD CANCER GALA ON CEW CHARITY SHOW Jagger On “I’m 5 feet Saving Lives and she’s 5 OYou could be forgiven for assuming that with Georgia feet, 10 inches. May Jagger’s looks and My husband family connections, she would simply be content looked at me with partying. But that's not AMOREPACIFIC LAUNCH quite right for Jagger, who's and asked From the East the Coty Global Ambas- sador in the fight against how we were OKorea’s largest beauty blood cancer. company, AmorePacific, At the recent DKMS the same is introducing the first Delete Blood Cancer colorless cushion compact gala, she explained why. height and I as part of its new Resort “What I find that’s special sun-care range, developed about this charity is that said, ‘Well, I’m exclusively for the U.S. they really just want the on a box, I’m market. Featuring an SPF Can Sceti Build Coty? kindness of strangers, of 30, Sun Protection Cush- the willingness to donate definitely on a ion, priced at $40, uses OFinancial analysts and analyst, Piper Jaffray & Co. bone marrow to a total the brand’s proprietary retailers await the first It doesn’t hurt that he knows stranger. It’s about what box.’” fluid-capturing technology moves by Coty’s newly his way around acquisitions one individual can do for to trap the liquid sunscreen minted chief executive offi- — something the street another. It means that Sonia Kashuk, QVC and into a cushioned texture, cer, Elio Leoni Sceti. Will he expects from Coty on the everyone, whether they CEW presented their third delivering broad-spectrum be the one who can restore horizon. On the day his new have money or not, can annual “Beauty with Benefits” sun coverage in a sheer, the company to its for- position was announced, help save someone’s life.” program on April 15. Hosted weightless formula. The mer prominence Iglo was sold to Nomad Jagger — who confessed by Sonia Kashuk and Cindy other products in the range in the fragrance Holdings Ltd. to feeling fluish but was Crawford, the show sold out include a stick for the face and beauty Reestablishing determined to power on of 10 of the 19 products during and a body mist; the collec- industries, they Retail Connections: through the evening (“I have broadcast. tion will launch in June. ask? Retailers said Sceti’s Hello Kitty tissues in my Sceti, who will first chore should bag!) — was clad in a black join Coty in July, be repairing ruptured Roberto Cavalli cocktail was most recently buyer-seller relations. He dress and cream Sophia ceo of Iglo Group, Europe’s also has to convince chain Webster sandals. Makeup, Brands on the Rise: 2014 Performance versus 2011 leading frozen-brand food executives he’s the right man naturally, was by Rimmel, Makeup Skin Care Women’s Fragrance company (the company for the job. “Have they ever for whom Jagger is the thought of getting someone spokeswoman. In her day 9 behind the Birds Eye brand), Spots 3 3 raising some eyebrows if from the industry to do the job, Jagger’s also keeping climbed 3 job,” one buyer questioned very busy. “I just shot a Urban 7 Viktor & Rolf there’s synergy between Flowerbomb 5 new campaign for Rimmel, Decay Dior frozen foods, fragrance and upon his appointment. 20 Chanel foundations. The trade’s major lament I have a new campaign 12 10 Sisley Chance Eau Chanel coming out for Mother’s Anastasia Tendre Wall Street’s View: is that its Coty brands are Beverly Hills 11 Chance Although noting Sceti is “slow to go to market” in a Day from Sunglass Hut, I’m 6 Images on Barnard/Getty light in beauty experience, business where flankers continuing with Mulberry, 25 financial analysts think he are not enough to move and I just shot a Sonia SK-II Kate 10 Somerville Dior Lancôme has the right vision. “He’s the sales needle. That said, Rykiel campaign with my Tom Ford J’adore Beauty Dr. Dennis La Vie Est known for implementing they are willing to give him a sister in Paris with Juergen Gross Belle change to better align in the chance, noting his ties to the Teller.” Skincare digital era by emphasizing music industry that bode well Also in attendance was 30 digital marketing initiatives for further celebrity scent Peyton List, who wore Tarte a flared black Monique 30 and brand investment pro- launches and his past expe- Sisley ductivity,” said Stephanie rience at Procter & Gamble Lhuillier cocktail dress S. Wissink, senior research and Reckitt Benckiser. valued at $4,700, which she later donated to Unranked CharityBuzz as an auction to top-30 brand MOTHER'S DAY FORECAST item benefiting DKMS. The evening raised $3.9 million Women’s Fragrances Appear Strong for the cause. 2014 RESULTS OThe women’s fragrance business in U.S. department stores this year is “the strongest we’ve seen since the recession,” The Prestige Leaders said Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty analyst at the NPD Group Inc. Indeed, sales were up 5 percent for the first The U.S. prestige market is in motion. While The NPD Group quarter, but sales comparisons will grow more difficult. data show that the market leaders are well-established names, emerging brands came on strong last year. Monthly Trend First Quarter 2015: Prestige Women's Fragrance Top 5 Women’s Fragrance Top 5 Prestige Makeup Top 5 Prestige Skin Care (% change VS prior year) Brands by Dollars Per Store Brands by Dollars Per Brands by Dollars Per 2014 2015 Selling Store Selling Store Selling 10 1 Jo Malone Wood Sage & 1 MAC 1 La Mer 0 Sea Salt 2 Chanel 2 La Prairie -10 2 Chanel Coco 3 Urban Decay 3 Sisley -20 Mademoiselle 4 Clinique 4 Clinique 3 Bond No. 9 Queens 5 Bobbi Brown 5 Kiehl’s Jan Feb Mar 4 Bond No. 9 Signature SOURCE: NPD Group BeautyTrends® 5 Bond No. 9 Scent of Peace Neils by Kashuk Chriz Lopez; by Sceti Michel Dufour/WireImage; by Jagger photograph Carlos Monteiro; by Chart and illustration

98 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM RetailAgenda EDITED BY EVAN CLARK

he pressure’s on. Mall traffic is down, Retailers are recharging, online sales are taking mar- ket share and shoppers are spending millions to bring more interested in the lat- in new ideas via acquisition. est gadget than the latest look. The result? Retailers By EVAN CLARK T are no longer relying just on organic growth. They’re getting out their checkbooks and plunking down hundreds of millions of dollars to buy new busi- nesses and quickly learn new skills or gain foot- holds in new areas. The New Fashion companies want to not only avoid extinction, but drive their own evolutionary leap Cotton is natural and feels great against the skin. So check forward. Instead of an equivalent explosion of the label for it. After all, you check the labels on your food, cave art or arrowheads, it’s an effort marked by digital investments and moves into new channels why wouldn’t you check the labels on your clothes? Inorganics of distribution and new geographies. So far this year, Under Armour Inc. said it would COTTON. IT’S YOUR FOR A REASON. 100 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Illustrations by SÉBASTIEN THIBAULT AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2015 Service Marks/Trademarks COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. AMERICA’S spend $560 million to acquire MyFitnessPal and nder Armour’s move is into Endomondo and build “the world’s largest digital something else entirely. Acquiring New Skills health and fitness community.” And Macy’s Inc. Together with MapMyFit- revealed a $210 million deal to jump into specialty ness — which Under Armour Established players are paying up to get Agenda retail with beauty chain Bluemercury. acquired in 2013 for $150 into new markets with new capabilities. They’re just the latest to signal retailers’ willing- Umillion — MyFitnessPal and ness to mix it up. Endomondo give the company

Retail In September, Neiman Marcus Group secured control of broad swath of the connected fitness FOR Under PAID MyFitnessPal and an international foothold with its deal to acquire phenomenon. Armour $560m Endomondo to Munich-based luxe firm Mytheresa.com. And Under Armour’s fitness platforms reach 120 Inc. build its connected Nordstrom Inc. made a big digital play, buying million people. fitness empire. men’s site Trunk Club last year and flash-sales And chairman and ceo Kevin Plank crowed to brand Hautelook before that. Wall Street that “one out of every five people in

“A lot of the retailers are trying to figure out the United States has downloaded one of the apps FOR ways to stay relevant and differentiate,” said Lisa in our platform. Collectively, the three sites grew Nordstrom PAID Trunk Club to get $357m it into the personal Clyde, managing director at Bank of America 46 percent last year, adding 40 million members, Inc. styling game online. Merrill Lynch. and we continue to add over 100,000 registered “In the athletic space, you will see more invest- users every day.”

ment in things that relate to wearable technology,” The platforms help users count calories and FOR Clyde said. “In the broader fashion landscape, track their nutrition as well as map, record and Macy’s PAID Bluemercury to we are likely to see some of these more capabil- share updates on their workouts. $210m bring in expertise Inc. from the specialty ity-driven deals like Nordstrom has done. And I Plank said the connected fitness initiative was beauty player. wouldn’t be surprised to see further geographic an “opportunity for Under Armour to build a plays amongst the department stores.” different type of relationship with our consumer FOR Consumers are inundated with choices and over the long term.” Neiman PAID Mytheresa.com to fashion companies are working to give them even Hana Ben-Shabat, a partner in A.T. Kearney’s Marcus $182m gain an e-commerce Group foothold in Europe. more options that make sense. retail practice, said Under Armour is using the “It’s all about a realization that channels can deals to cast itself in a new light. be complementary as opposed to combative,” “It’s about defining themselves as a wellness said Mortimer Singer, chief executive officer of retailer, so their proposition to the consumer is not Marvin Traub Associates. “The right distribution only about the clothing and the footwear they sell, bets as they look beyond their own boarders for is exponentially better than one channel.” but it’s a more holistic approach about how you growth. In an historic divestment, for example, Macy’s already has its own brands, retail mix sports and fitness and wellness into your life.” General Electric Co. is in the process of spinning distribution and wholesale and concession rela- It’s an ambitious goal and a significant pivot for off the house that Jack Welch built — its massive tionships. “Now they’re going to have a comple- Under Armour. Just as Macy’s move toward spe- financial arm — and refocusing the company onto mentary retail environment that’s outside of their cialty retailing could signal serious changes ahead. its industrial base, which is expected to produce box,” Singer said. But history has shown time and again that cor- 90 percent of its earnings by 2018. He also pointed to the success that Loblaw Cos. porate honchos don’t necessarily place the right There’s also a long history of fashion companies has had with Joe Fresh and noted J. Crew Group’s wanting to take on new markets via acquisition, deal to sell Madewell styles at Nordstrom and Net- but finding that they haven’t picked the right tools a-porter, observing that the arrangement helped or used their new capabilities to full effect. the brand expand its touch points with shoppers. “A lot of retailers Sears bought catalogue company Lands’ End “It’s all about supercharging the access to the are trying to figure out only to spin it off last year. Neiman Marcus owned consumer,” Singer said. “You’ll probably see Kate Spade, but missed out on its potential, some department stores trying to go own these ways to stay relevant which was realized by Liz Claiborne Inc. The specialty chains. You could see big acquisitions former Saks Inc. bought tween concept Club between the likes of the big specialty stores and and differentiate.” Libby Lu, but shuttered the 78-door chain when the major [department store] retailers because — LISA CLYDE, BANK OF AMERICA the company turned its focus away from main- they can complement each other, not only with MERRILL LYNCH stream department stores and zeroed in on luxe. their infrastructure and their cross-channel base, And Macy’s predecessor, Federated Department but also their customer base. There’s a lot of Stores, bought catalogue and direct-marketing opportunity to this.” specialist Fingerhut Cos. during the dot-com boom For his part, Macy’s chairman and ceo Terry J. only to see the marriage go bust. Lundgren said there were opportunities to add Proof, if needed, that high-minded transforma- some of Bluemercury’s range of beauty products tions and the nitty-gritty of integrations don’t to Macy’s stores while expanding on the name- always turn out as expected. Evolution is plate’s 60 doors. driven by the environment. And even the “We think there’s a lot more potential for quick and smart can’t see what’s coming growing the brand as it is,” Lundgren said. next. CELEBRATING FASHION’S “I think, over time, there will be some But there seems to be something pok- opportunities for Macy’s and Bluemer- ing its head around the corner. cury to work together to do stores, as After a very tough third quarter, well. We’re in a brainstorming mode Millard “Mickey” Drexler, J. Crew’s FAVORITE NEW WEEKLY at this point.” chairman and ceo, said, “Apparel While the Bluemercury deal had spending is down across our industry. some experts scratching their heads It’s common knowledge that store trying to completely understand traffic has been down for the past Macy’s rationale for the purchase, it was couple of years. Customers are shop- a milestone for Lundgren, who’s proven ping online more than ever, and the to be one of retailing’s savviest operators. promotional environment is like I have “I’ve wanted to invest in another cate- never seen before. Clearly, this is not gory for a long time and we’ve looked at so business as usual. The world is changing, many opportunities,” he said. “We’ve been and customer behavior and expectations open to lots of different ideas, but this one was are changing even faster.” the one that made the most sense.” Not long after that, Drexler inked the deal Macy’s deal, while outside the traditional bringing Madewell to some Nordstrom doors. department store box, is still a move into relatively Evolution is messy and makes for some strange familiar terrain. bedfellows, but opens up space for the fittest.

102 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM company’s total full-time staff to 350, up from just under 300 a year ago. Hyman said the team is scouting real estate in Los Angeles, Houston and Boston and plans to Agenda open additional doors this year and next. Her goal is to cut the ribbon on 15 more locations, which are not so much stores but appointment-only

Retail showrooms where consumers can try on looks and decide what they want to rent. live in slim The newest door is a 2,940-square-foot space in Chicago’s Gold Coast neighborhood and, like the company’s four existing units, renters will pay $25 JEANS PANTS TOPS DRESSES to book an appointment. The initial The Real Runway content features 10 female entrepreneurs from Chicago. Lindsay Avner, ceo of breast and ovarian cancer aware- ness nonprofit Bright Pink, and Elaina Vazquez, founder of catering company Boutique Bites, were among the first to appear on the site. A series of digital influencers in the fashion space will also appear on the site in rental looks. “These influencers are going to break that stigma that renting isn’t cool,” Morgan said. “[We’re making an] effort to tell the stories of real women who are doing incredible things every day and the role that fashion plays in empowering them.” The company’s move into sportswear might be its most ambitious expansion to date. Hyman said she doesn’t want Rent the Runway’s more than five million members to use the site just when they have a special occasion. She wants the subscription service to be something they rely on when getting dressed for work or Sunday brunch. Tam is spearheading the foray into apparel (beyond dresses) and the initial offerings will have a range of contemporary and designer labels. Come August, expect designers such as Kaufman Franco and Naeem Khan to join the mix. There will be a surcharge for the very high-end apparel, although specifics haven’t been determined. If a member wants to borrow a $5,000 dress as part of her monthly subscription, for instance, there will be an additional fee. Rent the Runway has already tried to make its services a habit. In July, an unlimited rental program launched with a fee of $75 a month, allowing users to rent any three handbags, sunglasses, scarves, Jennifer Hyman, Jennifer Fleiss, outerwear, hats and jewelry at a given time. The Sarah Tam and Alexis Bryan Morgan. program added dresses to the mix in March, when the monthly fee increased to $99. While Rent the Runway is seeing rapid growth look a size smaller. on some fronts, Hyman doesn’t expect the venture feel amazing. to be profitable in the near future, although it is Reimagining Retail projected to see positive earnings before interest, taxes depreciation and amortization next year. Rent the Runway is getting into cofounder and chief executive officer Jennifer “This is the most important metric for us,” everyday dressing and making Hyman told WWD at the brand’s Manhattan head- she said, adding profitability depends on how quarters. “This is as critical to [the consumer] for quickly the company wants to grow the sub- a big push for new showrooms. how they could think about getting dressed as to scription business. As long as Rent the Runway is By RACHEL STRUGATZ how a Spotify is to listening to music. The goal is EBITDA-positive, she is not worried about turning to change the level of engagement of membership a profit just yet. so they see us as more than a place catering to Nor is the company hurting for backers. ent the Runway expects to rent out special events.” The nearly six-year-old firm raised $60 million the retail equivalent of $1.35 billion Apparel is just part of the new equation, though. in December, for a total of $116 million, and is said worth of fashion goods this year, a The company’s fifth physical outpost will to be valued at $600 million. Investors include R gain of more than $500 million over open in Chicago, also on Thursday. And The Technology Crossover Ventures, Bain Capital 2014. To get there, the company is Real Runway, a new content strategy based on Ventures, Highland Capital Partners and Advance moving to version 2.0, adding sportswear to its “real women” (who Hyman refers to as “Smart Publications Inc. rental mix and opening more physical outposts. Entrepreneurial Women,” or SEWs), launched on “We have created an inclusive fashion com- Starting Thursday, Rent the Runway will offer renttherunway.com ahead of the opening. munity that brings fun and playfulness and apparel across every category from brands such as To carry out these initiatives, Hyman has built discovery into the fashion world,” Hyman said. Derek Lam, Nina Ricci, Giambattista Valli, Carven out her team, adding Alexis Bryan Morgan from “We’re modernizing the way people get dressed. and Opening Ceremony. That’s a big step for the Lucky magazine as director of designer relations Fashion to date has been extremely binary — the e-tailer, which established itself renting out looks and special projects, and Sarah Tam, a Saks Fifth only choice is that you buy something and have it for special occasions. Avenue alum, as senior vice president, mer- forever or you can’t have it ever. Shouldn’t there “This is how the subscription should be used,” chandising and planning. They help bring the be other options?”

104 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photograph by THOMAS IANNACCONE NYDJ.COM report, put the figure for its Ross and dd’s Dis- counts stores at 8,200. Last year, TJX’s sales passed $29 billion, with its HomeGoods brand and growing European presence helping it to Agenda move ahead of Macy’s $28.1 billion, while Ross topped the $11 billion mark and Burlington grew to $4.8 billion.

Retail Off-price retailers’ U.S. sales in the 12 months ended in February were up 2.5 percent to $23.2 billion, according to The NPD Group Inc. But that improvement was easily eclipsed by two looming threats: the 23.6 percent growth rate of online pure-plays and direct mail, to $9 billion, and the 6.1 percent growth of manufacturer-owned stores to $7.9 billion. “Consumers are clearly looking for better deals and they’re taking them where they can get them,” said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD. The consumer expert said the robust expansion at pure-plays and manufacturers’ stores is indica- tive of a shift in shopping behavior, as well as the off-pricers’ generally slow and loose embrace of online shopping. “There are a lot of reasons for [the e-commerce reticence], including the need for discretion with their suppliers, but the off-pricers haven’t done a good job online, and they’re competing with stores that are heavily geared towards promotions and communicating their discounts to customers’ e-mails and smartphones.” Flash-sale sites, such as Rue La La and Gilt Groupe, have shoppers racing against the clock for bargains, duplicating some of the excitement of shopping at an off-price store — where consum- The Off-Price Battle ers never know what they’re going to get. But the TJX, Ross and Burlington are still grabbing future of off-price online is still very much up in the air. The question is to what degree the sec- market share but face faster-growing competitors. tor’s primary players, which built their empires By ARNOLD J. KARR with bricks and mortar, aggressively chase online business. Designer Takeover #1 “The flash-sale sites haven’t managed to do it he end of easy growth is coming into expanding 6 to 8 percent annually in each of the profitably,” said Stifel Nicolaus analyst Richard view for the off-price giants. next five years and outperforming growth in Jaffe. “TJX is trying some things that are showing Consumers are still flocking to TJX the broader apparel sector by 4 or 5 percentage some promise, and they like the idea that cus- TCos. Inc., Ross Stores Inc. and Burling- points. tomers who buy online may bring it back to the ton Stores Inc.’s 4,859 North American Macy’s Inc. wants to get a bigger part of that store, where they might just participate in some doors to engage in some fashion treasure hunting growth and is piloting an off-price concept for its in-store treasure hunting, but they’re generally and take advantage of branded bargains. But namesake division to complement its Blooming- still searching for a way to duplicate the hunting competition from department store spin-offs, dale’s outlet business. experience online.” e-commerce players and frisky fast-fashion retail- Tuhy said Macy’s off-price venture wouldn’t TJX bought off-price Internet retailer Sierra ers is growing. have a material effect on the retailer’s results — or Trading Post in late 2012 and ceo Meyrowitz And the point of store saturation — once more on the competitive landscape — any time soon. But said tjmaxx.com had seen “great progress,” with than a decade off — is drawing closer. It’s a set of he does view the venture as significant. e-commerce weighing in at “just over” 1 percent Concept Store Opening competitive challenges that’s forcing the three “It not only shows the attraction of the off-price of sales after about a year in the game. Burlington major U.S. off-pricers to shift their strategies, with space, but the way in which Macy’s existing scale also has an e-commerce site, but Ross does not. some trying to solve the e-commerce puzzle. and deep vendor relationships, like those at Nord- The off-pricers’ success so far — and their Summer ’15 “It’s obviously a big market, and there are strom and Saks, make it immediately viable and growing tendency to attract competition from already competitors like Nordstrom Rack and Saks something we’ll need to keep an eye on,” he said. department stores and others — has convinced Off 5th, which are getting big investments from The off-price market leaders are hardly lacking Matthew Boss, analyst at J.P. Morgan, that the once their owners,” said Scott Tuhy, vice president in such relationships and have made good use of wide-open sector could become saturated in the 19 Fulton St, New York and senior credit officer at Moody’s Investors them. U.S. — at least from a brick-and-mortar standpoint. Service. “But off-price is simply too big an area Carol Meyrowitz, chief executive officer of The analyst recently shifted his view and said that SeaportStudios.com to ignore now.” TJX, has put the number of her firm’s suppliers saturation point was 10 years off, not 13 or 14. Including home goods, Moody’s sees off-pricers at 16,000 while Ross, in its most recent annual The clock is ticking.

Off-pricers are big… …and getting bigger… …but threatened by faster- Stores Major Off-Pricers’ growing competitors. 2017** SOURCE: Company 2,955 Share of U.S. Apparel reports as of Jan. 31 Sales (in billions) TJX* 9.4% * Includes U.S. and and Footwear Sales SOURCE: The NPD Group $22.6 $23.2 Canada only. SOURCE: Moody’s 2014 2015 Investors Service 2013 ** 2017 figure is projected. 8.1% $9 $7.9 1,362 $7.3 $7.4 542 Ross 2008

Burlington 5.5% Pure-play/ Manufacturer- Off-Price Direct Mail Owned Stores Retailers New York’s Oldest New Neighborhood +23.6% +6.1% +2.5% Chart by Carlos Monteiro Chart by

106 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Illustration By EDMON DE HARO RetailBriefs

QUOTED

COMPENSATED Low Prices, “Part of the Top Dollar ODoug McMillon, ceo of formula for Wal-Mart Stores Inc., raked success in MERGERS & ACQUISITIONS in $19.4 million last year, Wheeling and Dealing including stock. While that our business might offend the sensibil- Bandier On the Run OKaDeWe, one of Europe’s largest flagship department ities of the social justice is making a stores, is said to have caught the eye of would-be acquirers, crowd, many capitalists Bandier — the hot new activewear including Hudson’s Bay Co., Selfridges Group, Sanpower applaud executive pay. “No big bet and Group and Qatari investors. matter how great [a retail- store in Manhattan’s Flatiron District If someone does swoop in and buy the three-store busi- er’s] employees are, it’s usu- — is taking the e-commerce plunge we did so ness, it would be a boost for fashionable dealmaking, which ally fewer than six people cooled in the first quarter. Mergermarket Group’s quarterly who make the company,” this week. Bandier.com will carry when we report showed that the value of deals seen in the apparel, lux- said Les Berglass, founder more than 40 names and nearly 400 ury goods, personal care and household electronics areas fell of Berglass + Associates. signed Jordan for the second consecutive quarter, decreasing 77.8 percent “Those people deserved to sku’s, with an emphasis on emerging [Spieth] as to $42.3 billion. be rewarded.” brands. Exclusives will include blue python print leggings from Prismsport, a teenager camo leggings and bra from Ultracor a few years and neon looks from Phat Buddha. ago.” Founder Jennifer Bandier predicted Kevin Plank, chairman and chief executive officer, sales of $10 million over the next Under Armour Inc., crowing 12 months, with 20 percent of that over his company’s connection to the Masters coming from bandier.com. champion.

WANTED

Desperately Studios Amazon Images for etty Seeking Secondhand OOnline consignment player thredUp dug through its trove of user data to see which brands were much searched for last year. Anthropologie was the most sought-after name by search query on the site, followed, in order, by Amazon’s J. Crew, Free People, Boden, Lily Red Ink THE MODEL CONNECTION Pulitzer, Tory Burch, The North Face, OJeff Bezos, founder Zara, Patagonia, Athleta, Forever 21, A dress from and ceo of Amazon.com, Loving Exclusives (And Heidi) Banana Republic and Old Navy. Anthropologie. stayed in his comfort zone in the first quarter, Macy’s Inc. is expanding its empire of exclusives by

THE CHART boosting the Web giant’s launching Heidi by Heidi Klum, a line of contemporary sales by 15.1 percent, to The Missing Russians $22.7 billion, while losses bras and panties, priced between $12 and $44. OA toxic mix of geopolitical strife, international sanctions and continued to add up. a weak economy has Russian travelers in retreat. While global Amazon keeps pouring THE TURNAROUND tax-free tourist spending in the first quarter rose 23.9 percent more money into new compared with a year earlier, consumption by Russians on the initiatives, which left it Gap’s Long Haul road fell 47.6 percent, according to Global Blue and Barclays. $57 million in the red for OWells Fargo analyst Paul down eight out of 10 years, the quarter. Among the Lejuez took a look back at traffic has been down every company’s latest efforts First-Quarter Growth In the performance of Gap year, and sales productivity Tax-Free Tourist Spending to lock in consumers with Inc.’s namesake brand is down relative to 10 years its services: the expansion over the last decade and ago,” Lejuez said. “Qualita- Watches of Prime Now bringing tively, this tells us that Gap 33.3% decided that Art Peck, the and Jewelry two-hour delivery to Miami, company’s new ceo, has his has not been able to close Leather Goods Baltimore, Dallas, Atlanta work cut out for him. stores fast enough to keep 26.7% and Bags and Austin, and the Dash “As Gap brand has been up with its loss of market Fashion and Button, a physical button closing stores over the past share.” 5.3% Apparel that lets consumers reor- 10 years — which in theory Bottom line? “Gap brand der goods with, well, the should result in a stronger is not an easy fix,” the SOURCE: Global Blue Analytics, Barclays Research

press of a button. fleet — comps have been analyst said. Todaro/G Michael N. by Bezos Images; Jeff Wong/Getty Alex McMillon by WWD Archive; by exterior KaDeWe Carlos Monteiro; Chart by

108 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM AccessoriesAgenda EDITED BY DIANNE POGODA

T H E BAG Logos are back — specifically those of the Gucci variety. For his first collection as the creative director of Gucci, Alessandro Michele reintroduced the classic “G” logo in the form of a new shoulder bag. “The monogram gives the bag a timeless and iconic look,” said Sasha Sarokin, buying manager for Net-a-porter. “It brings on a sort of nostalgia, but this season injected with an “It” girl makeover in terms of shapes and trims — especially in the context of what we’ve seen on the Gucci runway as of late. It’s sure to be a cult hit.” The bag was shown in several iterations of logoed fabric mixed with suede or python, some embellished with embroidery of bees or floral motifs. Prices range from around $1,500 to $3,800. The meeting of the Gucci brand from years past with Michele’s new approach made the accessory a winning piece for many retailers. “It really embodies what Alessandro Michele was trying to show,” said Erica Russo, Bloomingdale’s operating vice president and fashion director of accessories and cosmetics. “There was respect for the heritage, but new ways of thinking. Not only does it have an amazing new shape, but I also love the suede gusset and the new closure, which felt almost vintage. It’s a beautiful interpretation of a classic.” Added Justin O’Shea, buying director for Mytheresa.com: “It represents something new. Under [Michele’s] creative direction, there’s a powerful feeling of Gotta Have It youthfulness and a rejuvenation What must-have accessories emerged of the timelessness of Gucci. The hardware and monogrammed from the fall collections? Here are the fabric highlight the Gucci DNA, which everyone loves but bag, brooch and boot of the season. perhaps has just forgot.” By LAUREN MCCARTHY

110 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photographs by BRIAN KLUTCH Agenda T H E BOOT Forget coins and stamps — Burberry boots are the newest collectors’ item. At least Accessories according to Neiman Marcus senior vice president and fashion director Ken Downing, speaking specifically about the British brand’s footwear offering for fall: over-the-knee patchwork suede boots in peacock blues and shades of brown. “That boot really transcends trend,” Downing said. “It’s a piece for a customer that has an absolute appetite for the most superlative things. She’s going to buy that boot and she’s going to keep it forever. It’s not going to the resale shop.” The boots retail for $2,295 and maintain a hint of handmade craftsmanship — a quality that Downing believes will resonate with customers come fall. “They have a very handmade quality,” he said. “It’s what’s given this folkloric, Seventies trend so much excitement within the industry. [The boots] had beautiful suede patchworking and whipstitch, which gives it such a crafted quality, as opposed to something completely anonymous and manufactured. There’s a real rawness in the quality that feels new to the eye.” The silhouette itself, the thigh-high boot with a sexy, second-skin feel, is another big draw. “Thigh-high boots are gaining popularity,” said Natalie Kingham, buying director at Matchesfashion.com. “They are coming through in a lot of collections, but the Burberry boot still sticks out in my mind. The colors and the patchwork made them really special. The way they were styled on the runway, with luxe artisanal dresses, was a great look… All women want to look like that at some point.” As Downing simply stated, “There’s no reason to not want that boot.”

112 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Agenda Accessories THE BROOCH With the Seventies taking over the runways across the four major fashion cities, even the most rampant Age of Aquarius enthusiasts hit a wall of saturation at some point. Enter Miuccia Prada, who sent out a parade of pre-Mod, Sixties-inspired looks in bright primaries and delicate pastels. “[It was] a unique aesthetic with emblematic proper looks that had been brilliantly unhinged,” described Charlotte Tasset, general merchandise manager at Printemps. To further punctuate this look, almost every outfit was decorated with a Plexi and crystal brooch. “I liked the offbeat style,” Tasset added. “Miuccia twisted the brooch using Plexiglas and pastel and ‘acide’ colors that gave a neo-retro look to the traditional decorative pin spirit. They finished every look and had a key role in the fashion show story.” The unconventional accessory, priced from $360 to $505, was showcased traditionally: pinned to the lapels of vests and jackets or positioned on the bodice of a dress — or less traditionally: worn in the models’ hair as a new take on the barrette. “It was such an important detail,” Rae Ann Herman, vice president and fashion director for accessories at Saks Fifth Avenue, said of the accessory. “There were lots of feminine touches in the collection, especially with the idea of the brooch as an embellishment. It will be a great piece to invest in.” And while the brooch might typically be associated with Grandma’s jewelry box, expect to see it make a mainstream resurgence, thanks to Prada’s high-fashion push. “We’ll be seeing them more and more,” said Herman. “It’s a classic piece, but now it feels fresh and modern.”

SHOWROOM35 HANDBAG SHOWROOM 19 WEST 34TH STREET 7TH FLOOR NEW YORK, NEW YORK 10001 212.868.2770

114 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Agenda Accessories

The Little Engine That Could A growing retail and collaboration strategy has the house of Moynat, known for its luxe ladylike leathers, on an expansion track. BY MILES SOCHA

Moynat creative director Ramesh rench luxury titan Bernard Moynat stands out from the other luxury behe- Nair and ceo Arnault, who tours his Left moths in Arnault’s family-controlled empire — Guillaume Davin. Bank department store Le Bon which includes Louis Vuitton, Dior and Fendi Marché almost every Saturday — yet he tends this start-up with impressive care morning, has a new stand he and dedication. Every Tuesday, he meets up with will surely visit with great inter- Moynat chief executive officer Guillaume Davin est. Come mid-May, Moynat, and creative director Ramesh Nair to catch up on Fthe almost forgotten 19th-cen- developments and review the latest prototypes. tury trunk maker he revived “He enters the room, and after a few seconds, he four years ago, will open a permanent 450-square- will know what he likes and what he doesn’t like. foot shop there, giving a second Paris showcase to He loves to be surprised, because if he feels he is its meticulously crafted, ladylike leather goods. surprised, then visitors and clients will be, too,” With its modest scale and low-key communications, Davin told WWD. “We never discuss numbers,

116 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photographs by DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE AMERICAN ICONS plans or strategy. Even though LVMH is a large group, we only discuss products and projects.” Davin insisted Moynat’s progress is hinged a celebration of the people, places and things we love entirely on creativity, with pricing of handbags Agenda and small leather goods based on their cost, not against its competitive set. “We don’t have a marketing function, we don’t have a mer- chandising function,” he said. “We have the Thalia Sodi studio, then we have the atelier making the prototypes, and then we have production.” This spring, women Still, this artisanal approach, based on rare raw Accessories materials and haute savoir faire, has yielded coast to coast got an results. Market sources estimate the brand gen- up-close look at the erated about 10 million euros ($10.8 million at current exchange), and Davin said sales have more debut collection of than doubled every year, albeit from a small base clothing and accessories and restrained by the production capabilities of about 30 craftsmen in Paris and the Drôme region that captured the in southeastern France. passion, charisma and Prices for the leather bags range roughly 2,000 euros to 6,500 euros, or $2,150 to $7,000, and run style of this legendary higher for exotic leathers and special order trunks. star. Now, she’s heating “Slow luxury may be growing faster than fast luxury,” Davin enthused, describing a grow- things up once more ing niche of customers who are graduat- with caliente styles for ing from “brands that are really industrial” and ones that surf seasonal fashion cycles. the summer season — “We do products that are for a generation,” he exclusively at Macy’s. said, “so it’s a different reason and there is not so much competition in that segment. Maybe we should not say we are old-school, but old-school today is fashionable. This approach, going back to the root of craft, is definitely appealing to a wider number of clients.” Since Moynat opened its Paris flagship on the Rue Saint Honoré in 2011, the first volley in its

“Slow luxury may be growing faster than fast luxury.” — GUILLAUME DAVIN, MOYNAT

revival, the brand has charted a gradual retail expansion, adding a London flagship last year and relying mainly on pop-up operations at marquee department stores — Isetan in Tokyo, Thalia Sodi Dover Street Market in New York and Boon the Only at Macy’s. Shop in Seoul — to build up awareness and tout its haute craftsmanship. This method echoes Maxi dress. Misses. 99.50. the “caravan” approach Moynat employed more + 2162698. than a century ago, when it showcased its Sonya espadrille innovations at world’s fairs and auto shows. wedge. 5-11M. 89.50. Moynat has yet to decamp from its temporary shop Earrings. 26.50. in the Galeries Lafayette — first installed in 2013 and + 2058760. demarcated by an undulating cage of russet-col- ored metal — because sales are “incredibly high FREE SHIPPING WITH and consistently high,” Davin marveled. “So we are $99 PURCHASE & FREE doing much better than so many fashion brands.” The Ballerine bag; in the atelier. RETURNS AT MACYS.COM Now the company has moved into a phase of adding permanent, albeit pocket-sized retail Free shipping with $99 purchase. concepts dubbed “galleries,” with the first units Free returns by mail or in-store. opening earlier this year in Hong Kong and Macau. U.S. only. Exclusions apply. The Moynat corner in Le Bon Marché, positioned Details at macys.com/freereturns at one of the entrances, is expected to capture Advertised merchandise may not its mainly French clientele, as well as American, be carried at your local Macy’s and selection may vary by store. Chinese and southeast Asian tourists. Asian clients 5030064. represent about 60 percent of Moynat’s business in Paris and London, with Greater China account- ing for about a quarter. “There are perhaps 10 cities in the world where we would like to be,” said Davin, a slim, soft-spoken executive with a

meticulous approach. Moynat of courtesy Bag photograph

118 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photographs by DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE “As long as something is well made, I think

Agenda that’s what counts. It can be in steel, it can be in rubber — what’s important is the craft.” — RAMESH NAIR, MOYNAT Accessories

A collaboration last fall with “Happy” singer Pharrell Williams also exploded the firm’s fame, while in sync with its quest to revive rare craft skills. Working on a train theme divined by Williams, Nair found artisans able to hand- tool acrylic resin or hand-carve ebony, yielding an unusual, conversation-sparking minaudière. “It opened the whole thing up,” he said, also revealing plans to extend the tie-up with Williams. Nair, who learned the ropes at Hermès, focused his creativity on shapes that stem from Moynat’s heri- tage as a maker of automobile trunks that adopted From left: The train minaudière from the collaboration their curves to the cars of the time. “It’s the root, the with Pharrell Williams; various handbag styles; most important element, it’s my source,” he said. crafting the product. The best-selling Réjane bag boasts curved sides, while the top of the Limousine bag, now in most powerful tool for spreading the Moynat gospel, a larger overnight size aimed at men, slopes while in-store specialists — and vintage trunk displays like the back of a horse — though the shape — unfurl the brand’s legacy and narrative. Founded echoes trunks propped on the roof of a car. in 1849, Moynat is five years older than Vuitton. Asked to describe the Moynat aesthetic, Nair It was one of the rare malletiers to be cofounded by replied, “Simplicity and generosity. Savoir faire and a woman, Pauline Moynat, a merchant who teamed craftsmanship, of course. It’s very crafty, curvy.” up with the Coulembier family of artisans, and who Fittingly, his inspirations are rarely linear. After was one of the first to set up a boutique at the foot touring an exhibition of theater and movie posters of the Avenue de l’Opéra — the Champs-Elysées of at auction house Artcurial a few years ago, his its time — in 1869. mind went to the layers of advertising that build Nair had a black-and-white photo of that up on the walls of Metro stations in Paris — and original shop inkjet-printed on the cotton liner then are torn off. Cue his Dechirure totes with for one of his newest canvas totes, dubbed the the handles ripped — albeit in a precision way — Cabas Parisien. It’s among the star products from the same piece of leather, and a contrasting debuting at Le Bon Marché, along with the Bal- shade inserted in the void. It’s the kind of subtle lerine bag, winking to the Belle Époque period, feat of design engineering that tends to attract and requiring about 40 hours of handiwork. the attention of architects and graphic designers, “One thing you cannot copy is heritage — and that’s Nair noted. a difference,” Nair said. During his brief Moynat career, Nair has cham- Difficult, too, to replicate the artisanal tech- pioned rare and exceptional leathers, starting two niques that Nair poured into his designs, reviving years ago with box calf, which raised eyebrows marquetry for Pharrell’s leather pouches with train among suppliers, given how easily it scratches motifs — and corner stitching on small vanity cases. and ages. That consumers are prepared to wait “I think this is where we would like to go,” three or even six months to receive such a bag Nair mused, “using very old savoir-faire speaks to the emergence of quality aficiona- and making modern products with them.” dos, also partial to Barania and Taurillon skins. In his view, experimentation can come from the “There is an education process, especially in Asia, chosen material, the shape, or the craft skill. “As where this whole concept of having everything long as something is well made, I think that’s what scratch-less, spotless and spic-and-span is really counts,” he said. “It can be in steel, it can be in strong, but you can see that changing,” he said. rubber — what’s important is the craft, and to

Nair and Davin agreed that word of mouth is the make something amazing out of it.” Moynat of courtesy Bag photographs

120 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Trend: Agenda Tux Luxe The tuxedo, a longtime favorite of ladies from Marlene Dietrich to 1

Accessories Betty Catroux to Madonna, is still on fire. This season, designers imagined the black-and-white 2 combo on striking accessories. By ROXANNE ROBINSON

5

3 4

6

1 Francesco Russo’s calf leather ankle boot.

2 Cole Haan’s 7 hand-finished leather 8 penny loafer.

3 Delvaux’s calf leather and patent leather bag.

4 Valentino Garavani’s metal minaudière.

5 Valextra’s soft calfskin clutch.

6 René Caovilla’s leather and Swarovski crystal high heel. 9 7 Olgana’s satin sandal with pleated napa. 8 Sergio Rossi’s satin sandal. 10 9 Piaget’s white gold, diamond and sapphire Gouverneur watch with alligator strap. 10 Chanel’s metal, resin, glass and strass SHOWROOM35 JEWELRY SHOWROOM bracelets. 19 WEST 34TH STREET 6TH FLOOR NEW YORK, NEW YORK 10001 212.868.2770

122 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photograph by GEORGE CHINSEE Prop Styling by RACHEL STICKLEY ADVERTISEMENT AccessoriesBriefs

A NEW DEAL HE SAID IT PRECIOSA Rocha’s Bags & PANTONE “You don’t With Botkier have to be OCoco Rocha is adding FASHION “handbag designer” to her religious to résumé. The model has appreciate ACCESSORY teamed with Botkier New York on a capsule collection the beauty of RETAIL TIME of bags due out in November Getting A COLOR for holiday. “I’ve wanted to a church or create my own handbags Handle On TRENDS for a long time, but I didn’t be in a gang Success just want to lend my name to to wear a SPRING something and have no input,” OHandbag maker Tsatsas of Frankfurt is making a SUMMER 2016 Rocha said. Added Monica tattoo. People Botkier, designer and founder mark with its unique Fluke of the brand: “I’d done a few don’t always bag as it prepares to open collaborations in the past, but its first store in June. this was different. Coco is a associate my Its 14 artisanal designs, Join our Afternoon Tea Party and take ranging from around $780 Congratulations fashion person...and she came high heels a bite out of the sweet and delicious prepared. Her vision is strong to $2,000, are printed color palettes for spring/summer 2016! and directional — it’s like with sex or inside with serial numbers, lined with brilliant blue In cooperation with Pantone color trend Botkier amplified.” The eight styles, retailing from $268 to fetishism.” glove leather and made predictions, Preciosa have once again $448, were inspired by four of — Christian Louboutin from high-grade skins prepared four fashion and fashion acces- Rocha’s favorite cities: New on the popularity of bond- from animals reared for York, London, Paris and Milan. age-theme accessories in meat production. The Fluke sory colour trends for next spring/summer ($895), its one-handled — LAUREN MCCARTHY mainstream markets. season. Full of whimsical and playful draped number, is a colors, there is something for everyone bestseller. Tsatsas received a 2015 at this gathering. Try any of the delectable German Design Award color combinations! and is carried in 15 shops globally, including New York’s Roztayger, Seoul’s My Boon and London’s LN-CC. CUPCAKE SWEETNESS The label, founded in 2012, projects sales of 100,000 euros ($107,800) this year. — SUSAN STONE

CITRUS PUNCH

GO SEE Diamond Dreams OOpening today and

FRUITY SUNDAE HOT SELLER running through May 11, the “Dream of Diamonds,” Marni’s Market-Maker exhibition at the Gemolog- Womens. ical Institute of America in ’ Le Bon Marché, which built an interactive pop-up Carlsbad, Calif., coincides Young market to celebrate Marni’s 20th anniversary, sold with the publication of a Men s. Mens. 30-pound book. Featuring ’ ’ CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY 405 build-your-own necklaces within the market’s 25 pieces totaling 4,000 CHEESECAKE first five days — a high volume the store attributes carats from diamond Footwear. houses Alder, Chatila, to the item’s low price. Starting at about $32, the Chow Tai Fook, Diacore, jewelry is favored by “chic Parisians who are buying them Diarough, Mouawad and Munnu The Gem Palace, for their next beach trip,” said Le Bon Marché’s group style highlights include a pair director, Jennifer Cuvillier. Shoppers assemble the necklaces of boots set with 1,527 from an array of classic Marni components like felted carats of diamonds and a 50.05 D-flawless diamond shapes and obscure ribbons. The market, up until May briolette. Another highlight: DISCOVER MORE AT 16, also offers tote bags, sculptures, T-shirts and fresh-cut a platinum and old-mine trends.preciosa.com flowers — enabling Parisian women to treat themselves diamond flower ring featur- ing an 11-carat center stone. AUGUST 17–19, 2015 à la Mrs. Dalloway. — MISTY WHITE SIDELL — MARCY MEDINA Kellermann Gerhardt by Images; Fluke Chelsea Lauren/Getty by Rocha sourcing at magic opens august 16 Find it here. Las Vegas & Mandalay Bay Convention Centers register now at attendmagic.com 124 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM "INSPIRATION DRIVES US. EDITED BY ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ CREATION IS MarketsAgenda OUR PASSION. TOMORROW BELONGS TO US." Anne PARIS IFM Emmanuel HEAD-GENEVE Sarah BERLIN GENEVA ESMOD

Zoe FIT FLORENCE

icture a typical middle class family. Liisa LONDON What comes to mind? CHELSEA COLLEGE Perhaps a suburban OF ART AND DESIGN home in Indiana, Geor- gia, or Long Island, which is the birthplace of Levittown — a social petri dish of the post- World War II American PDream. There are two late-model SUVs in the driveway, a well-groomed lawn and two or three children — smartphones in hand — getting ready for a weekend soccer match. Inside the house, the living room has a 55-inch Samsung flat-screen HDTV and new furniture. In Xavier the recently remodeled kitchen there are high- er-end, stainless steel finished appliances. PARIS COLLEGEPARIS All is seemingly normal. OF ART Peel away the veneer of this suburban bliss, though, and there’s another tale to tell — one that BRUSSELS many economists — and politicians on the stump Delphine — warn is the evaporation of the middle class. It’s ENSAV LA CAMBRE a story of a family who has less household wealth than prior generations; is saddled with higher food bills; faces high property and school taxes, and has lived with real wages that have stagnated for years as well as household liquidity (or cash on hand) No One that is virtually nonexistent. Welcome to the reality of the new American Dream, and the new “middle class.” For retailers, fashion apparel companies — and anyone who sells consumer products in the U.S. In the for that matter — this new consumer presents a challenge. How do you cater to a customer who is aspirational for higher-end goods, but is living nearly paycheck to paycheck? Or a household that just spent $10,000 on a weeklong vacation Middle in Florida, but is spending less money on clothes #wearepremierevision at the mall? Or the Millennial who works a low- A redefined middle wage job and lives at home with her parents, and only frequents off-price retailers when apparel market is changing shopping (or relies on mom and dad to buy her 15-17 Sept. 2015 clothes, even at age 25)? premierevision.com the retail and fashion Jim Cusson, president of retail branding agency Theory House, said, “For years, analysts have apparel landscape. warned that shifting socioeconomics will pose a threat to retailers and brands, but that has

By ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ © Aurore Valade / Picturetank really not played out — until now. We see a more

126 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Illustration by GIACOMO GAMBINERI pronounced income gap that has high-end retail- The Gap Grows class isn’t disappearing — it’s being redefined. So ers thriving while once-stable banners like Sears, what can retailers do to address these changes? Creating opportunities. Delivering results. J.C. Penney and Kmart are on the ropes. We also Middle class households see less It could be as simple as knowing the customer. see Millennial-driven banners like H&M and For- income while the rich get richer. Kohl’s, which is positioned squarely in the middle, Agenda ever 21 expanding as Millennials shift from logo- is trying to do just that. In a recent ratings report, driven banners like Abercrombie.” Fitch analysts praised Kohl’s for its “continued Robert Reich, professor of public policy at the 1960’s focus on upgrading its national brand presence, 1970’s University of California at Berkeley and senior fel- adding over 15 new brands to its portfolio in 2014, low at the Blum Center for Developing Economies, realizing 180 basis point growth in national brand Markets served as Secretary of Labor during the Clinton penetration to 50 percent of sales.” administration. In research notes, blog posts and Kohl’s is targeting brand-hungry, aspirational, editorials, Reich argued that the widening gap value-hunting consumers — which is a complicated between the rich and the poor is bad news for the set of preferences to sell against. A big part of its has agreed to sell economy. The U.S. economy needs a robust mid- effort is aimed at Millennials. On that front, Kohl’s dle class. Last fall in a blog post, Reich wrote the is joined by retailers such as Target Corp., J.C. “real job creators are not ceos or corporations or Penney Co. Inc., Wal-Mart Stores Inc., Macy’s Inc. The gap wealthy investors. The job creators are members and a host of specialty retailers from American between of America’s vast middle class and the poor, whose Eagle Outfitters and Abercrombie & Fitch to Urban to middle-income purchases cause businesses to expand and invest.” Outfitters Inc. and Zumiez Inc. All are vying for the and In a attention of the Millennial generation, and viewing upper-income ut that vast middle class is The separate them as a panacea to the market’s economic woes. families is at its losing economic steam. In a research Pew Millennials, though, are inconsistent when it Pending historical report last fall, Pew Research center also Research comes to brand loyalty. In a “Top 50 Millennial widest, Center said the gap between noted that Center Brand Ranking Report” released last fall by digital according to middle-income and upper-in- the “median report, the advertising agency Moosylvania, 18 of the top 50 the Pew come families is at its historical wealth median favorite brands were new to the list as compared Research Ohana & Co. advised P&G widest. The research center among net worth of to the prior year’s survey. This means 36 percent B Center. said the “median net worth of upper- middle-tier of their favorite brands were new ones. New to upper-income families is 6.6 times greater than income households the list was Wal-Mart, which came in fifth place. that of middle-income families” as compared to families fell. Sure, Millennials are the biggest generation the Sixties and Seventies. And to be considered increased.” ever — composed of 92 million people compared “upper income,” a family of four must earn to the Baby Boomer’s 76.4 million. But according $132,000 a year. Pew also said the median net to a recent report from Goldman Sachs, this has acquired has made has acquired has acquired an investment in worth of middle-income tier households fell to a minority interest in has acquired $93,150 in 2010 from $152,950 in 2006 — a statistic not lost on 2016 presidential candidates. $93,150 From Jeb Bush to Hillary Clinton, the early cam- 2010 “For years, analysts have paign rhetoric is laced with references to income

inequality. But it’s a sensitive topic that causes a warned that shifting Ohana & Co. advised Kose Ohana & Co. advised AmorePacific Ohana & Co. advised Assouline Ohana & Co. advised France Croco Ohana & Co. advised J. Mendel lot of angst — and covers a lot of potential voters. socioeconomics will pose In a report last month, Pew Research revealed $595,300 that nearly 90 percent of respondents described 2010 $152, 950 a threat to retailers themselves as “middle class” despite having vari- 2006 ous income levels. and brands, but that has has acquired has made The former secretary of state, in launching her really not played out the fragrance business of has acquired an investment in has sold its interest in campaign, zeroed in on this issue. “Americans Strategic review have fought their way back from tough economic — until now.” CHILDREN times, but the deck is still stacked in favor of those $639,400 WORLDWIDE FASHION at the top,” Clinton said. “Everyday Americans 2013 — THEORY HOUSE need a champion and I want to be that champion.” “Everyday Americans” is a carefully worded Ohana & Co. advised Sun City Ohana & Co. advised Inter Parfums Ohana & Co. advised Lanvin Ohana & Co. advised Diptyque Ohana & Co. advised Contrarian Capital phrase that’s extremely inclusive and pedestrian — like having “everyday low prices” — without generation will see some of the largest percentages specifically mentioning the words “middle class,” of their incomes going to student-debt loads than which Clinton campaign officials have indicated any other. Many are living with their parents, and Established in 1994, Ohana & Co. has accompanied its clients are a no-no because they imply instability in Population (%) Wealth (%) have weaker earnings and lower employment today’s world. levels, according to the report. This may explain from the US, China, Korea, Japan, France, Italy, Germany and many more countries, Americans are consumers, after all. Greg Petro, 10 77 why Wal-Mart is now a favorite brand: Millennials chief executive officer of First Insight Inc., has a are broke and can’t afford to shop anywhere else. in their successful M&A transactions in the fashion and beauty industries. pulse on consumers, retailers and vendors alike. As Baby Boomers age, it’s unclear if Millennials Petro closely tracks macroeconomic issues and OWNS — who will make up two-thirds of the U.S. work- said from his seat there’s a shift occurring at the force in ten years — will have enough spending According to From 1995 through top-income quintiles. Petro said over the long power to sustain the economy. According to the the National to last year, the term, it’s “not necessarily that the middle class Bureau of Labor Statistics, the greatest job growth Bureau of growth of Real is disappearing, but more that we’re seeing an areas over the next decade will be in low-paying Economic Median Household acceleration of wealth at the top.” In his view, the positions: retail salespeople, cashiers and com- Research. Income has not issue is more complex than it seems, and there are bined food-service and food-preparation workers. kept pace with the macroeconomic factors to consider. It’s noteworthy that the modern American growth of Real For the lower- and middle- income groups, for consumer is not abandoning retail stores. They Gross Domestic example, lower gas prices are bolstering local are still shopping for electronics, home goods, Product. economies and making life easier for many fami- apparel, accessories and footwear as well as lies. And these savings are being spent. However, making large purchases on durable goods. After Petro said this tier of consumer is not spending all, consumer spending on goods and services con- on fashion apparel and accessories. Instead, tinues to garner two-thirds of U.S. gross domestic PARIS - NEW YORK - LOS ANGELES they’re eating out more and doling out money on product. other “experiential” purchases that include travel The challenge for everyone, from politicians to and lodging. 6.6times greater retailers is to figure out exactly how the “middle

In short, Petro and others contend the middle class” is changing — and adapt. Carlos Monteiro by: Infographic www.ohanaco.com

128 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Investment Guide

Agenda So, you want to invest in the public apparel market? Use this handy guide to learn more about the top industry players. Markets

START HERE: What type Brands that sell to retailers, LYCRA® and MOVES YOU™ are trademarks of INVISTA. Wholesale or pure- play license their brands and-or have “vertical” companies of company interests their own stores. you?

OXFORD INDUSTRIES INC. G-III APPAREL RALPH LAUREN This company GROUP LTD. CORP. has global recognition and features broad This firm is a market segmentation. lifestyle It offers: men’s and apparel TICKER RL women’s apparel, as company with PRICE well as children’s well-known $130.60 52-WEEK RANGE wear, accessories, brands such $127.29 - $187.49 MARKET CAP footwear and as Tommy $11.55 billion INVESTOR RELATIONS home goods. Bahama and investor.ralphlauren.com Lilly Pulitzer.

QUIKSILVER INC. VF CORP. TICKER OXM G-III makes GIII licensed PRICE $112.65 $75.45 apparel VF Corp.’s 52-WEEK RANGE $50.13 - $79.55 $68.45 - $115.28 with labels stable of MARKET CAP $1.19 billion $2.35 billion such as brands include: INVESTOR RELATIONS investor.oxfordinc.com/ ir.g-iii.com/ Andrew The North Marc, Face, Vans, Calvin Klein Wrangler, Lee, and Ellen Seven For All Tracy, Mankind and among Jansport, VFC others. among many others and $70.40 across several $57.57 - $77.83 PERRY ELLIS market $31.97 billion INTERNATIONAL INC. segments. vfc.com

PERY $23.19 GUESS INC. $13.48 - $27.00 $359.6 million pery.com/Investor/Home Guess Inc. is Surf and ZQK a lifestyle brand snowboard is that cuts across This apparel maker has global brand recognition with labels such as at the core of $1.85 numerous namesake Perry Ellis, Rafaella, Penguin and Jantzen, among many others. this lifestyle $1.40 - $7.98 categories and brand $327.3 million product segments. that includes ir.quiksilver.com/ targeting children’s wear. GES ® ONWARD HANESBRANDS INC. $18.59 ~ HOLDINGS CO. $16.61 - $29.50 $1.61 billion HBI This Japanese company PVH CORP. investors.guess.com/ operates more than 20 $33.51 The fiber that moves the night. subsidiaries that include $18.03 - $34.80 intimates, accessories $13.49 billion This firm and apparel. ir.hanesbrands.com/ has a diverse assortment LYCRA®´EHUQHYHUVWRSVPRYLQJ of brands such as: Hanesbrands Inc. is more than PVH Calvin Klein Jeans, $QGQRZZHDUHPRYLQJPRUHSHRSOHWKDQHYHU 8016 boxers and briefs – it has brands such Tommy Hilfiger, as Hanes, Champion, Leggs and ® ¥838 $106.50 Izod and Speedo, ,19,67$LVLQYHVWLQJLQDQH[FLWLQJQHZ/<&5$ EUDQGVWUDWHJ\ Playtex, among others, which are $93.80 - $133.89 ¥609.00 - ¥855.00 among others. ¥144.91 billion popular at mass retailers and $8.69 billion :LWKPRUHSHRSOHORRNLQJRXWIRUWKH/<&5$® onward-hd.co.jp/site/english/ department stores, as well. pvh.com/investor_relations.aspx EUDQGLQFORWKHVLW­VVXUHWRPRYH\RXUEXVLQHVV

For more insights into public retail and apparel companies, check out the WWD Global Stock Tracker, which can be -RLQRXUPRYHPHQWDWFRQQHFWO\FUDFRPRUFRQWDFW found on WWD.com. (Stock prices and market capitalization are in local currencies as of April 15, 2015). &-3OXPPHUDW&\QWKLD-3OXPPHU#LQYLVWDFRPRU WROHDUQPRUH 130 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Illustrations by CARLOS MONTEIRO

MarketsBriefs

QUOTED TRADE AND POLICY E-COMMERCE INNERWEAR OGermaine Picket Omnibus Bill Has Global Reach Looking believes her new lingerie “The other lines Global Digital collection, GemPicket, OTrade preference “The 10-year extension Good targets a forgotten available are programs important to of AGOA is critical to Ad Spending Day and group: the 29- to 55-year- the fashion industry our industry because it Night old woman who wants beautiful, that have expired or were provides certainty as to look good — day up for renewal have more of our members, and night. but they’re a new life in Congress. both apparel and foot- “There’s price resis- designed A bipartisan group of wear, are looking to Africa $44.47B tance in this category, but lawmakers introduced as the next big sourcing there is a customer who for the 18-year- an omnibus trade pack- destination,” said Nate is being underserved and age that holds significant Herman, vice president of who wants higher-quality old body. benefits for companies international trade at the product,” said Picket, with global production American Apparel & Foot- who spent 10 years creat- I’m designing stretching from Haiti to wear Association, adding ing Ralph Lauren’s global for myself, Lesotho, Africa. that the same holds true retail interiors. Picket Industry trade groups for GSP, which helps DENIM $3.43B $1.88B noticed a void in the mar- but the are lauding the AGOA accessories importers. ketplace while shopping Extension and Enhance- Julia Hughes, president L.A. Style in Asia and having trouble unique fits ment Act of 2015 that of the U.S. Fashion finding something to would extend the African Industry Association, Lucky Brand’s Kin Ying Lee on L.A. wear to bed. “It was either and styles $7.2B Growth and Opportunity said, “We are hopeful street style: “Definitely a much more oversexualized or flannel will appeal Act for a decade, renew following this week of pajamas,” she said. the Generalized System mark-up hearings in both casual feel. I think that kind of washed Hence came the idea to women of Preferences program the Senate and House for GemPicket, her line that expired in July 2013 that there will be quick attitude in terms of the casual laid- of loungewear and of all ages.” and extend trade bene- action on approving this backness is really kind of nice to see. lingerie that sits nicely — Chris Evert on the fits in the Hope and Help legislation. This package, others $24.61B between comfy and launch of her tennis line programs for products once it gets to the floor, I I tend to personally gravitate toward sexy and will launch this

for women over 30 from Haiti into 2025. think, will pass.” casualwear anyway. I love denim.” Carlos Monteiro by Infographic Source: eMarketer. Market share of global digital advertising by search engine. July at Journelle.

132 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM 133 OUR PLACE IS CHIC

WELCOME TO BROOKFIELD PLACE, THE HEIGHT OF LUXURY SHOPPING, DINING AND ARTS IN DOWNTOWN MANHATTAN

MON APR 20 TriBeCa Film Festival 136 THE HEART OF THE NEW DOWNTOWN LUXURY RETAIL, ARTS & PERFORMANCE, HUDSON EATS & LE DISTRICT Karlie Kloss

230 VESEY STREET ON THE HUDSON RIVER WATERFRONT | BROOKFIELDPLACENY.COM MON AND FRI APR 20 & 24 Whitney Museum Parties 140

WWD.COM APRIL 29, 2015 135 “I’m here to support Bob,” Cadenet Taylor, Laura Love, Con- MON Denis Leary said, flashing stance Jablonski, Sofia Sanchez APR his toothy grin, slightly Barrenechea, Anna Ewers, Jamie 20 stained from red wine. Bochert — all looking polished in The actor was at Chanel’s their borrowed wares. The latest TriBeCa Film Festival Artists dinner, addition to the Chanel’s friend-of- an annual affair thrown at Balth- the-brand stable, 20-year-old Car- azar to toast the festival’s talent son Meyer— the youngest daughter (though, with the exception of Zoë of Universal Studios president and Kravitz, none of the talent from chief operating officer Ron Meyer the fest was actually invited. No and sister of Jennifer Meyer — matter!). “I’m not big into parties,” worked the room better than most Leary continued. “But I’m here for seasoned pros. Also at the bras- Bob.” As in Bob De Niro. serie was the expected sprinkling Leary was distinctly in the of esoteric artists (during cocktail, minority. The real reason most Dustin Yellin played the role of came? Chanel. conversation-starter, wandering The room was full of brand around with a leafy sprig dangling groupies. There were the nocturnal from his mouth, occasionally models and socials who show shaking it at people, mumbling up to pretty much all their events something about “blessing” them) — Karlie Kloss, Vanessa Traina, and chic actresses — Kravitz, Uma Scott Campbell Harley Viera-Newton, Atlanta de Thurman, Lake Bell, et al. ► and Lake Bell

Vanessa Traina Snow

Dustin Yellin

Denis Leary and Ann Lembeck Chanel Downtown TriBeCa Film Festival Photographed by Steve Eichner Nora Zehetner Atlanta de Cadenet

Constance Jablonski Anja Rubik

Michiel Huisman and Tara Elders

Minnie Driver alice + olivia by Stacey Bendet will participate in a three-year partnership with the CFDA that will help support the organization in its efforts to strengthen the infl uence and success of American Fashion. Stacey Bendet wears her fi rst collaboration Stephanie Seymour print by Domingo Zapata. Credit line: The Coveteur/Trunk Archives

136 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Nadja Bender, Peter Brant Jr. and Harry Brant. André Balazs

Laura Love, Harley Viera Newton and Annabelle Dexter-Jones.

Heidi Mount

CHANEL DINNER CONTINUED: “I came last to me,” Heidi Mount, across the year, too,” Leary clarified. “Last table, piped in. “I’ll pile them up here Lindsey Wixson Eve Hewson year, Sophia Loren was supposed next to me,” she said, collecting Bernard Smith to be here and I’d never seen her, the book. “I’m hoarding them for LipArt and Joan Smalls so that was the main reason I went. myself,” she whispered to her I mean, she’s f--king Sophia Loren.” neighbor with a wink. But the biggest star to turn After the steak frites was up was De Niro himself — lord of cleared, dessert — indiscernible Introducing the festival and probably the only cakey things — was served and person in the room to have seen guests began to filter out. It was any of its films. He swept in just as then that people began to notice PAINT WASH LiquidLiquid Lip Colour people were looking for their who hadn’t bothered to show up place cards. at all — Binx Walton and a few “Are these decorative?” Anya other of-the-moment models. The A creamy fresh coat of liquid ccolourolour with evereveryy Taylor-Joy asked tablemates once main conspiracy theory involved stroke. Plunge in and let it washsh over you.you. De Niro had arrived and it was OK the date: April 20. “No, no,” a guest to sit. She was holding up the Kiki refuted, waving their icing-cov- 9 demi-matte shades Smith tome placed on her dinner ered utensil. “I’ve gotten a bunch seat, looking over it appraisingly. of Snapchats from Binx. They’re The actress was clearly a newbie not smoking. They’ve just been to the dinner (they gift art books drinking since, like, 9 a.m. for some every year, leaving them on guests’ reason.” dinner seats). “Yeah, yeah, give it — TAYLOR HARRIS

138 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM The Inaugural Whitney Museum Photographed by Steve Eichner and Evan Falk

MARCH / APRIL 2015

The scene at the Whitney Museum opening. Mario Sorrenti

On a late April after- Laurie Simmons, who still re- MON SPRING noon, an elderly man stood members what she wore to her first APR 20 amid a bustling crowd in biennial in 1975, had a favorite spot black tie as he roamed in the new building. FRI APR the spacious galleries of a “When I stood in front of my 24 new building in New York’s husband’s painting, I was just pretty STYLE Meatpacking District. damn excited and really proud,” she It was Jasper Johns said, referring to Carroll Dunham and he was taking the temperature (Lena’s dad). Wainwright closed out ALL of the new Renzo Piano-designed a very New York night, appropriate- SIMPLE Whitney Museum. ly, with a cover of Billy Joel’s “New MODERN “I really don’t think I can answer York State of Mind.” Solange Knowles any questions,” the reclusive mas- To cap off the week, Max Mara ABOARD! ter told a reporter. He didn’t need threw its own lavish party at the CLASSICS to. His presence alone said it all. museum Friday night. The guest Great Train Trips to This was a big deal, the opening of list was largely made up of artists the brand-new museum with poten- — including Simmons, Wilson, Julian THE NEW Take Around the World tial to redraw the New York cultural Schnabel — and a pair of actresses: landscape, if it hasn’t already. It was Dakota Fanning and Sarah Jessica COLLECTIBLES the first night in a series timed to Parker, both in Max Mara, of course. THE EAGLE inaugurate the venue with as much “I’m so freaking excited,” Parker fanfare as possible, and the art said. “I feel like I won the lottery. All MOLTO HUNTERS world — represented by artists and this is great and good, but all I want collectors like Chuck Close, Mark to do is start roaming the halls.” MILANO! of MONGOLIA di Suvero, Fred Wilson, Leonard Solange Knowles, Prabal Lauder and Michael Bloomberg Gurung, Betsey Johnson, Barbara — was beaming as it went floor to Bush and Julia Restoin Roitfeld HELLO, LETTER floor, taking in a sprawling overview were among those traipsing the of the permanent collection. floors after dinner. MRS. FROM PARIS “I’m just kind of blown away,” “Did you ever read ‘[From] The Cindy Sherman said. “It seems Mixed Up Files of Mrs. Basil E. HERRERA so much better than I expected. Frankweiler’?” asked Parker. “It’s It doesn’t seem like a traditional wonderful. Go get it on your Kindle museum.” or electronic machine. It’s about INSIDE THE Some appreciated the terrace two children who run away from crawling with colorful chairs home and hide in the Metropolitan DEPARTMENT Plus Leonard Lauder painted by Mary Heilmann. Others, Museum of Art, and it’s a and Judith Glickman like Rufus Wainwright, preferred heavenly night.” So it was. STORE Alexander Calder’s beloved — ERIK MAZA AND RUSSELL “Calder’s Circus.” LAUREN MCCARTHY Chuck Close WESTBROOK Julie Macklowe Rufus Wainwright ON SNEAKERS & CASH

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Zoë Kravitz Sarah Jessica Parker

140 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Arts & Culture BY ALLY BETKER Assouline, the fashion crowd’s favorite book publisher WWD

Driving Force Actress Sarah Sutherland Takes The TriBeCa Film Festival.

Sutherland wears an Alena Akhmadullina silk dress embroidered with semiprecious stones and Avant Garde jewelry inside The Standard Grill at The Standard High Line.

142 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photographs by JENNA GREENE Styling by MAYTE ALLENDE Arts & Culture

Sarah Sutherland arrives at The their relationships and the books Standard High Line hotel without that they read and the way that they an entourage or even a manager watched films. I think I just naturally in sight. She’s carrying a garment gravitated toward living with that bag filled with options her stylist kind of richness and attention to pulled for the premiere of the film human behavior and complexity, and “Shut Up and Drive,” a drama about sort of being endlessly fascinated a relationship forged during a road and mildly obsessed with living in trip that debuted at the TriBeCa that messy gray area.” Film Festival. Dressed in a Theory While at NYU she wrote a pajama top, chunky UNIF platform one-woman play called “The Skin of shoes and vintage trousers pulled a Grape” and performed alongside from the wardrobe department of Zoe Worth, her “Shut Up and Drive” “Veep” — the political satire in which costar. “Zoe and I met in middle she plays Julia Louis-Dreyfus’ sullen school. She had this fantastic pale daughter — the unassuming Suther- pink coat with a fur collar that she land flips through a rack of clothes, would wear in California in the sun. gravitating toward Seventies colors We have a long history of working and silhouettes. together and supporting each “My style is vintage fashion other’s work,” says Sutherland. meets Hot Topic on a bad day,” “Drive” marks the first film the she laughs. “I’m also a big fan of friends have done together, though, ‘Clueless’-inspired clothes.” Her and because of their history the long wavy hair and hazel green eyes audition process was far from lend themselves well to that hippie conventional. “Zoe came over to aesthetic, though her demeanor is my house and was talking over the equal parts bohemian-laid-back and story points of this script that she quirky-contemplative. Sutherland’s had been developing and working self-effacing attitude may not be un- on with [director Melanie Shaw]. She usual for an up-and-coming actress, was asking me for advice about a but it is somewhat surprising given lot of things and I was speaking very her lineage. Dad is Kiefer Sutherland, candidly, but I had no idea that she of “Stand by Me,” “Young Guns” and was sussing me out and had me in “24,” and her grandfather is Donald mind,” she says. “Then she asked me

“I naturally gravitated toward living with a kind of richness and attention to human behavior and complexity.”

immediately after I left if I wanted to go to Disneyland with her and Mel, who I hadn’t met yet. And I thought, of course. Which was essentially, unbeknownst to me, my audition.” It’s an audition method that can be attributed to The Collectin, a the- ater group that Worth founded with fellow NYU student Alden Ehrenreich in 2009 (Shaw and Sutherland are “Beneath the Harvest Sky” members). Now based in Los Ange- les, The Collectin meets for weekly workshops and performs monthly in Hollywood, focusing on a creative process that’s built around the specific qualities of an actor. “Shut Up and Drive” is the second feature film to come out of the community — Shaw also wrote and directed the first, “Running Wild.” “Mel just really wants people to feel natural and have chemistry,” says Sutherland. “Shut Up and Drive” “Part of the audition process was also going to Collectin meetings, and that was really cool because I’m The actress in a Sutherland (“M*A*S*H,” “Ordinary so accustomed to having a tribe of cashmere sweater People” and “The Hunger Games”). creative people and collaborators by The Row and a But if anything, the 27-year-old from going to Tisch, and I felt a huge silk Samuji dress. keeps a safe distance between her absence of that in Los Angeles.” family and her career. Last April, in As a result, “Drive” was a home- an interview with David Letterman, coming of sorts. “A lot of people Kiefer told the “Late Show” host, “I’ve that worked on the film were people Wardell and Dawes provided the never smiles,” recalls Sutherland. they were doing and my job was actually offered her two jobs, which I knew from my years at NYU so it soundtrack to the trip. “When I’m playing her I always imag- done,” she says. she’s turned down respectfully, was like being able to do this epic This is the second film Suther- ine I have something just slightly foul Filming for season five of “Veep” because she really wants to do this road trip with your best friends land has had at the TriBeCa Film smelling lining my upper lip because is on the horizon. As for other future her own way.” and create work at the same time,” Festival — she played a potato I feel like her general disposition is projects, Sutherland just wrapped Her own way involved a degree says Sutherland. “However fun, it’s farmer with bigger ambitions in last just disdain and disgust for lots of “Chronic” — a film from writer-direc- from New York University’s Tisch also grueling to be on the road and year’s “Beneath the Harvest Sky” things around her.” tor Michel Franco and starring Tim Experimental Theatre Wing. She working however many hours that — but it’s her role in “Veep” that has It’s also the gig that has taught Roth about a nurse practitioner who calls her desire to act “a slow burn. we did and with the budget that we made her face recognizable. Kind her the most. “‘Veep’ was my first assists terminally ill patients that will It started with the fact that I was had.” Filming started in Los Angeles of. “There was this really sweet girl job that wasn’t theater outside of premiere at the Cannes Film Festival an avid reader of plays as a kid. and continued through Arizona, New who worked at a coffee shop that I college and to step into a show with next month. She also has plans to My family didn’t directly influence Mexico, Texas and New Orleans. frequented when we were shooting all these comedic heavyweights write her own work. “I write every day. it, but a lot of what I learned from “It was really amazing to have this [‘Veep’] in Baltimore and I remember and people that are beyond skilled I would love to write a play, I would both [my dad] and my grandfather mirrored experience of a road trip her coming up to me and saying, ‘I improvisers was really intimidating love to write a film, I’m interested in di- had to do with observing the way through the Southwest,” she says, didn’t recognize you initially because and yet they made it easy. I just had recting, all of it,” she says. “I just want that they conducted their lives and adding that sing-alongs to Eminem, you smile so much.’ My character to listen and respond to whatever to learn as much as I possibly can.”

144 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Arts & Culture

High Line

Chelsea Market Untitled restaurant ve.

at The Whitney Museum 9th A 99 Gansevoort Street W 14th S t.

Gansevoort St.

from the Union Square Greenmarket as well as directly from local farmers — there’s even someone on staff known as the “in-house forager.” The vegetable portion of Anthony’s menu lists such items as grilled Untitled: leeks with chili citrus vinaigrette and roasted carrots with toasted peanuts. “They’re not really intended to act as side dishes, although I think Eat Your Art Out some people will use them that way, because that’s just how we grew up and that’s fine,” he says. “I think they At the Whitney Robert Indiana’s “EAT” sign are the kind of dishes that will be hangs above the bar. creative enough to entice people to order them in the beginning, middle and maybe even end of a meal.” There are many facets of the (This doctrine could also be viewed Whitney Museum’s move downtown Black bass with as marketing for his cookbook, “V is that are noteworthy. There’s the asparagus and for Vegetables,” out in October.) Renzo Piano-designed facade, the spiced mushroom “We try not to be overbearing fact that more of the museum’s broth. when it comes to our excitement permanent collection will see the about serving seasonal foods,” light of day and the realization that Anthony says. “For me it’s a nonne- Manhattan’s Meatpacking District gotiable. If I can’t do it, then I won’t has officially been commandeered be cooking it.” Unlike at Gramercy by the Establishment. On a recent Tavern, where those concepts sunny morning, though, with light are applied to a slightly masculine streaming past the High Line and space with rustic appeal, Untitled into the glass jewel box, most of features 30-foot ceilings, glass walls the buzz was taking place inside and an open kitchen that looks like Untitled, the official eatery of the a sleek sushi bar. Meticulous plating new Whitney. Helmed by Gramercy of each dish — demonstrated by Tavern chef Michael Anthony, the chef de cuisine Suzanne Cupps — restaurant was crawling with front will reflect the surroundings. “We’re and back of house employees thinking about following the inspi- training for opening day on May 1st. “High-quality ration of those minimalist lines, as Anthony himself was busy instilling cooking and well as the landscape [of the High his sense of service into the team. Line] itself. When I walk up there I “Not only is it a rare event that a thoughtfully see this groomed nature, to the way cultural institution like the Whitney the plants have been organized, and will move its home, but it’s moving sourced food yet they’re allowed to grow in this downtown, and with that comes don’t have to kind of wild nature,” Anthony says. “I the feeling of very friendly open- think all of that is going to inspire the ness,” Anthony says. “They want be off-putting aesthetic of the food that appears the museum to feel accessible and or insanely on the menu.” approachable.” It’s a concept that The stylized food will serve as the Anthony has taken to heart — and expensive,” says main form of decor in the space (“In extended to his menu. “I hope people no way are we attempting to try to recognize that high-quality cooking Untitled chef compete with the artwork,” laughs and thoughtfully sourced food don’t Michael Anthony. Anthony), which features white oak have to be off-putting or insanely tabletops, a stainless steel open expensive,” he continues. kitchen, and red cushion chairs. Untitled may bear the same The one piece of art that will be name as the former restaurant at incorporated — taken directly from the uptown location, but the new the uptown location — is a light-up iteration is a reimagination of the Robert Indiana sign that appropri- original Danny Meyer concept with ately blinks “EAT.” an entirely different menu under As for how Anthony is adapting to Anthony’s lead. The food will draw his momentous new home, he’s both inspiration from Anthony’s commit- appreciative and in awe of his shift ment to seasonal cooking, one of in work culture. “It’s a doctoral thesis his signatures at Gramercy Tavern. on the restaurant business,” he says. Think charred beets with sugar Chef de Cuisine “I feel like I went through my master’s snap peas and pea shoots, grilled Suzanne Cupps program at Gramercy Tavern over monkfish with green and black garlic plates roasted the last eight years and now this is a and cured fluke and radishes with carrots. new level of learning.”

trout roe. Ingredients will be sourced — ALLY BETKER Carlos Monteiro Map by

146 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photographs by JENNA GREENE Arts & Culture

Aymeline Valade ass model, just like, la la lala. I wanted with two Yves Saint to be taken seriously. I never wore Laurent dresses at makeup, I never wore dresses. I the Museum at the was a real tomboy. I wanted to be Fashion Institute of listened to for my opinion and not Technology. get attention for my butt.” After she tried and was bored by an internship in journalism at 23 — she holds a license in communica- tions, a sort of bachelor’s — she was Making in Milan, where Nicolas Ghesquière cast her exclusively in Balenciaga’s spring 2011 show. An Impact Her career took off after that — a photo shoot with Craig McDean Aymeline led to opening Alexander Wang the next season. As one of the top 50 models in the world, she has her pick Valade of jobs. “I say no to a lot of jobs, even jobs that pay $250,000, $500,000, because I want to keep the standard Leaps to of quality very high. Because what matters to me is not the money or being famous, because that is Acting something that goes.” She was equally laissez-faire By ERIK MAZA about taking on the role of Catroux. “I was a bit afraid because if I Aymeline Valade was sitting was bad, I could lose my career as outside the Fashion Institute of a model,” she recalls. “I thought, ‘I’m Technology in New York on a recent not a real actress. Maybe I’m going afternoon. Though she’s walked for to look like s--t because they’re [the some of the biggest designers in the other actors] better.’” world, no one recognized her. When she finally committed in In her customary head-to-toe March 2013, she gave up modeling black uniform, she could have full-stop and dived into the life passed for a student. As a model, of Saint Laurent’s famous muse. Valade’s signature is her versatility, Though she didn’t have access to her unique ability to disappear into the character she’s supposed to “Now people are channel for any given designer. She can go from fierce punk to blond telling me I’m an femme fatale to a vision from the actress. I want to 18th century at Chanel’s Métiers d’Art show in New York say, ‘I just did one earlier this month. “Fashion is fantasy,” she says. movie. I’m not She had just walked through the an actress.’” “Yves Saint Laurent + Halston: Fashioning the ’70s” exhibit and was still overwhelmed with the sheer imagination of the clothes. “Every day, in five minutes, you can be transported. You have to switch very quickly from one character to the other.” It’s a skill that served her well in her first role as an actress. At 30, Valade has made a specialty out of grand entrances in her career as a Aymeline Valade in “Saint Laurent.” model, but they all pale in compari- son to the first time she appears as Catroux herself, in the end, it may Betty Catroux in Bertrand Bonello’s have been Valade’s own character “Saint Laurent.” that informed her performance She’s sitting across from the de- more than any piece of research. signer in a crowded dance club and “It’s a vibe,” Valade says. “Every- he can’t take his eyes off her. She one was telling me she was a crazy looks to be “appareled in celestial girl, but being crazy just means light,” to borrow a line from William she’s a free mind. She’s in her own Wordsworth. Luminous, blond and world and reality. She doesn’t need smoking a Gauloises, she is the very others.” Says the real Catroux: “I live embodiment of Parisian cool. When in my cloud and I am a free spirit. she starts dancing with complete picking me up in a night club is the the acclaim than Valade herself, enough and a lot.” Like Yves, I hate normal life.” abandon to a cover of Screamin’ exact truth,” she writes from Paris. who takes the very French view that By her own admission, Valade is As for what’s next, “I’m waiting for Jay Hawkins’ “I Put a Spell on You,” “[Valade] shows perfectly well the a career is not so much a job as a something of a staunch character. something to come to me,” Valade Saint Laurent looks floored. So was relationship I had with Yves, which means to an end. “Sometimes people will take my says. “I was proposed to audition the audience at the New York Film was magical.” “Everything I’ve done has always strong opinions and personality as for ‘Mission Impossible 5.’ Oh God, Festival in September. Bonello’s “Saint Laurent,” which been the best thing to do at that somebody who is pretentious,” she right? I told them as a joke, I don’t Much like when Jean Seberg first opens in the U.S. on May 8, has time. I started modeling because says. Growing up in Nice, [France,] know if it’s nice to say, ‘I think I will screamed out “New York Herald run circles around its rival, the that was my best option to travel the she used to skateboard in the be interested at ‘Mission Impossible Tribune!” in “Breathless,” the club Pierre Bergé-approved “Yves Saint world, express my creative side and Promenade des Anglais in her teens 21. At 20 is when it starts to become scene in “Saint Laurent” was one of Laurent,” since it premiered at the provide everything I needed,” she and get offers to model. “But at the interesting.’ I thought, ‘Mission those moments when everyone had Cannes Film Festival last year, says. “Now people are telling me I’m beginning I didn’t want to,” she says Impossible 5?’ That’s so random?’” the same thought: Who was that? picking up 10 César nominations an actress. I want to say, ‘I just did in her lightning speed pitter-patter, Recalling the memory, she shrugs. The real Catroux approves, (the French equivalent of the Oscar). one movie. I’m not an actress.’ What like a French accented David Mamet “I need something with essence, too: “The first encounter with Yves No one’s been more surprised by I think I am is me and that’s already character. “I had this vision of dumb with substance, with meaning.”

148 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photograph by STEVE EICHNER VINCE CAMUTO AND VINCECAMUTO.COM Report Card No Thrill From Hil, Blake Burns It Up From Royal demure to an overload of thigh and boob, here are the hits and misses among the women in the news.

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complete without Ne JDH Imagez/Splash by Clooney Navarro/WireImage; Desiree art/FilmMagic; Danes by

bump. w earth did she ever modern seductress a gratuitous amount find that? She’s a look. of cleavage risk-taker and one of and leg? the only people who DShe’s a trooper DThis belt does not could pull it off. for working the belong. Something stilettos when more streamlined DPoints for daring. DClassic black she’s about to pop. and classic with The star print adds pants temper the They elongate her a graphic buckle a bit of whimsy to fanciful fur, but a legs — clearly she’s would have bridged the look. cropped cut might had minimal water the top and bottom have been more retention. more smoothly. flattering. Toth/FilmMagic; Clinton by Michael Ste by Clinton Toth/FilmMagic; B D B- B+ w Iris Apfel Rose Byrne Blake Lively Kate Middleton Schumer photograph by Andre by Schumer photograph Middleton by Zak Hussein/Corbis; Byrne by Steve Eichner; Lively by Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images; Apfel by Steve Eichner Steve by Images; Apfel Jamie McCarthy/Getty by Eichner; Lively Steve by Hussein/Corbis; Byrne Zak by Middleton

150 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Report Card A Diesel Disaster, Henrik Hits Mark From billionaires who favor pastel colors to movie stars with midlife crises, these are the hits and misses.

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# 152 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM BY ALLY BETKER AND TAYLOR HARRIS

ILLUSTRATIONS BY They Are . . . MARIKO YAMAZAKI

a Pulque de Fresa with pulque, Sipping Aloe brandy, Combier royal, aloe vera, Come summer, beach bags won’t strawberries and lemon. And at be the only place to find aloe vera Major Food Group’s High Line — it’s also become an unexpected home run Santina, bar director ingredient in the cocktails of buzzy Thomas Waugh serves up the Manhattan restaurants. At health Aloevation, with vodka, aloe vera haven Café Clover, the namesake and violette. “It’s a very refreshing tonic is made with Hendrick’s cocktail and the aloe gives it an cucumber, basil, grape, aloe almost salinelike mouthfeel, which vera, agave and lemon. Mexican I personally really enjoy,” he says. newcomer La Contenta offers “Also, it’s good!”

It was only a matter of time before real life became synonymous with social media. The launch of live streaming apps Meerkat and Periscope in February and March, respectively, of this year means that friends and followers can now see what you’re seeing in real time. But already, the dueling companies are dividing users. Madonna took her Heading to Cuba “Ghosttown” music video premiere to Meerkat (though not without technical difficulties), while Burberry recently streamed its “London in Los Angeles” fashion show, featuring performances by Clare Maguire, It didn’t take long after U.S. travel restrictions Tom Odell and Benjamin Clementine, on Periscope. Many fashion brands to Cuba were relaxed for the fashion world Live — including Theory, Saks Fifth Avenue and Christian Louboutin to start taking advantage. Trina Turk and Streaming: — have sided with Periscope, but Meerkat boasts being first to launch, Periscope vs. as well as attracting major investors husband Jonathan Skow, Proenza Schouler’s like Jared Leto, Gary Vaynerchuk Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, as Meerkat and CAA. well as Kyle Hotchkiss Carone and a bevy of socialites have all recently visited the island. Binge Watching “I met the oldest living Proenza,” recalls Between the announcement that Showtime would be producing a Hernandez (it’s his mother’s maiden name). third season of “Twin Peaks” after a 25-year hiatus and the anticipation “I tried to tell him what I do, and he was like, of new seasons of “True Detective,” and “Orange Is the New Black,” fashion folk are burning up their ‘Is that like Zara?’” Adds Carone: “I think the Apple TVs rewatching their favorite series in anticipation of new fashion community always wants to be the content. Predicting plotlines has become a regular part of dinner first to find references in places like Cuba, conversation, thanks to teaser trailers being released and leaks in casting (oh, hey, Vince Vaughn! before the rest of the world shows up.” Where have you been?).

154 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM BY LORELEI MARFIL ILLUSTRATIONS BY City File MARIKO YAMAZAKI Undressing Baku

COUNTRY Azerbaijan 2.1m POPULATION With its new money, new architecture and luxury shops, the OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Azerbaijani LAND MASS 820 mi2 MAJOR INDUSTRIES capital of Azerbaijan is often likened to Dubai. But this city is as Petroleum, chemicals, steel, textiles, natural gas, iron ore rich with history as it is with megafashion names like Tom Ford NOTES ONizami Street, home to high-end retail in the city, is the and Harvey Nichols. Here, oil royals rule, and old and new form most expensive street in Baku. OAbout 400 active small mud a lively patchwork. Retail, the arts and sports are thriving: Baku volcanos surround the city, ejecting flames as high as will host the 2015 European Games, 2016 European Grand Prix 49 feet. and Euro 2020 UEFA European Football Championship.

156 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM City File

The Guide to Baku for the first-time explorer.

The Creative The Suit The M.A.W.*

Evde means “at home” in Azerbaijani, and Evde Situated around the corner from Fountain Amburan eatery serves classic Azerbaijani Square in a newly revamped townhouse, In an elegant rooftop cuisine including traditional “dolma,” or grape Zakura Bar & Dining, introduced Nobu-inspired setting, visitors to Kaspia leaves stuffed with minced Japanese fusion to the city and offers a meat; tomatoes, bell peppers deluxe izakaya cuisine. With a first-come, dine on steak, mixed-grilled

EAT and eggplants stuffed with first-serve policy, seating is limited at this dishes and seafood with a ground lamb, and “qutabs,” establishment. pancakes stuffed with panoramic sea view. minced meat or spinach.

Tucked into a 500-year-old building, the Inspired by Baku shipyards and power stations, Mugham Club is where visitors can check out With plush leather seating, the decor of the two-floor Elektra Events Hall local Azerbaijani ethnic and folk music. Watch dark oak interiors and a & Enerji Club & Lounge offers dramatic lighting traditional Azerbaijani dancing while sipping on and exotic furnishings. black tea, the national beverage. Mugham is a walk-in humidor, Bentley’s, national classic music genre, a mix of musical a gentlemen’s bar, provides DRINK composition and performance. a sanctuary for sampling whisky and fine cigars.

Boasting views of the Caspian Sea and the In the heart of the old city Old City, the Beaux-Arts Four Seasons Baku Absheron JW Marriott, and overlooking the 12th- luxury hotel offers upscale amenities including a a luxe hotel in the Old City, penthouse spa, a sky-lit indoor pool and an exotic century Maiden Tower, the Turkish hammam. offers beautiful views of the

STAY Sultan Inn has 11 rooms with city center and waterfront, Middle Eastern motifs and a rooftop indoor pool and offers sea and city views. 24-hour room service.

The Yarat Contemporary Art Space revamped Rising about 800 feet, check out the Flame Spend some time in the National Museum its headquarters, which will house exhibition Towers, a residential, business and hotel space, of Art or view the unique designs and patterns at galleries and a new auditorium and education or head to the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center to the National Carpet Museum. Be sure center that will highlight the latest works of the view architectural masterpieces. Learn about to check out national and international American-Iranian artist Shirin Neshat. Azerbaijan history at the National Museum contemporary art at the newest of History of Azerbaijan, located in a building museum in Azerbaijan, the Museum SEE built in 1895 as a residence of Modern Art in Baku. for an entrepreneur and philanthropist.

Emporium, a three-level avant-garde Japanese- The 344,445-square-foot Port Baku Mall designed store, stocks its shelves with upscale houses luxury brands and designers including Activities for this crowd and contemporary brands including Acne, Balenciaga, Chloé, Emilio Pucci, Alexander abound, from relaxing at Balenciaga and Balmain. The store offers a McQueen and Jimmy Choo. Upscale restaurants lounge, a café-bar and the Emporium art space include the Armani Café, Ladurée and Dalloyau. a local hammam to taking features a series of exhibitions, talks and events. a boat out near the SHOP Boulevard to see the city views at sunset.

In the cool afternoon, enjoy Located in central Baku, Fountain Square the scenery and take a walk The city will host the first is a prime retail destination, with upscale shops, or bike along the Baku European Games, where restaurants and hotels. Boulevard, which stretches along the Castpian Sea athletes will compete in shoreline. Check out the sports from boxing and observatory Ferris wheel EVENTS known as The Baku Eye. cycling to gymnastics and volleyball.

spans seven floors. It carries more part of General Construction, an was considered to have the world’s Nestled in Baku’s central Nasimi Retail and than 500 labels of men’s, women’s, Azerbaijan-based investment group second-fastest-growing economy, District, at the crossing of Tbilisi Av- Business children’s and bridalwear, along that has interests in areas including and Euromonitor data that found enue and Izmir Street, Globus Plaza with a perfumery and cosmetics construction, retail, energy, tourism, that in the last five years, the num- offers a broad array of men’s and Scene department. The store also houses hospitality and production. ber of affluent people in Azerbaijan women’s apparel, shoes, cosmetics, a café, restaurant, lounge and club, Stacey Cartwright, group chief has more than quadrupled. The new perfumes , jewelry and accessories and will offer styling and personal executive officer of Harvey Nichols, store adds to Harvey Nichols’ ex- from 600 international brands and The latest retail development shopping services. The new space described the Azerbaijan market as isting seven U.K. stores — including designers, among them Pierre Bal- in Baku includes British retailer was designed by the London firm “fast becoming one of the top luxury the London flagship — along with main, Prabal Gurung, Isabel Marant, Harvey Nichols. The retailer in Four IV and was opened in partner- retail destinations in the world.” international stores in such locales Jil Sander, Lanvin, Marc Jacobs, March opened a 110,000-square- ship with Perfomans Azerbaijan, The store cited research by as Dublin; Riyadh, Saudi Arabia; Is- Mary Katrantzou and Mulberry. The foot store within the Globus Plaza Harvey Nichols’ exclusive licensee The Economist, which found that tanbul and Ankara in Turkey, Kuwait, center also offers restaurants, bars mall in the city’s Nasimi district, and for the country. Perfomans is between 2000 and 2010, Azerbaijan Dubai and Hong Kong. and cafés.

*(Models, Actresses, Whatever)

158 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM OPRAH WINFREY We try to speak to the heart of the woman who we know is interested in growing into herself. We know that she cares about a lot of different things.” MEDIA By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD PEOPLE

IT’S THE WORD ON THE STREET!

96% shopped it. 3 in 4 shared it. And 9 in 10 can’t wait to read the next issue. The fashion and beauty “Freemium” that New York’s millennial women loved is now monthly!

100,000 COPIES put directly into the hands of stylish 25- to 35-year-old women throughout NYC the first week of every month. arienko/Trunk Archive arienko/Trunk w FOR MONTHLY CLOSINGS & MORE, contact James D’Adamo at 212.649.4131 or [email protected]. Photo by Kurt Is Kurt by Photo

160 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Source: TrendingNY Editorial Tracking Study, October 2014 Published by Hearst Communications, Inc. 300 West 57th St., New York, NY 10019 MEDIA PEOPLE

show became the number-one daytime talk show feet on a nearby coffee table and chatted about her in America, and Winfrey began evolving the pro- media empire, her cultural legacy and whether she gramming to include weightier topics, such as geo- misses appearing regularly on television. politics, gay rights, race issues, substance abuse and cancer. She balanced those subjects with How has O changed since it launched 15 years celebrity interviews and audience gift giveaways. ago in light of the changing media landscape? Her best-known giveaway show ignited a kind I think the change has really been with — well, of pandemonium when she gave every audience we’re affected by ad sales like everybody else — I member a car. Asked how she came up with the remember when we started the magazine, we On now-famous phrase: “You get a car, and you get a were charging, literally — we gave more value per car,” Winfrey told WWD: “I wanted to shock them page because everybody underestimated. I was a bright, temperate afternoon, Oprah Winfrey — by repeating, ‘you get a car.’” told when we started this magazine that it would still in full hair and make up from a daylong shoot It worked. Winfrey’s show remained on the air be five years before we’d be in the black. Five for O, The Oprah Magazine, sat comfortably on until 2011. During her time as host, Winfrey had years, so don’t be discouraged. Hang in there. It’s one of the two smooth, black leather sofas in her other television, film and theatrical projects brew- going to be all right, but it’s going to take you five makeshift dressing room at Chelsea Piers on the ing. Her focus shifted toward the development of years. The first month, we oversold by, I think west side of Manhattan. TV channel OWN, which is a joint venture between 500,000 copies or something. We were off to the Dressed casually in a vibrant orange sweat- her company Harpo Productions and Discovery races. That was pretty exciting. shirt with white piping and a pair of cuffed, dark Communications. OWN experienced some bumps We’ve seen the ad sales landscape, the financial jeans, Winfrey, 61, joked about her years in the in the beginning with lackluster ratings and an landscape, change for everybody actually, in the limelight, noting that she’s appeared on the cover executive-management shake-up. But the channel business. of O for 15 years now, and was ready to retreat has since rebounded and is now cash-flow positive, In order for magazines to grow, many from the limelight. The media mogul began her due in part to a slate of Tyler Perry shows bringing brands are trying to expand their readership career more than 40 years ago, starting out as an in strong ratings. Winfrey, who is estimated to be by targeting Millennials. Are you looking to anchor in Nashville. She then moved to Baltimore worth about $3 billion, is also focusing more on bring those readers in as well? in 1976, where she coanchored the evening news, film production with recent projects including I think we try to speak to the heart of the woman and would meet her best friend Gayle King, who “Lee Daniels’ The Butler” and “Selma.” Last who we know is interested in growing into herself. worked on the newscast as a production assistant fall, she hit the road for her “The Life You Want” Obviously, I think that the idea of reaching young and writer. Two years later, Winfrey entered the cross-country tour, a quasi-evangelical, self-help, girls that are in college is something that we are burgeoning talk-show market as a cohost with feel-good conference of sorts. strongly open to because who better wants to Richard Sher on “People Are Talking.” In 1983, Back in New York, an affable Winfrey — with know how to live a more purposeful life than Winfrey would move to Chicago and host a 30-min- e-mail-checking bestie King in tow — kicked up her people who are starting out? But what we really ute morning talk show called “AM Chicago.” Her try to concentrate on is the heart of our reader. ratings skyrocketed and she signed a syndication We know who she is. We know where she lives. deal with King World. The show was renamed the We know that she’s into her mid- to late-40s. We “Oprah Winfrey Show,” and it was expanded to a know that she cares about a lot of different things, full hour and broadcasted nationally in 1986. The and is juggling a lot of different things, and so what we try to do is to speak to, and hit that nerve, on a regular basis. I think we do speak to all ages, but the emphasis is, unlike everybody else who is chasing the Millennials, we are not chasing the Millennials. Where do you see the magazine going in the future? I do not see myself on the cover for the next 15 years. When will that end and how? Well, we actually seriously considered it for now, and made the decision not to do it now. I can guarantee… You don’t want to be pushing a walker on the cover? Rolling myself out? [Lauging] I’m amazed that JULY we don’t run out of ideas. I’m amazed at the num- ber of poses that I’ve been able to do. I’m amazed that there’s still a way to clap my hands, smile or raise a thumb. I don’t have another clap in me, or another smile or another way to turn my head to the left. There’s not enough wind machines. How do you see your own impact on media 8–10 over the years? How do you view what you’ve accomplished? That is such a crazy question, Alex. Let me tell you why that’s a crazy question. It’s a crazy ques- tion because I don’t know what kind of egomaniac is sitting at home thinking about the impact they have had on the culture. It’s not something I actu- ally think about until it comes up. I was in a con- versation a couple of days ago and someone said: “You know, we were talking about the whole issue OLeft: Oprah Winfrey and Gayle of transgender and how it has become so accepted King at the first anniversary party now, and somebody said, ‘You know the Oprah for O, The Oprah Magazine on April show, I think has had a big impact.’” I said, I don’t STATION- 17, 2001 at Cipriani in New York; top: think so. We did several transgender [shows], but the cover of the first issue of the we didn’t do as much for transgender as I did for, magazine; above: the latest cover of www.premiumexhibitions.com the magazine. say, abused kids or battered women. And they said, “But no, you started the conversation. You started the conversation and the conversation has Ltd./WireImage Galella, Ron by Photograph BERLIN 162 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM MEDIA PEOPLE

1 Rank 2 3 4 5 VOGUE VANITY FAIR COSMOPOLITAN HARPER’S BAZAAR ELLE Cover Model: Serena Williams Cover Model: Robin Wright Cover Model: Hilary Duff Cover Model: Julianne Moore Cover Model: Shailene Woodley Likes: 49,322 Likes: 12,658 Likes: 10,672 Likes: 9,046 Likes: 7,479 *Rankings are as of April 21. Magazine Watch: Instant Likes OInstagram has increasingly become a sounding board for magazines to see what works and what doesn’t when it comes to covers. WWD took a look at the top five April edition covers by “likes” on Instagram in the women’s fashion and general interest magazine category. By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

led us to here.” would like to work on in the future for the I’m always interested in people being able to So yeah, I remember when we were doing com- network? share stories that allow us to see the landscape of ing-out days for gay kids who couldn’t tell their I think that this past fall, all of the platforms human foibles, challenges, and ultimately triumph. families, but they could come on the Oprah show sort of came together with the tour that I did. Do you miss interviewing people? and tell me. So, the impact, to give the long answer The magazine was involved, OWN was involved, No. to your question, the impact of the magazine, the obviously, I was, and the truth is, all of them cen- You don’t miss this? impact of the show, the impact that I have had ter around the central idea of connecting to the There’s not another darn thing I can say. I inter- on media is what Maya Angelou says will be my viewer, connecting to the reader in such a way viewed — no — had lunch with Harper Lee several legacy. I remember saying to her one day, “I think that people feel valued, and people feel that their years ago, trying to convince Harper Lee to do my legacy is going to be building the girl’s school voices, whether on the pages or on the channel, “To Kill a Mockingbird” for the book club. She in South Africa.” And she said: [imitating the are being represented. wouldn’t do it. She said, “Honey, I said everything booming, baritone quality of Angelou’s voice] “My Documentaries are so in right now. Would I wanted to say.” dear, your legacy is every life that you’ve touched. you consider getting involved in that area in But now look at her. It’s everybody who has been moved by anything a more meaningful way? Now look at her! But, interviewing people, I that you say, anything that is written, anything that Documentaries? No, not as much, because I tried don’t miss that at all. I do miss kibitzing with the has come out of these pages. That’s the legacy.” audience because after every show I would spend That’s a long way around it. I don’t think about it. half an hour to 40 minutes talking to people. So If you were starting your career today, that — I do miss the people in the audience and how would you navigate it? Would you have “I’m always interested the fun: “I came with my mother! And this is my a YouTube channel or a blog? mother!” I miss that. I miss: “My cousin and I I’d be so confused. You know why? [In Angelou in people being able came all the way from….” I miss that. I don’t miss voice] “Back in the day when I started — it’s like I this — who is left to interview? walked five miles to school in the snow barefooted” to share stories that That’s true. You have interviewed everyone. — there were three channels. I don’t know what I allow us to see the The problem is, and even now, because I started would do. I’m really glad to be evolving at this time doing this with “Next Chapter,” there’s nobody — and not having to be in a position to figure it out, landscape of human try to think of somebody — who would be willing but we are constantly — not figuring out how to to do an interview on a regular basis that you can’t begin because we’ve got a really solid foundation — foibles, challenges, and go and Google and find out what has happened to but we’re constantly, as a magazine, trying to grow ultimately triumph.” them in the past week. There’s nobody. ourselves to the next level, expanding our digital [Sitting nearby, Gayle King adds: “Not even past platform, and connecting with readers there, and week — (in the last) 10 minutes.”] trying to explore our abilities to bring our magazine In the last 10 minutes. By the time you get the to life. It’s a growth process, but I’m glad we’re not interview on and you get anybody to sit down just starting out. God bless you, Alex. documentaries [in the early Aughts]. It wasn’t the and do an interview, everything about it — [snaps Please talk about your affection for print time for me. I was going to try to do the same thing, fingers] — it’s so instant. It’s over. Except for and the volatile environment that is pressur- I did make a valiant attempt but it did not work — this. [Smiles.] There are only a few [interviews]. ing its existence. Is it still as valued in today’s to do the same thing with documentaries that we I wanted Bruce Jenner. Diane [Sawyer] got it. landscape? had done with the book club [in 2011]. The zeitgeist That’s great but there are few. There are only a That’s a blasphemous question! wasn’t ready. It just wasn’t ready. We tried and few [interviews], but you’re not going to be able How does the content of your magazine tried — 18 to 49 [makes a negative buzzer noise]. to think about it. stand out from all the women’s magazines? But now, that is something I would absolutely [King adds: “Except for this.”] It’s mind food. reconsider. But what we’re really trying to focus Except for this. Can you talk about how OWN relates to more on the network now is scripted television. Except for this. Well, now that I got this, my the magazine and what sorts of projects you What subjects attract you the most? career is over. Damn.

164 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM FEATURES

168 The WWD Six 206 Viewfinder 210 The Edge of Innocence WWD studies ascendant fash- Scenes from Myanmar’s Thing- Designers draw on romantic ion talent and offers a list of yan water festival, when people notions of Victoriana. designers behind six brands we engage in purification and 220 Village Noir think have what it takes to be good-luck rituals — and teens The overcoat is the ultimate next-generation megapowers. use the time to party and dress statement for going undercover like pop stars. on chilly New York nights.

Illustration by MATT CHASE 168 APRIL 29, 2015

WWD.COM Photography by NIGELPARRY Jack McCollough andLazaro Hernandez Mary-Kate OlsenandAshley Christopher Kane Proenza Schouler Alexander Wang J.W. Anderson Chitose Abe The QuietOnes The Energizer The Stargazer The Originals The Row The Thinker The Enigma The Six

Illustration: Artist Name

Illustration: Artist Name having acoolheadfor business. is notenough toguaranteesuccess.Nor is that mostwon’t makeit.Brilliant talent every indicates arriviste darling, history global consumerbaseeager tocelebrate andafascinated,rabid support industry more sothannow. Yet even with powerful the new, thefresh, theunexpected,never Fashion haslongbeenobsessedwith we thinkhave what ittakesto benext-generation megapowers. upwithourlistoftalent andcame designers behindsixbrands leaders aroundtheworld, WWDstudiedtheascendantfashion good toessential fashion. With unvarnished inputfromindustry today. Andthe tipping pointfrom thatjenesaisquoimarks constant, sometimesunexpectedchange inallaspectsof business take vision, perseverance toadaptthefast, andtheability thrive andbuildthepowerhouse brandsof tomorrow?It will

Who willsurvive, The

Six

Alexander Wang The Energizer

t age 31, he has built an ultracool brand synonymous with street grit, irreverence, the spirit of youth and spontaneity. He backs up his fun- Aloving image with a serious and ambitious business operation that has intrigued titans of luxury, such as François-Henri Pinault, and fast- fashion retailers — H&M — alike.

By JESSICA IREDALE Photo credit: Artist Name Artist credit: Photo

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM APRIL 29, 2015 171

The Energizer Alexander Wang | In the 10 years since the 31-year-old launched his label, Wang has grown it from six unisex cashmere intarsia sweat- ers to a $100 million bonafide brand with 700 distribution channels and 23 freestanding stores worldwide. Addition- ally, in 2012 he was appointed creative director of no less hallowed a house than Balenciaga, which he’s steered to double-digit growth. There are a lot of X factors in Wang’s success, instinct being one of them. By the company line, his trajectory has been an “organic” process, though nothing has been accidental. His business decisions are deeply considered. He is aware. Aware of the expectations of designers and brands today, aware of his relation- ships in fashion’s insular realm and aware of the consumer world outside of it. On a rainy Monday at the TriBeCa Grand Hotel, the dewy Palm Springs tan Wang picked up at Coachella and his messy ponytail belie the improbably shrewd businessman side of his persona. The designers on this list would not “When I started, fashion was much more elite and more exclusive,” he says. “Now, from the smallest brand to the biggest be here if it weren’t for their outsize brand it’s all about, in my opinion, being inclusive. It’s very rare now to be able to be a designer and survive and say, ‘I only want to design this kind of product ambition. That said, none has as and I’m just going to stay like this.’” He is talking about compromise to some extent, adapting his vision to the needs much commercial success to show of a market that is relentless in pace. “It’s always, ‘Okay, what do I have to do next?’” In the beginning the next steps were only about doing what was necessary to for his drive as Alexander Wang. stay in business until the following sea- son. In 2005, when Wang was in stores with his sweaters, he wanted his own section and say over adjacencies, even though he had yet to produce the full collection that gives credence to such an audacious demand from a start-up. He was a quick study — by 2007 he’d launched his first full women’s line. Working off his own success has always fueled Wang’s pro- cess. He has immense respect for Azzedine Alaïa, who oper- ates purely on his own, very narrow creative terms. Would the Alaïa method interest Wang? “I don’t know because I feel like when I started I automatically had to think about the other components [of business] and it’s inspired me to work in such a different way,” he says. “It triggers me now.” From the outset of the design process, Wang projects how the collection will look in-store. He also asks: Who’s going to buy it and why would they want to buy it from his label specifically? Point of view dictates everything. “Every single time we launch a product or do something via social or Ins- tagram, I always think, ‘What’s our positioning?’ In fashion, unless you have something individual to say, there’s no point. You’re just going to follow someone else,” he says. To his credit, Wang has had a handle on his aesthetic since his early days, which were centered on the model-off-duty ►

172 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 174 APRIL 29, 2015 W back inheavy rotation amongthemasses. apparel equivalent ofanAdidas Smith,whichcurrently Stan is Based onobsessive sneakerheads, thespringlinefeatured the stores, hasincludedneckpillows, yoga matsandlighters. own originally intendedasafun,valueaddforhis collection, clothesandthroughin bothhis otherchannels.TheObjects are innovation his andirony, which hegleefully commodifies itintoherwardrobe. easily integrate customer can Thenthere says, fluidbutthatthe is notinthesensethateverything the latter’s street grithasbecomeever more polished. Tbyto his Alexander Wang as maincollection linethanhis look oflooseT-shirts andskinny jeansthat now belongsmore IT — those things can beaidedbyIT —thosethingscan having apartner.” ofthenextpart phaseforus,andsupply chainandresources, he says. “Capitaldefinitely toopen retail is avery important but he’s metwithpeople.“There’s definitely anopenness,” nership. At notactively themomentheis lookingforabacker, bigplanswillrequirehis outsideinvestment part- orfinancial independentandfamily-runbusiness is —fornow. Eventually “That’s that’s thepart soexciting tome.” necessarily wantstofill.“Iwantcreate my own,” hesays. career modeltosomeextent, theydonotsetthemoldWang everyone,” headds. sellthedreamcompany to behemoth.“They tolifestyle he says. Thenthere’s Apple, which hasmorphedfrom tech who buySupreme are diehard. outfordays,” Theycamp Supreme, which cultivates customerloyalty. people “The Wang betterthanhecan,” thatvision depicts says. “Idon’t style. thinkanyonecome toepitomizeAmerican else buyaPolocan shirtatCostco,” henotes.Lauren hasalso notpigeonholedbrand is by price.“He doesluxury, butyou Black is Wang’sBlack is favorite color. aesthetichasease,he His Being independenthasaffordedBeing himfreedom tomount So farWang own onhis terms.The vision his hascrafted If theaforementioned brandsrepresent anaspirational Conversely, Wang envies thebusinessmodelatskate brand

WWD.COM

idol and is especiallyimpressed idol andis thathis Ralph Lauren. Wang considersLauren an comeup:MichaelKorsmegabrands and the designerswho have setthebaras hen conversation turnstofuture growth, connect to.” I feel like I things certain are obviously Thereetc. craftsmanship, It represents exclusivity. represents status. It represents to me? It representluxury “What does 2011 collection party. and Wang enjoyshisspring at the2010CFDA Awards; Award for Accessory Design he accepts theSwarovski spring 2007 presentation; prepares amodel for his From left: Alexander Wang deliver of platformthatI’mexcited itonadifferent type by.” ■ of what itmeanstobea high-level designerluxury brandand I don’t elements extract with.Ithink Ican certain associate but atthesametimeideaofpretension assomethingthat etc. There are obviously thingsIfeel like to, certain Iconnect Itrepresentsstatus. exclusivity. Itrepresents craftsmanship, L word: doesluxury represent “What tome? Itrepresents and where hewantstopush it. of French own thedirectionofhis fashionbrand hasimpacted the rhythm andmomentum.Andsurely working attheapex housesforever,self designingfortwo currently heis enjoying aesthetic branchout. the fashion press, inparticular, haven’t taken kindly tohis aggravated alotofpeople,”says Wang, notingthat somein have evolved toward eachothertosomedegree. “It’s also stores, indepartment butthecollections with Balenciaga as adesigner.” how peopleviewed my brandbutmaybe how theyviewme inwho Iampersonally,”of equity hesays. “Notnecessarily ions ofhim—forbetterandworse. “It’s definitely builtalot creativity. ofhis part It’s alsochanged many people’s opin- would take onthechallenge anddesignsomethingdifferent.” oh IwantedtojoinKering,” hesays. “Iwantedtoseehow I sharerecalls, andhehadhis ofnaysayers. “Itwasn’t like, backgroundinitially,contemporary wasabighandicap Wang ing thatwe can’t sell?Whatare we sellingthattheyaren’t?” compared tootherbrands,”Wang says. are “What theysell- designers. “Sometimesyou dowanttoknow how we’re doing role his inagroupis thatumbrellas multiple brandswithstar likewise thesalesandmerchandising teams.Alsopertinent lished resources. takeideasandrun, his Theatelierscan of TheNewSchool’s ParsonsSchoolofDesign. himself for, having own beenhis bosssincehedropped out don’t make Itwasanadjustment he’d thefinalcall.” prepared an employee,” Wang says. “I’mthere todoajob, I tofacilitate. luxury conglomeratewasashift forhim.“Number one, I’m obviouspull ofinfluenceis across theboard. Working fora the Kering-owned label,theynow orbitaround himandthe brandswere Ifthetwo ciaga. worlds when apart Wang joined years,”us inthelasttwo hesays. domestic. “Europe hasbeenthebiggestgrowth market for ny’s market share shifted to60percent European, 40percent York, andHong Paris Kong withmore than200employees. resources three ofhis officesinNew andaligningtheefforts order lesssexy: ofbusinessis infrastructure,retail, human fall —thoughthere’s nothingconcrete rightnow. Thenext performancewear-drivenof his collaborationwithH&Mlast fragrance andpossibly ath-leisure inlightofthewildsuccess strategy. There are boxes theusual tocheck—sunglasses, ‘It’s notagood time,’”recallsthedesigner. him againstexpanding intodenim.“All thestores kept saying, extrais sweet given store thatevery topdepartment advised was, Wang says, “Well, Thevalidation thedenimsoldout.” to herknees.Asked what thefeedbackfrom thecampaign turbating while wearing apairofWang’s jeanspulleddown Steven modelAnnaEwers Klein,thephotosdepicted mas- c ad provocative more its largest worldwide, onLondon’s Albemarle Street. summer thecompany flagship, willopena6,500-square-foot felt strongly enoughthatthemeaningoverrode This therisk. —he inSanFrancisco as aChinese-American —hewasraised because there wasacustomerbasethere, butalsobecause likethan anexpected Angeles. locale Los Wang choseChina flagship withafreestanding store in2012rather inBeijing tofollow Mango, NewYork his character decision orhis “Saturday ashis Kattan withChris T campaign NightLive” umpteen levels ofbureaucratic approval: spring2014 his successful projectsthatmightnothave passedthrough In contemplating his future,In contemplatinghis Wang thinksalotaboutthe Now there’s nogoing Even back. ifWang doesn’t seehim- That’s nottosay Alexander Wang now shares adjacencies The French househasallowed Wang intoanother totap Assuming thedesignhelmasayoung witha American hasalsoplacedhimamidrichandwell-estab- Balenciaga Then there’s otherfull-timejobatBalen- thematterofhis When Wang officelastyear, openedtheParis thecompa- If Wang oninvestors nottaking is yet, hehasagrowth Wang alsorecently launched adenimlinewithoneofthe ampaigns inrecent memory: Shotby

Model photograph by Pavel Antonov; CFDA Awards and party by Steve Eichner HAIR BY MAKEUP BY MODEL: CODIEYOUNG AT VIVA LONDON SVEN BAYERBAC ANGELA DAVISANGELA DEACON AT H AT AT F ACTORY F ACTORY ACTORY The

Six

Chitose Abe The Enigma

he launched her label, Sacai, in Tokyo in 1999 but didn’t hold her first runway show until 2011. She regularly crossbreeds multiple Sgarments into couture shapes. And she counts both Birkenstock and Nike among her recent collaborators. The designer behind one of ready- to-wear’s most-talked-about labels pretty much defines “against the grain.”

By KELLY WETHERILLE Photo credit: Artist Name Artist credit: Photo

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Chitose Abe | The Enigma “Ever since I started the brand, I have thought that I wanted to have a special kind of existence,” she says of her label Sacai, which is a variation on her maiden name, Sakai. “So I didn’t open my own shop [for a long time], and for example, it took a really long time for me to start doing runway shows. The reason for this is that I didn’t want to do things in a reg- ular way, or in a way that everyone else was doing things. I was always thinking of a way I could do things that would go against people’s stereotypes or precon- ceived notions.” In Abe’s case, the slow-and-steady approach has paid off. Seventeen years after launching Sacai, she has gained a cult following around the world for her deconstructed yet sur- prisingly wearable clothes, created by combining contrasting textures and pro- portions, and splicing together elements of different garments to create something entirely new. Among her high-profile admirers are Karl Lagerfeld, Gwyneth Paltrow and Pharrell Williams. “People who knew [Sacai] before have always known it, but now I think it’s got- ten to a point where a lot more people know it,” Abe notes. In the modern-day parable of fashion’s Possible reasons for this, she says, include the opening of her first flagship store in Tokyo in 2011 and her staging race to fame and fortune, Tokyo-based of fashion shows during Paris Fashion Week, which she’s been doing since fall 2011. “But those many years I spent doing designer Chitose Abe seems to see herself other things are still very important to me,” she says. “I didn’t open a store and start doing runway shows because everyone else was doing those things; I as more of the tortoise than the hare. did them because I felt inside myself that it was a good way for me to get more peo- ple to know about my brand. Everyone says I was slow to do it, but I think it was right for me.” Until recently Abe had a team of only about 10 people work- ing with her. Even now she runs a very lean operation with roughly 20 staffers in her office and atelier. Yet a continuing growth spurt — according to Abe, sales have been increasing 20 to 30 percent annually, although she declined to specify yearly revenue — has her looking to recruit about 10 additional employees and actively searching for more factories, knitters and mills in Japan to meet product demand. At the moment, Abe is also Sacai’s only designer, churning out around 500 pieces per year across her main women’s collection, her men’s line, the more casual and lower-priced Sacai Luck brand, and collaboration projects with Nike and Birkenstock. Understandably, this is a lot for one person to handle, so she is looking to add a design team as a part of her recruitment push. Still, Abe is wary of growing too big too fast. “It’s a little scary,” she says of her recent success. “I’m a very cautious person, so I always worry that the sales will drop as much as they’ve grown. So I think it’s better for them to grow little by little. I still don’t know what a reasonable ►

178 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 180 APRIL 29, 2015 U office there lastOctober. nent retail presence inNewYork, thebrandlaunched an year.later this Andasthefirststeptoward having aperma- Corp.operator Shinsegae toopenastore inSeoul,perhaps month. store attheendofthis willopeninBeijing very successfulinthemarket,” according toMok.Another in Hong Kong’s newfashion hub, Street. “Ithasbeen OnLan Joyce women’s andAbepartnered toopenaSacai flagship women’s wear signifiedby herpleatedpanels.InJanuary, as Abeevolved from hercraft toafullrange knitwear of hasplayedpast decade akey role thelabel inestablishing eral merchandising manager of seasonoverbrand identity season,”says MichaelMok,gen- tomorrow andithasdemonstratedstrong andconsistent and SaksFifthAvenue. Market, Joyce, Selfridges,Marché, Bon Barneys Le NewYork at175 carried is stores worldwide, includingDover Street shops, notjustwhat thebuyers order.” paying very closeattentiontothesell-through rateinthe intermsofthemarket, forSacai butI’malwaysamount is make, Abe begins each collection with fabric selection and withfabricselection make, eachcollection Abebegins balance inmind.” new anddifferent. Ialways designmy withthat collections somethingthatlookslike Thebetrayalis Sacai. something is andbetrayal. Thestability stability create abalancebetween foundation [formy designs]for17 years,” Abesays. to “Itry ing thelookeachseason,Ihave usedthesamethingsas Sacai is also in talks withSouthKorean alsointalks is Sacai store department of hasthepotentialtobeoneofmegabrands “Sacai For thebuyers are certainly theirpart, ordering. Sacai Even before she knows what kindofclothesshegoing is to toremain“Rather thantrying originalby completely chang-

WWD.COM process, this is oneofhergreatestprocess, is challenges. this She says thatevery time shethedesign begins thatlookfreshcreating collections eachseason. easily signature recognizable aesthetic,while still ntil now, Abe hasmanaged toremain truetoher Joyce Group, which over the York inOctober2013. New collection; Abe atBarneys showing herspring 2013Sacai designer ontherunwayafter in LondonMarch; the xSacailaunch the NikeLab From left: Chitose Abe at balance inmind.” with that my collections I always design and different. something new The betrayal is looks like Sacai. something that The stability is and betrayal. between stability a balance tocreate“I try colors andseemingly linearyet structuredsilhouettes.” from Chitose’s creative combinationofinteresting fabrics, CrawfordLane portfolio,” she says, “and itssuccessstems “Sacai’s outfrom aestheticstands any otherbrandwithinthe Wong, divisional merchandise manager forwomen’s wear. ford across Hong portfolio Kong andChina,according toKelly Craw-among thetop-five performingbrandswithintheLane iteversits andhascarried since.AndSacai first collection Andelman, creative boughtthe inParis, directorofColette she supportingme.” is mythat she carries brandatDover Street Market asignthat is she doesn’t really express thatinwords. ButIthinkthefact feel like maybe paying she is closeattentiontowhat Ido, but and Idon’t thinkshe doeseither,” Abesays ofKawakubo. “I her formerapprentice. has remained mum abouttherelatively newfoundsuccessof several timesayear forbusiness.Still,Abesays Kawakubo Tokyo, andNewYork, London seeeachother sothetwo forKawakubo’scollection Dover Street Market stores in found elsewhere. Since2006Abehasdesignedacapsule of makingthingsthatare completely unique andcan’t be essential thingshe learnedfrom Kawakubo theimportance is Kawakubo andJunya Watanabe desGarçons. atComme One —Ijustdowhateasy tounderstand Ilike. That’s it.” wanted Birkenstocks thatshe would wear herself. “I’mvery ration withBirkenstock, aboutbecause she notes,came things thatIcan’t make she says. withSacai,” Her collabo- justifit’sor notis somethingIwantornot—forexample, an oversize Nike sweatshirt from herlatest collection.) interview, she wore agray-and-black ensemblethatincluded tolookatwhatis she herselfwears eachday. (Duringthis might beinherfuture, thedesignersays thebestway toguess a newofferinginthefall.Asked what othercollaborations nership willcontinue, she says there willatthevery leastbe our time.” fashion world oneofthegreatest innovators toattract of energy anduniqueness hasgone beyond theborders ofthe ration withNike,” hesays, “gives thatChitose’s anindication — fromtothefinishingtouches. fabricselection of aboutayear todesignbecause herself she dideverything launched collaborationwithNike, which she says tookatotal sheof thingsIwant,” notes. the textile manufacturers abouthow wemake can thekinds very softtothetouch. actually butis as wantingsomethingthatlooksstifffrom adistance withveryconcepts,such “abstract” development. Shestarts B me andrealized thatthere are otherways ofdoingthings.”■ turning 50andIwould bevery honored ifpeoplelooked at great orthree recognition injusttwo years,year butthis I’m quite alongtime.I’msuregainsome alot ofdesignerscan sheit,” says. “Ihave for17 beendoingthis years, which is or notdoingsomethingjustbecause everyone doing elseis in amore indirectway, like notopeningastore rightaway wishes peoplewould learnfrom herinstead. that are similartowhat she hasdonefor17 years —butshe isn’t bothered oroffendedtoseeotherdesignersdoingthings appeared toemploy someofhertechniques. Abesays she in March, when brandssuchasYasutoshi EzumiandFacetasm prevalent thanever onTokyo’s runways duringfashion week happened even alot, inthe supermarket. me.” Itsurprises when she Ilookclosely not,” says. they’re “Recently thathas Other retailers have alsobeenvery supportive. Sarah “I don’t say anythingaboutthingsthatotherpeoplemake, Before launching in1999, Sacai Abeworked underRei forhow ifIwanttodoacollaboration basis Idecide “The While Abenotesshe doesn’t know how longtheNike part- Mok ofJoyce Group lauds themove. recent collabo- “The Abe usedtheexact sameapproach withherrecently with basedonintuition,andthentalk “I choose[fabrics] With contributions byAmandaKaiser me,Iwould“If peoplewanttoimitate prefer theydoit emulatingThis ofAbe’s signature aestheticseemedmore see clothesthatIthinkare my own, butthen flattery, thenAbeshould loved. befeelingpretty every move. thehighestformof is Ifimitation ut itisn’t just retailers who are following Sacai’s “Often when I’mwalkingaround town, I’ll

NikeLab photograph by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images for Nike; Runway by Giovanni Giannoni; Barneys by Jenna Greene HAIR BY MAKEUP BY MODEL:

RYOJI IMAIZUMI AT SIGNOMANAGEMENT H ANNA N. AT WIZARDMODELS YU K I AT M0MANAGEMENT WWD.COM

MONTH 00, 2015

00 The

Six

The Row The Quiet Ones

he quiet success of The Row has proved one of the more improbable and celebrated developments in the last 10 years of American Tfashion. Not that anyone should have been surprised that the multimillionaire-teen-titans- turned-aesthetes could take on the industry.

By JESSICA IREDALE Illustration: Artist Name Artist Illustration:

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 The Row | The Quiet Ones Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen have surprised, impressed and in many ways trailblazed their way into the fashion industry, where their reputations are not as novelty former child stars but legitimate aesthetes and serious design- ers with a formidable business. At this point it feels almost impolite to mention their prior sitcom lives (although due to the timing of this interview, the day after their former costar John Stamos announced the Netflix spinoff of “Full House,” one feels obliged). The Olsens, now 28, were early to the concept of rarefied basics. Back in 2005 when they moved to New York from Los Angeles to attend New York University, they wanted T-shirts made to a T: the per- fect fit, the perfect fabric. Now you can’t walk through a department store without dodging racks of “perfect” upscale this and that. Originally, the product was intended as There has been nothing traditional a charity project. “It was something we just wanted for ourselves,” says Ashley, sitting beside her sister behind a gigantic about the stealthy ascent of The Row, shared desk in their office at The Row’s TriBeCa studio, which they have occu- pied since June 2011. “It wasn’t something that I thought would ever be a business.” the collection of supremely crafted, But a business it is. The Row — its name derived from the holy grail of tailoring Savile Row — is sold through 164 points high-end classics for mature women of distribution in 37 countries with industry insiders estimating $50 million in annual sales. that was launched 10 years ago by two Last May, The Row opened its first store on Melrose Place in Los Angeles in the 3,800-square-foot former Sally Hershberger and John Frieda space, incredibly famous teenage twins. where the twins used to get their hair done. The brand’s second flagship will open in New York early next year, a town house at 17 East 71st Street on the Upper East Side. The sisters have a successful handbag collection and shoes look likely in the short-term after a prolonged, perfectionist research and production phase. “It’s been a three-year conversation,” says Mary-Kate of figuring out shoes. The company has around 60 employees, seven on the design team, including Mary-Kate and Ashley. A Paris office opened in 2011 and the European market is being nurtured slowly, while the U.S. makes up the bulk of distribution for the label. The original perfect T-shirts, blazers, black leather pants and other wardrobe staples have evolved into a full-yet- focused collection of exquisitely tasteful grown-up clothes that mix the classic and minimal with elements of subdued bohemianism. It’s quiet luxury at its finest, rendered through a slow-wrought artisanal approach. Everything The Row offers, aside from a few sweaters, is produced domestically, a practice that is reflected in the collection’s price tags, which range from around $300 for a T-shirt to nearly $5,000 for a classic coat. “It was approached as a passion project and it was baby ►

184 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 steps and wasn’t coming from any other place but creativity Naturally, there were items that didn’t sell as well as and there was such a purity and innocence,” Ashley says. “I expected or things that took a while to catch on, such as look back and I’m like, ‘Where did I get the gumption to go wide-leg pants when skinny fits were still all the rage, heftier out and do that and meet with these people?’” fabrics when the regional climate called for lightweight, but Asked if their high-profile celebrity background made it The Row has never had a collection that bombed. No tacky harder to be taken seriously, she replies, “I think there’s a moments, no egregious stylistic missteps. very obvious answer to that question. It never stopped us The trends are reserved for Elizabeth and James, the Ols- from working hard. It never got in the way of our end goal, ens’ cool yet polished contemporary line named for their two which was to make clothes for women.” siblings. The Row is purely upper echelon. Mary-Kate and Ashley won their first CFDA Award for Womenswear Designer here was a learning curve. Despite having a of the Year in 2012, took home the Accessories Designer of the billion-dollar company, Dualstar Entertainment Year Award last year, and are nominated in both categories Group, with a thriving licensed apparel business again this year. for the mass market at the inception of The On the path to proving their mettle, the sisters didn’t go Row, Mary-Kate and Ashley had no experience out of their way to curry favor through old-fashioned apparel Tat the other end of the market, where relationships and trust industry marketing standards. They have eschewed proce- are hard-earned. Mary-Kate recalls the early days of trying dural protocol in many ways, which has been admirable to sell the fall 2007 collection in Paris when she, her sister and, at times, irritating. Their relationship with the press and two other employees would rent an apartment and take can be elusive, and was especially so in their early days. They sales appointments. “We would be selling the clothes off of forwent formal runway presentations until fall 2010 and still us,” she says. “We had a rack and the stores would come refuse to let outside photographers shoot their shows. Nor do in and say, ‘OK, explain every garment, take us through it.’ they indulge the standard inspiration-laden sound bite que- And they would say, ‘If you’re here next season we’ll do this ries post-show. For example, after staging their fall 2015 show again.’ They wanted to make sure we were going to show up on the vacant 35th floor of the Mies van der Rohe-designed every season, the product to be shipped on time, and it was Seagram Building, Mary-Kate summarized the collection going to evolve and be well made.” succinctly: “I think the space really says it all.” “We own our They are reticent to extoll their aesthetic ambitions — or company. maybe just refreshingly matter-of-fact. “It’s always, purchase our fabrics first and figure out our proportion of the season,” We’re not really Mary-Kate says. “We design in a very mathematical way. We being told by have a sku count in the system and we design into it that way. We’re very aware of budget and the way what works anyone else and what doesn’t work.” what to do or The Row has also yet to mount an ad campaign. “We think about it,” Mary-Kate says. “We’re definitely like, can you put what numbers that budget aside? We try to think about our clients and if it’s to hit or being going directly to them and who it’s impacting. We like to think pressured to be about if you put your dollars toward something, you’ll see a return, and [a campaign] is more of an up-in-the-air thing.” doing anything. To her point, the business has more than hummed along The pressure without the aid of traditional marketing channels, even the boon that certifiable celebrity can bring to fashion enter- comes from us. prises, which the Olsens deliberately avoided. At the time of It’s not external.” The Row’s launch, the clothes had a thin, hand-stamped gold chain rather than a label, no public relations, no overt link — Ashley Olsen to Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen for the consumer to connect with, though presumably their loyal clients are now aware of who’s designing the clothes even if the general public isn’t. It was solely word of mouth. “That started telling us something, which was that if the product was right it would sell, without anyone knowing what it was,” Mary-Kate says.

etailers love the collection and see it as a scalable business, despite its slow, steady and domesti- cally produced mandate. “The Row has quietly built an incredible business, both commercial and directional, with a tremendous following,” Rsays Daniella Vitale, Barneys New York’s chief operating officer. “With an expanding retail footprint and international presence, the development of their leather accessory busi- ness, and hopefully the launch of shoes, will help to catapult them to the next level. They also have a tremendous opportu- nity in the fragrance and beauty space when they are ready.” When they are ready. That is the lead strategy at The Row. From left: Ashley (left) and Asked about a five-year plan, the sisters will only say they have Mary-Kate Olsen at the spring one, but it’s flexible. For example, they originally intended to 2005 Marc Jacobs show in New York; the sisters at the 2007 open a store in New York first but prime real estate came up CFDA Fashion Awards; and the in Los Angeles. To that end, as for future growth and goals, Olsens attend Chanel’s fall 2008 the most specific thing on the agenda is the forthcoming New runway show in Paris. York flagship, which, if it’s to be the East Coast equivalent of Dominique Maitre Eichner; Chanel by Steve by photographs ards the L.A. store’s shiny, at-home midcentury cool complete w with a swimming pool, will be very special. The sisters hold themselves accountable to their customers and CFDA A and CFDA

and themselves. “It’s a different thought process,” Ashley w MODEL: IRINA KRAVCHENKO AT WOMEN MANAGEMENT says. “We own our company. We’re not really being told OLSEN MAKEUP: GITA BASS AT STARWORKS by anyone else what to do or what numbers to hit or being OLSEN HAIR: KEITH CARPENTER AT THE WALL GROUP pressured to be doing anything. The pressure comes from MODEL MAKEUP: JUNKO KIOKA AT JOE MANAGEMENT

us. It’s not external.” ■ Jacobs sho Marc MODEL HAIR: AYUMI YAMAMOT AT DEFACTO

186 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 The

Six

Christopher Kane The Stargazer

here is no stopping this young Scot who’s worked alongside Donatella Versace and who secured a backer in Kering Group not long after Tlaunching his label. Retailers say he’s redefining luxury for a new generation of men and women with a heady mix of craftsmanship, novel styling — and an obsession with nature and science.

By SAMANTHA CONTI Photo credit: Artist Name Artist credit: Photo

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Christopher Kane | The Stargazer Disparate as they are, both are symbols of the eclectic new world the 32-year-old Kane is determined to build. Last month Phillips flickered with can- dles and light projections that resembled constellations — Kane is an out-and-proud science geek — as the venue for a dinner to mark the opening of the designer’s first stand-alone store, on London’s tony Mount Street. Seated at the long table were François- Henri Pinault, chairman and chief execu- tive officer of Kane’s majority shareholder Kering, and his wife Salma Hayek; Kane’s friends Erin O’Connor, Caroline Sieber and Fritz von Westenholz; his Mount Street neighbors Nicholas Kirkwood and Solange Azagury-Partridge; the store’s architect John Pawson, and one of Kane’s aunts who’d traveled from Scotland for the opening. The Kanes are a tight bunch. Ten years ago, for any young, emerging London designer, the Phillips scenario The soaring Phillips auction house on would have been surreal, a juicy fan- tasy: A billionaire luxury-goods backer! A flagship in Mayfair! Double-digit sales growth! And while Kane’s brand of suc- Berkeley Square in Mayfair is a galaxy cess — rapid, consistent, well-timed and well deserved — may be rare, he’s also proving that an ambitious London design away from the sprawling, seen-better-days talent can have a shot at worldwide, branded stardom. Kane, who founded his label in 2006 industrial space on Shacklewell Lane in and sold a majority stake to Kering two years ago, is determined to rocket as far as he can. “I’m not going to lie. Of course I want stores all over the world. Because East London where Christopher Kane you want to really reach out to everyone, and why not?” says the designer, who’s noted for his neon bright palette and spends his days — and nights — designing. sharp industrial details coupled with patterns inspired by the human form, computer graphics and outer space. “The whole point of building the busi- ness is growth, and natural growth, so bring it on. I want the business to be profitable and success- ful in five years, 10 years. That’s the whole point. I love my job, but at the same time I want the product to sell, to really seduce people. We’re on our way to being that household name. Baby steps, but we’re doing really well,” he says during an interview before a studio shoot. Even Kane’s choice of architect for the new 4,100-square- foot flagship shows the scale on which he’s thinking. John Pawson is the celebrity British architect who famously designed the Calvin Klein Collection store in New York in the mid-Nineties, sparking a rage for white-box minimal retail interiors. A clothing-driven, luxury fashion brand is what Kane is after, and he’d already started building it with his sister and 24-hour sounding board Tammy Kane, the company’s dep- uty creative director — even before Kering came along. He’d completed a three-year stint with Donatella Versace to design the Versus line, revived in 2009 after a four-year hiatus, and collaborated with J Brand, Topshop, Swarovski and ►

190 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Shiseido before Kering took a 51 percent stake in his brand. Glasgow. “The perception is of a raw talent from Scotland MODEL: YANA VAN GINNEKEN AT NEXT Last year, with Kering’s backing, Kane launched a leather who has had a great success story.” MAKEUP BY JANE RICHARDSON FOR NARS COSMETICS and precious skins accessories line, featuring signature safety Ed Burstell, managing director of Liberty, agrees. “You HAIR BY JON CHAPMAN buckle fastenings, and on May 1 his first color cosmetics look at the pieces and know they will stand the test of time,” AT CAROL HAYES MANAGEMENT collection, with Nars, hits department- and specialty-store he says. “The coats, in particular, are to die for.” He believes counters. The collection features neon brights — think Stabilo Kering was “future-proofing” when it bought Kane, and has Boss highlighters — and sparkling shades with science-lab ample resources to transform the brand into a global pow- monikers, such as Starscape Blush, Quantum Illuminating erhouse. “My hope is that they don’t push him too fast. The Multiple, and Nucleus Lip Gloss. growth needs to be at the designer’s pace.” Kane is unabashed about his love of science, which dove- Kane’s new ceo Sarah Crook, a Kering veteran who helped tails naturally with his artistic instincts, Leonardo da Vin- build Stella McCartney into a multimillion-dollar business, is ci-style. “I look at everything, I’m not a snob when it comes to determined to focus on organic growth, with a very measured visual information or TV or film or music, so, keep your eyes approach to strategy. “Christopher is very much about cre- and ears open, really, that’s how I do it,” he says, adding that ativity,” she says, adding that the plan is to nurture it, push he’s always loved biology in particular. “I think there’s such the boundaries and innovate as well. “I think he has a great a great source of inspiration there, when it comes to nature, ability to stretch into the lifestyle element, and that is cer- and obviously the brain.” His at times racy collection for fall tainly the plan. The objective is to become a global creative was inspired by sexual romance and featured embroidered fashion brand.” ribbons zigzagging across lace dresses like an EKG during an orgasm. hile fashion has been, and will always be, the heartbeat of his business, Kane is rom the get-go, Kering’s aim was to transform Kane already thinking about launching eyewear into a global brand name. “Christopher Kane is and fragrance categories, and building up already established as a luxury label and has a tre- the beauty line. “Because at the end of the mendous intrinsic growth potential,” Pinault noted Wday, not every little girl or teenager is going to be able to afford in 2013, right after taking a stake in the company. a Christopher Kane dress or a sweater, but she can afford this F“We have great ambitions for the brand.” great lipstick or lip gloss.” Retailers believe the Kane mission is possible. “He is rede- Although Kering declined to reveal any numbers, industry fining luxury for a whole new generation. His trailblazing sources estimate Kane’s business was turning more than 7 mil- take on luxury and craftsmanship is a perfect match for the lion pounds, or $11.1 million, two years ago when the designer modern customer’s appetite for newness,” says Suzanne sold it, and is now generating about 11 million pounds, or Timmins, senior vice president and fashion director at Hud- $16.5 million, in annual sales. The brand has 150 points of son’s Bay. “His showstopping dresses often sell out before distribution, including Barneys New York, Neiman Marcus, they have even hit the floor. He is still in the early stages of Jeffrey and Opening Ceremony, and is notching double-digit his career, so there is endless potential for development in growth year-on-year. many categories.” “I look at Europe remains the strongest region for the label, with Laura Larbalestier, women’s buying director at Browns in everything, the U.K. being Kane’s biggest market. According to Crook, London, which has been buying Kane’s collections since he South Korea is also an important country, while Hong Kong made his runway debut in 2006, says he epitomizes London I’m not a snob and China offer much potential. creativity and is seen as “the city’s most directional designer.” when it comes “The real growth opportunity is obviously the U.S.,” says She believes customers respond to the narrative around Crook, who’s traveling in the States on appointments with the designer, the youngest of five from a town southeast of to visual Kane. (The designer will be in New York attending the Met information Gala on May 4 and dressing one of the celebrity guests, or TV or film although he’s mum on the details.) The next retail venture will be online, and is scheduled or music, so, to start trading later this year. “That’ll already be our global keep your visibility store, which we’d like to do in a sort of different way. In the next five years, for sure, we’re planning to have eyes and ears an increase in the number of stores. We will definitely be in open, really, the key markets,” Crook says. Accessories, she adds, will eventually generate 25 to 30 that’s how I percent of the business. “We’re doing a bit more development do it.” on the footwear category, which has been very good for us, actually. We’re seeing a very good trajectory on that.” ay by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni ay by

This could not be a better time for Kane, whose brain is a w geyser, ever exploding with fresh ideas. He is so prolific that Tammy has been known to snatch away his pencil and sketch pad. “At the beginning of a collection he starts sketching. He’ll do 200 sketches, and I’ll say: ‘It’s enough! We just need 20. It’s time to stop now, Chris,’” Tammy said in an earlier interview. She describes her brother going to Milan for Versus with a stack of sketches and virtually being able to wallpaper Versace’s studio with them. Not surprisingly, Kane’s archive is crammed with years of ideas that have not yet seen the light of the catwalk. “Some- times it is good to get them out…like ‘I need to get this over with’ and do it, and then it’s done,” he says. “Or it’s some- times good to have recurring themes from other seasons come back. It’s nice to reinvent them again. We’re always looking back to look forward. And then every season we do change direction, and it’s an education in itself, because we’re working with new fabrics, new techniques.” From left: Christopher Kane Despite the creative proliferation, the designer isn’t easily at the 2014 Scottish Fashion overwhelmed. “Resort, men’s, I’m one-track, I’m literally like, Awards; Kane with Amber Le do it, do it, do it. We’ve already started spring/summer, I’m Bon (left) and Yasmin Le Bon at his London flagship debut really on track with that, and I feel good,” says Kane, whose last month; and Kane at his universe just keeps on getting bigger. ■ ards photograph by Chris Jackson/Getty Images; Le Bon by David M. Benett/Getty Images; Run Benett/Getty David M. Bon by Images; Le Chris Jackson/Getty by photograph ards w

fall 2009 show. — With contributions from Nina Jones A

192 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 The

Six

Proenza Schouler The Originals

roenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez arrived in fashion at a critical moment, as an American industry suddenly felt the need for a Pjolt of young talent. The Proenza boys have it all — talent, star power, the germ of chic and, it turns out, the savvy to grow up and grow big.

By BRIDGET FOLEY Micro light 6/7 Micro

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 The Originals Good news: Your publicist/mentor Proenza Schouler | Pierre Rougier has arranged an appoint- ment with senior editors from British Vogue. Bad news: Pierre and the British Vogue team can’t gain access to your live/ work loft; you and your friends don’t hear the phone. You’re all dead asleep, sprawled amongst empty alcohol contain- ers after a “crazy party” the night before. “God, that feels like ages ago. It feels like another life,” says the pants-wear- ing Jack McCollough, the only fifth in view not an empty booze bottle, but exit number five from the recent, fabulous fall Proenza Schouler collection now hanging on the racks of the brand’s spacious SoHo showroom. He and Lazaro Hernandez moved the business there after the Walker Street building was shut down due to a counterfeit operation run out Good news: Glenda Bailey is coming of the basement. Law enforcement may have done them an inconvenient favor; leaving marked one of several small mile- to see your much-ballyhooed fashion stones in the company’s development. In one’s early 30s, 12 or 13 years are a lifetime ago. During that span you really collection. Bad news: Glenda arrives early grow up, transitioning from post-adoles- cence, when judgment and reasoning are still clinical works in progress, to the full adult you’re going to be. If you’ve had at your home/work loft on New York’s your own business throughout, you may not consider it nascent. But fashion is an industry in which youth is worshiped but, gritty Walker Street, and you’re in your on the brand level, longevity rules. At 13, Proenza Schouler is still in its formative phase, yet formed enough to present early underwear, lint-rolling the clothes and success and vast potential to the world. Hernandez and McCollough have packed a lot of growth into their brand’s decade-plus. They burst into industry smoking cigarettes. awareness with a dazzling senior show at The New School’s Parsons School of Design, a collection purchased by Bar- neys New York. At the time, American fashion was lean on breakthrough talent who’d lasted. Narciso Rodriguez and Derek Lam were the more recent successes with Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs still considered young stars. Others had tried, but none stuck. Hernandez and McCollough arrived at one of those critical moments on the precipice of change. Culturally, emergent social media opened the inside world of fashion to outsiders, and the American industry was about to embark on a new, youth-nurturing platform. The Proenza boys, as they were and sometimes still are called, had the talent and charisma to help force the change. Their arrival would resonate with future rounds of young aspirants; whereas once they were the inspired, now they’re the inspiration. From de-linting in their underwear and showing clothes on wire hangers, the designers — together with chief executive officer Shirley Cook who has been with them from the start — have built Proenza Schouler into a business of considerable size; various industry estimates average in the $85 million arena. They have more than 250 points of sale across more than 20 countries, and a tight network of their own stores — nine in total — for which they have conservative growth plans. ►

196 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Most importantly, they believe deeply in fashion and that audaciously into grommets, tony tweeds twisted and slashed, creative expression need not fall victim to growth. the Forties influence ultimately veering toward a bold, beauti- ful and unintentional tribal power. Yet the designers still want hey started with a clear belief system, if not a their runway to resonate as real. “That balance between art fully formed aesthetic. “There was a downtown and commerce has always been the balance we’re looking fashion scene, kind of reappropriating vintage for,” McCollough says. clothing and that sort of thing,” McCollough Essential to that balance is continued development of says. Between them, they run through a litany accessories. The PS1 Bag debuted in 2009, just as the reces- T— Benjamin Cho, AsFour, Zero [Maria Cornejo], Susan Cianci- sion exploded and discretionary sales tanked. Hernandez olo, punctuated by Hernandez searching for one more name: says the bag “saved” them; overall, the Proenza business “Jesus, or Christ, Imitation of Christ!” increased in 2009, even as it took a big hit with the clothes. While they admired the deconstructing/distressing work “Our business really changed when we launched bags,” being done, their instincts ran counter. They felt strongly McCollough says, noting that retailers took them more seri- about construction, an affinity rooted in the antithetical ously once the bags arrived in the showroom, offering a first beliefs that if the current cool was to destroy, then real sub- inkling of a full “Proenza Schouler world.” Though recent version lay in its opposite, and in a traditional view of artistic strong clothing sales put their current rtw-to-accessories ratio education: If Picasso had to learn how to draw and paint lit- at 50:50, that breakdown will unlikely remain static. Yet even erally before he could go all Blue and Surreal, they had better as they embrace the category, the designers find it challenging, well know how to build a jacket. At the same time, they’re and not just on the competitive level. Whereas they design children of the Nineties, “a generation of grunge,” Hernandez shoes — done in partnership with Iris — as integral to the fashion says. “It’s a weird sort of vision: the atelier couture thing, but look, “a bag is an external object,” according to McCollough, the vision of someone who grew up in the Nineties. It’s the “more of a product design exercise versus a fashion exercise.” mix of both worlds.” Along the way, they experimented with numerous motifs, nother business-building challenge: their own only in the last couple of years clarifying their aesthetic. It stores. The brand has two in New York, on swings between a tech-inspired “Tumblr vibe” and more overt Madison Avenue and Greene Street, three in refinement, delivered with great range from one season to the Seoul, two in Bangkok and one each in Hong next, lest the shows turn predictable. They’ve also defined Kong and Singapore, and is close to opening in their customer. Hernandez: “A contemporary woman linked Tokyo.A While the designers and Cook would love to venture in with the arts, fashion, music, theater. Interested in luxury, into Europe, they find the environment difficult without the in creativity.” McCollough: “There’s a nonchalance. There’s structure prevalent across Asia, where they’ve partnered with something kind of undone about her, an easy spirit the way she Club 21 and, in South Korea, Shinsegae. carries herself.” Hernandez: “A weird dichotomy, a casualness So far, Hernandez and McCollough have followed “a slow to her attitude, but the choices in clothes are always impec- “I think most build” approach, acting instinctively rather than according to cable, the taste level elevated. But the attitude isn’t fussy.” of [our investors] a master plan. Yet they acknowledge the need for increased That approach has made the Proenza Schouler show one strategic planning as the company expands. of the most anticipated of every fashion season. As their realized that In 2011, a group of investors led by Andrew Rosen and John pre-season collections have grown, now accounting for 60 if they let us Howard bought into the company, ultimately acquiring a 50 percent of ready-to-wear sales, they’ve intensified the drama percent stake. A board headed by Rose Marie Bravo, who on their runway. A perfect example: Their most recent show, do what we do, mentored Cook through the Council of Fashion Designers a stellar outing inspired by photographs from the Forties and they’re going to of America’s Vogue Fashion Fund, meets regularly, “so it’s the work of Helen Frankenthaler. Prim polka dots abstracted have a return. a whole different level of professionalism,” Hernandez says. And of expectation. Asked whether a $1 billion volume is The wrong a goal, he says: “Our partners and investors want us to keep thing for them growing and growing and growing. It’s the way people run businesses today. You don’t plateau — ever.” to do would be Among the categories that make sense to investigate: men’s to clip our wear and fragrance. “The irony of growing is that it takes more money to do so,” Hernandez says. “We’re looking to raise wings. We capital. Hopefully by this year, there will be something hap- haven’t let pening, and we’ll definitely use that to take it to the next level.” anyone down The designers claim not to fear a minority ownership sit- uation. The keys, they say: Retain creative control and know yet.” – Lazaro thy investors. “I think most of [our investors] realized that if Hernandez they let us do what we do, they’re going to have a return,” Hernandez says. “The wrong thing for them to do would be to clip our wings. We haven’t let anyone down yet.” They have experienced the diverse stresses of running a business. McCollough estimates that putting on a show takes up 20 percent of their time, the imbalance spent in all kinds of meetings, “day after day, hour after hour. There’s press we have to think about, retail, all of the other creative stuff, h.r.…” Hernandez cuts in: “People and their problems, so many problems.” Despite such irritants, they don’t whine. Instead, they retreat to their house upstate where they immerse themselves in the actual fashion design aspect of the fashion business. They even see an upside to the workload. Sure, their artist friends may have a gallery show every couple of years and paint on their own schedule, and film types can take breaks between projects, time to rest and restore. Bad news: Fashion’s creativity-on-demand schedule doesn’t From left: Lazaro Hernandez allow for such respite. (left) and Jack McCollough host Good news: “You make a movie and it’s bad, it takes a Proenza Schouler dinner; the another five years to redeem yourself,” McCollough says. designers attend the 2009 CFDA Fashion Awards; the “[For us], three months later, we have another collection MODEL: HARLETH KUUSIK AT THE SOCIETY “Proenza boys” at their studio to say something new and exciting.” Adds Hernandez: “It’s MAKEUP BY MAKI AT THE WALL GROUP

in New York in 2003. easier to redeem yourself.” ■ Chinsee George Eichner; Studio by Steve by photographs and CFDA Party HAIR BY HANJEE AT JED ROOT

198 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 The

Six

J.W. Anderson The Thinker

thoughtful strategist and cunning image-maker, Jonathan Anderson has brought innovation to Loewe and employed androgynyA — and a gust of the go-go Eighties — to lift the notoriety of his J.W. Anderson brand. And he’s only 30.

By MILES SOCHA Photo credit: Artist Name Artist credit: Photo

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 J.W. Anderson | The Thinker All of these factors and more churn in the tousled head of Jonathan Anderson, a 30-year-old designer with an intellectual bent he applies to his fast-growing J.W. Anderson brand in London and the his- toric Spanish leather goods house Loewe, which he’s helmed since 2013. He’s ada- mant that breaking through the clutter and succeeding in fashion today depends more on strategic thinking than miracu- lous draping or phenomenal sketching. “In fashion today, yes it’s about cloth- ing, but fundamentally, we live in a world now that demands a global picture,” says Anderson, just back from a brief holiday in Marrakech that gave his usually pale complexion a healthy glow. “It entails the image. You know, who is the person? What is the cultural environment around that character? I think people want that more. They don’t want the bag without the story; they don’t want the shoe with- out the story, they don’t want the dress A designer today needs to ponder far without the story.” To be sure, Anderson has unfurled some pretty big ideas in recent years, more than skirt lengths and color palettes. particularly with his makeover of Madrid- based Loewe: Appropriating Nineties-era fashion imagery as present-day ad cam- paigns; bringing an unvarnished, bor- There’s social media to consider; a sea derline blunt cast to the typically glossy luxury world; and introducing some dramatic store concepts, exemplified by of other labels seeking the limelight; the transporting a “borrowed” 18th-century granary building known as an hórreo from Spain and planting the stone struc- changing context of luxury, and the fickle ture as the centerpiece of its new Miami store. “I’m trying to go into the heritage, create new heritage, and trying to fun- damentally excite people,” he explains. attention span of the Snapchat generation. He’s been no slouch with his J.W. Anderson brand either, fanning debate about genderless fashion via his modern androgyny for men and sticking a thumb in the eye of countless designers mining the Seventies as he shifted a decade ahead with his divisive ode to all things Eighties for his fall women’s collection. “For me, fashion is exciting, and it should be exciting whether you get it wrong or right,” he says. “If you do generic things, you know, after a while, brands or designers become stagnated. You have to be slightly uncomfortable with what you’re doing, and you have to be able to try to find moments of newness.” Analyzing today’s fashion, business and cultural landscape seems like a natural impulse for Anderson, an articulate, pensive sort, who is fond of four- and five-syllable words and typically dresses in a loose crewneck sweater and jeans. Asked about his approach to fashion — immediate, personal, a bit raw — he muses: “In terms of luxury, I feel like maybe the next 10 years are going to go through many changes as all industries do. And I think it is going to be about the idea of luxury and what does that really mean to people? You know, is it cookie-cutter? Is it about airport shopping? These are the questions that I feel are going to have to be asked.” Born in Northern Ireland, Anderson studied men’s wear ►

202 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 at the London College of Fashion, going on to work in visual look based on a different “character,” often interpreting a merchandising at Prada under the late Manuela Pavesi. He fashion decade in which he didn’t grow up. He’s up front consulted for several brands before launching his own label in that his collections involve heavy amounts of research that 2008, initially showing off-calendar in London and ultimately can include pictures, ceramics, vintage clothing — whatever demonstrating a flair for kooky, boundary-pushing designs — with looks mocked up via photo montages or on the body. such as frilly shorts and bandeau tops for men. Curiously, “I know it sounds really boring, but it is more just about he says the androgyny emerged partly out of necessity: To a look,” he says. “I’m very open about my referencing, I’m meet fabric minimums for his men’s brand, he decided to do very open about who I work with. I mean, this is not a one- women’s and make the same thing for both sexes. Funnily man show. It’s two brands that I have to do, and both of them enough, it caught on, initially in Japan, Korea and Singapore. have huge amounts of extremely talented people and you Soon came British Fashion Awards, two collections for Top- collaborate with them, and that’s where modernity is today.” shop, a one-off capsule for Versus beside Donatella Versace Steven Meisel’s photography from the Nineties is an inspi- and, by 2013, twin deals with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis ration for Anderson, particularly a shot of Kirsten Owen and Vuitton, which took a 46 percent stake in his J.W. Anderson other models on a beach in Spain. “So the clothing is not label and handed him the star creative role at Loewe. mine, and the models — some are still modeling, and some are While he’s barreling toward fashion’s big leagues, his predi- no longer — it doesn’t really matter: That was the woman, so lection for experimentation remains intact, especially in men’s there’s no point in me trying to reenact,” he explains. “I just wear. “There’s a lot more ground to be covered. And there are liked the idea that this is my mood board, this is my reference a lot more things to be challenged,” he says. “I think the men’s point, and for me, they are some of the most iconic images in wear market is going through a slight cultural revolution.” the last 20 years. Why not just put them out there?” He’s also not shy about shaking up traditional notions of Anderson has strong opinions about the Internet age, too: luxury, arguing that a store’s ambiance and character should He’s fascinated by how a person or a brand can now cultivate reflect its surroundings and “have a bit of soul to it.” For a huge following online. The ultimate example, he says, is example, Loewe’s diminutive Milan store, one of the first he soccer star Cristiano Ronaldo, who has 35 million followers tackled, retains the character of its previous purpose — an on Twitter and more than 102 million fans on Facebook. apartment — heightened by the addition of Arts and Crafts Thanks to social media, he observes, consumers now furniture, Anderson’s passion. “I think people want to be engage directly with brands and people they like. “I think able to go in to experience something, and it doesn’t need there has to be a very noncalculated approach to it. That’s to be this generic rollout. Because I feel the consumer is the joy in it — that it’s spontaneous. So brands have to be wanting to be challenged. Do you know what I mean? I think spontaneous. I think you have to be yourself,” the designer we underestimated the consumer,” he says. notes. “Instagram is a very fine example of it. People want that, because they don’t want to go through the middle man, he furnishings in Loewe stores — William they want to go straight to the source.” Morris and Charles Rennie Mackintosh chairs Anderson’s energy and ambition are obvious. Asked to are particular favorites — play into his idea of name designers he admires, he mentions one with a nucle- placing fashion in a broader cultural context. “I think ar-powered work ethic: Karl Lagerfeld. “I see Loewe as a public landmark, so anyone there has “I really do admire Karl for the velocity and the kind of Tcan go into it, like a library or a museum, so you have to be uncompromisable-ness of it. He’s seen fashion evolve through able to give back,” he says. “Plus it kind of gives the setting to be a very a period where it’s probably changed more in his lifetime for the dress, and at the same time gives reality. I find some- noncalculated than it ever changed before it. And through that, you learn,” times luxury environments are very heavy, and very kind of he says. “I think it’s incredible what he has accomplished one-directional. And collections are never like that.” approach to at Chanel and it’s a very difficult thing he does with ease.” Anderson’s certainly aren’t. Each season, he builds up a [social media]. Anderson is clear that when he started J.W. Anderson, his initial thought was to “make it into a brand” and not just That’s the joy introduce another designer collection. “It would be good in it — that it’s that the brand stands the test of time, maybe even one day spontaneous. without me being there,” he muses.

Market sources estimate the J.W. Anderson business gen- Delphine Achard e Milan by So brands erates revenues of about 5 million British pounds, or $7.5 w have to be million, while Loewe is said to be approaching revenues of 350 million euros, or $378 million at current exchange rates. spontaneous. “In terms of growth and in terms of projections, I think I think you have we’re on the right track,” he says about his signature business. “Ultimately it has to be a realistic growth.” to be yourself.” He noted the J.W. Anderson business is working to build up its wholesale following and direct sales via an online store. Men’s wear represents about 30 percent of the total, which he deems “stabilizing” as men tend to be more loyal to brands, ard by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images; Loe Wilson/Getty Stuart C. by ard and the market offers more expansion potential. w He sees a first boutique, probably in London, as three to five years away. “I just don’t think it’s necessarily the right moment to do, and I think it would kind of feel like it’s nearly too predictable,” he says. e; British Fashion A e; British Fashion Likewise, he’s proud that ready-to-wear sales at Loewe, his- w torically a marginal category, have gone up, and that some of his initial bag designs, notably the Puzzle, Flamenco Knot and Anton, have found traction alongside its iconic Amazona bag. “I believe you have to have many anchors, many pillars to hold up a brand. We are very fortunate that we have a very strong leather goods brand in our [Loewe] business, because it’s a very rare thing and it takes years and years and years and years to build.” From left: Jonathan Anderson He notes that his adventure at Loewe is young, with not with model Amanda Murphy at even a year of sales under his belt. And while off to a promis- Loewe’s Miami store debut in ing start, he talks in measured tones. “For the consumer, if it March; the designer at the 2013 British Fashion Awards; and grows too quick, then it feels unnatural, you know,” he says. MODEL: DAMARIS GODDRIE AT VIVA LONDON

“We’ve got a long journey to go, and if it happened overnight Loe Images for John Parra/Getty by e Miami photograph Anderson in Loewe’s Milan store w MAKEUP BY: ANGELA DAVIS DEACON AT FACTORY

in 2014. it would be really boring.” ■ Loe HAIR BY: SVEN BAYERBACH AT FACTORY

204 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Viewfinder: Myanmar at Play… The four-day Thingyan water festival leading up to the Myanmar New Year has people pouring water down each others’ backs and spraying hoses as a purification ritual and to bring good luck. And, like at festivals everywhere, teens use the time to party and dress like pop stars.

¬ While the Thingyan festival is a purification ritual, it’s a cause for celebration on multiple fronts. Young teens — who get the days off from school or work — danced and celebrated at a concert in downtown Yangon, posed for a portrait at Sule Pagoda or, in the case of a few, passed out in the bed of a truck after a hard morning of partying near Inya Lake.

Photographs by Lauren DeCicca

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM APRIL 29, 2015 207 ¬ Call it Thingyan style. While the goal is to get soaking wet to bring good luck in the Myanmar New Year, that didn’t keep teens and others from dressing in their best and parading through the streets during the festival — from the group at left posing near city hall to others near Maha Bandoola Park, Sule Pagoda or on Maha Bandoola Road.

00 MONTH208 00, 2015APRIL WWD.COM 29, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Giorgio Armani’s silk velvet top with Veronique Branquinho’s cotton lace top. Headpiece by Piers Atkinson. OPPOSITE Alexander McQueen’s metallic lace gown and shoes. Ring by Flowen.

A heady darkness permeated the fall collections. Designers drew on romantic notions of Victoriana, rendering lace, tulle and embroidery in chaste silhouettes, their gentleness betrayed by a latent sensuality. T HE EDGE of INNOCENCE Photographs by BILLY KIDD

Illustration: Artist Name Artist Illustration: Name Artist Illustration: Styled by MAYTE ALLENDE

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Giles’ patent-leather jacket with wool sleeves and silk velvet dress. OPPOSITE Gucci’s black-net tulle long-sleeve crewneck dress with flower embroidery top. Headpiece by Olympia Le-Tan. Illustration: Artist Name Artist Illustration: Name Artist Illustration:

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci’s jacquard, velvet, devoré, jersey and chiffon dress. OPPOSITE Marc Jacobs’ nylon skirt and wool shorts, with Alexander Wang’s bemberg silk top. Rings by Diaboli Kill and Cornelia Webb. Illustration: Artist Name Artist Illustration: Name Artist Illustration:

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Simone Rocha’s chenille embroidery dress. Gloves by Thom Browne, shoes by Jimmy Choo and earrings by Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci. OPPOSITE Eddie Borgo’s earrings and Diaboli Kill’s ring. Illustration: Artist Name Artist Illustration: Name Artist Illustration:

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 MODEL: MAGDALENA JASEK/THE SOCIETY HAIR BY DIEGO DA SILVA FOR TIM HOWARD MANAGEMENT MAKEUP BY ERIC POLITO FOR ART DEPARTMENT FASHION ASSISTANTS: MILTON DIXON AND EMILY MERCER PHOTO ASSISTANTS: BRADLEY ENNIS AND CHRIS GREGORY

Valentino’s gown with black tulle base and Swarovski crystals. Earrings and headpiece

Illustration: Artist Name Artist Illustration: Name Artist Illustration: by Eddie Borgo.

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 The overcoat — a little longer in luxe fabrics and with the occasional flamboyant touch — is the ultimate statement for going undercover on those chilly New York nights.

Paul Smith’s wool coat, Boss’ wool blazer, Ber- Village luti’s cotton sweater and Bottega Veneta’s wool pants. Bottega Veneta scarf; Dries Van Noten shoes. OPPOSITE Polo Ralph Lauren’s wool coat, Loewe’s polyamide and wool Noir sweater and No. 21’s Photography by Takay cotton shirt.

Styled00 MONTH 00, 2015 byWWD.COM Alex Badia Carven’s wool and polyester coat, Raf Simons’ wool vest, Pal Zileri’s cotton shirt and Boss’ wool pants. Hermès scarf; Ovadia & Sons’ belt; Brioni gloves; Coach sneakers. OPPOSITE Ermenegildo Zegna Couture’s wool and polyester coat, Tommy Hilfiger’s cotton shirt, E. Tautz’s wool sweater, Neil Barrett’s wool turtleneck and Isaia’s wool pants. Bottega Veneta tie; Brioni gloves.

WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Gucci’s wool coat and Michael Kors’ silk shirt. Bottega Veneta scarf. OPPOSITE Hermès’ cashmere coat, sweater and cotton shirt, Costume National’s wool turtleneck and AMI’s wool pants. Marni boots.

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM Ovadia & Sons’ wool coat, No. 21’s wool sweater and silk shirt and Calvin Klein Collection’s wool pants. Brioni gloves.

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 MODEL: ANDY WALTERS AT NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT HAIR: CLAUDIO BELIZARIO USING ORIBE HAIR CARE AT JED ROOT FASHION ASSISTANT: LUIS CAMPUZANO AND KAYANA CORDWELL PHOTO ASSISTANTS: STEVE GAUDIN, JIMI FRANKLIN, CHRIS CALLAWAY

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Burberry Prorsum’s wool coat, Valentino’s cashmere sweater, Marni’s cotton shirt and Berluti’s cotton pants. Hermès scarf; Bottega Veneta tie; Lanvin gloves. Bridget Foley’s Diary The She-Gods of Fashion

Earlier this month, Marigay McKee was fired from Saks Fifth the CFDA, she helped orchestrate the explosion of American fashion over the last 10 years. Avenue after a brief, high-profile tenure as president. I have And speaking of the fashion explosion, who is involved in more aspects globally than Anna Win- zero inside insight into what went wrong, but from the outside tour? These days, Anna directs more and more of Condé Nast editorial while suggesting (some would looking in, it feels acute; perhaps a defining event hastened say installing) designers for major-brand jobs and commanding up to 25 grand a head to benefit an mutual acknowledgment of the proverbial “wrong fit.” already rich charity — and then controlling the guest list down to the last seat. In a not particularly Two weeks ago Time released its list of “The clever pun on her surname, Anna has been lik- 100 Most Influential People in the World.” Two ened to a nuclear event, her pop-culture persona from our world made the cut: Alexander Wang resonating in cheesy chick lit and on celluloid as and Diane von Furstenberg. Whether either Satan in a skirt. merits most influential in the world status can be Said skirt was designed (at least in the script) debated; such lists are designed for provocation by sister she-god Miuccia Prada, who in turn and entertainment. Few would argue against dared to engage in heady conversation with a DVF’s place as one of the great powers of the dead person for Anna’s Costume Institute. The fashion industry. core of Miuccia’s power is rooted in her day job. These two events — Marigay’s ouster and Diane’s Decades in, her brilliant work remains a dazzling Time distinction — have nothing to do with each gold standard recognized virtually universally in other per se. But they juxtapose well in the conver- a highly opinionated, often fractious industry. As sation on gender and success. The Marigay news for her quirks, they swing a tad contrary. Miuccia unleashed a torrent of talk, from the admonish- once acknowledged finding perverse amusement ments of many who “knew it wouldn’t last” to the when, during a show, treacherous shoes caused defense (albeit rarer) offered by some that the ax numerous models to tremble — and one to tumble wouldn’t have fallen “had she been a man.” — in discomfort and woe. “I liked it,” Miuccia said. There’s no question that, as with every other “It made the show more interesting.” industry on Earth, fashion’s senior-most ranks on Rei Kawakubo — intimidating? Ya think? She, both the business and creative sides are dominated Must a woman be softer, too, sources her power from creative genius, hers by men. Unlike every other industry on Earth, fascinating in its ability to still shock, thrill, con- fashion’s male domination extends to numbers gentler, more coy, more found and incite after all these years. Her position but not to rank. of hallowed avant-garde creator so overwhelms Imagine an eight-columned temple on Fashion fill-in-the-feminine-modifier that acolytes often dare not acknowledge her Olympus, each pillar the seat of a top power god. than men to achieve power cleverness. Iconoclast and icon, Kawakubo pushes Though not synonymous, power and influence the artistic boundaries on her runway even as she are inextricably linked in fashion, now more and influence? peddles a parallel world of approachable merch (a than ever. As with Time’s list, compilations of heart-with-eyes T-shirt; fab men’s shirts) and devel- “Most” anything — Influential/Powerful/Beautiful/ ops her daring Dover Street Market retail network. Annoying — exude subjectivity, derived from no When, for a story on the opening of the New York pat Pythagorean equation. My Olympic formula the pinnacle, though ascendant and surely atop store, WWD asked if she considers herself more considers but doesn’t overvalue of-the-moment the forward-looking peak of chic sustainability. artist or businesswoman, she-deity Rei didn’t miss influence à la Riccardo Tisci and Phoebe Philo, Tom Ford? Also on the extreme power ascent, a beat or waste a word: “I am a businesswoman.” whose work for Givenchy and Céline resonates with Hollywood in his corner and on his résumé. Direct yet mysterious. with their peers as strongly as with consumers. Yet none has the power of the she-gods, no other An aura of mystery — each of fashion’s she-gods Rather, “most powerful and influential” involves designer, fashion house or retail ceo, nor any wears one, likely borne of innate preference but a petrie-dish concoction of commercial clout, emergent star from the tech world, at least not yet. cultivated for the commercial good. Extremely pri- creativity, personality and that indomitable X So must a woman be softer, gentler, more coy, vate and not out, about and chronicled constantly factor that inspires something in others — awe, more fill-in-the-feminine-modifier than men to in the media, Miuccia and Rei assume theirs easily. admiration, fascination, fear. achieve and retain power and influence? The great For Anna and Diane, both so publicly present, On this Olympus, women occupy half of the sage Michael Kors once said that fashion isn’t for retaining that veil of intrigue can be no easy feat, pillars. Alongside Bernard Arnault, Karl Lagerfeld, sissies — nor, one might paraphrase, is it for soft- yet they manage. Anna is one of the most won- STEPHANIE SEYMOUR BRANT Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani stand fashion’s ies or those who would feign such status in the dered-about celebrities of our time, general public WEARS CÉLINE four great she-gods: Anna Wintour, Miuccia Prada, interests of moving up via ingratiation. (Post-IPO and industry types alike intrigued by what might Rei Kawakubo and the aforementioned Diane. Michael is another contender for near-future most lie beneath the cool, perfectly bobbed exterior. Apart from the men noted, who comes close powerful consideration.) Diane has a reality show and has written a my-life- to these women in power? Who commands the Of the she-gods, none projects demure nor ever is-an-open-book tome, yet still her fabulousness in Murray

same reverence, deference, respect, in some has. Only one has an effervescent personality fascinates — we want to know more. w cases, here’s that word again, fear? One could (guess who?). DVF’s is as big as a personality gets, Something else these women have in com- argue Alain Wertheimer, but he willingly shares, one armed with charm and cheekbones so extrav- mon: They’re obsequity-immune. Fake deference? secedes even, a chunk of his power to Karl in an agant that she can make you feel comfortable and Come on. Must a woman be softer, gentler, more arrangement that has worked out delightfully for inadequate in the same sitting. She rose to fame on coy than a man to attain and retain power? Not in

both of them. François-Henri Pinault? Not yet at strength of will and a smart dress; as president of the gloves-off world of fashion. Not the she-gods. Dale Ed by Illustration BARNEYS.COM NEW YORK BOSTON CHICAGO LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES SAN FRANCISCO SCOTTSDALE SEATTLE

INSIDER ACCESS: THEWINDOW.BARNEYS.COM 230 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM 232 APRIL 29, 2015 APRIL 29, 2015 Milan WWD.COM seven majorcities. Here’s asamplingfrom wearing inmid-April? woolens. What were they flung off theirfursand spring thechill-weary but when itwas finally SPRING ON THE STREET THEY long thisyear, lasted awfully Winter’s icygrip ARE WEARING Milan Tokyo Amsterdam London London New York Tokyo Milan San Francisco Milan Paris Tokyo WWD.COM APRIL29, 2015

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Photographs by SPENCER BROWN SAN FRANCISCO YUKIE MIYAZAKI TOKYO THOMAS IANNACCONE NEW YORK KUBA DABROWSKI MILAN DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE PARIS 234 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM KINGPINS AMSTERDAM FRANCISCO GOMEZ DE VILLABOA LONDON Think Tank Creating extraordinary experiences. Why Authenticity Matters in China by Richard Liu

of knockoffs online. Nonetheless, determined As a university student in Beijing in the Nineties, I opened counterfeiters continue to ensure that fake — and a restaurant with money I earned writing software code. sometimes dangerous — goods keep making their way into the homes of Chinese families. I took pride in the business and believe my customers And not all companies in the Chinese e-com- merce community are fully committed to authen- appreciated the quality of the food we made. Unfortunately, ticity. The addiction to the easy profits that come from sales of counterfeits has been hard to break. certain employees stole money until there was nothing left. While some in the industry believe that a com- plete shift away from counterfeits is too costly to My first business was a failure. accelerate, I’ve always believed that accepting the blight of substandard-quality products in our I learned two lessons. First, make smart choices ecosystem is a recipe for long-term disaster. about whom you entrust to run your business. This is why we have built an e-tail model Second — and more importantly — take pride in where we hold the merchandise and why we what you create and respect the work other people have focused on a marketplace system that put into creating something of quality and value. keeps the number of stores at a level that allows It was this experience, and the values I took for strict oversight. away, that formed the cornerstone of my current Accepting less would be bad for Chinese con- company, JD.com, now China’s largest e-tailer. sumers, and bad for companies committed to When most Westerners think about business innovation and product safety everywhere. in China, they think of the massive potential Counterfeits undercut consumer confidence in of the market and the ubiquity of intellectual product safety and quality. Parents want to know property violations, in about equal measure. But that the brands they are buying — from juice to for my generation of Chinese — where entrepre- crayons — offer the assurance that their products neurship and innovation is our dream — there is will help their children grow up safe and healthy. a greater appreciation of what it takes to create Equally, companies and individuals who spend something of value, such as a product or a brand, time and effort to develop the best products and a greater desire to safeguard it. As someone want to know that their intellectual capital will be who understands the pain of having something respected and protected. stolen out from under him, when I started out The relationship between Chinese consumers in the e-commerce industry I vowed to create Corporate accountability and brands around the world faces an inflection a platform that would minimize the risk of point. Global producers and most Chinese con- that happening to others. is becoming more and sumers want the same thing: safe, authentic prod- E-commerce has unquestionably revolutionized ucts. But skepticism persists on both sides about the retail market in China. It has provided a viable more significant in more the quality of what e-commerce sites are selling. and hugely successful solution to the problem regulated Western Winning back the trust that has long been of China’s weak retail network, which has long absent in the market will take significant time been a frustrating obstacle to those looking to economies. Ironically, and effort. We know this well at JD.com. We have sell clothing, fashion accessories, shoes, food or built our business on a foundation of authenticity, pretty much anything else to Chinese consumers. Chinese, state-owned yet still get questions from skeptical consumers, One of the many positive developments for enterprises may be going who have become numb to the industry plague international brands — and for JD.com — is of counterfeits. With this kind of cynicism, even that ever-more sophisticated Chinese con- in the opposite direction. an occasional counterfeit or substandard product sumers are increasingly aware of the value erodes the bonds of trust that we work so hard to and importance of quality goods. Beyond the generation growing up today doesn’t think twice build with consumers and suppliers. widely reported safety scandals, Chinese peo- about buying Adidas sneakers, Gap jeans or Cali- Today, global brands and Chinese consumers ple want high-quality, fashionable products. fornia wine from their iPhones. can finally connect in ways that they have long In China, well-known international brands are This has been good news for all parties. Chinese sought. Yet this dream can only be realized if Visit us: See you soon: often associated with those traits. consumers suddenly have many more options. the people who link the two in modern China The demand for imported products like baby As a result, domestic brands have had to improve — those of us in e-commerce — are willing to do The Grove Glendale, Ca. – Spring 2016 (mixed-use creative office space) clothes, handbags — even globally known toy their products or risk losing out. For international the hard work it takes to ensure every single The Americana at Brand Los Angeles, Ca. – Fall 2017 (mixed-use luxury residential tower) brands — has never been higher. In China, people brands, the promise of the Chinese consumer product we sell is real. The Commons at Calabasas Pacific Palisades, Ca. – Fall 2017 (mixed-use dining, entertainment and retail collection) will pay a premium for products that they can market is beginning to be realized. in Murray

trust, especially for children’s products in a coun- Yet the shift from shopping in dodgy stalls for Richard Liu is the founder and chief executive officer w The Promenade at Westlake Montecito, Ca. – Spring 2018 (beachfront luxury resort) try where most families still only have one child. goods of questionable provenance to buying on of JD.com, the largest e-tailer in China and Alibaba’s Encino Marketplace Carlsbad, Ca. – Fall 2018 (open-air retail, dining and entertainment center) E-commerce has been a game changer. When I e-commerce Web sites has not eliminated all biggest competitor. JD.com completed an IPO in May The Lakes at Thousand Oaks was growing up in the small city of Suqian, Jiangsu, the problems. It’s true that e-commerce has left 2014, selling 93.7 million shares at $19 and raising it was unimaginable that we could buy sneakers a clearer paper trail and the government has $1.78 billion. It trades under the symbol JD on the Waterside, Marina del Rey

from America or food from Europe. The younger wisely plowed resources into tackling the scourge Nasdaq exchange. Dale Ed by Illustration 8500 Burton Way carusoaffiliated.com

236 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM REMEMBER MARKETPLACE

Calendar Leading National Ladies’ Apparel Retailer HUMAN Armani Opens has immediate opening for a RESOURCES Silos Project Giorgio Armani is investing 50 RETAIL million euros, or $54 million, in OPERATIONS the Silos project, the designer’s new exhibition space located DIRECTOR UPGRADE YOUR in a former Nestlé factory and building that will house his new The candidate should have extensive experience ECOMMERCE offices in Milan. Silos will not managing retail stores, developing and executing SHIPPING BOXES only display around 800 pieces marketing plans, familiar with merchandising from the designer’s collec- and retail math, and ability to coordinate with tions over 40 years but also 3HUKSVYKZHUKÄLSKZ[HɈ[VL]VS]LHUK Kearns Exits other information relating to his position each store to its fullest potential. Façonnable career and technical drawings. Armani, who has been named ‘Prince of Dreams’ The candidate should be a strong team player Daniel Kearns has O special ambassador of Expo Coinciding with the Expo, 20 tap- with ability to coordinate between various stepped down as artistic Milano 2015, is in charge of the estries from the 16th century departments and must be very familiar with director of Façonnable. design of the location. A run- will travel to Milan’s Royal Palace markdown cadences and strategies. On Saturday, Kearns way show to mark the open- — care of Gucci, the lead spon- confirmed his exit Candidates with strong operational background ing of Silos and the expo will be sor of the exhibition “Prince of and declined further preferred. This position may require relocation. held on April 30, with a celebra- Dreams: The Medici’s Joseph comment. tory event. Tapestries by Pontormo and The Dublin-born men’s .VVK)LULÄ[Z7H`+6,,6, Armani said that he’s Bronzino.” wear designer joined the Send resume to: [email protected] decided to display his clothes, Stretching almost 263 feet, French sportswear firm as well as textile explorations the tapestries have been travel- in September 2013 and and experience, “at the dis- ing from Rome’s Palazzo del Quir- showed three collections, posal of Milan. I thought it could inale, the official residence of the steering Façonnable in be interesting for everybody. In country’s president, to Milan for a more sophisticated SOFTWARE particular, for the young gener- the international event, and are PATTERNS, SAMPLES, direction that caught the ations approaching the fash- due to be moved to Palazzo Vec- attention of international FOR FASHION ion and design worlds. They will chio, the town hall of Florence, to PRODUCTIONS media and landed the be able to find inspirations to their original home — the Sala de’ brand in a range of top INDUSTRY FOR WOMEN, MEN mature new ideas and create Dugento, after the expo. specialty stores. AND CHILDRENS WEAR the companies of the future. The projects marks Gucci’s ERP / Mobile Apps / SEE WHAT’S FIRST Kearns’ exit is the latest further involvement in the pres- signal of turbulence at IN FASHION. ervation of artworks. The show- E-commerce A Full Service Shop To The Trade the Nice-based company. case reunites 20 tapestries from Fine Fast Work 212-869-2699 Last month, managing JOIN MORE THAN 100K+ PEOPLE the 16th century commissioned www.winfashion.com WHO FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM. director Ludovic Le Gour- by Cosimo I de’ Medici to artists rièrec, who had recruited Jacopo Pontormo and Agnolo Kearns, exited the firm, Bronzino that depict the his- said to be in the throes of tory of biblical patriarch Joseph a major reorganization. (Giuseppe Ebreo) — whose alter- Before joining Façon- nate fortunes echoed the Med- nable, Kearns designed icean dynastic saga. Until now, men’s wear for brands the tapestries were displayed including Yves Saint $3.2 million was spent to restore the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. partly at the Palazzo del Quirinale Laurent, Louis Vuitton and in Rome and partly at the Palazzo Alexander McQueen. FASHION. BEAUTY. BUSINESS. May 1: Universal Expo Fondazione Prada Vecchio town hall in Florence. Opens to Public Editorial Calendar The new headquarters of the Gets Under Way in Milan Fondazione Prada will open on QUICK BITES May 9, but previews will be held OThe Universal Expo is returning to Milan after May 2 through 8. Cruise Control almost a century and Italian fashion brands are Designed by OMA and Rem OFrance’s biggest fashion play- ISSUE: May 13 ISSUE: May 20 ISSUE: May 27 ISSUE: June 10 Koolhaas, the new home of the ers have chosen eclectic geog- prepping for the occasion. The event revolves Italian brand’s art foundation raphies for their Cruise collection around the theme of “Feeding the Planet, Energy blends preexisting buildings shows. Chanel will be in Seoul ReCon/Retail Meccas International Trade CFDA Fashion Awards Denim In Depth. and three new ones, and is the on May 4, Nicolas Ghesquière’s Show Calendar. Nominees. Pitti Uomo. Yoox Taps for Life,” and runs from May 1 to Oct. 31. result of the transformation of Louis Vuitton will be in Palm CLOSE April 29 Cavatorta While organizers are trying to hasten works a distillery from the first decade Beach, Fla., on May 6 and Dior is Las Vegas Jewelry London Fashion Week. of the 1900s. Located in Largo set for Los Angeles on May 9. CLOSE May 6 OYoox Group has named on the pavilions at the expo fairgrounds among a Isarco, in the southern part of MATERIALS May 4 & Watch Preview. CLOSE May 27 Enrico Cavatorta to the flurry of controversy about delays, the city itself Milan, the complex covers a total MATERIALS May 11 position of chief financial of 205,200 square feet, of which VF Reports Q1  CLOSE May 20 and corporate officer, as has been cleaning up. One of the best and most 118,800 will be used for exhibition O VF Corp., the largest U.S.- based apparel manufacturer, MATERIALS June 1 the company’s board of successful examples is Milan’s storied shopping activities. directors has approved The building at the entrance will report first-quarter finan- MATERIALS May 18 the proposed merger arcade Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, beautifully will include two spaces: an cial results on the morning of May 1. On average, financial ana- with Net-a-porter Group. restored thanks to works financed by Versace, educational area dedicated to Cavatorta will oversee children and developed with stu- lysts expect earnings of 67 cents administration, finance Prada and Feltrinelli for a total cost of 3 million dents from the École Nationale a diluted share, matching those ISSUE: June 17 ISSUE: June 24 ISSUE: July 15 ISSUE: July 22 and control, corporate Supérieure d’Architecture de of the year-ago period, and rev- euros, or $3.2 million at current exchange. enues of $2.84 billion, above the development and inves- Versailles, and a bar conceived Domestic Trade Show tor relations, legal and The expo will span almost 12 million square by director Wes Anderson that $2.78 billion from last year’s first Berlin Fashion Week New York Fashion Accessories In Focus. quarter, as the firm battles cur- corporate affairs, risk feet. According to its official Web site, 145 re-creates the typical Milan Calendar. Preview. Week: Mens. management and compli- coffee shop atmosphere. rency headwinds in its interna- tional business. Beauty Summit ReCap. CLOSE July 8 ance, as well as general countries are slated to participate and organizers To mark the opening of the Swimwear. services. Beginning May expect 20 million visitors. new Milan headquarters, Robert Men’s Milan Preview. CLOSE June 10 MATERIALS June 13 1, he will also take on the Gober and Thomas Demand will Trade Winds CLOSE July 1 role of director responsi- A number of major industry events are set to create site-specific installations. OAccessories and Intimate CLOSE June 3 MATERIALS June 15 ble for preparing financial take place in Milan to coincide with Expo 2015. Roman Polanski will direct a Apparel Market Weeks, New York. statements. documentary on his films’ inspi- OBarcelona Bridal Week, MATERIALS July 6

—Luisa Zargani rations and launch a festival. Barcelona DGA Images for Rodriguez/Getty E. Alberto by photograph Anderson MATERIALS June 8

238 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM For advertising inquiries, please contact Brittany Mutterer | (646) 356-4711 | [email protected] WWD.COM MARCH 14, 2015 239 FINALE

New York, 1985 When You’re Smiling O The label said Sketchbook, but the spirit was all Marc Jacobs. Thirty years ago, Jacobs’ wit, irreverence and monster talent set the bar sky-high for succeeding generations of young designers. SF724S SHOP FERRAGAMO.COM

240 APRIL 29, 2015 WWD.COM Photograph by GEORGE CHINSEE