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Soba Noodles: a Most Surprising Innovation Soba Noodles: A Most Surprising Innovation Soba Noodles: A Most Surprising Innovation Written by Hishashi Arai Supervised by Yuzo Takenaka Illustration by Kazuko Yoshida Published by SORIQ BOOKS English Translation by Kiyo Matsumoto and Simon Gilbert ‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥‥ TABLE OF CONTENTS PREFACE CHAPTER ONE: Why Soba in New York? Will Soba Suit New Yorkers? Dashi and Umami Soba Around the World The Soba Served at Yushima Haruchika How to Make Noodles What Makes our Soba Special Gluten-Free for Healthy New Yorkers Not Just New Yorkers New Yorkers, Japanese and then the world CHAPTER THREE: The Joy of Dashi It Began with Dashi The Shocking Price of Konbu! From Dashi to Tsuyu Washoku, UNESCO, Dashi and Umami Dashi the Healthfood And Finally We Began Urged Quest for Tsuyu PREFACE Soba is a wonder. Although there is a sniffy saying that ‘nothing grows here except soba’ it is in fact rich in nutrition. Compared to wheat and white rice, soba (buckwheat noodles) is lower in carbohydrate and has more protein, minerals and vitamins. Soba is popular throughout Japan with many aficionados like myself. Except for our neighbour South Korea however it is less well-known overseas. As I delved deeper into the world of soba, the realisation dawned on me that my soba passion isn't shared worldwide. Buckwheat is grown in most parts of Japan. The northern island of Hokkaido produces 30,000 tons and this accounts for half the country’s total. Despite its popularity here however, Japan isn’ t a major buckwheat producer. In fact less than 1% of the world’s 3,830,000 tons of buckwheat is grown in Japan. World production is dominated by Russia and China with 1,520,000 and 1,450,000 tons respectively. As they aren't great soba lovers however most of their crop is consumed as porridge. Four and a half years ago my wife and I opened an udon restaurant in the Yushima area of Tokyo. Udon is one of Japan’s most popular noodle dishes and is made from wheat flour as opposed to buckwheat. We served ozanza udon, which is the kind of udon popular in my homeland of Nagano Prefecture. When my regulars learned that I was from Nagano, an area famous for its soba, they demanded that I add soba to the menu. To my great surprise I found myself developing a soba passion. Little did I know that it would start to take over my life. During my soba explorations I have visited countless well-known restaurants with my wife to try the widest variety of soba styles. All the while I continued to hone my soba-making technique until I finally perfected the art. The great thing about soba is not just the taste. It’s the fact that it is so easy to make. With a soba-making machine anyone can learn to make the tastiest soba. It took me just three years to progress from novice to soba expert. Of course I have the greatest respect for those chefs who insist on making soba by hand. But I came to realise that this simply isn't necessary or even desirable. Surprising as it may seem, I couldn’t escape the conclusion that the very finest towari soba (soba noodles made from 100% buckwheat flour) is machine-made. Even hosomen (thin noodles) are best made by machine. The fact that it doesn't take years and years to learn to make great soba got me thinking big. I realised that there was a vast untapped market and started to think globally. That’s why this book’s working title was ‘How About Opening a Soba Joint in New York?’ It somehow seemed obvious to me that the soba hand would perfectly fit the New York glove. For one thing soba is so healthy and unlike wheat it is gluten-free. These are two elements that New Yorkers love. And it’ s not just the noodles that are the star of the show. The tsuyu (dipping sauce) contains glorious dashi (Japanese soup stock). The rich umami flavour of dashi is what gives Japanese cooking its special magic. I ended up dropping ‘New York’ from the title because I didn't want to distract from my central idea. In fact you might call it a thesis. That in the long history of Japanese noodles, machine- made soba is a profound innovation. It isn’t just quicker and easier than making soba by hand but is truly the key to quality. Even people like me who started as novices can become expert soba makers in a (relatively) short time. This means we can spread the wonder that is soba all around the world. That’s the big picture. The first chapter of this book is ‘Why Soba in New York?’ Actually it’s a roundabout way of telling soba lovers in Japan that soba made by machine is good enough to share worldwide. In the long and noble history of soba, I hope to start a little machine-made ripple and see what it becomes. This book is translated from the original Japanese by my old friend Kiyo Matsumoto. I have known Kiyo for more than two decades and he has translated more than twenty books. Actually he just finished writing his own book so by happy coincidence we are both about to publish at the same time. The finishing touches were added by an Englishman in Japan. Simon Gilbert can be found in the mountains of Kyushu hunting down the region’s most authentic noodles. This book isn't the end. It’s just a waypoint on my journey. Each day for me is another step on the long march to soba perfection. It’s a long march but a happy one. I've found my passion and invite you to share my journey. May 7, 2020 Praying for success in defeating COVID-19 Hisashi Arai CHAPTER ONE: Why Soba in New York? Will Soba Suit New Yorkers? New Yorkers eating soba in New York cooked by the hand of New Yorkers; that’s the dream I have. You can call it wishful thinking but it’s a dream that I’ll doggedly pursue. If it comes true the world will know that New Yorkers have truly taken soba to their hearts. I want to spread the news that soba isn’t just a simple bowl of noodles but something wonderful. I want New Yorkers to be the first evangelists. My acquaintance Tsutomu Akama lived on the West Coast for more than ten years. A foodie at heart, he returned to Japan and opened the A-Pot restaurant in Tokyo. When he was still in the States he would cook for his American colleagues so I turned to him for advice. He gave me some disappointing news: ‘Not a chance that Americans will like fishy soup stock (dashi)’ he told me, ‘meat sits at the centre of their world.’ My heart sank when I imagined my dipping sauce (tsuyu) made out of meat. No wonder tonkotsu (pork bone) ramen is so popular in the States. As I delved deeper I discovered Japan Village in Brooklyn NY. It offers the visitor a variety of Japanese restaurants and grocery stores. The 2018 grand opening was a bustling success but 90% of the visitors were Asian, of whom 90% were Japanese. I guess they pined their comfort food from home. But this isn’t my vision. I want to evangelise authentic soba to New Yorkers rather than consoling my homesick countrymen. There are popular Indian restaurants in Japan staffed by Japanese chefs. I want to replicate this model with soba around the world. I want New Yorkers to feel the passion of noodles made by their New York brethren. As a first step I need to spread the word that making towari (100% buckwheat) hosomen (thin noodles) by machine is an easily mastered skill. Dashi and Umami In stark contrast but with some glee I heard from the writer Sara Aoyama. Sara lives in New York and told me that Japanese cuisine (washoku) is gaining increasing exposure. She shared her belief that New Yorkers do in fact appreciate the taste of dashi or are at least starting to do so. Most soup stocks around the world are made using poultry, beef, or pork simmered with vegetables. Japanese dashi on the other hand uses dried kelp (kombu), dried bonito flakes (katsuo bushi) or dried juvenile anchovies (niboshi). I was delighted to hear from Sara how popular dashi was becoming. Umami is also becoming more understood. Umami is the fifth basic taste in addition to sweetness, sourness, saltiness and bitterness. It was discovered by a Japanese professor and is the flavour at the very heart of dashi. Lectures about umami are held at the Culinary Institute of America (‘the Harvard University of chefs’) and the non-profit organization Umami Information Center has also proselytized in New York. There is even an Umami Burger restaurant chain! In 2017 they expanded from their base in LA into Japan and were greeted with great acclaim. I couldn’t imagine an umami burger so I visited their store. The burger was delicious and I was hooked straight away. It is ironic that the umami taste had spread all the way to America and then rebounded back to Japan. Umami Burger salad Umami Burger outlet Burger options at Umami Burger Soba Around the World Some of Japan’s big name soba restaurants have already tried to expand into the States. Most of them serve hand-made nihachi noodles.
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