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Home , Cellophane noodles, Chikuwa, Japanese noodles, Konjac, Momofuku Ando, Oden

Vol. 32 No. 4 January 2019

Kikkoman’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food

THE JAPANESE TABLE 4 CLOSE-UP : Japanese Mushrooms — Japanese 5 JAPANESE STYLE: Wafu Dressing by Ayao Okumura TASTY TRAVEL: Our 2018 series on has taken a wide-ranging look — at the distinctive histories and traditions of somen, and . 6 With this issue, we conclude with ramen, one of the country’s most MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING: popular noodles, which has fast become a global favorite. Ramen-Style Cellophane with Simmered Ramen — 8 KIKKOMAN TODAY: KIKKOMAN LIVE KITCHEN Kikkoman Opens Fusion Concept Japanese Noodles Ramen

Ramen noodles are made by adding about twenty Chinese in in the Great Kanto Earthquake of alkaline water to that has a which invariably served 1923, portable stalls serving Shina protein content of 9 percent to noodle dishes, including chashao soba proliferated, and the popularity 11.5 percent. Typically, ramen tangmian soup noodles with sliced of the dish was assured. noodles are boiled, drained, added pork, and rousi tangmian soup Far to the north in , to a seasoned soup made from noodles with thin pork strips. Not the Chinese restaurant Takeya meat stock, and served with only Chinese, but Japanese locals opened in the city of in various toppings. patronized these shops, where the 1921, across the street from a Japanese referred to noodle dishes as university. A Chinese chef at the Origins Nankin soba. restaurant concocted a delicious The roots of ramen can be traced In 1910, a retired Japanese version of rousi tangmian that was back to China, whose noodle-eating customs offi cial who had been authentically Chinese and much food culture was introduced in working in Yokohama opened his sought-after by Chinese exchange Japan during the 1860s, when Japan own Chinese restaurant in the students studying at the university. ended its national isolation and area of Tokyo. He hired Whenever a dish was ready, the reopened its ports to the outside Chinese cooks from Nankin-machi, cook would announce Hao le! world. The Chinese method of changed the name of the noodle (“a delicious dish is complete!”). making and cooking noodles dishes from Nankin soba to Shina That le sounded rather like ra to eventually evolved into a unique soba. He added toppings of chashao, the Japanese ear, and it was from Japanese style that became known or, as it eventually came to be this phrase that ra was paired with as “ramen.” called in Japanese, “chashu,” a the Japanese word men, meaning In the late nineteenth century, type of cooked pork, and memma noodles. Takeya’s “ra-men” noodles many Chinese settled in the port of simmered strips of sweet bamboo became tremendously popular, Yokohama—some as shopkeepers, shoots. Some years later, when the setting in motion a fad that swept others as laborers and still others city of Tokyo was reduced to rubble through the entire city of Sapporo. as housekeepers and chefs for Western traders who were active in the city. Eventually, those Chinese immigrants established their own Nankin-machi—Nankin being the Japanese pronunciation of Nanjing. Nankin-machi later evolved into Yokohama’s own unique . In Nankin-machi, restaurants and food stalls popped up to cater to the needs of workers

and shopkeepers; by 1887 there were Pre-cooked and dried ramen noodles Eating at a typical counter 2 From left: ramen; shoyu ramen; ; world’s fi rst instant noodles (1958) and world’s fi rst instant noodles in a cup (1971).

Instant Fame soup fl avor, noodle texture and tonkotsu ramen, the rich pork-bone It was ’s (1910- various toppings. The noodles at -based soup popular in Kyushu. 2007) invention in 1958 of the such ramen shops usually consist And throughout Japan, every locale world’s first instant noodles— of different types of high quality offers up distinct ramen fl avors: pre-cooked and dried ramen fl our that has been skillfully chashu cooked pork is a common noodles sold in a packet—that blended. Ramen noodles vary topping, but regional versions of spawned what would eventually in appearance: they can be thin, ramen often highlight a special local become a global industry. At a medium-thin or thick; some are product, such as chicken, or time when television was just straight, others curly. To make the shellfi sh. With Japan’s seemingly beginning to catch on in Japan, he noodles appear more appetizing, endless variety of unique ramen aired commercials their yellow color is enhanced styles, one can experience and enjoy constantly, familiarizing Japanese by adding kuchinashi gardenia a truly “gourmet ramen” journey, throughout the country with the colorant; but above all, it is the all the way from northern Hokkaido product. In 1966, Ando traveled soup that is the most fascinating down to southernmost Okinawa. to the U.S. to pitch his instant ingredient of ramen. Made with noodles in supermarkets. Local stock of primarily chicken or supermarket staff removed the pork, Japanese cooks add , ramen noodles from the package, dried bonito fl akes, broke them in half and placed dried sardines or other dried fi sh, them in a paper cup, poured in hot and dried or dried , water, and ate them with a fork. all of which release and At that time, very few Americans greatly enhance the fl avor. Some owned noodle bowls or used are made by simmering chopsticks, and it was this episode pork bones for days to produce a that inspired Ando to develop new rich full of collagen and cup-type instant noodles. Today, ash content. These robust soups cover some one hundred billion servings are also popular with visitors from A traditional-style ramen street stall of instant noodles are consumed abroad, and some of Japan’s major Author’s profile annually around the world. ramen chain restaurants have Ayao Okumura, Ph.D. was born in 1937 in Wakayama Prefecture. A former professor at Kobe branches in cities around Yamate University, Dr. Okumura is a specialist in Ultimate Ramen the world. traditional . He is currently Bowls of fresh ramen are enjoyed There are three main ramen part-time professor at City University Graduate School, lecturing on the establishment in countless restaurants and varieties, according to soup base: and structure of Japanese food culture; as owner shops throughout Japan that vie miso ramen, the miso-based soup of cooking studio Douraku-tei, he is known for his to create the “ultimate” gourmet of Hokkaido; shoyu ramen, the authentic reproductions of historic Japanese dishes and menus. His various publications include Nippon ramen recipe. They constantly -based Kanto-style found men shokubunka no 1300 nen (“1,300 years of experiment with combinations of mainly around the Tokyo area; and Japanese noodle food culture,” 2009; revised 2014).

FOOD FORUM January 2019 3 CLOSE-UP JAPAN Traditions and trends in Japanese food culture

Clockwise from top: Bunashimeji, maitake, eryngii, and enoki

Japanese Mushrooms

A wide selection of mushrooms are edible types, it is unwise to pick available in Japan, and they appear in and eat wild mushrooms unless any number of dishes including hot Japanese have long experienced or following the advice pots, sautés, dishes and soups. of a specialist. About two-thirds of Mushrooms can be categorized into included mushrooms the country consists of forested land, artifi cially cultivated varieties and in their diet and the Japanese have welcomed wild mushrooms; in Japan there are wild mushrooms into their diet for estimated to be some 4,000 to 5,000 centuries, including shiitake, which different types of wild mushrooms, and grow on stumps or fallen broad- of these, only about 100 kinds are edible. was adopted in Japan as early as the trees; the delicious maitake; and Mushrooms are largely divided 1600s to grow shiitake mushrooms. matsutake, which grow on the roots of into saprophytic mushrooms, which Currently, some mushrooms including Japanese red pines. With a very limited fi nd nutrition in decayed vegetation; shiitake, enoki, bunashimeji and yield, matsutake are expensive, and mycorrhiza mushrooms, which maitake are cultivated primarily in and are referred to as the “King grow in symbiosis with live tree roots. mushroom beds throughout the year; of Mushrooms.” More affordable Artifi cially cultivated mushrooms are recently, eryngii and other mushrooms matsutake available in Japan are saprophytic. Mushroom cultivation of foreign origin have been raised using imports. All mushrooms contain this method. At present, some 20 a considerable amount of umami. types of mushrooms are cultivated and For example, sun-drying shiitake available here year-round. mushrooms produces guanylic acid, Natural wild mushrooms, on a constituent of umami, making it the other hand, come into season in possible to experience a fl avor that raw Autumn, and this is the time when shiitake do not have. When cooking people enjoy mushroom-picking in with dried shiitake, they are soaked Japan’s woods. Wild mushrooms in water and rehydrated for use in also include poisonous varieties, simmered dishes, while shiitake Rice cooked with mushrooms and because some of these resemble soaking water is used as . 4 JAPANESE STYLE Perspectives on Japanese cuisine

Wafu Dressing Pork shabu-shabu salad with dressing

A wide range of salad dressings are marketed in Japan, but wafu dressings are also excellent as seasonings, enhancing the it was only in the late 1950s that Western-style dressings fl avor of most ingredients and adding richness to a recipe. For debuted here. In the late 1970s, wafu “Japanese-style” dressing instance, dressing adds a unique fl avor to udon or soba was introduced, consisting of mainly soy sauce, vinegar salad sauce. A fl avorful wafu dressing can be used to marinate and oil. This launched a variety of wafu dressings cucumber, cabbage and carrot to make lightly pickled fl avored with traditional ingredients targeting Japanese tastes. (asazuke), while grated radish dressing Today’s wafu dressing varieties include shiso (perilla leaf), might accompany shabu-shabu . Wafu dressings are sesame, citrus, grated , or grated daikon Japanese versatile in meat-based recipes as well. Marinate any meat in radish—most of which are added to a fundamental base of a wafu dressing, and its oil helps the fl avor to gently penetrate soy sauce, vinegar and vegetable oil. Good not only on , the meat, while the vinegar tenderizes the meat.

Wafu dressings are versatile enough to use as seasonings and in marinades. Some examples include, from left: Grated ; Japanese long onion and salt; yuzu citrus and miso; onion; shiso and grated daikon; grated ginger; sesame;

TASTY TRAVEL Shizuoka Oden

Shizuoka oden is a specialty hot pot from Shizuoka City in Shizuoka Prefecture. Typical oden broth is made with kombu or katsuobushi dried bonito flakes, Shizuoka, Shizuoka Prefecture but Shizuoka oden’s much darker broth involves simmered tendon and soy sauce. Its warming ingredients, served on skewers, include beef tendon, , daikon, , kombu and tube- shaped . But this oden is most famous for its kuro hampen, or “black hampen,” a dark-colored paste of minced sardines molded into oval shapes. The dish is garnished with and finely ground , along with a dollop of Japanese . Shizuoka oden was traditionally eaten at casual street stalls, but nowadays, enthusiastic oden-lovers can enjoy Shizuoka oden in various restaurants and shops Shizuoka Oden throughout the city.

FOOD FORUM January 2019 5 Soup seasoning used by ramen shops consists mainly of reduced RAMEN-STYLE CELLOPHANE simmering liquid from cooking pork. This is ladled into individual WITH ramen bowls, followed by clear soup. The character of ramen soup SIMMERED PORK lies in its simple aroma and fl avor, created not with spices, but by adding only green or long and ginger to the simmering liquid.

Cut pork into two or three pieces along the grain of the muscle fi bers. Pierce the meat 1lightly with a fork.

Warm a small amount of oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Sear the meat until 2golden brown. Place the seared meat in a stock pot* and pour in the simmering liquid ingredients to just Serves 4-5 314 kcal Protein 6.3 g Fat 7.4 g 3cover the pork; add extra water if needed. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to (per serving) low or lower-medium heat, maintaining a steady simmer. After 3-4 minutes, turn the pork • Pork butt, 700-800 g / approx. 1.5 lb. over. Cover with a drop-lid or parchment paper and continue cooking for 20 more minutes, • Pure or vegetable oil turning once or twice. If the meat can be pierced easily with a skewer or bamboo stick, it is Simmering liquid for cooking pork done. Turn off heat. Remove meat from pot, strain liquid** then boil it down to about half. • 6 T Kikkoman Soy Sauce Return pork to the reduction, set aside to steep for 2-3 hours; remove and cut the meat into • 500 ml / 2 C water, plus more if needed • 1 T light brown sugar about 0.5 cm- / 0.2 in.-thick slices; set aside.*** • 1 knob ginger with skin (20 g / 0.7 oz.), cut in thin slices Prepare cellophane noodles as per package instructions. • 2-3 green onions 4 • 50-100 g / 1.5-3.5 oz. potato or cellophane noodles; reduce or increase amount depending on To make the ramen-style soup, boil water and add chicken stock granules. Add 4 T of the preference 5reduced pork simmering liquid or more if desired. Ramen-style soup • 1000 ml / 4 C water In individual serving bowls, place desired amount of noodles and sliced pork, then ladle • 1 ½ T Japanese Tori-Gara chicken 6soup over both. For a stronger ramen fl avor, add more of the reduction. with soup stock granules or powder • 4 T or more reduced simmering liquid green onion to serve. from cooked pork • Green onions, cut slantwise, 5 cm / 2 in. * Pot should be just the right size to fit the meat. for garnish ** To remove fat from simmering liquid, cool it in refrigerator, then remove the congealed fat. *** Consider using any remaining simmered pork in or other recipes. Recipe by Michiko Yamamoto

1 C (U.S. cup) = approx. 240 ml; 1 T = 15 ml; 1 t = 5 ml

6 RAMEN SALAD

Prepare noodles as per package instructions. Drain and rinse the noodles with running 1water, and then drain again. Cut the noodles into 7-8 cm / 2.5-3 in. lengths. Set aside.

Tear the lettuce into bite-sized pieces. Cut the cherry tomatoes in half. Pick off the Ramen noodles 2tender portions of the watercress and coriander. Tear the imitation crab sticks into bite-sized pieces. Serves 4 181 kcal Protein 4.9 g Fat 8.0 g Mix the dressing ingredients together. (per serving) 3 • 120 g / 4 oz. fresh ramen noodles* • 4 lettuce • 4 cherry tomatoes Place the cooked noodles in a serving bowl. Add the lettuce, tomatoes, watercress, • 1/2 bunch watercress coriander and imitation crabmeat. • 4 coriander sprigs 4 • 4 sticks imitation crabmeat Just before serving, pour desired amount of the dressing over the salad. Dressing • 2 T 5 • 1 ½ T surigoma ground white sesame • 1/2 T granulated sugar * If unavailable, thin udon noodles or may be substituted. • 2 t • 2 T Kikkoman Soy Sauce • 1 T vinegar Recipe by Kikkoman Corporation • 4 T water

FOOD FORUM January 2019 7 KIKKOMAN LIVE KITCHEN TOKYO Kikkoman Opens Fusion Concept Restaurant

From left: KIKKOMAN LIVE KITCHEN TOKYO; Gift Shop; Cafe & Bar

One of Kikkoman Corporation’s At LIVE KITCHEN, diners discuss recipes and demonstrate business principles is “To promote experience the essence of this cooking techniques on the the international exchange of international exchange of food kitchen stage. The restaurant uses food culture,” and we have been culture with all fi ve senses. exceptional and distinctive food actively engaging in this practice “Cooking Live” events are held on a ingredients, thanks to partnerships for more than half a century. As special kitchen stage, providing the with regional municipalities part of this ongoing initiative, the opportunity to observe at fi rst hand throughout Japan and Tokyo-based company unveiled its KIKKOMAN the expertise and manual dexterity foreign embassies. There is also LIVE KITCHEN TOKYO concept of professional chefs. As these chefs an adjoining Gift Shop and the restaurant in Tokyo’s Yurakucho comment on their real-time food Cafe & Bar where, if they prefer district on November 1, 2018. preparations, diners can enjoy dishes not to visit the restaurant, visitors “Fusion” is the key concept at LIVE while listening and learning how to may savor wines provided by the KITCHEN. In the process of expanding enhance the unique qualities of the Kikkoman Group company, Manns the global soy sauce market, Kikkoman food itself. Wines, as well as limited edition Soy Sauce has been introduced into Each month, two or three Japanese . many diverse food cultures, generating famous guest chefs from different Kikkoman hopes that as many countless new and delicious fl avors; in genres collaborate to create new visitors as possible will experience fact, Kikkoman has always intended for dishes that will be available this memorable “international people to use its soy sauce in their daily only at LIVE KITCHEN. The exchange of food culture” and enjoy lives and fuse it with ingredients and menu changes monthly, and the a new world of delicious flavors that dishes specifi c to their own countries restaurant occasionally holds can be found only at KIKKOMAN and regions. Special Days where the guest chefs LIVE KITCHEN TOKYO.

KIKKOMAN LIVE KITCHEN TOKYO For Reservations www.kikkoman-livekitchen-tokyo.com/en/index.html

FOOD FORUM is a quarterly newsletter published by Kikkoman Corporation, International Operations Division, 2-1-1 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-8428, Japan / Production: Cosmo Public Relations Corporation / Editor: Marybeth Stock / Proofreader: Joanna Ohmori / Special Advisors: Isao Kumakura, Michiko Yamamoto / Contributor: Ayao Okumura / Art Director: Eiko Nishida / Photo Credits: PIXTA (p. 1, p. 2 except bottom left, p. 3 top left, p. 4, p. 5 top, p. 5 bottom) / Yoshitaka Matsumoto (p. 2 bottom left, p. 5 center, pp. 6-7) / HOLDINGS CO., LTD. (p. 3 top right) / Special thanks to NISSIN FOODS HOLDINGS CO., LTD. / Printing: Otowa Printing ©2018 by Kikkoman Corporation. All rights reserved. Requests to reprint articles or excerpts should be sent to the publisher. www.kikkoman.com

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