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All about the
BEEFLearn how hamburgers — the most popular meal of the masses — are also fulfilling gourmet criteria
Look inside for dining ideas, profiles and a guide of restaurant listings www.dmcityview.com/relish FALL | 2011 1 COMING DECEMBER 1 - Jethro’s Jambalaya – your Waukee neighborhood sports bar!
wwww.jethrosdesmoines.comw 303 LOCUST Des Moines 244.5686 3100 FOREST AVENUE 279.3300 www.splash-seafood.com NOW WORLD FAMOUS! $VVHHQRQWKH7UDYHO&KDQQHO¶VMan vs Food FISH FLOWN IN FRESH (6316SRUWV1DWLRQDO)DQZLFK5XQQHU8S DAILY FROM HAWAII )HDWXUHGLQ$PHULFD¶V%HVW%%45HVWDXUDQWV )DYRULWH%%4RI%HWWHU+RPHVDQG*DUGHQV Magazine Book our new “Piranha Room” 0DQOLHVW5HVWDXUDQWLQWKH0LGZHVW for your private party or business meetings – 0HQ¶V+HDOWK Magazine $VVHHQRQ7UDYHO&KDQQHO¶V)RRG3DUDGLVH 4 private dining areas with seating from 10–60 people 9RWHGE\&LW\YLHZ readers: %HVW%%4%HVW:LQJV %HVW6SRUWV%DU
Now in Altoona. Still at Drake.
Same Jethro’s Menu plus Jake’s Slow Smoked Steaks! No Australian or Texan spoken here. These steakssteak are corn fed, Iowa raised, USDA Choice meat, hickory smoked over a campfire and broiled to pperfection in our 1,600 degree Jethro n’ Jake's fire machine – the heat seals in the juices and flavors. All our steaks are seasoned with black pepper, salt and finished with a touch of smoked garlic butter. 2601 ADVENTURELAND DRIVE s Altoona s 957.9727 www.jethrosdesmoines.com
2 FALL | 2011 www.dmcityview.com/relish www.dmcityview.com/relish FALL | 2011 3 from the EDITOR RELISH Iowa’s hamburger culture
owa is the long-time home to the most eclectic burger culture in America. Almost every meat- I eating Iowan has a special love for one unique hamburger or another. “Taverns,” “Tastees,” “Char- lie Boys,” “Rossburgers,” “Boozies,” “Canteens,” “Gunderburger’s,” “Wally’s” and “Two mits” are all long-time legends in one part of the state or an- other while remaining pretty much unknown outside that region. Maid-Rite, on the other hand, took their Iowa brand national. In the last couple years, Des Moines’ burger cul- ture has taken off, too. Several independent, burger- themed restaurants have opened, and local burgers have found national fame. Our cover story tells how the current surge in burger love both resembles, and differs from, that of the 1930s — the era when burg- ers became America’s favorite dish. Elsewhere in this issue, we visit with a cattleman who makes burger love possible and feature local chefs, favorite dishes and beverages from restau- er Than G rants where we love to eat, with or without burg- ett ood ers. Of course, The Dish is back, too, reviewing three B ” months of noteworthy and notorious news in from “ the wonderful world of food and hospitality. RELISH
— Jim Duncan [email protected], Twitter.com/foodude
Publisher: Shane Goodman Address: 414 61st Street Editor: Jim Duncan Des Moines, IA, 50312 Contributors: Jared Curtis Website: www.dmcityview.com/relish Amber Williams E-mail: [email protected] SERVING THE BEST BURGER TO Sales mgr: Ashley Roberts Account executives: Laura Borlabi RELISH magazine is a quarterly publication of Big CENTRAL IOWA FOR 21 YEARS! Christi Adams Green Umbrella Media, Inc., an Iowa corporation. Design mgr: Celeste Jones Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without 1105 - 73rd Street Graphic designers: Karen Ericson permission of the publisher. Copies of past issues, as 1500 E Euclid Avenue Lindy Vorrie available, may be purchased for $3 each (plus ship- 4820 SE 14th Street Business mgr: Brent Antisdel ping if required). Distribution: Brent Antisdel 4565 - 86th Street, Urbandale Phone: 515.953.4822 2205 SE Delaware Avenue, Ankeny Fax: 515.953.1394 3635 - 8th Street SW, Altoona 1112 South Duff, Ames
4 FALL | 2011 www.dmcityview.com/relish the CONTENTS RELISH YOUR HOME FOR THE HAWKS! 6 the DRINK WEDNESDAY Trivia Night starting at 8pm
8 the APPETIZER HAPPY HOUR $2 domestic 7 DAYS A WEEK big girl drafts 2:30–7:30pm $3 import and craft drafts FREE PING PONG! the 10 ENTREE Bring in this ad and get
12 the DESSERT 50% off QUINTON’S COMBO with the purchase of a Quinton’s Combo. Expires 1/15/12 506 E. GRAND AVENUE IN THE EAST VILLAGE 244-6624 13 the PRODUCER s ALL YOU CAN EAT RIBS EVERY MONDAY 14 the CHEF
15 the FACES
CHECK OUT OUR JUICY NEW HALF & HALF BURGER IOWA BACON & STEAK GROUND TOGETHER! OPEN MONDAY–SATURDAY 11AM–CLOSE t OPEN FOR 16 the DISH SUNDAY BRUNCH 9AM–2PM LUNCH MONDAY–SATURDAY STARTING AT 11AM 20 the FEATURE $2 DOMESTICS 2712 Beaver Avenue WE CATER 515.279.2067 24 the PLACES ANY EVENT! www.tallysbeaverdale.com
www.dmcityview.com/relish FALL | 2011 5 the DRINK RELISH The ‘game day brew’
By Amber Williams
eef and beer. Are there any two things that go better together? They’re almost the same word even. Just as it takes Zen-like patience to properly cook the perfect Bburger or steak, the same is true to brew the ultimate ale to complement the meat, according to head brewer at Madhouse Brewing Company, Mason Groben, who recommends the Pastime Pale Ale in particular. “It’s got a real nice bitterness and goes well with the juiciness of beef — especially grilled beef,” Groben says. “And it’s fun to grill when you have a beer in your hand. So the ZKROHH[SHULHQFHJRHVSHUIHFWDQGWKHÀDYRUVGRWRR´ 7KH3DVWLPH3DOH$OHZDVRQHRI*UREHQ¶V¿UVWEHHUFUHDWLRQV at Madhouse, which is frothing over into its third year in Des Moines. He says it was made as a game day brew. So the fact that it’s available on tap at both the Iowa Cubs stadium and WKH'HV0RLQHV%XFFDQHHUVDUHQDLVRQO\¿WWLQJ “Hoppy styles of pale ale are really popular right now,” he VD\V³,W¶VJRWDQLFHFDUDPHOEDVHDQGDUHDOKRSS\¿QLVK² ULFKHQRXJKÀDYRUVWKDWEDODQFHRXWWKHÀDYRUVRIWKHEHHI:H XVHTXDOLW\&HQWHQQLDODQG&DVFDGHKRSVWRJLYHLWDORWRIÀDYRU and aroma.” And there we have yet another thing beer and beef share in common. Whether foaming to the brim of a glass Pastime Pale Ale, and other Madhouse RQGUDIWRUSRSSLQJWKHWRSIRUWKH¿UVWWLPHWREUHDWKH beers, are sold in grocery stores the vapor escaping from the bottle, beer is aromatic LQGHHGDQHQWLFLQJOXUHWRD¿QHUHGPHDWPHDO throughout Des Moines and the state, While you’re waiting for your steak or burger, or visit the brewery at 2400 George nothing primes the palate quite like a perfectly bitter Flagg Parkway in Des Moines. beer. RELISH
,QJHUVROO$YHZZZVDNDULVXVKLORXQJHFRP 0) DPSP SP6DW SP )($785,1*7+(&,7<·6%(670$57,1,6$1'-$3$1(6(&8,6,1(
6 FALL | 2011 www.dmcityview.com/relish Join us for our annual Holiday Wine Show to sample more than 100 wines from around the world. Saturday, November 5 11am-3pm Winery representatives will be on hand. $10 at the door Book your holiday celebrations with Sbrocco. Join us for dinner in the wine shop for a unique atmosphere or host your evening in the Chef’s Cellar, our private dining area. Chef Meek’s signature dishes, the distinctive setting & superb service are sure to wow your guests! award winning chef andrew meek "no chef in Iowa understands seafood better than Andrew Meek." – jim duncan "top 100 farm to table chef" – Gourmet magazine Anthony Bourdain golden clog award nominee James Beard ‘Best of the Midwest’ Nominee four star restaurant – datebook 208 court avenue sbroccowine.com downtown ~ 282.3663 [food]
www.dmcityview.com/relish FALL | 2011 7 the APPETIZER RELISH Burnt ends = ‘BBQ bliss’ By Jared Curtis lot of people might hear the barbeque term Burnt Ends and think of the burnt ends off a hunk of meat. AThey would be wrong. Burnt Ends are a specialty BBQ treat created by cooking the SRLQW KDOI RI D EULVNHW ORQJHU WKDQ WKH ÀDW half, which is normally used for sliced brisket. Some chefs split the two in half before the cooking process, while others cook it all, then re-season the point side, and cook it some more. The point is then chopped into bite- size cubes that melt in your mouth. “A lot of people think that burnt ends are just the end scraps of meat. Although some places serve it like that, the Kansas City way — where it originated — was to cube Try Burnt Ends at the point meat after it cooked longer,” says Shad Kirton, owner of Smokey D’s. “The point has a higher Smokey D’s and marbling/fat content, so to render that down you need to cook it at a Uncle Wendell’s. higher temperature.” Although there are many BBQ restaurants in town, only a few serve burnt ends. “Burnt ends are a barbeque delicacy,” Kirton says. “They can be time consuming, so a lot of places don’t do them, or don’t do them right. Some people stay away because of the extra cooking process, EXWWKH\DUHH[WUHPHO\WHQGHUDQGÀDYRUIXOLIGRQHULJKW´ Kirton says the misconception of what it is keeps people from trying it. “A lot of people don’t realize what they are,” he said. “But once they try them, they really enjoy them. Our brisket is our No. 1 seller, but as more people learn about burnt ends, the more popular they’ve become.” When Smokey D’s opened, burnt ends were a no-brainer. “When Darren (Warth) and I started, there was no question whether or not we were doing burnt ends,” he says. “When they’re done right, they are a taste of barbeque bliss.” RELISH
DAILY authentic hibachi grill and sushi FOOD & DRINK off SPECIALS $5.00any purchase of $30 or more TOKYO TOKYO STEAKHOUSE Gift One coupon per party. Not valid with any other certificates STEAKHOUSE offers, coupons, gift certificate purchases make or on holidays. Expires 12/105/11. great LUNCH SPECIALS Mon–Sat 11am–2:30pm gifts! Starting at $7.50 $10.00 off Find us on any purchase of 113 SE Delaware Avenue s Ankeny s 963-8898 $60 or more TOKYO STEAKHOUSE www.tokyosteakhouseankenyia.com One coupon per party. Not valid with any other offers, coupons, gift certificate purchases Monday–Thursday 11am–2:30pm & 4:30pm–10pm s Friday & Saturday 11am–2:30pm & 4:30pm–10:30pm s Sunday Noon–10pm or on holidays. Expires 12/105/11.
8 FALL | 2011 www.dmcityview.com/relish the RECIPES RELISH 0DSOH%DFRQ%HHU%XUJHU 0XI¿Q6W\OH&KHHVHEXUJHU Pizza
Ingredients 1 pound ground beef (95% lean) Ingredients 1/4 cup beer (QJOLVKPXI¿QVVSOLW 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 3/4 pound ground beef (95% lean) 4 whole wheat hamburger buns 1 cup pasta sauce, any variety 4 slices 25% reduced-fat Cheddar cheese 1/2 cup diced red bell pepper 4 extra thick slices maplewood smoked bacon, cut in half, 1/4 cup diced onion cooked crisp 1 tablespoon dried Italian seasoning 1/4 teaspoon salt Directions 1/2 cup shredded reduced-fat Cheddar cheese Combine ground beef, beer and Worcestershire sauce in 1/4 cup shredded low-moisture part skim mozzarella medium bowl, mixing lightly but thoroughly. Lightly shape cheese into four 1/2-inch thick patties. Place patties on grid over medium, ash-covered coals. Directions +HDWRYHQWR)3ODFH(QJOLVKPXI¿QKDOYHVRQWZR Grill, uncovered, 8 to 10 minutes (over medium heat on baking sheets; bake 5 minutes. preheated gas grill 7 to 9 minutes) to medium (160ºF) Meanwhile, brown ground beef in large nonstick skillet doneness. About 2 minutes before burgers are done, over medium heat 8 to 10 minutes, breaking beef into place buns, cut sides down, on grid. Grill until lightly small crumbles, stirring occasionally. Add pasta sauce, toasted. During last minute of grilling, top each burger bell pepper, onion, Italian seasoning and salt; continue with cheese. Place burgers on bottom of buns; top with cooking 5 minutes or until vegetables are crisp-tender, bacon slices. Close sandwiches. stirring occasionally. 7RSHDFKPXI¿QKDOIZLWKFXSEHHIPL[WXUHDQG Makes: 4 servings tablespoon combined cheeses. Bake 5 to 7 minutes or Time: 27 minutes until cheese is melted.
Nutrition information per serving: 510 calories; 24 g fat (9 g saturated Makes: 6 servings. fat; 10 g monounsaturated fat); 110 mg cholesterol; 1301 mg sodium; 25 g FDUERK\GUDWH J¿EHU JSURWHLQ PJQLDFLQ PJYLWDPLQ% 2.7 mcg vitamin B12; 4.5 mg iron; 65.8 mcg selenium; 8.1 mg zinc; 132.2 Nutrition information per serving: 283 calories; 8 g fat (3 g saturated mg choline. This recipe is an excellent source of protein, niacin, vitamin B6, fat; 2 g monounsaturated fat); 42 mg cholesterol; 670 mg sodium; 31 g YLWDPLQ%LURQVHOHQLXP]LQFDQGFKROLQH DQGDJRRGVRXUFHRI¿EHU FDUERK\GUDWH J¿EHU JSURWHLQ PJQLDFLQ PJYLWDPLQ% 1.3 mcg vitamin B12; 3.2 mg iron; 11.2 mcg selenium; 3.8 mg zinc; 42.8 mg choline. This recipe is an excellent source of, protein, niacin, vitamin %DQG]LQF DQGDJRRGVRXUFHRI¿EHUYLWDPLQ%LURQDQGVHOHQLXP
www.dmcityview.com/relish FALL | 2011 9 the ENTREE RELISH Flat Iron Steak By Jared Curtis
s most carnivores know, there are numerous cuts of steak that can be enjoyed. From rib eyes to T-bones Ato sirloin, there is a cut for everyone’s taste. But RQHFXWWKHÀDWLURQVWHDNLVJDLQLQJSRSXODULW\DQGKDV become a growing hit throughout the metro, popping up in both restaurants and butcher shops. ³,W¶V GH¿QLWHO\ SLFNLQJ XS LQ SRSXODULW\´ VD\V -HII Snowgren, chef at AJ’s Steakhouse, which features the cut on Wednesday nights for $19.95. “People are HQMR\LQJLWVÀDYRUDQGKRZWHQGHULWLV,WUHDOO\LVDJRRG cut of meat.” Known as the “Butlers’ Steak” in the United Kingdom and the “Oyster Blade Steak” in Austrilia and New Zealand, WKH ÀDW LURQ VWHDN FRPHV IURP WKH FRZ¶V VKRXOGHU DQG is considered the second most tender cut (after the Find Flat Iron Steaks at AJ’s tenderloin) in the North American Meat Processor meat Steakhouse, The Club Car Restaurant buyer’s guide. and Lounge, Bach Catering at ³,W¶VFORVHWRWKHÀDYRURIDWRSVLUORLQDQGWHQGHUDV The Keg Stand and Court Avenue D¿OHW´6QRZJUHQVD\V³,I\RXOLNHWRSVLUORLQ\RX¶OOOLNH Restaurant and Brewing Company. WKH ÀDW LURQ VWHDN $QG ZH WRS RXUV ZLWK D FRPSRXQG herb butter that compliments it well.” The steak has stayed out the spotlight in years past, as butchers will only get two to four steaks per head, leaving them with few to display. But just because it’s new doesn’t mean it’s bad. “I would say it’s juicier than a top sirloin, and it’s a leaner cut. So if you don’t like a fatty steak, this would be the steak for you,” Snowgren says. “Plus, it’s more affordable than a New York Strip but just as good.” 7KHÀDWLURQLVYHUVDWLOHWDNHVWRPDULQDGHH[WUHPHO\ZHOOLVWHQGHUFDQEHFRRNHGLQDYDULHW\RIZD\V and is affordable. So what’s not to like? “We started serving it as a special, and now it’s available on the menu all the time,” Snowgren says. “It’s DIXOOÀDYRUHGFXWWKDWLVJDLQLQJSRSXODULW\DQGFXVWRPHUVDUHWU\LQJLWPRUHDQGPRUHHDFKGD\´RELISH
Serving a Fusion of Mexican and Italian Cuisine DINE IN s CARRY OUT s CATERING Bring in this ad and get FREE CHIPS AND SALSA! (limit one per table) 225 - 5th Street in Valley Junction www.elchismedsm.com s 255.5756 Tuesday–Saturday: 11am–10pm s Sunday: 10:30am–3:30pm (Brunch only) Closed Monday and every day from 3–4:30pm
10 FALL | 2011 www.dmcityview.com/relish the RECIPES RELISH 6SLF\&KHHVHEXUJHU6OLGHUV
2677 – 86th St. 7ESTMARK 0LAZA )) s 5RBANDALE ,5.#( 4UEn &RI 1AMnPM Ingredients $)..%2 4UEn&RI nPM AND 3UNn-ON nPM 1 pound ground beef (96% lean) 9 small whole wheat hamburger buns, split, divided 1 clove garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon ground chipotle chili powder 10% OFF 2 slices pepper Jack cheese, cut in quarters LUNCH 2010 Toppings -UST PRESENT COUPON Barbecue sauce, lettuce, tomato slices, pickles (optional) ,IMIT ONE PER CUSTOMER %XPIRES
Directions Tear one hamburger bun into pieces. Place in food processor or blender container. Cover; pulse on and off to IRUP¿QHFUXPEV Combine bread crumbs, beef, garlic and chili powder in medium bowl, mixing lightly but thoroughly. Lightly shape into eight 1/2-inch thick mini patties. Place patties on grill over medium, ash-covered coals. Grill, covered, 8 to 9 minutes (over medium heat on preheated gas grill, 9 to 10 minutes) until instant-read thermometer inserted horizontally into center registers 160°F, turning occasionally. Evenly top with cheese during last minute of grilling. Place burgers on bottoms of remaining eight buns. Top with desired toppings. Close sandwiches.
&RRN¶V7LS One-half teaspoon chili powder may be substituted for chipotle chili powder. Cooking times are for fresh or thoroughly thawed ground beef. Color is not a reliable indicator of ground beef doneness. RELISH
Time: 25 to 30 minutes Makes: 8 sliders
Nutrition information per serving: 201 calories; 6 g fat (3 g saturated fat; 0 g monounsaturated fat); 40 mg cholesterol; 266 mg sodium; 21 g FDUERK\GUDWH J¿EHU JSURWHLQ PJQLDFLQ PJYLWDPLQ% 1.1 mcg vitamin B12; 2.3 mg iron; 28.8 mcg selenium; 3.4 mg zinc; 50.8 mg choline.This recipe is an excellent source of protein, niacin, selenium DQG]LQF DQGDJRRGVRXUFHRI¿EHUYLWDPLQ%YLWDPLQ%DQGLURQ www.dmcityview.com/relish FALL | 2011 11 the DESSERT RELISH µ*HW\RXU¿[¶ZLWKGHHSIULHGFKHUU\SLH
By Amber Williams
ometimes, especially when it comes to dessert, you’ve got to treat yourself. Nowadays, health is at the forefront of our S consciousness. Grocery stores devote an entire isle to organic health foods, and many restaurants have a spot carved out on the menu for healthier choices. Even fast food restaurants are offering such alternatives. Whether or not high crust sous chefs care to admit it, fast food chains, such as McDonald’s, have developed a fair amount of authority on the subject of burgers. But Executive Chefs George Formaro and Tom McKern give credit where it’s due. When thinking up the perfect dessert to complement their extensive burger menu at the new Zombie Burger restaurant downtown, their minds wandered back in time — to the 1980s, when McDonald’s served deep fried pies. Zombie Burger brought “We spent all summer developing recipes for Zombie Burger, back the deep fried cherry and what could be better than fried pie?” McKern says. “We set pie, served a la mode. out to create the original McDonald’s fried pied, and I think we exceeded those expectations. This is one of the things we knew we wanted and could do.” McKern says it’s about a four-hour process just getting the dough ready (which already sets it apart from the fast food inspiration), but a quick drop into the fryer, and the pie is ready to be served a la mode. “It’s a really sweet dessert, and it works really well to cap off the salty, savory burger,” McKern says. McKern says, compared to McDonald’s version, they use all fresh ingredients, so nothing — not even WKHFKHUU\¿OOLQJ²³VWDUWVRXWLQDEDUUHODQGJHWVVODSSHGLQWRGRXJK´ “The crust is a variation of traditional pie dough crust, but it’s better set to work out of a fryer,” he says. “We add a couple of ingredients to help the crust blister and bubble up, which gives it a better crunch.” McKern admits, it’s not the healthiest item on the menu, but served up in a small portion, “you’ll get \RXUGHVVHUW¿[IURPLW´RELISH
by popular demand! now open 7 days a week! saturday 11am–4pm brunch sunday 10am–3pm ENJOY THE FAMOUS SALAD BAR John Nick at John & Nick’s it’s bigger and better with over 60 fresh homemade items. the best part is the salad bar comes with your meal! enjoy black angus steaks, great selection of incredible seafood, chops, pasta and our house specialty: prime rib! family-friendly prices! 15970 Hickman Road Clive 987.1151 just 3 miles west of i-35 on Hickman www.johnandnicks.com
12 FALL | 2011 www.dmcityview.com/relish the PRODUCER RELISH Rowes are ‘Good Farm Neighbors’ in cattle industry
By Amber Williams
inging to your house plants has been said to make S them grow stronger. So, naturally, the same would be true of all living things. When raised for a purpose, such as for harvest, growing a better product is good for all. Justin Rowe doesn’t sing to his cattle, but it’s that same idea of loving care that he and his wife, Corinne, have taken with their 100- head beef herd north of Dallas Center. $V D ¿IWKJHQHUDWLRQ IDUPHU LQ The Rowe family received the Wergin Good Farm Neighbor Award in 2008, nominated by a neighbor. From left to right: Glenn Rowe holds recent years Justin has implemented baby Ben; Corinne Rowe; Justin Rowe; Iowa Secretary of Agriculture new techniques forwarding the idea Bill Northey; Tanner Rowe; and Laura Rowe holds little Cecelia on Justin that a happy herd leads to a hearty and Corinne’s Dallas Center cattle farm. harvest. For example, he explains how he uses rotation grazing allowing the herd to feed from all grass varieties the pasture has to offer. ³,W¶VDPRUHHI¿FLHQWXVHRIWKHJURXQGDQGZH¶YHLQFUHDVHGJUD]LQJFDSDFLW\E\SHUFHQWVLQFHZH¶YH done it that way,” he says. “It also yields more plant diversity and makes the ground healthier,” which, in turn, yields healthier animals. Justin also pasture weans all the calves, which is not a common practice in Iowa because of the extra time and effort it involves, he says. This process allows the calves to graze right next to their mothers, separated by a fence. “In my opinion, it’s a better practice because it lowers the stress on the cow and calf both, and I’ve had a lot of success with it,” he says. “I like going out and seeing my cows grazing on green grass. It makes me feel at ease. I can just feel myself unwind. If you do something you like, it’s not a job.” Make no mistake, though, raising cattle is a big job that takes a lot of work and dedication. Every day KHDQG&RULQQHWDNHWKHLUWRGGOHUDJHGVRQOLWWOH&KDUOLH²¿WWHGLQKDQGPHGRZQFRZER\ERRWVEOXH jeans and a John Deere onesie — out to the pasture to tend to the herd. Together, along with Justin’s brother from down the road, Tanner Rowe, the family continues the tradition of good stewardship, which earned them the Wergin Good Farm Neighbor Award in 2008. RELISH Mouthwatering smoked meats done the old-fashioned way! ,QGLDQROD$YHQXH'HV0RLQHV ZZZÀQGOD\VEETFRP
www.dmcityview.com/relish FALL | 2011 13 the CHEF RELISH Dominic Iannarelli DIRECTOR OF RESTAURANTS JETHRO’S BBQ & SPLASH SEAFOOD; EXECUTIVE CHEF SPLASH SEAFOOD
By Jared Curtis
What’s your favorite food? Why does the steak work so Q Q well with this process? I really enjoy porterhouses. Anytime I’m A at a steak house, I like to get one and We put a lot of development treat myself. A into them, and after numerous taste tests, we knew we found What is your favorite beef dish Q to prepare at work? what we were looking for. It RIIHUVDFRQVLVWHQWÀDYRUDQG WUDSVWKHHQWLUHÀDYRULQVLGH I like to braise meats, the steak. Our prime rib has A and short ribs lend also been getting great themselves well praise. to that style of cooking. It’s a What do you do when nice, slow cook Q you’re not cooking? that builds the ÀDYRU
Where do you I like hanging out and Q like to eat when A cooking with friends, as not at work? well as doing some home improvement, taking my dog for a walk and just I like to go to Sakari, and relaxing. A Centro has great pizza. What’s the best cooking tip Is there a seasonal ingredi Q you can share with readers? Q ent you like working with?
We use whatever we can, but Be patient, and don’t try to A right now I’m really enjoy- A rush anything. And when ing butternut squash. It’s very you’re cooking beef, keep it low versatile, and the squash from and slow. Rinehart Family Farm is great. I also like using the garlic scapes Why should patrons visit from Cleverley Farms. Q your restaurants?
Where did the idea of slow Q smoking steaks at Jethro’s & We offer big portions, wonder- Jake’s come from? A ful values and the best cuts of beef around. And we’re really At Jethro’s, we’re all about the excited to expand our cajun A smoke and offer that camp- menu at our new store opening ¿UHWKHPHZLWKWKHFRZER\ soon in Waukee. RELISH plates and big cuts of meat. We wanted a controlled smoke with a FRQVLVWHQWÀDYRUDQGIRXQGWKDWLQWKH slow-smoking process. 14 FALL | 2011 www.dmcityview.com/relish the FACES RELISH
Chen Huang 1 Tokyo Steakhouse
Sushil 2 Namaste 3 Ormsin “Mao” Heineman 1 2 3 King & I
Jesus Ojeda 4 El Chisme
Troy Trostel 5 Trostel’s Greenbriar
Robert Sanda 4 5 6 6 Tally’s
Timothy Kommavongsa 7 Sakari Sushi
Dennis Findlay 8 Findlay’s BBQ
Andrew Meek 9 Sbrocco 7 8 9
Buy 1 entree, Namaste India get 2nd entree FREE Limit 1 coupon per table. Not valid with any other offer. Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday only. .LQJ I Authentic North & South DINE IN ONLY Coupon required. Expires 1/15/12. 7KDL &XLVLQH Indian Cuisine $ Dinner 5 off for 2 Open 7 days a week for LUNCH & DINNER! LUNCH BUFFET Limit 1 coupon per table. Not valid with any other offer. Tuesday–Sunday Minimum purchase of $25. Monday–Friday 11am–2:30pm Coupon required. Expires 1/15/12. LUNCH 11am–2:30pm DINE IN ONLY Monday–Friday 4:30pm–9pm DINNER LUNCH BUFFET $7.99 DINNER Saturday and Sunday 12–9pm Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday Friday–Sunday BUFFET $9.99 REVISED MENU 5pm–9pm NEW! Chaat section added! Come on in. You’ll love it! We also have Sushi! DINNER LOWER PRICES Friday & Saturday DOMESTIC BEER $1.75 5pm–10pm IMPORTED/PREMIUM 1821 - 22nd Street Suite 103 West Des Moines 255-1698 CLOSED MONDAYS s s BEER $2.50 515-440-2075 s www.king-and-i-thaicuisine.com 7500 University Avenue s Clive (except Indian beer)
www.dmcityview.com/relish FALL | 2011 15 the DISH RELISH %DGQHZVJRRGQHZVDZDUGVDQGQHZVWXII By Jim Duncan
he third quarter of 2011 was a bitch. Food &DQGLHV¶ Ingersoll store was closed in Septem- corporations reported huge drops in earnings ber… Bandana’s shuttered their store in West Des T despite higher prices. There were massive re- Moines… 8UEDQGDOH &DIH closed… The Game ran calls of contaminated ground turkey and cantaloupe. out of time… .)& closed their Southwest Ninth Street Sugar supplies dropped to a 37-year low. Food banks outlet… .& %%4 shut down Des Moines stores on became overwhelmed and desperate for supplies. Douglas Avenue and also on East 14th Street… Rob USDA Food Stamp use surged to $65 billion from $28 erts Dairy closed the Iowa City plant that served Des ELOOLRQMXVW¿YH\HDUVDJR,Q¿YHVWDWHVUHVWDXUDQWV Moines, moving production to Omaha and Dubuque. were allowed to accept them. Had Iowa also allowed Forty-seven jobs were affected… $.2¶&RQQRU¶V that, the bad news here might have been less severe. a Beaverdale institution for decades, shut down… &DIIUH\¶V 6WHDNKRXVH closed in the same space The Bad News ZKHUH 0DFNH\¶V )DPLO\ 5HVWDXUDQW *DU¿HOG¶V 5HG After six years of glorious Pakistani cuisine, Sheikh Hot & Blue, Zachary’s Sports Bar & Grill and P’Zazz Naseem closed Tandoor… Tasty Tacos shut down had failed before them. their Douglas Avenue store… Amici’s closed their store on Urbandale Drive... The Q shut down… The Good News Shane’s Rib Shack’s Clive store closed… Suzette Chef David Baruthio and Sara Hill of Baru 66 part- Largest Selection of Used Equipment in the Midwest! Layout & Design Services t New & Used Equipment t Lease or Buy OPEN M–F 8–5 Sat. 9–Noon
OPEN TO THE PUBLIC!
DEALER of the HUGE NEW LOCATION and SHOWROOM!+YEAR 6000 Aurora Avenue t Des Moines t 282.0033 With locations in Des Moines, Omaha, Lincoln, Minneapolis, Atlanta, Denver and Kansas City www.hockenbergs.com
16 FALL | 2011 www.dmcityview.com/relish GREAT MEAL t GREAT FUN t FULL MENU t FULL BAR the DISH RELISH nered with Deborah and Paul Secord plus Lynn and Sarah Pritchard to open Tartine, an Alsatian café serving three meals a day in the former Shane’s Rib Shack space in Clive… Lin Xing and Lala Gao opened Sakura Sushi in Normandy Plaza… Jay Wang opened :DVDEL&KL$VLDQ&XLVLQH 6XVKL%DU in the former Timothy’s Steakhouse locale on Douglas SERVING CERTIFIED Come try a customer favorite: ANGUS BEEF! 3 Cheese Cheeseburger Avenue... Taste of Oriental received liquor license We have your TICKET to all of SUNDAY’s Big Games! approval for their new location in The Q’s former Look for our space on Eighth Street in West Des Moines… Jose FREE Wi-Fi NEW MENU! Kino opened (O &HQWUR$PHULFDQR on Southeast HAPPY HOUR 14th Street.. Contrary to rumor, it is NOT a love child GIFT CERTIFICATES 4–6pm & 10pm–close & PRIVATE of Centro and Americana but a new restaurant serv- PARTY ROOM Monday–Thursday AVAILABLE ing food from Guatamala, El Salvador, Honduras and Order our FAMOUS CHEESE CAKE for your special events! Nicaragua… Menchie’s Frozen Yogurt (California) opened in Wellington Square in West Des Moines… Former Bagni di Lucca baker Cameron Keller opened .HOOHU¶V a deli and bakery, in the former Funky Pickle locale...7DOOJUDVV*URFHU\&RRS opened in Valley “Where the Old West meets the Iron Horse” Junction… Mike Sears opened 7KLQ &ULVS\3L]]D 200 Gateway Drive Grimes 986-0355 in the BP station on Highway 141... George Formaro Open every day at 11am and Orchestrate Hospitality opened Zombie Burger + Drink Lab in East Village, with a march of the walking dead and international fanfare. NEW AND USED EQUIPMENT Awards & Honors KE9DDO9J=K9F<?D9KKO9J= Iowa Restaurant Association (IRA) named George )RUPDUR ³&KHI RI WKH
www.dmcityview.com/relish FALL | 2011 17 the DISH RELISH DQG D 86 3RVW 2I¿FH ZDV EHLQJ UHPRGHOHG WR EH- on Ingersoll Avenue next to Taco John’s, by opening come a Subway… Saints Pub + Patio owners leased their second local store on Grand Avenue in West Des the former A.K. O’Connor’s space in Beaverdale and Moines in a former Taco John’s, two doors from a new announced a new bar tentatively called Beaverdale Taco John’s… Nikki Syverson became Winefest Des Tap... Bruce Gerleman planned a Dec. 1 opening for Moines’ new director… %LOO &OLQWRQ, famous for his Jethro’s Jambalaya in West Des Moines’ Hawthorne love of burgers, barbecue and junk food, became the Plaza… Wendy Goering opened B Sharp Bistro in the world’s most famous vegan. Partnership Building where Corigliano’s had been a re- cent tenant… Rex Dewey, Brodie Thomas and Brian New Stuff We Like Sloan bought Paradise Pizza and renamed it Paradise &\)U\%UHDG, a new concession treat at Jack Trice Italian Grill… Bob Etzel Jr. announced that a Speed Stadium, is topped with strawberry cream cheese… ee B’s Burgers would open in the former KC BBQ Icelandic Glacial Water, marketed as the purest on East 14th Street… La Pizza House added lunch drinking water on Earth, is 4,500 years old from Ice- service… East Side Grill and Kelly’s Little Nipper land’s Olfus Spring. It never touches the air until the added breakfast… Luna and The Bistro at DMACC in bottle opens… Bacardi Oakheart spiced rum should Ankeny added dinner hours… 3ULWFKDUG¶V%RRN&DIp threaten market leader Captain Morgan… Mississippi expanded to a new larger venue in Southridge Mall… River Distilling Company’s River Rose Gin, made Alohana Hawaiian Grill moved from Clive to Anke- in LeClaire with local farmers grains, provides a de- ny… Nico Pecheron, Joe and Christina Logsdon bought lightful range of botanicals with lavender, rose petals Bagni di Lucca, changed the pizza recipe, lowered its and locally grown cucumbers… Peace Tree Kolsch, price and began adding breakfast pastries and sand- the best brew yet from a central Iowa brewery of wiches… Abelardo’sIROORZHGXSWKHLU¿UVWDUHDVWRUH distinction. suck-off-the-bone irresistable! OPEN FOR LUNCH AND DINNER Monday 11–7 Tuesday–Saturday 11–8
DINE-INTAKE-OUTCATERING BRISKET s RIBS TAILGATING FOOD AND SUPPLIES PULLED PORK SEE OUR MENU ONLINE! 2716 Ingersoll Avenue s www.unclewendells.com s 288-3207
18 FALL | 2011 www.dmcityview.com/relish the DISH RELISH New Stuff We Don’t Like baristas for illegal nudity... A new food safety Domino’s new line of ³$UWLVDQ´ SL]]D mocks the scandal in China took bird’s nests off menus in meaning of a once honest word… Bottomless soda high end restaurants… Two of Australia’s largest and ³7KUHH:D\ 3RUN %XUJHUV´ (seasoned pork food manufacturers, Coca Cola and Heinz, closed topped with bologna, bacon and American cheese), their factories because the U.S. dollar had devalued new concession offerings at Iowa State University, so much it became cheaper to import their own ÀXQN DOO FODVVHV LQ KHDOWK\ HDWLQJ« 'ROH¶V “Real products… The U.S. Securities & Exchange Com- )UXLW %LWHV´ are treated with sugar, sugar-treated mission agreed to drop bribery charges against yogurt and a couple strange chemicals… Jack Dan- beverage giant Diageo — in exchange for a pay- iels’ new Honey Jack messes with a nearly perfect ment of $16 million… Denmark added unpopu- thing. lar ³IDWWD[HV´on cream, butter, sugar, eggs and chocolate… Fair Food picketed Trader Joe’s over We Did Not Make This Up the chain’s refusal to work with a Florida tomato Texas ended last meal requests on death row af- growers coalition that has suffered more than a ter Lawrence Russell Brewer ordered two chicken 1,000 cases of human slavery in the last 15 years. fried steaks, a triple-meat bacon cheeseburger, fried okra, a pound of barbecue, three fajitas, a Goodnight Sweet Prince meat lover’s pizza, a pint of ice cream and a slab Iowa’s food communities mourned the death of Bob of peanut butter fudge but didn’t eat anything… Braverman, 54, founder of Friendly Farms, a leg- San Jose, Calif., cracked down on its famous Viet- endary retreat and working farm that revived natural namese coffee shops by arresting waitresses and farming in the state. RELISH
Now selling wines WOOD-FIRED PIZZA by the glass FRESH, FLAVORFUL and SALADS BEER & WINE by the GELATO & SORBET Enjoy cigars 6OJWFSTJUZ"WF4VJUFt$MJWF on our patio! bottle! tXXXSFESPTTBDPN
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www.dmcityview.com/relish FALL | 2011 19 the FEATURE RELISH Hamburgers are us By Jim Duncan
amburgers are enigmas in a bun. Despite be- ing the most popular meal of the masses, they HDOVRIXO¿OODOOJRXUPHWFULWHULD7KH\FRQWUDVWKRW (meat) with cold (lettuce), sugary sweetness (ketch- up) with sour tang (pickles) and an acid kick (onion and tomato) with soothing alkalinity (bun). Textures range from charred to soggy while stacking every color of the rainbow, even Maytag blue. Novelist Tom Rob- bins even considers them spiritual. “A hamburger is warm and fragrant and juicy. A KDPEXUJHULVVRIWDQGQRQWKUHDWHQLQJ,WSHUVRQL¿HV the Great Mother herself who has nourished us from the beginning,” he wrote. %XUJHUVHFWDULDQVREVHUYHVWUDQJHULWHV,QKLV¿OP “Hamburger America,” director George Motz celebrated burger culture by visiting places like Dyer’s in Mem- SKLVZKHUHEXUJHUVDUHGHHSIULHGLQWKHVDPH¿OWHUHG grease they’ve been using for 90 years. “Somewhere in there are molecules from 1912. That’s what makes ’em so good,” the owner tells Motz’s camera.
Unifying America In his book in “Hamburger Heaven,” Jeffrey Tenny- Jason Simon uses high heat to sear Alba’s burgers. son wrote that burgers are “the one thing that unites 1930s. Americans as a people.” Actually, hamburgers are quite Since then burgers have inspired provincialism. As a bit older than America. In the 13th century, they rode author Calvin Trillin puts it, “Anyone who doesn’t think into the western world, literally, under the saddles of the best hamburger place in the world is in his own Mongol hordes, who ate them raw. Germans began hometown is a sissy.” Don Short, whose family has cooking them, in Hamburg, like steaks. Over a century owned Taylor’s Maid-Rite in Marshalltown since 1928, ago, nutritionist Dr. J. H. Salisbury recommended eat- has a more poignant illustration. ing hamburgers at least three times a day. They then “I have mailed frozen Maid-Rites now to at least 20 became known as Salisbury steaks. different people who were suffering from terminal can- ,QSRSXODUORUHEXUJHUVZHUH¿UVWVHUYHGDVVDQG- cer. They all grew up in Marshalltown and wanted to wiches at the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair. However, taste one more Maid-Rite before they died,” he says. Louis’ Lunch in New Haven, Conn., claims to have been Contemporary economic conditions have again ush- selling them since 1900, and the town of Hamburg, N.Y., ered in a new phase of burger adoration. Burger cor- claims they originated there in 1895. The Hamburger SRUDWLRQ VWRFNV URVH VWHDGLO\ RYHU WKH ODVW ¿YH \HDUV Hall of Fame agrees they were invented in 1895 but in without being phased by the 2008 collapse of the stock Seymour, Wis. In Oklahoma, it’s believed that Oscar market. McDonalds’ stock tripled since late 2006. In %LOE\ZDVWKH¿UVWWRVHUYHEXUJHUVRQDEXQQHDU7XOVD the typically contrary nature of the burger, though, the in 1891. The justices of history agree that hamburger contemporary mania also developed a new upscale and buns were legally married by 1912. In 1926, Maid- niche, particularly here in Des Moines. 5LWH WKH ¿UVW EXUJHU FKDLQ RSHQHG LQ 0XVFDWLQH ,W Ten years ago, Old Homestead restaurant in New expanded rapidly in the 1930s along with diner archi- York City gained national notoriety by claiming the tecture, and both things came to represent affordable most expensive burger in America, a $41 special made comfort during the Great Depression. By the 1930s with Kobe beef. One-hundred dollar burgers popped up burgers had overtaken hot dogs as the most popular in Las Vegas restaurants within two years. After the American dish. The cheeseburger appeared in the mid 20 FALL | 2011 www.dmcityview.com/relish the FEATURE RELISH go burns fat nicely, so we had to use a coarser grind there. Our mixes at Centro and Django are similar, but there is an added (secret) cut of beef,” he explains. The tweaking worked, Gourmet featured Gateway’s among America’s best burgers, and USA Today named Django’s exactly that. Zombie Burger brought a new set of challenges with D QHZ VSHFLDOO\ GHVLJQHG ÀDW WRS JULGGOH DV ZHOO DV smaller patties with smaller prices. “The griddle we designed intentionally replicates cast iron pans. The salt seasoning we developed was designed to help form the crust (sear) on the burgers. Getting that crust right took months of testing and ex- perimenting,” Formaro explains. Buns were not easy either. Formaro decided that the smaller patties demanded a different kind of bun tex- Des Moines Burger at Zombie Burger + Drink Lab WXUH&KHHVHVZHUHDOVRGLI¿FXOW “Personally, I think regular American cheese works stock market collapse of 2008, burger extravagance awfully well on burgers. But diners who go out to res- gave way to a new style of affordable excellence. WDXUDQWVGRQ¶WMXVWZDQWDEDVLFEXUJHU,QD¿QHGLQ- George Formaro, three times a James Beard Award ing restaurant, they want some element of adventure VHPL¿QDOLVWKDVSUREDEO\SXWPRUHREVHVVLYHORYHLQWR included. So we offer more than 20 specialty burgers perfecting burgers than anyone in Iowa. He has cre- at Zombie, with exotic cheeses and other things,” he ated special burger recipes for Gateway Market, plus says. Gateway Market Café, Django, Centro and his newest Formaro isn’t the only top chef who features burgers venture, Zombie Burger + Drink Lab. LQ KLV ¿QH GLQLQJ HVWDEOLVKPHQWV -DVRQ 6LPRQ WZLFH “I once thought that making a good burger was one D-DPHV%HDUG$ZDUGVHPL¿QDOLVWKDVVLPLODUORYHIRU of the easiest things in the kitchen. Now I think it’s one humble burgers. However, he restricts burger options of the hardest. Economics comes into play at every at Alba to just one, made with a mix of short ribs, han- turn. In the (grocery) market, you have to be aware gar steak and New York strip. that your burger mix is going to be compared on price ³,ORYHWKHEHHIÀDYRU,JHWIURPWKRVHFXWV´KHH[- more than anything else. And that means you have to plains. keep it affordable. You aren’t as restricted in restau- He also prefers a 75 percent lean mix. He cooks his rants because diners are willing to pay more for burger burgers in carbon steel skillets heated over super high than grocery shoppers are. So there we can use things like rib eye and even dry aged beef. “I loved using skirt steak, beef cheeks and hangar steak in our burger mixes from the beginning, but those cuts became fashionable for steaks in the last few years, after 2008. So they became more expensive and harder to come by. We ended up with an even mix of brisket and chuck. It’s 75 percent lean, and the bris- ket has enough collagen that the fat provides juiciness without the greasiness other similar mixes have. Our ‘Perfect Burger’ is the same mix; it differs simply in the way it’s ground and cut — in a single direction so that round strands are rolled together with pockets that can trap juices,” Formaro says. Those mixes didn’t work in his restaurants, though. Each restaurant’s burger mix required tweaking. “All our burgers at Centro are cooked over wood, and at 'MDQJRWKH\¶UHFRRNHGRYHUJDVJULOOV7KH¿UHDW'MDQ- Maid-Rites touch a special part of the Iowa heart and mind.
www.dmcityview.com/relish FALL | 2011 21 the FEATURE RELISH ÀDPHVDIWHUEHLQJVSUD\HGZLWK³´RLOWKDWKDVD high smoke point. Patties are “smashed” with a smaller frying pan after turning. “You have to have high heat to achieve the maxi- PXPVHDU´6LPRQVD\VH[SODLQLQJWKDWÀDYRULQEHHI FRPHVIURPD0DLOODUG5HDFWLRQWKHVFLHQWL¿FQDPHIRU the process that does for proteins what caramelization does for carbohydrates — bonding molecules at high KHDWZKLOHUHOHDVLQJQHZÀDYRUV7KLVPLJKWEHWKHODW- est thing in burger love, but it’s hardly new. Guess who wrote the following advice about searing beef for juici- QHVVDQGÀDYRU" “Thus as the exterior pores contract, the moisture contained within cannot escape any more but is impris- oned.” Not all that much has changed since Aristotle taught How big is a Big Max? Start with four pounds of beef. Alexander the Great how to cook burgers. RELISH
shallots, garlic and salt for seasoning. Burger Legends of Des Moines *HRUJH 7KH &KLOL .LQJ and several Coney Is- lands serve loose meat burgers that have been slow At %LJ &LW\ %XUJHU *UHHQV, extras include cooked in large seasoned batches for more than roasted tomatoes, fried eggs, jardinière and fried half a century. prosciutto. Quarter pound burger baskets are so popular that *UDQGPD 0D[¶V “Big Max” contains four pounds they account for more than a quarter of all sales at of ground beef. High Life Lounge. Jethro’s³$GDP(PPHQHFNHU´ZKLFK¿QLVKHGVHF- Mullet’s “Gringo” includes half a pound of burger ond in ESPN’s nation wide best sports sandwich stuffed with jalapenos, bacon, cheese and barbecue contest, includes a half pound steak burger, plus sauce. pork tenderloin, brisket, bacon, chicken tenders, &KHI¶V.LWFKHQ¶Vspecialty burger is a Maytag blue fried cheese and white cheddar sauce. cheese take on the rarebit theme, where the burger, Jesse’s Embers’ “Emburger” and Maxie’s “Maxie- onions and cheese are steamed under a hood. burger” are both half-pound sandwiches that have Pickett’s Pub’s third-of-a-pound sirloin burgers been made the same way for more than 40 years. DUH ÀDPH JULOOHG 7KHLU IDPRXV WULSOH EXUJHUV DUH The latter was dubbed “Happy Max” in Jeff Hagen’s not for sissies. book “Searching for the Holy Grill.” Trostel’s Greenbriar grills steak trim burgers &KULVWRSKHU¶V grinds their burgers from the trim RYHU KRW RSHQ ÀDPHV DQG VHUYHV WKHP ZLWK DQ\ RI SULPH ULE ¿OHWV DQG RWKHU PLGGOH PHDW DGGLQJ sauce in their vast European repertoire.
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SIMPLY THE BEST Open for Lunch FOR EVERY OCCASION – Seasonal Salads & Sandwiches NOT JUST FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS! MonFri 11am to 2pm W`]l`]jqgmj]afZdm]b]Yfkgj A Unique Dining & ALWAYS FRESH. ALWAYS GOOD. o]Yjaf_Yla]$qgmdddgn]mk Sharing Experience COMFORT FOOD DAILY SPECIALS 5810 MERLE HAY ROAD XQLYHUVLW\DYHQXHFOLYH 6(721(6'5,9($1.(1< phone: 221.dish 964.2112 www.chipsrestaurant.com www.greenbriartrostels.com www.dishtrostels.com
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GREAT GIFTS FOR THE “HARD TO BUY FOR” PERSON IN YOUR LIFE! MI PATRIA Central Iowa’s Only LIVE MUSIC Ecuadorian Restaurant Thursday nights 6pm–close Buy 1 dinner, get 1 dinner Bring this coupon in & get
HUGE SELECTION OF HARD CIDERS AND BEERS 1/2with purchase OFF of 2 drinks. 10%your entire OFF bill. Expires 1/15/12 Expires 1/15/12 ENGLISH IRISH SCOTTISH WELSH 1410 - 22nd Street West Des Moines 515-222-2755 515-222-2754 (fax) 429 Douglas Downtown Ames 515.598.5127 Tuesday –Sunday: 11am–9pm Closed Monday MON TUE WED 10am–6pm THU 10am–8pm FRI 10am–6pm SAT 10am–5
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ANKENY EASTEAST NORTHEASTNO URBANDALE SOUTH 2401 SE. Delaware Ave.Ave. 1418 E. GrandGrand AvAve.e 2900 E. Euclid Ave. 8549 Hickman Rd. 5847 S.E. 14th St. 964-2400 266-4242266-4 262-1100 331-2000 285-1946 465¶:(;HT¶WTT www.tastytacos.com ¸5HKH,Z0TWVZPISL¹
www.dmcityview.com/relish FALL | 2011 25 the PLACES RELISH STEAKHOUSE 5FYBT3PTFPSUSZPVS5BTUFPG5FYBT 4BNQMFS 5IFO GPS EJOOFS USZ PVS AJ’s Steakhouse MBUFTUTJHOBUVSFDSFBUJPOoPVS4JH -PDBUFEBU1SBJSJF.FBEPXT3BDF OBUVSF 4UFBL 8FEHF 4BMBE #VU USBDLBOE$BTJOP "+T4UFBLIPVTF XIBUNBEF-POF4UBS4UFBLIPVTF GFBUVSFT BXFTPNF *PXB TUFBLT POF PG "NFSJDBT GBWPSJUF SFTUBV BOE DIPQT TFBGPPE QBTUB BOE SBOUTDPNFTTUSBJHIUGSPNUIFHSJMM UIF CFTU QSJNF SJC JO UPXO 5IF PVSPXOTQFDJBMCMFOEBOEUIFO BUNPTQIFSF JT FMFHBOU CVU OFWFS NFTRVJUFXPPE HSJMMFE UP PSEFS TUVòZ'SPNCPPUTUPTVJUT UIJTJT 5SZ 1FQQFSDPSO 3JCFZF PS PVS ZPVS QMBDF GPS HSFBU TUFBL * P[ #BDPO8SBQQFE 4JSMPJO PòFST &YJU "MUPPOBXXX HSFBUUBTUFBOEHSFBUWBMVFBUUIF QSBJSJFNFBEPXTDPN TBNF UJNF 8F MPPL GPSXBSE UP HSFFUJOHZPVi5FYBT4UZMFwPOZPVS presents Jethro n’ Jake’s OFYUWJTJUUP-POF4UBS4UFBLIPVTF Smokehouse Steaks /PX JO "MUPPOB 4UJMM BU %SBLF Tokyo Steak House LIVE MUSIC /P "VTUSBMJBO PS 5FYBO TQPLFO -PDBUFEBU4&%FMBXBSF"WF IFSF 5IFTF TUFBLT BSF DPSO GFE "OLFOZ *PXB 0VS SFTUBVSBOU PG featuring *PXB SBJTFE 64%" $IPJDF NFBU GFST B XJEF BSSBZ PG BVUIFOUJD JANEY IJDLPSZ TNPLFE PWFS B DBNQöSF +BQBOFTFEJTIFT SBOHJOHGSPNUSB local talents HOOPER Blues BOE CSPJMFE UP QFSGFDUJPO JO PVS EJUJPOBM EJTIFT TVDI BT #FFG5FSJ Thursdays–Saturdays Jazz EFHSFF +FUISPAO +BLFT öSF ZBLJ 4BMNPO 3PMM 4BTIJNJ -VODI R&B NBDIJOF 5IJT TFBMT JO UIF KVJDFT UPOFXTUZMFFOUSFFTTVDIBT'JTI BOEøBWPST"MMPVSTUFBLTBSFTFB 5FNQVSB 3PMM 5PLZP -PWF #PBU TPOFEXJUICMBDLQFQQFS TBMUBOE )JCBDIJ4XPSE'JTI5SZPVSGPPE FRED öOJTIFE XJUI B UPVDI PG TNPLFE BOETFSWJDFUPEBZ$PNFJOEVSJOH SAM GAZZO SALAMONE HBSMJDCVUUFS"EWFOUVSFMBOE PVSMVODIIPVSGPSB-VODI4QFDJBM BAND %SJWF "MUPPOB XXX PSEVSJOHFWFOJOHTGPSBEFMJDJPVT Jazz Big Band/ Iowa Jazz Hall KFUISPTEFTNPJOFTDPN +BQBOFTFEJOOFS:PVDBOBMTPPO Rat Pack of Fame Inductee Crooner MJOFPSEFSZPVSGBWPSJUF+BQBOFTF John and Nick’s 'PPEGPSUBLFPVUPSDBUFSJOH0VS "GUFS ZFBST +PIO +BFHFS MFGU HPBM BU 5PLZP 4UFBL )PVTF +BQB TONY IJT GBNJMZPXOFE SFTUBVSBOU BOE OFTF 3FTUBVSBOU JT UP QSPWJEF BO JOHN VALDEZ KRANTZ PQFOFE +PIO /JDLT 4UFBL BOE VOGPSHFUUBCMF EJOJOH FYQFSJFODF Best of ‘70s Jazz 1SJNF3JC&OKPZIJTGBNPVTTBMBE GPS BMM PVS QBUSPOT XXXUPLZP to the Present CBS CJHHFS BOE CFUUFS XJUI TUFBLIPVTFBOLFOZJBDPN NPSF UIBO GSFTI IPNFNBEF JUFNT5IFCFTUQBSUJTUIFTBMBECBS WINE HOMEMADE PIZZA DPNFTXJUIZPVSNFBM&OKPZCMBDL IN THE LOUNGE MONDAY–THURSDAY "OHVT TUFBLT B HSFBU TFMFDUJPO Vintage Wines PG JODSFEJCMF TFBGPPE DIPQT BOE 7JOUBHFT QBUJP PòFST UIF POF Award-Winning Cuisine UIF IPVTF TQFDJBMUZ QSJNF SJC BOE POMZ GVMM SFUBJM XJOF CBS FY Full Bar with Complete Wine Menu BMMTFSWFEBUGBNJMZGSJFOEMZQSJDFT QFSJFODF8IFUIFSZPVBSFJOUIF +PIO /JDLT DP[Z BUNPTQIFSF NPPE GPS B HMBTT PG XJOF PS B Tremendous Atmosphere BOEEFMJDJPVTGPPEXJMMNBLFZPVS XIPMF CPUUMF BU SFUBJM QSJDJOH PS EJOJOH FYQFSJFODF VOGPSHFUUBCMF FWFOBDPMECPUUMFPGCFFS 7JOUBHF DITION FO )JDLNBO 3PBE $MJWF JTUIFDPPMFTUQMBDFJOUPXOGPSB FAMILY TRA R 75 YEARS! A XXXKPIOBOEOJDLTDPN TQMBTI8JUIPWFS TFMFDUJPOT MONDAY–THURSDAY: 5PM–9PM PGXJOFBOEPWFSCFFST UIFSF FRIDAY AND SATURDAY: 5PM–10PM Lone Star Steakhouse JTTVSFUPCFTPNFUIJOHGPSFWFSZ -POF4UBS4UFBLIPVTFJTBMMBCPVU POFBU7JOUBHF'PSNPSFJOGPSNB 8631 HICKMAN ROADURBANDALE EFMJWFSJOH#*(UBTUFT8FMJLFUPTBZ UJPOöOEVTPO'BDFCPPLPSTJHO (Just north of Dahl’s on Hickman) i8BMLJO)VOHSZ 8BML0VU5FYBOw VQ GPS XFFLMZ FNBJMT .JMMT yBOEUIBUNFBOTZPVMMCFUSFBU $JWJD 1BSLXBZ 4VJUF 8FTU 271-9200 FE XJUI HSFBU 5FYBT IPTQJUBMJUZ %FT .PJOFT XXXWJOUBHFXJOFJB WWW.SAMANDGABES.COM 4UBSUZPVSNFBMXJUIPVSTJHOBUVSF DPNRELISH
26 FALL | 2011 www.dmcityview.com/relish STEP UP TO THE PLATE!
Whether it’s a casual lunch for 25, an elegant sit-down dinner for 125 or a banquet for 200 featuring vibrant international cuisine, the Cub Club Restaurant & Catering is now taking reservations for your holiday parties, meetings, weddings, birthdays and other parties. Centerplate’s culinary team will use only the finest and freshest ingredients to create a truly extraordinary dining experience for you and your guests that has a view like no other! The Cub Club remains open to the public Monday through Friday, 7am to 2pm for breakfast and lunch during the off-season.
We hope to see you soon!
PleasePlease contactc us at 243.6825 or [email protected]
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