C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS JUNE 2011 NO. 18989 The ’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

AAntiguantigua ClassicsClassics 20112011

See stories on page 24, 26 STEVE MANLEY JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN PAGE 2 JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Ad Sales - Debra Davis ...... 40 Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell : 696 93 26 38 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) [email protected] Puerto Rico: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo Olga Diaz de Peréz Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720 8432. [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Ad Sales & Distribution - Chris Bissondath, for each of the six months spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] Distribution - Eric Bendahan Tel: (599) 553 3850, [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] /BVI: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 222-1011, Cell: (868) 347-4890, [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] Dolly’s Deep Secrets ...... 33 Secrets Dolly’s Deep ...... 36 Sky The Caribbean ...... 37 Cruisers Cooking with ...... 38 Readers’ Forum What’s on My Mind ...... 41 Calendar of Events .....42 Caribbean Market Place ...... Classified Ads 46 ...... 46 Advertisers’ Index Compass S/V Dolce Vita ISSN 1605 - 1998 near you! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole DEPARTMENTS — Bill Bouchard ...... 32 We truly enjoy the Great job and thanks! covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, we are in the area each year. It is entertaining and a great we are in the area each year. It is entertaining and a great resource for all the cruising community. We also frequently do business with your advertisers — this is the way a publication should work, meeting the needs of all stakeholders. is published monthly by welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. at Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta 2011 See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! noresponsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts and clarity.responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length this publication, except©2011 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Ltd. short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Compass Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doyle Elena can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 7 Business Briefs ...... 10 View Doyle’s Deck Regatta News...... 14 ...... Meridian Passage 2 ...... 31 Book Reviews Sailor’s Horoscope ...... 32 Island Poets ...... 33 Cruising Kids’ Corner Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass 175 BQ,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. 457-3410 Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] : Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 : Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] /Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected]

GUY DEAN nd the nd Listen… ...Shortwave weather reports 35 Imperfect Paradise ...... Honduras Bay Islands 22 Click Google Map link below to fi ...... 12 JUNE 2011 • NUMBER 189 JUNE 2011 • NUMBER www.caribbeancompass.com

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& ? Sure! ...... New summer destination 21 Down time in Tobago ...... 18Down time in Tobago Hot Stuff Grenadines’ sailors race Green and Serene VERSOL WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED Cover photo: Photographer Steve Manley’s study of a crewmember on the of the schooner Cover photo: Photographer Steve Manley’s study of a crewmember JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 being inSt.George’sHarbourandboomingbusinessthetown.“Allrestau- and ARCEurope—harshweatherintheAtlanticledtomorethan75yachts George’s, andtheislandasawhole,”hesaid. visit. “It’ssomethingthatwouldbehugelybeneficialforallthebusinessesinSt. said thatbyextendingperiodto90days,itwouldencouragemoreyachts spend 21daysontheislandbeforetheyhavetorequestanextension,butBascome Government toextendtimelimitsforsailorsvisitingtheisland.Sailorscancurrently Bermuda RoyalGazette &Updates Info The mayorwasspeakingasacombinationoftwosailingrallies—theAtlanticCup According toareportbyOwainJohnston-BarnesintheMay12thissueof Bermuda MayorSays‘LetYachtsStay!’

, St.George’sMayorKennethBascomeiscallingfor GLENN TUCKER/THE GAZETTE ROYAL TUCKER/THE GLENN be requested extension must weeks beforean are givenjustthree stay. Currentlythey three-month initial allow yachtvisitorsa for Immigrationto Bermuda, iscalling St. George’s, Bascome of Mayor Kenneth The daily openingsoftheSimpsonBayBridge: Dutch Caribbeanpoliceresources. addition toincreasingcooperationwiththeFrenchsideGendarmesandother and theRoyalMarechausseeswillsendanadditional20officersfromHolland,in vice intimefornextseason. service. TheSMMTAhopestoestablishamorepermanentversionoftheshuttleser- tion onSt.Maarteningeneral,andtoencouragetheuseoftemporaryshuttle police forcetoupdateyachtspeopleonthegypsytaxidangerandcrimesitua- the latenighthours. and SMMTAmembers.Localtaxiassociationsalsoincreasedtheiravailabilityduring Bay stripatnightaswellafreecrew-shuttleservicesponsoredbythenightclubs side TaxiAssociationsresultedinSMMTA-sponsoredincreasedpatrolsoftheSimpson officials. SubsequentmeetingswithlocalnightclubownersandDutchFrench Association (SMMTA)tookaverypro-activeapproachandmetwithseniorpolice up potentialvictims. 26th. Incustodyarethreemenwhopretendedtobeoperatingagypsytaxipick The solvedcrimesincludethekillingofyachtchefLudovicGuillevinonFebruary Royal Marechaussees,andGendarmesstationedontheFrenchsideofisland. the PoliceForcesofAruba,Bonaire,Curaçao,KingdomCooperationTeamRST, thanks tocooperationbetweenlocalSt.Maartenpolice,theProsecutor’sOffice, the gypsytaxibanditsbetweenFebruary26thandMarch4thhavebeensolved Bermuda’s watersandspendtheirmoneyhereastourists.” boat andthecrewshouldbegivensameamountoftime,sotheycancruise to threemonths,evenunattended,iftheygetpermission.Whatwearesayingisthe and exploreBermuda,orhangaroundspendmoney.Theboatcanup one daysgoesveryquickly.Itdoesn’talwaysleaveanyrealopportunitytocruise potential valuetotheislandofhavingvisitingyachtspeoplestaylonger.“Twenty- town andthebusinesses.” increased,” hesaid.“Youcanseeforyourselfwhattheyachtsaredoing me toreconsiderandwritethecurrentministeraskforlimitbe limit beextended,butwasnevergivenaresponse.“Thelastweekorsohascaused previously sentalettertoformerMinisterinchargeofImmigrationrequestthe rants’ balconiesarefullofpeople,”Bascomesaid.Themayoraddedthathehad —Continuedonnextpage At 9:30and11:30 The St.MaartenMarineTradesAssociationreports: Simpson BayBridgeSummerSchedule For moreinformationfromtheSMMTAseeadonpage15. The St.Maartenpoliceforcewillbeadding70newofficersbytheendofyear Two captains’securitybriefingswereheld,whichincludedrepresentativesofthe Immediately followingthedeathofChefGuillevin,St.MaartenMarineTrades Three murders,twoviolentrobberiesandonerapecommittedinSt.Maartenby St. MaartenPro-ActiveonCrime Mark SoaresofBermudaYachtServicesagreedwiththemayor,stressing At 4:30 At 5:30 PM PM : inboundtrafficallowed. : outboundtrafficallowed. AM : thevesseltrafficwillbeoutboundfirst,andafterthatinbound.

This summertherewillbefour JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 Pied See and scroll to share your , anchored in , anchored in Asti Spumante. Minshara , she considered herself very much a , she considered herself very , with 20,000 reviews, some 1,500 www.street-iolaire.com/index.htm , with a 70-year-old British singlehander named British singlehander named , with a 70-year-old . Nergal , Santa Cruz 70 hull Number One, and won numerous races , Santa Cruz 70 hull Number Caribbean Compass in 1999. Howard Palmer of Barbados was tactician and sev- in 1999. Howard Palmer of Barbados was tactician and . Pauline returned to the cosmos from whence she family. Pauline returned to http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Women_Cruisers https://activecaptain.com Blondie Pied Piper Compass www.adrenalinesun.com , the former ‘Boat Watch’ Subject Returns ‘Boat Watch’ Subject ketch The 50-foot fibreglass Tubb aboard — a full month later — Laurie On May 18th Trevor thanked everyone involved in the boat watch for their concern. Trevor thanked everyone involved Eight Bells PAULINE DOLINSKI with great sadness that I have to inform you that Pauline Voytek Dolinski reports: It is • A new yahoo group has been formed by a group of women cruisers in • A new yahoo group has been formed by a group of • Heading for the US this summer (or already there)? Check out the interactive • Heading for the US this summer (or already there)? Check Voytek and Pauline cruised aboard their 30-foot Islander, Voytek and Pauline cruised Cruisers’ Site-ings • Hurricane season is here again. Visit including and surf- • For a refreshing approach to Caribbean action sports, DICK JENNINGS died on May 17th. The Great Lakes-based sailor had a Racing sailor Dick Jennings Trevor aboard, reportedly left Isla Margarita, Venezuela on April 18th bound for St. Venezuela on April 18th reportedly left Isla Margarita, Trevor aboard, widespread take about four days. A that might be expected to Maarten, a destina- had not arrived at its intended was initiated after the yacht “boat watch” tion by April 28th. Margarita, reported: “Trevor turned up here in Margarita this morning… fit, healthy in Margarita this morning… “Trevor turned up here Margarita, reported: problems, steering and no-wind really annoying! He had engine, and of , but had no (got to within 15 miles attempts to reach St. Maarten made several to return here. Basically he was bobbing around radio) and made a few attempts out there.” days after her 68th birthday. Creator of the original Dolinski died on April 27th, eight Word Search Puzzles in Cartagena, as a meeting place for women cruising throughout the world. Cartagena, Colombia as a meeting place for women full-time or part-time, you Whether you are aboard a sailing or motor vessel, cruise are invited to join experiences, ideas and knowledge. cruising guide at day from marinas. updates per day from boaters and several hundred a page —Continued on next came. She lived a life full of intelligence, curiosity, adventure, passion, and dreams. intelligence, curiosity, adventure, passion, and dreams. came. She lived a life full of to teaching children that realizing one’s dreams Her professional life was dedicated many of her own dreams she realized. I had the is possible; it is remarkable how be part of that life. honor and good fortune to part of the Piper to all who met him, while eral Bajans were aboard. Dick was generous and gracious He will be missed.’ maintaining a fierce competitive presence on the racecourse. a dozen articles full of hurri- down the right-hand side of the page to download half cane tips from Don Street. ing, visit Voytek’s poem about sailing with Pauline on page 32. Voytek’s poem about sailing for a few years on one of a series of yachts called Caribbean racing campaign I and raced the St. Maarten in the Caribbean circuit. Ellen Sanpere says, “Tony and Heineken on

CHRIS DOYLE Continued from previous page Continued from There will be special openings in cases of inclement weather and during hurricane There will be special openings in cases of inclement weather per day, will be The resumption of the high-season schedule, with six openings We would like to remind all vessels to call “ Attendant” on VHF channel 12 “Bridge Attendant” on VHF to remind all vessels to call We would like time, then call in for an exact opening going into the lagoon may Smaller vessels Open wide! The SMMTA has announced the summer schedule for openings of the Open wide! The SMMTA has announced the summer schedule St. Maarten’s lagoon Simpson Bay Bridge that allows vessels to enter and exit enter the channel and stand by to reduce the transit time. Jetskis should use the enter the channel and stand by to reduce the transit time. should not enter the north part, which does not swing, and rowboats and kayaks channel when the bridge is in operation. 12, local radio stations season. These will be announced via e-mail, VHF channel Bridge attendants will and, given enough time, the local and regional newspapers. be near their stations if required to answer any radio requests. announced at a later date. before transiting, stating their name and intention to enter or depart. stating their name and before transiting, — JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 hotly contestedannualKubuliCaribcanoerace. Dive Festofferswhalewatching,achildren’streasurehunt,beachpartiesandthe ties arefreeoravailableataconsiderablyreducedrate.Inadditiontodiveevents, number ofdivingsessionsscheduledforbothadultsandchildren,manyactivi- Dominica’s 18thannualDiveFest—scheduledforJuly8ththrough17th.Therearea about whatworks(anddoesn’t)aboardaboat. foods thatstorewellonaboat.Insixyearsoffull-timecruising,Carolynlearnedlot focus onpracticalwaystocookwithoutpreparedfoodsorelectricappliances,with the mostoutoftheirgalleys.WrittenbyformercruiserCarolynShearlock,articles visit Carriacou Freeport(asreportedbyChrisDoyleintheJanuaryissueof — • Liketoeatonyourboat?Sure,wealldo! For moreinformationvisitwww.dominica.dm/site/divefest.cfm. Preparations areunderwayfortheCaribbean’slongest-runningdivingfestival— Dominica DiveFestforJuly • ForthelatestnewsfromGrenadaActionForumregardingproposed Continued frompreviouspage 284-494-2830 Parts &Power: 284-494-3494 Marine MaintenanceSvcs: 284-494-2400 Cay Electronics: Tortola: 868-634-4272 Dockyard Electrics: 868-667-7158 Engine Tech Co.Ltd: Trinidad &Tobago: 340-775-9912 All PointsMarine: St. Thomas: 599-544-2051 Electec: St. Maarten: 758-450-0552 Martinek: St. Lucia: 340-776-6665 Coral BayMarine: St. John: 340-773-0289 St. CroixMarine: St. Croix: 596-596-787-196 Inboard DieselSvcs: Martinique: 473-439-2049 Enza Marine: 473-443-1667 Grenada Marine: Grenada: 767-448-2705 Dominica MarineCenter: Dominica: 784-457-3114 Caribbean Diesel: Bequia: 268-460-3049 Seagull Yacht Svcs: 268-460-1850 Marine PowerSvcs: Antigua: http://grenadaactionforum.com/2011 C001 . TheBoatGalley.com www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com Reliability. Durability. Simplicity. Simplicity. Durability. Durability. Reliability. into hernewwebsite cruising cookexperience put sixyearsof Carolyn Shearlockhas helpsboatersget Compass ), wholesalers oftheUSA,onpage45.Goodtohaveyouwithus! Caribbean Compass 30th, surroundedbyfamilyandfriends.Liesbetisafrequentcontributorto happily launchedintotheseaofmatrimonyfrombeachinSt.MartinonApril Congratulations toLiesbetCollaertandMarkKiltyoftheyacht Compass In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! Relatives throughouttheCaribbean Romance atBaieRouge:aproposalandweddingallinone… WriterTiestheKnot A FamilyofGeneratorswith Compass . ofwelcomeaboardnewadvertisersSeaSensemarine Irie

, whowere AXEL BUSCH AXEL JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 1 888 SHIP DYT • : Tel. +596 596 741 507 741 507 +596 596 : Tel. , and playing gigs in bars along the Blitz E-mail: [email protected] Compass. DYT Martinique You can download the album at CDBaby, Amazon Superyacht Services in Tobago services company Store The Tobago-based marine low sulphur, locally pro- Tobago offers high quality, For more information visit www.sbms.co.tt. Cruiser-Musician Launches CD After cruising the Caribbean for four years aboard his Go well, our friend, and a big “THANK YOU” from all and a big “THANK YOU” Go well, our friend, on Jonathan in next We’ll have more Toulon Toulon Palma de Mallorca Everglades Everglades Port 11/2011 Everglades Port 06/2011 06/2011 Everglades Port 11/2011 Port 12/2011 12/2011 record Fantastic Voyage, an album of songs about the cruising lifestyle and his experiences. or iTunes, and visit his blog at http://steveizac.blogspot.com. Bay Marine Services is now offering bunkering, provi- Bay Marine Services is now super- and megayachts. sioning and shore support for Services at SBMS, Katy Director of Superyacht Support opportunity for us, the Young says, “This is an exciting and their owners. island and for superyacht crews the superyacht custom- Tobago has so much to offer island, with unspoilt, quiet er. It is a beautiful and safe friendly people, world-class anchorages and beaches, world’s oldest protected and one of the destination and rainforests. It is the ideal Caribbean belt.” importantly out of the hurricane the price of less duced marine diesel, and at with other Caribbean than US$1 per litre can compete fees and port dues of destinations. With low clearance is both economically and just US$0.05 per GT, Tobago superyacht market. ecologically attractive to the catamaran, way, singer-songwriter Steve Izac returned to the UK to assisted cruisers not only with getting parts or local ser- not only with getting parts assisted cruisers kept them up and their boats but vices for themselves to weather from the Grenadines to date on the season. He during the hurricane Trinidad, especially charities. functions benefiting local actively promoted and will be sorely missed. He is an icon of us cruisers. month’s Through December 2011 Through VOYAGES FROM THE CARIBBEAN VOYAGES Nadine Massaly DYT Representative Martinique St. Thomas Martinique Martinique TO THE MEDITERRANEAN Martinique TO THE EAST COAST USA Martinique Le Marin, Martinique WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM Over the last eight years he welcomed cruisers from Practical Preparation for Offshore Sailing Practical Preparation and safe prepare you for a fun “Nothing will better held at the Sailing Seminar will be The next Offshore lec- Seminar combines classroom The Ocean Sailing learning about each Students will spend a half-day the seminar is per- Opened to all interested sailors, workshop in a classroom The Seminar is an interactive For more information on future rallies and seminars, Island Water World Grenada Manager Retires Ms. Kitty reports: Jonathan Fisher of Island Water and back home to the UK. all over the world to this island paradise and helped to make their stay a pleasant one. His familiar voice offshore adventure to Bermuda, , the to Bermuda, the Bahamas, offshore adventure highly beyond than the intensive, Caribbean and says Rick Ocean Sailing Seminar,” practical two-day USA. for World Cruising Club Palm, Event Manager Hampton, Hotel on the waterfront in Crowne Plaza September 24th and 25th. Virginia, USA on and one-on-one interac- tures with group discussions students. An all-inclusive tion with speakers and fellow speaker materials, program of seminar presentations, and social time hotel accommodations, meals, a cost-effective, enjoy- together combine to provide able in-depth learning experience. outfitting your boat for off- of four major subject areas: boat and crew off- shore cruising; managing your and planning for off- shore; understanding weather in the islands and a shore emergencies; plus cruising timeline to departure. transition from coastal fect for those considering the It is also highly cruising to bluewater passagemaking. and crew of the recommended for future skippers Rally for Cruisers, Caribbean 1500 Rally, the Atlantic and the World ARC. to present practical infor- setting. The speaker’s role is mation derived from the millions of offshore miles that rally participants have experienced over the com- bined total of nearly 50 years in the Caribbean 1500, the ARC, the World ARC, and other World Cruising Club sailing events. visit www.carib1500.com or www.worldcruising.com. World in Grenada has decided to give up island life . We love being S/V Marie Galante II

Yacht at Rest, Mind at Ease Yacht Photo by Onne van der Wal

During our first season the marina management If you are staying at anchor or at other locations on This is one of many activities to do during hurricane For more information on Port Louis Marina see ad on This will be the third summer at Port Louis for Lucie

Port Louis: ‘Come Play Grenada Carnival!’ Port Louis: ‘Come reports: If you are still wondering Richard Rolland lagoon of St. George’s natural Enjoy the protection BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS just steps away from the parades and other carnival activities such as Monday Mas, J’ouvert, the night parade and other events. Port Louis offers a secure base from which to enjoy the , dancing, drinking and fun. arranged for a carnival band to play at the marina. Guests were given a preview of the music, a chance to see the costumes and to have the workings of car- nival explained. Eight of us decided to “live the expe- rience” and what an experience it was — to be immersed in a sea of colour and beautiful costumes! Last summer 16 cruisers from the marina participated in the carnival and had a blast. the island, you can call Port Louis (435-7432) for infor- mation on participating in the carnival activities. The more cruisers we have participating, the more fun we will have. This is an excellent opportunity to reunite with old friends and make new ones, and to enjoy the company of the uniquely generous, welcoming and honest Grenadian people. season and one not to miss. Come and live the Grenada Carnival experience and we are sure you will want to come back for more. page 11. wind around the lagoon. Grenada Carnival 2011 runs from August 5th through 9th. and me aboard where to spend the hurricane season, Grenada — the hurricane season, Grenada where to spend to be. Louis Marina — is the place especially Port amenities while you join in and Port Louis’s convenient festivities. Lime and the carnival preparations and carnival costume or take wine in your very own exotic for the parades as they advantage of front-row seats JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 event reporterChrisWalter. reporter JerryStewart,destinationcorrespondentAmalThomas,andenvironmental commentator NoelMawer,poetDillonOllivierre,featurewriterFrankPearce,regatta Suzanne LongacreandJohnGideonse,featurewriterCherylJohnson,sailing-scene reviewer BobBerlinghof,poetNanHatch,thewriter-and-photographerteamof Present thisyear(inalphabeticalorder),alongwiththeirinvitedguests,werebook racing,hasbeenaninspirationtonewgenerationsoffemalesailors. who, byprovingthatanall–womanteamcancompeteatthetoplevelsofCaribbean Ted andMaryAnnBull.AnotherspecialguestwasBrendaFarfan Belmar. Wewerealsopleasedtowelcome & theGrenadinesMinistryofTourism’snewestCommunicationManager,Yonnette were oneofourveryfirstBrunchguestspeakers,SirJamesMitchell,andSt.Vincent Sally Erdle,ProductionManagerWilfredDedererandBookkeeperDebraDavis— a vitalsourceofinformationaboutyachtingintheCaribbean. the pastyear’scontributorswhoprovidecontentthatmakes getting togetherwith,andsaying“thankyou”inpersonto,asmanypossibleof Compass PublishingLtd.’sannualpre-EasterRegattaWriters’Brunchisourwayof ered forthe15thAnnualCompassWriters’BrunchatMac’sPizzeriainBequia. call fromyachtspeopleandmarinebusinessassociationsforyachttourismpolicies 15 yearsthat tourism policies—includingyachtpolicies.Thisiswelcomenews.Overthe union, OECSMemberStatesareworkingtowardtheprogressiveharmonizationof Grenadines. Asakeyingredientinthesuccessfulestablishmentofaneconomic Dominica, Grenada,,St.Kitts&Nevis,LuciaandVincentthe the MemberStates:,Antigua&Barbuda,BritishVirginIslands, Economic UnionandthecreationofaSingleFinancialSpaceamong Basseterre, whichcameintoforceinJanuaryandaimsatestablishmentofanOECS absence, herspeechwaskindlyreadbyTomHopman. she hascontinuedtomoveyachtingmattersforwardonasubregionallevel.Inher position asDirectorGeneraloftheOrganizationEasternCaribbeanStates(OECS), cruise-ship passengersinmanyislandsoftheEasternCaribbean.Inhercurrent mark studypublishedin2004thatfamouslyprovedyachtingvisitorsoutspend Commission forLatinAmericaandtheCaribbean(ECLAC),sheinitiatedbench- Director oftheSubregionalHeadquartersUnitedNationsEconomic keen St.Luciansailorandastrongadvocatefortheyachttourismindustry.While nately thiswasanotherofthosetimes.Scheduledfor2011Dr.LenIshmael,a Chris Doyle. sailor PaulJohnson;andtheEasternCaribbean’spremiercruisingguideauthor, Association, DickStoute;yachtdesigner,marineartistandlegendarybluewater Yachting AssociationandSecretaryChiefMeasureroftheCaribbean Caribbean MarineAssociation,SharonMcIntosh;pastpresidentoftheBarbados Government’s YachtingSteeringCommitteeandformerManageroftheregional Association ofTrinidad&Tobago,formerChairmantheTobago Administration, CommanderDavidRobin;formerGeneralManagerofYachtServices Commander andcurrentheadoftheSt.Vincent&GrenadinesMaritime Youth andtheSeasail-trainingprogram,ChesterPeters;thenCoastGuard Chairman oftheBequiaTourismAssociationandleaderRotaryClub’s officer providedauniquelinkbetweenofficialdomandyachtingvisitors;former Grenadines, SirJamesMitchell;SylvesterTannis,whoasBequia’sChiefRevenue have includedyachtsman,authorandformerPrimeMinisterofSt.Vincent&the tradition shortlythereafter,andwestartedinvitingguestspeakersin2000.Speakers Contributors AskedforInput on SubregionalYachtPolicy On April21st,morethan30 The firstissueof The starsofeveryCompassWriters’Brunchare,course,ourcontributors. Joining the Dr. Ishmael’sremarkstothegatheringweremadeinlightofRevisedTreaty On twopastoccasions,ourscheduledspeakerwasunabletoattend,andunfortu- 15th Annual Caribbean Compass Compass Compass CockpitCrew—ManagingDirectorTomHopman,Editor waspublishedin1995,theannualBrunchbecamea Compass Compass hasbeenpublished,thereaconsistent contributors,staffandspecialguestsgath- Compass’s Writers’Brunch: formerSt.Luciaislandagents, Caribbean Compass

from Trinidad, this month. rechecking intoGrenada. to clearoutwithCustoms,Immigration andthePortsAuthorityinSVGthen far asUnionIsland.Headdedthattheybecome discouragedbytheprocessofhaving moving betweenGrenadaandSt.Vincent &theGrenadines. able toexploittheyachtingmarketbecause ofadministrativedifficultiesinvessels the bestsailingwatersinCaribbean. However,hesaidthecountryhasnotbeen offer,” MinisterDavidsaid. what wehavetooffer.Morevisitingyachtsmeanmoredemandfortheservices we Grenada ifwemakeiteasiertosailfromtheGrenadinesandintoenjoy giving itsfullestsupporttotheinitiative.“Webelievemoreyachtswillcome into points throughoutthenation. secured thenecessaryfundingtoequipvariousportsofentryandothercheck- anticipation oftheSYS,MarineandYachtingAssociationGrenadahasalready vides advancednoticefortheclearanceofyachts,inandoutislands. In and PortsAuthorityadministrativeprocessthatiselectronicallyoperated,pro- between theislands.BothnationsarehopingforasimplifiedCustoms,Immigration Department andvariouspartnerswithintheyachtingsector. Grenada’s MinistryandBoardofTourism,theGrenadaPortsAuthority,Customs committee thatmetonMay16th.Theincludesrepresentativesfrom be usedasapilotmoduleforthedevelopmentofanOECSSingleYachtingSpace. Yachting Space(SYS)betweenthetwocountries.TheGrenada-SVGSYSislikely to for negotiationswithSt.Vincent&theGrenadinesoncreationofaSingle single clearanceswouldbefullyimplementedintheOECSmarinespace. agreed tourgetheAuthoritysetdateofDecember1st,2011asabywhich and hasslesthatcouldimpedethefurthergrowthofyachtinginOECS.Ministers undertaken asamatterofurgencytowardstheeliminationunnecessarybarriers Islands hasalreadyfullyimplementedtheeSeaClearsystem. intent toalsoproceedthisimplementationinduecourse.TheBritishVirgin clearance assoonpossible,apilotexercise.Otherministersindicatedtheir informed themeetingoftheirintentiontoproceedwithalreadyagreedeSeaClear made tofacilitatethemovementofyachtsthroughwatersOECS. yachting intheOECSmarinespace.TheMinistersagreedthateveryeffortmustbe engaged inaveryspiriteddiscussiononthesubstantialvalueandimportanceof Ministers ofTourismmeetinginSt.Kitts&NevisonApril19th, Brunch, alwaysheldontheThursdaybeforeEaster. your talentandefforts—wehopetoseeyouatafuture Pizzeria staff.Thenitwastimetopreparefortheraces—ormaybetakeanap! over abountifulbrunchbuffetpreparedbyJudySimmonsandherexcellentMac’s Policy [email protected]. states aboard. first steptowardthemoreproblematicexerciseofgettingallnineOECSmember “single yachtingspace”wasfirmlyendorsedasbeingpossiblythemostworkable was notedthatprovidingacommonformis,infact,whateSeaClearalreadydoes. to somewhatdifferentpricing(“especiallyassomecountrieshavemoreoffer”).It ance proceduresandastandardformthroughouttheOECS,wouldnotobject cated thatthey,andtheyfelttheirpeers,wouldavidlywelcomecommonyachtclear- each memberstatesettheamountofitsownfee.Theyachtskipperspresentindi- the yachtclearanceproceduresandtohaveastandardform,butlet on theirownbudgets,itwasfeltthatapracticalcompromisewouldbetoharmonize ceived tobethefactthateachcountrywouldwanttakedecisionsonfeesbased ments toagreeoncommonpolicy,thefollowingpointscamefore: ered, althoughsomeskepticismwasexpressedaboutgettingvariousislandgovern- throughout theEasternCaribbean. — primarilytheegregiouslydiverseclearanceprocedurestobestandardized on thesustainabledevelopmentofyachtinginEasternCaribbean More thanameal.Atthisyear’sWriters’Brunch, Grenada-SVG negotiationsontheproposed SYSareexpectedtocommence Stiell explainedthatthemajorityofyachties travelingfromnorthtosouthreachas Director attheGrenadaBoardofTourism, SimonStiell,claimsthatGrenadahas Grenada’s MinisterforTourism,PeterDavid,saidtheGrenadaGovernmentwillbe The SingleYachtingSpaceisgearedateasingthemovementofyachtssailing Grenada’s proposalstobepresentedinthenegotiationsarebeingdraftedby a On May17th,theGovernmentofGrenadaannouncedthatispreparing Grenada andSVGtoNegotiateSingleYachtingSpace The MinistersagreedtorecommendtheOECSAuthoritythatworkshouldbe The TourismMinistersofGrenada,St.Lucia,andVincent&theGrenadines After Dr.Ishmael’sspeechwaswritten,thefollowingnewsarrived:AtOECS OECS MinistersofTourismAgreetoUrgeSingleClearances To thosemanycontributorsunabletoattendthisyear,wethankyou,too,forall After Dr.Ishmael’sremarkswerediscussed,convivialconversationscontinued As Dr.Ishmaelindicated,additionalfeedbackregardingaCommonYachtTourism • TheideathatSt.Lucia,Vincent&theGrenadinesandGrenadaformapilot • BecausethemainhurdleforacommonOECSyachtclearancepolicywasper- When thefloorwasopenedfordiscussionafterDr.Ishmael’sremarksweredeliv- See excerptsfromDr.Ishmael’sremarksonpage9. News Updates Compass contributorsofferedideas Compass Writers’ JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Immigration office in the marina for clearance • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo & 7 miles East of International Airport FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMEN FOR CRUISING POINT FOCAL

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aaaaa MMMM Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Marina Zar-Par In preparation for a meeting of senior OECS tourism officials a few weeks ago in weeks ago in tourism officials a few for a meeting of senior OECS In preparation author of one of the most influential cruising guides I also contacted Chris Doyle, The Revised Treaty of been meeting in St Kitts & Over the last few days OECS Ministers of Tourism have in working with us in theIt is in this spirit that I ask for your continued goodwill • High Quality Sheltered Moorings • Slips to 120’ with depth 10’ • 70 Ton Travelift (30' beam) • ABYC certified machanics • Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps • All slips with fingers development of the OECS to be left to the vagaries of chance; it represents an incred- vagaries of chance; it represents the OECS to be left to the development of it deserves. It must be given the attention literally on our doorstep and ible resource and mem- of a common policy framework, to the development lends itself exquisitely the bid to ensure been willing partners in fraternity have always bers of the yachting viability of the sector. the growth and of Caribbean personalities in the world a couple of well-known St. Lucia, I contacted a real advocate here this morning and is Sally Erdle, your hostess yachting. One Sally and I dis- Most of the issues which sector and community. for the yachting a vibrant yacht- to the development of ago still exist and are inimical cussed years Sally emphasized the importance of standardization ing sector here in the OECS. entry fees. Her view? Harmonized fees and simple of clearance procedures and yachts to visit the OECS, and encourage clearance procedures would encourage compliance once here. in the Caribbean. Chris pointed to the need for basic infrastructure — for example, the impor- tance of dinghy docks to ensure that yachtsper- sons spend money ashore. He also under- scored the willingness of members of the yachting community to work with the public sector to ensure that plans for the industry are practical and result in the best outcomes. Basseterre identifies Oceans Governance and management of the single maritime space as one of the important aspects of the work of the OECS (Secretariat) Commission. Your being here today is both timely and vital as participants in the con- versations required to initiate the actions required to unlock the tremendous potential of the yachting sector to contribute to the devel- opment of the OECS. Issues such as pollution, and permits, anchoring and crime and safety at sea, clearance procedures, fees infrastructure and skills moorings, and sea grass protection, provisioning, requires further dialogue — transfer comprise some elements of the agenda which and action. in the Economic Union. Nevis to chart a new path for the management of tourism While other sectors are The yachting sector has a pivotal role to play in that regard. to contribute to the social also important, the truth is that the potential of yachting untapped. Simply put, more and economic wellbeing of this region remains largely needs to be done. development of this sector. I invite you to send to Sally ([email protected]), the OECS, your ideas regard- a Goodwill Ambassador for yachting sector interests in of islands — from the BVI ing how we ensure the transformation of this archipelago for sailing, contributing posi- in the north to Grenada in the south — into a Mecca of these islands and the social tively to the sustainable use of the natural resources and its citizens. and economic development of this corner of paradise

COURTESY THE VINCENTIAN

The OECS Secretariat has itself actively promoted and pioneered a number of ini- The OECS Council of Tourism Ministers has agreed on a number of strategic inter- In terms of average daily expenditure per visitor, even in the face of far smaller The OECS Secretariat has been working towards fulfilling a series of mandates The OECS Secretariat has been working towards fulfilling Despite the excitement associated with the creation of the Economic Union, the Despite the excitement associated with the creation On January 21st 2011, the Revised Treaty of Basseterre Establishing the On January 21st 2011, the Revised Treaty of Basseterre By pooling their financial and human resources they have built an impressive By pooling their financial and human resources they Dear friends and members of the yachting community: welcome, especially to Dear friends and members of the yachting community: Addressing OECS leaders in St. Vincent on May 18th, Dr. Ishmael said that the Addressing OECS leaders in St. Vincent on May 18th, can use to make Secretariat is gathering information that heads of Government policy for the clearance key policy decisions. These include adoption of a common of yachts into and out of OECS waters tiatives in the yachting sector over the past few years but the vital public-private sector partnerships needed to sustain these initiatives have not developed. Under the tag line “Many Islands… One Sea”, the Secretariat coordinated the first OECS presence as a guest of honor at one of the world’s premiere boat shows: the Grand Pavois in France. The Secretariat assisted with the development of marine trade associations in several Member States; used the ARC to work with Member States in the hosting of an OECS Rally; met with the largest French charter company to nego- tiate issues relating to provisioning for the yachting industry and systems for the prepayment of clearance fees; held meetings with the yachting community on crime, safety and security and on simplified procedures for clearing in and out; and initi- ated discussions between St. Vincent & the Grenadines and Grenada on the concept of the Grenadines as a single maritime space — all important, worthwhile initiatives which regrettably have not developed the traction required for their follow-up and sustainability. The potential of this industry is too vital to the social and economic ventions that need to be embraced as part of the policy-making process, including facilitating the adoption of a common policy and approach to the clearance of vessels into and out of OECS sailing waters in an efficient, seamless and business-friendly manner without compromising border security; managing opportunities for Member States to undertake joint marketing of the OECS yachting product in target mar- kets; and formulation of a Code of Ethics for operators in the yachting sector. However, all agree that enough is not being done to move these ideas, which have been on the books for years, into the series of actionable pieces that will deliver results, revenue and jobs. numbers, yachting continues to outperform the cruise sector in many OECS desti- nations. The relative economic advantages of yachting are becoming even more apparent with the growth of the mega-yachting sub-sector in the region — yet the yachting sector remains one whose huge potential is still largely untapped even though the OECS lies at the very heart of the best sailing waters in the Caribbean, if not the world. from the OECS Council of Tourism Ministers, which seeks to synchronize tourism from the OECS Council of Tourism Ministers, which at this morning’s Brunch, I development activities in the region. Given the audience will focus my remarks on just one of the tourism niche areas in which the OECS has a demonstrated competitive advantage — that of yachting. mandate to fashion a common tourism policy comes at a rather turbulent time in mandate to fashion a common tourism policy comes turbulence is what is required regional economic fortunes — but perhaps this very is charted in terms that are to provide the impetus to ensure that the way forward practical and designed to move from rhetoric to action. Organization of Eastern Caribbean States Economic Union came into effect and in Organization of Eastern Caribbean States Economic countries to an entirely new so doing took the model of integration of these nine has implications for how we level. Forming a single economic and maritime space resources and shared stocks, do business within that space, how we manage joint will be managed and operate and of course over time, how the yachting sector within that space. array of institutional architecture at the regional level providing services in common, array of institutional architecture at the regional level a single currency, a common in an attempt to derive economies of scale. They share aviation and telecommunica- judiciary, are served by a common authority for civil of the world, and have estab- tions, have joint diplomatic missions in different parts the interests of Member lished a Secretariat as part of the executive to represent States regionally and internationally. those of you who hail from outside these shores. Your visit to Bequia and this year’s those of you who hail from outside these shores. Your of times in the historical Easter Regatta coincides with one of the most exhilarating comprise the OECS, evolution of this grouping of nine micro states who collectively Island Developing States as they continue on a journey along which no other Small have gone before. Excerpts from Remarks by by Remarks from Excerpts General Director OECS Len Ishmael Dr. Brunch, at Compass 2011 April 21 Bequia, JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 friendly systemintheEasternCaribbean. Theyoffera Customs department,cameupwiththe mostyacht- where thegovernment,incooperation withthe makes ahugedifference.Kudosalso to Dominica, ism andtheneedsofyachtingcommunity. It friendly astheyrealizedtheimplications ofyachttour- tions tomakethemmucheasierand moreyacht- from thegovernment,hasreinterpreted theregula- department itself,overtheyearsandwith noprodding St. Kitts&Neviswhere,asfarIknow, theCustoms on board,justleavingAntiguatocatchup.Kudos Montserrat, St.Kitts&NevisandAnguillaarenowall Caribbean ithasexpandedsothatDominica, yachtspeople andofficials.InthenorthernEastern has definitelycomeintoitsownandishelpingboth dures wentwhereoncetheyweredifficult.ESeaClear strides madeinmanyplacesandhowsmoothlyproce- Eastern CaribbeanthisyearIwasdelightedatthe by epauletsy,farfromit.AsIwassailingthroughthe most CustomsandImmigrationofficialsareafflicted lacks perspective. estly thinksheisdoingtherightthing.Hejust epaulettic ispersonable,wellmeaningandhon- trade forthecountryheisserving. negative publicityallovertheinternet—notagreat the Customsrevenueboxand$50,000worthof court) andslappedhimwithabigfine.So,$5,000in charter comingupanddidnothavetimetowaitfor had a“gotcha”moment(heknewthecaptain purpose behindthelaw,butheadofCustoms his boat,hewasnotdoinganythingcountertothe the Customsofficewasclosed.Hetooknothingoff Customs. HehadnotyetclearedCustomsbecause next totheCustomsoffice)beforehehadcleared US$5,000 foreatinginarestaurant(thatwasright this seasonwhenacharterboatcaptainwasfined whom theyhavepower.Therewasagoodcaseofit and actuallytakepleasureinharassingthoseover where theofficialsdonotcareaboutindustry, sionally getacaseofmalignantepauletsy.Thisis the wholeAPISbusinessafewyearsback.Weocca- machinery. Occasionallywenarrowlyescape,aswith up, sometimesaseffectivelythrowingsandin has afitofepauletsyandmanagestomessthings when thingsstarttogowell,someofficialsomewhere throughout theEasternCaribbean.Mostyears,just ing theyachtingindustryinbroadestsense all-round hardship. tively affecttheeconomythatsupportsthem,causing sarily harassingthoseoverwhomtheyhaveauthority. purpose behindtheregulations,andendupunneces- ously andnarrowly,ignoringthereasonoverall whereby suchpersonsconsiderregulationsfartooseri- garments withepaulettes.Aformoftunnelvision affliction thatoccasionallysurfacesinthosewhodon I wouldn’tliketogivetheimpressionthatthink Happily, malignantepauletsyisrare.Usuallythe I haveworkedformanyyearsinthefieldofpromot- Epaulettic —onesufferingfromepauletsy. Side effects:Personssufferingfromthediseasenega- Epaulette Disease,Epauletsy—Apsychological Epaulette Disease DECK VIEWFROMTIKANOTBYCHRISDOYLE bureaucracy hasbeenmultiplyinglike rabbitsin Now thatStatiahasbecomepartofthe Netherlands, Statia withnoproblemoneithersidefor manyyears. year comesfromtinyStatia.Yachtshave beenvisiting tor ofthetourismindustry? is theextrasecurityworthdamageto aprovensec- spend theirtimefillinginforms)andeven iftheydid, going tomakeanydifference(crooksdo notgenerally problems, butitisunclearthattighterrestrictions are ulations. IamsuretheCustomsfeeltheyfacesecurity yachting canpossiblyreboundunderthecurrentreg- nitely nothelpinganditishardtoseehowTrinidad tions contributingtothis,buttheofficialsaredefi- in 2000.TherearefactorsotherthanCustomsregula- fewer thanathousand,fromhighofmore2,600 Annual yachtarrivalsinTrinidadarenowdownto permission eachtimetheywanttomovetheboat. now demandsyachtskippersvisitCustomsandget dom tovisittheiranchoragesofchoice,officialdom Compass backwards. IhavealreadywrittenaboutTrinidadin talk aboutepauletsy,Iamtalkingbigleaps would bewayaheadofwherewearenow.ButwhenI just geteveryonetoadoptDominica’sregulationswe ing community. all youneed.Thisishugelyappreciatedbytheyacht- two-week in-and-outclearance;onetriptoCustomsis rules foryachts impressive diving…andproblematicnewImmigration history, friendlypeople,enjoyablerestaurants, Below: ThewharfatOranjeBaai.Statiahasarich you’ll wanttodepartbeforeabadnortherlyswell Oranje Baai,St.Eustatius(Statia)isusuallycalm,but Above: Theanchoragebehindthebreakwaterat Perhaps themostegregiouscaseofepauletsy this Many islandsstillhavealongwaytogo.Ifwecould . Havingformerlyallowedyachtsrelativefree- month’s initials onlysosheisinnowayassociatedwith thisarticle. tioned existonlyinthemindofepaulettic. teria, areunnecessary.Thesecurityproblems men- aggravating, willdonogoodand,byany objectivecri- “prey on”poorlittleStatia.Thesenewrestrictions are that suddenlynefariousyachtspeopleare waitingto years, anditisastretchoftheimaginationtosuppose crime regardingnormalyachtingvisitorsoverthelast has beenworkingwellforyearsinStatia,Iknowofno ter aresimple.Everythingbetweenyachtsandofficials is charmingandhelpful.However,thefactsofmat- the personwhowrotethis,buteveryoneassuresmehe morning; wewon’tacceptthis. 1800 hoursandthendepartat0500thenext leave theisland,notthattheyclearoutforexample can contactusandasktobeclearedoutrightaway staying herewouldendangerhis/hervesselthenthey our quietandalmostcrime-freeisland. that wemustbeanopenhousetoeveryonepreyon have vesselsenterourislandbutthatmustnotmean new lawsthathavebeenapplied. within ourofficehours. airplanes thattravelsin/outofourbordersmustdoso BES article2.3toegang/Entryexplainsthatvesselsor will bethere.InourlawitwrittenassuchintheWTU whenever Igavesomeoneatimetoclearoutbelieve strict controlbutatthesametimeIcanbeflexibleand e-mail howisthecrimeinthosecountries?Ibelieve ours mustbeassuch.Incountriesmentionedinyour their bordersrelaxedandnocontrolthatdoesnotmean and borderingonthedangerous. ers, considertheserestrictionsasbeingunseamanlike that oftheimmigrationofficer.I,andIthinkmostcruis- decision ofthecaptainwhenhe/sheshouldleave,not wrecked severalyachtsinStatia. avoid theswell,becauseasweknow,swellshave The captainmaywishtoleaveat0600,soshecan saying thatabigswellisduetoarriveinStatiaat0800. navigate hiswayin.Theremaybeaweatherforecast arrive athisdestinationindaylightwhenitissaferto at nightsohecansailduringsomehoursand open. Ifacaptainisgoingfurther,hemaywishtoleave sometimes shemayneedtoarrivewhencustomsis her nextdestinationduringdaylighthoursandalso need toleaveearlyinthemorningsoshecanarriveat leave ataparticulartime.Veryoftenthecaptainmay time ofdayaboatwillleave. cer isnotgoingtosea;sheshouldbedecidingwhat It hastobethecaptain’sdecision;immigrationoffi- must beallowedtheflexibilitytoleavewhenitissafest. edited forspelling): not agoodidea(bothe-mailsslightlyabbreviatedand restriction. Bye-mailItriedtopointoutwhythiswas country intheEasternCaribbeantocreatesucha during officehours.Statiathusbecomesthefirst dawn orinthemiddleofnight—youmustdepart Therefore thereisnowayyoucangetunderwayat that yachtsmustleaveonthesamedaytheyclearout. spring. ThenewImmigrationdepartmenthasdecided See anarticlebyRosieBurroncruisingStatia innext My thankstoAVfortheconceptofepaulettedisease; Iuse This tomeisaclearcaseofepauletsy.Ihavenotmet Division SintEustatius Koninklijke Marechaussee(RoyalMilitaryPolice) Senior Supervisor If thereareroughseasandthecaptainfeelsthat I understandthatweonStatiaareverypleasedto In thepastasyouarereferringtoiswehave Let mestartbysayingthatifothercountrieshave Good afternoonChris, It fellondeafears: Chris Doyle For theseandmanymorereasonsithastobethe Therearemanyreasonswhyacaptainmaywishto A captainisinchargeofhisorherboat,andhe/she Compass . JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 up to 32up to 40up to 50 $345up to 60 $545 $745 up to 65 $985 to 75 up to 80 up $1,210 up to 100 $1,420 $1,860 $2,385 LOA in feet Monthly rate LOA in feet Monthly rate For more information about securing a summer berth at Port Louis Louis berth Port at a summer securing about information more For 7431 435 (473) on +1 Donelan Danny please contact Marina, [email protected] or email New Summer Rates* – 1 June to 30 November SummerNew Rates* *Prices valid for bookings for of one valid month or longer. *Prices INDIES

WEST ITALY | MALTA | TURKEY | | MALTA ITALY www.cnmarinas.com/plm Port Louis Marina is justifi ably known as one of the best appointed, one of the best appointed, as known ably justifi is Marina Louis Port location spectacular its With the Caribbean. in full-service marinas the perfect cruising base for it’s capital, to the island’s adjacent round. year all the Grenadines, Marina Louis a berth Port at rates, summer new our with Now, affordable. more even is to offer, has luxury and the marina the convenience all enjoy You’ll marina- security, 24-hour facilities, dockside exemplary including and chandleries services, Technical more. and broadband wide by. or close on-site either available, also are haul-out facilities beauty, natural stunning and atmosphere welcoming to its In addition the hurricane outside therefore and to 12°N close is Grenada the oat throughout afl safely remain can yachts means which belt, airport, international own its ts from benefi also The island summer. . and York New to Miami, ights fl direct with & Nicholsons Camper by operated and owned is Marina Louis Port on hand staff knowledgeable are and friendly our and Marinas, you. welcome a day to hours 24 Port Louis Marina, Grenada – Grenada Marina, Louis Port affordable welcoming, beautiful, JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Bequia an’ together, seewhogo’beatwho.Class6next;onlytwoindatclass, Canouan inClassAan’ down WestCay,doahtriangleoffPagetFarman’finishderamp. waitin’ fo’dehour.Yesman,11o’clockreachan’timestartdem.StartLowerBay, beach waitin’fo’destart.Twenty-eightdouble-endersonsand,allsailsset, Carriacou an’ old agebutshewillbebacknextyear.DenClass7,debigboys.Wegot beatin’ alldeAClassboats. Worries ah goodpositionbecauseshedoesgodownwindliketrain.Ahstillgotmeeye on rollin’ sowego’see! me eyeon up toSempleCaybecausedetidedroppin’an’asahsay,windlight.Ahkeepin’ de rescueboatsoahgo’havegoodview. Bequia. DenClass1an’2,alldelittleones.Downwinddemgolookin’nice. I in Lightning out down toWestCayan’finishoffHamiltonPoint. finish butahwatchingdebigones,uptoHopeRock,dotriangleoffPagetFarm, ones first,littlelast.Degoin’straightdownWestCayan’upto de weather fo’youngducks,lighterdanyesterday,sunhotspite.Offdemgo, big which waydetablesturn. in front,sheevenbeatout Skyler Semple Cayan’downtoWestCay,now dey ondebeattofinishoffHamiltonPoint, still infront,wid Limbo Ace Confusion man loves,ahdoes. he heartan’outdeydoin’t’inglikenot’ing happen.ButIagreewidhim:whatah over definishline.Yo’ha’fo’gi’man credit. Heover80,hejustdoahsurgeryon B Class 5Aan’Bstartin’first.Wegot Bam! Dehorngo. De windnotovertenknotsan’dewatercalmsodeygo’haveahgoodsailtackin’ Dem veryclosearounddeHopeRockmarkan’ondrawtoAdamsmark, Sunday isherean’westartin’atFriendshipbeach.Deweatherclear,good De sungethotteran’debreezedroplighter an’poorUncleLaceyin . Ahtellyo’what,itgotaht’ingbetween Allickan’Leo.Demisoldrivalsbut Ace isdownsoAllickskipperin’ still infrontbeatin’ : deygoin’upwindtodefinishan’hestillinfront.SheBClassbutshe . An’debigboys,deyjammin’close,tackfo’,but de dayhascome.Yes,isSaturday23rdAprilan’weallonLowerBay leech an’rakin’backdemastahlittle,hopin’wego’getitrightdistime.Well, oy, ahtellyo’isweeksweplannin’,playin’widdejib,tekuplittleon wid an’ Worries Ace Confusion Bequia Pride Confusion, BequiaPride,Lightning,DoubleBluff from Carriacou.No SEE WHOGO’ : sheinfrontan’holdin’ownbutAndygotderecordfo’ Lightning, Confusion BEAT WHO! Worries Confusion closebehind:ahveryrace.Good.Tomorrowwego’see byOrbinOllivierre More Worries,Shamu dropbackahbittoday.Buttellyo’, Lightning finishahracewithoutrollin’!InClass6, Tornado gotdeleadonbigboysuptotopmark.Shein Iron Duke Limbo butnotbymuchwid whoisindeAClass an’ Tornado, NerissaJ1 distime;sheretiredhurtan’brokenfrom . Ahhopedemsettlin’itdistime. Double Bluff an’ Devine BEQUIA HEINEKENEASTERREGATTA2011

‘big boats’Class7 and Lightning, Skyler inClassB.Ahlettin’goall onshestern.Upwindto Confusion . IronDuke Double Bluff an’ an’ Nerissa J2 More Worries Braveheart Skyler in Iron Duke still aheadah Devine ondeyheels. Iron Duke Skyler jamout trollin’ Skyler from from beat from still

of DEDERER WILFRED PHOTOS: ALL

BequiaHeinekenEasterRegatta2011Winners 2) 1) Class 1 2) 1) Class 2 3) 3) 2) 1) Class 7 2) 1) Class 6 3) 2) 1) Class 5B 3) 2) 1) Class 5A 2) 1) Class 4 3) Sailing Club. fo’ fourdaysindehotsun,allburntup.Ahfeellikeah80an’onmelastlegtoo. ah goodtime.Wego’meetatdeprize-givin’.Buttalkin’disan’dat,beenouthere But ahtellyo’what,surehefeelin’lotbetteroutdeydanunderdetreewatchin’! got ahgoodleadondeothersagainan’UncleLaceyin other boatsheadin’towardsit.Whenshegetback,wego’demessage. get acallfromdefortinSt.Vincentsoshegonenorthawayfinishmarkan’ Pride small onesinClass2.Well,isahgoodt’ingitain’trough,justpuffin’offdeshore. me butwhenahgetondenorthshore,seeanotherrescueboatfo’two tow himintodeAdamsbeachan’go’keepmeeyeoutfo’nextone.Well,not bottom upan’Bonnieheadpopfromunderwater!Goodt’ingheclosetoshore!Ah in deshore.Asahturnfo’look,spotshean’whenlookback, in ahgoodposition.Ahain’tsee As ahcruisin’goin’downbydeairport,seemegoodfriendBonniein power boat:hego’handledat.Iwaitfo’denextone.Well,ahain’tlong. she whitebottomup.Goodt’ingclosetoshorean’ownerrightdeywidhe an’ downwind.As big boystackfo’ondewayup. some goodpuffahwindoffdeairportbecausecomin’outnortheast.Dem others goin’aroundtoWhaleCayan’back.T’ingsgo’beahlittletrickytoday,itgot sight. Demlittleonesdoin’ahdown-uprightindebay,twolapsan’finish.De eight yachtoutdeywidallcoloursailan’28double-endersonderun:ahpretty tin’ inLowerBayan’deyachtsgotahtrianglebaytoosoitlookgood.Thirty- down dehatch.Demgotonemoredayan’wrapitup.Tomorrowwillsettleeveryt’ing. on TV.Deonlydifferenceahhope,demashoredeypeaceful!Timefo’getsomegreenones Wisdom Knowledge Never D My Love Lady G Lightning Confusion Skyler Ace Iron Duke Devine Shamu More Worries Nerissa J1 Nerissa J2 Tornado Ark Royal Scope International Bennita G Boatbuilder, racerandfishermanOrbinOllivierreistheCommodoreofBequia We willbeinCanouanahfewweekstime,doin’itagain.Keeptouch! Well delasthorngo,wehadgoodweatherallthreeracesan’aht’inkeverybody Ah getaboarddecommitteeboatjustintimefo’watch In demeantime, Tomorrow willbeanotherday,an’soitisbutgotahlittlemorebreeze.Westar- When ahwatchashoreinLowerBay,itlooklikedemprotestdeMiddleEastyo’see , LeoJoseph,Carriacou (MountainTopSpringWaterTrophy) (TradewindsCruiseClubTrophy) (BankofSVGTrophy) (BequiaSailingClubTrophy) (RBTTBankTrophy) in third , VerrolCompton,Carriacou (BequiaExpressTrophy) (AdmiraltyTransportTrophy) , DelaceyLeslie,Bequia , EkronBunyan,Bequia , MickelJoseph,Bequia , AlfieOsborne,Bequia , ConradSimmons,Bequia , KingsleyStowe,Bequia , StanleyHarry,Bequia , EmmanuelBethel,Bequia , AllickDaniel,Bequia , DicksonBynoe,Canouan , WayneGooding,Bequia , RashivSimmons,Bequia , RyanMarks,Bequia , MatthewMcLaurean,Canouan , VernonLaidlow,Canouan , KimaniJames,Bequia . Dat good,wego’sharedespoils.Meanwhile, , DamianHarry,Canouan Lightning Confusion on EasterMonday Main photo:ThesmallestboatsstartingfromLowerBay Inset:CompetitionwascloseinClass5A getbyderamp,ahdon’tknowwhathappenbutsee uptodefinishlineinfirstplace, Tornado Confusion presents Class6trophyto Parliamentary RepresentativeDr.Friday to Class5Bwinner The BequiaExpressCompanytrophywent so ahaskBonniewey holdsheownagainarounddemark Devine Iron Duke Double Bluff Skyler More Worries probably on his last lap. probably onhislastlap. crossdeline. Tornado secondan’ Iron Duke look like she looklikeshe Nerissa an’ hepoint Nerissa J2 Worries Bequia Bequia crew was

JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 , , had had ), evocative in ), evocative in Good Expectation , a fine and sweet- Alexander Hamilton . Good Expectation Good Expectation Ticonderoga , hoots and hollers from every- New Moon Ocean Nomad , and ‘our’ Nomad Genesis, Ocean Nomad, New Moon, Nomad, New Moon, Genesis, Ocean The next day’s race was in two parts, with The next day’s race was in two parts, with It was the raft-up, though, that really drove I raced the first day with skippered again by Mike Moreland, and we skippered again by Mike last. This was, we had a hoot, though placing plan. With nobody may now reveal, our secret set our line, behind us we were free to crack a few beers, hope for the vengeful broth- er of that 40-pound Mahi we’d caught to show up. How salty it would be to tack back into the harbor, sail onto our mooring under the eyes of the fleet while eating fresh-caught sashimi! Alas, he never showed. a half-time raft-up in a snug little bay near- by. I must confess I don’t remember much of the excitement of the day, except that there was plenty, and that I sailed with Todd Orrell on his sailing vessel (with a very shapely French crewmember aboard, perhaps explaining my memory loss?). home the appeal of the Regatta for all made the trip, as had all made the trip, a Nevis-built schooner. Judging by the many many schooner. Judging by the a Nevis-built a gander — young, locals turning out to have would seem the old, and in between — it as one could made as pretty a picture (nestled there want, a boat-lover’s dream and the stately between our square-rigger Herreshoff ketch, motoryacht ways no multi-million-dollar sitting on a bol- could match. One old fellow sloops in his lard, who’d worked Carriacou him of the day time, said the sight reminded shacks, when when St. Barth’s was mostly to fetch dinner folk walked down to the water of driving to out of the hold of a , instead smile to see it!” the grocery store. “Make me he said. enthusiastic crew throughout the Carriacou crew throughout the Carriacou enthusiastic fleet: Dream, Summer Cloud, Tradition, Pipe Sweetheart me. A more laid-back and convivial atmo- sphere between competitors one could not hope to find: children everywhere, swimming, repast, laughter, trading of yarns. So much

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY DAVE GOLDHILL . crew Ollie is TV actor Billy Campbell of “Once and Again” fame and crew Ollie is TV actor Billy Campbell of “Once and Again” Picton Castle The 32-footer was launched in June last year Part of the Caribbean’s local boatbuilding and racing renaissance, Part of the Caribbean’s local boatbuilding and racing renaissance, the newest Carricou sloop is aptly named Picton Castle And the party sprawled in every direction, across all the sloops of the Carriacou And the party sprawled in every direction, across all I’ll be back next year! Picton Castle fun being had, in fact, that the start of the second race was ‘delayed’ an hour and a fun being had, in fact, that the start of the second race half. Then a merry break-up, a terrific start for a really big rock (so close you one in every direction, a thrilling hairpin turn around and neck — on our blissful could count the baby crabs), and we were away — neck with a damned enjoyable last leg! As much fun as I’ve had sailing, maybe ever, terrific old films of St. Barth’s awards presentation afterward (we came second), some a -barbecue aboard in the 1950s and ’60s (before it became ‘paradise’), and the tales and forming friend- fleet, for hours afterward, knots of jolly sailors swapping single possible state of being, ships, a truly warm and joyous occasion. Perhaps the as the Carriacou sloops. aboard such companionable, such sweet and lively craft currently starring in cable network AMC’s new hit series “The Killing”. currently starring in cable network AMC’s new hit series

Good Expectation’s THE WEST INDIES REGATTA 2011 INDIES REGATTA THE WEST crew under First Mate Mike , but to the devotion of a good deal Picton Castle Genesis Good Good Good Good , nearing the end of her fifth circumnavigation , nearing the end of her fifth circumnavigation

Picton Castle

arrived a few days later, arrived a few days later, ), the waters greasy calm, ), the waters greasy calm, snugged into place, pro- , a bone in her teeth, gifted us GOOD EXPECTATIONS MET! EXPECTATIONS GOOD by Ollie Campbell Ollie by But the winds finally came, and We discovered, on arrival, what a gen- Picton Castle What followed was a bit of a slog. We What followed was a bit of a slog. We The regatta was conceived by Alexis Andrews, maritime photographer extraordi- The regatta was conceived by Alexis Andrews, maritime After a week of good fun at the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, the 180-foot- After a week of good fun at the Antigua Classic Yacht Ready to race. Carriacou sloops gathered along the quay at Gustavia, impressively backed by the barque Ready to race. Carriacou sloops gathered along the quay owner, Martin, couldn’t make it from the Classic to Saint Barth’s, but was willing to owner, Martin, couldn’t make it from the Classic to Saint let his sloop come for the races, six lucky erous vessel a Carriacou sloop can be, as, in close quarters, she allowed us to tack her up-harbor into Gustavia, neatly threading among the million-dollar yachts. She rounded up, sweet as a peach, a few boat-lengths to windward of the wharf, bit her anchor and backed down, stern-to, right next to a giant plas- tic stinkpot Beyoncé herself might’ve been proud to own, all without any means of propulsion save the wind on her well-used sails. The single present crew- member of the aforementioned yacht, having watched the whole operation from his railing, broke into applause as Expectation baking under the Caribbean sun, our little sloop a good deal more patient than we. Expectation a ripping good sail up to St. Barth’s, dur- ing which we caught, cooked and ate a 40-pound Mahi, the best-tasting fish of my life. Expectation lost our wind early on day one, spent lost our wind early on day one, spent two days drifting in lazy circles between Antigua and Montserrat (thoroughly tra- ditional, there is no engine in nouncing her behavior “Berry berry nii- ice!” He’d never moved for a fender. and the next morning, Day One of the regatta, disseminated the rest of her Moreland would make the delivery. naire, who, through the anthropological studies of his youth, had become enamored naire, who, through the anthropological studies of his of her sturdy, sweet-sailing of the West Indies, particularly of Carriacou, and thence of them eventually extended little workboats, the Carriacou Sloops. His appreciation not only to the building of his own sloop, long classic barque Anguilla and St. Maarten) and chockfull of sailing fanatics, made her way (via fun, this time at the West to St. Barthelemy for yet another dose of sailing Indies Regatta. racing traditions of the island of his energies toward reviving the boatbuilding and ways he’s going about this. he’d come to love. The West Indies Regatta is one of the naturally meant having as Reviving interest in the racing traditions of Carriacou and since many of her sloops as possible participate in the regatta, JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 choose theirpreferredsailconfiguration. es andopenclassesinwhichparticipantscould classifications werealsocreatedwithspinnakerclass- three butnotmorethanfourhourseachday.New so thatboatsofallsizescouldraceforapproximately year theregattateamworkedhardtocreatecourses Antigua SailingWeek,heldApril24ththrough29th.This tradewinds —upto25knotswerebackforthe44th The shoresideeventsandlogisticsrequiredtheener- Conspicuously absentpriortotheevent, ‘Well Done!’44thAnnualAntiguaSailingWeek REGATTA NEWS and thewinnersaretoonumeroustolisthere! two racesoneachofthefiveracedays,details petitors foritspreparationandexecutionofracing. Lammers receivedrapturousapplausefromthecom- standing racemanagementteamledbyKathy Alison Sly-AdamsandPaddyPrendergast.Theout- gy andhardworkofanarmyvolunteersledby Week 2011experienceonpage16. more informationvisitwww.sailingweek.com.

With some14high-poweredclassesallracingoneor Alexis Andrewsreports:The3rdAnnualWestIndies Reconnecting theIslandswithTraditionalSail See afirst-handreportofonecrewmember’sSailing For fullresultsvisithttp://result.vg/asw/xregatta. WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM / TIM WRIGHT TIM / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM light oftheevent. whose attendancewaswithoutquestionthehigh- to DanMoreland,thecaptainof place, waspresentedbyHarbourmasterErnestBrin Gustavia plaque,whichisusuallysetasideforfirst signed postersbyAragornDick-Read.ThePortde Carriacou Sloopscoffee-tablebooksandtwohuge by Jenny,posterartJeanPierreBalagny, pagne, alunchfortwoatLaPlage,paintedmugs Wegman, amagnumofLaurentPerriercham- Lazy Bonesbeanbag,sculptedartbyDavid Rhum toallvessels.Additionalprizeswereahuge Alexis AndrewsgivingoutprizesofContrebande Collectivité deSt.BarthwithLouLouMagrasand handicap numbers... entirely andnoneofthecaptainsknewtheirrating start boatonRaceTwomissedtakingourfinishtimes Antigua wasunabletoattendatthelastminute, given thecircumstances:ourraceofficerfrom winners? Well,thisbecametooambitioustoworkout, sloop Gustavia. LinehonorsweretakenbytheCarriacou boats aroundIledeBeouf,PainSucreandbackto were exhausted,thethirdracestarted,leading the boats.Aftersuppliesofpaté,wineandcoldbeer de Colombierwhereapicnicwasheldonboardall around IleFourchueandendedinaraft-upAnse in highwinds,offGustavia.Thecourseledthefleet loaded onschoonersinGustavia. by aSwedishfilmmadein1951showingcattlebeing Regatta byAlexisAndrews.Theeveningwasclosed was followedbyashortfilmofthe2010Carriacou graphs ofSt.Barth’sinthe1970sbyLoulouMagras Pitcairn Island!Thateveningaslideshowofphoto- including adescendantofFletcherChristianfrom Crews wereamixedbunchfromaroundtheworld Carriacou sloopsandaNevisschoonertakingpart. winds ofmorethan20knotsoffGustavia,witheight 180-foot sail-trainingbarque, evening, awelcomepartywasheldonboardthe all thesailorsonQuaid’Honneur.OnFriday Boulangerie bringingfreshcroissantsandbaguettesto Nevis, AnguillaandSt.Martin. 1st, withvesselsarrivingfromCarriacou,Antigua, took placeinSt.Barth’sfromApril29ththroughMay Regatta forCaribbean-builttraditionalsailingcraft A prizegivingceremonywasopenedbythe On theSunday,secondracewasstarted,again On theSaturdayfirstracewasheldinblustery The firstdaybeganwithEricfromtheChoisy Genesis . Weretheresecondandthirdplace —Continued onnextpage Picton Castle Picton Castle . , JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Cisa took Kalandia remains in while repairs remains in Nanny , and Discovery 55 was second from Hampton, while Fred rounded out the top three from Tortola. Aurora, Thor VI The ARC Europe fleet set sail on May 18th for For more information For more information visit www.carib1500.com. For more information ARC Europe Underway fleet has sailed from the Caribbean A multinational Nanny Cay on Tortola, The main fleet started from fleet was in atten- All but one of the ARC Europe top honors in the competitive division, earning first place in the rally from Tortola and from Hampton. Lady of Lorien and the Azores. visit www.worldcruising.com/arceurope. made landfall in Bermuda and six opted to head opted to head and six in Bermuda made landfall Craig’s on the East Coast. David direct for ports Stevens 47, following her dismasting. are carried out the Atlantic ready to sail across and USA to Bermuda, sailors ARC Europe. Seventy-seven west to east with sailed to the flags of 12 countries on 19 yachts flying Azores archipelago Bermuda, and will cruise the Portugal. before heading for Lagos in 5th. The second fleet start- British on May the next day. The two fleets ed from Hampton, Virginia Bermuda for some rendezvoused in St. George’s, for the 1,800-nautical social time and preparations on Faial in the Azores. mile Atlantic passage to Horta St. George’s Dinghy & dance on May 15th at the the Leg One prizegiving. Sports Club in Bermuda for Beneteau 57 . for making a racing start in Nanny ; second, Sam McKay, Hylas 54, Susie Q ; third, Charles , Hylas 54, Madrugada In addition, a series of fun prizes were awarded, This is the first year that the Atlantic Cup has been This is the first year that the After four days of 15- to 20-knot headwinds, the fleet Of the yachts involved in the fun competition, the 25 for BVI-to-Bermuda Atlantic Cup 25 for BVI-to-Bermuda 1st from cruising rally set off May The Atlantic Cup Of the 25 yachts that started the Atlantic Cup, 18 Agua Dulce. including the “First Out (almost) Last In Prize” was awarded to Richard Graver and the crew of the Hanse 400 on the 850-nautical mile passage to St. George’s on the 850-nautical mile passage to Hampton, Virginia Bermuda before turning west The fleet was split and other US east coast ports. competition and those between yachts enjoying fun cruising in company. World Cruising Club, run under the umbrella of the trans-ocean sailing organizers of the world’s largest the Atlantic from Gran event, the ARC, which crosses Canaria to St. Lucia every fall. The Atlantic Cup was previously organized by Steve Black of the Cruising Rally Association. Steve sailed this Atlantic Cup in his Pacer 42, arrived in Bermuda and celebrated at an Awards Ceremony at the St. George’s Dinghy & Sports Club, May 8th. The unseasonal weather caused a one-day delay to the awards ceremony. overall awards went to: first, Steve Black, Pacer 42, Madrugada Brigadoon Tortola, in breezy conditions. The 25 Virgin Islands in breezy conditions. Tortola, British embarked in length from 38 to 70 feet, yachts, ranging Cay, but being almost last in to Bermuda.

ALEXIS ANDREWS New , which sailed up all the way from Carriacou. Continued from previous page from previous Continued For more information visit: www.westindiesregatta. See a first-hand report of one crewmember’s West A BIG thank you to Port de Gustavia, Club Unesco, to Port de Gustavia, Club A BIG thank you The organizers look forward to welcoming you all again in 2012. com, www.facebook.com/westindiesregatta or twit- ter.com/westindregatta. Indies Regatta 2011 experience on page 13. the vessels for their attendance — especially to Moon Aragorn’s Studio, all our sponsors and the people of all our sponsors and the Aragorn’s Studio, as well as their generosity and support St. Barth’s for — JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 Mount GaysneaksinatothermajorCaribbeanregattasaswell—theirredhatsays Gardens, twodayspriortotheofficialSaturdayWelcomePartyatEnglishHarbour. “Red Hat”Party,thisistheeventthatkicksoffweek,yearatReef sailboat going24knots. Sailing Week,whichranfromApril24ththrough29th,thevantagepointofa Spirit 37cat,Iaccepted.Whatfollowsisoneman’saccountofthe2011Antigua nal 64-footMorellicatamaran,fortheweek.Soloagainaboard has hurricanesfollowinghim;readhisHurricaneBookfordetails!) Randy WestonthefirstdayIarrived.(Yes,thatfromSt.Barth’s,onewho wind onthelastleg).Thirdwasrunningintolegendarycatamaranskipper,D. Antigua inmid-April.Second,theweathercooperatedeverylegofway(withno for theeight-day“delivery”fromBVItoAnguillaSt.MartinBarth’s ways thanone.First,Iwasluckyenoughtoenjoythecompanyoftwoyounglasses Antigua SailingWeek,myfourthorfifth(theywerethatgood!)since1980,inmore at24Knots While SailingWeekofficialsarecarefulnottopromoteormentiontheMountGay Randy invitedmetocrewaboard I Joining theFatCats two andwritingmyribaldCaribbeanmemoirs(dueoutinlate2011). dream” —sailingacatamaranallaroundtheCaribbeandoingcharteror always worksoutwithCaptainMark.”Heck,I’msoluckythat“livingthe consider myselfprettylucky.Infact,onmyboatwehaveasaying:“Everything My luckrecentlycontinued,andqualifiesasanofficialmemoir,atthe2011 byMarkDenebeim Fat Cat , an80-footmodifiedmonsteroforigi- ANTIGUA SAILINGWEEK2011 Sanctuary , myIsland an impressivesight,though red racer,burnedatthedockonDayTwo(faultyelectrical?)andGuncatswere slippery polecompetitionandawetT-shirtcontestforLayDay. Antigua YachtClubinCobb’sCross,FalmouthHarbor.Organizersbroughtbackthe Harbour, aprettyspotwithhistoricarchitectureandbustlingdockyard,oratthe tripped allovereachother! while tryingtowalk.TheentirecrewoftheGirlsForSailraceteamgotonstageand free MountGaydrinksfrom2000to2200hours.Threedifferentguysfellintome The band,onabigstage,wasthumping,andthewell-staffedbarofferedunlimited “St. MaartenRegatta”not“Heineken”forexample.Thepartywasoff-the-chartsfun. —Continuedonnextpage skipper Amanda Below: Awinningcombination— Left: Fatcity.TheauthorluckedintoadreamcrewslotforAntiguaWeek The officialfestivitiesoccurredprimarilyattheEvent“Beer”TentinEnglish Fat Cat Fat Cat’s wonMultihullClass2. firstmateSarah,formerskipperTomand Titan , thehigh-tech JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

Fat Cat throughout the Caribbean. For more information visit www.ocean- throughout the Caribbean. For more information visit . Sanctuary After a few minutes organizing the backup , we resumed our “Victory Lap”, After a few minutes organizing the backup halyard, we on stage (twice) and had The best party was the Awards Party, since we appeared and writ- I spent the next week in and Les Saintes relaxing, articles and his memoirs Captain Mark Denebeim offers charters and is writing in this month’s Regatta See additional information on Antigua Sailing Week 2011 when all of sudden, BAM, down went the main again, this time the result of the when all of sudden, BAM, down went the main again, was completed with alone, headboard pulling out. The last hour or so of the race nonetheless maintaining a steady eight knots upwind. since English Harbour Rum our pictures taken (they took the red hat off my head, at Abracadabra finished was the rum sponsor!). Multiple adult beverages and dinner pink and green off the week in style with Tom, John and Randy sporting “race (s)attire”. for a week. It is clear that, ing, and then anchored in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica you agree? all in all, my luck is holding out pretty well, wouldn’t aboard breezetours.com News, pages 14 and 15. decreased slightly, blowing a steady 22 to 25 knots, while we purposely overstoodto 25 knots, while we purposely blowing a steady 22 decreased slightly, driver was umbrella. The first celebrity raised the large stern deck marks and even grinning from of Sailing Weeks, who was personality with a long record Bongo, a local halyard chafed That’s when the main cruising along at 17 knots. ear to ear while salon roof. crashing down onto the sheave and the came through at the We were back in Falmouth Harbor more than an hour and a half We were back in Falmouth before any other boat Fat , which Sanctuary ran over the port quarter of one Fat Cat , at the windward mark going 14 knots. again kicked ass, achieving a top speed of 23 Fat Cat See You Later , owned by John of Jupiter, Florida, we zipped around the of Jupiter, Florida, we zipped , owned by John Fat Cat has a huge fully battened main sail, a smallish self-tending jib and a large has a huge fully battened won the ensuing protest but received a DSQ for violating the First Commandment won the ensuing protest but received a DSQ for violating Continued from previous page Continued from Fat Cat Amanda and Tom fixed the culprits the next morning and Bongo and I engineered aAmanda and Tom fixed the culprits the next morning and The last two races covered two days from Falmouth to Jolly Harbour and back. The The last two races covered two days from Falmouth to I missed the third day of racing since I had a day charter aboard I missed the third day of racing Race Two was a wild and near-perfect ride. The wind was in the mid-20’s all day. ride. The wind was in the mid-20’s all day. Race Two was a wild and near-perfect And what a crew: with Randy calling the shots and doing some driving, Amanda, calling the shots and doing some driving, Amanda, And what a crew: with Randy But the real story of the week was the wind. It was howling! After very little wind It was howling! After story of the week was the wind. But the real It is also worth noting that the number of participating yachts was down signifi- of participating yachts was noting that the number It is also worth course averaging ten knots and won our class by almost 20 minutes corrected. course averaging ten knots The screecher bridle took most of the hit, stretching almost two feet in length. The screecher bridle took most of the hit, stretching by dinghy to the start linemad transportation scramble from English Harbour, arriving First place was in the bag soof the sixth and final race with but four minutes to spare. a turn driving. The wind hadit was “Celebrity Helmsman Day” with each of us taking outward 22-mile course featured 25 to 30 knots of wind with top true speed of 33 outward 22-mile course featured 25 to 30 knots of wind may ask? Because we were knots and an apparent of 44. How did we get to 44 you The most amazing part of this cruising along at 22 knots, hitting 24 several times! screecher. That’s when we story is that we flew just the full main and jib — no on the starboard side. noticed that the jib track was separating from the pedestal at the nuts and cracked off Turns out a couple of the long stainless bolts had rusted plywood. and almost all the others were loose due to rotting deck of the German teams, called Cat — thou shall not collide. knots. The day included some controversy as We blasted through the start and finished the 24-mile upwind downwind triangle and finished the 24-mile upwind downwind triangle We blasted through the start corrected. We were back in Falmouth Harbor more than ahead by over 45 minutes any other boat from any other class joined us. Average an hour and a half before we We call this a “Mega Horizon Job”. That’s when speed was 14 knots, at least. it base was separating from the deck, though noticed the jib traveler pedestal ourselves. appeared cosmetic, we told the 22-year-old blonde skipper and Sarah, her 26-year-old brunette mate — both and Sarah, her 26-year-old brunette mate — both the 22-year-old blonde skipper boat and sailing knowledge as well as keen looks — man- possessing vast amounts of boat, opening the wine and making us feel welcome. aging the crew, prepping the former skipper and builder of all the boat’s modifications Tony, Bongo and Tom, the the , while I helped on the foredeck and located since new in 1992, manned vision. John drove upwind, Amanda downwind. marks with my extrasensory sail. Why? Because the wind increased to over 25 knots lasted but an hour under tour and some snorkeling and the seas were an easy eight feet. An English Harbour filled the rest of our day, while for the Antigua Classic Regatta two weeks prior, it showed up for Race One flirting prior, it showed up for Classic Regatta two weeks for the Antigua On with 15 knots. lead to a central station via internal tunnels. screecher. All sheets and lines seven to effectively race her. She requires a crew of only cantly from last year: just 95 or so, when this event usually draws 200. The Bequia this event usually draws year: just 95 or so, when cantly from last has it that the competitors and rumor apparently drew away some Easter Regatta so many own- for the professional crews, required work permits Antigua government the least, the St. the recessionary times: at Most likely just a sign of ers opted out. down 30 percent as well. Regatta in March was Maarten Heineken — JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 at theCastarawaterfall Wesley andKirkabouttojump CLEAN, GREENAND SERENE TOBAGO

DESTINATIONS the Bocaandby6:00 Chaguaramas. Ourdolphinescortsawussafelyinto as wenavigatedthroughthecommercialboattrafficof at mypositiononthebow,lookingoutforunlitships The sleek,darkshapesofdolphinskeptmecompany by ElizabethBrouse boats goingbackandforthtotheBuccooReef. active groupofjetskisandacoupleglass-bottom could do.Theonlyswellsbotheringuswerefromthe but wedidhearmanytalesofwhatnortherlyswells was quitecomfortableduringtheweekwespentthere ing motionoftheboatagain.TheStoreBayanchorage at theTTSA,ittookadaytoadjustslightrock- shore. AftertheflatseasofouranchorageinTrinidad island, asTobagohasnodefinedleewardorwindward dark hillsofTrinidadonthehorizon. ting anchorintimetoenjoyabeautifulsunsetwiththe and motor-sailedonaclosereachintoStoreBay,set- About 12milesfromTobagowelefttherainbehindus many timestocompensateforourwestwarddrift. rent runninginthisareaandhadtoadjustourcourse Tobago. Wehadlearnedofthestrongwest-settingcur- then turnednorthtotraveltheremaining24miles continued eastalongtheshoreasfarGrandRiviere Kirk uptoweatherthestorms. was agoodtimetogobackbed,leavingCaptain coast. Asthesunrose,squallshitandIfiguredit waters andturningtofollowTrinidad’sruggednorth mooring linesat4:00 ing ofthetidesandcurrents,KirkIslippedour other sailorsdebatingthebestroutetotakeandtim- strike additionalitemsoffthelist). tation morethanoncetostay“justafewdays” Trinidad’s rathermagneticpull(havinggivenintotemp- passage toTobago,managingfinallybreakawayfrom October 14th,2010wesetsailforthe90-nauticalmile and gettingtoknowthemanyfacetsofTrinidad.On working onboatprojects,enjoyingtimewithfriends, months agoandspentlasthurricaneseasoninTrinidad, twins, WesleyandClaire.WesailedfromToronto21 rigged ketch,withmyhusband,Kirk,and12-year-old —Continuedonnextpage patronize oneofthebars,restaurantsorgiftshops). beach withanentryfee(waivedifyouaregoingto north endofthebayisPigeonPointHeritageParkand airport bringsyoutotherotianddoublesstands.At showers. Ashortwalkthroughtheparktowards tree providesshadefromthesunandshelter cream andcoldbeer.Ahugeumbrella-shapedalmond dors sellinglocalfood,souvenirs,homemadesoursopice port) isalovely,cleanpublicbeachandparkwithven- swim toshore.Atthesouthendofbay(nearair- haul uponthebeachandlocktoatree,oranchor posh resorts.Thereisnodinghydock,sobepreparedto white sandybeacheslinedwithpalmtreesandafew Bay, atthesouthendofisland,featuresspectacular to showusaroundoneoftheirfavouriteislands.Store Tobago homeforafewmonthsyearandwerewaiting I liveonboard Our dearfriendsJanandDavidonboard Swells tendtocurvearoundintothebaysofthis By mid-morningthesquallswerelesseningaswe After seeminglyendlessconversationswithmany Discovery V AM AM wewerethroughtheswirling withthekidssoundasleep. , a Bowman 57-foot cutter- , aBowman57-footcutter- Mistral call call JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

AM for a small fee, to view her art and visit with to view her art and visit for a small fee, PM After a week in Store Bay we pulled up anchor and A unique place for lunch on the beach in Castara is sailed to the charming little fishing village of Castara. sailed to the charming little fishing village of Castara. Tobago’s slogan, “Clean, Green and Serene” is exempli- fied here as you watch the fishermen leisurely mending their nets on the long sandy beach dotted with colour- fully painted buildings. Castara must be home to some talented artists as even the shop signs are works of art. A short walk across the playing field leads to an easy flat trail to the local waterfall which features a nice deep pool perfect for the more adventurous to jump into from the rocks half way up the falls. “Chinies Restaurant” with its second floor deck provid- ing an unrivaled view of the bay. The name of the res- taurant is not a spelling mistake as the owner/chef’s name is in fact Chinie and he does specialize in Chinese food (and obviously has a good sense of humour)! We dined on the best freshly made fried wontons and spring rolls to ever cross our lips and kept Chinie busy ordering one platter after another. A group at the table next to ours was enjoying an afternoon drink and intro- duced us to the Trinidadian-made fruit wine called “Vermoute” served with ice and a splash of Guinness, a perfect complement to the wontons. —Continued on next page her. Luise is also a dog lover and often takes in strays. a dog lover and often takes her. Luise is also at the time of or so dogs living with her The half dozen my kids and in the attention from our visit basked fresh herbs on our way with okra and Luise sent us from her garden. to 2:00 comes people into her home on Sundays from 10:00 into her home on Sundays comes people and didn’t PM at anchor Discovery V There are many fine snorkeling and dive sites in Tobago. A 20-minute taxi ride up into the hills towards the Fishermen mending nets at Castara, Fishermen mending with Left: No neon here yet lage of Buccoo where the festivities take place along a where the festivities take lage of Buccoo lined with a about a half-mile long, stretch of road fabulous bars and restaurants. The handful of (everything drum band began to play 20-member steel to Mozart) around 9:00 from Rihanna bling. More people filtered onto the street as the night bling. More people filtered onto the street as the night progressed and by midnight several hundred were in attendance. The DJ kicked in when the pan band fin- ished and the dancing continued. Shortly after mid- night, a truckload of Tobago’s finest soldiers showed up to check out the crowd and make sure all was peaceful — and it was. Jan and David took us to their favourite snorkeling spot on the Buccoo Reef and were distressed at the bleaching of the coral which had occurred in the few short months since they had been there last. The coral was white and fish scarce. Later Jan showed us their underwater photos of that same spot taken in June and the change was star- tling. We heard pollution and a rise in water might be to blame but no one seemed to have a clear explanation. Charlotteville proved to have some of the best snorkeling we experienced in Tobago. Mount Irvine Hotel will bring you to the Kimme Sculpture Museum (luisekimme.com). Luise Kimme carves and paints beautiful, larger-than-life-sized people and creatures from tree trunks and large pieces of wood. Her carvings are beautiful and it feels as if you are mingling with a crowd of majestic beings. She wel- stop until almost midnight. There were stalls and tents midnight. There were stalls stop until almost for gam- food and artwork, and some set up selling Continued from previous page Continued from At Bago’s beach bar, located on the smaller beach at The delicious aroma of the soup at the table beside us The morning after arrival we were off to the big city of arrival we were off to the The morning after Store Bay (laundry/internet café next door) we met an Store Bay (laundry/internet café next door) we met an interesting assortment of friendly locals and within a few days had gathered a larger group to join us for “Sunday School”, which lived up to its reputation as a great party. We took route taxis up into the small vil- stirred our appetites and soon we were lunching on “cow heel” soup from the adjacent snackette. This flavorful soup is considered “man food” and we had lots of fun with the men in the bar discussing the merits of the soup and the qualities it is rumored to imbue. Perhaps what they said was true as two ladies at the table behind me were unabashedly making eyes at my husband. One even bra- zenly asked if I could move my chair a bit as I was obstruct- ing her view! Seeing that we shared impeccable taste in men, Hilda, Hattie and I made plans to meet up that Sunday night at “Sunday School” (a local jump-up with steel band music) for some dancing and limin’ as I made a mental note not to leave my husband unattended! a bar selling three beers for TT$25 (about US$4). Given Kirk’s hydration philosophy, we managed to go through several rounds (it was 5 o’clock somewhere) while Claire and Wesley happily shopped for the latest pirated mov- ies for TT$10 apiece from a stand down the street. Scarborough, on the other side of the island, to checkon the other side of the island, Scarborough, has a and Immigration. Scarborough in with Customs selling vibe with many street vendors fun marketplace David came sweets to ladies’ lingerie. everything from taxis (cars us how to identify the route along to show to get to or honk as they approach) will flash lights TT$6 or less,and points in-between (for Scarborough checking in.and give us a hand with about US$1) from Immigration wasAlmost directly across the street — JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 little icecreamandslushystand“givesthemsome- past 40yearsandTobagowheretheygrewup).Their Toronto wheretheyraisedtheirkidsandlivedforthe Glenda (whosplittheirtimebetweenhomein where weenjoyedmeetingtheowners,Cliveand nightly slushyoricecreamatastandalongthebeach finesse andflavour.Justnorthofthedockwehadour give thestandardchickenorfishmealagreatboostof third-floor balconylookingoverthetownwherethey lovely dinneratSharon&Phoebe’sRestaurantonthe eat inCharlottevilleandourbestmealbyfarwasa bordering theplayingfield.Thereareseveralplacesto library acrossthestreetfromCustomsandImmigration, towards thefishmarket.Thereisanewandmodern and fruitcanbehadfromthevanjustdownstreet office, butthebestdealandvarietyoffreshvegetables priced freshmarketnearthedock,besidetourism souvenirs, rumandfood.Thereisasmallover- fishing fleet.Woodenshacksliningthemainstreetsell dinghy (sternanchorrecommended)andanactive in thearea. the northendofbay,joininghalfdozenboats say “Didyouseethat?”Weanchoredoffthebeachat ing downtocomealongsideandpeerupatusasif unison outofthewavesacrossourbowandthenslow- friendly podofdolphinsentertainedus,jumpingin anchorage ofManO’WarBayatCharlotteville.A north endoftheislandandrelativelysheltered — Charlotteville doeshaveadocktowhichtieyour A fewdayslaterwehadaveryboisteroussailtothe Continued frompreviouspage had beenscarce.Backonthemainland,wetooksol- guide, whoinformedusthatinrecentyearsthebirds disappointment withthelackofactualbirdstoour with theirdramaticlongwhitetails.Weexpressedour beautiful andwedidspottheRedBilledTropicBirds spotted perhapsfourbirdsintotal!Thescenerywas (it seemedmostlyup)thisruggedlittleislandand round tripplusagenialguide).Wehikedupanddown fair pricewassoonnegotiated(TT$80totakesixofus birdwatching onthisuninhabitednaturesanctuary).A Little TobagoIsland(wehadreadofthewonderful just afewminutestofindsomeonetakeusover side oftheislandtovisitvillageSpeyside.Ittook this time)totravelthe20minutesorsoother enjoy thesnorkelingandthenhitbeach. and thebeachwecouldswimoverfrom anchored sotherockwaspositionedbetweenourboat anchor onthenorthsideofManO’WarBay.We from thewaterofflargerbeachwhereboats best inmyopinionwasaroundtherockprotruding snorkeled inthewatersbelowFortCambleton,but waterfall) andsomegoodareasforsnorkeling.We with manysmalldesertedbeaches(atleastonea boats belowismarvelous.ManO’WarBaylined picnic table.TheviewofCharlottevilleandthefishing colourful floweringplants,withtwocannonsanda to FortCambleton,asmallgrassyknollborderedby the wintermonths. thing todo”saysClive,whentheycomedownspend We tookadaytrip,boardingthelocalbus(abigone A pleasanthikethroughtownanduphillbringsyou Discovery , Below: EnjoyingournightlyslushiesatCharlottesville Left: WehaddeliciousrotiatasnacketteinSpeyside Above: Wesley,TonyandDavidatBago’s,StoreBay Speyside Inn. and friendlyconversationwithsomenicefolksatthe school beforewalkinguptheroadtohavecoldbeer ace indeliciousrotiatthesnacketteacrossfrom boat projectsandhaveavacation! proved tobeanidealplacetakeabreakfromthe weeks enjoyingClean,GreenandSereneTobagoasit Windwards. Wecouldhaveeasilyspentacouplemore be-named HurricaneTomasboredownonthe fully cuttingourvisittoTobagoshortasthesoon-to- On October29thwehightailedittoGrenada,regret- JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 10 11 12 2002 13 2100 14 2158 15 2255 16 2350 17 0000 (full) 18 0041 19 0129 20 0214 21 0256 22 0338 23 0419 24 0501 25 0545 26 0630 27 0719 (new) 28 0810 29 0903 30 0958 31 1241 1053 1148 21 22 23 0420 24 0501 25 0543 26 0624 27 0706 28 0751 29 0838 30 0928 1021 July 1116 DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 1211 5 1305 6 1358 7 1450 8 1540 9 1630 1720 1812 1906 JUNE & JULY 2011 OF THE MOON MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “ and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire June DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 1137 5 1230 (new) 6 1325 7 1419 8 1511 9 1603 10 1653 11 1742 12 1832 1923 13 2016 14 2112 15 2210 16 2310 17 0000 (full) 18 0010 19 0117 20 0200 0250 0336 make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. charts. Fair tides!

AM . PM

May issue about May issue about DESTINATIONS Caribbean Compass’s

in Suriname?

for five years and also have a home in Suriname. You will find lots of infor- nd now for something completely different: why not visit Suriname — or why not visit Suriname completely different: nd now for something hurricane season there? even spend the

Elaborating on the ‘Info & Updates’ item in the ‘Info & Updates’ item Elaborating on A Detailed pilotage information on Suriname is available Petra and Jan Willem Versol have been cruising the Caribbean on the 40-foot ketch Before you leave, stock up in one of the huge and well-stocked supermarkets in If you stay over during the hurricane season, try to arrive before the first of July: Once in Suriname, you’ll want to make a trip into the impressive jungle to enjoy Suriname gained its independence in 1975 and you will find many reminders of Officials are easy on you and you are not required to start the Immigration proce- Officials are easy on you and you are not required to In Domburg moorings are available at low cost, but you can also drop your anchor In Domburg moorings are available at low cost, but you Entering the Suriname River is a piece of cake as the entrance and the whole river Entering the Suriname River is a piece of cake as the Suriname’s popularity among yachtsmen is growing, perhaps because it is one of yachtsmen is growing, perhaps because it is one Suriname’s popularity among Suriname is located well outside the hurricane belt, at a distance of approximately belt, at a distance of well outside the hurricane Suriname is located Why Summer Not Arriving aboard a pirogue at Galibi on the Marowijne River, Arriving aboard a pirogue at Galibi on the Marowijne River, near the border of French Guiana onwards and the last bus to Domburg leaves Paramaribo around 5:00 onwards and the last bus to Domburg leaves Paramaribo by Petra and Jan Willem Versol by Petra and Jan at www.cruiserlog.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suriname. Witte Raaf mation on their website, www.witteraaf.info, or contact them at pjwversol@hotmail. com; they are happy to be of assistance. Paramaribo. But chances are that you fell in love with Suriname and you never want to leave! Emancipation Day should not be missed! Bring your camera, as people are dressing up for the celebration and proud to show themselves. the abundance of nature and the overwhelming hospitality and spontaneity of the people living in picturesque villages. Although tours with the bigger tour operators can be quite expensive and you to travel in a group, you can do and see the same things on a budget and on a more private level. Touring the country is not restricted to road trips; you can do it in your own yacht. The Commewijne River is navigable for a long stretch and if you go up on the Cottica River, you can drop your anchor in the middle of a jungle near one of the many lovely marron settlements. Be polite and you will be guest of honour in their villages. Holland, but the country is also very much itself as a reflection of its inhabitants. The indigenous people are Carib Amerindians and they still populate the large inte- rior, together with “marrons”, who are descendants of slaves who fought themselves to freedom in the 18th and 19th centuries. After the abolition of slavery, contract labourers were invited — Chinese, Indians and Indonesians from Java — so the cur- rent population is an interesting mix of cultures. They all have their own (religious) holidays, which are shared among the different ethnic groups. Overall, 20 languages are spoken in Suriname, but almost everyone speaks English. dures immediately upon arrival. They understand that you need time to clean up dures immediately upon arrival. They understand that US$40 per person) and your boat before heading into town to obtain a visa (around other costs are involved here visit Immigration with three copies of your crew list. No and you are allowed to stay for three months. Clearing with Customs is not neces- sary; they are not interested in yachts. Your crew list, stamped by Immigration, will serve as outward-bound clearance. in six to eight metres. On the waterfront you’ll find several supermarkets, an ATM, in six to eight metres. On the waterfront you’ll find several and Irene, who not only sells internet, pubs, little restaurants, a vegetable market — run to town from 6:00 fruits but also takes care of your laundry. Local buses up to Domburg is very well buoyed. And even better, all buoys are lit. The estuary up to Domburg is very well buoyed. And even better, show alarming figures seems rather shallow and your depth sounder will sometimes freighters also go in and out as it picks up floating mud, but don’t worry: big bauxite outer marker at low water and without running aground. Start your approach at the up to Domburg, where most you can navigate upriver on one tide past Paramaribo upriver from Paramaribo, but of the yachts are moored. Domburg is only eight miles a much safer place to anchor as there is less current. the safest countries in South America AND something completely different: friendly America AND something completely different: friendly the safest countries in South The people combined with impressive flora and wildlife. and extremely hospitable a but almost everyone speaks English; Suriname, official language is Dutch, much part of the Caribbean. Visas are needed for most CARICOM member, is very Dutch, but easily obtained once you are there. The cur- nationalities, including the (SRD) and ATMs are all around. rency is the Surinamese dollar 500 miles from Trinidad & Tobago. The trip directly from T&T will take four to six Tobago. The trip directly from T&T will take four to 500 miles from Trinidad & current (which runs against you) and luck. If you start days, depending on wind, a better angle to the wind. from Barbados you will get , why not hop onward to Suriname? Guyana and Suriname share the Guyana and Suriname not hop onward to Suriname? Guyana, why (6°N, 56°59’W), you’ll find Nieuw-Nickerie at the entrance of which Nickerie River, an overnight And from there it is only western capital” of Suriname. also called “the Paramaribo (5°50’N, 55°10’W). trip to the capital, JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 Jewel andPigeonCays,offUtila’swestend.Theylieclosetogetherarelinkedby a helicopter. In thelastlighthetookoffhisshirtandtwirleditoverheadinfashionof ing. Whilebailing,thewindblastedhimsofarouttoseahecouldnotswimback. of ourboatssavedalocalpastor’slife.” want tokayakthe than theonewehave,whichmightaswellbeakindergartener’scrayondoodle.We Sky Diving,then?OrJackDaniel’sVacationBibleSchool?” best sourceforinformationabouttheUtilaCaysisCaptainMorgan’sDiveShop.” whole daydrinkingFlordeCañarum. instinct foradventureequaltoorgreaterthanthatofasandfly. else couldtherepossiblybetodo? When wetellpeoplethistheyblinkasifwe’vepeedintheircoffee.No… Bay Islands.YllithiaandIarecertifieddiversbuthavedecidedwedon’tfeellikeit.

● ● ● ● ● ● TYRREL BAYYACHTHAULOUT Every curioshopvendspostcards,andamongtheseisalwaysanaerialshotof I walkoutwishingI’dheardthepastor’snextsermon.Adazzler,tobesure. “And ourskippergotthere Pastor wasfishingoffthecayswhenhismotordiedandboatstartedsink- “Watch out,”Jamiesays,“thewindkicksupintheafternoon.Theotherdayone Inside, IinformabubblyexpatnamedJamiethatwe’relookingformapbetter “That’ll do,”Yllithiasays. “That seemanoddjuxtapositiontoyou?”IaskYllithia.“No?HowaboutJimBeam Now we’restrollingintotown,becauseaccordingtotheHondurasTipBook,“The Snorkeling, bicycling,hiking,kayaking—we’vedoneallthis.Alsowespenta Plenty, Iwanttosay,solongasyoucanseepastyourownnoseandhavean That’s howtouristsintroducethemselvesonUtila,thirdlargestoftheHonduras “Where’d youdivetoday?”

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CARRIACOU scuba? What —Continuedonnextpage has beenawayalongtime.Where?Iask.Thefishermanshrugshisshoulders. ask. Theboy’sfatherwasmurderedbyagangonthemainland,andgirls’ on abouthowjealousIwasoftheircandle-liteveningsspentunderthestars. here. Sí,shesaid,andIletoutalongwhistlesmiledlikehorse,yammering nothing butblanketsondirt. pers. “Underthatboat.” invites metostrollwithhim.“Martalivesherethosefourchildren,”hewhis- “Barbie”. Yllithiaunderstands doesn’t speakSpanish.Thechildrenareashorenow,andthegirlspointingsaying as MartaandtriestoflatterYllithiabygoingonaboutherbeauty,but Mayan bloodsprinkledatopthecocktaillikebitters. They appearwild—almostferal.Halfsharkandhalfpanther,withafewdropsof to failedambitions. of talltreesandgreengrass.Alsobytheabandonedconcretefoundation,monument tery. Aquietparadisiacalpancakeofacayoiswhatwewant. rattle uswhenweseetheminthefleshatlast.It’stooearlymorningformys- densely packedaccommodationsofathousandpeople. a thickconcretefootbridge.Onthesefewacresliefivechurches,oneschool,andthe The fishermanwhispersthatthechildrenlackbasicstaples.Istherenoman?I Now Corrugated metalproppedagainstthesideaddsafewsquarefeetofshelter.Inside An oldfishermancomeswanderingtowardthebeachfromamongtreesand A youngwomanloungesintheshadewithatoddleronherlap.Sheintroducesherself Kayak noseskidsuponbeach.Threechildrenpaddletowardusfromfartherout. Fortunately DiamondCayinterceptsus,firstinthechain.I’mpleasedbysight The postcarddoesn’ttrytosellthesecayosasparadisesomuchamystery.They B &CFUELSENTERPRISE Easily approachedfromCarriacou, UnionI.,PalmI.&PSV Tel/Fax: (473)443-9110email: [email protected] my FUEL •OILWATERICE face makeslikeatomato.FlashbackstowhenIaskedMartaifshelived Yllithia, abouttomakesand-angelsonaparadisiacalpancakeofcayo Contact: GlennClementorReynold Belmar The bestfueldockintheGrenadinesfor: Cheapest pricesintheGrenadines Unobstructed dockincalmwater Suitable forLargePowerYachts 16-18 feetofwateralongside Petite Martinique that , allright,andprovesitwithatomato-facedblush. JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23

N A E . I couldn’t B

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ull www.AdventureHighSchool.org Phone: (800) 927-9503 www.AdventureHighSchool.org Phone: (800) 927-9503 FFF && C • Full High School Grades 9,10,11 & 12 • University and College Prep • Individualized Student Programs so that faster students are not held back while students that need more attention are not left behind • Individual and group tutoring • Special guided education programs for boat owners, cruisers, travelers, or anyone doing home schooling with limited access to educational guidance and materials. • Full four year programs, single year programs, one month booster or tutoring programs. Individual tailored programs as needed Mateo invites me on a hike across the island. It should take about 30 seconds, by Mateo invites me on a hike across the island. It should One end of the island pours itself out into a sandbar. Over this, two opposing currentsa sandbar. Over this, two opposing island pours itself out into One end of the themselves on near two geezers sunning groceries. We paddle Time to get those ask. on these islands?” I “Is there a mercado “but it’s closed.” “Sure,” one of them answers, we paddle back to Diamond Cay. The whole Still in no mood for mystery, digging their fingers into a tub of peanut butter, Marta and the girls take turns how he itches to spread the word! But why not preach Mateo is disappointed — oh reads a few versus about Jesus weeping over Lazarus. Mateo opens the bible and whimpering like kicked dogs, Mateo comes back to earthOur ears ringing, the children Jesus is cruci-five por all.” “It goot to be cristian becau a pile of them looking likePresently Yllithia gives the children a coconut. I found on his person and begins Mateo pulls a foot-long butcher’s knife from somewhere my calculations, so I agree. He wants to make me a present of his my calculations, so I agree. He wants to make me a present me his bed. have heard that right. But yes, I did, he wants to give —Continued on page 44 I’d much prefer Water Cay carpeted with colorful leaves to bald dirt and rake marks colorful leaves to bald dirt Water Cay carpeted with I’d much prefer to forget about me on the shoulder and says — when he slaps — a.k.a. maintenance it this time. applauding the rare phenomenon of Nature clap. We go there to enjoy splash up and loom like ethereal thunderheads. Marta and her brood itself, but overhead corpses draped hundreds of skinned fish Cay. Around them lay a flank of Jewel over ropes. the fisherman has been replaced by Marta’s younger herd awaits us, although brother Mateo. on at her heart again. Meanwhile Mateo goes on and which causes Yllithia to clutch if I with great imagination be called English. He asks in what can only loosely and a Luterano. A lengthy discussion ensues as to whether am Cristiano and I say Sí, the the end I tell them it’s like being a Catholic minus Lutheran is a Christian. In saints and five-hour services. that He excuses himself and returns with a bible a bit anyway for good measure? which reminds me of something my old karate sensei looks chewed upon by rats, belt the better — it shows you practice. used to say: The uglier your (perhaps divine) Mateo assumes a conquistador pose Suddenly seized by inspiration and screams “ bible for me in case Lutherans have missed the point: and decides to summarize the Mateo rebukes me. Coconutsmanna rained down straight from heaven, I explain. But is a crime. I’m not exactly trem- are worth five lemps each and therefore coconut picking to open the coconut. bling at the prospect of litigation, however, and urge someone magic trick. The kids take crunching out a little hole. I consider this a most alarming the toddler gets soaked. turns sucking out the sweet water. Everyone laughs when At Diamond Cay, three children paddle toward us… S A

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GRE for all your including AA

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WELCOME TO WATER CAY NO NO COCONUTPICKING NO LITTERING MAINTENANCE FEE LPS 50 P/P THANK YOU makes a killing. Burn This is a fantastic racket, I think. Legitimate or not, this We beach the kayak and walk about 12 steps, in opposite directions, when I lookWe beach the kayak and walk about 12 steps, in opposite Water Cay, when we circle back to it, is heavily laden with pasty tourists. Advertised Water Cay, when we circle back to it, is heavily laden with Morgan Cay, another rental islet, is bigger. It features a sprawling brown house Morgan Cay, another rental islet, is bigger. It features Señor Jack Neil has made a heavy investment in ambiance. A dozen baby palms Señor Jack Neil has made a heavy investment in ambiance. “We’ll go back,” she says, “with a mountain of food.” she says, “with a mountain “We’ll go back,” up is Jack we blow past them. Next for the metropolized cayos, Still in no mood There are many cayos to visit before the wind spanks us like naughty children, I wind spanks us like naughty cayos to visit before the There are many Located opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 The author checks out the pagoda on Morgan Cay some leaves, lounge on a stump, look out for tourists, collect. I’m about to tell him some leaves, lounge on a stump, look out for tourists, back and see that Yllithia has been intercepted by a shiny black man. I leave them beback and see that Yllithia has been intercepted by a shiny pen pals, meringue partners.a while. Perhaps they will find much in common, become points to the sign: Eventually I stroll over. He wants a maintenance fee and on as paradise for picnickers and overnight tent campers, pretty much anyone on Utila as paradise for picnickers and overnight tent with a boat will take you to Water Cay for the right price. wedged between big shade trees and two docks: one for boats and the other for wedged between big shade trees and two docks: one us giddy. Yllithia makes sand- people, as evidenced by the pagoda. The place renders inches of water and almost angels. I perform a backflip off the boat dock into two asunder. Energy well spent. blow out both my knees. We kiss. I rip four coconuts hunker in wooden casings, thereby protected from the vicious afternoon wind while hunker in wooden casings, thereby protected from the stunning mood-setters. their roots seek purchase. One day they will become Neil Cay, a private islet with a yellow house in the middle. At present nobody appears Neil Cay, a private islet with a yellow house in the middle. to be there, which is all the invitation I require. say, and we shove off with promises to return. On the open water I tell Yllithia the return. On the open water off with promises to say, and we shove her heart and swoons about. and she clutches at family predicament —Continued on next page —Continued on JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Above right:Boomvang:MeganBowerhangsouton Above left:Petaltothemetal.Suchdetailshelped aboard Kamaloha Charlie Freeman,whocruiseson Rebecca ofVineyardHaven , becameessentialcrew by herowner,MarioPirri Below: Rebecca Antigua Classics! Latifa bySteveManley On Boardfor Heron isusuallysinglehanded win theConcoursd’Eleganceinherclass , waiting for the breeze to fill in for Race Four , waitingforthebreezetofillinRaceFour the fisherman prepares tolower mark asMeganBower Heron Neck-and-neck with drivesfortheupwind

Juno, ALL PHOTOS: STEVE MANLEY STEVE PHOTOS: ALL

of thejust-launched32-footer regatta drizzle,ordrool.Here,it’sokaytocovet.Youcan’thelpit. sloop approached AlexisAndrews,theownerofAntigua-basedCarriacou may wanttotrounceyourcompetition,butyoudoitnicely. don’t competeagainst,youwith.Youapplaudyourrivals. save itforSailingWeek,whichfollowsimmediatelyonitsheels.You year’s often-variableskies,theyachts(andcrewshirts)gleamed. Gaia call isforlaundryservice,althoughwenoticethat100-footItalianspeedster Chippy,” oneofAntigua’scustomwoodworkingshops.AnotherregularVHF without hiredhelp.)TheVHFisfilledwithcriesfor“Chippy,Chippy, too —andevenmoresooftheownerswhodoupkeepthemselves, varnishing. (Wedon’tcovetthemaintenancepart,butwe’reinaweofthat, families andlocalworkersoutvarnishing,sanding,polishing, there areasmanyaircraftlightsatthemastheadsanchorlights. low-flying clouds—aren’tenough.WatchoverFalmouthHarbouratnight, poured intotheseclassicdesigns. d’Elegance, thepre-racecompetitionthatrecognizesloveandattention handed fromItalybyherownerandwinnerofclassintheConcours Nearby, weswoonover expense, lovingly-restored-to-perfectionHerreshoff-designed upwind, merely12,700. schooner, whosetotaldownwindsailareais19,375squarefeet; the heart-stoppingreplicaofNatHerreshoff’s1910136-footracing J-Boats, and supportyachts.Likethey’retheretoprovidescale.Asifthetowering sail, hermulti-storeyblackchutesportsagiantredM.Formagnificent. yourself, andgleamingrodriggingyoucouldn’treachapalmaround.Under steer afewlegs.Charlieon met theownersof — andgivenaslotasforedeckcrew. thing youknow,he’spaintingthedeck,upachairsandingthemast Haven next year… ing, you’relikelytoleaveAntiguaafter Classics planningyourreturn a premiumone-Bay. part withit,aMountGayAntiguaClassics Regattaredhatcommands prepped forbynotmissingalltheother MountGayparties).Ifyou’ll ed bythenot-to-be-missedMountGayRedHatParty(whichyou’ve lobster night(freedrinksandbisque)followsuit. ground. Otherrace-eveningevents,suchastheMaine-sponsored pés, withtheday’shelicopter-shothighlightreelflowinginback- post race:free,andfree-flowingprosecco,winebeer,cana- with complimentaryespressoandcroissantsinthepre-racemorning; wealthy), doesthewholethinginclassicstyle,settingpartyline for Maho Bay,USVI;fromRockport,Maineinthesummer.(Thisfall,watch Elissa andMegan,home-schoolingaboard,theyrundaychartersoutof Schmidt. Duringthewintermonths,withtheirtwoyoungdaughters, Camden, Maine,in2003byherowners,Nigel“Twig”BowerandBonnie action andbeingactivecrew. Splitting thecompetition,butalsomyduties,betweensnapping win herclassinthecrewedseries. also theboat’schef!), handled byherfull-timeskipper,TarquinPlace,fromTasmania(he’s in stormyweather.(Remember,Ionlytookthephotos.)Impressively from her class’sConcoursd’Elegance). who racedherownyacht,the56-foot design builtinMartha’sVineyard2001,andthesubjectoftwobooks. Haven volunteered (andwasgraciouslyaccepted)ascrew. 54-foot yawl Handed, Isailedaboardthelegendary,OlinStephens-designed1934 Antigua YachtClub. were seensportingthestylishbluevolunteershirtsprovidedby From sweetlittleCarriacousloops(seventhisyear,withtheaddition We Hunter fromthecruisingboat But ifClassic-gawkingisgreat,participationevenbetter. This isamostgentlemanlyregatta:Leaveyourtestosteronebehind,or Swarming overthe68-boatfleetisanentirebeehiveofowners,crew, And sleekblack In thiscorner,at95feet,fromSaoPaulo,,thedazzling,spare-no- The classics share fender-room-only dock space with luxurious megas The classicssharefender-room-onlydockspacewithluxuriousmegas Don on —Seemoreimagesonnextpage aboard Steve ManleyandAnnVanderhoofcruise theCaribbean Even ifyoulimityourparticipationtothe partiesandtheboatgawk- Shortly aftertheawardsceremony,finalgunforClassicsissound- Antigua Classics’mainsponsor,Panerai(watchmaker-to-the- Heron For thenextfourraces,Ialternatedbetween And from the yachtie tradition of always-happy-to-lend-a-hand, crews And fromtheyachtietraditionofalways-happy-to-lend-a-hand,crews Ultimate participationbyacruiser,however,wenttoSusieStandhope, Me? Isignedupasaphotographer.Inthefirstrace,Single- Heron sports a full-size washer and drier in her lazarette.) Even under this sportsafull-sizewasheranddrierinherlazarette.)Evenunderthis Beach House,Asseance,Farhaven,Idunno,DolceVita and Genesis is owned by Brian and Pamela Malcolm. She’s a Nat Benjamin is ownedbyBrianandPamelaMalcolm.She’saNatBenjamin —a52-foot1928JohnAldendesignwasfamily-builtin Velsheda Receta. inJohnnyDepp’snewmovie,TheRumDiaries.) Asseance

Heron Stormy Weather tough toknowiftheslickondockisjustpre- 14th startoftheregatta.There’saseavarnish.It’s start makingforaysontothedocksdaysbeforeApril withanoffertohelpmaintenancechores.Next and Marie , bothschooners,andcompetingwitheachother. Rebecca ofVineyardHaven foundacrewspoton Stormy Weather Ranger , 180 feet long, with a so fine you could cut , 180feetlong,withabowsofineyoucouldcut Latifa Kamaloha — whose own 150-plus-foot masts puncture —whoseown150-plus-footmastspuncture . Which,appropriately,wasindeedsailed , a70-foot1936WilliamFifeyawl,single- New Moon ArcticTern placedthird.Shethenwentonto , a self-professed schooner junkie, , aself-professedschoonerjunkie, Spirited LadyofFowey ), to Guiding Light a few harbours back and afewharboursbackand Elena arrivedearly,and Rebecca ofVineyard Rebecca of Vineyard Rebecca ofVineyard , belleoftheball— , even getting to , evengettingto and more andmore (andwon Atrevida . JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

Marie The Dutch-built The Dutch-built super ketch slices her way downwind , a 1906 gaff-rigged 12-meter yawl, Kate struts her upwind stuff — all 12,700 square feet of it Elena was saved from a Right:

Atrevida

The 1923

trip to the scrapyard, restored to per- fection, and sailed from Brazil for her first Classic Regatta On Board for for Board On

Photos by Steve Manley Antigua Classics! Antigua Continued from previous page Continued from — here in the Single-Handed race, later placed second in her class here in the Single-Handed race, later placed second in Above: A shutterbug’s dreamboat: JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 marina dockforthejudges.Theyalllookedfantastic, up inalltheirfineryandstruttedstuffatCarlo’s was meanttohaveprogressed!) little 30-footerupright?Ithoughtmodernyachtdesign just onepersonwhenittakessixgorillastokeepmy Kairos class. (Thelargestwasthe109-footstaysailschooner, by Greensmith atthehelminunder45-footclassand handed race,whichwaswonby single-handed raceandtheConcoursD’Elegance. 19th. TheeventstartedontheThursdaywithboth old girlsreadytodobattlefromApril14ththrough name forhotracers)thrownintothemix. — withofcourseafew“SpiritTradition”(another rigs andlotsofmastsbeing beady eyeofCaptainKennyCoombs—longkeels,gaff nized asusualundertheauspicesofAYCand finally hadtimetogetinvolvedwithClassics,orga- Antigua CSAmeasurer)beingfairlylightthisyear,I the ClassicRegatta.Well,measuringduties(Iam Streaker even ifthesailingisnotveryfast’ Just bobbin’along!‘Thecrewhavefun,

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia The 21entrantsfortheConcoursD’Elegancedressed Eighteen boatsturnedoutforthe12-milesingle- A recordentryturnedupthisyear—60beautiful Those ofyouwhoknowmeandmylittleraceboat, Through the Eye(brow)sThrough the Libertine . Isn’titgreattoseethesebigboatssailedby , willwonderwhatIamdoingwritingabout of a Raceboat Sailor of aRaceboat , steeredbyDonWard,intheover45-foot de rigueur

Springtide fortheevent

withOllie Tel: (758)4520299 by SandyMair ANTIGUA CLASSICYACHTREGATTA2011

Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. on andalsoracedagainst)“ was theMarconiyawl but finallywinnershadtoemerge.Theoverallwinner beautiful oldboats,nowallwithhugemodernrigsand America’s Cupcrewsandskippersstilldrivethese to challengeforthe‘Cup’inThirties.Current faster ofthetwo.Whatapityshenevergotchance from theoriginalJ But rock-star professionalcrew—flewpastusat14knots. disappeared asthesebehemoths—loadedupwith Rebecca mark bythe136-foot whiz byyou.Butbeingsqueezedoutatthewindward get achancetoseeallthebigglamourboatsasthey first (thereversefromus“serious”regattaguys)isyou onds oncorrectedtime. and whowereonlyseparatedattheendby14sec- reaching coursefasterthansomeregularCSAboats, bred isathoroughbredinanyone’slanguage. is stillwinningtoday.Athoroughbredathorough- Fastnet, transatlantic,buoyracing—in1935/36and Olin Stephens-designedboatwoneverything— lass again—andstillFAST.Itisnosurprisethatthis an extensiverefitinItaly,nowlookingjustlikeayoung showing. Itisgreattoseeherbackinourwatersafter Caribbean byPaulAdamthwaiteandheryearswere sally known,shewasracedHARDalloverthe S&S yawl Elena One advantageofbeinginaslowboatandstarting Ranger wonherdivision,asdidthebeautifullyrestored FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE tostarboardwasquiteasight.Thewindjust Stormy Weather , there-builtJBoat,gothercomeuppance Fax:(758)4520311 Velsheda Ranger Latifa

. WhenIlastsaw(andsailed LEE SMITH LEE Stormy toportandthe139-foot around themostly Zemi Cloud hotted-up heavily modifiedand Andrew Robinson’s were soonovertakenby over theline,butwe got agreatstart,first used asworkboats.We them stillactivelybeing little sloops—mostof seven ofthesetough prettiest ofaclass Carriacou sloopandthe newly built32-foot myself on course tofinish.Ifound the 20-mileOldRoad so everyonegotaround about tento12knots, the breezefilledinto knot ofbreeze.However, and forecastingone decidedly pessimistic with Windgurubeing started ontheFriday , whichseemstobethe . Thetopsailschooner The regattaproper whobothsailed andEliFuller’s ” assheisuniver- New Moon Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners Summer , a e-mail:[email protected] sloop clear winnerinherdivision.TheRhodes-designed time. Seal Timepiecefortheboatwithbestcorrected Trophy andaspecialeditionPaneraiRadiomirBlack bullets inherclass.ShewasawardedthePanerai was theoverallwinnerofregattawiththreesolid could nothappen. there weresomescorestobesettled—butalasit home forawell-deservedbeer.Whatshame,as until theracewasabandonedandeveryonewent final race.Thesebeautifuloldgirlsjustdriftedaround usual suspectsallmadetheresults. 24-mile reciprocalCannoncourse.Andofcoursethe 60 milesofracing.The1949S&Syawl seconds separatingtheminoverallelapsedtimeafter have madeoftoday’smaterials. sails. IwonderwhatSirTomandCap’nNatwould the racecourse. Bob, OldBob”canbeseenandheardformilesaround crew’s brightredT-shirtsandchant“OldBob,Old not aftertheskipperbutanobscureLondonbeer.The out there. I wasgivenadayoffandverypleasednottobe shortened Butterflycourseofapproximately12miles. and thesebeautifuloldboatsslowlydriftedarounda that diedtoalmostzeroasmorningbecameafternoon might evengetonthepodium. as manyclassesintheregattasIusuallygoto— and Sunshine, IrisJ,Gaia,Libertine,Bolero,StormyWeather the beautifulschooner that’s forsure. world sailingcalendar.I’llseeyoutherenextyear, established asoneofthe‘must-do’eventsin a greattime. cares? Mostpeoplegotaprizeofsomesortandallhad over Zemi great 12-to18-knotbreezeandeveryonefinishedthe Old Bob the bowsprit?Me?Don’tbelieveit.Butcheersfor and whoonearthisthatpink-attiredfigurehead Parade ofSailinEnglishHarbourfollowsthisrace, is notveryfast.Solastplacebutwhocares—forthe neer). Imustsaythecrewhavefun,evenifsailing (which ofcoursegladdenedmyheartasacivilengi- boat forhersizeeverbuilt.She’sgoodsolidconcrete a time. best partyontheAntiguaYachtClublawnformany Elizabeth Jordanandthe“Commodorables”—for — andofcoursethedancetroupersledbyCommodore clarinet hitthosenotes.Outcamemydancingshoes there isamongsttheClassics;QuequegJohnon can turnupandjamforthecrowd.Andwhattalent classic inhisownright,sothatwoulddo! concluded thatskipper/ownerGeoffreyPidduckwasa were raisedtoseethisboatintheregatta,butitwas Biwi Magic were prettysimilartoDayOne,the‘modern’6-metre Carriacou Sloops.Inmostotherclasses,theresults the seriesand So, the1957RobertClark-designedketch Monday dawnedwithNOwindforthefourthand In theotherclasses,CarloFalcone’sFife, Day Twodawnedwithazephyrofbreezebuteven For fullresultsvisitwww.antiguaclassics.com. Surely theAntiguaClassicYachtRegattaisnow The racestartedinlightwindsbutitfilledtoa On DayThree,Ialwayssailwith Saturday nightisalwaysthemusicevening:anyone La Sirene beatthe Biwi Magic Velsheda Sunshine confirmed herstatusasastaroftheregatta. Ranger comingfirstinClassicsB.Afewbrows wereallwinners.Wow,Iwishthere Summer Cloud beat wonfirstplaceforClassicGRPClass . Old Bob Old Bob Zemi beat Ranger beat Elena, Juno,LoneFox,Orlando, Velsheda didn’tfeatureatall.Butwho mustbeabouttheheaviest twotoonewithonly47 Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint . Summer Cloud Iris J intheJstosquare Old Bob finallytriumphed Bolero —named Lone Fox Mariella inthe wasa . , , JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 Strings onspectacularParadiseBeachfrom3:00 well intothenightatMountPleasantPrimarySchool. were gooddespitetheheavyrain,andStringBandsBigDrummingplayed than 300yearsisaboutsharingwithfamilyandfriendspastpresent.Thevibes guests andlocalsforfree.Thisculturalcustomthathasbeencelebratedmore Pleasant rolledouttheirgoodnessinhospitalityandservedhundredsofmealsto job isImmigrationofficer)declinedmypayment.ThisyearthefriendlyfolksofMount over tothebartentforabeverageandmyutterdelightbartender(whosereal stewed beef,mutton,chicken,potatoesandplantain.AfterthefoodblissIstrolled both rolledintothesameegg-likeshape.Nextweresucculentandwell-seasoned starry WestIndiesskyandbegantoovereat. and cookthetraditionalMaroonmeal.WithzealItookmyheavyplateunder The samelovelyladiesthatareservingupgenerousportionsroseearlytoprepare may needalittleclarification:hereitmeanscookedoutside,overfireinlargepots. with largesteamingpansfilleddelicioussmokedfood.Theterm“smokedfood” next fewhourswasmagical.Ieasilyledtoaverylongtablebountifullyladen Pleasant, paidthekinddriverEC$3.50,andenteredDayOneoffestivities. dead”. ArmedwiththisinformationIcaughtabustothelovelyvillageofMount the villageofWindward,Mrs.MinaMcLaren(age94):“Mommyputoutaplatefor colour -vtTolandandleaveadesertedisland. The dictionarydefinitionis and entertainment. different andsceniclocalesontheisland,alwaysaccompaniedbygreatfood,music three-day eventhostedbytheGrenadianBoardofTourismissharedamongfour String BandMusicFestivalthispastApril29ththroughMay1st.Thisfun-filled rum shops.The“kayaks”couldalsoeasilybethefriendliestpeopleonplanet. tion offivetoseventhousand,itfamouslyhasonegasstationandapproximately150 It’s hardtogetabadviewhere.Asmallislandofabout13squaremileswithpopula- lower portionoftheGrenadinesandhasnumerousotherislandsvisiblefromitsshores. Carriacou issituatedbetweensisterislandsGrenadaandPetiteMartinique.Itformsthe hurricane season,one“muststop”istheuniqueGrenadianislandofCarriacou. The BestoftheFests: group) fromTobago,andtheUnionIslandYouthGroup.Theyallwerefantastic. Kabwit DrummersofSt.Lucia,theTivoliGrenada,WHIM(ayouth Tobago UnitedTraditionalfolkdancers,theZenaidaDancersofSt.Lucia,Lapo line-up: CCOBigDrumGroup,CarriacouFolkLifeInstitute,Carriacou, crafts bylocalcrafters,andShakespeareMas.Tomyknowledgethiswasthe2011 string bands,dancing,singing,extravagantcostumes,greatfoodanddrink,arts talented RicardoKeens-Douglas,thiswasonerockingpartythatincludedBigDrum, Caribbean forthetheatricalstageversionofMaroon.Producedanddirectedby out avarietyofperformancesbymorethandozengroupsintotalfromalloverthe Culture” beach naptogearupforthemaineventonSaturdayevening:“TheCradleof came alivefor“StringsindeCity”.ThemusicwascentrallylocatedattheJupanear 2:00 www.carriacoumaroon.com orwww.facebook.com/discovergrenada. local [email protected]. businesses there. in L’EsterreBaythenearfuturefor easier accesstoParadiseBeachandlocal for EC$25.00pernight. can nolongeranchoratSandyIsland(unlessanemergency).Mooringsareavailable or youcouldbuyapassforthetwodaysEC$50. for theMaroon&StringBandMusicFestivalin2012—youwon’tregretit. wanting onemoreencore. and —returningforthesecondyearfromTortolaheadlinerLashingDogsleft us Youths, BrotherResistanceofTrinidad,arevisitfromtheincredibleTivoliDrummers dance, theCentralSerenaders,BaysideBoys,MenfromTheMainland,Ghetto food andgoodtimes.WerockedthebeachwithlocalZhakaZulu’sacrobaticbottle hurt fromsmilingafterthisincrediblebeachlime.Youknowthedrill—moremusic, Traditional dancingwasjustonehighlight The Sunday,MayDay,wastheperfectlay-dayunderclearskiesforKings of On the First therewassteamedbasmatiriceandmyfavouritecoo-coo(acornmealmush), Each yearadifferentvillagehoststhe“VillageMaroon”.Whathappenedover Ask sixdifferentpeoplewhat“maroon”meansandyouwillgetanswers. I wasfortunateenoughtoattendthesecondannualCarriacouMaroonMusic& If you’reheadingtoward12degreesNorthforpleasure,ahaul-out,ortoduckin The parkopenedat5:00 The GrenadaBoardofTourism,inGrenadianfashion,sparednoexpensetoroll For moreinformationontheCarriacouMaroon &StringBandMusicFestivalvisit The CarriacouChildren’sEducationalFund providessuppliesandscholarshipsto www.campkayak.org. Camp Kayakisacreativeartssummercamp forthelocalchildren: • HowtogivebackCarriacou: • TheSIOBMPArangershaveitongood authoritythatmooringswillbeadded • SincetheinceptionofTheSandyIslandOysterBedMarinePark(SIOBMPA)you • Thisyear’sentrancefees:forCradleofCultureEC$30,KingStringsEC$25, More Facts: There isanewmessageofdefinitionfortheword“maroon”:runawaytoCarriacou CARRIACOU MAROON AM . Chanceofrain:100percent.

at theBelAirHeritagePark. Saturday morningfrom10:00 Noun - A fugitive slave in the West Indies; A brownish claret Noun -AfugitiveslaveintheWestIndies;brownishclaret PM andtheshowkickedoffat8:00 by LauraSmith AM to2:00 My favourite answer is by a resident of Myfavouriteanswerisbyaresidentof PM PM until10:00 thecapitalcityofHillsborough this pointIsuggesta tour bybusortaxi.At left foraquickisland still havesometime All thisandyouwill near thebusterminal. vegetable marketarea check outthenew seaside lunch,and provisioning, graba museum, dosome shops, takeinthe browse themany an excellenttimeto building. Thisisalso Board ofTourism from theattractive main jettyandacross the entranceto PM PM . Myfaceactually andlastedtill

JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29

The climb was gruel- Despite the chilly ling but fun, and we finally made it to our destination. There is not much in terms of facilities. An old wooden shed provided the women with a little pri- vacy to change into bathing clothes (no biki- nis on this trip!). atmosphere (the cold spray from the falls could be felt at least 20 feet away) almost every- one headed for the water. I had planned just to wade in one of the pools for a little while but the cascading water proved irresistible. I proved irresistible. I howled as the water Across The Caribbean. by Arlene Walrond ALL ASHORE… to take us to our destination. It was a public holiday so traf- to take us to our destination. AM Highest Waterfall Highest Hiking to Trinidad’s Trinidad’s to Hiking Trinidadian writer Arlene Walrond crews aboard a charter yacht. Her work has Visitors to Trinidad aboard yachts can ask at one of the marinas about arranging a I wanted some history (not the stuff of history books) of the area but the only Next, our garbage was collected and bagged, the guides made a head count, one All too soon it was time to leave. The area surrounding the base of the fall is akin The rest of the time was spent exploring and taking photos. The fall is so high — By the time we reached the trailhead my lungs were under . Luckily as By the time we reached the trailhead my lungs were The next two hours passed quickly, as it always does when you’re having fun. We disembarked about half a mile from the trail because the driver claimed that theWe disembarked about half a mile from the trail because St. Joseph is a picturesque town that still boasts a lot of old colonial buildings andSt. Joseph is a picturesque Our party (members of my church congregation) consisted of 25 people ranging in church congregation) consisted of 25 people ranging Our party (members of my of the rainy season, I had the pleasure of hiking to the Last August, at the height recently been published in the anthology guide and transportation for this trip. A guide that the author recommends is Dwight Huggins, tel (868) 743-7056. residents that I saw were some young men who didn’t do much to enlighten me except to say there’s a shortcut across the mountain to Maracas Beach. At the end of the day the voice of our party was of one accord — we had fun! took the lead and the other brought up the rear. The descent was less tiresome and more sure-footed, and within an hour we were out on the road once more. to a large amphitheatre enclosed by vertical rock walls. Imagine our surprise, when we climbed out to go change our clothes in the aforementioned wooden shed, to see a party of about a dozen people using the shed to have a cookout. We invented ways to hide our nakedness with towels as we changed. approximately 298 feet — it was impossible for me to capture in one shot. Several smaller parties came and left while we were there, including a European family of four with a baby in a stroller. I wondered how they made it on the treacherous slope with that thing when I had so much difficulty! My question was answered a minute later when the older child, about three years old, headed straight for the pool with the ease of familiarity. I asked if they had been there before and the father said yes. soon as we hit the trail, the temperature was noticeably cooler. At the beginning, the soon as we hit the trail, the temperature was noticeably area (I hope it’s been restored trail is wide; farther along there’s a dilapidated picnic declaring the mountain a by now) and there’s a huge billboard with information animals in the surround- wildlife sanctuary since 1935. We heard the cries of many benefit. I did see an unusual ing trees but none made themselves visible for our to be a butterfly with a looking creature, though. It was bright blue and appeared and it looked like an old wingspan of about five inches, but then the wings closed like it before. brown wrinkly leaf. I have never seen or heard of anything Unwillingly we abandoned our natural Jacuzzis to have lunch, which was a happy affair with everyone sharing and tasting each other’s food. Several huge stones served as tables and seats. road was so narrow that he would experience difficulty turning his vehicle. As it turnedroad was so narrow that he would experience difficulty turning he’d already left, scheduledout he was wrong, but we had no choice but to walk since all exposed skin with mos- to return for us at three. At that point everyone painted how far we had to go still to getquito repellant (a little prematurely, for we had no idea road was steep so that sev- to the trail). The sky was overcast but it was hot and the young people raced ahead. Iteral times the older folks had to stop and rest while the if we walked backwards. I don’twas fun though: someone suggested it would be easier of laughter. know if it helped but the crazy scheme generated a lot hammered my body. After the initial shock, however, it wasn’t so bad. Also the sun, somewhat reluctantly, was making an appearance. is the gateway to the Maracas Valley. (Unfortunately, our driver sped through the townis the gateway to the Maracas Another half hour along and we made rendez- so there were no photo opportunities.) From there we followedvous with our two guides midway into the Maracas Valley. mountain in the northerntheir car, at a much slower pace, to the foot of the highest not to attain the summit butrange, known as El Cerro del Aripo. Our mission was waterfall in Trinidad. rather we were headed for the Maracas Falls, the highest fic was light on the highway. Within half an hour we were miles away, just east of Within half an hour we were miles away, just east fic was light on the highway. city, at the entrance to St. Joseph, the first capital Port of Spain, our present capital of Trinidad. Maracas Falls drops nearly 300 feet into pools ages from five to 55. We gathered at the fly-over in Gasparillo, where the hired maxi at the fly-over in Gasparillo, where the hired maxi ages from five to 55. We gathered taxi arrived at 8:00 Maracas Falls in the northern range in Trinidad. I must point out that the rainy range in Trinidad. I must point out that the rainy Maracas Falls in the northern to visit, but unfortunately that’s the only time the falls season is not the safest time and trail is narrow and precipitous for part of the way, can really be appreciated. The fall- slippery. One false step and you could find yourself the stony terrain is wet and you depth to the forest floor. Or if you’re lucky, ing through space to an uncertain the on the side of the mountain, or in the branches of might get caught in the brush not predicament could be dangerous if your party does tall, ancient trees. Either include a trained guide. JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 tion, anchorwindlasses,easiernavigation,moreAC life better.Bettersails,easiersailhandling,refrigera- read anddreamtofallthethingsthatcouldmakeour were inexpensive.Whileweanchoredrested, Anchorages werereadilyavailableandlocalfoodstuffs simple andinmostplaceswewerereceivedwarmly. went intosettingone’sanchor. anchoring wasverycarefullystudiedandgreatpains not haveanchorwindlassesandthereforetheartof sene oralcoholstoves. boats usedkerosenelighting.Manycookedwithkero- alternator tokeepthemcharged.Asaresultmany as mostboatshadjustafewbatteriesandsmall their life. onions andothervegetablesstoredsoastoextend Vaseline themandhowtorotatethem.Howkeep We learnedhowtobuynon-refrigeratedeggs, mark thecanswithindeliblemarkerastocontents. how toremovethepaperlabelsfromcansand cussion ofhowtomaintaincannedgoods,including larder. Manyboatshadonlyiceboxes.Therewasdis- and hopingforthebest. seas. famous sailorswhopitchpoledandbroachedinheavy considered environmentallycorrect).Wereadstoriesof head tocalmbreakingseas(todaythismethodisnot ahull learned howtorunoffinfrontofastormorlie ing todealwithstormconditions.Asaresultwe forecasting wasatbestagoodguessandworsthav- always respectedamongthecrew. help usknowourpositionandthegoodnavigatorwas fortunate wehadafathometer.Therewaslittleelseto as wellcompassandhelmsmanerror.Ifwewere calculations factorssuchassetanddriftofthevessel Reckoning. Wewereverycarefultocomputeintoour lel rulerandkeptourpositionsthroughDead remember.) Weplottedonpaperchartsusingaparal- before GPS,forthoseofyouwhoaretooyoungto [email protected] www.barefootyachts When wearrivedatourdestination,lifewaspretty Most boatsdidnotcarrylargeanchorsasthey How toconserveenergywasanotherimportantarea, Our preparationsalsoincludedpreparingtheship’s We alsohadtoprepareforbadweather,asweather IN Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL

. We spentserioustimepreparingfortheworst We readabouthowonecouldpouroildownthe Celestial Navigation.(Thiswas We tookcoursesinCoastwiseand involved workinanumberofareas. years past,preparingtogocruising

Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters very accustomed,stopworking. makers andrefrigerators,towhichwehavebecome we loseanACoraDCchargingsystem,ourwater- to takecareofandmorebreakdownsdealwith.If maintenance ofourequipment.Wehavemoresystems etcetera). Ontheminussidewehavecostand tion, hotwatershowers,watermakers,betterstoves, casting), andthatwearemorecomfortable(refrigera- ting) andthatwegettheresafer(betterweatherfore- no doubtthatwegettherequicker(bettercourseplot- cruising lifestyles,bothpositiveandnegative.Thereis changes thattheequipmenthasimpartedtoour equipment thatIamcommentingonbutratherthe become accustomedto,considerthatitisnotthe writing againstalloftheequipmentthatwehave ic orelectronicmaven.BeforeyouconcludethatIam now putevermoretimeintofindingthelocalmechan- Whereas beforewespenttimemeetingthelocals, where weinvestourtime—andthusourselves. not worktoseeifwecanfindareasonablesolution. time reviewingtheequipmentonboatthatdoes areas havebecomemoreandlimited),wespend anchor (morelikelypickupamooringasanchorage result, whenwearriveatadestination,after teries, invertingthemforACelectricandsoforth.Asa ing water,gettingweatherforecasts,chargingourbat- we simplyletourmachinesdothework.Dittoformak- to “feel”thewindonourfaceortrynotecurrent; that hasbecomelargelyelectronic.Wenolongerhave water, winddirection,etcetera)andwehaveacockpit conditions aroundus(windspeed,speedthroughthe to thislistagroupingofgaugesthatcanmeasurethe many havechartplottersandradaraswellAIS.Add Today whenacruisingboatmakesfordestination, Cruising Equipment: CHANGES AND CHALLENGES These changesinthecruisinglifestyledetermine access, watermakers,laptops,etcetera. in realitysupportedbysimplemethodsof tems, weatherforecastingthathadabasis refrigeration, satellitecommunicationsys- cell batteries,solarpanels,windvanes, high-output alternatorswithlargedeep- of one’swallet.Electronicnavigation, boggling pace,restrictedonlybythesize innovations forsailorsgrewatamind- months andyearspassed,thenumberof ly magazinetomonthlymagazine,asthe carefully monitoredfreshwatersupply. rinsed offwithwaterfromourmodestand took ourbathinsaltwaterandthen dreaming, wejumpedintothewaterand and thelistwenton.Whenwefinished and DCpowertosupportourlifestyles… boat thatdoesnotwork spend timereviewingtheequipmenton let machinesdothework.Asaresult,we learn celestialnavigation,forexample;we where weinvestourtime.Wenolonger Changes inthecruisinglifestyledetermine From boatshowtoandmonth- by FrankVirgintino

written thefinalverseofhispoemlikethis: commodity andnotjustanotherprofitcenter. is lowandasaresultthelocalsseeyouprecious those destinationswherethesupplyofcruisingboats and trytounderstanditbeforeyousetsail by. Lookatyourcruisingareacarefully.Evaluateit you! Thesecondpartistotakethepathlesstraveled not havemoreequipment—themay you addtoyourboatbecausethedangeris,may times, satisfactiondecreasesaswell. where demandexceedssupply,pricesrise.Andmany high-priced restaurantafteranother.Weforgotthat fees, high-techmechanicalmarinaandone profit center.Andwegetfleeced.Entryfees,harbor ity ofourplasticcardswebecomethenextarriving gets. Betweenourneedforservicesandtheavailabil- focus willbeonourwallets.Webecomemovingtar- or aplethoraofmooringsandchainrestaurants,the boats. Whetheritisboatboys,orImmigrationofficials, but rathermeetthosewhohavemetmanycruising longer meetthosewhowanttoacruisingboat blind spot.Infactwehaveanumberofthem. hard onconvenienceandsafety.Howeverwehavea carry betterelectronicstoavoidcollisions.Wework heavier anchorssowecanbebetteranchored.We ing bygettingbetterweatherforecasts.Wecarry for howwewillbeseen.Wereducethedangerofcruis- encounter alongthewaynordowetakeresponsibility But wedonotspendtimepreparingforwhatwill boats forwhichwetakegreatinterestandpride. cruising. Wespendagreatdealoftimeequippingour changes, wemustlearnhowto stand astoitseffects.Whenthecruisinglifestyle at firstglanceandalwaysextremelydifficulttounder- offshore drillingrigs? our equipmentthatnowmakessailboatslooklike That largetoweronthebackdeckthatsupportsallof VHF radios?Ahugeinventoryofdeep-cellbatteries? Do wereallyneedallthosegauges?Tworadars? equipment oneshouldputonone’sboattogocruising. summation wouldendonadiscussionofhowmuch (www.freecruisingguide.com). If RobertFrostwereasailor,perhapshewouldhave The solutionistwo-fold.Becarefulwhatequipment We forgetthatifwetravelthebeatenpath,willno However, changeissurreptitious.Itnoteasytosee Were itthatisthewholestory,sumand Frank VirgintinoistheauthorofFreeCruisingGuides And thathasmadeallthedifference. I tooktheonelesstraveledby, Two coursesdivergedinaseasogrand,andI— Somewhere agesandhence: I shallbetellingthiswithasigh manage change .com . Cruise to togo JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 MAIN MINT MIST MUST SNIT STUN TUNA STAIN ANIMUS Zar-Par MAT NIT NUT SAT SUM SUN TAM TAN TUN AUNT Dolly’s Answers Dominican Republic Dominican Republic Cruising Guide Cruising Guide Cruising Guide Trinidad Cruising Guide Cayman Islands Cruising Guide www.marinazarpar.com Boca Chica, Dominican Republic Boca Chica, AM AN AS AT IN IS IT US AIM MAN www.caymanislandscruisingguide.com www.dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com www.haiticruisingguide.com www.jamaicacruisingguide.com www.trinidadruisingguide.com M Marina Here are 30 words you can make from the letters of the word “TSUNAMI”. If Here are 30 words you can make from the letters of Compliments of you find any more, check with a dictionary to make sure that you have spelt you find any more, check with a dictionary to make them correctly! FREE CRUISING GUIDES FREE CRUISING . , by

, by Nancy , by Nancy

, by Steve Dodge, third According to the publish- Available from shops in the The Cruising Guide to the This completely redesigned Available at bookstores and Facts and Comments on If you’ve ever sailed into Available at Adams Book edition ©2005. White Sound edition ©2005. White Sound Press. Paperback, 270 pages, B&W photos, maps and illus- trations. ISBN 0-932265-76- 6. US$19.95. er, this is the only general, of comprehensive history Abaco, Bahamas available, and it will add much to your appreciation of a visit to this captivating and history-rich cruising ground. The well- illustrated appendix on boatbuilding in Abaco, where generations tradition- ally relied on the sea for their livelihood, is the icing on the cake. Abacos or via www.wspress.com. Virgin Islands and Simon Scott, 15th edition (2011 – 2012). Cruising Guide Publications. Paperback, 418 pages, full color sketch charts and photos. ISBN 978-0- 944428-91-7. US$31.95. edition celebrates 30 years of providing reliable informa- tion about sailing in USVI and BVI waters. The authors’ goal is to “assist cruisers with navigational information (including GPS coordinates) and steer them to the most interesting sights, the best restaurants and shopping, the finest resorts and the leading marine facilities.” The guide even includes a 27 by 17-inch waterproof planning chart covering the British and US Virgins. chandleries in the Virgin Islands or via www.cruising- guides.com. Calliaqua and the Adjoining Areas: A Historical Travelogue Edgar Adams ©2009 Paperback, 92 pages, B&W photos, maps and illustrations. ISBN978-976-95271-0-2. Young Island Cut, St. Vincent, and wondered, “What’s up with that big cross on the little island?” this book will tell you the real story — yes, it is a man’s self-designed tomb — and a lot more. The southern coast of St. Vincent is now the island’s yachting hub, but in early colonial days Calliaqua — the bay lying between Young Island Cut and the yacht-charter bases around Blue Lagoon — was the first maritime capital of St. Vincent and, according to the author, “considered as hav- ing the best and safest har- bour for visiting ships, espe- cially during storms or hur- ricanes”. Edgar Adams fills you in on this lively area from then till nearly now. Centre, Kingstown, St. Vincent (on the cruise ship wharf). DIVERSE DIVERSE DESTINATIONS Abaco: The History of an Out Island and its Cays Abaco: The History of an Summertime is all about hurricanes, haul-outs and trips home, right? Well, haul-outs and trips home, right? Well, Summertime is all about hurricanes, hopefully you’ll also have time for dreaming about and planning future cruis- hopefully you’ll also have time providing in-depth information about three es, and here are some books diverse destinations. Summer Reading: Summer JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 enjoy theexperience. nice dinnerondeckwithagoodbottleofwineand strongest duringthefullmoonon15th.Havea watch theshow. friends. Takethemoutforanighttimesailandjust 15th istheperfecttimeforaget-togetherwith you onyourchosenheading.Thefullmoonthe ative inspiration. where youwillfindgoodcommunicationsandcre- to letdisagreementsonboardblowyouoffcourse. creative projectsonboardbeforethe22nd.Trynot pick upuntilthe13th,soworkonclearingany satisfying headwayincreativeprojects. the reliefofhumorinyourboatworkandmake misunderstandings inyourlovelife,youwillfind damage torelationshipswithcrew. controlling yourtempertoavoiddoingirreparable Practice lookingforthepositivesideofthingsand your workplace,whetherit’sonboardorashore. ration andcreativeenergy. ner untilthefullmoonbringsyouasurge ofinspi- a partytocelebratenewexperiencesinyourlife. 15th withthefullmoon.Invitefriendsonboardfor will occuraroundthe10thandculminateon choose thebestcoursetoyourgoals. an openmindtosuggestionsthatcouldhelpyou with someoneclosetoyou,probablyfemale.Keep tides willturninyourfavorthenearfuture. lust. Justbeyourusualcoolselfandtrustthatthe the 15thwhenfullmoondousesfiresof that areaofyourlifesailsclosetotherocksuntil moods onothers. humor inthesituationanddonotinflictanydamp about thesetemporaryroughseas.Lookforthe squalls inyourlovelife.Trynottobepickyorpetty lights foragreatviewfromthepoopdeck. aboard, upanchorandsailawayfromtheharbor around thefullmoonon15th.Invitefriends you willhaveagreattimeandnewstimulation www.caribbeancompass.com We areon-line: Communications withtheloveinyourlifewillbe As passioncools,yoursenseofhumorwillkeep Home iswheretheheart—andonboard Inspiration iswaningandnauticalbusinesswon’t While youmightweathersomeargumentsand Aspects leantowardspossibleroughweatherin Difficulties inromancewillbeyoursailing part- You willbeonacollisioncoursewithlove,which Creativity willbeassistedbycommunications Romance willbeebbingandcommunicationin Your creativitycouldbeadverselyaffectedby As yourloveinterestsailsofftonewadventures SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) JUNE 2011 CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

Protect MarineLife Tell thistoyourfriendsandfamily. So let’scareforthesea— Splashing inthewaterorplayingonbeach, We allhavefunatthesea, Shaking knees. Cold breeze. Body soakingwet. Beautiful sunset. Please tellthistoALLyourfriendsandfamily.” Your garbageIurgeyoutodisposeofproperly— You enjoythesunset,youleaveandcomeback. You comeforasplashwhenthesunishot, Here iswherebondingstrengthforfriendsandfamily. She says,“Themomentsyouenjoyherearepriceless,socherishthem. Deliver thismessagetoyourfriendsandfamily.” She says,“Protectmarinelife,careforthesea— The angeloftheseacomesforthandbeginstospeakme. As Ianalyzemylife,thenicecoldbreezeembracesme, The desiretobemoreproductiveinlife. Nature instillswithinmethedesiretosurvive, I closemyeyesreflectingonlife, Playing inthesandIbegintofeellikeachild. I sitonthesandadoringGod’sblessingstomankind, The breezesendschillsthroughmybody, The wavesrushtotouchmyfeet, The sungoesdownsoromanticallyonthesea, parlumps marooned OFF WATCH and soprevail. Against thatshowhaveallourselves, But we Intent onhumblingouraudacioussail Which initscyclicpatternsseemstobe And guidesherhandtoovercomethesea And makesmefeelcontentandsafewithin, It doesendure. That inthefaceofnature’sforce How strongourlovemustbe I wonderasseehercalm That sheagaindefeats. Surrounded bythatoverwhelmingpower And onceagainIseeherform Is oncemorestayed,tilltimerepeats Restrains thewrenchingtillerandourfate A hand,mademoreforlovethanstrength, Before thefoamingcrestingweight downward rush Of gatheringsea.Theninthe I seeherformagainstthesteelgreythreat Secure withinthecabin’srestfulwarmth — DillonOllivierre — VoytekDolinski

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JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 used echo- Meteor became accepted. were trying to find the best place to lay to do that!’ plate tectonics Discoveries on the ocean floor convinced many people. Find out next month. HMS Challenger . that drifted apart over millions of years. Everyone thought plates lithosphere ‘No child is brave enough ‘No child enough is brave (which means ‘all lands’). He suggested that this continent broke into — Answer on page 31 Just as Little Mary was about to trip over a big rock and fly all Just as Little Mary was about to trip over a big rock minds, So, while the villagers slept Papa Bois spoke into their and her And that is how one brave little girl saved her village Any other evidence? What evidence is there? In 1912, a scientist called Alfred Wegener proposed that all land masses on WORD PUZZLE How many words can you make from the letters of the word “TSUNAMI”? ture and he will not harm you.” And with that Ma Maria gave the ture and he will not harm back. Of course the child was more little girl a gentle push in the been in her life and she took a little frightened than she had ever moon and she stumbled her way very step forward. There was no path. With the forest trees high slowly down the well-trodden could see nothing and she kept her above her head, Little Mary the path was. The forest made all eyes down where she thought and then a hiss sounded next to her sorts of creeks and groans and looked up right into the glowing face. Little Mary stopped dead The little girl didn’t wait to scream; she red eyes of a large serpent. down over her face and ran full pelt just pulled the hood right bright white ball of a Soucouyant. down the path right into the her for Little Mary sobbed and clutched the cloak tightly about she heard protection and ran on in , not even stopping when dead but the splashing and wicked giggles of the Douen, those who unbaptised little children with their feet turned backwards were waiting to drown her in the swift running water. her and the way down the steep hillside a strong, hairy arm caught right after set her on the feet. “Ho, ho!” laughed Papa Bois, “I was He picked all! Little girl, you saved your village with your bravery!” safe her up in his soft hairy arms where Little Mary felt instantly As he put and carried her quickly up to her grandmother’s cottage. her down he said, “Sleep well my child.” were making sure that everyone understood that if his animals the village harmed again there would be no second chance and would be destroyed. great reward from Papa Bois was the friendship of every creature, and small, in the forest. sounding equipment and found mountain ridges in the deep ocean. In the decades that followed, new technology enabled more and more information to be obtained about these unexpected finds. The Mid-Atlantic Ridge was found to be the longest unbroken mountain chain in the world. Great volcanoes were found along its length. By studying the rocks on the ridge, the scientists were able to show that the plates on either side of the ridge are moving apart while the volcanoes create new crust in the middle. underwater cables. They were surprised to find that the sea floor wasn’t flat but had a large rise in it. In 1925, scientists on the research ship that he was crazy and his theory of continental drift was ignored. However, as other scientists began to find real evidence that the plates of the Earth’s crust were moving, the theory of In 1872, scientists on Earth were originally joined together in one huge continent, which he called sections called is a little firmer, and not as runny as the inner part. The crust “floats” on top of is a little firmer, and not as runny as the inner part. The crust “floats” on top of the mantle. There are two kinds of crust: oceanic crust which is thinner and made up of heavy rocks like basalt, and continental crust which is thicker and made of lighter rocks like granite. The crust and the outer mantle are together called the No plurals allowed. by Lee Kessell CRUISING KIDS’ CORNER CRUISING

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According to folklore, Papa Bois and all his supernatural friends According to folklore, Papa far.” He “No, no!” answered Papa Bois. “I don’t want to go that “No child is brave enough to do that!” laughed La Diablesse. “Perhaps not,” answered Papa Bois. “But we will see.” the old So Papa Bois whispered in the ear of Ma Maria, and when Little That same night just before midnight, Ma Maria wrapped e d

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freely roam the forests in mountainous islands of the lower freely roam the forests in Lucia and Trinidad. The wicked La Caribbean, such as St. hoof instead of a foot is known to lure Diablesse with one cloven and the serpent Madam D’Glow with young men to their deaths, to coil herself around an unwary her luminous red eyes is waiting death. But the only concern of Papa victim and squeeze him to half goat covered with long, coarse Bois — who is half man and out of his forehead — is to protect his hair and with horns that jut of this story, Papa Bois had found a forest animals. At the time creature that could have been shot trail of blood from a large forest sure. So Papa Bois called a council by a villager, but he wasn’t -like consisting of La Diablesse, Madam D’Glow and the white light Soucouyant who exchanges her skin for a ball of bright This coun- so that she can suck the blood out of newborn infants. people cil was held in the middle of the night when all the village on what to were in their beds and Papa Bois asked for suggestions a villager or do about it. Madam d’Glow said she would squeeze the blood two to death and the Soucouyant said she would suck out of a couple of babies. into the paused for moment then went on. “No, I will whisper and tell her ear of that wise old lady Ma Maria while she sleeps in the forest that I want her to find a child who will come to me with a great at midnight or else I will burn down their village lightning strike.” the villagers lady woke she pondered her dream and then called the men was together and told them that Papa Bois believed one of save the shooting his forest animals and the only thing that would at midnight village from his anger was for a child to come to him hid their and ask forgiveness. The children shook with fright and would faces in their mothers’ skirts and it looked as if the village and began have to be destroyed. The mothers cursed their menfolk his head in beating them with their fists while the culprit hung want to see shame. Little Mary, granddaughter of Ma Maria, didn’t hand and her home burnt down, so she tugged at the old lady’s whispered, “I’ll go, Granny.” with her to Mary in a bright yellow cape with a hood and walked on the the edge of the forest path. She kissed her granddaughter old crea- cheek. “Don’t be afraid, doux-doux — Papa Bois is a kind n by Elaine Ollivierre a DOLLY’S DEEP SECRETS PAPA BOIS’ TRICK BOIS’ PAPA

The Earth has three main parts: the core at its centre, the mantle and the crust The Earth has three main parts: the core at its centre, the mantle and the crust Tsunamis are waves caused when a large volume of water is displaced by mass Tsunamis are waves caused when a large volume of water is displaced by mass In December 2004, a massive tsunami in the Indian Ocean claimed nearly a ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2011 © 2011 OLLIVIERRE ELAINE on the outside. The mantle has two parts: both are liquid but the top (outer) part on the outside. The mantle has two parts: both are liquid but the top (outer) part earth movements such as landslides, earthquakes or underwater volcanic erup- tions. To understand how tsunamis are formed, we need to look at these earth movements. To understand these, we must first look at the structure of the Earth itself. how is it formed? quarter of a million lives. In March 2011, a tsunami killed thousands in Japan. We have looked at wind waves and tides. JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 by lightning,virtuallysimultaneously.OneboatwasintheHogIslandanchorage The weekbeforelast,asalineofthunderstormscamethrough,twoboatswerehit beauty ofthisspectacleistrulyawesome,asthepowertheselocalizedstorms. ing cloudsmarchedthroughthebaytossingspearsoffireineverydirection.The minated theentireofPricklyBaylikeafternoonsun.Oneafterother,tower- a spectacularlightshow.Asthunderrattledthedishesingalley,lightningillu- of harm’sway? roaming “BeastsofSummer”.Weareoutthestormtracks,butweentirely Last nightIwasawakenedtotheexplosionsofthunder.Incockpitwitnessed I but OutofHarm’sWay? Martin arememories.HereinsouthernGrenadawefeelingsafefromthe Igor’s attackonNewfoundlandandHurricaneEarl’sviciousbatteringofSt. Storm MatthewisstumblingthroughthejunglesofGuatemala.Hurricane t’s lateSeptemberandTropicalStormLisafloundersintheAtlantic. Storm Tracks— Out ofthe

by JohnRowland Sean Waugh /NOAA/NSSL Waugh Sean works/nature/natural disasters/lightning cell phoneifpossible. age tothroughhullsthatcouldleadleaks. rails, etcetera.). attached tosensorsorantennaeonthemast. and crewinalightningstorm: same discharge. ally quitenearby.Itispossiblethatthetwoboatsreferredtoearlierwerehitby frequently, therewillbeasecondarystrike,veryquicklyaftertheinitialusu- cant distances,perhapstoanareawheretheactualstormhasseemedhavepassed. lightning maystrikemilesfromthestormclouditself. There ispresentlynomodelthatcanpredictthepathlightningwilltake.Infact, a complexprocesswithmanyfactorswhicharenotclearlyunderstoodatthistime. sandths ofaninchandislittleimpedimenttothepoweralightningstrike. discharge hastraveledmiles.Thegapinaswitchorbreakerismeasuredthou- equipment inastrike. anchorage andwassurroundedbysignificantlytallermasts. Case inpoint,oneoftheboatsstruckGrenadawasamongsmallest within the“tribalknowledge”ofcruisingcommunityonlightning. significant damagetoinstrumentsandcommunicationequipment. was injuredandtherenostructuraldamagetoeitherboat.Therewas,however, while theotherwasinMt.HartmanBay,roughlyamileaway.Fortunately,noone For moreinformationonthemechanicsoflightningvisithttp//science.howstuff- • Ifcommunicationsarenecessaryduringastorm,usehand-heldVHFunitor • Ifstruck,checkbilgeandpumpsfirstincaseofstructuraldamageordam- • Duringalightningstorm,stayclearofanyconductivestructures(e.g.bowpulpit, • Besureyourmastiswellgroundedtothekeel. • Disconnectcables,ifpossible,toanyequipment,particularlytheequipmentis Some tipstheexpertsadvisetoimprovesafetyofyourboat,equipment WRONG! Lightningboltshavebeenobservedtosplitandhitmultiplepoints.Very • Alightningboltwillstrikeasinglespot. WRONG! Asnotedinthepointabove,strikepathmaycarrydischargesignifi- • Thedangerofalightningstrikeiswhenthestormoverhead. WRONG! Theroutelightningwillfollowisapathwayofionizedaircreatedby • Lightningwilltaketheshortestlinearpathtoground. WRONG! Thepoweroflightningismeasuredintensthousandsvoltsandthe • Turningoffelectronicsandthrowingthebreakeronpanelwillprotect WRONG! Lightningfrequentlystrikesobjectsthatarenotthetallestinarea. • Lightningwillstrikethetallestobjectinarea. Here areafewerroneousbeliefsI’veheardfolksspeakof: I’ve doneabitofresearchandfoundthereareseveralcommonmisconceptions Two boatswerehitby lightning, virtually simultaneously virtually . JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 s s ’ e c d i v r r a e S

h s c St. Lucia m (758) 458-1505

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GUY DEAN WEATHER REPORTS Unless severe weather threatens, this net is not conducted on Sundays. When there are George comes on at approximately 0710 with a weather synopsis, then moves to 7086 Since November 3, 2008 several radiofax charts produced by the National Hurricane Center which are broadcast from New Since November 3, 2008 several radiofax charts produced by Chaguaramas 0800 VHF 68 Monday-Sunday Monday-Saturday Monday-Saturday 68 68 72 VHF SELECTED CRUISERS’ VHF NETS VHF 0800 VHF 0730 Grenada St. Martin/Maarten Chaguaramas 0800 English Harbour Porlamar Rodney Bay 0730 VHF 14 0900 VHF 68/06 Puerto La Cruz Monday-Saturday 0830 Daily VHF 68 0745 VHF 72 Monday-Saturday as available Note 1: Note 2: • WWV has World Marine Storm Warnings (Voice) at 8 minutes after each hour, • During hurricane activity, information can be found continuously on the and Solar Flux information at 18 minutes after each hour on 2500, 5000, • Anyone, licensed or not, may legally operate on HAM frequencies in the event 10000, 15000, and 20000 AM. • For cruiser info, check out the Coconut Telegraph at 1200 UTC [0800 AST) at 4060 USB. Also Hurricane Watch Net on 14325 USB/ham. of a life-threatening emergency. Frequencies (in kHz): A) NMN, Chesapeake, 4426, 6501, 8764, 13089, 17314. B) NMG, New Orleans, 4316, 8502,12788. C) 4316, 8502, 12788, 17144.5 4369, 8788, 13110, 17362, 22804. Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later. Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later. then Caribbean Sea Gulf of Mexico, Southwest North Atlantic, * 0600 0200 NMG Broadcast B Wefax* USB USB Wefax* B USB USB Voice Broadcast A Forecast USB Wefax* B NMG Voice Offshore USB 0200 4060 0530 Broadcast USB Telegraph UTC Wefax* AST 0600 B Voice 0930 NMG USB A STATION & REPORT DESCRIPTION 1030 0630 Forecast Coconut USB 1100 0700 Carib. Emergency & Weather Net FREQ 1100 0800 0700 Broadcast Caribbean Weather (Chris) TYPE 1100 0800 Wefax* 0700 Caribbean Maritime Mobile Net Voice 1110 MODE B 0710 Offshore A Bahamas Weather Net USB 1120 0720 Forecast 3815 Puerto Rico/VI Weather Net 1200 NMG C6AGG Carolyn Wardle Weather Net Voice 1200 1130 7250 Voice LSB/ham 1230 3696 0830 Broadcast A 1300 Voice 1400 0900 Forecast Voice Offshore 8137 Caribbean Weather (Chris) 1330 LSB/ham (Note 2) 0930 LSB/ham Caribbean Sea (WLO) 1530 Voice Caribbean Weather (Chris) 1800 3930 USB (Note 1) 1730 1400 NMG 1800 Voice Offshore 4003 Caribbean Sea (WLO) 2000 1600 LSB/ham Voice 2030 2000 1630 Southbound II (Herb) 2130 USB 2330 8104 Carib. Cocktail & Weather Net 2235 1835 0000 Voice 2000 12350 Caribbean Emergency & Weather Net 0000 1) USB (Note Voice Caribbean Sea (WLO) 0330 3815 C USB (Note 1) 7086 Voice Voice LSB/ham C Voice LSB/ham USB 12359 Voice Voice USB USB C Voice USB Thanks to numerous cruisers for this information, which was correct to the best of our knowledge Thanks to numerous cruisers for this information, which was correct to the best of our knowledge SELECTED CARIBBEAN SHORTWAVE SELECTED CARIBBEAN as this issue of Compass went to press. With corrections or comments, contact [email protected]. of interest, with weather, security and genral info segments, are the Panama Connection Net at of interest, with weather, security and genral info segments, are the Panama Connection Net at 1330 UTC on 8107 and the Northwest Caribbean Net at 1400 UTC on 6209. active Tropical systems in the Atlantic, Caribbean Weather (Chris) runs a Net at 2300 UTC / 1900 AST, on 8137, Voice, USB. For complete schedule and changes visit www.caribwx.com/ssb.html and at 0730 gives the complete Caribbean forecast including rebroadcasting WEFX. Orleans are based on information from different model run times. A 36-hour wind/wave chart has been added to the New Orleans Orleans are based on information from different model run times. broadcast. For full details visit www.nhc.noaa.gov/radiofax_transmission_changes.shtml JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 last encounterofthemoonandEarth’sshadow.Moonriseisat1830hours, by Figure 3)YoucanseeonthisgraphicthattheCaribbeanisjustedgeof the very close(apparently)toalittlestarcalledPorrimainVirgo. slight crescentwillbeseen.Moonriseisat0516Hrs. and midnightlateron.SaturnisridinginVirgo. the month. are stillmorning‘stars’.Youcanseehowthegroupingisgoingtochangeduring Figure 1: Figure 3: 15th -FullmoonANDlunareclipse…butwewon’tseeitintheCaribbean!(See 10th -FindSaturnbylookingalittleupandtotherightofmoon. is 1st -NewMoon.Themoonwillbewiththosemorningstarsandperhapsavery Sky EventsThisMonth Saturn isrisingintheafternoonandsettingbetween8:00 As youcanseebyFigures1and2,theplanetsMercury,Venus,MarsJupiter The PlanetsinJune THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY! The SkyinJune The planetsat0515hoursonJune1st. The lunareclipseonJune15thjustmissesus! by ScottWelty Figure2: PM earlyinthemonth The planetsat0515hoursonJune30th Canada theyswingbetween18hoursofdaylightonthesolsticeandsixinwinter! stice to11.2hoursonthewintersolstice.UpincrazyplaceslikeYellowKnife, our daysgetalittlelonger.Wevaryfrom12.8hoursofdaylightonthesummersol- effect isofcoursemorepronouncedthefarthernorthyougo.HereinCaribbean apparent paththroughournorthernskiesandhencewehavelongestday.The trek beforeheadingbacksouth.Sinceitisthefarthestnorth,takeslongest to comeascreeching(inspacenoonecanhearyouscreech!)haltinitsnortherly ciate whatadropinthebucketthisisforUSbudget?Onaboutanypiechart array oftelescopesattheKeplerplanetsjustdiscovered.$5million?Canyouappre- looking forUS$5millionovertwoyearstokeeptheoperationgoingandaimtheir expensive butbecauseitgeneratesfewvotes.Berkley’sHatCreekObservatory is “bare bones”andneedlittlefromoutsidefirms.SETIiscuttablenotbecause it is congressmen thattheyhaveintheirpockets.TheSETIscientistsruntheprogram NOT ahugemoneypitandassuchdoesnotprovide“pork”forcontractorsor the denied theproperfundstodoso.TheproblemwithaprojectlikeSETIisthat it is where toaim(oratleasthaveincreasedoddsofsuccess),weare data willcomeoutuntilfurtherfundingisfound.Ironicyes?Rightwhenweknow the UniversityofCalifornia-Berkeley,isbeingputintohibernationmodeandno which timetheeclipseisessentiallyover.

What, again?HowlonghaveIbeenatthiscolumn?Yesit’stimeagainforthesun Summer Solstice 1st (July)-NextNewMoon 21st -SummerSolstice—longestday(seebelow) FIGURE 3 FIGURE

Stars theywillwanttolaunchanall-outattack! Or inanother60yearswhentheyreceiveDancingwiththe Lucy. Hmmm…maybetheydon’twanttocomehereatall! years thatisjustnowreceivingthefirstepisodesofILove alien civilizationoutthereatadistanceofabout60light out andtravelthroughspaceaswell.Perhapsthereisan transmissions andspecificallyourTVleak an invisibleslice,istrulyinvisible. this fractionofthesciencebudget,whichisalreadyalmost waters oftheCaribbean.Stopandsayhi!” ward toperhapsseeingyouasweget back tosailingthe being re-commissionedinGrenadaJune andwelookfor- S/V EneeMarie Wondercat aboardthe1983Endeavour 40centercockpit Burford Books,©2007. FIGURE 2 FIGURE 1 FIGURE Scott Weltyistheauthorof Pass thewine…. Turn theSETIprojectotherwayround.Ourradio To ContemplateWhileHavingaGlassofWineonDeck For moreinformationvisitwww.seti.org. Scott iscruisingtheCaribbeanwithSue andMismothe for SETI,specificallythearrayoftelescopesoperatedby emanating fromanyofthoseplanets.Exciting,right? where toaimandseeifthereisanyintelligent“noise” scopes! Noneedtoscantheentiresky—wecanpinpoint other wordswenowknowwheretopointtheradiotele- their starssuchthatliquidwaterwouldbepossible.In some ofwhichareeveninthe‘Goldylocks’zonearound that isdiscoveringnumerousplanetsaroundotherstars where theveryexcitingnewsaboutKeplersatellite wave carryinginformation.There’salotofskytocover! that wecouldrecognizeasanactualmodulatedradio scanning hugetractsofskyinthehopefindingablip axy. AllofthecurrentandformerSETIprojectsinvolve there beingintelligentcivilizationsomewhereinthegal- Drake equation)thatpurportedtocalculatetheoddsof spring, CarlSagan,andthemovieContact! for -TerrestrialIntelligence)project,numerousoff- up theirtransmissions.SowasborntheSETI(Search is activelyusingradioasweare,mightbeabletopick is atechnologicallyadvancedcivilizationouttherethat quite wellinspacewithoutdiminishing.Hence,ifthere realized thataparticularsetofradiofrequenciestravel ‘listening’ foralienradiotransmissions.He,andothers, noon andsometimesalittleafter. its highestpointfortheday)happensalittlebeforeclock our ellipticalorbitvaries,sosometimesrealnoon(sunat ning motionisconstant,ourvelocityaroundthesunon spinning ANDmovingaroundthesun.Whileourspin- figure eightandnotastraightlineisbecauseweare crossing pointisthetwoequinoxes.Thefactthatita sun ishighestinJuneandlowestDecember.The entire year(notaphotograph,althoughmanyexist).The sun atthesametimeofdayonseveraldaysduring found onmanyglobes.Figure4showsthepositionof analemma Brrrrr. Youcanseethesun’sentireyearlypathonan However… Inthelatestroundofbudgetcuts,funding Jump topresentdayandasreportedhereelse- Frank alsocameupwithanunwieldyequation(the Around 1960aguybythenameofFrankDrakebegan The EndofSETI? . Thisisthefigure-eightshapedloopthat . Scotttells Caption Compass The WhyBookofSailing readers,“

Enee Marie is 4 FIGURE ,

JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 will be found per ear

Happy Hour Happy Hour All Day & Night All Day on cocktails & beer! * Steaks * Seafood * Pizzas are a constant problem, laying eggs on the devel-

Free docking for yachts dining with us! Free 5 & more people & Captain eats for free! 5 & more Free water taxi pick up from your yacht to our dock! your water taxi pick up from Free Crusty Corn Casserole 1/2 Cup butter 1 16-ounce can creamed corn can kernels shaved from 4 ears of fresh corn (or one 16-ounce whole kernel corn, drained) 2 eggs, beaten 1/2 Cup sour cream 2 Cups cornmeal 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 Tablespoons brown sugar 1 small onion 1 Tablespoon finely chopped green pepper 1/2 small hot pepper (optional) glass baking dish in the Preheat oven to 350°F. Melt butter in an 8- by 12-inch For the Gardener type grown. Pioneer is West Indians love corn and ‘Pioneer’ is the most common during pollination result in Corn regularly requires water. Hot, dry conditions salt and black pepper to taste salt and black chadon bene 2 teaspoons chopped butter 1 Tablespoon When the peppers and onion and stir-fry. frying pan. Add corn, Heat oil in a large Marigot Bay, St.Lucia Phone: (758) 451-4772 VHF 16 St.Lucia Phone: (758) 451-4772 Marigot Bay, oven. Mix all remaining ingredients and pour into the hot buttered baking dish. Bake oven. Mix all remaining ingredients and pour into the hot one hour until a crust forms. Corn can be grown eas- what Americans would call ‘cow corn’ since it is not sweet. enough space. It is especially ily in any garden with sufficient light, fertile soil, and when it is harvested and popular with home gardeners, because corn tastes better level of pH 6. Plant two seeds, eaten fresh. Corn is best grown in full sun, with a soil 24 inches apart. To insure one inch deep, every 12 inches. Rows should be about least four rows of corn in the proper pollination and formation of the ears, plant at . Corn is a garden. For smaller gardens, try planting in a four-by-four-foot mix, or two parts urea mixed heavy feeder: use rotted chicken manure, a 12–24–12 inches tall. Fertilize corn every with one part of potash when the plants are 12 to 18 at least one large ear. Using eight days until ripe. Each cornstalk should produce small garden area. this method, you should harvest 16 to 24 ears from a the tips of the ears. Harvest missing kernels, small ears, and poor development of will occur 12 to 18 days after after the kernels are full and milky when pinched. This the silk first shows. Corn earworms follow the silks down into oping silks or on the leaves near the ear. Tiny caterpillars the ear, where they feed on the . Only one corn earworm all others. Once the worm because they are cannibalistic, with the largest devouring control. is inside the protective husk covering, there is no effective vegetables are just cooked add seasonings and butter. Serves four. and butter. Serves four. just cooked add seasonings vegetables are CHATEAU MYGO CHATEAU HOUSE OF SEAFOOD

SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL AT SEA BY SHIRLEY SERVING CONSIDERING CONSIDERING CARIBBEAN CORN CARIBBEAN Corn & Pepper Stir Fry 1 Tablespoon vegetable oil kernels shaved from about 5 ears of corn (4 Cups) 2 sweet bell peppers, diced 1 small onion, diced 1 teaspoon ground cumin Savory Corncakes 3/4 Cup all-purpose flour 1/4 Cup yellow cornmeal 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1 Cup canned creamed corn 1 egg, lightly beaten 1/2 Cup milk 1 Tablespoon vegetable oil kernels shaved from 1 large ear of corn (about 2/3 Cup) 2/3 Cup minced onion 1/4 teaspoon pepper sauce egg, milk and oil, and stir Sift together the dry ingredients. Whip the creamed corn, 1 Cup cracker/biscuit crumbs (e.g. Crix) 2/3 Cup all-purpose flour 2 Tablespoons sugar 4 eggs 3 Cups milk salt and pepper to taste a pinch of nutmeg 1/4 Cup butter flour and sugar. Beat the In a large bowl, mix together the corn, cracker crumbs, Caribbean Corn Pudding 16-ounce can whole kernel kernels shaved from 4 large ears of fresh corn (or one Corn is good for you. It is high in fiber, niacin, folate and also has some vitamin A. in fiber, niacin, folate and also has some vitamin Corn is good for you. It is high An ear of corn has an average of 800 kernels, arranged in 12 to 16 rows. There is of 800 kernels, arranged in 12 to 16 rows. There An ear of corn has an average The inhabitants of what is now Mexico probably first cultivated corn, or maize, now Mexico probably first cultivated corn, or maize, The inhabitants of what is Roasted corn can be found on every island and is considered a treat — no matter on every island and is considered a treat — no matter Roasted corn can be found [email protected] www.marigotbeachclub.com [email protected] into the dry mixture. Do not over mix. Let the batter rest in the refrigerator for an into the dry mixture. Do not over mix. Let the batter and pepper sauce. Cook hour or more. Then stir in the corn kernels, minced onion greased griddle over medium the batter in batches, dropping Tablespoonfuls onto a warm in a 200°F oven while heat. Cook two minutes per side, or until golden. Keep finishing. Makes two dozen small corncakes. eggs fairly well and add with milk to the corn mixture. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg eggs fairly well and add with milk to the corn mixture. dish and dot with bits of to your taste; stir well. Pour into a large greased baking butter. Bake in a 300°F oven for about an hour. corn, drained) Folate has been found to prevent some birth defects and to reduce the risk of heart some birth defects and to reduce the risk of heart Folate has been found to prevent of the intestinal track running smoothly. One ear disease and stroke. Fiber keeps yellow corn has only 80 calories. one piece of silk for each kernel. The corncob or ear is part of the corn plant’s flower. The corncob or ear is part of the corn plant’s flower. one piece of silk for each kernel. releases as many as five million grains of pollen. Each tassel on a corn plant around 6000BC. In the Old World, no evidence exists of maize in archaeological World, no evidence exists of maize in archaeological around 6000BC. In the Old of it is made in ancient writings; it is believed to have remains, and no mention it is carried corn to many parts of the world and evolved only in the West. Explorers often as feed grain for animals. used nearly everywhere today, how blackened it is from the coal pot! Local Caribbean corn isn’t sweet or tender, but coal pot! Local Caribbean corn isn’t sweet or tender, how blackened it is from the and people also like corn in the form of cornmeal, is enjoyable to chew on. Caribbean still made at home by drying and grinding the kernels. in some rural areas this is appear on many Caribbean dining tables on Sundays Corn puddings and casseroles is a versatile galley staple. and holidays. Canned corn JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 southwestcoastofIreland SailingQuarterly,pluscruisesintheGrenadines,Venezuelaand • “Streetwise1and2”givetipsthatappearedinthepopularvideo line-handlingskillseverysailorshouldknow.1hour • “StreetonKnots”demonstratestheessentialknotsand racingroundthebuoystocelebrateher80thbirthday.1hour • “AntiguaWeek’85”isthestoryofenginelessyawlIolaire fromIrelandtoAntiguaviatheCapeVerdes.2hours • “TransatlanticwithStreet”documentsasailingpassage describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor HURRICANE TIPS! GOOD GUIDESARETIMELESS at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, at allIslandWaterworldstoresandJohnson'sHardware, Rocks don’tmove—oriftheydoareshownon DVDs availableatImray,KelvinHughes,ArmchairSailor/ marine tradeguideeveryyear,whichismuchmore Month’s infrastructure, virtuallyeveryislandputsoutafree departments putoutafreeannualguideforbars, or fromwww.iUniverse.comandwww.seabooks.com An IndependentLookatAnguilla up-to-date thananyguide;similarly,thetourist Full informationonDVDsatwww.street-iolaire.com information ontrackingandsecuringforastorm. up-to-date Imraycharts.Regardingmarine Holding TanksforDummies Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. Bluewater Books,andwww.street-iolaire.com. With alltheseupdatesreadilyavailable, NEW! Street’s Guides and DVDs are available Street’s GuidesandDVDsareavailable Read inNext Street’s guidesaretimeless. Container Collision! Street’s videos, first made in 1985, Street’svideos,firstmadein1985, restaurants andhotels. are now back as DVDs. arenowbackasDVDs. … andmore! Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of Visitwww.street-iolaire.comforawealthof Compass : slow himdown.MyfriendPhil,themateon looking likeasea-goingporcupine. arrows. Tristanreportsthelaunchquicklydeparted, side ofthelaunchandhismateletflyahalfdozen bolt fromhiscrossbowthatwentrightthroughthe launch begantolooktooinquisitive,soTristanfireda once, inEnsenadaHondita.Anoutboard-powered pull longbow.Tristansaidtheydidusetheirweapons a bowandarrow,equippedhimselfwith60-pound- with acrossbowandhismate,whohunteddeer some defensiveweapons.Tristanequippedhimself want tohaveproblemswithgunsbutfelttheyneeded self-defense inColombia,Tristanreportedhedidnot ing thatdidnotcostusacent. long, pleasantafternoonofseastoriesandbeerdrink- again Tristandemandedtheybuyusbeer.Itwasa ing beer,andaskediftheycouldtakeapicture, trip otheryachtsmenarrived,sawthetwoofusdrink- pher happilydid.AswecontinueddiscussingTristan’s es —unlessyoubuyusabeer,”whichthephotogra- our photograph.Tristansaid,“Undernocircumstanc- time wasano-goareaforyachts. eastward alongtheColombiancoast,whichatthat greeted Tristanandstartedquizzinghimabouthistrip one legIdecidedshouldgouptotheBridgeBar. Dear to joinmeon and wouldlikemetojoinhim. young mansaidthatTristanwasupintheBridgeBar him tomovearoundonatrithanmonohull.The sailing, buthadswitchedtoatriasitwaseasierfor bastard. Hehadonelegamputatedandwasstill Panama onTristan’strimaran.Tristanwasatoughold crew. Hestatedthattheyhadjustarrivedfrom to comeonboard.HeintroducedhimselfasTristan’s at theveryendofpier,whenayoungmanasked late 1980sIwasinYachtHaven,St.Thomas,moored “Never letthefactsinterferewithagoodstory”. Compass tale aboutTristanJonesandmyselfintheAprilissueof adventures intheCaribbean,IrepeatMarty’sview.Billy’s you tobuyandreadthebook”. the glib-tonguedWelshmansaysitsowellthatIadvise thing Tristansaidinthebookactuallyhappened,but late TristanJones’books,said,“Iamnotsureifevery- Dear Glandore, Ireland Don Street Bones’ storiesareworthreading. or not,allhisbooksareworthreading.Similarly, Billy tainly lefthismarkintheliterarysailing world.True Tristan towriteme.” more yearsoflifeandsailing.Thanksforgetting he wrotetomeandsaid,“Tristan’slettergavefive ment didnotcurehimbuttoolongbeforehedied Baby should notgotosea,butPhilcontinuedsailon various experimentalcures.Thedoctorssaidhe how hehimselfwasdyingofcancerbutnotgivingin. coward andmanyotherunprintablethings.Herelated and laidintoPhilinnouncertainterms,callinghima Phil andencouragetofightit.ThisTristandid, cer. IwrotealettertoTristan,askinghimwrite up sailing,andwasnotinterestedinfightingthecan- he hadneversmoked).Hewasreallydown,giving was diagnosedwithlungcancer(despitethefactthat struck anunlitbuoyinGrenada,hereare afewmore dental deathofDanHemley,whodiedafter hisdinghy FFORUM RREADERS' Tristan wasatougholdgoat;thelossoflegdidnot When IinquiredwhatTristanandhiscrewusedfor A yachtsmanwithacameraaskedifhecouldtake I wasbusyandatfirstthoughtwouldaskTristan Many yearsaftertheincidentBillyreported,in Regarding William“BillyBones”Pringle’sstoriesofhis The lateMartinLuray,writingareviewofonethe Like allofus,Tristanhadhisfailings,buthecer- This turnedPhilaround.Heofferedhimselfupfor Further tomyitemintheMayissueabout theacci- O onhercruisestooutlandishplaces.Thetreat- E Compass Compass is a good story — and as Tristan himself said, isagoodstory—andasTristanhimselfsaid, R A U D Iolaire , , M E R , butthenreflectinghehadonly S '

War Baby War , Dear Nauti Cat Denise Cluistra trate onthehandlingofboat. to practisedinghyhandlingandnotjustconcen- thing goes!Itisimportantforthewholefamilyorcrew seatbelts invehiclesarethelaw;withdinghies,any- fixed headlights.Inmostcountriesaroundtheworld, transport, especiallyinthedarkwiththemhavingno do notrealizethattheyareadangerousmeansof possibly savealife! an emergency. ally handyforclimbingontotogetintothedinghyin getting thedinghyupontoaplanearealsoexception- original steelfins(whicharesmaller),whileusefulfor the water,youcanclipyourselfontodinghy. ful sothatshouldyoubeabletogetthemwhilein either sideofthedinghywithsnapshacklesonisuse- side ofthedinghyuntilhelparrives.Alsoaropetiedon catching holdofropesthreadedthroughhandlesonthe motor willcutoutandyouthenhaveachanceof engine sothatifyoushouldbethrownoverboard,the wrist andusethekillswitchtostartstop Passengers caneither“sitlow”or“clipon”aswell. clip ontoyourbelttohopefullystopyoufromfalling. attached tothedinghywithasnapshacklethatyoucan so bulkyandhardtosecurethedinghy)orhavearope summon help. safety tipsfortravelingbydinghyatnight: —Continuedonnextpage to addressingsomespecificcomments: charterers inthesamebreathisproblematic. Buton about full-timecruisersonsailboatsand short-stay fortable withthemanyblanketstatements. Venting with Mr.Dalglieshonsomeofhispoints, we’reuncom- happen tobedoingitonasailboat.While weagree Dear Trinidad Nan Hatch years, butasyoumustknow,theyhave. the small-islandpeopleandschoolsformany,many fact thatthesailingfraternityhasbeen“helpingout” humble sailingvessels.Ididn’tmanagetoincludethe Saltwhistle Bayandcausingallkindsofproblemswith to dealwithpowerboatsmooringbothforeandaftin the LetterofMonthinMayissue.Wehavehad We allgetsousedtothespeedofourdinghiesand All oftheaboveitemsarenotexpensiveandcould Large plasticoutboardenginefins,fittedtothe Put acordlooponyourkey-ringtogoaround Either wearlifejackets(whichisnoteasyastheyare Have asmallredflarestoredinthedinghytouse We’re inourthirdyearofCaribbeancruising and Regarding theMayissue’sLetterofMonth: Remember: sailboatsweretherefirst! And shouldyouwithfrustrationburst… To movingonwithchangeandtimes, So S.Dalgliesh,Iamresigned Well, toughonme,youhavethatright. And ifyoucausemesleeplessnights, Without homecomfortsonthesea. This simplesailor’srighttobe And don’tpollute,andabuse To affordallthatfueltheyuse I’m gladtheyhavethewhere-with-all But Istilllovethem,they’remypals, Still seemtomeatrifledense, Enjoying luxuryandexpense, Upon anengine-drivenboat, The manyfriendsIhavewhofloat Another fromawaterygrave! And sailboatstoohaveoftensaved You canpollutemuchfartherout! Yes, holdingtanksaregood,nodoubt– By ruiningyourtropicview! In showingwhathethoughtofyou Perhaps thatmanshowedhisdelight And asforglisteningbumsofwhite, We swing,butthenweswingtogether! It’s truewhenwehaveheavyweather Is forayachtsman,simplydaft! For anchoringbothforeandaft, So goodforyou,buthellme. You’re likearockputinthesea, Some problemsmustperforceensue. When anchoringthewayyoudo To keep‘thepoor’awakeallnight! If Iwererich,I’dhavetheright I wasasrichS.Dalgliesh! Oh howIwish,wish POWER! I couldnotresistwritingthepoembelowinreplyto Compass Compass , , JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 cannot be matched. Marine Insurance My claims settlement record www.street-iolaire.com New Services: insurance. You never know how good The insurance business has changed. insurance, but there is no good cheap No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather, the honest broker can only say, your insurance is until you have a claim. There is good insurance, there is cheap “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” AIR AMBULANCE e-mail: [email protected]

I have been connected with the marine insurance NEW JET ADDED TO THE FLEET! THE TO ADDED JET NEW business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers in the Lloyds market. FLIGHTS TO & FROM ST. LUCIA LUCIA & FROM ST. TO FLIGHTS . Yachting World , Compass My heartfelt sympathies to all involved. My heartfelt sympathies see the discussion on this subject, For an excellent learned a to Australia and I’ve just We’ve made it in hard use across the Our ground tackle has been get the re-galvanizing job I’ve found three places to do lots of chain andThe folks at Kenco Galvanizing Turns out the labour cost of getting the chain sand- But my friend Sam just came-up with a brilliant plan. So we disconnected the anchor, offloaded the chain into We turned off the highway toward the old coastal road Those of you heading this way may want to note you products of these dangers. products of these Sincerely, Chris Doyle Ti Kanot of May 2011 issue Dear readers may be interested new trick that you and your get a laugh from it! I’m to hear about and maybe even re-galvanizing work in the not aware of anyone doing for sandblasting for re- Caribbean, but here’s a tip painting, if nothing else. chain is seven years old Caribbean and Pacific. The coating. It’s begun and has lost much of its galvanized rust lately, so I’ve been staining our deck with surface way to re-galva- searching for the most cost-effective . Our ground nize our anchor, chain and Bruce anchor and tackle is made up of a 66-pound of high-quality, American- 200 feet of rope with 200 feet between the two. made BBB chain connected with the best deal done on the east coast of Australia being in Bundaberg. per kilo to clean, acid washquoted a price of AU$1.20 using a special vibrat- and hot-dip galvanize our parts ing basket which will shake, rattle and roll the chain throughout the process, which they assure me will completely re-coat each link and prevent the links from bonding. However, they said I’d have to remove all paint markings and loose rust before they’d accept it, and suggested I have it sandblasted prior to delivery. blasted here was going to bring the cost of the job up to about the same as purchasing NEW chain! It seems BBB chain isn’t even made in this hemisphere and I’d certainly never find 200 feet of good chain in a dump- ster, nor find a new gipsy to fit our windlass needed to handle a new type of chain. The strong Ozzy dollar and I shipping cost would also add expense to any tack took, too. Galvanizing is affordable in the Land of Oz, but having someone sandblast each link isn’t. two milk crates on the dock and hauled it up the ramp (at high tide) with two handtrucks and loaded nearly 400 pounds of rusty steel into the back of a pickup and steered for Bundaberg, 200 miles away. and drove until the pavement ended, where we got out and unloaded the crates of chain from the back of the truck. I tied a short piece of tuna cord to the last link of the chain, looped the string over our bumper hitch, locked the hubs and we took off on a ten-kilometre detour along a hard-packed beach. We dragged the chain for about a half hour at speeds reaching 60 kilometres per hour while swerving and doing figure eights, then reversed the chain and drove some more. By the time we were done, all traces of paint and rust were gone and the entire length of chain was shiny when we arrived at the galvanizing plant. A poor man’s sandblaster but VERY effective! Too easy, and lots of fun at the beach. The fellow on the fork- lift got a big laugh when we told him what we’d done. can get hot-dip galvanizing done in Brisbane, Bundaberg and Townsville. All three are official ports of entry into and out of Australia, but Bundy is the best deal, in my opinion. To Life! Kirk, Cath and Stuart McGeorge The Tsunami Tsurfing, Fire Walking Gallivanters from St. Thomas, slowly working our way home to Benner Bay

does from infallible, and “radio police”. VHF “radio police”. far about standby/hailing channel for cruis- standby/hailing channel for , de facto you ever use an electric winch you have to “radio police” and “radio police” Compass by before Continued from previous page Continued from Manufacturers need to come up with a separate There are lessons here for both electric winch users It is imperative that people think about this so it From what I gather (I heard about this second-hand), My windlass has done this; it is very disconcerting, Electric winch alert! The trend is clear: on average, we sailors are getting We all share the water. Maybe we’ve just been fortunate that we haven’t Maybe we’ve just been fortunate Radio usage is another area of constant complaint, another area of constant Radio usage is We didn’t know that power boaters anchored bow that power boaters anchored We didn’t know infallible “kill” button, in case the main switch fails. They also need to warn people who already own their that have a foolproof plan in case switch failure happens. You need to know exactly where the main breaker for the winch is, and make sure there is nothing between you and it, so you can get there fast. In the case of pulling someone up the mast it would be far safer to deploy a third person by the breaker so that if the switch fails, they can cut the power. None of these ideas would have occurred to me before this accident. happen, that these switches are and manufacturers. When my anchor windlass failed to stop, I thought of it as “no big thing”, but the recent accident really brought home to me just what a mon- strous thing switch failure can be in the wrong circum- stances. The lesson I took from this is to realize it does not happen again. she tried to release the rope from the winch but ended up getting her arm pulled into the winch. She screamed for help and a nearby yachtsman who tried to help also got some fingers entangled. So here we have an accident where a woman lost her arm, and a man several fingers, all because some cheap little switch failed to turn off. and for a few seconds I ran all over the place trying to and for a few seconds I ran all over the place trying to remember where main fuse switch was. How much worse it must be when your loved one is rapidly head- ing towards a collision at the top of the mast. older, using fancier boats and getting more gadget- minded. One of the more useful additions to many boats is the electric -winch (after, of course, the electric anchor windlass). As with many new products, dangers do not become apparent till accidents happen, and there was a terrible accident this year with an electric winch. Basically, a wife was pulling her hus- band up the mast. As he got near the top she pressed the stop button — but the winch kept going. Pat and Geoff Craigen S/V Beach House Dear seen the “insurmountable rift between sailing yachties seen the “insurmountable rift are obvious differences in and power boaters”. There are people. The good, the lifestyle perhaps, but people community. We’ve met bad and the ugly exist in every of vessels and look for- wonderful people on all kinds adventure. ward to continuing our Caribbean ing boats, of all types in the Grenada area. This leavesing boats, of all types in the and commercial use. Itchannel 16 clear for emergency community feel the needis regrettable that some in our who don’t know this localto impatiently police those are chatting on channelcruiser custom. When newbies a private conversation, let- 68, thinking they’re having several hundred cruisingting them know politely that chat is not complaining toboats have just heard their brusque, “switch to a work- them, it’s informative. Just a confusing and unfriendly.ing channel!” is unnecessary, channel 68 is indeed a public channel, but it has indeed a public channel, channel 68 is become the both and stern. The only power boats that we have seen at only power boats that we and stern. The swing in har- on single anchors and anchor have been true for our rest of the fleet. This holds mony with the is truly Saltwhistle Bay. But anchoring experiences in differences abound. a religion and — JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 appear in of the Ahoy, West Marine,Fajardo Sunbay Marina Puerto DelReyMarina,Fajardo Palmas delMarYC,Humacao Marina Pescaderia,CaboRojo Isleta Marina,Fajardo Marine Dream,SanJuan Caribbean Compass Compass bold PICK UP! ): Readers!WheninPuertoRico,pickupyourfreemonthlycopy , Fajardo atanyoftheselocations(advertisersinthisissue

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€4.900.000 $619,000 $749,000 200047’ Catana 200750’ Catana 200773’Executive $ €340,000 $950,000 2,000,000 Weather Wandering Our ings toseeiftheAtlanticlowsaregoing totravelevenfarthersouth. gale atlatitude18°Nononeoccasion.Itwillbeinterestingtomonitorsailors’find- south tobelow20°N,althoughoneyachtdeliveryskippertoldmehemetasouthwest big seas.Toavoidtheselow-pressuresystems,yachtsgenerallysailsome600miles sions passsouthoftheCanaryIslandseachwinter,withsouthwestheadwinds and ally leaveafterNovember21sttoavoidhurricanes.AnaverageofsixAtlanticdepres- ent, movingduesouthandsinkingthe was expectedtomovenorthwest.However,thestormtraveledonpressuregradi- in Belize,tookaneasterlycourseexpectingtopasssouthofthehurricane,which sula intotheGulfofMexico.Thethree-mastedsailingship it wascalledHurricaneMitch.ItforecasttopassnorthoftheYucatanpenin- storm camebywithtorrentialrain.Ittraveled500mileswestandonOctober22nd hurricanes followpressuregradients.InOctober1998IwasinSt.Lucia.Atropical maintains theGulfStream. ing averysmallfallinthesealevel.TheflowofwarmwaterpastBahamas The seasurfacetemperaturerisesalittleandevaporationtakesplace,caus- Caribbean, thesunreachesmeridianaltitude,at90degreesaboveus,muchsooner. highest latitudeinJune,summerisestablishedthenorthernhemisphere.In west andsendsaridgeofhighpressuretowardEurope.Now,withthesunatits comparison.) year. Yourbarometer,correctlyadjusted,willgiveyouthebarometricpressurefor sure foreveryislandisrecordedintheAdmiraltyPilotguidemonthof Grenadines washigher,sothewindswerestronger.(Theaveragebarometricpres- bigger thegradient,strongerwind.Thiswinter,pressuregradientin sure gradientintheCaribbean.Thewindblowsacrossapressure— 300 feet. higher. Itisestimatedthatifbothicecapsmeltcompletely,thesealevelwillgoup again takingBequiaasanexample,Iwouldguessthatthesealeveliseightinches quickly willsealevelsrise?Inthe37yearsIhavebeencomingtoCaribbean, been risingabout18inchesevery100years.Iftheicecapscontinuetomelt,how jet stream,soislandsfarthersouthcouldbehit. years. Earlyhurricanesmayfollowamoresoutherlypathandbehelddownbythe winds havebeendippingdownlowoverFloridainawavypatternthelast20 January andFebruary.) hardly surprisingthatBequia,forexample,hadmorewetsquallyweatherin condensation withthetradewindcloudsandmoretroughsoflowpressure.(Itis tude 18°N.Morecoldairisnowreachinglowerlatitudes,whichwillproducemore America at43°N,andreturnbythenortheasttradewindstoCaribbeanlati- is rotaryclockwise.PrevailingwesterliescomeacrosstheAtlanticfromNorth down andturningsouth. this withanAtlanticsurveyship.FindingsindicatethattheGulfStreamisslowing Southampton University(UK)haseightresearchprofessorsmonitoringtheeffectsof peratures globallyarerising,morecoldwaterisenteringtheNorthAtlantic. ocean andaircurrents,thesealevel,atmosphericpressuresystems. squally weatherandbiggerseas.Otherresultsofglobalwarmingarealterationsin What goesuphastocomedown,sothereismorerain,andstrongerwindsproduce global warming,moreevaporationistakingplacefrombodiesofwaterworldwide. polar bearsroamedwhatisnowthesouthofFrance.Withcurrentperiod John CawseyisaYachtmasterInstructor. Yachties sailingacrosstheAtlanticfromCanaryIslandstoCaribbeanusu- Pressure gradientsplayabigpartinourweathersystems.Thunderstormsand Around thethirdweekinMayAzoreshigh-pressuresystemexpands500miles The Azoreshigh-pressuresystemmovessouthwestinwinter.Thiscreatesapres- Pressure Systems Since thelastIceAge,whichfinishedabout12,000yearsago,sealevelhas Sea Level The jetstreamcirculatesabovetheEarthatabout30,000feet.Thesehigh-altitude Cold waterproducescoldairincontactwithit.ThecirculationtheAtlantic Global warmingiscausingthepolaricecapstomelt,andthus,althoughseatem- Ocean andAirCurrents The Earthhasperiodsofglobalwarmingandcooling.InthelastIceAge, Thunderstorms and hurricanes andhurricanes Thunderstorms follow pressuregradients WHAT’S ONMYMIND by JohnCawsey Fantome andhercrewof31. Fantome , leavingharbor JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 $250,000.00 Freshwater boat 46’ 2001 Sea Ray Sundancer, 46’ 2001 Sea Ray Sundancer, Sail Power [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-4803 Fax: (340) 779-4803 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. www.stthomasyachts.com Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Compass Point 40’ 1982 Marine condition $64,900.00 ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES YACHT THOMAS ST. Trader Pilothouse, excellent Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale Call, fax or visit our website for a complete business separate 36’ 1980 Albin Stratus, daysail 38, classic, excellent cond. 38’ 1967 Le Comte, Northeast excellent cond. 44’ 1988 Morgan Catalina, excellent cruiser 50’ 1978 Nautor MSailer, refit, $80,000 , needs engs. 37’ 1986 CML Trawler, Great roomy, cockpit 38’ 1977 Chris-Craft Corinthian, $45,000 classic, CG cert. 42’ 1971 Grand Banks, Wooden 450 Cats, 3 strms 48’ 2004 Dyna Craft MY, $20,000 $325,000 $119,000 $89,900 $30,000 $295,000 went to press — but plans change, CALENDAR Compass this issue of so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. Tobago Heritage Festival. www.visittobago.gov.tt BVI Emancipation Festival Carriacou Regatta Festival. www.carriacouregatta.com Canouan Carnival, Grenadines Highland Spring HIHO 2011, BVI (windsurf and SUP). Dominica Dive Fest. www.dominica.dm/site/divefest.cfm Bastille Day. Celebrations on French islands Bonaire Heineken Jazz Festival 2011. www.bonairejazz.com Bonaire Heineken Jazz Festival Jazz on the Pier, Errol Flynn Marina, Port Antonio, Jamaica. St. Lucia National Junior Sailing Champtionship. SLYC Quantum IC24 International Regatta, Tortola. RBVIYC St. Lucia Yacht Club Olympic Day. SLYC mation of the organizing body to [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time BVI Billfish Tournament. Tournament. Billfish BVI Calabash Festival, Montserrat. www.visitmontserrat.com/Calabash_Festival & Barbuda Sport Fishing Tournament. Antigua Club Laser Championships, St. Maarten. St. Maarten Yacht Caribbean Martinique Whit Monday Regatta, Grenadines Petite J/24 Club, International J/24 Open Championships. Barbados Barbados www.sunfishclass.org Sunfish World Championship, Curaçao. Ocho Rios. www.ochoriosjazz.com Jamaica International Jazz Festival, St. Thomas, USVI. Scotiabank International Regatta, St. Maarten. SMYC, www.smyc.com Marlow One Design Championship, Statia/Nevis. SMYC, www.smyc.com Offshore Regatta, St. Maarten to Tobago Fishermen’s Festival, Charlotteville, (IC24 youth sailing) KATS Premier’s Cup, Tortola Cuba. Club Hemingway International Billfish Tournament, Havana, Ernest Canouan Regatta, Grenadines. Canouan Sailing Club, & the Grenadines (St. Vincent Carnival) Public holiday in St. Vincent Nautique du Marin Combat des Coques Race, Marin, Martinique. Club Firecracker 500 Race, BVI. West End Yacht Club (WEYC), FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE Guy Eldridge Memorial Race/Cruise, BVI. Royal BVI Yacht Club (RBVIYC), Carriacou Children’s Education Fund Barbecue, Carriacou. Carriacou Children’s Education Fund Charity Auction, Carriacou. Cudjoe Head Celebrations, Montserrat. Emancipation Day Regatta, St. Lucia. SLYC, www.stluciayachtclub.com. MOON Public holiday in the Bahamas (Independence Day) Underwater Clean-Up, Bonaire. FULL Cruzan Open One Design Regatta, St. Croix, USVI. Club (SLYC), St. Lucia Optimist & Laser Championships. St. Lucia Yacht Public holiday in Bonaire (Pentecost) MOON places (Whit Monday) Public holiday in many FULL and some other places Public holiday in the BVI, Montserrat Solstice Summer & Tobago (Labour Day) Public holiday in Trinidad www.fete-musique.net Fête de la Musique, Martinique. (Corpus Christi) Public holiday in many places in many fishing villages Fisherman’s Birthday. Celebrations If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, Antigua & Barbuda (Vere Cornwall Bird Sr. Day) Public holiday in the Cayman Islands (Constitution Day) Public holiday in Day Competition. www.bequiatourism.com Bequia Fishermen’s Public holiday in some places (Ascension Day) Public holiday in the Bahamas (Labour Day) World Environment Day please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and contact infor- 17 – 20 www.beyc.com/index.php/bvi-billfish-tournament.html 17 – 24 22 – 6 Aug 23 www.rbviyc.org 24 – 1 Aug 27 [email protected] 28 – 1 Aug 29 [email protected] 30 31 1 1 - 3 [email protected] 4 Day) and the BVI (Territory 4 – 5 8 – 10 8 – 17 9 10 10 www.dive-friends-bonaire.com/clean_up_dives 14 15 16 16 – 1 Aug St. Croix Yacht Club (SCYC), www.stcroixyc.com JULY (CNM), www.clubnautiquedumarin.com 2 2 – 4 (CNM), 2 – 5 3 5 6 – 11 www.hemingwaycuba.com/hemingway-fishing-tournament.html 9 – 13 [email protected] Náutico Intl. Hemingway (CNIH), 10 – 12 www.antiguabarbudasportfishing.com www.smyc.com 11 www.stluciayachtclub.com 11 – 12 (SMYC), 11 – 12 11 – 12 www.j24barbados.com 12 12 – 19 12 – 19 13 13 15 17 www.errolflynnmarina.com Birthday celebrated) (UK Queen’s 18 18 – 19 18 – 19 19 21 Yacht Club (STYC), www.styc.net St. Thomas 21 23 24 – 26 25 – 26 25 – 26 26 – 3 July 28 29 http://go-hiho.com JUNE JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES • FILLERSSTAINLESSFASTENERSADHESIVES • SPRAYPAINTSROLLERSBRUSHESTOOLS Incl. Pilots, Chandlery, Charts, • CLEANING SUPPLIES • TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 BEQUIA VENTURE CO. 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I W E Y S T

E S S E L B A A Y L M Didier and Maria TTASTE U N

I S right in the heart of Gros Islet right in the heart of Gros N A Saturday by appointment N O # D E A tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 BBAY D Genuine local and international cuisine Genuine SSAILS located at Carenantilles dockyard O LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE L e-mail: [email protected] O Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) Voiles Assistance RRODNEY For reservations & information Tel: (758) 450-9792 Tel: reservations & information For GGOLDEN St. Lucia I L P E S C H A N D R H                F D P  E T R A C  D Watermakers N I W Marine Electrics S Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean G [email protected] A [email protected] L F Installation / Repair Tel: (0) 596 71 41 61 Fax: (0) 596 71 77 I I N R G G G Le Marin, Martinique Shipchandler, Artimer Phone: +(596) 596 74 8033 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05 www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected] Tel: + (596) 596 650 524 Fax: + (596) 596 650 053 + (596) 596 650 Tel: Zac artimer - Le Marin, Martinique FWI LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE • GRENADA JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 herd ofyachtieswhosecatamaransbob in themarbleswirlsofchannel. acquaintance he’sperchedinthethirdstory ofhisownrestaurant,laughingwitha better hingesthanthat,andlookwhathappens totheminayear.” has turnedouttobemoreworkthanworking everwas. was officiallysupposedtokickoffhisretirement. Sincethenroutinemaintenance of Utila.ExpatHenryKarpinskibuiltit from thegroundup.Thelastnailpounded es onstilts. ground andaschoolcourtyard,theplaceissolidcinderblockwood-panelhous- stroll wetraversetheminsevenminutes.Otherthanafewoddtrianglesofopen shoo usoff. B. Intheendtheysimplygiveusaroomkeywithoutmakingpayanything and crous —itistheequivalentoforderingaBLTsandwichandaskingthemtohold the upon allCaptainMorganemployees.Nobodyhaseverrequestedsomethingsoludi- transportation toandfromUtilaTown,plusfreekayakuse. Morgan DiveCentreinthecayoscanbehadforsixdollarsanightandincludes toward BlueBayou.Which,thankstotheheadwind,liesthreehoursdistant. keeps saying,thumpinghischest. saved byCaptainMorgan! getting savedMateogoessilentandlooksuptoheavenwhilewobblingattheknees. he twirledtheshirtoverhisheadwithonearmhelddoginother.Upon part. Andwedid:thislittleruntofadogyappingalloverwastherewithhim.While the pastor ately handsittothetoddler,whoseemsconfused. course. Hegivesmeabentaluminumfishinghookinstead. patch. I’mtemptedtoacceptthisgiftteachhimalesson,butintheendrefuse,of — On thebalconywegetagoodviewofthis andeverythingelse.Turningourheads Not thatHenry’scomplaining—thecayo lifesuitshim.Whenwemakehis “Look atthis,”Henrysays,pointingto rusted doorhinges.“Youcan’tevenbuy Yllithia andIeatbreakfastinTheLighthouse Restaurant,theclassiestjointinall The mysteryofthecayosfadesquicklyonceyou’reinthem.Evenataleisurely The factthatwewanttostaythenightbutdon’tfeellikedivingshowersconfusion Further discussionwithexpatJamieturnsusontoadeal:roomattheCaptain We paddleintothehell-blastwindsandthusbeginourmillimetricprogression Most ofthemlookonthevergeweepingaswedepart.“Friendsporlife,”Mateo Touching, tobesure.ButintheendIstillcan’tavoidsmilingaboutit:apastor Itellhimweknowhisstoryandhetellsusanyway,incasemisseda At thatMateo’seyebrowsbecometwinboomerangs.Andthenwegetit:Mateois “Time togo,”Isay.“Thewindgrowsfierce.” We returntoseeYllithiahandingMartathelittlecashwebrought.Sheimmedi- In aclearinglieshissleepingbag.It’scheapandgreasywithphonyNorthFace Continued frompage23 ! Caribbean CompassMarketPlace [email protected] or contactyourlocalislandagent MARKET PLACEAD YOUR THIS COULDBE Book itnow:

toddler, whognawsonaDiamondCay-grown how harditmayoccasionallygethere,it’s theGardenofEdencomparedtothere. spit thembackout.Thechildrenscream andweepallthroughthenight.Nomatter in it.Therainpoursonthemandthemosquitoessandflieschewup good-natured man,thekidsclamberoverhimlikeajunglegymandhesmiles. it likeaplowacrossthechannel.Yllithia,paddlingdaintily,bringsfood. of themhasaholeinitthesizetangerine.ThismakessoheavyIhavetodrive to theright,forexample,weseecastawaysofDiamondCaybustlingabout. other options. the starsandshareacandlelitfeast. pounce aboutintheshallows.Thisevening thewholefamilywillsittogetherbeneath Kayaking throughthemangrovechannel I letoutalonglowwhistleandsmilelike ahorse.IobserveMartaobservingthe Chatting withhimIdiscoverthattheydohaveashackonUtilabutcan’tbeartolive Our firstsurpriseonDiamondCayisPapá.He’sback!Aseeminglygentleand Turns outtherearebuttwoCaptainMorgan’skayaksavailabletoguestsandone Paradise doesn’thavetobeperfect,I think, solongasit’sbetterthanyour

almendra fruit.Theshark-panthers JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 pit, counting e at Prickly Bay where they were go to wish them “Happy Mother’s ivers. We hope that they were all as , and their pirogue taken in tow. heir lucky Mother’s Day rescue. d to hear their voices; it was so uplifting hich took cover under their pirogue and ft us with many hugs, ten million “thank Nauti Cat Happy day. After being adrift for nearly a week, Nkosi Walker and Kern Herry of Tobago were picked up some Happy day. After being adrift for nearly a week, Nkosi aboard the yacht 30 miles off Grenada by John Cluistra and his family Mother’s Day’ They soon phoned Tobago to wish their mothers ‘Happy

they drank copious amounts of water, tried to eat some bread, cheese and chocolate, and then lay down in the shade in the cock they drank copious amounts of water, tried to eat some

by Denise Cluistra we had to change course by 30 we had to change course Nauti Cat

Sea Rescue Sea

Nauti Cat, Mother’s Day Day Mother’s We came into Grenada that evening and John dinghied Kern and Nkosi, together with their pirogue, to the Grenada coast guard bas We came into Grenada that evening and John dinghied Two days later their friend from Tobago arrived in his large pirogue with safety gear and escorted them back to Tobago. They le Two days later their friend from Tobago arrived in his sail to Tobago some day to meet them in Castara Village and recount t We will remain in contact on Facebook and will definitely Once we were within range of cell phone signals from Grenada we gave them our mobile phones to phone their mothers back in Toba Once we were within range of cell phone signals from We threw them a line and John and I agreed that We threw them a line and John Once aboard Upon approaching them we stood off to ascer- Upon approaching them we On Sunday afternoon, May 8th, while sailing to On Sunday afternoon, May Day” — and what happy mothers they had! Their families had been praying for their safe return for many days and were so relieve Day” — and what happy mothers they had! Their families had been looking for them plus two more missing fishermen and two lost d to witness them hearing such joy. Tobago’s coast guard lucky as Kern and Nkosi. given accommodation and food. and promises of taking safety gear on their next fishing trip. you’s” in writing and in words, invitations to Tobago — their blessings. it was safe to bring Kern Herry, 23, and Nkosi it was safe to bring Kern Walker, 24, aboard. They turned out to be two long-standing friends from junior school days, both from Castara Village, who had gone fishing for the day, lost petrol through a leak on the out- board fuel line and tried to swim the boat back close enough to Tobago to get a cell phone signal. But the current carried them away. Eventually they found themselves far out at sea, having to cool and left praying for a rescue. Luckily some big fish chased a tuna, w immerse themselves in the sea in the daytime to keep tain what their problem was. They were ecstatic They were ecstatic tain what their problem was. adrift from Tobago for to see us as they had been supply of water, no six days, with only one day’s no signaling mirror or food, no flares, no torch, (ships) they had seen radio. The only two vessels They were giving up had passed without a glance. to drink seawa- hope of a rescue and had started ter out of desperation. other half went off. This tuna probably saved their lives. they managed to gaff it and eat half of it raw before the Grenada from Trinidad on our Admiral 38 catama- Grenada from Trinidad on our ran, stern of a passing ship degrees to go around the what seemed to be a and thus fortunately noticed We got the bin- small yellow flag on the horizon. with two men in oculars and saw a small pirogue oilskins. it, furiously waving yellow JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 Tel (758)4528531 E-mail [email protected] 2009HUNTER45DS239.000US 1986OYSTER435135.000GBP 1987IRWIN44MKII119.500US 2001BAVARIA40/388.500US 1999BAVARIA38/355.000US 1997OCEANIS36CC61.000US 1982CATALINA3217.000US [email protected] Tel: (599)544-5310E-mail for BenatIslandWaterWorld Turn keyspecial,US$9,999Ask deck andseatbench,bimini. console, E-TEC40hpfront 15’ Skiff.Brandnew com/belize location-catamaran-antilles. Lying MartiniqueDétailswww. BELIZE 43,2005 [email protected] row. 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JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago