C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS JUNE 2011 NO. 18989 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
AAntiguantigua ClassicsClassics 20112011
See stories on page 24, 26 STEVE MANLEY JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Ad Sales - Debra Davis ...... 40 Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Martinique: 696 93 26 38 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) [email protected] Puerto Rico: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo Olga Diaz de Peréz Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720 8432. [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Ad Sales & Distribution - Chris Bissondath, for each of the six months spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] Distribution - Eric Bendahan Tel: (599) 553 3850, [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 222-1011, Cell: (868) 347-4890, [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] Dolly’s Deep Secrets ...... 33 Secrets Dolly’s Deep ...... 36 Sky The Caribbean ...... 37 Cruisers Cooking with ...... 38 Readers’ Forum What’s on My Mind ...... 41 Calendar of Events .....42 Caribbean Market Place ...... Classified Ads 46 ...... 46 Advertisers’ Index Compass S/V Dolce Vita ISSN 1605 - 1998 near you! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole DEPARTMENTS — Bill Bouchard ...... 32 We truly enjoy the Great job and thanks! covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, we are in the area each year. It is entertaining and a great we are in the area each year. It is entertaining and a great resource for all the cruising community. We also frequently do business with your advertisers — this is the way a publication should work, meeting the needs of all stakeholders. is published monthly by welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. at Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta 2011 See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! noresponsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts and clarity.responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length this publication, except©2011 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Ltd. short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Compass Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doyle Sails Elena can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 7 Business Briefs ...... 10 View Doyle’s Deck Regatta News...... 14 ...... Meridian Passage 2 ...... 31 Book Reviews Sailor’s Horoscope ...... 32 Island Poets ...... 33 Cruising Kids’ Corner Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass 175 BQ,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. 457-3410 Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected]
GUY DEAN nd the nd Listen… ...Shortwave weather reports 35 Imperfect Paradise ...... Honduras Bay Islands 22 Click Google Map link below to fi ...... 12 JUNE 2011 • NUMBER 189 JUNE 2011 • NUMBER www.caribbeancompass.com
The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& Suriname? Sure! ...... New summer destination 21 Down time in Tobago ...... 18Down time in Tobago Hot Stuff Grenadines’ sailors race Green and Serene VERSOL WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED Cover photo: Photographer Steve Manley’s study of a crewmember on the bowsprit of the schooner Cover photo: Photographer Steve Manley’s study of a crewmember JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 being inSt.George’sHarbourandboomingbusinessthetown.“Allrestau- and ARCEurope—harshweatherintheAtlanticledtomorethan75yachts George’s, andtheislandasawhole,”hesaid. visit. “It’ssomethingthatwouldbehugelybeneficialforallthebusinessesinSt. said thatbyextendingperiodto90days,itwouldencouragemoreyachts spend 21daysontheislandbeforetheyhavetorequestanextension,butBascome Government toextendtimelimitsforsailorsvisitingtheisland.Sailorscancurrently Bermuda RoyalGazette &Updates Info The mayorwasspeakingasacombinationoftwosailingrallies—theAtlanticCup According toareportbyOwainJohnston-BarnesintheMay12thissueof Bermuda MayorSays‘LetYachtsStay!’
, St.George’sMayorKennethBascomeiscallingfor GLENN TUCKER/THE ROYAL GAZETTE ROYAL TUCKER/THE GLENN be requested extension must weeks beforean are givenjustthree stay. Currentlythey three-month initial allow yachtvisitorsa for Immigrationto Bermuda, iscalling St. George’s, Bascome of Mayor Kenneth The daily openingsoftheSimpsonBayBridge: Dutch Caribbeanpoliceresources. addition toincreasingcooperationwiththeFrenchsideGendarmesandother and theRoyalMarechausseeswillsendanadditional20officersfromHolland,in vice intimefornextseason. service. TheSMMTAhopestoestablishamorepermanentversionoftheshuttleser- tion onSt.Maarteningeneral,andtoencouragetheuseoftemporaryshuttle police forcetoupdateyachtspeopleonthegypsytaxidangerandcrimesitua- the latenighthours. and SMMTAmembers.Localtaxiassociationsalsoincreasedtheiravailabilityduring Bay stripatnightaswellafreecrew-shuttleservicesponsoredbythenightclubs side TaxiAssociationsresultedinSMMTA-sponsoredincreasedpatrolsoftheSimpson officials. SubsequentmeetingswithlocalnightclubownersandDutchFrench Association (SMMTA)tookaverypro-activeapproachandmetwithseniorpolice up potentialvictims. 26th. Incustodyarethreemenwhopretendedtobeoperatingagypsytaxipick The solvedcrimesincludethekillingofyachtchefLudovicGuillevinonFebruary Royal Marechaussees,andGendarmesstationedontheFrenchsideofisland. the PoliceForcesofAruba,Bonaire,Curaçao,KingdomCooperationTeamRST, thanks tocooperationbetweenlocalSt.Maartenpolice,theProsecutor’sOffice, the gypsytaxibanditsbetweenFebruary26thandMarch4thhavebeensolved Bermuda’s watersandspendtheirmoneyhereastourists.” boat andthecrewshouldbegivensameamountoftime,sotheycancruise to threemonths,evenunattended,iftheygetpermission.Whatwearesayingisthe and exploreBermuda,orhangaroundspendmoney.Theboatcanup one daysgoesveryquickly.Itdoesn’talwaysleaveanyrealopportunitytocruise potential valuetotheislandofhavingvisitingyachtspeoplestaylonger.“Twenty- town andthebusinesses.” increased,” hesaid.“Youcanseeforyourselfwhattheyachtsaredoing me toreconsiderandwritethecurrentministeraskforlimitbe limit beextended,butwasnevergivenaresponse.“Thelastweekorsohascaused previously sentalettertoformerMinisterinchargeofImmigrationrequestthe rants’ balconiesarefullofpeople,”Bascomesaid.Themayoraddedthathehad —Continuedonnextpage At 9:30and11:30 The St.MaartenMarineTradesAssociationreports: Simpson BayBridgeSummerSchedule For moreinformationfromtheSMMTAseeadonpage15. The St.Maartenpoliceforcewillbeadding70newofficersbytheendofyear Two captains’securitybriefingswereheld,whichincludedrepresentativesofthe Immediately followingthedeathofChefGuillevin,St.MaartenMarineTrades Three murders,twoviolentrobberiesandonerapecommittedinSt.Maartenby St. MaartenPro-ActiveonCrime Mark SoaresofBermudaYachtServicesagreedwiththemayor,stressing At 4:30 At 5:30 PM PM : inboundtrafficallowed. : outboundtrafficallowed. AM : thevesseltrafficwillbeoutboundfirst,andafterthatinbound.
This summertherewillbefour JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 Pied See and scroll to share your , anchored in , anchored in Asti Spumante. Minshara , she considered herself very much a , she considered herself very , with 20,000 reviews, some 1,500 www.street-iolaire.com/index.htm , with a 70-year-old British singlehander named British singlehander named , with a 70-year-old . Nergal , Santa Cruz 70 hull Number One, and won numerous races , Santa Cruz 70 hull Number Caribbean Compass in 1999. Howard Palmer of Barbados was tactician and sev- in 1999. Howard Palmer of Barbados was tactician and family. Pauline returned to the cosmos from whence she family. Pauline returned to http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Women_Cruisers https://activecaptain.com Blondie Pied Piper Compass www.adrenalinesun.com , the former ‘Boat Watch’ Subject Returns ‘Boat Watch’ Subject ketch The 50-foot fibreglass Tubb aboard — a full month later — Laurie On May 18th Trevor thanked everyone involved in the boat watch for their concern. Trevor thanked everyone involved Eight Bells PAULINE DOLINSKI with great sadness that I have to inform you that Pauline Voytek Dolinski reports: It is • A new yahoo group has been formed by a group of women cruisers in • A new yahoo group has been formed by a group of • Heading for the US this summer (or already there)? Check out the interactive • Heading for the US this summer (or already there)? Check Voytek and Pauline cruised aboard their 30-foot Islander, Voytek and Pauline cruised Cruisers’ Site-ings • Hurricane season is here again. Visit including sailing and surf- • For a refreshing approach to Caribbean action sports, DICK JENNINGS died on May 17th. The Great Lakes-based sailor had a Racing sailor Dick Jennings Trevor aboard, reportedly left Isla Margarita, Venezuela on April 18th bound for St. Venezuela on April 18th reportedly left Isla Margarita, Trevor aboard, widespread take about four days. A that might be expected to Maarten, a sail destina- had not arrived at its intended was initiated after the yacht “boat watch” tion by April 28th. Margarita, reported: “Trevor turned up here in Margarita this morning… fit, healthy in Margarita this morning… “Trevor turned up here Margarita, reported: problems, steering and no-wind really annoying! He had engine, and of course, but had no (got to within 15 miles attempts to reach St. Maarten made several to return here. Basically he was bobbing around radio) and made a few attempts out there.” days after her 68th birthday. Creator of the original Dolinski died on April 27th, eight Word Search Puzzles in Cartagena, Colombia as a meeting place for women cruising throughout the world. Cartagena, Colombia as a meeting place for women full-time or part-time, you Whether you are aboard a sailing or motor vessel, cruise are invited to join experiences, ideas and knowledge. cruising guide at day from marinas. updates per day from boaters and several hundred a page —Continued on next came. She lived a life full of intelligence, curiosity, adventure, passion, and dreams. intelligence, curiosity, adventure, passion, and dreams. came. She lived a life full of to teaching children that realizing one’s dreams Her professional life was dedicated many of her own dreams she realized. I had the is possible; it is remarkable how be part of that life. honor and good fortune to part of the Piper to all who met him, while eral Bajans were aboard. Dick was generous and gracious He will be missed.’ maintaining a fierce competitive presence on the racecourse. a dozen articles full of hurri- down the right-hand side of the page to download half cane tips from Don Street. ing, visit Voytek’s poem about sailing with Pauline on page 32. Voytek’s poem about sailing for a few years on one of a series of yachts called Caribbean racing campaign I and raced the St. Maarten in the Caribbean circuit. Ellen Sanpere says, “Tony and Heineken on
CHRIS DOYLE Continued from previous page Continued from There will be special openings in cases of inclement weather and during hurricane There will be special openings in cases of inclement weather per day, will be The resumption of the high-season schedule, with six openings We would like to remind all vessels to call “Bridge Attendant” on VHF channel 12 “Bridge Attendant” on VHF to remind all vessels to call We would like time, then call in for an exact opening going into the lagoon may Smaller vessels Open wide! The SMMTA has announced the summer schedule for openings of the Open wide! The SMMTA has announced the summer schedule St. Maarten’s lagoon Simpson Bay Bridge that allows vessels to enter and exit enter the channel and stand by to reduce the transit time. Jetskis should use the enter the channel and stand by to reduce the transit time. should not enter the north part, which does not swing, and rowboats and kayaks channel when the bridge is in operation. 12, local radio stations season. These will be announced via e-mail, VHF channel Bridge attendants will and, given enough time, the local and regional newspapers. be near their stations if required to answer any radio requests. announced at a later date. before transiting, stating their name and intention to enter or depart. stating their name and before transiting, — JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 hotly contestedannualKubuliCaribcanoerace. Dive Festofferswhalewatching,achildren’streasurehunt,beachpartiesandthe ties arefreeoravailableataconsiderablyreducedrate.Inadditiontodiveevents, number ofdivingsessionsscheduledforbothadultsandchildren,manyactivi- Dominica’s 18thannualDiveFest—scheduledforJuly8ththrough17th.Therearea about whatworks(anddoesn’t)aboardaboat. foods thatstorewellonaboat.Insixyearsoffull-timecruising,Carolynlearnedlot focus onpracticalwaystocookwithoutpreparedfoodsorelectricappliances,with the mostoutoftheirgalleys.WrittenbyformercruiserCarolynShearlock,articles visit Carriacou Freeport(asreportedbyChrisDoyleintheJanuaryissueof — • Liketoeatonyourboat?Sure,wealldo! For moreinformationvisitwww.dominica.dm/site/divefest.cfm. Preparations areunderwayfortheCaribbean’slongest-runningdivingfestival— Dominica DiveFestforJuly • ForthelatestnewsfromGrenadaActionForumregardingproposed Continued frompreviouspage 284-494-2830 Parts &Power: 284-494-3494 Marine MaintenanceSvcs: 284-494-2400 Cay Electronics: Tortola: 868-634-4272 Dockyard Electrics: 868-667-7158 Engine Tech Co.Ltd: Trinidad &Tobago: 340-775-9912 All PointsMarine: St. Thomas: 599-544-2051 Electec: St. Maarten: 758-450-0552 Martinek: St. Lucia: 340-776-6665 Coral BayMarine: St. John: 340-773-0289 St. CroixMarine: St. Croix: 596-596-787-196 Inboard DieselSvcs: Martinique: 473-439-2049 Enza Marine: 473-443-1667 Grenada Marine: Grenada: 767-448-2705 Dominica MarineCenter: Dominica: 784-457-3114 Caribbean Diesel: Bequia: 268-460-3049 Seagull Yacht Svcs: 268-460-1850 Marine PowerSvcs: Antigua: http://grenadaactionforum.com/2011 C001 . TheBoatGalley.com www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com Reliability. Durability. Simplicity. Simplicity. Durability. Durability. Reliability. into hernewwebsite cruising cookexperience put sixyearsof Carolyn Shearlockhas helpsboatersget Compass ), wholesalers oftheUSA,onpage45.Goodtohaveyouwithus! Caribbean Compass 30th, surroundedbyfamilyandfriends.Liesbetisafrequentcontributorto happily launchedintotheseaofmatrimonyfrombeachinSt.MartinonApril Congratulations toLiesbetCollaertandMarkKiltyoftheyacht Compass In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! Relatives throughouttheCaribbean Romance atBaieRouge:aproposalandweddingallinone… WriterTiestheKnot A FamilyofGeneratorswith Compass . ofwelcomeaboardnewadvertisersSeaSensemarine Irie
, whowere AXEL BUSCH AXEL JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 1 888 SHIP DYT • : Tel. +596 596 741 507 741 507 +596 596 : Tel. , and playing gigs in bars along the Blitz E-mail: [email protected] Compass. DYT Martinique You can download the album at CDBaby, Amazon Superyacht Services in Tobago services company Store The Tobago-based marine low sulphur, locally pro- Tobago offers high quality, For more information visit www.sbms.co.tt. Cruiser-Musician Launches CD After cruising the Caribbean for four years aboard his Go well, our friend, and a big “THANK YOU” from all and a big “THANK YOU” Go well, our friend, on Jonathan in next We’ll have more Toulon Toulon Palma de Mallorca Everglades Everglades Port 11/2011 Everglades Port 06/2011 06/2011 Everglades Port 11/2011 Port 12/2011 12/2011 record Fantastic Voyage, an album of songs about the cruising lifestyle and his experiences. or iTunes, and visit his blog at http://steveizac.blogspot.com. Bay Marine Services is now offering bunkering, provi- Bay Marine Services is now super- and megayachts. sioning and shore support for Services at SBMS, Katy Director of Superyacht Support opportunity for us, the Young says, “This is an exciting and their owners. island and for superyacht crews the superyacht custom- Tobago has so much to offer island, with unspoilt, quiet er. It is a beautiful and safe friendly people, world-class anchorages and beaches, world’s oldest protected scuba diving and one of the destination and rainforests. It is the ideal Caribbean belt.” importantly out of the hurricane the current price of less duced marine diesel, and at with other Caribbean than US$1 per litre can compete fees and port dues of destinations. With low clearance is both economically and just US$0.05 per GT, Tobago superyacht market. ecologically attractive to the catamaran, way, singer-songwriter Steve Izac returned to the UK to assisted cruisers not only with getting parts or local ser- not only with getting parts assisted cruisers kept them up and their boats but vices for themselves to weather from the Grenadines to date on the season. He during the hurricane Trinidad, especially charities. functions benefiting local actively promoted and will be sorely missed. He is an icon of us cruisers. month’s Through December 2011 Through VOYAGES FROM THE CARIBBEAN VOYAGES Nadine Massaly DYT Representative Martinique St. Thomas Martinique Martinique TO THE MEDITERRANEAN Martinique TO THE EAST COAST USA Martinique Le Marin, Martinique WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM Over the last eight years he welcomed cruisers from Practical Preparation for Offshore Sailing Practical Preparation and safe prepare you for a fun “Nothing will better held at the Sailing Seminar will be The next Offshore lec- Seminar combines classroom The Ocean Sailing learning about each Students will spend a half-day the seminar is per- Opened to all interested sailors, workshop in a classroom The Seminar is an interactive For more information on future rallies and seminars, Island Water World Grenada Manager Retires Ms. Kitty reports: Jonathan Fisher of Island Water and head back home to the UK. all over the world to this island paradise and helped to make their stay a pleasant one. His familiar voice offshore adventure to Bermuda, the Bahamas, the to Bermuda, the Bahamas, offshore adventure highly beyond than the intensive, Caribbean and says Rick Ocean Sailing Seminar,” practical two-day USA. for World Cruising Club Palm, Event Manager Hampton, Hotel on the waterfront in Crowne Plaza September 24th and 25th. Virginia, USA on and one-on-one interac- tures with group discussions students. An all-inclusive tion with speakers and fellow speaker materials, program of seminar presentations, and social time hotel accommodations, meals, a cost-effective, enjoy- together combine to provide able in-depth learning experience. outfitting your boat for off- of four major subject areas: boat and crew off- shore cruising; managing your and planning for off- shore; understanding weather in the islands and a shore emergencies; plus cruising timeline to departure. transition from coastal fect for those considering the It is also highly cruising to bluewater passagemaking. and crew of the recommended for future skippers Rally for Cruisers, Caribbean 1500 Rally, the Atlantic and the World ARC. to present practical infor- setting. The speaker’s role is mation derived from the millions of offshore miles that rally participants have experienced over the com- bined total of nearly 50 years in the Caribbean 1500, the ARC, the World ARC, and other World Cruising Club sailing events. visit www.carib1500.com or www.worldcruising.com. World in Grenada has decided to give up island life . We love being S/V Marie Galante II
Yacht at Rest, Mind at Ease Yacht Photo by Onne van der Wal
During our first season the marina management If you are staying at anchor or at other locations on This is one of many activities to do during hurricane For more information on Port Louis Marina see ad on This will be the third summer at Port Louis for Lucie
Port Louis: ‘Come Play Grenada Carnival!’ Port Louis: ‘Come reports: If you are still wondering Richard Rolland lagoon of St. George’s natural Enjoy the protection BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS just steps away from the parades and other carnival activities such as Monday Mas, J’ouvert, the night parade and other events. Port Louis offers a secure base from which to enjoy the music, dancing, drinking and fun. arranged for a carnival band to play at the marina. Guests were given a preview of the music, a chance to see the costumes and to have the workings of car- nival explained. Eight of us decided to “live the expe- rience” and what an experience it was — to be immersed in a sea of colour and beautiful costumes! Last summer 16 cruisers from the marina participated in the carnival and had a blast. the island, you can call Port Louis (435-7432) for infor- mation on participating in the carnival activities. The more cruisers we have participating, the more fun we will have. This is an excellent opportunity to reunite with old friends and make new ones, and to enjoy the company of the uniquely generous, welcoming and honest Grenadian people. season and one not to miss. Come and live the Grenada Carnival experience and we are sure you will want to come back for more. page 11. wind around the lagoon. Grenada Carnival 2011 runs from August 5th through 9th. and me aboard where to spend the hurricane season, Grenada — the hurricane season, Grenada where to spend to be. Louis Marina — is the place especially Port amenities while you join in and Port Louis’s convenient festivities. Lime and the carnival preparations and carnival costume or take wine in your very own exotic for the parades as they advantage of front-row seats JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 event reporterChrisWalter. reporter JerryStewart,destinationcorrespondentAmalThomas,andenvironmental commentator NoelMawer,poetDillonOllivierre,featurewriterFrankPearce,regatta Suzanne LongacreandJohnGideonse,featurewriterCherylJohnson,sailing-scene reviewer BobBerlinghof,poetNanHatch,thewriter-and-photographerteamof Present thisyear(inalphabeticalorder),alongwiththeirinvitedguests,werebook sailboat racing,hasbeenaninspirationtonewgenerationsoffemalesailors. who, byprovingthatanall–womanteamcancompeteatthetoplevelsofCaribbean Ted andMaryAnnBull.AnotherspecialguestwasBrendaFarfan Belmar. Wewerealsopleasedtowelcome & theGrenadinesMinistryofTourism’snewestCommunicationManager,Yonnette were oneofourveryfirstBrunchguestspeakers,SirJamesMitchell,andSt.Vincent Sally Erdle,ProductionManagerWilfredDedererandBookkeeperDebraDavis— a vitalsourceofinformationaboutyachtingintheCaribbean. the pastyear’scontributorswhoprovidecontentthatmakes getting togetherwith,andsaying“thankyou”inpersonto,asmanypossibleof Compass PublishingLtd.’sannualpre-EasterRegattaWriters’Brunchisourwayof ered forthe15thAnnualCompassWriters’BrunchatMac’sPizzeriainBequia. call fromyachtspeopleandmarinebusinessassociationsforyachttourismpolicies 15 yearsthat tourism policies—includingyachtpolicies.Thisiswelcomenews.Overthe union, OECSMemberStatesareworkingtowardtheprogressiveharmonizationof Grenadines. Asakeyingredientinthesuccessfulestablishmentofaneconomic Dominica, Grenada,Montserrat,St.Kitts&Nevis,LuciaandVincentthe the MemberStates:Anguilla,Antigua&Barbuda,BritishVirginIslands, Economic UnionandthecreationofaSingleFinancialSpaceamong Basseterre, whichcameintoforceinJanuaryandaimsatestablishmentofanOECS absence, herspeechwaskindlyreadbyTomHopman. she hascontinuedtomoveyachtingmattersforwardonasubregionallevel.Inher position asDirectorGeneraloftheOrganizationEasternCaribbeanStates(OECS), cruise-ship passengersinmanyislandsoftheEasternCaribbean.Inhercurrent mark studypublishedin2004thatfamouslyprovedyachtingvisitorsoutspend Commission forLatinAmericaandtheCaribbean(ECLAC),sheinitiatedbench- Director oftheSubregionalHeadquartersUnitedNationsEconomic keen St.Luciansailorandastrongadvocatefortheyachttourismindustry.While nately thiswasanotherofthosetimes.Scheduledfor2011Dr.LenIshmael,a Chris Doyle. sailor PaulJohnson;andtheEasternCaribbean’spremiercruisingguideauthor, Association, DickStoute;yachtdesigner,marineartistandlegendarybluewater Yachting AssociationandSecretaryChiefMeasureroftheCaribbean Caribbean MarineAssociation,SharonMcIntosh;pastpresidentoftheBarbados Government’s YachtingSteeringCommitteeandformerManageroftheregional Association ofTrinidad&Tobago,formerChairmantheTobago Administration, CommanderDavidRobin;formerGeneralManagerofYachtServices Commander andcurrentheadoftheSt.Vincent&GrenadinesMaritime Youth andtheSeasail-trainingprogram,ChesterPeters;thenCoastGuard Chairman oftheBequiaTourismAssociationandleaderRotaryClub’s officer providedauniquelinkbetweenofficialdomandyachtingvisitors;former Grenadines, SirJamesMitchell;SylvesterTannis,whoasBequia’sChiefRevenue have includedyachtsman,authorandformerPrimeMinisterofSt.Vincent&the tradition shortlythereafter,andwestartedinvitingguestspeakersin2000.Speakers Contributors AskedforInput on SubregionalYachtPolicy On April21st,morethan30 The firstissueof The starsofeveryCompassWriters’Brunchare,course,ourcontributors. Joining the Dr. Ishmael’sremarkstothegatheringweremadeinlightofRevisedTreaty On twopastoccasions,ourscheduledspeakerwasunabletoattend,andunfortu- 15th Annual Caribbean Compass Compass Compass CockpitCrew—ManagingDirectorTomHopman,Editor waspublishedin1995,theannualBrunchbecamea Compass Compass hasbeenpublished,thereaconsistent contributors,staffandspecialguestsgath- Compass’s Writers’Brunch: formerSt.Luciaislandagents, Caribbean Compass
from Trinidad, this month. rechecking intoGrenada. to clearoutwithCustoms,Immigration andthePortsAuthorityinSVGthen far asUnionIsland.Headdedthattheybecome discouragedbytheprocessofhaving moving betweenGrenadaandSt.Vincent &theGrenadines. able toexploittheyachtingmarketbecause ofadministrativedifficultiesinvessels the bestsailingwatersinCaribbean. However,hesaidthecountryhasnotbeen offer,” MinisterDavidsaid. what wehavetooffer.Morevisitingyachtsmeanmoredemandfortheservices we Grenada ifwemakeiteasiertosailfromtheGrenadinesandintoenjoy giving itsfullestsupporttotheinitiative.“Webelievemoreyachtswillcome into points throughoutthenation. secured thenecessaryfundingtoequipvariousportsofentryandothercheck- anticipation oftheSYS,MarineandYachtingAssociationGrenadahasalready vides advancednoticefortheclearanceofyachts,inandoutislands. In and PortsAuthorityadministrativeprocessthatiselectronicallyoperated,pro- between theislands.BothnationsarehopingforasimplifiedCustoms,Immigration Department andvariouspartnerswithintheyachtingsector. Grenada’s MinistryandBoardofTourism,theGrenadaPortsAuthority,Customs committee thatmetonMay16th.Theincludesrepresentativesfrom be usedasapilotmoduleforthedevelopmentofanOECSSingleYachtingSpace. Yachting Space(SYS)betweenthetwocountries.TheGrenada-SVGSYSislikely to for negotiationswithSt.Vincent&theGrenadinesoncreationofaSingle single clearanceswouldbefullyimplementedintheOECSmarinespace. agreed tourgetheAuthoritysetdateofDecember1st,2011asabywhich and hasslesthatcouldimpedethefurthergrowthofyachtinginOECS.Ministers undertaken asamatterofurgencytowardstheeliminationunnecessarybarriers Islands hasalreadyfullyimplementedtheeSeaClearsystem. intent toalsoproceedthisimplementationinduecourse.TheBritishVirgin clearance assoonpossible,apilotexercise.Otherministersindicatedtheir informed themeetingoftheirintentiontoproceedwithalreadyagreedeSeaClear made tofacilitatethemovementofyachtsthroughwatersOECS. yachting intheOECSmarinespace.TheMinistersagreedthateveryeffortmustbe engaged inaveryspiriteddiscussiononthesubstantialvalueandimportanceof Ministers ofTourismmeetinginSt.Kitts&NevisonApril19th, Brunch, alwaysheldontheThursdaybeforeEaster. your talentandefforts—wehopetoseeyouatafuture Pizzeria staff.Thenitwastimetopreparefortheraces—ormaybetakeanap! over abountifulbrunchbuffetpreparedbyJudySimmonsandherexcellentMac’s Policy [email protected]. states aboard. first steptowardthemoreproblematicexerciseofgettingallnineOECSmember “single yachtingspace”wasfirmlyendorsedasbeingpossiblythemostworkable was notedthatprovidingacommonformis,infact,whateSeaClearalreadydoes. to somewhatdifferentpricing(“especiallyassomecountrieshavemoreoffer”).It ance proceduresandastandardformthroughouttheOECS,wouldnotobject cated thatthey,andtheyfelttheirpeers,wouldavidlywelcomecommonyachtclear- each memberstatesettheamountofitsownfee.Theyachtskipperspresentindi- the yachtclearanceproceduresandtohaveastandardform,butlet on theirownbudgets,itwasfeltthatapracticalcompromisewouldbetoharmonize ceived tobethefactthateachcountrywouldwanttakedecisionsonfeesbased ments toagreeoncommonpolicy,thefollowingpointscamefore: ered, althoughsomeskepticismwasexpressedaboutgettingvariousislandgovern- throughout theEasternCaribbean. — primarilytheegregiouslydiverseclearanceprocedurestobestandardized on thesustainabledevelopmentofyachtinginEasternCaribbean More thanameal.Atthisyear’sWriters’Brunch, Grenada-SVG negotiationsontheproposed SYSareexpectedtocommence Stiell explainedthatthemajorityofyachties travelingfromnorthtosouthreachas Director attheGrenadaBoardofTourism, SimonStiell,claimsthatGrenadahas Grenada’s MinisterforTourism,PeterDavid,saidtheGrenadaGovernmentwillbe The SingleYachtingSpaceisgearedateasingthemovementofyachtssailing Grenada’s proposalstobepresentedinthenegotiationsarebeingdraftedby a On May17th,theGovernmentofGrenadaannouncedthatispreparing Grenada andSVGtoNegotiateSingleYachtingSpace The MinistersagreedtorecommendtheOECSAuthoritythatworkshouldbe The TourismMinistersofGrenada,St.Lucia,andVincent&theGrenadines After Dr.Ishmael’sspeechwaswritten,thefollowingnewsarrived:AtOECS OECS MinistersofTourismAgreetoUrgeSingleClearances To thosemanycontributorsunabletoattendthisyear,wethankyou,too,forall After Dr.Ishmael’sremarkswerediscussed,convivialconversationscontinued As Dr.Ishmaelindicated,additionalfeedbackregardingaCommonYachtTourism • TheideathatSt.Lucia,Vincent&theGrenadinesandGrenadaformapilot • BecausethemainhurdleforacommonOECSyachtclearancepolicywasper- When thefloorwasopenedfordiscussionafterDr.Ishmael’sremarksweredeliv- See excerptsfromDr.Ishmael’sremarksonpage9. News Updates Compass contributorsofferedideas Compass Writers’ JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Immigration office in the marina for clearance • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo & 7 miles East of International Airport FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMEN FOR CRUISING POINT FOCAL
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aaaaa MMMM Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Marina Zar-Par In preparation for a meeting of senior OECS tourism officials a few weeks ago in weeks ago in tourism officials a few for a meeting of senior OECS In preparation author of one of the most influential cruising guides I also contacted Chris Doyle, The Revised Treaty of been meeting in St Kitts & Over the last few days OECS Ministers of Tourism have in working with us in theIt is in this spirit that I ask for your continued goodwill • High Quality Sheltered Moorings • Slips to 120’ with depth 10’ • 70 Ton Travelift (30' beam) • ABYC certified machanics • Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps • All slips with fingers development of the OECS to be left to the vagaries of chance; it represents an incred- vagaries of chance; it represents the OECS to be left to the development of it deserves. It must be given the attention literally on our doorstep and ible resource and mem- of a common policy framework, to the development lends itself exquisitely the bid to ensure been willing partners in fraternity have always bers of the yachting viability of the sector. the growth and of Caribbean personalities in the world a couple of well-known St. Lucia, I contacted a real advocate here this morning and is Sally Erdle, your hostess yachting. One Sally and I dis- Most of the issues which sector and community. for the yachting a vibrant yacht- to the development of ago still exist and are inimical cussed years Sally emphasized the importance of standardization ing sector here in the OECS. entry fees. Her view? Harmonized fees and simple of clearance procedures and yachts to visit the OECS, and encourage clearance procedures would encourage compliance once here. in the Caribbean. Chris pointed to the need for basic infrastructure — for example, the impor- tance of dinghy docks to ensure that yachtsper- sons spend money ashore. He also under- scored the willingness of members of the yachting community to work with the public sector to ensure that plans for the industry are practical and result in the best outcomes. Basseterre identifies Oceans Governance and management of the single maritime space as one of the important aspects of the work of the OECS (Secretariat) Commission. Your being here today is both timely and vital as participants in the con- versations required to initiate the actions required to unlock the tremendous potential of the yachting sector to contribute to the devel- opment of the OECS. Issues such as pollution, and permits, anchoring and crime and safety at sea, clearance procedures, fees infrastructure and skills moorings, reef and sea grass protection, provisioning, requires further dialogue — transfer comprise some elements of the agenda which and action. in the Economic Union. Nevis to chart a new path for the management of tourism While other sectors are The yachting sector has a pivotal role to play in that regard. to contribute to the social also important, the truth is that the potential of yachting untapped. Simply put, more and economic wellbeing of this region remains largely needs to be done. development of this sector. I invite you to send to Sally ([email protected]), the OECS, your ideas regard- a Goodwill Ambassador for yachting sector interests in of islands — from the BVI ing how we ensure the transformation of this archipelago for sailing, contributing posi- in the north to Grenada in the south — into a Mecca of these islands and the social tively to the sustainable use of the natural resources and its citizens. and economic development of this corner of paradise
COURTESY THE VINCENTIAN
The OECS Secretariat has itself actively promoted and pioneered a number of ini- The OECS Council of Tourism Ministers has agreed on a number of strategic inter- In terms of average daily expenditure per visitor, even in the face of far smaller The OECS Secretariat has been working towards fulfilling a series of mandates The OECS Secretariat has been working towards fulfilling Despite the excitement associated with the creation of the Economic Union, the Despite the excitement associated with the creation On January 21st 2011, the Revised Treaty of Basseterre Establishing the On January 21st 2011, the Revised Treaty of Basseterre By pooling their financial and human resources they have built an impressive By pooling their financial and human resources they Dear friends and members of the yachting community: welcome, especially to Dear friends and members of the yachting community: Addressing OECS leaders in St. Vincent on May 18th, Dr. Ishmael said that the Addressing OECS leaders in St. Vincent on May 18th, can use to make Secretariat is gathering information that heads of Government policy for the clearance key policy decisions. These include adoption of a common of yachts into and out of OECS waters tiatives in the yachting sector over the past few years but the vital public-private sector partnerships needed to sustain these initiatives have not developed. Under the tag line “Many Islands… One Sea”, the Secretariat coordinated the first OECS presence as a guest of honor at one of the world’s premiere boat shows: the Grand Pavois in France. The Secretariat assisted with the development of marine trade associations in several Member States; used the ARC to work with Member States in the hosting of an OECS Rally; met with the largest French charter company to nego- tiate issues relating to provisioning for the yachting industry and systems for the prepayment of clearance fees; held meetings with the yachting community on crime, safety and security and on simplified procedures for clearing in and out; and initi- ated discussions between St. Vincent & the Grenadines and Grenada on the concept of the Grenadines as a single maritime space — all important, worthwhile initiatives which regrettably have not developed the traction required for their follow-up and sustainability. The potential of this industry is too vital to the social and economic ventions that need to be embraced as part of the policy-making process, including facilitating the adoption of a common policy and approach to the clearance of vessels into and out of OECS sailing waters in an efficient, seamless and business-friendly manner without compromising border security; managing opportunities for Member States to undertake joint marketing of the OECS yachting product in target mar- kets; and formulation of a Code of Ethics for operators in the yachting sector. However, all agree that enough is not being done to move these ideas, which have been on the books for years, into the series of actionable pieces that will deliver results, revenue and jobs. numbers, yachting continues to outperform the cruise sector in many OECS desti- nations. The relative economic advantages of yachting are becoming even more apparent with the growth of the mega-yachting sub-sector in the region — yet the yachting sector remains one whose huge potential is still largely untapped even though the OECS lies at the very heart of the best sailing waters in the Caribbean, if not the world. from the OECS Council of Tourism Ministers, which seeks to synchronize tourism from the OECS Council of Tourism Ministers, which at this morning’s Brunch, I development activities in the region. Given the audience will focus my remarks on just one of the tourism niche areas in which the OECS has a demonstrated competitive advantage — that of yachting. mandate to fashion a common tourism policy comes at a rather turbulent time in mandate to fashion a common tourism policy comes turbulence is what is required regional economic fortunes — but perhaps this very is charted in terms that are to provide the impetus to ensure that the way forward practical and designed to move from rhetoric to action. Organization of Eastern Caribbean States Economic Union came into effect and in Organization of Eastern Caribbean States Economic countries to an entirely new so doing took the model of integration of these nine has implications for how we level. Forming a single economic and maritime space resources and shared stocks, do business within that space, how we manage joint will be managed and operate and of course over time, how the yachting sector within that space. array of institutional architecture at the regional level providing services in common, array of institutional architecture at the regional level a single currency, a common in an attempt to derive economies of scale. They share aviation and telecommunica- judiciary, are served by a common authority for civil of the world, and have estab- tions, have joint diplomatic missions in different parts the interests of Member lished a Secretariat as part of the executive to represent States regionally and internationally. those of you who hail from outside these shores. Your visit to Bequia and this year’s those of you who hail from outside these shores. Your of times in the historical Easter Regatta coincides with one of the most exhilarating comprise the OECS, evolution of this grouping of nine micro states who collectively Island Developing States as they continue on a journey along which no other Small have gone before. Excerpts from Remarks by by Remarks from Excerpts General Director OECS Len Ishmael Dr. Brunch, at Compass 2011 April 21 Bequia, JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 friendly systemintheEasternCaribbean. Theyoffera Customs department,cameupwiththe mostyacht- where thegovernment,incooperation withthe makes ahugedifference.Kudosalso to Dominica, ism andtheneedsofyachtingcommunity. It friendly astheyrealizedtheimplications ofyachttour- tions tomakethemmucheasierand moreyacht- from thegovernment,hasreinterpreted theregula- department itself,overtheyearsandwith noprodding St. Kitts&Neviswhere,asfarIknow, theCustoms on board,justleavingAntiguatocatchup.Kudos Montserrat, St.Kitts&NevisandAnguillaarenowall Caribbean ithasexpandedsothatDominica, yachtspeople andofficials.InthenorthernEastern has definitelycomeintoitsownandishelpingboth dures wentwhereoncetheyweredifficult.ESeaClear strides madeinmanyplacesandhowsmoothlyproce- Eastern CaribbeanthisyearIwasdelightedatthe by epauletsy,farfromit.AsIwassailingthroughthe most CustomsandImmigrationofficialsareafflicted lacks perspective. estly thinksheisdoingtherightthing.Hejust epaulettic ispersonable,wellmeaningandhon- trade forthecountryheisserving. negative publicityallovertheinternet—notagreat the Customsrevenueboxand$50,000worthof court) andslappedhimwithabigfine.So,$5,000in charter comingupanddidnothavetimetowaitfor had a“gotcha”moment(heknewthecaptain purpose behindthelaw,butheadofCustoms his boat,hewasnotdoinganythingcountertothe the Customsofficewasclosed.Hetooknothingoff Customs. HehadnotyetclearedCustomsbecause next totheCustomsoffice)beforehehadcleared US$5,000 foreatinginarestaurant(thatwasright this seasonwhenacharterboatcaptainwasfined whom theyhavepower.Therewasagoodcaseofit and actuallytakepleasureinharassingthoseover where theofficialsdonotcareaboutindustry, sionally getacaseofmalignantepauletsy.Thisis the wholeAPISbusinessafewyearsback.Weocca- machinery. Occasionallywenarrowlyescape,aswith up, sometimesaseffectivelythrowingsandin has afitofepauletsyandmanagestomessthings when thingsstarttogowell,someofficialsomewhere throughout theEasternCaribbean.Mostyears,just ing theyachtingindustryinbroadestsense all-round hardship. tively affecttheeconomythatsupportsthem,causing sarily harassingthoseoverwhomtheyhaveauthority. purpose behindtheregulations,andendupunneces- ously andnarrowly,ignoringthereasonoverall whereby suchpersonsconsiderregulationsfartooseri- garments withepaulettes.Aformoftunnelvision affliction thatoccasionallysurfacesinthosewhodon I wouldn’tliketogivetheimpressionthatthink Happily, malignantepauletsyisrare.Usuallythe I haveworkedformanyyearsinthefieldofpromot- Epaulettic —onesufferingfromepauletsy. Side effects:Personssufferingfromthediseasenega- Epaulette Disease,Epauletsy—Apsychological Epaulette Disease DECK VIEWFROMTIKANOTBYCHRISDOYLE bureaucracy hasbeenmultiplyinglike rabbitsin Now thatStatiahasbecomepartofthe Netherlands, Statia withnoproblemoneithersidefor manyyears. year comesfromtinyStatia.Yachtshave beenvisiting tor ofthetourismindustry? is theextrasecurityworthdamageto aprovensec- spend theirtimefillinginforms)andeven iftheydid, going tomakeanydifference(crooksdo notgenerally problems, butitisunclearthattighterrestrictions are ulations. IamsuretheCustomsfeeltheyfacesecurity yachting canpossiblyreboundunderthecurrentreg- nitely nothelpinganditishardtoseehowTrinidad tions contributingtothis,buttheofficialsaredefi- in 2000.TherearefactorsotherthanCustomsregula- fewer thanathousand,fromhighofmore2,600 Annual yachtarrivalsinTrinidadarenowdownto permission eachtimetheywanttomovetheboat. now demandsyachtskippersvisitCustomsandget dom tovisittheiranchoragesofchoice,officialdom Compass backwards. IhavealreadywrittenaboutTrinidadin talk aboutepauletsy,Iamtalkingbigleaps would bewayaheadofwherewearenow.ButwhenI just geteveryonetoadoptDominica’sregulationswe ing community. all youneed.Thisishugelyappreciatedbytheyacht- two-week in-and-outclearance;onetriptoCustomsis rules foryachts impressive diving…andproblematicnewImmigration history, friendlypeople,enjoyablerestaurants, Below: ThewharfatOranjeBaai.Statiahasarich you’ll wanttodepartbeforeabadnortherlyswell Oranje Baai,St.Eustatius(Statia)isusuallycalm,but Above: Theanchoragebehindthebreakwaterat Perhaps themostegregiouscaseofepauletsy this Many islandsstillhavealongwaytogo.Ifwecould . Havingformerlyallowedyachtsrelativefree- month’s initials onlysosheisinnowayassociatedwith thisarticle. tioned existonlyinthemindofepaulettic. teria, areunnecessary.Thesecurityproblems men- aggravating, willdonogoodand,byany objectivecri- “prey on”poorlittleStatia.Thesenewrestrictions are that suddenlynefariousyachtspeopleare waitingto years, anditisastretchoftheimaginationtosuppose crime regardingnormalyachtingvisitorsoverthelast has beenworkingwellforyearsinStatia,Iknowofno ter aresimple.Everythingbetweenyachtsandofficials is charmingandhelpful.However,thefactsofmat- the personwhowrotethis,buteveryoneassuresmehe morning; wewon’tacceptthis. 1800 hoursandthendepartat0500thenext leave theisland,notthattheyclearoutforexample can contactusandasktobeclearedoutrightaway staying herewouldendangerhis/hervesselthenthey our quietandalmostcrime-freeisland. that wemustbeanopenhousetoeveryonepreyon have vesselsenterourislandbutthatmustnotmean new lawsthathavebeenapplied. within ourofficehours. airplanes thattravelsin/outofourbordersmustdoso BES article2.3toegang/Entryexplainsthatvesselsor will bethere.InourlawitwrittenassuchintheWTU whenever Igavesomeoneatimetoclearoutbelieve strict controlbutatthesametimeIcanbeflexibleand e-mail howisthecrimeinthosecountries?Ibelieve ours mustbeassuch.Incountriesmentionedinyour their bordersrelaxedandnocontrolthatdoesnotmean and borderingonthedangerous. ers, considertheserestrictionsasbeingunseamanlike that oftheimmigrationofficer.I,andIthinkmostcruis- decision ofthecaptainwhenhe/sheshouldleave,not wrecked severalyachtsinStatia. avoid theswell,becauseasweknow,swellshave The captainmaywishtoleaveat0600,soshecan saying thatabigswellisduetoarriveinStatiaat0800. navigate hiswayin.Theremaybeaweatherforecast arrive athisdestinationindaylightwhenitissaferto at nightsohecansailduringsomehoursand open. Ifacaptainisgoingfurther,hemaywishtoleave sometimes shemayneedtoarrivewhencustomsis her nextdestinationduringdaylighthoursandalso need toleaveearlyinthemorningsoshecanarriveat leave ataparticulartime.Veryoftenthecaptainmay time ofdayaboatwillleave. cer isnotgoingtosea;sheshouldbedecidingwhat It hastobethecaptain’sdecision;immigrationoffi- must beallowedtheflexibilitytoleavewhenitissafest. edited forspelling): not agoodidea(bothe-mailsslightlyabbreviatedand restriction. Bye-mailItriedtopointoutwhythiswas country intheEasternCaribbeantocreatesucha during officehours.Statiathusbecomesthefirst dawn orinthemiddleofnight—youmustdepart Therefore thereisnowayyoucangetunderwayat that yachtsmustleaveonthesamedaytheyclearout. spring. ThenewImmigrationdepartmenthasdecided See anarticlebyRosieBurroncruisingStatia innext My thankstoAVfortheconceptofepaulettedisease; Iuse This tomeisaclearcaseofepauletsy.Ihavenotmet Division SintEustatius Koninklijke Marechaussee(RoyalMilitaryPolice) Senior Supervisor If thereareroughseasandthecaptainfeelsthat I understandthatweonStatiaareverypleasedto In thepastasyouarereferringtoiswehave Let mestartbysayingthatifothercountrieshave Good afternoonChris, It fellondeafears: Chris Doyle For theseandmanymorereasonsithastobethe Therearemanyreasonswhyacaptainmaywishto A captainisinchargeofhisorherboat,andhe/she Compass . JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 up to 32up to 40up to 50 $345up to 60 $545 $745 up to 65 $985 to 75 up to 80 up $1,210 up to 100 $1,420 $1,860 $2,385 LOA in feet Monthly rate LOA in feet Monthly rate For more information about securing a summer berth at Port Louis Louis berth Port at a summer securing about information more For 7431 435 (473) on +1 Donelan Danny please contact Marina, [email protected] or email New Summer Rates* – 1 June to 30 November SummerNew Rates* *Prices valid for bookings for of one valid month or longer. *Prices INDIES
WEST ITALY | MALTA | TURKEY | | MALTA ITALY www.cnmarinas.com/plm Port Louis Marina is justifi ably known as one of the best appointed, one of the best appointed, as known ably justifi is Marina Louis Port location spectacular its With the Caribbean. in full-service marinas the perfect cruising base for it’s capital, to the island’s adjacent round. year all the Grenadines, Marina Louis a berth Port at rates, summer new our with Now, affordable. more even is to offer, has luxury and the marina the convenience all enjoy You’ll marina- security, 24-hour facilities, dockside exemplary including and chandleries services, Technical more. and broadband wide by. or close on-site either available, also are haul-out facilities beauty, natural stunning and atmosphere welcoming to its In addition the hurricane outside therefore and to 12°N close is Grenada the oat throughout afl safely remain can yachts means which belt, airport, international own its ts from benefi also The island summer. London. and York New to Miami, ights fl direct with & Nicholsons Camper by operated and owned is Marina Louis Port on hand staff knowledgeable are and friendly our and Marinas, you. welcome a day to hours 24 Port Louis Marina, Grenada – Grenada Marina, Louis Port affordable welcoming, beautiful, JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Bequia an’ together, seewhogo’beatwho.Class6next;onlytwoindatclass, Canouan inClassAan’ down WestCay,doahtriangleoffPagetFarman’finishderamp. waitin’ fo’dehour.Yesman,11o’clockreachan’timestartdem.StartLowerBay, beach waitin’fo’destart.Twenty-eightdouble-endersonsand,allsailsset, Carriacou an’ old agebutshewillbebacknextyear.DenClass7,debigboys.Wegot beatin’ alldeAClassboats. Worries ah goodpositionbecauseshedoesgodownwindliketrain.Ahstillgotmeeye on rollin’ sowego’see! me eyeon up toSempleCaybecausedetidedroppin’an’asahsay,windlight.Ahkeepin’ de rescueboatsoahgo’havegoodview. Bequia. DenClass1an’2,alldelittleones.Downwinddemgolookin’nice. I in Lightning out down toWestCayan’finishoffHamiltonPoint. finish butahwatchingdebigones,uptoHopeRock,dotriangleoffPagetFarm, ones first,littlelast.Degoin’straightdownWestCayan’upto de weather fo’youngducks,lighterdanyesterday,sunhotspite.Offdemgo, big which waydetablesturn. in front,sheevenbeatout Skyler Semple Cayan’downtoWestCay,now dey ondebeattofinishoffHamiltonPoint, still infront,wid Limbo Ace Confusion man loves,ahdoes. he heartan’outdeydoin’t’inglikenot’ing happen.ButIagreewidhim:whatah over definishline.Yo’ha’fo’gi’man credit. Heover80,hejustdoahsurgeryon B Class 5Aan’Bstartin’first.Wegot Bam! Dehorngo. De windnotovertenknotsan’dewatercalmsodeygo’haveahgoodsailtackin’ Dem veryclosearounddeHopeRockmarkan’ondrawtoAdamsmark, Sunday isherean’westartin’atFriendshipbeach.Deweatherclear,good De sungethotteran’debreezedroplighter an’poorUncleLaceyin . Ahtellyo’what,itgotaht’ingbetween Allickan’Leo.Demisoldrivalsbut Ace isdownsoAllickskipperin’ still infrontbeatin’ : deygoin’upwindtodefinishan’hestillinfront.SheBClassbutshe . An’debigboys,deyjammin’close,tackfo’tack,but de dayhascome.Yes,isSaturday23rdAprilan’weallonLowerBay leech an’rakin’backdemastahlittle,hopin’wego’getitrightdistime.Well, oy, ahtellyo’isweeksweplannin’,playin’widdejib,tekuplittleon wid an’ Worries Ace Confusion Bequia Pride Confusion, BequiaPride,Lightning,DoubleBluff from Carriacou.No SEE WHOGO’ : sheinfrontan’holdin’ownbutAndygotderecordfo’ Lightning, Confusion BEAT WHO! Worries Confusion closebehind:ahveryrace.Good.Tomorrowwego’see byOrbinOllivierre More Worries,Shamu dropbackahbittoday.Buttellyo’, Lightning finishahracewithoutrollin’!InClass6, Tornado gotdeleadonbigboysuptotopmark.Shein Iron Duke Limbo butnotbymuchwid whoisindeAClass an’ Tornado, NerissaJ1 distime;sheretiredhurtan’brokenfrom . Ahhopedemsettlin’itdistime. Double Bluff an’ Devine BEQUIA HEINEKENEASTERREGATTA2011
‘big boats’Class7 and Lightning, Skyler inClassB.Ahlettin’goall onshestern.Upwindto Confusion . IronDuke Double Bluff an’ an’ Nerissa J2 More Worries Braveheart Skyler in Iron Duke still aheadah Devine ondeyheels. Iron Duke Skyler jamout trollin’ Skyler from from beat from still
of DEDERER WILFRED PHOTOS: ALL
BequiaHeinekenEasterRegatta2011Winners 2) 1) Class 1 2) 1) Class 2 3) 3) 2) 1) Class 7 2) 1) Class 6 3) 2) 1) Class 5B 3) 2) 1) Class 5A 2) 1) Class 4 3) Sailing Club. fo’ fourdaysindehotsun,allburntup.Ahfeellikeah80an’onmelastlegtoo. ah goodtime.Wego’meetatdeprize-givin’.Buttalkin’disan’dat,beenouthere But ahtellyo’what,surehefeelin’lotbetteroutdeydanunderdetreewatchin’! got ahgoodleadondeothersagainan’UncleLaceyin other boatsheadin’towardsit.Whenshegetback,wego’demessage. get acallfromdefortinSt.Vincentsoshegonenorthawayfinishmarkan’ Pride small onesinClass2.Well,isahgoodt’ingitain’trough,justpuffin’offdeshore. me butwhenahgetondenorthshore,seeanotherrescueboatfo’two tow himintodeAdamsbeachan’go’keepmeeyeoutfo’nextone.Well,not bottom upan’Bonnieheadpopfromunderwater!Goodt’ingheclosetoshore!Ah in deshore.Asahturnfo’look,spotshean’whenlookback, in ahgoodposition.Ahain’tsee As ahcruisin’goin’downbydeairport,seemegoodfriendBonniein power boat:hego’handledat.Iwaitfo’denextone.Well,ahain’tlong. she whitebottomup.Goodt’ingclosetoshorean’ownerrightdeywidhe an’ downwind.As big boystackfo’ondewayup. some goodpuffahwindoffdeairportbecausecomin’outnortheast.Dem others goin’aroundtoWhaleCayan’back.T’ingsgo’beahlittletrickytoday,itgot sight. Demlittleonesdoin’ahdown-uprightindebay,twolapsan’finish.De eight yachtoutdeywidallcoloursailan’28double-endersonderun:ahpretty tin’ inLowerBayan’deyachtsgotahtrianglebaytoosoitlookgood.Thirty- down dehatch.Demgotonemoredayan’wrapitup.Tomorrowwillsettleeveryt’ing. on TV.Deonlydifferenceahhope,demashoredeypeaceful!Timefo’getsomegreenones Wisdom Knowledge Never D My Love Lady G Lightning Confusion Skyler Ace Iron Duke Devine Shamu More Worries Nerissa J1 Nerissa J2 Tornado Ark Royal Scope International Bennita G Boatbuilder, racerandfishermanOrbinOllivierreistheCommodoreofBequia We willbeinCanouanahfewweekstime,doin’itagain.Keeptouch! Well delasthorngo,wehadgoodweatherallthreeracesan’aht’inkeverybody Ah getaboarddecommitteeboatjustintimefo’watch In demeantime, Tomorrow willbeanotherday,an’soitisbutgotahlittlemorebreeze.Westar- When ahwatchashoreinLowerBay,itlooklikedemprotestdeMiddleEastyo’see , LeoJoseph,Carriacou (MountainTopSpringWaterTrophy) (TradewindsCruiseClubTrophy) (BankofSVGTrophy) (BequiaSailingClubTrophy) (RBTTBankTrophy) in third , VerrolCompton,Carriacou (BequiaExpressTrophy) (AdmiraltyTransportTrophy) , DelaceyLeslie,Bequia , EkronBunyan,Bequia , MickelJoseph,Bequia , AlfieOsborne,Bequia , ConradSimmons,Bequia , KingsleyStowe,Bequia , StanleyHarry,Bequia , EmmanuelBethel,Bequia , AllickDaniel,Bequia , DicksonBynoe,Canouan , WayneGooding,Bequia , RashivSimmons,Bequia , RyanMarks,Bequia , MatthewMcLaurean,Canouan , VernonLaidlow,Canouan , KimaniJames,Bequia . Dat good,wego’sharedespoils.Meanwhile, , DamianHarry,Canouan Lightning Confusion on EasterMonday Main photo:ThesmallestboatsstartingfromLowerBay Inset:CompetitionwascloseinClass5A getbyderamp,ahdon’tknowwhathappenbutsee uptodefinishlineinfirstplace, Tornado Confusion presents Class6trophyto Parliamentary RepresentativeDr.Friday to Class5Bwinner The BequiaExpressCompanytrophywent so ahaskBonniewey holdsheownagainarounddemark Devine Iron Duke Double Bluff Skyler More Worries probably on his last lap. probably onhislastlap. crossdeline. Tornado secondan’ Iron Duke look like she looklikeshe Nerissa an’ hepoint Nerissa J2 Worries Bequia Bequia crew was
JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 , , had had ), evocative in ), evocative in Good Expectation , a fine and sweet- Alexander Hamilton . Good Expectation Good Expectation Ticonderoga , hoots and hollers from every- New Moon Ocean Nomad , and ‘our’ Nomad Genesis, Ocean Nomad, New Moon, Nomad, New Moon, Genesis, Ocean The next day’s race was in two parts, with The next day’s race was in two parts, with It was the raft-up, though, that really drove I raced the first day with skippered again by Mike Moreland, and we skippered again by Mike last. This was, we had a hoot, though placing plan. With nobody may now reveal, our secret set our fishing line, behind us we were free to crack a few beers, hope for the vengeful broth- er of that 40-pound Mahi we’d caught to show up. How salty it would be to tack back into the harbor, sail onto our mooring under the eyes of the fleet while eating fresh-caught sashimi! Alas, he never showed. a half-time raft-up in a snug little bay near- by. I must confess I don’t remember much of the excitement of the day, except that there was plenty, and that I sailed with Todd Orrell on his sailing vessel (with a very shapely French crewmember aboard, perhaps explaining my memory loss?). home the appeal of the West Indies Regatta for all made the trip, as had all made the trip, a Nevis-built schooner. Judging by the many many schooner. Judging by the a Nevis-built a gander — young, locals turning out to have would seem the old, and in between — it as one could sloops made as pretty a picture (nestled there want, a boat-lover’s dream and the stately between our square-rigger Herreshoff ketch, motoryacht ways no multi-million-dollar sitting on a bol- could match. One old fellow sloops in his lard, who’d worked Carriacou him of the day time, said the sight reminded shacks, when when St. Barth’s was mostly to fetch dinner folk walked down to the water of driving to out of the hold of a sloop, instead smile to see it!” the grocery store. “Make me he said. enthusiastic crew throughout the Carriacou crew throughout the Carriacou enthusiastic fleet: Dream, Summer Cloud, Tradition, Pipe Sweetheart me. A more laid-back and convivial atmo- sphere between competitors one could not hope to find: children everywhere, swimming, repast, laughter, trading of yarns. So much
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY DAVE GOLDHILL . crew Ollie is TV actor Billy Campbell of “Once and Again” fame and crew Ollie is TV actor Billy Campbell of “Once and Again” Picton Castle The 32-footer was launched in June last year Part of the Caribbean’s local boatbuilding and racing renaissance, Part of the Caribbean’s local boatbuilding and racing renaissance, the newest Carricou sloop is aptly named Picton Castle And the party sprawled in every direction, across all the sloops of the Carriacou And the party sprawled in every direction, across all I’ll be back next year! Picton Castle fun being had, in fact, that the start of the second race was ‘delayed’ an hour and a fun being had, in fact, that the start of the second race half. Then a merry break-up, a terrific start for a really big rock (so close you one in every direction, a thrilling hairpin turn around and neck — on our blissful could count the baby crabs), and we were away — neck with a damned enjoyable last leg! As much fun as I’ve had sailing, maybe ever, terrific old films of St. Barth’s awards presentation afterward (we came second), some a barque-barbecue aboard in the 1950s and ’60s (before it became ‘paradise’), and the tales and forming friend- fleet, for hours afterward, knots of jolly sailors swapping single possible state of being, ships, a truly warm and joyous occasion. Perhaps the as the Carriacou sloops. aboard such companionable, such sweet and lively craft currently starring in cable network AMC’s new hit series “The Killing”. currently starring in cable network AMC’s new hit series
Good Expectation’s THE WEST INDIES REGATTA 2011 INDIES REGATTA THE WEST crew under First Mate Mike , but to the devotion of a good deal Picton Castle Genesis Good Good Good Good , nearing the end of her fifth circumnavigation , nearing the end of her fifth circumnavigation
Picton Castle
arrived a few days later, arrived a few days later, ), the waters greasy calm, ), the waters greasy calm, snugged into place, pro- , a bone in her teeth, gifted us GOOD EXPECTATIONS MET! EXPECTATIONS GOOD by Ollie Campbell Ollie by But the winds finally came, and We discovered, on arrival, what a gen- Picton Castle What followed was a bit of a slog. We What followed was a bit of a slog. We The regatta was conceived by Alexis Andrews, maritime photographer extraordi- The regatta was conceived by Alexis Andrews, maritime After a week of good fun at the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, the 180-foot- After a week of good fun at the Antigua Classic Yacht Ready to race. Carriacou sloops gathered along the quay at Gustavia, impressively backed by the barque Ready to race. Carriacou sloops gathered along the quay owner, Martin, couldn’t make it from the Classic to Saint Barth’s, but was willing to owner, Martin, couldn’t make it from the Classic to Saint let his sloop come for the races, six lucky erous vessel a Carriacou sloop can be, as, in close quarters, she allowed us to tack her up-harbor into Gustavia, neatly threading among the million-dollar yachts. She rounded up, sweet as a peach, a few boat-lengths to windward of the wharf, bit her anchor and backed down, stern-to, right next to a giant plas- tic stinkpot Beyoncé herself might’ve been proud to own, all without any means of propulsion save the wind on her well-used sails. The single present crew- member of the aforementioned yacht, having watched the whole operation from his railing, broke into applause as Expectation baking under the Caribbean sun, our little sloop a good deal more patient than we. Expectation a ripping good sail up to St. Barth’s, dur- ing which we caught, cooked and ate a 40-pound Mahi, the best-tasting fish of my life. Expectation lost our wind early on day one, spent lost our wind early on day one, spent two days drifting in lazy circles between Antigua and Montserrat (thoroughly tra- ditional, there is no engine in nouncing her behavior “Berry berry nii- ice!” He’d never moved for a fender. and the next morning, Day One of the regatta, disseminated the rest of her Moreland would make the delivery. naire, who, through the anthropological studies of his youth, had become enamored naire, who, through the anthropological studies of his of her sturdy, sweet-sailing of the West Indies, particularly of Carriacou, and thence of them eventually extended little workboats, the Carriacou Sloops. His appreciation not only to the building of his own sloop, long classic barque Anguilla and St. Maarten) and chockfull of sailing fanatics, made her way (via fun, this time at the West to St. Barthelemy for yet another dose of sailing Indies Regatta. racing traditions of the island of his energies toward reviving the boatbuilding and ways he’s going about this. he’d come to love. The West Indies Regatta is one of the naturally meant having as Reviving interest in the racing traditions of Carriacou and since many of her sloops as possible participate in the regatta, JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 choose theirpreferredsailconfiguration. es andopenclassesinwhichparticipantscould classifications werealsocreatedwithspinnakerclass- three butnotmorethanfourhourseachday.New so thatboatsofallsizescouldraceforapproximately year theregattateamworkedhardtocreatecourses Antigua SailingWeek,heldApril24ththrough29th.This tradewinds —upto25knotswerebackforthe44th The shoresideeventsandlogisticsrequiredtheener- Conspicuously absentpriortotheevent, ‘Well Done!’44thAnnualAntiguaSailingWeek REGATTA NEWS and thewinnersaretoonumeroustolisthere! two racesoneachofthefiveracedays,details petitors foritspreparationandexecutionofracing. Lammers receivedrapturousapplausefromthecom- standing racemanagementteamledbyKathy Alison Sly-AdamsandPaddyPrendergast.Theout- gy andhardworkofanarmyvolunteersledby Week 2011experienceonpage16. more informationvisitwww.sailingweek.com.
With some14high-poweredclassesallracingoneor Alexis Andrewsreports:The3rdAnnualWestIndies Reconnecting theIslandswithTraditionalSail See afirst-handreportofonecrewmember’sSailing For fullresultsvisithttp://result.vg/asw/xregatta. WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM / TIM WRIGHT TIM / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM light oftheevent. whose attendancewaswithoutquestionthehigh- to DanMoreland,thecaptainof place, waspresentedbyHarbourmasterErnestBrin Gustavia plaque,whichisusuallysetasideforfirst signed postersbyAragornDick-Read.ThePortde Carriacou Sloopscoffee-tablebooksandtwohuge by Jenny,posterartJeanPierreBalagny, pagne, alunchfortwoatLaPlage,paintedmugs Wegman, amagnumofLaurentPerriercham- Lazy Bonesbeanbag,sculptedartbyDavid Rhum toallvessels.Additionalprizeswereahuge Alexis AndrewsgivingoutprizesofContrebande Collectivité deSt.BarthwithLouLouMagrasand handicap numbers... entirely andnoneofthecaptainsknewtheirrating start boatonRaceTwomissedtakingourfinishtimes Antigua wasunabletoattendatthelastminute, given thecircumstances:ourraceofficerfrom winners? Well,thisbecametooambitioustoworkout, sloop Gustavia. LinehonorsweretakenbytheCarriacou boats aroundIledeBeouf,PainSucreandbackto were exhausted,thethirdracestarted,leading the boats.Aftersuppliesofpaté,wineandcoldbeer de Colombierwhereapicnicwasheldonboardall around IleFourchueandendedinaraft-upAnse in highwinds,offGustavia.Thecourseledthefleet loaded onschoonersinGustavia. by aSwedishfilmmadein1951showingcattlebeing Regatta byAlexisAndrews.Theeveningwasclosed was followedbyashortfilmofthe2010Carriacou graphs ofSt.Barth’sinthe1970sbyLoulouMagras Pitcairn Island!Thateveningaslideshowofphoto- including adescendantofFletcherChristianfrom Crews wereamixedbunchfromaroundtheworld Carriacou sloopsandaNevisschoonertakingpart. winds ofmorethan20knotsoffGustavia,witheight 180-foot sail-trainingbarque, evening, awelcomepartywasheldonboardthe all thesailorsonQuaid’Honneur.OnFriday Boulangerie bringingfreshcroissantsandbaguettesto Nevis, AnguillaandSt.Martin. 1st, withvesselsarrivingfromCarriacou,Antigua, took placeinSt.Barth’sfromApril29ththroughMay Regatta forCaribbean-builttraditionalsailingcraft A prizegivingceremonywasopenedbythe On theSunday,secondracewasstarted,again On theSaturdayfirstracewasheldinblustery The firstdaybeganwithEricfromtheChoisy Genesis . Weretheresecondandthirdplace —Continued onnextpage Picton Castle Picton Castle . , JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Cisa took Kalandia remains in Nanny Cay while repairs remains in Nanny , and Discovery 55 was second from Hampton, while Fred rounded out the top three from Tortola. Aurora, Thor VI The ARC Europe fleet set sail on May 18th for For more information For more information visit www.carib1500.com. For more information ARC Europe Underway fleet has sailed from the Caribbean A multinational Nanny Cay on Tortola, The main fleet started from fleet was in atten- All but one of the ARC Europe top honors in the competitive division, earning first place in the rally from Tortola and from Hampton. Lady of Lorien and the Azores. visit www.worldcruising.com/arceurope. made landfall in Bermuda and six opted to head opted to head and six in Bermuda made landfall Craig’s on the East Coast. David direct for ports Stevens 47, following her dismasting. are carried out the Atlantic ready to sail across and USA to Bermuda, sailors ARC Europe. Seventy-seven west to east with sailed to the flags of 12 countries on 19 yachts flying Azores archipelago Bermuda, and will cruise the Portugal. before heading for Lagos in 5th. The second fleet start- British Virgin Islands on May the next day. The two fleets ed from Hampton, Virginia Bermuda for some rendezvoused in St. George’s, for the 1,800-nautical social time and preparations on Faial in the Azores. mile Atlantic passage to Horta St. George’s Dinghy & dance on May 15th at the the Leg One prizegiving. Sports Club in Bermuda for Beneteau 57 . for making a racing start in Nanny ; second, Sam McKay, Hylas 54, Susie Q ; third, Charles Cunningham, Hylas 54, Madrugada In addition, a series of fun prizes were awarded, This is the first year that the Atlantic Cup has been This is the first year that the After four days of 15- to 20-knot headwinds, the fleet Of the yachts involved in the fun competition, the 25 for BVI-to-Bermuda Atlantic Cup 25 for BVI-to-Bermuda 1st from cruising rally set off May The Atlantic Cup Of the 25 yachts that started the Atlantic Cup, 18 Agua Dulce. including the “First Out (almost) Last In Prize” was awarded to Richard Graver and the crew of the Hanse 400 on the 850-nautical mile passage to St. George’s on the 850-nautical mile passage to Hampton, Virginia Bermuda before turning west The fleet was split and other US east coast ports. competition and those between yachts enjoying fun cruising in company. World Cruising Club, run under the umbrella of the trans-ocean sailing organizers of the world’s largest the Atlantic from Gran event, the ARC, which crosses Canaria to St. Lucia every fall. The Atlantic Cup was previously organized by Steve Black of the Cruising Rally Association. Steve sailed this Atlantic Cup in his Pacer 42, arrived in Bermuda and celebrated at an Awards Ceremony at the St. George’s Dinghy & Sports Club, May 8th. The unseasonal weather caused a one-day delay to the awards ceremony. overall awards went to: first, Steve Black, Pacer 42, Madrugada Brigadoon Tortola, British Virgin Islands in breezy conditions. The 25 Virgin Islands in breezy conditions. Tortola, British embarked in length from 38 to 70 feet, yachts, ranging Cay, but being almost last in to Bermuda.
ALEXIS ANDREWS New , which sailed up all the way from Carriacou. Continued from previous page from previous Continued For more information visit: www.westindiesregatta. See a first-hand report of one crewmember’s West A BIG thank you to Port de Gustavia, Club Unesco, to Port de Gustavia, Club A BIG thank you The organizers look forward to welcoming you all again in 2012. com, www.facebook.com/westindiesregatta or twit- ter.com/westindregatta. Indies Regatta 2011 experience on page 13. the vessels for their attendance — especially to Moon Aragorn’s Studio, all our sponsors and the people of all our sponsors and the Aragorn’s Studio, as well as their generosity and support St. Barth’s for — JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 Mount GaysneaksinatothermajorCaribbeanregattasaswell—theirredhatsays Gardens, twodayspriortotheofficialSaturdayWelcomePartyatEnglishHarbour. “Red Hat”Party,thisistheeventthatkicksoffweek,yearatReef sailboat going24knots. Sailing Week,whichranfromApril24ththrough29th,thevantagepointofa Spirit 37cat,Iaccepted.Whatfollowsisoneman’saccountofthe2011Antigua nal 64-footMorellicatamaran,fortheweek.Soloagainaboard has hurricanesfollowinghim;readhisHurricaneBookfordetails!) Randy WestonthefirstdayIarrived.(Yes,thatfromSt.Barth’s,onewho wind onthelastleg).Thirdwasrunningintolegendarycatamaranskipper,D. Antigua inmid-April.Second,theweathercooperatedeverylegofway(withno for theeight-day“delivery”fromBVItoAnguillaSt.MartinBarth’s ways thanone.First,Iwasluckyenoughtoenjoythecompanyoftwoyounglasses Antigua SailingWeek,myfourthorfifth(theywerethatgood!)since1980,inmore at24Knots While SailingWeekofficialsarecarefulnottopromoteormentiontheMountGay Randy invitedmetocrewaboard I Joining theFatCats two andwritingmyribaldCaribbeanmemoirs(dueoutinlate2011). dream” —sailingacatamaranallaroundtheCaribbeandoingcharteror always worksoutwithCaptainMark.”Heck,I’msoluckythat“livingthe consider myselfprettylucky.Infact,onmyboatwehaveasaying:“Everything My luckrecentlycontinued,andqualifiesasanofficialmemoir,atthe2011 byMarkDenebeim Fat Cat , an80-footmodifiedmonsteroforigi- ANTIGUA SAILINGWEEK2011 Sanctuary , myIsland an impressivesight,though red racer,burnedatthedockonDayTwo(faultyelectrical?)andGuncatswere slippery polecompetitionandawetT-shirtcontestforLayDay. Antigua YachtClubinCobb’sCross,FalmouthHarbor.Organizersbroughtbackthe Harbour, aprettyspotwithhistoricarchitectureandbustlingdockyard,oratthe tripped allovereachother! while tryingtowalk.TheentirecrewoftheGirlsForSailraceteamgotonstageand free MountGaydrinksfrom2000to2200hours.Threedifferentguysfellintome The band,onabigstage,wasthumping,andthewell-staffedbarofferedunlimited “St. MaartenRegatta”not“Heineken”forexample.Thepartywasoff-the-chartsfun. —Continuedonnextpage skipper Amanda Below: Awinningcombination— Left: Fatcity.TheauthorluckedintoadreamcrewslotforAntiguaWeek The officialfestivitiesoccurredprimarilyattheEvent“Beer”TentinEnglish Fat Cat Fat Cat’s wonMultihullClass2. firstmateSarah,formerskipperTomand Titan , thehigh-tech JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17
Fat Cat throughout the Caribbean. For more information visit www.ocean- throughout the Caribbean. For more information visit . Sanctuary After a few minutes organizing the backup halyard, we resumed our “Victory Lap”, After a few minutes organizing the backup halyard, we on stage (twice) and had The best party was the Awards Party, since we appeared snorkeling and writ- I spent the next week in Guadeloupe and Les Saintes relaxing, articles and his memoirs Captain Mark Denebeim offers charters and is writing in this month’s Regatta See additional information on Antigua Sailing Week 2011 when all of sudden, BAM, down went the main again, this time the result of the when all of sudden, BAM, down went the main again, was completed with jib alone, headboard pulling out. The last hour or so of the race nonetheless maintaining a steady eight knots upwind. since English Harbour Rum our pictures taken (they took the red hat off my head, at Abracadabra finished was the rum sponsor!). Multiple adult beverages and dinner pink and green off the week in style with Tom, John and Randy sporting “race (s)attire”. for a week. It is clear that, ing, and then anchored in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica you agree? all in all, my luck is holding out pretty well, wouldn’t aboard breezetours.com News, pages 14 and 15. decreased slightly, blowing a steady 22 to 25 knots, while we purposely overstoodto 25 knots, while we purposely blowing a steady 22 decreased slightly, driver was umbrella. The first celebrity raised the large stern deck marks and even grinning from of Sailing Weeks, who was personality with a long record Bongo, a local halyard chafed That’s when the main cruising along at 17 knots. ear to ear while salon roof. crashing down onto the sheave and the mainsail came through at the We were back in Falmouth Harbor more than an hour and a half We were back in Falmouth before any other boat Fat , which Sanctuary ran over the port quarter of one Fat Cat , at the windward mark going 14 knots. again kicked ass, achieving a top speed of 23 Fat Cat See You Later , owned by John of Jupiter, Florida, we zipped around the of Jupiter, Florida, we zipped , owned by John Fat Cat has a huge fully battened main sail, a smallish self-tending jib and a large has a huge fully battened won the ensuing protest but received a DSQ for violating the First Commandment won the ensuing protest but received a DSQ for violating Continued from previous page Continued from Fat Cat Amanda and Tom fixed the culprits the next morning and Bongo and I engineered aAmanda and Tom fixed the culprits the next morning and The last two races covered two days from Falmouth to Jolly Harbour and back. The The last two races covered two days from Falmouth to I missed the third day of racing since I had a day charter aboard I missed the third day of racing Race Two was a wild and near-perfect ride. The wind was in the mid-20’s all day. ride. The wind was in the mid-20’s all day. Race Two was a wild and near-perfect And what a crew: with Randy calling the shots and doing some driving, Amanda, calling the shots and doing some driving, Amanda, And what a crew: with Randy But the real story of the week was the wind. It was howling! After very little wind It was howling! After story of the week was the wind. But the real It is also worth noting that the number of participating yachts was down signifi- of participating yachts was noting that the number It is also worth course averaging ten knots and won our class by almost 20 minutes corrected. course averaging ten knots The screecher bridle took most of the hit, stretching almost two feet in length. The screecher bridle took most of the hit, stretching by dinghy to the start linemad transportation scramble from English Harbour, arriving First place was in the bag soof the sixth and final race with but four minutes to spare. a turn driving. The wind hadit was “Celebrity Helmsman Day” with each of us taking outward 22-mile course featured 25 to 30 knots of wind with top true speed of 33 outward 22-mile course featured 25 to 30 knots of wind may ask? Because we were knots and an apparent of 44. How did we get to 44 you The most amazing part of this cruising along at 22 knots, hitting 24 several times! screecher. That’s when we story is that we flew just the full main and jib — no on the starboard side. noticed that the jib track was separating from the pedestal at the nuts and cracked off Turns out a couple of the long stainless bolts had rusted plywood. and almost all the others were loose due to rotting deck of the German teams, called Cat — thou shall not collide. knots. The day included some controversy as We blasted through the start and finished the 24-mile upwind downwind triangle and finished the 24-mile upwind downwind triangle We blasted through the start corrected. We were back in Falmouth Harbor more than ahead by over 45 minutes any other boat from any other class joined us. Average an hour and a half before we We call this a “Mega Horizon Job”. That’s when speed was 14 knots, at least. it base was separating from the deck, though noticed the jib traveler pedestal ourselves. appeared cosmetic, we told the 22-year-old blonde skipper and Sarah, her 26-year-old brunette mate — both and Sarah, her 26-year-old brunette mate — both the 22-year-old blonde skipper boat and sailing knowledge as well as keen looks — man- possessing vast amounts of boat, opening the wine and making us feel welcome. aging the crew, prepping the former skipper and builder of all the boat’s modifications Tony, Bongo and Tom, the the winches, while I helped on the foredeck and located since new in 1992, manned vision. John drove upwind, Amanda downwind. marks with my extrasensory sail. Why? Because the wind increased to over 25 knots lasted but an hour under tour and some snorkeling and the seas were an easy eight feet. An English Harbour filled the rest of our day, while for the Antigua Classic Regatta two weeks prior, it showed up for Race One flirting prior, it showed up for Classic Regatta two weeks for the Antigua On with 15 knots. lead to a central winch station via internal tunnels. screecher. All sheets and lines seven to effectively race her. She requires a crew of only cantly from last year: just 95 or so, when this event usually draws 200. The Bequia this event usually draws year: just 95 or so, when cantly from last has it that the competitors and rumor apparently drew away some Easter Regatta so many own- for the professional crews, required work permits Antigua government the least, the St. the recessionary times: at Most likely just a sign of ers opted out. down 30 percent as well. Regatta in March was Maarten Heineken — JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 at theCastarawaterfall Wesley andKirkabouttojump CLEAN, GREENAND SERENE TOBAGO
DESTINATIONS the Bocaandby6:00 Chaguaramas. Ourdolphinescortsawussafelyinto as wenavigatedthroughthecommercialboattrafficof at mypositiononthebow,lookingoutforunlitships The sleek,darkshapesofdolphinskeptmecompany by ElizabethBrouse boats goingbackandforthtotheBuccooReef. active groupofjetskisandacoupleglass-bottom could do.Theonlyswellsbotheringuswerefromthe but wedidhearmanytalesofwhatnortherlyswells was quitecomfortableduringtheweekwespentthere ing motionoftheboatagain.TheStoreBayanchorage at theTTSA,ittookadaytoadjustslightrock- shore. AftertheflatseasofouranchorageinTrinidad island, asTobagohasnodefinedleewardorwindward dark hillsofTrinidadonthehorizon. ting anchorintimetoenjoyabeautifulsunsetwiththe and motor-sailedonaclosereachintoStoreBay,set- About 12milesfromTobagowelefttherainbehindus many timestocompensateforourwestwarddrift. rent runninginthisareaandhadtoadjustourcourse Tobago. Wehadlearnedofthestrongwest-settingcur- then turnednorthtotraveltheremaining24miles continued eastalongtheshoreasfarGrandRiviere Kirk uptoweatherthestorms. was agoodtimetogobackbed,leavingCaptain coast. Asthesunrose,squallshitandIfiguredit waters andturningtofollowTrinidad’sruggednorth mooring linesat4:00 ing ofthetidesandcurrents,KirkIslippedour other sailorsdebatingthebestroutetotakeandtim- strike additionalitemsoffthelist). tation morethanoncetostay“justafewdays” Trinidad’s rathermagneticpull(havinggivenintotemp- passage toTobago,managingfinallybreakawayfrom October 14th,2010wesetsailforthe90-nauticalmile and gettingtoknowthemanyfacetsofTrinidad.On working onboatprojects,enjoyingtimewithfriends, months agoandspentlasthurricaneseasoninTrinidad, twins, WesleyandClaire.WesailedfromToronto21 rigged ketch,withmyhusband,Kirk,and12-year-old —Continuedonnextpage patronize oneofthebars,restaurantsorgiftshops). beach withanentryfee(waivedifyouaregoingto north endofthebayisPigeonPointHeritageParkand airport bringsyoutotherotianddoublesstands.At showers. Ashortwalkthroughtheparktowards tree providesshadefromthesunandshelter cream andcoldbeer.Ahugeumbrella-shapedalmond dors sellinglocalfood,souvenirs,homemadesoursopice port) isalovely,cleanpublicbeachandparkwithven- swim toshore.Atthesouthendofbay(nearair- haul uponthebeachandlocktoatree,oranchor posh resorts.Thereisnodinghydock,sobepreparedto white sandybeacheslinedwithpalmtreesandafew Bay, atthesouthendofisland,featuresspectacular to showusaroundoneoftheirfavouriteislands.Store Tobago homeforafewmonthsyearandwerewaiting I liveonboard Our dearfriendsJanandDavidonboard Swells tendtocurvearoundintothebaysofthis By mid-morningthesquallswerelesseningaswe After seeminglyendlessconversationswithmany Discovery V AM AM wewerethroughtheswirling withthekidssoundasleep. , a Bowman 57-foot cutter- , aBowman57-footcutter- Mistral call call JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19
AM for a small fee, to view her art and visit with to view her art and visit for a small fee, PM After a week in Store Bay we pulled up anchor and A unique place for lunch on the beach in Castara is sailed to the charming little fishing village of Castara. sailed to the charming little fishing village of Castara. Tobago’s slogan, “Clean, Green and Serene” is exempli- fied here as you watch the fishermen leisurely mending their nets on the long sandy beach dotted with colour- fully painted buildings. Castara must be home to some talented artists as even the shop signs are works of art. A short walk across the playing field leads to an easy flat trail to the local waterfall which features a nice deep pool perfect for the more adventurous to jump into from the rocks half way up the falls. “Chinies Restaurant” with its second floor deck provid- ing an unrivaled view of the bay. The name of the res- taurant is not a spelling mistake as the owner/chef’s name is in fact Chinie and he does specialize in Chinese food (and obviously has a good sense of humour)! We dined on the best freshly made fried wontons and spring rolls to ever cross our lips and kept Chinie busy ordering one platter after another. A group at the table next to ours was enjoying an afternoon drink and intro- duced us to the Trinidadian-made fruit wine called “Vermoute” served with ice and a splash of Guinness, a perfect complement to the wontons. —Continued on next page her. Luise is also a dog lover and often takes in strays. a dog lover and often takes her. Luise is also at the time of or so dogs living with her The half dozen my kids and in the attention from our visit basked fresh herbs on our way with okra and Luise sent us from her garden. to 2:00 comes people into her home on Sundays from 10:00 into her home on Sundays comes people and didn’t PM at anchor Discovery V There are many fine snorkeling and dive sites in Tobago. A 20-minute taxi ride up into the hills towards the Fishermen mending nets at Castara, Fishermen mending with Left: No neon here yet lage of Buccoo where the festivities take place along a where the festivities take lage of Buccoo lined with a about a half-mile long, stretch of road fabulous bars and restaurants. The handful of (everything drum band began to play 20-member steel to Mozart) around 9:00 from Rihanna bling. More people filtered onto the street as the night bling. More people filtered onto the street as the night progressed and by midnight several hundred were in attendance. The DJ kicked in when the pan band fin- ished and the dancing continued. Shortly after mid- night, a truckload of Tobago’s finest soldiers showed up to check out the crowd and make sure all was peaceful — and it was. Jan and David took us to their favourite snorkeling spot on the Buccoo Reef and were distressed at the bleaching of the coral which had occurred in the few short months since they had been there last. The coral was white and fish scarce. Later Jan showed us their underwater photos of that same spot taken in June and the change was star- tling. We heard pollution and a rise in water temperature might be to blame but no one seemed to have a clear explanation. Charlotteville proved to have some of the best snorkeling we experienced in Tobago. Mount Irvine Hotel will bring you to the Kimme Sculpture Museum (luisekimme.com). Luise Kimme carves and paints beautiful, larger-than-life-sized people and creatures from tree trunks and large pieces of wood. Her carvings are beautiful and it feels as if you are mingling with a crowd of majestic beings. She wel- stop until almost midnight. There were stalls and tents midnight. There were stalls stop until almost for gam- food and artwork, and some set up selling Continued from previous page Continued from At Bago’s beach bar, located on the smaller beach at The delicious aroma of the soup at the table beside us The morning after arrival we were off to the big city of arrival we were off to the The morning after Store Bay (laundry/internet café next door) we met an Store Bay (laundry/internet café next door) we met an interesting assortment of friendly locals and within a few days had gathered a larger group to join us for “Sunday School”, which lived up to its reputation as a great party. We took route taxis up into the small vil- stirred our appetites and soon we were lunching on “cow heel” soup from the adjacent snackette. This flavorful soup is considered “man food” and we had lots of fun with the men in the bar discussing the merits of the soup and the qualities it is rumored to imbue. Perhaps what they said was true as two ladies at the table behind me were unabashedly making eyes at my husband. One even bra- zenly asked if I could move my chair a bit as I was obstruct- ing her view! Seeing that we shared impeccable taste in men, Hilda, Hattie and I made plans to meet up that Sunday night at “Sunday School” (a local jump-up with steel band music) for some dancing and limin’ as I made a mental note not to leave my husband unattended! a bar selling three beers for TT$25 (about US$4). Given Kirk’s hydration philosophy, we managed to go through several rounds (it was 5 o’clock somewhere) while Claire and Wesley happily shopped for the latest pirated mov- ies for TT$10 apiece from a stand down the street. Scarborough, on the other side of the island, to checkon the other side of the island, Scarborough, has a and Immigration. Scarborough in with Customs selling vibe with many street vendors fun marketplace David came sweets to ladies’ lingerie. everything from taxis (cars us how to identify the route along to show to get to or honk as they approach) will flash lights TT$6 or less,and points in-between (for Scarborough checking in.and give us a hand with about US$1) from Immigration wasAlmost directly across the street — JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 little icecreamandslushystand“givesthemsome- past 40yearsandTobagowheretheygrewup).Their Toronto wheretheyraisedtheirkidsandlivedforthe Glenda (whosplittheirtimebetweenhomein where weenjoyedmeetingtheowners,Cliveand nightly slushyoricecreamatastandalongthebeach finesse andflavour.Justnorthofthedockwehadour give thestandardchickenorfishmealagreatboostof third-floor balconylookingoverthetownwherethey lovely dinneratSharon&Phoebe’sRestaurantonthe eat inCharlottevilleandourbestmealbyfarwasa bordering theplayingfield.Thereareseveralplacesto library acrossthestreetfromCustomsandImmigration, towards thefishmarket.Thereisanewandmodern and fruitcanbehadfromthevanjustdownstreet office, butthebestdealandvarietyoffreshvegetables priced freshmarketnearthedock,besidetourism souvenirs, rumandfood.Thereisasmallover- fishing fleet.Woodenshacksliningthemainstreetsell dinghy (sternanchorrecommended)andanactive in thearea. the northendofbay,joininghalfdozenboats say “Didyouseethat?”Weanchoredoffthebeachat ing downtocomealongsideandpeerupatusasif unison outofthewavesacrossourbowandthenslow- friendly podofdolphinsentertainedus,jumpingin anchorage ofManO’WarBayatCharlotteville.A north endoftheislandandrelativelysheltered — Charlotteville doeshaveadocktowhichtieyour A fewdayslaterwehadaveryboisteroussailtothe Continued frompreviouspage had beenscarce.Backonthemainland,wetooksol- guide, whoinformedusthatinrecentyearsthebirds disappointment withthelackofactualbirdstoour with theirdramaticlongwhitetails.Weexpressedour beautiful andwedidspottheRedBilledTropicBirds spotted perhapsfourbirdsintotal!Thescenerywas (it seemedmostlyup)thisruggedlittleislandand round tripplusagenialguide).Wehikedupanddown fair pricewassoonnegotiated(TT$80totakesixofus birdwatching onthisuninhabitednaturesanctuary).A Little TobagoIsland(wehadreadofthewonderful just afewminutestofindsomeonetakeusover side oftheislandtovisitvillageSpeyside.Ittook this time)totravelthe20minutesorsoother enjoy thesnorkelingandthenhitbeach. and thebeachwecouldswimoverfrom anchored sotherockwaspositionedbetweenourboat anchor onthenorthsideofManO’WarBay.We from thewaterofflargerbeachwhereboats best inmyopinionwasaroundtherockprotruding snorkeled inthewatersbelowFortCambleton,but waterfall) andsomegoodareasforsnorkeling.We with manysmalldesertedbeaches(atleastonea boats belowismarvelous.ManO’WarBaylined picnic table.TheviewofCharlottevilleandthefishing colourful floweringplants,withtwocannonsanda to FortCambleton,asmallgrassyknollborderedby the wintermonths. thing todo”saysClive,whentheycomedownspend We tookadaytrip,boardingthelocalbus(abigone A pleasanthikethroughtownanduphillbringsyou Discovery , Below: EnjoyingournightlyslushiesatCharlottesville Left: WehaddeliciousrotiatasnacketteinSpeyside Above: Wesley,TonyandDavidatBago’s,StoreBay Speyside Inn. and friendlyconversationwithsomenicefolksatthe school beforewalkinguptheroadtohavecoldbeer ace indeliciousrotiatthesnacketteacrossfrom boat projectsandhaveavacation! proved tobeanidealplacetakeabreakfromthe weeks enjoyingClean,GreenandSereneTobagoasit Windwards. Wecouldhaveeasilyspentacouplemore be-named HurricaneTomasboredownonthe fully cuttingourvisittoTobagoshortasthesoon-to- On October29thwehightailedittoGrenada,regret- JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 10 11 12 2002 13 2100 14 2158 15 2255 16 2350 17 0000 (full) 18 0041 19 0129 20 0214 21 0256 22 0338 23 0419 24 0501 25 0545 26 0630 27 0719 (new) 28 0810 29 0903 30 0958 31 1241 1053 1148 21 22 23 0420 24 0501 25 0543 26 0624 27 0706 28 0751 29 0838 30 0928 1021 July 1116 DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 1211 5 1305 6 1358 7 1450 8 1540 9 1630 1720 1812 1906 JUNE & JULY 2011 OF THE MOON MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire June DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 1137 5 1230 (new) 6 1325 7 1419 8 1511 9 1603 10 1653 11 1742 12 1832 1923 13 2016 14 2112 15 2210 16 2310 17 0000 (full) 18 0010 19 0117 20 0200 0250 0336 make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. charts. Fair tides!
AM . PM
May issue about May issue about DESTINATIONS Caribbean Compass’s
in Suriname?
for five years and also have a home in Suriname. You will find lots of infor- nd now for something completely different: why not visit Suriname — or why not visit Suriname completely different: nd now for something hurricane season there? even spend the
Elaborating on the ‘Info & Updates’ item in the ‘Info & Updates’ item Elaborating on A Detailed pilotage information on Suriname is available Petra and Jan Willem Versol have been cruising the Caribbean on the 40-foot ketch Before you leave, stock up in one of the huge and well-stocked supermarkets in If you stay over during the hurricane season, try to arrive before the first of July: Once in Suriname, you’ll want to make a trip into the impressive jungle to enjoy Suriname gained its independence in 1975 and you will find many reminders of Officials are easy on you and you are not required to start the Immigration proce- Officials are easy on you and you are not required to In Domburg moorings are available at low cost, but you can also drop your anchor In Domburg moorings are available at low cost, but you Entering the Suriname River is a piece of cake as the entrance and the whole river Entering the Suriname River is a piece of cake as the Suriname’s popularity among yachtsmen is growing, perhaps because it is one of yachtsmen is growing, perhaps because it is one Suriname’s popularity among Suriname is located well outside the hurricane belt, at a distance of approximately belt, at a distance of well outside the hurricane Suriname is located Why Summer Not Arriving aboard a pirogue at Galibi on the Marowijne River, Arriving aboard a pirogue at Galibi on the Marowijne River, near the border of French Guiana onwards and the last bus to Domburg leaves Paramaribo around 5:00 onwards and the last bus to Domburg leaves Paramaribo by Petra and Jan Willem Versol by Petra and Jan at www.cruiserlog.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suriname. Witte Raaf mation on their website, www.witteraaf.info, or contact them at pjwversol@hotmail. com; they are happy to be of assistance. Paramaribo. But chances are that you fell in love with Suriname and you never want to leave! Emancipation Day should not be missed! Bring your camera, as people are dressing up for the celebration and proud to show themselves. the abundance of nature and the overwhelming hospitality and spontaneity of the people living in picturesque villages. Although tours with the bigger tour operators can be quite expensive and force you to travel in a group, you can do and see the same things on a budget and on a more private level. Touring the country is not restricted to road trips; you can do it in your own yacht. The Commewijne River is navigable for a long stretch and if you go up on the Cottica River, you can drop your anchor in the middle of a jungle near one of the many lovely marron settlements. Be polite and you will be guest of honour in their villages. Holland, but the country is also very much itself as a reflection of its inhabitants. The indigenous people are Carib Amerindians and they still populate the large inte- rior, together with “marrons”, who are descendants of slaves who fought themselves to freedom in the 18th and 19th centuries. After the abolition of slavery, contract labourers were invited — Chinese, Indians and Indonesians from Java — so the cur- rent population is an interesting mix of cultures. They all have their own (religious) holidays, which are shared among the different ethnic groups. Overall, 20 languages are spoken in Suriname, but almost everyone speaks English. dures immediately upon arrival. They understand that you need time to clean up dures immediately upon arrival. They understand that US$40 per person) and your boat before heading into town to obtain a visa (around other costs are involved here visit Immigration with three copies of your crew list. No and you are allowed to stay for three months. Clearing with Customs is not neces- sary; they are not interested in yachts. Your crew list, stamped by Immigration, will serve as outward-bound clearance. in six to eight metres. On the waterfront you’ll find several supermarkets, an ATM, in six to eight metres. On the waterfront you’ll find several and Irene, who not only sells internet, pubs, little restaurants, a vegetable market — run to town from 6:00 fruits but also takes care of your laundry. Local buses up to Domburg is very well buoyed. And even better, all buoys are lit. The estuary up to Domburg is very well buoyed. And even better, show alarming figures seems rather shallow and your depth sounder will sometimes freighters also go in and out as it picks up floating mud, but don’t worry: big bauxite outer marker at low water and without running aground. Start your approach at the up to Domburg, where most you can navigate upriver on one tide past Paramaribo upriver from Paramaribo, but of the yachts are moored. Domburg is only eight miles a much safer place to anchor as there is less current. the safest countries in South America AND something completely different: friendly America AND something completely different: friendly the safest countries in South The people combined with impressive flora and wildlife. and extremely hospitable a but almost everyone speaks English; Suriname, official language is Dutch, much part of the Caribbean. Visas are needed for most CARICOM member, is very Dutch, but easily obtained once you are there. The cur- nationalities, including the (SRD) and ATMs are all around. rency is the Surinamese dollar 500 miles from Trinidad & Tobago. The trip directly from T&T will take four to six Tobago. The trip directly from T&T will take four to 500 miles from Trinidad & current (which runs against you) and luck. If you start days, depending on wind, a better angle to the wind. from Barbados you will get Guyana, why not hop onward to Suriname? Guyana and Suriname share the Guyana and Suriname not hop onward to Suriname? Guyana, why (6°N, 56°59’W), you’ll find Nieuw-Nickerie at the entrance of which Nickerie River, an overnight And from there it is only western capital” of Suriname. also called “the Paramaribo (5°50’N, 55°10’W). trip to the capital, JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 Jewel andPigeonCays,offUtila’swestend.Theylieclosetogetherarelinkedby a helicopter. In thelastlighthetookoffhisshirtandtwirleditoverheadinfashionof ing. Whilebailing,thewindblastedhimsofarouttoseahecouldnotswimback. of ourboatssavedalocalpastor’slife.” want tokayakthe than theonewehave,whichmightaswellbeakindergartener’scrayondoodle.We Sky Diving,then?OrJackDaniel’sVacationBibleSchool?” best sourceforinformationabouttheUtilaCaysisCaptainMorgan’sDiveShop.” whole daydrinkingFlordeCañarum. instinct foradventureequaltoorgreaterthanthatofasandfly. else couldtherepossiblybetodo? When wetellpeoplethistheyblinkasifwe’vepeedintheircoffee.No… Bay Islands.YllithiaandIarecertifieddiversbuthavedecidedwedon’tfeellikeit.
● ● ● ● ● ● TYRREL BAYYACHTHAULOUT Every curioshopvendspostcards,andamongtheseisalwaysanaerialshotof I walkoutwishingI’dheardthepastor’snextsermon.Adazzler,tobesure. “And ourskippergotthere Pastor wasfishingoffthecayswhenhismotordiedandboatstartedsink- “Watch out,”Jamiesays,“thewindkicksupintheafternoon.Theotherdayone Inside, IinformabubblyexpatnamedJamiethatwe’relookingformapbetter “That’ll do,”Yllithiasays. “That seemanoddjuxtapositiontoyou?”IaskYllithia.“No?HowaboutJimBeam Now we’restrollingintotown,becauseaccordingtotheHondurasTipBook,“The Snorkeling, bicycling,hiking,kayaking—we’vedoneallthis.Alsowespenta Plenty, Iwanttosay,solongasyoucanseepastyourownnoseandhavean That’s howtouristsintroducethemselvesonUtila,thirdlargestoftheHonduras “Where’d youdivetoday?”
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CARRIACOU scuba? What —Continuedonnextpage has beenawayalongtime.Where?Iask.Thefishermanshrugshisshoulders. ask. Theboy’sfatherwasmurderedbyagangonthemainland,andgirls’ on abouthowjealousIwasoftheircandle-liteveningsspentunderthestars. here. Sí,shesaid,andIletoutalongwhistlesmiledlikehorse,yammering nothing butblanketsondirt. pers. “Underthatboat.” invites metostrollwithhim.“Martalivesherethosefourchildren,”hewhis- “Barbie”. Yllithiaunderstands doesn’t speakSpanish.Thechildrenareashorenow,andthegirlspointingsaying as MartaandtriestoflatterYllithiabygoingonaboutherbeauty,but Mayan bloodsprinkledatopthecocktaillikebitters. They appearwild—almostferal.Halfsharkandhalfpanther,withafewdropsof to failedambitions. of talltreesandgreengrass.Alsobytheabandonedconcretefoundation,monument tery. Aquietparadisiacalpancakeofacayoiswhatwewant. rattle uswhenweseetheminthefleshatlast.It’stooearlymorningformys- densely packedaccommodationsofathousandpeople. a thickconcretefootbridge.Onthesefewacresliefivechurches,oneschool,andthe The fishermanwhispersthatthechildrenlackbasicstaples.Istherenoman?I Now Corrugated metalproppedagainstthesideaddsafewsquarefeetofshelter.Inside An oldfishermancomeswanderingtowardthebeachfromamongtreesand A youngwomanloungesintheshadewithatoddleronherlap.Sheintroducesherself Kayak noseskidsuponbeach.Threechildrenpaddletowardusfromfartherout. Fortunately DiamondCayinterceptsus,firstinthechain.I’mpleasedbysight The postcarddoesn’ttrytosellthesecayosasparadisesomuchamystery.They B &CFUELSENTERPRISE Easily approachedfromCarriacou, UnionI.,PalmI.&PSV Tel/Fax: (473)443-9110email: [email protected] my FUEL •OILWATERICE face makeslikeatomato.FlashbackstowhenIaskedMartaifshelived Yllithia, abouttomakesand-angelsonaparadisiacalpancakeofcayo Contact: GlennClementorReynold Belmar The bestfueldockintheGrenadinesfor: Cheapest pricesintheGrenadines Unobstructed dockincalmwater Suitable forLargePowerYachts 16-18 feetofwateralongside Petite Martinique that , allright,andprovesitwithatomato-facedblush. JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23
N A E . I couldn’t B
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ull www.AdventureHighSchool.org Phone: (800) 927-9503 www.AdventureHighSchool.org Phone: (800) 927-9503 FFF && C • Full High School Grades 9,10,11 & 12 • University and College Prep • Individualized Student Programs so that faster students are not held back while students that need more attention are not left behind • Individual and group tutoring • Special guided education programs for boat owners, cruisers, travelers, or anyone doing home schooling with limited access to educational guidance and materials. • Full four year programs, single year programs, one month booster or tutoring programs. Individual tailored programs as needed Mateo invites me on a hike across the island. It should take about 30 seconds, by Mateo invites me on a hike across the island. It should One end of the island pours itself out into a sandbar. Over this, two opposing currentsa sandbar. Over this, two opposing island pours itself out into One end of the themselves on near two geezers sunning groceries. We paddle Time to get those ask. on these islands?” I “Is there a mercado “but it’s closed.” “Sure,” one of them answers, we paddle back to Diamond Cay. The whole Still in no mood for mystery, digging their fingers into a tub of peanut butter, Marta and the girls take turns how he itches to spread the word! But why not preach Mateo is disappointed — oh reads a few versus about Jesus weeping over Lazarus. Mateo opens the bible and whimpering like kicked dogs, Mateo comes back to earthOur ears ringing, the children Jesus is cruci-five por all.” “It goot to be cristian becau a pile of them looking likePresently Yllithia gives the children a coconut. I found on his person and begins Mateo pulls a foot-long butcher’s knife from somewhere my calculations, so I agree. He wants to make me a present of his my calculations, so I agree. He wants to make me a present me his bed. have heard that right. But yes, I did, he wants to give —Continued on page 44 I’d much prefer Water Cay carpeted with colorful leaves to bald dirt and rake marks colorful leaves to bald dirt Water Cay carpeted with I’d much prefer to forget about me on the shoulder and says — when he slaps — a.k.a. maintenance it this time. applauding the rare phenomenon of Nature clap. We go there to enjoy splash up and loom like ethereal thunderheads. Marta and her brood itself, but overhead corpses draped hundreds of skinned fish Cay. Around them lay a flank of Jewel over ropes. the fisherman has been replaced by Marta’s younger herd awaits us, although brother Mateo. on at her heart again. Meanwhile Mateo goes on and which causes Yllithia to clutch if I with great imagination be called English. He asks in what can only loosely and a Luterano. A lengthy discussion ensues as to whether am Cristiano and I say Sí, the the end I tell them it’s like being a Catholic minus Lutheran is a Christian. In saints and five-hour services. that He excuses himself and returns with a bible a bit anyway for good measure? which reminds me of something my old karate sensei looks chewed upon by rats, belt the better — it shows you practice. used to say: The uglier your (perhaps divine) Mateo assumes a conquistador pose Suddenly seized by inspiration and screams “ bible for me in case Lutherans have missed the point: and decides to summarize the Mateo rebukes me. Coconutsmanna rained down straight from heaven, I explain. But is a crime. I’m not exactly trem- are worth five lemps each and therefore coconut picking to open the coconut. bling at the prospect of litigation, however, and urge someone magic trick. The kids take crunching out a little hole. I consider this a most alarming the toddler gets soaked. turns sucking out the sweet water. Everyone laughs when At Diamond Cay, three children paddle toward us… S A
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WELCOME TO WATER CAY NO SPEARFISHING NO COCONUTPICKING NO LITTERING MAINTENANCE FEE LPS 50 P/P THANK YOU guy makes a killing. Burn This is a fantastic racket, I think. Legitimate or not, this We beach the kayak and walk about 12 steps, in opposite directions, when I lookWe beach the kayak and walk about 12 steps, in opposite Water Cay, when we circle back to it, is heavily laden with pasty tourists. Advertised Water Cay, when we circle back to it, is heavily laden with Morgan Cay, another rental islet, is bigger. It features a sprawling brown house Morgan Cay, another rental islet, is bigger. It features Señor Jack Neil has made a heavy investment in ambiance. A dozen baby palms Señor Jack Neil has made a heavy investment in ambiance. “We’ll go back,” she says, “with a mountain of food.” she says, “with a mountain “We’ll go back,” up is Jack we blow past them. Next for the metropolized cayos, Still in no mood There are many cayos to visit before the wind spanks us like naughty children, I wind spanks us like naughty cayos to visit before the There are many Located opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 The author checks out the pagoda on Morgan Cay some leaves, lounge on a stump, look out for tourists, collect. I’m about to tell him some leaves, lounge on a stump, look out for tourists, back and see that Yllithia has been intercepted by a shiny black man. I leave them beback and see that Yllithia has been intercepted by a shiny pen pals, meringue partners.a while. Perhaps they will find much in common, become points to the sign: Eventually I stroll over. He wants a maintenance fee and on Utila as paradise for picnickers and overnight tent campers, pretty much anyone on Utila as paradise for picnickers and overnight tent with a boat will take you to Water Cay for the right price. wedged between big shade trees and two docks: one for boats and the other for wedged between big shade trees and two docks: one us giddy. Yllithia makes sand- people, as evidenced by the pagoda. The place renders inches of water and almost angels. I perform a backflip off the boat dock into two asunder. Energy well spent. blow out both my knees. We kiss. I rip four coconuts hunker in wooden casings, thereby protected from the vicious afternoon wind while hunker in wooden casings, thereby protected from the stunning mood-setters. their roots seek purchase. One day they will become Neil Cay, a private islet with a yellow house in the middle. At present nobody appears Neil Cay, a private islet with a yellow house in the middle. to be there, which is all the invitation I require. say, and we shove off with promises to return. On the open water I tell Yllithia the return. On the open water off with promises to say, and we shove her heart and swoons about. and she clutches at family predicament —Continued on next page —Continued on JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Above right:Boomvang:MeganBowerhangsouton Above left:Petaltothemetal.Suchdetailshelped aboard Kamaloha Charlie Freeman,whocruiseson Rebecca ofVineyardHaven , becameessentialcrew by herowner,MarioPirri Below: Rebecca Antigua Classics! Latifa bySteveManley On Boardfor Heron isusuallysinglehanded win theConcoursd’Eleganceinherclass , waiting for the breeze to fill in for Race Four , waitingforthebreezetofillinRaceFour the fisherman prepares tolower mark asMeganBower Heron Neck-and-neck with drivesfortheupwind
Juno, ALL PHOTOS: STEVE MANLEY STEVE PHOTOS: ALL
of thejust-launched32-footer regatta drizzle,ordrool.Here,it’sokaytocovet.Youcan’thelpit. sloop approached AlexisAndrews,theownerofAntigua-basedCarriacou may wanttotrounceyourcompetition,butyoudoitnicely. don’t competeagainst,youwith.Youapplaudyourrivals. save itforSailingWeek,whichfollowsimmediatelyonitsheels.You year’s often-variableskies,theyachts(andcrewshirts)gleamed. Gaia call isforlaundryservice,althoughwenoticethat100-footItalianspeedster Chippy,” oneofAntigua’scustomwoodworkingshops.AnotherregularVHF without hiredhelp.)TheVHFisfilledwithcriesfor“Chippy,Chippy, too —andevenmoresooftheownerswhodoupkeepthemselves, varnishing. (Wedon’tcovetthemaintenancepart,butwe’reinaweofthat, families andlocalworkersoutvarnishing,sanding,polishing, there areasmanyaircraftlightsatthemastheadsanchorlights. low-flying clouds—aren’tenough.WatchoverFalmouthHarbouratnight, poured intotheseclassicdesigns. d’Elegance, thepre-racecompetitionthatrecognizesloveandattention handed fromItalybyherownerandwinnerofclassintheConcours Nearby, weswoonover expense, lovingly-restored-to-perfectionHerreshoff-designed upwind, merely12,700. schooner, whosetotaldownwindsailareais19,375squarefeet; the heart-stoppingreplicaofNatHerreshoff’s1910136-footracing J-Boats, and supportyachts.Likethey’retheretoprovidescale.Asifthetowering sail, hermulti-storeyblackchutesportsagiantredM.Formagnificent. yourself, andgleamingrodriggingyoucouldn’treachapalmaround.Under steer afewlegs.Charlieon met theownersof — andgivenaslotasforedeckcrew. thing youknow,he’spaintingthedeck,upachairsandingthemast Haven next year… ing, you’relikelytoleaveAntiguaafter Classics planningyourreturn a premiumone-Bay. part withit,aMountGayAntiguaClassics Regattaredhatcommands prepped forbynotmissingalltheother MountGayparties).Ifyou’ll ed bythenot-to-be-missedMountGayRedHatParty(whichyou’ve lobster night(freedrinksandbisque)followsuit. ground. Otherrace-eveningevents,suchastheMaine-sponsored pés, withtheday’shelicopter-shothighlightreelflowinginback- post race:free,andfree-flowingprosecco,winebeer,cana- with complimentaryespressoandcroissantsinthepre-racemorning; wealthy), doesthewholethinginclassicstyle,settingpartyline for Maho Bay,USVI;fromRockport,Maineinthesummer.(Thisfall,watch Elissa andMegan,home-schoolingaboard,theyrundaychartersoutof Schmidt. Duringthewintermonths,withtheirtwoyoungdaughters, Camden, Maine,in2003byherowners,Nigel“Twig”BowerandBonnie action andbeingactivecrew. Splitting thecompetition,butalsomyduties,betweensnapping win herclassinthecrewedseries. also theboat’schef!), handled byherfull-timeskipper,TarquinPlace,fromTasmania(he’s in stormyweather.(Remember,Ionlytookthephotos.)Impressively from her class’sConcoursd’Elegance). who racedherownyacht,the56-foot design builtinMartha’sVineyard2001,andthesubjectoftwobooks. Haven volunteered (andwasgraciouslyaccepted)ascrew. 54-foot yawl Handed, Isailedaboardthelegendary,OlinStephens-designed1934 Antigua YachtClub. were seensportingthestylishbluevolunteershirtsprovidedby From sweetlittleCarriacousloops(seventhisyear,withtheaddition We Hunter fromthecruisingboat But ifClassic-gawkingisgreat,participationevenbetter. This isamostgentlemanlyregatta:Leaveyourtestosteronebehind,or Swarming overthe68-boatfleetisanentirebeehiveofowners,crew, And sleekblack In thiscorner,at95feet,fromSaoPaulo,Brazil,thedazzling,spare-no- The classics share fender-room-only dock space with luxurious megas The classicssharefender-room-onlydockspacewithluxuriousmegas Don on —Seemoreimagesonnextpage aboard Steve ManleyandAnnVanderhoofcruise theCaribbean Even ifyoulimityourparticipationtothe partiesandtheboatgawk- Shortly aftertheawardsceremony,finalgunforClassicsissound- Antigua Classics’mainsponsor,Panerai(watchmaker-to-the- Heron For thenextfourraces,Ialternatedbetween And from the yachtie tradition of always-happy-to-lend-a-hand, crews And fromtheyachtietraditionofalways-happy-to-lend-a-hand,crews Ultimate participationbyacruiser,however,wenttoSusieStandhope, Me? Isignedupasaphotographer.Inthefirstrace,Single- Heron sports a full-size washer and drier in her lazarette.) Even under this sportsafull-sizewasheranddrierinherlazarette.)Evenunderthis Beach House,Asseance,Farhaven,Idunno,DolceVita and Genesis is owned by Brian and Pamela Malcolm. She’s a Nat Benjamin is ownedbyBrianandPamelaMalcolm.She’saNatBenjamin —a52-foot1928JohnAldendesignwasfamily-builtin Velsheda Receta. inJohnnyDepp’snewmovie,TheRumDiaries.) Asseance
Heron Stormy Weather tough toknowiftheslickondockisjustpre- 14th startoftheregatta.There’saseavarnish.It’s start makingforaysontothedocksdaysbeforeApril withanoffertohelpmaintenancechores.Next and Marie , bothschooners,andcompetingwitheachother. Rebecca ofVineyardHaven foundacrewspoton Stormy Weather Ranger , 180 feet long, with a bow so fine you could cut , 180feetlong,withabowsofineyoucouldcut Latifa Kamaloha — whose own 150-plus-foot masts puncture —whoseown150-plus-footmastspuncture . Which,appropriately,wasindeedsailed , a70-foot1936WilliamFifeyawl,single- New Moon ArcticTern placedthird.Shethenwentonto , a self-professed schooner junkie, , aself-professedschoonerjunkie, Spirited LadyofFowey ), to Guiding Light a few harbours back and afewharboursbackand Elena arrivedearly,and Rebecca ofVineyard Rebecca of Vineyard Rebecca ofVineyard , belleoftheball— , even getting to , evengettingto and more andmore (andwon Atrevida . JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25
Marie The Dutch-built The Dutch-built super ketch slices her way downwind , a 1906 gaff-rigged 12-meter yawl, Kate struts her upwind stuff — all 12,700 square feet of it Elena was saved from a Right:
Atrevida
The 1923
trip to the scrapyard, restored to per- fection, and sailed from Brazil for her first Classic Regatta On Board for for Board On
Photos by Steve Manley Antigua Classics! Antigua Continued from previous page Continued from — here in the Single-Handed race, later placed second in her class here in the Single-Handed race, later placed second in Above: A shutterbug’s dreamboat: JUNE 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 marina dockforthejudges.Theyalllookedfantastic, up inalltheirfineryandstruttedstuffatCarlo’s was meanttohaveprogressed!) little 30-footerupright?Ithoughtmodernyachtdesign just onepersonwhenittakessixgorillastokeepmy Kairos class. (Thelargestwasthe109-footstaysailschooner, by Greensmith atthehelminunder45-footclassand handed race,whichwaswonby single-handed raceandtheConcoursD’Elegance. 19th. TheeventstartedontheThursdaywithboth old girlsreadytodobattlefromApril14ththrough name forhotracers)thrownintothemix. — withofcourseafew“SpiritTradition”(another rigs andlotsofmastsbeing beady eyeofCaptainKennyCoombs—longkeels,gaff nized asusualundertheauspicesofAYCand finally hadtimetogetinvolvedwithClassics,orga- Antigua CSAmeasurer)beingfairlylightthisyear,I the ClassicRegatta.Well,measuringduties(Iam Streaker even ifthesailingisnotveryfast’ Just bobbin’along!‘Thecrewhavefun,
Rodney Bay,St.Lucia The 21entrantsfortheConcoursD’Elegancedressed Eighteen boatsturnedoutforthe12-milesingle- A recordentryturnedupthisyear—60beautiful Those ofyouwhoknowmeandmylittleraceboat, Through the Eye(brow)sThrough the Libertine . Isn’titgreattoseethesebigboatssailedby , willwonderwhatIamdoingwritingabout of a Raceboat Sailor of aRaceboat , steeredbyDonWard,intheover45-foot de rigueur