A Cruiser's View of Bequia

C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS NOVEMBER 20088 NNO.O. 158 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

A CRUISER'S VIEW OF BEQUIA

See story on page 28 WILFRED DEDERER NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 a NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4

SALLY ERDLE CONNELLY-LYNN The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore eiiigahr ...... 26 Revisiting ashore ...... Tobago Tour 25 A Bahamianfavorite ...... Bimini’s Tops 18,23 Venezuela’s ‘gulfcourse’ . Go Cariaco! See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissions [email protected]. Caribbean Compass [email protected] Dominica MarineCenter,Tel:(767)448-2705, Dominica: [email protected] Tel: (5999)767-9042,Fax:767-9003, Curaçao: Tel/Fax: (246)423-4600 Barbados: [email protected] Tel (268)720-6868 Antigua: Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410 Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass 37 Cartoons ...... Sailors’ Horoscope Island Poets 37 ...... Word SearchPuzzle 36 ...... Cruising Crossword Meridian Passage 32 ...... 14 Regatta News...... 10 Eco-News ...... 9 Business Briefs ...... AdSales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution - Cees de Jong Distribution-CeesdeJong Distribution - Doyle Sails Distribution-DoyleSails Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution -HubertJ.Winston NOVEMBER 2008•NUMBER158 welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes,maybemadewithoutwritten permissionofCompassPublishingLtd. ©2008 CompassPublishingLtd.Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction, copyortransmissionofthispublication, supplied byothercompanies. Compass PublishingLtd.acceptsnoliabilityfordelayeddistributionor printingqualityastheseservicesare responsibility foranystatementsmadetherein.Lettersandsubmissions maybeeditedforlengthandclarity. sole responsibilityoftheadvertiser,writerorcorrespondent,andCompass PublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! is published monthly by ispublishedmonthlyby www.caribbeancompass.com ...... 37 ...... 36 ...... DEPARTMENTS ISSN 1605-1998 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the Butthecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandlettersto editorarethe [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448, Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: 868)634-2622Mob:(868)620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (599)5533850,[email protected] Distribution -EricBendahan St. Maarten/St.Barths: [email protected] Tel: (758)484-0555, St. Lucia: [email protected] Tel: (0596)596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: [email protected] Mob: +590(0)6904945 Advertisers’ Index 54 ...... 54 Classified Ads ...... 51 Caribbean Marketplace...... What’s OnMyMind 50 ...... Readers’ Forum 47 ...... 44 Cooking withCruisers ...... Book Reviews 40 ...... 38 Dolly’s DeepSecrets ...... Cruising Kids’Corner 38 ...... rnddshldytaiin 43 Trinidad’s holidaytraditions . Christmas Caribbean 39 Cruisers getcreative ...... Art Afloat 32 Reclaiming astolenyacht ..... Repo Man Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Distribution -LisaKessell Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik AdSales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Stéphane Legendre Guadeloupe: Tel: (473)409-9451,[email protected] Ad Sales&Distribution-AlanHooper Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado AdSales&Distribution-IsabellePrado Distribution-GladysJones Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution-BryanLezama Ad Sales & Distribution AdSales&Distribution

Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales-DebraDavis, TERI JONES TERI Cover photo:WilfredDederer,Admiralty Bay,Bequia 7 6 -9 6 29 –30 29 –30 www.coursedelalliance.com 28 -30 28 –29 27 www.worldcruising.com/arc.AlsoARCflotillainSt. Lucia, www.yccs.it 24 [email protected] 23 22 19 15 -16 15 13 -21 13 11 11 [email protected] 10 -15 8 -10 tel(284)494-3286,[email protected],www.rbviyc.net 8 7 –9 7 –9 7 -8 6 -11 4 3 www.carib1500.com 2 [email protected] 1 -2 1 1 1 NOVEMBER etEdYctCu WY) otl,BI e 24 9-02 fax(284)495-4184,[email protected], www.weyc.net 5 –7 WestEndYachtClub(WEYC),Tortola,BVI,tel(284) 495-1002, www.jhycantigua.com/regattas.html 5 –7 5 -6 4 -9 3 1 DECEMBER e/a 28 6-79 [email protected] 31 31 26 tel/fax(268)460-1799,[email protected], 25 21 -29 www.antiguayachtclub.com 21 -28 21 20 19 -21 19 14 13 -14 13 12 9 –12 CommunityServiceDay.PublicholidayinDominica IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinDominica 19thWestMarineCaribbean1500setssailfromHampton,VAtoTortola. DHamiltonJacksonDay.PublicholidayinUSVI IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinAntigua&Barbuda AllSaints’Day.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndies SabaDay.Publicholidayin IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinBarbados USThanksgivingDay.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI StartofTransatlanticMaxiYachtCup,CanaryIslandstoSt.Maarten. ARC2008departsCanaryIslandsboundforSt.Lucia. Pusser’sRoundTortolaRace.RBVIYC DiscoveryDay.PublicholidayinPuertoRico StartofSpiceRacefromEnglandtoGrenada.www.spicerace.com ArmisticeDay.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndiesandBVI Veterans’Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI FULL MOON St.BartsNewYear’sEveRegatta Nelson’sPursuit Race,Antigua.AYC BoxingDay. Publicholidayinmanyplaces ChristmasDay.Publicholidayinmanyplaces Commodore’s CupRace,BVI.RBVIYC SeparationDay.PublicholidayinAnguilla NationalDay.PublicholidayinSt.Lucia.Boatraces. FULL MOON The St.MaartenCharterYachtExhibition.www.mybacaribbeanshow.com BVISchoolsRegatta,Royal BritishVirginIslandsYachtClub(RBVIYC), Women’sCaribbeanOne DesignKeelboatChampionship,St.Maarten. utvWledn 8hAna eoilCalne V. GustavWilmerding18thAnnualMemorialChallenge,BVI. 47thAntiguaCharterYachtMeeting.www.antiguayachtshow.com HeinekenRegattaCuraçao.www.heinekenregattacuracao.com TriskellCupRegatta,Guadeloupe.http://triskellcup.com LeTriangleEmerauderally,[email protected] If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismeventlistedFREEinourcalendar, ored ’lineRgta t are/t atsAgil. CoursedeL’AllianceRegatta,St.Maarten/St.Barths/Anguilla. NannyCayIC24NationsCup,Tortola.RBVIYC HeinekenArubaCatamaranRegatta.www.arubaregatta.com GoldenRockRegatta,StMaartentoSaba. ihieSre,Atga niu ah lb(Y) HightideSeries,Antigua.AntiguaYachtClub(AYC), [email protected] QuantumSailsIC24InternationalRegatta,BVI QuantumSailsIC24InternationalRegatta,RBVIYC Compass at thetimethisissueof information [email protected]. Start ofJ/24andBigBoatsSeries,St.Lucia. St. JohnChristmasMusicFestival,[email protected] [email protected] Rodney BaytoMarigotOvernightRally,St.Lucia. Coral BayThanksgivingRegatta,St.John,USVI.tel(340)513-4022 St. [email protected] BMW InvitationalJ/24Regatta,[email protected] H aiba eat,JlyHror niu. Carlos AguilarMemorialMatchRace,St.Thomas. JHR CaribbeanRegatta,JollyHarbour,Antigua. Chanukah (sunsettosunset) Winter Solstice St. LuciaYachtClubARCFunDay. The SuperyachtCupAntigua.www.thesuperyachtcup.com please sendthenameanddate(s)ofevent ATTENTION EVENTORGANIZERS! so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledge and contactinformationoftheorganizingbodyto annualcalendarofeventsfor2009isnow beingcompiled.Send CALENDAR [email protected]. Compass wenttopress—butplanschange,

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NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 —Continued on next page , we have used CAPN for years. It is a well- Meridian Chaser reported: “The Grenada Board of Tourism collaborated with the Grenada Board of Tourism reported: “The The Barnacle On-Line Yacht Clearance Updates clearance system for yachts traveling in the The first phase of an electronic the trials of eSeaClear so far have provided much valu- Yachtsmen participating in Want to check it out? Visit www.eSeaClear.com. Navigational Software ‘Reborn’ A large number of cruisers will be pleased to hear Jan and Judie Glodowski report: On our sailboat, For more information visit www.thecapn.com. Panama Visa Updates 2008) is reportedly now in Panama’s new Immigration law (Law #3 of 22 February may be issued, also condi- After the initial 90-day period of the tourist card, a visa Mal Bay now have improved mooring facilities. This comes after the placement on This comes after the have improved mooring facilities. Mal Bay now eliminating the [vessels can] safely tie onto, permanent anchors that October 8th of and four in placed in Flamingo Bay anchor.” Four moorings were need to drop two. These Mal Bay each received while Dragon Bay and Grand Moliniere Bay, are locat- operators and cruising yachts, with day charter boats, dive bays, popular Grenada’s of the capital, St. George’s. leeward coast just north ed on Grenada’s at Moliniere Bay. sculpture park is located famous underwater GBT will also in their positions. The Authority to place the moorings Grenada Ports extend the pres- of Fisheries in their thrust to along with the Ministry continue to work Area (MPA), as well as its mandate to monitor ent scope of the Marine Protected the protection of the marine environment.” and enforce all laws regarding was launched on July 1st with a pilot project in St. Caribbean, called eSeaClear, the relevant information via the internet at www. Lucia. Yacht skippers can submit will have progressive roll-out around the region. eSeaClear.com. The system the system has already seen some amendments toable feedback, and as a result For example, the website now provides for free textmake it even more user-friendly. type, the ability to change a password, a more secureentry of home port and engine on help for the calendar picker, and a new icon registration process, contact-sensitive notifications have been cleared by Customs.the notification list showing which CAPN is being reborn. Most of us loved the software that navigation software The when Maptech bought the package. Maptech did and were greatly disappointed put CAPN on a shelf to die. not want competition for their offerings and promptly away. Recently Maptech Mariners still kept buying CAPN and it just would not go be sold as a whole, its divi- went on the chopping block; when Maptech could not that Star Technologies sions were sold off individually. For aficionados, the news Corp. bought The CAPN could not be better. aid to navigation. We wel- thought-out piece of work that has been an invaluable supporting the space industry, come this newest evolution. With 30 years experience Technologies bring a whole aircraft designers and the US Navy, the people at Star CAPN. new perspective and promising future to the venerable for the issue of a 90-day effect and applies to all visitors arriving on yachts. It allows The 90-day period may be tourist card to passengers and crew of yachts on arrival. the same period of time. conditional on the prior issuance of a cruising permit for requirements listed are: tional on the prior issuance of a cruising permit. The visa attorney authorized to execute the request; three photographs;

CHRIS DOYLE The

, “Vessels that use the Flamingo Bay, Dragon Bay, Moliniere Bay and Grand , “Vessels that use the Flamingo

Moorings Installed in Grenada Bays Moorings Installed in Grenada October 9th edition of the Grenada newspaper According to a report in the Along with three other coves on Grenada’s west coast, Dragon Bay now has yacht Along with three other coves on Grenada’s west coast, moorings available

& Updates & Info Barnacle NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Her homeportyachtclubhasestablishedaBlueWaterCruisingTrophyinhername Pam Jost,adventurous,funlovingandfreespirited,wastypicalofmanycruisers. owner ofthevessel,makinghimresponsibleforotherpeoplewithvisas. marina (thenatureofthecontractisnotspecified);andaletterfromcaptainor cation astowhereorwhy);proofofacontractualrelationshipwithyachtclub service; US$100chargesperperson;copyofelectronicpaidreturnticket(nospecifi- …home nationIDcard;US$500depositinguaranteepostedwiththeImmigration Long-time CaribbeancruiserPamJostpassedawayonOctober1stafterasix- Eight Bells —

Continued frompreviouspage STEVE JOST STEVE —Continuedonnextpage or TrueBlue. Marine andSpiceIslandMarine,ortheboatsinGrenadaYachtClub,PortLouis, Marinas). ThesefiguresdonotincludethemanyboatsonhardinGrenada various marinas(ClarkesCourt,WhisperCove,PhareBlue,Martin’s,andPricklyBay Beach indicatedthereweremorethan170boatsatanchor,plus50dockedinthe Bay, HogIsland,PricklytheLagoon,andanchoragenorthofGrandAnse than inthemarinas.)ArecentcountofboatsMountHartmanBay,ClarkesCourt bays onthesouthendofGrenada.(Actuallytherearefarmoreboatsatanchor a futureissueof Millard of quiz onnauticalterms.AlargeWordFindpuzzlewasmadeupbyJudy them. Onthebeach,childrenwereentertainedbyJeannewithaspelling the lifejacketson,agoodopportunityforthemtobecomeaccustomed provided bycruisersandparents.Manyofthechildrenenjoyedswimmingwith resort inPricklyBay,whereallenjoyedswimmingandapicnicwithrefreshments other cruisers,sotherewouldbesufficientforall. Ontario 32-footsloop(thanks,AubreyandJudy).Extralifejacketswereprovidedby Kevin), (thanks, PamandChris), 13th, thereadinggroupwasinvitedtogosailingon group, acommunityprogramledbyJeanneandEverestPascal.OnSeptember mornings, workingonreadingandliteracyskillswiththeMt.AiryYoungReaders anchored aroundPricklyBayandHogIslandhavebeenvolunteeringSaturday ages sevento15,plussomeparentsandteachers,foratwo-hoursail.Afewcruisers the projectedwavepatterns—checkoutmagicseaweed.com. island orcoastline,asurfer’swebsitedisplayedgreatcomputer-modelgraphicsof generated byHurricaneOmar(seestoryonpage8)weregoingtohavetheir www.membersonlymaxitaxi.com. Congratulations,Jesse! James, launchedhisMembersOnlytaxiservicewebsite: Angeles, CA90068,andmarkedforthePamJostTrophyFund. Checks shouldbemadeandmailedtoJoleneBurton,2784HollyridgeDr.,Los her memory,adonationcanbemadeforthePamJostBlueWaterCruisingAward. name torecognizealloftheCBYCbluewatercruisingsailors,pastandpresent.In California onOctober18th. Life servicewasheldforPamattheJosts'homeportCabrilloBeachYachtClubin Steve’s superlativephotos,inthepagesof Viva month fightwithesophagealcancer.PamandherhusbandStevesailedaboard There isalargecruisingcommunityatanchorandintheseveralmarinas The groupwasreturnedbydinghytothepublicbeachnearCalabash Aubrey Millardreports:Fourcruisingsailboatsrecentlytook29youngGrenadians, Cruisers TreatYoungReaderstoaSail While manypeopleintheCaribbeanwerewonderingjustwhateffectseas October 2008markedthesecondyearsince“thecruisers’friend”inTrinidad,Jesse Cruisers Site-ings Condolences [email protected]. A BlueWaterCruisingTrophyhasbeenestablishedandwillbepresentedinPam’s andfrequentlysharedtheirextensivecruisingadventures,highlightedby Debonair Veleda IV Compass!) , a30-footcutter(thanks,LarryandDeborah), , forthekidstoworkonathome.( Blue Tang , a42-footHallbergRassey(thanks,Guyand Grenada Caribbean Compass Wild Cat We’ll sharethisin , a38-footcatamaran . ACelebrationof Veleda IV , an NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 Journal of we welcome new advertiser . Similar artifacts were found Compass Welcome Aboard! In this issue of Pre-Columbian Sailors Brought ‘Bongs’ to Caribbean Pre-Columbian Sailors Brought island chain has We all know that the Caribbean dating technique called “The research team used a Fitzpatrick and her team theorize that the colonizers “This may be the first evidence for inter-island trans- Tobago Carnival Regatta, page 12. Good to have you with us! and contribute to the social and economic life of this to the social and economic and contribute to Activities such as volunteering enjoyable island. a sail pro- skills and taking kids for help with reading to the an opportunity to contribute vide the cruisers Thank as well as economically. community socially, you Grenada for your hospitality. as a drug-smuggling corri- been used in recent years was an ancient tradition? dor, but who knew that this October 21st edition of According to a report in the State University’s Dr. CaribWorldNews, North Carolina unearthed in Scott Fitzpatrick says her team evidence to prove that Carriacou the first physical the Caribbean from South the people who colonized drug paraphernalia on America brought heirloom their voyages. the age of several arti- luminescence to determine island of Carriacou, facts found on the Caribbean dated back to and discovered that the items B.C.,” said a statement. between roughly 400 and 100 inhaling bowls and The items tested were ceramic used for the ingestion of snuffing tubes that were likely “hallucinogenic substances”. passed down the paraphernalia from generation to generation as they traveled through the islands. The study, “Evidence for inter-island transport of heirlooms: luminescence dating and petrographic analysis of ceramic inhaling bowls from Carriacou, West Indies,” will be published in a forthcoming issue of Archaeological Science on Puerto Rico and Vieques Island, over 750 km away. port of drug paraphernalia in the Caribbean,” added the statement.

MILLARD The cruisers appreciate the hospitality of Grenada and are happy to participate in Grenada and are happy to the hospitality of The cruisers appreciate rants, entertainment, and to other local merchants and services — not through any and services — and to other local merchants rants, entertainment, benefit is maxi- investments. In addition, this or foreign-owned government agencies a time when the hurricane season, staying in Grenada throughout mized by cruisers island is reduced in the off-season. other tourist income for the cruise ship and This amount goes directly into the local economy — for taxis, directly into the local This amount goes . Continued from previous page Continued from Considering that each boat with live-aboards spends, on average, EC$5,000 a spends, on average, each boat with live-aboards Considering that Members of the Mount Airy Young Readers Group are now ‘seasoned salts’ after enjoying a sail aboard Members of the Mount Airy Young Readers Group are now teach reading skills — another way of saying cruising boats visiting Grenada. Cruisers have been helping ‘thank you’ for the island’s hospitality tours, groceries, fuel, marine supplies, local produce, fish, computers, DVDs, restau- produce, fish, computers, fuel, marine supplies, local tours, groceries, month, that would be an economic benefit to Grenada of (220 x 5,000) to Grenada of (220 x 5,000) be an economic benefit month, that would monthly EC$1,100,000 — NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8

PITONS.NET DIANE GIVEN HAYES mangroves atSaltRiver(fartopright) yacht in ChristianstedHarbor(above),whilethe many boatsweredrivenintotheboardwalk The day after Omar. In hardest-hit St. Croix, The dayafterOmar.Inhardest-hitSt.Croix, Oh No-Omar! Kamani Technical shop Equipment forrent Haulout andhullsandblasting Breakdown service24/7 Engine diagnosis Boat Maintenance Mechanics andElectricity SERVICES was safely tucked into the was safelytuckedintothe LEAVE YOUR BOATINSKILLEDHANDS

B. NOEL FRED MARINE 24h BREAKDOWNSERVICE•SALESREPAIRSMAINTENANCE Phone: +590590907137Fax:908 651 Admiralty Bay,Bequia(right,2) Soufriere, St.Lucia(below),and surf inRoseau,Dominica(left), bays wereinundatedbyheavy Antigua suchasPigott’sVillage flooding inlow-lyingpartsof Normally shelteredwestcoast Above: Torrentialrainscaused MARINE MECHANICS(ALLMAKES)-HAULOUT Various lubricants Various lubricants Primers andAntifoulingInternational Electric parts,batteries Anodes,Shaft bearings Filtration FLEETGUARD Basic spareparts Genuine partsYanmar&Tohatsu GOODS E-mail: Marina Pointe-à-Pitre97110 (filters, impellers,belts) [email protected] were reported. in TeagueBay,onethevicinityofCottonValleyandtwonearSaltRiver. in St.Croix:33ChristianstedHarbor,11neartheCroixYachtClub Antigua, wherereportssaid15inchesfellinthreehours. buildings. Heavyrainfallassociatedwiththestormcausedfloodingin as Venezuela,scouringsandoffbeachesanddamagingsomeshoreside tered usuallyprotectedcoastlinesallalongtheLesserAntillesasfarsouth of 125mphandhighergusts. east ofSt.CroixintheUSVirginIslandsasaCategory3stormwithwinds northeastward course,itseyepassedapproximately15mileseast-south- 14.8°N, 69.6°W.TwodayslateritwasHurricaneOmarand,travelingona Hurricane Omardidnotscoreadirecthitonanylandmassandnodeaths According totheUSVIgovernment,Omarsankorsubmerged47vessels As “WrongWayLenny”haddonein1999,Omargeneratedseasthatbat- Tropical Depression15developedonOctober13thatapproximately

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ROCKY SARGENT ROCKY MARILYN COOK MARILYN WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 For more information on Errol Flynn Marina see ad on For more information on Errol Launches Website Technicold by Northern Lights an industry leader in Technicold by Northern Lights, from Rich Beers Marine, Since purchasing Technicold with the same easy-to- The site has been designed Lights see ad on For more information on Northern Bequia’s Wallace & Co Moves to New Location From the first of December, customers are invited to “As a duty-free chandlery, we will continue to pro- Jogi, Bip, Kerah and Allan will be there to help you Bip will help you find the perfect snorkeling or diving Long-time staff Kerah and Allan will be at your ser- Bip says, “Come and see us and be ready for For more information see ad on page 29. Comprehensive Cargo Services in St. Maarten Managing Director Eric Bendahan reports: to include Errol Flynn Marina in the 2009 itinerary came Flynn Marina in the 2009 itinerary to include Errol stop- several rally participants recently as the result of the and subsequently urging ping at Port Antonio One Jamaica in future itineraries. organizers to include the various is to focus attention on goal of the event Both the of the Central Caribbean. marine facilities of Jamaica Board and Port Authority Jamaica Tourist closely Flynn Marina) will be working (owners of Errol visit is a to ensure that the Jamaica with the organizers rally. highlight of the on the Transcaraibes page 22. For more information 51. Yacht Rally see ad on page refrigeration, announces marine climate control and website the launch of the brand new www.technicold.com. Lights has been devel- Inc. in January 2008, Northern for the custom solu- oping the marketing campaign of Technicold’s line tions and advanced technology air handling and refriger- of onboard air conditioning, first step in that evolu- ation solutions. The significant tion is the Technicold website. Lights marine gen- use visitor interface as the Northern erators website. page 42. meet their old friends Jogi, Bip, Kerah and Allan at the new location of Wallace & Company chandlery in Port Elizabeth, Bequia. Bip says, “The bigger premises and convenient location next to the Porthole Restaurant on the waterfront will make it possible to extend our well-known range of fishing, diving and boating supplies and services. vide the boats in transit with all their requirements. As you all know, we go the extra mile to handle your special requests with transshipment in coordination with our broker and the Customs authorities.” with their expert advice. If you want to catch a fish, Jogi can set you up with a professional fishing charter or help you select the right equipment for catching one yourself. He has fished these waters for more than 20 years and he has been extremely suc- cessful in international fishing tournaments, including the famous catch of a 435-pound marlin off the coast of Bequia. equipment for the whole family. If you need prescription glasses, no problem. Wallace & Company carry special masks and equip them with the glasses you need for each individual eye so you can truly admire the underwater beauty with total focus. vice with the professionalism, good humor and friendly attitude Wallace & Company are known for. a surprise!” CIRExpress of St. Maarten is pleased to announce our new services for all shippers and consolidators. We specialize in expert freight forwarding and warehouse management. Our goal is to help you find better ways to manage your cargo. —Continued on page 42 , in honour of the barge operator , in honour of the barge operator Daisy and sank it outside Moliniere Bay as a Hilda This is the second wreck that Camper & Nicholsons This is the second wreck that Camper & Nicholsons In 2007, the Peter de Savary Group removed the For more information on Port Louis Marina see ad on Errol Flynn Marina, Jamaica, is New Rally Stop Port Antonio, Jamaica, and Errol Flynn Marina have Camper & Nicholsons will also put mitigating factors will also put mitigating Camper & Nicholsons effort & Nicholsons’ ongoing As a result of Camper vessel sunken 50-foot Cuban fishing Last month, a has donated to the dive association’s efforts to add has donated to the dive association’s efforts to add new dive sites. Recently a small barge was removed from Port Louis and relocated in Dragon Bay as the first attraction in what the Grenada Scuba Diving Association hopes will become a new snorkeling destination. wreck dive site. page 21. been added to the itinerary for the 10th Annual Transcaraibes Yacht Rally, which will include a three- to four-day visit in late April 2009. An estimated 15 to 20 yachts, mostly from the French Departments of Guadeloupe, Martinique and Saint Martin, are expected to participate, according to rally organizer Stéphane Legendre. The rally will also include stops in the Dominican Republic, Haiti and Cuba. The decision who put her in her new home. to our sewage treatment plant,” Rawls explained. to our sewage pristine. Boat that the lagoon stays in place to ensure boats or do be allowed to paint their owners will not in the lagoon. heavy repairs a new Louis Marina, Grenada has to clean up Port became Cuban fishing vessel recently wreck dive. A in Grenada’s diving portfolio. the 17th wreck Louis Marina area and was removed from the Port at a dive site called relocated off Grand Anse Beach Boss Reef. Phil Saye, presi- The Valleys, which is part of Diving Association, said, dent of the Grenada Scuba an already amazing “The new wreck site will enhance rare chance to view a dive site and offer divers a Cuban fishing vessel is piece of maritime history.” The of concrete, probably rare in that it is made entirely attempt to build low- built in the 1970s as a Cuban information on the his- cost ships. As there is very little proper name, she’s tory of the boat, including her been called

“In Grenada, we started by continuing the clean-up Camper & Nicholsons’ Port Louis Marina General Camper & Nicholsons’ Port Grenada’s Port Louis: A Cleaner Marina Grenada’s Port Louis: A Cleaner and Camper & The Government of Grenada A sunken Cuban-built fishing boat is now Grenada’s newest wreck dive site

BUSINESS BUSINESS BRIEFS of the lagoon. As you know, there were old wrecks and other debris in the lagoon. We have done an extensive clean-up, which has resulted in significantly improved water clarity,” Rawls remarked. “During our construction phase we are also taking steps to ensure that there is minimal disturbance to the environment. Many of our docks will be floating docks [which] can be installed with minimal disruption to the lagoon bed. Yachts in our facility will not be allowed to empty their waste tanks into the lagoon. They will have to connect to our pump-out system where the waste will go protected. “Camper and Nicholsons has been in the yachting business since 1782. We have a long tradition of environmental consciousness and advocacy,” the General Manager said. “We will adopt best practices from the marina industry and apply them here at Port Louis. Manager Clyde Rawls discussed the steps Camper & Manager Clyde Rawls discussed that the environment is Nicholsons is taking to ensure Nicholsons have agreed that environmental issues are Nicholsons have agreed that in the development of of paramount importance between Grenada’s marinas. During a meeting David and Camper & Minister of Tourism Hon. Peter protection was dis- Nicholsons officials, environmental cussed extensively. NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10

FUNDACION LA TORTUGA Grenada’s onlyofficialnationalpark. Mt. Hartman,alsoknownastheDoveSanctuary,was given overfordevelopmentasaFourSeasonsresort. idgaal rs ypoai fa of symptomatic trash biodegradable ground-dwelling GrenadaDove( habitat ofGrenada’sendemicnationalbird,therare stunned whenmuchofMt.HartmanNationalPark, ronmental issuesplayoutinrecentyears.Manywere alike havebeenwatchingdevelopmentalversusenvi- Grenada’s southcoast,wherecruisersandGrenadians there istopickup! not seehowmuchtrashwecanpickup,butlittle of garbageeveryyear? tors totheCaribbeancreatingthisappallingamount clean oneup.Whyarewecitizens,residentsandvisi- goes, itisbetternottomakeamessthanhave on anotherannualjobwelldone.Butasthesaying beaches, andeveryoneinvolvedistobecongratulated tons oftrashandcleanedhundredsCaribbean it alsooriginatesfromdumpingbyvesselsatsea. washed tothelocationviastormsanddrains.Someof such aspicnicsand“beachsplashes”,wellthat society. Garbageonbeachescamefromon-siteevents, biodegradable trashsymptomaticofa“throwaway” plastic sodaandwaterbottles,otheritemsofnon- activities andincludedmillionsoffast-foodcontainers, beaches andshorelineswasgeneratedbyhuman during themonth.Mostoflittercollectedalong tion fromcommunitiesthroughouttheCaribbean cially celebratedonSeptember20th,withparticipa- CARIBBEAN ECO-NEWS The AmericanBirdConservancyreports:Since Mt. HartmanBayisapopularanchorageon Progress onProtectedAreaforGrenadaDoveSlows For InternationalCoastalClean-UpDay2009,let’s Thousands ofvolunteerscollectedtonsand International CoastalClean-UpDay2008wasoffi- International CoastalClean-Up2008 Leptotila wellsi “ ho away throw ), was ” ect. Thegovernmentislookingforanalternativeloca- stalled overacompetingproposalforhousingproj- Beauséjour, onGrenada’swestcoast.Thisefforthas new protectedareaforthedoveinvicinityof Hartman, workcontinuestoestablishanadditional and constructionhasbegun. tected area.Thenewplanwasapprovedthissummer, stronghold, wasreconfiguredtomaximizethepro- and Mt.HartmanNationalPark,thedove’spopulation developer Cinnamon88greatlyscaledbacktheirplans, Four Seasonsresort.Inresponsetotheseconcerns, critically endangeredGrenadaDoveposedbyanew the developersonGrenadatoaddressthreat American BirdConservancy,havebeenworkingwith 2006, scientistsandenvironmentalgroups,including Meanwhile, tooffsetthelossofhabitatatMt. hazards suchascarelesslydiscardedplasticbagsandfishingnets,veryfewsurvivetoadulthood Tiny turtlehatchlingsheadfortheseainVenezuela.Theycouldlive80years,butduetopredatorsand to cleanup? our children so muchmessfor Why areweleaving to sanddunevegetationthatprotectsfragilecoastlines. grass bedshealthyandtheirnestingprovidesnutrients ecosystems. Forexample,theirgrazinghelpskeepsea on. Allspeciesofseaturtlearelistedasendangered. trash suchasplasticbags,whichturtlesoftenchoke shell, andbykeepingourCaribbeanSeafreefrom and dogs,bynotpurchasingitemsmadefromturtle turtle nestsfrompoachersandpredatorssuchaspigs tles willreachmaturity.Wecanhelpbyguarding but outofthosethousandeggsperhapsonlytwotur- as manyathousandeggsinonenestingseason, late September. Isla laTortugainVenezuelahadthisexperience way tothewater.FundaciónlaTortugaresearchersat actually hatchingandthebabyturtlesmakingtheir returning tothesea. ing ashore,diggingtheirnests,layingeggs,and huge leatherbacksandothertypesofseaturtlescom- ple havehadtheunforgettableexperienceofseeing nesting beaches.Throughorganizedtours,manypeo- of watchingseaturtleslaytheireggsonCaribbean to advancedoveconservation. change ingovernmentwillprovidenewopportunities dove haveonlyjustbegun,butitishopedthatthe Minister TillmanThomas’Administrationoverthe first timesince1995.DiscussionswithnewPrime tion NationalDemocraticCongressintopowerforthe Grenada onJuly8,2008,whichbroughttheopposi- directly adjacenttooccupieddovehabitat. proposal toopenaquarryatBeauséjour,onsite small island.Newconcernshavealsoarisenovera tion forthehousingproject,adauntingchallengeon

Sea turtles are essential to the health of many marine Sea turtlesareessentialtothehealthofmanymarine It hasbeenestimatedthatonefemaleturtlecanlay More infrequentistheopportunitytoseeeggs “Turtle watching”istheeco-tourism-drivenactivity Sea TurtleHatchingObservedinVenezuela In yetanothertwist,ageneralelectionwasheldin JOSE VOGLAR (2) VOGLAR JOSE NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 and

.com to make the MMAP a reality to make the MMAP

What is STAC? Advisory A Scientific and Technical For UNEP working documents of MMAP Dr. Nathalie Ward has served as marine Protected Areas and Wildlife (SPAW (SPAW Protected Areas and Wildlife for biodi- Protocol), a regional agreement for versity management and conservation (WCR). The the Wider Caribbean Region law in SPAW Protocol became international are 12 Member June 2000. To date, there Colombia, Parties including: Barbados, France, Cuba, Dominican Republic, St. Vincent Netherlands, Panama, St. Lucia, & Tobago, the & the Grenadines, Trinidad USA and Venezuela. Committee (STAC) of government-designat- non-govern- ed experts and experts from and scientific mental organizations (NGOs) by the institutions, was established a pivotal role in Protocol. The STAC plays recommending to the Contracting Parties the species to be listed in the Annexes. The STAC provides a unique opportunity to meet and reach consensus on biodiversity issues relevant to SPAW and other Caribbean conventions. from COP 5 Meeting: www.cep.unep.org/ meetings/2008/v-spaw-cop/meeting_docu- ments_viewSee. mammal consultant for UNEP/SPAW Protocol and its draft Marine Mammal Action Plan since 1990. On behalf of the Stellwagen From chin to nose, From chin to nose, flows. Many a gallon Bequia, SVG — Bertram Wallace, What is SPAW? for of the Marine Environment for the Protection and Development The Convention Cartagena Convention adopted the Protocol Concerning In April 1990, Parties to the all of us who have worked over the past 15 years have worked over the past all of us who raise your glasses high. raise your glasses Sanctuary Programme, she Bank National Marine Sanctuary and the National Marine recent Scientific and Technical served as a member of the US delegation at SPAW’s divides her time as a marine Advisory Committee meeting in July (Guadeloupe). She Saint Vincent & the biologist and marine mammal educator between Bequia, Grenadines and Woods Hole, Massachusetts. the Wider Caribbean Region (Cartagena Convention, 1983) is the only region-wide Convention, 1983) is the Region (Cartagena the Wider Caribbean while pro- marine and coastal ecosystems, that protects critical environment treaty and sustainable development. moting regional co-operation Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies first SPAW meeting (in Martinique), wherein all (in Martinique), wherein first SPAW meeting

Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238 Marine Mammal Action Plan (MMAP) for the Wider Marine Mammal Action Plan (MMAP) for the Wider

in 2005 (Barbados). This framework of activities was devel- in 2005 (Barbados). This framework of activities was — a conservation plan to protect whales, dolphins and manatees dolphins and manatees plan to protect whales, — a conservation first

BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS t’s a throughout the Caribbean! throughout the Since 1984 Since

by Nathalie Ward by Nathalie BY CARIBBEAN-WIDE PLAN BY CARIBBEAN-WIDE MARINE MAMMALS NOW PROTECTED MAMMALS NOW MARINE I What’s next? The challenge is to translate the text on paper into ACTION! It is time The US delegation successfully initiated three priority actions for the upcoming The US delegation successfully initiated three priority The MMAP will set a framework and specific recommended actions to protect the The MMAP will set a framework and specific recommended After five long years under development and negotiation by Parties and NGO After five long years under development and negotiation One of the goals of UNEP’s SPAW Protocol is to develop specific regional and SPAW Protocol is to develop specific regional and One of the goals of UNEP’s It’s been a long history in the making. The Caribbean’s marine mammal program Caribbean’s marine mammal history in the making. The It’s been a long The Marine Mammal Action Plan for the Wider Caribbean Region was adopted by Wider Caribbean Region was Action Plan for the The Marine Mammal

[email protected] www.barefootyachts [email protected]

CONNELLY-LYNN for a toast — a CELEBRATION for the future protection of whales, dolphins and manatees in the Caribbean! It’s been a long journey but so worthwhile. Please join SPAW/MMAP Workplan and Budget. The first is a marine mammal stranding SPAW/MMAP Workplan and Budget. The first is Eastern Caribbean Cetacean response workshop in partnership with France and the offer by the Commonwealth of Network (ECCN) in the fall of 2009. The second is an personnel from neighboring Puerto Rico Department of Natural Resources to train and response. The other Spanish-speaking countries on marine mammal rescue data exchange with priority priority actions are related to information collection and actions for whale watching and stranding programs. populations of marine mammals in the Caribbean region from a variety of threats populations of marine mammals in the Caribbean region Development; Pollution and related to the following areas: Coastal and Watershed Regimes; Research; Marine Mammal Health; Protected Areas and Other Management Activities; Marine Mammal Marine Mammal Watching in the Wild and Associated Noise; Standings; Marine Mammals in Captivity; Acoustic Disturbance/Underwater Vessel Strikes; and Climate Change. support of national biodiversity conservation efforts. In order to achieve this, Parties support of national biodiversity conservation efforts. In of SPAW developed a draft the SPAW’s Scientific and efforts including meetings, e-groups and workshops, meeting in Guadeloupe (July Technical Committee (STAC) agreed at the recent and final adoption (in 2008) to forward the MMAP to COP-5 for consideration Antigua September 2008). Caribbean Region (WCR) their efforts to develop and oped in order to assist governments in the region with policies. The Action Plan also improve marine mammal conservation practices and and education and aims to promote regional cooperation on research, information enhance the exchange of technical expertise. national management plans for endangered, threatened or vulnerable species in for endangered, threatened or vulnerable species national management plans had its beginning in 1991 at the had its beginning animal species, Annex II — endangered species were listed on marine mammal protection. which required the United Nation Environment Programme’s (UNEP) Specially Protected Areas and (UNEP) Specially Protected Environment Programme’s the United Nation the beginning of of Parties (COP-5) at Programme’s Conference Wildlife (SPAW) September 2008. NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13

ROBERT DUNKLEY/ WWW.DUNKS.SMUGMUG.COM ‘BAH’ — but not humbug! More young Bahamians are learning to race, ‘BAH’ — but not humbug! More young Bahamians are thanks to a national sailing school program F D P G A P

T N E M E E R

' E record 81 boats competed in the 2008 Bahamas Optimistrecord 81 boats competed held on Montagu Bay in National Championships on September 27th and 28th. Nassau, New Providence B I A R A Record Participation at Bahamas at Bahamas Participation Record Championships Optimist # A For the fourth time since its inception in 2005, the Bahamas since its inception in 2005, the Bahamas For the fourth time Opti National Championships were held on Montagu Bay, orga- Opti National Championships were held (BSA) together with nized by the Bahamas Sailing Association Sailing Club. the Nassau Yacht Club and the Royal Nassau For more information and full results The Organizing Authority extends its appreciation to The Organizing Authority extends its appreciation to The organizers say, “Congratulations to these 81 young The organizers say, “Congratulations to these 81 young In the Green Fleet, Spencer Cartwright finished first In the Green Fleet, Spencer Cartwright finished first Seven races were on the schedule and all seven races Seven races were on the schedule and all seven races Thirty-nine boats participated in the first edition of the visit www.bahamassailing.org. the sponsors for their support: Rotary Club of East the sponsors for their support: Rotary Club of East Nassau – Gold Sponsor; Kentucky Fried Chicken, Lyford of Cay Foundation – Silver Sponsors; KPMG, Ministry - Sports, Ministry of Tourism, and Odyssey Aviation Bronze Sponsors. sailors — and let’s see if we can reach 100 boats on the sailors — and let’s see if we can reach 100 boats on starting line next year!” with 9 points, Enrico Rio took second place and Alton with 9 points, Enrico Rio took second place and Alton Jones the third, both with 32 points. were completed, although the very first race of the series were completed, although the very first race of the series of on the Saturday morning was abandoned due to a lack de wind. With an excellent final score of 9 points, Danny Cardenas of the Royal Nassau Sailing Club became this by year’s Bahamas National Champion. He was followed the two-time National Champion Christopher Sands of Nassau Yacht Club with 10 points. Theran Mailias from Long Island took third place with 24 points. regatta back in 2005. This year, a record total of 81 boats entered in the Championship Fleet and the Green Fleet, with young competitors coming from New Providence, Eleuthera, The Abacos (including Man O War, Elbow and aGuana Cays), Grand Bahama and Long Island. This is clear statement of the growing success of the BSA National Sailing School programme, which started in 2004. NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 and thenewchaseboat with membersoftheGrenadaYouthSailingProgram Vlasto, SalesDirectorofFourSeasons/Cinnamon88, Benoit, KevinBanfieldand,secondfromleft,James From right:JacquiPascall,MichaelMcQueen,James ghies andlearningtosailwellsafely.Withthe mega-yachts startfromhere—bylearningtosaildin- ment ofsailinginGrenada.Captainsbigboatsand for thisimportantsupportthecontinueddevelop- would liketothankthemanagementofFourSeasons Yacht ClubandtheGrenadaSailingAssociation,I ing FourSeasons,hesaid:“OnbehalfoftheGrenada GYC, whoisalsoViceChairmanoftheGSA.Inthank- much bettertechnicalandtacticalinstruction.” stay closetothedinghiesoutonwater,andgive Banfield, MichaelMcQueenandVaughnBruno—to This newboatwillenableourinstructors—Kevin ors, whateveramountofexperiencetheymayhave. Program. Safetyisourfirstprioritywithyoungsail- is veryimportanttotheongoingYouthSailing Grenada SailingAssociation(GSA). Grenada YachtClub(GYC)andsupportedbythe take partintheYouthSailingProgramrunby will haveabetterlearningenvironmentwhenthey a brand-newchaseboat,youngsailorsinGrenada NEWS www.caribbeancompass.com The boatwaspresentedtoJamesBenoitofthe GSA TreasurerJacquiPascallexplains:“Thisdonation Thanks toadonationbytheFourSeasonsGroupof Safety FirstforYoungGrenadianSailors REGATTA the slackinquietweekspriortobeginningof of theSt.LuciaYachtClub(SLYC)decidedtotakeup Davenport &Company,LLC. Earth. Thetransponderprogramissponsoredby customized toincorporatefeaturesfromGoogle played ontheCaribbean1500websiteusingsoftware satellite everyfourhours.Eachboat’strackwillbedis- sponders oneachyacht,positionswillbeupdatedvia expected thisyear. our previousrallies.”Between50and60boatsare 65, aFarr50,andSantaCruz52—allveteransof include aSwan56,HallbergRassy62,Macgregor already signedupforthisyear’sCaribbean1500 Performance Class.Qualifyingboatsthathave competitive) Classes,asalways,butwilladda This year,wewillhaveourRallyandCruising(non- competition forlow-handicapperformancecruisers. Steve Black,“weareaddingalevelofmoreintense rally participants,”explainedFounderandPresident the event. mance cruisers,thusexpandingtheracingportionof Caribbean willaddacompetitiveclassforperfor- (473) 415-2022. and eventheOlympicsinLondon2012.” represented inthefuturemoreInternationalevents the regionandourlong-termgoalistohaveGrenada who havenowrepresentedGrenadainregattas ing. Wealreadyhaveyoungsailorsfromthisprogram not onlywhatfunsailingcanbe,butalsohowreward- Grenadian would-besailorsjoiningusandfindingout sailors heretoday.” of averypositivewayforwardformanyouryoung help ofFourSeasonsIbelieveweareseeingthestart Ted Bullreports:The“OldyGoldy”sailingmembers Opti RacingforGrown-UpsinSt.Lucia For moreinformationvisitwww.carib1500.com. “Responding toarequestfromsomeofourveteran This year’sCaribbean1500rallyfromtheUSto Caribbean 1500AddsNewClass,Start For moreinformationcontactJacquiPascallattel Jacqui Pascalladded:“Wearekeentoseemore boats intherally.Withwirelesstran- day willmonitortheprogressof Virgin Islands. Roadtown, Tortola,British ends atVillageCayMarinain event activitiestogether.”Therally the Caribbeanandjoininpost- simultaneously onourdestinationin Charleston fleetswillconverge Charleston start.TheHamptonand stressful passageiftheyjointhe under 40feetmayhavealess Black. “Inaddition,someboats the startinHampton,”saidSteve around CapeHatterastojoinusfor southern USarehesitanttosailnorth discovered thatboatsfromthe Carolina. “Overtheyears,wehave Virginia, andCharleston,South November 2ndfrombothHampton, schedule simultaneousstartson Over 10,000websitevisitorseach The Caribbean1500thisyearwill —Continuedonnextpage visit www.stluciayachtclub.com. fees gototheSLYCJuniorSailingProgramme. Saturdays forgrown-ups.Theproceedsoftheentrance and theSt.LuciaYachtClubhostedmoreOpti late, amplyassistedbyMr.HeinekenandPiton, ors, thefleettookonamoreseriousaspect. for asecondbash.Nowwith“experienced”Optisail- ging! Fedandwatered,theO/Dturnedthemaround sailors cameashoreforalunchbreakandsomebrag- “man overboard”style,mainly! crews disembarkedaselegantlytheycould— to hiswaistinthewatertakeresultsas beach. Theofficeroftheday,PeterGibbs,stoodup away, thenhardenuptothebeatback and bangingintothebuoy. things gotseriouswithendlessscreamsfor“water!” away. Atthemark,whichtheyhadtoleaveport, over thesidesandsomeheadsvisible,fleetgot was areachofsome400yards.Withlegsprotruding their floatingboatsandheadforthefirstmark,which having firsttoclimbin,fallorsomehowgetinto on araceoffReduitBeachinfrontoftheclubhouse. of thegrownfolksriggedandsailedclub’sOptis joke cametofruitiononSeptember14thwhenseven the newjuniortrainingseason.Whatstartedoutasa For moreinformation The post-racing“wash-up”anddebatewentonuntil Tired, kneesmashedup,wetandexhausted,the A quickrundowntothenextbuoyjustafewyards A LeMansstartcommencedwiththeintrepidsailors • gasstation • tel+fax+internet • water/ice/laundry • deepwaterstern-toberth

gas station:(+)596661730 POINTE DUBOUT, MARTINIQUE RESTAURANT e-mail: [email protected] Open 7/7VHF:16/68 CUSTOMS CLEARANCE Tel: (+)596660545 DOCK, BAR 14˚33N -61˚03W &

NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Now in its fourth year, this multi-island regatta has year, this multi-island regatta Now in its fourth For more information visit www.goldenrockregatta.com. Regatta Three-Legged Race: Fifth Alliance de L’Alliance regatta The fifth edition of Le Course For more information 40th Anniversary Spice Island Billfish Tourney’s 20th through 23rd 2009 Gary Clifford reports: January A shot from the old days of the Spice Island Tournament, when all fish were brought to the scales Golden Rock Regatta. Others include the Statia Island Regatta. Others include the Golden Rock The De Wilgen Vastgoed, Presidente, Government, Lighthart Moorings, Windward-Adventures, Oliver’s, Sint Bobby’s Marina, Captain Communicatie, and Nettravel Associates. Rose Arcade, of partici- an impressive number already attracted and the racing on chartered bareboats, pants, mainly The regatta entries are up 30 percent. organizers say to St. participants from St. Maarten itinerary takes Golden Rock”) and back Barths, St. Kitts, Statia (“The runs from November to St. Maarten. This year’s edition 10th through 15th. through 30th, with legs will run from November 28th St. Barths to Anguilla from St. Maarten to St. Barths, and Anguilla back to St. Martin. visit www.coursedelalliance.com. of Grenada’s Annual will mark the historic 40th running — the longest-running Spice Island Billfish Tournament in the Southern and most popular tournament not know the term, “bill- Caribbean. For those who do marlin, sailfish, spearfish fish” refers to members of the and swordfish family, which have in common the extended upper jaw known as a “bill”. —Continued on next page ARC2008 departs from Las For more information visit Coral Bay, St. John, The 27th Annual Coral Bay Palmas, Gran Canaria on November 23rd, bound for Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. A full programme of social activities, safety seminars and demonstrations will be organised by World Cruising Club in Las Palmas prior to the start, and after the finish in St. Lucia. www.worldcruising.com/arc. Thanksgiving Regatta Thanksgiving Regatta will take place on November 28th and 29th. Serious PHRF racers, plus Gaff Riggers, Cruisers, Multi- Hulls, Single-Handers, and Traditional boats compete. On Saturday, as usual, the PHRF class will start together. But new this year, all other classes will have staggered Le Marin For more information contact Denise Wright at tel Golden Rock Regatta Has New Sponsor Nustar/Statia Terminal, the main employer on the Here Comes ARC2008! the world, trans-ocean sailing event in As the largest starts in a Pursuit Race. Skinny Legs Restaurant is the home of the Coral Bay Yacht Club, and the place to meet for Skipper’s Meetings, music, food, drink and the Awards Ceremony. Entry fee is US$40. All proceeds go to the Kids And The Sea program. (340) 513-4022. island of Statia, is the newest sponsor of this year’s every year the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) brings ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) every year the the world than 200 yachts from all over together more Atlantic Canary Islands across the to sail from the race for Conceived as a friendly Ocean to St. Lucia. both to make the Atlantic crossing cruising yachts yachts must enjoyable, participating safer and more a liferaft, of safety equipment including carry a range fur- radio. Daily radio nets contribute EPIRB and VHF ther to the safety of participants. Zinc Anodes Plumbing Marine Paints Batteries Epoxy Antifouling THE THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE Centre de Carenage 97290 Le Marin Continued from previous page Continued from For more information Guadeloupe’s Triskell Cup Attracts Diverse Crews The 8th Annual Triskell Cup regatta, to be held in For more information contact St. Maarten Opti Open Championship Rescheduled St. Maarten Opti The 4th Annual St. Maarten Cary Byerley reports: Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 [email protected] contact [email protected]. Guadeloupe from Novermber 8th through 10th, has attracted diverse international crews. The winning crew of La Rochelle International Week in France received six air tickets from the tour operator Nouvelles Antilles.com and an eight-day charter aboard an Archambeau 40 offered by Autremer Concept in Martinique, in order to take part. More French crews, from Nancy, Cherbourg and Brittany, are also expected as well as numerous crews from Antigua, Martinique and Dominica. At least four all- woman crews, including those from Martinique and Italy, are also expected. Cary at [email protected] or tel (599) 588-2474. many of the marinas in St. Maarten. The St. Maarten sailors expect to be joined by competitors from the youth sailing programme in neighboring Anguilla for the regatta. The event is sponsored by SOL. Optimist Open Championship scheduled for October Championship scheduled Optimist Open 8th, due to rescheduled for November 18th has been Omar. The by the passage of Hurricane delays caused sailors who the abilities of young event will showcase Programme a year-long Youth Sailing participated in junior sailors Maarten Yacht Club. The run by the Sint brand-new forward to trying out several will be looking generous donations from Optimist dinghies, thanks to — The junior sailors in St. Maarten are looking forward to racing their brand-new Optis on November 8th NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 Fish aretagged,photographedandsetfree In present-daytournaments,it’scatch-and-release. es ofBlueMarlin,WhiteMarlinandSailfish,isprob- and thetournamentreliablyproducesmultiplereleas- some ofthemostprolificinSouthernCaribbean anglers. Whydotheycome?Grenada’swatersare breakers) areretainedandweighedforpoints. a fewofthebiggestfish(usuallypotentialrecord based onlyonthespeciesofbillfish,notsize.Only tograph thefishinwaterandpointsareawarded are releasedalive.Eachboatgetsacameratopho- and now,intheinterestofconservation,mostbillfish day toseethefishdisplayed.Timeshavechanged crowd aroundtheweighingscalesatendof the dockdeterminedwinner,andpeoplewould contingent ofsupport. Martinique —joinedin,andaretothisdaythemain islands —Trinidad&Tobago,Barbados,StLuciaand Almost immediately,boatsfromalltheneighbouring anglers aliketoparticipateintheannualevent. men workedhardatattractingvisitorsandlocal Association rulestosuittheGrenadaevent.These tion andadaptedInternationalGameFishing Fishing Tournament. Bahari Mathias, ownerofabeautifulsportsfishingvessel, Trinidad andtheymetinGrenadawithMartin fish. In1964,hecalledhisfriendLouisRostantfrom open boat, ture alongthecoastlineofGrenadainhis14-foot Flamboyant Hotel.Helivedtofishandlovedven- — The 2008tournamenthad36boatscarrying175 Back then,thenumberandweightoffishbroughtto Jim andLouisworkedtirelesslytorefinetheorganisa- It allstartedwithJimNeedhamofGrenada’s Continued frompreviouspage , tostagethefirst-everGrenada Mambo , wherehecaughtdozensofbill- Barbuda. After taking Nevis and Saba to port and St. Barbuda. AftertakingNevisandSabatoportSt. course firsttakesthefleettonorth,passingamarkoff February 23rdoutsideEnglishHarbour,Antigua.The RORC andAntiguaYachtClub,isscheduledtostarton would allowforaseparateCSAclassandtrophy. the CSAentriesuptomorethantenyachts,which the website.Iamhopingthatwewillbeabletopush (RORC) safetyrequirements,whichcanbefoundon as longtheyadheretoRoyalOceanRacingClub’s means thatfast(orfast-ish)40-footerscantakepart race-information. website: http://caribbean600.rorc.org/200809294/ bring involved intheCaribbean600race,Iwouldliketo Caribbean SailingAssociation(CSA)ratedyachts new SouthernCircuitofRegattaswithabang. Sailing Festival(seeitemabove),willnodoubtendthe (SCBC) whichorganisesthebillfishtournamentsof the newlyformedSouthernCaribbeanBillfishCircuit held inCaboSanLucas,Mexico.Itisalsoincluded the winnerisinvitedtoatournamentofchampions ing tournamentintheIGFAOffshorechampionship— than the669-poundrecordfishcaughtin2006. an angler’schancesoflandingabluemarlinbigger attract morecompetitors,asthiswillgreatlyincrease use of80-poundline.Thisdevelopmentissureto versary, forthefirsttimetournamentwillallow billfish speciesinoneday. chance tocatchaGrandSlam—ofthree ably theonlytournamentwhereyouhaveagood The inaugural Caribbean 600, run by the UK-based The inauguralCaribbean600,runbytheUK-based The lowestCSAratingrequirementis0.870,which Liz Brookesreports:Inanefforttogetmore CSA BoatsWantedforCaribbean600Race For moreinformationseeadonpage12. As anaddedattractionforanglers,SIBTisaqualify- As amajornewchangetocelebratethe40thanni- Compass readers’attentiontothefollowing through 18th)andtheGrenada Sailing Series(January14th cuit memberstheCarriacou This event,followingitsfellowcir- from February10ththrough14th. Carnival Regattawilltakeplace www.sibtgrenada.com. viewing points). and FortGeorgewillbegood January 20th(theCarenage Bimini startat6:45AMon and outsidetheharbourfor Lagoon, throughtheCarenage Yacht ClubinSt.George’s parade fromtheGrenada come andseetheboats from theindividualtournaments. based ontheirbestthreescores with prizesfortheoverallwinner Martinique intoachampionship Barbados, StLuciaand Grenada, Trinidad&Tobago, The innovativenewTobago CarnivalRegatta! New CircuitFinale—Tobago For moreinformationvisit The publicisencouragedto na. Beyondtheracing,therewillbefireworks,afash- January 30ththroughFebruary3rd,willrequirestami- event, [email protected]. stop courseisatotalof605nauticalmiles. Barbuda beforereturningtofinishinAntigua.Thenon- and Desiradetoport,they’llsailbackupamarkoff heading southtoGuadeloupe.AftertakingGuadeloupe Barths tostarboard,thefleetwillcircleSt.Martinbefore —Continuedonnextpage galore. Betheretogetyourredcap! ion show,liveentertainment,partiesandmore Sailing Festival Afloat orashore,thefunneverstopsatGrenada

The PortLouisGrenadaSailingFestival,running PromisesTonsofFun Grenada SailingFestival For moreinformationonformingaCSAclassforthis For moreinformationseeadsonpages15,16and17. ONNE VAN DER WAL DER VAN ONNE NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 in Grenada, to raise funds Blue Crane After having hosted the Grenada Round-the-Island the Grenada Round-the-Island After having hosted for such an event, Le Phare Bleu lends itself perfectly the event will become a The organizers are sure that For more information Historic Yet Fresh: The Grenada Race The 7th Annual Grenada Round-the-Island The early versions of the Around Grenada Race A group of sailing enthusiasts revived this event in Races will be held out of Garfield’s Beach Bar on For more information named because the race will follow a course marked the race will follow a course named because which to the 12°N line of latitude as closely as possible the loca- in front of Petit Calivigny Bay, passes directly Bleu. tion of Le Phare that 2008, the organisers are confident Easter Race in in one races and boats centralised having two shorter charged races, will create a highly location between for excitement and provide much atmosphere of see. spectators to family and spectators, as there will be lots of fun for and workboat race with a Pirate’s Trail for children followed by a Junior taking place on the Saturday, on the Sunday. Free Sailing event and Dinghy Race offered for all participat- berthing in the marina will be weekend. ing vessels during the event and their families and will firm favourite among sailors people who can par- also be an attraction for local while enjoying the take in the fun and excitement facilities of Le Phare Bleu. visit www.southgrenadaregatta.com. Round-the-Island Race South Coast Yacht Club presented by the Grenada a single yacht race! The (GSCYC) will be more than event, scheduled to run from March 13th through 15th, will include, in addition to the main Round-the- Island Race on the 14th, a fun day on the 15th including a youth boating exhibition and a Bath Tub Derby, brought back by popular demand. started in 1969 and ran through the early 1970s. It started up again in 1990 and ran intermittently until 1999. February 2002, when it was held as a single race. The following year saw the same group of young people aim higher, with the revival of Grenada’s Easter Regatta and its famous feeder race, the Girl Pat Race from Trinidad, blended with the hardened sailors’ favorite — the round-the-island race. The GSCYC was born that same year as the organizing body and host for the new Grenada Round-the-Island Easter Regatta. For the past few years, these old sailing traditions, with a new twist, have challenged and enter- tained local, regional and some international yachtsmen. This year, the moving of the date forward from Easter eliminates conflict with the 28th Annual Bequia Easter Regatta (April 9th through 13th) and helps create a smoothly flowing calendar of boating events in Grenada. Grand Anse Beach, and the gala round-the-island after party will be at Bananas Restaurant at True Blue. This year, the Grenada Round-the-Island Race festivities will also include a tribute to the legacy of internationally known multihull designer and builder Peter Spronk, who built the famous for the first annual GSCYC youth sailing scholarship. visit www.aroundgrenada.com. 2009, will see the launch party for a

For more information Le Phare Bleu Adds New Event to Caribbean Calendar January 10th, Also on March 3rd will be early registration for partici- 3rd will be early registration Also on March Taking place from February 27th through March 1st, The event will comprise two main races: a “warm- for the Heineken Regatta (for spinnaker boats only) that takes place in a windward-leeward format. On March 6th, the three-day St. Maarten Heineken Regatta starts with the traditional around-the-island race. visit www.heinekenregatta.com. man crews in the Simpson Bay Lagoon. The match the Simpson Bay Lagoon. The man crews in open to six teams by invitation. racing will be are with match racing experience Interested persons an invitation from the Regatta asked to request at [email protected]. Organization pre-event Cup, the one-day pants in the Commodore’s brand-new sailing event: the South Grenada Regatta. the event will be a welcome addition to Grenada’s sailing calendar, falling neatly between the Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta (February 19th to 22nd) and the Grenada Round-the-Island Race (March 13th to 15th). The South Grenada Regatta will be centered around the Le Phare Bleu Marina & Holiday Resort on the south coast of Grenada, which provides an excellent location for the starts and finishes of the races. up” event — the Round Glovers Island Race — and then the more challenging “12 Degrees Cup”, so CARRIACOU Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 VHF: 16 [email protected] Do it yourself or labour available Mini - Marina Chandlery 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft Water New environmentally friendly haulout

Continued from previous page Continued from The race takes place in Jeanneau 20s with three- The Budget Marine Match Racing Cup will take This event will be sponsored by Budget Marine, St. Maarten Heineken Offers Match Racing St. Maarten Heineken Regatta the St. Maarten Heineken On March 3rd, TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUT ● ● ● ● ● ●

advantage of the presence of the many top-level sailors crewing the big boats that participate in the Heineken Regatta. These sailors will have the opportunity to win the US$5,000 first prize by coming a few days early. The rest of the early arrivals will have the opportunity to see some of the top world sailors in tight action very close to where the majority of the fleet will be anchored. which has been supporting the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta since its inception in a host of different forms, including pioneering the Commodores’ Cup. According to Budget Marine founder, Robbie Ferron, “Sponsoring match racing is a great opportunity for Budget Marine to promote new and exciting forms of racing to the Caribbean.” will, for the first time, run a match racing event just time, run a match racing will, for the first Regatta, 2009 St. Maarten Heineken before the actual to 8th, and offer prize money March 5th through the winners. — Match this! Handicap-free action will warm racers up for the 2009 St. Maarten Heineken NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 living aboard ing thenight.Alovelycouplewiththeiryoungchildren After aswim,wedinghiedovertoaskiftheywerestay- away fromtheminordernottointrudeontheirprivacy. two othersailboatsintheanchorage,soweanchored anchoring inthislonelyalbeitbeautifulbay.Therewere Venezuela, sowetoowerealittlenervousabout one getsparanoidwithallthetalkofpiratesin overnight stop.HavingspentnearlyeightweeksinPLC, usual foraleisurelydeparturetoournextanchorage. restaurant. Wehadanicecalmnight,upatdawnas ashore foracoldielaterintheafternoonatbar- around thecliffsinlovelyclearwater,beforegoing but wegotthejobdone.Afterlunchsnorkeled remove theoffendingdebris.Ittookacoupleofhours the waterwithmasks,snorkelsandscrapersto worms andbarnacles. PLC —I’venevercomeacrosssuchfastgrowthof the motor.Theremustbesomethinginwaterat crudded andwecouldonlymanagethreeknotswith nately becauseourpropellerwasobviouslyheavily fortunately isasafe,idealplacetostop.Isayfortu- Puerto LaCruz(PLC)isIslaChimanaSegunda,which and snorkel.Lobehold,onlyafewmilesfrom and trygetintosomewaterwhereonecanswim to getalittletedious—asusualafterfewweeks. although busy,butbynowmarinalifewasbeginning agreeable staff,andBahiaRedondaalsoispleasant ture. MarinaTechMarineOrienteisaniceplacewith varnishing, readying generator andheads,aswelldoingsomeinterior Mochima townisabustlingvillagewithrestaurants, but inanyoftheprecedingbayswaterwasgood. water isalittlemurky(itthreemilesfromthesea), There issomuchspacetoanchor!Nearthevillage cut deepinlandwithacharmingvillageatthebottom. the parkrangerscamepasttoaskifallwasokay. and bayssurroundingPuertoLaCruz.Inthemorning too. Itisascenicarea,asaresomanyoftheislands Occult Bay, according to our guidebook, is a good Occult Bay,accordingtoourguidebook,isagood Anchored safelyinChimanaSegunda,weentered We decidedtoheadoffforsomenearbyexploring, A We movedonearlyinthemorningtoMochima,abay was away,Ibusyservicingtheengine, returned toourboatinVenezuela.Whileshe fter afamilyvisitinEurope,mywife,Yvonne, DESTINATIONS Cavalo Mariño Chaser II said they were, so we did saidtheywere,sowedid foranimminentdepar- Chaser restaurant PuertoViejo,overlookingthebayand to asmalldock,thenwalkthestreetsanddinein able tojumpintothedinghyafterdark,motorashore gorgeous beachesnearby.Itwassuchatreattobe here bycartobetaxiedoutpirogueoneofthe es). Itisatouristvillageandmanylocalpeoplecome bars andsmallshopsmany byPhilChapman Venezuela — The BigCountry . Pricesweregoodtoo.Infact,throughoutour posadas (guesthous- —Continuedonnextpage there isroomenoughforjustoneboat. head ofthebay,tuckedbehindasmallislandwhere bays withintheMochimaarea.Weanchorednear dark arethestreetsadjacenttomarinasofPLC. across whereitisdeemedunsafetowalkaroundafter travels inVenezuela,theonlyplacewehavecome

The followingday,weexploredsomeoftheother HART & STONE & HART NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

ROBINSON number, I knew where he worked and number, I knew cedula Okay, I trusted him, and needless to say I didn’t see him, and needless to say Okay, I trusted —Continued on next page next them. them he could pay for when he received on security him because the marina him again. I trusted had his had his car registration. —Continued www.curacaomarine.com A different world. Just a short sail from the bustling marinas of Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela, the anchorage A different world. Just a short sail from the bustling marinas quiet at Chimana Segunda is calm, clean and (except on weekends) He and I went to a couple of parts shops to locate the to a couple of parts shops He and I went a phone num- No luck. He was given necessary items. asked for in PLC. He phoned them, ber of a supplier told they delivered and was apparently the parts to be I would, to him in a couple of hours. could be delivered them now, so to give him the money for though, have Safe dry storage with 24 hours security Hauling capacity 45 tons and Catamarans up to 33ft beam. is only four years old, so there is is only four years old, so there Chaser Curaçao Marine Curaçao New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment. Email: [email protected] Phone: +(599 9) 465 8936 Fax: 465 8941 Continued from previous page Continued from A man walked along the dock asking if I knew an However this year the price is 1.31Bfs (Bolivares It’s often said that cruising is about fixing boats inIt’s often said that cruising briefly last year; the We visited Marina Cumanagoto After a few nights in Mochima we decided to move in Mochima we decided After a few nights The water was clear and the snorkeling was good. clear and the snorkeling The water was - Long-term storage. AWLGRIP® indoor spray painting and many other services. We are located in the safe harbor of Willemstad. American needing some diesel engine repair work. American needing some diesel engine repair work. Having just arrived I couldn’t help, but his query sparked a conversation between us. The gentleman told me he was a mechanic, so I asked him to take a look at the generator. I didn’t want to take it apart myself and then find I needed a gasket or something that I couldn’t locate. He turned up on time the following morning, took things apart and damaged a fuel pipe in the process, saying, “Don’t worry, I can fix it”. Fuertes, the new currency) per foot, so with a 300-percent price increase it makes Marina Cumanagoto’s berthing more expensive than PLC. Nevertheless, the staff there is very pleasant and helpful. So, back to our Fischer Price — sorry, Fischer Panda — generator. It was throwing out a bit of black smoke, threatening to go the way the first one went, so before it did I thought I would take a look. exotic places. per night, but “you price was about 18,000 Bolivares slips are falling apart and gets what you pays for”: the sailing boats. The it’s full of apparently abandoned desired, having to wire electric leaves a little to be with no circuit breakers. directly to an exposed block, 230/240-Volt European Having said that, it’s the first Caribbean. Normally it’s supply I’ve come across in the give about 215 volts, which two 110-Volt supplies that can cause all sorts of problems. on. We motored out of the bay while being overtaken out of the bay while being on. We motored we sailed to water taxis. Once out, by many of the was just couple of nights. The intention Cumaná for a a couple of at the marina, check out to get some fuel and move on… marine stores, to do yet, but we have anot too much maintenance manages to give us hoursFischer Panda generator that it running correctly. It is ourof “pleasure” trying to keep first though was replacedsecond one (don’t laugh). The problem that nobody couldunder warranty because of a (and what do I know?) anddiagnose, apart from myself Fischer Panda finallya mechanic in Grenada whom because of the expe- listened to. I mention our generator rience we had in Marina Cumanagoto. We have seen octopus, turtles and many beautiful octopus, turtles and many We have seen fishes, right here. — NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 hours andtakemetothedieselinjectionspecialist he wouldarriveinCumanátocollectmeat0630 anything tohelpthecruisingcommunity.Andressaid knows Andres,ataxidriverandtourguidewhodoes Anyone whospendstimeinanyofthemarinasPLC would arrivethefollowingmorning. new mechanicgavemetheaddress,andtoldthemI I didn’twanttosailback,sodecidedgobycar.My place toreconditiontheinjectorwasinPuertoLaCruz. mechanic andhegotthenewpipemade,butonly more timeinthemarina. reconditioned injector,whichwouldmeanspending without themakingofanewfuelpipeandor a non-functioninggeneratorthatcouldn’tbefixed with myselfforlettinghimdowhathedid.NowIhad — I decidedtophoneAndresHernandezinPLC. The Marinastaffwasveryhelpful.Theysentanew It wasn’tthemoneysomuch,butIwasannoyed Continued frompreviouspage the GulfofCariaco Right: Oneofourescortsup my transportbacktoMarinaCumanagoto.Iwas Cumaná collect theinjector,andthenAndresdrovemeto I hadtimeforbreakfastandreturnedtothestore problem. Withinanhourallwascomplete.Andresand outside town. We arrivedandwithAndres’shelpexplainedthe por puesto (collectivetaxi)terminaltoarrange to Cariaco! cruisers’ market-daybus Left: Allaboardthe —Continuedonnextpage Village intheGulfofCariaco. before slidingoutofourslip,then,offtoMedregal sod frombeingtakenin. trusted. Maybethiswillhelppreventsomeotherpoor them nottoemploythefirstmechanic,ashecan’tbe also written(inSpanish)toCumanagoto,advising made a trusting nature.Ihave,bytheway,beentopolice, coincidental chatwithashadymechanicandmy the followingday.Butwhatanightmare,causedby and AndresfromPLC,wewereabletobeunderway came thefollowingmorningtocompleterepair. aboard We carefullydisconnectedthesoddenelectricsupply So thankstoCaesar,theCumanagotomechanic, Chaser denuncia bylunchtimeandthenewmechanic

andgiventhemallthedetails.I’ve CHAPMAN (ALL) CHAPMAN NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

capybaras I am surprised how few sailboats there are in the Just along the beach is a small house called beach is a small house Just along the house is a Village and Sven’s In between Medregal etables, milk, flour, etcetera. Walking along the road etables, milk, flour, etcetera. Walking along the road or off road is interesting, too. Monkeys and anteaters have been seen here, as well as small deer, (giant rodents), and a vast array of birdlife. area. Porlamar, Margarita, always has between 60 and 100 boats in the anchorage, whereas here there are only about 20 on a good day. Yes, the shopping is better in Margarita, but this area is beautiful. —Continued on next page to go, whether it is shopping or sightseeing. to go, whether are former and his partner, Eva, CocoBongo. Sven opened a piz- have sold their boat and cruisers. They Sundays and garden of their house. zeria in the offering cold the evenings they open, Thursdays are away at a pizza to eat there or take beers and good from Medregal afford. You can walk there price you can your dinghy to Sven’s dock. Village or take basic foodstuffs. It is open small kiosk that sells some can buy eggs, some veg- seven days a week. Here you Above: We enjoyed spotting critters such as this puffer Above: We enjoyed spotting critters such as this puffer fish while snorkeling in clear water at Chimana Segunda and Mochima Left: The haul-out at Medregal Village in the Gulf of Cariaco on-site meeting please contact our Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator, Danny Donelan on-site meeting please contact our Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator, on +1(473) 435 7432 or email [email protected] Limited availability the advantages of slip ownership, please contact our International Sales Manager, the advantages of slip ownership, please contact our International Sales Manager, Anna Tabone, on +356 2248 0000 or email [email protected] Anna Tabone, Slips are available for sale or rental. For a private consultation to discuss To fully appreciate this rare opportunity, we highly recommend a visit. To arrange an we highly recommend a visit. To fully appreciate this rare opportunity, To The haul-out facility has been running now for just The haul-out facility has been into the sea and the travel-lift drives into the water into the sea and the travel-lift drives into the water I until it reaches the necessary depth for your vessel. can recommend Jean Marc and his staff; they do a good professional job getting the boats in and out of the water. Nothing is too much trouble for him, and he’ll also arrange transport to wherever you would like hotel, run by a Belgian man, Jean Marc, and his wife,a Belgian man, Jean Marc, hotel, run by and restau- cruisers. There is a bar Yoleda, welcomes pool, table tennis tables, and a swimming rant, pool and on an honour us to use. The bar is run all available for bill when you Marc will make up your system, and Jean the need of a system and avoids ask. It’s a convenient lead to Jean However this does permanent barman. I’m advantage of. (Some nationalities, Marc being taken large bill and than others, running up a told, are worse the early hours without settling.)disappearing in There is a concrete ramp over a year and works well. WEST INDIES Port Louis, Grenada of all sizes up to 90m available right now for sale or rental. powder-white beaches, rainforests, spice plantations and a calendar packed with rainforests, spice plantations and a calendar packed with beaches, powder-white regattas and festivals. Grenada is also the gateway to the Grenadines, one of the hotels, villas, restaurants and bars, plus some of the ﬁnest boutiques and shops in the region. ITALY | MALTA | TURKEY | | MALTA ITALY Now there’s another good reason to visit. There are 50 new fully serviced slips for yachtsNow there’s Nowhere extends a warmer can expect welcome than Port Louis, Grenada. Visitors Sitting alongside the marina, the forthcoming Port will include luxury Louis Maritime Village world’s most beautiful and unspoilt cruising areas. world’s A warmawaits you and your yacht at Port welcome Louis Continued from previous page Continued from Medregal Village is a marina/posada complex with Laguna Grande is a spectacular bay, deeply indent- We passed some beautiful landscapes and attractive beautiful landscapes and We passed some haul-out facilities. There is a nice anchorage, and the ed with a desert landscape, but we only looked in. ed with a desert landscape, but we only looked in. We’ll stop here before heading out to Isla Coche and Margarita on our way out of the Gulf. anchorages, and were escorted by so many dolphins it were escorted by so many anchorages, and in Laguna We decided to stop only was unbelievable. small fishing little anchorage with a Chica, a charming and a tiny head. There is a huge bar village at its than wor- more beer drinkers church, so obviously a beer and God. We decided to go for shipers, thank a good eve- some. They did. We had prayed they had anchorage, the sun go down over the ning watching the bar and chickens pick- goats running in and out of ing up the scraps. — OCTOBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 & Boatyard MMarina FFlynn EErrol atFaceDock Depth upto25Feet Protected Harbor Duty FreeZoneinMarina PartsSpecialists Engine and Paint Sheds 24 HourFuel 100 TonTravel-lift Full ServiceMarina PORT ANTONIO,JAMAICA l r [email protected] WWW.ERROLFLYNNMARINA.COM

a 876-715-6044 or876-993-3209 y B r r CONTACT DALEWESTIN Out oftheWaterStorage n o o VHF CHANNEL16/9 i n a l n up to95feet

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a to600’Alongside Mega-Yacht Docking Free Wi-FiAlways Bar &Grille Restaurant, Beach Gated Marina 24 HourSecurity Downtown Nightlife Open AirMarket r 1 Min.byFoot d November, thenwe’lldosomemoreinland exploring. the Venezuelancoast,butwillreturnto Medregal forahaul-outandbottompaintin up anddownthecoast.Plentyofrum loudmusicisinvolved. of Cachicatostakepart,decoratingtheir boatswithflagsandballoonsparading erman’s fiestaoftheVirginDelValle.Many ofthefishingboatsfromlocalvillage there istoomuchtoseeinoneday. lush scenery.Theyshowedussomeof the sights,butwehavetoreturnagain— tourists. JeanMarcandYoledatookusto Carúpanobycarthroughsomestunning, this partofVenezuela,soweforeignersarejusttreatedasvisitorsandnotwealthy town center,withgoodshopsandfriendlypeople.Tourismhasn’treallyarrived in friendliest we’veencountered. through VenezuelaIhavefounditasafeplacetobeandthepeoplesomeof the I haveonlyscratchedthesurface.AsI’vesaidbefore,inmyexperiencetraveling safe toleaveandreturn“civilization”.Thereissomuchseehere—Yvonne and Puerto LaCruz.TheylistentorumorsandwaitimpatientlyforNovember,when it is Venezuela reluctantly,justtoescapethehurricaneseason,anddon’tgooutside something.” Shehandedthemacrochetedtoiletseatcoverandrollholder. same oldgrannywasaboard.Shesaid,“Youhavealovelyboat,butitismissing Saltberg 7 use thetoilet.Thegrannyremarkedhowlovelyboatwas.Threedayslater, fisherfolk aboardforabeer.Theoldgrannywiththefishermenaskedifshecould by afishingboatwithfamilyaboard.Afterbriefconversation,theyinvited the they wereanchoredattheeasternendofGolfCariaco,approached them totheownersinmorning,butreportshadalreadygonein. occasion aFrenchboatfoundanother.Theyhadbeenreported“stolen”.Wereturned painter hadbrokenorwasn’ttiedproperly.Icollectedoneofthese,andonanother unlocked —butI’vealsoseendinghiesdriftingawayfromthedockwhenaworn report whatreallyhappened. But ofcoursenowit’sintherecordbooksas“anotherVenezuelanpirateattack”. anchored yachts—that’swhattheydoandwesawthemitonthisoccasion. anchorage. Theseguyshadlaidtheirnetthepreviousafternoonbetween tinued topulltheirnet,bynowofcourseunderfloodlightsfromeveryyachtinthe started theiroutboardtogetfartheraway,draggingnetwiththem.Theycon- that wasaploytoavoiddetection,sohefiredflareatthemandtheyquickly metres away.Thefishermenwerepullinganet,butourparanoidfriendconsidered age. Thenervousownersawapirogueclosetothesternofhisboat,maybeten — meal inNewYork,youdon’tsay,“I’mnoteatingouttheStatesagain”. as awhole,thishugecountry,getstarredwiththesamebrush.Ifyouhavebad believe thatmuchofVenezuelaisasafeplacetobe,butthereputation because ofafewbadareasthatforsomereasoncannotbecontrolled.Idostill the BocadelRioareainMargarita.It’sashame,though,totarnishwholecountry of thePeninsulaParia.Araya,too,isknowntobeproblematicasRobledaland places renownedforproblems,suchasPuertoSantosandmuchofthenorthcoast too manyandnobodywouldwishthattohappenanybody.Ofcoursethereare ings andtheftsaroundthenortheastcoastofVenezuelaMargarita,whichisfar jeopardize theirlivelihoodandgoodreputation. free environment;theywouldn’twanttoallowanybadelementsin,whichcould the areaarenowoffscene.Ofcourse,localpeoplethemselveswantatheft- which theywillbesenttojail.So,itwouldappeartheonlythievesthatoperatedin they werecartedofftohospital,whereIamtoldaremakingafullrecovery,after by localfishermanwhoknewthemforwhattheywere.WhentheGuardiaarrived needing somehospitalattention,walkedintothevillage,wheretheywererecognized the pirogueburninganddinghydrifting(whichwaslaterrecovered).Thethieves, jumped overboardbecausetheythemselveswereonfire.Theyswamashore,leaving suppose itrupturedthefuellinebecauseboatburstintoflames.Thecrew dinghy. Heshoutedandthenfiredaflare,whichlandedbeautifullyinthepirogue.I sailboat. Theownerheardanoiseandsawpiroguesilentlydriftingawaywithhis two monthsago.Acoupleofthievesstoleadinghythatwastiedtotheback ago”. Howstoriesspiral!Weinformedhimtherehadactuallybeenonlyonerobbery the cruiserstolockourdinghy.Hetoldustherehadbeen“tworobberiesonemonth stream pastourheads.I’mgladtheyhadgoodsonar—missedusbyinches. of ScarletIbisreturntotheirnestsand,asdarknessfell,watchthefish-eatingbats eastern endatMuelledeCariaco.Herewedinghieduptherivertoseehundreds We anchoredforafewdaysoffprettyvillagecalledGuacarapoandthenatthefar walk thestreets,takeabeeratlocalbars,andvisitmarketsshops. side towithlotsofsafeandattractiveanchorages.Youcangoashorebydinghy, 3:00 were almostfictitious.Onesuchreported“attemptedboarding”wasinMargarita.At Noonsite andinthe geration ofthetruth.Infact,acoupleincidentsthatweredescribedon Boat paradepartiesarepartofVenezuela’sannualVirgendelVallefiesta Chaser We’re backnow(September)intheMedregal Villageanchoragetowitnessthefish- Carúpano isatownnottobemissed.Ithasbeautifulbeachesandlovely,clean I lovetohearthesestories,buttheyrarelygetmentioned.Manypeoplecome to On theotherhand,newfriendofours,aboard I knowdinghiesarestoleninMargarita—it’snotagoodplacetoleavedinghy Another “armedboarding”wasalsonotquiteasreported,butIwouldn’twantto On thesubjectofsecuritytherehave,asweknow,beenoneortwoseriousboard- No worrieshereaboutsecurity,butatoneanchoragewewereadvisedbyof The GulfofCariacohasgreatsailingwhereyoucantravelupanddownortack I knowforafactthatsomeofthereportedincidentswere,shallwesay,anexag- Continued frompreviouspage AM acallonVHF72reportedfishermentryingtoboardvesselintheanchor- willtakeoffagaininafewdaysandexplore someoftheotherdelights wasapproachedbyapirogue—no,notpirates,butfishermen,andthe Caribbean Compass weresoexaggeratedbythewriters,they Saltberg 7 , toldusthatoncewhen NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23

O'BRIEN (local name for what piñero Much has been written about the haul-out facilities Much has been written about written about Laguna As well, much has been was behind the wall One of the small areas we found which is on the northern shore and well protected the northern shore and well which is on Real is a very westerly winds. Puerto against all but only a few small fishing village with picturesque except for a no evidence of vehicles homes. We saw everything leaving us to think that lone motorcycle, required is brought in via islands further north). We is known as a pirogue in at 10° 34.17’ North, and anchored in 17 feet of water a peaceful night despite 64° 06.864’ West, spending winds howling out in the Golfo. and Medregal Village. in the Golfo, both Navimca place, called CocoBongo, However, there is a new pizza Village anchorage. just 250 yards east of the Medregal have taken up resi- Sven and Eva, a Swedish couple, built a large wood-fired dence on the shore and have pizzas on Thursday and pizza oven. They sell excellent Sunday evenings. lagoon containing many Grande, which is a huge colored mountains sur- anchorages, and with bright Laguna Grande, how- rounding it. We enjoy visiting anchoring in the much ever, we actually prefer are isolated or at least smaller bays, many of which very quiet. at the Navimca haul-out facility. There is room for a few vessels but it could get crowded if more than five or six tried to anchor. Despite what some of the cruising guides show, getting into the outer break-wall area is a bit tricky. We first kept the huge round outer buoy to our starboard side, then the same for a couple of small floats with a tiny red flag. The next items that we kept to our starboard side were two 2-liter soda bot- tles, partially submerged. —Continued on next page Call us on (284) 494 2830 for a dealer near you. us on (284) 494 2830 for Call

CRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS not as well protected as others Right: Punta Tinajones features an M65 M92B M115T M135 M225Ti M265Ti M300Ti We recently had a blow of 35 knots from the east as We recently had a blow of 35 unspoiled landscape, but the anchorage is sails available from one shore to the opposite shore, or from one shore to the opposite sails available In some southern or northern shores. along either the British Virgin much like cruising the respects it’s the sailing is the islands are visible and Islands, where open sea, being shorter than in the easy. Fetches Waves can still build resulting waves are also reduced. manageable. quickly in squalls but are more the Golfo. Waves soon we rounded the point into headed for Puerto Real, became a high chop so we Above: A salt-water ‘lake’ with good sailing and plenty of places to drop the hook while while by Roland O’Brien Sabre M135 recent evening my wife and I recent evening the cockpit of our were sitting in Kathleen S/V M’Lady

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Generating 135 hp at a modest 2600 rpmGenerating 135 hp at in a 6 liter engine ensures in a bullet proofa long life package. QUIET CLEAN POWER QUIET CLEAN The Golfo de Cariaco is very much like a large inland Don’t get me wrong; we don’t like lightning storms One lake, with many of the same positives. It’s about 35 lake, with many of the same positives. It’s about 35 miles in length and between five and eight miles wide, which means there are many day sails or even half-day any better than anyone else. However, we’ve found too any better than anyone else. However, we’ve found too many really good reasons to spend time cruising the Golfo de Cariaco. The Golfo is entirely south of the insurance “box,” which means that nearly all the insurance companies provide coverage for a named storm, should one hit the area. In fact, many of the vessels in Margarita would logically run to Laguna Grande, in the Golfo, if a tropical storm or worse should approach Margarita. anchored in Porlamar, Isla de Margarita. Lightning Porlamar, Isla de Margarita. anchored in horizon. As across the southern storms were scattered in the Golfo de Cariaco we we recently spent some time come from the main- know that many of these storms continue northward to the land, cross the Golfo, then Despite that fact, we’re northern edge of Venezuela. the Golfo. soon headed right back into NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24

CONNELLY-LYNN there theafternoonwestoppedin.Wehadjustcovered bay, isexactlythat.Weweretheonlyvesselanchored the Golfo,SenaLarga,whichmeansdeeplyindented to goshorehereifonedesired,althoughwedidn’t. 26.382’ North,64°02.272’West.Itappearedpossible them problems.Weanchoredin23feetofwaterat10° the fishermen’snettingproceduressoasnottocause anchoring hereatonetimeandmustbewaryof not morethanthreeorfourvesselsshouldattempt shore, whichthepelicanshavetakenover.Probably old steel-framedvessellyingwreckedagainstthe erboat dockedatonehome.There’saskeletonofan fishermen, althoughwedidseeasailboatandpow- Perhaps sixoreighthomessurroundthisbay,mostly Fortunately, thenoisediesdowninlateevening. highway withthemanybuses,trucks,andtrailers. although it’snoisyduetoitsproximitythecoastal sheltered, exceptperhapsfromnortherlywinds, the Navimcafacilitytostreetandcatchataxi. for thebilgepump.Wefounditquiteeasytogothrough visit oneofthechandleriesinCumanáforanewfloat feet ofwater.Westoppedherebecauseweneededto anchored at10°27.2’North,and63°56.4’West,in7.9 you wereintendingtogothehaul-outarea.We it waspossibletoanchororfollowsomesmallfloatsif — Moving eastwardagain,alongthesoutherlyshoreof Moving abiteastward,Careneroistinybay,well To ourportsidewasapieceofwhitefoam.Afterthat Continued frompreviouspage Yacht at Rest

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RELIABLE FREQUENTSCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENTSCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENTSCHEDULES ping townintheeast.Theviewhereisnotspectacular over tothevillageofCariaco,whichismainshop- puesto anchored hereasit’sonlyafewBolivarstoride of Guacarapo.Usuallytherewillbeafewcruisers of theGolfodeCariacoislocatedadjacenttovillage 63° 53.293’West. soon inmorethan50feet,at10°33.191’North,and However, wedroppedtheanchorin26feet,andwere we’d passthatoneupforbetter-protectedanchorages. passing bythroughoutthenight.Givenenoughtime, we like,andexposedtoaconstantflowof point, turnedouttobenotwellprotected,deeperthan was onthenorthernshore.Tinajones,fromourview- water at10°27.2’Northand63°56.4’West. enough tobeeasilyheard.Weanchoredin18feetof is anotheranchoragewherethehighwayclose public beachandpicnicarea,includingshelters.This tion isurged.AttheheadofSenaLarga,there’sa be floatingintheGolfofornextdayortwo,socau- after theseheavyrains,chunksofwoodandrefusewill within afewhours,butit’sworthmentioningthat milk andrefusefromtherun-off.Thebayflushedout the bay.Soon,wewerefloatinginaseaofchocolate of thebaywewatchedmudrundownhillsidesinto mid-to-late afternoonstormhit.Sittinginthemiddle the mainsailandputsunshadeup,whenatypical A niceanchorageonthenorthernshore(easternend) One smallanchoragewewishwe’dnotstoppedat

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RATES COMPETITIVE DESTINATIONS UNIQUE OPTTV AE RATES COMPETITIVE DESTINATIONS UNIQUE RATES COMPETITIVE DESTINATIONS UNIQUE por MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM Port Everglades St. Thomas Freeport while spendingthesummerinVenezuela? and relaxingintheevening.Whatmorecouldweask early intheafternoon(watchhorizonforsqualls), reach (believeit),betweenthesmallbays,anchoring in one occasionhavebefriendedcruisersagainstoutsiders in theGolfoappreciateusascruisersandonmorethan all subjecttofurtherexploration.We’vefoundthelocals and participated. non-threatening manner,sowetookitingoodhumor piñeros prised ifyoungstersfromthevillagerowoutinsmall North, 63°degrees,40.077’West.Oh,don’tbesur- Cariaco. Weanchoredin17feetofwaterat10°28.591’ up thehillandit’sonlyashort trip extremelyworthwhile.There’sagasolinestation Beautiful junglesoundsandallthewildlifemakethis board anddriftedbackoutusingjustpaddlesoroars. stream foramileormoreandthenshutofftheout- runs intoLagunadeCariaco.We’vemotoredupthe the dinghytosmallstreamthatfeedsbay,and This anchorageisalsocloseenoughtobeabletake early morningorduskdriftwiththedinghyisbetter. You canseethemfromtheanchoragebuteitheran kingfishers, egrets,andotheraquaticbirdsabound. fishermen’s dock.Additionally,scarletibis,parrots, fairly largevillageiseasyaftertakingthedinghyto with roomformanyvessels.Accesstothestreetinthis Golfo isMuelledeCariaco.Thisawideanchorage, 29.787’ North,63°44.012’West. storm’s passing.Weanchoredin16feetofwaterat10° and asternlinetosomemangrovesawaitthe some tyingtodocks,whileothersusedabowanchor watching the came primarilyfromthesouthwest.Itwasinteresting a steadywindof35knotsforatleastanhour,which strong blowofamaximumwindspeed45knots,and no soonercompletedourcoveringswhenwegotavery walk aroundthepoint.Again,uponourarrivalwehad good placetogoashoreandstretchyourlegswitha (bread), houses, andafewsmallkiosksforstaplessuchas as thewaterfronthasarowoftypicalsmalltin-roofed Below: ThefishingvillageattinyCarenerobay approach’ run toLagunaGrandeifatropicalstormshould Left: ‘ManyofthevesselsinMargaritawouldlogically W There are many more small anchorages in the Golfo, There aremanymoresmallanchoragesintheGolfo, A pleasantstopatthefarsoutheasternendof htfthftill ifd f ti ll l i t f h t f t th Newport piñeros ORLD Martinique BOOK NOW! ➔ toaskforcandyorcookies.Theydoitina papas

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O'BRIEN NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 . Gavin 1421: The VHF CH 16 phone 473 444 2400 www.lepharebleu.com [email protected] As we navigated the channel to to As we navigated the channel We snorkeled over it, following , is a landmark as it juts out of There is excellent snorkeling and div- In conclusion, even though Bimini is Bimini is home to several phenomena The Bimini Road is another phenome- what looked like huge stone rectangles laid out as if for vehicles to travel on. It does indeed look like a road. ing all around Bimini. A shipwreck, the Sapona the shallow waters. Fish abound, as do corals and other sea life growing on the rusty remains. tiny, it has a number of attractions to keep one busy for several days. It is a delightful place to visit. Menzies believes the “road” was created by shipwrecked Chinese voyagers. Still others claim the limestone blocks, many ten to 15 feet long, are the result of dredging, tidal fluctuations, or sea des- posits. Today they are called “The Bimini Road.” Year China Discovered America cisely aligned rectangular limestone cisely aligned rectangular limestone blocks was discovered in about 20 feet of water off Paradise Point on North Bimini by the Honorary Curator of the Miami Science Musem while diving. Historian Dr. David Zink believes the stones were placed by humans. Author of of nature. The Fountain of Youth for which Ponce de León searched is rumored to exist on South Bimini. Natives told de León of a land called “Beemeenee” where the fountain could be found. Today, on the road leading to the airport, there is a small freshwater well with a plaque to commemorate the Fountain of Youth non that has attracted much attention. In the 1930s, American clairvoyant Edgar Cayce predicted that remnants of the Lost City of Atlantis would be found off the coast of Bimini in 1968 or 1969. In 1969, almost a half-mile stretch of pre- As we neared Bimini, a seagull followed us for a followed us for a As we neared Bimini, a seagull parrot outside, near the At Weech’s office there is a drove around the island. We rented a golf cart and the dock, a seaplane came charging toward us. The charging toward us. The the dock, a seaplane came for Chalk’s airline channel was also the “runway” last year, Chalk’s no lon- (owing to a tragic accident in Alice Town and ger flies). We docked at Weech’s building that houses easily found the big pink Customs and Immigration. nine knots at times, with the engine at 3000 rpms. times, with the engine at nine knots at froth bor- behind us, leaving a foamy Our wake trailed on either white-capped wavelets dered by diagonal, decreasing in one following the other, side, cresting, dissipated altogether. size until they might have something for minute or two, hoping we learn that boats are pos- him. Funny how sea birds sible sources of food. and talks. A friend bathrooms/showers. He whistles as she undressed, she was in the shower and, just looked around to see if the heard this wolf whistle and man was watching. It door had come ajar and some was the parrot! on the Atlantic side. Conch There is a gorgeous beach the Biminis and abound in the waters surrounding with the shells and drive- many fences are decorated ways lined with them.

MILMAN (3)

Many fences are decorated Little salt crystals - ﬁne dining on a unique, historical lighthouse ship - breakfast, lunch and dinner served all day at the Pool-Bar Restaurant Restaurants Petite Calivigny Bay, St. George‘s, Grenada W.I., POS 12°00‘11N / 61°43‘29W POS 12°00‘11N W.I., Grenada George‘s, St. Petite Calivigny Bay, As we navigated the channel to the dock, a seaplane came As we navigated the channel to the dock, a seaplane came We were getting a lift from the current, doing over We were getting a lift from with conch shells charging toward us’ Below: Golf carts are available for rent. Top: Sunset on the Great Bahama Bank Above: ‘ sands of tiny tin men, marching across the ocean water,sands of tiny tin men, marching waves, their armor glint- trudging up and down the hilly crest. ing in the sun as they top each glinted in the sun where water had splashed on theglinted in the sun where water into a million jaggeddeck. And the sun was refracted of the sea. shards on the choppy surfaces The Compleat Angler, a

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Marina & Yachtclub Marina & - 60 slips for boats up to 120 feet and 15 draft - Customs & Immigration Water, (50/60Hz), - 230/110V Wi-Fi Webcam, - Showers, Lounge, Pool, Restaurants, Bar - Fuel & Gasoline - Minimarket, Car Rental, Laundry - Hurricane Moorings THE BAHAMAS – BIMINI BAHAMAS THE North Bimini contains the community of Alice Town, South Bimini has a small airport and a quiet resi- B As the sun rose higher, it danced on the riplets of the We saw pilot whales off, oddly enough, Whale Point. Aboard a collection of small shops, some restaurants, a museum, and the Customs house. Probably the most famous establishment was dential community. It is home to the Bimini Biological dential community. It is home to the Bimini Biological Field Station (www.miami.edu/sharklab), known local- ly as the SharkLab, famous for its research on marine ecosystems, especially those supporting various species of sharks. Bimini, the Biminis are the westernmost islands of theBimini, the Biminis are the 60 miles east of Miami,Bahamas. They are about Taino word meaningFlorida. Bimini is a Native American = mother, mini = waters).Mother of Many Waters (Bibi by Jacqui Milman by Jacqui wind, like thousands of tiny, twinkling stars splashing in joyous abandon before they have to return to the sky on night duty, then disappear as the surface smoothes to a mirror-like quality again; like hundreds of thou- Their shiny backs bumped out of the water, glistening Their shiny backs bumped out of the water, glistening like onyx. The sun was directly behind us, casting a silver swath that made it look like our wake was gilded and stretching all the way to the horizon. cally clear — our depth gauge registered over 90 feet cally clear — our depth gauge registered over 90 feet and you could count the starfish on the bottom! The silky surface was stunningly beautiful. The flying fish made zipper trails on the surface when they took off. They would go several yards, sometimes gaining even more distance by touching the water and then launch- ing themselves again, like skipping stones. Something big jumped and flying fish went in every direction, like spokes in a 180-degree arc. (a power catamaran made by Endeavour in Clearwater, (a power catamaran made by Endeavour in Clearwater, Florida), my husband Chris and I traveled to Bimini from Nassau, crossing the Great Bahama Bank. There was NO wind, so it was delightful motoring, the water slick calm — an absolutely perfect day for traveling. The sun wasn’t up high enough at first to give the water its greens, blues and aquas yet. It was a continuous gray sheen that ran seamlessly into the gray sky, as though there were no horizon, just an endless sea that goes into forever. modest three-story hotel made famous by Ernest modest three-story hotel made famous by Ernest Hemingway, who often frequented the establishment. It became a major tourist attraction, housing much Hemingway memorabilia. Alas, a fire in January of 2006 destroyed the building. NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 December 31statStoreBay.‘IhadforgottenthatTobagoissopretty’º and ahneverexperienceanythingso.” see awavelikethat,isyearsItravelingupanddown “Yes, eighteenfeet”.“Gawd,Iwouldgiveanythingto er askedoneofthestandingpassengers,“Yuhseeit?” us knowthatthe“cap”hadhitamanhole.Yetanoth- sengers backdownonhisseat,onecommentatorlet rock, hurlingoneofthethreeorfourstandingpas- When amonsterofswellgavethevesselsevere slowing downatallall...hemashingtheXfuhso”. low passengers.“Eh,boyhegoingthrough…eh the voyageviabestofsurroundsound—ourfel- tained bytheknot-by-knotcommentarythroughout of brew! pewter hue;andmypoor,dizzyheadwasnotbecause did notreflectinthechoppywater,whichretainedits one mid-morninginlateDecember.Butthebluesky T Sitting inthefrontrowatbow,wewereenter- New Experiences Tobago Revisited: by J.Wynner and OldYear’s of Spain,Trinidad,toScarborough,Tobago, shone forour he scarcesunoftheprecedingweekfinally Night Delight TT Spirit ferrycrossingfromPort facing Customs. through Immigration,waitingforyourluggageand having togettransportyourdestination,ofgoing bothersome necessitiesofdisembarkingandthen all overseastravelcouldbethesame—without in yourcaranddriveofftheboat.Hallelujah!Ifonly busy, bubblyScarborough.Whatdelight!Justjump decade ago. my lastvisittothesisterisle,whichwaswellovera hilltop buildingspleasurablyrekindledmemoriesof Scarborough Harbourframedbyitsbrightlypainted breathtaking: theAtlanticshorewithpicturesque Tobago issopretty.Theviewfromthevesselwas remembered. Icouldnotbelievehadforgottenthat Tobago lowlands.TherearemorebuildingsthanI ing directlyintoaluminouslightradiatingfromthe wooded coastlineofTrinidadbehind,andwe’relook- we’re sailinginbluewater.Weleavethemountainous, And itfeltsoincredibledrivingofftheferryinto At last!Wecrossadull-lookingpatchofseaand ALL ASHORE… —Continuedonnextpage ourselves backoutalongsidetheGrafton. thoroughfare, surprisedme.Makingthe loopwefind many hotelsandvillas,hiddenawayfrom themain deal ofsunlight,creatinganeerieambience. The foliage oneithersideoftheroadblocking outagood turn seawardsattheStoneHavenBay road,thick there mustbealesschoked-upvenuein Tobago! scene fortheApriljazzfestival.Hmmm… Iamsure island. WecheckoutPlymouthvillage,sizingupthe and crisp.Butshortlyweareontheothersideof building withitssprawlinglawn,everywheresoclean side ofus,aswelltheimpressivesecondaryschool Plymouth, takinginthewideopenspacesoneither coastal roads.Facingwest,wedriveacrossto er firstforme,allpreviousvisitsbeingconfinedto Hall andventureintotheinteriorofTobago—anoth- Claude NoelHighwayasfartheturningintoMason places inTobago.LeavingBacolet,wegettothe I amenthralledrediscoveringoneofmyfavourite It looksinviting,andsoonweareexploringthearea. lies beforeus,blanketedinagreenvariegatedcloak. opposite directionanupscaleresidentialarea,Bacolet, light firstnoticedfromthebowof we hadjusttraveled,stillbathedinthatshimmering lookout, welookbackatthelowlandsareafromwhere museum atthefortisclosedonSundays,but trees tothefortaboveScarboroughhospital.The climb thewindingroadadornedbystatelyflamboyant Lowlands throughasleepyScarboroughandthenwe morning wetakeadrivealongthecoastalroadin That wasSaturdaynightfever? ined. Myeyescouldnotbelievewhatmyearsheard. a soundsystem.Thiswasthegreatfétewehadimag- surprise, wediscoverfiveorsixpersonssittingaround other sideofthedesertedeatingareawhere,toour beach. Wecontinuewalkingtowardsthesoundon ers arearound.Strollingon,wenoticeacoupleonthe apartments’ backgateneartheStoreBaycarpark. length ofthecompound,weexitthroughJohnson’s Road togetMt.Irvine,orgoBacolet. Scarborough, whethertobranchoffontheShirvan Crown PointAirportendandgoingtowards the drivewasalwaysreversed,startingfrom Road tolivelyCrownPointwherewestayed.Previously the bucolicClaudeNoelHighway,ontoMilford me. TheotherwasdrivingfromScarboroughalong me hastoincludetheferryride—firsttimefor

Leaving PlymouthwepasstheGrafton Hoteland Next morning,sightseeingSunday,aroundmid- By thistimeitisaroundteno’clock.Oneortwolim- But thistimeourdestinationisCrownPoint.You One ofthemostnotabledifferencesthistripfor WYNNER the source.Crossingentire group, sowedecidetotrackdown ity getsthebetterofusladiesin taking place“nextdoor”,ourcurios- Thinking somecarnival-sizeféteis viewed showsnosignofactivity. everything in-betweencouldbe from wheretheairporttowerand look throughthekitchenwindow couple fromanearbyapartment.A ing room,shootingthebreezewitha lowing nightwhilesittinginourliv- which suddenlystartledusthefol- Song’, sounliketheloudSocamusic vocalist singing‘TheChristmas being held. small gardenweddingreceptionis bench nearestthepoolareawherea atmosphere, andfinallysettlingona roam thegrounds,enjoying the dizzinessandtrytosleepitoff. from thetripsoItakeatabletfor water. Butmyheadisstillwoozy smiles andofCaribbeanblue greets you,and,lookingouttosea, beautiful viewoftheCocoReefHotel Bay. Acrossthesandybeach,a take youdowntothepopularStore steps withplantation-stylerailings of thehighrockyterrain,fromwhich burnt grass. common fowlsscratchinthesun- of thecompound,ahalfdozenorso apartments borderingthestreetside the startlingblue.Infrontof ments onlushlawns,complement den layoutofcabanasandapart- the eye.Thegrounds,withtheirgar- blue glareofseaandskythatmeets head poolwards,youblinkfromthe you leavethereceptionareaand turn intothehotel’sdriveway.As Store BayRoad,longbeforeyou spot thetowerofhotelfrom I strainmyearstohearafemale Early intheeveningIemergeand Below us,wavespoundthefacing TT Spirit . Inthe NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

FIRES CHAPMAN Continued from previous page Continued from And all too soon it is time to board the ferry again. December 31st finds us in bliss on Pigeon finds us in bliss on Pigeon December 31st We head for home, but at the road to Mt. but at the road to Mt. We head for home, and glasses in hand towards Store Bay. Across the beach, a huge bonfire glistening on the grounds of Coco Reef gives off a golden glow, creating a tropical wonderland, the fireworks above lighting up the sky. We look on in awe. When Coco Reef’s display is through it is Crown Point’s turn to dazzle, and then for the final curtain call, the yachts in the bay add their presentation to the beauty of the night. Point Beach. We enjoy our time in the sea We enjoy our time in the Point Beach. that evening we take our and sun. Later service, out to last meal for the year, plate and eat there the patio table in the garden yard fowls to — by now we don’t have the asleep. We are contend with, they are long outdoor dining. not the only ones thinking Nearer the We see lots of set tables outside. overlooking hotel, on the lawn at the edge a large din- the sea, some guest is hosting and on ner party. Lights strung overhead the formally the trunks of trees illuminate our quiet little set dinner places. We four in happenings of corner are animated with the approaches we the evening and as midnight and rise in pop the cork, fill our glasses All around unison to salute the New Year. air. Then we us “Auld Lang Syne” fills the spectacle over hear the ra-ta-ta and see the with the bottle the water. We begin running Irvine Hotel we turn in and drive past the turn in and drive past Irvine Hotel we along the uphill road, sur- hotel’s entrance, vacation lodging — lovely veying future a bit on the secluded side homes, but we thought. security-wise — In Tobago, ongoing traditions include net fishing (above) which helps provide fresh fare for the island’s many beach bars (such as Cascreole at Castara Bay, top), restaurants, hotels and resorts NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28

It’s Blowing [email protected] • www.frangipanibequia.com the frangipani hotel,bar&restaurant,bequia P.O. Box 1BQ,Bequia, St.Vincent &theGrenadines, W.I. it’s blowing! Coconut treesattheheadofharborarenaturalwindindicators: Tel: (784)458-3255•Fax: (784)458-3824 in Bequia DESTINATIONS by BarbaraGailS.Warden Donʼt missourThursdayBBQ& Jump up Spectacular views •Quality accommodation Fine dining•Excellentselectionofwines Warm &friendlyatmosphere Our stock,quality,price,know-howand fishingexperienceisunsurpassed YOUR #1CHOICEINFISHINGGEAR café-fax-realestate-office-giftshop. ing ourlaundry.TheydoeverythingatHandyAndy’s:it’salaundromat-internet- headquartered righthereinBequia. staff ofoneourfavoritemagazines.Yes,thefamous wooden floor.) (Literally paintedbydippingpalmfrondsinpaintanddroppingthemonthe mirrors, reedtoilet-paperholder,andafloorpatternedwithpalmfronds. and thehand-paintedbathroomsarefabulous,withhomemadesand-and-shell chairs andwatchtheharborfromshadytable.Thecheerfulstaffisfriendly and fromareduce/reuse/recycleperspective.Wesitinbrighthand-painted votives andrum-bottlehurricanelamps.They’reoddlyappealing,bothvisually ingly iconoclasticTommyCantina,admiringthebizarrelocalcrafts:beer-bottle stay far,faraway,sowedo.) on tinySemple’sCay.(We’retoldit’samessy,smellybusinessandweshould here, theycaptureandbeginprocessingawhaleattheirlow-techwhalingcenter four whalesperyear.Someyearstheydon’tgetevenone,buttheweekwe’re Andy’s. Thisislegalhere,becauseBequiaislandersareallowedto“take”up charter/travel boutique,andnegotiateahorncarvedfromwhaleboneatHandy eateries. Ibuyacutefemale-cutteeinthecharminglynamedSailRelaxExplore truly awesomewaterfrontrestaurants. to tiethedinghyto.Youcanalsobeachitandcleanrightinfrontofseveral times mid-afternoon. gentle motionandlappingsoundthatsendsyougentlytosleepatnight…some- cool, breezynights,evenwithhalf-closedhatches,andgivestheboatthatperfect the same.Somehow,though,itdoesn’treallyrockboats.Itjustmakesfor the cruiserswho’vebeenherebeforearesplit—it’seitherfarstrongerorjust that unbalanceyouindeafness).Thelocalsallsayit’sunnaturallywindy,but at 20to30knotsalmostthewholetendayswe’rehere(withstartlinghiatuses waiting). it andcheckinatBequia,whichyoucanalsodoAdmiraltyBay,without ing intotheGrenadinestherecanbetime-consumingsoyoumightwanttoskip ping hour’ssailfromthenearestislandtonorth(St.Vincent;althoughcheck- plus feet(amodifiedcruisingEricson36),it’seasy.It’salsobarelyawholewhop- using myfavoritemethodology:thedrink-in-hand.Eveninaboatdrawingfive- bunch ofreallygoodrestaurants. loft, severalmechanics,twogrocerystores,freshproduce,shopping,anda mid-sized carferry,itneverthelesssportsacouplemarinerepairspots,sail Admiralty Bayisatrulydelightfulcove.Withonlyonedockbigenoughfor ed spotforwalkers,hikers,andcruisersofallkinds.Theprincipalport long hair,youmustbringconditionerhere. Bequia, somewherebetweenpleasantlycoolinganddeafening.Andifyouhave by thetimeIpulledoutcamera.Thewindstrikesaturbulentbalancein back. Kayakingthismorning,Iwenttosnapapictureandblew40feetbackward half-closed hatch.AndthebreezewassocoolIactuallygotuptogetsheet

Mustad Hooks FISHING &DIVINGGEAR Penn &Diawa Anglers Lures Rods &Reels Later, wespendanhouronHandyAndy’sinternetcaféwhiletheyfinishfold- Walking thehundredyardsbacktomidtown,wemakeadetourvisit We loungeforanhourorsooverfreshlymadefrozenmargaritasinthecharm- One daywespendontheharborwalkway,visitingtinycraftshops,bars,and In thebeautifullyshelteredinnerharbor,there’sanicechoiceofricketydocks Inside theBay,boatsfloatquietlyatanchorevenwhilethatwindcontinues And theharbor’swelcoming,simple-mindedapproachiseasilyaccomplished Apart fromwind,thesmallislandofBequiainGrenadinesisanenchant- Admiralty Bay Last night,thesheetblewrightoffberthinwindsneakingthrougha TACKLE SHOP TEL: (784)458-3420FAX: 458-3797 LULLEY‘S Wire, Floats,Nets,Twines,Ropes EMAIL: [email protected] Visit usforallyourneeds DUTY FREE Foul WeatherGear Rigged &Unrigged Fresh Bait Leaders SERVING FISHERMENAND FRONT STREET WEST INDIES YACHTSPEOPLE —Continued onnextpage BEQUIA SINCE 1950 Caribbean Compass Collectable Knives Courtesy Flags & DivingGear Snorkeling is NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 and ask for Stan or Miguel! St. Vincent & The Grenadines Big Blue Building VHF 68, Telephone 784-457-3361 Already dinghy-splashed, we don’t even consider trying to land. We laze to land. We laze Already dinghy-splashed, we don’t even consider trying More Civilized Fodder restaurant, where Tomorrow, our last day, we’re going to the Devil’s Table I’m going to miss this quirky place. But we’ll be back. don’t really understand. I hear it involves an off-road Jeep and a lot of walk- don’t really understand. I hear it involves an off-road Jeep ing. sheltered cutout away ten minutes washing back and forth in a relatively which is kind of between cliffs as high as four-story apartment buildings, out of the cliffs as if what they are — eerie Tolkienesque dwellings hewn curves and acute by underworlders. Many have no right angles. All odd up the erratic cliffs. angles, they’re linked by stairs staggering drunkenly bugs, and salt Most have no glass in the windows — open to breezes, look. We saw not a spray. This gives the whole place a curiously ruinous only to encounter sign of life and felt like we had rounded the headland the deserted ruins of a previous culture. and listen to live we’ll debark directly from our dinghy to a harborside table, They claim the music while they combine local cuisine with home cooking. and also to rights to “the best steak in this whole corner of the Caribbean” from leaves. I can’t excellent calalloo soup, a Caribbean delicacy. It’s made wait — for the meal, the music, and even for the leaves. Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available. Look for the The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, Whiling away an afternoon at Friendship Bay Bequia Marina Port Elizabeth’s picturesque main street Penn Reels Penn Parts Penn Service and repair s v r o r fffffff ie h bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb f yo ibiibbibbibibibibbibbibibbibibbibib pa g fg fg fg fg fg fg fg fg fg fg fg fg fg fg fg fg fg fg fg g rib art er omomeomo ust ith Ree S j ComComComComComComComComComComComCComComComCoComComCComComCoComCo ssor s, ma

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th rmin cessories a om a Icom VHF Garmin GPS Accessories Leatherman Continued from previous page Continued from Moonhole the coast to unearthly, One especially windy day, we head out by dinghy along On the far side of a rocky cliff is Lower Bay, a longer, local-er beach, perfect for On the far side of a rocky cliff is Lower Bay, a longer, Princess Margaret & Lower Bay Beaches Princess Margaret & Lower edge are two palm-lined beaches, Princess Margaret Along the harbor’s southern Back at Admiralty Bay, we eat a fantastic dinner at the Frangipani, one of several eat a fantastic dinner at the Frangipani, one of several Back at Admiralty Bay, we Another day, we hike two hours across the island to Industry Bay. This is much hours across the island to Industry Bay. This is much Another day, we hike two Instead of going to see the whale chopped up, we hike an hour or so from Admiralty up, we hike an hour or so to see the whale chopped Instead of going ghostly Moonhole. Founded by an iconoclastic architect, Tom Johnston, this remote ghostly Moonhole. Founded by an iconoclastic architect, reach by sea, with a rocky lee community is hard to reach by land. It’s also hard to the residents get here, I still shore and no beach on the Admiralty Bay side. How more energetic runs and deserted paddling. Even here you don’t have to bring your more energetic runs and deserted paddling. Even here Dawn’s, De own drink — stop by one of the low-key open-air beach-bar/restaurants: Name. Reef, Keegan’s and even one called Can’t Remember the and Lower Bay. In some spots, lounge chairs hold cheerful French families under lounge chairs hold cheerful French families under and Lower Bay. In some spots, deserted stretches made for quiet walks at water’s edge. coconut palms. Others are with pools, cracks, and small The cliffs around Princess Margaret Beach are packed here, visiting from a near- caves to explore. And yes, Princess Margaret once stayed by private island, Mustique. traditional Caribbean hotels. Juicy prime rib with peppercorn crust and crisp conch Juicy prime rib with peppercorn crust and crisp conch traditional Caribbean hotels. give tile floors, and open-air layout of these hotels fritters. The dark-raftered ceilings, elegance. Even these upscale spots welcome cruisers the shore an air of old-time we know because we beach the dinghy by their back door straight off the boat, which very wet bottoms. and go in with sandy feet and prettier than it sounds: it’s a sweep of pale sand fringed with tall palms. On it, a sweep of pale sand fringed with tall palms. On prettier than it sounds: it’s and old hotel with a 40-foot ceiling, giant-sized doors Crescent Beach is a lovely walkways populated only by tiny lizards and white shutters, and peaceful open-air the we decide we can’t walk another ten minutes to see birds. Through sheer sloth told the turtles come right up to you and poke their turtle farm. But we are later stroked, like cats. Maybe next season. heads above the water to be Bay to lovely Friendship Bay, where we while away another afternoon drinking rum where we while away another afternoon drinking rum Bay to lovely Friendship Bay, find at the Moskito bar by the beach, which we both punch in the swinging chairs much more soothing. — NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 a decentamountofspacebetweenthem—they rigs out,boatstieddowntodeadmenandstoredwith pads tokeepthelegsfromsinkingintosoftland, — i.e.withplentyofstandsproperlytiedtogether, kers pointedoutthatifboatswereproperlystored However, someyachtingwritersandinsurancebro- good placetostoreboatsinhurricaneseason. tip ofGrenada,potentiallyeliminatingGrenadaasa hurricane boxto12°North,justattheverysouthern immediate reactionwastomovethesouthendof September 7th,2004.Manyinsuranceunderwriters’ of HurricaneIvan,whichhammeredtheislandon ing byleapsandbounds. structure tosupportyachtinginGrenadawasimprov- Island WaterWorld)andwerebooming.Theinfra- of majorCaribbeanchandleries(BudgetMarineand a success. canvas andwoodworkingshops.GrenadaMarinewas ous tradestoopenupshopinhisyard,including and re-surfacetheaccessroad.Heencouragedvari- built, andhepersuadedthegovernmenttorebuild and graded,adocktraveliftinstalled,buildings Harbour onGrenada’ssouthcoast.Thelandwasfilled extra cost. covered againstlossescausedbynamedstormsatno l2°30’ to12°50’North,soboatsstoredinGrenadawere writers putthesouthendofhurricaneboxat outside oftheso-calledhurricanebox.Mostunder- yachtsmen wantedtolaytheirboatsupinanarea Spice Islandwaswellfilledbutincreasingnumbersof He wantedtoopenanewyachtstoragefacility,as took arealgamble,whichhasprovedtobewinner. internet lounge. it TheBoatyardandaddingapopularTikiBar Spronk hadbeeninstrumentalinstarting),renaming of theoriginalSpiceIslandpremises(whichPeter was born. chandlery, sail-loftandrestaurant,SpiceIslandMarine arm ofPricklyBay.Withtheadditionatravelift, permission tofilllandattheheadofnorthwest would havetobeestablished.Eventuallytheyreceived Island boatyardwastoosmallandanother,largeryard amount ofmoneyyachtsmenspentinGrenada. a realimprovementthatsubstantiallyincreasedthe and workonorstore,amaximumofabout20boats, way, withtheirnewlyinstalledtraveliftcouldhaul, being limitedtohaulingoneboatatatimeonrail- ing inlandtothesouth.NowSpiceIsland,insteadof from JohnBluntin1984,installingatraveliftandfill- the localEvansfamilybuyingSpiceIslandboatyard industry’s nextphaseofdevelopmentinGrenadawas Caribbean charterbases. made Mt.HartmanBaythesouthernterminusoftheir choice ofmarinasandboatyards,TheMoorings of Antigua.Bytheearly1980s,yachtsmenhada Grenada wasonaroll—headandshouldersahead there wasnoyachtingindustry.Bytheearly1970s, Unfortunately, Murphy’sLawkickedin,intheform By thesummerof2004,bothyardshostedbranches Jason foundnineacresattheheadofSt.David’s Then in1998,localbusinessmanJasonFletcher Roger andMyrnaSpronktookoverthemanagement By 1997,theEvansfamilydecidedthatSpice The biggestchangethatstimulatedtheyachting When IfirstarrivedinGrenada,Marchof1962, — keepthemcoming! S/V Sandcastle Linda andRogerHutchinson always We enjoy yourarticles Dear Compass, www.caribbeancompass.com Join ourgrowinglistofon-linesubscribers! 12 issuesUS$29.95,24 issues US$53.95 See howtosubscribeat: him, buthehascreatedamarinathatwilleventually edly steppedonafewtoesandgotsomepeoplemadat vehicles, wreckedboatsandotherdebris.Heundoubt- edges ofthelagooncompletelyclearedderelict moved tonewhousingonthesouthcoast,and marina calledPortLouishasbeenbuilt,thesquatters Grenada, andreallygottheballrolling.Amodern England, tookoverGYSandthesurroundingareain credited withrevitalizingtheeconomyofFalmouth, done. Peter,whosecreationofPendennisshipyardis arrived onthescene.Heisamanthatgetsthings However nothinghappeneduntilPeterdeSavary Grenada YachtServicesinSt.George’sLagoon. signed anagreementtotakeoveranddeveloptheold numerous marinasbothintheUKandworldwide, ashore inGrenada. convinced andwillinsureboatsproperlystored should beinsurable.Manyunderwritershavebeen In 2002Camper&Nicholsons,acompanythatowns Part Two:1984toPresent The History in Grenada of Yachting by DonStreet Phone: (58-281)267-7412Fax: 2677-810VHFChannel71Webpage:

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marina internacional ElMorroTouristComplex Lat. 10°12 No hurricanes270sq.milesofcalmseas Fullamenities http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail: [email protected]

24"NLong.64°40 CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS the islandfrequently. industry bybasingtheirboatsinGrenadaorvisiting Grenada andfortheyachtsmenthatsupport only fortheyachtingindustrybutalsoislandof money intotheeconomy,futurelooksbright—not Grenada thatyachtingputsmassiveamountsof nity allworkstogethertoconvincetheGovernmentof ments inrecentyears,iftheentireyachtingcommu- money intotheeconomyofGrenada.Withdevelop- south andwest)ifanamedstormapproaches. during hurricaneseason;justheadsouth(orbetter, Grenadines areperfectlyacceptablecruisinggrounds caused byanamedstorm ing, lossofmast,etcetera— box, dogivecompletenormalcoverage—forground- do notgivecoverage not realizeisthatmostmarineinsurancepolicies box andtheirinsurancecomesbackinfullforce. once southof12°North,theyareoutthehurricane aimed atGrenadacontinuedduewest.Formanyyachts, become untenable,orevenadeathtrap,ifhurricane bypassing Margarita.IsaythisasMargaritacouldeasily to Trinidad,orsouthwestPuertoLaCruz,Venezuela, liveaboard crewswillhaveenoughsensetoheadsouth mer destination. Grenadines, willappealtomanyliveaboardsasasum- anchorages, andreadyaccesstocruisingthe water forswimminganddiving,anabundantvarietyof ture, willbecometheplacetobe.Grenada,withclear board, Grenada,withitsrapidlyimprovinginfrastruc- boats tospendthehurricaneseasonwithcrewson try gettogetherandpulltogether.Andasaplacefor if allthemajorplayersinisland’syachtingindus- but shewillcertainlygiveTrinidadarunforthemoney one placetolayupayachtduringhurricaneseason, Blue Bay. Horizon YachtChartershasdevelopedabaseatTrue charter basetoCanouanintheGrenadines,but south coastofGrenada.TheMooringshasmovedits that congregateinthevariousanchorageson Whisper Cove,havesprunguptocatertheyachts Bay Marina,Martin’sClarke’sCourtand and theongoingsuccessofotherfacilities. labor createdbythecompletionofPortLouismarina Grenada becauseofthedemandforgood,skilledyacht even someofthoseworkingintheStateswillreturnto the yachtingfieldinotherislandsCaribbeanand the extentthatmanyfeelGrenadiansworkingin will stillprovideconsiderablelocalemployment—to in theworld.Evenwhenamarinaisonlyhalffull,it clear waterandgoodholdingonasandbottom. dinghy distancefromtownandtheYachtClub,with as PandyBeach)onefindsananchoragewithineasy side theharbourmouthinMartin’sBay(alsoknown in verysoftmuck.Butwhycomplainwhenrightout- polluted lagoonthathasbeenfamousforpoorholding cruising yachtsmenlostabout20mooringsinabadly some 70berthsformega-yachts. have hundredsofberthsfornormal-sizedyachtsand Yachting hasinthepastputlargequantitiesof A veryimportantmatterthatmanyyachtsmendo Hopefully, ifahurricaneapproachesGrenada,all Grenada mightnotreplaceTrinidadasthenumber A numberofmarinas,suchasLePhareBleu,Prickly Yachting isoneofthemostlabor-intensiveindustries With developmentofthenewPortLouismarina, ■ PuertoLaCruz for namedstorms . ThusGrenadaandthe as longthelossisnot ■ Venezuela ' 5"W in thehurricane NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31

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“If this is correct,” he continued, “then it helps to The population could also have been decimated by Dog skeletons were found with several of the human What about cannibalism? The British scholar, who The recovered items from the former village sites on Why was that? Surely at that time there was plenty Surely at that time there Why was that? U 4 explain how the Amerindians could have been easily explain how the Amerindians could have been easily wiped out by the introduction of European diseases which arrived about 200 years later.” slave-gathering sea raiders from neighbouring islands that were settled earlier by Europeans. By the time the first organized European settlers sailed to Barbados in the 1600s, it was uninhabited. remains. Dr. Drewitt explained: “Dogs were probably used, as they are today, as pets and to retrieve downed game such as birds. Perhaps the dogs were also revered for religious purposes to replace the jaguar found in South America. The way the dogs were buried is similar to the way jaguars are ritually buried in South America.” has written a book on Barbados’ first settlers, dis- missed the theories that the Amerindians were canni- bals. “There is no direct historical evidence (of this). There is no archaeological evidence in the Caribbean that human remains were butchered or chopped up for human consumption.” the island include clay pots and axe heads. They will be housed in the Barbados Museum in Bridgetown, reminders of the first Bajans. of wildlife on both land and sea, in addition to agricul- land and sea, in addition of wildlife on both on some of Dr. Drewitt disclosed that tural produce. sites, most of found at the archaeological the skeletons were abnor- gone and the jawbones the teeth were that there was malnutri- mally thin. This suggested the Amerindian settle- tion. “It could also mean that with the population ment became overcrowded, sustain themselves, unhealthy and unable to properly away from the island,” causing the inhabitants to move he said. 4 G

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R : L O E TEL: 58 (281) 265-3844 - E-MAIL : [email protected] : [email protected] 58 (281) 265-3844 - E-MAIL TEL: T CORNER: MIRANDA CORNER: C THE CRUISING SAILOR`S CHANDLERY SINCE 1990 THE CRUISING SAILOR`S CHANDLERY AMERON ABC 3 TIN FREE SELF POLISHING ANTIFOULING PAINT AMERON

Above: This engraving from 1590 shows Amerindians making a dugout canoe in the age-old manner, using fire and seashell scrapers. The first inhabitants of Barbados would have used the same methods Left: The original settlers of the Antilles paddled their log canoes from the coast of today’s Venezuela and Guyana northward through the island chain. (Surprisingly, this 18th century map calls the Caribbean the ‘North Sea’) Ichirouganiam Despite the Amerindians’ resourcefulness and cre- Of the everyday life of the native peoples in BarbadosOf the everyday life of the native Columbus In 1400 A.D., shortly before coral for- Because Barbados is of soft CARIBBEAN MARITIME HISTORY CARIBBEAN ativity, life for them wasn’t any Garden of Eden. They ativity, life for them wasn’t any Garden of Eden. They didn’t, for example, live very long by modern day standards. “You would be seriously old at age 30. Most of the burials we found were people in the 35- to 40-year- old age bracket,” said Dr. Drewitt. ture at the Barbados Museum that the jumping-off Museum that the ture at the Barbados in northern Amerindian explorers was point for the coast. specifically around the Orinoco South America, present-day area comprises the This general parts and its environs, including Venezuelan coastline of Guyana. arrived, Dr. Drewitt saidbefore the European peoples The first Caribbeanthey were farmers and fisherfolk. peoples gave the name teeth”, referring probablymeans, roughly, “red land and and its sur- to the land’s red clay soil rounding reefs. 166-square- visited the Caribbean, the a total of mile island had, he estimates, 300 50 to 60 villages with approximately They farmed to 500 people in each one. and fished in manioc, maize and cassava for mol- both inshore and offshore waters lusks, crustaceans and fish. hard stone mation, it did not have any peoples there- such as granite. The native of shell mate- fore had to carve tools out the examples rial, mainly conchs. Among of tools found at the sites were some made of harder material brought from the neighbouring islands of St. Vincent and St. Lucia, which were formed from volca- nic activity. by Norman Faria

Leader of the University of London team which Historians say the Eastern Caribbean islands were Historians say the Eastern Prior thinking was that the earliest human presencePrior thinking was that the Discoveries by British archaeologists in recent years Discoveries by British archaeologists The history books will have to be rewritten about The history books will have Early Caribbean Voyages: Voyages: Early Caribbean

Earlier Than Than Earlier We Thought?

worked on the St. Peter site and others in the island worked on the St. Peter site and others in the island over the years, Dr. Peter Drewitt, said in a 2003 lec- Lucia. Amerindian settlers would have known of land Lucia. Amerindian settlers would have known of land upwind because of the fresh flotsam drifting down towards them. first settled by Amerindian voyagers from South first settled by Amerindian voyagers from South America. They got here aboard large ocean-going dugout canoes, paddling from island to island. Barbados was probably settled after scouting expeditions came from what are now known as St. Vincent and St. was between 200 B.C. and 400 A.D. To test the newwas between 200 B.C. and took pottery shards andtheory, the British scientists to Britain for carbon dating. skeletal remains with them at a former Amerindian village site in the island’s at a former Amerindian village that the first Barbadians northern St. Peter parish show as 2000 B.C. (“Bajans”) lived there as early Barbados — at least when it comes to dating the earli- Barbados — at least when Caribbean island. est habitation of this Eastern HERMAN MOLL HERMAN NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 by John Burnie AGlimpseatthe charts. Fairtides! nadir tosoonafteritsrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. moon’s settingtojustafteritsnadir,thetiderunseastward;andfrom moon reachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjustafterthe to theeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutanhour calculate thetides. of themeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisandnextmonth,willhelpyou author ofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,whichshowsthetime your passagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDonStreet, Read inNextMonth’s For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrunning Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewillmake P.O. Box851,St.Vincent&theGrenadines, 20 0618 19 0530 18 0437 17 0339 16 0237 15 0130 14 0024 13 0000 12 2322 (full) 11 2224 10 2132 9 2043 8 1958 7 1913 6 1829 5 1744 4 1658 3 1610 2 1520 1 1429 DATE TIME November 2008 Tel: (784)458-7270Fax:457-9917 Stocking StuffersforYourFavoriteSailors NOVEMBER &DECEMBER2008 MERIDIAN PASSAGE Women’s CaribbeanKeelboatChamps E-mail: [email protected] OF THEMOON WALLILABOU ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAYHOTEL West Indies. Confessions ofaC.L.O.D. (range limitedbythehills) VHFCh16&68 9 2102 8 2008 7 1920 6 1834 5 1751 4 1708 3 1625 2 1540 1 1454 DATE TIME December 2008 1405 1315 30 29 28 1224 27 1133 26 1045 (new) 25 0958 24 0913 23 0829 22 0746 21 0703 … andmore! ... CARIBEE BATIK-BOUTIQUE CREDIT CARDSACCEPTED WATER, ICE,SHOWERS BAR ANDRESTAURANT MOORING FACILITIES TOURS ARRANGED HAPPY HOUR5-6 Compass PORT OFENTRY 1 1506 1423 31 1338 30 1250 29 28 27 1201 26 1111 (new) 25 1020 24 0930 23 0842 22 0756 21 0711 20 0628 19 0544 18 0459 17 0412 16 0320 15 0223 14 0120 13 0013 12 0000 11 2306 (full) 10 2201 Dark : to theUKandvessel’sGreekowners. (Maritime CommunicationSystemforRescueCoordinationCentres)andforwarded stolen inGreecesuddenlygaveashort“ping”.ThissignalwaspickedupbyMRCC always bedeterminedintheirintenttorecoverwherepossible. percent ofthemarefoundandrecoveredwithin12months,sounderwriterswill needed toconfrontthecriminal! therefore clearwhatwewereupagainstiftofindthestolenvesseland criminal stolesomeyearsbeforeandsailedtotheDominicanRepublic.Billwas been assistinginthesearch.Billhadalreadyhelpedrecoveranotheryachtthissame this vesselintheCaribbean,andBillBaileyofCaribbeanMarineUnderwritershad dren) andtransportingillegalimmigrantstotheUSA.Ihadbeenwatchingoutfor and hismissionwasusuallytousetheboatforhumantrafficking(includingchil- maran fromachartercompanybasedinGreece.Thecriminalhaddonethisbefore are innocent. the authoritieswanttocheckupon“innocentyachties”.Butnotallyachtcruises adrift nearAnguilla.) of theunderwriters. Caribbean forrepairsandeventualreturn totheinsured. that servedeliciousfreshwaterfish I haveneverseenbefore! traditional “rivertrafficlife”stillexistsand wheretherearewonderfulrestaurants the areaforaperiod.Macapais,however, afascinatingifremotetownwherevery ing yacht,andspecialistknowledge abilityarerequiredifyoutoremainin available. Theriveris,infact,quiteaproblematic environmentfortheaveragecruis- ticularly easyforcruisingyachtsinthat moorings,water,etcetera,arenotreadily of theAmazon(nearmouth)isverychallenging—ittidalandnotpar- Caribbean cruisingfraternitylookingfornewdestinationsthatthisparticularpart intention toreleasetheyachtquicklyandwithaslittlebureaucracypossible. siderate andhelpful.BoththePortCaptainFederalPolicehaveshownagood release. BillandIfoundalltheauthoritiesinBraziltobehighlyprofessional,con- Capitania dosPortosinSamaná,nearMacapa,untilthepaperworkisclearedfor its areas small“prisons”. the cabinswereallmodifiedwithboltsandlocksonoutsidetomakecabin on theyachtaswellsomeshockingevidenceofhumantrafficking.Thedoors on the unitinitsbox,switchedoffandapparentlyunused.Wealsofoundvariousdrugs for theinsuredparties.ItisnotentirelyclearwhyEPIRBwassetoff,aswefound in jailBrazilawaitingdeportation. out anytrouble(lasttime,BillhadtogettheDominicanArmyhelp!)andheisnow man SirPeterBlakewaskilled.TheFederalPolicearrestedthePolishcriminalwith- Amazon, justnorthofwherewewere.ThisisexactlytheNewZealandyachts- the FederalPolicesuddenlycaughtvillaininMacapaatmouthof the the vesselorpartsofvessel’sinventory.WhileBillandIsearchedinsouth, had alreadytransgressedseverallocalby-laws.Hehad,infact,beentryingto sell of whomwereverykeentohelpusapprehendthecriminal. prospective areas.BillhadalreadycontactedalltherelevantauthoritiesinBrazil, our stepsbackupnorthtothemouthofAmazon,alltimesearching Manaus andBelemmadeourwaydowntoFortaleza,withtheideaofretracing ly dauntedattheprospectofactuallyfindingstolenyacht.Wetravelledthrough describe adequatelyhowhugethemouthofAmazonis,soBillandIwereslight- located —basicallybetweenthemouthofAmazonRiverandFortaleza.Icannot mission tocheckoutsomeofthelikelyplacesnearareawheresignalwas a Caribbeanlocation,buttoBrazil.ItwasdecidedthatBillandIwouldsetoffon In lateAugust,theEPIRB(emergencybeacon)registeredtoyachtthatwas Leisure vesselsofthissizeandnaturearestolenworldwide,butstatistically80 In August2007,aknownanddangerousPolishcriminalstoleLagoon44cata- Cruisers sometimescomplainaboutbureaucracyandredtape,wonderingwhy John BurniecruisestheCaribbeanaboard Bill andIarenowassemblingacrewwho willcollecttheyachtanddeliveritto The Amazonisafascinatingareaoftheworld.However,Iwouldwarn The yachtisinpoorconditionanditcurrentlyreststhejurisdictionof Bill andItravelledtoMacapaare,asofthiswriting,repossessingtheyacht It appearsthisvesselhadbeenalreadyseennearBelemandthePolishindividual Bill andIwereinformedabouttheEPIRB“ping”wetracedsignal—notto ‘prison’ ship cat hadbeenmadeintoa boat, butdownbelowthis flying, itlookslikeaparty This photo:Withflags always cruiser-friendly Amazon iscolorful,butnot Top left:Lifeonthe SideofBoating Compass may remembertheaccountIwroteinJanuary2008issueof company andactastheirlocalcontactintheCaribbean.(Readers I occasionallyassistaGermanyachtinsuranceunderwriters’ Arnolf wasabandonedduringtheARC2006andlaterfound onthesearchandrecoveryofyacht S/Y Indaba. Arnolf onbehalf NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

NORMAN FARIA in Barbados, on its second visit to the Caribbean. He planned in Barbados, on its second visit to the Caribbean. He planned Go small, go now, keep going. Swedish sailor Anders Dicander aboard Go small, go now, keep going. Swedish sailor Anders Dicander Goodwin II to head west

is hull Goodwin II He took her Goodwin II DIFFERENT BOATS FOR DIFFERENT FOLKS BOATS FOR DIFFERENT DIFFERENT Goodwin II. by Norman Faria Second Time Around for Goodwin for Around Time Second You may reach Anders at [email protected] to see how he is see how he is You may reach Anders at [email protected] to Unlike Olle, who on his trip headed north through the islands to the Unlike Olle, who on his trip headed north through the Most frequent comments from passersby at the docks and anchorages? Most frequent comments from passersby at the docks Anders, 38, said he would have liked another, slightly larger, Swedish Anders, 38, said he would have liked another, slightly costs One of the reasons for “thinking small” is to keep maintenance These little double-ender pocket cruisers continue to be quite popular These little double-ender pocket Anders made a few changes on board. One, he put in more electrics Anders made a few changes “Yes, the boat was here in the 1990s when you interviewed then owner “Yes, the boat was here in the From the Carlisle Bay shore in Barbados earlier this year, the in Barbados earlier this year, the From the Carlisle Bay shore getting along. Virgin Islands and then back to Europe, Anders said he was thinking at Virgin Islands and then back to Europe, Anders said into the Pacific. the time of heading west across the Caribbean and on From Barbados, he was to join Stephanie in Martinique. He tells you: “Are you crazy?” and “You must be brave”. boat, the Albin Vega. He settled for the cheaper boats” and low. Swedish people, however, like “working on and repairing look at the many preserving maritime culture, he says. You only have to clubs and co- restoration projects of old wooden boats there. Boating to the UVBK operatives are also significant in this regard. Anders belongs (Upplands Vasby Bätklubb) in Stockholm. number 744 and was built in 1968 for the OSTAR Atlantic race and number 744 and was built was designed by Lage Ekland. sailed by Ake Mattsons. It years while work- to the Western Mediterranean and lived aboard for two had a six- ing there before heading west to the Caribbean. He previously aboard”. metre racing catamaran but “too much spray was coming in Sweden, says Anders. About a thousand of the boats were built. It is in Sweden, says Anders. About English, Sea Nymph). The called the Havsfidra class (in powered by solar panels. There is also a 15-horsepower Mariner on a powered by solar panels. is the refrigerator. Anders and his girl- special bracket. Oh yes, there him every now and again, wanted comfort friend Stephanie, who joins (20 feet) sloop named even if the cabin of the six-metre-long gets a bit cramped inside. Olle Landsell. I bought it in 2000,” Swedish national Anders Dicander Olle Landsell. I bought it a chat. tells me as I row out to have little double-ender cutter bobbing up and down in the anchorage bobbing up and down in the anchorage little double-ender cutter seemed familiar. NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space a 111-slipmarinaandboatyardwith12acresofdrystoragespace Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, Onsite amenitiesandservicesincludeabank/ATM,supermarket, V chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and chandlery, restaurant,bakery,clothingstore,diveshop,phoneand a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration a pristineandrelaxingenvironment.BVICustomsimmigration Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises Our facilitylocatedintheheartofbeautifulVirginGordacomprises offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel offering insuranceapprovedhurricanepitstosecureyourvessel fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice, fax facilities,freewirelessinternetaccess,fuel,waterandice, laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in laundry facilities,andanofficeoftheBVITouristBoardallin IRGIN Tel: 284495-5500

8 495-5318 284 IN OURCARETHISSUMMER located withinconvenientwalkingdistance. G ORDA Web:www.vgmarina.biz LEAVE YOURBOAT during hurricane season. during hurricaneseason. Full ServiceMarinaFacility VHF Ch:16 Y ACHT a: 8 495-5706 284 Fax:

284 495-5685 ARBOUR stayed onthebowoftroopshiponemore waveIwouldhavebeenwashedoverboard. They becamemysteeringcompass.And againthesituationlookedhopeless. waves grewlargeenoughtosplashintomy down-turnedfacehangingoverthebow. tarily beforeafreshbreezestartedblowing fromtheisland.Soononcoming became mycompass—forawhile.Inthe middleofthenightwinddiedmomen- ing ahead,turtle-like,tomaintaindirection. Thebreezeblowingonmylegsandbutt Belly down,headoverthefrontofdinghy, itsoonbecamepainfultokeeplook- hands andarmsdownintothewaterpaddling,paddling. ing thereimpossible.Theonewhowasawakelaidbellydownoverthebowwith because thesixinchesofsloshingrainwaterinbottomdinghymadesleep- that morning.Duringthenightwetookturnstryingtobalanceonseatandsleep with whatseemedincreasedforce;butwehadwater. parched skins.Itstoppedasquicklyithadstarted.Thesuncameburningdown to directmorerainintotheboat.Wedrankandsoakedwaterinthrough our turned theseaarounduswhite,weheldrainjacketsextendedoutover side the boatinhopeofkeepingrainwaterdrinkable.Whentorrentslargedrops ing rainwatertodrinkrevivedus.Withourshirtswewipedmostofthesaltout of of thunder.Cloudscoveredthesunanditbegantosprinkle.Thepossibilitycatch- areas ofbareandblisteredskin.Webaked.Timehunglikeashroud. afternoon sun,aheadofusinthebottomboat. pointed towardtheland;wejustkeptourheadsdownandshadows,castby the lethargic. Bymid-afternoonweeachhadstoppedlookingtoseewhetherthebow was in theatmospheremadedistantmountainslookimpossiblyfaraway.Wegrew one arm. selves backdowntoourkneesagainbeginpunyefforts,eachpaddlingwith began toquietlysob.Silencefellonus.Therewasnothingsay.Weloweredour- we bothstartedlaughing.Welaughedfortoolong.huggedeachotherandshe with youanymore.” through ahurricane,andinthisonethedamnboatsank,Idon’tthinkwanttosail staying withyou.Idecidedthatwould.Butconsideringinourfirsttripwewent a seriousexpressionbuthereyesweresmilingasshesaid,“I’vebeenthinkingabout fatigue bentmeforwardwithmyelbowsonkneesandheadinhands. probably putanendtoourpaddlingeffortsometimethenextday.Depressionand us awayfromourgoal.Regardlessofthewinddirection,dehydrationwould probably beonlyhoursbeforethewindshiftedtocomeagainoutofeastpush were tiring.AtthelatitudeofSt.Lucia,tradewindsareverydependable.Itwould make it!”Iwasgladshewasn’tlookingintomyeyes,seeingthedoubt. make it?” shoulders. AsIgingerlysatdownbesidehersheasked,“Judd,arewegoingto I added,“butnotbymuch.” distance atall.Isaid,“Wearedefinitelygettingcloser,”butmypositivismslippedas slosh around. were rawfromkneelinginthesaltwaterthatcontinuallygotbackintodinghyto gry, andmyarmsshouldersfeltlikehellfromtheirhoursofeffort.Myknees skin, burningthroughthethinclothofmyshort-sleevedshirt.Iwasparched,hun- the bottomofdinghy.Itwasbroilinghot.Thesunbeatdownonmysweating and satontheseat,lettingheavyraingearthathadbeenshadingmedropto practically nowindatallwithonlylightpuffscomingfromthenorth.Icrawledup asked, “Howareyoudoing?” overhead webothseemedtostopatthesametimeturnandlookeachother.I changing sidesnowandthen.Wepaddledinsilence.Whenthesunwasdirectly the sun. and legs.Ourexposedsalt-cakedskinwassoonburningundertheroastingraysof the backofournecks,armsandlegs.Wedrapedraingearoverbacks,heads, were bothwearingfeltgoodforawhileuntilthesunrosehigherandbegantobake without dangerouslytippingthedinghywasn’teasy.Theshortsandlightshirtswe feel warm.Takingoffthejacketswasnoproblembutpullingbib-toppedpants the directionofPanama…’ were morethantenmilesout,andweslowlymovingawayin of thelighthouseatentranceCastriesHarbour.Weagreedwe and hisgirlfriend,Zuma,findthemselvesadriftinthedinghy. Lucia afterstrikingasubmergedobjectduringsquall,ournarrator What Goes Around To escape the misery, my mind wandered. Four times the sea had tried me. If I had To escapethemisery,mymindwandered. Fourtimestheseahadtriedme.IfI A verylightbreezecameup,blowingus inthedirectionofscatteredlights. By darkweconvincedourselveswerealotclosertotheislandthanhadbeen A blastofcoolairmademethinkIwashallucinating;andthenheardaloudclap And thenwegaveupandjustlaiddown,tryingtocover,hidefromthesun,our The seabecameflat,theairdead.sunboredownonuslikeaweight.haze As Iwatchedherfaceshebegantosmilethroughparcheddrylipsandthen After awhileZumanudgedmewithherhand.WhenIlookedintofaceshehad It wasobviouswewouldn’tgofarinthenexttenhoursofourpaddlingeffort: “Yes, forsure,becauseIsuredon’tliketheonlyotherpossibility.We Zuma groanedwithalookofdespairasshecrawledontotheseat,rubbingher I cautiouslystoodtolooktowardtheisland.Itwashardtellifwehadclosedany We wereluckyinthatthetradewindsseemedtobetakingaholiday.Therewas She said,“Standupandlook.Ifwe’rehalfwaythere,I’mdoingjustfine.” With onehandandforearminthewater, In ashortwhile,theheatofsunmaderaingearwewerewearingbeginto Part Two ‘Now andthenonthetopofawaveIthoughtcouldseeflash When theiryacht, CARIBBEAN COMPASSFICTION The Rose by DavidBarton , sinksbetweenMartiniqueandSt.

we continuedkneelingandpaddling, —Continued onnextpage are goingto NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 16ft channel • 24 hour security Shower facilities • • Telephone hook-up • WE OFFER: 120 concrete slip berths Fuel dock and bunkering • • Free satellite TV at each slip • (single phase and three phase) Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378 Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps • Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets • Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality. Wireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean • We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha – American system) Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their “Home”! Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: [email protected] IT’S MUCH MORE IT’S MUCH MORE THAN A MARINA: IT’S HOME! with you anymore’ I don’t think I want to sail we went through a hurricane, ‘Considering that in our first trip ‘Considering that in our first trip and in this one the damn boat sank, and in this one the damn boat sank, Continued from previous page Continued from THE END THE The world seemed to stand still when I heard the outboard engine start, and I In my hysteria I paid no attention, immediately climbing back up to stand on the The dinghy tipped and I fell to the seat, struggling to not go overboard and risk Frantically I began to yell and to wave the yellow rain jacket as high as I could “Zuma, sit in the bottom of the boat; I’m going to try to stand on the seat.” With great caution I stood with the yellow rain jacket in my right hand. I strained In silence the sun rose. Time dragged by. And then there was a sound on the wind, It was like a wordless chant, a prayer, or a strange sobbing. fear had left her. She still When the unearthly sound stopped she looked as though As the sun came over the distant top of the mountains, Zuma closed her eyes and As the sun came over the distant top of the mountains, For a long while I listened to the sound of the splash of the waves on the side of For a long while I listened to the sound of the splash “Maybe.” And after a long silence she mumbled through thick lips, “Do you think “Maybe.” And after a long silence she mumbled through “Maybe good enough to do better than this fucking boat is doing!” “Maybe good enough to do better than this fucking boat ships. When you get to the “Go ahead. I‘ll stay in the boat and wave at passing She spoke through swollen lips, “You know, people swim the English Channel.” She spoke through swollen lips, “You know, people swim thought. I asked, “Are you She sat in silence looking as if she was furthering the Afterward, with a sad, tense expression, she watched the sea now and then splash Afterward, with a sad, tense expression, she watched In the grayness of the first light of day, Zuma cautiously crawled back up on the light of day, Zuma cautiously crawled back up on the In the grayness of the first When my face had taken all of the salt spray I could stand, I turned around and of the salt spray I could stand, I turned around and When my face had taken all When the wind had shifted she gave up her effort to sleep on the seat. With a groan she gave up her effort to sleep on the seat. With a groan When the wind had shifted Coming back from my reverie, hope balanced reality. Coming back from my reverie, wind I knew we would never paddle our way to the With the return of the easterly thought they were leaving. The sound moved away and I knew we were dead; but no, it grew louder. The hat reappeared and as it moved toward us two more hats joined it. Soon, I saw three standing figures in a boat as it plunged over a large wave. They came straight at us but I continued to wave until finally the man in the bow waved back and I was absolutely sure they had seen us. seat and straining to see the hat on the black head. I yelled and swung the jacket over my head, but wave after wave lifted me and I saw nothing. turning the boat over with me. Zuma yelled as I rolled and tumbled on top of her. swing it above my head. to see something over the top of the waves in the direction the motor had last been heard. There was nothing but waves with here and there a little spindrift of white. I stood there, hope sustained, and finally I thought I saw something as we were lifted by a large wave. I waited an eternity, and then it came up again as if rising out of the top of a wave. Distinctly, I saw a large hat on a black head. a murmur that very slowly grew until it was recognizable as the sound of an outboard engine. We listened intently as it seemed to be getting closer. At first it grew louder and louder as if it were coming directly at us, but we could see nothing. My heart sank as the sound began to move to one side of us as if it were passing us by. Abruptly it stopped. There was again only the sound of the water, the waves on the side of the boat, and the wind. looked totally weary, but now she was relaxed and at ease. looked totally weary, but now she was relaxed and at I could just hear a vibrating, humming sound coming from deep within her. I could just hear a vibrating, humming sound coming the boat, the whisper of the wind, and watched dawn’s light turn the grey water to the boat, the whisper of the wind, and watched dawn’s deep blue. it is true that people in the water that get bitten by sharks don’t feel any pain? I it is true that people in the water that get bitten by wonder if it really hurts to drown.” beach you will send someone out for me, won’t you?” that good of a swimmer?” into the boat and farther pollute our drinking water. seat, carefully watching that her new position didn’t allow seawater to splash in and her new position didn’t allow seawater to splash in seat, carefully watching that and had tried a double handful a little while before that, ruin our drinking water. I salty and rubbery from the raingear. The wind seemed found it already tasted pretty me to suggest that we drink all the water we could to be freshening, which prompted down on her hands and sore before it got any saltier. Zuma said nothing but went bottom of the boat. knees and drank like an animal from the water in the faced the back of the boat, sitting at the very narrowest part at the bow that I could sitting at the very narrowest part at the bow that I could faced the back of the boat, could reach the water on either side and I paddled squeeze my butt into. My hands bow headway was abandoned; I just tried to keep the backwards. The effort to make chance of water splashing into the boat, into our drinking into the wind to reduce the anyway. water. Now and then it did of resignation she lay in the water in the bottom of the boat. I stayed bent over the water in the bottom of the boat. I stayed bent over of resignation she lay in the paddling and sometimes not; but always won- bow the rest of the night, sometimes in, that luck, or the guardian angel I almost believed dering if this was the time save me. wasn’t going to be there to island. Zuma also knew. If my brother or I had failed, or more realistically if our luck had failed, in just one if our luck had failed, or I had failed, or more realistically If my brother would have been ill-fated offshore trip we moments of our of the near-disastrous this time with this same boat had sunk, fishing boat. Later, when another missing in it too long to in water too cold. I was I had taken a long swim only me onboard, was the hurricane that Zuma and I, with a lot of luck, survive, but I did. And there had made it through. — NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 Compass CruisingCrossword Enjoy anidlehourwiththisfunFairWeatherwordsearchpuzzle. start ‘broad-reachingthroughParadisewiththebarometerpeggedonFair’! Well, weallhopethestormseasonisovernowandcanonceagain Word SearchPuzzlebyPaulineDolinski ©

Caribbean Compass2008 sidetokeepboatoncourse 25) 1Down____:whentillerhastobeon12Across 24) Thefleet’slandlubbershungoverthe1Down_____ bytrimmingthemizzen 22) Youcanimprove1Down25Acrossonthis 21) Inclinedtothe12Acrossside 19) 1Down_____actascenterboardsbutsitoutboard 18) Hook outofthebunks 17) 1Down______keepcrewfromfalling ofanother 14) Avesselto12Acrosshasthe1Down_____ 12) Towardthedownwindside of“hard-a-lee” 11) “1Down__”:whatEnglishyachtiessayinstead 10) Falloffto12Across 8) Thiscanbewindwardorlee 7) Awind____pointsawayfromthe1Down8Across 6) Thegreatestbreadthofavessel 3) Whenonstarboardtack,thisisthe1Downside 1) Twistingofarope’sstrands JaneAusten 23) “__begantotalk…oftheseaandshore.” “Don’tfalloffcourse” 20) “Takecareofthe1Down____”:slangfor geous sideofforwardpartboat 19) 1Down___effect:currentsettingagainstadvanta- to12Across 16) Whenhitbyalargewave,boatdoesthis mightgounder 15) Ifyou’reover-canvassed,the1Down______13) 1Down___:sidewaysslippage “midshipman’sparades” 9) The1Downsidesofthesearecalled 8) Landnexttoabodyofwater 6) 8Down-_____:notheadquarteredaboardship 5) 1Down+board_____=atypeofDutchship 4) 1Down____:searunningsamedirectionaswind 2) Aroperovethroughthecringleofasailforhaulingin ofanisland 1) Areashelteredfromwind,suchasdownwindside DOWN ACROSS LEE Word SearchPuzzlesolutionon page43

Crossword Solutiononpage37 NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

[email protected] d s n t la e IIslands o PPoets John Lytle Some cruisers seem to love to shout Some cruisers seem to love Whatever task they are about. signs, When anchoring, just try using designs. To inform your crew of your low, And keep your music volume to go. Wherever you might choose The joys of other people’s din, thin. In a quiet bay can wear quite Many yachts use SSB, free. To e-mail home or friends for through, Their HF signal spills right on cue. And blocks reception right fame, There is a wind machine of Everybody knows its name. banshee, It howls at us like a screaming If you have one, go back out to sea. At night an anchor light should show, A fixed white light and not too low, So all will know when it is dark, Exactly where their neighbours park. No flashing light should pierce the gloom, Or other cruisers will just fume. For flashing is reserved for buoys So don’t confuse us with those toys. This rule applies to everyone, ‘Cos sailing in is not much fun At night when yachts are all unlit, For safety’s sake please do your bit. My observations – if I dare: Just a few seem not to care, How many folk they do upset. Those other yachts they just forget. So please remember, you should not Annoy those on another yacht. A little give and take we need, This golden rule’s for all to heed. So do enjoy your sailing here, But I will say that most hold dear Their privacy and peace of mind. I hope that’s what you too will find.

To buy a boat and sail for fun To buy a boat and sail for sun, For winter winds and lots of Is part of every sailor’s dream, abeam. ’Specially when the wind’s Drop anchor in a lovely bay, I say. But learn the rules you must, too, For other people are there few. And in some places quite a If you’re very close at anchor much rancour. To other boats, you’ll cause Cruisers think this very rude, mood. And spoils their happy tranquil your bow, The boat which anchors on Will very likely cause a row. calm, Now it may be smooth and But it can change and cause alarm. Test your anchor very well, Expect more wind and perhaps some swell, You must ensure you do not drag, Or other folk may lose their rag. Bigger boats should moor behind. To smaller boats they should be kind. Catamarans are another story, To monohulls they can cause fury. If you charter, you should know, That there are many tales of woe, When charter yachts have hit a cruiser, Please take care you’re not the bruiser. When mooring dinghies to the dock, Prudent sailors use a lock, But keep it on a nice long line, So other dinks can get in fine. Some think boat boys are a pain, But chat to them and ask their name. It’s hard for them to make a living, So buy some fruit and be forgiving. And in your dinghy do not race, And cause much wash by your fast pace. Your neighbour may be cooking supper, Or boiling water for a cuppa. Remember many people swim, Then you come speeding at a whim. The danger is you may not see And then cause death or injury. Cruising Manners Matter Manners Cruising ryan weaver toon

DOWN 1) LEE 2) FANG 4) TIDE 5) BARGE 6) BASED 8) SHORE 9) QUARTERDECKS 13) WAY 15) GUNWALE 16) LURCHES 19) BOW 20) HATCH 23) HE (22 Jun - 23 Jul) LEO (24 Jul - 23 Aug) LIBRA (24 Sep - 23 Oct) PISCES (20 Feb - 20 Mar) ARIES (21 Mar - 20 Apr) VIRGO (24 Aug - 23 Sep) GEMINI (22 May - 21 Jun) TAURUS (21 Apr - 21 May) SCORPIO (24 Oct - 22 Nov) AQUARIUS (21 Jan - 19 Feb) CANCER CAPRICORN (22 Dec - 20 Jan) SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov - 21 Dec) Things are pretty aspect-clear for you. A good month to You’ll have renewed energy in the creative cockpit of Romance will be on the wane and you may feel in the Romance may knock you off your business course for a A lack of humor may cause rough seas in your love life. Creative energy will be at high tide. Use it to make for- Any choppy conditions with female crew or cruising pals Romance will sail into your sphere of influence to add Frustrations in your creative progress will take the wind Any little squalls in the sea of romance should blow Any little squalls in the sea Concentrate on creative projects onboard to take your mind Your love life will sail away after the second week, taking NOVEMBER 2008 NOVEMBER kick back, go sailing just for fun, and get away from the daily stresses of life. your life. Make the most of it! doldrums. But the weather will change in the last week and you will feel creative energies freshening. few weeks. It would be a good time for you to relax, spend some time on entertainment and get your mind off boat- work for a while. You’ll be liable to feel sorry for yourself, which will not help smooth the waters. Just ease your mainsheet and power through the bumpy patch. ward progress in projects on board and to clear the decks for coming action. will clear up after the second week. Business and finance will still be in the doldrums, but keep in mind that the best things in the cruising life are free! another vessel to your growing fleet of positive influences this month. out of your sails this month, but a little romantic distrac- tion may be just the ticket to help get your spinnaker back up and drawing. themselves out after the second week. Creative endeavors themselves out after the second so concentrate on routine may meet contrary currents, shipboard tasks. off adverse currents in your love life until the tide turns. your sense of humor with it. Don’t let it overwhelm you: there’s the promise of new love cruising your way in a couple of months, or the reappearance of an old one over the horizon. Crossword Solution ACROSS 1) LAY 3) PORT 6) BEAM 7) VANE 8) SIDE 10) SAG 11) HO 12) LEEWARD 14) GAUGE 17) CLOTHS 18) ANCHOR 19) BOARDS 21) LEEWARDLY 22) KETCH 24) RAILS 25) HELM NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 by Lee Kessell ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2008 © any humanandinthemini-secondwhenlightfirsthithim,hewasgone. food andthatwaswhenthediverswerewaiting.ButMr.Wormquickerthan there beneaththeledgesatahundredfeetneedingtocomeoutnightforagefor no sting,clawsorteethsohecouldn’thurtanyonebutdidlikehisprivacydown stubby feetthatgavehimthespeedhewasfamousfor.What’smore,Mr.Wormhad looked verymenacing,asdidallofthedeepsegmentshisbodythatendedin also hadlong,featheredexteriorgillsthat rounding anastypuckeredmouth.He machine withitsfivelongtentaclessur- okay, hisheadlookedlikeanevildrilling Although hisdeepreddishcolourwas certainly Mr.Wormwasnotaprettysight. grow quitebig—sixfeet,infactand ed, elongatedworm.Yesindeed,itdid monster atallbutaninoffensivesegment- him orher. a heroandhavethemonsternamedafter tried tofindit,wantingbeproclaimed Divers shudderedatthethoughtbutstill off theotherlegorarmifitcameback. and swallowitinonegulp,waitingtotear creature atleast20feetlongwithfangsthatcouldtearalimbfromnosydiver to thereality.Everyonebelievedthatthiswasagenuineseaserpent,diabolical retreating intothedark.ThelegendofTHETHINGhadgrownoutallproportion ledges andintocaves,sometimestheyjustcaughtthehintofahuge,longmonster They calledhimTHETHING.Whenthediverswiththeirtorchespeeredunder south oftheislandSt.LuciahadonlyevercaughtatinyglimpseMr.Worm. ity ofhispositionandalltheresidentsbayagreedwithhim. ih Mntr or Monster, Night To tellthetruth,Mr.Wormwasnosea You see,Mr.Wormwasthelocalnightmonsteranddiversinbay “Butwillhedoit?”askedthetimidlittlegardeneelwhohidatleastdisturbance. “Mr. Wormisjustthemanforjob.”Edsoldierfishspokewithauthor- larly thosewhalesfoundintheAtlanticandCaribbean. to whichwhalesbelongiscalled Whales aremammals,notfish,sotheybelongtothisclass.Theparticularfamily those livingthingswithaspinalcord.Thisphylumcontainstheclass little clearer,theorder bodies fromthecoldwater. All cetaceanshavealayerofblubber(fat) undertheirskin,whichinsulates Some speciescangrowverylargebecausetheirweightissupportedbyseawater. surface forairtobreathe.Theygivebirthliveyoungandnursethematsea. porpoises. Whatdothesecetaceanshaveincommon? (sperm whales),the (rorquals). Theodontoceti(fromaLatinword for‘teeth’)havemore:the word for‘unknowable’)havethe the baleenwhales,and DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS The This month,we’lltakealookatthescientificnamesofwhalefamily,particu- There aremanydifferentkindsofcetaceans so,tomaketheirclassificationa Cetaceans arecompletelyaquaticbuttheyhavelungsandneedtocomethe The sub-ordersarefurthersplitintoseveral families.Themysticeti(fromaGreek Master Spy? Animalia He llo ! kingdomcontainsaphylumcalled M y

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The morecommononeis in theeighteenthcentury. refers tosightingsofhumpbackswiththeirlongflippersofftheNewEnglandcoast means ‘giant(mega)–wing(ptera)ofNew(novae)England(angliae).Thename throat. Thehumpback’sscientificnameis Norwegian originmeaning‘furrows’.Itreferstothegroovesunderhumpback’s with baleenplatesinitsmouth.Thehumpbackisa particularly attwowhalescommonlyfoundintheCaribbean. Students ofLatinandGreekmaybeabletoworkoutwhattheymean.We’lllook killer whales)andthe relationships betweenthedifferenttypesofwhales. and ithasteethinitslowerjawonly! lower teeth’.Bothnamesareveryapt.Thespermwhaledefinitelyhasabighead big head’but,sometimes,it’scalled The spermwhaleispartofthePhyseteridaefamilyandhastwoscientificnames. The humpbackwhaleispartoftheBalaenopteridaefamilybecauseita Now seeifyoucanfillinthecorrectnamesonfollowingcharttoshow their mouths,bitthroughtheairhosesandturnedonfullblast,emptying octopuses whopulledthemasksfromdivers’faces,suckedregulatorsoutof men hadtobediscouragedforalltime,soflyingoutofthebluecameanarmy sight andnoamountofsearchingcouldfindany.Thatwasokayfornow,butthese the reeffishwerereadyforthem—thatis,therewasnotafish,largeorsmall,in ing fishandsenthimtogetJoe. sharp. MasterSpydartedbacktothebottomofcliffandhissedatfirstpass- specimens theverynextmorning!Theyplannedtomeetatdock8:00AM to thewallheardthatmenhadtheirlicenseandwouldbeginsiphoningup down cametheunmistakablevoicesofhappymen.Uphedartedandkeepingclose tired oftheprojectandwasreadytotellJoehemusthavebeenmistaken,when the surfacetopickupnewsoftimeanddaythathuntwouldbegin. the deepsthroughwaterbutheknewwouldhavetomakequickdashes find outwhenthisisgoingtohappen,butyouaresofast,candoiteasily.” waiting foristhelicensetobegin.Thetroubleis,Ican’thangaroundalltime about theirplansforcatchingalotofusreeffishanaquariumandalltheyare needed aMasterSpy. and clearforsomehours,Mr.WormfinallyemergedEdtoldhimthatthey to haveconvinceMr.Worm,becausethatuglyheadgavehimtheshudders. him ourtrouble,Idon’tthinkhe’llrefuse.” The nextmorningat8:30whenthemenjumpedintoseaintheirscubagear, After listeningandsurfacinginquickdashesforafewdays,Mr.Wormwasgetting Mr. Wormwassilentasheponderedtherequest.Hecouldhearquitewelldownin “You see,Mr.Worm,Iwasluckyenoughtooverhearacoupleofdiverstalking As noonevolunteered,Edhadtotakethejob,likeitornot.Well,aftercallingloud “Do wehaveanyvolunteers?”Edlookedhopeful,ashedidn’twanttobetheone “No”, spokeupthesandtilefish,“butyou’llhavetofindhimfirst.” “I knowthatMr.Wormwilltakealotofconvincing,”repliedEd,“butonceI’vetold THE END Phocoenidae Physeter macrocephalus Physeter catodon, (porpoise)families.Whatfantasticnames! THING alone.” dragon tail.Takeitfromus,leaveTHE sharp teethandclawsastinginits Sea Monster.Itwas20feetlong,had thought: “Wewereattackedbythatvicious and theyconfirmedwhateveryone they wouldnevergonearthatreefagain men kickingfranticallytothesurface. to domuchharm,butenoughsendthe the menafewpainfulstings—notenough sting raysroseupoutofthesandandgave of theirbuoyancyvestsandsomesmall bles. Sharpbeaksslashedatthewebbing the tanksinadisorientingstreamofbub- Megaptera novaeangliae The men,afterfirst-aidtreatment,swore , whichmeans‘ablowerwitha whichmeans‘ablowerwith rorqual , whichisawordof — Answers on page43 . Thisactually NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39

TERI JONES on frequency 4060 or Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware AM , for ten days. Well, the rest is history. Teri Well, the rest is history. Teri , for ten days. S/V Sea Otter e-mail: [email protected] Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear Teri has a unique, simple, and easy approach to teaching watercolor techniques. HerTeri has a unique, simple, and easy approach to teaching not pursuing your creative Whether you have a stash of paints aboard, yet are 8:00 Teri Jones can be located via the Coconut Telegraph at Over time Teri realized her creative relaxation had turned into a passion for art. She had turned into a passion realized her creative relaxation Over time Teri she finds teaching others most rewarding. She says,Next to doing her own painting About the author: Look for Cathy Keating’s new novel, “Flamingo Eyes” in 2009. adults and many cruising home-schoolers. She enjoys instructing families of “school- adults and many cruising home-schoolers. She enjoys to their children.aboards” so the parents can continue to provide help our self-imposed barriersbackground in counseling helps us novices to get beyond She teaches acceptanceand let ourselves enjoy the flow of creative experimentation. how to go with the flow ofof the happy accidents in life and art, and demonstrates inventiveness to surprise yourself with a beautiful result. begin, Artist Jones provides interests, or you can’t find supplies or decide where to and kids as she cruises easy kits of materials-to-go and lessons for adults, families who come back to learn the islands. She also has a loyal following of return students adventure by using art to more. Teri Jones advises cruisers to expand their sailing to be experiencing. “Get over connect with the natural world we are so fortunate form of self-expression. You yourself, enjoy and develop a passion for this relaxing be an artist, just start learn- are what you say you are going to be. So if you want to have a dream unless you ing, doing and saying it and you will become it. You cannot learned how to allow herself envision it.” Yes, through her growth as an artist, Teri to be a beginner and how to help us begin. Everything else went away: the pain of her injury, the daily stresses, even time her injury, the daily stresses, went away: the pain of Everything else seemed to disappear. sailing the counselor and left behind career as a drug rehabilitation quit her fulltime and Hawaii. open galleries in Washington of Washington State to San Juan Islands of the sea and sought to combine her love Teri missed cruising and Like many sailors, at the Gallery where her art found a home her way to the Caribbean art. She crewed agreed to help years ago she several other venues. Three-and-a-half St. Thomas and sail his vessel, Britt Solomon still cruising the sailing. She and Britt are of combining art and found her dream teaches watercolor painting wherever they land. islands and Teri paints and the for art in others and there is nothing like seeing “I love developing the passion gain from discovering their own talent.” Teri teachesexcitement and joy my students via Teriartist@msn.com or www.terijones.com. She frequents the Virgin Islands from via [email protected] or www.terijones.com. She frequents in Antigua during the Classic November through March and is an artist in residence St. Thomas, #1 Main Street, Yacht Regatta in April. Her work may be viewed at Gallery St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands. Sailing artist Teri Jones’s watercolors and instruction have launched many a cruiser’s creative voyage Fax: (758) 452 0311 FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR Johnson Hardware Ltd.

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by Cathy Keating by Cathy

While cruising the eastern coast of Venezuela, my husband and I discovered water- While cruising the eastern coast of Venezuela, my husband Did you pack the spare cabin with art and craft material in the hope that your new with art and craft material in the hope that your new Did you pack the spare cabin

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

Teri says, ‘There is nothing like seeing the excitement and joy my students gain from discovering their own talent’ color artist Teri Jones. Her inspirational life journey through art gave us the courage color artist Teri Jones. Her inspirational life journey through was not a born artist. She did to try our hands at painting. Teri grew up sailing, but from a debilitating injury and not pick up a brush until she was age 40, recovering she had no skill with painting. managing a demanding career. Even then she feared At first, expectations She felt she was supposed to have talent from the beginning. took a beginning watercolor of perfection hobbled her attempts to paint. She even expectations and class — three times. Gradually, Teri forgot her preconceived in the process of creation. allowed herself to play. Soon she found herself lost cruising life would inspire you to become an artist? Or have you secretly wanted to cruising life would inspire you to become an artist? Or you have the time and the try a creative endeavor but never had the time? Now Like many of us, are you inspiration but have no place to purchase the materials. no talent? These are common interested in learning to paint, but afraid you have seldom do anything about it. complaints among ‘wannabe’ creative cruisers. Yet we They are compact, fit easily on But you can! Consider the advantages of watercolors. are immediate. your boat and have a quick drying time. The rewards Art Afloat Art NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 fame isthebook.In1969HenriCharrière,called“Papillon”forbutterflytattoo Steve McQueenandDustinHoffman.Itisconsideredaclassic.Perhapsoflesser here ranksamongcruising’stopreadingexperiences. anchorage southofIleRoyale(5°17’N,52°35’W).Reading and hassincebecomeanattractionforbluewatersailors.Thereisagood,sheltered tion becauseoftheformerFrenchpenalcolonythere.Theprisonwasclosedin1947, stop atLesIlesduSalutoffFrenchGuiana.Theseislandsgainedasinisterreputa- 688 pages,ISBN9780007179961. YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, McIntyre Bros.Ltd. Many willremember“Papillon”asamoviestarringthetoughguyandshortfry: When cruiserssailaroundtheCapeofGoodHopeboundforCaribbean,many Papillon Island Memoir TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL email: [email protected] PHONE: (473)4443944/1555 A Different Outboard Engines2HP-250HP , byHenriCharrière.HarperPerennialModernClassics©2005,paperback, Duty-Free EnginesforYachts FAX: (473)4442899 Parts -RepairsService BOOK REVIEWBYRYANWEAVER Papillon whileanchored whose palmshadbeengreased.Whileonthelam, of thetimehehadaccomplicesinfellowprisonersandguardsevenwardens bludgeon, riot,raft,sleepingpotion,dynamite,boat,andthegoodoldwallhop.Most that Charrièrewasacreativeman,neverescapingthesamewaytwice.Heemployed three times:‘Aslongasthere’slife,hope.’” human will.“EachtimeIwastemptedtodespair,”Charrièresaid,“Iwouldrepeat als andtribulationsworthyofbeingclassifiedamongotheramazingtriumphs against living—letaloneescapingsuccessfullyarewhatmakePapillon’struetri- yellow fever,dysentery,tuberculosis,malaria,andothertropicaldelicacies.Theodds Not somuchfromassassinations(plentiful)orbeatingsasleprosy, ary fromtheplentifulplaguesofmainland. “Safety Islands,”theyweremoredifficulttoescapefrombutdidnotproveasanctu- Ile Royale,Saint-Joseph,andDiable.CollectivelyknownastheIlesduSalut,or the severityoftheircrimes.ThreepenalislandslayjustoffCaribbeancoastline: penitentiary ofGrandeTerre,thensiphonedofftomoresecureislandsaccording bandits?” replied,“Worsebandits.”Prisonerswereshippedfirsttothemainland (Devil’s Island),oneofLesIlesduSalut. proven innocent,DreyfuswaslefttorotforashamefullengthoftimeonDiable and famously,convictedofsellingmilitarysecretstoGermanyin1894.Evenafter Dreyfus Affair,”inwhichayoungJewishcaptaintheFrenchArmywaswrongly, nition: ESCAPE.The nies ( (he foreverclaimedinnocence)andsenttothecrumbling,diseaseriddenpenalcolo- get backonmyfeetforfourteenyears.”Charrièrewasconvictedofmurderin1931 island palm,listeningtoCharrièrebeginatthebeginning. to transportoneselfthepenalcolony,seeperspiringinshadeofan recalling richandexplicitdetail,itdoesn’trequireastretchoftheimagination left hisown.Heisacharismaticstorytellerwithoneofthoseraremindsproneto note: “Herearemyadventures:haveaprofessionalwritethemup.” them. HesentthebookstosamepublisherSarrazinused,accompaniedbythis in spiral-boundnotebooksofthetypestudentshave.Intwomonthshe’dfilled13 famous forhertrueprisonescapeyarns.Charrièrewasinspired.Hebeganscribbling of Notes versionofthetruth. on hischest,publishedanautobiographythatmakesthemovieseemacheapCliffs spirit that clings to hope — and never more poignantly than in Henri Charrière. spirit thatclingstohope—andnevermorepoignantlythaninHenriCharrière. versions ofAlcatrazthat,foralltheirbarbarity,failedtocastratetheparthuman Charrière’s finalescape.Thesedaystherottingruinsaretouristattractions,Caribbean and tatteredvoice,“I’mstillhere,youbastards!” Charrière floatingonasackofcoconutsintheCaribbeanSeashoutingcracked made up,thesecondendsprematurelyandfinalonedidnot,infact,endwith of theescapesthatactuallytookplace,andeventhosearen’taccurate:firstis be completelyfaithfultothebookwouldrunabout26hourslong. The moviehadtheoddsstackedagainstitfrombeginning:afilmthathopedto oir escaped from. everybody consideredtheFrenchjusticesystemanabominationthatdeservedtobe adopted Charrièrebutpresentedhimwithapairofyouthfulwives.Apparently, Curaçao, alawyerandhisfamilyinTrinidad,theGuajiraIndians,whonotonly him. Mostnotably,therottinglepersonIleauxPigeons,bishopandnunsof It wouldbeaspoilertogointodetailabouttheescapeattempts,exceptmention Papillon The “Itwasaknockoutblow…”thebookopens,“apunchsooverwhelmingthatIdidn’t But thegreatcharmofbookprovedtobeCharrière’scolloquialstyle,soitwas Charrière wouldn’thavethoughtofwritinghisstory,accordingtotheintroduction Available atbookstoresandviaonlinebooksellers. The tropicalIlesduSalutpermanentlyclosedtheirgatestoprisonersnotlongafter What didthefilmomit?Escapes,mostly.“Papillon”moviepresentsonlyathird No matterhowcharmingthefilmis,itbecomesclearthatCharrièreandhismem- Papillon Papillon bagnes bagnes contendsthat80percentofthepopulationdiedin , ifhehadn’tchanceduponabookbyAlbertineSarrazin,whowasthen are superior—notonlyforbeingtruebuttheverydepthofthattruth. ) inFrenchGuiana,wherethepurposeofhisexistencefoundnewdefi- werebuiltunderNapoleonIII,who,whenasked,“Whowillguardthese bagnes were alreadyinfamousinFrancethankstothe“Alfred EQUIPMENT MARINE SERVICE SPARES (DUTY FREEPRICES) ENGINES KMRN TEL: (784)4571806FAX:456 1364 Y AMAHA MA Located CALLIAQUA,St.Vincent E-mail: [email protected] PAIE opposite Howard’sMarine P.O. Box17,Kingstown R INE DISTRIBUTOR everyone seemedtowanthelp bagnes annually. LTD NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 A Cruising Guide to the says, “Though Grand Cayman can hardly be classed as says, “Though Grand Cayman , by Jenny Palmer. Macmillan Caribbean, ©2008. Hardback, , by Jenny Palmer. Macmillan OF NOWHERE The Cayman Islands a mystery to most yachtsmen. Although physically The Cayman Islands remain damage Hurricane Ivan inflicted in 2004 on Grenada, Most sailors know about the Stone’s out-of-print classic Jerrems Hart and William are looking for these Sounds like the off-the-milk-run type of place many cruisers Available at bookstores or from www.Macmillan-caribbean.com. THE BUSTLING MIDDLE MIDDLE BUSTLING THE color photos throughout, 272 pages. ISBN 978-1-4050-7724-8. £25. color photos throughout, 272 center of the Western Caribbean (about 190 miles north- they are almost in the dead off the usual sailing routes to anywhere. Partly because west of Jamaica), they are the early 18th century made good use of them. of their isolation, pirates in but the numbers of yachts stored or summering there, their awareness because of also smashed into the Cayman Islands as a Category many are not aware that Ivan storm surge. Like Grenada, the Caymans have worked 5 hurricane with a 12-foot hard to recover. portrait, with 140 specially days, and if you are one of them, Jenny Palmer’s island authentic sense of place, but commissioned color photographs (mostly giving an will wet your whistle. Maybe perhaps a few too many proudly featuring her son), on your way to nowhere. you’ll be enticed to make a stop here next time you’re Caribbean and the Bahamas Caribbean and the Bahamas for it has enough amenities and facilities to attract yachts a cruising ground in itself, days or weeks along the gorgeous beach on its gen- a safe and restful stay of several a or within the expansive North Sound, protected by erally sheltered western end, being immensely popular with beach-vacationing tour- formidable barrier reef.” And divers from around the world — as well as being home ists, cruise ships, and scuba of — the Caymans offer just about every kind to numerous artists and craftsmen sailor could want. Oh, and during Pirate Week every goods and services a sybaritic ashore and take the Governor hostage. November, the “pirates” come Caribbean ): bold Josephine’s sheltered upbringing Josephine’s sheltered upbringing Underlying the whole tale is a con- performance in school, Josephine man- performance in school, Josephine after the ages (with only a year’s gap a very death of her father) to follow through traditional educational road to a teach- school exams to university a side of ing career where she sees existed. Trinidad she never realized and, even- Marriage and babies follow with tually, a career more in keeping her personality and character. and dysfunctional family didn’t help to make her a happier person. Her father abandoned his wife and seven children when Josephine was small. He visited on occasion and supported them financially but there wasn’t much of an emotional connection between them until she realizes that he is dying. Her mother taught at the same primary school where Josephine experienced some very miserable moments but the mother failed to come to her aid at those times. With such a poor start in their relationship, no wonder then that Josephine and her mother argued constantly. sciousness of race that I found a little uncomfortable. Josephine herself describes both her Chinese father and is also available SUBBASE AREA Tickles Crown Bay Marina Office Island Marine at Crown Bay Marina Messages Mail & More at Crown Bay Marina Offshore Marine Donkey Diner Keep Me Posted Connections ST. JOHN Coral Bay Cruz Bay Compass on St. Croix. We’ll have a new list of outlets after they get tidied up from Omar! Growing Up Up Growing Readers! When in USVI, pick up your free monthly copy of the PICK UP!

BOOK REVIEW BY ELAINE OLLIVIERRE BY ELAINE BOOK REVIEW at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue appear in Compass tells the story of Josephine Chin, a Trinidadian of mixed Chinese and tells the story of Josephine

Island Water World Frenchtown Deli Bottoms Up Budget Marine Patsy’s Place (Compass Point) Food Center Pirate’s Cove Marina American Yacht Harbor Office Coffee cart “Latte in Paradise” Burrito Bay Deli Island Marine Molly Malone’s Red Hook Mail Service St Thomas Yacht Club Sapphire Marina and Hotel lobby (Sapphire Bay) Marina Market Ahoy, YACHT HAVEN GRAND MARINA BENNER BAY AREA American Yacht Harbor ST. THOMAS RED HOOK AREA Available at bookstores or from www.macmillan-caribbean.com. A glossary helped to explain some Trinidadian colloquialisms but, in any case, theA glossary helped to explain some Trinidadian colloquialisms I did not really enjoy this book, chiefly because I did not like the main character. chiefly because I did not like the main character. I did not really enjoy this book, honestly say that Josephine is the kind of student who As a teacher myself, I can her unrelenting question- Josephine’s self-absorption, evident low self-esteem and

Walking Bi-Racial in Trinidad Bi-Racial Compass book is a quick and easy read. But I got bored too quickly with such a miserable girl. book is a quick and easy read. But I got bored too quickly Walking intelligent, academically very able, but obsessed with would drive me nuts: smart, detriment of a lot of her schoolwork. Despite her erratic boyfriends and sex to the few chapters. If she felt at all ing of her purpose in life did get on my nerves after a the opposite sex. She still rebellious, it didn’t show except in her relationships with her to be a sympathetic char- finished school and did well at college. I never found sessions or some counselling acter; in fact, I kept thinking that regular therapy might help to sort her out! ISBN 978-1-4050678-12. entry to primary school to her life choices as an adult. African ancestry, from her that she cuts her hair into her black mother as racists. Her parents are distressed her sisters are described as an Afro style and becomes more “African”-looking and is “better”. The Trinidadian “more Chinese-looking”, with the implication that this Josephine actually ends white girls at her school are treated as oddities although she meets him as a “sexy up with a light-skinned husband, first described when red man”. NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42

DEAN BARNES they canbeattachedtotheirwarehousereceipt. Our clientscanalsoviewimagesoftheircargoas uments tothecargomovementincludinginvoices. the statusoftheircargoaswellallrelateddoc- system allowsourcustomerstoviewthroughinternet and delivery,warehousingservices.Ourcargo ing, courierservice,inlandcarriersamedaypick-up es, freightlogisticmanagement,bondedwarehous- — regattas organizedbyseason/month,yachtracing gallery andextensivelistoflinks—toCaribbean has definedhislifeandcarriedhimaroundtheglobe. and strategistatthehighestlevelsofsportthat him tocompeteasaprofessionalhelmsman,tactician his talentforsailingintoafull-timecareerthatallows what welove,”saysHolmberg,whohassinceshaped Caribbean forsailorslikemetoearnalivingdoing sailing, therewerefew,ifany,opportunitieswithinthe 100- to175-footrange. Regattas, designedtoaccommodateyachtsinthe Superyacht CupAntiguaandSt.BarthsBucket superyacht racingcircuit,whichincludesthe Week,” saysHolmberg. BVI (SpringRegatta),and(Stanford)AntiguaSailing Regatta), St.Thomas(InternationalRolexthe Caribbean’s premierevents:St.Maarten(Heineken right afterJanuary’sKeyWestRaceWeektodothe Sardinia —peopleweretalkingaboutheadingsouth making worldtours. slots ontheracingcalendaroftopIRC-ratedyachts tively withtheUSEastCoastandEuropeforseasonal profile eventsofsufficientcalibertocompeteeffec- yacht-racing circuitthatnowfeaturesseveralhigh- Holmberg, onthegrowthofCaribbean’ssignature his homeintheUSVirginIslandsisbased,part,says sailing business. September withthelaunchofhisnewweb-basedpro- America’s Cupcampaignwerelaidtorestin Peter Holmbergmightbereadytoembarkonanother 12:00 noon. through Friday.OnSaturday,westayopenuntil e-mail: [email protected] VHFCh16/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527 (evenings) (northern sideofAdmiralty Bay) Located oppositeG.Y.E. Come inandseeusforallyour CIRExpress isopenfrom8:30 Weofferinternationalocean-andair-freightservic- Yachting enthusiastswillalsoenjoythesite’sphoto “Twentyyearsago,whenImadethemovetopro- Holmberg willalsocampaignanewboatinthe “Everywhere Iracedthissummer—fromNewportto The decisiontooperatehispro-sailingbusinessfrom Carol Bareutherreports:AnyrumorsthatSt.Thomas’ USVI’s PeterHolmbergLaunchesPro-SailingBusiness For moreinformationseeadonpage52.

Continued frompage9 SAILS &CANVASSAILS BIMINI &DODGER GRENADINES including CUSTOM-MADE BEQUIA framesatcompetitiveprices AM to5:30 SAILS &CANVAS PM stainless steel , Monday REPRESENTATIVE needs CD fromamazon.com. for adventure. is aformertravelwriterwhosharesJohn’slust So itisfittingthatthetabloidprotagonistofmynovel Adventure Travel,RealPeople kind character,aboutwhomIwrotearticlesfor story. Caldwellisgonenow,buthewasaone-of-a- the island,inspiredmy“whatif”offbeatadventure firing overtheirheadsastheyattemptedtolandon Grenada intervention.Histalkofresistinginvaders,by stage theirhelicoptersonPalmIslandduringthe throughout theGrenadines,andletUSMarines work. Heplanted8,000coconutpalmtreesbyhand swamp intoaresortparadiseafter20yearsofhard only tosettlethereandturnthemosquito-infested (“Coconut Johnny”),amanwhosailedtheworld partly basedonthetruestoryofJohnCaldwell, Yacht SecurityandtheDominicaMarineAssociation. a proudmemberofthePortsmouthAssociation to theyachtingcommunity.CabritsDiveCentreisalso located inPortsmouthandofferingrendezvousdiving your underwateradventure. Bay, soyouhaveamultiplicityofoptionsforbooking dedicated yachtserviceprovidersinPrinceRupert Channel 16allseasonandworkingcloselywiththe worry —CabritsDiveCentrewillbemonitoringVHF Chardonnay! Feelingtoorelaxedtomove?Don’t ping onalatteorenjoyingnicecoldKubuli moorage area. and aEuropeancoffeeshoprightinfrontofthemain trip reservations;snorkelequipmentretailandrentals; Dive CentreLagoonBranchwillofferdiveandsnorkel next toBigPapa’sSportsBar&Restaurant,Cabrits Situated atthenorthendofPrinceRupertBay,right Café inLagoon,PortsmouthonNovember1st. announce theopeningofCabritsDiveCentreand LagoonBranch,Dominica resource forplanningannualraceprograms. nas, andUSVirginIslandstourism—providedasa news mediaworldwide,weather,yachtclubs,mari- Grenadines isthesettingformynovel Fame Island Grenadines-Based AudioNovelAvailable For [email protected]. Cabrits DiveCentreisa5StarPADIdivecentre Pop inandbookyourdiveorsnorkeltripwhilesip- Cabrits DiveCentreinDominicaispleasedto Cabrits DiveCentreandCafé, For moreinformationvisitwww.peterholmberg.com. Jonathan Lowewrites:PalmIslandinthe isavailableasanaudiodownloador , and pro-sailing business own Caribbean launched his at thehelm,has Peter Holmberg, Cruising World cruise throughSt.Vincent,GrenadaandtheGrenadines. Come alongsideoursplendidjettyandreplenishyour ENTERPRISE Fame Island A steppingstoneasyou B &CFUELS Petite Martinique Welcomes youto For furtherinformationcallGlenn Clementor supplies of Reynold Belmar.Tel/Fax:(473) 443-9110 at thecheapestpricesinGrenadines. Call sign:“GolfSierra”VHFchannel 16 , . to Antiguawilldepartatapproximately1:00 Montserrat takinguptofourhours.Thereturnjourney Fridays andSaturdays,withthetriptoLittleBayin Antigua atabout8:00 with fullinstructiongivenfornovices. take anactivepartinallaspectsofsailingtheyacht, ocean racingyacht.Guestswillbeencouragedto OnDeck willoffersailingtripstoMontserratonan www.horizonyachtcharters.com. the fastestgrowingone-designfleetinCaribbean. modified J/24swithspacious,opencockpits.Theyare ent overnightstopsintheBritishVirginIslands.IC24sare as mothershipsparticipantsraceandcruisetodiffer- the MasterclasssessionsandHorizonyachtswillbeused Identical IC24sfromRacinginParadisewillbeusedfor Racing Masterclass,May10ththrough17th,2009. Olympic silvermedalist,PeterHolmberg,tooffera Alinghi number-one rankedmatchracer,America’sCup Racing inParadisehaveteamedupwithformerworld unique packageforracingenthusiasts.Horizonand MasterclassPackage visit www.mybacaribbeanshow.com. Taste ofSt.Maarten,andaConcoursduChef. brokers. Specialeventswillinclude“yachthops”,A range ofluxurycharteryachtsandtheircrewstoyacht place December6ththrough9th,2008,tointroducea on Montserratvisitwww.visitmontserrat.com. www.ondeckoceanracing.com. Formoreinformation The tripsareopentoguestsofallsailingabilities. mum of15guestsinadditiontoitsprofessionalcrew. buried remainsofthecapitalPlymouth. Observatory, aboattouraroundtheislandtosee ing, horsebackriding,avisittotheMontserratVolcano island tours,rainforesttrekking,scubadivingorsnorkel- visitors willbeofferedsight-seeingoptionsincluding same dayorspendmoretimeinMontserrat.Stay-over yacht passengerscanchoosetoreturnAntiguathe those samedays,takinguptofivehours. A newwaytovisitMontserrat! FUEL,OIL,WATERandICE The yacht,aFarr65,departsFalmouthHarbourin From December1st,theAntigua-basedcompany Racing YachtTripsfromAntiguatoMontserrat For moreinformationvisit Horizon YachtCharters(BVI)hasannounceda Horizon YachtCharters’BVIRacing For moreinformation The fifthannualSt.MaartenCharterShowwilltake St. MaartenCharterYachtShow For moreinformationonOnDecksailingtripsvisit OnDeck’s yachttripscanaccommodateamaxi- The tripshavebeendesignedtobeflexible,so team helmsman, Maxi World champion and team helmsman,MaxiWorldchampionand AM onMondays,Wednesdays, PM on NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of are now back as DVDs. Street’s videos, first made in 1985, down through the islands and down through the REAL SAILORS REAL SAILORS Street’s Guides are available NEW! the coast of Venezuela to the ABCs. the coast of Venezuela to the STREET’S GUIDES STREET’S information on tracking and securing for a storm. Written by an author with 50 years of sailing with 50 years of sailing Written by an author at bookshops and chandleries, or from cover the Eastern Caribbean from Puerto Rico Caribbean from Puerto Rico cover the Eastern BUY STREET’S GUIDES BUY STREET’S All are available via Armchair Sailor and Bluewater Books. www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com experience in the Caribbean, the series’ four volumes Caribbean, the series’ four experience in the ARE MORE ECONOMICAL! ARE MORE HURRICANE TIPS! Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. • “Transatlantic with Street” documents a sailing passage from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours • “Antigua Week ’85” is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour • “Street on Knots” demonstrates the essential knots and line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour Th . The soft — ti tamales d would get a piece of ham — if would get a kth b parranderos k l f I ti t by Jo-Anne Nina Sewlal i ) with spices such as cinnamon and cloves and straining the mixture. For d CHRISTMAS bk (coconut frond spine) with string were used as decorations. Artificial flowers are are string were used as decorations. Artificial flowers (coconut frond spine) with

cocyea k Christmas breakfast consisted Christmas breakfast consisted

Hibiscus sabdariffa of black pudding and hops bread of black pudding and hops th uring my travels, when I compare cultures with the people I meet, most of them comment that we most of them comment with the people I meet, when I compare cultures uring my travels, about go in the newspapers From August, advertisements Christmas to the extreme. Trinidadians take cake” may be able to smell “black if you close your eyes you types of merchandise, and sales on various am getting a bit ahead of myself. baking. But I

PAST AND PRESENT PAST AND What you have to remember is that times were very hard during the early part of the 20th century and some of What you have to remember is that times were very hard during the early part of the 20th century and some When it comes to drinks, we usually make pretty, red sorrel, which is made from boiling the sepals of the sorrel When it comes to drinks, we usually make pretty, red sorrel, which is made from boiling the sepals of the sorrel these The most exciting part of all the weeks and months of Christmas preparations in Trinidad is that most of Some other types of food eaten at Christmas are from a variety of cultures that have occupied the islands at some Some other types of food eaten at Christmas are from a variety of cultures that have occupied the islands at Another method, usually reserved for small households, was to place the baking tin in a pot on an outdoor fire.Another method, usually reserved for small households, was to place the baking tin in a pot on an outdoor Using a clay oven was quite a process, in that first a fire had to be lit inside in order to heat up the clay. When Using a clay oven was quite a process, in that first a fire had to be lit inside in order to heat up the clay. When Even the way the cakes were baked was interesting. If you were lucky back then, you possessed a tin oven. These When it came to food, like most cultures at special times you would partake of those that were quite expensive When it came to food, like most cultures at special times Sometimes it seemed as though everyone was in the yard doing something. The women were boiling the Sometimes it seemed as though everyone was in the When do we get the time to do all of this? Well, the answer is “when we can”, be it after work or school. And answer is “when we can”, be it after work or school. And When do we get the time to do all of this? Well, the In the past there was a lot of pride taken in the furniture owned, particularly since it was very expensive to In the past there was a lot of pride taken in the furniture Also, when Trinidadians paint for Christmas they paint everything — inside and outside. The entire house is Also, when Trinidadians paint for Christmas they paint Having fresh floral arrangements was not a common practice in the past, so flowers made from crepe paper and made from crepe paper and was not a common practice in the past, so flowers Having fresh floral arrangements Most of us like brand-new curtains, and it is not uncommon to see people with packs of ready-made panel cur- curtains, and it is not uncommon to see people with Most of us like brand-new Christmas celebrations in Trinidad really begin in September or October with the start of the parang season, with the start of the begin in September or October in Trinidad really Christmas celebrations a hint of a chill. is the “Christmas Breeze”, which to me has To others the first sign of Christmas household must be perfect that we have the habit that everything in a Trinidadian I do agree with the observation E

D TRINI TRINI the holiday practices we retain from those days may seem primitive by our current standards. But that does noth- the holiday practices we retain from those days may seem primitive by our current standards. But that does or ing to take away from the Christmas spirit. But whether these traditional activities have remained the same have just been modified, when it comes to Christmas in Trinidad, “we don’t make joke”! fruit (roselle, or activities — the painting, cooking, baking and decorating — ends up getting done on Christmas Eve. cornmeal dough is rolled to form a thin circle and vegetables or meats such as beef or pork are placed in the cornmeal dough is rolled to form a thin circle and vegetables or meats such as beef or pork are placed been middle, and then wrapped in the dough. The parcel is then wrapped in pieces of banana leaves that have min- boiled to sterilize them and to make them pliable. The wrapped parcels are tied with string and boiled for 45 into a utes to an hour. We also make paimees. Here the cornmeal mixture used to make the pastelles is formed ball, wrapped the same way and boiled. with ginger beer, the ginger roots are either grated or smashed using a mortar and pestle, and placed in a jug days. cloves and water and left overnight. In the old days the ginger mixture would be placed in the sun for a few non- What has always been a staple is Peardrax (a pear-flavoured soft drink), which was and still is treated as alcoholic champagne. point in history. These include black pudding (blood sausage) from our British ancestors. A traditional “ole time” point in history. These include black pudding (blood sausage) from our British ancestors. A traditional “ole bun). Christmas breakfast consisted of black pudding and hops bread (you can think of it as a tough hamburger At Christmas time, we make pastelles, an indigenous Amerindian food that the Mexicans call The pot was covered with a small sheet of “galvanise” (metal) and a fire built on top of this to simulate the action ofThe pot was covered with a small sheet of “galvanise” (metal) and a fire built on top of this to simulate the action an oven. this had been reduced to ashes the oven was swept out and the breads and pastries placed inside. A wooden door this had been reduced to ashes the oven was swept out and the breads and pastries placed inside. A wooden would was put in place and the space around the door was sealed with wet cloth bags. Not everyone in the village or own a clay oven and you would have to use your neighbours’, which meant paying a user fee (usually 25 cents, tins, one of the breads or pastries). So it was not unusual to see a line of people with their ingredients and baking waiting their turn to use the oven. large square ovens were placed on top of the burners of kerosene stoves, the object being that the hot tin would bakelarge square ovens were placed on top of the burners of kerosene stoves, the object being that the hot tin would the contents inside. If you didn’t have a kerosene stove, you would place it on an outdoor fire or use a clay oven. as well as not present all year round. Common examples included fruits such as apples, grapes and pears. These as well as not present all year round. Common examples Christmas time. Other items on a typical Christmas were a luxury, as they were rarely imported except around cake, sweet bread, and black cake, the latter being the menu included a variety of desserts such as sponge soaked in rum, and after baking preserved by pouring Caribbean version of a fruitcake. This is filled with fruits some rum on it every few days. Christmas ham in a biscuit tin (salted crackers used to come in large square metal tins) on an outdoor fire. The Christmas ham in a biscuit tin (salted crackers used steps and floors had been painted, as well as the walls, children played outdoors, the reason being that the house who would want to with all the hustle, bustle and excite- so that you could not go inside even if you wanted to. And ment going on in the yard? when the school vacation rolls around, well, then there is even more activity with the children pitching in with is even more activity with the children pitching in with when the school vacation rolls around, well, then there the preparations. obtain. So every year around Christmas time all the furniture would get a coat of varnish while the wooden floors obtain. So every year around Christmas time all the furniture stuck, because amidst the celebrations the homeowners got a coat of lacquer. Many a time guests have become varnished! Last-minute painting has always seemed to be a forgot to notify them that the furniture had just been tradition of a Trini Christmas. turned inside out and in each room the furniture is piled in the middle while the walls are being painted. turned inside out and in each room the furniture is piled still popular. secured to a strand of tains piled up in their arms, or in the process of deciding which colour will go best with a piece of furniture or wall or in the process of deciding which colour will go best tains piled up in their arms, up last year so as not to buy the to remember what colour combination they hung colour, or sometimes just trying big day or on Christmas Eve. treasures get hung up a few weeks before the same thing again. These brand-new which continues until 6th of January. Especially popular in Trinidad and Tobago, parang is a genre of Caribbean and Tobago, parang is a popular in Trinidad until 6th of January. Especially which continues lyrics, but now they religious (Christian) Traditionally the songs contain origins in South America. folk music with Singing parang celebrations in the country. surrounding the Christmas of topics and customs include a variety caroling. At each house, the house was our version of from house to not uncommon to see furniture new curtains, furniture and appliances. It is for Christmas Day. This includes machines. (Of course, when delivering new sofa sets or refrigerators and washing trucks parked outside of houses, these same homes if the new it is another common sight to see “repo” trucks outside the holiday season is over sales that follow the holidays.) The furniture ends up in “scratch and dent” owners failed to make the payments. the ham was not ready they would just get a drink. Nowadays, parang is more often done on a national competition is more often done on a a drink. Nowadays, parang ready they would just get the ham was not level except in some rural communities. level rather than at a community NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 of thebeston you willenjoycocktailsmostdelightful,thestaffwelcomingandmeals,some blestone buildingwhereyoumayfindBasil’sRestaurant andBar. Airconditioned, BASIL’S BAR: Visitors toStVincent areinvitedto: beginsat8:00 4, 2009.Breakfastservice Basil’s BarishomeandoriginatoroftheMustiqueBluesFestival, January21-February fasts. NowequippedwithWIFIyoucanenjoysunsetcocktailsandcatchupontheweb. offering thefreshestseafood,steaksandpastasfordinner. Terrific lunchesandbreak- tion. Recently renovatedthenewfaceofBasil’sBarinMustiqueisallthatandmore World’s Ten BestBarsin1987byNewsweekmagazineandtodaylivesuptothattradi- BASIL’S BARANDRESTAURANT: Visitors toMustiqueareinvitedto: Shipping iseasilyand a magnificentcollectionoffurnitureandhomeaccessoriesfromAsia. India -contemporarypiecesandfabulouslighting.AcrossForever has ACROSS FOREVER: sauces andgourmetjams.Importedcigars.F Great GeneralStore-stocked withfineFrench wines,cheesesfromEurope, BASIL’S GREAT GENERAL STORE: plus lotsofT-shirts totake home.Basil’sBoutiquealsoofferssilverandgemstonejewelry. island joy. Elegantislandevening andplayfuldaywear. For women,menandchildren, BASIL’S BOUTIQUE Wednesday nightJumpupandBBQ.Call784-488-8350orVHF68. Dinner at7:30untillate.CometoBasil’sforCocktailsanytimeandplanattendthe

Mustique Visit Basil’sinMustiqueorSt.Vincent www.basilsbar.com [email protected]

the island. InStVincent -neartheportofKingstownisan18thcenturycob- WE SHIPAROUNDTHEWORLD! Basil’s Bar efficiently arranged. Fabrics asbrighttheseaandlightair... perfectfor Imagine,decoratingyourhomewithAntiquesfromBaliand Call 784-457-2713 Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the Basil’s BarinMustiquewasnamedoneofthe AM Call 784-488-8407 There is nothing general about Basil’s There isnothinggeneralaboutBasil’s ine foodsinP , Lunch is served 11:00 , Lunchisserved aradise. Call 784-488-8407 AM -6 PM , UrchinOmelet White Sea bits thatlookliketongues. with aknifeandliftthetoptoexposeinsides.Theediblepartsareorangey The eggsorroeofthewhiteseaurchincanbeeatenrawcooked. sharp, brittlespinescanbreakoffinyourskinandleaveapainful,irritatingwound.) it withthehazardouslong-spinedblackseaurchin[ to aboutfiveinchesindiameterandhashalf-inch-longwhitespines.(Don’tconfuse Ministry ofFisheries. countries. Beforeyouharvestany,check thecurrentregulationswithlocal the letterRinthem.Therearerestrictions ontakingseaurchinsinmanyCaribbean wear gloveswhenhandlingtheurchins, andbonappetit! be addedrightaftertheeggmixturehas beenpouredovertheseaurchinmixture. scraping thesidesaswithnormalomeletstoallowevencooking. until itfirmsup,thenaddwhiskedeggmixtureontopandturntheheatdown, set toonesidealongwiththreechoppedspringonions(orchives). urchins wouldbeenoughforonebigomelet. needs tobehandledwithcare.Dependingontheirsize,theroefrom12 18 of shellandseaweed.Refrigerateifnotusingrightawayastheroeisdelicate and Look forthemonshallowreefsduringtheday.Gentlycrackaroundseaurchin Often calledthe“seaegg”,whiteseaurchin( PS Somesaythatyoushouldonlyeatsea urchinsduringthemonthsthathave This is“funfood”asitinvolvessnorkeling andagoodbitofgiggling!Besureto This omeletisdifficulttofold,sosimply cutitinquarterstoserve. Grated Swisscheesemeltedontopisnice, alsosomechoppedparsley;theseshould Melt 2Tablespoonsbutter(oroil)inafryingpan.Sautétheroewithspringonion Prepare anomeletmixtureoffourwhiskedhen’seggs,milk,saltandpepper Scoop thesegentlyfromtheinsideofshellandwashthoroughlytoremovebits by JudySimmons Tripneustes ventricosus Diadema antillarum ) cangrow ], whose NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 s Mustique ’ and Choice Meats and Choice Sunday: 9am to 12pm Sunday: 9am to in the Grenadines. in the Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230 Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) Monday-Saturday: 8am to 12pm & 3pm to 6pm 8am to Monday-Saturday: Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables Fruits, Vegetables Cheeses, Fresh Fine Wine, Corea THE FOOD STORE STORE THE FOOD Your #1 Choice for Provisioning Provisioning Choice for #1 Your

: Fresh produce is always on hand when you make your own sprouts Treat SPROUTS A Healthy A Healthy Shipboard Shipboard

by Ross Mavis Turn the kids on to healthy sprouts, too. Add them to peanut butter sandwiches. Don’t try to grow too much in a jar at once, as crowding will curtail growth and Your greens will be ready in two to six days, depending on what is being grown. I 4) Rinse seeds or grain at least twice daily until ready to harvest. It’s important 3) Carefully rinse the sprouts again the next day, using slightly warm fresh water. 2) Cover the rinsed seeds or grain with double their volume in tepid water. Place Follow these four easy steps for great sprouts: 1) In a clean Mason jar, rinse about 1/4 Cup of untreated grain or one Tablespoon Our guests on board for the weekend marveled at how these newly harvested Our guests on board for the weekend marveled at how these newly harvested Popular sprouts include clover, radish, onion, alfalfa, wheat, oats, corn, lentils, Popular sprouts include clover, radish, onion, alfalfa, Another major benefit of sprouting is that a garden plot is not required to grow a Another major benefit of sprouting is that a garden plot Years ago, sprouted grains and seeds of many kinds helped storm-stayed settlers and seeds of many kinds helped storm-stayed settlers Years ago, sprouted grains I remember the first sprouts of my hippie days. Shoulder-length hair and mung- I remember the first sprouts They provide a delicious, moist crunch to the nuttiness of creamy peanuts. sometimes promote rotting through poor air circulation. Sprouts keep well in the refrigerator or icebox for a few days. Try sprouts in omelets or salads for great taste and visual results. A wispy nest of onion or radish sprouts is delicious when cradling a scoop of chicken or shrimp salad as a light luncheon entrée. prefer the tender, sweet, young sprouts to the older, nuttier flavour of sprouts aged for three or more days. If you like your sprouts leafy green, then expose the glass jar to sunlight for the last few hours of their growth before harvesting them. that they be drained properly as rot will occur if they are left submerged. Rinse again if necessary to remove any foam or froth formed as the seeds swell. the open jar in a dark pantry cupboard away from cold or excessive heat — between 20°C and 26°C (68°F to 79°F) is best — and allow them to soak overnight or for at least four hours. of seed with lukewarm, fresh water. sprouts tasted so delicious. Don’t worry about looking slightly like a sheep chew- ing a mouthful of field greens. The taste results are worth any embarrassment or inconvenience. millet, barley, rice and shelled sunflower or pumpkin seeds, plus beans and peas of millet, barley, rice and shelled sunflower or pumpkin content into sugars and several varieties. Sprouting tends to turn carbohydrate early on. The spicy flavor of resulting sprouts are fairly sweet when harvested addition to sandwiches sprouted mustard, onion and radish seeds is a wonderful and salads. continuous supply of leafy green vegetables. A large Mason jar with a screen or continuous supply of leafy green vegetables. A large for a family’s sprouts. cheesecloth covering the jar’s mouth is a perfect greenhouse A cool, dark shelf or cup- Several jars can be used for a supply of different greens. Use organically grown raw board in the galley is the perfect place for incubation. from alfalfa to zucchini seed seed for the best germination results. Almost everything sprout tomatoes or potatoes, can be sprouted for nutritious eating. However, don’t as they’re toxic in that form. weather long periods of isolation. Sea voyages by explorers and sailors were facili- weather long periods of isolation. Sea voyages by explorers rich in vitamin C. Recent tests tated by consuming beer brewed from sprouted grain as much vitamin C as six indicate that one half cup of soybean sprouts contains complex, when sprouted, can glasses of citrus juice. Grains containing vitamin B increase their vitamin C con- double or even triple their initial potency. Whole oats tent by up to six times when sprouted. bean sprout sandwiches with sunflower seeds and honey-tofu dressing were the sunflower seeds and honey-tofu dressing were bean sprout sandwiches with are Since then, sprouts have come a long way and order of the day in the Sixties. both on shore and off. now making a popular comeback, NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 Caribbean to tellouradvertisers JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up ' )% " & % ' ! " #$%& ' (%% you sawtheirad in ☛ $* *'%') % *'%% %'* + %%' % ')

REMEMBER

Compass Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage:

HALL for seek outthehottest. there arepersonswholovetheburnofpepperand spicy flavorwithoutsearingyourtongue.However spicy food.Ifpreparedcorrectly,pepperscanadda such a“hotmouth”,asTrinidadianscalllovefor to stopmefromsuckingthem.Iguessthat’showgot with hotpepperwaswhenMamaputitonmyfingers life-long affairwiththisfieryspice.Myfirstexperience of hotpeppers,butifyougetpastitcanhavea Hot Stuff: per” whena“flavorpepper”iscalledfor! peppers available—youdon’twanttouse a“birdpep- market vendorstoexplainyoutherange offresh Caribbean grocerystore,marketandgift shop.Ask variety ofcolors,flavorsandtemperatures —inevery you canfindpeppersauce—inanalmost infinite from theTabascopepperandtookits name. Today, first popularcommercialhotpeppersauce wasmade pickled orinpeppersauceandeven jelly.The E, andalsosomeBs.Theycanbeeaten fresh,dried, sure andforgetsthespicypain. the painofpepper.Thebrainremembersplea- endorphins. Thesepleasurechemicalsremainafter brain toproducenaturalpleasurechemicalscalled the bodyintoexperiencingpain.Capsiacincauses capsiacin kitchen gloveswhenhandlinghotpeppers. burn eyesorskinwhenhandled.Manypeoplewear the pepper.Alltypesofhotpeppersemitoilthatcan fresh. Theseedsandmembranearethehottestpartof to afieryredcolor.Driedpeppersareevenhotterthan shape andcolor.Thehottestpeppersusuallymature and thejalapeño.Thesepeppertypesvaryinsize, (habanero), thelongredCayennechili(fromGuyana), Congo), thebirdpepper(penguin),fierysevenpot example, growstheScotchBonnet(alsocalled duced anassortmentofhotpeppertypes.Trinidad,for American originisforgotten. South AmericancountryChile),eventhoughtheir India. AllpeppersinIndiaarecalled“chilis”(fromthe Portuguese sailorsplantedhotpeppersinAsiaand over Europeandthespicepaprikawasborn.By1600, growing peppers.Acenturylaterthepepperhadwon ern spicemarket.Bythemid-1500s,Englandwas the climatepermitsandarebiggesthitofmod- Five centurieslater,hotpeppersaregrowneverywhere per, whenhestumbleduponthepotenthotpepper. searching forspicesoftheEast,especiallyblackpep- directly toChristopherColumbus.Theexplorerwas vated thehotpepper,usingitmainlyformedicines. 3,000 yearsbeforeChrist.TheIncasandAztecsculti- a vinegrowninAsia. mon tabletopcondiments,isgroundfromtheseedsof peppers. Blackpepper,oneoftheworld’smostcom- per. Blackpepperhasnothingincommonwithhot family, whichalsoproducesthesweet,greenbellpep- Many peoplehaveabad,mouth-burningfirsttaste Hot pepperscontainhighlevelsofVitaminsA,Cand Why doestheworldhaveahotmouth?Itseems Due tovariousclimatesandsoils,naturehaspro- The Caribbean’spassionforpepperscanbetraced The hotpepperoriginatedintropicalAmericasabout The hotchilipepperisthespicysideofCapsicum A Passion , theactiveingredientofhotpeppers,fools Peppers SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL fish dishes. low heatfortenminutes.Servewithchicken,beefor Pour blendedmixtureintoasmallpotandcookover add toblenderwithpepper,ginger,honeyandsalt. carding theskin.Peelandseedpapaya,thenslice the seedandspoonmangofleshintoablender,dis- are pungent;yourhandsandeyesmay suffer. changes toyelloworred.Becareful,as if thepeppers soil mustbewelldrained.Harvestwhen the greenfruit Water isthebiggestenemytopeppercultivation —the Once theplantsstarttoflower,use12–12–17–2 mix. izer, agoodpeppertreecanproducefor almost ayear. izer mixeverythreeweeks.Ifyouarelight onthefertil- larly. Peppersthriveonlightdosesof20–20-20 fertil- forked bed.Plantaboutafootapartand waterregu- six inchestall,transplanttheseedlings toawell- trays, usingseedsfrompeppersyoulike.Whenfourto utes. Thiscanbepuréedorbottledjustasitis. while addingremainingingredients.Simmerfivemin- in oliveoil.Addketchupandhalfthevinegar.Boil one ortwoofthethree.Lightlyfrypeppersandgarlic minutes. Makesurethereisplentytoquenchyourthirst! Place inacoveredovendishandbakeat350°Ffor20 ingredients andusethismixturetostuffthepeppers. can combinebeforeserving. Add tobeefmix.Letsitfortenminutessotheflavors and simmerfor15minutes. per, onions,garlic,spices,andspinach.Bringtoaboil Drain andblend.Tothebeefitsbroth,addpep- bring totheboil.Thensimmerfor1hour. Add chicken,heatthroughandserve. Cook onlowheatstirringconstantlyfor30minutes. with thebutterandflour.Mixinpepperblend. spices andblenduntilsmooth.Inapotheatthemilk in ablenderwithonions,garlic,chickenbrothand they cool.)Thenremovestemsandseeds. cool. (Thisisdonesononeofthetasteevaporatesas them inacleanbrownpaperbagandsealuntilthey ing untilallsidesareblisteredandbrowned.Place Remove seedsfromhotpepper.Slicemangos salt totaste 1 Tablespoonhoney 1 Tablespoongratedgingerroot 1 smallgreen-but-about-to-ripenpapaya 2 starchorrosemangos 1 hotpepper Mango Heat Peppers areeasytogrow.Isuggeststartingthemin For theGardener If youcan’tgetallthreetypesofpeppers,useany 1 Tablespoonfreshlemonjuice 1/2 smallunripepapaya,peeled,seededandcubed 1 1/2Cupswhitevinegar 2 Tablespoonsketchup 2 Tablespoonsoliveoil 3 clovesofgarlic,minced 2 jalapeñopeppers 2 Cayennepeppers 4 Congopeppers Simple PepperSauce Remove topsandseedsfrompeppers.Mixremaining 1/4 CupgratedCheddarcheese 1/4 Cupbreadcrumbs 1 clovegarlic,minced 1 mediumonion,finelychopped Two dozenjalapeñopeppers Chili PepperPoppers In thethirdpot,fryochroinbutteruntilbrowned. In thesecondpot,boilspinachfortenminutes. In thefirstpot,coverbeefcubeswithwaterand 2 Tablespoonsbutter 1/4 poundochro(okra),sliced salt andspicetotaste 4 clovesofgarlic,minced 2 mediumonions,chopped 1 hotpepper,seeded 1 poundspinach,chopped 1 1/2poundsbonelessbeef,cubed 3 PotPepperSoup This couldbetoohot! Sauté onionandgarlicintheoliveoil.Putpeppers Heat oilinafryingpan.Putwholepeppers,turn- 2 Tablespoonsflour 3 Tablespoonsbutter 2 Cupsmilk salt andspicestotaste 1 Cupcubedcookedchicken(boneless) 2 Cupschickenbroth 2 clovesgarlic,minced 1 mediumonion,chopped 1 brownpaperbag 6 Congopeppers 1 Tablespoonoliveoil Smoking PepperSoup

NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 tel: 440-2310 tel: business grenada insurance it is too late. Marine Fax DM Street Fax DM Street or unsatisfactorily settled, Insurance Then, if the claim is denied www.street-iolaire.com insurance. You never know how good The insurance business has changed. insurance, but there is no good cheap No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather, the honest broker can only say, your insurance is until you have a claim. There is good insurance, there is cheap “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” settlement record cannot be beat. Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 - 33927 or e-mail: [email protected] I have been in the e-mail: [email protected] Jewelry, Wooden-Ware & Hammocks exotic arts + crafts interior design young street st. georges

rare + 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims article. In Compass edition: Compass , Compass Given the experience, I do not view St. Kitts/Nevis as I do not view St. Kitts/Nevis Given the experience, letter about the Tobago Thanks for publishing my please read what Chris However, as a clarification, is about moorings, which “A lot of the New Agreement Despite TCMP’s Education Officer’s reply to my letter The moorings couldn’t have been installed to protect To protect the reef? Yachts never anchor on the reef; So I still don’t know, specifically, what the moorings I do feel bad about my comments regarding the fact I Again, the need of money to protect the park should A continuing dialogue about these things is good — it My understanding is that Tom van t’Hof’s ECLAC I also was once adamantly opposed to moorings in the Additionally, there were requests for moorings from some I believe that these are among the reasons behind other words, the placing of a limited number of moorings in the TCMP is a compromise. Sally —Continued on next page reality — quite rigid, in fact. But more to the point, the rigid, in fact. But more to reality — quite and we do not their exact requirements, islands vary in all — if such with us that lists them carry a publication and whodo you find these publications, exists. Where have to come hunting for them? You spends the time already! them and then you’re illegal ashore to find and I am for happy-go-lucky cruisers, an inviting place poorer. opinion — as well as much entitled to my Betty Fries S/V Forever Young Dear think Chris Doyle is a wise Cays in the October issue. I moorings before making man, waiting to see the new on his anchor than on comments, and relying more the moorings! wrote in a 2004 the most knowledgeable is strange considering that National Park — Tom van’t report on the Tobago Cays Cays Marine Park’, an Hof’s ‘Evaluation of the Tobago of the government of ECLAC study done at the request and published in 2002 St. Vincent & the Grenadines most part, yacht moorings — states clearly that, for the for the park. (It are COMPLETELY UNNECESSARY may be necessary to the mentions that a few moorings yachts, but that where west of the islands for larger most yachts currently anchor, they are unnecessary.) This is a fact that is obvious to all of us who sail there. Furthermore, in the New Agreement, the moorings have spread from the Tobago Cays to Mayreau and Union. Now, the idea of placing moorings in various Grenadine anchorages, whether done by PIRL or others, may have merit. But it should have nothing to do with a plan for the Tobago Cays National Park.” last month, I am still unclear about what, exactly, the moorings in the Tobago Cays are protecting. If moorings are required to protect the marine environment, why is their use optional and why is anchoring still allowed? the turtle’s seagrass feeding area because this has already been protected for a year, thanks to a line of floating boys. it’s too shallow, and bad holding, and of course, most of them know this causes severe damage to the coral. are protecting. have never actually seen the Park Rangers engaged in their law enforcement role, checking on dinghies, etcetera. I regret this and apologize to the TCMP’s hard work- ers. Moreover, I have tried to help by personally stopping two boats from illegal fishing in Marine Park waters. not be denied. Rangers, educational programs, scientific surveys, etcetera, all cost money. The park needs, and deserves, adequate funding. Why not simply make the users, and especially charter companies that earn money thanks to the park, participate by raising the park entry fee? But please do not desecrate a pristine marine environment park with mooring buoys! Best regards, Frédéric Dalle, Manager Nemovoile Martinique Dear Frederic, underlines the importance of open communication between the TCMP and its users. study was primarily economic, rather than environmental — ECLAC is the Economic Commission for Latin America and the Caribbean. Tobago Cays Marine Park, mainly for aesthetic reasons, and also because moorings can be problematic if not properly installed and maintained. But some of the TCMP rangers have since told me that occasionally some yachts (notably bareboat catamarans) really did anchor on coral (and on the turtlegrass beds before the buoyed line was installed). Also, environmentalists including the original TCMP manager, who is a marine biologist, told me that silt stirred up by anchors being dropped and pulled up repeatedly has done some damage to some reefs downcurrent. Hopefully the moorings have been installed where they will ameliorate that situation. of the charter companies themselves, to benefit anchoring- challenged bareboaters who might otherwise drag and endanger other boats as well as the environment. putting a limited number of moorings down, but fortunately not the huge number called for under the since discredited “for profit” park management plan that Chris was objecting to in his 2004 Cruising S/Y Forever S/Y Forever (2007 edition) [which]

' “We had the Q flag up; we’d .” This is not a Port of Entry

S , PM R . It appears that those that did did . It appears that those that E “Although we have enjoyed previous M

Readers , , U D A R experience in Nevis, in the October 2008 the October 2008 experience in Nevis, in Compass Compass Compass E O the cruisers’ handy reference, Chris Doyle’s “Given the southeast winds, we arrived at Nevis’ I refer to the article by Betty Fries about I refer to the article by Betty To state that, 3. As previous visitors they knew the opening hours 1. Correct procedures of Customs and Immigration. 2. As experienced yachties they know that it is illegal They admit they have visited Nevis before and are As for southeast winds, that is a red herring: It was their flouting of the normal procedure and Idiots, they are solely responsible for their predicament. By their own admission, “Our local pulled out his cell phone and offered to “After waiting outside the office for 45 minutes, 4. They know where the Police Station is located, but However, I feel this writer really comes over as very The letter writer is right — it was our fault, based on “ FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' Oaulie Bay around 5:30 visits to St. Kitts and Nevis, our experience this time has ruined these islands for us,” is pathetic. To paraphrase the song, they flouted the law, and the law won. Dear Young’s Caribbean Compass not follow proper procedure want to blame Nevis for their fine. of the Customs and Immigration, plus they had a copy of the Customs and Immigration, plus they had a copy of to go ashore without clearing with the authorities. aware of: Charlestown is on the west side of the island. They Charlestown is on the west side of the island. They could have motored if they needed to do so. and is only a few miles from Charlestown on the west and is only a few miles from Charlestown on the west side of the island. acting illegally that got them into trouble. If they did this in the USA or other large country they would be in jail. Bet they would not try it in Colombia, Venezuela, Mexico, or Europe, so why try in Nevis? Best regards, Doug Gillanders Basseterre, St. Kitts Dear go check in first thing in the morning. Unfortunately, over the seven years we’ve been cruising these islands, we’ve become lax in our attention to the proper messages symbols like the Q flag convey. This is a lesson we were soon to relearn.” call his friend in Immigration to come down to Oualie call his friend in Immigration to come down to Oualie and make everything ‘all right’. He also suggested, twice, that we take down the Q flag. Now why would we want to pull an official out of his home after working hours when we can clear in tomorrow morning? We declined his offer.” Glen gave up. After all, normal operating procedure in Glen gave up. After all, normal operating procedure in the BVI, Dominica and the French islands, for example, is for vessels arriving after business hours to check in the next morning.” Okay, maybe, but surely not to go ashore (and take stuff, e.g. fish, ashore) before checking in. chose not to go there. The Officers may have been able chose not to go there. The Officers may have been able to help them (or maybe have informed them to go back aboard and wait until morning). Guide to the Leeward Islands told us, ‘Charlestown Customs open week-days 0800- 1600 and weekends 0900-1300. Go in plenty of time as they may leave early… If you arrive in the afternoon, plan to check in the next morning’.” self-righteous, and not very in touch with our day-to-day previous experience. We “yachties” are used to the climate of benign neglect that the islands have allowed over the years. The attitude encourages cruisers to visit. I believe most of the islands have come to the conclusion that we mean no harm and are a general benefit to the places we stop. We passed Doug’s letter on to Betty for comment, which follows. CC Dear NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 Hi — Dear CC response/hurricane_season. stricken islands,seewww.ifrc.org/what/disasters/ Hi Sean, Sean Fuller age inCuba? those whohavebeenstrickenbythehurricanedam- cubahurricanerelieffund.com toraisedonationsfor publication andcontinuethegoodwork. Dear Crazy inCuraçao Sign me, be legaltogetpermissionleave! another twoweekstogetpermissionstayinorder started thewholeprocessoveragainandhadtospend ly receiveditthetwoweekshadalreadyexpiredsohe he mightwaitforhiswifetoarriveandwhenfinal- back nextweek. while, onlytobetoldgosomewhereelseorcome trying tofindanothersmallofficewaitinfora line, weareallonanenforcedwalkingtourofthecity, of thefactthatwhenwe(thepublic)arenotwaitingin romance fictions!Theywaxecstaticincontemplation offices, whiletheemployeesdotheirnailsorread pride inwatchinglonglinesofpeoplehotcrowded the Curaçaogovernmenttheyseemtotakeacertain people worksforeithertheDutch,orAntillean, mote efficiency,itseems,andherewhereoneinfive in thebestinterestsofanygovernmentsystemtopro- seem toknowexactlywhatisgoingon,either!Itnot en name.Andnoneofthesegovernmentemployees some checkingonthevalidityofyourmother’smaid- folks; youneverknowwhentheymightwanttodo would chokeahorsewhenvisitingthese“bureau” of Willemstad. in, abusfromtheanchoragetogetintomaintown represents anhourortwoeachtripjustwaitingfor, weeks, togetatwo-monthextension.Andofcourseit more thaneightoffices,backandforthforoverthree in Curaçao.Whew,whatabureaucracy!Ihavebeento nance includingsmallrepairjobs.Onthatboat,I stating thatIwashiredtocookanddobasicmainte- the firsttwoyearsofmyjob.Ihadasignedcontract cially women,whotakejobsonyachts. a lessonforthemanyotherSouthAmericans,espe- over theworld. well. Ihavesailedapproximately100,000milesall yacht, whereIlearnedpaintingandvarnishingvery and German.Ihavealsolivedaboardacruising ally educated,andspeakfluentSpanish,English Caribbean. IamColombian-bornandinternation- First thingtosayisthatIthink Sure, thereyouare!Andtodonateotherhurricane- Would itbepossibletomentionthewebsitewww. Is thisanywaytorunacountry? A friendofmineappliedforatwo-weekextensionso One mustcontinuallycarryapileofdocumentsthat I amstilltryingtogetanextensiononmyvisahere The ownerofthecharterboatandIwereacouplefor I haverecentlyexperiencedsomethingthatcouldbe I amtheformercookonayachtcharteringin Continued frompreviouspage Compass Compass, Compass , , Compass isagreat for theextrajobsIdidwhichhavenotreceived. bonuses hepromisedmeforreturnguestsandthepay did not.Ineededthisyearofcharters,especiallythe his inactionsohecansaythatIbrokemycontract. mouthing me.Theownerforcedmetoleavethrough what Itook.Nowambeingtoldthecaptainisbad- did nothing,soIleft—infrontofwitnessestoverify do somethingaboutthecaptainorIwouldleave.He tion” and“seeyounextyear”. est dealing.HejusttoldmeIshould“takealongvaca- about thedangertoboatandcaptain’sdishon- improvement orevenappreciationformywarnings mighty. NothingIsaidtotheownerbroughtany arrived wifeloungedinthesunandplayedhigh I hadaneyeinfection,whilethecaptainandhisnewly boat intheyard.Iworkedextremelyhard,evenwhen had promisedmeextrapayfordoingworkonthe for threeyears. though Ihadbeenhismosttrustedpartnerandcrew He didnothingtosavehisboatorprotectmeeven us untilweleft. been fortheGuardiaCostawhokindlykeptaneyeon protests. Wecouldhavebeeninrealdanger,haditnot gerous bayinEstadoSucre,Venezuela,againstmy private moneytobuyit.Heanchoredinaknowndan- trip, whichtook23days!Eachtimeheborrowedmy for bunkeringandwehadtorefuelfivetimesonthe that gaveusdiarrhea.Heignoredtheowner’sorders from thesmallwatermaker,orpipewaterports days wehadonlybrinywaterthathemanagedtoget Cartagena toTrinidad.Whenitwasfinishedinthree loaded tenlitresofdrinkingwaterforthetripfrom water totheboat—neverenough.Forthreeofushe not understandthewatermakerandwehadtocarry air inthesystemandhadtohireamechanic.Hedid captaining tohim. sage. Heoftentoldmetostayinthegalleyandleave this wouldbemyfourthtimetomakesamepas- about theboatafterthreeyearsbeingfirstmateand refused toacknowledgethatImightknowanything The captainwascompletelyincompetentbuthe sail fromPanamabacktoTrinidad.Itwasafiasco. left. Wedidthescheduledchartersandthenwereto the guestswehadatsametime. attack. Istoodbyhiminthehospitalandtookcareof work withme,butinPanamahehadanearheart return toEuropeandwouldsendahiredcaptain from theowner. they allleftunhappyaboutthetreatmentreceived Colombian womentotheboatworkwithmebut stay aboardonlyascrew.Iwasaskedtobringother side oftherelationshipgottome.WedecidedIwould for theboat’sverysuccessfulbusiness.Butdown- charter business.Iwasoftentoldthatthereason for thefirsttimeinhistoryofboat’sten-year and Icookedwellenoughthatwehadreturnguests did majorpaintingandvarnishjobswithoutextrapay home andIworkedveryhardtomakeherbeautiful. ship haditsupsanddowns,buttheboatwaslikemy an allowanceperguestthatIcookedfor.Therelation- received abasesalaryofUS$400permonthandgot It finallyreachedthatpointwheretheownerhadto When wehauledtheboatoutinTrinidad,owner I calledtheownerandtoldhimwhatwashappening. Contrary tomyadvice,hekilledthegeneratorwith In July,thenewcaptaintookoverandowner In June2008,theownerdecidedthathewould —Continuedonnextpage time intheCaribbean. needed toencourageyachtsstayherefortheir tion andopeningupofthemarineindustryare as inSt.Maarten.However,somesortofderegula- their income. depend upontheyachtingandmarineindustriesfor areas aroundJollyHarbourdirectlyorindirectly dents ofEnglishHarbour,FalmouthHarbourandthe fish non-voters?Letmepointoutthatmanyresi- to usatthedatepromised.Whyisthis?Arewesmall courtesy ofareplyortheyhaveneglectedtogetback On toomanyoccasions,wehavenotevenhadthe comptroller ofCustomsandMinisterHaroldLovell. Marine Association(ABMA),NationalParks,the with andhavesentletterstotheAntigua&Barbuda that comehereduringthecourseofwinter. Antigua &Barbudaconsideringthenumberofyachts vessel. Youcanjudgewhatthatwouldmeanherein mated valueeveryyearonservicingandrunningthe medium-sized yachtwillspendtenpercentofitsesti- and preparedfortheircharterwork.Onaverage,a work performed,provisioning,havingpartsflownin ally spentbyyachtssittinghere,havingmaintenance just theBoatShoworRaceWeek.Themoneyisactu- the marineindustry.Weneedtothinkfurtherthan lated industrieswiththemostlocalpotential,remains One ofthemostignored,neglectedandyetoverregu- ing andencouragingtheirlocalindustries. Barbuda shouldbelookingintodiversifying,expand- criminal eventsduringthepastsummer,Antigua& downturn and,toalesserdegree,becauseoflocal try totakeahammeringfromtheworldeconomic October 8,2008editionofthe Colombia Angela Jaramillo So, fellowSouthAmericans,beforewarned! acknowledge mylettersorcommunicatewithme. captain canprotecttheirown.Theownerrefusesto attempts todamagemyreputationsotheownerand of thanksorcompensation,Iampushedasidewith ing. Ididmorethanmycontractrequiredandinstead crew. Noverbalagreementsforextras.Getitinwrit- tions oftheowner/captainincludingtreatment rights andtermsoftermination,butalsotheobliga- Clear contractsneedtoincludecrewpay,duties, that itmightgetbetter. wonder atmyselfforstayingsolongandeverbelieving absurdities Ihavebeenthroughonthisjob.just quite another.Thisletterbarelyskimsthesurfaceof treated asifwehavenorightshumanbeingsis That weworkforlesspayisonething,buttobe who havebeenhorriblydegradedbymenonboats. respect. IknowseveraldecentSouthAmericanwomen American womenareeasy,cheapandnotworthyof treated thisway.FrequentopinionisthatSouth of loyalty.SurelyaEuropeanwouldneverhavebeen good offers,Irefusedbecauseofmycontractandout We arenotadvocatingthesameregulationshere Over thepastyear,wehavehadmanymeetings Unfortunately, thecontraryiscurrentlyhappening. Given thefactthatwecanexpecttourismindus- Dear Editor, The followingletterisreprintedwithpermissionfromthe I wanttobringthistheattentionofcrewhopefuls. Now Iamwithoutajob,outofseason.Whenhad Antigua Sun newspaper: NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 , Readers Readers,

GUY DEAN Compass Compass Continued from previous page Continued from The Compass Crew would like to thank Delma Hazell It is time to open our eyes because we want yachts Legislation pertaining to the marine industry has Legislation pertaining to the Why then would the authorities do everything they Why then would the authorities The authorities in Antigua & Barbuda need to take in Antigua & Barbuda need The authorities With rumours of the application of ABST (sales tax) of the application of ABST With rumours Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Send your letters to: [email protected] or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines We do not publish individual consumer complaints or We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or address, and and Daphne Ollivierre for arranging the use of Caribbean and Daphne Ollivierre for arranging the use of Caribbean stamps from a wonderful international stamp collection for our colorful new Readers’ Forum logo. Thank you! CC Dear to stay here and not only see Antigua & Barbuda as a to stay here and not only see Antigua & Barbuda as a holiday destination. We do not want them to pass us by with their guests and do all their maintenance work and get their supplies in the other islands. Although the hurricane season is starting to wind down, it looks as if there are dark clouds packing over the marine industry in Antigua. S.I. in Falmouth Harbour Antigua Dear not kept up with the times. We should be striving to not kept up with the times. for visiting yachts make it easier and more affordable to us that the yachts to come here. Instead, it seems as cash cows that will are being seen more and more They can, will, and have always be here. Wrong. more mega-yachts in moved away. There are already four years ago. These St. Maarten than were there One well-known yacht will used to be here in Antigua. of the lawlessness never return to Antigua because Harbours over the last apparent in Falmouth/English 18 months. can to sabotage the marine industry with excessive can to sabotage the marine Customs procedures, and bureaucracy, antiquated yachts that are deemed now the threat of ABST on days in Antigua? “resident” if they spend 90 cognisance of the importance of the yachting industry. the importance of the yachting cognisance of illuminat- ago, Ivor Jackson gave a very Several years of the yachting indus- ing presentation on the impact He showed that the yacht- try on Antigua’s economy. by far in excess of ing industry generates revenues ships. that brought in by the cruise to yachts that stay over 90 days in transit, it would be stay over 90 days in transit, to yachts that sees consid- to the industry that already another blow like St. from neighbouring islands erable competition marinas in St. expanding and new major Maarten, and Lucia and Grenada. — individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 4 06Ausa eba,10PYmh $34,900 $167,000 $60,000 $119,000 38’ 1999SeaRaySundancer,mercruisers, 18kts, $69,000 32’ 1996Carver325,twincrusadersgreat condition$99,000 31’ 1999SeaRaySundancer,newengines, 2005$79,900 $79,500 14’ 2006AquascanJetboat,160HPYamaha 43’ 1995Hunter430,steppedtransom,2strms 40’ 1987O’DaySloop,Westerbeke,2strms 40’ 1986HunterLegendroomy,aftcockpit 37’ 2001BavariaSloop,3strms,Yanmardiesel Call, faxorvisitourwebsitefor acompletelistofboatsforsale ST. THOMAS YACHTSALES 44’ 1982TaChiaoCT oao 5 96 Mriiu 127000 169000 179000 Martinique 435000 105000 StMartin StMartin Martinique 120000 Martinique 215000 Martinique Guadeloupe 849000 700000 StMaarten Tobago 351996 Guadeloupe Nautitech 3951999 Lagoon 3802001 Lagoon 4402006 GibSea 432003 Alubat Ovni4352002 Amel Mango1979 Amel 542007LikeNew Halberg Rassy532004 Amel Super Maramu 2000 Amel SuperMaramu2000 2001 - Perfect Condition 2001 -PerfectCondition $89,900 Martinique 320000 Compass PointMarina,6300Est.Frydenhoj,Suite28, www.stthomasyachts.com St. Thomas,U.S.V.I.00802 € Fax: (340)779-2779 Tel: (340)779-1660 [email protected] CATAMARANS Power MONOHULL Sail Martinique 599000 Owner Version-FullOptions LAGOON 500-2006 33’ 1973Pearson10MSloop, $33,500 € (Vat Paid) € € € € € € € € €

definitely looksstrange.” my wifeSuzannasaid,“There’saboatstuckonthereef.It’sstillgotitssailsupbut it passed. definitely notonetobeoutinwhensailingclosereefs.Sowedecidedwaituntil anchored intheTobagoCays,andratherexhilaratingtoweatheratanchor.But we sawtheskiesdarken.Itwassortofsquallonehasfromtimetowhen heading southfortheshorthoptoPalmIsland,butwhilewewerepreparingleave als. Aroundmiddaywedecidedtoupanchorandpickourwaythroughthereef, There wassomecloudaroundbutalsostilllotsofsunnybreakstolightupthecor- round andcollectedtheirfeewegotreadytoenjoythefishcoralsnearby. tered squallsbutnothingtowarnoneoffanormalday’ssailingintheGrenadines. exactly whathesaid.Hemayhavementionedthepossibilityofoccasionalandscat- enthusiast andweatherforecasterEricontheSSBat0630hours.Icannotremember Saltwhistle Bay,Mayreau,foramorningattheTobagoCays.Wecaughthamradio there pastthewindward(eastern)sideofPalmIsland. Tobago CaysviathescenicsandspitofMopion,thenPetitSt.Vincent,andfrom Union Islandtogetherwithfourclientsandhaddecidedtosailonaroundtripthe years sailingexperience,muchofitinCaribbeanwaters,hadspenttheevening happy one. he hadrentedafewdaysbeforefromMartinique-basedcruisingcompanywas was shining;thewindswerenormalnortheasterlyaround18knots.Theboatthat about tohaveabadday.Infact,hethoughtitwasgoingbewonderful.Thesun sail fromUnionIslandonWednesdayMarch26th2008,hedidn’tthinkwas —Continuedonpage55 resident, PatrickChevalierandhiswifeVirgine. ated andwereenjoyingthehospitalityofwell-knowndoctor,artistPalmIsland into theslightlydeeperlagoononotherside.Thecrewhadbeensafelyevacu- vessel. Atthisstagetherewerehighhopesofbeingabletopullherthroughthereef to checkonpresetwaypoints”. Dan Marco that asanexperiencedskipperhesailedonacompassheading,and“Anyway,the which hecouldsailtowardswithconfidencewhenthevisibilitydropped?Butsaid didn’t hehaveawaypointsetatsafedistancefromthenorthernedgeofreef was thisawfulgrindingsoundandIknewwehadaproblem.” up seaspushedmeontothereef.Icouldn’tbelieveit.Suddenlywestoppedandthere on thesamecompassheadingIhadplannedon, have neverseenasuddenstormlikethis.Novisibilityatall.Ireducedsailandkept ity suddenlydisappears,thegamechanges.Takingupstory,AlainLaousaid,“I in goodvisibility,althoughitdoesrepresentaclassicleeshore.Butwhenallvisibil- metres betweenhimselfandthereef.Abitcloseforsome,perhaps,butprobablyfine running paralleltothewindward-sidereefwithwhatheconsideredasafegapof200 use thisemailaddress: If youwouldlikemoreinformationabout thisjoborsendyourCVtous,please Anyone withaninterestiswelcometoapply. have apositivedispositiontolifethiscouldbeyourDREAMjob. This isaFUNjobwithgreatearningpotential.Ifyouarewillingtoworkhardand We offer fulltrainingonsiteintheCaribbean. Dive master/instructorforeithertheCaptainand/orChefisaplus. Chef/Hostess withabasicunderstandingofcooking. licence. Requirements: CaptainwithaSkipper’s between CaptainandChefthemoresuccessfulyourcharterswillbe. The natureofthejobissuchthatbetterunderstandingandteamwork We prefercouplesthataremarriedORhavebeenlivingtogetherforatleastayear. We arelookingforcrew, mainlyteamsintheformofaCaptainandChef/Hostess. A SalutaryLessonfortheNewSeason This wastheunfortunate Forty-five minuteslaterwewerebackinsunshineemergingfromtheCayswhen Once attheCayswedroppedanchor,newlyinstalledParkRangerscame How wrongonecanbe. On thatsamemorningwe,inour45-footProutcatamaran Alain Laou,a46-year-oldskipperandfishermanfromMartiniquewithwellover20 When theskipperofbrandnew54-foot,Jeanneau-builtsloop A fewhourslaterwewerehighuponPalmIsland,lookingdownthestricken When talkingtohimonthephonequestionthatstruckmeforciblywas,why Tel. StVincent +784 4573407Tel. StMaarten+5995510550 or bymailto:BequiaMarina,P.O.Box 194BQ, PortElizabeth, email: [email protected] hadnorepeaterfortheoutsidesoonecouldn’tkeepdivingbackinside CREW VACANCIES! Where YouAre? operating TERM CHARTERS, allinclusive,7days. We arethefastestgrowingchartercompany, six destinationsintheCaribbean. TradeWinds CruiseCluboperateafleetofcatamaransacross Do YouKnow [email protected] Bequia, StVincent &theGrenadines WHAT’S ONMYMIND Dan Marco by RichardRoxburgh . ThesquallhadhitAlainLaouwhenhewas but thewind Mirounga and currentpiling- Dan MarcoIV , setsailfrom set

NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 & Cuba Guadeloupe to Haiti, Jamaica TRANSCARAIBES 2009

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NOVEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55

RICHARD ROXBURGH (2) Dan Dan Dan . was lost. . She has gone. Dan Marco Wind and Sea Dan Marco , only hours after striking the reef Dan Marco IV had already been bumped about 40 meters into the reef by the waves so waves so into the reef by the been bumped about 40 meters had already was tipped over to starboard in less than two metres of water so the hole was was tipped over to starboard Above: The brand new 54-foot her at Palm Island. At this point there were high hopes of salvaging of everything salvagea- Below: Five weeks later she is a stricken hulk, stripped We cannot ble and about to be disposed of. ‘It’s a question of principle. clean’ abandon this wreck here. We have to keep the Grenadines Continued from page 50 Continued from Apart from all the obvious lessons from the story, the thing that surprises me is So when you next pass by Palm Island you won’t see the All that was left when we next passed by five weeks later in early May was a Talking with Doc and Jean Marc, I sensed surprise and disappointment when they But for Alain Laou, the skipper preparing for his third lonely night on board, things preparing for his third lonely night on board, things But for Alain Laou, the skipper By the second day of pulling, a large hole had opened up in the port side but By the second day of pulling, As another string to his bow, Doc, as he is known, has a big powerful motor- he is known, has a big powerful to his bow, Doc, as As another string why anybody would sail close to reefs using dead reckoning only without first preset- ting waypoints for safety. In fact, I am sure that most of today’s cruisers, including myself, feel much safer with waypoints set at regular intervals so you are always heading towards a known point (carefully checked for reasonableness, of course). This may not appeal to ‘Real Sailors’ but surely it is much safer. And yes, I know all the argument about “What happens if your GPS breaks down or the Americans turn off the satellites”. So if it is safer to have preset waypoints, surely all boats — particularly charter boats — should have repeaters so the information is readily available in the cockpit. Then sailors will have no excuse not to know where they are in all circumstances. But losing any vessel leaves a whole raft of problems which have to be sorted out and questions to be answered. What it also leaves is a sense of sadness at the loss of a beautiful vessel and all the hopes she carries. And maybe because of this sadness, respect for people’s feelings and a desire to move on and not ask too many embarrassing questions. lonely hulk. I asked Jean Marc if she would be left to break up but he was indignant at the suggestion. “It’s a question of principle. We can’t abandon a wreck here. We have to keep the Grenadines clean.” Water was pouring in through the broken keel and saving the boat became an exer- cise in salvaging as much of the brand new equipment as possible. So, during the next few weeks, there were daily trips out to her to remove mast, rigging, engine and electronics, which were transported to Union Island and became the insurance company’s property (and problem). returned at dawn on the fourth day to find the fight aboard were not so rosy. “I was tired. I was hungry. I was demoralised. It was my first acci- were not so rosy. “I was tired. be So at about midnight, when the pumps seemed to dent. This was a big shock.” wade ashore and get some sleep. losing ground, he decided to Marco fibreglass and epoxy were brought in and under exposed and repairable. Plywood, be repair was made. The pumps seemed to difficult conditions a very workmanlike third day the rescuers thought they had a good chance holding and by dusk on the of saving her intact. Marco out to sea… and pull her off eastwards to do the obvious thing it was too far and heroic lagoon.” This was gruelling to pull her into the hence the plan saw three tow- attempted rescue we the time we watched the work. During to the brothers were involved belonging By now two other boats lines break. who own the nearby Union Island Jean Marc Sailly of Bertrand and the charter boat Restaurant and operate Bougainvillea boat and at that point he was leading the attempted rescue. As he said, “ the attempted rescue. As point he was leading boat and at that — Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited