Nawal Nasrallah December 13 Sunday, May 3 January 10, 2016 2:30 to 4:30 P.M
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Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. May 2015 Volume XIX, Number 8 Save these future CHoW Meeting Dates: “Medieval Arabs Ate Sandwiches, Too: Bazmaward and Awsat for the Record” September 13 October 11 November 8 Speaker: Nawal Nasrallah December 13 Sunday, May 3 January 10, 2016 2:30 to 4:30 p.m. February 14, 2016 Bethesda-Chevy Chase Services Center, March 13, 2016 4805 Edgemoor Lane, Bethesda, MD 20814 April 10, 2016 May 1, 2016 awal’s talk will survey the extant medieval Arabic NOTE: This is the Nrecord of the sandwich, impressively extensive and varied, to controvert the dominant western view that the last until CHoW Line sandwich was ‘invented’ in eighteenth-century England. September. Brick-oven spongy and crusty breads and thin malleable Have a nice summer! varieties were used by Arab cooks to make sandwiches, See you after Labor Day! called awsat and bazmaward. These sandwiches were popular snacks purchased from the food markets, and offered as hors d’oeuvre before the main hot meal. Renew Your The medieval Arab sandwich was not an Membership in isolated accomplishment: its lineage and culture can be seen in the evolution of some of today’s widespread CHoW NOW sandwiches, such as shawirma, in whose dissemination for 2015-16! Middle-Eastern immigrants were a key factor. Immigrants from Sicily, where the Arabs ruled The membership year for centuries, transmitted the sandwich culture to other runs from September 1 shores, as far away as New Orleans, whose national to August 31. Annual sandwich is the muffaletta, said to be of Sicilian origin. dues are $25 for The article further provides the missing Arab link for individuals, households, this popular ‘Western’ sandwich by outlining its Arab or organizations. Dues origin, including its name. include e-mail delivery of the newsletter CHoW Line. Nawal Nasrallah is a native of Iraq. She received her MA in English and Comparative literature from Baghdad University (1977). She worked as a professor at the universities Dues are $35 for members of Baghdad and Mosul teaching English language and literature from 1977 until 1990, who also wish to receive a when she moved to the U. S. Currently she is an independent scholar, researcher, and food writer residing in mailed, paper copy of the USA. She is a member of the Culinary Historians of Boston, author of many books and newsletter. articles, and has been giving talks and presentations on Iraqi/Middle Eastern cuisine, its culture and history -- ancient, medieval, and modern -- to college students, culinary Other Benefits: groups, schools, and libraries. • Priority registration for Her published books include Annals of the Caliphs’ Kitchens: Ibn Sayyar al-War- field trips raq’s Tenth-Century Baghdadi Cookbook (English Translation with Introduction and Glos- • GoogleGroups notices sary. Leiden: Brill, 2007, paperback, July 2010); and Delights from the Garden of Eden: A • Membership roster Cookbook and History of the Iraqi Cuisine, second edition (Equinox Publishing, 2013). Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. (CHoW/DC) www.chowdc.org founded in 1996, is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit, educational organization dedicated to the study of the history of foodstuffs, cuisines, and culi- nary customs, both historical and contemporary, from all parts of the world. Donations are tax deductible to the full extent of the law. oin us for a tasting and Tasting the Past: Jlecture as foodways historian Leni Sorensen The Virginia Housewife shares her research on Mary Randolph, author Leni Sorensen of a landmark 19th cen- Sunday, June 7, 2015 tury cookbook, and her 1:15-2:30 p.m. enslaved cooks in antebel- Riversdale House Museum lum Richmond, Virginia. 4811 Riverdale Road, Riverdale Park MD 20737 Optional guided tour of the garden: 12:45 p.m. After the program, you may take a guided tour of the historic house. • CHoW members are FREE, but advance reser- vations are requested. • Friends may attend for $12 • ($10 for residents of Prince George’s and Montgomery Counties). Please reserve by June 1 to 301-864-0420 or [email protected] From Liberty Tea to Freedom Fries: America’s Political Appetite CHoW Programs 2014-2015 September 14 John Tinpe, “Burmese Cuisine: On the Summary of March 8 CHoW Meeting Talk from Road to Flavor” Nancy Siegel, Professor of Art History, Towson University October 12 Michael Krondl, “The All-American Donut: How an Obscure English Specialty Conquered North A slice of Election Cake served with cups of Liberty Tea, Independence Cake decorated in gold leaf, and Federal Pan America.” Cakes plated on imported ceramics depicting an American November 9. Locked out of building; no meeting. eagle—Nancy Siegel’s lecture, “From Liberty Tea to Free- December 14 Catherine Dann Roeber, “Food Fights dom Fries,” posited that American political and culinary and School Lunch: Dining and ‘Edible’ Education in histories are closely intertwined. Dr. Siegel began her talk America.” considering a set of “Rules by which a Great Empire may January 11, 2015 Ai Hisano, “The Color of New Tastes: be reduced to a Small One” that appeared in the 1774 Processed Foods in the Early-Twentieth-Century United Pennsylvania Packet in which the author likened the lack of States.” proper control over the American colonies to a crumbling February 8 Nadia Berenstein, “Artificial Strawberry, cake: “In the first place gentlemen, you are to consider, Imitation Cheese: A History of Synthetic Flavors in the that a great empire, like a cake, is most easily diminished at the edges…act like a wise gingerbread baker, who, to U.S.” facilitate a division, cuts his dough half through in those March 8 Nancy J. Siegel, “From Liberty Tea to Freedom places, where, when baked, he would have it broken to Fries: America’s Political Appetite.” pieces.” The use of similes linking food to politics became April 12 Cooperative Supper, Alexandria House increasingly popular from the late eighteenth century on May 3 Nawal Nasrallah, “Medieval Arabs Ate as a means to communicate caution or approval of political Sandwiches, too: Bazmaward and Awsat for the Record” structures and ideologies in America. This talk examined June 7. Leni Sorensen. The event will be held at how and why a culinary vocabulary was developed and Riversdale House Museum in Riverdale Park, Maryland employed as a widespread, but little studied, language of political expression during the years surrounding the (see top of this page). American Revolution and into the nineteenth century. 2 CHoW Line Slate of Nominees The ElectionUpcoming Day Events CHoW Board 2015-2016 By Dianne Hennessy King The following CHoW members have Farmers Markets. Although a number of farmers markets agreed to be nominated to serve on the are open year round, the majority of markets begin the first CHoW Board for 2015-2016. Elections week of May. You might be familiar with the market clos- will be held at the May CHoW meeting. est to your home, but it is great to explore farmers markets Thanks to these loyal CHoW members as part of your general or culinary byways travel. Most for agreeing to be nominated. markets are local, producer only vendors. For example, the Fairfax County VA Park Authority markets feature agricul- President: Bruce Reynolds tural products from within 125 miles of the county. Vice-President: Audrey Hong Secretary: Willis Van Devanter Reynolds Cinco de Mayo Treasurer: Francine Berkowitz Sunday, May 3, noon to 6 p.m., FREE Membership National Mall between 9th and 12th Sts. Secretary: Clara Raju The Mexican 5th of May celebration in Directors at Large: D.C. has expanded to become a festival Claudia Kousoulas that features music, food, and dance that Beverly Firme originated in various Latin countries. http://dc.about.com/od/ specialevents/a/CincodeMayo.htm Delaplane VA Strawberry Festival Saturday, May 23 and Sunday, May 25, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sky Meadows State Park Fee: $20 per vehicle in advance $25 at gate Hayrides, old fashioned field games, dancing, music, magic, storytelling, crafts, a petting farm, an antique car show, a bake sale, hikes in the shadow of the Appalachian Trail, face paint- ing, cake-walking, a corn hole tournament, a monkey and much more. Pack a picnic or snack on pizza, fresh wraps, hot dogs and other festival fare such as funnel cake and strawberry shortcakes and sundaes. www.dcr.virginia. gov/state-parks/park-event-info.shtml?id=SK150043-00 Pictured above are the nominees for Treasurer, Secretary 30th Annual St. Mary’s and Vice President: Francine Berkowitz, Willis Van County Crab Festival Devanter, and Audrey Hong . The photo is from an article Saturday, June 13, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Bethesda Magazine in by Nevin Martell titled, “Hungry for St. Mary’s Fairgrounds on Route 5 History. At the local culinary society CHoW, members Two miles south of Leonardtown, indulge a taste for the past.” You can read the article at: MD www.bethesdamagazine.com/Bethesda-Magazine/May- June-2012/Culinary-Historians/index.php?cparticle=1&sia The Crab Festival is a celebration of St. Mary’s Crab Cul- rticle=0#artanc ture and Cooking. There will be steamed hard crabs, crab soups, crab cakes, and other seafood dishes available for Pictured below are Clara Raju, Claudia Kousoulas, and purchase. The festival is a charitable fundraiser for the Beverly Firme, nominees for Membership Secretary and Leonardtown Lions. http://e-clubhouse.org/sites/leonar- Directors at Large. dtownmd/page-8.php Summer Seafood Fest Tilghman Island, MD Saturday, June 27 11 a.m.-? Highlights include local seafood, live music, crab races, crafts, Queen and Little Miss contests, artisans, and a fire- men’s parade. http://www.tilghmanmd.com/seafood.htm CHoW Line 3 The Dutch Table.