THE BEST OF FLAGSTAFF, 2015 WEEKEND GETAWAYS SEDONA AND BISBEE JANUARY

ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE MYSTERIOUS LITTLE BIRDS BY CHARLES Where to EAT, BOWDEN SLEEP & SPLURGE PLUS: SOME HISTORY, SOME HIKES — ROBERT — LOUIS STEVENSON AND SCENIC DRIVES, SOMETHING FOR THE KIDS AND MORE! “We are all travelers in the wilderness travelers ...” are world all this of “We

Cathedral Rock, Sedona

AND: TROOP 65 HELPS RESTORE INDIAN GARDEN • SAGUARO NATIONAL PARK HIKING HELL’S HOLE • CHUCK ABBOTT • BEYOND LAKE POWELL • SNOWY EGRETS Page

CONTENTS 01.15 Grand Canyon National Park

2 EDITOR’S LETTER > 3 CONTRIBUTORS > 4 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR > 56 WHERE IS THIS? Flagstaff

Sedona Prescott

Salome Wilderness PHOENIX Oracle Tucson Saguaro National Park Bisbee

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5 THE JOURNAL 32 THE GREAT BEYOND 50 DELTA FORCE www.facebook.com/azhighways People, places and things from around the state, including a look Almost 3 million people a year visit Lake Powell. It’s one of the For millions of years, water from the Colorado River flowed Join our Facebook community to share your back at iconic photographer Chuck Abbott, ocotillos, snowy egrets most popular attractions in the Southwest, but it’s not the only all the way to the Gulf of California. But not anymore. The photographs, chat with other fans, enter trivia and a snapshot of Grand Canyon National Park. sight worth seeing. Just beyond the lake are several natural last 90 miles are dry, and that’s where Francisco Zamora- contests and receive up-to-the-minute informa- tion about what’s going on behind the scenes at wonders, including the otherworldly Antelope Canyon. Arroyo is pouring his energy. As director of the Colorado Arizona Highways. 16 WEEKEND GETAWAYS TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY LADD River Delta Legacy Program, he’s fighting hard to bring the Arizona Highways is on Instagram Flagstaff, Sedona, Bisbee ... there’s a lot to do in those three places, river back. Follow us @arizonahighways to see our travel and trying to fit it all into one weekend can be tough. To make 42 SCOUTING TRIP BY NOAH AUSTIN photos from around the state. things a little easier, we put together itineraries of where to eat, For almost 50 years, a troop of Boy Scouts from suburban Chi- PHOTOGRAPH BY BILL HATCHER sleep, hike and splurge. We also threw in some history, something cago has been making regular trips to Arizona to hike the Grand for the kids and more. Canyon. In July, they were back, but instead of just hiking rim- 52 SCENIC DRIVE BY NOAH AUSTIN, ROBERT STIEVE & KELLY VAUGHN KRAMER to-rim-to-rim, Troop 65 also delivered a check for $4,500. Saguaro National Park East: Craggy peaks, sweeping vistas, ◗ A sandstorm on the Navajo Nation cloaks Monument Valley in a haze of dust. | TIM FITZHARRIS BY ANNETTE MCGIVNEY spectacular sunsets and saguaros are just some of what CAMERA: PENTAX 645; FILM: FUJICHROME VELVIA; SHUTTER: PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN BURCHAM you’ll see on this scenic drive, which loops through 8 miles of 24 IT’S IN THE DETAILS 1/15 SEC; APERTURE: F/11; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 80 MM rugged desert at an elevation of 3,000 feet. For almost nine decades, we’ve been using photography to show- FRONT COVER Sunrise illuminates Cathedral Rock, one of case the beauty of Arizona. Most of those images have been pan- 46 MYSTERIOUS LITTLE BIRDS Sedona’s best-known sandstone formations. | MARK FRANK oramic landscapes, but every once in a while, we like to send out a Depending on the time of year, as many as 15 species of hum- 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH CAMERA: CANON EOS 5D MARK II; SHUTTER: 1/5 SEC; APERTURE: F/20; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 29 MM photographer with a macro lens. Thus this collection. mingbirds can be found in Arizona. They come in a rainbow of Hell’s Hole Trail: If your New Year’s resolution was to push BACK COVER A blue-throated hummingbird takes aim at colors, but beyond that, we don’t know a lot about them. As yourself to the extreme in 2015, this trail is a good place to A PORTFOLIO BY EIRINI PAJAK wildflowers in Portal. | BRUCE D. TAUBERT our writer writes: “They hover right in front of our face, but we start. It’s one of the state’s most challenging trails, but the CAMERA: CANON EOS-1D MARK IV; SHUTTER: 1/200 SEC; hardly know their worlds.” payoff is out of this world. APERTURE: F/18; ISO: 500; FOCAL LENGTH: 170 MM AN ESSAY BY CHARLES BOWDEN

PHOTOGRAPHIC2 JANUARY 2013PRINTS AVAILABLE Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizona highwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s letter contributors

—IN MEMORIAM— GARY LADD When Gary Ladd moved to Page from

JANUARY 2015 VOL. 91, NO. 1 Tucson in 1981, he didn’t know about CHARLES BOWDEN Coyote Buttes, Horseshoe Bend or other 800-543-5432 1945–2014 www.arizonahighways.com attractions near town. “I had been into Antelope Canyon a few times,” he says, PUBLISHER Win Holden “but I had never run into other visitors. It HUMMINGBIRDS. Some are it, but for him, the exercise EDITOR Robert Stieve wasn’t known to the world, either.” Today, as little as 2.29 inches long, went beyond vowels and conso- MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn Kramer Lake Powell visitation is exploding, in and none are bigger than nants. He was meticulous about ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin RENEE ROUNDTREE large part because of the attractions that pocket-sized. They’re among his punctuation, too. Or the EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel were virtually unknown to the outside world when Ladd came to town. That inspired The the world’s smallest verte- lack thereof. PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida Great Beyond (see page 32), Ladd’s essay on all the other reasons to visit the Page area. Of brates, and yet, they played a If you’re familiar with CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney all those reasons, Ladd says Horseshoe Bend should be No. 1 on a visitor’s list: “It’s about a large role in the life of Charles Chuck’s writing, you know that ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney 20-minute hike on a very sandy trail to a sudden view that you can’t prepare yourself for. Bowden. “There is nothing he liked to write long sentences DESIGN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Diana Benzel-Rice Try to be there at sunset. It’s totally free — no permits, no entry fees, no parking charges, in my day that matters to me without the burden of commas. MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey no hassle. Also, no railings at the overlook!” Ladd is a longtime and frequent contributor to beyond birds, walking and Although it kept our proofread- PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi Arizona Highways. He’s currently working on a Grand Canyon Association book about how reading.” That’s from a recent ers up at night, the rule around WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow best to photograph the Canyon from its rims. entry in a journal Chuck called here was simple: No red marks DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero “Creek Log.” He was fascinated on Chuck’s copy. Only he had CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen BRUCE D. TAUBERT by birds — hummingbirds in MOLLOY MOLLY that kind of immunity, and particular — and the seduction now there’s no one. INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY Cindy Bormanis “If I go too long without going outdoors and getting goes back to his childhood. Chuck died on August 30, 2014. I was sitting in the sand, dirty, life is not good,” says photographer Bruce Taubert, “As a boy,” he wrote in an essay, “I’d walk the dog under a staring at the Pacific, when I got the details from Molly, his lov- CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES 602-712-2019 whose photos accompany Charles Bowden’s essay on

tree in the corner of the park at twilight and hummingbirds ing partner. “Surreal” is one of the most overused words in our SPONSORSHIP SALES hummingbirds (see Mysterious Little Birds, page 46). would hover just over my head. I knew nothing of their customs language — one that’s rarely acquitted when on trial for its life REPRESENTATION Kathleen Hennen You’ve probably seen Taubert’s photographs in just about Hennen Publishing & or various nations then. But my boy’s eyes glimpsed an open — but the news about Chuck was surreal. I’d just talked to him Marketing Group every issue of Arizona Highways in recent memory. His door as the night came down and the promise of what I could be a few days earlier. He’d pitched me an idea for the magazine, 480-664-0541 specialty is nature photography, and he usually provides KELVEY and learn if I left the everyday world and spun up into the sky.” and we discussed some new essays. It never occurred to me the shots of plants and animals you see on page 13 of C The essay is titled Mysterious Little Birds, and it’s featured on that that would be it. No more vowels, no more consonants, no LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] our magazine. Taubert says he sees photography as “a G.E. M page 46. As writers, we all have access to the same set of vow- more inspiration. I can’t put into words what I was feeling, but 2039 W. Lewis Avenue mechanism to show our nation’s wildlife heritage to the Phoenix, AZ 85009 els and consonants, but Chuck was the master of composition I remember thinking: “Surreal” is a word that should be reserved for public.” With hummingbirds, he says, the challenge comes not in photographing the bird but — he’d string together words the way Mozart paired notes and the unexpected death of Charles Bowden. in making the image beautiful: “Backgrounds, flower placement, lighting and location are Monet combined colors. I also thought about the first time I met Chuck. It was more GOVERNOR Doug Ducey critical to making a great hummingbird image.” Taubert’s images have been used in numerous DIRECTOR, DEPARTMENT “The land rose, a river cut, the entrails of the earth came than 20 years ago. My mentor, Dick Vonier, introduced us. Dick calendars, magazines, educational publications and advertisements for conservation groups. OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski into view, time beyond human comprehension loomed up like and Chuck had been rabble-rousing journalists in Tucson — the ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION a wall and the hand could rub and feel billions of years.” That’s Butch and Sundance of independent magazines. Dick was quiet, BOARD CHAIRMAN Stephen W. Christy

from an essay about the Grand Canyon. and usually went unnoticed in a roomful of writers, but Chuck VICE CHAIRMAN Kelly O. Anderson EIRINI PAJAK In another essay, one in which I was expecting an obituary was an alluring combination of Hunter S. Thompson, Edward Eirini Pajak studied photography in college but didn’t keep up with it after she graduated. A MEMBERS Joseph E. La Rue for a battered national monument, he wrote a beautiful piece Abbey and Aldo Leopold. Writer, activist, teacher ... Chuck was William Cuthbertson decade later, a monk at St. Anthony’s Monastery in Florence, where Pajak often attends ser- about hopefulness: “I stand in the shade of an ironwood that smart. He had a degree in American intellectual history from Deanna Beaver vices, suggested she start photographing wildflowers. “He added, specifically, not to overlook is likely older than my nation and I have the faith of a pupfish, the University of Wisconsin, and he had a lot to say. About Jack W. Sellers even the tiniest flowers,” she says. That suggestion has shaped her photographic style: As you’ll surviving century after century in a desert. Organ Pipe is open human rights, the environment and even hummingbirds. see in our portfolio (It’s in the Details, page 24), Pajak has become a pro at capturing the small things, partly through her use of a technique called focus-stacking. “I’m trying to give more for business and its business is to teach the power of life in a Although I wanted more, it’s fitting that Chuck’s last words Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published monthly by very hot place. We made a deal with the ground and the bad for Arizona Highways were about his beloved hummingbirds. the Arizona Department of Transportation. Subscription price: attention to beautiful wildflowers $24 a year in the U.S., $44 outside the U.S. Single copy: $4.99 U.S. that I think are often overlooked,” times cannot touch our dreams.” He was in Patagonia, working on Mysterious Little Birds, when Call 800-543-5432. Subscription cor­respon­dence and change of Of course, his mastery of the written word went beyond he started getting sick. Just before he headed home to Molly in address information: Arizona Highways, P.O. Box 8521, Big Sandy, she says. “I’ve seen so many amazing the pages of Arizona Highways. He wrote more than two dozen New Mexico, he sent her an email: “I feel better — slept. I try TX 75755-8521. Periodical postage paid at Phoenix, AZ, and at images of poppies and lupines, but additional mailing office. CANADA POST INTERNATIONAL PUB- books and won a long list of writing awards. He was a finalist for to comfort myself with thinking of the past.” LICATIONS MAIL PRODUCT (CANADIAN­ DISTRIBUTION) SALES there is a whole world of neglected the Pulitzer Prize, and when the editors of Esquire selected the He wasn’t specific in his message to Molly, but I suspect one AGREEMENT NO. 41220511. SEND RETURNS TO QUAD/GRAPH- — and often quite tiny — flowers that ICS, P.O. BOX 875, WINDSOR, ON N9A 6P2. POST­MASTER: Send 70 best sentences in the history of their magazine, Chuck was in of those memories was about a dog and a tree and a park — a address changes to Arizona Highways, P.O. Box 8521, Big Sandy, TX are no less beautiful.” This month’s the mix, along with Hemingway, Steinbeck and Fitzgerald. place where hummingbirds would hover over his head at twi- 75755-8521. Copy­right © 2015 by the Ari­zona Department of Trans­­ feature is Pajak’s first inArizona por­­tation. Repro­duc­tion in whole or in part with­­out permission is As you’d expect, it’s the quintessential sentence. I share it light. I hope all of his final memories were beautiful. Like the prohibited. The magazine does not accept and is not responsible Highways. Her photos have also with my students when I teach magazine writing at the Walter beautiful words he wrote for all of us. for unsolicited­ mater­ ials.­ appeared in Arizona Wildlife Views, a publication of the Arizona Game and Cronkite School of Journalism. I share it and tell them to write So long, Chuck. Say hello to Dick. PRODUCED IN THE USA

as if every word were on trial for its life. That’s how Chuck did — ROBERT STIEVE, EDITOR Fish Department. — NOAH AUSTIN ALAN SPARKMAN

2 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 3 letters to the editor [email protected] THE JOURNAL 01.15

national parks centennial > history > photography > iconic photographers dining > nature > lodging > things to do LONG-DISTANCE RELATIONSHIP A long time ago, precisely in 1984, during a holiday in Arizona, I came across Arizona Highways for the first time, and Bear Hug after reading it, I fell in love with it. It’s one of the best maga- Black-bear cubs wrestle in the snow at zines I have ever been subscribed with. I live in Italy, and when Bearizona, a drive-through wildlife park my monthly copy arrives I feel very happy to spend my evening, in Williams. Black bears weigh less than after work, going through its pages and being informed about a pound at birth, but males can be more Arizona and enjoying the outstanding pictures. than 500 pounds when fully grown. Giovanni Salvi, Bergamo, Italy Bearizona also features wolves, bison, otters, raptors and other species. For more information, call 928-635-2289 or visit www. December 2014 bearizona.com. CAMERA: CANON EOS-1D MARK III; KEEPING UP DOWN UNDER Mountains are my favourite and most- tiful Arizona. This month’s issue [August SHUTTER: 1/500 SEC; I don’t know how many international visited place in all of Arizona. 2014] contains an exceptionally beautiful APERTURE: F/4; ISO: 400; subscribers you have, but moving away Brian Kozan, Melbourne, Australia picture of lightning over Coal Mine Canyon, FOCAL LENGTH: 200 MM from Arizona five years ago would have and I wondered if I could purchase a copy been near-impossible without having DRY HUMOR for my geology-museum wall. Arizona Highways delivered to my door I was terribly disappointed that in your Barry Taylor, Chesham, Buckinghamshire, in Australia. I absolutely loved Chikku otherwise-fine article about Prep and Pastry United Kingdom Baiju’s winning photo [Best Picture 2014, in Tucson [The Journal, October 2014], the September 2014]. The Superstition author chose to disparage the noble scone. Editor’s Note: Thanks for the kind words, Barry. I think Prep and Pastry is a great place, and Some of our images are available at www. I am particularly fond of the sweet-potato arizonahighwaysprints.com. Check it out. U.S. Postal Service STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT, AND CIRCULATION hash. But scones are supposed to be a little Title of Publication: Arizona Highways Publisher: Win Holden crispy on the outside, not too sweet and WAY-BACK MACHINES Publication No.: ISSN 0004-1521 Editor: Robert Stieve Date of Filing: September 22, 2014 Managing Editor: Kelly Kramer; address below with a relatively dry texture. Otherwise, Years ago, long before computers and Frequency of issues: Monthly Complete mailing address Number of issues of known office of publication: they are nothing but a flat muffin. Muffins printers, in the days of linotype and published annually: Twelve 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, Annual subscription price: (Maricopa) AZ 85009-2893 are fine in their place, and I can objectively veloxes, I owned an advertising agency in $24.00 U.S. one year Owner: State of Arizona understand some people preferring them. California. From time to time I was called 206 S. 17th Ave. Phoenix, AZ 85007 But, really, preferring Pop-Tarts? I am sure upon to produce comprehensive layouts Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securities: None there is a Christmas-fruitcake-defense for clients’ sales brochures or annual The purpose, function, and nonprofit status of this organization and the exempt status for federal income tax purposes has not changed during preceding 12 months. league, and I may have to start one for the reports. I was familiar with Arizona ISSUE DATE FOR CIRCULATION DATA BELOW: Nov. ’13-Oct. ’14 Oct. ’14 scone. Right down the street from Prep and Highways and its excellence in photogra- Average no. Actual no. copies each copies of Pastry is Raging Sage, which almost always phy. Many a time I made the trek to the issue during single issue preceding published nearest has a line serving my favorite scones. I have used-magazine shop, on the other side of 12 months to filing date EXTENT AND NATURE OF CIRCULATION A. Total number copies printed 136,164 136,087 to admit that even my husband thinks that town, to pore through back issues of your B. Paid circulation 1. Outside-county, mail subscriptions 110,752 111,288 the scones I like taste like cardboard — I publication for [inspiration]. Today, out of 2. In-county subscriptions -- -- 3. Sales through dealers, carriers, prefer to think I have a more refined palate. the kindness of a dear friend in Prescott, street vendors, counter sales and other non-USPS­ paid distribution 10,804 9,728 Marcia Jurgens, Green Valley, Arizona I once again enjoy the excellence of your 4. Other classes mailed through the USPS 2,448 2,373 C. Total paid circulation 124,004 123,389 magazine through a gift subscription. D. Free distribution by mail 1. Outside-county 174 182 2. In-county -- -- MUSEUM QUALITY David Free, Kaneohe, Hawaii 3. Other classes mailed through the USPS -- -- 4. Free distribution outside the mail 3,081 2,789 My brother, who lives in LA, has given me E. Total free distribution 3,255 2,971 F. Total distribution 127,259 126,360 a subscription to your beautiful magazine. If you have thoughts or com- G. Copies not distributed 8,905 9,728 contact us H. Total 136,164 136,088 ments about anything in Arizona Highways, we’d I. Percent paid circulation 97.4% 97.6% I love its great articles and wonderful pic- J. Paid Electronic copies 1,638 1,641 love to hear from you. We can be reached at editor@ K. Total paid print copies + paid electronic copies 125,642 125,030 tures. Here in the United Kingdom, we have L. Total print distribution + paid electronic copies 128,897 128,001 arizonahighways.com, or by mail at 2039 W. Lewis M. Percent paid circulation (print & electronic copies) 97.5% 97.7% lovely local scenes, but nothing compares Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009. For more information, I certify that the statements made by me are correct and complete.

Win Holden, Publisher with the expansive wonders of your beau- visit www.arizonahighways.com. MATHIA SUZANNE

4 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 5 national parks centennial � �

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK

Hopi House, 1914 | COURTESY OF GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK MUSEUM COLLECTION

efore President Theodore Roosevelt named the Grand THE JOURNAL Canyon a national monument in 1908, he said: “Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it, and man can B only mar it. What you can do is to keep it for your children, your children’s children, and for all who come after you, as one of the great sights which every American should see.” But long before that significant designation and its later designation as a national park, the Canyon was home to some of Arizona’s native people. Archaeological evidence — stick figurines, ruins of dwellings and pottery shards — indicates that hunter- gatherers traveled through the Canyon more than 10,000 years ago. And the Ancestral Puebloan people lived in and around the Canyon for several thousand years. Much later, brave men such as Joseph Christmas Ives and John Wesley Powell explored the mile-deep Canyon — running the Colorado River that cuts through it, hiking into its side canyons and documenting what they found along the way. After them came entrepreneurs such as the Verkamp family — who opened a curio shop on the South Rim in 1898 — and the Kolb brothers, whose photographic exploits in the Canyon are displayed at Kolb Studio,

ADAM SCHALLAU ADAM a national historic landmark .

YEAR DESIGNATED: 1893 (forest reserve), 1908 (national monument), 1919 (national park) EDITOR’S NOTE: In August 2016, Today, Grand Canyon National Park plays host to more than the National Park Service will AREA: 1,904 square miles 4.5 million visitors each year, proving that Mr. Roosevelt had a point. celebrate its 100th anniversary. WILDERNESS ACREAGE: None within park boundaries Leading up to that milestone, we’ll — KELLY VAUGHN KRAMER ANNUAL VISITATION: 4.6 million (2013) be spotlighting some of Arizona’s wonderful national parks. AVERAGE ELEVATION: 7,000 feet (South Rim), 8,000 feet (North Rim) 928-638-7888; www.nps.gov/grca

6 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 7 history photography � � � �

The Earthquake of 1887? Jack Is Back No one knows how the rumor started, but according to Photo Editor Jeff Kida and longtime Arizona Highways contributor Jack local experts, Bisbee’s famous earthquake did not cause the cracks Dykinga discuss the photographer’s on Bucky O’Neill Hill. Still, it’s a good story. recent lung transplant and how it will impact his work. he next time you visit Bisbee, including two sharp shocks and last- Graeme, who has extensive knowledge take a look at the fissures on ing over 90 seconds, was succeeded at of the area’s geology, says that while min- JK: Four years ago, you were diagnosed Bucky O’Neill Hill. If you ask frequent intervals by many lesser move- ing activity played a role in the formation with idiopathic pulmonary fibrosis. Your T locals how the cracks (pictured) ments in the next three days.” Hunt and of the cracks, Mother Nature was the real condition got critical last spring, and on came to be, you might get more than one Douglas also recalled the destruction: “In culprit. May 24, you had a double lung transplant answer. Some say the cracks stem from this part of Arizona, solid house-walls, of “You have these rooms that appear performed at St. Joseph’s Hospital and heavy mining in the area. Others say the adobe or unburned brick, were cracked or above these ore bodies, and they col- Medical Center in Phoenix. Since then, fissures were the result of an earthquake overturned, while huge rocks in the steep lapsed,” he says. “[Those are] the origi- you’ve made a remarkable recovery. Do that violently shook the old mining town mountain gorges rolled down, causing nal origins of the cracks in the hill. The you think this experience will affect your in 1887. much damage.” The miners noted that the earthquake [being the cause] is just a shooting style? “I’ve heard it all my life, that myth,” fires that ignited shortly after the quake local rumor and myth. It’s all made up.” JD: I don’t think so, but I keep thinking of an says Doug Graeme, a geology buff and led to “rumors of volcanic eruptions.” — KIRSTEN KRAKLIO Ansel Adams quote. I’m paraphrasing, but manager of the Queen Mine Tour. Adams said it’s not so much about photo- Although no one knows who started the graphing a place; it’s about how you feel story about the quake, when you hear when you’re there. After my surgery, my the details of the magnitude-7.2 tremor first assignment was for Arizona Highways that shook the region, it’s clear why the at Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge rumor stuck. in Southern Arizona. I had mixed feelings: The epicenter of the May 3, 1887, earth- I was elated and ecstatic to be out in the quake was in Sonora, Mexico, but the field again, but there was also a certain quake was felt in Bisbee, Globe, Phoenix, amount of fear. I set a very high bar for Tucson, Yuma and as far away as Albu- myself, and I wasn’t sure whether I could querque, New Mexico. The event and its photograph at the level I once had. I was THE JOURNAL aftermath led to panic among the locals. happy to find that I was still able to do the

Miners T. Sterry Hunt and James things I wanted. DYKINGA JACK Douglas were at a Bisbee copper-mining The setting sun illuminates the grasslands of Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge in Southern Arizona. camp at the time of the quake. The fol- JK: What went into this month’s photo- lowing year, the miners recounted their graph (right) of Buenos Aires? ing from surgery, I had a chance to research depth-of-field sharpness from front to experience for the Seismological Society JD: I’m very comfortable using a 4x5 view Nikon’s new D810, which has essentially back. The D810 makes the manual focus- of Japan: “A violent tremor of the Earth, camera, and when I started shooting more the same 36-megapixel sensor as my ing of this lens very easy with something

Bucky O’Neill Hill, its cracks visible, digital files a few years ago, I was able to D800 but comes with some really slick called live-view split-screen focus. Using

looms over Bisbee in the town’s early days. BISBEE MINING & HISTORICAL MUSEUM take advantage of perspective-correcting new features. I used the D810 and a 24 mm your camera’s LCD screen, you are able lenses. The shift and tilt movements built tilt-shift lens to make this photo. This to open two windows showing different into these lenses allow you to exceed the allowed me to “tilt” the lens without rotat- areas in your frame. Because you have depth-of-field restrictions of a normal lens. ing the camera, which changed the plane the ability to zoom, you can bring both the ARIZONA HIGHWAYS this ■ Grand Canyon ■ Tucson ■ The first The January 1965 That makes the 35 mm format behave of focus in the frame. By doing this, you can foreground and the background into focus, National Monument police newspaper in issue of Arizona more like a view camera. As I was recover- select focus points near and far and carry as I did here. is established on detectives Phoenix, the 50 Years Ago Highways paid hom- month January 11, 1908. capture Salt River Herald, age to films made in ■ Wyatt Earp dies John begins publish- Arizona, including The in history in Los Angeles on Dillinger ing on January Greatest Story Ever January 13, 1929, (pictured) 26, 1878. SNOW graphing snow- Experiment with ADDITIONAL Told. A scene from the PHOTO dusted mountains your camera set- READING at age 81. on January 25, 1934. ■ On January 31, film appeared on the PROBLEM can be a challenge tings to find a com- Look for our book ■ The first The famed felon is 1890, the Empire Arizona Highways damaging earth- apprehended after Ranch begins driv- cover. Other features Believe it or not, because they often bination that allows Photography quake known to a fire breaks out ing 1,000 head of included an article TIP many of Arizona’s contain areas of you to see detail Guide, available and portfolio about mountains have deep shadow, along in the shadows at bookstores have its epicenter in at Hotel Congress, cattle to California to and www.shop Arizona occurs on where he and his escape high freight the Santa Catalina snow on them this with the bright without blowing out arizonahighways.

January 25, 1906. gang are hiding out. rates of $7 per head. Mountains. time of year. Photo- white of the snow. the snow. CLAIRE CURRAN com/books.

8 JANUARY 2015 To learn more about photography, visit www.arizonahighways.com/photography. www.arizonahighways.com 9 iconic photographers � � THE JOURNAL ARIZONA HIGHWAYS ARCHIVES HIGHWAYS ARIZONA CHUCK ABBOTT

orn in a tiny Michigan lumber much so that the Tucson Sunshine Club photography contributors to Arizona town in 1894, Charles “Chuck” hired him away in 1939 to become the Highways before retiring to Santa Cruz, Abbott turned to photography “Cowboy Photographer,” snapping photos California, in the early 1960s. The photo- B during World War I. When he of tourists, sending the photos to visitors’ graph at right appeared in Arizona High- was drafted into the Army in 1917, he hometown papers and bringing attention ways’ January 1952 issue. photographed the devastating effects of to the Southern Arizona city as a major — KELLY VAUGHN KRAMER war on the European landscape and sold travel destination. many of his images when he returned to But not everyone was pleased with For more information about Chuck Abbott, visit the the United States. Abbott’s work. Esther Henderson, a local University of California-Santa Cruz’s online archive at www.oac.cdlib.org. After a stint in Florida as the propri- photographer and chair of the city’s pho- etor of Abbott’s Joint, a dance hall and tographers’ club, protested Abbott’s hir- Above: Chuck Abbott and Esther Henderson, longtime casino, Abbott moved to California, ing. Abbott tried to smooth things over residents of Tucson, were regular contributors to Arizona where he was ultimately hired as a “cow- and convinced Henderson to meet him Highways. boy host” at Nellie Coffman’s Desert Inn for a drink. Within two months, Abbott Right: This photo, which was made with a 5x7 Deardorff in Palm Springs. Breakfast trail rides, and Henderson were married. camera and a Goerz Dogmar lens, was made by Chuck Abbott in the foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains. It campfire cookouts and Western songs The Abbotts remained in Tucson, was originally intended as a promotional photo for the

became Abbott’s claim to fame — so raised two sons and became regular city of Tucson. CHUCK ABBOTT

10 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 11 dining nature � � � �

Oracle Inn Steakhouse During breed- ing season, Like most great steakhouses, this one comes with a hearty menu the birds’ featuring prime rib, smoked meat, steak and chili. What sets it apart upper bills turn from is the rich history of the place, which dates back to the ’30s. yellow to red. Snowy

KARI AND ADRIAN DARIMONT DIDN’T exactly rib, smoked meat, steak and chili, the nearby mining operations ceased in the Egrets plan on going into the restaurant busi- Darimonts opened Oracle Inn Steak- late 1990s, the town’s economy took a ness when they bought the long-shut- house on July 6, 2008. “People were lined dive. The Oracle Inn was closed for years. nowy egrets in flight are striking tered Oracle Inn in 2008. up outside,” Adrian recalls, “and we did The Darimonts’ renovations kept the sights, their wing feathers spreading oracle The Tucson residents were 550 dinners that night. The chef quit historic adobe core of the restaurant like accordions. Cloaked in elegant real-estate investors whose after his shift. He was overwhelmed. But intact, down to the main dining room’s Swhite plumes, the birds look as if family had bought the nearby 3C Ranch we’ve been going strong ever since.” polished-copper fireplace hood. They they’re dressed for a ball, their black legs like years before and started snapping up The Darimonts revived Oracle’s de draped booths in vintage red-velvet cur- Snowy leggings down to their yellow feet. People commercial buildings in Oracle with the facto living room, dining hall and water- tains found at their ranch and adorned egrets have have adored snowy egrets for centuries, but a 3-foot at one point, admiration turned to greed. intention of leasing the properties. ing hole, a place where tourists rub walls with historic memorabilia that wingspan. “My real-estate-investing rule is, never elbows with local sculptors while cow- recalls “Buffalo Bill” Cody’s and Tom Beginning in the late 1800s, hunters fall in love with the property,” Adrian boys and miners swap stories with bik- Mix’s ties to the community. slaughtered hundreds of thousands of says. “We didn’t follow that rule in ers, just as they did for generations. They also displayed work by local snowy egrets each year for their distinc- Oracle.” The couple became smitten with The Oracle Inn was built in 1938 by artists and updated the sports bar and tive breeding plumes, which were used for the small community of ranchers, min- Boyd Wilson, the son of George Wil- streetside patio. women’s hats. In 1886, the fluffy feathers ers, artists and retirees on the northern son, who owned the nearby Rancho The beef-centric menu has been sold for $32 per ounce, double the price of slopes of Mount Lemmon, so they moved Linda Vista dude ranch. Crafted of tweaked with the help of daughter-in- gold, according to the Cornell Lab of Orni- to the ranch. When the real-estate mar- adobe blocks, the inn served steaks and law Stephanie Darimont, who serves as thology. Snowy egrets were hunted to the ket tanked, the couple realized the old cocktails, and poured champagne for manager, and includes salmon and pasta verge of extinction until Congress protected steakhouse could become a viable family Rancho Linda Vista’s wealthy Eastern dishes; another daughter-in-law, Corrie The birds use their them with the Migratory Bird Treaty Act bright-yellow feet enterprise. They put their son Justin in guests. The Wilsons kept locals coming Darimont, runs the property’s grocery in 1918. Since then, their population has to stir up prey. charge of restaurant operations, while by building a veritable sports complex, store. As a nod to Adrian’s German heri- bounced back and is no longer concerning another son, Nick, handled renovations including a roping arena, baseball dia- tage, the restaurant hosts a monthly Ger- to conservationists. THE JOURNAL on the rambling, 13,000-square-foot mond and golf course, around the restau- man weekend, when the menu expands Snowy egrets thrive in aquatic, thickly building. rant. Subsequent owners added a second to include schnitzel and sauerbraten, vegetated environments, such as estuar- With a hearty menu featuring prime story and an expansive sports bar. When and German beers and wines dot the ies, mangroves, marsh pools, swamps bar menu. A signature des- and shallow bays. Many of the birds live in sert? Cinnamon-flecked bread South America year-round, but some breed

pudding, topped with caramel BRUCE (2) D. TAUBERT throughout the United States, mostly on sauce and ice cream. coasts. Come wintertime, those birds mi- Although the food is a draw, grate to warmer climes — Arizona, the the Darimonts have also put Caribbean and South America. When it’s together an ever-changing nature factoid time to breed, male snowy egrets select a events calendar, offering live nest location and put on loud displays to music, karaoke and stand-up OCOTILLOS impress females. After they find their mates, comedy. Lest things get too Ocotillos can possess six to the females usually build the nest. Males lowbrow, there are also tango 100 spindly, spiky branches, and females take turns incubating eggs, lessons and philosophy-club which are covered in a waxy which typically are a pale greenish-blue. varnish to retain moisture. meetings. These desert shrubs are On average, snowy egrets are 2 feet tall. “Our idea was to create a des- dormant until just after rain, Males and females are roughly the same tination steakhouse,” Adrian when leaves quickly regrow size. They are lanky creatures, weighing only and photosynthesize. Few says, “something for visitors as animals eat ocotillos, but in about 13 ounces — think four of your TSA- well as locals. I think we did Arizona, mule deer, white- approved carry-on toiletries. They use their just that.” — NORA BURBA TRULSSON tailed deer and bighorn skinny legs to chase prey through water and sheep occasionally snack their slender bills to peck for food. Snowy on them. Ocotillos can Oracle Inn Steakhouse is located at 305 grow 10 to 20 feet tall. egrets normally munch on fish, crustaceans, E. American Avenue in Oracle. For more — KAYLA FROST information, call 520-896-3333 or visit frogs, snakes, lizards and insects.

STEVEN MECKLER STEVEN www.oracleinn.com. — KAYLA FROST

12 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 13 lodging � �

things to do � in arizona � Gathering of the Gunfighters January 10-11, Yuma Relive the Wild West at Yuma Territo- rial Prison State Historic Park, where visitors can watch re-enactment groups in gunfight and costume competitions. Food, beverage and Western-art vendors will be on hand. Infor­mation: 928-328-8716 or www. yumaprison.org Balloon Festival January 16-18, Lake Havasu City See dozens of colorful hot-air balloons rise over Lake Havasu at this event, which also includes antique and classic cars, carnival rides, live entertainment, kids activities and more. Information: 928-486-7979 or www.golakehavasu.com African Children’s Choir January 18, Chandler Singers ages 7 to 10 perform traditional and contemporary songs at the Chan- dler Center for the Arts. This concert tour raises awareness of the needs of destitute and orphaned children in Africa. Information: 480-782-2680 or www.chandlercenter.org Dillinger Days

THE JOURNAL January 23-24, Tucson The historic Hotel Congress com- memorates the 80th anniversary of gangster John Dillinger’s capture in Tucson. Activities include whiskey- tasting, re-enactments and live music. Proceeds benefit the Greater Tucson Fire Foundation. Information: 800-722- 8848 or www.hotelcongress.com MARK LIPCZYNSKI Casino Night January 30, Wickenburg Grand Highland Hotel Spin the wheel, throw the dice and join in the festivities at this Desert THE GRAND HOTEL ROSE from the ashes of the 1900 fire that destroyed Whiskey Row Caballeros Western Museum event. and much of Prescott. Built in 1903, it’s now seeing new life in the wake of a second fire, All proceeds benefit the museum, In 1904, photography which destroyed three adjacent businesses in 2012 and left the second-story a leading exhibitor of Western art. pioneers Emery and prescott hotel — which then housed apartments — severely damaged by smoke and Information: 928-684-2272 or www. Ellsworth Kolb built their westernmuseum.org water. In the aftermath, second-generation owners Howard and Nancy Hinson studio and home on the edge wondered how to move forward. Slowly, the idea of a hotel took shape. The Hinsons peeled Photo Workshop of the Grand Canyon’s South back damaged lath and plaster, exposing brick. They removed ceilings and ductwork, April 23-27, Grand Canyon Rim. The landmark became restoring 10-foot ceilings. Carpet and linoleum gave way to original alder floors. The hotel Hike down the South Kaibab Trail and as much a part of history as reopened in 2013 as the boutique Grand Highland Hotel, each of its 12 guest rooms deco- spend two nights at Phantom Ranch in their groundbreaking works rated to reflect some aspect of Prescott’s history. Since then, you might say the place has this workshop led by Arizona Highways of art. We need your help to contributor Suzanne Mathia. While the taken off like a house on fire. — KATHY MONTGOMERY keep the history alive. hiking will be strenuous, the views of the Grand Canyon will be unparalleled. The Grand Highland Hotel is located at 154 S. Montezuma Street in Prescott. Information: 888-790-7042 or www. For more information, call 928-776-9963 or visit www.grandhighlandhotel.com. ahpw.org

14 JANUARY 2015 For more events, visit www.arizonahighways.com/events.

JOB: 5172_Kolb_Print-ArizonaHighways-TheEdge-8.375x10.8125 PUB: Arizona Highways SIZE: 8.375" x 10.8125" COLORS: 4C OUTPUT DATE: 03/13/14 The snow-cloaked San Francisco Peaks loom over a wintry landscape near Flagstaff.| TOM BROWNOLD Weekend Getaways Flagstaff, Sedona, Bisbee ... there’s a lot to do in those three places, and trying to fit it all into one weekend can be tough. To make things a little easier, we put together itineraries of where to eat, sleep, hike and splurge. We also threw in some history, something for the kids and more. By Noah Austin, Robert Stieve & Kelly Vaughn Kramer

16 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 17 WEEKEND GETAWAYS Flagstaff

EAT ally through an open grove of downtown, the Riordan Mansion Brix ponderosas, past the Kachina is actually two homes connected “Our menu changes season- Trail and into the Kachina Peaks by a “rendezvous room.” It was ally to ensure that we serve only Wilderness. Just past the wilder- built in 1904 for Timothy and the freshest ingredients from ness boundary, it skirts the ridge Michael Riordan, two brothers our local and regional network of a shaded canyon. The trees are who owned the Arizona Lumber of friends.” That’s the philoso- a kaleidoscope of greens in spring and Timber Co. They were phy at Brix, which is located in and summer. Moving on, the partners in just about every the historic Carriage House in trail becomes a series of gradual way — they even married a set of downtown Flagstaff. Among switchbacks, and the vegetation sisters. Today, the 13,000-square- others, its network includes changes from ponderosas and foot home is a state park, which Hayden Mills in Tempe, Ridgeview aspens to alpine species, includ- gives a detailed look at the lives Farms in Paulden and Black Mesa ing corkbark firs and Engelmann of the rich and famous in the Ranch in Snowflake. Through spruce. Eventually, it arrives at a early 1900s. Designed by Charles those sources, Brix is able to put point where the forest opens up Whittlesey, who also engineered together a dinner menu that and views of the peaks steal the the Grand Canyon’s El Tovar, the features selections such as chile- show. From there, it’s a quick hop home combines a rustic exterior roasted duck breast, a variety of to the top of Doyle Saddle, the (gnarly logs and native stone) artisan cheeses and a wine list turnaround point for this hike. with a rich interior (Tiffany stained that rivals the best restaurants in || Flagstaff Ranger District, 928- glass and a 1904 Steinway). || 409 Scottsdale. || 413 N. San Francisco 526-0866, www.fs.usda.gov/ W. Riordan Road, 928-779-4395, Street, 928-213-1021, www. coconino www.azstateparks.com brixflagstaff.com DRIVE KIDS HIKE Volcanoes & Ruins Loop Lowell Observatory Weatherford Trail History, geology, archaeology ... Of all the things Flagstaff is This easy-to-follow route that’s just some of what you’ll famous for, the brightest star (14.8 miles round-trip) begins at learn on this 73-mile (from might be the Lowell Observatory, Schultz Tank and climbs gradu- Flagstaff) scenic loop, which gets from which Pluto was discovered. especially scenic near Bonito Park Established in 1894 by Percival Campground, in the shadow of Lowell, the observatory sits about Sunset Crater. Heading north from 300 feet above the city. Lowell, PHOTO OP the prominent landmark, the road who moved west from New Eng- Monument. The Island Trail, a SPLURGE thing delicious. || 2924 E. Historic for travelers with a penchant for San Francisco drops from a landscape of trees land, was obsessed with the final 1-mile loop that starts at the Cherry Pie Route 66, 928-526-0104 history and literature. || 23 N. Peaks and lava to the desert grasslands frontier. More than anything, he visitors center, takes hikers past at Miz Zip’s Leroux Street, 928-779-1919, The mountain range of Wupatki National Monument, wanted to prove there were little 25 of these prehistoric rooms. For this listing, we singled out SLEEP www.weatherfordhotel.com that looms over where you’ll eventually arrive at green men on Mars, and Northern The trail is steep, dropping nearly cherry pie, but any of the pies at Weatherford Hotel Flagstaff includes the abandoned ruins of the Sina- Arizona, with its high altitude 200 feet, and coming out requires Miz Zip’s — lemon, blackberry, The Weatherford was a favorite BONUS Humphreys Peak, guan people. From the ruins, the and cloudless skies, seemed like a hike up 240 steps. Small by coconut, blueberry, apple, of Western novelist Zane Grey — Buffalo Park the highest point in rest of the loop winds for about the place to do it — Flagstaff was modern standards, the rooms rhubarb, pumpkin — qualify as so much so that in 1997, hotel pro- There are many great hikes in the Arizona, and it’s also 10 miles back to U.S. Route 89, designated the world’s first Inter- average about 80 square feet — comfort food. The delicate, flaky prietors opened a ballroom in his mountains around Flagstaff, but home to the state’s and then south back to Flagstaff. national Dark Sky City. To walk in enough space to sleep and store crust is a big part of that, but so honor. In one of his most famous they take time. For a quick dose only tundra region. || Sunset Crater Volcano National his footsteps, kid-friendly tours valuables. Homes were simple is the ambience of the restau- novels, Call of the Canyon, Grey of fresh air, head to Buffalo Park, Depending on the Monument, 928-526-0502, www. are offered daily. || 1400 W. Mars and systematic. After visiting the rant. Like all classic diners along mentioned a hotel fireplace that which sits atop McMillan Mesa in season, your photo nps.gov/sucr; Wupatki National Hill Road, 928-774-3358, www. ruins in the early 1900s, novel- Historic Route 66, this one comes hadn’t been used or even seen in the shadow of the San Francisco might include wild- Monument, 928-679-2365, www. lowell.edu ist Willa Cather wrote: “All the with comfy booths and nostalgia decades. Because of the book, it Peaks. The main attraction of flowers, storm clouds nps.gov/wupa houses in the canyon were clean of all sorts on the walls. The best was rediscovered behind parti- the park is an easy 2-mile loop or even a rainbow. HISTORY with the cleanness of sun-baked, part, though, is the green-marble, tions in the hotel’s restaurant. A that circles a grassy meadow. The | SHANE MCDERMOTT ATTRACTION Walnut Canyon wind-swept places, and they all horseshoe-shaped counter. Not pet project of John Weatherford, trail itself is wide and wheelchair Riordan Mansion National Monument smelled of the tough little cedars much has changed since Miz Zip’s a developer who also oversaw the accessible. Before it became a city For a taste of local Flagstaff Cliff dwellings are scattered that twisted themselves into the opened in 1952, and that’s a good construction of the town’s New park, the area was a private wild- Walnut Canyon is home to history, head to the Riordan throughout the Southwest, but very doorways.” || 3 Walnut Can- thing. Especially if you’re willing Weatherford Opera House — now life park. Thus the name. || 2400 some of the Southwest’s most Mansion. Pronounced “Rear-din” few are more accessible than yon Road, 928-526-3367, www. to forget about calories for a few the Orpheum — the hotel opened N. Gemini Road, 800-379-0065, accessible cliff dwellings.| TOM BEAN and located a mile or so from those in Walnut Canyon National nps.gov/waca minutes and splurge on some- in 1900. Today, it’s a favorite stop www.flagstaffarizona.org

18 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 19 WEEKEND GETAWAYS Sedona

EAT Mountain Wilderness. There, the office. That’s how Sedona was Instead, you’ll pay a $1 admis- all bargain in Sedona” and the Elote Café sounds of the city disappear and born. Today, the 13-mile Schnebly sion fee, and you’ll pay (by total “best breakfast in Sedona.” When it comes to Mexican food, you’ll catch your first glimpse of Hill Road remains about as rug- length) for each trout you catch. || 2050 State Route 89A, 928-282- chef Jeff Smedstad knows what’s Sedona’s famed red rocks. Unlike ged as it originally was, and it The farm encourages you to pack 6626, www.coffeepotsedona.com what. After traveling across some of the more famous trails to climbs through red-rock canyons in additional food to create a full- Mexico, eating in local markets the north, this one isn’t domi- to its intersection with Interstate fledged meal. Mac and cheese SLEEP and culling authentic ingredients nated by the picturesque geology 17, traversing some of the area’s optional. || 3500 State Route Garland’s Oak Creek Lodge — and garnering mucho respect that epitomizes Sedona. Instead, most beautiful scenery. The main 89A, 928-282-5799, www.sedona With the possible exception of for his efforts at Los Sombreros its highlight is a beautiful riparian attraction of the drive is Schnebly rainbowtroutfarm.com El Tovar, which has the unfair in Scottsdale — he opened Elote area and plenty of solitude. The Hill Vista. At an elevation of advantage of being perched on Café in 2008. Since then, it’s been trail is most spectacular where it 6,000 feet, it overlooks Steam- HISTORY the edge of the world’s Seventh Sedona’s go-to place for tortillas, meets the intersection of Rattle- boat Rock, Oak Creek, Mingus Palatki Heritage Site Natural Wonder, Garland’s Oak tamales and, of course, elote. The snake and Woods canyons and Mountain, the Verde Valley and, In the Hopi language, Palatki Creek Lodge is arguably the most fire-roasted corn, inspired by the drops into the boulder-strewn of course, the town of Sedona, translates to “Red House.” And scenic place to spend a night in cobs peddled by Mexican street wash of Dry Beaver Creek. || Red which has grown by leaps and even though the Hopis have no Arizona. Lodge, hotel, B&B, camp- vendors, comes served with spicy Rock Ranger District, 928-282- bounds since Schnebly petitioned specific ties to the ruins, Palatki site … good luck finding accommo- mayo, lime and cotija cheese. 4119, www.fs.usda.gov/coconino for that post office.|| Red Rock and its sister site, Honanki, were dations with a better view. And, it’s a primo antecedent to Ranger District, 928-282-4119, the largest Sinaguan cliff dwell- Located in the heart of Oak Creek a spate of other authentic menu DRIVE www.fs.usda.gov/coconino ings in the area between A.D. 1100 Canyon, about 8 miles north of items, from carne asada to lamb Schnebly Hill Road and A.D. 1300. In other words, Sedona, Garland’s is surrounded adobo. || 771 State Route 179, 928- When Carl Schnebly arrived in ATTRACTION ages ago. Today, the ruins are by millions of years of red-rock 203-0105, www.elotecafe.com Oak Creek in 1900, he used what Chapel of the Holy Cross accessible via three trails: one geology, towering pines and was then known as Munds Road The Chapel of the Holy Cross that takes you up to the dwell- hearty oaks. Among other things, HIKE — a former wagon route — to has been one of Sedona’s most ings, one that climbs to a view the large cabins at the lodge Woods Canyon Trail transport lumber from Flagstaff. beloved landmarks since 1956. The of the dwellings and another come with wood-burning fire- This easy-to-follow, 8-mile- Then, he used the lumber to build concrete-and-glass structure is that leads to alcoves that shelter places, and the small creekside round-trip trail begins just off a home, used the road once again dominated by a 90-foot cross and pictographs made by the native cabins feature porches overlook- State Route 179, but within to ferry produce to his general was conceptualized by sculptor people who occupied the Verde ing Oak Creek. Other than maybe minutes, it enters the Munds store, and petitioned for a post Marguerite Brunswig Staude, who, Valley. Groups of up to 10 people a room perched on the edge of after years of land-purchasing and are allowed access to the dwell- the Grand Canyon, it doesn’t get permit acquisitions, finally hired ings in 20-minute intervals, and any better than this. || 8067 State San Francisco architects Anshen & reservations are recommended. Route 89A, 928-282-3343, www. Allen to design the Catholic chapel. Otherwise, you may have to garlandslodge.com Today, people of all denomina- wait ages for access. || Red Rock tions and from around the globe Ranger District, 928-282-3854 BONUS visit the chapel, which is operated (reservations), www.fs.usda.gov/ Sedona Bike & Bean by the Roman Catholic Diocese coconino Weekend adventurers are known of Phoenix. || 780 Chapel Road, for their dine-and-dash mentality 928-282-4069, www.chapelofthe SPLURGE — not in the juvenile-thievery con- holycross.com Omelets at Coffee notation of the phrase, but in the Pot Restaurant grab-a-bite-and-get-on-the-road KIDS There are 101 omelets on the sense of it. That’s what makes Rainbow Trout Farm menu at Coffee Pot Restaurant. Sedona Bike & Bean so great. Kids and fishin’ go together like One hundred. And one. Some There, you can rent a mountain mac and cheese, and at Sedona’s of them might sound a little bike for cruising Sedona’s count- Rainbow Trout Farm, little ones strange — take the jelly, peanut less trails and grab a latte for can hook a trout or 10. Tucked butter and banana option, for the road at the store’s nine-seat along Oak Creek and promising example — but if you’re looking to coffee counter. Many bike tours, PHOTO OP entertainment for the entire pack in some protein before you including some that explore the Red Rock Country family, the farm also offers fishing dart around town, the Coffee Pot trails near Bell Rock — just outside Sedona’s sandstone formations are among the most equipment, bait, picnic tables is your best bet. Since the 1950s, the Bike & Bean’s windows — photographed rocks in the world, and they contrast and grill kits — lemon, butter, salt, the family owned restaurant has depart from the shop. || 75 Bell nicely with the surrounding green foliage. For the best Snow blankets the landscape of Oak Creek, a popular hiking pepper and utensils. There’s no been a favorite among locals, Rock Plaza, 928-284-0210, www. photos, have your camera ready around sunrise or destination just north of Sedona. | MARK FRANK catch-and-release policy here. who’ve dubbed it “the best over- bike-bean.com sunset. | GUY SCHMICKLE

20 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 21 WEEKEND GETAWAYS Bisbee

EAT network of short, easy trails, in- Landmark, home to a ranch that Café Roka cluding one that parallels the San dates to the 1840s. And if you’re The historic Costello Building Pedro River. It’s been designated a fan of scenic landscapes, there opened in 1907, and thanks to its a Globally Important Bird Area, are plenty along this route, pressure-fired bricks, it withstood and the Bureau of Land Manage- including views of the Peloncillo a 1908 fire that leveled much of ment has documented more than Mountains. || Douglas Ranger Bisbee. Since 1993, it’s housed 370 avian species there, including District, 520-364-3468, www. Café Roka, which serves up chef- green kingfishers, Lucy’s warblers fs.usda.gov/coronado owner Rod Kass’ unique takes on and yellow-billed cuckoos. modern American cuisine. Roka’s || Friends of the San Pedro River, ATTRACTION menu changes often, but regulars’ www.sanpedroriver.org; Bureau Mining & Historical Museum favorites include lamb meatballs, of Land Management, 520-439- Bisbee started out as a copper- lobster ravioli and roasted duck. 6400, www.blm.gov/az mining town, and this Smithson- If you’re looking for something ian-affiliated museum celebrates really unique, try Kass’ lasa- DRIVE that heritage with Digging In, gna, which includes portobello Geronimo Trail an award-winning exhibit that mushrooms and artichokes. || 35 Once a major migration corridor explores how copper-mining Main Street, 520-432-5153, www. for Apache Indians and Spanish contributed to the electrifica- caferoka.com explorers, this route extends tion of America in the late 1800s. 80 miles from Douglas, Arizona, You’ll also find a research library HIKE to Animas, New Mexico. Today, it that includes 100 years of local San Pedro Riparian offers scenery and solitude along newspapers on microfilm and National Conservation Area the U.S.-Mexico border. History 7,000 historical photographs. Bird watchers flock to this 57,000- buffs will want to stop at the || 5 Copper Queen Plaza, 520-432- acre preserve, which features a San Bernardino National Historic 7071, www.bisbeemuseum.org

KIDS Queen Mine Tour There’s no pickax experience necessary on this tour, which takes visitors on a train ride 1,500 feet into one of Bisbee’s most famous copper mines. The mine shut down in the 1970s, but since then, more than a mil- lion people have taken the trip underground. The tour guides are retired miners who share their PHOTO OP own stories about the dangers Seven Cities of Cibola. Attractions The coffee shop usually has It later reopened, and today it is a 30-something woman named Chihuahua Hill and drama of mining. And even include 600-foot-long Coronado eight ice-cream flavors (includ- rents out seven newly renovated Julia Lowell. The story goes that Known locally as in summer, you’ll want to take a Cave, which features numerous ing non-dairy options) available, rooms. In 2004, Bisbee artist Rose Lowell was a prostitute who used “B” Mountain (for sweater: The temperature in the limestone formations, and a sce- along with milkshakes, fudge and Johnson painted a mural on the the hotel to rendezvous with obvious reasons), mine is a constant 47 degrees. nic overlook at Montezuma Pass. other sweet treats. || 2 Copper side of the motel; it’s based on clients. She fell in love with one this 5,900-foot peak || 478 N. Dart Road, 866-432-2071, || Coronado National Memorial, Queen Plaza, 520-432-7931, www. a 1928 poem by Federico García of them, but when he didn’t fall overlooks Bisbee and www.queenminetour.com 520-366-5515, www.nps.gov/coro bisbeecoffee.com Lorca. || 317 Tombstone Canyon for her, she took her own life. offers great views of Road, 866-432-7371, www. Today, the Julia Lowell Room at the town. A short, HISTORY SPLURGE SLEEP thejonquil.com the hotel is named in Lowell’s easy trail to the top Coronado National Memorial Ice Cream at Jonquil Motel honor, and male employees and begins at the end of Located along the U.S.-Mexico Bisbee Coffee Co. A jonquil is a type of flower, but BONUS guests have reported hearing a OK Street in down- border, this memorial honors You might be a little chilly if you the Jonquil got its name from its Copper Queen Hotel feminine whisper and seeing a town Bisbee. Francisco Vázquez de Coro- just came out of the Queen Mine, founder, John Quill. He built the Bisbee is famous for its alleged woman dancing at the foot of | JILL RICHARDS nado, who explored much of the but once you’ve warmed up with motel in the 1930s, and he and his ghostly residents, and three of the stairs. || 11 Howell Avenue, Coronado National Memorial’s Montezuma Pass offers a view Southwest in the 1540s while a triple latte at Bisbee Coffee Co., family ran it until Bisbee’s copper them purportedly reside at the 520-432-2216, www.copper south into Mexico. | GEORGE H.H. HUEY he searched for the mythical how about something sweet? mines shut down in the 1970s. Copper Queen. The most famous queen.com

22 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 23 IT’S IN THE DETAILS For almost nine decades, we’ve been using photography to showcase the beauty of Arizona. Most of those images have been panoramic landscapes, but every once in a while, we like to send out a photographer with a macro lens. Thus this collection. A PORTFOLIO BY EIRINI PAJAK

Hopi tea greenthread sprouts at Las Cienegas National Conservation Area southeast of Tucson.

www.arizonahighways.com 25 PHOTO EDITOR’S NOTE: Most of the images in this portfolio feature a photographic technique known as focus-stacking. Photographer Eirini Pajak shoots with the lens almost wide open, then manually focuses through the plane of the flower one milli- meter at a time. She then “stacks” the images using a computer program. Doing so allows her to control the depth of field in the background and get focus through the subject.

A Mormon tea flower blooms in Florence. Mormon pioneers, along with Native Americans, used a beverage brewed from the plant for medicinal purposes — hence the name. Kaibab pussytoes huddle together in Flagstaff. The plant is found exclusively in the Four Corners states of Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and Utah.

26 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 27 LEFT: A jojoba plant reaches toward the sun in Florence. Jojoba oil is known for its heal- ing and restorative properties.

ABOVE: Droplets hang from blades of dry grass after a rain- storm in Florence.

www.arizonahighways.com 29 ABOVE: Three San Felipe dogweed blossoms show various stages of their life cycle in Florence. The species is known for its strong, unpleasant odor.

LEFT: Paloverde leaves add color to a cactus skeleton in Florence.

www.arizonahighways.com 31 THE GREAT BEYOND Almost 3 million people a year visit Lake Powell. It’s one of the most popular attractions in the HORSESHOE BEND: Southwest, but it’s not the only This Colorado River meander is known for sight worth seeing. Just beyond its blue-green water and the colorful sandstone buttes that surround it. the lake are several natural The overlook where this photo was made wonders, including Horseshoe is 1,100 feet above the river, and it’s accessible Bend, Buckskin Gulch and the via a 1.5-mile (round- trip) hike that begins a few miles south of Page otherworldly Antelope Canyon. on U.S. Route 89. TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY LADD

32 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 33 PA R I A PLATEAU: The landscape at Vermilion Cliffs National Monument includes pockets of “brain rock” — weathered gray sandstone named for its cerebral appearance.

GLEN CANYON BELOW THE DAM:A few miles upstream from Lees Ferry, red- bud trees bloom in the canyon bed. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is home to several extremely rare plant species, including the Copper Canyon milkvetch and the kachina daisy.

It was a March morning in 1963 when the canyons of the would become Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, was a Colorado River were transformed. It was then that Glen Can- half-forgotten back eddy. Navajo Bridge, 5 miles downstream, yon Dam took control of the river’s flow and gave birth to Lake had siphoned off the ferry’s automobile traffic in the late 1920s, Powell — a few miles upstream from Grand Canyon. and Glen Canyon Dam had nixed all Glen Canyon river trips. The upstart lake’s Monument Valley-like setting and maze of Grand Canyon river-running, however, was on the brink twisting channels and spacious bays were expected to take cen- of an explosion, and Lees Ferry was and is the most viable ter stage in the region’s future economic and recreational life. launching point. Although only 100 people had run the Colo- But now, looking back 52 years, that expectation may have rado River through Grand Canyon in all of history as of about been too simplistic. Not because of what has or hasn’t hap- 1950, the numbers grew quickly, and by 1972, more than 15,000 pened at the lake, but because of the astonishing array of natu- river runners were shoving off every year. And the numbers ral wonders that have been discovered and recognized in the continued to rise. surrounding region. A similar story unfolded at Antelope Canyon, just beyond In 1963, Lees Ferry, Arizona, at the southern end of what the city limits of Page, which was founded to support the con-

34 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 35 SLICK-ROCK WILDERNESS: Erosion has sculpted this intricate formation from a sandstone ridge.

struction of the dam. As the dam was rising from the riverbed, Antelope Canyon was known to local residents as “The Cork- screw” and the “Skinny Caves,” perfect settings for picnics and spooky adventures into the heart of Jurassic bedrock. The outside world eventually caught wind of the canyon’s beauty in the mid-1980s. Today, Antelope Canyon is a Navajo tribal park hosting thousands of visitors per day. Many other slot canyons hide below the surface nearby. There’s another doozy about 25 miles west of Page in the heart COLORADO RIVER: of what has become Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. It’s Four miles upstream called Buckskin Gulch, a legendary slot-canyon corridor in from Lees Ferry, a today’s hiking world. But back in 1963, it was known to ranch- blooming tamarisk ers as “The Dive,” a deadly trap for cows desperate for water. leans out over the Buckskin Gulch sneaks along the edge of Coyote Buttes, an tranquil river. The area celebrated for its swirling sandstone shapes and surreal jagged Echo Peak looms in the distance. colors, and a terrain so implausibly fanciful that it seems more illusion than landscape. The world-famous “Wave” resides in Coyote Buttes, and it alone is a powerful hiker temptation. [Continued on page 41]

36 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 37 BUCKSKIN GULCH:Late-afternoon sun casts intricate shadows on the walls of LEES FERRY:Buckwheat blooms beneath Cathedral Rock, a formation near Navajo this narrow slot canyon at Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. The canyon has become Bridge. The Vermilion Cliffs glow with morning light in the background. a premier destination for slot-canyon hikers.

38 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 39 COYOTE BUTTES:Alternating layers of red and tan sandstone catch the late- afternoon light at Coyote Buttes South, part of Vermilion Cliffs National Monument.

[Continued from page 37] The entire Coyote Buttes area, however, And then there’s Horseshoe Bend. It didn’t begin to attract is remarkable. It is, in fact, a place where the photographic pos- attention until the late 1980s, even though Evel Knievel consid- sibilities are numerous enough to induce a kind of pictorial ver- ered it as a possible location for a daredevil motorcycle jump tigo. Images of Coyote Buttes now routinely appear in fine-art 20 years before. galleries, geology textbooks, advertisements, outdoor maga- The drop to the Colorado River at Horseshoe Bend measures zines and calendars worldwide. 1,100 feet, twice the height of the Washington Monument, Just north and east of Vermilion Cliffs National Monument more than enough to make most visitors shrink from the edge is Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which was after a brief peek at the green river below their toes. designated a park in 1996. Although it’s not as well known as Routes and roads to the Wahweap Hoodoos, the Tropic COLORADO some other reserves, it features the magnificent Escalante Can- Shale badlands, helicopter shuttles to the top of Tower Butte RIVER: Rocks surround dry yon complex, arches, hoodoos and endless high plateaus, all of and half-day river trips that begin at the base of the dam grass at the Paria Riffle which spurred the park’s creation. add still more to the area’s ensemble of geologic wonders. near Lees Ferry. A Only later was it realized that the monument’s interior con- It’s enough to make you forget about ... what was the name riffle is a part of a river cealed an astonishing hoard of paleontological assets: bones of that lake? or stream where the and trackways from the age of dinosaurs. A Bureau of Land water is shallower and Management visitors center in Big Water, Utah, a few miles more turbulent than For more information, call the Page-Lake Powell Chamber of Commerce at 928-645- elsewhere on the west of Page, focuses on the park’s paleontological wonders. 2741 or visit www.pagechamber.com. waterway. 40 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 41 Andrew Welmers, a Boy Scout from Troop 65 in Wood Dale, Illinois, prepares to remove his blindfold and get his first in-person look at the Grand Canyon. The Scouts in the troop trained for nine months for their rim-to-rim-to-rim hike.

For almost 50 years, a troop of Boy Scouts from suburban Chicago has been making regular trips to Arizona to hike the Grand Canyon. In July, they were back, but instead of just hiking rim-to-rim-to-rim, Troop 65 also delivered a check for $4,500. BY ANNETTE McGIVNEY PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN BURCHAM

HE ANTICIPATION was almost unbearable. One

morning last July, as a light drizzle fell on Mather

Campground at the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, Boy

Scouts of America Troop 65 from Wood Dale, Illinois,

was doing last-minute preparations for an epic rim-to- rim-to-rim hike. The day before, the boys had been blindfolded and ushered to the edge of the South Rim, where, once the blindfolds were removed, they laid eyes on the Grand Canyon for the first time.

“It was astounding,” said one of the Scouts as he watched adults divvy up ramen, dried fruit and cheese crackers into backpacks.

“Now that we’re finally going into the Grand Canyon, I’m nervous and kind of scared.”

Composed of 12 boys, ages 13 to 16, and 10 adults, the group had been preparing for nine months for the 50-mile trans-Canyon hike.

During 300 miles of training, they shouldered heavy backpacks

42 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 43 The troop’s initial goal was to raise $1,000 for the project, but by the time the Scouts reached the Grand Canyon in late July, people back home had pledged $4,500. been to the Grand Canyon, Troop 65 has been doing CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: a rim-to-rim-to-rim hike about every four years since Peter Wedemann (left) and Sam Nearing lead Troop 65 1967. For Zollner, 67, who has been the Scoutmaster off Boy Scouts toward the Grand Canyon’s South Rim to get and on for 30 years, it was his 10th trans-Canyon trek. their first glimpse at the Seventh Natural Wonder. Over the years, he and other adult leaders have per- Jeff Jakalski guides a blindfolded Nick Mercado to the fected how to do the ambitious trip safely. rim for his first look at the Canyon. “Their approach of minimalist backpacking and Two Scouts identify Canyon formations they previously taking adequate time to cover a lot of ground is saw only in photographs. exactly what we like to see,” says longtime backcoun- try ranger Bil Vandergraff, who over the years has par- ticipated in numerous park rescues of less-prepared while slogging across sand dunes around Lake Michi- Scout troops, as well as evacuations of injured hikers. gan. And when a long winter drove them indoors, they “They are doing everything right.” hiked in a gym. Now they were about to do the real Six days after setting out from the South Rim, Troop thing: hike down the South Rim, up the North Rim, 65 reached Indian Garden Campground for their last down the North Rim and back up the South Rim. night of the trek. All the preparation had paid off, and “Our total elevation gain and loss on this hike will the difficult hike had gone off without a hitch. And be greater than climbing Mount Everest,” said Troop two big surprises awaited them. As a way of showing 65 Scoutmaster Rich Zollner. “But I’m constantly appreciation for the troop’s hard work, park rangers reminding the boys that this is not a race — it’s an baked cupcakes for the kids and had them waiting at adventure.” the campground, located For most Scout troops, a Grand Canyon rim-to-rim- 4.8 miles below the South to-rim hike is ambitious enough. But Troop 65 set the Rim. The Scouts also bar even higher. “We didn’t just want to take from the learned a donor from Canyon,” said Zollner. “Part of what we’re doing with the Grand Canyon Asso- this trip is giving back, and also, hopefully, improving ciation was so inspired the reputation of Scouts in the park.” by their efforts that he In addition to months of physical and mental offered to match the preparation for the expedition, the members of Troop funds the Scouts raised. 65 went from door to door in their suburban-Chicago In all, $9,000 would community to ask people to pledge money for every be donated toward the mile the Scouts planned to hike in the Grand Canyon. $35,000 picnic-table proj- The funds will go toward replacing 33 picnic tables ect thanks to Troop 65. at Indian Garden Campground that are splintering “Plenty of Scouts come and falling apart. The troop’s initial goal was to raise to hike Grand Canyon, $1,000 for the project, but by the time the Scouts but this is the first time reached the Grand Canyon in late July, people back we’ve had a troop raise home had pledged $4,500. money for the park as part After a day of acclimatizing and preparing at Mather of their trip,” says Helen Campground, the Scouts began their descent of the Ranney of the Grand South Kaibab Trail at 3 a.m., with the goal of reaching Canyon Association. The Bright Angel Campground at the bottom of the Grand association, the park’s Canyon by 9 a.m. Because the troop was hiking in July nonprofit partner, manages fundraising efforts and and August, when temperatures in the Canyon’s inner is spearheading the replacement of Indian Garden’s gorge can reach triple digits, the Scouts would stretch shabby benches with tables made of galvanized steel the trans-Canyon journey across seven days, always that will be flown to the campground by helicopter. hitting the trail by 3 a.m. and breaking up the ambi- “What these boys are doing inspires others to support tious route into manageable stretches. The pre-dawn the place they love,” Ranney says. starts left plenty of time each day for splashing in the From the Scouts’ perspective, the trek was as hard creek at camp, playing cards and taking well-deserved as they had expected but more rewarding than they afternoon naps. In addition to the cautious itinerary, had ever dreamed. “When we got to Indian Garden, I Troop 65 minimized problems on the trail by keeping was so tired, and I just wanted a sturdy, clean bench the weight of the Scouts’ backpacks under 18 pounds. to sit on,” said one of the boys. “I feel like a good Each Scout carried only a sheet, a tarp, food and water. person because we have helped all the hikers coming While it was the first time most of the Scouts had after us have a nice place to rest.”

44 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 45 AN ESSAY BY CHARLES BOWDEN

OWARD EVENING DURING the hot breath of summer, the desert air matches the body temperature and the line dissolves between your body and the world around you. As a boy, I’d walk the dog under a tree in the MYSTERIOUS LITTLE BIRDS corner of the park at twilight and hummingbirds would hover just over my Depending on the time of year, as many as 15 species of hummingbirds can be found in Arizona. They come in a rainbow head. I knew nothing of their customs or various nations then. But my boy’s eyes glimpsed an open door as the night came down and the promise of what of colors, but beyond that, we don’t know a lot about them — there isn’t much research on their sounds, social moves, courtship I could be and learn if I left the everyday world and spun up into the sky. For a long time I seemed to lose that feeling, but now I want to find that open door again. A rufous comes to the feeder, a blaze of rust and gold to my flights or what any of this means. As our writer writes: “They hover right in front of our face, but we hardly know their worlds.” eye. A year ago, one was banded a few miles from where I sit, and 18 days later it was netted again 1,300 miles north in British Columbia. The bird is tiny, and within its flash of color and that huge distance is the magic I glimpsed as a boy and now want back. Susan Wethington sits at the table on Harshaw Creek close by the Mexican bor- der. She is a founder of the Hummingbird Monitoring Network (HMN). Arizona hosts 14 or 15 species of hummingbirds, and increasingly a raft of guides and bed- and-breakfast spots cater to those drawn to the birds. And yet not much is known about them. The network (10 to 13 sites in Canada, the U.S. and Mexico, plus 300 to 400 volunteers) sets out to find out what they are up to. Her husband, Lee, is busy trapping, and Susan and an assistant examine and band them. Susan was a computer-development engineer for IBM, then fell in love with hum- mingbirds, went back to school for a doctorate in ecology and evolutionary biology, and is the center of the Hummingbird Monitoring Network. She can’t quite say what drove her to this decision. She is a person who has always taken life one step at a time and then one day, she says, “I knew I had to take a different step.” Maybe what moved her from IBM to this small Editor’s Note: If you’re a watershed is captured in the motto of HMN: “Protect the Joy.” longtime reader of Arizona As I watch her I can feel the wonder of those moments under Highways, you’re familiar with that tree in the park. The crack in the sky once again opens up Charles Bowden. For decades, for me. his beautiful words have been It’s a little before 6 a.m. at the tail end of July, and she cra- appearing on the pages of our dles a broad-billed male. magazine. Sadly, Mr. Bowden As hummingbirds go, the broad-billed is small — 3 to 4 died unexpectedly on August grams, less than an ounce. It’s a border bird, poking up from its 30, 2014. Like so many others, wintering ground in Mexico to breed into Arizona, New Mex- we were devastated by the ico and the Big Bend area of Texas. We don’t know much about news. As a writer, teacher and it — there is not much research on its sounds, social moves, friend, he leaves a void that courtship flights or what any of this means. This is pretty cannot be filled. much our current knowledge of hummingbirds. They hover right in front of our face, but we hardly know their worlds. Susan holds the bird in her right hand, checks its weight and general condition — Does it have fat? Is it molting? — and slips on a band. The bird is green with a splash of blue at the throat, an orange bill with a dark tip, everything we find beautiful. In front of Susan are 10 different band sizes on spikes in a rack made by Lee. There is a separate rack of tiny pliers he’s also made. Lee’s another retired IBM engineer. He’s fashioned the net traps he springs to catch hummingbirds. And off to the side of their house is a bread oven he fashioned because Susan loves to bake — “She still owes me some cookies.” But everything here comes in second to hummingbirds. A calliope hummingbird The broad-billed birds earn a kind of affection from her because after all the surveys its surroundings in weighing and measuring and banding, they remain very calm and will sit on an Springerville. Adult open palm sometimes for minutes before they fly away in a flash. The observations calliopes are just 3.5 inches go into a computer database, and inside all these captures — here and at the other long, making them the smallest bird species found sites — there is the promise of finally learning a little of what that broad-billed in the United States. knows. And what the other hummingbirds know. BRUCE D. TAUBERT This morning the traffic is mainly broad-billed, rufous, violet-crowned, Costa’s,

www.arizonahighways.com 47 black-chinned. When they set up the banding operation about ship dives to dazzle females, a male hits a G-force of nine times 10 miles east on the grasslands around Sonoita, the traffic was gravity, something in the range experienced by a jet fighter. almost totally male black-chinneds. There are highways out They have such high energy needs that they go into a kind there known to hummingbirds that are just coming to our of torpor at night, the heartbeat falling from 1,200 a minute to attention, just as there are traffic customs — separate migra- 200 lest they starve to death before dawn. And yet, somehow, tions of males, females, juveniles — that we are only beginning one of the smaller hummingbirds, the rufous, migrates from to brush against. We know male broad-billeds seem to have Southern Mexico up to Alaska, 2,700 miles each way. In their favorite singing perches, but we are ignorant of the purpose of journey, people with feeders always know when they are mov- their dawn and evening songs. ing through because even in the busy world of hummingbirds Hummingbirds hail from back of the beyond, possibly their boisterous ways stand out and suddenly a backyard feels 20 or 30 million years ago, but the growth of the species came as if an outlaw motorcycle gang has descended. in South America 12 to All this is part of what took Susan from the computer indus- 13 million years ago when try to a table and banding station on Harshaw Creek. But If you want to see the widest the Andes rose up. Their beneath all the claims of science a kind of magic lurks, and past is hard to track — the within the magic is simply the hunger to know what humming- array of hummingbirds in the U.S., tiny bones do not lend birds are about. They are creatures of habit. In the spring, 60 to themselves to fossil preser- 70 percent of the birds captured on the creek have already been vation. The oldest fragment banded — this drops to about 30 percent in the late summer as you come to Southern Arizona. was found in Germany. the newly hatched birds show up at the feeders. She is working Today, they exist solely in on a young black-chinned now, delicately placing a band, and And if you want to see the only the Western Hemisphere it keeps chirping — “They tend to talk” — and Susan stares and were a surprise to through her four-power visor and says things like “Cool.” She Europeans when they looks up and sees Lee has a rare failure at trapping a hummer, Two hummingbirds, a black-chinned (top) and a future worth being part of, you stumbled onto this New and she says, “Bummer.” rufous, compete for nectar. World. But hardly to the The individual birds are hanging in sacks from a carousel Hummingbirds are known to join the world of hummingbirds. natives. Almost any culture Lee has created and wait their turn. When Susan has finished, fight for food and territory. that knew hummingbirds she hands them off to Denise Sandoval Quintana, a student BRUCE D. TAUBERT took note of them. The from Ciudad Obregon, to weigh. Denise is part of the outreach Aztec emperor wore a robe of the network, and at the moment other students from Bolivia, of hummingbird skins. Ecuador and Peru are also working the creek, a defile lined can be wrenching. On the other hand, science has tried to look hummingbirds seem to promise redemption, whatever the real Huitzilopochtli, the sun with cottonwoods and sycamores and stretches of water from at hummingbirds from the beginning to now and finds more reason for their behavior. and war god, was portrayed the summer monsoon. Sometimes the birds are a little flus- than 300 species, and if this growth is pushed ahead millions Which is part of Susan’s hope and possibly her own experi- as a hummingbird. It was tered from being kidnapped in the name of science, and Denise of years there could be 700 types of hummingbirds eventually, ence. thought that dead warriors will hold one in her hand, swoop down as if to a flower, and a possibility that tantalizes Susan. “Hummingbirds,” she argues, “are one of the few animals became hummingbirds. insert its bill in a feeder on the table. At the table on this summer morning on Harshaw Creek people connect with immediately, and every culture with hum- Americans began to “And then they calm right down,” Susan notes. down near that Mexican border, Susan becomes the confluence mingbirds has a positive connection. I think hummingbirds really look at humming- The work goes on amid sounds — the call of a yellow-billed between the rigor of science and the drive of her passion. She is provide an opportunity to engage people in nature and open birds about 70 years ago. cuckoo, the chirp of a hooded oriole in the mesquite, the whir- all numbers as she fills in the form on her clipboard with data eyes to the natural world. And quite frankly, if we can’t save The first successful field ring of hummingbirds that continue to feed on flowers around on each bird. She teaches classes on banding and finds that hummingbirds, what group of animals can we save?” guide did not come until the lab table, the light clatter of little tools as Susan moves not everyone can do it, that dealing with something as small, By 10:45, 60 birds have been tagged and processed. the 1930s, and humming- from one task to another, and the soft sound of Susan blow- fragile and lively as a hummingbird requires a certain touch. If you want to see the widest array of hummingbirds in the bird feeders only hit the ing through a straw to lift up the chest feathers and check the She rolls a bird over, blows through her straw and there sud- U.S., you come to Southern Arizona. And if you want to see the Denise Sandoval Quintana holds market around 1950. We’re birds for the fat they will need for the looming migration. This denly is the puncture wound left when another hummingbird only future worth being part of, you join the world of hum- a hummingbird at a banding station along Harshaw Creek near still almost on our first is science with a hummingbird face. stabbed it with its beak. mingbirds. They are flashy and quick and on the move. Given the U.S.-Mexico border. date. One summer they caught two hummingbirds that were Hummingbird aggression is an open question. There is no their high food needs, the future could be threatening to them. MOLLY MOLLOY They live faster than we always together — they could tell this from the record of the doubt they fight for food and territory, but Susan wonders if Given their millions of years of riding out the storms of life, can imagine. The wingbeats bands. Hummingbirds are seen as antisocial, but still these human observers mistake some of the moves for aggression their track record puts our own in the shade. can go up to 200 beats per second, but most species range from two seem to live as a team. And some of the visitors here keep when it is simply the darting about of a fellow creature that There is always a temptation to say too much about hum- around 10 to 80. They are a blur to our eyes. We have some coming back for more. One broad-billed has been captured seems to roar through life. We are stunned by their energy. mingbirds because they hover within our reach and meet our numbers — they can fly from around 17 miles an hour on the for eight years. Hummingbirds were once thought to live fast, After reveille, a hummingbird feeds and then wanders 5 to gaze. level to power dives of 45. But in the hummingbird world, short lives. But banding has found one bird that was 11. 8 kilometers in the morning checking out various flowers. They’ve weathered tens of millions of years and they are still scientists lean toward a different measurement — how many Eleven species have been captured and banded on Harshaw Their migrations are so vast that humans persist in thinking in our face. body lengths they can move in a second. One study found 385 Creek, but there is no telling what is in store in the future. they hitch rides on the backs of geese — and no, they do not. I don’t think we know what is going on in their minds or body lengths per second. To put this in some kind of human On the one hand, the creek is drying out — the students from We are all seduced by hummingbirds, by the flash of color, their worlds. perspective, the space shuttle hit 207 body lengths per second South America are part of a restoration project among other the sudden iridescence, the rapid movement, the hovering, and Here on Harshaw Creek and other similar spots, we just and the peregrine falcon, generally seen as the avian rocket, things — and the temperatures are rising. For a bird with high the fact that something so small will fly right up to our face. might begin to learn. maxes out at 200 body lengths per second. During their court- energy needs — much like modern America — such changes In a world where so much of the wild flees at our approach, Protect the joy.

48 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 49 Francisco Zamora-Arroyo is working to restore a section of the Colorado River that’s been mostly dry for decades. Zamora-Arroyo examines the new trees, near a wastewater-treatment plant, allowing treated effluent to pausing occasionally to point a telephoto lens be returned to the river. It partners with state and federal agen- at the birds that have flocked to the site. As cies to promote ecotourism in the delta and create opportunities he prepares to climb out of the meander, he for people to get involved. And in 2012, it collaborated with the stops to carefully replace a willow seedling he U.S. and Mexican governments, along with environmental orga- inadvertently uprooted. The seedling is one nizations, to forge Minute 319, an international five-year agree- of thousands, but the act of righting it dem- ment that guides the river’s management. onstrates a commitment to the river that he The ultimate goal, Zamora-Arroyo says, is to secure 52,000 hopes to engender in others. acre-feet of water for the delta each year. That “base flow” “One of the reasons the delta is in this con- amount of water would keep the delta’s groundwater table near dition is that people got disconnected from the surface and allow plants to grow. In addition, Minute 319 led the river,” Zamora-Arroyo says. “They don’t to the 2014 “pulse flow,” in which the U.S. and Mexico released know what’s happening to the river. The 105,000 acre-feet of water into the delta from Morelos Dam near younger generations don’t even know there Yuma. A pulse flow is designed to mimic the spring runoff nor- was a river. To them, ‘Colorado River’ has mally seen on an undammed river. And the pulse flow is what become just a name.” caused those willows in the meander to grow.

amora-Arroyo, 47, grew up in Mexico bout twice a month, Zamora-Arroyo commutes from Tuc- Z City. Frequent hiking, camping and A son to the Laguna Grande site and the Sonoran Institute’s fishing trips, led by his father, spawned a love Mexicali office. Within a few minutes of his arrival, it’s easy to and appreciation of the outdoors. And seeing see why frequent visits are necessary: There always are decisions Jacques Cousteau’s weekly TV specials helped to make and information to gather. spur him to pursue a career as a marine biol- Workers scoop mud from irrigation trenches and chop down ogist. As he was completing his bachelor’s invasive salt cedars while Zamora-Arroyo and his staff discuss degree in oceanography at the Autonomous plans. The conversation, in Spanish but peppered with English University of Baja California in Mexicali, phrases like “overhead costs,” centers on building a small reser- Zamora-Arroyo developed an interest in “pro- voir to irrigate some of the trees. “September is a difficult month tecting nature, as opposed to just learning for irrigation,” he says. “The area is so big now that we need about it.” more certainty about water.” He geared his pursuits toward gaining a The pulse flow’s effects are still being studied, but in the well-rounded perspective of environmen- flow’s final week, Colorado River water reached the Gulf of Cal- tal issues. He earned a master’s degree in ifornia for the first time since the late 1990s. During the event, marine resource management and a Ph.D. in people in the delta saw the once-mighty Colorado flow. Some resource geography from Oregon State Uni- of them were seeing it for the first time. Zamora-Arroyo vis- versity. Now, he says, “I know enough of dif- ited with his 10-year-old son, hoping, as he did with his now-21- ferent fields to have an integrated view of the year-old daughter, to impart the same connection to nature that Delta Force systems, the needs and the solutions.” Zamora-Arroyo’s father instilled. “It worked for me,” he says. Zamora-Arroyo started working in the “Hopefully, it will work for him.” For millions of years, water BOUT 45 MILES SOUTHWEST OF YUMA, near the border of the Mex- river delta in 1998, shortly after the Sonoran Institute began Zamora-Arroyo’s connection to the Colorado came in 1998, from the Colorado River ican states of Sonora and Baja California, is the Laguna Grande Res- exploring restoration opportunities there. Out of those explora- when above-average runoff allowed the release of water into toration Area. Here, on a hot, humid mid-September afternoon, tions came the CRDLP, and in 2002, Zamora-Arroyo was hired as the delta from upstream dams. He and two friends decided to flowed all the way to the Gulf Francisco Zamora-Arroyo climbs down into a meander of the once-mighty Colo- the program’s first full-time staff member. traverse a stretch of the newly flowing river, much like a jour- of California. But not anymore. rado River. Today, the program has about two dozen employees. Its main ney Aldo Leopold described in A Sand County Almanac. Zamora- The last 90 miles are dry, Water pours into the meander from a large irrigation pipe. Wheat chaff burns purpose is to restore critical habitats in the delta for the benefit Arroyo and his friends, though, made the trip in “a cheap in the distance. Roadrunners skitter by, and a hawk circles overhead. Along the of people and wildlife. That includes the Cocopah Tribe, whose inflatable boat with a motor that didn’t really work,” and they and that’s where Francisco channel’s banks, willows and cottonwoods that once had nearly disappeared members have fished in the Colorado for centuries, and the Yuma got lost in the weeds and had to spend a night on the river. Zamora-Arroyo is pouring from the area have regrown naturally — a key component of the goal that keeps clapper rail, one of the endangered birds that make their homes Zamora-Arroyo counts the episode among his “near-death Zamora-Arroyo coming back to this oasis. along the river. experiences,” but he cherishes it. He got to see the river flowing his energy. As director of the For millions of years, water from the Colorado finished its 1,450-mile journey But “restore,” Zamora-Arroyo notes, is a loaded term. The pro- and hear the birds that flocked to it, just as they had for millions Colorado River Delta Legacy at the Gulf of California, but human intervention has changed that. All the riv- gram’s goal is not to return the delta to the way it was before of years. “That picture is always in my mind,” he says. And as the Program, he’s fighting hard er’s water has been allocated for irrigation and other uses, leaving the Colorado humans dammed the river. “We want to create a functional sys- Laguna Grande site has begun to match that picture, it’s renewed dry for its final 90 miles. The change has affected people, wildlife and vegetation tem — a network of restoration sites” that is sustainable year- Zamora-Arroyo’s commitment to his work. to bring the river back. in the river’s delta. More than 90 percent of wetlands there have disappeared round, he says. The CRDLP has restored 350 acres so far and “It feels good to say, ‘Look what we have done,’ ” he says. “It BY NOAH AUSTIN because of a lack of river flow. plans to add another 400 acres by 2017. feels good to deliver.” PHOTOGRAPH BY As director of the Colorado River Delta Legacy Program (CRDLP) at the Tuc- Through a trust, the program buys and leases Colorado River BILL HATCHER son-based Sonoran Institute, Zamora-Arroyo is working to bring the river back water rights and dedicates that water to the river. In 2009, it To learn more about the Sonoran Institute and the Colorado River Delta Legacy to a place that hasn’t seen it in a long time. worked with the water authority in Mexicali to create a wetland Program, call 520-290-0828 or visit www.sonoraninstitute.org.

50 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 51 scenic drive

Craggy peaks, sweeping vistas, spectacular slowly is a must, given that you’ll be sunsets and saguaros are just some of what you’ll sharing the road with the occasional Saguaro National see on this scenic drive, which loops through 8 miles cyclist or hiker. Nearly a mile in, you’ll Park East of rugged desert at an elevation of 3,000 feet. find the first of four overlooks featur- BY NIKKI BUCHANAN | PHOTOGRAPHS BY RANDY PRENTICE ing information posts with interesting and little-known desert lore, as well as views sure to elicit a “wow” or two. or tourists and locals alike, the word ful preserve are quickly immersed in our adorn the saguaros from April to June, A mile beyond Cactus Forest Over- “forest” usually conjures trees, not state’s most iconic assets: craggy peaks, succeeded in June and July by the ripe, red look (the second pullout and one of the F a stand of saguaro cactuses covered sweeping vistas, spectacular sunsets and fruit that coyotes and javelinas favor. If most impressive), you’ll find the inter- in spines. But candelabra-shaped saguaros, cactuses, cactuses, cactuses. you visit deep into summer, you might see pretive Desert Ecology Trail, a paved, found exclusively in our Sonoran Desert, A smart first step is stopping at the a small herd of adult javelinas and their wheelchair-accessible path that spurs are classified as arborescent (tree-like), visitors center for maps, literature and a babies sprawled out and snoozing in the even the most sedentary to leave the so the “forest” label is hardly a stretch. short video on the flora and fauna of the dirt. Summer temperatures make these car and take an easy 0.3-mile stroll. The Nomenclature aside, Tucson’s cactus for- park, an area thick with desert scrub such people-shy peccaries (which aren’t actu- more adventurous can stop, park and est — tucked within Saguaro National as creosotes, mesquites and paloverdes. ally related to pigs) bold enough to seek take the Cactus Forest Trail south for Park East and nestled up against the This arid place is also home to 25 species out the ample shade of the visitors center. 2.5 miles to where it crosses the park Rincon Mountains — is as starkly beauti- of cactuses and 230 species of vertebrate Back in the car, you’ll veer to the left, road again. The seriously committed ful as any primeval forest you’ve ever seen desert critters, ranging from ground following a narrow, undulating road might venture into the wilds of the or imagined. squirrels and Gila woodpeckers to mule so full of twists and turns that driving Rincons with a tent, a backpack and Thanks to Cactus Forest Drive, a deer and bobcats. park permission to camp overnight. paved, one-way road that loops through In late winter and early spring, you’re BELOW: Slabs of metamorphic gneiss overlook the For the rest of us, there are another namesake cactuses of Saguaro National Park East. 8 miles of rugged desert at an elevation of likely to find birds nesting and wildflow- OPPOSITE PAGE: Sunset silhouettes a mature 4.5 miles of gorgeous desert driving, roughly 3,000 feet, visitors to this peace- ers blooming. Creamy-white blossoms saguaro at the park. plus a picnic area near the end of the loop — because who doesn’t work up an appetite out in the forest?

SCENIC DRIVES of Arizona’s Best Back ADDITIONAL READING: 40 Roads For more scenic drives, order a copy of our newest book, Scenic Drives, which features 40 of the state’s most beautiful back roads. To order a copy, visit www.shop Edited by Robert Stieve arizonahighways.com/books. and Kelly Vaughn Kramer

Tanque Verde tour guide

Ta nque Verde Creek Note: Mileages are approximate. Speedway Blvd. LENGTH: 8-mile loop DIRECTIONS: From downtown Tucson, go east on To Downtown SAGUARO Tucson Broadway Boulevard for 8.4 miles to Old Spanish Trail. NATIONAL PARK Broadway Blvd. Turn right onto Old Spanish Trail and continue 5.8 miles to Cactus Forest Drive, which leads into Saguaro National Old Spanish Trail Mica View S N Park East. Turn left onto Cactus Forest Drive and Picnic Area I Kolb Rd. Kolb 22nd St. A continue 0.2 miles to a fork. Bear left at the fork to stay T N on Cactus Forest Drive, then continue 8 miles around the U O loop and back to the starting point. M VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None

Freeman Rd. Freeman

N SPECIAL CONSIDERATION: The park’s entry fee is $10 for O C N passenger vehicles and $5 for pedestrians and bicyclists. Visitors I Center R The park is open to vehicles from 7 a.m. to sunset, and the start here visitors center is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Cactus Forest P Drive WARNING: Back-road travel can be hazardous, so be an Harrison Rd. Harrison Houghton Rd. Houghton ta Javelina aware of weather and road conditions. Carry plenty of n o Picnic Area water. Don’t travel alone, and let someone know where W a you are going and when you plan to return. s h Old Spanish Trail INFORMATION: Saguaro National Park East, 520-733-5153 or www.nps.gov/sagu Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov or dial 511 to get infor­ma­tion on road closures, construc­tion, To I-10 KEVIN KIBSEY delays, weather and more.

52 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 53 hike of the month

on the Hell’s Hole Trail, which crosses If your New Year’s resolution was to push yourself to the extreme in 2015, this a muddy mesa that leads to the brutal Hell’s Hole switchbacks that will take you into the trail is a good place to start. It’s one of the state’s most challenging trails, but trail’s namesake. Not only are the switch- Trail the payoff is out of this world. BY ROBERT STIEVE | PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEFF SNYDER backs steep, and more challenging on the way out, but they’re also overgrown with prickly brush, making it difficult to find f you need some time alone, then Hell’s From the trailhead, which is located to call ahead and check on conditions. your way. You don’t have to be Magellan Hole is where you want to be. Although under the tall pines of the Reynolds Creek About 15 minutes in, you’ll come to an to navigate the mess, but you do have to I it sounds ironic that any part of hell is Campground, the route begins a gradual impressive alligator juniper, followed by pay attention. Sometimes when you think a better option than wherever it is you uphill climb through the trees. Because an equally impressive manzanita. Beyond you’re supposed to go right, you need to might be coming from, in this case, it is. If the high end of the trail sits about a mile them, the trail begins a downhill stretch go left. And vice versa. The bushwhacking ever there was a place that’s off the grid, above sea level, snow is possible this time through a thick forest of ponderosa pines is worth it, though. Hell’s Hole is it. of year. As with any trail, it’s always best and Douglas firs. Unlike some of the pine By the time you get to the end of the forests in other parts of the state, includ- trail, after almost three hours of hiking, ing those around the South Rim of the you’ll be greeted once again by Workman Grand Canyon, the ground cover here is Creek. This time, though, it’s in a deep especially thick. And especially beauti- canyon and the waterway is flooded with ful. Also, at this point, the trail is well large boulders, many of which are as big marked and easy to follow. By the end of as Barcaloungers. There’s no guarantee the hike, things will be different. you won’t run into other people at the Not to be outdone by the impressive bottom, but it’s unlikely. And if you do, juniper and manzanita, one of the largest they’ll likely be like-minded — it takes ponderosas you’ll ever see grabs your a special hiker to hike into a place called attention at the 30-minute mark. There are Hell’s Hole. more pines as you move along, but none quite like this. Eventually, the evergreens will give way to scrub oaks and piñons, ADDITIONAL READING: and the views will open up and give you a For more hikes, pick up a copy good sense of just how rugged the Salome of Arizona Highways Hiking Guide, which features 52 of the Wilderness is. As you make your way state’s best trails — one for each north, you’ll start hearing the sounds of weekend of the year, sorted by seasons. To order a copy, visit Workman Creek. You won’t see it, not yet, www.shoparizonahighways. but you will hear it. Like Salome Creek, com/books. which runs east-west through the entire wilderness area, Workman Creek is a perennial stream that supports a decent Hell’s Hole trail guide Reynolds Creek k population of brown trout and rainbow e Campground re LENGTH: 12 miles round-trip C trailhead trout. The fish, in turn, serve as main e DIFFICULTY: Strenuous m entrées for some of the area’s wildlife, lo ELEVATION: 4,389 to 5,226 feet a S TRAILHEAD GPS: N 33˚52.262', W 110˚58.511' which includes bobcats, badgers, ringtails SALOME 288 and coyotes. WILDERNESS DIRECTIONS: From Claypool, go north on State Route 88 188 for approximately 15 miles to its junction with State r After an hour, you’ll arrive at the e Route 288. Bear right onto SR 288 and continue 27 miles Theodore iv R water. The riparian nature of Workman Roosevelt Lake lt to the trailhead at Reynolds Creek Campground. Sa Creek makes it a great place to gear up VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None DOGS ALLOWED: Yes (on a leash) for the rest of the hike and the descent Apache Lake 88 HORSES ALLOWED: Yes into Hell’s Hole. But first, you’ll officially Canyon Lake USGS MAPS: Armer Mountain, Copper Mountain, cross into the Salome Wilderness and McFadden Peak begin a lengthy uphill climb. Along the Saguaro INFORMATION: Pleasant Valley Ranger District, Lake 88 way you’ll pass an intersection with the 928-462-4300 or www.fs.usda.gov/tonto Boyer Trail, the only other established TONTO 88 trail in the wilderness. Veer right to stay NATIONAL FOREST LEAVE-NO-TRACE PRINCIPLES: 60 • Plan ahead and be out all of your trash. Apache Claypool prepared. • Leave what you find. Junction LEFT: Sunset’s reflected glow colors the confines of a Miami • Travel and camp on • Respect wildlife. creek along the Hell's Hole Trail. Globe durable surfaces. • Minimize campfire OPPOSITE PAGE: The landscape of the Salome 60 60 • Dispose of waste impact. To Phoenix Wilderness is rugged and rocky. KEVIN KIBSEY properly and pack • Be considerate of others.

54 JANUARY 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 55 where is this? October 2014 Answer & Winner La Posada, Winslow. Congratulations to our winner, Dale Ayers of Brandon, The Best Ever. Period. Mississippi. Ansel Adams, Edward Curtis, Barry Goldwater, Josef Muench, Jack Dykinga … for almost 90 years, Arizona Highways has been featuring the best work of the best photographers in the world. In our newest coffee-table book, we present the best of the best. NICK BEREZENKO

November 2014 Answer & Winner DeGrazia Gallery in the Sun, Tucson. Congratulations to our winner, Ray Emond of Tempe, Arizona. SAVE $12.99 RANDY PRENTICE

Win a collection of our most popular books! To enter, correctly iden- tify the location pictured at left and email your answer to editor@ arizonahighways.com — 12" x 9" Hardcover. Item #ABPH3. Was $39.99 now $27.00. Use code P5A5GB to take advantage of this offer. type “Where Is This?” in Offer expires 1/31/15 the subject line. Entries can also be sent to 2039 W. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009 (write “Where Is This?” on the envelope). Please include your name, address and phone number. One winner will be chosen in a random drawing of qualified entries. Entries must be postmarked by January

KERRICK JAMES KERRICK 15, 2015. Only the winner will be notified. The correct answer will be Hole in the Wall posted in our March 2015 issue and online at www.arizonahighways. This moonrise was photographed at an Arizona ghost town once known for lead- and com beginning Febru- zinc-mining. Today, the site is one of the best-preserved ghost towns in the state, with more ary 15. than two dozen buildings still standing. It’s also known for its seasonal bat population. Order online at www.shoparizonahighways.com or by calling 800-543-5432.

56 JANUARY 2015

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