Business cards, flyers, invitations and more! Contact printshop.stripes.com 042-552-2510 (extension77315) 227-7315 VOLUME 13 NO. 33 AUGUST 8 − AUGUST 14, 2019 SUBMIT STORIES TO: @STRIPES.COM STRIPESOKINAWA.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC FREE INSIDE INFO KATSUREN CHANGES TO MILITARY MAIL MAY BE COMING PAGES 2-3 CASTLE Ruins hold special place in island’s history

MARINES GET READY FOR OKINAWA, FUJI PAGE 3

ENJOY THE SIMPLICITY OF INARIZUSHI PAGE 5

PAGES 4 -5

IT’S EISA TIME! PAGE 8 gs rin a Kimodameshi b naw l to Oki hil shopping malls as seasonal attractions. Hor- BY TAKAHIRO TAKIGUCHI,c ror movies and reports of haunted locations STRIPES OKINAWA are televised, while popular kimodameshi uch like Halloween in October in (literally, to test your courage through scared the West, mid-summer is a sea- route) games are enjoyed in schools and local Mson to intersect with the dead in communities throughout summertime. , as deceased ancestors are believed to Just like horror films and scary stories give visit and spend few days with us during tradi- you goosebumps, kimodameshi and haunted Special 8-page tional Obon period (August 13-15). houses make the Japanese cool with fear and Also similar to the U.S., temporary haunt- File photos pullout inside! ed houses are built in amusement parks or SEE KIMODAMESHI ON PAGE 6 2 STRIPES OKINAWA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 8 − AUGUST 14, 2019 Military mail may be affected by US treaty withdrawal

BY WYATT OLSON, to be counting on a meeting STARS AND STRIPES scheduled for September dur- Max D. Lederer Jr. Published: July 28, 2019 Publisher ing which treaty members will Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic discuss changes to “terminal ervicemembers stationed “The Trump Commander dues,” which are the rates each overseas probably don’t Administration Joshua M Lashbrook member nation pays for deliv- Chief of Staff think much about how S is saying that we ery of mail within other coun- Michael Davidson their mail to and from the United are delivering Revenue Director States is delivered through the tries. “This will provide a new Chris Verigan Chinese packages in opportunity for UPU members Engagement Director immense system of Army, Air Force and Navy post offices. particular — but all to collaborate and develop so- Marie Woods lutions to end the distortionary Publishing and Media Design Director In 2018, the Defense Depart- foreign e-commerce Chris Carlson ment’s Military Postal Service effects associated with exces- Publishing and Media Design Manager packages, really — for sively low rates for certain for- Agency oversaw the delivery of somewhere between Eric Lee 88,618 tons of packages and let- eign origin mail, as compared Advertising and Circulation Manager a third to half of to domestic postage rates,” the Kentaro Shimura ters sent or received by over- Production Manager seas soldiers, sailors, Marines, what we’re charging Postal Service said in a state- Rie Miyoshi airmen and federal employees Americans for the ment to Stars and Stripes. Engagement Manager at about 1.2 million post office same service. That’s But the Postal Service is also Scott Wheeler boxes, unit mail rooms, buildings undertaking “parallel efforts” Okinawa Area Manager crazy.” in the event the U.S. withdraws Denisse Rauda and other delivery points. Publishing and Media Design Editor That was roughly equivalent - James Campbell Jr., from the treaty, including “ad- Publishing and Media Design Writers to mailing 1,310 Abrams tanks. Washington, D.C.-based attorney dressing and prioritizing mili- ChiHon Kim tary mailing issues,” the state- Shoji Kudaka The average military mail Takahiro Takiguchi customer has also likely given ment said. Layout Designers little thought to an arcane inter- The Postal Service declined Ayako Kamio national treaty called the Univer- Military working dog Roger sniffs mail for contraband at Joint Military Mail to elaborate at all on what those Yukiyo Oda Yuko Okazaki sal Postal Union — but they’re Terminal, Camp Arifjan, Kuwait, Dec. 1, 2017. Photo by Thomas Crough, U.S. Army military mailing issues might Kayoko Shimoda apt to hear a lot more about it by be. Multimedia Consultants October. “The big fight is over delivery Pete Graeve, chief of plans Max Genao Doug Johnson October deadline The Trump Administration charges,” said James Campbell and policy for the Military Post- Brian Jones Jason Lee The U.S. is slated to drop out Hans Simpson Chae Pang Yi announced last year that the Jr., a Washington, D.C.-based at- al Service Agency, was optimis- Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman of the postal union treaty in Oc- U.S. would withdraw from the torney who specializes in regu- tic about the potential impact Graphic Designers tober unless changes are made 144-year-old treaty, primar- lations concerning international leaving the postal union will Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji by the Bern, Switzerland-based ily over growing complaints by shipping. “The Trump Admin- have on the APO — or Army Sales Support body that gov- Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa some U.S.-based businesses that istration is saying that we are Post Office, also Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro erns the system. used by the Air Yoichi Okazaki Yusuke Sato packages sent to the States from delivering Chinese packages in EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: Chae Yon Son Saori Tamanaha other countries — primarily particular — but all foreign e- Because the Force — and the China — have much lower postal commerce packages, really — treaty has been Navy’s Fleet Post rates. for somewhere between a third in effect so long Office, or FPO. For feedback and inquiries, In some cases, U.S. businesses to half of what we’re charging and includes al- “The bottom contact [email protected] spend more to mail a package Americans for the same service. most all the world’s nations, the line is that we have host na- To place an ad, call DSN 645-7419 domestically than a China-based That’s crazy. The domestic mer- ripple effects of withdrawal are tion agreements/status of stripesokinawa.com/contact firm would pay to ship to Amer- chants are complaining about unpredictable. forces agreements/diplo- ica. that.” The U.S. Postal Service seems matic notes that allow the AUGUST 8 − AUGUST 14, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES OKINAWA 3

[Military Postal Service] But the Trump Administra- only hope for the best.” to operate in host nations, tion is already at odds with Eu- One likely and immediate and we expect host na- ropean allies over his unilateral outcome of U.S. withdrawal tions will not unilaterally abro- withdrawal from a 2015 nuclear from the postal union would be gate those agreements,” Graeve deal with Iran in which the na- increased customs security for wrote in a response to questions tions traded sanctions relief for both military and civil mail, said by Stars and Stripes. Iran’s delay in enriching ura- Campbell, who sits on the State “The UPU issue pertains to nium. Department’s Advisory Com- international civil mail postage Trump has also frequently mittee on International Postal remuneration, not military mail criticized fellow NATO-state and Delivery Services. which is considered domestic members for contributing too “The reality is that postal and does not have international little for operating expenses. packages have become the con- postage,” Graeve said. Consequently, some countries duit-of-choice for drug smug- “[The Defense Department] may not have the appetite to ne- glers, intellectual property vio- is developing contingency plans gotiate a postal agreement with lations and all kinds of stuff,” he in the event a host nation does the United States. said. “The reality is that Cus- abrogate an agreement to mini- John Couch, a co-founder of toms has no idea what’s in the mize any potential disruptions ShipitAPO, which helps over- mail stream. and continue providing support seas servicemembers receive “If the U.S. leaves the UPU in to our service members and packages from retailers that October, my guess for APO/FPO their families.” will not send to APO and FPO mail is that there’s going to be addresses, has tried unsuccess- increased customs scrutiny, at Reserve Marines prepare Customs scrutiny fully for months to get clear an- least in the big countries. That’s Among the primary host na- swers from government officials going to entail more costs.” for deployment to tions are Germany, Italy, Portu- about what the military-mail That increased scrutiny and gal, United Kingdom, Belgium, landscape will look like if the cost will come regardless of the Netherlands, Romania, Bulgar- U.S. leaves the postal union. treaty status, though, he said. Okinawa, Fuji ia, Greece, Turkey, Kuwait, Aus- “Even if new postal treaties Last year Congress passed a law tralia, Japan and South Korea. can be re-established with each that beginning in 2021 all post- STORY AND PHOTO BY Chief Warrant Officer 2 Sean P. If these host nations were APO-FPO host nation, this will al packages must undergo the SGT. ANDY MARTINEZ, Doel, the information manage- MARINE FORCES RESERVE only dealing with U.S. with- not happen overnight,” Couch same strict customs procedures ment officer for 1/25. “One is drawal from the Universal said. “And there’s no guarantee required for packages shipped n preparation for an upcom- with the Japanese Self-Defense Postal Union treaty, it seems that the new agreements will via Federal Express and the ing deployment to Okinawa Forces supporting exercise For- less likely they would abrogate be as favorable regarding al- like, he said. and Camp Fuji, Reserve est Light. We also have iterations agreements governing military lowable items, package sizes, [email protected] I U.S. Marines with 1st Battalion, of Fuji Viper and other exercises mail. weights and quantities. We can Twitter: @WyattWOlson 25th Marine Regiment, 4th Ma- that will be taking place on Camp rine Division, joined forces with Fuji. Our plan is to first go to Oki- their active duty counterparts to nawa, Japan then head over to support Integrated Training Ex- Fuji, where we will spend a lot of ercise 5-19 at Twentynine Palms, our time.” Calif. The Marines will be train- The on-going exercise wraps ing at various ranges to better up on Aug. 22 and will serve as prepare them for the high op- a workup to support the Indo- erational tempo the Indo-Pacific Pacific Command for future ex- Marines deal with on a daily ercises across the region. basis. This will be the first time “We have a couple different the 1/25 will be activated and de- exercises we will support,” said ployed to the region. 4 STRIPES OKINAWA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 8 − AUGUST 14, 2019 KATSUREN CASTLE Ruins great for exploring Okinawa history

A southward view from Kuruwa No. 1.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY SHOJI KUDAKA, no Kurawa (No. 2) used to have facilities for City STRIPES OKINAWA political functions. Ichino Kuruwa (No. 1) is the highest at 328 feet. You can access these here are many castles to visit and ex- the sections via stone-paved steps. plore on Okinawa. And only a short Kuruwa No. 1 If the four Kuruwas and other relevant 30-minute drive away from Camp T parts are counted, the castle’s total dimension Foster’s Legion Gate, you’ll find Katsuren amounts to 2.94 acres. Like other castle ru- Castle, on the peninsula by the same name. ins in Okinawa, its walls draw curving lines, Standing on a hill, the castle that dates much different from rectilinear profiles of back to the 13th century, commands a fine many castles on Japan’s mainland. view of Nakagusuku and Kin Bays plus re- According to the castle’s website, this is mote islands to the east. a location where locals lived as early as the The castle is composed of four flatlands late prehistoric age. A shell heap discovered called Kuruwa. Yon no Kuruwa (Kuruwa No. nearby corroborates the history. Although 4) is the biggest and located at the lowest point the castle has changed hands several times, on the grounds where there are four wells. San it is Amawari, the final lord to oversee it, that no Kuruwa (No. 3), one floor above, is thought the castle is remembered for now. An eastward view from stairs to Kuruwa No. 1. to have been used for ceremonies, whereas Ni Before and during Amawari’s tenure in

Adjacent to the rest area, there is also an op- Roadside stop offers food and fun portunity to try your hand at a number of water s you travel on Kaichu Doro, a nearly activities like flyboard, banana boat rides, tubing 3-mile long causeway connecting Okina- or parasailing. Stop by the reception area near the A wa’s main island to Henza and two other burger restaurant to inquire. small islands, you’ll find an unusual ship-shaped Souvenirs, burgers, a great view and water building off the side of the road. sport options, Umino Eki Ayahashi-kan is the kind Umino Eki Ayahashi-kan is the name of this de- of place you and your family will definitely want to lightful rest area worth a stop on your way to ex- stop for a break on your next adventure. ploring the remote islands Kaichu Doro will lead you to. - Shoji Kudaka, Stripes Okinawa The rest area is a good place for some souvenir shopping, boasts a beautiful view of Kin Bay and offers many choices for hungry travelers. Umino Est Burger Eki Ayahashi-kan has a restaurant and food stalls HOURS: 11 a.m. – 8 p.m. GPS COORDINATES: N 26.332723, E 127.928637 with a variety of options including pizza, curry Various water activities are available near the roadside station WEBSITE: https://estburger.shopinfo.jp/ rice, soba noodles, tempura and more. Est Burger in the food stall area offers hefty also known as the Tida “Mexican” Burger, and the burgers at good prices. I tried the Est Special Teriyaki Burger. Fees for water activities Burger (900 yen), the joint’s most popular menu Inside a shipping container, Est Burger’s décor FLYBOARD: 5,500 to 6,500 yen for adults, 4,500 yen item. Aside from the standard lettuce and tomato has Americana vibes with posters of popular U.S. for minors BANANA BOAT: 1,000- 1,500 yen for adults; 500 yen toppings, this thick beef burger also includes a brands like Coca-Cola, McDonald’s and Camp- for minors slice of bacon and tartar and sweet & spicy sauces bell’s Soup. TUBING: 1,500 yen for adults; 500 yen for minors for an interesting contrast. I recommend enjoying your burger on the PARASAILING: 5,500 yen or more per person Est Special Burger For a little spice, try the Tida Kankan Burger, benches nearby while taking in the great bay view. AUGUST 8 − AUGUST 14, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES OKINAWA 5 KATSUREN CASTLE Ruins great for exploring Okinawa history

Katsuren Castle Map

no Kurawa (No. 2) used to have facilities for Roman and Ottoman coins were excavated execute their vengeance on Amawari. In political functions. Ichino Kuruwa (No. 1) is What to know from the castle. ’s Tug of War, two figures dressed as the highest at 328 feet. You can access these GPS COORDINATES: N 26.330573, The prosperity set up Lord Amawari to Amawari and Gosamaru march on a huge the sections via stone-paved steps. E 127.878968 be one of the most powerful figures in the rope to add a historical angle to the competi- If the four Kuruwas and other relevant OPEN: 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. Ryukyu Kingdom (1429 – 1879), along with tion. In Uruma City, especially in Katsuren parts are counted, the castle’s total dimension The castle is accessible 24 hours, but the Gosamaru, the lord of Nakagusuku Castle. In area, Amawari is revered as a local hero even amounts to 2.94 acres. Like other castle ru- parking space, information counter, and 1458, Amawari spearheaded a punitive force today. ins in Okinawa, its walls draw curving lines, bathrooms are normally closed at 6 p.m. of the kingdom and defeated and killed Gosa- Registered by UNESCO as world heritage ADMISSION: Free. much different from rectilinear profiles of maru, who was thought to be plotting a re- in 2000, the Katsuren Castle ruins garner vis- Free parking space available. many castles on Japan’s mainland. WEBSITE: https://www.katsuren-jo.jp/ volt. But later on, the kingdom defeated and its from many tourists and history buffs. But, According to the castle’s website, this is *The castle ruins will be lit up at night killed Amawari on the same suspicion. for the people of Okinawa, it’s the castle’s a location where locals lived as early as the through Aug. 25, so parking will be available Considered one of biggest events in the story and final lord which are an enduring late prehistoric age. A shell heap discovered at night during this time. kingdom’s history, the feud between the two part of the island’s culture. nearby corroborates the history. Although became a big motif for local culture. The next few weeks will also be a great the castle has changed hands several times, the 15th century, the castle prospered tre- Take Nidou Tekiuchi, which translates to time to visit the castle as it will be temporar- it is Amawari, the final lord to oversee it, that mendously through trading with foreign “revenge by two children”, a famous act for ily lit up in the evenings, making it a great the castle is remembered for now. countries. Foreign items such as chinaware, Okinawa’s classical stage play called “Ku- spot to check out at sunset. Before and during Amawari’s tenure in ceramics from Southeast Asia, and even miodori.” In this act, Gosamaru’s two sons [email protected]

Adjacent to the rest area, there is also an op- The combination of inarizushi and fried chick- portunity to try your hand at a number of water Try Okinawan inarizushi en is a very popular platter for family get-togeth- activities like flyboard, banana boat rides, tubing longside many of the rice balls and ers such as Shiimi, a local tradition to welcome or parasailing. Stop by the reception area near the at convenience stores, you’ll find inari- back and see off the spirits of deceased family burger restaurant to inquire. A zushi. This is a common snack-food that members. And it is also a great option for a picnic Souvenirs, burgers, a great view and water is simple to prepare – vinegar-seasoned rice or quick lunch. sport options, Umino Eki Ayahashi-kan is the kind wrapped in deep-fried tofu. As you travel around Japan, don’t forget to of place you and your family will definitely want to Inarizushi dates back to the Edo Period (1603- try different variations of this popular snack. stop for a break on your next adventure. 1867) and was named after the god “Inari,” who Maruichi Shokuhin has two locations – one near was said to have been taken care of by foxes who White Beach and the other near Katsuren Castle – - Shoji Kudaka, Stripes Okinawa enjoyed deep-fried tofu. perfect for picking up lunch for the whole family. Like many other foods, regions across Japan have their own variations on inarizushi, but in - Shoji Kudaka, Stripes Okinawa Est Burger general, it’s known for having a slightly sweet and HOURS: 11 a.m. – 8 p.m. tangy taste. In the Kanto Plain, inarizushi has a GPS COORDINATES: N 26.332723, E 127.928637 strong taste and a squared shape. Kansai serves WEBSITE: https://estburger.shopinfo.jp/ Maruichi Shokuhin up inarizushi in a lighter-tasting triangle. Oki- (Shioya Branch, near Katsuren Castle) nawa’s version is triangle-shaped and made of a GPS COORDINATES: N 26.345014, E 127.861157 Fees for water activities lighter-colored tofu, with a much lighter taste. FLYBOARD: 5,500 to 6,500 yen for adults, 4,500 yen Maruichi Shokuhin in Uruma City is a great Inarizushi Maruichi Shokuhin Honten for minors place to try the Okinawa version. The store is (near White Beach) BANANA BOAT: 1,000- 1,500 yen for adults; 500 yen GPS COORDINATES: N 26.308969, E 127.912152 for minors known for its inarizushi, garlic-flavored fried fried chicken for 280 yen (about $2.59) or add an- chicken and the long lines of people eager to buy a other piece of chicken for 100 yen more. Another HOURS: 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. TUBING: 1,500 yen for adults; 500 yen for minors *Closed on Mondays PARASAILING: 5,500 yen or more per person combination of the two. option is five pieces of inarizushi only for 450 yen *Only the Shioya branch has a free parking. Try a set of two inarizushi and one piece of or a 10-piece for 900 yen. 6 STRIPES OKINAWA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 8 − AUGUST 14, 2019

r KI me MODAMESHI: sum Get ready for a spooky to move in his terror at haunted lo- order to maximize fear, the location cation while a gentle graceful girl is scouted and scary objects, such as shows her courage to take him out CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 skulls and horror-props, are planted on the course. Some bust into cry- The Kimodameshi Shinrei spot in advance. Sometimes, audio and ing and others leave their partner (Haunted place for the test of courage) terror - another reason they are con- visual effects are used to create an and run away from the course, and sidered summer attractions. On a hot unusual atmosphere. that makes some of great memories “Pierre the Clown,” is a doll left behind in summer evening, students will often A good storyteller, usually a of school days that cannot easily be a warehouse for many years. He has a spooky explore cemeteries or haunted loca- teacher, provides a horror story be- forgotten. face which turns even scarier when possessed tions and enjoy exchanging horror fore sending them out to the spooky The tradition of kimodameshi with his rage against humans. This year’s haunted house at Aeon Mall Oki- stories with friends path. To prove that they had walked goes back to the reign of Emperor nawa Rycom centers around a clown similar Kimodameshi is a must-play for through the designated course, chal- Hanayama, about 1000 years ago. An to the cult horror classic, “IT.” Although horror students away at summer camp. It lengers need to bring something official history book in the era “Oo- can be seen as a rite of passage for movie season may still be a couple months back from the haunted location or kagami” describes that the Emperor away, why not experience chills in the hot Oki- teenagers as they show their courage leave some sort of token (often a card sent three young aristocrats to an old nawan summer? in public, and is a great chance for or stones written with challenger’s house known as home of evils around - Shoji Kudaka, Stripes Okinawa them to cling to someone they might number or name) at the location, 2 a.m. to test their courage. Only one have a crush on. which can be recovered later. of them was brave enough to accom- In kimodameshi, challengers, usu- Teachers, volunteering parents plish his order, and he brought back LOCATION: AEON Hall of AEON Mall ally paired as boys and girls (some- or senior colleagues hide along the a chip from the haunted house to times alone or in a small group), path in ghost costumes, and jump show the emperor. The brave young Okinawa Rycom 3F (near Camp Foster) walk along a spooky path in dark for- out at challengers walking along the aristocrat, Fujiwara Michinaga, later DATE: July 20 through Sept. 1 ests, graveyards, shrines, temples, course. became prime minister and wielded HOURS: 10 a.m. – 9 p.m. (Last admission at abandoned buildings or any other During the event, students wit- his power over the nation. 8:30 p.m.) haunted and mysterious spaces. In ness a strong-looking boy unable [email protected] ADMISSION: 800 yen for adult and minors (Middle school students and above); 500 yen for kids (3 or older, below middle school age); Free for those under 3. Fees include tax. URL: https:// okinawarycom-aeonmall. com/news/event/2670

*The venue is near the food court on the 3rd floor of the AEON Mall Rycom

File photos

Stripes Okinawa is A Stars and Stripes Community Publication. This newspaper is authorized isolated locations where overseas DOD personnel are located. The appearance of advertising for publication by the Department of Defense for members of the military services overseas. in this publication, including inserts or supplements, does not constitute endorsement of However, the contents of Stripes Okinawa are unofficial, and are not to be considered as those products by the Department of Defense or Stars and Stripes. Products or services the official views of, or endorsed by, the U.S. government, including the Department of advertised in this publication shall be made available for purchase, use, or patronage Defense or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, Stripes Okinawa may be without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, marital status, physical distributed through official channels and use appropriated funds for distribution to remote and handicap, political affiliation, or any other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. AUGUST 8 − AUGUST 14, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES OKINAWA 7

Baseball analytics are becoming more widely accepted, and one of the stats at the forefront of that is Wins Above Replacement (WAR). According to Baseball Reference, the all-time leader in WAR is

Babe Ruth with 182.5. With 100, who is the active player with the most Wins Above Replacement? Albert Pujols Albert Stripes Sports Trivia

Answer Week of 8/5/19 - 8/11/19

The Weekly Crossword by Margie E. Burke ACROSS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

1 Place for a 14 15 16 massage 6 morsel 17 18 19 Highway exit 10 20 21 22 23 14 Teach one-on- one 24 25 26 15 "Unfaithful" star 27 28 29 30 31 DID YOU 16 Burn soother 17 Make amends 32 33 34 35 36 KNOW? (for) 37 38 39 40 18 Gambler's concern 41 42 43 44 n mid-summer, similar to the U.S., 19 Overabundance 20 Like summer 45 46 47 temporary haunted houses pop up in school classes, 48 49 50 51 52 amusement parks or shopping malls often Ias seasonal attractions. Horror movies Bone brace 53 54 55 56 57 58 22

and reports of haunted locations are 24 Hook, line and 59 60 61 62 televised, while popular kimodameshi _____ (literally, to test your courage through 26 Worse for wear 63 64 65 27 Informant a scary route) games are enjoyed in 66 67 68 30 Express a schools and local communities, as the thought Copyright 2019 by The Puzzle Syndicate goosebumps cool you down with fear 32 Track down and terror. 33 "Cheers" regular DOWN 28 Exploding star 44 One that got 34 Kind of race 1 Hollywood 29 Some Winter away 37 State with sighting Olympians 46 Pint-sized certainty 2 Adorable 31 Warm up, in the 48 Theater platform 38 No ____ or 3 Kind of bomb kitchen 49 Fibula's neighbor reason 4 Country group 33 WSJ alternative 51 Ludicrous show 40 Corduroy ridge with the #1 35 Sheltered, at sea 52 Biblical disaster 41 Cooking fuel song "Amazed" 36 School session 54 Inventory unit Kanji of 42 Italian import 5 Do a meteorolo- 39 Confusion 56 Nonsense 43 Furnace, for one gist's job, say 40 "The Wind in the 57 Follow orders the week 45 Ungraceful one 6 Dagger's Willows" critter 58 Holler Momo/Tou桃 (Peach) 47 Favor companion 42 Roll up, as a flag 61 Friend's opposite 48 Case opener? 7 Big dipper 50 Wear away 8 Here-now link Answers to Last Week’s Crossword: 53 Dot above the i 9 State of disorder S L O E A D O B E A C M E Language Lesson Priest's helper Type of sleeve 55 10 O O P S C A B A L L O A D 59 Anagram for 11 Repeat starting F R E T C R E D I T C A R D "beat" letters, as in T E N A C I T Y C O O L L Y 60 70's hairdo "good as gold" S T U D S M I T H Wait a minute. 62 Delve into 12 Everest or S L E E P E R O T T O M A N 63 Elvis movie, "___ Ararat H I S S N E A R E L I D E Happy" 13 Tom who sang O V A S T A R T E R C A W Week of 8/5/19 - 8/11/19 64 Pixar movie set "I Won't Back R E M I T S T A Y A R M S in Mexico Down" T R E M O L O L E P R O S Y Chotto matte kudasai. 65 Prop for Picasso 21 Get what was P L A N S L A S S 66 Ill at ___ left? T I T L E D W H I T E C A P 67 Follow, as 23 Stiffly formal A D M O N I T I O N N O G O advice 25 ___ and board M E N D D E N S E A P E S 68 Gas additive 27 Refinery residue P A T E A N G E R L E S T

SUDOKU Edited by Margie E. Burke Difficulty: Easy HOW TO SOLVE: 2 6 8 Each row must contain the numbers 1 to 9; each column must contain the numbers 1 to 9; and 3 each set of 3 by 3 boxes must 6 9 5 7 2 3 contain the numbers 1 to 9. 5 1 2 8 Answers to Last Week’s Sudoku: 1 7 8 9 2 4 6 3 5 6 5 6 4 2 5 3 7 8 9 1 3 9 5 1 6 8 2 7 4 2 4 7 9 3 6 2 4 5 7 1 8 6 2 1 7 8 9 3 4 5 6 5 8 4 7 1 6 9 2 3 2 9 7 5 1 6 8 9 3 4 2 4 9 3 5 4 6 9 3 5 2 1 8 7 Copyright 2019 by The Puzzle Syndicate 8 2 3 4 7 1 5 6 9

8 STRIPES OKINAWA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 8 − AUGUST 14, 2019

is year’s many Eisa festivals miss th Where to go n’t KADENA EISA MATSURI: Aug. 16, 6 - 9 p.m.; Eisa groups from Do BY SHOJI KUDAKA, Kadena town are expected to gather on Shinmachi Street STRIPES OKINAWA near Kadena Air Base. HESHIKIYA EISA NO YUBE: Aug. 16, 6 - 9:30 p.m., Youth Eisa t’s time for one of the favorite events of the summer sea- groups with traditional forms of (drums) and dance son and there are plenty of places to catch the festivities perform at Uragahama Park near White Beach, fireworks are I around the island. scheduled to start around 9:30 p.m. as a finale. From August through September, many festivals take place ITOMAN EISA FESTIVAL/FURUSATO MATSURI: Aug. 17 - 18, 1 - that present Eisa, an Okinawan style of dance. Choreographed 9 p.m. (3 - 9 p.m. on the 18th); Eisa performance plus other dancers perform as a group to audiences at a venue, or march entertainment will be presented. Both days conclude with through local communities with their drumbeats marking the fireworks starting 9 p.m. The venue will be Itoman Fishery season of the dance. The Okinawa Zento Eisa Matsuri (from Port North District. Aug. 23 - 25 this year) is the biggest among all the Eisa festi- OKINAWA ZENTO EISA MATSURI: Aug. 23 - 25, 6:30 - 9 p.m. (3 vals on the island and is now combined with a beer festival. - 9 p.m. on Aug. 24 and 25), One of the largest Eisa festivals Get ready for a cultural experience unique to the area and with more than 300,000. The Aug. 23 parade is scheduled to unlike any other! take place along Route 330 and Koza Gate Street. Aug. 24 - 25 [email protected] performances are scheduled to take place at Koza Athletic Park (2-1-1 Moromizato, Okinawa City, near Gate 5 of Kadena Air Base) with fireworks to conclude the event; tickets cost 1,000 yen or more; www.zentoeisa.com SEINEN EISA MATSURI: Aug. 24 and 25, 6:30 p.m. - (6 p.m. - on Aug. 25); Performance by each district of the village will be presented. The venue, Oki Ham Heiwa no Mori Kyujo (Yomitan Peace Forest Baseball Filed) is located near Torii Station. URUMA EISA MATSURI: Aug. 30 - Sep. 1, 6:50 - 9 p.m. (5 - 9 p.m. on Aug. 31 and Sep. 1); Youth eisa groups will gather and parade along the street of Uruma City Hall Gushikawa Office Building on Aug. 30, followed by performance at Yonashiro Sogo Koen Athletic Field on Aug. 31-Sep.1; near Camp Court- ney and White Beach. NAGOSHI SEINEN EISA FESTIVAL: Sep. 22 (rain date Sep. 28), 4 - 9 p.m.; The venue will be an outdoor stage of 21st century forest park. No parking space available around the venue. The festival is expected to conclude Kachaashii, where any- body can participate in the dance.

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The 3 ‘R’s to good eating – Restaurants, Reviews & Recipes

Make it a date at SAM’S! Satisfy your seafood and steak cravings at Sam’s by the Sea, the popular restaurant with a nautical- themed interior and exotic Hawaiian and Polynesian décor that was elected “Best Date Night Restaurant” in Stripes Best of the Pacific 2019. Take in the view of the ocean as you and someone special enjoy a tasty full- course dinner by candlelight. Delight your taste buds with our fresh , King Crab, prawns, red snapper, mahi mahi, and . And our top-quality juicy steaks will leave your mouth watering and your stomach satisfied. Our friendly staff promises to make it a memorable dinner. STRIPES OKINAWA E OF OK AUGUST 8 – AUGUST 14, 2019 AST INAW A T 2 A

Ice cream truck cruising Kadena streets! Be on the lookout for the new FSS ice cream truck, Oki Scoops! We will drive all around Kadena and also take part in all of your favorite events. Oki Scoops serves a variety of ice cream that you can’t find anywhere else on island! Grab one of the nostalgic character pops, soft serve or hard scoop ice cream, sundaes, slushies, and shaved ice. Nothing beats the Okinawan sun quite like a frozen treat from the convenience of your front yard. Make sure to check out Oki Scoops on Facebook to see when the truck will be in your neighborhood!

Kamisushi opens up their new location Kamisushi, Okinawa’s favorite sushi restaurant, is now conveniently located near Carnival Park Mihama. Our friendly staff awaits your arrival! You don’t have to go to the U.S. to get American sushi rolls. At Kamisushi, not only can you try traditional Japanese sushi, but you can also enjoy a variety of American sushi rolls – Cali- fornia, Dynamite and Caterpillar. Try our original Kami Rolls and Mihama Rolls by Chef Isamu Kamiya. You`ll be blown away by his sushi magic! Not a sushi eater? We also have a variety of Okinawan and Japanese dishes available to satisfy your taste buds. AUGUST 8 – AUGUST 14, 2019 E OF OK STRIPES OKINAWA AST INAW A T 3 A

Gen a real gem on Okinawa Offering authentic Japanese and Okinawan cuisine at a reasonable price, Gen was recognized in Stripes’ Best of the Pacific 2013 as the best restaurant to expe- rience the local culture on Okinawa. Owner and Head Chef Naoki Tsukayama highly recommends the “Fish Garlic Butter Combo,” a popular dish among American customers. Tsukayama and his staff make you feel at home, so stop by and enjoy a delicious meal. Gen is lo- cated across from Camp Foster’s fire station. Just look for shi-shi dogs on a traditional Okinawan tile roof outside Foster’s Fire Station Gate.

Get a taste of Hawaii at Hale Noa Cafe The Hale Noa Cafe in Chatan may have had a grand re-opening in January, but it has been serving its cus- tomers since 2015. With its Hawaiian vibe, Hale Noa serves up the some of the best of the 50th state’s fa- vorite foods. Enjoy Macadamia Nut Pancakes, Hawaiian Bowl, Grilled Salmon and more! Hale Noa’s fluffy French Toast with berries and crème brulee sauce is to die for! Afterwards, wash it all down with one of our healthy and homemade smoothies. At Hale Noa Café, we are always adding new items to our all menu, so stay tuned! STRIPES OKINAWA E OF OK AUGUST 8 – AUGUST 14, 2019 AST INAW A T 4 A

TempraOshinko Yakitori ¥600¥200 ¥200 h Tsumami b STRY AND PHOTOS BY TAKAHIRO TAKIGUCHI, What to order Hist STRIPES OKINAWA There are lots to choose from depending on where Tsu you visit. Popular dishes include a range of veggies, same t ver since “washoku,” or traditional Japanese meat and fish. Try some edamame (green soybeans), Japan food, was designated an intangible cultural karaage (fried chicken), sashimi (raw fish), tempura Bac heritage by UNESCO in 2013, popular dishes (deep fried vegetable or seafood), tofu and yakitori ferent Eand liquors like sushi, tempura, sukiyaki, sake, (grilled chicken skewers), potato salad or oden. For In the shochu and awamori— have been garnering a lot of the more culinarily curious, dried and nikomi etable international attention. (stewed offal) might be up your alley. Other tsumami were a In fact, Japanese sake has become so popular include raw horsemeat, dried or fermented offal and people overseas that exports have reached an all-time high , which are seasonal and vary by region. The for the eighth consecutive year, according to Japan’s Tsumami plates are cheap, too, running as low as brough National Tax Agency. 150 yen or 200 yen ($1.50) each. Bbut some high-end cultur With all the interest in sake, it’s only natural for dishes can set you back 1,000 yen ($8.50) or more. the re “tsumami” to suddenly also have its share of the Not only does tsumami enhance the flavors of Jap- fluence spotlight. Tsumami are snacks and food which pair anese alcohol, but they also serve as buffer for alco- nese t perfectly with Japanese adult beverages. Visit any hol intake, helping to prevent or lessen hangovers. boast a izakaya pub in the country and you’ll be surprised Edamame and tofu, both rich in protein, are thought for a at the various menu items meant for snacking with a to significantly help in the digestion of alcohol, Asahi ates. glass of sake or local beer. Beer Company claims on their website.

Tempra R

Hiyayakko Make

your own Ingredients • 70 gram • ½ stub of Shimeji mushrooms Sautéed oysters • ½ stock of Japanese leek • Butter 10 gram and mushrooms • 2 tsp soy sauce • 1 Piece of perilla AUGUST 8 – AUGUST 14, 2019 E OF OK STRIPES OKINAWA AST INAW A T 5 A

Sashimi Atsuage ¥400 ¥300 highlights Japan’s

bar food culture Edamame torical bar snacks Do it like a local mami dates to the 8th century at around the My go-to at an izakaya, like otherer Japanese patronspatrons, is beer and time when sake brewing began to take hold in edamame or hiyayakko (chilled tofu) as a starter. I will then order . sake with sashimi or tempura, as well as a couple of different types ck then, nuts, fruits, some vegetables and dif- of tsumami dishes. seaweed were the core of these pairing dishes. What to order is dependent on the season. While we will order medieval era, the dishes consisted of fish, veg- edamame, hiyayakko (chilled tofu) and cold cucumber in the sum- and rice dishes as meats like pork and beef mer, we most likely order nikomi, oden and sautéed oyster during avoided by the Buddhism belief that teaches the winter. Tofu is served differently depending on the season. In e not to kill animals. the summer, tofu is served chilled with ginger and bonito flake gar- e Meiji Restoration in the late 19th century nish. In the cold season, yudofu, hot tofu, is served with mustard ht a lot of Western foods and meat-eating food and green onion. e to Japan. As You may be surprised when your Japanese coworker esult of this in- tells you, “Let’s order our meal,” after having plenty of e, today Japa- tsumami dishes. tsumami dishes “Let’s order our meal” is almost the same meaning a hearty variety of “it’s about time to head out,” as we usually wrap up variety of pal- our drinking by sampling small portions of simple rice or noodle dishes, such as ochazuke (boiled rice soaked with tea), onigiri (rice ball) or ramen as a closer. [email protected]

Ready! sautéed oysters 6. Put on a plate laid out with perilla leaves.

Karaage 1. Wash oysters well and drain. 2. Cut the base of Shimeji mushrooms and separate them with hands. Slice Japanese leek thinly. 3. Heat fry pan in medium fire. Add butter and sauté mushroom and Japanese SEE OKINAWAN leek. 4. When mushrooms and leek become 5. tender, add oysters and sauté more. When oysters are cooked well, add soy sauce and mix the ingredients. APPETIZERS ON PAGE 6 STRIPES OKINAWA E OF OK AUGUST 8 – AUGUST 14, 2019 AST INAW A T 6 A Okinawan appetizers BY SHOJI KUDAKA, STRIPES OKINAWA

s the number of bars and pubs on the island indicates, drinking is a big part Aof life in Okinawa. But so, too, are the Sukugarasu Mimigar snacks and appetizers that are washed down (Pig’s ear skin) with local brands of alcohol like Orion Beer (Salted Rabbitfish) and Awamori. Listed below are examples of the Okinawan Catch this local delicacy of fer- side dishes commonly available at local bars mented suku fish gracing the top of and supermarkets. Some may make the first tofu at the local izakaya. The com- bite daunting, but in the end, will be worth bination of the tangy, salty fish with the try since many Okinawan bar snacks give the smoothness of the tofu is com- not only a unique dining experience, but are monly considered a delicacy which also chock full of health benefits. pairs well with sake or Awamoris, an Okinawan liquor made of rice. On Okinawa, having fun and eating healthy “Ichagarasu,” or salted squid, often come in one package. and “Watagarasu,” or salted en- trails of bonito, are also common tofu toppings. At local stores, Sukugarasu are sold in bottles packed, literally, like sardines. The fish topping is also eaten a certain way – head first. If you start with a tail, it is said the ThisThisi mmayay nnotott ssoundoundd ffamiliaraammiiliiar to Mozuku small fish may get stuck in your pepeopleople ffromrom ththee StStates,ates bubutt pipigs’gs’ throat, so always remember “head ear skin is a common food in Oki- first.” nawa, where every piece of the animal is used in many different dishes. To prepare the ear skin, first it is burned to get rid of the tiny hairs, then it is boiled or steamed before it is shredded, according to Kyo- k udo Ryouri Monogatari, a website dedicated to local cuisine in Japan. At local bars or supermarkets, this food is often served in peanut or kimchi sauce or sold as flavored ThisThiis ppopularopullar sseaweedeaweed snack is jerky. known for its versatility as well as Although the name “Mimimgar” for being a health food. Mozuku means “pig’s ear skin” in Okinawan can be consumed in various ways, Jimami tofu dialect, the meat itself comes from but more commonly it is soaked a deeper part of the skin, which in vinegar or fried for tempura. (Peanut(P an t TTofu)ofu) has a soft texture that’s a bit chewy Many local supermarkets sell the and feels like cartilage. “Mimigar” seaweed packaged in small plastic is rich in collagen, and as such is cups with different flavors. often described as a health and Known as rich in nutrition such beauty food. as vitamins and fucoidan, a type of water-soluble dietary fiber. The fucoidan is especially valued as it is thought to help fight cancer, help intestinal regulations, and enhance body functions. Okinawa has earned bragging Shima Rakkyou rights over the seaweed as its sig- (Okinawan Shallot) nature product since 90 percent of hallot) Japan’s Mozuku is produced here.

OnO tthehhe iislandslland yoyou’llou’u’ll fifindndd tthathat tottofuffu iisn’tsn’t alalwaysways sosoy-based.y-based. PePeanutanut ttofu,offuu, an OkinawanOki treat, hhas a pudding- ddi like appearance and texture. This tofu has a rich peanut taste with a touch of sweetness, which means it is also consumed as a sweet. Ji- mami tofu is another health and beauty food thought to be benefi- cial for high levels of oleic acid and Another familiar izakaya staple is Oki- vitamin E. nawan shallot, either served pickled or Back in the days of Ryukyu fried as tempura. Kingdom, which lasted from the Compared to mainland Japan’s shallots, 15th to 19th century, Jimami tofu Shima-Rakkyou are smaller in size, but even has a royal background as it with a very spicy flavor and strong scent was the prime choice for welcom- making for another great pairing with lo- ing guests to the royal palace in cal liquor or beer. Okinawa. AUGUST 8 – AUGUST 14, 2019 E OF OK STRIPES OKINAWA AST INAW A T 7 A How to brew a fantastic cup of coffee

BY TESS BERCAN, bacteria or other contaminants sipping experience, buy coffee and removing of sediment, BUSAN HAPS MAGAZINE that add up with use. Use Quality Water beans in smaller amounts and leaving a strong yet clean brew. grind them day by day. This How to use the pour-over hen you wake up in The Black Bear’s Roastery grind-as-you go routine keeps method effectively? First the morning, what’s Check the Water’s guide also suggests that the your coffee as true to quality choose your apparatus (such Wthe first thing on your Temperature water shouldn’t add anything taste as possible. as the Hario V60, Kalita Wave, mind? For many, the answer is extra to your coffee’s flavour. Chemex) or check out a local The Black Bear Micro Roast- simple. It’s coffee. ery – an authentic roastery A lot of the times tap water can Use the Pour-Over cafe for pour-over options. Be It’s a given that this intoxi- that’s dedicated to researched contain chlorine or other sub- Method of Brewing sure to rinse your cone and fil- cating beverage is adored, but quality in beans — made an stances that affect the taste. ter. After that, place the freshly like the sought after yet elu- The pour-over is a hand online guide that discusses the Choose filtered or bottled water ground beans in your filter. Pour brew method of pouring warm sive utopia of Atlantis, does the issue of water. It mentions that, as an option. the warm water over the beans perfect brew actually exist? We ideally, you want your water to water over the coffee grounds. in an even manner. Give the checked out what a Grounds are placed in a filter be between 195- Bean Freshness beans time to soak in the wa- few professionals 205°F (91-96°C). that is held in a cone, such as ter, and pause the pouring. Al- had to say on this It’s essential to get Matters the Kalita Wave or Chemex. In low the liquid to drip through, topic, and came up just the right tem- an interview with Real Simple then begin the pouring again. with a some sugges- perature. Water In his brew guide, Garret Living – a website that provides Basically, you want to repeat tions. that’s even slightly Oden, coffee expert at Yellow solutions for everyday life – the steps of pouring and wait- Tips for Getting www.busanhaps.com too hot will burn House Coffee in Texas, reminds barista champion Katie Cargui- ing until you have the amount the Perfect Cup: the coffee, and wa- us that as soon as beans are lo explained that the pour-over of coffee you want. Clean Your Equipment Often ter that’s a touch too cool can- ground and exposed to oxygen, is her favorite brew method. It Follow the tips above, and You want your equipment not properly extract a bean’s the freshness declines quickly. offers a combination between your patience will pay off with clean and fresh, free of all flavour. To ensure prime quality in your an even saturation of grounds a divine cup of homemade joe.

Bringing a taste of America to Okinawa Since opening our doors in June 2018, halihali has proudly served up tasty American comfort food that has our military community coming back for more. Our casual and cozy café is a place you can feel at home as you dig into our fabulous and famous pancakes, waffles, French toast, hamburgers and other tasty en- trées Americans crave. We want you to relax, take your time and enjoy our American-style breakfast, brunch or lunch. Open 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., we’ll fill your plates with scrumptious food and treat you like family. Come to halihali to feel at home! STRIPES OKINAWA E OF OK AUGUST 8 – AUGUST 14, 2019 AST INAW A T 8 A

We’ll dazzle you and your taste buds! Four Seasons teppanyaki steak house in Awase will not only dazzle you, but also your taste buds. Watch as our talented chefs slice, dice and cook up your entrées right at your table. It’s more than a meal, it’s an event! Our restaurant is the perfect place to relax, unwind and simply enjoy some foodie fun with your family, friend or that special someone. If you haven’t had the pleasure of enjoying Japanese teppanyaki, come in for a visit! Reservations recommended. We have a big counter that fits 14.

Japanese Teppanyaki a tasty treat for all Our teppanyaki steak house in Urasoe City is the perfect place to enjoy tasty food and have fun doing it with family and friends. Watch as our talented chefs slice, dice and cook up your entrées right at your table. It’s more than a meal, it’s an event! Located in a residential area and only a 10-minute drive from Camp Kinser, our Urasoe branch offers a casual atmosphere where all ages are welcome. If you haven’t had the pleasure of enjoying Japanese teppanyaki, you need to come to Four Seasons.