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ST. petersburg

February - March 2014

The Olympics Sochi is ready! Celebrations! Valentine's Day, Maslenitsa, Women's Day and more New Horizons Discover the best panoramic view in the city

February - March 2014 No93 st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com Contents 3

Restaurants 26 Rubinshteina street 34

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Nightlife 38 Bars, pubs and clubs Contents Sightseeing 42 A treasure trove at the Hermitage 46 Foreword 4 Further afield 47 A word from our editor Shopping 49 News 5 What to buy and where What’s new in the city Expat and Lifestyle 51 Basics and Language 6 Expat experience, religious services and more Some useful information Getting around Culture and Events 8 Transport, tickets and more 53 Concerts and exhibitions 11 Maps 54

Features Russia 58 The Olympics 2014 14 Moscow 59 Celebrating Russian Winter 16 Veliky Novgorod 61 Hotels 20 Sochi 62 Interview with consierge 24 Petrozavodsk 64 Best hotel offers 25 Kostroma 66

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 4 Foreword news 5

Get ready! They say that February and March will be the coldest months of the whole year. But we promise, it will be Europe In Your Pocket UK-Russia Year Faberge Museum fun! The St. Petersburg In Your Pocket team has prepared a Each year brings something new and exciting in Russia and A museum dedicated to the works of the famous Russian great range of things for you to choose from. 2014 promises to uphold the tradition being the UK-Russia jeweller Karl Faberge opened this month at the Shuvalovsky Northern First of all, there are a lot of holidays during these months: Ireland Estonia Year of Culture. The cultural year will celebrate the rich and Palace – a short walk from Gostiny Dvor. The newly refur- Valentine’s Day, the Day of the Defenders of the Fatherland, Ireland diverse cultures of both countries. It aims to foster cultural bished building displays about 4000 works of applied art, International Women’s Day and of course Maslenitsa (check Latvia Russia Lithuania exchange and the programme will include the arts, education, including rare paintings and some of the famous Easter eggs our special festive feature on pages 16-19). This last one has language, sport and science. A lot of interesting events will that won the Faberge family acclaim at the end of the 19th always been one of my favourites. Have you ever watched The Belarus be held during this year in both capitals. century and beginning of the 20th century. Netherlands Barber of Siberia (if not, I highly recommend it!)? Remember Poland The year will be officially launched in April with an exhibition The museum, which is privately funded, aims to display this part with the crazy Maslenitsa celebrations next to the Germany Ukraine Belgium The Golden Age of the Russian Avant-Garde at Exhibition As- items dating to Russia’s imperial past and in addition Czech Moscow Kremlin? Yes, that’s what I’m talking about. This Republic sociation Manege in Moscow, created by British film director to the Faberge collection will also house temporary col- scene shows the atmosphere of the holiday so get into a Peter Greenaway. It will culminate with an exhibition at the lections. The museum is a project by the Link of Time festive mood and enjoy it! One of the coolest things about the Austria Switzerland Slovenia Romania Georgia Science Museum, London about Russian space exploration Foundation, established by Russian businessman Viktor Maslenitsa week is, of course, the eating part. Pancakes of all Croatia Italy which will include unique objects that have never before been Vekselberg. The organisation’s aim is to locate, acquire Bosnia Serbia sorts and kinds can be found almost everywhere in the city: in Bulgaria seen outside Russia. and bring back to Russia items of cultural and historical cosy and popular café’s and luxurious and elegant restaurants. Montenegro Kosovo FYR Macedonia This is a great year to celebrate English, Russian and the significance. Vekselberg is owner of Renova Group which By the way, if you want to see the biggest Maslenitsa Albania cultures of the two countries. Like our Facebook page to has interests in energy, aluminium and telecommunica- celebrations in Russia you can take a trip to Pskov, a mediaeval Greece keep up with the latest events as part of this year of culture. tions. Forbes magazine estimates that he is the fourth city located just a few hours southwest of St. Petersburg (see www.ukrussia2014.ru richest man in Russia. page 17). I’ve never been there myself but a few colleagues of You can book a free tour by sending a request to 3332655@ mine say that it is a real must during the winter months. If you fsv.ru. www.fsv.ru take this trip don’t forget to share your impressions with us It’s now 22 years since we published the first (by e-mail to [email protected] or on our Facebook page www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket). In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in Bar opens new horizons which time we have grown to become the largest Apart from the holidays, February and March are one of the AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg (Lermontovsky pr. 43/1) busiest months of the year culture-wise. Check our Culture publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the opened the Sky Bar on January 23, which claims to offer the and Events section (pages 8-13), I’m sure you will find highest panoramic views in St. Petersburg. The bar, located something po dushe (literally translated as “for your soul” continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest 69 metres above sea level, is on the 18th storey of the former and means “what you like”). While visiting the Hermitage city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, Sovetskaya Hotel and provides guests with breathtaking go to the “hidden” golden and diamonds rooms (see page witty, well-written and downright indispensable views of the historic city – being significantly higher than 46). We were there a month ago and were really impressed! In Your Pocket guides published each year is most other buildings in the area. The minimalistic style of Thank you for reading and enjoy the city! S Prazdnikami! approaching five million. We will be expanding even the bar is accentuated by the sharp contrast of the interior Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket further this year, with the publication of a guide to design with dark walls contrasting against marble of the bar. Johannesburg: our first outside of Europe. Hermitage to host Manifesta 10 The lighting is provided with muted lights and tall panoramic Cover story windows. The bar’s menu includes items from Scandinavian, To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your The State Hermitage Museum has been selected to host Asian and Russian cuisine. www.azimuthotels.com A room with a view. This magnificent view onto Troitsky Ca- Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ Manifesta 10. Manifesta is a nomadic European Biennial of thedral was taken from the recently opened Sky Bar. Located inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ contemporary art, which changes its location every two years. on the 18th storey of the AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg, the inyourpocket). It purposely tries to stay away from the world’s dominant art Tandoor celebrates 20 years bar offers some of the best views of the city. See our news capitals, instead seeking to spread art’s development in the story on page 5 for details. Photo by Ilya Timshin. fields of curation, experimentation, education, and produc- Located next to St. Isaac’s Cathedral Tandoor has been tion. St. Petersburg was selected “because of its critical making mouths water for the past 20 years. Established intellectual and historical relationship with East and West in March 1994 the Indian restaurant has delighted the palettes of the local Indian community, expatriates and Editorial department Editor’s note Europe: a uniting principal that is also central to Manifesta, as the single roving European biennial of contemporary art”. In Russians who have fallen in love with the succulent Editor The editorial content of In Your Pocket 2014 Manifesta will celebrate its 20th anniversary, as it was meat and subtle spices of Indian cuisine. Tandoor was ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Ksenia Elzes, [email protected] guides is independent from paid-for founded to “respond to the new social, cultural and political established during a period when good food was par- Layout & Design advertising. ticularly hard to come by and the appearance of such a Malvina Markina We welcome all readers‘ comments and reality that emerged in the aftermath of the Cold War”. The St. Petersburg In Your Pocket [email protected] suggestions. We have made every effort to opening of Manifesta will coincide with the Hermitage’s 250th restaurant was desperately needed in St. Petersburg. founded and published by Research [email protected] ensure the accuracy of the information at anniversary. 29 June – 31 October. www.manifesta.org The team at St. Petersburg In Your Pocket congratulates OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. PR Ksenia Elzes, [email protected] the time of going to press and assume no Tandoor on their significant anniversary and wishes Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Contributors responsibility for changes and errors. them many more years of delicious culinary delights. Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, Peter Campbell, Andy Potts Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане www.tandoor-spb.ru tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, Photo Ilya Timshin Учредитель и издатель: fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, Commercial department ООО «Красная Шапка» [email protected] Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург russia.inyourpocket.com Sales Managers Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. Ilya Timshin, [email protected] тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, Peter Smirnov, [email protected] факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 [email protected] To order issues Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде General director Tanya Skvortsova, Tanya Kharitonova Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, [email protected] [email protected] 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Director Sales & Strategy Copyright notice Всеволожский пр., 114 Jerke Verschoor, [email protected] Заказ No59-10 © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this Свидетельство о регистрации средства Published 6 times per year with массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 supplements, publication may be reproduced in any form, except o brief extracts for the purpose of review, without от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным N 93, 01.02.2014, 90.000 copies региональным управлением комитета © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, written permission from the publisher and copy- right owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used РФ по печати. Цена свободная. www.jobvandermolen.nl o under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Тираж 90 000 экз. N 93. 01.02.2014 For children aged 16 years and over. Для детей старше 16 лет.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 6 Basics AND LANGUAGE Basics AND LANGUAGE 7

Be on guard! Useful Phrases Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking Basic phrases loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте descent exercise caution, particularly at night. Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t Thank you Spasibo Спасибо speak Russian it may be better to call the English lan- Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините guage tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33. Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю по- your passport has been stolen. The police here gener- Russian pa-russky русски ally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your Pocket dictionary Do you speak Vy gavaritye pa- Вы говорите по- English? anglisky? английски? passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few Morzh Help! Pomogitye! Помогите! photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians Hairy, fat and ugly and with quite some usy (moustache) Go away! Ostavte menya! Оставьте меня! all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather morzhy (walruses) are popularly referred to as the ‘elephants I need some help Mne nuzhna Мне нужна than the original. of the sea’. In the Russian arctic they have been hunted for pomoshch помошь generations by the chukchi (native polar tribes) who rely I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу on them for meat, oil and clothing. Furthermore their klyuki I (don't) like it Mnye (ne) nravitsa Мне (не) Foreigner Prices (tusks) are carved into ceremonial items and fur and skin нравиться The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days is used to insulate the chum (a kind of large house-tent). May I? Mozhno? Можно? of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and Outside of the polar regions if you hear locals talking about Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...? museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times morzhy they’re probably referring to Russian ice-swimmers I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist who like to refer to themselves as walruses. As soon as the How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит? that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the frosts arrive morzhy like to gather together, cut a special It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого! ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you whole in the ice and take a swim. They say that the freezing More/less Yesho/menshe Еще/меньше work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price. temperatures and general shock to the body is good for Large/small Bolshoy/malenky Большой/ circulation, kills bacteria and cleanses the body. маленкий Good/bad Khorosho/plokho Хорошо/плохо Health and Safety It hurts! Bolno! Больно! Despite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than To da y Sevodnya Сегодня your average European city. Russian drivers are your biggest Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра danger, so cross roads carefully. In the winter icy streets and Could you write it Zapishite Запишите, huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk. down? pazhalusta пожалуйста The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy Toilets Tualet Туалет Alcohol metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For Stop here please Ostanavite Остановите, The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, pazhalusta пожалуйста When? At what Kogda? Vo skolko? Когда? Во The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first. time? сколько? certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Tost What time is it? Katory chas? Который час? Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka Mobile Phones Russians are famous for their depth of dusha (soul) and love of Who? Kto? Кто? is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose vodka. Typically when these two things come together we get the How do you say Kak skazat eto Как сказать это from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an interna- tost (toast). Toasting is just as complex as anything else in Russia that in Russian? pa-russky? по-русски? followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular tional roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile GSM and so a straightforward ‘cheers!’ or na zdaroviye! (to health!) is No problem Bez problem Без проблем alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad far too simple. Traditionally the first drink is for the reason for the Of course Koneshno Конечно (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing celebration, for example S Dnyom Rozhdeniya (happy birthday). Let's go together! Davay vmeste! Давай вместе! that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone, for a direct-dial This is followed by a very short break - mezhdu pervoy i vtoroy Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником! between 23:00 and 08:00. number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and pereryvchik nebolshoy (between the first and the second there’s Password Parol Пароль then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed a not very big break) and then another shot. The next toast is often line just dial the seven-digits. It may be easiest to buy a local something like to parents ‘za roditeley’. The third drink should be In the restaurant/bar Climate SIM card for use in your own phone. To purchase, you need to for love ‘za lyubov’ and should be drunk with the left hand (the left Bill Please Shchot pazhalusta Счет, show your passport, visa and registration. hand is closer to the heart). At some point you should also of course пожалуйста Winters in Russia are fierce and February is typically one make a toast to your meeting ‘za vstrechu’ and then one for friends I am a vegetarian Ya vegetarianets Я вегетарианец of the coldest months of the year, with temperatures ‘za druzhbu’. And don’t forget even if you don’t understand a word (Non) smoking (Ne) kuryashchee (Не) курящее sometimes getting as low as -20, so warp up warm and Money of it, you can only drink up when a toast is finished. place mesto место don’t forget your thick socks and warm gloves! Layers are The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in I am allergic to… U menya allergiya У меня аллергия usually the most practical. Only in the end of March does denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins Very tasty! Ochen vkusno! Очень вкусно! the city really start to thaw so until then expect a lot of ice come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and Numbers and snow in the streets and minuses on the thermometer. kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or 1 adin 12 dvinatsat 50 pyatdesyat euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels. 2 dva 13 trinatsat 60 shesdesyat Alphabet 3 tri 14 chetyrnatsat 70 semdesyat Registration 4 chetyre 15 pyatnatsat 80 vosemdesyat 5 pyat 16 shesnatsat 90 devyanosta Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your 6 shest 17 semnatsat 100 sto arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). 7 sem 18 vosemnatsat 500 pyatsot Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of 8 vosem 19 devyatnatsat 1000 tysicha arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you 9 devyat 20 dvatsat 2000 dve tysyachi don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems 10 desyat 30 tritsat when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight 11 adinatsat 40 sorok while officials interrogate you.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 8 Culture & Events Culture & Events 9

Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing 19.02 Wednesday it through the finest museums and historical locations, you February events 19:00 Kitaro The Musical Hermitage can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and E-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Con- every night you choose. cert Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky A festival celebrating the 250th anniversary of the State pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. Hermitage Museum with performances from some of the (+7) 812 703 40 40, www. world’s leading musicians from a range of genres including Concert Halls and Clubs kitaromusic.com. Japanese the Hadouk Trio from France, Norwegian trumphetist Arve Aurora Concert Hall E-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. New Age guru, Kitaro, has for Henriksen and the Lighthous Trio from the UK. The festival Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru the last forty years performed will also include an innovative performance Shakespeare Club A2 D-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. international audiences. The bilingual in honour of the bard’s 450th anniversary. Q (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm composer, arranger and multi- Tickets 300 - 1,700Rbl. Tel. (+7) 812 495 70 43, Club Cosmonavt D-4, Bronnitskaya ul., 24, MTekh- instrumentalist holds such www.hermitagemusic.ru. nologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www. awards as a Grammy and cosmonavt.su Golden Globe. His audiences 16.02 Sunday Gorkogo Palace of Culture (DK Gorkogo) pl. can feel the energy of his truly magical and spiritual music. 20:00 The Jury Honing Acoustic Quartet Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, 01.02 Saturday The composer is presenting his new programme Final Call. and Lighthouse Trio www.gorkogo.spb.ru 20:00 OneRepublic The concept is to help audiences reexamine how they relate Glinka Academic Chapel, D-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 20, Grand Philharmonic Hall D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul., 2, D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) to the world and the environment before it is too late. Kitaro‘s MNevsky pr. The festival begins with a concert by two MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www.philhar- 812 309 99 22, www.onerepublic.com. American group performances are always linked by a message of love and he of the biggest names in European jazz. Dutch saxophonist monia.spb.ru OneRepublic is one of the first examples of a group which has believes the key to changing the world is to begin by loving Jury Honing has performed in 18 albums. The Lighthouse Ledovy Dvorets Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, made it big due to social media. In 2007, the band released ourselves. Q Tickets 900 - 5,000Rbl. Trio led by multi-instrumentalist and composer Tim Garland tel. +7 (812) 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru their debut album Dreaming out loud and its lead song is considered one of the strongest jazz groups today and Lensoveta Palace of Culture (DK Lensoveta) D-1, Apologize was found on MySpace by American producer and 21.02 Friday - 27.02 Thursday the participation of Gwilym Simcock and Asaf Sirkis adds a Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) rapper Timbaland and remixed leading to huge international Slava Polunin Snow Show Latin American and Eastern flavour to this dynamic group. 812 346 30 63 www.lensoveta.ru success - taking the top place in the charts of 16 countries. D-2, Mikhailovksy Theatre, E-3, Ligovsky Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) The band‘s second album, Waking Up (2009), led to some pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky 19.02 Wednesday pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, www. of the bands best known hits such as All the Right Moves pr., tel. (7) 812 595 43 20:00 Shakespeare bilingual bkz.sp.ru and Secrets. The St. Petersburg concert is being held as 05, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Erarta Museum of Contemporary Art, B-3, 29-ya Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Sport Concert Complex (SKK) part of an international tour showcasing their latest album Slava Polunin’s Snow Show linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya. Celebrating the 450th Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 21 64, www.spbckk.ru Native. The band is known for not only performing their own has received acclaim world birthday of the Bard, William Shakespeare, the festival has songs but also covers for acts such as U2, Justin Timberlake wide – especially in countries prepared a special programme mixing together various Theatres and Adele. Q Tickets 1,500 - 6,000Rbl. where there is less snow. art forms of painting, video art, literature, theatre, music Slava Polunin and his troupe and improvisation to honour the playwright’s genius. It E-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky Alexandrinsky Theatre 14.02 Friday of clowns work with a winter will include the performances of Hugo Ticciati (violin, pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, en.alexandrinsky.ru. theme making use of snow to UK) and Yuri Honing (sax, Netherlands) and also recitals C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 20:00 AYO Imperial Hermitage Theatre create a fairy tale of fun and of the Sonnets by Terry Sweeney (UK) and Konstantin 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www. D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bron- amusement for children of all Malyshev (Russia). The performance will be conducted balet-spb.ru. nitskaya ul. 24, MTekhno- ages. The cast of this touching show changes constantly in both Russian and English. C-3, Teatralnaya pl.1, MSennaya logichesky institut, tel. Mariinsky Theatre and the show changes as clowns mature and old ideas are pl, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. replaced with new ones. The performance is enhanced by an 21.01 Friday D-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky ayomusic.com. Ayo com- Mikhailovsky Theatre eclectic mix of music to bring out the clown in all of us and the pr, tel.(+7)812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. bines the musical traditions 20:00 Hadouk Trio (France) shocking climax of the spectacle is carried out to the chilling D-3, Italyanskaya of five continents to create Atrium of the General Staff Building, D-2, Dvortsovaya State Theatre of Musical Comedy chords of Carmina Burana. The show has been running now ul., 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www. a sound of joy. Her celebra- pl. 6/8, MNevsky pr. The Hadouk Trio is a group of for 18 years and shows little sign of growing old to this bunch spbmuzcomedy.com tion of life is reflected in the multi-instrumentalists who seek exotic musical experi- name of her debut album of clowns. Q Show start at 14:00, 15:00, 18:00, 19:00 and ences and carry the audience away on their captivating Joyful (2006) which reached 19:30. Tickets 1,600 - 6,000Rbl. journeys. The trio’s members are Didier Malherbe (duduk, Temptation Shows double platinum status in flutes, sax soprano) Loy Ehrlich (gumbass), Partice Heral France and was well received 26.02 Wednesday (percussion). The group has recorded seven albums and Iskushenie (temptation) dance troupe presents two throughout Europe and the United States. In 2009, the young 20:00 SCHILLER played in numerous festivals. beautiful shows in February that explore the complexities singer became a UNICEF patron promoting children‘s rights to D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bron- and depths of emotions and relationships. Breathing you education and in the same year she was the subject of a docu- nitskaya ul. 24, MTekh- 23.02 Sunday (01.02, Lensoveta Palace of Culture, Kamennoostrovsky mentary film by Raphaël Duroy. Her music mixes elements of nologichesky institut, tel. 20:00 Belcanto pr. 42, metro Petrogradskaya) is a complicated love story folk, jazz, soul, reggae and rock. Q Tickets 1,500 - 2,200Rbl. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. Glinka Academic Chapel presenting the internal dialogue of the character as he musik.schillerserver.de. Great music from your favourite Italian operas will be explores the simmering resentments that destroy his 16.02 Saturday Inspired by electronic greats played at the Glinka Academic Chapel in this unforget- relationship. 19:00 Tango Passion such as Tangerine Dream, table evening. Winners of the Spoleto competition Isotton The performance Between you and me (14.02, Music Gorkogo Palace of Culture (DK Gorkogo), pl. Stachek 4, Kraftwerk and Klaus Schulze Chiara, Giuseppe Distefano and Davide Giangrigorio will be Hall, Aleksandrovsky park 4, metro Gorkovskaya) de- MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo. Schiller creates a world of accompanied by the State Hermitage Orchestra, directed scribes the story of a man madly in love who is forced to spb.ru. Tango is synonymous with passion, romance and transparent sound tinged with by Swedish conductor Mats Liljefors. break up due to his inability to understand her “women’s desire. This St. Petersburg performance, dedicated to nostalgia and connecting the logic”, but as he narrates the frustrating, touching and Valentine’s Day, features leading tango dancers from the past with the present and has 25.02 Tuesday amusing stories of their love, he comes to the terrible Tango World Championship. Feel the emotion as you watch been praised as ‚global pop‘ and as ‚electronic music touch- 20:00 Arve Henriksen and the Trio Mediae- truth that he has made a terrible mistake. Both stories these inspiring performances and listen to the heart throb- ing the depths of the soul‘. Based in Berlin, Schiller has been val (Norway) use dance and physical theatre to explore and show creating his own electronica since 1998 with platinum album bing music. The performance includes soundtracks from Atrium of the General Staff Building the rawest emotions in an astonishing performance. Q Last Tango in Paris and Scent of a Woman with a rendition success and sold out tours. His concert tours are accompanied "Breathing you" starts at 19:00. "Between you and by light shows. After a two year absence from Russia Schiller At the Hermitage Festival Trio Mediaeval and Arve Henriks- of famous tango La cumparsita. This promises to be a rare son present a unique programme of old Norwegian and Ice- me" starts at 20:00. Tel. (+7) 812 578 18 17, www. and unusual performance with romantic music and dancing returned in November 2013 and his show was such a success iskushenie.su. that he has been persuaded to bring his it back for another landic songs, in which the northern mediaeval chants, hymns to match the mood of Valentine’s Day and steal the heart of and songs of love are captured by modern performance. those dearest to you. Q Tickets 600 - 2,500Rbl. night of electronic splendour. Q Tickets 2,200 - 4,000Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 10 Culture & Events Culture & Events 11

04.03 Tuesday 08.03 Saturday Armin Only 20:00 Avishai Cohen Trio 20:00 Club Des Belugas and Brenda Boykin Depeche Mode E-1, Aurora Concert Hall, E-1, Aurora Concert Hall, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 812 907 19 17, www. 907 19 17, www.club-des- avishaicohen.com. Avishai belugas.com. Lovers of Nu Cohen is considered to be Jazz are in for a treat. This one of the leading bassists leading German jazz group has in contemporary jazz. The firmly established its position Israeli-American musician in the musical soundscape has released 13 albums and with hits such as Wildcats collaborated with musicians Gotta Move, and their album such Danilo Perez and Chick Corea. He mixes Middle Eastern Apricoo Soul. The band’s music has been adopted in adver- and Mediterranean melodies as well as borrowing from ethnic tisements for LG Electronics, Lexus, Ford, KIA, Jaguar, Honda, music and merging it with urban minimalism. Cohen is known Nivea, Samsung, Mercedez-Benz, BMW, Martini, Beeline while 08.02 Saturday for bringing a holistic understanding to his music, possessing their tracks have been licensed for various compilations 630 22:00 Armin Only: Intense a clear idea of what he wants to create. When performing times. The band also actively participates in festivals around SKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 he becomes fully entranced by his music and seems to live the globe, having clocked up over 100 festival performances 04.03 Tuesday 363 33 33, www.arminonly.com. Armin Van Buuren is in his performance – creating a magical experience for the since 2007. The group has an eclectic repertoire including 20:00 Depeche Mode one of the biggest DJs in the business, producing spec- audience. Q Tickets 1,000 - 1,800Rbl. bossa nova, swing, club electronica and lounge. For their St. SKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 tacular shows that are more than electronica. Attracting Petersburg performance Club des Belugas will be joined by 703 40 40, www.depechemode.com. Depeche Mode thousands of fans, his performances include dance 06.03 Thursday powerful contralto Brenda Boykin. Q Tickets 1,000 - 1,800Rbl. proves that you can never get too old to trance out to numbers, acrobatics and special effects, accompanied 20:00 Emir Kusturica & The No Smoking electronica. Despite struggling with alcohol, drug abuse by live music and singers. The Dutch producer has won Orchestra 13.03 Thursday and depression the British group has managed to stick numerous accolades and his weekly radio show, A State D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bron- 20:00 Gogol Bordello together and stay at the top of hit parades for the last of Trance, is broadcast in 26 countries and has 20 million nitskaya ul. 24, MTekhno- D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 30 years with 49 songs reaching number one on the listeners. Armin has also produced five albums, with his logichesky institut, tel. 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. UK charts and with over 100 million disk sales. Having 2008 studio album Imagine making it to number one on (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. performed to over 30 million people this is your oppor- the Dutch charts. Q Tickets 1,700 - 5,000Rbl. thenosmokingorchestra. gogolbordello.com. Inspired tunity to experience the cult band live. The concert in St. com. Emir Kusturica is famous by Gypsy and Eastern Euro- Petersburg will feature songs from their new album Delta 27.02 Thursday around the world for his artistic pean music Gogol Bordello Machine as well as some old time classics. Q Tickets 20:00 Backstreet Boys talents, sense of fun and is a punk band with a sound 2,500 - 10,000Rbl. passion. The film director has of its own, mixing the accor- D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov won numerous international dion, violin and saxophone to 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. awards for his films which generate a sound quite unlike (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. often include wild and wonderful musical elements. Kusturica‘s any punk you‘ve ever heard backstreetboys.com. The passion for film is equally strong for music and his No Smoking before. The group started Backstreet Boys have sold Orchestra promises an emotional and fun performance full of out in Manhatten and have strong Ukrainian and Yiddish over 130 million records joy and romance. Kusturica is heavily influenced by the rich influences. They have appeared in a number of popular films worldwide, making them combination of sounds from his homeland in the Balkans which including Everything is Illuminated (2005) where the band‘s the best-selling boy band in are thrown together with gypsy abandon to create stunning leader Eugene Hütz co-starred next to Elijah Wood. The band history. The boy band first sounds and an exciting spectacle. Q Tickets 1,200 - 7,000Rbl. has toured extensively through America and Europe and have appeared in Orlando back produced six albums, the latest Pura Vida Conspiracy was in 1993 and with their first 07.03 Friday released in 2013 and which promoter promise ‘will break single We‘ve got it Going On (1995) the group achieved down walls.‘ Q Tickets 1,200 - 6,000Rbl. almost instant success in Europe. During the late 90s the 20:00 Bullet For My Valentine D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhno- group gained widespread recognition and popularity with 14.03 Friday a series of popular albums including Backstreet‘s Back, logichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.bul- Millennium and Black and Blue. The group is particularly letformyvalentine.com. Following the release of their debut 19:00 Apocalyptica famous for hits such as As Long as You Love Me and Quit album Poison on 14 February 2005 they were immediately E-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Con- Playing Games. Q Tickets 1,800 - 6,000Rbl. welcomed as a leading heavy metal groups. The band has cert Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky managed to compose its music using old school rhythms pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. and beats and combining it with a modern ‘harsh‘ sound and (+7) 812 703 40 40, www. March events adding to it an intangible mix of romance which should seem apocalyptica.com. This 01.03 Saturday out of place in 21st century heavy rock. The Welsh group‘s popular Finnish group won a 20:00 Within Temptation latest album Temper Temper was released in February 2013 wide audience by performing D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) and the creative group are promising to start work on a new cover versions of famous 812 309 99 22, www.within-temptation.com. Within album in the near future. Q Tickets 1,900 - 4,500Rbl. heavy metal groups, having Temptation will be visiting Russia as part of a European tour been set up as a Metallica to support a new album - which is yet to be released (or even cover band while the group were studying at the Sibelius named). The music of the Dutch group is often described Academy. The group has a rich repertoire and a wealth of as symphonic metal or gothic metal. The band had been a influences including classical music, heavy metal, hard rock prominent member of the Dutch underground scene before and post-grunge. The band has also borrowed from folk and being found in 2001 with their single Ice Queen which reached Middle Eastern music. The band has produced seven albums number two on the Dutch charts. The band has released a which mix cover songs with their own compositions. They have total of five albums and has also spawned a comic book sold over four million albums to date. The St. Petersburg con- series and a number of short films which were released with cert will be performed alongside the Finnish Avanti! Chamber their last album The Unforgiving released in 2011. The band Orchestra with Apocalyptica songs specially arranged for a is known for its energy and force. Q Tickets 1,500 - 7,000Rbl. 25 piece orchestra. Q Tickets 1,600 - 5,000Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 12 Culture & Events Culture & Events 13

18.03 Tuesday Through 17.03 Monday Voca People 19:00 The Royal Philharmonic Orchestra and Exhibitions Vladimir Yashke Chorus play Rock Hits Through 02.03 Sunday D-2, Marble Palace, Millionnaya ul. 5/1, MAdmiralteis- D-2, Grand Philharmonic Hall, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, 100 Wonders of the World kaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 91 96, www.rusmuseum.ru. MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.rpo.co.uk. D-3, Perinnye Ryady Art Centre, Dumskaya ul. 4, Vladimir Yashke is a legendary figure in the St. Petersburg The Royal Philarmonic Concert Orchestra (UK) and Metro MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 20 28, www.artcenter. underground. Yashke continues to work, maintaining his indi- Voices choir have joined forces to create a unique concert su. This exhibition which was put together with the help of vidual and recognisable style, marked by unfettered freedom presenting some of the greatest rock songs. Your favourite National Geographic has turned into an international photo of painting and close attention to colour and texture - the keys songs will be brought to life by a full orchestra and some of festival with the most amazing, astonishing and unusual pho- to 20th century painting. Vladimir Yashke‘s work is displayed the most powerful voices in the world. Hear your favourite tographs chosen out of over a million images from around the at the Russian Museum and other museums around Russia classics from U2, Cold Play, Queen, Bon Jovi and George world. The exhibition includes images from Russia, Germany, and overseas. However the exhibition in the Marble Palace will Michael. Both the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra and USA, Indonesia, Australia, Malaysia, Kuwait and even African be the first exhibition to present the main stages of Yashke‘s Metro Voices have extensive experience in a wide range of countries. The exhibition is a unique way of re-examining our creative journey. The exhibition, dedicated to Yashke‘s 65th genres with the philharmonic touring widely around the world. view of the world from the perspective of different societies birthday, will present more than 100 pieces of the maestro‘s Metro Voices have been involved in some of the biggest films and cultures. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00. art. The paintings are brought together with romance and 31.03 Monday including The Great Gatsby, Alice in Wonderland and The humour. The exhibition includes works from private collections 19:00 Voca People Da Vinci Code. The St. Petersburg concert is one of only as well as the Russian Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon D-1, Lensoveta Palace of Culture (DK Lensoveta), eight. Q Tickets 1,000 - 6,500Rbl. 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, www.voca-people.com. Voca People is described as 27.03 Thursday a ‘musical show from a different planet for the whole 20:00 The Asteroids Galaxy Tour family‘. Courageous visitors and guests are invited to E-1, Aurora Concert Hall, participate in this out of world experience as they listen to Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, ‘alien‘ performances of international hits. The group tours MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 internationally and has a repertoire of over 70 classic hits 907 19 17, www.theast- from different musical periods. The band has no musical eroidsgalaxytour.com. The accompaniment and rely entirely on their own vocal talent Danish group has been heard to recreate your favourite songs, imitating the sounds of by almost everyone around various instruments including trumpets, drums, guitars, the globe who has turned on Through 09.03 Sunday violins and even a piano! A show that children and adults a television in the past five The Kingdom of Florа can enjoy together. Q Tickets TBA. years – although many will not C-3, Rumyantsev maison, Angliskaya nab. 44, MAdmiral- have heard the name of this teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 498 creative band. Their 2008 05 03, www.spbmuseum. single Around the Bend was chosen by Apple to advertise the Buying Concert Tickets ru. Displayed in Russia for Through 17.03 Monday iPod Touch and a year later this same melody was chosen for the first time, the exhibition Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices a film about Vogue editor Anna Wintour. The band continues comprises canvases from the Dinner is served. and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many working with influential people and commercial brands and Modus Vivendi Art Gallery of D-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboe- in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as acting as an advertising medium the band has acquired a nature morte floral paintings dova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www. they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and fan base of millions around the world. Having released two by Dutch and Flemish painters rusmuseum.ru. The theme of food was in high demand shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets albums (Fruit and Out of Frequency) the group has spent the from the 17th century to the throughout the 18th and 19th centuries by Russian artists and also sell tickets online. There are also online services last three years doing concert tours around the group. This start of the 18th century. The - this however is the first exhibition dedicated to this sumptu- that allow you to reserve and/or buy tickets. will be their first visit to Russia. Q Tickets 1,000 - 1,800Rbl. exhibition includes works from ous subject matter. The exhibition will present more than 300 Kassir.ru The only website that offers their event list- the famous Brueghel family: exponents portraying the full variety of Russian taste from ings in English. 28.03 Friday Jan Pieter Brueghel the Younger, Jan Pieter Brueghel the Elder, this period. The exhibition will include the dinner services of Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive list- 20:00 Dead By April Ferdinand Brueghel; and also Jan-Baptist Bosschaert, Gaspar the tsars, items of applied and decorative arts, and paint- ings available, but is only in Russian. D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bron- Pieter Verbruggen the Younger, Jan Philips van Thielen, Pieter ings depicting various dinners: from modest servings to royal nitskaya ul. 24, MTekhno- Castells III, Jan van Huysum and Flemish women Alida Withoos feasts. Works on display include such famous masters as Ma- logichesky institut, tel. and others. The exhibition is decorated by luscious bouquets kovsky, A.Ryabushkin, B.Kustodiev, I.Mashkov, Konchalovsky, 18.03 Tuesday (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. of real flowers. Visitors can admire not only the floral paint- A.Plastov, Ivanov. Also on display are the recipes of Russian 19:00 Thirty Seconds to Mars deadbyapril.com. Swed- ings but also learn about the complex symbolism involved cuisine and numerous court menus and aristocratic dining experiences from the first half of the 19th century. Q Open SKK, pr. Gagarina 8, ish metal-core group whose in Dutch and Flemish nature morte, decoding the forgotten 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 2009 single Losing You hit and enigmatic language of flowers. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, 812 703 40 40, www. the top of the charts in 2009 Wed 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. thirtysecondstomars.com. is returning to Russia as part Thirty Seconds to Mars is one of the Let the World Know Through 28.04 Monday of those few groups that like Tour 2014 supporting their Golden childhood…noble indulgence to meet its fans. Their sin- new album. The group was C-3, Alexander Blok Museum, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSen- cerity and openness reveals formed in 2007 and was popularly received through internet naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 498 05 03, www.spbmuseum.ru. their general philosophy to releases before signing with Universal Music and making it Dedicated to the raising of children in noble families at the music and life in general and is on the international music scene. Based on the success of turn of the 19th and 20th century the exhibition shows the reflected in their songs. Their their first album Dead by April went on their first world tour. favourite pass-times, interests and games of youngsters at philosophical and spiritual The group has just finished its latest album and is looking that time. The exhibition includes numerous photographs lyrics, concept albums and experimental music,combining ele- forward to performing in Russia. Q Tickets 1,200 - 2,300Rbl. as well as a reconstruction of a children‘s room, children‘s ments of electronica, has led them to be compared to groups clothing and everyday possessions and toys: a train, a bike such as Pink Floyd, The Cure, Tool, and U2. The US band is shaped like a horse, a dolls house, croquet mallet and many one of the most successful in recent years. Their four albums For all the latest concert, event and other items, including children‘s journals, books and board have sold over five million copies. The St. Petersburg concert exhibition news follow us on facebook at games. The exhibition includes an interactive zone where promises the band‘s most popular songs and a programme www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket visitors make their own toys and can also play board games. full of surprises. Q Tickets 1,500 - 4,000Rbl. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 14 FeatureS FeatureS 15

Russia at the Olympics For Football Fans When it comes to the Olympics, sport has always been mixed with a little politics. During the Cold War the United States and Soviet Union competed against each other, believing that athletic skill on the sports field equated to military power on the battlefield. Given this intense competition, many are sur- prised to learn that although the Russian Empire participated in the 1900, 1908 and 1912 Olympics, the Soviet Union didn’t participate in them until 1952 when they were held in Helsinki, Finland. The Sochi Olympics are the second to be held in Russia with the first held in Moscow in 1980. Moscow took considerable pride in these Olympics, building much of Moscow’s sporting infrastructure for the events and extending television coverage to many regions of the Soviet Union that had previously been beyond broadcast range. However, the much anticipated event was something of a flop. Protesting the Soviet Union’s 1979 invasion of Afghanistan, America led a group of 65 countries that boycotted the Olympics (compared to only 24 countries that boycotted the 1976 Olympics in South Visitors to St. Petersburg this February and March will get Africa). In response the Soviet Union boycotted the 1984 Los the rare opportunity of watching world class football be- Where To Watch Sochi after the Olympics Angeles Olympics. Since the end of the Cold War, Russia has ing played in one of the northernmost football stadiums Sport fans have flocked to the resort town of Sochi for the actively participated in both summer and winter events and in the world – St. Petersburg’s own Petrovsky Stadium. Nothing beats the energy and excitement of watching Olympics, but it might be worth considering a trip to Russia’s despite economic difficulties have managed to maintain their The local football heroes, FC Zenit, have qualified for a game live in the stadium, with the throb of the crowd Riviera once the sports obsessed crowds have departed, position in international sport maintaining medal hauls for the the UEFA Champions League playoff phase, meaning and the thrill and tension of the sport. But if you can’t leaving in their wake a city of world class facilities which are summer games of second, third and fourth place overall and Europe’s most important football tournament is coming be there yourself, joining a bunch of friends down at ready for a visit by guests willing to spend time to explore the largely staying in the top five for the winter games. For the Sochi to town on February 25. Those ready to brave the cold a classy sports bar is a pretty good alternative. Enjoy beauty and attractions of this little known part of Russia. Olympics, Russia has spent a record $ 51 billion USD which has are in for a heated football contest between Russia’s the game on large screen TVs, order some classic pub Known during the Soviet times as the Russian Riviera, Sochi gone to building venues and tourism infrastructure – making finest team and German giants Borussia Dortmund, last food and a jug or two of beer and enjoy the best sports is a resort town located on the Black Sea, nestled under the the Olympics the most expensive games ever. year’s Champions League finalists. events in comfort. Caucasus mountains, offering you plenty of options all year Zenit has its work cut out against such a European St. Petersburg In Your Pocket has selected the best round to do sport, get back to nature or just chill out in a powerhouse, but this is what Italian head coach Luciano sports bars in the city which promise you great ser- Jacuzzi and watch the world go by. Your favourite Olympic mascot? Spalletti and star players Hulk, Axel Witsel, Andrey vice, great beer and a great environment to make the If visiting during the summer there is more to do than simply Today it is hard to imagine the Olympics without a cool and Arshavin and Alexander Kerzhakov are here to do – most of your favourite sport. Enjoy the Olympics and laze about on the beach perfecting your tan. There are dozens cuddly mascot to represent the games, the country and compete with the very best teams in Europe. Weather European football in style and enjoy world class sport of attractive waterfalls, waterways and lakes where you can the athletes. Although there is some confusion about the conditions are likely to be adverse, but that never stops in good company. chill out, go swimming or enjoy hikes with amazing views. appearance of the first mascots they seem to have cropped the home crowd from cheering on the Blue-White-Sky Some of the top attractions have to be the Agur Waterfalls, up back in 1968 and have been devoted fans and patrons Blues to victory. The stadium atmosphere is often at Mollie’s Irish Pub D-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MV- the Mammoth Ravine, and the White Cliffs. In addition to of the games ever since. In keeping with the winter theme its best on European nights, and Zenit is playing in the ladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 37 68, www.molly. scenic hikes, visitors can also go on horse tracks. There these games are represented by Polar Bear, the Hare and Champions League round of 16 for only the second su. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun are also some cool caves that are worth checking out if you the Amur Leopard. Each mascot represents a virtue or a time in club history, so you can expect a sell-out. Get 12:00 - 01:00. PASW want to get out of the summer’s sun. In winter you can go up skill that all true Olympians strive to meet. The Polar Bear is your tickets in advance! Mollie’s Mews D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 5, to Krasnaya Polyana, go skiing or watch the snow in front of the natural sportsperson who spends the long winter skiing The month of March sees the return of the Russian MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly. a log fire at a cosy resort. and tobogganing and is ready for any adventure. The Hare Premier League to Petrovsky Stadium. Following an su. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAESW Despite the region’s popularity among Russians, Sochi was is constantly busy and is your favourite extravert, fun loving almost three-month break from football, the home Molly Island A-2, Morskaya nab. 15, MPrimor- unknown to foreign tourists and expatriates until it was put and honest. You’d be amazed how busy Hare is, helping out faithful get to watch their team restart the second half skaya, tel. (+7) 812 438 13 03, www.molly.su. Q forward as a contender for the 2014 Winter Olympics – parents, studying, playing sport, singing and dancing. The of the Russian season when Zenit host FC Tom on the Open 12:00 - 02:00. PASW consequently, this resort city is largely untouched by foreign Leopard is a mountain rescuer and an accomplished snow- second weekend of March. Zenit is currently in joint first Molly Shelter E-3, Italyanskaya ul. 29, MNevsky influences and is a great place to relax and enjoy an authentic boarder who rides avalanches, climbs tree and loves good place in the Russian table, and must start things off pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 47 54, www.molly.su. QOpen Russian experience. company. Ray of Light and Snowflake are the mascots for the right against Siberian minnows FC Tom. Anything other 12:00 - 02:00. PAESW Furthermore, following the Winter Olympics Sochi hosts the Paralympic Games. Ray of Light is an interplanetary explorer, than a smashing victory will be a disappointment. Zenit The Office Pub D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, MNevsky most up to date hospitality infrastructure in Russia with over is courageous, understanding and overcomes all challenges. then goes away to play perennial rivals CSKA in Moscow, pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. QOpen 100 hotels, including major hotel brands such as Radisson, but comes back to Petrovsky to host Krylya Sovetov of 12:00 - 02:00. PALSW Hyatt and Swissôtel, as well as the latest sports facilities. Samara on the fourth weekend of March. Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya The city now boasts 14 new Olympic facilities, consisting Thus the strong and the brave will have three opportuni- pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest. of stadiums, skating rinks, ice hockey arenas and alpine ski ties, one in the Champions League and two in the Russian ru. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. trails. This is in addition to 30 new four-star and five-star Premier League, to support St. Petersburg’s favorite club PASW hotels, and 54 three-star hotels. So regardless of your price Zenit in beautiful Petrovsky Stadium this winter. Don’t Manneken Pis Moskovsky pr. 198, MPark Po- range and interests, your visit to Sochi should be comfortable, miss this very unique experience to see world-class bedy, tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard. pleasant and a great new experience. football played in one of Europe’s far corners. ru. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. History buffs will enjoy the unusual history of this region which By Chris Pascone PAGW has been home to the Cimmerians, Scythians, Sarmatians, Trappist Е-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevs- Khazars and Mongols. Although an iconic location in Russia Information about tickets to Zenit’s home match vs. FC Ural kaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist. today, it was virtually unknown to Russia at the start of the is available on the official Zenit website: en.fc-zenit.ru. ru. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. 19th century and only became Russian territory 150 years PTAEGSW ago after drawn out conflicts with the Ottoman Turkish Empire William Bass Pub E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Voss- and Circassian mountain tribes. taniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass. With a diverse culture, great access to the outdoors and See pages 62-63 ru. PAESW stunning scenery, the question really is why haven’t you The souvenir sheet of Russia: 3 self-adhesive stamps. for more on Sochi visited Sochi already? (с) Russian Post. Designed by O. Shushlebina

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 16 FeatureS FeatureS 17

Celebrating Russian winter Love is in the air 24.02 Monday – 02.03 Sunday February is the coldest month in Russia and after three or Russia’s Northern Capital is filled to the brim with romantic Maslenitsa Charity Dinner Maslenitsa is an ancient pagan festival which has been merged four months of dark days and cloudy weather we all need a hotspots. The city did produce Pushkin, Russia’s greatest 26.02 Wednesday reason to celebrate. Fortunately in Russia there are plenty love poet, after all. Even the most hard-hearted and cynical into Orthodox tradition and celebrates the end of winter and the arrival of spring. It lasts from February 24 to March 2 The Life Line Charity Fund and the Talion Imperial Hotel of reasons to get together with friends and celebrate life in human cannot fail to be moved by the city’s innate romance (Nevsky pr. 15) will be holding their annual Maslenitsa general. The celebratory season kicks off in romantic style on a trip to wintry St. Petersburg. Any season can be the and is sometimes known in other countries as Mardi Gras or Carnival. In Russia it celebrates the last week before lent and pancake evening. The evening includes a special cultural with Valentine’s Day a day for couples to celebrate their love season of romance in this city. We’ve compiled our list of the programme including a master class for tradition Russian and for singles to celebrate being single. This is followed ten city’s best locales for a little amorous action. turns into a huge pancake festival designed to carb load the faithful in preparation for 40 days of fasting. On the last day dances, quadrilles á la russe, and a performance by gusli days later with the Day of the Defenders of the Fatherland You shouldn't miss the Winter Palace in winter. When dusk players (the gusli is an ancient Russian instrument using which is great excuse for girls to celebrate the manliness of arrives in the late afternoon, this makes for a fine early twilight of Maslenitsa, there's usually a union of pagan and Christian traditions when a huge effigy - representing winter - is burned. multiple strings over a frame like a harp). The evening their man and for blokes to get together and celebrate being walk through the museum. Wander through the Hermitage, concludes with a delicious menu of bliny by the Talion blokes with vodka, beer and the sorts of stories you don’t tell along Raphael’s loggia, taking in the views of the picturesque Imperial’s master chef Alexander Dregolsky. Funds raised the girls. After surviving these two celebrations, it’s time to and frosty Neva River. That there are fewer people about Russian Wide Maslenitsa in Pskov will go to the Life Line Charity which provides medication relax and celebrate by feasting through the week of Maslen- contributes greatly to the atmosphere as you can admire the for sick children. itsa. After this marathon effort you should be in fine fettle to masterpieces at your leisure and feel that this wondrous pal- Located just a few hours southwest of St. Petersburg, near Their special menu will include: wheat pancakes with salted celebrate the climax of the celebratory season, Women’s ace is almost yours (except for the grandmotherly chaperon the Estonian border, Pskov is a great place to get away from salmon and creamy horseradish sauce, gluten-free pan- Day. In Your Pocket brings you the hows, whys and whens of sitting in each room keeping an eye on you). the city for a day, breathe some fresh air and enjoy a walk in cakes, buckwheat pancakes with stewed beef and green Russia’s celebratory season. Ice skating simply breathes romance. If it is not the ruddy time to medieval Russia. Dotted all over the city are squat onions, rolls of wheat crepes with smoked salmon and beet cheeked glow or the graceful skaters, it is those first time domed little churches, most dating from the 15th and 16th 14.02 Friday with horseradish, pancake cake with smoked turkey and skaters who take to the ice in pairs and have to hang off each century, and the oldest continually functioning monastery, mango chutney, pancakes with white mushrooms and fried Valentine’s Day other just to stay upright. We know you have all been there… the Monastery of the Caves, can also be found here. Many onions, pumpkin pancakes with pumpkin sauce and honey; Few countries seem to ooze romance the way Russia does Falling on your behind may not seem terribly conducive to the features particular to Russian architecture originate in Pskov envelopes of pancakes with smoked halibut, pancake rolls and it is surprising that Valentine’s Day is a relatively recent whispering of sweet nothings but it’s a pretty quick way to and considering the violence the city has been subjected to, a la Bolognaise baked with parmesan, pancakes "Boyar" import. However, it is now widely celebrated and if you intend fall into your lover’s arms. There are a lot of ice rinks set up it is astonishing so much of it remains. The crown jewel of the with chicken and mushrooms, coulibiac fish puff pancakes to go out this Valentine’s be prepared to book in advance, in most parks around town so you don’t have to look hard city is and always has been the Kremlin, locally known as the with egg and green onions; crepes and pancakes with restaurants are crowded and bars are packed on the night for somewhere to lace up those skates. After skating we Krom. In its 1000-plus years, the Krom has been besieged honey, jam and sweet sauces. Yummy! of February 14 as couples dine together to commemorate recommend a mug of warm spicy mulled wine in a cosy bar. 42 times, attacked by Teutonic knights, Muscovites and Poles Guest gathering starts at 19:00, the dinner starts their love, and singles flock to clubs offering special pro- The islands to the north of the city offer kilometers of relaxed but stormed only twice until the modern era when German at 20:00. Tickets 3,000Rbl. grammes to bring the lonely and unattached together. The wandering. Kamenny Island with its exclusive houses and forces from both World Wars occupied the city. Given the For reservation cal (+7) 812 324 99 11. www.life- traditions are similar to those in other countries, couples manicured lawns is a lovely quiet spot. Elagin Island offers strength of its defenses, it isn’t surprising that culture and line.ru, www.taleonimperialhotel.com give each other flowers, heart-shaped boxes of chocolates, uninterrupted strolling amidst natural forest free from the the arts flourished within the city. Masons, painters of icons and greeting cards. usual city distractions. It’s easy to feel that you’ve left the and writers all developed and refined their crafts here. Pushkin city. On Elagin, you can also visit the ornate Elagin Palace, himself even spent considerable time writing on his family’s the first architectural project completed by Carlo Rossi and estate just outside the city. Steeped in history and rich in 23 February on weekends outside you can often hear swing or jazz music tradition and culture there’s no better place to experience coming from the park’s loudspeakers or a live band striking the particularly Russian holiday of Maslenitsa than Pskov. 23.02 Sunday up a tune. So if anyone feels like dancing… Festivities during Maslenitsa in Pskov (28.02 – 02.03) usually Day of the Defenders of the Fatherland No romantic city guide would be complete without mention- include a bustling crafts fair, folk songs and dances, troikas ing Potseluyev or the Bridge of Kisses. Considered the most racing through the snow, ice sculptures, pole-climbing displays The Day of the Defenders of the Fatherland was originally romantic of all bridges in the city, it crosses the Moika Canal of strength and virility by the gents, doll-making from the ladies a holiday to commemorate the formation of the Red Army near pl. Truda and ul. Glinki (C-3 on our city map on page 56). and did we mention bliny? Oh, the bliny. Stacks and stacks in 1918 and is still celebrated in many former Soviet City wide legend states that whoever should kiss while stand- of pancakes bought, sold and relished, which culminate in a republics. In 1995 it became known as the Day of the ing on the bridge will stay with that person forever and have a contest whereby participants have 10 minutes to prepare the Military Glory of Russia, during a trend for changing Soviet happy and harmonious marriage. Like all urban legends, how largest number of blini their hot little frying pans can handle. names, although it’s most commonly known simply as true this one is remains to be seen. Potseluyev Bridge remains The delectable results are then auctioned off to benefit the Men’s Day. Although technically it is still a military holiday, a popular place for men to propose marriage. We have heard Church of the Holy Martyr of Faith, Hope and Charity. Don’t it’s also a public holiday. Thus all men are celebrated, that the name of the bridge comes from the man who owned forget to stay for the burning of Kostroma and cheer on the whether they’ve served in the forces or not and has in the pub on the corner of ul. Glinki. end of winter! effect become the male counterpart to International At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter where you are in the GETTING THERE: From Vitebsky station, there are a couple Women's Day. Thus, you will see many beer festivals and city. In such a romantic city as ours, a metro platform, the of trains a day to Pskov. From the City Bus Station, there specials occurring on the city on this day. bread aisle in the supermarket, even the produkti corner are daily buses, and there is a Eurolines bus service from shop can become unexpected hidden pockets of romance. Baltiisky station.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 18 FeatureS FeatureS 19

Anna Pavlova - Ballerina Valentina Tereshkova – Born in a suburb of St. Peters- Cosmonaut, first woman burg, Pavlova is one of the in space greatest ballerinas of the 20th Born in 1937 in a farming village, century and also one of ballet’s Tereshkova received a technical most influential ambassadors. education after the war and Pavlova fell in love with ballet at she learned how to parachute an early age although it did not jump, which ignited her passion come easily to her. Her great for space flight. Tereshkova success is largely due to her was chosen for the women’s extreme dedication to the art cosmonaut corps out of 400 – receiving the nickname La applicants. Her solid proletar- petite sauvage from her peers, ian background and a father she took additional private lessons with the leading dance who died a hero during the Winter War gave her an excellent teachers of her day to overcome her difficulties in learning bal- background in addition to her other skills. On 16 June 1963, let. However, her unique, expressive style thrilled audiences Tereshkova, aged 26, was launched into space aboard Vostok 08.03 Saturday all over the world. No dancer, before or since, has travelled as 6 and became the first woman to travel in space, making 48 International Women’s Day Russian Women extensively: 350,000 miles in 15 years - long before air travel orbits round Earth. After this feat, she became Chairwoman You can call them the pillars of Russian society: the Russian was accessible! She invented the first modern Pointe shoe of the Committee of Soviet Women in 1968, was made On March 8, Russia celebrates International Women’s Day. One women. But most of them don’t stand in the foreground and no ballerina today would even attempt toe work without Vice-President of the International Democratic Women Con- of Russia’s biggest public holidays, it is second only to New (men always take this place). Yet through the whole of Rus- it. In 1931 she contracted pleurisy. Doctors could have saved federation (for world peace) in 1969. In 1971 she became a Year and Russians go all out to congratulate their women. It’s sian history there were women who excelled others in arts, her life with an operation that would have left her unable to member of the Central Committee of the Communist Party. impossible to ignore the infectious spirit of this holiday. Beam- sciences, sports and politics. We have chosen some of the perform. She chose to die rather than give up dancing. A moon crater is named after Tereshkova. ing men wait with red roses at metro exits and happy couples most famous to highlight as part of this year’s Women’s Day. linger about in the streets. See them drinking champagne, Marina Tsvetaeva - Raisa Gorbachovа – while the first sunshine after many dark winter months warms Catherine the Great – Poet First Lady their hearts and their relationships. Employers would be fools Empress Famous across Russia, Tsve- Raisa Gorbachova was a phi- to forget to give gifts to their female staff. Catherine II took up the work taeva left behind an incredible losophy teacher before be- Many clubs and restaurants celebrate this special day the that Peter the Great started body of work that broke ground coming the First Lady of the evening before, so be sure to mark your calendar and visit one. and made Russia into a Eu- for women poets. One of her in- USSR in 1985. She was her Women’s Day is has its roots in the (pre)revolution days. It was ropean power. She came to numerable themes was the ten- husband’s principal advisor first celebrated in Russia on the last Sunday of February 1913, power after her husband Peter sion between women’s private behind closed doors. Unlike in conjunction with the peace movement on the eve of the First III was removed in a coup d'état. lives and their public roles and previous leaders’ wives, she World War. The demonstrations marking International Women's Influenced by the French Enlight- she wrote vividly about the ex- attended public functions in Day in Russia proved to be the first stage of the Russian Revolu- enment, Catherine carried out ternal and internal battles she designer clothes and jewel- tion. In 1917 Russian women rallied on the last Sunday of Febru- correspondence with some of lived through. Anna Akhmatova lery. Her ‘bold’ behaviour and ary for their right to bread and peace. This demonstration was the leading thinkers of her day, was her strongest literary influ- active role promoting equality part of the movement that led to the February Revolution. Four including Voltaire. She wanted ence. Tsvetaeva lived through shocked the Soviet people, but days later the last tsar was forced to abdicate and women won to rationalise and reform the Russian Empire. She founded the 1917 revolution and the Moscow famine – in which her in the West it helped to give the Soviet Union a more human their right to vote. After converting the date to the Gregorian some of the first Russian schools for girls and a medical daughter died. Tsvetaeva went into exile in 1922 because of face. Diagnosed with leukaemia in 1999, she began to get ap- calendar, March 8th became International Women’s Day. It school to provide health care for her subjects. She was her political views and lived in poverty in the 1920s and 30s in praisals from the Russian people and fundraised for children’s is celebrated in every nook and cranny in Russia and flowers thought of a ‘queen for the people’, although she resisted Paris, Berlin and then Prague.During this time she supported leukaemia hospitals. She was also involved in fundraising for are sold by the dozens. Following the October Revolution, the any suggestions to modernise agriculture or improve the her family through her writings alone. In 1939 she returned Russia’s cultural heritage and fostering new talent. She died Bolshevik feminist Alexandra Kollontai persuaded Lenin to make conditions of the serfs. This led to the Pugachev Rebellion to the Soviet Union where her husband Sergei Efron and her in 1999 and was given a public funeral. it an official holiday, and during the Soviet period it continued in 1773-75. Catherine undoubtedly played a key role in the daughter Ariadna Efron were arrested as spies. Her husband to celebrate ‘the heroic woman worker’. Although in Russia development of Russia as a modern state. was executed in 1941 and she committed suicide not long Galina Starovoitova – Women’s Day is an official holiday, in the West countries attach afterwards. As Boris Pasternak said: ‘The greatest recogni- Politician less value to this day. In the West, International Women's Day Sofia Kovalevskaya – tion and reevaluation of all awaits Tsvetaeva, an outstanding Starovoitova was popular was commemorated during the 1910s and 1920s, but dwindled. Mathematician twentieth century poet.’ among Russians as she was It was revived by the rise of feminism in the 1960s. In 1975, Born in 1850, Kovalevskaya one of the few politicians who the United Nations began sponsoring International Women's was a great mathematician, a Marina Raskova – Pilot worked to help others. She was Day. The general idea of having an international women's day writer and advocate of women’s In September 1938, Raskova popular in the West because worldwide was first put forward at the turn of the 20th century rights in the 19th century. Her became the first person to fly she consistently expressed her amid rapid world industrialization and economic expansion that struggle to obtain the best from Moscow to the Russian political ideals of democracy, led to protests over working conditions. education possible forced her Far East. She did it in a non-stop freedom of press and respect to study overseas. She was flight with a completely female for human rights. In 1989-91 dedicated to social reform, crew and was made Hero of the she was a member of Congress making an important contribu- Soviet Union. She was also the of People's Deputies, the promi- tion to opening university doors first women to be appointed nent democratic opposition to to women in Russia. She wrote her doctoral thesis on partial as an instructor in the Soviet the Communist Party. In 1990 she co-founded the Democratic differential equations of Saturn’s moons at the University of Union. During WWII she formed Russia party and 1991-1992 was an advisor to president Göttingen. Her masterful work in mathematics made her male three air regiments consisting Yeltsin. In 1995 she became a member of the Duma, the counterparts reconsider their archaic notions of women’s of women. They are thought to Russian parliament. Here she opposed the anti-Semitic state- inferiority to men in scientific arenas. In 1883 she lectured be the first women in history to take part in military action ments of Albert Makashov and became a vocal defender of at the University of Stockholm and was made Professor of and they fought fanatically. Known for hitting their targets the the rights of ethnic communities and supporting the right of Mechanics, becoming the first female professor in Northern three regiments flew over 30,000 sorties, of the 240 ‘Witches minorities to self determination. In 1996 the Election Com- Europe. In 1888 she entered a pioneering paper in an inter- of the Night’ (as the Germans called them), 32 were burned. mittee refused her nomination as candidate for president national competition by the French Academy of Sciences and Raskova died in 1943 on the return run following a raid. She because she was a woman. Starovoitova planned to run for won. Her life’s work produced revolutionary scientific theories was the first Soviet combatant of the war to be given a state the presidency elections in 2000, but in 1998 she was shot Soviet postcard and gave impetus for future discoveries. funeral. She was interred in the Wall of the Kremlin. in her house in St. Petersburg. Her murder remains unsolved.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 20 hotels hotels 21

Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg С-3, Nab. reky Official State Hermitage Hotel E-3, Ul. Pravdy 10, Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 98 10, www. www.dominarussia.com. The first venture into Russia from thehotelhermitage.com. This hotel is located in the centre Domina Hotel. This boutique hotel has a subtle yet impres- of St. Petersburg with classical interiors and artwork similar sive entrance with a colourful lobby lit by a huge skylight and to what you will find at the State Hermitage Museum. The impressive contemporary chandelier. Tucked away discreetly furniture follows the traditional style of Italian masters and to the side is the canal-view cocktail bar Nove. In the rooms creates a sense of elegance. The entrance is grand with there‘s ample space for work, rest and play with large desks, bubbling fountains and bright light streaming from the cupola rain showers and gigantic beds. Q109 rooms (Room price above. The hotel is a convenient distance to public transport start at 10,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,100Rbl. Breakfast 1,200Rbl. and most of the main attractions in the city.Q126 rooms PTHA6ULGKDwW hhhhh (Room prices start at 11,000Rbl). PAGKW

Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg Radisson Royal Hotel E-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladi- D-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/ 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. hotel-stpetersburg. This is located in a 1730s building It may be situated at the foot of St. Isaac‘s Cathedral, but in the central city. The suites have stylish glass panelling, the Four Seasons Hotel certainly doesn‘t stand in its shadow. comfortable arm chairs and tall arched windows. There‘s the The newly renovated House with Lions is an extraordinary lovely renovated Barbazan Restaurant serving international triangular building whose exterior is almost as impressive as cuisine and the gorgeous corner lobby bar with it‘s Nevsky its interior. The Four Seasons is the epitome of class. The view. Their fitness centre includes a Canadian wood sauna hotel offers luxurious suites and guest rooms, impeccable and jacuzzi. Q164 rooms (Room prices start at 6,900Rbl). service and top quality amenities. It boasts an impressive Extra bed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast 1,300Rbl. PTHAUF� ballroom and a stunning bar, along with two restaurants and GKDW hhhhh a spa. Q183 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). Extra Photo by Ilya Timshin bed 2,000Rbl. VAT and breakfast (1,750Rbl) not included. Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from sokoshotels.com. The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and Grand Hotel Europe D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, a cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast un- MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandho- palatial hotel. Exposed brickwork surrounds the spacious less otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according teleurope.com. This palatial historical hotel has it all with skylight lobby with two levels and marble grey metal walk- to the information received by us from hotels for the original art-deco detailing to the exquisite, enormous bath- ways reaching from the lobby to the Sevilla restaurant in the period February - March 2014. In Your Pocket assumes rooms in the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and brick tower. This is a luxury hotel which stands out for being no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing. plush divine room fittings. Suites themed around personages, different. Q324 rooms (Room prices start at 5,900Rbl). places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg PTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh are gorgeously designed. The Grand Hotel Europe plays an 5 Stars important role in the city, with many famous guests, including Taleon Imperial Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiral- Angleterre Hotel D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiral- Bill Clinton, Elton John, and Peter Ilyich Tchaikovsky. Three roy- teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperi- teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel. als visited in 2011 - Queen Sofia of Spain, Queen Margrethe alhotel.com. The Taleon Imperial enjoys a stunning location com. This luxury hotel in the heart of the city caters to its II and Queen Paola of Belgium. Q276 rooms (Room prices on the corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been high-end business clients with multiple conference rooms, a start at 11,200Rbl). VAT and Breakfast (2,000Rbl) are not spared in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also periodi- included. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhhh the results are often jaw-dropping. The spacious rooms are cally hosts film festivals and a fitness centre. Rooms are cosy, impeccably decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and comfy and contemporary. Views of St. Isaac's are unparalleled Hotel Astoria D-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteis- Empress suites are the height of luxury. A spa on the top floor from their deluxe suites.Q193 rooms (Room price start at kaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria. offers wonderful views over the city. In addition to Griboedov, 7,000Rbl). PTHAFLGKDCW hhhhh com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral staircase, the hotel‘s Taleon restaurant does a reasonably priced the Rotonda Lounge offers afternoon tea and caviar, the Sunday brunch while the Victoria restaurant offers business Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg E-3, Nevsky pr. 57, Lichfield Bar where you can enjoy original cocktails and the lunches. Q89 rooms (Room prices start at 13,000Rbl). Extra MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia. Astoria Café where you can try traditional Russian dishes. bed 2,800Rbl. Breakfast 1,750Rbl. PTHAUFLG� com. The Corinthia is the largest five-star conference and busi- The hotel is steeped in history with the original marblework, BKDCW hhhhh ness hotel in the city. The entrance is a huge, elegant lobby and crystal chandeliers and art nouveau accents having been the rooms are stylishly modern. This hotel has been finished to a preserved, while the rooms have been given contemporary W St. Petersburg D-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiral- literal polish - the shine on those chandeliers is positively blinding! upgrades. The presidential suites feature art, furniture and teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg. The staff are welcoming and service is top class. Q388 rooms lighting from the original collection. A wide choice of treat- com. Impressive as the grey granite facade is, guests are (Room prices start at 18,150Rbl). Extra bed 2,380Rbl. Breakfast ments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based Carita in for a sumptuous surprise when they enter a thoroughly 1,330Rbl. PTHAUFLGKDW hhhhh salon are also located in the hotel. Q188 rooms (Room prices contemporary interior. More than a lobby, their Living Room start at 8,000Rbl). PTHAFGKDwW hhhhh encourages mingling around the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music. Sophisticated dining in miX restaurant and Symbol Key Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 D-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, signature cocktails at the rooftop bar are destinations unto MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kem- themselves with views of St. Isaac‘s Cathedral and the Neva. P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted pinski.com/stpetersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 is Each room wows with their signature W bed, designer decor located in the very heart of St. Petersburg, on the Moika River, and ultra-plush amenities. Q137 rooms (Room prices start T Child friendly H Conference facilities opposite the Hermitage Museum and Palace Square. The at 9,500Rbl). Breakfast 1,500Rbl., incl. depending on a room K Restaurant U Facilities for the disabled hotel is just two minutes walk from the Nevsky Prospekt and type. PTHA6UFGKDCwW hhhhh close to all major sights and shopping. The unique location C Swimming pool L Guarded parking of the panoramic Bellevue Brasserie restaurant on the ninth For hundreds more reviews of hotels F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms floor is one of the most awe-inspiring places in the city. The hotel offers 197 rooms and suites and hosts three restaurants across Russia and Europe D Sauna M Nearest metro station and the Von Witte bar with its log fireplace. Q197 rooms check out our website 6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi connection (Room prices start at 11,475Rbl). Extra bed 3,150Rbl. Break- www.inyourpocket.com fast 1,575Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDW hhhhh

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 22 hotels hotels 23

Nevsky Forum E-3, Nevsky pr. 69, MMayakovskaya, Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya Pl. Pobedy 4 Stars tel. (+7) 812 333 02 22, www.nevskyforum.com. With 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 39 00, www. Ambassador D-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 5-7, MSen- a bold, modern attitude, this kind of hotel deserves to thrive. parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskaya-stpetersburg. Lo- naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 331 88 44, www.ambassador- Rooms are generously sized and outfitted with individual cated ten minutes from the airport, don‘t let size scare hotel.ru. This sophisticated hotel is in a beautiful and historic artistic designs like trendy murals screen-printed onto the you, inside it‘s really friendly and accessible with diverse district of the city, near to the bustling old Haymarket (Sennaya large bed heads. Although on Nevsky prospekt, the Forum facilities. There‘s a wonderful fully renovated lobby with a pl). Rooms are spacious with tall windows, bright red carpets is nowhere near as loud as you would expect. Q29 rooms bright relaxing atmosphere, Japanese restaurant, the ever and large flat screen TVs. Sparkling chandeliers, a trendy bar (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl). PTHA6LG� popular Paulaner brewery and restaurant. Q841 rooms and the classic fine-dining Ambassador restaurant all greet KDW hhhh (Room prices start at 4,800Rbl). PTHAUFLG� you in the lobby. In fact the hotel has numerous facilities KDCW hhhh including a tour agency and a 16m pool and juice bar! Q255 Novotel St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ul. Maya- rooms (Room prices start at 7,300Rbl). Breakfast 750Rbl. kovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 Radisson Sonya Hotel E-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MCher- PHAUFLGKDCW hhhh 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located nyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson. just off Nevsky prospekt, Novotel offers a breath of fresh ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. The Radisson Sonya hotel- Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West air in both style and manner to the St. Petersburg hotel positively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one Pushkin Hotel C-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance market. The exterior is a modern rendition combining the detail is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bathrooms to via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 tower of Pisa and the Colosseum. The interior is modern the groovy lighting and the wild Swedish designer wallpaper. 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. This and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent Themed around Dostoevsky‘s novel Crime and Punishment, business-focused hotel has a whole floor of conference space to the lobby. The rooms are modern, and comfortable. subtle references to the book are everywhere from the carpet and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms, Q233 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra and furniture to the Russian restaurant. Q173 rooms (Room including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable bed 800Rbl. Breakfast 850Rbl. PTHA6UFL� prices start at 4,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl, Breakfast and well-equipped. Downstairs there is a large lobby, a bar GKDW hhhh 920Rbl. PTHA6UFGKDW hhhh and two restaurants; the reasonably priced Bierstube, even brews four types of beer. Ten minutes walk from the Mariinsky Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg E-3, Red Stars Hotel C-3, Nab. reky Pryazhki 30, MSado- Theatre, the hotel enjoys a quiet location on Kanal Griboedova Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 vaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 40 00, www.red-stars-hotel. (shuttle buses to Sennaya pl.). Q273 rooms (Room prices 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. Facing onto ru. Red Stars has done up their hotel with signature red start at 3,800Rbl). Breakfast (850 Rbl) and VAT are not Nevsky and within a stone‘s throw of Moskovsky railway dominating the decor from doors to bathroom tiles. The included. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh station, you couldn‘t dream of a more practical location corridors and lobby walls are adorned with graffiti by local than this well-designed hotel. The rooms are quiet,brightl artists.Centrally located with a 15 minute walk to the Mari- Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky and comfortably up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of insky theatre or 15 minutes by transport to Nevsky pr. The C-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) the hotel is the airy Paulaner restaurant. A great choice friendly concierge service, hot breakfast buffet and a far east 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. Situ- for those here to enjoy the city‘s tourist delights. Q269 themed lobby bar, along with the overall hip vibe completes ated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214 room rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. the package. Q54 rooms (Room prices start at 3,400Rbl). hotel is aimed firmly at the business traveller. The workaholic PTHAUFLGKW hhhh €€€€. PTHAULGKW hhhh guest is well-catered for. The rooms and beds themselves are also generously sized and decorated in a simple yet warm muted gold and purple scheme. There‘s a light and airy Russian/French restaurant with river views, and a slinkier lobby bar for later on. Q214 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Breakfast (985Rbl) not included in Deluxe/Studio rates. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport Startovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. Situated next to Pulkovo international airport, this is the city‘s first airport hotel. A modern design on the building‘s facade includes quirky windows in the guest rooms, designed for watching planes take off, a huge bright lobby and dining areas plus large and flexible conference room space. The hotel runs a free shuttle bus service between the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport termi- nals. Q294 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. VAT and breakfast (850Rbl) are not included. PTHAUFLGKDW hhhh

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky E-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www. crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. Done up in warm beige and brown tones the small lobby contains a round the clock concierge desk, a lounge with art deco accents and the reception desk. Each of the standard rooms have everything a businessperson or tourist could need or want, including a fully stocked mini bar. The beds and linens make getting out of bed a real challenge. The Mediterranean restaurant with a view of bustling Ligovsky. Q195 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Breakfast 990Rbl. PHAUFLGKW hhhh U menya zabranirovan nomer - I have a reservation

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 24 hotels hotels 25

Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden D-4, Bataisky per. 3a, Ask the Concierge MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, Romance is in the air www.sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business travel- Spring has not quite made it to the Northern Venice but by Please tell us about your- ler Olympia Garden is a hotel that does things right. Thick February there is already the scent of romance in the air. With self. curtains, flat-screen tvs and sleek Finnish furniture complete Valentine’s Day, Men’s Day and Women’s Day all falling within My name is Natalia Ko- the small but functional rooms. The mattresses were even three weeks now is the time to show your better half how nonenko and I am chief con- designed using NASA technology. The size difference between much they mean to you. Make this holiday season special cierge at the Taleon Imperial standard and superior rooms is negligible, so if traveling alone with some of St. Petersburg’s most luxurious hotels, offering Hotel. I wanted to work in a the standard will suffice. Q348 rooms (Room prices start exquisite dining experiences and packages including mas- hotel ever since I read Hotel at 4,300Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFL� sages and theatre visits, to make your holidays as relaxed by Arthur Hailey. The book GKDW hhhh as ever. Escape the cold and enter into the fabulous luxury of created such impression on Russia’s holiday season by celebrating your love. me that I decided to go to the Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-3, 8-ya Liniya 11-13, St. Petersburg State Engi- MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www. Taleon Imperial Hotel neering-Economic University sokoshotels.com. The third Sokos hotel in St. Petersburg D-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 to study hotel management. brings more Finnish style to the city. Rooms are comfort- 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com After the second year of able with stylish contemporary interiors. In the hotel you‘ll Valentine’s Day. What can be more romantic than a Grand Hotel Europe education I started to work at one of the best hotels in St. find the wonderful 1930s-inspired Repin Lounge restaurant candlelight dinner to the sound of a grand piano with the D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 Petersburg. After four years I began to work as concierge for and an Irish-pub style bar. Situated on the historic side of elegant surroundings of an 18th century palace? The 329 60 30, www.grandhoteleurope.com the Taleon Imperial Hotel. This autumn I became a member Vasilievsky Island, it‘s close to key city attractions. Q255 Taleon’s master chef Alexander Dregolsky has prepared a Valentine’s Day. For Valentine’s Day Pastry Chef Pascal of Les Clefs d'Or and it is a great achievement for me. rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. gourmet menu with treats that are perfectly matched to the Galette will create confectioneries that will be a wonderful PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh exquisite Spanish San Valentin wine. The climax of the meal romantic present for the ladies – with fillings made of lav- What are some of the hidden winter treasures in and comes with the desert entitled Romeo and Juliette. QPrice ender, rose, violet and jasmine. These fillings will be brought around St. Petersburg? is 7,000Rbl per couple. to St. Petersburg from France where they are grown next to The winter is a fairy tale which begins when the first snow- 3 Stars Taleon Spa. The Taleon Spa offers couple two romantic the Chanel rose gardens. Pascal will also make his personal flake falls. For me St. Petersburg’s winter treasures are the AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg C-4, Lermontovsky spa programmes to relax in luxurious comfort. Experience a version of the marshmallow flower which will be available New Year, Christmas, the Epiphany which is celebrated by pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www. range of indigenous recipes for health and beauty from Africa, at the Mezzanine café 1-14 February. A romantic evening diving into the ice-hole, Maslenitsa, troika rides, ice fishing, azimuthotels.com. This hotel is right on the banks of the Mexico and Polynesia including coffee exfoliation with baobab awaits guests on 14 February at the Restaurant Europe and ice carving exhibitions and ice-skating on Palace Square. Fontanka river, with many of the rooms overlooking the oil, moisturise your skin using cactus extracts and enjoy a the Caviar Bar. The menu, which has been planned by Glen impressive Troitsky Cathedral. More than 1000 rooms are Polynesian massage with Tahitian monoi oil. Cooper, who himself is in love, offers rich seafood dinning of- What are the advantages of traveling to St. Petersburg available over 18 floors. This is the tallest building in this part fering the ladies a delicious meal without the guilt of calories. in winter as opposed to summer? of the city and the new Sky Bar has panoramic views of St. The set menu costs 3,500Rbl per person. Meals can also be St. Petersburg is called the Northern Palmyra as it is par- Petersburg, supported with modern design and conference ordered à la carte. The desert, Wounded Chocolate Heart, ticularly beautiful when covered in snow. Snow changes spaces. They have a wonderful breakfast and the restaurant is also available on Valentine’s Day at the Mezzanine Café. the city in its own way. The decreased number of tourists serves great pizzas. Q1037 rooms (Room prices start at makes the city quieter and more intimate. The Nutcracker 2,400Rbl). HALGKW hhh Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg Suite is performed only in winter and is one of the best D-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) performances in St. Petersburg. IBIS St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel. Valentine’s Day. Celebrate your love at the Four Seasons What is a must-do for visitors in winter time in Russia? com/6157. Ibis is marketed for those in search of reason- on February 14 and 15 with a seven course gourmet meal. There are a lot of sights in Russia which are world famous ably priced accommodation. With a central location, brand Those who want to enjoy a meal in the lovely environment and should be visited any time of the year. In St. Petersburg spanking new decor, international standard service levels and of the Sintoho restaurant and then enjoy the evening at the the Hermitage Museum, St. Isaac’s Cathedral, the Peter and a restaurant downstairs, this is a great option at very reason- theatre can choose an additional package which will deliver Paul Fortress are must see locations but the most beautiful able rates. Q221 rooms (Room prices start at 2,900Rbl). them to the Mikhailovsky Theatre to see the Nacho Duato and charming places in winter time are Tsarskoe Selo and Breakfast 480Rbl. PHAULGKW hhh ballets. The meal is 6,000Rbl per person and the theatre Pavlovsk with their splendid palaces and snow-covered Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 package is 20,000Rbl per person. Or visit the Tea Lounge and parks. Here visitors can take the famous Troika sledge D-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) enjoy On an evening in Roma with an exquisite five course meal rides. To add a really Russian flavour to your visit you must Hostels 812 335 91 11, ww.kempinski.com/stpetersburg prepared by chef Anthony Genovese and Andrea Accordi and try a banya. At the Taleon Imperial Hotel we have our own Cubahostel D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky Valentine's Day. Surprise your special someone with enjoy an evening of fine food and classic Italian jazz. The eve- banya complex with a professional bathers and masseurs. pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. With the romantic getaway to the top floor Bellevue Brasserie ning costs 5,000Rbl. At the Percorso restaurant you can relax an almost unbeatable location just behind Kazan Cathedral, restaurant. Surrounded by the famous landmarks of St with a romantic five course meal, for 4,500Rbl per person. What does the Taleon-Hotel offer its guests this Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The staff organise Petersburg, you both can enjoy an exquisite Valentine's Day Men’s day – 23 February. Gentlemen and Tonic is the winter? events including regular banya trips, and can also hook menu designed by chef Christophe Laplaza specially for Her order of the day at the Percorso restaurant. Come along The Taleon Imperial Hotel is offering special dinning menu guests up with walking and cycling tours. Enter to the right and for Him for a dinner on 14 February 2014. QPrice is and pick up a 007 martini on arrival before sitting down to a created by our chef Alexandr Dregolsky for the Christmas of the old-fashioned red British phone box, press 41 at the 4,500Rbl per guest. fabulous four course meal. The meal will be accompanied by celebration. This New Year’s Eve will be filled with the sounds downstairs intercom. Q15 rooms (Room prices start at Lovebirds’ paradise special offer. When you truly love some savvy tips for how to always be stylish and a cabaret of three centuries of music. A performance by Dmitry 490Rbl). PNGW someone, you always strive to surprise your loved ones with show with impersonations of all time movie darlings Marilyn Gaivoronsky, a renowned virtuoso pianist, who has thrilled something extraordinary that will make them happy and show Monroe, Kim Basinger and others. Europe and America with his musical improvisations, will Simple Hostel D-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 4, MAdmiralteis- them your true feelings. One of the most treasured gifts is Women’s day – 8 March. Dine the night away in Italian be the highlight of our New Year’s programme. We will also kaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 25 28, www.simplehostel.com. time spent together. Book a Lovebird’s Paradise Night at the style with a special meal by guest Italian chef Andrea Mattei have our traditional Kids New Year Party so the entire family Simple Hostel is no frills approach to comfortable travel at a Kempinski and declare your love in luxury, style and romance. at the Teal Lounge. The evening will be accompanied by an can enjoy the festivities. reasonable price. The hostel has a stylish, minimalist interior QPackage price is 150,000Rbl for two guests. Package is Italian Jazz band playing throughout the dinner and the ladies design and offers rooms for two, four and eight people. Guests valid from 10.01.2014 to 30.12.2014. Reservation upon will be offered a Lovely Lady cocktail – along with a pink rose, Describe your job in a few words. are offered a simple breakfast in the morning of fresh bread availability and advanced booking by (+7) 812 335 9111 or all for 5,000Rbl. At the Persorso, ladies come wearing their My job fascinates me. It is not just a job but also a lifestyle. and fruit and the kitchen is equipped with a coffee maker so [email protected]. gloves. Treat your lady with champagne on arrival and a four My work gives me constant development, and a chance you can stay charged throughout the day while sightseeing. Maslenitsa. Maslenitsa is a Russian pre-Lent carnival, a course menu. Make the most of the night by dancing it away to learn new things day after day. It is extremely rewarding The friendly staff speak a number of foreign languages and are time of exuberance before the strict observance of Lent. From with a live DJ. The Sintoho Restaurant offers the most roman- to see that our guests appreciate our work and enjoy their familiar with the latest exhibitions and are happy to arrange 24 February to 2 March, enjoy the delicious bliny (pancakes) tic of evenings with a cocktail greeting and gourmet meal for stay in St. Petersburg – it makes my work very satisfying. tickets for theatres, concerts and excursions. Q7 rooms at the Von Witte Bar and Bellevue Brasserie restaurant and 6,000Rbl. Pick up the Romeo and Juliette package and visit the (Room prices start at 650Rbl). PAGW take pleasure in celebrating one of Russia’s oldest traditions. theatre with transportation included for a total of 22,000Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 26 Restaurants Restaurants 27

St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Also remember to check your bill to see if they already included service. Don’t hesitate to politely ask for all of your change back, if the establishment automatically pockets whatever amount you hand them for the bill.

Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus Russian and Ukrainian Idiot C-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com. With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dosto- evsky inspired menu; then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal! QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€ PTASW

Levin D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. Conveniently located not far from Nevsky on Malaya Morskaya, Levin is a small restaurant with a homey atmosphere. Their menu - which is frequently updated - has a selection of fresh homemade Russian dishes and even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find something familiar and satisfying. They are very accommodating to foreign guests and the service is very friendly so it‘s a good place to relax and have a nice meal in a homey setting. We recommend you to book a table in advance. QOpen 18:00 - 00:30. Closed Fri, Sat. €€ PTAGSW

NEP D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a de- lightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you‘re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you‘ll find yourself part of the night‘s entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€ PAESW Symbol Key

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted E Live music S Take away T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking V Home delivery W Wi-Fi connection

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 28 Restaurants Restaurants 29

Cafes and Coffee houses Brooklyn Local D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 27, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 89 55. This cafe aspires to recreate the hipster cafe environment of the gentrifying New York borough. They‘ve got the moody black and white urban photos, comic book sheets alluding to Gotham on the walls and classic to go CUISINE SKY BAR cups, though the staff lacks that aloofness and are genuinely concerned about your experience. Best of all, though, the ba- gels are damn near perfect. They come lightly toasted, crispy and chewy.Q Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. € PSW

Cafe Singer D-3, Nevsky pr. 28 (Dom Knigi 1st floor), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 23, www.singer- Caucasian and Central Asian cafe.ru. In its place you will find a large café serving decent Baklazhan E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. coffee and cakes as well as classic Russian and European 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.bak- dishes like borsch and pelmeni. The staff all speak English lazhan.net. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches very well. Note the daily specials - every day they cook of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a something new with seasonal ingredients. Combine that market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The with a great view and stunning art nouveau fittings and food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative you can understand why it always seems to be so full. In dishes. Stick with baked goods, khachapuri and the like and the morning they serve a good breakfast. QOpen 09:00 - you‘ll be treated to piping hot goodness that‘ll stick to your bones. 23:00. €€ PTAGSW Q Open 10:00 until last guest. € PTALVESW

Smalldouble D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 26, MSennaya pl., tel. Khochu Kharcho D-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, (+7) 812 932 82 17. This tiny, non-smoking coffee shop on tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.com. Khar- Kazanskaya ul. has a huge selection of coffees that can be cho is a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, made for you using various preparation methods as you wish. vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve They also have a large selection of teas, homemade pastries, three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying candies, and cookies, and three types of sandwiches served as a warm and filling main course. This is not just a Georgian, on freshly-baked ciabatta bread. The friendly atmosphere is it‘s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, business centre “Arena Hall” enhanced by its open format where customers can observe and Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia even chat with the cooks while they are preparing your food. Q where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like tel. +7 (812) 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. € PAGSW their food spicy. Q Open 24hrs. €€ PTALVESW

Olivie D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last (+7) 812 945 84 72, oliviecafe.ru. Named in honour of the dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, famous Russian salad, of which various types are served here this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see in abundance. Olivie offers Russian and Caucasian dishes with the city’s Indian community trooping in for their banquets. the chef‘s personal interpretations. Classic walnut source QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€ PTALEGSW with chicken, delicate veal cutlets with green sauce, a classic Khachapuri or a mixture of dried fruit for dessert - it‘s just a Tandoori Nights D-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteis- small part of what you the chef offers. Olivie is located within kaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb. a five minute walk from Palace Square, directly opposite the com. There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole Admiralty. This restaurant is perfect for every mood, every city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style occasion and every company. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€ fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and PTAGSW mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori-specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly Asian and Indian recommended - especially the peshwari naan. From now on you King Pong D-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteiskaya, can also try a truly authentic Indian beer Kingfisher, Indian Rum tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong.ru. The bright co- and 18 types of tea. There‘s plenty of options for vegetarians lours, funky paintings and high ceilings make for a cooly relaxed too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% dis- Asian alternative to all the sushi bars around town. The menu count on the bill. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €€ PALVSW itself is mainly Thai-style dishes with scattered bits of Chinese, Indian and Japanese offerings. In general, we recommend filling TAO D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) up on an assortment of the yummy starters, particularly the 812 983 57 57, www.taorestaurant.ru. TAO is a hip, dim sum or one of their big brothy noodle soups. The mains are modern, Asian oasis in the very centre of the city. We still elegantly prepared with fresh ingredients and a little ‚European‘ remember the days this square was nothing but a worn-out, in spice levels, but you can always ask for some chili sauce to abandoned place, but it has turned into a heaven for foodies, add yourself. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. € PTAEGSW and we can say that the TAO restaurant is amongst the finest. The interior, where chic Asia meets Russia, is impressive - no- Tandoor D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tice the enormous wooden carved doors in the windows, they tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated are amazing. They have not forgotten to focus on the food as mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as well. We recommend trying their beef in black pepper sauce, far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 19 years which is something of a small hit here, and also their famous now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and wasabi prawns. The bar is well-stocked, so don‘t be afraid have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts to ask the waiters to mix you something special. QOpen too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€ PALESW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 30 Restaurants Restaurants 31

International Buddha-Bar F-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar. ru. There are branches of the glamorous Buddha-Bar brand in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London, Monte Carlo and Dubai all of which are frequented by the A-list celebrity crowd. The Buddha-Bar restaurant brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and a little bit exotic, Buddha-Bar proves popular with the cocktails crowd and fans of pan-Asian cuisine. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€ PAESW

and traditional Russian dishes, makes for a perfect and re- Romeo‘s Bar and Kitchen C-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsa- European laxed lunch or dinner after roaming the city. We recommend kova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www. Cafe Berlin D-2, Italyanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. their signature dishes, especially their ‘Pavlova‘ dessert, romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Near the Mariinsky Theater and (+7) 812 943 23 32. A new café offering the best cuisine, which is named after the famous ballerina. It is made from a number of new hotels, Romeo‘s offers some of the high- located on the charming little Italyanskaya ulitsa in the central meringue, and is so light that it can be enjoyed after any est quality and reasonably priced Italian food in the city. The city. The café‘s name is directly connected to Berlin - the amount of food. Sit near the windows to enjoy the view of décor and atmosphere are relaxed, inviting guests to linger world‘s capital of modern art which is known for its lively and the majestic St. Isaac‘s Cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. long and spend cozy evenings with their guests. A nice place energetic atmosphere. Specialising in meals from different €€€ PTALW to bring a date or have a family celebration (a children‘s menu countries, the café uniquely presents global trends in cuisine. is available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide The freshest oysters and mussels, homemade pasta, burg- Caviar Bar and Restaurant D-3, Grand Hotel Europe, assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide ers, homemade pastry, along with the democratic pricing Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains. policy are certain to impress visitors. Cafe Berlin offers classic 66 22, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Cool marble envelops QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€ PTALSW cocktails, with each drink having an individual approach: rum is the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel poured on the leaves of kaffir lime, gin - on fresh raspberries, Europe's elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as Meat Head D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2/D, MNevsky bourbon - on cherry. In the morning you can have breakfast or warm as the flickering candles. The Caviar Bar and Restaurant pr., tel. (+7) 812 955 55 59, www.meat-head.ru. is set grab a take-away coffee. In the evenings, the latest musical subtly and unquestioningly proves that the culinary arts also in an enjoyable wine-cellar-like setting with well spaced-out projects from Europe and the USA perform at Cafe Berlin. have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many tables enabling intimate conversations. With meat being the QOpen 08:30 - 06:00. €€. PAESW appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place. main player we ordered the strip loin steak. While tasty we You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the had asked for it medium, and it came out bloody. When we Soup Wine D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel. delicious Beef Stroganoff (made according to the recipe of asked a waiter about this, we were told it was medium, not (+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Five tables with bar Baroness Stroganoff herself), but only after touring your way a good sign for a steakhouse, where a knowledgeable staff stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. around the heavenly hors d'oeuvres, while sampling the vodka dedicated to the client getting what they order should be The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple recommended by the city's only vodka sommelier. Business the highest priority. Besides the steak mishap, the food was yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of lunch is served between 12:00 - 15:00. QOpen for lunch very good, although overpriced. The menu is quite diverse fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in 12:00 - 15:00, dinner 17:00 - 23:00. €€€€ PALEW and we tried scallops, salads and a creamy beet soup with bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and how easy goat cheese, fresh-baked breads as well as tea cocktails with it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it Legran D-2, Millionnaya ul. 4/1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. liquor. The prices are similar to a top Manhattan steak house, is definitely advised to book ahead. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (+7) 812 643 04 44, www.legran-rest.ru. Entering Legran yet the service and quality, while not bad, is not at that level. € PAGSW is like stepping back into a different era. The interior is taste- QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PALESW fully laid out in the style of the Italian baroque and the vaulted The Art of Eating В-3, Erarta, 29-ya liniya 2, MVasil- ceiling creates a novel and appealing environment with a real Paradise D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2/D, MNevsky pr., eostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 68 96, www.erarta. sense of space and luxury. The staff are attentive and service tel. (+7) 812 955 55 59. We weren’t sure if we would get a com. Located in the basement of the Erarta Museum of is efficient. Legran offers a European menu and traditional seat after being warned by a sign at the entrance that there Contemporary Art this restaurant offers a good selection Russian menu for those who want to treat themselves to full was strict face control, even if you have a reservation. But of traditional Russian culinary delights including fish soup, grandeur of Russia’s culinary past. The restaurant is a short we succeeded and were treated to a decent meal in rather pancakes with salmon caviar or spinach and homemade walk from the State Hermitage Museum, making it the ideal opulent, club-like surroundings. The menu is pure pan-Asian: pickles which is sure to bring out the true Russian in you, place to relax with friends and family after a day of culture. rolls, miso soups, wok dishes and deep fried appetizers and especially with a shot or two of vodka. The restaurant Additionally, Legran prides itself on its family-friendly attitude everything we tried was prepared in a timely manner, with also offers a range of more contemporary meals, including and organises many children-oriented activities such as cook- a good selection of accompanying sauces. There is a wide burgers made from Ladoga pie, baked potatoes with fennel, ing classes, on holidays and weekends.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. range of cocktails and the Mai Tai we enjoyed was good if over- smoked salmon and cottage cheese. The chef has special- €€€ PTASW priced. It is not a restaurant as much as an oversized chill out ised in Mediterranean cuisine. Q Open 11:00 - 22:00, Tue lounge, where the food is merely a background item, some- 12:00 - 17:00. € PTASW Palkin E-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 thing one needs to sustain themselves while sitting for hours 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they and people watching in the cavernous surroundings, smoking come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration a hookah, drinking sumptuous cocktails, and enjoying the Fine dining did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as café’s karaoke nights and occasional concerts. QOpen Astoria Café D-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PAESW MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www. treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat‘s home. The menu thehotelastoria.com. Breathe history while dining at the is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black newly opened, freshly decorated Astoria Café. The hotel in caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes To read about even more restaurants and which this restaurant is located has seen over a century of from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing five- history. This history can be felt inside, and not just through course special menu with specially selected wines, themed cafes in St. Peterburg check out our web- 8, Admiralteysky Pr., the old pictures of dancers of the famous Mariinsky theatre. around a different wine-growing area of the world. Booking is site st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com +7 (812) 945 84 72 The modern interior and cuisine, with a mix of trendy recipes recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€ PTAEW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 32 Restaurants Restaurants 33

Polyanka E-3, Kolokolnaya ul. 10, MVladimirskaya, tel. Russian Cuisine (+7) 812 777 92 10. This comfortable little café is located in Italian the historic centre of the city. The café offers an international Il Lago dei Cigni A-1, Severnaya doroga 21, MKrestovsky Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare of some of the best known and best tasting dishes from ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 602 07 07, www.illago.ru. Il Lago dei with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other around the world, with its own original interpretation. The Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant under the patronage scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that wine list deliberately includes lesser known but nonetheless of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzucato. The luxurious green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop-укроп) and it usually interesting wines from smaller wineries. Polyanka also does interiors were designed by Hirsch Bedner Associates and the finds its way into everything. breakfast and lunch. Keep your eyes out for the café‘s mascot sense of luxury is supported by a unique wine list, live music and Lida the stuffed duck who has a history all of her own. QOpen Mediterranean hospitality. Close to the central city, the restau- 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW rant is located on Krestovsky Island in the middle of the Neva River delta giving guests a beautiful view which is particularly Schengen E-2, Kirochnaya ul. 5, MChernyshevskaya, attractive as the sun sets over the Finnish Gulf. The restaurant tel. (+7) 812 922 11 97. Schengen is a small restaurant itself sits on the very edge of Swan Lake (also known as Northern with obliging staff and a pleasant atmosphere. Its high wood- Lake), giving visitors the opportunity to watch these magnificent en ceiling is reminiscent of a country home while ceiling high birds throughout the year. Q PTAESW glass windows give a you an unimpeded view of Kirochnaya ulitsa. Schengen offers a wholesome menu at reasonable Makaronniki C-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, prices and makes it a popular location for students wanting tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. Located on to spend a pleasant evening together and families. Located a the Petrograd side close to the Petrovsky stadium, Makaronniki short distance from Chernyshevskaya metro station, Schen- offers a Mediterranean menu with world class wines. In warm gen is close to the Tauride Garden which is worth a stroll any months the menu fits the location with rooftop al fresco dining time of year. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW available, revealing unusual views of Peter and Paul Fortress, the spit of Vasilevsky Island and the State Hermitage Museum Bliny and snacks Sunduk E-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya, in background - along with the domes of other St. Petersburg Snacks (zakuski -закуски) are very popular and include tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Sunduk is landmarks. The menu is changed each season with a winter all manner of pickled things (solyony-соленый ) as well a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly packed into two menu of 28 dishes having been specially devised by Italian chef as small open sandwiches (buterbrod-бутерброд). Pan- small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with memorabilia Andrea Dolciotti. During winter months the inside restaurant is cakes (Bliny - блины) are very popular and may come with of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The bizarre collec- a cosy escape from the St. Petersburg chills and offers a slice savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina-ветчина), caviar tion creates a quirky and lively atmosphere. Live music aids of Italy with great wine. Live jazz performances on Fridays. (ikra-икра), cheese (syr-сыр), mushrooms (griby-грибы) digestion while this smoothly running restaurant is overseen QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€ PTALSW or sour cream (Smetana-сметана) or with sweet filling by the resident cat who ensures everything is in order. This such as honey (myod –мед) or condensed milk (sgush- quaint restaurant offers a great atmosphere and stands out Palermo E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50, MDostoevskaya, onka - сгущенка). as being something different on the St. Petersburg scene. tel. (+7) 812 764 37 64, www.palermo-spb.ru. Palermo A dinner at Sunduk can turn into an entire evening of good is a cosy restaurant, a stone‘s throw from Nevsky pr. and ul. Soups and salads company, and good music. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in an Italian style Russians are big on soup (sup- суп) and there are literally 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW with frescoes giving you views of Italian beeches below. hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of dusk. The soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Teplo C-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 45, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. soundtrack of classic movies plays softly in the background, Ukha (уха) a fish soup often made with salmon or trout (+7) 812 570 19 74, www.v-teple.ru. In essence, this is a putting you instantly into a relaxed frame of mind. In keeping is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup place that lives up to its name. Meaning warmth in Russian, with the Italian décor, Palermo offers a Mediterranean menu Solyanka (солянка). Teplo is a winner. Things are done here subtly and well. The with healthy salads, plenty of olives and lean, clean meat. Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them understated homely decor, the thoroughly intelligent menu, Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic the delightful service all make coming here similar to dropping €€. PTAESW Russian salad is Olivye (оливье) - boiled potatoes, by your best friend‘s house and having a bite to eat in their carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either lounge room or on their patio or in their kitchen full of freshly Percorso D-3, Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Peters- cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, baked pies and breads. Indeed wherever you end up eating, burg, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy (селедка you‘ll linger, eat, drink and put off leaving. Q Open 09:00 - 339 80 44, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. Italian True Indian cooking под шубой) which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00 € PTASW to the core, this restaurant combines a magnificent interior is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled with great food. You want to see the chef preparing the food, or and hospitality herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot. Zig Zag D-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 59/92, MSennaya pl., tel. rather sit near the fire, perhaps you prefer a view on St. Isaac‘s (+7) 812 314 34 00. Unlike most places for fussy customers, square and cathedral? It‘s all possible here at Percorso, deco- since 1994 Main dishes who are used to grabbing meals somewhere in the very centre, rated with beautiful chandeliers, art and comfortable seats all Pelmeni (пельмени) - boiled dumplings stuffed with this restaurant is located a bit further from Nevsky. It‘s not in a warm setting. Staff is smiling and welcoming and happy meat and served with sour cream. Varenki (вареники) exactly easy to find, but once you do - you can‘t help but stay to help you pick and choose the best it has to offer, which is a 20 are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. to enjoy what is on offer. Entering the space feels like you‘ve lot. Fresh seafood, delicate meat, homemade pasta, cheeses years Uzbek versions (manty - манты) are slightly bigger and travelled in time machine back to the 1960‘s. Zig Zag restaurant and more. Combine that with a nice glass of wine and you‘ll often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali - offers international meals with so cold American-Nouveau and have a great night out (at least we did). Prices are more than хинкали) are huge and eaten with the hands. Scandinavian accents such as smoked then grilled salmon, gin- reasonable for a restaurant of this kind. Q €€€. PALW Beef stroganoff (бефстроганов) - a Russian classic, cream sauces, pickled beet-root or even any pickles that they famous across the world. produce themselves. All these things are nicely introduced with Testo D-3, Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel. Pirogi/pirozhki (пироги/пирожки) - pies (usually the burgers or finger foods, such as deviled eggs or fried green (+7) 812 315 64 20, www.testogastronomica.ru. made with bready yeast dough) stuffed with meat, cab- beans which are perfect for sharing with a group of friends. Their Pizza and pasta are what they do here in this novelty little bage, mushroom, fruits or even potato. Pirozhki are the bar also offers hip cocktails and irresistible desserts, which are basement bar, named after the Russian word for dough. small versions that look like little buns. worth trying. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€ PTAESW They make their own pasta, changing the menu daily and Kotlety (котлеты) - little meat patties usually made serve up the pizza with tasty Italian style thin crusts and with minced beef (govyadina - говядина) or pork freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red interior and (svinina - свинина). Frikadelki (фрикадельки) are relaxed atmosphere makes it perfect for lone diners, 10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886 meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and Stopka - Small vodka glass lunchers or anyone after a snack. Beers are available on meat and usually served with a sauce. tap as well as a choice of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. www.tandoor-spb.ru € PTASW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 34 Restaurants Restaurants 35

Following up on the right is the boarding and meeting house Mops E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 12, MMayakovskaya, tel. Shchastye (Happiness) E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, Rubinshteina Street of M.F. Ruadze originally built in 1863-1864 (13). Many (+7) 812 961 92 21, www.mopscafe.ru. The first Thai MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 26 75, www. different institutions were located in this building over the restaurant in St. Petersburg and the interior is truly exquisite. schaste-est.com. That happiness can be found in a restau- years, including the St. Petersburg Assembly of Artists, the Mops cultivates the appearance of elegant chaos. It has a rant is wonderful news indeed for food lovers. Happiness is head office of the Journal of the Ministry of the People’s terrace and three rooms to meet varying tastes, offering you a adorned with dozens of garden style cupids amid fresh white Enlightenment, the Arctic Society, etc. Beginning in 1981, it cosy spot to smoke a hookah or to sing your heart away in the boards and a trendy white interior. Comfortable benches are also was the home of the Leningrad Rock Club, the epicentre karaoke hall. The unusual interior design emphasizes contrasts situated in two dining halls and the menu offers excellent of the Soviet rock scene during perestroika. Monitored by and claims to be aimed at those with an ‘artistic personality'. salads, pasta dishes and various traditional Italian meats. the KGB, it was the first legal rock music venue in the city The restaurant’s Thai chef who produces authentic, unadulter- European cuisine.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 06:00, and legendary bands such as Kino, Alisa, DDT, and Akvarium ated meals with a menu focusing on dumplings, salads, spring Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW performed there regularly. rolls and soups as entrees and noodles and rice, wok and curry The next building is the boarding house of count Mikhail for mains. They also have delicious cocktails. For those looking SoUsy E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 11, MDostoevskaya, Tolstoy (1845-1913), designed in the Nordic National for a full Thai experience, the restaurant also has a massage tel. (+7) 812 947 35 72. It has an unusual format for a Romantic Style (15-17). Tolstoy was a hero of the Russian- salon in the nearby courtyard.Q Open 14:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu restaurant in St. Petersburg, offering a small menu of six Turkish War of 1877-1878 and the home was built just before 14:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. €€€ PAS 2 dishes, salad, soup of the day, and one dessert. You will be his death between 1910-1912. The design of this building is served a set of three original sauces (there are 18 overall on quite complex with three arches that lead through separate Pepper Moon E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 9/3, MMayakovs- the menu, and you can order any one you like separately) to courtyards from Rubinshteina to the Fontanka Canal. kaya, tel. (+7) 812 969 85 98, www.grato-group.ru/ complement each dish. In the background, they exclusively Ulitsa Rubinshteina is today known for its plethora of diverse Among the many famous people that have resided in this peppermoon. From the street, the restaurant looks very play classical music, and there is a string quartet every bars, cafes, and restaurants and there is even talk of making building is Eduard Khil (1934-2012), the Soviet crooner who small, but in reality its three rooms can accommodate more evening. European cuisine. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. €€. it a pedestrian zone, one of the few such places in the city became famous in the last years of his life for the Youtube than 100 people. The designers have realized an interesting PAESW centre. Initially an alley that appeared in the 1740s, it received sensation, Trololo. and complex idea with transforming walls: if you want to sit the name of Troitksy pereulok in 1798, before its upgrade to Two famous writers lived in building 23: Soviet science alone and have no one bother you, you can ask the waiter to Vinostudia E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 38, MDostoevskaya, the status of Troitskaya ul. in 1887. It was renamed in honour fiction novelist and philosopher Ivan Yefremov (1908-1972) fully insulate your table. The menu offers European dishes, tel. (+7) 812 380 78 38, www.vinobar.ru. Vinostudia of composer Anton Rubinshtein (1829-1894) in 1929. He and journalist and writer Sergey Dovlatov (1941-1990). as well as Asian cuisine which is so popular nowadays. Note derives its concept from the German writer, artist and politi- lived for a number of years at house 38. Considered one of Yefremov is best known for his 1957 classic Andromeda the icy display case of fresh fish and seafood. You can choose cian Johann Wolfgang von Goethe: life is too short to drink the 19th century’s premiere piano virtuosos and the author of Nebula, which tells the story of a communist utopia set far what you want, and how it is cooked. In the morning, Pepper bad wine! And right he is, although we would like to add to 20 operas, he also founded the St. Petersburg Conservatory in the future. Dovlatov lived in this building in a communal Moon serves a good breakfast of porridge, cheese cakes, that: life is too short to drink bad, overpriced wine, which is (his older brother Nikolay founded the Moscow Conservatory). apartment for several decades before immigrating to pancakes, and fried eggs. Q €€ PTASW often the case in Russia, but not in this gastrobar! We liked At the beginning of the street if walking away from the the United States in the late 1970s. Known for his clear this place so much that we hurried back to check it out a McDonald’s on Nevsky (for your reference: odd-numbered depictions of Soviet life and its absurdities, he was influential Sukhoe - Dry second time. The wine list is good and reasonably priced. buildings will be on your right and even-numbered ones on in samizdat (self-published works) in the Soviet Union, and So if you are looking for a modern, relaxed atmosphere to the left) is the former residence of the great Prince Sergey helped put Russian New York on the literary map. Polusladkoe - Semi-sweet sip great wine, this is a good choice. European cuisine. Q Aleksandrovich (House 1), the boarding houses of P.K. Ul. Rubinshteina ends when it meets up with three other Sladkoe - Sweet Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00 €€. PASW Palkin (4) and the duke G.G. Meklenburg-Strelitsky (5). streets (Zagorodny pr., Razyezzhaya ul., and ul. Lomonosova) At the corner of Grafsky Pereulok is a rather new structure, to form Pyat uglov (five corners), the only such intersection having been built by Soviet authorities in 1929-1931 in an in all of St. Petersburg. At the corner of Rubinshteina and early constructivist style by architect Andrey Ol (7). Zagorodny (38) is where acclaimed Soviet theoretical Olga Berggolts (1910-1975), a poet famous for lifting physicist Matvey Bronshtein (1906-1938) lived before he Music&Bar MOPS Exclusively designed the spirits of Leningrad residents through radio addresses was arrested during the Great Purges in 1937. VIP-Karaoke Club and deeply therapeutic: during the Blockade, lived in the building from 1932-1943. Thai cuisine restaurant Massages Facials Spa Rituals She called it the “most absurd building in St. Petersburg”. Restaurants on Rubinshteina street It is called Dom-kommuna inzhenirov i pisateley (Communal address: Saint-Petersburg, House of Engineers and Writers), and informally known as Fartuk E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, Best Traditions of Thai SPA Highly professional Sleza sotsializma (the tears of socialism). This is a classic tel. (+7) 812 764 52 56. Combining the cosy with the mod- Rubinshteina str.12 and Massage in St.Petersburg therapists from Thailand example of socialist housing philosophy as these dom- ern, the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (rus. Apron) is one of tel.: +7 (911)926-11-90, kommuna buildings were supposed to become the norm for those charming family-run places that make you want to return +7 (921)961-92-21 address: Saint-Petersburg, the proletarian idea of the communisation of everyday life. again and again. A communal country-kitchen style table and Rubinshteina str.12 Across the street at the corner of Grafsky pereulok (18) is the gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre of the room Theatre of Europe, also known as the Maly Dramatichesky and set the friendly and relaxed tone which is shared by the tel.: +7 (911)928-44-50 Teatr, where a theatrical museum and library is also welcoming and attentive young waitstaff. The menu is a mix www.mopsspa.ru currently housed. This building was constructed in 1837, and of European influences with a focus on Mediterranean tastes reconstructed in 1899 by architect Aleksandr Fon Gogen and the odd sprinkling of Asian spices, and the homemade lem- (1856-1914) who himself lived at this address for ten years. onades and hot drinks provide excellent refreshment. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. € PTAGSW

Marcelli‘s D-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 1 812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Marcelli‘s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting the 2 usual images of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), although it‘s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil - delicious. With an open kitchen, Marcelli‘s offers diners yet another possibility to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at Nevsky pr. 21 (metro Nevsky pr.) and ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya). Q Open 24hrs. € PTASW 1

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 36 Restaurants Restaurants 37

KwakInn C-2, VO, Bolshoy pr. 37, MVasileostrovskaya, Restaurants on Vasilievsky Island tel. (+7) 812 493 26 39, www.kwakinn.ru. A Belgian beer Beer Restaurants and Pubs Vasilevsky Island is located at the mouth of Neva River – one pub with a friendly atmosphere and piles of Belgian moules. Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., of the many islands that make up St. Petersburg. The Strelka The brains behind the long-gone Tsinik bar run this friendly tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. This British (arrow) spit of the island gives great views of the Winter little pub with an attitude that says - settle in, we‘re all friends island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the Palace and Peter and Paul Fortress and is the ideal location here. This tiny, bright basement pub (the yellow walls bringing world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior to capture images of these magnificent buildings. It is also a a lot of light to what should be a dark space) has one central whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings frequent photo stop for newly weds. bar surrounded by cosy booths with the odd tv here and there are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget showing the football. The food is excellent - the chunky Belgian to try the breakfast here - it‘s a great hangover cure and real Churchkhela A-2, Ul. Odoevskogo 33, MPrimorskaya, frittes alone are worth the journey. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, tel. (+7) 812 329 06 87, www.ginzaproject.ru. Church- Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAS which is as close to a real British pub that you‘ll find in Russia khela, a Georgian/Caucasian restaurant, is located near and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. Primorskaya metro station, on the 2nd floor of a building above Lapsha C-2, Kadetskaya liniya 9A, MVasileostrovskaya, QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW a mobile phone shop. There is a big sign so it‘s not hard to tel. (+7) 812 920 44 14, www.probka.org. The first thing find. The restaurant is welcoming, and our waitress was helpful, that grabs your attention upon entering Lapsha (Noodles) is Manneken Pis Moskovsky pr. 198, MPark Pobedy, tel. supplying an English menu and recommending dishes. They the designer interior. The white walls, trendy furniture and a (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Manneken Pis is have a great range of homemade lemonade, and tasty meals red scooter in the corner provide clients with a fresh, chic place named after the famous 61 cm. statue in Brussels. Manneken and desserts (the baklava cake is very good), as well as a busi- to have a meal. The menu, while rather small, covers Chinese, Pis means “Little Man Pees” in Marol (Dutch dialect spoken ness lunch menu. The food is prepared in an open kitchen, so Thai, Indian and Italian cuisines. The chicken curry, Pad Thai in Brussels). This bar looks like your standard European bar, you can watch your food being cooked. Overall the restaurant and dim sum are among Lapsha’s specialties. All items on the but just wait till you see the beer menu. Whether you are a is very inviting, with accommodating staff, and somewhere to menu are marked for their level of spiciness, but, conveniently, connoisseur of good beer or are looking for something a return to! Q Open 11:00 until last quest. €€. PTASW all dishes can be spiced to order. Italian pasta dishes provide little different Manneken Pis will turn your affection for beer options for those who are not so fond of Asian cuisine and a into a religion. This bar has a wide range Belgium and Dutch Grad Petrov C-3, Universitetskaya nab. 5, MAd- children’s menu gives picky children something to eat.QOpen beers with 12 types of beer on tap and over 150 types of miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 01 37, www.die- 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALVSW bottled beer, including Trappist and boutique beers. The kneipe.ru. This trendy beer restaurant with red brick staff are obliging and eager to share their knowledge of the walls and wooden furnishings serves a lighter version of Taverna Grolle C-2, Bolshoy pr. VO 20, MVasileostrovs- mind boggling array of beer, while the food is excellent. Q classic German food and homebrewed beers. The lager, kaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 62 58, www.grolle.ru. When heading Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGW hefeweizen, pilsner and dunkel beers are brewed in house to Grolle don’t expect it to resemble your usual watering-hole. to classic Bavarian methods, and you can even arrange Although named after the old Dutch city that is home to the Craft Bier Cafe E-2, Gagarinskaya ul. 6, MCherny- to have a tour with their friendly brewmaster. We like famous Grolsch beer, this restaurant is definitely a notch above shevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www.craftpub.ru. the sausage dishes; if you‘re hungry we recommend the your average tavern. They have an excellent choice of local fresh Beer-lovers be warned! 40 different kinds of beer can be found metre-long Thuringer sausage. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. fish on their large menu and a whopping bronze mangal (grill) in Craft on tap, more than anywhere else in St. Petersburg. And €€. PTAEBSW where you can order fresh shashlik and the like. The huge win- not only the well-known kinds, but also Craft‘s special Russian dows give you a nice view of this upgraded area on Vasilyevsky brew. Owner Sergey takes specific pride in having four different Island and this place is a convenient stop when strolling around kinds of lager available that he specially made based on his own the historic neighbourhood. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTESW favourites from Russia, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and Bringing In The Beer other countries he has visited in search of exotic examples of his Wild Duck B-2, 7-ya liniya 72/17, MVasileostrovskaya, favourite beverage. The bar itself is located a short walk from If you are looking for a beer with culture you can taste tel. (+7) 812 323 80 88, www.wildduck.su. Any place that the Summer Garden and well worth a visit. And one more thing. you can’t beat a Belgium brew. Belgium beer is older than has an actual live duck walking around cannot be bad. Luckily, This is the Olympics-free bar how they call it. So if you are not the country itself. The first brews were made by Cister- it is a tame one and it only ads to the already warm and cosy interested in sports or just don‘t like to be surrounded by crazy cian monks at the time of the First Crusade at the end interior of the Wild Duck pub. This place does what it has to sport fans, Craft is the perfect place. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, of the 11th century. Back than the low alcohol beer was do and does it well. The food is good (a lot of duck dishes), the Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAEW considered a healthy alternative to water – something beers are cold and the wine-list is sound with a few prizes among which most visitors might well appreciate! The monks them. The interior is spacious and offers different types of seat- Trappist Е-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya, brewed the beer to support their monasteries. ing, the middle room is really impressive, with the fireplace, the tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Cafe Trap- The history of modern Belgium brews begins in the wooden chandelier and a world map on the floor. They recently pist is a Belgian pub that prides itself in good beer, good food 17th century when the abbot at La Trappe Monastery celebrated their two-year anniversary and we can only hope and good service. Trappists are an order of Catholic monks who in France decided the Cistercian’s were becoming too it keeps up for many years to come. Wild Duck is located a live by strict rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries libertine and set down a strict code for brewing beer short walk from Vasilevsky metro station and works well as a in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled with beer and staying seriously devout. With the French Revolu- restaurant or as a great place to grab a few beers with some options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl, Trappist is tion many of these devout and devoted brewers fled finger-food while watching soccer. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, definitely a beer place. However, don’t expect to find any Baltika to Belgium – where beer is appreciated regardless of Sat 12:00 - 04:00. €€. PAEW 1 or cheap Russian beers here, as they have imported more than religious affiliation. The monks established a national 100 beers from Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. The tradition of fine beer. food is also quite tasty with Belgian classics and traditional Another feature of Belgium beer is that it is served in bar food to choose from. From Friday to Sunday, you can order a range of goblets and chalices. These ornate glasses fresh mussels delivered directly from the White Sea. QOpen give you a novel drinking experience. The beer produced 1 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€ PTAEGSW by these monks is known as ‘Trappist’ beer and is con- sidered one of the best brews around. The proceeds William Bass Pub E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, of all Trappist beers go to supporting monasteries and tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass.ru. Another local charitable organisations. So next time you want to treat homage to Russia‘s love affair with British culture. The interior yourself to some high quality beer, look out for a Belgium nods to all the usual British stereotypes with portraits of the roy- brew, it’ll taste good, has class, and you’re helping to als, big leather armchairs downstairs to lean back in with a pipe make the world a better place. and there‘s also even a bright red room labeled ‘ye olde curiosity shoppe‘ in the sprawling area upstairs. Bass brews obviously feature heavily on the menu, alongside numerous other real ales. Dva Piva Pazhalusta! – The location makes it a perfect place for a pre- or post-train pub meal and drink. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW Two beers please!

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 nightlife 39

The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find unique performances and eccentric people everywhere! Bars and Pubs BARSLONA E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 26, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 01 12, www.barslona.ru. This Spanish bar and restaurant has that sunny and friendly Spanish feel, but surprisingly enough is completely run by Russians - my what a difference a smile can make! As you would expect from a football mad country, match days have a really great atmosphere here. Their sangria comes in huge jugs and has plenty of ice and is understandably popular on hot days. The tapas is tiny but tasty and the Spanish mains are filling and flavoursome. The Barslona brand has 2 more locations at ul. Chernyshevskogo 9 (metro Chernyshevskaya) and ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 1 (metro Nevsky pr.). QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PASW

Chroniki E-2, Ul. Nekrasova 26, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 911 275 31 61. Chroniki (Chronicles) bar on ulitsa Nekrasova attempts to merge the drinking cultures of a mod- ern Scandinavian bar and a classic Leningrad ryumochnaya (the traditional Soviet-era watering hole). The stylish interior is very modern yet cozy, simple yet edgy, with white tiled walls, brass windowsills, gilded antique Soviet chandeliers. The bar gives you the a great view of classic St. Petersburg architecture on Ul. Nekrasova. The preferred order at Chroniki is, as per tradition at a Leningrad ryumochnaya, hard alcohol with numerous varieties of vodka including Russian, Finnish, Swedish and Danish variations. The bar also offers Crimean port wine Massandra, locally brewed craft beer, and a house-special cocktail Free Ingria, inspired by the eternal confrontation between St. Petersburg and Moscow. Q Open 18:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAW chequered tablecloths give Pirogi (meaning pies) its laid back cafe vibe, while the indie music and late open hours keep it in Epsilon E-3, Ul. Lomonosova 13, MVladimirskaya. the bar bracket too. Nothing rowdy ever kicks off here, this is Brought to you by the same person who founded Fidel on more the place for long chats over budget beer and pies and Dumskaya and club Griboedov, Epsilon‘s resembles your games of Jenga stretching off into the early hours. Q Open standard St. Petersburg dive bar: cheap booze, loud music and 24hrs. PAESW a lack of sufficient seating. However, the one thing that sets Epsilon apart is the choice of decorations. Called a “Science Rugby House Pub F-3, Poltavskaya ul. 10, MPl. Club” instead of a nightclub, Epsilon is cleverly decorated with Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 95 49, www.rugbyhouse. chemistry beakers, books and retro table games. Instrumen- ru. Bound to be a favorite among sports fans in general and tal music and a movie projector, which projects movies like rugby fans in particular, the recently opened Rugby House The Godfather, help round out the cultured vibe. If you are able Pub fills in a void in the city. The only place where rugby is to snatch a seat, Epsilon is a place you can sit and chat with shown on large screens and where the multilingual owners friends for hours, but if you want to do this, on the weekends are big fans. The bar serves regular and tasty pub food for you need to get there early. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW very reasonable prices and there is a good choice of beers on tap available as well. A fun place really, quickly discovered Helsinki Bar C-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileostro- by Russian and foreign rugby fans and it seems to become vskaya, tel. (+7) 812 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. the perfect home base for them. They also have some board This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of the games for you to play on quieter days. This pub is centrally lo- late 70s. Well, that‘s the case if you were Finnish and your cated, a short walk from the Moscow Railway station. QOpen parents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew 11:30 - 01:00. €. PAW liquor. Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage Finn- ish magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester style Terminal Bar E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 13a, MVladimir- and a cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the menu is skaya, tel. (+7) 812 939 61 23. The friendly owners here, no less a mixture of swank and substance. There are classic who spent years in New York, insist that this long, thin and Russian dishes such as kotleti, but with reindeer meat and friendly bar is a homage to New York and their favourite bar the cod is delicately prepared with sublime wild rice. Q Open there Terminal. We (Europeans) felt it was more like one of 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. PESW those friendly Spanish places where jolly conversations fall across beers and coffees along the long bar and out into the Pirogi D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevsky pr., tel. street. Either way, what they are offering here is all very good. (+7) 812 275 35 58, www.piterogi.ru. This bustling cafe- A simple but clean bar, chatty staff and a good mix of happy bar is one part bookshop, one part student hangout leaving regulars, plus quality music served at background levels. Our the rest of the ample space for those people in the city who only complaint is why are the beers so small? Q Open 16:00 liked a relaxed atmosphere and fairly priced beer. The cute until last guest. PW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 40 Nightlife Nightlife 41

Purga E-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, The Office: Nargilia E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 30A, 4th Clubs tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. There are floor, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 980 76 46, www. Dacha D-3, Dumskaya ul. 9, MNevsky pr.. This place gets two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river. nargilia.ru. Entering Nargilia you will immediately be greeted really crowded during the weekend but then it also tends to Purga I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with by the smell of scented tobacco. This establishment caters for be more fun. The later the hour the crazier the atmosphere midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet those who like the idea of spending an evening in the company with people dancing up a huge sweat in this tiny pocket of a leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and of friends while smoking a hookah (kalyan). Nargilia has two place. Don‘t dress too fancy if you‘re coming here for the night, dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and seating areas, one where you can recline on bean-bags, the you‘re likely to get beer spilt on you and the place is smokier bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table and make other where you sit at tables. The hookahs come in different than a cuban warehouse. Despite the mess the friendly and sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities begin. size and shapes, some look as though they are straight energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive. During the day QOpen 16:00 - 06:00. PASW from the Arabian Nights, others look like they have are the they have a few tables outside and the same quality taste invention of a genius alchemist. Nargilia has a small selection in music which is complimented by sandwiches, homemade of food, alcohol and tea but the reason people come here lemonade and free wifi. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW Cocktail bars is to smoke. Background music includes electronica with a Bar 812 E-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, whiff of trance. The minimum table charge is 2000Rbl. To find Fever D-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 19, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Weeknights Nargilia turn into the courtyard from Ulitsa Rubinshteina and tel. (+7) 812 971 18 88, www.karaokebarfever.ru. With this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip then turn immediately left when you reach the courtyard. Q the black glitter wallpaper, red plastic chandeliers and filagree a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. Open 24hrs. PAW curlicues decorating every available surface, this karaoke At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to bar is more than a bit gothic Barbie. From the drinks menu glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their Tsvetochki E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, to the 500Rbl songs everything in the joint in fact screams cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. A café-bar in the true sense of the spending money is being glamourous. That being said, the just (expertly) mixed drinks. Friendly, professional staff is a word. Guests are seated around a handful of small wooden sound system is quality, the stage is front and centre without nice bonus.QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. tables alternatively drinking pots of tea or complicated being obstrusive and the song list is truly staggering in it‘s Closed Mon. PEW cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and length and breadth. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PALEW nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal brick walls and the odd splash Daiquiri Bar D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky of colour with the trendy good-looking staff an added feature. Mishka E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Sexy girls Tsvetochki attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Named in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls the night in a laidback fashion so leave your bling at home. after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. PAW tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails profes- All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and sionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly good. handmade accessories. They‘re smoking Belomorkanals With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails Gentlemen‘s Clubs ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who‘s sharing space on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. with the friendly bartenders. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Striptease is big business in Russia. Russians have made 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW from poledancing not only an erotic but also an acrobatic act. If you want to admire attractive ladies and enjoy professionally choreographed dances there’s more than enough good places to visit in St. Petersburg. Extras like a lap dance, dance in a private room or a special request Live Music Clubs such as a lesbi-dance, shower shows, retro themed strip or whatever else floats your boat are available and they St. Petersburg’s live music scene is really buzzing and will try their best to accomodate your wildest desires. there are a wide range of live music clubs to choose from Golden Dolls E-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. where you can catch new and up-and-coming Russian (+7) 812 571 33 43, www.golden-dolls.ru. QOpen bands. For the better known names you should head 21:00 - 06:00. to the bigger concert halls such as A2, Cosmonavt, Rhino Bar D-3, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., Avrora, Dada or Zal Ozhidaniya. A2 and Avrora in tel. (+7) 812 954 56 95, www.rhinobar.ru. QOpen particular, are very large and modern clubs, with multiple 20:00 - 06:00. stages, and are great places for seeing foreign touring club acts and established local groups. If you prefer to step into the underground there are a number of great intimate venues to choose from. Fish Fabrique and Night Life – Keeping safe the GEZ-21 experimental sound centre in the neighbouring Pushkinskaya art centre usually tend towards rock, indie A night out in St. Petersburg is an experience not to be and alternative bands, while intimate clubs such as Dada missed. However, to keep it fun and keep it safe, there are also favourites for underground rock and punk bands. are a few things to keep in mind. Always keep an eye Avrora club E-2, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. on your drinks. Bars are often crowded, so even when Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru you have your drink next to you, make sure someone Club A2 B-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. doesn’t slip something in it. Likewise keep an eye on (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm your jacket, your wallet and any documents you have Club Cosmonavt D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekh- with you – getting a new passport really ruins a holiday, nologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www. especially if you’ve lost your wallet as well. Go out with cosmonavt.su friends, it’s more fun and means you can look after each Club Zal Ozhidaniya Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, other, and makes you a harder target. Take registered MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www. taxis and don’t just jump into any car. Being kidnapped clubzal.com. is a bad way to end a night out. And although it might Dada С-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 47, MSennaya, tel. (+7) seem like a great way to finish the night, be careful 921 424 39 69, www.dadaclub.ru whom you bring home – there are cases of people Fish Fabrique E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Voss- waking up at home without their wallet, laptop and that taniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57, www.fishfabrique.ru cute girl/guy they met last night. Have a great night out GEZ D-3 Pushkinskaya 10, MPushkinskaya, tel. but keep your wits about you. (+7) 812 764 52 58, www.gez21.ru

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 42 sightseeing sightseeing 43

Russian Museum D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A Hermitage dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibi- tions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. Y Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmu- Hermitage C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance seum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Peters- from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) burg‘s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. The famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along director of the Hermitage once said, “I can‘t say that the Photo by Ilya Timshin with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant‘s it‘s certainly not the second.” And with over three million St. Petersburg‘s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the Kazan Cathedral D-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky House museum which examines the history of the city and works of art and treasures housed in five connected build- most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe‘s greatest ar- pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain ings along the Neva, the museum can‘t fail to impress. chitects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. The city This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter‘s in Rome, Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which is one of the city‘s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to the more unusual Engineer‘s House and Museum of Space avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history. 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing you want to see the main state rooms and some of the Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it‘s a quiet place and and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the most popular artworks. The Essentials they don‘t like you to talk a lot in here, it‘s place of prayer best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own Aleksander Nevsky Monastery F-4, Nab. reky Mo- and contemplation. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services risk. Q The fortress is open 08:30 - 20:00. Museums open nastirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great, Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in 812 570 45 28. Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 280Rbl St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and (ticket valid for all museums). Audioguide 200-250Rbl. Y so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Rus- sia‘s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, St. Isaac’s Cathedral D-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAd- Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral. bread in the monastery‘s bakery in the afternoon (on your ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance). world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is Q Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Monastery 06:00-20:00. Daily adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by services at the Trinity Cathedral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Ne- Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 cropolis 09:30 - 17:30. the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood D-2, Nab. recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view The museum‘s art collection covers all of the great- kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 is absolutely worth the effort. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed est European movements. Lovers of the renaissance 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church with Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed shouldn‘t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room European centre of St. Petersburg, but it‘s one of the city‘s sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade filled with works by the old master is another must as most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Y are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church‘ Summer Garden D-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, 03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Tsar Peter the Great created selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated the Summer Garden, surrounded by beautiful iron fences, in The ground floor houses the museum‘s treasures of an- in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q 1704. Most of the trees and all 250 statues were imported cient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiqui- Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl. Y Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthro- from Italy. For a century, it was the exclusive domain of ties from the near and central east.There is also a number pology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab. people of the highest rank. Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to of cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right Cruiser Avrora D-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. ‘well-dressed people,’ but these days they don’t care what of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum. MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.aurora. kunstkamera.ru. St. Petersburg‘s oldest museum is also its you wear. These statues have seen it all. There’s a display The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the org.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was of twelve funky handturned iron chairs positioned in a circle, throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the each one made by different blacksmiths. QOpen 10:00 - room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission free. Y parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix Take note that most museum ticket offices different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected close one hour before the official closing enter the museum just after the ticket offices).QOpen Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, on their worldly travels. Peter‘s Anatomical Collection with its time. Also remember most museums ask 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admis- mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the you to buy an extra photography ticket if you sion 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself! Q crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of would like to take photos or videos 812 571 84 46. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 44 sightseeing sightseeing 45

Troitsky Cathedral D-4, Iz- State Museum of Political History of Russia D-2, Churches and Monasteries mailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhno- Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.), Russian Vodka Museum Chesma Church Ul. Lensoveta 12, MMoskovskaya, logichesky Institut, tel. (+7) MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithis- tel. (+7) 812 373 61 14, www.chesma.spb.ru. When 812 251 89 27. Although in tory.ru. The State Museum of the Political History of Russia Russian Vodka Mu- a messenger told Empress Catherine the Great about the need of some serious recon- is the successor to the Revolution Museum. It is housed seum C-3, Konnogvar- Russian victory over the Turkish Fleet at the Bay of Chesma, struction, this cathedral still in two historic buildings of the modern era: the mansions deisky bul. 4, MNevsky she immediately decided to have a church built on the spot manages to impress because of the ballerina M. Kshesinskaya, and baron V. Brandt. The pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 she was standing. Ten years later, in 1780, the foreign looking, of its vastness and big blue new exposition ‘Man and Power in Russia in the XIX-XXI 64 22, www.vodka- white and red striped building was finished. Across from the domes which overlook the Centuries’ is devoted to the relationship between man museum.su. This small church stands the neo-gothic Chesma palace. It served as a nearby Fontanka canal and a and the state at the crucial moments in the history of the museum presents the long stopping ground for Catherine on her way to Tsarskoye Selo. (clothing) market. The cathe- country. The period of the revolution between 1917 and history of Russia’s national It was also where Rasputin was laid in state after his murder. dral can hold up to 3000 people simultaneously. Inside look out 1922 is presented in the exposition ‘February of 1917. The drink, from 12th Century Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00 (except Mon). for a special column, made of the iron of captured rifles during Breakdown of the Monarchy’, as well as the memorial rooms peasants through to 20th Sat services 10:00, 18:00. the Russian-Turkey war in 1877-1878. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. ‘Lenin’s Study’ and ‘Room of the Secretariat of the Central Century presidents. Display Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00. Committee of Bolshevik Party in 1917’. The exposition ‘The cases full of vodka bottles Smolny Cathedral F-2, Soviet Epoch: Between Utopia and Reality’ reveals images in unusual shapes, old ad- Pl. Rastrelli 3, MCherny- Vladimirsky Cathedral D-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladi- of that time – Stalin, Khrushchev and Brezhnev – presented vertising campaigns and some funny dioramas explain the shevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor. in documents, things, and reconstructed interiors. The ex- evolution of the Russian firewater. An excursion is recom- 710 31 59, www.cathe- spb.ru. There are usually crowds of beggars and pensioners position ‘Matilda Kshesinskaya: Fouettes of Fate’ tells the mended as the exhibits are in Russian only. In the tasting dral.ru. The view over the city selling antiques at the entrance of this striking onion-domed story of the mistress of the mansion. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, room, there’s also a chance to try out three different vodkas from this blue baroque cathe- church on Vladimirsky prospekt. The Icons on the second Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. and traditional Russian snacks. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. dral is worth the climb to the floor are worth seeing and the interiors are breathtaking. It‘s Admission 60 - 150Rbl. Guided tours for groups from 700Rbl. Admission 170Rbl. top of one of the bell-towers. said that in communist times, an underwear factory operated Smolny, once the centre- in this cathedral. In 1990, it reopened as a church. QOpen piece of a convent founded 08:00 - 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00, Sun 07:00, 10:00. Modern Art Centres Lyrical City to educate young noblemen Erarta, Museum and Galleries of Contemporary F. M. Dostoevsky and women, is nowadays a Art B-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. Literary-Memorial Mu- concert and exhibition hall Museums (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The Erarta seum E-3, Kuzhnechny with an exhibition of Smolny’s history on display. From the Arctic and Antarctic Museum E-3, Ul. Marata 24a, MV- museum is the biggest non-governmental contemporary per. 5/2, MVladimir- nearby neo-classical Smolny Institute, Lenin orchestrated the ladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polarmuseum. museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The skaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 October Revolution in 1917. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Bell-tower ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and Kuznechny spectacularly restored five story building is separated into two 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-converted-museum. It is parts - one a gallery where the works are for sale and the other Dostoevsky‘s weathered 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, a museum tracing the history of Russian modern art of the corner-apartment is a two ship models, photos, stuffed models of animals and artifacts. last 60 years. Some of the works and installations on display minute walk from the metro. St. Nicholas Cathedral C-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, Above the displays hang a series of beautiful paintings of snowy are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone interested The museum is divided into MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikols- landscapes, seascapes, and scenes of expedition sites and in new Russian art swooning. The passionate curators are two sections: literary and kiysobor.ru. Built between 1753 and 1762, this blue and native wildlife. The first floor is dedicated to the Arctic while the constantly updating their collection by travelling across Rus- memorial (his apartment white cathedral is one of St. Petersburg’s most beautiful. In upper level (up several hidden flights of stairs at the entrance) sia to find unknown future stars and track down old favourites and belongings). The audio- the 18th century, this part of town was the sailors’ quarter, is all about the Antarctic. Though the signs are in Russian, the from all periods and streams of the Russian contemporary guide will enrich the experi- which is why the cathedral was named after Nicholas - the quirky museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in the topic movement. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission ence and lessen confusion. Displays include newspaper patron saint of sailors, and why locals sometimes call it ‘the and seeing stuffed penguins, polar bears and walruses. The 300Rbl. Guided tours in for up to 25 people 3,000Rbl per articles that inspired him and photographs of the house sailor’s church.’ The two-storey Baroque building has low special treat is a dated but effective simulation of the northern group by prior arrangement. Audioguide 100Rbl. Y where The Brothers Karamazov story is set. Also gives ceilings and a warm and inviting interior. At the church gates lights. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, fascinating biographical details about his arrest and exile. on the Kryukov canal, there is an impressive four-story bell Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl. Whether you are interested in Dostoevsky‘s brave character, tower. Q Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, turbulent life, or amazing work, this museum is certainly the 18:00. Admission free. Museum of Soviet arcade machines D-2, Konyush- premium place to go. On weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977 ennaya pl. 2B, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 981 185 56 35, 43 00. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. www.15kop.ru. This ‘museum’ highlights a part of Soviet Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl. St. Petersburg City Card Russia you would never thought existed – arcade games. The Audioguide 100-170Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people museum consists of a range of games dating to the late 1970s from 1,550Rbl per group, should be booked in advance by Where ever you see this logo and 80s. Many of these appear to have been western coun- phone (+7) 812 571 40 31. Y Y, it means you can get a dis- terparts. There are a couple of different shooting and sniper count or a free entrance at this games. There is car racing, table hockey and submarine games Literature Museum venue with the Petersburg card. where you attempt to torpedo ships. This is an interesting place C-2, Nab. Makarova 4, Petersburg Card provides tour- to stop by and explore, especially if you want to reminisce about MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) ists with free entrance and the good old 1980s or curious about what you missed out. 812 328 05 02, www. discounts to many things this city has to offer, including The entrance is through a passageway into a courtyard from pushkinskijdom.ru. Known museums, some restaurants, hotels, and shops (the full Kanal Griboedova. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Admission 350Rbl. Loft Rizzordi Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel. as the Pushkin House, this list can be found on the website and in the guidebook (in (+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This 4000 square museum preserves some English and Russian) which comes with the card). It’s also Russian Etnographic Museum E-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya meter loft is located in a spectacular old building made of red real literary treasures. As a ‘Podorozhnik’ travel card with 4 free journeys (money 4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www. bricks - a splendid example of architecture of the second half well as works by Great Rus- can be added later on as well), which is valid for 3 years! ethnomuseum.ru. Wanting to get deeper in touch with the of the 19th century. This building is part of the Kalinkinsky sian writers Lermontov and Petersburg Card can be valid for 2 days (48 hours) - 2,000Rbl, lifestyle of Russia‘s various native ethnic minorities? The Rus- brewery, one of the oldest breweries in Russia - you can smell Tolstoy, you can find the 3 days (72 hours) - 2500Rbl, or 5 days (120 hours) - sian Ethnographic Museum is the place to be. Situated right it in the air. They have a specific atmosphere here and you can writing-table of the great 3,000Rbl, and begins after the first visit to a museum or a next to the Russian Museum, the large collection contains attend different exhibitions of European and Russian artists, symbolist Blok. Did you know that the museum holds an tour. You can buy the card from the ‘City Card’ office in St. thousands of different traditional handcrafted items such art workshops and nice parties. Getting there: on Nevsky pr. astounding 12,000 manuscripts by poet Pushkin? The Petersburg, via the website, or in some hotels and Post Of- as jewellery, clothes, weapons and tools used by different take bus 22 and get off at Rizhsky pr. From metro Narvskaya museum is situated on the second floor of the Institute fices of the city (the complete list is available on the website native cultures across Russia and Central Asia. Q Open take marshrutka 1, 2, 6, 169, 177, 195 or bus 2, 6, 66. Q for Russian Literature. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, www.petersburgcard.com 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Sun. Admission 200 - 350Rbl. Excursions from 1,000Rbl 50-350Rbl. Excursion 1,500-2,500Rbl (10-25 pers.). Admission free. Special events 100-200Rbl. for 25 people group.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 46 sightseeing sightseeing 47

Further Afield Opening Times and Tickets Russia’s winter offers pleasures of its own. There is no better weekend escape than spending some time at one Oranienbaum tel. (+7) 812 450 52 87 www.oran- of the many parks and palaces that surround the city. It is ienbaum.org. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces a great opportunity to see the palaces without the bustling open 10:30 - 18:00, closed Mon. Admission to park and crowds of tourists, or wander through the snow covered palaces 70 - 140Rbl. parks. The snow and the quiet, the soft crunch of snow Pavlovsk tel. (+7) 812 452 21 55, www.pavlovsk- beneath your feet all help to calm the soul and give you a museum.ru. Q Palace open 10:00 - 18:00, closed first chance to prepare yourself for the oncoming year. If you are Mon of the month. Admission 200 - 450Rbl. Park open tired of being cooped up at your apartment or in the office daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl. Y then head out for cross-country skiing or ice-skating, build Peterhof tel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhof- a snow castle or snowman, ambush your friends and have museum.ru. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Admission a snow fight. Dress warmly and have fun in snow. to park 50 - 450Rbl. Visiting of palaces: 10:30 - 12:00, 14:30 - 16:15, closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Oranienbaum Admission to palaces 300 - 550Rbl. Find more informa- Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among tion online. Y tourists as other similar palaces, but it‘s nonetheless a lovely Pushkin tel. (+7) 812 466 66 69, www.tzar.ru. Q place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and Catherine park open 07:00 - 23:00. Admission to park While the gold rooms are fascinating both for their historical pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter the 50 - 100Rbl. Catherine palace open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon A treasure trove at the Hermitage interest and the skill of their execution, the diamond rooms Great’s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand 10:00 - 21:00, closed Tue. Admission 100 - 320Rbl. The State Hermitage Museum is famous for its art collection, are also an impressive display of opulence and wealth, and Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots Visiting of the palace: 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00 for however the museum also houses a treasure trove of gold skill. The rooms include a range of diplomatic gifts presented and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and guided groups, 12:00 - 16:00 for individual tourists. Y masterpieces dating back to early antiquity and diamonds to various tsars and include presents from the Orient, includ- rococo within. Menshikov’s Grand Palace hasn‘t changed a Strelna tel. (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantin- worthy of any safe deposit box. ing twenty items from the time of the Great Moghuls that great deal over the centuries and it‘s one of the few palaces palace.ru. Q You can book tickets and guided tours The Hermitage’s collection of gold artefacts dates back were a diplomatic gift by Shah Nadir of Persia to the Russian on the outskirts of the city that wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis. online or by phone. Tickets from 170Rbl. Palace open to the eighth century B.C. and traces the rise and fall of Empire in 1741. They include gold vessels for fragrances, 10:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. early Eurasian peoples as they lived and passed through enamelled boxes and trays, a lidded cup and a miniature Gatchina tel. (+7) 813 719 34 92, www.gatchi- the Ukrainian steppes, the Caucasus, the Altai and Siberia. table. On display is a remarkable ring used to draw the string napalace.ru. Q Park open 24hrs. Palace open 10:00 The first gold artefacts date to the time of the Scythians – a of a bow made of gold with a large diamond, emeralds and - 18:00. Closed Mon and the first Tue of the month. Admis- nomadic group that moved into the southern steppes from rubies. It belonged to Shah Jahan who built the Taj Mahal. sion to the park is free. Palace admission: 100 - 200Rbl. Central Asia. There art includes belt clasps depicting fighting The museum also houses a unique collection of 17th century Audioguide 200Rbl. animals, torques and arm bands. The Scythians traded with Indian jewellery and magnificent eastern weaponry including the Greek colonies on the Black Sea Coast and it is in the swords and daggers sheathed in gold and silver scabbards fine work by Greek goldsmiths that we have a few depictions and decorated with precious stones. Peterhof of these warlike people that inhabited a broad area of what Western European trends are also visible with rare examples Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof is now Russian and Ukrainian territory. Descriptions of the of works produced by European craftsmen in the 16th and 17th (pronounced Petergof in Russian) is one of Russia’s number Scythians survive today in the works of Greek historian centuries. They include pendants that were used not only as one tourist attractions. It is particularly spectacular from Herodotus. adornments and additions to clothing, but also as amulets. late-May to mid-October, when the 147 fountains are turned The Scythians were replaced Typically such pieces used bright enamels, irregularly-shaped on, but even so it is well worth visiting at any other time of by later tribes moving into the “baroque” pearls and precious stones of various colours. For year. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 region including the Sarma- the most part they were cut in the form of a step or a cabo- under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tians, Volga Bulgarians and chon. One common motif from this period is the pendant in Pavlovsk tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, Khazars. Each have left their the form of a caravel, reflecting the age of discovery. A pride Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to adding another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal archaeological traces behind. of the Hermitage collection is a caravel pendant incorporat- describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like a point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade One of the more exciting ing a magnificent Columbian emerald complemented by gold world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk fountain leading down from the palace and from there the displays is gold work of the and enamel. It was made by Spanish craftsmen in the late Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, park spreads out to the left and right along the coastline Hunns who entered popular 16th century. Another pendant dating from the same period winding streams and endless paths scattered with classical with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures folklore under their leader Attila who invaded the Roman belonged to the great English seaman Sir Francis Drake. statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded and other impressive stuff. Empire in the fifth century A.D. during the time of the Great The jewellery collection is con- spot. If you have active children who need a place to blow off Note than in autumn and winter months the fountains are Migrations. Hunnic antiquities include gold adornments for cluded with items produced some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The switched off and boarded up, so you should only come if you clothing and headwear, highly decorated horse harnesses. by St. Petersburg’s leading enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent neoclassical are interested in seeing the palace itself. The majority of these items come from burials in the steppes jewellers. The Imperial capital interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the Other museums worth visiting within the grounds include the of southern Russia, where an alliance of tribes led by the attracted craftsmen around Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating Hermitage Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little Huns formed in the late fourth century A.D. Europe as there was a rapid history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but much less house where Peter the Great used to organise parties for his The Hermitage also displays several interesting items dating increase in demand for skilled touristy, Pavlovsk is a great place to get away from it all. closest (and rowdiest) friends. to the pre-Mongol and medieval periods and reflect the deep craftsmen. St. Petersburg Christian roots of the Early Rus including icons, medallions boasted such masters as and crucifixes. Jérémie Pauzié, Jean-François Xavier Bouddé, Johann Gottlieb Scharff, Jean-Pierre Ador and the Théremin brothers. The imperial court and Russian aristocracy commissioned refined Plan Your Visit luxury items: watches and clocks, bouquets, rings, brooches and snuffboxes, the fashion for which endured in Russia for If you want to visit the gold rooms, book a tour with at the over a century. The traveller William Coxe, who visited St Pe- entrance of the State Hermitage Museum. It is possible tersburg in 1778, observed that the wealth and opulence of the to view the diamond rooms independently however the Russian court exceeded the most luxurious descriptions. The tours provide an amazing amount of information and for exhibition also includes the work of Carl Fabergé’s workshop. anyone who wishes to get the most out of their visit, it is While none of Fabergé’s famous eggs are on display there well worth organising a guide to show you round. are a few items that enable the curious visitor to examine the delicacy and skill of his craftsmen.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 48 sightseeing shopping 49

Pushkin Getting There The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Galeria Raketa Watches Tsarskoe Selo or the ‚Royal Village‘ was renamed Pushkin Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also Pushkin – Pavlovsk following the communist revolution in honour of one of its Galeria E-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. The largest it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only St. Petersburg. In 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and fol- shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: lowing intense restoration works Pushkin‘s many treasures away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot movements; including the hair spring and escapement. for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or are sparkling. be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remark- It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities ably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from 1812, what had become the Petrodvorets watch factory By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train sta- sparkling Amber room of Catherine‘s Palace to the quieter high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equip- tion (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. From Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. ment. The factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which you can bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied. theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. see on top of the Kremlin’s towers. For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to When with children, head to the top floor where there is The factory began producing watches in 1949 under Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or a huge entertainment area for the young and young-at- the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from heart. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer Kupchino metro/train station. space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum With the help of Swiss engineers, the factory began to be Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg reorganised in 2009. There are now approximately 60 on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west workers, (originally there were around 6000), still using the of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres factory’s original buildings. The factory purchased modern east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg equipment from the Swatch group in 2011, which improved proper and Peterhof). All the 3 towns are located along the watch quality; although a range of Soviet machines the Peterhof highway. indispensible to the watch-making process are still in use. By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You occasions. In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train eagle, a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From War. The factory also designed a watch for the Sochi Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Don’t Strelna. Konstantinovsky Palace Winter Olympics in 2014, with a different sport repre- forget to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want Once known as Putin‘s Palace, this palace is now one of sented at each hour. to exit next to the fountains (ask for Fontany or Dvorets the official Presidential residences. Historically speaking, www.raketa.com (fountains or palace)). the Palace‘s original owners were the Romanovs; however, Bookshops For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the Anglia E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, MNevsky pr., tel. Ballerina Watch get off at the Oranienbaum station. public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace (+7) 812 579 80 07, www.britannia-spb.ru. QOpen By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A The ‘Ballerina’ watch’s Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display Biblioteka Projector E-3, 4th floor, Loft Project Etagi, design was inspired by Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. The ride takes approxi- of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from the Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. +7 911 218 74 39. the world famous Russian mately 45 minutes. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 18th to the 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. AKW ballet and theatre. The 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter Bukvoed D-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 red stars on the ‘Balle- want to exit next to the fountains. (this is also an official government building). 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. AKW rina’ watch’s face refer to For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum Dom Knigy D-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 the ruby stars that were get off at the Oranienbaum station. Gatchina From the outside it may have the austere look 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AK produced at the factory of a military institution, but step inside and you can tell that in 1934, and which adorn Gatchina the Gatchina Palace was home to the Romanov family, though the tops of the Kremlin’s From Moskovskaya metro, take bus N431 or marshrutka the rooms are not as luxurious as the palace in Pushkin. The Shopping centres towers. Raketa watches K18; or from Baltiisky station, take a train to Gatchina palace has various temporary and permanent exhibitions DLT Department store D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. have different designs on station, which is also (confusingly) called Baltiisky. including a weaponry display and the church at the top of 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, the back, and the ‘Balle- Gatchina‘s main pedestrian mall is also worth seeing. But www.dlt.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW rina’ watch features a unique bird and floral design. There Kronshtadt the big attraction is the underground tunnel running from Eliseevsky Store E-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. are six strap options for the watch, including a genuine From Chernaya Rechka metro, take marshrutka 405, the palace to the ornamental lake (how cool!). Gatchina‘s (+7) 952 376 73 76, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. QOpen leather red strap, which matches the red stars, a white 406, from Staraya Derevnya metro, take bus 101, from palace was badly damaged during WWII, and restoration 10:00 - 22:00. AKW genuine leather strap to match the white dial option, a Pr. Prosveshcheniya metro, take marshrutka 407. work is still in progress. The nice leafy park with its many Grand Palace Boutiques Gallery D-3, Nevsky pr. 44 / black genuine leather strap to match the black dial op- brooks and bridges is a great place to stretch your legs or ul. Italyanskaya 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 93 tion, and a gold coloured stainless steel bracelet strap, have a picnic in the sun! 44, www.grand-palace.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. ALK which will delight everyone who loves timeless style. The Nevsky Centre E-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Voss- ‘Ballerina’ watch is the epitome of the reliability of Raketa Kronshtadt www.nash-kronshtadt.ru. The strategic taniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. watches, the beauty of Russian women, and the glory naval base of Kronshtadt was founded on Kotlin island in QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW of the Russian ballet. 1704. Kronshtadt is famous because, in 1921, its battalion Passage D-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 Babochka multibrand boutiques: mutinied against the Bolshevik‘s harsh revolutionary policies. 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Nevksy pr. 36, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 324 32 The government‘s response was to slaughter almost the Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK 29. Q Open 11:00 – 22:00. entire battalion. During Soviet times, the city was closed. It Sennaya Shopping Centre D-3, Ul. Efimova 3, MSen- www.babochka.ru. opened in 1996, and, today, it‘s a charming place to wander naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 740 46 38/(+7) 812 740 46 39, Status watch shops: and look at rusting warships, naval symbols and other re- www.sennaya.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALK Bol. Morskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) mains of Soviet naval glory. Krohnstadt‘s striking Byzantine Vladimirsky Passage E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladi- 812 717 59 39. Q Open 11:00 – 21:00 cathedral has an excellent museum of naval and local history, mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 32 32, www.vpassage.ru. www.status-watch.ru although it‘s only in Russian. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. ALKW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 50 Shopping EXPAT AND LIFESTYLE 51

In this section we seek to highlight various organisations one Russian Souvenirs Gifts and Souvenirs can join, fun activities for kids and the whole family, expat Art Boutique Dynasty C-2, 6-ya Liniya 3, MVasileo- cultural institutions, religious services, and other items of Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just talk- strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 09 19. This is one-stop interest to make your expat experience in St. Petersburg ing about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking shopping for all your souvenir needs, whether it‘s a handful more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly well-developed and to take some extra special winter gifts home with you we of matroshka magnets for acquaintances back home or that growing expat scene in the city and we recommend taking recommend you consider buying some of the following: upscale, unique piece of hand-painted lacquer for someone advantage of these connections. special. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. AU Platok A perfect present for any Bosco Sport E-3, Nevsky pr. 54, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) Accountants and Lawyers female friend or relative. 812 314 23 37, www.boscosport.ru. The one-stop shop Avenir Group E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimir- These beautifully designed for official Russian Olympic gear and goodies. For those who skaya, tel. (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. QOpen and colourful scarves can lust after a shiny white and red jacket with Russia emblazoned 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. either spruce up the outfit on, and are ready to party with more than a months wage, Acsour D-3, Nevsky pr. 10, business centre Geneum, of a young lady by be- Bosco is your shop. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA 4th floor, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 44 24, ing worn around the neck www.acsour.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. or serve to make your Chocolate Museum D-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteis- Baker & McKenzie C-2, Bolloev Business Center, Business associations grandma look even cuter kaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 303 90 SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky This designer-chocolate boutique, tucked in the basement 00, www.bakermckenzie.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Association for North-Western Russia D-3, Nevsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from of the Stroganov palace, has handmade chocolates and Closed Sat, Sun. pr. 21, off. 506, tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very chocolate sculptures. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. AS EMG (Accountants & Consultants) D-4, 10-ya Kras- QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole noarmeiskaya 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring. Exclusive Amber Collection D-3, Passage shopping 313 77 81, www.emg-russia.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. centre, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 Closed Sat, Sun. Relocation and Supplies Shapka ushanka 961 35 14, www.amber-collection.ru. Here you can find Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants) AAA-Logistics E-3, Ul. Sofiskaya 6, MVolkovskaya, If you want to look as all manner of products made from natural amber (rings, D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. tel. (+7) 812 921 412 02 51, www.aaa-russia.com. much a tourist as pos- necklaces, bracelets, earrings and much more). Also on sale (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. QOpen 08:30 - QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. sible during your time in are icons, paintings and amber containing fossils. QOpen 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Russia, but cool beyond 10:00 - 21:00. A KPMG E-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) belief back home, then of 812 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Cultural Centres and Libraries course you need to get a Closed Sat, Sun. American Corners E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46, Russian fur hat or shapka Pepeliaev, Goltsblat & Partners E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 60 32, www. ushanka with ear flaps. Anything with red stars on earns 54, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 60 10, www. amcorners.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. you double spot-the-tourist points. Most of the things you pgplaw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. British Book Centre D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library can get in markets are made from fake fur, but real fur PricewaterhouseCoopers D-3, Per. Grivtsova 4A, im. Lermontova), MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 69 69, www.pwc.com. 43, www.britania-spb.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat fur shops for a hefty price. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. The Institute for Enterprise Issues E-4, Ul. Marata 92, Danish Cultural Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, off. Valenki MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 41, www.ipp.spb. 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki. Valenki are a unique piece La Petite Opera Gallery D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. of Russian footware that Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 80 83, Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik C-3, Deka- are specially designed www.lacquerbox.net. The gallery‘s collection includes bristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 for walking in deep snow. original icon paintings, decorative amber articles, luxurious Internations 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Q Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat They usually have no firm ornaments and a carefully chosen selection of original lacquer 11:00 - 19:00. rubber soles (just the miniatures meticulously done in both classic and contempo- InterNations is the biggest global networking site for Finnish Institute D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd basic shape of a boot) so rary styles. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. expats of various nationalities and their family members floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www. if you want to wear them with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. instfin.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed about town you will need to buy some rubber kaloshes to Onegin Art Gallery D-3, Italyanskaya ul. 11, MNevsky Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, Inter- Sat, Sun. cover them with to ensure that they don’t get damaged. pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 00 58, www.onegin-gallery.com. Nations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. Goethe Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSen- Made from sheep’s wool, it is said that they are so warm Opposite the Russian museum, Onegin has a wide range By becoming a member you gain access to the online naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/ and well insulated that you can wear them with no socks of superior souvenirs including a fantastic range of amber, social network were you can connect with other ex- stpetersburg. Q Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library on. In fact wearing them without socks is said to be good jewellery, crystal, famous Russian porcelain as well as pats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. for you as the rough wool exfoliates the skin. traditional St. Petersburg themed paraphernalia. QOpen expats and interact with people who may have the Institut Francais D-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., 09:00 - 21:00. A same interests. tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. QOpen 09:30 Vodka and Caviar Most importantly of course InterNations also host - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. They compliment each Pavloposadskie Platki Shop Nevsky pr. 87/2, monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at Istituto Italiano di Cultura C-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, other as perfectly as beer MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki. www.internations.org. MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsan- and crisps or strawber- ru. This is the shop to go to if you are interested in purchas- pietroburgo.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, ries and cream. The bet- ing a high-quality scarf or shawl. Their designs feature many Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ter vodka brands come variations of traditional flowered motifs, along with more Mayakovsky Library/ Foreign Literature Library out under the Russky subdued hounds tooth patterns for the gentlemen or playful E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44-46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) standart label although animals for children. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, ladoga and berozka are closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, also good. For something more kitsch look out for Ka- YellowKorner C-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 86, MPetrograds- closed Sun. lashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is kaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 84 07, www.yellowkorner.com. The Netherlands Institute E-3, Kaluzhsky per. 3, still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and Petrograd side is the main ARTery of St. Petersburg, where MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www. a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy concentrated fashion galleries, lofts and exhibition spaces. nispb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more YellowKorner sells more than 1,500 exclusive photos that YESOD Jewish Community Home C-1, Bol. Razno- often than not it is fake and/or illegal. could be the finishing touch for your space or original gift for chinnaya ul. 25A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 your loved ones.QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. PAW 58 85, esod.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 52 expat AND Lifestyle Getting Around 53

The Expat Experience International Schools/Pre-schools Public transport and Taxis German School C-1, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileo- Most Petersburg residents get around the city by public Please tell us something strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutsch- transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight. about yourself. eschule.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets on board Hello, my name is Maarten Infant School (British International School) D-3, from the conductor or the driver. Bogaerts, General Director of Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 Bus/Trolleybus/Tram – Routes are indicated on window OOO Bogarts Butlers. Original- 77 74, www.infantschool.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. ly, I am from Belgium and have Closed Sat, Sun. Tickets cost 25Rbl. been in St. Petersburg for 1.5 The International Pre-School E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya Metro – Petersburg has five colour-coded, numbered metro years. Throughout my career, 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35. lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni) from the windows labelled kassa I have worked in hospitality QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed and mostly as a butler. In this period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival capacity I served different royal station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. families, embassies and other Clinics and Hospitals One metro ride costs 28Rbl. residences. I enjoy sports and American Medical Clinic and Hospital D-3, Nab. Taxis – Although there are official ’taxis’, most St. reading professional literature. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90/ Petersburgers hail down ordinary cars. To foreigners, (+7) 812 336 00 03, www.amclinic.com. Q Open 24hrs. travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it Why did you decide to move to Russia? PTAU is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain I frequently travelled to Russia because I always had a Euromed Medical Center F-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out special attraction to the country: the people, the cul- MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www. your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance ture, the natural environment.... Eighteen months ago, euromed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU (‘Skolko?’); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. Then I decided that the time was right to open a branch of Medi International Clinic E-3, Nevsky pr. 82, MMaya- hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try to avoid using my company here and moved to St. Petersburg. So far I kovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 00 00, www.emedi.ru. large denominations and asking for change. haven’t regretted my decision, in fact, everyday I receive QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. PTAU Taxi 068 tel. (+7) 812 068, (+7) 812 324 77 77, confirmation that it was the right choice. Russian - Finnish clinic Scandinavia E-2, Liteiny pr. 55A, www.taxi068.ru With your broad experience in etiquette worldwide, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www.avaclinic. Taxi Angel tel (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com what challenges do you see in Russia? ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PTAU I prefer to speak about opportunity, rather than chal- lenges. Of course, certain parts of history have not Buying Tickets encouraged general etiquette here, however, this is Entertainment Centres If you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows changing. Russians are extremely interested in learning Bowling Park D-3, Sennaya Shopping Centre, ul. Efi- in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they are more about etiquette and protocol, which shows that mova 3, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 30 05, www. not due to take a break in the next hour or two and don’t be they have the will to improve. Assisting everyone who is bowlingpark.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always interested would be a challenge. Fun City E-3, Nevsky pr. 112, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. On March 8 Russia celebrates Women's day, how (+7) 812 332 14 02, fcity.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. You can also buy online (although the booking pages are in would you rate the way women are treated in Russia PTAG Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station. Leaving St. Petersburg in comparison to the West? Happylon E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru. Don’t forget I love the 8th of March celebrations! There is not one 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 100 00 20, www. to bring your passport with you as they need it to print you By Plane woman walking in the streets without flowers in her hand happylon.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAKW passport number on the ticket and hold your reservation. or a smile on her face. I like to see men in the street car- St. Petersburg’s two airports are south of the city. Most rying their girlfriends’ purses or flowers. The attention international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34 women get on this day is not so common in the rest of Russian for Expats Buses 44, www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including those to most former Soviet Republics) leave from Pulkovo-1. the world and is a joy to see the respect they have in the Ecolines Podyezdnoy per. 3, Pushkinskaya, tel. (+7) private environment. On the corporate side, unfortunately, Блин – Blin Don’t forget to take your immigration card with you and Blin literally means "Pancake" but also slang for "Darn". 812 325 21 52, www.ecolines.ru QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. arrive early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long. there are not as many women in the higher roles in Russia Eurolines Russia Mitrofanyevskoe shosse 2-1, MBalti- as there are in the West. The week of February 24 till March 2, 2014 is marked Pulkovo-3 recently opened and caters to both international by the Christian celebration of Maslenitsa. This week iskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 37 57, www.eurolines.ru. Daily and domestic flights. Please double check your tickets to We heard about your link to famous Russian poet buses to Tallinn and Riga.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Alexander Pushkin, what can you tell us about it? celebrates the end of winter and also the last week before make sure you are going to the right airport! Every person who lives and works in Russia knows Alex- Great Lent. So, it's the last chance to pig out on delicious ander Sergeyevich Pushkin. By sheer coincidence I met butter, cheese and of course, Russian Blini! Blin is not only Train Stations Getting to the airport by Taxi his last living direct descendant, Alexander Alexandrovich a type of pancake, but also one of the most widely spoken Taxi-drivers may ask anything from 2,000Rbl (US$70 or slang words in the Russian language. Often translated into Baltiisky station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBalti- €50) to take you to the airport. Agree on the price first: a Pushkin, in Belgium during a charity dinner. He and his wife iskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59. Local trains to and from started the International A.S. Pushkin Foundation in order English as "darn" or "crap", it is uttered by people of all reasonable price is about 800Rbl (US$30 or €20) if you ages and used to express dissatisfaction with something. Petrodvorets (Peterhof), Lomonosov, Oranienbaum, Gatchina, are travelling from the city centre. Those located near to help children in need in Russia. Since meeting them, Luga, Krasnoe Selo. I have supported their efforts and I organise the annual Moskovskaya can expect to be charge more like 300Rbl, Finlyandsky station Pl. Lenina, 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. while those coming from the north of the city can pay as Gala of Russian Heritage in Brussels and other overseas (+7) 812 436 67 46. Local trains to and from Helsinki, events. In 2014, the goal is to expand the activities of much as 2,000Rbl. If you phone a taxi company and order Vyborg, Zhelenogorsk, Sestoretsk, Repino, Komarovo, transport to the airport in advance you can get a better deal. the Pushkin Foundation in Russia, in order to help even Karelia. more children towards a happy future. Ladozhsky station Zanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, What is your favourite place to go to in St. Petersburg? Liden & Denz E-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., Getting to the airport by Public Transport Buses tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10. Trains to and from Murmansk, N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) K13, I like to visit the palaces because of the history that oc- Vologda, Svetogorsk, Kostomuksha. curred inside them and also because of the fact that it is one of St.Petersburg oldest language schools, having T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min (25-28Rbl) opened in 1992. Russian is taught mostly in groups, Moskovsky station E-4, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Voss- to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go from Moskovskaya brings me back to the old days of serving the Royal Family. taniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28. Trains going to Moscow I really like walking along the Neva River and seeing the though individual tuition is also available. Situated in the and also the more central Sennaya Pl. historical city centre not far from Gostiny Dvor, the school and anywhere south of Moscow. Winter Palace, Peter and Paul Fortress, St. Isaac’s Cathe- Vitebsky station C-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPush- dral and other great monuments. They are such beautiful features spacious and bright classrooms, all equipped with modern facilities. There is workstation with iPads for kinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39. Trains to and from monuments and the light of the bright blue sky is so intense Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Brest, Odessa, Smolensk, Kiev, Minsk, Dva Bileta Pazhalusta! – that I cannot help taking hundreds of pictures, every time. student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Praga, Warsaw, Tallin, Riga, Berlin, Dnepropetrovska, Two tickets please! Budapest, Vilnius.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 54 GETTING AROUND GETTING AROUND 55

Street Register

1-28-ya liniya Grivtsova per. D-3 Mayakovskogo ul. E-2/E-3 Spassky per. D-3 The entrance and exit of Pushkin- B-2/B-3/C-2/C-3 Inzhenernaya ul. E-3 Mendeleevskaya liniya C-2 Sredniy pr. (V0) B-2/B-3/C-2 skaya metro station are currently Admiralteisky pr. D-3 Isaakievskaya pl. D-3 Mikhailovskaya ul. D-3 Starorusskaya ul. F-3 closed. Commuters are advised to Alexandra Nevskogo most F-3 Iskusstv pl. D-3 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Stolyarny per. D-3 use Zvenigorodskaya metro station. Angliskaya nab. C-3 Italyanskaya ul. D-3/D-4 Moskovsky pr. D-3/D-4 Stremyannaya ul. E-3 Anichkov most E-3 Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Moiky reky nab. C-3/D-2/D-3 Suvorovsky pr. F-2/F-3 Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1 Muchnoy per. D-3 Sverdlovskaya nab. F-1/F-2 Bakunina pr. F-3 Karavannaya ul. E-3 Mytninskaya nab. С-2/D-2 Tavricheskaya ul. F-2 Baskov per. E-2 Kazanskaya ul. D-3 Nekrasova ul. E-2 Chaikovskogo ul. E-2 Belinskogo ul. E-2 Kirochnaya ul. E-2/F-2 Nevsky pr. D-3/E-3/F-3 Teatralnaya pl. C-3 Birzhevaya liniya C-2 Kolokolnaya ul. E-3 Ostrovskogo pl. E-3 Troitsky most D-2 Blagoveshchensky most C-2 Konnogvardeysky bul. C-3 Pestelya ul. E-2 Tuchkov most C-2 Blokhina ul. C-2 Kovensky per. E-2 Petrovskaya nab. D-2 Tverskaya ul. F-2 Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul. Pirogovskaya nab. E-1/E-2 Universitetskaya nab. Bol. Morskaya ul. C-3/D-3 F-2 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-3 C-2/C-3 Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. D-3 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Poltavskaya ul. F-3 Vladimirsky pr. E-3 Bolsheokhtinsky most F-2 Kronversky pr. D-1 Pushkinskaya ul. E-3 Vosstaniya ul. E-2/E-3 Bolshoy pr. (PS) C-1/C-2 Kutuzova nab. D-2/E-2 Radishcheva ul. E-2/E-3 Vosstaniya pl. E-3 Bolshoy pr. (VO) B-3/C-2 Lermontovsky pr. C-3/C-4 Razyezzhaya ul. E-3 Voznesensky pr. D-3 Chernyshevskogo pr. E-2 Letny sad D-2 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. Zagorodny pr. D-3/D-4/E-3 Chkalovsky pr. C-1 Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 C-3/C-4/D-3 Zhukovskogo ul. E-3 Degtyarnaya ul. F-3 Ligovsky pr. E-3/E-4 Robespyera nab. E-2 Dekabristov ul. C-3/D-3 Liteiny most E-2 Rubinshteina ul. E-3 Dostoevskogo ul. E-3 Liteiny pr. E-2/E-3 Ryleeva ul. E-2 Dumskaya ul. D-3 Lomonosova ul. D-3/E-3 Sadovaya ul. E-2/E-3 Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Makarova nab. C-2 Sampsonievsky most D-1 Abbreviations Efimova ul. D-3 Mal. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Sapyorny per. E-2 Ul. – Ulitsa Furshtatskaya ul. E-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. D-3 Shpalernaya ul. E-2/F-2 Pr. – Prospekt Galernaya ul. C-3 Mal. Posadskaya D-1 Shvedsky per. D-2 Pl. – Ploshchad Glinki ul. C-3 Mal. Sadovaya E-3 Sinopskaya nab. F-3 Bul. – Bulvar Goncharnaya ul. E-3 Maly pr. (PS) C-1 Smolnaya nab. F-2 Per. – Pereulok Gorokhovaya ul. D-3 Maly pr. (VO) B-1 Solyanoy per. E-2 Kan. – Kanal Grafsky per. E-3 Manezhnaya pl. E-3 Sotsialisticheskaya ul. E-3 Nab. – Naberezhnaya Griboedova kan. nab. Marata ul. E-3 Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul. Bol. – Bolshaya C-3/C-4/D-2/D-3 Marsovo pole D-2 E-3/F-2/F-3 Mal. – Malaya O R BOLSHOY NEVKI NAB.NAB. IR AT AKA EMIREM M 1 DEM 59 A NAB. IKA PAV NT VKI LOVA U KA ANDR Y NE L.L. 55 EX KANTEMIROVSKY AL UL. MALO MOST 51 LITOTOVVSSKKAAYYAA

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St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 BOLSHOY NEVKI NAB. AKADEMIKA PAVLOVA UL. 1 59 KANTEMIROVSKAYA UL. KANTEMIROVSKY 55 ALEXANDRA MATROSOVA UL. MALOY NEVKI NAB. MOST 51 LITOVSKAYA UL.

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RYUKHINA UL. RYUKHINA GRENADERSKAYA UL. MORSKOY PR. 29 METALLISTOV PR. KRESTOVSKY 24 2 OSTROV 4 BOLSHOY SAMPSONIEVSKY PR. BATAREINAYA DOROGA 30 PETROGRADSKAYA UL. PETROGRADSKAYA NEISHLOTSKY PER. Slippery StreetsDINAMO PR. As the colder weather blows in What’s in a name? It was only in the 1760s that Nevsky BOLSHAYA NEVKA RIVER RIVER 40 LEVASHOVSKY PR. PL. LVA FOKINA UL. KRESTOVSKY PR. SPORTIVNAYA UL. PIROGOVSKAYA NAB. PISKARYOVSKY PR. TOLSTOGO LVA TOLSTOGO UL. 21 POLYUSTROVSKY PR. beware of ice on streets and paths. The ability of Prospekt got its current name.33 With Peter the Great still LEVASHOVSKY PR. CHKALOVSKY PR. KAMENNOOSTROVSKY PR. ZHUKOVA UL. 44 24 PETROGRADSKAYA NAB. Russian women to navigate .the icy streets in 6-inch alive it was known as the Big Prospekt, after his death it 40 VYBORGSKAYA UL. MINERALNAYA UL. 8 B MALY PR. 84 25 NA KOTOVSKOGOCHAPAEVA UL. heels may seem like the eighthA wonder of the world became Nevsky Prospekt.65 The communists decided to Y NEVKAV 14 LENINA UL. RENTGENA UL. LESNOY PR. UZHNA E 23 YA DORO AR BOL. ZELENINA UL. YUZHNAYA DOROGA GA to most foreigners. ButZ they have had a lot of training. name the famous thoroughfare 26after the revolution: the LA 30 MALAYA RALA 28 GATCHINSKAYA UL. ADMI 48 BOL. MONETNAYA UL. For the rest of us, it is wiser to stick to comfortable 25th of October Avenue. This last name luckily never caught SMIRNOVA UL. 22 ORANIENBAUMSKAYA UL. 13 BOLSHOY PR. KRONVERKSKAYA UL. 15 VATUTINA UL. shoes with good grip.L . on and they had to stick with the Nevsky moniker instead. PEVCHESKY PER. . MIRA UL. CHAPAEVA UL. 13 U L 22 PIONERSKAYA UL. 30 U Find our review on page 31 A KORPUSNAYA UL. 23 A AVSTRI- AY Y 8 Find our review on page 28 K CHKALOVSKAYA A SKAYA PL. S SK H 30 R 16 16 24 Z A 11 6 BOTKINSKAYA UL. O 11 K SAMPSONIEVSKY KONDRATYEVSKY PR. SHSABLINSKAYA UL. 1 7 14 SVERDLOVSKAYA NAB.FEODOSISKAYA UL. D 35 KRASNOGO KURSANTA UL. U MOST 34 A . P L 33 L VOSKOVA UL. O M A FINLYANDSKY PR. V ARSENALNAYA UL. NEVA PETROVSKAYA KOSA M 35 25 2 O 2 MALY PR. 4 GARDEN N A NVERKSKY PR. PIONERSKAYA UL. R KRO 15 MICHURINSKAYA UL. 4 5 ZHDANOVSKAYA21 UL. CHKALOVSKY PR. BOL. PUSHKARSKAYA UL.K KLINICHESKAYA UL. NEVA RIVER REVOLYUTSII SHOSSE 25 VVEDENSKAYAI NUL. A 1 26 U KUYBYSHEVA UL. L GORKOVSKAYA 7 1 50 14 . 2 4

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19 LIGOVSKY PR. the graves of Russia‘s2 greatest composers and writers, ZAGORODNY PR. 126 RUZOVSKAYA UL. PAVLOGRADSKIY LABUTINA UL. OFFICE 32 5 132 143 ATAMANSKAYA UL. 178 including Tchaikovsky,29 Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dosto- FONTANKY REKY NAB. 1 TYUSHINA UL. PER. SADOVAYA UL. TEKHNOLOGICHESKYSERPUKHOVSKAYA UL. LUBLINSKYPER. 15 INSTITUT evsky. See the6 full 31listingOBVODNY on page KANAL 42. Find our review on page 31 Find our review on page 41 MOZHAISKAYA UL. Find our91 review on page 30 FONTANKA RIVER LERMONTOVSKY PR. 1-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. BRONNITSKAYA UL. KONSTANTINA89 ZASLONOVA83 UL. TROITSKY PR. IZMAILOVSKY PR. KLINSKY PR. 20 2 145 39 DROVYANAYA UL. SOVETSKY PER. 38 OBVODNOGO KAN.NAB. 156 2-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA1 UL.

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DNEPROPETROVSKAYA UL. OBVODNY KANAL TAMBOVSKAYA UL. RASSTANNAYA UL.

BALTISKAYA FRUNZENSKAYA

B. Y REKY NA OIK M 58 Russia Moscow 59

History

9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus con- tinues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462. 17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great mar- Introduction ries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a Russia is undisputedly the world’s biggest country. Its sheer program of legislative and educational reform. size guarantees that no other country even comes in at 1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. a close second. While most visitors primarily make visits 1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs. Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and to the two capitals – Moscow and St. Petersburg – the 1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and The Kremlin country has much more to offer. Bordering 16 countries, shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is ambitious from across the country and further afield. In Within the world-famous red walls of Moscow’s mighty Kremlin it is 17,075,400 square kilometers large with a population quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German. all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabit- nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, of 143 million and a territory that encompasses nine time 1917 – 1924: Following the February and October Revo- ants is a melting-pot and its outstanding dining scene and ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov zones and 83 regions, so one naturally can sometimes feel lutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. Once inside overwhelmed by the sheer choice of sites on offer in such Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to the Kremlin you will be ushered towards Cathedral Square which an enormous country. But, it goes without saying that while Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s is surrounded by four medieval churches dating back to the many of the most exciting events in any given country occur a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural 15th Century as well as the grand Ivan the Great’s Bell Tower. in their capital cities, its soul often lies elsewhere. This is after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad. experience not to be missed. especially true in Russia. 1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts The Kremlin Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Russia features ancient towns filled with architectural until 1941. Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Q Open ensembles and churches completing visually fantastic 1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and Red Square 10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the Kremlin Cathedral landscapes, quaint and calm towns located on the banks of the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red Square 100-350Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl enormous rivers, and enough natural beauty – forests, lakes, losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must be and mountains – to satisfy anyone looking for a break from 1943. Germany surrenders in 1945. the Great’s day to the huge military parades started by Stalin, bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls. the hustle and bustle of city life. 1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people not to mention the looting of Napoleon’s troops, the protests While much of the major investment – and attention died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney. Every stone of Inside the Kremlin – in the last decade has poured into Moscow and St. In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him. every building here has a story or two to tell. Standing proud Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster Petersburg, capital has trickled into the provinces as well 1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space. at the top of Red Square is the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in at a considerable clip. Although the level of development 1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposi- topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured domes. At the other 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to in provincial towns is still not at a pace with the largest tion, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer end you will find the State History museum which details Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to cities, it is also part of the adventure. It is here that one can Olympics. the long and turbulent history of the nation. Shopaholics will it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. experience how average Russians live and imagine the past, 1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the delight in strolling round the beautiful 19th Century arcades Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Rus- present, and future of their country. Communist Party and calls for reforms including per- of the GUM department store whilst the Red Square ice sia's Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov archi- Winter is a magical time of year as the ice covers rivers and estroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness). rink is the perfect place to let off some steam whilst enjoying tects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of lakes and snow falls down on the cupolas of Russia’s ancient 1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected presi- the magnificent view. the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the churches. It is also the time of ice-swimming, ice-fishing and dent of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the warming up in banyas (Russian sauna). and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privati- GUM Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 788 Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them. In each subsequent issue we will select a few destinations zation shaking the country. 43 43, www.gum.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name within striking distance of the city’s capitals that make 1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin be- St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Red from an ancient festival where the Virgin's robes are trans- excellent detours into the beauty and wonder of provincial comes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, ferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this Russia. Some can be enjoyed as one-day getaways, while stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. www.saintbasil.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 others are full weekend trips. We would argue that no trip 2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President 50-250Rbl. - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained to Russia is fully complete without a visit to a provincial city, of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladi- State History Museum Red Square 1, MOkhotny glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also whether it be one of the wonders of the Golden Ring cities, mir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat. Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Q Open find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. or one of the ancient Russian settlements, such as Pskov 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission or Veliky Novgorod. It was in these towns that the idea of 60-440Rbl. Russia was first enunciated and enacted. Of course, a wider selection of cities can be found on our website. In this issue we have selected Moscow, and an additional four Getting There provincial cities. Moscow, of course, needs no introduction. The other cities are: Veliky Novgorod, one of Russia's early Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day trading settlements with a beautifully restored Kremlin. In this from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not issue you can read about Petrozavodsk, a city located in the making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can beauty of Karelian wilderness and Kostroma, an historical also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, city of contrasts. We also include Sochi, the hosty city of the which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you 2014 Winter Olympics. Enjoy! there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress russia.inyourpocket.com train which brings you right to the centre.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 60 Moscow Veliky Novgorod 61

Soviet sightseeing Russian Art As the former capital of the biggest communist nation in the For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous world (the USSR), Moscow is chock full of Soviet history which ‘Russian soul’ the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start as manifests itself in distinctive monumental architecture such it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. The as the iconic ‘seven sisters’ skyscrapers which are dotted Tretyakov Gallery is spread across two separate buildings around the city centre and the spectacular metro system. For about a kilometre apart from each other. The ‘old’ Tretyakov a glimpse of Soviet megalomania, head out to the All Russian covers Russian art from the 12th to 19th Centuries, begin- Exhibition Centre (more commonly known as VDNKh), where ning with exquisite and mysterious icons and ending with giant Lenin statues, space rockets and monuments to workers the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s and peasants loom. Space fans should not miss out on a visit to favourite realist master, Ilya Repin. The Tretyakov on Krymsky the nearby Cosmonautics museum which boasts such historic Val houses the museum’s enlightening 20th Century collec- memorabilia as the taxidermied bodies of the first dogs in space tion which reveals the Russian revolution and the Soviet era Belka and Strelka, along with the pods they flew to space in. as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes, ideas and stages. All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs) Pr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. The Tretyakov Gallery Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretyakovs- 90 or so pavillions built to house displays of progress of the kaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. great collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of com- QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 70-360Rbl. Veliky Novgorod Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) mercial enterprises and some are not that different to what is English audio guide 350Rbl. PU Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted 8162 225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option found in the metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very for a short sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s its golden dancing maidens each dedicated to a Soviet republic Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val Krymsky Val small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes sits at the heart of the complex. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Pavilions 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This look far more cared for than many other hotels in Novgorod -19:00. Entrance to pavilions from 0 - 500Rbl. Admission 100-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty Cosmonautics Museum Pr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel. blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 (+7) 495 682 57 60, www.space-museum.ru. Tu c k e d Literature and Theatre Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its rooms (Room prices start at 2,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s race to Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by famous Kremlin there are also more than 50 churches and HALGKDCW hhh the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky monasteries in the region to be explored. cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits, and Bulgakov have been preserved as museums. Moscow the interior of part of the Mir space station to explore, pho- was also the home of one of the greatest theatre direc- Restaurants and Cafes tos and documents from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri tors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the Sightseeing Khoroshye Lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel. Gagarin and plenty of artworks relating to man’s obsession theatre which he led is one of Moscow’s best for ballet, Veliky Novgorod Kremlin (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you’ve with conquering space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs dance and opera. Finally of course there’s no bigger name The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is been to this place you won’t want to eat anywhere else - it’s in space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first records of just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options that they flew around the earth in. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, spectacularly renovated. fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then in sleepy Novgorod. You can see the Kremlin from wherever Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200 - 350Rbl. most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen Enjoy the great outdoors and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. 09:00 - 24:00. €. PAW Luxury Trains to Moscow Moscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely Napoli Studencheskaya ul. 21/43, tel. (+7) 8162 636 it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometers restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include 307, www.napoli-restaurant.ru. Ok so you probably didn’t Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park, the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history come to Veliky Novgorod to eat Italian food, but trust us this a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to for a historic view try the rink on Red Square and to enjoy museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument. If you is one of the best dining options in town. The staff are polite your cabin you will find your beds have already been made Moscow’s most historic skating pond its many mulled are not afraid of heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui and helpful, the food is fresh and the atmosphere is neither up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. touristy nor provincial. As well as good pastas and wines, they carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has Patriarch’s Ponds. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathe- also have a real stone oven in which they bake their excellent a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and dral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra. fresh bread and pizzas. It’s a bit far out so you will probably cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the Hotels need to go there by taxi or bus 4, 8, 8a or 20. Very convenient midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to Ilmen lake for those staying in the Park Inn hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. your room in the morning and if at any moment during the Comrade Hostel Ul. Maroseika 11, 3rd floor (go under It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit the €€. PTALESW trip you experience some problems you can call the train arch to the left of the playground to find building en- open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come trance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www. neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable posi- to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the comradehostel.com. tion right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. QTo get there take Getting There morning, it’s worth the money. Hotel Ermitage Durasovsky per.7, bldg. 1, MKurskaya, bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey There are many trains a day travelling to Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal (metro Pl. Vosstaniya)at Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermitage- should take about 20 minutes. Entrance to the monastery is free. By train: Veliky Novgorod in around three hours. From St. Pe- 00:20 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call hotel.ru. hhh tersburg’s Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya- Yamskaya 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, Hotels trains depart at 07:11 (Lastochka express), 08:12 and www.marriottmoscowtverskaya.com. hhhh Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, 17:00. From Vitebsky station (metro Pushkinskaya) Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka Ul. Pok- tel. (+7) 816 294 09 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel- trains depart at 07:40. Trains return to St. Petersburg at rovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 velikynovgorod. Novgorod‘s only four star hotel is run by the 06:15, 08:05, 18:45 (to Moskovsky station) and 18:27 77, www.pokrovka-moscow.com. hhhhh Park Inn brand and it‘s a definite step above the rest. Rooms (to Vitebsky station). Medea Hotel D-4, Pyatnitsky per. 4, bldg. 1, MNo- are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and By bus: In addition there are also numerous buses vokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 48 98, medeya-hotel. the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only (journey time approx 3.5 hours) a day leaving from the bus ru. hhh good places to eat in this sleepy town and there‘s also an ‚art station at Obvodnogo kan. 36. Buses to St. Petersburg nightclub‘. To get there from the city centre take bus No4, 8a or run hourly until 21:30. The journey takes around 3,5 hours www.fb.com/MoscowInYourPocket 20. Q225 rooms (Prices start at 4,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. and costs 370Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 62 Sochi sochi 63

Teremki Landyshevaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 918 915 38 02, www.teremki-sochi.ru. Staying in these wooden houses, which can accommodate either 4 or 6 people, is a pleasure. The owners are friendly and know what hospitality is (they speak English!). Located in the northern Mamayka district, it’s a 15 minute bus drive from Sochi’s train station (when there are no traffic jams). Q House for rent from 5,000Rbl depending on house type andf the amount of guests. 5 days minimum. PTLDCW

Tulip Inn Rosa Khutor Hotel Krasnaya Polyana, Esto- sadok, Rosa Khutor Alpine Ski Resort, tel. (+7) 862 243 00 00, www.tulipinnrosakhutor.com. Tulip Inn, unusually in Russia, manages to bat above its official ranking; for a three- star hotel it delivers service closer to four-star, and the helpful, obliging and multi-lingual staff do an excellent job in keeping guests happy. Part of an international chain, the hotel wears its Ski Resort Krasnaya Polyana Dutch influences lightly, with the Amsterdam restaurant offering a mixture of local and European cuisine. The company is plan- Sochi’s summer charms have been the stuff of legend for ning to open a second hotel on-site under its Golden Tulip (4*) generations of Soviet holidaymakers – but the challenge 45km away from the Black Sea lies Krasnaya Polyana, a branding in time for the Winter Olympics. Q148 rooms (Room for 2014 has been to transform those beaches and Sochi famous ski resort located at a height of 560 meters above prices start st 3,800Rbl). PTA6UFLGKDwW sanatoriums into a year-round resort with top notch ski Covered with palm trees and blessed with a subtropical sea level. The mountain tops have modern ski-facilities which facilities. That process has put the name of Krasnaya climate, Sochi is one of the best places to stay in Russia - reach heights of more than 2300 meters. Krasnaya Polyana Zhemchuzhina Hotel Complex Chernomorskaya Polyana (Red Meadow) firmly on the world’s sporting map. especially if you like warm climates. Furthermore, the Black will host the Olympic skiing, snowboarding and ski-jumping. ul. 3, tel. (+7) 862 266 11 88, www.zhem.ru. Its name The once unassuming town lies on the slower slopes Sea city is the host of the Winter Olympics in 2014. Sochi and its surrounding region finally became part of means pearl, and this giant one was inherited from the Soviet of the Caucasus mountains, about 60km from Sochi’s However, foreigners should be aware that Sochi is still not Russia 150 years ago, in 1864, after decades of war with the Union, but its appearance doesn’t live up to its name. The airport, set amid magnificent scenery. used to flocks of foreign tourists. It is mainly Russians, Turkish (Ottoman) empire and tribes living in the Caucasus plus side is that the beach is within walking distance. Q956 It’s a long way south, so the ski runs are high up on those and citizens of former Soviet republics, who populate the highlands. The royal nobility loved the region, with its healthy rooms (Room prices start at 5,300Rbl). PTA6UFL� slopes – a network of cable cars stretches its tentacles beaches and explore the Caucasus Mountains. With ten water springs, and the first Russian sanatoriums were built GKDCwW out of the Rosa Khutor resort complex and whisks skiers thousand residents, a small expat community is working along the coast. through a 20-minute botany class, starting in damp hard to prepare Sochi for the Olympics. After the Russian revolution in 1917, the working class deciduous woodland before emerging into sparkling, During summer temperatures in Sochi vary between 25 and received rights for holidays, promoted by Lenin. Sochi Restaurants snowy coniferous forest. During the ski season (relatively 30 degrees Celsius. For example, in the first week of May became the favourite holiday destination of Stalin and he Brigantina Neserbskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 918 608 71 11, brief, from late December to April, but staff say the this year, the In Your Pocket staff enjoyed a temperature visited the Black Sea for a few weeks every year. You can visit www.sochicatering.com. This is the best place for food, last two years have seen snow well into April) it can be of 23 degrees. his dacha in Sochi, which is located near many other Soviet according to foreigners who frequently visit or live in Sochi. This a breathtaking transformation; in summer the whole The winters are mild: by the coast the temperatures are sightseeing spots, such as the Lenin mosaic. French-owned restaurant overlooks the harbour, has outdoor region is home to walkers, hikers and other lovers of around 5-10 degrees, or even higher. In the mountains, where In the 1960s, Sochi, and the whole Black Sea coast, was tables, and the menu of seafood and grilled meats are irresist- the great outdoors. the ski resorts are located, temperatures are much lower developed in to one big holiday resort. Forbidden to travel ible.QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs.. €€. PTASW In the valley of the Mzymta river, Rosa Khutor is in winter, and there you can enjoy a good ski holiday. Often abroad, 50 million Russians went to Sochi every year, and the establishing itself as a resort with an alpine accent. there is snow and ice until May. However, mild winters, with region was known by then as the Russian Riviera. With the fall Chaika Ul. Voikova 1, tel. (+7) 862 241 81 64. The old Its cluster of hotels has a European look to it, while a huge shortage of snow, can also happen. of the Soviet Union, and the possibility of cheap holidays to port is going through a renovation and you can now dine and the town square’s slightly Dutch architecture perhaps Egypt or Spain, Sochi decayed in the 1990’s and the region’s sip cappuccino in the former classic-style Sea Terminal. The reflects the role of the Golden Tulip chain in developing economy suffered hard. Moscow prices are worth paying to experience the splendid the site. Off-piste entertainment is mostly confined Getting There When Putin, a sport enthusiast and big fan of skiing at Sochi’s view over the Black Sea and its port from the outdoor terrace. to hotel bars, although there is a small ice-rink and a Krasnaya Polyana, became the president of Russia in 2000, Don’t forget to visit Chaika’s toilet to get an inside look at the scattering of bars and restaurants available. A regular Train or plane? A quick or slow journey? If you choose the the resurrection and face-lift of Sochi began. In 2007 the city port building.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW bus route (No105) connects the resort with Krasnaya Russian railway, make sure your train will travel along the won the bid to stage the Winter Olympics in 2014, and so Polyana proper, the Aeroexpress terminal for trains to 145km long Black Sea coast during the day, preferably in far 50 billion Euros has been invested in new facilities, sport Tinkoff Primorskaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 862 225 52 02, the airport, and downtown Sochi back on the coast. This the morning. It is then that you will almost certainly spot stadiums and high-speed railways. www.tinkof.ru. This Russian famous brewery restaurant has autumn, the high-speed train will have daily services dolphins swimming in the sea, whilst you have breakfast opened a three-storey hang-out at the beach - with excellent from Adler train station directly to the Krasnaya Polyana in your carriage. This is an amazing sight, as we can say views over the Black Sea. Here you can watch sports or listen ski resort. The new railway is a fabulous route through from experience. Hotels to live music on the top floor terrace, while enjoying food and the mountains. By train: At least 3 trains per day travel from Mos- Sochi has plenty of hotels, although many are under drinks. This is an excellent place to pass days and nights. cow to Sochi. In summer the number increases to 10 construction, especially in the city centre. The city and its QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALVESW per day. The trains leave from different train stations region have a long tradition of locals offering private rooms, (although most leave from Kazansky station) so complete apartments and B&Bs for low prices. This was even Vostochny Kvartal Primorskaya ul. 7, tel. (+7) 862 check carefully. The fastest train – which is also the allowed during Soviet times, and many Sochi citizens made 266 10 99, www.vkvartal-sochi.ru. According to locals, most expensive and luxurious - is the Sochi Premium a living out of it. However, if you don’t understand Russian, this is the best place in town to tuck in to Caucasian food, and which brings you to Sochi in exactly 24 hours. Other it will be hard to find them on the internet. we were not disappointed. This huge place offers all the well- trains will take up to 38 hours. From St. Petersburg known dishes; the ones unknown to the Caucasian kitchen, there are 3 direct trains to Sochi during summer, and Grand hotel & SPA Rodina Vinogradnaya ul. 33, as well as the more addictive ones: khachapuri (cheese one in winter. They leave from Mosvkovsky station or tel. (+7) (862) 253 90 00, www.grandhotelrodina.ru. bread), shashliks (kebabs), lobio (kidney beans with onions Ladozhsky station. The journey from St. Petersburg At around 1000 Euros per night, this former sanatorium is and spices) and much more. There is also live music!QOpen takes between 37 and 57 hours. the most expensive place to stay in Sochi. Complete with a 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW By plane: Russian airlines, such as Aeroflot, S7 and great spa, it is bad for your wallet, but good for relaxation! Transaero offer daily flights to Sochi. Flights from Mos- Here you will meet Moscow’s upper class. Indeed, it is very cow take around 2 hours 20 minutes, and flights from luxurious, and you will even have your own private Black Sochi is the capital St. Petersburg take approximately 3 hours 30 minutes. Sea beach. Q40 rooms (Room prices start at 37,000Rbl). of the Winter Olympics 2014 PHA6ULGKDCSwW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 64 Petrozavodsk Petrozavodsk 65

Karelskaya Gornitsa Ul. Engelsa 13, tel. (+7) (814) 278 53 00, www.gornica.ru. The creation of Finnish Kizhi Open-Air Museum head chef Tarmo Vasenius, this restaurant is unique in serving Karelian cuisine. The great Karelian lakes provide the menu with a lot of fish, as well as wild animal meat, such as bear and deer, mushrooms from the forest, and drinks made from cowberry (brusnika) and cloudberry (moroshka). Gornitsa is an attraction in itself, designed to look like a Karelian peasant izba (house) with wood, samovars, and the red and white embroidered cloth that is traditional in the area.

Parizhanka Pr. Lenina 31, tel. (+7) 814 279 56 72, paris.ptz-group.ru. “The Parisienne” is ubiquitous in Petro- zavodsk, with nince outlets (see the web for all addresses) of this popular café in the city. With a 24 hour opening, the café is perfect for a hot chocolate in plush surroundings, with tempting patisserie on offer. Very popular with wedding parties popping in in the midst of taking photographs at the local sights of interest, as is the custom.

The highlight of any visit to Karelia, Kizhi open-air mu- Petrozavodsk Hotels Sightseeing seum is a magical mix of architectural and ethnographic Known in Finnish as “Petroskoi”, Petrozavodsk is the Park Inn by Radisson Petrozavodsk Pl. Gagarina While the excursions to the local islands are the main wonder. Russia is famed for the expansiveness of its for- capital of the independent republic of Karelia, a region 1, tel. (+7) 814 271 70 70, www.parkinn.com/hotel- attraction, the city centre also has a lot to interest the tourist. ests, which gave rise to the inventiveness of the Northern with a unique Finno-Russian culture. It’s location on Lake petrozavodsk. This hotel complex blends Park Inn‘s “live well, The embankment is the first port of call, as you’ll naturally craftsmen. They used their expertise at carving wood to Onega, the second-largest lake in Europe, makes it the ideal sleep well” motto with the luxury knowledge of the Radisson want to see Lake Onega, but some architectural details are build not only sheds, barns and cowsheds, but houses, stopping-off point for visits to Kizhi island, a unique open- group. Situated right next to the railway station, the hotel also not to be missed. The town still has some examples of chapels and churches. Kizhi island is the place where air museum, displaying the wonders of Northern Russian is perfect for business clientele, with six meeting rooms, old wooden town buildings, some of which are still inhabited. the varied marvels of Northern Russian wooden archi- wooden architecture. including a large conference hall that seats 200, whose glass tecture have come to rest from villages and hamlets in The iconic wooden Transfiguration church and other period windows offer natural daylight and splendid views down to Embankment A stroll on the embankmentis a must. Lined the Onega Lake area, which numbers over 1650 islands. log buildings are protected by UNESCO as objects of cultural the lake. Rooms are ultra modern, with Swedish design to with sculptures donated from Petrozavodsk‘s twinned towns, The iconic Transfiguration Church is famous for being importance. match the northern location. Munich‘s celebrated Paulaner promenade along here to watch the boats and gaze at the built ‘without a single nail‘, that is to say, the structure Lake Ladoga nearby is home to the Valaam Monastery, and brewers are opening a two-floor restaurant downstairs, with misty hills on the other side of Lake Onega. On the eastern is entirely made from wood. The magnificent structure the Solovestskie Islands in the White Sea, home to a tragic four types of beer brewed on site and live entertainment side, asculpture of Peter the Great eternally points towards rises from the island like a lofty tree, its twenty-two onion history as a monastery and then labour camp, are also from local jazz and folk groups. The hotel‘s 24 hour gym and the town, ordering it to be built. When we visited segways domes seeming to crown it like pine cones. Culturally and accessible from Petrozavodsk. The city’s name derives from free high-speed WiFi ensure the high quality of this interna- were available to rent. architecturally unique, It was added to Unesco‘s World Petrovsky Zavod (Peter’s Factory), as it was founded in 1703 tional brand. Q180 rooms (Room prices start at 4,050Rbl). Heritage list in 1990.The art of Karelian wood-carving by Peter the Great as a location for his iron foundry at the PTHAUFKW Lenin Square (Pl. Lenina) Once named the ‘Round can also be seen upon visiting the peasant houses on the time of the Great Northern War with Sweden. Square,’ which is only a paradox in the English language, this island. The 19th-century house of the peasant Oshenev During the Occupation War (1941-44), the city was occupied Petrozavodsk Hostel Krasnaya ul. 28, tel. (+7) 911 circular square was built in 1775 and is the centre of historical has been called a house-complex, as its design perfectly by Finnish troops for three years before being won back by the 400 56 46, www.petrohostel.ru. Just off the main street Petrozavodsk. The classical two-storey buildings, painted in the matches the needs ofthe enormous web of a Russian Red Army. The neo-classical architecture and sculpture-lined in town, this low-cost hostel is perfect for a budget stay in the pale-yellow seen all over Russia, once housed the Gubernial peasant family, whose life was dictated by the seasons embankment mean that the town is more than provincial, centre of the city with quick access to restaurants, shops and Chancellery and other 18th century administrative buildings. of the Russian North. During the harsh winter, the wife with plentiful opportunities to take advantage of the Karelian the lake. The hostel has a 24 hour reception and registration, could feed the cattle in the cowshed by scattering grain forests for walking, hunting, and fishing. WiFi, and help with organizing trips to Kizhi, Valaam and other Museum of Fine Art of the Republic of Karelia Pr. through the floorboards of the workroom to the cowshed From Petrozavodsk you can reach the famous islands of Kizhi, places of interest. Their beds come from 390Rbl for a bed Karla Marxa 8, tel. (+7) 814 278 37 13, artmuseum. below, avoiding going into the freezing whiteness outside. Valaam and the Solovetskie islands. in a room for 6 to 2,000Rbl for a room for two. Everything is karelia.ru. This wonderful art museum on Kirova Square very tidy and friendly, and they speak English at reception. has an outstanding collection, from icons displaying the Getting there Q PAW Northern russian tradition of painting, to their unique collec- By hydrofoil: If you haven‘t arranged your ticket from tion of twentieth-century local paintings, with some exquisite Getting There a tour operator, you can buy a ticket from one of the landscapes depicting the beauty of Karelian nature.Q Open kiosks at the boat terminal. Make sure to do this at least Restaurants and Cafes 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 750Rbl for By train: You can reach Petrozavodsk by train from both a day in advance. The journey to the island takes an hour Pr. Lenina 28. This café is unsurprisingly adults, 100Rbl for special exhibitions. Audioguides (100Rbl) Moscow and St. Petersburg. There are four everyday Café Kivach and a half. The main office at the boat terminal is open popular with students, being located opposite the university are available in Russian, English, and Finnish. trains from the Moscow Lenigradsky railway station 08.00 - 21.00 daily. www.kareliaflot.ru (Metro Komsomolskaya.) building. Decent pizza and pasta dishes. The overnight trains are at 20:30, arriving 09:45, and By helicopter: In winter you can get a helicopter to the Pr. Lenina 20, www.dejavu.petrofood. 21:20, arriving at 12:18. Prices vary from 1,500 (third Deja-Vu Bistro island. Contact Peski Airport, Borovaya ul. 4, tel. (+7) 814 ru. Opposite the Severnaya Hotel, this place is perfect to stop class) to 2,500Rbl (second class). From St. Petersburg 274 74 66 or a Petrozavodsk travel agency. here are three trains daily, with the best overnight op- off at if you get tired on the long walk down Prospect Lenina tion being 22:02 - 06:40 unless you want to arrive in the to the lake. Essentially French-inspired, there is also classic Tours beef stroganoff and pasta dishes. middle of the night or travel all day. Tourist groups are formed upon arrival to the island if you want a guided tour, or you can visit the buildings by Pr. Karla Marxa 1, tel. (+7) By plane: Petrozavodsk has an airport, although be Fregat Restaurant-Club yourself. Admission for foreign citizens is 625Rbl, with 814 279 64 98. This café is an ideal spot for breakfasting warned that there have been recent fatal accidents in another 100 for the excursion, which is professional and if you have an early boat trip to Kizhi, as from the veranda the Russian North. informative. Audioguides are available from the ticket you can watch the terminal to make sure you don‘t miss your office in English, Finnish, Russian for 150Rbl. www. lime-green Kometa.A range of essentially French cuisine, they Petrozavodsk Tourist Information kizhi.karelia.ru Tourist Information Centre, Ul. Kuibysheva 5. also have a range of local dishes, including deer with forest berries from 390Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com February - March 2014 66 KOSTROMA

Kostroma Sightseeing Kostroma is a city of contrasts: a mere six hours from Ipatievsky Monastery Ul. Prosveshcheniya 1, tel. Moscow it is filled with ancient monasteries, hip bars and (+7) 494 231 75 91, www.ipatievsky-monastery.ru. unusual museums. Kostroma has something for everyone Kostroma‘s main attraction, this is where a young Mikhail looking for the Russia of new and old. The three main fig- Romanov was holed up before going to Moscow to ascend the ures of Kostroma that the visitor will constantly encounter throne of Tsar. Founded around 1330, over the years the mon- are Ostrovsky, Susanin and Snegurochka, the ice maiden astery has played host to Catherine the Great and Nicholas II. whose ubiquitous presence ensures that the little ones will Unlike most monasteries, the Ipatievsky is no nonsense being be entertained. centred on two main exhibits: the Troitsky Cathedral and The Kostroma supposedly takes its name from an ancient Slavic Romanov Chambers. We have seen many churches in our day, goddess associated with spring and fertility and the worship but the Troitsky is impressive, extraordinarily well preserved of this deity was a major festival in ancient Russia. Once in a mid-17th century Moscow style and doused in gold, its upon a time it was the name for a linen doll, the history of walls covered in frescoes and holy depictions and covered which can be found at the Museum of Linen and Birchbark. by a five-domed roof. The young Mikhail Romanov lived with Kostroma is most famous as being the city where Mikhail his mother in the Chambers until 1613. Q Admission 80Rbl. Romanov set out to Moscow from to claim his throne, ending the Time of Troubles and ushering in the Romanov Dynasty. Museum of Wooden Architecture Ul. Prosvesh- cheniya 1, tel. (+7) 494 237 38 72, www.kmtn. ru/~kossloboda. Just down the road from the Ipatievsky Hotels Monastery is another unique museum, officially called the Golden Ring Hotel Ul. Nizhnyaya Debrya 104, tel. Komstromskaya Sloboda. Designed to recreate a Kostroma (+7) 494 262 24 44, kostroma-goldenring.ru. Q33 area village from the 19th century, this open-air museum rooms (Room prices start at 2,700Rbl). Extra bed 700Rbl. features 30 wooden buildings, brought in from around the PALKW Kostroma region. It features various structures including Ipatievskaya Sloboda Beregovaya ul. 3a, tel. (+7) homes of the rich and poor, as well as religious buildings 494 237 12 24, www.i-sloboda.ru. Q19 rooms (Room and astonishingly, none of the buildings used a nail in their prices start at 1,600Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. Breakfast construction. Q Admission 80Rbl. 200Rbl. PK Verba Rabochy pr. 7, tel. (+7) 494 255 28 91. Q13 The Museum of Linen and Birchbark Ul. Tereshkovoi rooms (Room prices start at 1,000Rbl). PT6NW 38, tel. (+7) 494 231 05 89, www.linenmuseum.ru. Volga Yunosheskaya ul. 1, tel. (+7) 494 239 42 41, Most tour groups will make a stop here to see this museum www.gkvolga.ru. Q209 rooms (Room prices start at dedicated to traditional Russian handicrafts. When we went 1,800Rbl). Extra bed 780Rbl. PTA6ULGDW we were treated to a wonderful excursion led by a teenager attired in traditional peasant dress. There are three halls, although the third one is a basement shop. The halls show Getting There the wonder that is Russian handicrafts made of birchbark and linens. The local favorite, Snegurochka, is on prominent By train: From St. Petersburg there is the daily train display as are many creations featuring the likenesses of 95 at 17:40 from Moskovsky train station that gets in heroes and villains from Russian folktales. Q Open 09:30 - at 09:02 the next morning. Coming back take train 95 18:00. Admission 70Rbl. leaving at 18:22 and getting in at 11:15 the following morning. Tickets run 2,200 - 3,900Rbl each way. Moose Farm Kostroma Oblast, Sumarokovo village, tel. (7) 494 235 94 33, www.loseferma.ru. One of Kostroma‘s By plain: There is a tiny airport called Sokerkino which has quirkiest exhibits is located about 20 km from the centre. flights leaving from St. Petersburg on Friday and Sunday at An experimental farm founded in the Soviet times where the 18:50 and leaving from Kostroma on Fridays and Sundays moose has been domesticated (as much as that is possible). at 15.30. There are also flights to St. Petersburg at 08:05 Way back in Tsarist times there were moose domestication and to Kostroma at 12:00 on Wednesdays. For more advocates, yet it was not until 1963 that this moose farm information see kostroma-avia.ru/services/timetable/. was founded. Today the moose wander the grounds of the farm and produce milk and antler velvet.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com