sign in sign up
<<
Home , Blatina, Georgian wine, Montenegrin wine, Romanian wine, Slovenian wine, Venetian wine

A gaucho in full costume shows off in a Salta-province

, the peaks of the Andes in the background. 2011 y

2 I ArgentinA A 52 I cAliForniA

20 I AustrAliA 72 I wAshington m 27 I eAstern europe 79 I spirits

e 35 I Fr Ance 84 I beer

D 40 I gui

Photo © Andy Christodolo buying WineMag.com | 1 BUYING I GUIDE

Argentina AMERICA’S LOVE AFFAIR WITH id anyone in the industry predict expensive arriving on the market, and that Malbec would grab the fancy of Schachner also reviews a number of Best Buys DAmerican consumers in the way that it this issue, including such well-known brands as has? Malbec’s success, like that of other grapes Graffigna, Santa Julia and Trivento. before it, has come largely unforseen. In retro- This month’s French coverage includes a quick Efeste ¯ 2009 Lola spect, it’s easy to attribute the successes of Mer- look at some remaining 2008 Burgundies, both 96 (Columbia Valley); $30. This is as lot, and now Malbec to certain white and red, before the widely acclaimed 2009s good as the best from California—textural, characteristics of the —supple tannins and begin to arrive later this year. There are some creamy, a delicious mix of lemon custard, lush textures, perhaps? excellent wines, and consumers may benefit from meringue, caramel, papaya and toasted coconut. In this month’s Buying Guide, Contributing relatively modest prices because so much atten- At one quarter the price of comparable bottles, Editor Michael Schachner takes a look at the tion is focused on the 2009s. European Editor this young wine just seduces from the instant it latest Malbecs to arrive from Argentina, including Roger Voss also touches on some of the wines hits the tongue. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. top-scoring efforts from Bodega Catena Zapata recommended in his feature story, “Decoding the and Viña Cobos, among others. In volume terms, Wines of the ,” which begins on page these high-end wines are a tiny proportion of 62, while Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Argentina’s production, but they represent an Buzzeo reviews wines from Languedoc. effort to prove Malbec’s “worth” on the Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, check stage. They are excellent wines, but whether they out some interesting varieties from Australia, a are worth their price tags is something consumers mashup of Italy’s latest releases, and hundreds of will ultimately decide. new releases from California and Washington. In the meantime, there is no shortage of less Cheers! —JOE CZERWINSKI Stephen & Walker 2007 Cabernet Viña Cobos 2007 Marchiori Vine- 96 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain); RED WINES 93 yard Malbec (Mendoza); $190. $65. An absolutely first-rate Cabernet that not Young, fiery and rugged on the nose, but with only shows the big tannins and ageworthiness of MALBEC exotic notes that suggest Middle Eastern and Howell Mountain, but is made in a dry style that Asian herbs and spices. Like all Cobos Malbecs, calls to mind a fine Left Bank . It’s a Bodega Catena Zapata 2007 Nica- this is big, chewy, brawny and a touch medicinal, big wine, voluminous in tannins and extremely 94 sia Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza); with powerful dark fruit flavors, particularly black mouth-filling, and the blackberry and cassis fla- $120. Among Catena’s high-end wines from cherry, and a good deal of licorice, chocolate and vors have elements of dried herbs, minerals, 2007, Nicasia is the top performer. It shows allur- overall richness. Handles its 15% alcohol better tobacco and cedar. Already throwing some sedi- ing aromas of smoky , wild flowers and pure than many heavyweights; drink now through ment, it should develop in the bottle for at least berry fruits. The palate is a blend of smoothness, 2013. Imported by Paul Hobbs . —M.S. the next eight years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. grainy tannins and fine acidity, while the flavors Bodega Catena Zapata 2007 of berries, chocolate and cola are layered just Argentino Malbec (Mendoza); right. Still the pacesetter for high-end Argentine 92 $120. Funky at first and simply not as smooth, Malbec; drink now through 2015. Imported by pure and clean as Catena’s Nicasia and Adrianna Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Malbecs, which are the components of this wine. Argentino in 2007 is deep and dark like always, Bodega Catena Zapata 2007 Adri- with coconut and cassis aromas preceding a Stonestreet 2007 Monument anna Vineyard Malbec (Men- 93 sweet, ultrarich palate that’s teetering on candied. Ridge doza); $120. 96 Fruity, pure and smooth on the Quite oaky and chocolaty as well, with brown (Alexander Valley); $45. A dramatic wine, nose, and maybe more dry and leathery than the sugar and depth to the finish. Drink now through authoritative in tannins, bone dry and noble. blasting Nicasia vineyard wine. The palate has a 2014. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. Withholds its best under a cloak of astringency, deep, classy elegance along with power, and the but already shows its mountain in the flavors run toward huge black fruits, coffee and Cruz Andina 2008 Malbec (Men- complexity of its structure and deep, intense chocolate. Finishes dark, long and minerally, and 92 doza); $20. A big, ripe and pure Mal- blackberry, currant, blueberry and dried herb fla- overall it’s yet another awesome top-flight Malbec bec with gorgeous berry aromas setting up a lush, vors. Should develop bottle complexities for at from this world-class winery. Drink now through yummy palate that pumps forth chewy, delicious least a decade and probably longer. Editors’ 2014. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. Continued on page 00 Choice. —S.H.

2|WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Charnu 2007 95 Cabernet Sauvi- gnon (St. Helena); $75. Classic Napa Cabernet, with perfectly ripened blackberry, cherry and cas- sis fruit, nicely elaborated by sweet, smoky oak, and framed in ripe, smooth tan- nins. Really a lovely wine, Franciscan 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- with the balanced equilib- Bennett Lane 2007 Cabernet 94 gnon (Napa Valley); $28. A terrific rium to ride out the next 94 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $55. Very wine that proves you don’t have to spend a for- decade. —S.H. ripe, dense and concentrated. Although it’s totally tune for a top-flight Napa Valley Cabernet. It’s a dry, the wine shows massive, sweet flavors of deeply flavored, brooding young wine, filled with blackberry and cherry fruit. Impresses for sheer exciting blackberry, cassis and mineral flavors. Big power, as well as the length of finish. Cellar this in tannins, yet with a very refined, classy mouth- youthful beauty for 6–7 years and see what it feel, it should begin to hit its stride after 2014. does. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

Bennett Lane 94 2007 Maximus Red Feasting Wine Marimar Estate 2008 Chico’s Run (Napa Valley); $35. 95 Doña Margarita Vineyard Pinot Tastes dramatic and youth- Noir (Sonoma Coast); $49. A very successful fully vital, with fat, fleshy Pinot Noir that shows the splendid characteristics flavors of blackberries, cas- of grapes well grown in the far Sonoma Coast, sis, mocha and sweet cedar, Hanzell 2007 Ambassador’s 1953 on famed Goldridge soils. Acidity marks it, crisp as well as a mineral tang 94 Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma and vital and nervy. Yet wrapped into the silky that grounds them. Very Valley); $130. Shows the dryness, acidity and mouthfeel are rich, elaborate cherry, raspberry, upscale and refined, a pure tightly wound minerality of all Hanzell’s young Dr. Pepper cola, pomegranate, persimmon and product of superior terroir Chardonnays, but with a depth of citrus and apri- sandalwood flavors that are intricate as a tapestry. and . —S.H. cot fruit that marks it as a reserve. It really war- A great wine that should develop bottle complex- rants time in the cellar. Best after 2013, and ities over the next eight years. —S.H. should develop for several more years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

Migration 2009 Charles Heintz Envy 2007 Late (Napa Val- Joseph Drouhin 2008 Domaine 95 Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma 94 ley); $45. This very sweet wine was har- 94 Drouhin-Vaudon Les Clos Grand Cru Coast); $55. Spectactular Chardonnay, so pure, vested at 33 degrees brix, which for wine geeks (Chablis); $80. Taut, tight, steely wine that is clean and delicious. Defines the cool coastal cli- means lots and lots of sugar. Honeyed flavors immensely concentrated. This is classic mineral- mate of the Sonoma Coast, with brilliant, citrusy dominate, fruited with apricots and tangerines. It driven Chablis, the crisp citrus fruit and pear flavors acidity brightening long hangtime flavors of trop- is, in a word, delicious. Even better, it’s frosted integrated into a dominant structure. It needs aging, ical fruits, green apples and succulent peaches with vanilla and butter, and vital acidity is perfect. 5–6 years or more. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & and pears. A stunningly good, upscale Chard to A superior Sémillon- that joins Co. Cellar Selection. —R.V. drink with very rich fare, such as ricotta cheese- the top ranks of California dessert wines. —S.H. filled gnocchi with grilled rock shrimp and Parmesan cheese. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 3 BUYING I GUIDE

Tres Vinicul- Beresan 2007 94 tores 2008 93 Viuda Negra The Industrial Zin- (Walla Walla); $35. fandel (Sonoma The new of Viuda County); $40. One Negra (literally, “black of the best widow”) is a third each of the vintage. This Cabernet Sauvignon, Krupp Brothers 2006 Stagecoach wine is exuberant in and Mer- 94 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wild berry, briary, lot. For a it is a (Napa Valley); $90. Hugely intense in fruity brambly nettle, cola, real fruitbowl of unusual concentration. Few wines in the world have this red currant, licorice and bacon flavors, with Zin’s flavors—peaches, cranber- size, this ripeness, this dramatic volume. New oak peppery spiciness. The alcohol is high, so drink ries, cherries soaked in rum. Round and full, is in keeping with the proportion of fruit, and the carefully, but that’s what it took to make a wine quite delicious and yet focused into a finish with tannins are strong and hard, as they tend to be this distinctive. —S.H. persistent, ageworthy tannins, this will be hard to from this vineyard, which sprawls across Atlas keep in the cellar, but well worth it if you do. Peak. There seems to be no reason why this Tres Vinicul- Cellar Selection. —P.G. Cabernet should not develop over the years. 94 tores 2007 Hold until 2013, at the very least. Cellar Selec- The Treat Cabernet tion. —S.H. Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $75. Made from 100% Cab, and aged in 100% new French oak, it is, in a word, splendid. Rich in blackberries, cassis and dark chocolate, the Buehler 2007 Papa’s Knoll Caber- fruit was clearly well grown, and the tannin-acid 93 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $45. balance is utterly classic. This beautiful wine is a A really wonderful Cabernet, clearly grown well Migration 2009 Split Rail Vineyard partnership between three well-known and high- and well made. It has that plush, rich feeling you 94 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley); scoring vintners from other brands. It is a winery want in a Cabernet Sauvignon, with deliciously $45. This Chardonnay is defined by structural worth following. —S.H. ripe blackberry, black currant, cassis and dark qualities, such as linearity and angularity. This is chocolate flavors. Terrific now, and should age due to the joining of its minerality with acidity. for 4–6 years, if not longer. Editors’ Choice. — It’s a very elegant, drily austere wine, yet rich in S.H. grilled pineapple and buttered toast flavors. Should blossom slowly in the bottle over the next 6–7 years, one of the rare California Chardon- nays that can take some age. —S.H.

Rodney Strong 2007 94 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Val- ley); $75. Made from 100% Cabernet grown in a hilly part of William Fèvre 2008 Montmains the valley, this wine is tight and dry 94 Premier Cru Domaine Fèvre in tannins. It’s so astringent, it’s (Chablis); $38. A very taut wine. Yes, it has Efest¯e 2008 Eléni (Yakima nearly impossible to enjoy now. Yet richness and weight with ripe fruits, but the main 93 Valley); $36. This new offering from it’s extraordinarily rich and explo- character is dominated by a tense line of acidity, rising star Efest¯eis a wine of amazing grace, pol- sive in blackberry tart, black cherry of very crisp fruit and of an intense steely tex- ish and depth—a young wine with a dense core pie and cassis flavors, and feels dra- ture. For aging over 4–5 years. Imported by Hen- of berry fruit flavors, a wrapping of mineral and matic in the mouth. Should easily riot Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. steel, ripe and tightly wound tannins, and notes of improve over the next decade. Hold until 2013. coffee and graphite stacked through the long fin- Cellar Selection. —S.H. ish. Cellar Selection. —P.G.

4|WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Rodney Strong 2007 93 Brothers Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $75. This nearly 100% Cabernet is strongly flavored, bone dry, very tannic and nowhere near ready. It has a Joseph Carr 2008 Reserve tough, astringent mouthfeel, and 93 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); $23. the concentrated richness of Big and flamboyant, an impressive Chardonnay grapes grown on low-yielding hill- Bella 2008 Big River Ranch Petite whose flavors are explosive. Tangerines, blood sides. Intense flavors of blackber- 92 Sirah (Alexander Valley); $38. Clas- oranges and tropical fruits are massively enriched ries, black cherries, cassis, cola sic Petite Sirah from a warm climate, inky black, by sweet oak. Coastal acidity provides a fine, min- and herbs mark this fine, ageable soft in texture and explosively rich in tannins. erally backbone. A complex, delicious wine. wine. Don’t touch it before 2013, and it should Extravagant in the essence of ripe summer black- Don’t drink it too cold. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ride out many years beyond that. Cellar Selec- berries and cassis, with a meaty quality sur- tion. —S.H. rounded by plenty of sweet, charred oak. Drink this robust beauty now with beef stews, barbe- cued spareribs, or even dark chocolate. —S.H.

Bella 2008 92 Maple Vine- yards (Dry Creek Valley); $38. Unmistakably Zinfandel, La Crema 2009 Chardonnay and Dry Creek at that, 93 (Sonoma Coast); $22. Rich and unc- with its robust texture, tuous, with a viscous, glyceriney texture holding William Fèvre 2008 Fourchaume firm tannins and briary, deep, opulent flavors of pineapples, lime custard, 93 Premier Cru (Chablis); $45. A beau- brambly flavors of wild clover honey, Mandarin orange and cinnamon tifully balanced wine, mixing an intense, nervy, summer berries, choco- spice. Lees treatment brings a creamy, slightly crisp fruit character with light wood flavors and late-covered raisins, red sourdough tang. Good price for a Chardonnay of the most piercing acidity. This is a serious wine, licorice and cola, liberally this quality. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. for aging over 3–5 years while retaining impecca- spiced with black pepper. ble fruit. Imported by Henriot Inc. —R.V. It’s a big, voluptuous wine that never loses its sense of balance and harmony. Drink now. — S.H.

Earthquake 92 2008 Petite Sirah (Lodi); $26. Not for everyone, this is the kind of Petite Sirah Quentin Tarantino would make if he made wine— La Crema 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian Arrowood 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- big, in your face and ulti- 93 River Valley); $40. This dramatically 92 gnon (Sonoma Valley); $35. Shut mately a fine, bold wine constructed Pinot wants time in the cellar. It’s down by hard tannins and utterly dry, this fine full of intense black olive dry, full-bodied and tannic, with bigtime cherry, young Cabernet is simply not ready to drink. It’s tapenade, chocolate and black raspberry, teriyaki beef and black pepper very rich in blackberries, smoked meat and tobacco, with a tannic, flavors, compounded with rich, smoky oak. The charred wood, with a finish that’s fine, long and peppery finish, a nod to its acidity is so acute, it will easily shepherd this wine sweet in ripe fruits. Should blossom after 2014 22 months spent in French oak. Juicy and meaty through 5–7 years of bottle aging. Cellar Selec- and hold for a number of years. Cellar Selec- and able to age another 5–7 years. Have some tion. —S.H. tion. —S.H. braised meat at the ready. —V.B.

WineMag.com | 5 BUYING I GUIDE

La Crema 2009 Pinot Noir (Mon- 92 terey); $24. A rich, vital, complex Pinot Hanzell 2008 Sebella Chardonnay Noir. Completely dry, with a savory scour of acid- Efest¯e 2008 Emmy (Wahluke 92 (Sonoma Valley); $36. Hanzell says ity, it treads a fine line between ripe cherries and 92 Slope); $36. Emmy is 70% Mourvèdre this Sebella Chardonnay is meant to drink now, pomegranates and earthier notes of mushrooms and 30% Syrah blend. The fruit expression is while their regular Chardonnay, which is and dried herbs. Lots of terroir in this fine wine, pure and powerful, an intense burst of raspberry famously ageable, develops in the cellar. That’s which will take a few years of bottle age. Edi- and cranberry, anchored in mineral and chalk. strange logic, because the wine is so close to the tors’ Choice. —S.H. Only neutral oak was used, so the fruit is framed regular Chardonnay as to be nearly indistinguish- beautifully by the acids and tannins, and it is so able. It’s bone dry, crisply acidic and minerally, pure and resonant that it is hard to believe that with citrus, green apple and pear flavors. Give it this wine won’t age beautifully for a decade or 3–5 years. —S.H. more. Cellar Selection. —P.G.

Marimar Estate 2009 Don Miguel 92 Vineyard Chardonnay-Albariño Flying Horse 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- Kendall-Jackson 2009 Jackson (Russian River Valley); $28. Is this the first 92 gnon (Napa Valley); $25. This is one 92 Hills Chardonnay (Santa Barbara Chardonnay-Albariño blend in California? of those “best kept secrets” that pop up from County); $25. Very fine Chardonnay, marked Maybe, and based on the wine, there should be time to time. The grapes come from the warm by brisk, racy acidity and a steely tang to the more. Shows Chardonnay’s cool-climate tanger- Pope Valley region, and the wine, made from free lemon, lime, white peach and honeysuckle fla- ine and green apple fruit, while the Albariño adds run juice, was aged in 55% new French oak. It vors. Very complex and lively, an alluring wine zesty acidity and a white flower, lemon tang. A has the feel and taste of Cabernets far more that will take a few years in the bottle. —S.H. brilliant wine to drink now. Editors’ Choice. — expensive. Almost overripe, it veers back at the S.H. last minute into pure, sweet blackberry essence. A great bargain, but only 317 cases were pro- duced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

Kendall-Jackson 2008 Vintner’s 92 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma-Napa); $18. A wonderfully good Marimar Estate 2008 La Masía Flying Horse 2005 Cabernet Sauvi- wine, especially at this price. Easily the best K-J 92 Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay 92 gnon (Napa Valley); $25. This is the Vintner’s Reserve ever. Inky black, full-bodied (Russian River Valley); $35. Marked by high kind of Cabernet that’s soft and accessible and dry, it houses rich, complex blackberry, plum acidity and stony minerals, this is an austerely ele- enough to drink now. It’s rich in blackberry, and smoky oak flavors, wrapped into finely gant Chardonnay. Its natural lime and Meyer cherry and spice flavors, with a sweet edge of ground, firm tannins. Run, don’t walk, to find this lemon flavors have been enriched with sweet oak. charred wood. Saved from mere simplicity by a affordable beauty. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Shows the pedigreed finesse of its chilly climate fine, firm tannic structure. Editors’ Choice. — estate origin. Drink now. —S.H. S.H.

6|WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Smith-Madrone 2008 Chardonnay Amici 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Château des Karantes 2008 La 92 (Spring Mountain); $30. Shows the 91 (Napa Valley); $35. Darker and richer 91 Clape Rouge (Coteaux du Langue- bone-dry, crisply acidic minerality of the winery’s than Amici’s second label (Olema), this is doc); $29. This La Clape red, made from 50% Chardonnays, a brisk, elegant wine whose com- anchored by ripe cassis and chocolate flavors. , 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, is dark plexities make it fascinating. The lemon and lime Cedary oak and minty accents add complexity, and herbal, with strong aromas of black berries and flavors are enriched with a touch of oak and lees. while the mouthfeel is velvety soft, finishing with plum guts supporting the notes of laven- Try aging for six years to experience an aged Cal- a touch of warmth. Probably best consumed over der, thyme and bay leaf. More dark fruit unfolds in ifornia Chardonnay. —S.H. the next few years. the mouth alongside sweet cigar spice and notes of bittersweet chocolate, almost like a spiced Black Forest cake. Big and hedonistic but silky and bal- anced; drink now–2014. Imported by Eagle Eye Imports. —L.B.

White Cottage Ranch 2008 Estate 92 Cabernet Franc (Howell Moun- tain); $40. A tremendous Cabernet Franc that Beresan 2007 The Buzz Yellow shows the intensely concentrated fruit and con- 91 Jacket Vineyard Red Wine (Walla siderable tannins of Howell Mountain. Explosive Walla); $19. There should be plenty of buzz Doña Paula 2007 Selección de in cherries, cherry liqueur and red currants, yet about The Buzz. Dense and dark, loaded with 91 Bodega Malbec (Mendoza); $40. for all the power, the wine has a dignified bal- black fruits, coffee grounds and ground pepper, Pure on the nose, with plenty of pop. Aromas of ance. A bit aggressive now. Give it 2–3 years to this high-alcohol, slightly volatile wine is not dark black cherry are tight and smoky, with min- calm down. —S.H. unlike some cult wines selling for four times the erality. Flavors of cola and wild-berry fruits are price. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. right on the money, and the feel is firm but deep and layered. Offers fine character and ageability. Charnu 2006 A blend of Malbec from three top ; 91 Cabernet Sauvi- drink through 2014. Imported by Trinchero Fam- gnon (St. Helena); $75. ily Estates. —M.S. Dry, dramatic and rich, a Cabernet whose authorita- Dry Creek Vineyard tive tannins mark it as clas- 91 2006 Endeavour Caber- sic Napa Valley. Beyond net Sauvignon (Dry Creek Val- that are ripe blackberry and ley); $60. The winery’s top wine, it White Cottage Ranch 2008 Estate cassis flavors that are liber- explores the uppermost possibilities 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell ally oaked. Needs some of Dry Creek Valley Cabernet. The Mountain); $55. Put this one in the cellar and time to come around, brusque tannins and briary, green forget about it for a good six years, if not far although you could drink it peppercorns are reminiscent of Zin- longer. It’s tannic and youthfully rude in fruity now with a good decant. But better 2013–2018. fandel, making the wine, despite flavor, and the oak barrel influence presently Cellar Selection. —S.H. elaborate blackberry and cassis fla- dominates. But it’s finely made and pure, showing vors, somewhat rustic. Yet it’s an its Howell Mountain roots, and should easily interesting rusticity, with lots of per- develop bottle complexity for many years. Cellar sonality, and certainly provides an Selection. —S.H. alternative to Napa’s soft lushness. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 7 BUYING I GUIDE

Efest¯e 2008 Ceidleigh Syrah (Red 91 Mountain); $36. Released quite Hanzell 2007 Pinot Noir (Sonoma young, this is a wine to decant. It’s big and dark 91 Valley); $95. Shows the dry tannins and tannic, tight as a tick, with grainy, textural and astringency of youthful Hanzell, but these La Jota 2007 Heritage Release tannins wrapped heavily around tart blue and Pinot Noirs are famously capable of extended 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell purple berries. Though the flavors are pure aging. Tastes almost rustic now, with a deep core Mountain); $90. Dark as midnight in a moon- Syrah, the structure and density are Cabernet- of cherries and cola. The oak is unintegrated, fur- less sky, dry as dust, hard and astringent in tan- like, and though it’s a guess, the odds are this is a ther accentuating the wine’s immaturity. Needs nins. That’s the challenge this immature Cabernet wine to cellar for at least a decade. Cellar Selec- time. Better after 2013, and should develop for presents, which makes it difficult to appreciate tion. —P.G. an additional decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. now. However, it has deep, fine blackberry and cherry fruit flavors, and should have a good future. The score reflects the possibilities after 5–7 years of aging. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

La Crema 2009 Chardonnay (Mon- Efest¯e 2008 Jolie Bouche Syrah 91 terey); $20. Here’s a classically rich, 91 (Yakima Valley); $36. Inky black, barrel-aged Chardonnay. With a beautiful golden thick and juicy with a mélange of berry flavors. color, it brims with pineapple, golden mango and Laced around the voluptuous fruit are threads of lemon custard flavors, enhanced with bright, cit- dark chocolate, and the wine seamlessly moves rusy acidity. Very fine and classy, at a great price. MacLaren 2008 Dry Stack Vine- into a finish with even darker notes of toast, char Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 91 yard Syrah (Bennett Valley); $35. and coffee grounds. For all of its power, it keeps A classy Syrah that builds in real complexity, the alcohol in the mid-14% range, with no burn despite the wine’s immediate drinkability. Dry at all. —P.G. and medium-bodied, its smooth, plush tannins frame flavors of blackberries, cola, beef jerky, black pepper and smoky sandalwood. Ready now. —S.H.

La Crema 2009 Chardonnay (Russ- 91 ian River Valley); $30. Dry, racy and clean. Shows real class, with plenty of zesty Envy 2009 Sauvignon Blanc lemon and lime acidity, brightening the citrus, Martin Ray 2009 Bald Mountain 91 (Yountville); $23. A rich, complex lemongrass, white peach and mineral flavors. 91 Reserve Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Sauvignon Blanc worth the price. You can taste Production was 3,500 cases. —S.H. Mountains); $30. Opulent, brimming with the oak and lees influences in the buttermilk delicious pineapple custard, green apple pie, but- cream and smokiness, but the lemon, lime and tered toast, vanilla cream and cinnamon spice fla- white peach flavors really star. Editors’ Choice. vors. Bright acidity provides all the balance this —S.H. delightful Chardonnay needs. —S.H.

8|WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Tikalo 2004 Kios Elite 91 ( de Castilla); $27. Sinclair Estate 2009 Chardonnay Earthy and rich Tempranillo with hints of fresh Zuccardi 2009 Q Malbec (Men- 91 (Columbia Valley); $28. Young and herbs, tomato, balsam wood and spice in addi- 91 doza); $20. A home run in middle-tier still integrating its lush barrel flavors, this savory tion to roasted plum on the bouquet. The palate Malbec. Excellent power and balance are on dis- Chardonnay should hit its peak in another two or is tannic and big but shows a ton of fruit and play. It’s firm, minerally and tight, but with gener- three years. The fruit is full and fleshy, a generous classy flavors of roasted berry, dark chocolate, ous berry and cassis aromas and flavors along mix of citrus, stone and tropical fruits. Creamy licorice and dried spices. Heady on the finish and with ample coffee, spice and mocha qualities. and nicely textural in the mouth, it has the grip aggressive, but loaded with flavor, kick and qual- Impressive, especially given the price tag; drink and acidity to keep it poised and detailed through ity. Drink now through 2014. Imported by Bour- now through 2014. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. a long finish. —P.G. geois Family Selections. —M.S. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.

Amici 2007 Olema Cabernet Sonoma-Cutrer 2009 Chardonnay White Oak 2006 Syrah (Napa Val- 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $20. 91 (Sonoma Coast); $24. You can feel 91 ley); $26. A big, dry, immature wine, Nicely balanced, with cedar, mint and cherry and taste the cool weather during this vintage in firm in acids and tannins, whose strong black notes presented in a medium-bodied format. It’s the citrusy acids, steely minerals and sleek, pepper notes add to its tart pungency. Under- on the crisp side for Napa Cabernet, with red streamlined flavors of Meyer lemons and nec- neath all that are immaculate blackberry and fruit and chocolaty oak combining on the slightly tarines. Barrel fermentation adds needed rich- roasted meat flavors. Impressive for the price, tart finish. Drink it over the next few years with ness. Good price for a dry, sophisticated and should develop bottle complexity over the steak and be happy. Editors’ Choice. Chardonnay. —S.H. next six years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

Argento 2009 Reserva Malbec Sonoma-Cutrer 2009 Russian 90 (Mendoza); $16. Argento has found its 91 River Ranches Chardonnay Yalumba 2009 (Eden Val- calling with this wine, by far the best to date from (Sonoma Coast); $40. This Chardonnay, a 91 ley); $20. Shows all the beautiful Viog- this label. It’s deep and pure, with raisin, black- blend of various coastal vineyards, is marked by nier notes you could ask for: flowers, spice, berry, spice and vanilla on the nose. Super solid high acidity and great dryness. It is emphatically apricot and melon, carried by a succulent mouth- and lush, with layered flavors of jammy berry, cof- not a soft, honeyed fruit gusher. The sleek miner- feel that remains fresh and vibrant from start to fee and chocolate. Holds all its form on the finish; ality and elusive citrus fruit flavors have just the lingeringly spicy finish. Drink now. Imported by excellent vino for the dollar. Imported by Lion right touch of buttery, toasted oak. Drink now. Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Nathan USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice —M.S. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 9 BUYING I GUIDE

Bella 2008 90 Two Patch Zinfandel (Alexan- der Valley); $38. Made from two old-vine vineyards, this Zin is soft, high in alcohol, sweet in glycerine and fabulously rich in berry, La Crema 2009 Pinot Noir chocolate, currant, 90 (Sonoma Coast); $25. Rich berry- licorice and dusty spice Dry Creek Vineyard 2007 Cabernet cherry, cola and raspberry fruit flavors mark this flavors. There’s nothing 90 Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley); $25. young wine. It’s dry and stylishly elegant, and quite like it in the This excellent wine, which is made from the five shows a certain aloof complexity. Almost rustic in world. Drink it now classic Bordeaux varieties, shows the briary, tannic scoury acidity and tannins, but it could develop with lusty barbecue or, for something different, quality of Dry Creek Valley red wines. It’s a lusty, bottle finesse in another 2–3 years. —S.H. Szechuan beef. —S.H. complex sipper with quite a lot of character and personality, and should provide good drinking over the next six years or so. —S.H.

Langlois-Chateau NV Brut (Cré- Burgess 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 mant de Loire); $27. An impressive, 90 (Napa Valley); $38. Here’s a good full and ripe wine, with dryness and fruitiness Cabernet for drinking now and over the next five Guglielmo 2007 Private Reserve balanced with more complex mineral and tang. years. It shows classically ripe, smooth Napa tan- 90 Estate Grown Petite Sirah (Santa Delicious and finely made. Imported by Terlato nins that frame exuberant flavors of blackberries, Clara Valley); $25. A dusty, plummy, dark Wines International. —R.V. black cherries and cassis. Give it a good long berry pie Petite Sirah from old vines grown in decant before serving. —S.H. the Santa Clara Valley by the Guglielmo family, who have been based here since 1925. With lots of bittersweet chocolate, white pepper and well- integrated oak, this Petite is subtle, its alcohol relatively low and its tannins quite refined, a Petite for French palates. —V.B.

Martin Ray 2007 Reserve Caber- 90 net Sauvignon (Diamond Moun- tain); $50. A good, classy Cabernet that should develop some bottle complexity in the cellar. It’s Cass 2009 Rockin’ One Rous- dry and elegant in Napa tannins, with intensely 90 sanne- (Paso Robles); concentrated blackberry and cassis flavors. Too $32. Richness and opulence characterize this strong to drink now, unless you don’t care about white Rhône blend of and Marsanne, Kendall-Jackson 2008 Vintner’s subtlety. Try giving it 4–6 years. —S.H. which is easily Cass’s best ever. It’s delicous in 90 Reserve (Sonoma County); vanilla cream-accented Mandarin orange and $18. A fine, complex Merlot, appealing for its honey flavors, with a tang of minerality. The alco- array of cherry, smoked meat, balsam, soy and hol is high, yet the wine maintains exquisite bal- pepper flavors. Shows lots of class and finesse for ance and poise. —S.H. the price. Easy to find, with production of more than 50,000 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Martin Ray 2007 Reserve Caber- Smith-Madrone 2009 Broadbent 2009 Malbec (Men- 90 net Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Moun- 90 (Spring Mountain); $27. With 12.9% 88 doza); $16. This new wine from tains); $45. Shows the intense concentration of alcohol, this Riesling is absolutely dry and fasci- importer Bart Broadbent offers cherry, raspberry mountain-grown grapes and the acidity of a cool- natingly complex. High acidity frames citrus fruit, and plum aromas along with a touch of well- climate vineyard. The combination yields this green apple and mineral flavors. Should develop applied oak. It’s a little tannic and biting in the robust young Cabernet Sauvignon. With potent in interesting ways over the next six years. —S.H. mouth, but with food that should be no issue. blackberry and mineral flavors, it could develop Flavorwise, it’s dealing slightly burnt notes atop for up to six years in the cellar. —S.H. full-fledged black cherry and wild berry. A firm, edgy wine with many good qualities. Imported by Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S.

White Cottage Ranch 2008 Estate Robert Oatley 2010 Gewürz- 90 Merlot (Howell Mountain); $40. A 90 traminer (Mudgee); $24. This wine wine of considerable power and impact. Feels bursts from the glass with smack-you-in-the-face explosive and weighty in the mouth, with mas- Joseph Drouhin 2007 Rully; $20. Gewürz aromas of roses, ginger and lychee, and sive cherry, berry and currant flavors that finish 88 White Rully is one of the unsung values doesn’t let up on the palate. It’s full and a bit vis- hard and astringent. Shows its finesse in the qual- of Burgundy. This soft, attractive ripe wine is a cous without getting blowsy, with lingering spice ity of tannins and overall balance. An impressive pleasure to drink. It has a buttery, toast character notes on the finish. An exciting development Merlot that should develop some bottle charac- along with crisp acidity, delicious apricot fruit and from a virtually unknown viticultural area. Drink teristics over the next 4–5 years. —S.H. a mouthwatering aftertaste. Imported by Drey- now. Imported by Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. fus, Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.

Yalumba 2010 Made with Organic Running with Bulls 2009 Tem- 90 Grapes Viognier (South Australia); Highway 12 2008 Merlot-Caber- 90 pranillo (Barossa); $20. A Yalumba $16. This represents a top value among Viog- 87 net Sauvignon-Syrah-Petite Ver- project, Running with Bulls sources Tempranillo niers, which often carry a price tag loftier than dot Malbec (Sonoma County); $18. With from several subregions of the Barossa under the their quality deserves. Not so in this case; the its vibrant, primary fruit flavors and gritty tan- stewardship of winemaker Louisa Rose. The oak variety’s floral aromas are well displayed, backed nins, it tastes like a wine to age, except that it here is subtle and well integrated, adding hints of by hints of melon, apricot and gingery spice. It’s won’t develop—it doesn’t have the overall bal- vanilla and spice to the black cherry and plum fairly full bodied, with a slightly viscous texture ance. So give it a good airing, and enjoy the array flavors. It’s full-bodied and richly textured, yet that extends the warm finish. Drink now. of blackberries, cherries, bacon and sweet oak soft and welcoming. Imported by Negociants Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’ now. Pretty good price for a wine this interesting USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Choice. —J.C. and well-crafted. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 11 BUYING I GUIDE

Robert Oatley 2010 SPIRITS SPIRITS 87 of (Mudgee); $16. Coming in at just under 13% alcohol, this is a dry, Provence-styled rosé marked by crisp strawberry and citrus flavors. Ending on a refreshing, slightly chalky-mineral note, this would make a fun summer sipper. Imported by Robert Oatley Vine- yards Inc. —J.C.

Corzo Tequila Silver (Mexico; Familia Camarena Reposado 93 Tequila Cazadores, Seal Beach, 94 Tequila (Mexico; Alto Spirits, Hay- CA); 40% abv, $48. A clean, lean Tequila ward, CA); 40% abv, $20. This is a full-bod- with an herbal, grassy scent and soft feel. The ied, lush Tequila with honey sweetness and a big spirit has a neutral flavor with a mineral note butterscotch finish beneath a fine veil of smoke. and finishes with agave sweetness. Good value.

Angeline 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir 86 (Sonoma County); $18. Here’s a good, simple Pinot Noir with some extra qualities to recommend it. It’s dryish and silky, with rich raspberry, cherry, vanilla and smoky oak flavors, brightened by fine acidity. —S.H.

Corzo Tequila Añejo (Mexico; Añejo Hornitos (Mexico; Sauza 92 Tequila Cazadores, Seal Beach, 93 Tequila, Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, CA); 40% abv, $57. Inside the striking rectan- $40/1 L. This nut-brown aged Tequila almost gular bottle, this spirit has a golden, sunny color smells like Cognac, featuring rich raisin, fig, and sweet aromas like vanilla custard and baked honey and toffee aromas. Rich, deep caramel fla- pears drizzled with honey. Mellow and elegant, vor with a peppery finish. Mouthwatering. with warm honey, agave and flavors and just a wisp of smoke on the finish.

Gérard Bertrand 2009 Réserve 86 Spéciale Viognier ( d’Oc); $15. Ripe and rich without being over- done, this is a well-balanced Viognier with stone fruit and Anjou pear flavors lifted by accents of peony and orange rind. Vibrant acidity keeps things lively in the mouth, with a refreshingly crisp finish. Imported by Gerard Bertrand USA. —L.B. Casa Noble Tequila Reposado 93 (Mexico; Wilson Daniels, St. Corzo Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Helena, CA); 40% abv, $50. Handsome, 92 Tequila Cazadores, Seal Beach, gift-worthy blue-and-silver bottle. Inside, the CA); 40% abv, $53. Golden. Sweet, vanilla- spirit is light amber and scented with caramel custard nose. Sweetness at first, then it turns and a peppery undercurrent. This triple-dis- smoky, some caramel and oaky notes. It has a tilled spirit has a smooth texture and a mild light, even malleable feel. It would meld very honey flavor with a long smoky finish chased well in a cocktail with lime juice and a sweet by faint caramel notes. liqueur or juices. Elegant rectangular bottle.

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 SPIRITS SPIRITS BESTBUYS

Kopriva 2009 Cassidy Ranch 90 Chardonnay (Carneros); $15. Made without oak, one of the rare Carneros Chards that Tres Generaciones Plata (Mexico; Familia Camarena Silver Tequila hasn’t seen wood, this wine also never underwent 92 Sauza Tequila Import Company, 88 (Mexico; Alto Spirits, Hayward, . That means what you Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, $35. A classic and CA); 40% abv, $20. Sweet scent, with just a get is pure Carneros fruit and acidity. And how refreshing blanco profile: pear-like scent and puff of smoke. Sweet and earthy, with a clean the green apple, peach and pineapple fla- crisp, dry, lightly peppery flavors. Mix this jalapeno-like snap and a dry finish. vors are. A true delight, at a good price. Best Tequila into Paloma cockails. Buy. —S.H. BESTBUYS

Beresan 2008 Sémillon (Walla Zuccardi 2009 Serie A Bonarda Tres Generaciones Añejo (Mexico; 90 Walla); $15. This canary yellow Sémil- 90 (Mendoza); $15. Deep, compact and 91 Sauza Tequila Import Company, lon is always estate grown and 100% . An rich on the nose, with a big dose of ripe berry Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, $40. This light, imposing 14.2% alcohol, this exudes a complex aromas. The palate is healthy and blends a beefy, perfumy añejo is scented with floral, apple and bouquet of beeswax, lemon curd and honey. Rich muscular body with balancing acids and firm but peach notes. On the tongue, look for lots of and thick, yet dry and persistent, it brings ripe tannins. Tastes pretty and sweet, like black- agave flavor and a lightly smoky finish. together suggestions of grain, citrus and tropical berry or plum pie. Chewy and chocolaty on the fruits. Best Buy. —P.G. finish; overall it’s a winner. Imported by Wine- sellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.

Kendall-Jackson 2009 Avant 90 Chardonnay (California); $14. A Tres Generaciones Reposado new category of Chardonnay introduced this year Gauchezco 2010 Torrontés (Men- 90 (Mexico; Sauza Tequila Import by Kendall-Jackson, and likely to eventually com- 89 doza); $14. With its tropical melony Company, Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, $38. pete with its best-selling Vintner’s Reserve. The aromas and crisp palate, this comes across as This is a refreshing take on resposado. Fresh, wine is slightly sweet in pineapple, orange and rock-solid Torrontés. It’s tight and tastes of lime tart green-apple scent and a bright, peppery vanilla honey flavors, with the crisp acidity that and pineapple. There’s an exactness to this wine, flavor fades into oaky vanilla notes. A light comes from coastal grape sourcing. The wine has sort of like savoring a perfect lime. Not compli- alcohol bite braces up the spirit. better structure and is somewhat more minerally cated but very satisfying; drink immediately for and elegant than the Vintner’s Reserve. Best maximum freshness. Imported by Cellarthief, Buy. —S.H. LLC. Best Buy. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 13 BUYING I GUIDE BESTBUYS BESTBUYS BESTBUYS

Yalumba 2010 The Y Series Viog- 88 nier (South Australia); $12. Even Oxford Landing 2009 Viognier Bota Box 2009 Malbec (Lodi); toward the lower end of the range, Yalumba’s 87 (South Australia); $10. Yes, it is possi- 88 $19/3L. In a recyclable box equalling retain the variety’s hallmark overt floral ble to find real Viognier character for $10 per bot- four normal-size wine bottles, this Malbec is a and spice aromatics. This is less conentrated and tle (conceivably $6 by the glass). Featuring ample mighty fine deal, clean and refreshingly made intense than some of the winery’s other bottlings, fruit balanced by crisp acids, this is very drinkable with bright plum fruit, very easy drinking all but it’s still a fresh, nicely balanced wine that’s a stuff. This wine’s modest pear and apricot aromas around. Best Buy. —V.B. good introduction to Viognier. Drink now. lack some of the flamboyance of top examples, Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. Best Buy. but this is still a very good effort. Imported by —J.C. Negociants USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.

Las Vides 2010 Torrontés 88 (Famatina Valley); $12. Crisp and Castillo de Monséran 2009 Silver Santa Julia 2009 Reserva Malbec clean, with lemon-lime and lychee aromas that 87 Label Garnacha (Cariñena); $12. 87 (Mendoza); $12. Bold Malbec with are typical and well presented. There’s body to Just makes it to that next level of quality via aromas of berry liqueur, cassis and black cherry. the wine but also streamlining acidity, resulting in bright, jumpy, fresh aromas and flavors of rasp- The palate is fresh in feel, with some edginess a slick, smooth mouthfeel. Flavors of green berry and cherry. It’s a simple varietal Grenache and snappy acids. Tastes full of berry fruit, melon, citrus and lychee are fresh and positive. that’s bright and easy to like if you’re into zesty creamy oak and vanilla, while the finish is round, Imported by ADS Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. raspberry and berry flavors uplifted by spunky lengthy and big. A little oaky and forced, but nice acidity. Best with a little chill on the temperature. as Malbec goes. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. Best Buy. —M.S.

De Bortoli 2008 DB Family Selec- Tikalo 2009 Albaliza Tempranillo- 87 tion Petite Sirah (South Eastern 87 Garnacha (Tierra de Castilla); $9. Trivento 2010 Reserve Torrontés Australia); $9. Made in a soft, user-friendly Dark on the nose, with licorice notes and mildly 88 (Mendoza); $11. Hits the stage with style, the 2008 DB Family Selection Petite Sirah roasted black fruit aromas. Ripe, properly sized lemon-lime, melon and flowery aromas that are offers up a flavorful mouthful of plum and baking and balanced, with lightly candied blackberry fla- followed by a crisp mouth with jousting acids, spices. It’s medium-bodied, with a silkiness to the vors leading to a smooth finish with a hint of cof- lime and tangerine flavors, and finally a crystal- structure that belies the grape variety, yet that fee. For the price and origin, it’s right on. clear finish with zest and length. Very nice for same softness makes it immediately appealing. Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. Best this variety; drink right away. Imported by Banfi Drink now. Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA Buy. —M.S. Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 BESTBUYS BESTBUYS BESTBUYS

Yalumba 2010 The Y Series Pinot Bodega Norton 2010 Torrontés 87 Grigio (South Australia); $12. This 86 (Mendoza); $10. The nose is like a Barton & Guestier 2010 Reserve appealing wine’s melon and pear aromas and fla- glass of fresh-poured Sprite but without the 85 Chardonnay (Vin de Pays d’Oc); vors might seem a little simple at first, but there’s burning fizz. The palate has a cidery feel and $8. The B&G line doesn’t disappoint in value, an appealing hint of white pepper chasing through direct flavors of lime, green apple and not fully and here you get a delicious Chard for under $10. it that adds dimension to the fruit. Broad on the ripe pineapple. Finishes a little pithy and bitter, Vibrant tropical fruit, melon, and peach fill the palate, with soft acids. Drink now. Imported by with some of Torrontés’ notorious burn. Good round mouth, and though the finish is short it is Negociants USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. Torrontés for immediate drinking. Imported by also clean. Drink now. Imported by Barton & T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. Guestier. Best Buy. —L.B.

Backhouse 2009 Pinot Grigio (Cal- Caligiore 2009 Staccato Made 86 ifornia); $6. A good buy for a white 86 with Organically Grown Grapes Barton & Guestier 2009 Reserve wine that’s dry, clean and crisply acidic. The fla- Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza); 85 Merlot (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $8. With vors are fine, of lemons, limes and tart Mandarin $10. Dusty cherry and raspberry aromas give 15,000 cases imported, this should be an easy oranges. Best Buy. —S.H. this wine a clean, inviting opening. The palate is a wine to find and at such a price. Standard but touch clacky due to choppy tannins, but the fla- easily enjoyable with notes of black plum, dark vors of red cherry, plum and red licorice, while cherry and fruitcake spice throughout. Drink narrow in scope, are perfectly nice and tasty. Sort now. Imported by Barton & Guestier. Best Buy. of generic but a good blend of 60% Malbec and —L.B. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Imported by Marquee Artisan Wines. Best Buy. —M.S.

Bodega Norton 2010 Cosecha Tar- 86 dia Late Harvest Chardonnay (Mendoza); $10. For a sweet Chardonnay, this Portillo 2009 Estate Bottled Pinot is good and enticing. The nose is clean, with Les Jamelles 2009 Chardonnay 85 Noir (Uco Valley); $10. Here’s a crisp peach, melon and honeyed aromas. The palate is 86 (Pays d’Oc); $11. Fresh apple, green by-the-glass style of Pinot that’s bringing good balanced and smooth, with a good blend of stick- grass, dandelion and a touch of soft smoke cherry and raspberry aromas, mild spice notes, iness and acidity. Tastes only slightly candied, emanate from the glass, transitioning to flavors and then a firm but lean body with plenty of acid- with melon and mango flavors. A good dessert- of gingered peach and spicy orange on the palate. ity to propel crisp, cutting flavors of red plum and style Chard in a field that doesn’t have many play- Medium weight and well structured with nice tart berry. Light and sheering but not sour or too ers. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. complexity and evolution. Drink now. Imported thin. Imported by Palm Bay International. Best —M.S. by Cellar Door Selections. Best Buy. —L.B. Buy. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 15 BUYING I GUIDE

BESTBUYS blackberry, vanilla and chocolate flavors. Finishes Altos Las Hormigas 2008 Reserva warm and oaky; from a mediocre vintage, it’s 90 Malbec (Uco Valley); $25. On the oaky impressive. From the Chilean Huneeus family and side, with toasty aromas of stacked wood, smoke top-flight winemaker/consultant Alvaro Espinoza. and black fruits lurking below the surface. The Drink now through 2013. Imported by Huneeus palate has the typical piercing juiciness of the 2008 Vintners. —M.S. vintage, with bursting flavors of pie cherry and raspberry. Minty and oaky on the finish, with Bodega Renacer 2007 Renacer R snappy finishing acidity. Drink now through 2012. 91 Malbec (Mendoza); $70. Powerful Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. from the beginning, with depth of fruit to the nose Oxford Landing 2010 Pinot Grigio as well as floral notes. The palate is a bit more sim- Antigal 2008 Uno Malbec (Men- 85 (South Australia); $10. This medium- ple than I expected; it’s fresh and properly acidic 90 doza); $20. Condensed and dark on the bodied Pinot Grigio blends underripe pear notes but the flavors of berry and black cherry are jammy bouquet, with initial hard, cheesy aromas giving with hints of nasturtium and flintiness, while a and there seems to be a hint of overripeness to the way to herbal berry scents that suggest thyme and hint of bitterness emerges on the finish. Overall, wine. Still, it’s a dark, lusty Malbec with purity and rosemary. The palate is soft and chubby, with just it’s clean, correct and refreshing. Imported by nice touches of vanilla, mocha and coffee. Drink enough structure to make the earthy, ripe berry fla- Negociants USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. now. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. vors taste better than simply big and bulky. Fin- ishes with a light bitterness. Drink now Don Manuel Villafañe 2008 Reserva through 2012. Imported by Alliance. —M.S. 91 Malbec (Mendoza); $19. More “red” in style, with medicinal cherry and raspberry aromas Argento 2009 Reserva Malbec leading to a fresh, racy palate with tons of cherry and 90 (Mendoza); $16. Argento has found its plum flavor along with a hint of cola and cough drop. calling with this wine, by far the best to date from Clean and lithe on the finish, with no excess weight or this label. It’s deep and pure, with raisin, black- oak. The real deal in terms of freshness and purity of berry, spice and vanilla on the nose. Super solid fruit. Drink now through 2013. Imported by William and lush, with layered flavors of jammy berry, cof- Harrison Imports. —M.S. fee and chocolate. Holds all its form on the finish; excellent vino for the dollar. Imported by Lion Doña Paula 2007 Selección de Nathan USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Barton & Guestier 2009 Reserve 91 Bodega Malbec (Mendoza); $40. 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Vin de Pays Pure on the nose, with plenty of pop. Aromas of dark Pascual Toso 2008 Alta Reserve Las d’Oc); $8. This wine is quite the bargain, offer- black cherry are tight and smoky, with minerality. Fla- 90 Barrancas Vineyards Malbec ing nice fruit and spice for under $10. Simply vors of cola and wild-berry fruits are right on the (Maipú); $35. Slightly dry and scratchy on the structured with soft tannins, juicy black currant money, and the feel is firm but deep and layered. nose, and definitely fully oaked in the Toso style. and plum flavors all accented by a hint of pepper. Offers fine character and ageability. A blend of Malbec But once it settles deeper, black fruit notes escape. Drink now. Imported by Barton & Guestier. Best from three top vineyards; drink through 2014. The palate is snappy and juicy due to 2008’s cool Buy. —L.B. Imported by Trinchero Family Estates. —M.S. harvest conditions, and the flavors are a mix of plum, berry and woodiness. Long and oaky on the Zuccardi 2009 Q Malbec (Mendoza); finish; drink now through 2013. Imported by 91 $20. A home run in middle-tier Malbec. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. Excellent power and balance are on display. It’s firm, minerally and tight, but with generous berry and cassis Tempus Alba 2008 Malbec (Men- aromas and flavors along with ample coffee, spice and 90 doza); $20. Begins in chunky, jammy mocha qualities. Impressive, especially given the price fashion but soon it finds a classier groove. The tag; drink now through 2014. Imported by Winesellers berry aromas are big and inviting, while the palate Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. is smooth, cushioned and deep, with standard but attractive berry and black plum flavors. Long on Alpamanta 2007 Reserva Malbec the finish, with the sum exceeding each part. Broke Ass 2009 Red Wine (Men- 90 (Mendoza); $45. Opens with heavy, Imported by Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. 84 doza); $4. Crimson in color but also gaseous aromas but once it settles down it shows much translucent, with a candied, slightly green nose. better. The palate is warm and chunky, with full berry Bodega Vistandes 2005 Gradum Overall this is a simple quaffer with no excess flavors that come with a bit of earthy funk. Finishes 89 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza); $14. It’s weight and reasonably good flavors of berry and- lush and smooth, and while it’s a fine Malbec, I found not often that you get the chance to try an aged plum. Bland on the finish, but for $4 who’s caring that it comes up short on expression. Imported by Malbec for this price. The nose is sweet but also a about finish? Imported by Prestige Wine Group. William Harrison Imports. —M.S. bit soupy, while the palate is lively and delivering Best Buy. —M.S. mature flavors of stewed cherry, cassis and raisin.

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 THE WINE ENTHUSIAST Long on the finish, with brown sugar notes. A Broadbent 2009 Malbec (Men- BUYING GUIDE wine with finesse and restraint to drink now. doza); $16. This new wine from 88 The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new releases Imported by Belmont Select Wines. Best Buy. importer Bart Broadbent offers cherry, raspberry and selected older wines evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Maga- —M.S. and plum aromas along with a touch of well- zine’s editors and other qualified tasters. On a regular basis the Buying Guide includes reports on special tastings and the applied oak. It’s a little tannic and biting in the wines of specific producers. Regular contributors to our Buying Graffigna 2008 Centenario mouth, but with food that should be no issue. Guide include Senior Editor/ Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Tasting Coordinator 89 Reserve Malbec (San Juan); $13. A Flavorwise, it’s dealing slightly burnt notes atop Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa and rock-solid Malbec with attractive yet simple aro- full-fledged black cherry and wild berry. A firm, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner in New York, Euro- pean Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica mas of black cherry and raspberry. The palate is edgy wine with many good qualities. Imported Larner in Rome, Contributing Editor Steve Heimoff in Oak- juicy and fresh, but with enough body to provide by Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. land, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Con- tributing Reviewer Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. If a wine a sense of richnes. Forward tasting, with pure was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear berry flavors and a hint of chocolate. The perfect Coiron 2005 Oak Malbec (Maipú); following the note. When no initials appear, the wine was eval- wine for , or grilled meats. Imported $17. Baked and compact on the nose, uated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note 88 reflect the input of all tasters. by Pernod Ricard. Best Buy. —M.S. which is dark, rubbery and offers hints of smoked Each review contains a score, the full name of the wine, its meats. The palate has a rich, layered feel and suggested national retail price, and a tasting note. If price can- not be confirmed, $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices Nemesio 2009 Reserve Malbec robust flavors of baked black fruits, molasses, are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. 89 (Patagonia); $18. Lusty, deep Malbec caramel and toast. It’s warm, full and shows Old TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS from Patagonia. The nose is a puddle of rich World notes of tobacco and toffee. Drink now. Tastings are conducted individually or in a group setting and performed blind or in accordance with accepted industry prac- berry, spice and chocolate, while the palate is Imported by Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. tices. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, snappy and alert even if the flavors veer toward wines considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. roasted black fruits, sweetness, cola and sautéed Piattelli 2008 Grand Reserve Mal- ABOUT THE SCORES mushroom. A bit tannic and biting on the finish, 88 bec (Luján de Cuyo); $15. Rubbery Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular wine. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompany- with earth and oak standing out. Imported by and heady on first blush, with gaseous, leathery ing tasting note to learn about a wine’s special characteristics. William Harrison Imports. —M.S. aromas that initially cloud the wine’s fruit compo- Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. nents. With time it evolves, showing dark cherry, Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Tapiz 2009 Malbec (Mendoza); raspberry and leathery flavors in front of an Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. 89 $15. Full, fresh and bright Malbec with herbal, persistent finish. A little choppy and Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; only the good stuff that has made this variety so inconsistent but still a very good Malbec from a often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- popular. The color is lusty, the aromas fruity and tough vintage. Imported by Vinocopia. —M.S. critical circumstances. clean, and the feel is forward with proper body Wines receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed. Benegas 2008 Juan Benegas Mal- and acids. Tastes like pure wild raspberry and SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS black cherry, with hints of vanilla and oak. 87 bec (Mendoza); $14. Opens with Editors’ Choice wines are those that offer excellent quality Appealing in every way. Imported by Vino Del blackberry aromas, earth and spice notes. There’s at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Sol. —M.S. a shock of core acidity to the palate that keeps the Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectible wine fresh and balanced. Flavors of black cherry and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designa- Viña El Cerno 2004 Limited and black currant are jammy and on the sweet tion does not mean that a wine must be stored to be enjoyed, 89 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza); $24. side, and the finish has a cookie dough quality but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bot- tle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Sweet up front, with a heaping of wood spice on along with lasting sweetness. Imported by Vias Best Buys are wines that offer a high level of quality in rela- top of raisin and baked berry aromas. This is a Imports. —M.S. tion to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for big, full-bodied mature wine with tannins that are determining Best Buys, but they are generally priced at $15 or less. still grabbing and flavors of roasted blackberry, Familia Cassone 2009 La Florencia SUBMITTING WINES FOR REVIEW dark plum and ingrained spice. Finishes long, 87 Malbec (Luján de Cuyo); $11. Wines should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing loca- toasty and sweet, with some heat and a distinct Opens with spicy, almost smoky dark fruit aro- tion as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to Tast- baked quality. Drink now. Imported by Casa Cor- mas, which are followed by a healthy palate with ing Coordinator Anna Lee C. Iijima at 914.345.9463 or email bello, LLC. —M.S. freshness, good berry flavors and a touch of [email protected]. There is no charge for sub- mitting wines. We make every effort to taste all wines submit- creamy oak that leans toward vanilla and lacticity. ted for review, but there is no guarantee that all wines Areo 2009 Malbec (Neuquén); Good all around, with depth and a solid mouth- submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the $15. Dark purple in color, with black- feel. Nice wine for the price. Imported by Bed- magazine. All wines must be accompanied by a submission 88 form, which may be downloaded from our Web site. berry and spice on a potent bouquet. The palate ford International. Best Buy. —M.S. LABELS is ripe and pure, with rich dark fruit flavors and Labels are paid promotions. and winery oak-driven chocolate notes. Finishes full, toasty, Four Aces 2009 Malbec (Men- representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, doza); $13. which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and peppery and smooth. Very nice and sturdy Mal- 87 Minty, chocolaty and oaky scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise bec for everyday drinking. Imported by Simone on the first, second and third takes. The palate is Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email International. —M.S. full and rich, with toasty, resiny flavors supporting [email protected]. big berry fruit notes and chocolate. Finishes dry Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com and with another wave of toasty wood character.

WineMag.com | 17 BUYING I GUIDE

Overly woody but also ripe and healthy. Imported flavors of red cherry, plum and herbs. Imported ing nicely right now. Imported by Fine Estates by Tastings Import Company. —M.S. by Belmont Select Wines. —M.S. From Spain. —M.S.

Ksana 2008 Malbec (Mendoza); Zarpado 2009 Malbec (Mendoza); Bodegas Caro 2009 Amancaya 87 $18. Floral on the nose, with reduced, 84 $6. A touch tough and stemmy on the 89 Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon dark aromas that suggest campfire and/or shoe pol- nose, but given the price it rates as positive. The (Mendoza); $20. A superripe style of Malbec ish. The palate has firm tannins and lots of extract, body is medium and friendly, while the flavors of blended with Cabernet. It’s dark as midnight, with a while the flavors of blackberry are both ripe and flo- raspberry and strawberry feature a peppery lush bouquet and palate that ooze bulky black fruit ral. Finishes spicy and dark, with coffee, licorice and accent. Finishes crisp and fresh. Imported by aromas and flavors. It’s compact, dense and sweet as anise flavors. More spicy than pure and fruity. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. sin, with black fruit marmalade and chocolate run- Imported by Vino Del Sol. —M.S. ning the flavor profile. Finishes syrupy and with café Ambiente 2009 Malbec (Men- mocha flavors. Flavorful to the max but a bit too soft Santa Julia 2009 Reserva Malbec 83 doza); $6. Slightly green and a touch to be considered excellent. Imported by Pasternak 87 (Mendoza); $12. Bold Malbec with mulchy. The palate offers a decent mix of red fruits, Wine Imports. —M.S. aromas of berry liqueur, cassis and black cherry. herbal flavors and leathery notes. Finishes salty and The palate is fresh in feel, with some edginess choppy, but overall it’s not a bad wine for the price. O. Fournier 2005 Syrah-Malbec and snappy acids. Tastes full of berry fruit, Imported by Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. 89 (Uco Valley); $14. Big, dark and mas- creamy oak and vanilla, while the finish is round, culine, with minty, chocolaty, robust aromas and lengthy and big. A little oaky and forced, but nice Barking Sheep 2009 Malbec (Men- plenty of residual oak. Calling this wine a “load” is as Malbec goes. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. 82 doza); $10. Gaseous and rubbery, with an understatment; it’s massive, with flavors of Best Buy. —M.S. leafy compost aromas. Flat, chunky and murky blackberry, gumball, cassis, pepper and mint. in the mouth, with soft, muddled fruit flavors and Finishes that way, too. A brawny wine that’s in its Soluna 2009 Premium Malbec a finish of syrup and leftover sweetness. Comes prime. Drink now through 2013. Imported by 87 (Mendoza); $19. Opens in hard fash- up short on character, quality and clarity. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. ion, with horseradish and additional bitter aro- Imported by Schwartz Olcott Imports. —M.S. mas eventually yielding to boysenberry and Carlos Basso 2009 Dos Fincas blackberry. The palate is chewy and comes with Fioravante 2008 Reserva Malbec 88 Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec firm tannins, and the flavors are a standard but 80 (Mendoza); $15. Smells a lot like (Mendoza); $13. Opens with mildly baked aro- nice mix of black fruits and mocha. Short and compost and green herbs. The palate is bitter, mas but there’s enough fresh fruit, fine herbs and sturdy on the finish. Imported by Matadorvino hard and stalky, with grassy flavors and a weedy lavender to make it inviting. The palate is narrow LLC. —M.S. finish. Tastes burnt out, like old coffee grinds and and tight but clean and lively, with herbal berry marginal berry fruit. Imported by Matadorvino flavors and plenty of power. Finishes long but Trivento 2009 Reserve Malbec LLC. —M.S. lean, with cleansing acids. Will go well with an 87 (Mendoza); $11. Quite bright, sweet array of foods. Imported by Southern Wine and fruity, with a hint of cherry candy and black- Group. Best Buy. —M.S. berry on the bouquet and then a juicy, fresh CABERNETS & BLENDS palate with mild chocolate, raspberry and proper Ruca Malen 2009 Yaquén Malbec- texture. For $11 this wine is more than compe- Mendel 2007 Unus (Mendoza); 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza); tent; it’s very good. 50,000 cases made. Imported 92 $40. Big, lush and tightly structured, $12. Bold, aggressive and fiery on the nose, but by Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. with cola and mocha aromas along with serious also loaded with berry and cherry aromas that are black fruit power and brightness. A pure and spunky and inviting. The palate has a pulpy, Toca Diamonte 2009 Malbec delicious Malbec-Cabernet wine with the full grapey feel that is apropos for the wine’s solid 85 (Mendoza); $4. Clean as anyone allotment of berry character, cola accents, dark plum and berry flavors. Slightly herbal on the fin- should reasonably expect given the almost spice and clarity. Drink now through 2014. ish courtesy of the Cab in this 50/50 blend. Good unheard-of price. It offers solid cherry and black- Imported by Vine Connections. —M.S. stuff for everyday usage. Imported by Opici berry flavors, while the mouthfeel is round and Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. totally inoffensive. Drink it now; cook with it; O. Fournier 2006 B Crux Red (Uco make a sangria with it. Just enjoy it. Imported by 90 Valley); $21. Very few Argentine wines Zorzal 2009 Reserve Cabernet Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. feature quality Tempranillo blended with Mal- 87 Sauvignon-Malbec (Tupungato); bec, but that’s what B Crux does and it’s a major $23. A lot of olive and leather give this wine’s Bodega Vistandes 2009 Alto Las reason why I like it so much. The 2006 vintage is nose a “green” personality that suggests lightly 84 Tacas Malbec (Mendoza); $10. deep, complete and smooth, with creamy, fresh cured tobacco and fresh herbs. The palate is big Rusty in color, with a mildly mulchy, leafy nose berry and mild leather aromas in front of friendly, and grabby, with herbal, roasted berry flavors that’s also slightly floral and smells of orange peel. easygoing raspberry and blackberry flavors. The along with coffee and spice notes. Layered but Zesty in the mouth, with a lean profile and tart oak is prominent but doesn’t overwhelm. Drink- firm on the finish, with a lasting tannic bite. 75%

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Cabernet with 25% Malbec. Imported by Casa Alma Mora 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- finish; overall it’s a winner. Imported by Wine- Corbello, LLC. —M.S. 84 gnon (San Juan); $11. Roasted sellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. cherry and rubber aromas comprise the nose. Bodega Vistandes 2005 Gradum The mouth has sharp acidity, which causes tang Alma del Sur 2009 Colección 86 Reserve Malbec-Cabernet Sauvi- and zestiness to go with standard blackberry and 89 Bonarda (Mendoza); $10. Clean and gnon (Mendoza); $14. Earthy and spicy on dark plum flavors. Other than the acidic sharp- full for starters, with big berry aromas and hints the nose, with tomato and raisin but also some ness, this is a solid everyday Cab. Imported by of freshly poured tar as well as minerality. The herbal green, which is likely attributable to the TasteVino Selections. —M.S. palate is pure and hits the nail on the head in 50% Cabernet in this Malbec-CS blend. Tame terms of feel. Flavors of blackberry and plum are on the palate, with tomatoey notes and dry rasp- Broke Ass 2009 Red Wine (Men- dark and generous. Finishes with pepper, berry flavors. Simple and pleasant but more 84 doza); $4. Crimson in color but also espresso and chocolate. Very good wine for the herbal and less exciting that Gradum’s straight translucent, with a candied, slightly green nose. price. Imported by Martin Scott Wines. Best ’05 Malbec. Imported by Belmont Select Wines. Overall this is a simple quaffer with no excess Buy. —M.S. —M.S. weight and reasonably good flavors of berry and plum. Bland on the finish, but for $4 who’s caring Altos Las Hormigas 2009 Colonia Caligiore 2009 Staccato made about finish? Imported by Prestige Wine Group. 89 Las Liebres Bonarda (Mendoza); 86 with Organically Grown Grapes Best Buy. —M.S. $10. Intense and extracted but also well bal- Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza); anced and smooth, with minerality and asphalt $10. Dusty cherry and raspberry aromas give Piattelli 2008 Grand Reserve on the nose. The palate mixes deep black fruit this wine a clean, inviting opening. The palate is 83 Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato); weight and flavors with snappy acids, and overall a touch clacky due to choppy tannins, but the fla- $15. A touch soupy and leafy on the nose, with a this is bright, bullish and full of berry and black vors of red cherry, plum and red licorice, while green element as well. The palate feel is clacky cherry along with chocolate. A ripe, satisfying narrow in scope, are perfectly nice and tasty. Sort and firm, with herbal berry and green finishing wine for the money. Imported by Michael of generic but a good blend of 60% Malbec and flavors. Better in terms of feel and structure than Skurnik Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Imported by Marquee flavors and aromas; a marginal Cab from a cool Artisan Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. year. Imported by Vinocopia. —M.S. Viña Santa Maria 2009 Bonarda 88 (Mendoza); $13. Earthy, rich and dry Portillo 2008 Estate Bottled Caber- Salvatore Principe 2008 Artist’s to begin with, and also a tiny bit herbal. The 86 net Sauvignon (Uco Valley); $10. 82 Collection Cabernet Sauvignon palate is firm, slightly rough and tannic, but as a Cola, black fruit and a pinch of green herbs (Cafayate); $10. Green and herbal, with a mix whole this is a very tasty wine with bold black define the bouquet on this solid bargain Caber- of jammy raspberry and weediness to the nose. cherry and blackberry flavors. Finishes quick and net. The palate has a good, healthy feel and fla- The palate feels heavy and grabby, while the fla- easy, and overall it’s likable and further proof that vors of roasted berry, pepper and cola. Finishes vor profile holds onto the bouquet’s herbal, toma- Bonarda from Mendoza can complement Mal- mildly minty yet juicy. Imported by Palm Bay toey quality. Overly peppery and green bec. Imported by Casa Corbello, LLC. Best International. Best Buy. —M.S. throughout. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. Buy. —M.S. —M.S. Rutini 2009 Trumpeter Malbec- Tilia 2009 Bonarda (Mendoza); 86 Syrah (Mendoza); $12. Opens with Finca Agostino 2007 Malbec- 86 $10. Smoky, spicy and a bit jammy on hard, rubbery, leathery aromas. In the mouth, it’s 82 Syrah (Mendoza); $19. Heat and the nose; this Bonarda loads up on black fruits thick and chewy with black fruit but also an horseradish define the sharp, peppery bouquet. The and floral characteristics. It’s a good, honest inter- herbal edge. There’s depth and plenty of oak palate is tannic and grabby, with leafy red-fruit fla- pretation of the grape, and it’s a solid bet for pizza here, and it finishes sweet and relatively smooth. vors and an added dose of herbs and pepper. Fin- and burgers. A bit syrupy in the mouth and on Starts rough, improves in the middle, and then ishes medicinal and peppery. At this price it isn’t the finish, with a candied lushness that makes it finishes fairly well. Imported by Pasternak Wine shining. Imported by Admiral Imports. —M.S. soft in the long run. Imported by Winebow. Best Imports. —M.S. Buy. —M.S.

Tilia 2009 Malbec-Syrah (Men- BONARDA 86 doza); $10. Opens with soft black fruit MERLOT aromas, and later orange peel and floral notes Zuccardi 2009 Serie A Bonarda enter the picture. This is a ripe style of wine with 90 (Mendoza); $15. Deep, compact and Alberti 154 2009 Merlot (Tupun- body and heft. Blackberry, sweet black plum, rich on the nose, with a big dose of ripe berry 86 gato); $13. Slightly granular smelling chocolate and brown sugar control the flavor pro- aromas. The palate is healthy and blends a beefy, and seemingly oversized on the bouquet. In the file, and while it’s sweet and arguably confected, muscular body with balancing acids and firm but mouth it folds itself back into standard form, with overall it’s a solid blend of two hearty grapes. ripe tannins. Tastes pretty and sweet, like black- earthy, jammy flavors of wild berry and spice. Imported by Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. berry or plum pie. Chewy and chocolaty on the Seems a touch heavy and slightly green on the

WineMag.com | 19 BUYING I GUIDE finish, but overall it gets the job done. Imported and offers attractive dried flower aromas. The Nieto Senetiner 2009 Reserva by Southern Wine Group. —M.S. mouthfeel is pure, easygoing and slightly creamy, 83 Pinot Noir (Mendoza); $11. For- while the flavors suggest dried raspberry, plum ward and simple, with red fruit and citrus on the Finca Sophenia 2009 Reserve Mer- and vanilla for sweetness. Toasty and dry on the nose. The palate is lean and light bodied, with 85 lot (Tupungato); $18. A sturdy Merlot finish; elegant for Argentinean PN. Imported by tangy, dry red fruit flavors, orange and sour suck- with a black cherry-driven nose. The palate is kind of Pasternak Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. ing candy. Quite tangy on the finish, and overall it sticky and maybe a touch over the top in terms of its achieves only a certain level of weight and promi- syrupy feel and flavors. It’s a ripe and oaky wine with Cruz Alta 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir nence. No oak. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. a baked character and candied finishing flavors. Fla- 87 (Mendoza); $15. Warm and a touch vorful and full, but also sweet and sticky. Imported sweet smelling, with dried spices, brown sugar Salentein 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S. and roasted plum on the nose. The palate is 83 (Uco Valley); $19. Smells murky, leafy chunky, a touch viscous and slightly woody, but it and of compost. The palate is lean, dry and Rutini 2009 Trumpeter Merlot also brings full plum and berry flavors along with slightly rough, with green herb, tomato and light 85 (Mendoza); $12. Roasted dark fruit peppery spice. Finishes with solid cherry at the raspberry and strawberry flavors. Finishes herbal aromas form a generic opening, while the palate core and then more spice and pepper. Imported and tea-like, with more earthiness than clarity. is perfectly acceptable even with some scratchi- by Clock Tower Imports. —M.S. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.S. ness. The flavors are your basic berries and pep- per, while the finish is dry and toasty. Good but Manos Negras 2008 Pinot Noir Zorzal 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir regular, plain and simple. Imported by Pasternak 86 (Neuquén); $15. Mildly baked and 83 (Mendoza); $13. Dark and heavily Wine Imports. —M.S. raisiny on the nose, then more varietal in charac- extracted, with a big, rubbery, gaseous bouquet ter in the mouth. There’s sweet and spicy cherry that foretells the rest of the wine, which is herbal Verum 2009 Merlot (Río Negro as well as brown sugar flavors along with good and full-bodied, with baked plum and berry fla- Valley); $17. Somewhat jammy and 84 acidity and medium-bodied elegance that pushes vors. Finishes oaky, with drying tannins and heat. soupy on the nose, with a flavor profile that fol- the wine along. Basic on the finish, with a hint of Imported by Casa Corbello, LLC. —M.S. lows suit; it tastes slightly stewed and spicy, with lasting candied sweetness. Imported by Vino Del both sweet fruit flavors and some bitterness. Fin- Sol. —M.S. Cavas de Chacras 2008 Reserve ishes much like a soup or stew, with herbal, Pinot Noir (Mendoza); $12. Hot and earthy notes. Adequate but not super fresh or 80 Alpataco 2008 Pinot Noir (Patago- horsey, and it remains forced and clumsy in the fruity. Imported by Vino Del Sol. —M.S. 85 nia); $14. Smells largely neutral, with mouth. Tastes more sour than fruity, with a heavy, Viña Cobos 2009 Felino Merlot slightly earthy red fruit aromas. The palate is soft short, chunky finish. Drinkable only in an and creamy, what I’d call low in acidity, with mel- extreme situation. Imported by Casa Corbello, (Mendoza); $20. While I generally 84 low, mildly baked flavors of black cherry and LLC. —M.S. like and sometimes even love the Cobos wines, chocolate powder. Finishes full and plump, but this Merlot underwhelms. The nose is reedy and calls out to be drunk right away. Imported by stemmy, with earthy, herbal raspberry aromas. In the mouth, it’s scratchy and spicy, with herbal Ecosur Group, LLC. —M.S. SYRAH berry fruit leading to a mildly bitter finish. Better Portillo 2009 Estate Bottled Pinot Trivento 2008 Golden Reserve than in the past, but still a compromised wine Noir (Uco Valley); $10. Syrah (Mendoza); $24. due to its minty, green characteristics. Imported 85 Here’s a crisp 90 Big and by Paul Hobbs Winery. —M.S. by-the-glass style of Pinot that’s bringing good brooding on the nose, with blackberry, violet, cof- cherry and raspberry aromas, mild spice notes, fee and mineral aromas. The palate is smooth, and then a firm but lean body with plenty of acid- rich and silky, with sweet, pure, jammy black fruit PINOT NOIR ity to propel crisp, cutting flavors of red plum and flavors and a pinch of chocolaty bitterness for bal- tart berry. Light and sheering but not sour or too ance. Finishes warm and minty, with an added Alma Negra 2008 Pinot Noir thin. Imported by Palm Bay International. Best dusting of cocoa. Big and bold more than complex 88 (Mendoza); $30. Quite good and hon- Buy. —M.S. or elegant. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.S. est, with full raspberry, cherry and tea aromas along with a hint of grassiness. The palate is dark Familia Schroeder 2008 Saurus Trapiche 2008 Oak Cask Syrah and full-bodied, with toasty cherry and herbal tea 84 Select Pinot Noir (Patagonia); $17. 88 (Mendoza); $12. Fairly large, dark flavors. Finishes long, full and several steps ahead Opens with warm, baked black fruit aromas and and extracted, but also lush and rich, with aromas of most of the competition. Drink now. Imported then a wave of woodiness takes control. The of raisin and stewed blackberry. The palate is rich by Winebow. —M.S. palate is round, full and sticky, with beefy but to the point of almost being heavy, while the fla- generic black fruit flavors and too much oak. Fin- vors of blackberry and roasted black plum are Rutini 2009 Trumpeter Pinot Noir ishes with vanilla and resin; not a bad wine but mildly leathery and salty. Nice, big, meaty and 88 (Mendoza); $12. A big step up from needs more balance and fruit. Imported by Eco- tasty for the price. Imported by Frederick Wild- the prior year; the bouquet is spicy, dry, minerally sur Group, LLC. —M.S. man & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Four Aces 2009 Shiraz (Mendoza); overly earthy and dry. Imported by Mistica Wines Michel Torino 2010 Don David 87 $13. Hefty and fruity, with depth to the LLC. —M.S. 87 Reserve Torrontés (Calchaqui Val- black fruit nose. The palate is a bit sticky and tan- ley); $16. Lychee and lime are the lead aromas on nic, but it’s ripe and driving, with wild raspberry, this good Torrontés from Salta. The palate shows black plum, tea and spice flavors. Finishes a hint ARGENTINA bright, piercing acids and a narrow, citrus profile; herbal, but on the plus side the wine isn’t overex- flavors of orange and grapefruit follow suit. Citrusy tracted or too jammy and sweet. Imported by WHITE WINES on the finish, with ample roundness. Imported by Tastings Import Company. —M.S. TORRONTÉS Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. Bodega Norton 2007 Reserva Salvatore Principe 2010 Artist’s 86 Syrah (Mendoza); $20. Deep purple Don Manuel Villafañe 2010 Tor- 87 Collection Torrontés (Cafayate); rontés (La ); $12. A really good in color, with an inky nose that brings licorice and 90 $10. Nice, clean and friendly, which is about and clean with all the tropicality and jammy black fruit aromas. This is a lush, soft-bod- 99% of the game for this variety. Aromas of flow- zest that this Argentine variety can give. The nose ied style of Syrah with a meaty mouthfeel and ers, lychee and vanilla bean are welcoming, while is crystalline and pure, with white flower scents of candied, jammy flavors of blackberry and stewed the palate is fresh and standard, with lemon-lime jasmine and citrus blossom, while the palate is black cherry. Finishes sweet and chocolaty; could and citrusy flavors. A refreshing white to drink as round, melony and full of lychee and papaya. use a bit more structure and spine. Imported by soon as possible. Imported by Prestige Wine T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. Smooth on the finish. Drink soon. Imported by William Harrison Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. Group. Best Buy. —M.S. TEMPRANILLO Colomé 2010 Torrontés (Salta); Tamarí 2010 Reserva Torrontés (La 89 $15. Always one of Argentina’s best and 87 Rioja); $15. Light, clean aromas of melon and vanilla are pleasant and don’t over- Zuccardi 2007 Q Tempranillo more fuller-bodied Torrontés. It’s tropical and easy on the nose, with fleshy roundness and power. The palate is lucid and medium in weight, (Mendoza); $20. After not having 86 chunky flavors of melon and peach. Full in style, with green melon and ripe apple flavors. Lime seen this Tempranillo in several years, I’m with some extra weight to the finish. Best to drink and green apple carry the finish. Works well; reminded of why the variety is shaky at best in this as soon as you can, while it’s fresh and lively. drink immediately. Imported by Terlato Wines Argentina. This bottling, with its weight and obvi- Imported by Hess Collection. —M.S. International. —M.S. ous oak, is slightly raisiny on the nose and then big, cheesy and earthy on the palate. It has heft Gauchezco 2010 Torrontés (Men- Bodega Norton 2010 Torrontés but a wiry feel, and the finish is full of leather, doza); $14. With its tropical melony (Mendoza); $10. The nose is like a tobacco and dried fruit flavors. Drink now. 89 86 aromas and crisp palate, this comes across as glass of fresh-poured Sprite but without the Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. rock-solid Torrontés. It’s tight and tastes of lime burning fizz. The palate has a cidery feel and and pineapple. There’s an exactness to this wine, Septima 2007 Tempranillo (Luján direct flavors of lime, green apple and not fully sort of like savoring a perfect lime. Not compli- de Cuyo); $12. Sharp and leathery on ripe pineapple. Finishes a little pithy and bitter, 84 cated but very satisfying; drink immediately for the nose, with murky, leathery aromas. The palate with some of Torrontés’ notorious burn. Good maximum freshness. Imported by Cellarthief, Torrontés for immediate drinking. Imported by has a soupy but acceptable mouthfeel with fla- LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. vors of roasted, savory berry and tobacco. Seems T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. a little cooked and tired, but with just enough Las Vides 2010 Torrontés La Puerta 2010 Torrontés signs of life to make it worth a try. Imported by (Famatina Valley); $12. Crisp and 88 (Famatina Valley); $11. A touch Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. clean, with lemon-lime and lychee aromas that 86 chunky and oily on the nose, but for the most are typical and well presented. There’s body to part it smacks of tropical fruit and correct varietal Hinojosa 2007 Tempranillo (Men- the wine but also streamlining acidity, resulting in aromas. The palate is plump but healthy, with 82 doza); $11. Rubbery and gaseous, and a slick, smooth mouthfeel. Flavors of green frankly it’s just not very fresh or inviting. The melon, citrus and lychee are fresh and positive. mellow green melon and lemon-lime flavors. mouthfeel suggests astringency, while the flavors Imported by ADS Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. Standard but fine; drink now. Imported by Eco are salty and earthy but not very fruity. Finishes Valley. Best Buy. —M.S. with a leathery feel and tannic grab. Imported by Trivento 2010 Reserve Torrontés Davis Wine Imports. —M.S. 88 (Mendoza); $11. Hits the stage with Alma del Sur 2009 Torrontés lemon-lime, melon and flowery aromas that are 85 (Mendoza); $12. Mild citrus blossom Tempus Alba 2007 Tempranillo followed by a crisp mouth with jousting acids, and a hint of mineral make for an average, quiet 82 (Mendoza); $20. Cheesy and way too lime and tangerine flavors, and finally a crystal- nose. The palate is equally standard, with midland earthy and murky to be rewarded with anything clear finish with zest and length. Very nice for white fruit flavors and green melon. Soft, light and higher than an acceptable rating. The feel is this variety; drink right away. Imported by Banfi short on the finish. Drink now or wait for the 2010. scratchy and raw, while the flavors seem roasted, Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. Imported by Martin Scott Wines. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 21 BUYING I GUIDE

La Vuelta 2010 Torrontés (Men- SB for bargain shoppers. It’s soft and simple, with ers. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. 85 doza); $7. Dusty and subdued on the white fruit aromas and a touch of orange blos- —M.S. nose, but still friendly and varietally correct, with som on the nose. The palate is easy in feel, with lychee and melon aromas. The palate is chunky, mild citrus flavors. Innocuous as they come. Cruz Alta 2010 Reserve Chardon- maybe a touch flatter than ideal, with citrus and Imported by Tastings Import Company. Best 84 nay (Mendoza); $15. Orange blos- lychee flavors. Finishes in regular fashion, with a Buy. —M.S. som and other common white fruit aromas make pinch of bitterness and white pepper. Imported for a standard, generic type of bouquet. The by Clock Tower Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. Luigi Bosca 2010 Reserve Sauvi- palate is regular in feel and weight, with shy fla- 84 gnon Blanc (Maipú); $21. A chunky vors of melon and apple. Entirely middle of the Pietro Marini 2010 Torrontés style of SB with apple and green melon aromas. road in aromas, body, feel and flavors. Imported 83 (Cafayate); $13. Seems slightly mealy The palate is a bit soft and mealy, while the fla- by Clock Tower Imports. —M.S. on the nose, and then comes a tired set of flavors vors revolve mostly around lemon. It’s also pithy, that includes mushy apple and spice. Finishes easy zesty and a touch bitter on the finish. Not easy to Finca Vides 2009 Torcidas but dilute, with a pithiness that’s normal for the vari- peg as Sauvignon Blanc; drink now to capture its 84 Chardonnay (Mendoza); $15. A lit- ety. It’s the current vintage but it already seems remaining freshness. Imported by Testa Wines tle hard on the nose, with burnt undertones. The passé. Imported by Table 31 Imports. —M.S. Of The World. —M.S. palate is hollow in the middle and the wine col- lapses on itself. As for flavors, look for mildly VinEcol 2009 Torrontés (Men- Bodega Norton 2010 Sauvignon toasted and creamy white fruits and vanilla. 81 doza); $15. Nutty on the nose and 83 Blanc (Mendoza); $10. Neutral on Imported by Massanois Imports. —M.S. lacking that patented tropical pop. The palate is the nose except for a spot of peach and citrus. maderized and not 100% fresh, with a waxy set of The palate is soft and chunky, with generic citrus Trivento 2009 Golden Reserve flavors and a -style finish. Over the hill. flavors that suggest passion fruit and grapefruit. 84 Chardonnay (Mendoza); $21. A lot Imported by Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. Turns a little mealy on the finish, so drink ASAP. of oak. The nose is honeyed and heavy, with too Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. much toast and butter. In the mouth, it’s got kick- ing acids but the flavors are sweet, oaky and veer SAUVIGNON BLANC Doña Paula 2010 Los Cardos toward banana. Resiny on the finish; under- 81 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza); $10. whelming for the price. Imported by Banfi Vint- O. Fournier 2008 B Crux Sauvi- Hard, oily, prickly and not impressive by global ners. —M.S. 86 gnon Blanc (Uco Valley); $21. Fresh Sauvignon Blanc standards. The palate deals and citrusy on the nose, with apple and goose- semisour grapefruit and passion fruit flavors, and Verum 2010 Chardonnay (Patago- berry notes. The palate is jumpy, tangy and zesty, the finish is a monotone continuation of the pri- 84 nia); $17. Generic melon and peach aro- with lemon, lime and pineapple flavors. Not the mary flavors. Imported by Trinchero Family mas precede a slightly forced and sweet palate with most “varietal” SB going, but it’s tangy and lively Estates. —M.S. melony flavors and some tail-end bitterness. The fin- nonetheless. Hanging in well for a 2008, but ish is creamy and shows vanilla as well as peach and drink now. Imported by Fine Estates From toast notes. Very basic Chardonnay given the price. Spain. —M.S. CHARDONNAY Imported by Vino Del Sol. —M.S.

Amadores NV Sauvignon Blanc La Vuelta 2010 Unoaked Chardon- Alpamanta 2009 Natal Chardon- 85 (Mendoza); $12. Aromas of talcum 87 nay (Mendoza); $7. For the price you 83 nay (Mendoza); $15. Yellow in color, powder, lime and melon are simple, sweet and can’t go wrong with a wine like this. It’s flowery blowsy on the nose, and chunky to the max in the pretty good. The palate is clean and zesty, with and fruity, and beyond that it doesn’t pretend to mouth. This wine is big, forced and heavy, with gooseberry, melon and citrus flavors. Quite fruity be more than it is. There’s a natural creaminess to orange, banana and melon flavors. Finishes soft and long on the finish for such a basic NV Sauvi- the feel and full melon and white fruit flavors. and with no discernible oak or elegance. gnon. Imported by Casa Corbello, LLC. —M.S. Proof that some Chardonnays do better without Imported by William Harrison Imports. —M.S. oak. Imported by Clock Tower Imports. Best Nemesio 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Buy. —M.S. Zorzal 2009 Chardonnay (Men- 85 (Patagonia); $12. Slightly stalky on 83 doza); $12. Aromas of mealy apple and the nose, with aromas of haystack and snappy cit- Bodega Norton 2010 Cosecha Tar- citrus are less than inviting, while the palate is rus fruits. The palate is citrusy and acidic, with 86 dia Late Harvest Chardonnay citrusy but lacking in true Chardonnay character; flavors of orange and grapefruit. Rounds into (Mendoza); $10. For a sweet Chardonnay, this instead it shows odd flavors of ham and orange form with airing and time in the glass, but overall is good and enticing. The nose is clean, with juice. Ranks as yet another uninspired Argentine it’s just a modest, regular SB for basic purposes. peach, melon and honeyed aromas. The palate is Chard in a long line of such wines. Imported by Imported by William Harrison Imports. —M.S. balanced and smooth, with a good blend of stick- Casa Corbello, LLC. —M.S. iness and acidity. Tastes only slightly candied, Funky Llama 2010 Sauvignon with melon and mango flavors. A good dessert- Budini 2009 Chardonnay (Men- 84 Blanc (Mendoza); $7. Not a bad little style Chard in a field that doesn’t have many play- 80 doza); $13. Smells like floor polish at

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 first. Gets better with time, but still a weak wine as overoaked as a white wine can be. This blend Yellow Tail 2010 Malbec (Aus- of juicy acids, too much oak, not enough fruit and of Viognier, Chardonnay and Riesling is all resin 84 tralia); $8. Possibly understating it, this a grating finish. Does nothing to move the dial and barrel spice. It actually offers some sophisti- Australian Malbec is boldly colored, with forward in terms of Argentine Chardonnay. cation in terms of mouthfeel, but overall it’s intensely fresh and grapy aromas and robust Imported by Vine Connections. —M.S. grossly out of balance and brutally dominated by blueberry flavors. It’s a bit simple and possibly a oak-based aromas and flavors. Imported by Testa little on the sweet side, but fills the mouth with Medanos 2009 Chardonnay (Men- Wines Of The World. —M.S. plenty of flavor. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & 80 doza); $17. Smells like sweet apple pie Sons. Best Buy. —J.C. and wax. The palate is sticky and out of balance, with papaya, vanilla and mealy white fruit flavors. AUSTRALIA Tamburlaine 2008 Wine Lovers Not very fresh; seems to already be turning 82 Malbec (Orange); $15. Light to south. Imported by Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. RED WINES medium in body and rather tart, with leather and dried cherry notes that are submerged under an ZINFANDEL excessively medicinal character. Imported by WHITE BLENDS MHW, Ltd. —J.C. Hentley Farm 2007 Zinfandel Viña Alicia 2010 Tiara (Luján de (Barossa Valley); $32. This wine han- Cuyo); $30. A white blend made from 90 SANGIOVESE 86 dles its elevated alcohol level (labeled at 16.5%) Riesling, Albariño and . It lacks speci- well, with masses of slightly jammy fruit and a ficity on the nose while offering up floral, citrusy Hugh Hamilton 2009 The Mongrel aromas. In the mouth, it’s plump and soft, with creamy, lush mouthfeel. Hints of baking spices 87 Sangiovese Blend (McLaren Vale); sweet melon, spice and a honeyed finish that also and leather add complexity and persist through $18. A lively, medium-bodied dry red for casual shows pith and mild bitterness. Interesting but a the long finish. It’d be fun to throw this in a blind meals, this is a good example of Australian San- little heavy, sweet and amorphous. Imported by tasting with some of California’s top Zins. giovese. Red berry fruit is backed by crisp acids Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. Imported by MHW, Ltd. —J.C. and firmish tannins, making this a good candi- date to pair with burgers or pizza. It’s 85% San- Benegas 2009 Clara Benegas Groom 2008 Bush Block Zinfandel giovese, with the balance Merlot and Shiraz. 84 Chardonnay-Sauvignon (Men- 88 (Barossa Valley); $26. No doubt Imported by Hugh Hamilton Wines. —J.C. doza); $14. Smells both nutty and warm as well informed by winemaker Daryl Groom’s California as citric and sharp. The palate keeps that pace; it’s experience, this is a fine example of Australian Kangarilla Road 2009 Sangiovese citrusy and cidery in feel, with orange, banana Zinfandel, marrying briary berry fruit with subtle 86 (McLaren Vale); $20. Tannic, crisp and spice flavors. Finishes quick and a little herbal notes and hints of vanilla, cinnamon and and borderline unfriendly when tasted on its heavy. 70% Chardonnay and 30% Sauvignon clove. The tannins are soft, yet the wine remains own, this is a firmly structured, berry-and-earth- Blanc. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.S. fresh on the finish. Drink now–2013. Imported inflected dry red that should be paired with rare by LisaLisa Inc. —J.C. steaks or burgers in order for it to shine. Nieto Senetiner 2008 Don Nicanor Imported by Click Wine Group. —J.C. 84 Chardonnay-Viognier (Mendoza); Kangarilla Road 2008 Black St. $18. Smells sweet and artificial, with chemical 87 Peters Zinfandel (McLaren Vale); notes and overwrought vanilla. Juicy in the $30. Fairly full-bodied and lush, with berry fruit PETITE SIRAH mouth, with flesh and freshness. But the flavors flavors balanced by darker notes of chocolate and are oaky, so much so that the wine’s citrus and Massena 2006 The Howling Dog coffee. The tannins are soft, making this wine apple quality is masked. Finishes with grapefruit Petite Sirah (Barossa Valley); $42. An immediately accessible. Imported by Click Wine 92 and bitterness. Weird and all over the map. inky wine, yet remarkably well balanced and sup- Group. —J.C. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. ple, marrying a lush, creamy texture with masses of blueberries and hints of mint and licorice. Drink Callia 2009 Alta Chardonnay-Tor- MALBEC now or hold up to 10 years. Imported by Epicurean 82 rontes (Tulum Valley); $10. Smells a Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. bit acrid, with aromas of peach pit and chemical. Thorn Clarke 2008 St Kitts Vine- The palate is short on structure and offers punch- De Bortoli 2008 DB Family Selec- like sweetness in the mango/papaya field of play. 90 yard on Truro Volcanic Soil Mal- 87 tion Petite Sirah (South Eastern Very juicy but not tasting or smelling very bec (Barossa Valley); $30. A dark, inky Australia); $9. Made in a soft, user-friendly defined. Imported by Palm Bay International. — purple in color, this is a full-bodied (15.5% alco- style, the 2008 DB Family Selection Petite Sirah M.S. hol) but gentle Malbec, its vanilla, plum and offers up a flavorful mouthful of plum and baking black olive notes framed by supple tannins and a spices. It’s medium-bodied, with a silkiness to the Luigi Bosca 2009 Gala 3 White velvety finish. Drink it over the next several years. structure that belies the grape variety, yet that 81 (Maipú); $36. Gold in color and about Imported by Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. same softness makes it immediately appealing.

WineMag.com | 23 BUYING I GUIDE

Drink now. Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA BTW, Cenosillicaphobia is the fear of an empty tralia); $12. Boldly fruity, redolent with cherries Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. glass. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. and pink grapefruit, this medium-bodied rosé does have a slightly candied quality to it, but remains a decent summertime quaff. Serve well TEMPRANILLO OTHER RED WINES chilled to help mute the apparent sweetness. Imported by Trinchero Family Estates. —J.C. Running with Bulls 2009 Tem- Torbreck 2007 The Pict Mataro 90 pranillo (Barossa); $20. A Yalumba 88 (Barossa Valley); $135. After recently project, Running with Bulls sources Tempranillo tasting a knockout bottle of the 2005, this was AUSTRALIA from several subregions of the Barossa under the disappointing. Ample cinnamon and mocha notes stewardship of winemaker Louisa Rose. The oak accent slightly pruny flavors; the tannins are soft, WHITE WINES here is subtle and well integrated, adding hints of while the acids provide a lemony edge to the fin- vanilla and spice to the black cherry and plum ish. Imported by Torbreck. —J.C. VIOGNIER flavors. It’s full-bodied and richly textured, yet D’Arenberg 2007 The Twen- soft and welcoming. Imported by Negociants Yalumba 2009 FSW8B Botrytis tyeight Road Mourvèdre USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 87 Viognier (Wrattonbully); $19/375 (McLaren Vale); $35. Mourvèdre—often 92 ml. Yalumba’s mastery of Viognier extends even Gemtree 2008 Luna Roja Tem- called Mataro in Australia—isn’t often seen on to this botrytis-affected dessert style, which offers pranillo (McLaren Vale); $20. its own, but this is a solid example. Toast, mint 89 scents and flavors of honey, dried apricots and Cropped at less than two tons per acre, this is a and vanilla notes mark the nose, while dark, orange marmalade. It’s not overly complex, but full-bodied, creamy-textured Tempranillo plummy fruit comes through on the palate. The marked by vanilla-tinged oak. Black cherries and tannins are surprisingly soft for the variety, but wonderfully concentrated yet balanced, with a plums comprise the core, with embellishments the wine finishes with crisp acids. Imported by long, honeyed finish. Drink it over the next few of tobacco adding complexity to this lush, easy- Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. years. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. Edi- drinking wine. Drink it over the next several tors’ Choice. —J.C. years. Imported by Guardian of The Grape Hugh Hamilton 2007 The Oddball Imports. —J.C. 87 (McLaren Vale); $48. Rich, Yalumba 2009 Viognier (Eden Val- ripe and verging on raisiny, this is a dark, chunky 91 ley); $20. Shows all the beautiful Viog- Robert Oatley 2009 Tempranillo red wine that would be best served alongside nier notes you could ask for: flowers, spice, 88 (King Valley); $18. A nicely balanced winter braises or stews. Potent blackberry-blue- apricot and melon, carried by a succulent mouth- rendition of Tempranillo, with dark, berry- berry fruit is accented by hints of smoke and feel that remains fresh and vibrant from start to scented fruit and a veneer of vanilla and toasty mocha. Should drink well for 4–5 years. lingeringly spicy finish. Drink now. Imported by oak. Easy, with supple tannins that don’t get in Imported by Hugh Hamilton Wines. —J.C. Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. the way of present enjoyment. Imported by Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C. De Bortoli 2008 Estate Grown ROSÉ 90 Viognier (Yarra Valley); $27. Made in a crisper, fresher style than many Viogniers, RED BLENDS Robert Oatley 2010 Rosé of San- without the extreme aromatics of some, but pos- giovese (Mudgee); $16. 87 Coming in at sessing fine, complex pear and pineapple fruit Coriole 2008 Sangiovese-Shiraz just under 13% alcohol, this is a dry, Provence-styled alongside smoky-minerally notes. It’s medium- (McLaren Vale); $16. Despite being rosé marked by crisp strawberry and citrus flavors. 90 bodied and admirably focused, with a long, 51% Sangiovese, this wine comes across as more Ending on a refreshing, slightly chalky-mineral note, refreshing finish. Imported by De Bortoli Wines Shiraz in style, marked by dark, plummy notes, this would make a fun summer sipper. Imported by USA Inc. —J.C. black olive, tar and coffee. It’s medium-bodied, Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C. with soft, creamy tannins and a reasonably long Yalumba 2010 Made with Organic finish. Maybe the Sangiovese just brightens Yalumba 2010 Y Series San- Grapes Viognier (South Australia); things a little. Good value. Imported by Robert giovese Rosé (South Australia); 90 85 $16. Whale Selections Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. $12. This medium-bodied rosé of Sangiovese This represents a top value among Viog- features slightly confected aromas of strawber- niers, which often carry a price tag loftier than D’Arenberg 2007 The Cenosillica- ries and cherries, followed by simple, fruity fla- their quality deserves. Not so in this case; the 88 phobic Cat -Cinsault vors balanced by crisp acidity. Drink it over the variety’s floral aromas are well displayed, backed (McLaren Vale); $29. This blend of 91% summer months. Imported by Negociants USA, by hints of melon, apricot and gingery spice. It’s Sagrantino and 9% Cinsault is unique. It’s tarry Inc. —J.C. fairly full bodied, with a slightly viscous texture and leathery, with hints of prune, vanilla and that extends the warm finish. Drink now. clove, but it’s more about the soft but plentiful Angove’s 2009 Nine Vines Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’ tannins that leave behind a slightly furry feel. 84 Grenache-Shiraz Rosé (South Aus- Choice. —J.C.

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Yalumba 2009 Virgilius Viognier little bit of complexity. Finishes tart. Imported by a producer better known for its red wines, this is a 89 (Eden Valley); $40. Yalumba’s flagship The Country Vintner. —J.C. notable white—although there is a slight coppery Viognier is a broad, powerful wine, with pineap- tinge to the wine’s hue. Melon and herbal notes are ple and apricot flavors marked by hints of floral Zonte’s Footstep 2009 Lady of the true to the variety, as is the broad mouthfeel and perfume and spice. Not quite as aromatically 85 Lake Single Site Viognier (Lang- faint tactile dustiness on the finish. Drink now. expressive as the Eden Valley bottling, it may be a horne Creek); $14. This South Australia Viog- Imported by Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. touch denser and more concentrated, with poten- nier comes across as restrained on the nose, tial to evolve through 2014 or so. Imported by offering up little more than some vaguely smoky Yalumba 2010 The Y Series Pinot Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. or flinty notes, then delivers melon, pear and 87 Grigio (South Australia); $12. This spice notes via a full-bodied, slightly oily-textured appealing wine’s melon and pear aromas and flavors Yangarra Estate Vineyard 2009 palate. Turns crisp and citrusy on the finish. might seem a little simple at first, but there’s an 89 Viognier (McLaren Vale); $29. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. appealing hint of white pepper chasing through it According to the winery, this spent only six months that adds dimension to the fruit. Broad on the palate, in neutral French oak, but there’s an indisputable D’Arenberg 2009 The Last Ditch with soft acids. Drink now. Imported by Negociants toastiness to this wine, which serves to accent hints 83 Viognier (McLaren Vale-Adelaide USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. of flowers and spice on the nose. Despite the toasty Hills); $25. A different take on Viognier, with nuttiness, there’s plenty of fresh fruit in evidence as modest melon and pear notes and none of the Cool Woods 2009 (Eden well, making it quite attractive. Imported by Yan- variety’s flamboyant aromatics or spice. It’s crisp 86 Valley); $13. Like its stablemate Pinot garra Estate Vineyard. —J.C. and lean instead of lush or opulent. Imported by Grigio from producer Thorne Clark, this Pinot Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. Gris carries a faint copper-pink cast to its hue, Hugh Hamilton 2009 The Loose and it also has a fairly broad mouthfeel. The pear Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Cannon Viognier (McLaren Vale); and melon flavors are pleasant, making it an easy- 88 2009 Lieu Dit Malakoff Viognier $16. Hugh Hamilton proves that Yalumba’s suc- 82 drinking medium-bodied white with wide appeal. (Pyrenees); $30. The wine looks a touch cess with this tricky variety isn’t a fluke, offering Imported by Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. amber-like at the rim, with aromas of butter- genuine Viognier expression at a realistic price. scotch and cracked pepper. The flavors carry a Ripe muskmelon and apricot notes leave a round, James Oatley 2009 Tic Tok Pinot bruised-fruit character, and the wine seems a bit full-bodied impression on the palate, finishing Grigio (South Eastern Australia); flabby on the palate. Not up to this project’s usual 86 with musky spice. Drink now. Imported by Hugh $14. This faintly copper-tinged Pinot Grigio high standards. Imported by Terlato Wines Inter- Hamilton Wines. —J.C. offers ripe melon and apple aromas and flavors. national. —J.C. It’s medium-bodied, with a refreshing crispness Yalumba 2010 The Y Series Viog- to the finish. Drink now. Imported by Robert 88 nier (South Australia); $12. Even ROUSSANNE Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C. toward the lower end of the range, Yalumba’s Viog- niers retain the variety’s hallmark overt floral and Yangarra Estate Vineyard 2009 Yellow Tail 2009 Reserve Pinot spice aromatics. This is less conentrated and intense Roussanne (McLaren Vale); $29. 86 Grigio (South Eastern Australia); 84 $12. than some of the winery’s other bottlings, but it’s still This is a nutty, almondy rendition of Roussanne, This Pinot Grigio is ripe and round with- a fresh, nicely balanced wine that’s a good introduc- almost to the extent of veiling the remaining out being overly heavy, marrying muskmelon tion to Viognier. Drink now. Imported by Negociants pineapple-tinged fruit. It’s broad in the mouth and nectarine flavors to a cool, refreshing fin- USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. and soft in texture, with a trace of warmth on the ish. Drink now. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & finish. Imported by Jackson Family Wines. —J.C. Sons. —J.C. Oxford Landing 2009 Viognier 87 (South Australia); $10. Yes, it is pos- D’Arenberg 2009 The Money Spi- Oxford Landing 2010 Pinot Grigio sible to find real Viognier character for $10 per bot- 83 der Roussanne (McLaren Vale); 85 (South Australia); $10. This tle (conceivably $6 by the glass). Featuring ample $25. Deep golden straw in color, with modest medium-bodied Pinot Grigio blends underripe fruit balanced by crisp acids, this is very drinkable aromas of struck flint and pear. The flavors are pear notes with hints of nasturtium and flinti- stuff. This wine’s modest pear and apricot aromas reminiscent of buttery, honeyed pears, yet stay ness, while a hint of bitterness emerges on the lack some of the flamboyance of top examples, but tart from start to finish. Perplexing. Imported by finish. Overall, it’s clean, correct and refresh- this is still a very good effort. Imported by Nego- Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. ing. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. Best ciants USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. Buy. —J.C.

West Cape Howe 2008 Viognier PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO De Bortoli 2010 DB Family Selec- 86 (Western Australia); $20. This is a 84 tion Pinot Grigio (South Eastern rather thick and viscous rendering of Viognier, Thorn Clarke 2010 Mount Craw- Australia); $9. Medium in weight, with modest with pear and pineapple fruit that makes a pow- 87 ford Estate Grown Single Vine- pear and melon aromas and flavors. It’s clean and erful statement while at the same time lacking a yard Pinot Grigio (Eden Valley); $14. From fresh, finishing with a delicate touch of citrus.

WineMag.com | 25 BUYING I GUIDE

Drink now. Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA finish, it’s a solid value. Imported by The Inc. —J.C. /MOSCATO Country Vintner. Best Buy. —J.C.

Innocent Bystander 2010 Moscato D’Arenberg 2009 The Hermit Crab VERDELHO 87 (Victoria); $14. Hyperperfumed, with 87 Viognier-Marsanne (McLaren billowing floral notes, raspberries and citrus that Vale); $16. The Hermit Crab is a plump, Zonte’s Footstep 2009 Sea Mist provide immediate impact. The sweet, fruity fla- medium-bodied blend of Viognier (72%) and 88 Single Site Verdelho (Langhorne vors are adequately balanced by bubbly froth, Marsanne (28%). Although it retains some Viog- Creek); $15. Smooth, easy-drinking and lushly making for an easy-to-drink quaff. The gentle nier-like elements of melon fruit and fullness of textured, this Verdelho features peach and grape- pink color is even reminiscent of summertime texture, some of the variety’s distinctiveness fruit notes that stay refreshingly clean and crisp sunsets. Drink now. Imported by Old Bridge Cel- appears to have been blended away by the on the finish. It should work well as an apéritif or lars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Marsanne, leaving a less expressive but still nicely with many fish dishes. Imported by Old Bridge balanced and more versatile white wine. Cellars. —J.C. Deakin Estate 2009 Moscato (Vic- Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. 86 toria); $7. Sweet and fruity, with a Bleasdale 2008 Potts’ Catch slight prickle of carbon dioxide and bright flavors Heartland 2009 Stickleback White 86 Verdelho (Langhorne Creek); $15. of pineapple and tangerine. Fresh and clean, but 85 (South Australia); $22. An unusual Although labeled Verdelho, this medium- to full- drink up. Imported by Freixenet USA. Best Buy. blend of 37% Verdelho, 32% Viognier and 31% bodied wine contains a noticeable 14% Sauvi- —J.C. Sémillon, this is a fragrant yet not overbearing gnon Blanc. As a result, there’s a slightly sweaty, white, with rather simple grapefruity flavors and pungent aspect to its aroma, and the almost Jacob’s Creek 2010 Moscato a round, ample feel on the palate despite carrying sweet, peachy notes are balanced by tart, grape- a modest alcohol level of 12%. Imported by Epi- (South Eastern Australia); $8. Very fruity ones. Drink now. Imported by Southern 84 curean Wines. —J.C. floral, citrusy and perfumed upfront, retaining Starz, Inc. —J.C. that lemony edge to help the retained carbon Shoofly 2008 The Freckle (Ade- dioxide balance the inherent sweetness. Clean Hope Estate 2009 Verdelho laide); $14. A Rhône-inspired blend of and refreshing on the finish. Imported by Pernod 85 (Hunter Valley); $13. This starts off Marsanne (40%), Roussanne (37%) and Viognier 84 Ricard. Best Buy. —J.C. slightly rubbery, but comes around quickly (23%), this comes across as rather broad in the enough to display ample white grapefruit and mouth, but lacking depth and length. Melon, Wirra Wirra 2009 Mrs. Wigley pith notes. It’s a bit tight and austere from start to pear and almond notes make a favorable impres- Moscato (Australia); $15/500 ml. finish; probably at its best with seafood. Imported 84 sion, and the wine finishes fresh, if somewhat Boldly fruity, this “wine product”—labeled as by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. simple. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. such because it is only 4.5% alcohol—features loads of strawberry and tangerine character. Peter Lehmann 2010 Layers White It’s perfumy, soapy and sweet, balanced by SAVAGNIN 84 (Adelaide); $17. A “layered” blend of frothiness. Imported by International Vines, five different varieties, this starts off a bit flo- Zonte’s Footstep 2009 The Love Inc. —J.C. ral and lemony, then develops some earthier Symbol Single Site Savagnin notes to go along with the modest citrus fla- 88 Torbreck 2009 The Bothie Muscat Blanc (Langhorne Creek); $15. Picked rela- vors. Finishes short. Sémillon (37%), Muscat tively early—the finished alcohol level is only 81 Blanc (Barossa Valley); $19/35 ml. (20.5%), Gewürztraminer (19.5%), Pinot Gris 11%—this is suprisingly soft and round while Sweet and full-bodied, but with an acrid, (19%) and Chardonnay (4%). Imported by remaining light in body: It’s a charming sylph. burnt note that detracts considerably from Hess Collection. —J.C. The only quibble is that the lime-like flavors fade what is an otherwise pleasant stickie. Imported relatively quickly on the finish. Imported by Old by Torbreck. —J.C. Bridge Cellars. —J.C. OTHER WHITE WINES

Gemtree 2009 Moonstone Sav- WHITE BLENDS Robert Oatley 2010 Gewürz- 87 agnin (McLaren Vale); $20. This is 90 traminer (Mudgee); $24. This wine an intriguing wine that the winery made “natu- Pikes 2009 The White Mullet bursts from the glass with smack-you-in-the-face rally,” with indigenous yeasts, no additions and 89 (Clare Valley); $14. The White Mullet Gewürz aromas of roses, ginger and lychee, and no filtration. It’s slightly musky and nutty at the is an innovative blend of 70% Riesling, 11% doesn’t let up on the palate. It’s full and a bit vis- same time, with a slightly creamy note to the Viognier, 10% and 9% Sauvi- cous without getting blowsy, with lingering spice pineapple-like fruit. It’s medium-bodied, at gnon Blanc. The result is fragrant with hints of notes on the finish. An exciting development 12.5% abv, round in the mouth, yet crisp and orange zest and pineapple, and moderately from a virtually unknown viticultural area. Drink slightly chalky on the finish. Imported by mouthfilling without ever seeming overly soft. now. Imported by Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. Guardian of The Grape Imports. —J.C. Simultaneously crisp, luscious and long on the Editors’ Choice. —J.C.

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Mitolo 2010 Jester and spice fill the nose and palate of this full bod- Decadently rich with a sunny, bright acidity and 87 (McLaren Vale); $20. At only 10% ied blend of Saperavi and Merlot from . elegant tones of tangerine, black tea and heather, alcohol, this Vermentino actually comes across a The bright acidity makes for a fresh sip, but harsh it’s lip-smackingly good through its long, smooth bit Riesling-like, with green apple and citrus fla- tannins lead to a choppy, jagged finish. Imported finish. Imported by The Portfolio Group. —A.I. vors and a lingering, crisp finish. Drink now. by Corus LLC. —A.I. Imported by Vintus LLC. —J.C. Tokaj Classic 1999 Aszú 6 Put- 2007 Satrapezo 10 Kvevri 92 tonyos (); $80/500 ml. Orange 2009 Marsanne (Nagam- 84 (); $35. A wine- peel, honey and spice notes linger over a bou- 85 bie Lakes); $15. Tahbilk is proud making history in a bottle, this quet of hyacinth and freesias. So beautifully owner of the largest Marsanne holdings in the made from Rkatsiteli grapes is an unusual peek structured, it’s as if each sip unleashes a wave world, with a reputation for making ageworthy into techniques tracing back 8,000 years. Deep of sweet amber honey that undulates on the examples. Perhaps this one just needs more time, gold in color due to an extended on palate amidst flashes of golden marmalade and then, as it comes across as nothing more than a grape skins, this wine was aged in buried clay ves- a vibrant citrus acidity. Imported by The Port- nicely balanced, medium-bodied dry white with sels, then oak, giving it a smoky, earthy profile folio Group. —A.I. modest notes of pears and almonds. Imported by with notes of butterscotch and roasted nut skins. Epic Wines. —J.C. There’s not a lot of acidity, but it’s refreshing with Royal Tokaji 2006 Red Label Aszú pretty orange peel notes and a grape tannin 91 5 Puttonyos (Tokaji); $40/500 ml. astringency on the finish. Imported by Corus Just one whiff of this wine reveals an intoxicating EASTERN LLC. —A.I. perfume of wildflower honey marked with zesty, fresh orange peel. An intensely concentrated EUROPE Telavi 2007 Satrapezo Saperavi honey elixir, it ripples persistently on the palate 84 (Kakheti); $40. Aged in buried clay with a brilliant spray of Meyer lemon juice and a GEORGIA vessels in accordance with ancient Georgian rich, vanilla cream note. Imported by Wilson winemaking techniques, then transferred to new Daniels Ltd. —A.I. Bagrationi 1882 2007 Reserve oak, there’s a core of bright cherry fruit, coffee 87 Brut (Georgia); $20. Made in the grinds and vanilla on the nose and palate of this Royal Tokaji 2008 Mád Cuvée Late méthode Champenoise style from a blend of tra- unique Saperavi. It’s a good wine, but charred 89 Harvest (Tokaji); $21. Bursting with ditional Georgian grapes, this is a delicately effer- wood, jagged tannins and hints of barnyard tend zesty tangerine peel aromas and a gentle clover vescent sparkler with a delicious bouquet of to obscure all the lovely fruit. Imported by Corus honey sweetness, the Mád Cuvée Late Harvest brioche, white flowers and sugar cookies. Pleas- LLC. —A.I. reflects a lighter style of Tokaji, but with a fresh- antly dry with notes of fresh pears and pineapple, ness and delicacy that’s ethereal. Imported by it’s an elegant wine with vibrant acidity and a rich Bagrationi 1882 NV Classic Extra Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.I. minerality throughout. Imported by Pacific Wine 83 Dry (Georgia); $10. Powdered sugar Marketing Group. —A.I. and lifted lemon scents mark this blend of tradi- Disznókö 2008 Késöi Szüret Late tional Georgian white grapes. The off-dry, char- 88 Harvest (Tokaji); $25/500 ml. While Bagrationi 1882 2007 Royal Cuvée mat method produced wine is a bit more the nose is a sumptuous bouquet of honey, 86 Brut (Georgia); $35. Made in the aggressive on the palate than Bagrationi’s méth- beeswax and yellow freesias, there’s an alluring méthode Champenoise style from Chinebuli, the ode Champenoise counterparts, but a value alter- darkness to this delicate Tokaji full of lanolin premium grape of Georgia, native to . Imported by Pacific Wine and dried citrus peel notes. A bright citrus Bagrationi’s flagship wine is rich and frothy on Marketing Group. —A.I. acidity and astringent black tea notes linger the tongue with an abundance of fresh apple pleasantly through the finish. Imported by and floral notes with a long, toasted nut skin Telavi 2005 Marani Mukuzani Vintus LLC. —A.I. finish. Imported by Pacific Wine Marketing 82 Saperavi (Kakheti); $15. There are Group. —A.I. pleasant notes of ripe black cherry jam, spice and Tokaj Keresked 2001 Aszú 4 Put- menthol on the nose and palate of this Georgian 85 tonyos (Tokaji); $30/500 ml. Scents Bagrationi 1882 2007 Classic Brut Saperavi, but obscured by a cloak of char, harsh of honey and citrus rind on this golden Tokaji are 84 (Georgia); $10. Pleasantly yeasty and tannins and a puckery acidity that lingers on the marked by lifted apple and pear notes. Sweet nutty on the nose, this is a slightly drier offering finish. Imported by Corus LLC. —A.I. tropical fruit and vanilla notes are pleasant, but within their charmat method line. Frothy with a there’s a slightly tinned, apple juice concentrate fresh apple palate, it’s the perfect value sparkler flavor that persists on the palate. Imported by meant for everyday entertaining. Imported by Tri-Vin Imports. —A.I. Pacific Wine Marketing Group. —A.I. Tokaj Classic 2000 Aszú 6 Put- Tokaj Keresked 2001 Aszú 3 Put- Telavi 2007 Marani Kondoli Vine- 92 tonyos (Tokaji); $59/500 ml. Pretty 83 tonyos (Tokaji); $20/500 ml. Lifted 84 yards Saperavi-Merlot (Kakheti); lavender and violet notes shaded with wax and apple and pear aromas accent this light-bodied $17. Notes of bright, candied red cherries, cedar lanolin scent this delicious, honey-coated wine. Tokaji with characteristic honey sweetness and a

WineMag.com | 27 BUYING I GUIDE bright, citrus acidity. There’s a darkness to this toasted hazelnut note, it’s balanced by a lemony Croatian . Savory in profile, the palate is wine, however, brought on by hints of oxidation acidity and a brisk minerality throughout. tinged with hints of tinned apple juice concen- and a slightly dusty, tinned finish. Imported by Imported by Oenocentric. —A.I. trate. Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. Tri-Vin Imports. —A.I. Saints Hills 2009 Nevina White Saints Hills 2008 Ding; 85 (); $35. Rich with butter, cream 82 (Middle and South Dalmatia); $65. BOSNIA & and caramel popcorn, this Croatian blend of Mal- There’s a distinct grassy note of hay and alfalfa vasia and Chardonnay with a hefty dose of new on the nose of this Croatian red wine. On the French oak is luscious both on the nose and palate, there’s pleasant notes of ripe red fruit palate. Savory in style with hints of salted butter, and chocolate, but coarse grape tannins and a Winery Citlukˇ 2007 Vranac it’s an interesting example of made bold 15.5% alcohol content contribute to a 85 (); $13. Toasted oak and cedar in a decidedly international style. Imported by rather harsh, disjointed mouthfeel. Imported notes meld into lush, ripe black plums on the Oenocentric. —A.I. by Oenocentric. —A.I. nose and palate of this fruit-forward, richly con- centrated wine from . It’s Bibich 2008 Riserva R6 Red (North Piquentum 2008 Teranum Teran a straightforward, accessible wine, but well bal- 84 Dalmatia); $20. The nose and palate 81 (Istria); $18. Aromas of superripe red anced with smooth tannins and a bright acidity. of this Croatian red blend drip with syrupy sweet fruit and charred wood match the soft mocha and Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. red fruit, powdered sugar and mocha. High acid- red fruit flavors on this Croatian red made from ity adds freshness, and 12 months in American the Teran grape. Finishes a bit sour with mouth- Winery Citlukˇ 2007 Blatina oak gives the wine a pleasant cherry vanilla char- puckering acidity and tannins. Imported by Tasty 83 (Mostar); $13. Ripe and fruity on the acter, but there’s an overall clumsiness to it that Wine Company. —A.I. nose and palate with notes of sweet black plums could use some fine tuning. Imported by Oeno- laced with coffee and fresh herbs, the wine has an centric. —A.I. undertone of earth and mushroom throughout MONTENEGRO that adds a savory quality. Imported by Tasty Karaman Winery 2008 Dubrovnik Wine Company. —A.I. 84 Malvasia (Middle and South Dal- Monte Cheval 2007 Vranac (Lake matia); $20. Notes of dainty white flowers, 82 Skadar Valley); $10. Scents of ripe ripe melon and toasted nuts fill the nose and red fruit on the nose contrast with a slightly BULGARIA palate of this full-bodied Malvasia. With a underripe, sour cherry palate on this red wine whopping 14.5% alcohol content, there’s a bit from Montenegro. Despite its sharp acidity and a Targovishte 2009 Traminer (Bul- of heat on the finish and a slightly dusty tone coarse mouthful of tannins, it ends on a pleasant 83 garia); $10. A curious bouquet of on the palate, but brisk acidity and pleasant chocolate-cherry finish. Imported by Tasty Wine lemongrass, pine needles and green florals, this astringency on the finish keep it elegant. Company. —A.I. Bulgarian Traminer boasts pretty floral scents and Imported by Oenocentric. —A.I. flavors accented with notes of apple and lemon. The dry, medium-bodied palate is a bit dusty, Bastianich 2009 Adriatico Malva- however, with an abrasive acidity on the finish. 83 sia Istriana (Istria); $15. Big bou- Imported by Bulgarian Master Vintners. —A.I. quets of jasmine blossoms perfume this pretty Terra Romana 2008 Feteasca Nea- white Malvasia from . It’s a bit soft on 83 gra (Dealu Mare); $9. While pleas- Targovishte 2009 Muskat Ottonel entry with persistent florals that verge on the ant on the nose and palate with loads of ripe red 80 (Bulgaria); $9. Confected and soapy confected, but its an easygoing, medium-bodied cherries, dried herbs and a hint of coffee grinds, with exuberant baby powder and floral tones, wine for casual entertaining. Imported by Dark jagged, chunky tannins and a hot finish make this this dry, medium-bodied Bulgarian Muskat Star Imports. —A.I. full bodied a bit unbalanced. Ottonel is an uneven, craggy wine with shriek- Imported by Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. ingly high acidity. Imported by Bulgarian Mas- Bibich 2008 Riserva R5 White ter Vintners. —A.I. 83 (North Dalmatia); $19. High-toned apples and pears and a grassy, herbal note SLOVAKIA scent this unique blend of Croatian and inter- CROATIA national grape varieties. Deep gold in color, Château Bela 2008 Riesling it’s a savory wine with a bruised apple palate, 87 (Muzla); $16. Delicious scents of Matoˇseviˇc 2008 Alba Malvasia but an interesting pick for everyday. Imported honey, apples and petrol lead to a luscious, full- 87 Istriana (Istria); $20. Bright and clean by Oenocentric. —A.I. bodied palate full of smoke and honey with a with freshly pressed apples and pears on the gripping lime skin astringency on the finish. Rich nose, this is an easy-quaffing, medium-bodied Piquentum 2009 Malvoisie (Istria); in honey tones, yet quite dry, the palate is bal- Croatian Malvasia to pair with seafood and other 82 $16. High-toned notes of bruised apples anced with a bracing acidity. Imported by Fred- light fare. Luscious on the palate with a rich, and fresh figs waft from this dry, medium-bodied erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I.

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Verus Vineyards 2009 La Chablisienne 2008 Château Domaine Christian Moreau Père 83 (Stajerska);ˇ $20. While savory and 94 Grenouilles Grand Cru (Chablis); 92 et Fils 2008 Valmur Grand Cru smoky on the nose with subdued aromas of apple $90. La Chablisienne’s flagship wine, from a par- (Chablis); $80. This Valmur is broad, soft, and pineapple, this dry yet fruity Furmint from cel within the Grenouilles Grand Cru vineyard, rich, with less mineral character than some offers a host of bright tropical flavors. has plenty of power, ripe fruit, touches of peach Grand Crus. What is does offer is open, acces- Full bodied with a bracingly high acidity that’s a and creamed citrus fruits. A light amount of toast sible white fruits, melon, warm toast and a tad off-balance, it’s a refreshing wine for every- adds to the mix to complete an ageworthy, long- very fine acidity. Imported by Frederick Wild- day. Imported by Tasty Wine Company. —A.I. term wine. Imported by multiple U.S. importers. man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Bastianich 2009 Adriatico Ribolla Pascal Bouchard 2005 Vaudésir 82 Gialla (Brda); $15. Golden yellow in Domaine Christian Moreau Père 92 Grand Cru (Chablis); $70. A beauti- color, this made from the Ribolla et Fils 2008 Les Clos Grand Cru ful wine that has plenty of weight and also a firm 93 structure of minerality to go with the yellow fruits Gialla grape shows pretty apple and pear notes, (Chablis); $80. Rich and concentrated wine, that are now evolving into more mature flavors. It but a distinctly savory profile as well, with hints of with apricot and peach fruit as well as a tight min- is by no means at its peak yet. Give it 2–3 years. smoke, toasted hazelnut skins and oxidization. eral character. This is a wine for aging, its rich Imported by Wine Symphony, Inc. Cellar Selec- Imported by Dark Star Imports. —A.I. fruits bolstered by an impressive integration with tion. —R.V. the toast, smoothing and rounding the whole LEBANON wine. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Pascal Bouchard 2006 Vaudésir Ltd. —R.V. 90 Grand Cru (Chablis); $70. Big and RED WINE round, a wine that has lost its early fruit flavors Domaine Christian Moreau Père and has begun to develop a full toast and almond et Fils 2008 Vaudésir Grand Cru Le Fleuron 2008 Red (Bekaa Val- 93 character. It has weight and richness, giving a full (Chablis); $80. A lovely wine that sings crisp experience. It is not for long-term aging. ley); $14. A kitchen sink blend of red 82 Chardonnay, with the added complexity of a taut Imported by Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. grape varieties from Cinsault to Tempranillo, this mineral character and richness from its ripe pear quirky Lebanese red is soft and pulpy with over- and melon flavors. It will age, its tight acidity Pascal Bouchard 2007 Vaudésir ripe fruit, mocha chocolate and a whiff of barn- needing 2–3 years to soften out. Imported by Grand Cru (Chablis); $70. A soft yard on the nose and palate. Imported by World 88 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. wine, its flavors initially out of focus. It develops Vintage LLC. —A.I. slowly, showing rich flavors from the wood, the Joseph Drouhin 2008 Domaine structure smothered in a soft cushion. It is per- WHITE 93 Drouhin-Vaudon Vaudésir Grand haps too ample for its own good. Imported by Cru (Chablis); $69. If, at first sip, this seems Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. BURGUNDY delicate, that’s an illusion. Reticent would be a better word, for this is a wine that is still youthful, PREMIER CRU CHABLIS GRAND CRU CHABLIS with the toast and crisp acidity acting as a frame- work to the rich green and white fruits that are William Fèvre 2008 Montmains developing. Keep for 4–5 years. Imported by Domaine Christian Moreau Père Premier Cru Domaine Fèvre et Fils 2008 Clos les Hospices les Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. 94 95 (Chablis); $38. A very taut wine. Yes, it has Clos Grand Cru (Chablis); $110. This Grand La Chablisienne 2008 Les Preuses richness and weight with ripe fruits, but the main Cru within a Grand Cru is a magnificent, opulent character is dominated by a tense line of acidity, Grand Cru (Chablis); $70. The . It has all the power of a great white Bur- 93 of very crisp fruit and of an intense steely tex- here is so pure, its ripe green fruit tied in with gundy, the richness allied to minerality and then ture. For aging over 4–5 years. Imported by Hen- minerality, acidity and a lightly cream and toast given weight by toast, yellow fruits and a pure, riot Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. straight line of acidity. Imported by Frederick touch. It has weight, it’s still young. Age for five Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. years. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. William Fèvre 2008 Fourchaume —R.V. 93 Premier Cru (Chablis); $45. A beau- Joseph Drouhin 2008 Domaine tifully balanced wine, mixing an intense, nervy, 94 Drouhin-Vaudon Les Clos Grand Pascal Bouchard 2007 Les Clos crisp fruit character with light wood flavors and Cru (Chablis); $80. Taut, tight, steely wine that 93 Grand Cru (Chablis); $76. A super- the most piercing acidity. This is a serious wine, is immensely concentrated. This is classic min- rich wine, packed with peach and green plum for aging over 3–5 years while retaining impecca- eral-driven Chablis, the crisp citrus fruit and pear fruits, layers of wood and an intense concentra- ble fruit. Imported by Henriot Inc. —R.V. flavors integrated into a dominant structure. It tion. An impressive wine that shows weight and needs aging, 5–6 years or more. Imported by richness as well as style. Imported by Wine Sym- Joseph Drouhin 2008 Domaine Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —R.V. phony, Inc. —R.V. 92 Drouhin-Vaudon Sécher Premier

WineMag.com | 29 BUYING I GUIDE

Cru (Chablis); $38. On the south bank of the La Chablisienne 2008 Côte de fresh, while it also has a rounded character. Toast River Serein, Sécher is one of the lesser known 90 Léchet Premier Cru (Chablis); $31. from wood aging adds another softer aspect. Premier Crus. This is a cool, crisp wine, empha- With a wine from every cru in Chablis, La Imported by Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. sizing both green fruits and an underlying buttery Chablisienne is able to bring out the character of touch. Beautifully integrated acidity frames the each. This cool Côte de Léchet is typical in its Simonnet-Febvre 2008 Monte de wine. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. tight, mineral character, revealing its edgy nature. 89 Milieu Premier Cru (Chablis); $35. It’s a wine with some aging potential, so give it A finely balanced wine, preserving the mineral William Fèvre 2008 Montmains 2–3 years and more. Multiple U.S. importers. edge and keeping fine acidity while displaying 92 Premier Cru (Chablis); $NA. Woody, Cellar Selection. —R.V. ripe white and yellow fruits. Imported by Louis toasty aromas announce this rich wine. With the Latour Inc. —R.V. ripe peach and nectarine flavors, this feels gener- La Chablisienne 2008 Mont de ous and opulent. However, there is always that 90 Milieu Premier Cru (Chablis); $34. Domaine L. Chatelain 2008 Four- push of a more steely, taut character to keep Mont de Milieu is a popular Chablis Premier 85 chaume Premier Cru (Chablis); firmly in its terroir. —R.V. Cru, deliciously soft and ripe, only lightly min- $38. Soft pear and apple juice flavored wine, eral. It does have a fine streak of acidity that pro- with light acidity, rather dilute in character. Joseph Drouhin 2008 Domaine pels it along to a zingy green plum finish. Imported by Saranty Imports. —R.V. 91 Drouhin-Vaudon Premier Cru Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. (Chablis); $36. A toasty and buttery wine that is initially smooth and silky. It’s only on the mid-palate Pascal Bouchard 2009 Les Vieilles CHABLIS & PETIT CHABLIS that the tauter, more steely character of Chablis 90 Vignes Fourchaume Premier Cru comes through. With fresh acidity, this easily com- (Chablis); $33. Full, ripe and rounded, this La Chablisienne 2008 La Sereine bines both ripeness and mouthwatering crispness. wine has the warmth of 2009, giving a Chablis 88 (Chablis); $25. This is one of the Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. with a richer texture than usual. It brings out the largest volume production Chablis, and it sings. wood, spice and melon characters. It needs a year Minerality and acidity go well with the ripe fruits La Chablisienne 2008 Fourchaume or two aging to get it at its best. Imported by and fresh acidity, bright and packed with grape- 91 Premier Cru (Chablis); $33. A finely Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. fruit edginess. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. rounded wine, with lovely ripe peach and pineap- ple fruits, lifted by a dash of lemon juice. Finely Romain Bouchard 2008 Vau de Xavier Flouret 2008 Marly balanced, ripe in character, although always tex- 90 Vey Premier Cru (Chablis); $NA. 88 Domaine Hamelin (Chablis); $25. tured and tangy. There is a mouthwatering finish. There is great purity here, the fresh green fruits Lightly laced with wood, this attractive ripe wine Mmultiple U.S. importers. —R.V. bursting out of the glass with a mineral edge and shows pear and peach flavors and vivid acidity. It a honeyed toast layer. The wine offers a fine view is well textured, with a streak of apple and pear Simonnet-Febvre 2008 Vaillons of a cool premier cru vineyard. Imported by skins. Fine grained wine, with attractive final 91 Premier Cru (Chablis); $30. On the Williams Corner Wine. —R.V. acidity. Imported by Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. steely, taut side of Chablis, this is a wine for aging. It has fine complexity, lemon and green Simonnet-Febvre 2008 Montée de Domaine Christian Moreau Père plum flavors vying with a buttery edge. Keep for 90 Tonnerre Premier Cru (Chablis); 87 et Fils 2008 Chablis; $26. Smoothly 3–4 years. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. Edi- $37. A mineral-textured wine that balances a toasty wine, the wood element broadening the light tors’ Choice. —R.V. tight steely core against a richer buttery exte- apple fruit without overwhelming it. This attractive, rior. There is great fruit here, fresh grapefruit basic Chablis has a fine, taut layer of acidity, grape- Simonnet-Febvre 2008 Mont- and lime zest going well with creamier apples. fruit and apple juice crispness. Imported by Freder- 91 mains Premier Cru (Chablis); $35. Age for 2–3 years. Imported by Louis Latour ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. A rich style of Chablis, full of ripe apricot, plum Inc. —R.V. and pear juice flavors. There is a buttery charac- Romain Bouchard 2008 Le Grand ter as well that rounds the wine out while still Pascal Bouchard 2008 Les Vieilles 87 Bois (Chablis); $NA. From a single leaving a tense core, hinting at minerality. 89 Vignes Montmains Premier Cru vineyard just behind the line of Grand Cru Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. (Chablis); $30. Toasty wine, maybe over- vineyards, this is superior Chablis, wood aging toasty, giving a buttery malolactic feel. Its bringing an attractive toasty character. It has Domaine Christian Moreau Père acidity and its freshness are both enveloped in green plum fruits to give balancing freshness. 90 et Fils 2008 Vaillon Premier Cru a more opulent embrace. Imported by Wine Ready to drink. Imported by Williams Corner (Chablis); $45. Full and rich, packed with Symphony, Inc. —R.V. Wine. —R.V. green plum, pear and lime zest flavors, this is a generous wine, its broad fruit offering both fresh- Pascal Bouchard 2008 Beauroy La Chablisienne 2009 Pas si Petit ness and richness. There is a great final balance 89 Premier Cru (Chablis); $NA. A 86 (Petit Chablis); $17. Petit Chablis is between toast and fruit. Imported by Frederick mouthwateringly fresh wine, its acidity giving a such an unfortunate appellation name, hence La Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. classic steely, mineral texture. The citrus fruit is Chablisiennne’s play on words with Pas si Petit

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 (not so small). The wine is light, flavored with years. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. pear, and lemon streaked with acidity. Multiple CÔTE D’OR PREMIER CRU Cellar Selection. —R.V. U.S. importers. —R.V. Domaine Leflaive 2008 Les Maison Champy 2008 Sous Frétille La Chablisienne 2009 La Pierrelée 95 Pucelles Premier Cru (Puligny- 90 Premier Cru (Pernand-Verge- Montrachet); $260. 86 (Chablis); $21. Clean, fresh Chablis, A fine, elegant wine, with lesses); $NA. A tense and mineral wine, it has a balanced toast and acidity, great ripe apricot fla- with white fruit and greengage plum flavors, giv- cool character with the wood offering a dry and vors along with spice from the toast, acidity, citrus toasty edge to the citrus and steel texture. It is ing it a deliciously juicy character, textured by and a hint of ginger. Still very young, this pure still young, needing time for the wood to really grapefruit peel and lemongrass spice. Imported fruited wine could age over 6–10 years. Imported integrate. Keep for 3–4 years. Imported by Lang- by multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. by Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. don Shiverick. —R.V.

Pascal Bouchard 2009 Le Classique Joseph Drouhin 2007 Marquis de Maison Jessiaume 2008 Charmes 86 (Chablis); $20. Simple Chablis, as ripe 95 Laguiche Morgeot Premier Cru 90 Premier Cru (Meursault); $65. and fresh as they come. There are almonds, white (Chassagne-Montrachet); $99. The magnif- Round, smooth, this wine lives up to its charming fruits, a touch of honey. A deliciously drinkable icent wines from the Marquis de Laguiche estate name. Yellow fruits and sweet grapefruit go well wine. Imported by Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. are produced by Joseph Drouhin. This Morgeot together, the wood and acidity showing through is rich, intense, beautifully concentrated. It has the ripeness. Juicy, toasty, the wine has an attrac- Pascal Bouchard 2008 Les Vieilles toast, apricot and peach fruits to go with its tight tive edge on the finish. Imported by USA Wine 85 Vignes (Chablis); $22. A toasty wine, mineral texture. Delicious now, but will age for West. —R.V. its ripe fruit enveloped by a buttery character. many years. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. The loss of fresh fruit is compensated for by the Cellar Selection. —R.V. Domaine Jessiaume 2008 Grav- soft texture and full-in-the-mouth feel. Imported 88 ières Premier Cru (Santenay); $40. Domaine Leflaive 2008 Les by Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. Lightly wood-flavored wine, emphasizing also the 93 Folatières Premier Cru (Puligny- ripe peach and quince flavors. There is a spicy Montrachet); $220. Rich and rounded, with touch, just a sprinkling of nutmeg, the wine ripe CÔTE D’OR GRAND CRU the toast sinking into the the rich yellow fruit and and full. Imported by USA Wine West. —R.V. spice. The wine is gorgeous, opulent, while Maison Champy 2008 Les Murg- Domaine Leflaive 2008 Bienv- retaining an intense acidity and an edge of miner- ality. For medium-term aging. Imported by Wil- ers des Dents de Chien Premier enues Bâtard-Montrachet; $410. A 88 97 son Daniels Ltd. —R.V. Cru (Saint-Aubin); $NA. The piles of rocks marvelously intense wine, the Chardonnay taken from the vineyard and heaped around the singing with light toast and acidity. The wine has Domaine Leflaive 2008 Sous le edge are what give the bizarre name of this vine- layers of green apple, spice, a tight texture and 93 Dos d’Ane Premier Cru (Meur- yard. To taste, the wine is soft, sweetly ripe with orange zest highlights. Age for at least seven sault); $155. Really ripe wine, with toast and an attractive, ripe creamy character, lifted by years. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar yellow fruits, laced with intense citric acidity and toast. Imported by Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. Selection. —R.V. a mineral edge, to go with the mouthwatering fruit. Needs to age for 5–6 years. Imported by Maison Champy 2008 Corton- Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. CÔTE D’OR VILLAGES 93 Charlemagne; $NA. A rich and gen- erous wine, its fruit flavors coming from all Maison Champy 2008 Les Domaine Leflaive 2008 Puligny- directions and centering on a powerful, concen- 92 Chenevottes Premier Cru (Chas- 92 Montrachet; $260. Balancing sweet trated core. The wine has opulence, a well- sagne-Montrachet); $NA. A delicious wine wood and mineral-driven citrus character, this is elegant and stylish, showing peach and grapefruit judged amount of wood, and aging potential for that steers a wonderful path between crisp, min- eral acidity and opulent white and yellow fruits. flavors. The wood, so fine, acts as balance and six years or more. Imported by Langdon Shiver- There is a sense of style and poise here, acidity support. Age for 5–6 years. Imported by Wilson ick. —R.V. slipping neatly into the ripe fruit. It has aging Daniels Ltd. —R.V. potential for 5–6 years, probably more. Imported Maison Jessiaume 2008 Corton- by Langdon Shiverick. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Manuel Olivier 2008 Meursault; Charlemagne; $80. 93 An appropriately 90 $29. Full, rich and fat, this is classic, rich wine, full, toasty and dense. The fruit is Manuel Olivier 2008 Premier Cru ripe yellow fruit-flavored Meursault with good beautifully balanced with ripe acidity, just a touch 92 (Meursault); $49. Superripe fruit acidity. A finely balanced, wood-aged wine with of spice, citrus and an opulent, full-bodied char- gives the wine weight and richness, toast and good concentration from the lees stirring during acter. It will certainly age, but is already very peach and pineapple fruits. Old vines give the fermentation. Imported by Pierre Courdurie drinkable. Imported by USA Wine West. —R.V. concentration and opulent fruit. Worth aging 2–3 Selections. —R.V.

WineMag.com | 31 BUYING I GUIDE

a wine that is open, soft, generous in character. It toasted bread lead to an orange zest finish. RULLY misses out on much depth of flavor, although it Imported by George Wines. —R.V. does have some spice and light acidity. Imported Joseph Drouhin 2007 Rully; $20. by K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. Domaine Cordier 2008 Charnay 88 White Rully is one of the unsung values 83 Vieilles Vignes (Mâcon-Charnay); of Burgundy. This soft, attractive ripe wine is a $NA. Smoky, toasty aromas announce a wood- pleasure to drink. It has a buttery, toast character OTHER MÂCONNAIS dominant wine. It is all spice, nutmeg and along with crisp acidity, delicious apricot fruit and burnt wood. Imported by Robert Kacher a mouthwatering aftertaste. Imported by Drey- Domaine Leflaive 2008 Mâcon- Imports. —R.V. fus, Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 91 Verze; $36. An impressively full wine, its ripe apricot flavors melding seamlessly into Maison Champy 2009 Rully; $NA. rich wood and concentrated flavors. The lemon BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 86 A soft, buttery wine, full and fat, that acidity enlivens the ripe yellow fruits, leaving a shows rich fruit flavors. Warm spice and toast rich final impression. Imported by Wilson Manuel Olivier 2008 Vieilles wrap around apricot and pear fruits, light acidity Daniels Ltd. —R.V. 87 Vignes (Bourgogne Aligoté); $15. well integrated. To drink now. Imported by Lang- A ripe wine, showing good concentration from don Shiverick. —R.V. Louis Jadot 2008 Mâcon-Lugny; old vines. Flavors are of black currant, red 88 $15. Fresh and bright, dominated by its apples and tangy mandarin, the acidity intense citrus and almond flavors. It has a soft, creamy and bright. Imported by Pierre Courdurie POUILLY-FUISSÉ texture, with highlights of orange zest, green Selections. —R.V. plums and a great burst of acidity. Imported by Domaine du Chalet Pouilly 2008 Manuel Olivier 2009 Bourgogne Kobrand. —R.V. 90 Elevé en Fûts de Chêne (Pouilly- 84 Aligoté; $12. Crisp, creamy wine, with Fuissé); $40. A complex, wood-aged wine, full Louis Jadot 2009 Chardonnay attractive juicy apple and pink grapefruit flavors. in the mouth, balancing well between toast and It’s light, ready to drink, a great apéritif style. (Mâcon-Villages); $14. Ripe wine, sweet melon and apple flavors, spiked with 87 Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. pushing its toast, pear and apricot flavors. grapefruit acidity. It would be worth aging for Smooth, with an English walnut taste, and green 2–3 years. Imported by Zachy’s. —R.V. herb acidity. Ready to drink now. Imported by BOURGOGNE Kobrand. —R.V. Domaine du Chalet Pouilly 2008 Pouilly-Fuissé; $33. This crisp wine Domaine Leflaive 2008 Chardon- 89 Cave de Lugny 2009 L’Aurore has bright fruits, lively acidity and a vibrant min- nay (Bourgogne); $56. A mix of (Mâcon-Chardonnay); $NA. Full- 88 eral character. It could develop for another 1–2 85 fresh citrus and toasty wood work well together in bodied wine, with a hint of toffee to go with the years. Imported by Zachy’s. —R.V. this elegant wine. The texture is soft, rounded, ripe yellow fruits and open texture. Not for aging, finishing with a great dash of lime. This is sophis- it offers ripe pleasure now. Imported by Viceroy Domaine Pascal et Mireille ticated white Burgundy. Imported by Wilson 89 Renaud 2009 Vieilles Vignes Imports. —R.V. Daniels Ltd. —R.V. (Pouilly-Fuissé); $NA. There is a good min- Domaine Pascal et Mireille eral character here, a steely edge to the ripe apri- Joseph Drouhin 2009 Laforet Renaud 2009 Mâcon-Villages; cot and yellow plum flavors. The wine has 85 84 (Bourgogne); $13. Soft Chardonnay, enough acidity to maintain its fresh side, and a $NA. Rounded wine, very soft. The ripeness of with pear and walnut flavors, light acidity and fine lift on the finish. Imported by K&L Wine the fruit is very apparent and fits with its almond rounded buttery flavors. There is an attractive Merchants. —R.V. and peach flavors and its acidity brings an attrac- final richness. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & tive final tang. Imported by K&L Wine Mer- Co. —R.V. chants. —R.V. SAINT-VÉRAN Manuel Olivier 2008 Bourgogne Domaine Chêne 2007 Mâcon-Vil- 84 Chardonnay (Hautes Côtes de Domaine du Chalet Pouilly 2009 84 lages; $NA. A wine that is absolutely Nuits); $18. Fresh, bright wine that feels light 86 Saint-Véran; $20. Full and soft, this mature, showing almonds and secondary flavors: in texture and weight. That makes it suited for is a ripe and creamy wine, with generous melon green herbs, yeast and toast rather than fruit. shellfish rather than more intense dishes. Attrac- and rich apple fruits. It is already delicious, Imported by Wine Adventures Inc. —R.V. tive, ready to drink. Imported by Pierre Cour- though simple. Imported by Zachy’s. —R.V. durie Selections. —R.V. Domaine Sangouard-Guyot 2009 Domaine Pascal et Mireille 84 Mâcon-Villages; $NA. A lightweight Michel Picard 2007 Chardonnay 86 Renaud 2009 Champs de Perdrix wine with flavors of bitter almonds, pears, soft 82 (Bourgogne); $14. A soft, open wine (Saint-Véran); $NA. The warmth of 2009 gives and rounded. Stone fruits and a yeasty touch of that tastes dilute but at least finishes cleanly.

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 There are many better, more characterful, basic acidity, There is a yeasty edge, some bitter Maison Jessiaume 2008 Cham- white Burgundies on the market. Imported by almonds and a final zing. Not for aging. Imported 94 bertin; $115. At the pinnacle of Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. by Viceroy Imports. —R.V. Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambertin Grand Cru produces immensely powerful wines. This Jessi- Manuel Olivier NV Rosé Brut (Cré- aume fits the profile well, while also having deli- CRÉMANT DE 87 mant de Bourgogne); $17. cious juiciness to go with the dark tannins and Rounded and attractively soft, the wine has acidity. The result is stylish as well as concen- BOURGOGNE mouthwatering raspberry and almond flavors. trated. Age for 10 years at least. Imported by It feels warm, even rich, with its layers of acid- USA Wine West. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Bailly-Lapierre 2005 Egarade Brut ity enveloped by ripe fruits. A sparkling wine 92 (Crémant de Bourgogne); $26. for food. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selec- Maison Jessiaume 2008 Mazis- Egarade means a “mysterious evening stroll,” tions. —R.V. 93 Chambertin; $110. Mineral textured, according to the producer. Perhaps the idea is this wine pushes the power of wines in Gevrey- that you lose track of time in this wine. A blend of Parigot & Richard NV Parigot Chambertin. It is all tannins, dark structure, pow- Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it is rich and full- 87 Blanc de Blancs Brut (Crémant de erful acidity, very concentrated. It needs many bodied with a good weight of white and green Bourgogne); $23. With its 20% of Aligoté years—10 or more. Imported by USA Wine fruits and a final nervy texture and acidity. (80% Chardonnay), the wine is particularly light West. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Imported by William Harrison Imports. Editors’ and bubbly. Its acidity is intense, giving a grape- Choice. —R.V. fruit and lemon juice character. It tastes very dry, Maison Jessiaume 2008 Corton relying on ripe fruit for its final softness. Perrières; $65. Structured and concen- Bailly-Lapierre NV Chardonnay Imported by Garber and Co. —R.V. 93 trated, this is a wine for long-term aging. It has Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne); 90 powerful dark tannins, acidity, a touch of leather $24. Produced close to Chablis and not far from Manuel Olivier NV Brut (Crémant and farmyard, all adding to the complexity of this itself, this pure Chardonnay Blanc de Bourgogne); $17. Crisp, fresh 86 dense wine. Age for at least six years. Imported de Blancs has a fine steely, mineral character, sparkling wine, lightly creamy but more going by USA Wine West. Cellar Selection. —R.V. enhanced by white fruits and knife-sharp acidity. towards green fruits, tight acidity. It doesn’t need Worth aging for a year. Imported by William Har- any bottle aging and really should be drunk in Maison Jessiaume 2008 Clos de rison Imports. —R.V. the next year to keep its essential freshness. Vougeot; $105. Rich, packed with Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. 93 Bailly-Lapierre NV Brut Réserve juicy fruit. The wine has weight, depth of fruit (Crémant de Bourgogne); $15/375 flavor and tannins as a central core. A smoky 89 character indicates the wood aging, packing in ml. Based on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Aligoté SAINT BRIS with the acidity and black cherry fruits on the fin- and , this is a typical light, creamy and ish. Age for 5–8 years. Imported by USA Wine frothy Crémant. It has lively pear and red apple La Chablisienne 2009 Saint Bris; juice flavors, with great crisp acidity. Imported 86 $13. Saint-Bris to the west of Chablis is West. —R.V. by William Harrison Imports. —R.V. noted for its Sauvignon Blanc. This wine has an Manuel Olivier 2008 Clos de attractive grassy character, showing good tangy Vougeot; $100. Parigot & Richard NV Parigot Rosé freshness, orange zest and grapefruit. Screwcap. 88 While there are 88 Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne); Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. plenty of firm tannins and weight here, the wine $23. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, this is a does feel somewhat hollow. The red fruits are vividly crisp wine, tight, with strawberry flavors there, showing slowly against the tannins. It has laced with intense acidity and a tangy, zesty edge. RED fine final acidity, but not the power and concen- Lively, bright, with a fruity finish. Imported by tration you should expect. Imported by Pierre Willette Wines. —R.V. BURGUNDY Courdurie Selections. —R.V.

Bailly-Lapierre NV Rosé Brut (Cré- CÔTE D’OR GRAND CRU 87 mant de Bourgogne); $24. A CÔTE D’OR PREMIER CRU delightful, light, strawberry wine. It has a bright, Maison Jessiaume 2008 Chapelle- bubbly character and acidity that gives extra life 94 Chambertin; $105. An impressive Domaine Jessiaume 2008 Brouil- to this classic apéritif wine. There is just a hint of wine, full of smoky fruit, concentrated black 92 lards Premier Cru (Volnay); $50. softness from the fruit to finish. Imported by cherry flavors and rich acidity. It has a com- Here is all the right Volnay richness. The tannins William Harrison Imports. —R.V. plete feel to it, the tannins well integrated into give the wine a firm edge, a support for the soft, the heart of the wine. There is a final fresh- opulent center. Black berry and damson flavors Cave de Lugny NV Brut (Crémant ness, liveliness, but don’t be fooled—age it for are dominant, offering acidity to go with the ripe 87 de Bourgogne); $NA. A light, softly at least seven years. Imported by USA Wine texture. Age for 5–6 years. Imported by USA sparkling wine, its apple flavors laced with citric West. —R.V. Wine West. Cellar Selection. —R.V.

WineMag.com | 33 BUYING I GUIDE

Maison Jessiaume 2008 Aux massive side of Gevrey Chambertin. The wine is Domaine Jessiaume 2008 Clos 91 Echanges Premier Cru (Cham- dense, dark, with black plum and fig flavors, leav- 88 Genet (Santenay); $35. Rounded bolle-Musigny); $55. A straight, austere wine, ened with attractive juicy acidity. Tannins thread and soft, very approachable. It has attractive rasp- very concentrated. Tannins are solidly extracted, through the acidity. Age for 2–3 years. Imported berry fruit and lively acidity, while the structure giving a dry tough edge. It definitely needs aging. by Pierre Courdurie Selections. Cellar Selec- evolves slowly to show the dry edge of tannins Imported by USA Wine West. —R.V. tion. —R.V. and smoky aftertaste. For drinking now and over 4–5 years. Imported by USA Wine West. —R.V. Domaine Jessiaume 2008 Grav- Maison Jessiaume 2008 Les Her- 90 ières Premier Cru (Santenay); $40. 90 buottes (Morey Saint-Denis); $45. Manuel Olivier 2008 Aloxe-Cor- Firm and dark wine, its solid tannins very much A firm, structured wine. Although at Villages rather 88 ton; $29. A soft and deliciously jammy to the fore. There is also a strong toasty wood than Premier Cru level, it has considerable tannins wine. It has immediately attractive ripe plum and element that needs time to blend in what will be and sweet fruits that roll around the mouth. The berry fruits, layered with balancing acidity. The ripe, sweet fruits, freshened with pungent acidity. acidity and texture point to a good few years’ aging. tannins sit well in the plump cushion of the wine. For aging. Imported by USA Wine West. Edi- Imported by USA Wine West. —R.V. Not for aging. Imported by Pierre Courdurie tors’ Choice. —R.V. Manuel Olivier 2008 Morey Saint- Selections. —R.V. Maison Jessiaume 2008 Les Denis; $29. Rich and smooth, packed 90 Domaine Jessiaume 2008 Sante- Fremiers Premier Cru (Volnay); with strawberry and black berry flavors. It has 90 nay; $28. $55. Big, solid, tough wine, packed with dark weight as well, coming from a fine layer of wood, 87 Jessiaume is based in Sante- toast-laden tannins. The fruit has weight as spice and solid tannins. There is great acidity, bal- nay and the wine shows the attraction of this well, plum skin and black cherry juice with ancing well with the firm structure. For medium- village at the southern end of the Côte de balanced acidity. This is a powerful wine that term aging. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Beaune. It reveals soft fruit, warmed by a jammy needs aging for 6–7 years. Imported by USA Selections. —R.V. layer of red berries and ripe acidity. Imported by Wine West. —R.V. USA Wine West. —R.V. Manuel Olivier 2008 Chambolle- Manuel Olivier 2008 Premier Cru 90 Musigny; $29. A very dense wine, Manuel Olivier 2008 Pommard; 89 (Pommard); $59. Firmly tannic, solid packed with red fruits, showing ripe concentra- 86 $39. A fruity wine, showing fresh berry and chunky wine. The ripe strawberry flavors are tion. There is an underlying toast and spice char- fruits, maybe too fresh with the pronounced acid- balanced by firm tannins and a dark edge of plum acter to balance the sweet fruit. The weight is ity. The tannins are there, seeming to float in the skins. Should be aged for another year. Imported there now, the richness will come later. Imported juicy character of the wine. Imported by Pierre by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. Courdurie Selections. —R.V.

Domaine Jessiaume 2008 Beaune Manuel Olivier 2008 Nuits-St.- Manuel Olivier 2008 Vieilles 85 Cent-Vignes Premier Cru 90 Georges; $39. There is a good amount 85 Vignes (Hautes Côtes de Nuits); (Beaune); $45. At Jessiaume, the wines can of the square, chunky Nuits Saint-Georges feel to $19. There is a depth of flavor and concentra- sometimes be overextracted. That’s the case this wine. Manuel Olivier is based in the town, so tion from low- old vines. The style gives here—it has plenty of attractive red cherry fruit, should know his stuff, and has blended a solid, raspberry flavors and acidity, with a light tan- but also has bitter, tough tannins and layers of firm wine, with a dark edge of tannins, balanced nic character. Imported by Pierre Courdurie wood, leaving a burnt taste. Imported by USA by acid freshness. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. Wine West. —R.V. Selections. —R.V. Manuel Olivier 2008 Hautes Côtes Maison Jessiaume 2008 Volnay; de Nuits; $14. Light Pinot Noir, with CÔTE D’OR VILLAGES $45. A delicious Volnay, all warm fruits 84 89 crisp raspberry flavors. The very fruity wine has and sweet tannins. The wine is soft as well as Manuel Olivier 2008 Les juicy, enjoying ripe cherry and red plum juice fla- an edge of bitterness to go with the acidity. 92 Damaudes (Vosne-Romanée); $39. vors. The tannins and acidity give a gentle boost. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. Dark colored wine, which translates into richness Drink now, or age for 3–4 years. Imported by and flavors of full-bodied damsons and plum USA Wine West. —R.V. fruits, with finely judged tannins and wood. Nat- BOURGOGNE ural power, with concentration and final acidity to Manuel Olivier 2008 Vosne- give just the right lift. Imported by Pierre Cour- 89 Romanée; $49. Full-bodied wine, rich Domaine Jessiaume 2008 Pinot durie Selections. —R.V. and rounded. It has its edge of tannins underlying 84 Noir (Bourgogne); $20. An easy, the ripe cherry fruits. There is a jammy character fruity wine, its attractive red cherry flavors bub- Manuel Olivier 2008 Gevrey- that seems to diminish any acidity, making this a bling away in soft tannins and light acidity. Very 91 Chambertin; $39. Dark colored and wine for drinking soon. Imported by Pierre Cour- drinkable, and not for aging. Imported by USA powerful, this is a great expression of the more durie Selections. —R.V. Wine West. —R.V.

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Manuel Olivier 2009 Pinot Noir smoky aroma and ripe red berry fruits. The tan- 84 (Bourgogne); $12. An attractively nins are gentle, rounded, lying easily over the simple, fruity Pinot Noir. It has ripe wild straw- fruit and the hint of acidity coming through the berry and red plum flavors, spiced with a gamey toasty, tobacco character. Imported by USA Wine Roger et Didier Raimbault 2008 edge. The wine has a light structure, and is not West. —R.V. 92 Vieilles Vignes (Sancerre); $26. for aging. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selec- Aromas of currants and tropical fruits are fol- tions. —R.V. lowed by ripe nectarine and star fruit flavors with SANCERRE the acidity coming from a fresh pineapple charac- ter. It’s an intense wine, with delicious, full con- LOIRE Roger et Didier Raimbault 2008 centration of flavors. Imported by T. Edward 87 Rouge (Sancerre); $22. Smooth, vel- Wines Ltd. —R.V. RED WINES vet-textured wine. It tastes like munching into mouthwatering black cherries. The acidity is Roger et Didier Raimbault 2009 SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY important but not overwhelming. Ready to drink 90 Sancerre; $22. Soft, ripe quince and now. Imported by T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. pear flavors are lifted by the presence of pink Hospices de Saumur 2009 Clos grapefruit. The wine has weight as well, the ripe 89 (Saumur-Champigny); $24. Sauvignon blossoming in the glass. It's crisp, Bright, red berried wine from the charity-owned TOURAINE ROUGE while also having a rounder profile. Imported by vineyards of the Hospices de Saumur. It has soft T. Edward Wines Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. tannins and an attractive ripe cherry juice charac- Domaine des Pierrettes 2009 Equi- ter, layered with acidity. Imported by Bourgeois 86 librium (Touraine); $16. You want a Sauvion 2010 Loire Valley Family Selections. —R.V. fruity fresh red? This is it, a welter of light, 88 (Sancerre); $29. Very fruity in charac- bright red berry fruits, intense acidity and ter, in high tension, its acidity pushing through Antoine Sanzay 2009 Saumur- light tannins. Not for aging, probably for the mineral texture and ripe fruit. Imported by 88 Champigny; $24. A very pure wine, drinking lightly chilled. Imported by Demon- W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. its red berry fruits dominating lively acidity as toux Fine Wines. —R.V. well as a tight, tannic, dry core. Imported by Jeff Pierre Chainier 2010 Couronne et Washburn Selections. —R.V. 87 Lions (Sancerre); $NA. A complex LOIRE style, its acidity very well defined, full-bodied, Clos des Cordeliers 2006 Prestige tasting very mineral. The gooseberry fruit flavors 88 (Saumur-Champigny); $NA. With WHITE WINES meld into a final herbal character. Imported by good concentration as well as stalky tannins, this Bronco Wine Company. —R.V. is a wine that has acidity and a touch of black POUILLY-FUMÉ jelly. Fresh at the end, well balanced. Imported Xavier Flouret 2009 Domaine by Paul M. Young Fine Wines. —R.V. Château de Tracy 2006 Haute 87 Chatelain French Blonde 92 Densité (Pouilly-Fumé); $51. A big, (Sancerre); $25. As crisp and clean as they Clos des Cordeliers 2009 Cuvée ripe wine, still very young and fresh in the mouth, come, this smooth and creamy Sauvignon bursts 87 Tradition (Saumur-Champigny); showing how concentrated Sauvignon Blanc can with just the right amount of herbaceous, green $NA. With bright acidity, this is a ripe wine, age well. From a densely planted vineyard, the pea and grapefruit flavors. It is great to drink as showing a fresh, stalky character balanced by wine is bold, with a hint of minerality. It will age an apéritif or with food. Imported by Cognac firm tannins. Imported by Paul M. Young Fine for several more years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. One, LLC. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. Château de Tracy 2009 Mademoi- Langlois-Chateau 2009 Château 87 selle de T (Pouilly-Fumé); $23. The 84 de Fontaine-Audin (Sancerre); ANJOU bright young thing in the Tracy range, this is an $35. A simple style, with nutty notes. There is an intensely herbal wine, its acidity fully integrated edge of bitterness, the wine’s freshness masked Château de Fesles 2009 La into a rich texture. It’s packed with lemon, green by some weight. Imported by Terlato Wines 87 Chapelle Vieilles Vignes (Anjou); plum and pink grapefruit flavors. Give it six International. —R.V. $16. Ripe, berry-flavored wine, with tobacco months. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. overtones, contrasting with stalky acidity. The wine finishes on the fruity side, with red berries Sauvion 2010 Loire Valley (Pouilly- TOURAINE and plums Imported by Frederick Wildman & 86 Fumé); $30. Full, ripe wine, lightly Sons, Ltd. —R.V. smoky in character. There are flavors of man- Domaine des Pierrettes 2009 Ele- darin orange and lime enveloped within a min- 88 ment Terre (Touraine); $16. Pure Château Coudray Montpensier eral structure. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sauvignon Blanc, this is herbal while also crisp, 86 2009 Chinon; $15. Soft wine, with a Sons. —R.V. very fruity, bright and lively. Gooseberry juice

WineMag.com | 35 BUYING I GUIDE dominates this intense wine. Imported by Chateau Moncontour 2009 Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V. 87 Moelleux (); $19. With SAVENNIÈRES baked apple aromas, this is a soft, sweet, creamy Domaine Joël Delaunay 2009 Le wine, remaining fresh, with hints of white fruits Domaine du Closel 2005 Clos du 87 Bois Martin (Touraine); $NA. Ripe, and honey, finishing with lively acidity. Imported 90 Papillon (Savennières); $40. Now soft wine, deliciously rounded with fresh white by USA Wine West. —R.V. at its peak, this impressive wine is showing and green fruits combining into a creamy herba- ripe white fruits touched with almonds, a soft ceousness. There is a final tang to this concen- Domaine de Vaugondy 2009 Sec texture and a rich, creamy feel. The Clos du trated, full wine. Screwcap. Imported by Robert 87 (Vouvray); $15. Dry wine, with bitter Papillon, so called because the vineyard is Kacher Imports. —R.V. almond and final grapefruit flavors over a base of shaped like a butterfly (papillon) is a star per- tight, smoky acidity. The wine is ripe, nutty in former in Savennières. Imported by Louis Domaine Guenault 2009 Touraine; character. on the way to closing up for 2–3 years. Dressner Selections. —R.V. 86 $14. While the aroma is characteristi- Imported by European Wine Imports. —R.V. cally herbaceous, the palate is softer, with a Domaine du Closel 2009 La rounded grassy, gooseberry flavor. It's clean, Domaine Vincent Carême 2007 88 Jalousie (Savennières); $20. The fresh, with just a tang of orange zest. Imported by 87 Spring (Vouvray); $26. A deliciously aroma says honey, but the palate says dry. It is an Saranty Imports. —R.V. fruity wine, with flavors of pear, quince and sul- attractive paradox that results in a ripe wine, full tanas in a full, ripe sauce. Rich, with good con- of pure white currant, star fruit and, yes, honey Pierre Chainier 2010 Château de centration, worth aging for 3–4 years. Imported flavors. It is not a wine for long aging, but will 86 Pocé (Touraine); $NA. Very tangy, by Jenny and François Selections. —R.V. keep for 2–4 years. Imported by Louis Dressner nervous wine with lively acidity and crisp fruit. Selections. —R.V. There is a fresh, very steely character, and a min- Pierre Chainier 2010 Clos de eral, chewy aftertaste. Imported by Bronco Wine 87 Nouys Sec (Vouvray); $NA. There Company. —R.V. is a good touch of honey here, with attractive fruit ANJOU flavors and layers of almonds, spice and a ripe Pierre Chainier 2010 Château de finish. Imported by Bronco Wine Company. — Château de Fesles 2009 Anjou; 85 la Roche (Touraine); $NA. Classic R.V. 89 $16. Aged in acacia wood barrels, which crisp, tangy wine, with plenty of grapefruit fla- give less wood flavor than oak, this is an attrac- vors, very fresh, crisp and clean. Imported by Pierre Chainier 2010 Clos de tive, lightly oxidized wine with a toasty edge, Bronco Wine Company. —R.V. 86 Nouys Demi-Sec (Vouvray); $NA. very dry with almond and honeyed fruit fla- This is on the dry side of medium dry, very soft, vors. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Sauvion 2010 Loire Valley with flavors of nuts, lemon and pear juice. The Ltd. —R.V. 85 (Touraine); $14. Perfumed with white finish is bright with acidity. Imported by Bronco flowers, this wine is crisp, bright and light in Wine Company. —R.V. Hospices de Saumur 2009 Clos character. Lovely, pure acidity is highlighted in 88 Cristal (Anjou); $24. Dominated by an attractive combination. Imported by W.J. Caves du Val de 2009 Jovly cantaloupe melon and honey, this is an off-dry Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. 84 (Vouvray); $12. What would convince wine, deliciously fresh, with a strong streak of a producer to call a wine Jovly seems to be a acidity. It is ripe, with pure fruit flavors and a mystery. That said, the wine is fresh, rounded very crisp finish. Imported by Bourgeois Family VOUVRAY with plenty of orange juice acidity, honey and a Selections. —R.V. soft finish. Screwcap. Imported by USA Wine Chateau Moncontour 2009 Sec West. —R.V. 89 (Vouvray); $16. Swathes of dry fruits, SÈVRE ET white currants, herbs and almonds make this a Sauvion 2010 Loire Valley Demi- classic young Chenin Blanc from Vouvray. It is 84 Sec (Vouvray); $15. Lemony, fruit- MAINE fresh, tight, lined with acidity. Drink now, or age driven wine, very crisp in character, with 4–5 years. Imported by USA Wine West. —R.V. lightness and delicacy. Acidity and a touch of pear Sauvion 2010 Château du Cléray flavor offer balance Imported by W.J. Deutsch & 88 (Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine); $12. Domaine Vincent Carême 2008 Sons. —R.V. Full-bodied wine, but with an edge of fresh 89 Cuvée T Brut (Vouvray); $25. grapefruit flavor and bright acidity. This estate Sparkling Vouvray, full of rich fruit, with layers of Bougrier 2009 Doulce France Muscadet balances ripeness with classic Mus- almonds, toasted bread and intense acidity. It is a 82 (Vouvray); $14. A medium-sweet cadet lightness. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & tangy wine, with an apple skin texture over a light wine, attractively nutty in character with dried Sons. Best Buy. —R.V. creamy mousse. Imported by Jenny and François apricot flavor and some acidity. Imported by Selections. —R.V. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Domaine de Beauregard 2009 86 Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine; $NA.

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Showing tightly crisp grapefruit and citrus fla- Great final acidity. Imported by T. Edward Wines vors, with an intense dryness and acidity, this is OTHER LOIRE WHITES Ltd. —R.V. classic Muscadet, fresh, very bright and green. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Château de Fesles 2007 Bon- Domaine des Pierrettes 2009 Eros 91 nezeaux; $NA. Packed with botrytis, 86 Rosé (Touraine); $16. Piercingly Pierre Chainier 2010 Couronne et the wine has great concentration, balanced with fresh, delicious rosé from the Touraine region. It 84 Lions (Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine); freshness. Orange zest is touched with liquid honey, is crisp and dry, although with some caramel soft- $NA. A lightweight wine that relies on its fresh- and finished with a rich lemon character. Imported ness, bursting with red berry fruits. Imported by ness to score. A tight fruit texture goes with by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V. intense grapefruit flavors. An apéritif style of Muscadet, with the fruitiness emphasized. Domaine de Salvard 2008 Delailie Manuel Olivier 2008 Rosé (Hautes Imported by Bronco Wine Company. —R.V. 88 (Cheverny); $16. A lightly perfumed 85 Côtes de Nuits); $12. Caramel aro- wine, from a blend with a dominance of Sauvignon mas along with ripe strawberry flavors give an Sauvion 2010 Loire Valley (Mus- Blanc. Citrus, almonds and piercing acidity combine underlying softness. It has some acidity, certainly, 84 cadet Sèvre Et Maine); $13. Light- to give a bright, light, very dry wine. Imported by giving a lift to this attractive wine that comes weight fresh fruit flavors, mostly grapefruit and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. from vines in the hills above Nuits Saint-Georges. clean freshness. The wine is attractively fruity in Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. style. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. Philippe Portier 2009 Quincy; $21. 88 Herbaceous and with an extra ripeness Château de Fesles 2010 Rosé from the fine summer of 2009, this is a deli- 84 d’Anjou; $16. With some weight, this OTHER MUSCADET ciously smooth wine, the Sauvignon’s natural has raspberry flavor to go with its sweetness. acidity balanced by sweet apple juice over a Berry fruits dominate in a wine that is full in the Domaine du Haut Bourg 2009 greengage skin texture. Imported by Robert mouth. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, 86 Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu; Kacher Imports. —R.V. Ltd. —R.V. $14. On the rich side for a Muscadet, with acid- ity adding to the yeast, citrus and grapefruit fla- Domaine Guindon 2006 Malvoisie Sauvion 2010 Loire Valley (Rosé vors. There is a great zingy character, finishing 86 (Coteaux d’Ancenis); $14. Soft, 83 d’Anjou); $13. A strawberry-flavored, with intense acidity. Imported by Vanguard medium sweet wine with hints of honey, light medium-sweet wine, with lightness, freshness Wines. —R.V. apricot and acidity. This is a wine for chicken and a crisp, clean character. Imported by W.J. dishes or as an apéritif. Imported by Vintner Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. Domaine Guindon 2009 Saint- Select. —R.V. 86 Géréon sur lie (Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire); $12. A relatively full style of Bougrier 2009 Sauvignon Blanc LANGUEDOC Muscadet that has a strong grapefruit flavor. 84 (Vin de Pays du Val de Loire); $12. It is ripe—that’s the vintage—while still Soft and rounded wine, showing some herba- RED WINES retaining a good citrus edge. Imported by ceousness, and a sense of dilute fruit. The wine is Vintner Select. —R.V. pleasant, but undistinguished. Screwcap. COTEAUX DU Imported by Saranty Imports. —R.V. LANGUEDOC CRÉMANT DE LOIRE Joseph Mellot 2009 Sincerité 84 Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de Pays du Mas du Soleilla 2008 Les Bartelles Langlois-Chateau NV Brut (Cré- Val de Loire); $NA. Fresh-faced Sauvignon 92 La Clape (Coteaux du Languedoc); 90 mant de Loire); $27. An impressive, Blanc, with distinct citric character and a $38. This velvety red blend of 75% Syrah and full and ripe wine, with dryness and fruitiness green herbal edge. A lightweight wine that has 25% Grenache is dark and heady but approach- balanced with more complex mineral and tang. a great zesty finish. Imported by Fruit of the able and easily drinkable now. Boysenberry and Delicious and finely made. Imported by Terlato Vines, Inc. —R.V. black cherry flood the bouquet, accented by Wines International. —R.V. notes of purple flowers and cola. Balanced and lush in the mouth, the black raspberry fruit and Langlois-Chateau NV Brut Rosé ROSÉ peppery spice carry through to the long, evolving 88 (Crémant de Loire); $30. Dry in finish. Imported by Luxe . —L.B. character, touched by acidity, this is a raspberry- Roger et Didier Raimbault 2009 flavored wine, with a squeeze of lemon. The wine 88 Rosé (Sancerre); $22. Delicious, Château des Karantes 2008 La is full, but crisply dry. Imported by Terlato Wines fruity rosé, and as befits the vintage, with some 91 Clape Rouge (Coteaux du Langue- International. —R.V. weight and richness as well. The red berry fla- doc); $29. This La Clape red, made from 50% vors are overlaid with caramel and cinnamon. Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, is dark and herbal, with strong aromas of black

WineMag.com | 37 BUYING I GUIDE berries and plum guts supporting the garrigue bramble, forest berries and garrigue herbs, while acidity; 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Syrah and notes of lavender, thyme and bay leaf. More dark the medium-weight mouth shows more fruit fla- 10% . Imported by Clos Du Val fruit unfolds in the mouth alongside sweet cigar vors of black cherry and plum. The finish is long Wine/Goelet Wine Estates. —L.B. spice and notes of bittersweet chocolate, almost and tasty with strong wood-driven spice. Drink like a spiced Black Forest cake. Big and hedonis- now. Imported by Le Mas de l’Ecriture. —L.B. Domaines Astruc 2009 Reserve tic but silky and balanced; drink now–2014. 87 Merlot (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $13. Imported by Eagle Eye Imports. —L.B. Mas du Soleilla 2008 Le Soleilla Dark chocolate and rich plum sauce add com- 90 L’Intrus La Clape (Coteaux du plexity to this black fruit-driven Merlot. Black- Château des Karantes 2006 Dia- Languedoc); $35. Made of 50% , berry preserves and soft plum guts fill the mouth, 91 mant des Karantes La Clape 25% Syrah and 25% Grenache, there’s a touch of with a touch of green pepper appearing on the (Coteaux du Languedoc); $60. This 100% acetone in the nose here but it’s countered by finish. Medium weight with a creamy texture and Syrah is an intense wine that’s a complete pack- notes of black fruit, small wild berries and gar- a medium-length finish. Drink now. Imported by age of balanced fruit and spice. Wild raspberry, rigue herbs. Still tightly wound with firm tannins Grape Expectations (CA). —L.B. cherry, sweet hickory smoke and crushed violets and assertive acidity, the mouth is rich and fruity, are at the core here, with a touch of pepper and exhibiting strong cherry and berry flavors. Domaines Paul Mas 2009 Caber- mocha unfolding on the finish. Creamy and deca- Imported by Luxe Vintages. —L.B. 87 net Sauvignon (Vin de Pays d’Oc); dent in the mouth with firm but approachable $13. There’s a strong herbal component to this Chateau de Lancyre 2008 Coste tannins. Drink now–2014. Imported by Eagle wine, with assertive bay leaf and rosemary aromas d’Aleyrac Pic Saint-Loup (Coteaux Eye Imports. —L.B. 88 among the standard dark fruit character. Medium du Languedoc); $20. There’s a strong herbal weight in the mouth with structured tannins and Chateau de Lancyre 2008 Veilles presence in the bouquet of this wine (bay leaves, a coffee-infused finish. Drink now. Imported by Vignes Pic Saint-Loup (Coteaux du clover) that marries well with the red plum and 90 Wine Warehouse Imports. —L.B. Languedoc); $25. Kirsch, black currant, cured dried raspberry flavors. The mouth is smooth and meat and foliage notes lead the way on this con- creamy with a touch of tobacco spice lingering Domaines Astruc 2009 Reserve centrated, tightly structured wine. Dried black on the close. Drink now–2012. Imported by Cabernet Sauvignon (Vin de Pays cherry and fresh garrigue herbs fill the velvety Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. 86 d’Oc); $13. Opening aromas of black raspberry, textured mouth, and linger well into the finish cherry and carnation transition to darker fruit fla- alongside a touch of cocoa powder flavor. Drink Mas du Soleilla 2008 Les Chailles vors of cassis and cigar spice on the palate. now through 2014. Imported by Hand Picked La Clape (Coteaux du Languedoc); 88 Approachable tannins and medium weight make Selections. —L.B. $29. Of the many Mas du Soleilla offerings, this this an easy-drinking selection that’s perfect for one is the lightest of the bunch with bright and entertaining. Imported by Grape Expectations Gérard Bertrand 2008 Château lively notes of cherry Jell-O, sweet strawberry and (CA). —L.B. 90 l’Hospitalet La Reserve La Clape a touch of fresh thyme. The tannins are light but (Coteaux du Languedoc); $20. This dark there, with accents of waxy clove and weak coffee Barton & Guestier 2009 Reserve red blend of 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 30% on the close. Drink now. Imported by Luxe Vin- Merlot (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $8. Mourvèdre is all muscle and hard to refuse. tages. —L.B. 85 With Intense black cherry, boysenberry, game, violet 15,000 cases imported, this should be an easy and licorice all contribute to this big, tightly Domaine de Nizas 2007 Rouge wine to find and at such a price. Standard but structured wine. The long finish is like a journey 87 (Coteaux du Languedoc); $21. easily enjoyable with notes of black plum, dark all on its own, evolving from jammy fruit to pep- Here’s a fruit forward and very drinkable red cherry and fruitcake spice throughout. Drink pery spice and finally waxy dark chocolate. Drink blend of 60% Syrah, 35% Mourvèdre and 5% now. Imported by Barton & Guestier. Best now–2014. Imported by Gerard Bertrand USA. Grenache. Jammy red berry preserves, boysen- Buy. —L.B. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. berry and blueberry all present themselves in the fleshy mouth, with a fruitcake spice lingering Les Jamelles 2009 Merlot (Vin de Le Mas de l’Ecriture 2004 Les Pen- through the close. Imported by Clos Du Val 85 Pays d’Oc); $11. Straightforward but 90 sées (Coteaux du Languedoc); Wine/Goelet Wine Estates. —L.B. good, here’s an easy-drinking everyday wine with $30. Wild berries, forest floor, garrigue herbs light tannins, a satisfyingly round mouthfeel and and a touch of game fill the nose and mouth of assertive dark fruit flavors. A touch of milk choco- this medium-weight wine. The texture is like PAYS D’OC REDS late appears on the close. Imported by Cellar satin and the tannins fine, with a strong cocoa- Door Selections. —L.B. infused finish. Imported by Le Mas de l’Ecrit- Domaine de Nizas 2008 Le Mas ure. —L.B. 87 Rouge (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $13. Château de la Tuilerie 2009 Cele- Here’s a mineral-driven red with strong notes of 84 bration Merlot (Vin de Pays d’Oc); Le Mas de l’Ecriture 2004 L’écrit- black cherry and plum throughout the nose and $12. Lightweight but round, this Merlot is 90 ure (Coteaux du Languedoc); $38. mouth and a touch of dark chocolate on the close. missing a bit of lushness to its dark fruit core, The nose of this red offers assertive notes of Medium weight with firm tannins and medium with more skin-driven flavors of cherry and

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 plum. Imported by Domaine Select Wine crisp finish. Imported by Gerard Bertrand USA. Estates. —L.B. OTHER AC WHITES —L.B.

Le Dog 2009 de Jean Marc Merlot Château des Karantes 2009 Blanc Laurent Miquel 2010 Père et Fils Chardonnay-Viognier (Vin de Pays 84 (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $11. There’s a 88 (Languedoc); $29. An interesting 86 d’Oc); $10. Laurent Miquel has built a solid green edge to this wine that struggles with the richer blend of 50% Bourboulenc, 17% Roussanne, 17% Vermentino and 16% , this is reputation making clean wines at a superb dark berries and fudge cake flavors. Soft and round a different kind of white with great complexity. value, and this one doesn’t disappoint. Fresh in the mouth with a short finish. Imported by World The only thing holding this wine back is a thin and lively notes of sweet pea and honeysuckle Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. mouthfeel, but the aromas of fresh thyme, mingle with ripe tropical fruit and clementine orange, Asian pear and a touch of honey are citrus. Drink now. Imported by Miquel et Fils. Barton & Guestier 2009 Reserve undoubtedly enticing, and the well-balanced Best Buy. —L.B. Cabernet Sauvignon (Vin de Pays 84 fruit-forward palate is delish. Imported by Eagle d’Oc); $8. This wine is quite the bargain, offer- Eye Imports. —L.B. Laurent Miquel 2009 Nord Sud ing nice fruit and spice for under $10. Simply 86 Viognier (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $14. structured with soft tannins, juicy black currant Mas du Soleilla 2008 Réserve La Honeysuckle and fresh grass mingle with aromas and plum flavors all accented by a hint of pepper. 87 Clape (Coteaux du Languedoc); of nectarine and apricot pit on the bouquet, while Drink now. Imported by Barton & Guestier. Best $38. This 75% Roussanne/25% Bourboulenc the mouth offers vibrant flavors of sweet citrus and juicy fresh peach slices. Balanced and easy to Buy. —L.B. blend beautifully expresses its terroir by way of a nose full of garrigue herbs—predomi- drink with a kiss of toast on the close. Drink now. Imported by Miquel et Fils. —L.B. Les Vignerons de la Méditerranée nantly fresh thyme and bay leaves—against a backdrop of red apple aromas. The palate is 84 2009 Réserve St. Martin Cabernet Les Jamelles 2009 Chardonnay rich and full, with flavors of wood-grilled stone Sauvignon (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $10. Here’s (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $11. Fresh apple, fruit, toasted walnuts and orange essence. 86 a simple but enjoyable Cab with notes of black green grass, dandelion and a touch of soft smoke Imported by Luxe Vintages. —L.B. plum, violet and cassis. Medium weight with soft emanate from the glass, transitioning to flavors tannins and a solid finish. Imported by Pasternak of gingered peach and spicy orange on the palate. Wine Imports. —L.B. PAYS D’OC WHITES Medium weight and well structured with nice complexity and evolution. Drink now. Imported by Cellar Door Selections. Best Buy. —L.B. Le Dog 2009 de Christophe Caber- Domaines Astruc 2009 dA 82 net Sauvignon (Vin de Pays d’Oc); Chardonnay (Vin de Pays d’Oc); 87 Barton & Guestier 2010 Reserve $11. Ripe raspberry, spicy red plum and licorice $12. Alive and dainty with soft orange blossom Chardonnay (Vin de Pays d’Oc); unfold on the nose, while soft flavors of cassis notes paired with fresh red apple slices and a 85 $8. The B&G line doesn’t disappoint in value, chime in on the palate. Light weight and watery touch of nuttiness. The mouth is more of the and here you get a delicious Chard for under $10. same, with a distinct peach pit flavor unfolding on with a short finish. Imported by World Premiere Vibrant tropical fruit, melon, and peach fill the Wines LLC. —L.B. the medium-length finish. Imported by Grape round mouth, and though the finish is short it is Expectations (CA). Best Buy. —L.B. also clean. Drink now. Imported by Barton & Guestier. Best Buy. —L.B. LANGUEDOC Domaines Astruc 2009 dA 87 Marsanne (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $12. Château de la Tuilerie 2009 Cele- WHITE WINES Hard peach and tangerine citrus provide the 85 bration Viognier (Vin de Pays fruity core of this wine, with accents of sweet d’Oc); $12. This straightforward wine is tasty CORBIÈRES BLANC wood and popcorn adding depth. Medium weight and approachable, with flavors of red apple, hard with prominent acidity and an orange spice- peach and orange acidity. Round and satisfying in Château Ollieux Romanis 2008 driven finish, this is a nice choice for bone-in the mouth; drink up. Imported by Domaine 90 Cuvée Prestige (Corbières); $29. pork chops or stuffed chicken. Imported by Select Wine Estates. —L.B. Grape Expectations (CA). Best Buy. —L.B. This Corbiéres blanc is 50% Marsanne and 50% Domaines Paul Mas 2009 Roussanne, and it is a stunner. Aromas of toasty Gérard Bertrand 2009 Réserve Chardonnay (Vin de Pays d’Oc); red apple, soft bouquet garni and a hint of sweet 85 86 Spéciale Viognier (Vin de Pays $13. The bouquet is mildly intense, with soft spice draw you in immediately. The medium- d’Oc); $15. Ripe and rich without being over- pear and delicate apple skin as the only distin- weight mouth is fruity and spicy all at once, with done, this is a well-balanced Viognier with stone guishable elements. More apple and bitter citrus accents of butter and peach pit developing on the fruit and Anjou pear flavors lifted by accents of appear in the mouth, with almost a hoppy charac- close. Drink now through 2013. Imported by peony and orange rind. Vibrant acidity keeps ter developing on the finish. Drink now. Langdon Shiverick. —L.B. things lively in the mouth, with a refreshingly Imported by Wine Warehouse Imports. —L.B.

WineMag.com | 39 BUYING I GUIDE

Gilles Louvet 2010 O Made From lobster newburg. Imported by Metrowine Distri- Drink now. Imported by Miquel et Fils. Best 85 Organic Grapes Chardonnay (Pays bution. —L.B. Buy. —L.B. d’Oc); $18. This organic Chardonnay offers notes of soft pear, grass and citrus on the nose, Chateau de Lancyre 2009 Château Ollieux Romanis 2009 while sweet citrus oil dominates the medium- 86 Domaine de Lancyre Roussanne 84 Rosé (Corbières); $16. This is a full- weight mouth. A touch of melon rind unfolds on (Vin de Pays de Montferrand); $24. This bodied rosé with soft red berry and tart cherry the short finish. Easy to drink, and drink now. unoaked Roussanne is fresh and fragrant, with flavors intertwined with notes of white chocolate. Imported by Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —L.B. loads of white florals, tropical fruit, peach and a The finish could last a bit longer. Drink up. touch of baby powder. The mouth is ripe and Imported by Langdon Shiverick. —L.B. Domaines Paul Mas 2009 Sauvi- crisp with balanced acidity and a juicy lime- 84 gnon Blanc (Vin de Pays d’Oc); infused finish. Drink now. Imported by Hand Le Dog 2009 de Roselyne Rosé $13. It might be a tad too late to enjoy this typi- Picked Selections. —L.B. 84 (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $11. The aromas cally early-drinking wine, with the alcohol now and flavors of this wine are not too intense, with overpowering the green plum and pineapple core soft suggestions of strawberry hull and ripe fruit flavors. Hold out for the 2010. Imported by SPARKLING banana. Surprisingly weighty and round in the Wine Warehouse Imports. —L.B. mouth. Imported by World Premiere Wines Bourgeois Family NV Cuvée LLC. —L.B. La Noble 2009 Chardonnay (Vin 86 Stéphi Ebullience (Crémant de 84 de Pays d’Oc); $12. This medium- Limoux); $18. An everyday sparkler with a nice weight Chard shows some grass and green plum toasted nuttiness mingling with solid and persist- ITALY notes alongside riper accents of apple and honey- ent baked green apple and citrus pith flavors. The suckle. Might be past its prime; try the 2010. mouth is creamy with fine carbonation and PIEDMONT Imported by Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. medium acidity. Drink now. Imported by Bour- geois Family Selections. —L.B. LANGHE Tortoise Creek 2009 Cuvée Jeanne 84 Sauvignon Blanc (Pays d’Oc); $11. Château Rives-Blanques 2007 Vin- Gaja 2007 Sorì Tildìn A light but easy-drinking white with flavors of 86 tage Rosé Brut (Crémant de 99 (Langhe); $440. This is an elegant fresh gooseberry and grapefruit pith. Light - Limoux); $23. This vintage rosé, made with Nebbiolo-based wine and arguably the most fem- weight with a short but clean finish; pair with 57% Chardonnay, 28% Chenin Blanc, 10% inine of Gaja’s newest releases. There’s extreme summer salads. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Mauzac and 5% Pinot Noir, is a perfect match balance and sophistication evident in the focused —L.B. for tomato-cream sauce dishes or insalata Cap- aromas of wild berry, white licorice, pressed vio- rese. Delicate toast adds depth to the dainty lets and polished stone. The mouthfeel is tight, Tortoise Creek 2009 Le Verger strawberry and apple notes, with a touch of sweet firm and those tannins need at least 10 more 84 Viognier (Pays d’Oc); $11. Here’s a spice unfolding on the finish. Drink up. Imported years to soften in your cellar. Beautiful. Imported delicate white that’s a nice poolside sipper, with by Demontoux Fine Wines. —L.B. by Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selec- soft suggestions of white florals, tropical fruit and tion. —M.L. sweet citrus. The palate is clean and balanced Château Rives-Blanques 2008 Brut with pineapple-flavored acidity keeping things 86 (Blanquette de Limoux); $20. This Gaja 2007 Sorì San Lorenzo Neb- vibrant in the mouth. Imported by Winesellers Blanquette (made with 90% Mauzac) offers a 99 biolo (Langhe); $440. Always a stand- Ltd. —L.B. bouquet full of bright crisp red apple and melon out among Gaja’s five single-vineyard wines, Sorì core. The texture is creamy with fine bubbles and San Lorenzo benefits from an excellent vintage to medium acidity, and the palate is loaded with sat- produce what will surely become a must-have OTHER WHITE isfying sweet citrus rind and toasty brioche fla- bottle for collectors of . There’s enor- vors. Drink now. Imported by Demontoux Fine mous beauty and elegance here, backed by power VINS DE PAYS Wines. —L.B. and intensity with ripe fruit, spice, toasted nut and cola. It also shows impressive linearity and Château de la Selve 2008 focus. Hold for 10 years or more. Imported by 86 Madame de Viognier (Vin de Pays ROSÉ Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. des Coteaux de L’Ardeche); $40. Full-bod- —M.L. ied and round, this is a hefty Viognier that is aged Laurent Miquel 2010 Père et Fils an average of 12 months in barrel on the lees. 86 Cinsault-Syrah Rosé (Vin de Pays Gaja 2006 Sperss Nebbiolo Grilled peach, roasted nuts and buttercream d’Oc); $10. Fresh and lively with notes of red 98 (Langhe); $255. Sperss (the name is abound on the nose and mouth and remain cherry, strawberry and sweet citrus oil through- inspired by the local word for “nostalgia”) is a through the lengthy close. With its weight and out. There’s prickly acidity in the mouth that vineyard located in the Barolo territory of Ser- density, try with cream-based seafood entrées like lingers through the clean, mouthwatering finish. ralunga. Angelo Gaja adds 6% to the wine for brightness and freshness but the overall

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 ensemble shows so much more than that. It greenish notes of forest floor and bramble, fol- Principiano Ferdinando 2009 delivers sophisticated softness and a velvety tex- lowed by spice, cola and wild berry. There’s a 87 Laura (Barbera d’Alba); $NA. Laura ture that is backed by exotic spice and loads of sharp, rubbery note at the back and the wine is a plush and velvety Barbera d’Alba with bright wild berry and licorice. Add huge depth and closes with a focused, firm feel.—M.L. berry and cherry tones followed by crisp, bright intensity and you have the criteria for a cellar- acidity. Pair this wine with gnocchi and creamy worthy wine. Will be ready to drink after 2020. gorgonzola sauce. —M.L. Imported by Terlato Wines International. Cellar BARBERA D’ALBA Selection. —M.L. Bosio 2007 Egidio (Barbera D’ALBA Gaja 2006 Conteisa Nebbiolo 90 d’Alba); $NA. Egidio is an oak-aged (Langhe); $215. Conteisa is a Barolo- 97 Barbera d’Alba that opens with compelling aro- Azienda Agricola Cogno 2009 inspired wine from Angelo Gaja (with 8% Bar- mas of chocolate, black cherry, plum and black- bera) that opens with very attractive and 87 Vigna del Mandorlo (Dolcetto berry. The wine is smooth and soft in the mouth approachable aromas of red fruit, tobacco, d’Alba); $19. Vigna del Mandorlo Dolcetto with integrated acidity that is fresh without being leather, moist earth and black licorice. There’s a d’Alba opens with bright freshness and loads of sharp. —M.L. youthful element to the personality (that hints at cherry, blueberry, raspberry and toasted almond. a long aging future ahead) backed by silky, but Oddero 2007 Barbera d’Alba; $19. The wine shows freshness that is balanced by firm tannins and beautifully crisp acidity. The There’s a very beautiful quality to the smooth, velvety tannins. Imported by Vias wine will be at its best after 2018. Imported by 90 nose of this fresh Barbera d’Alba that opens with Imports. —M.L. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. bright aromas of blue flower, red cherry, almond skin and cola. In the mouth, the wine shows Bosio 2009 Dolcetto d’Alba; $NA. Gaja 2006 Costa Russi Nebbiolo bright acidity followed by a smooth, silky texture. 87 Slightly sweet and sharp notes of cherry, raspberry and blueberry open the 95 (Langhe); $420. Purchased by the Gaja Imported by Soilair Selection. —M.L. family in 1967, the Costa Russi vineyard produces nose of this fresh, clean Dolcetto d’Alba. Pair elegant expressions of Nebbiolo with beautifully Azienda Agricola Cogno 2008 this wine with pizza topped with spicy sausage saturated, sun-drenched flavors. Indeed, this vin- 88 Bricco dei Merli (Barbera d’Alba); and cheese. —M.L. tage shows wild berry with beautiful background $NA. This Barbera d’Alba opens with dark, sophis- renderings of smoke and graphite. Five percent ticated aromas of exotic spice, black fruit, toasted Principiano Ferdinando 2009 Barbera is added and the wine shows amazing nut, cherry, root beer and licorice. There’s a touch of 85 Sant’Anna (Dolcetto d’Alba); $NA. harmony and sophistication with bright acidity natural rubber at the back and the wine offers some This Dolcetto d’Alba opens with distinctive notes and firm tannins. It will only become more beau- sweet fruit flavors as well. —M.L. of chopped herb and dried grass backed by tiful in time. Imported by Terlato Wines Interna- crushed mineral and wild berries. It’s a thin, crisp tional. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Pelassa 2007 San Pancrazio (Bar- wine that would pair perfectly with crackers and bera d’Alba); $15. 88 Here’s a very rich cheese. —M.L. and intense expression of Barbera d’Alba with aro- mas of black fruit, toasted nut, vanilla bean, espresso and cherry cola. It’s a modern, smooth wine that Gaja 2007 Barbaresco; $210. This is MOSCATO D’ASTI would pair with lasagna or rolled pork with prune. the wine that made Angelo Gaja a house- 97 Imported by Slocum & Sons, Inc. —M.L. hold name worldwide. Made according to Bar- Coppo 2009 Moncalvina (Moscato d’Asti); $NA. Moncalvina is a soapy, baresco tradition, the wine reveals itself slowly at Fontanabianca 2007 Barbera 85 first and doles out small aromas of wild berry, creamy expression of Moscato d’Asti that delivers d’Alba; $19. This bright and polished licorice, root beer, smoke and graphite that 87 sweet pulses of stone fruit, honey, acacia, melon Barbera d’Alba would make a perfect compan- become magically more intense with time in the and pressed flowers. Pair it with fruit-based ion to tortellini with grated Parmigiano cheese glass. The acidity, tannic factor and overall desserts such as peach pudding, apple pie or cus- and melted butter. The wine boast bright berry sophistication show harmony and masterful bal- tard. —M.L. ance. Hold until 2018, at least. Imported by Ter- and cherry flavors backed by fresh acidity. Imported by Tellitalia Imports. —M.L. lato Wines International. Cellar Selection. Rizzi 2009 Moscato d’Asti; —M.L. Fontanabianca 2007 Brunet (Bar- 85 $NA. Rizzi’s fresh and floral Moscato 87 bera d’Alba); $26. This pretty vine- d’Asti opens with aromas of pressed flowers, NEBBIOLO D’ALBA yard-designate Barbera d’Alba delivers a fresh citrus, stone fruit, honey and scented candle. bouquet of floral, fruit and spice aromas. The The foamy bubbles feel great in the mouth Bosio 2007 Nebbiolo d’Alba; $NA. wine is tonic and firm with a bright, crisp close. and form a lasting impression of fullness and 85 This lean Nebbiolo d’Alba opens with Imported by Tellitalia Imports. —M.L. creaminess. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 41 BUYING I GUIDE

smooth close. Imported by Bacco Wine & unique Merlot with warm and complex charac- NE ITALY Spirit, LLC. —M.L. teristics of the territory that shaped it. The winegrowing area is influenced by Lake RED WINES Pizzolato 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- Garda and the Dolomites; Consequently, this 84 gnon (); $12. This organically wine shows pristine aromas of cherry, spice and CABERNET SAUVIGNON farmed Cabernet Sauvignon shows a thin, com- leather backed by a soft, silky texture. Imported pact ruby color and moderate aromas of cherry, by Winebow. —M.L. Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2004 Capitel rose and spice. The wine is clean and fresh, but 92 del Monte Cabernet Sauvignon it’s not particularly long lasting or rich. Imported Sansonina 2006 Merlot (Rosso (); $35. Capitel del Monte is a beautiful by Natural Merchants LLC. —M.L. 91 del Veronese); $40. Sansonina is a expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from north- beautiful wine with a distinct personality and east Italy that shows enormous density and purity. elegant tones of cherry, blackberry, spice and It’s a succulent, rich wine with black cherry, MERLOT leather integrated over a rich, plush mouth- exotic spice, leather and espresso bean. It imparts feel. It also shows a clean, linear approach dusty but firm tannins on the long finish. Alois Lageder 2004 MCM Merlot with a tight but long-lasting finish. Imported Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. (Alto Adige); $45. Ripe, pure and 93 by Winebow. —M.L. intense, this is a beautiful expression of Merlot Bertani 2004 Villa Novare Albion from mountainous northern Italy that offers very Tenuta Santa Maria alla Pieve Cabernet Sauvignon (Veneto); well-defined aromas of wild berries, red rose, 88 2004 Decima Aurea Merlot $50. Here’s a Cabernet Sauvignon from north- white cherry, cola and polished black mineral. In 91 ern Italy that shows some budding tertiary aro- the mouth, it is smooth and fine with a silky tan- (Veneto); $52. Decima Aurea is a refined mas of polished stone and black licorice now six nic fade. —M.L. and elegant expression of Merlot with deep years after the harvest. You’ll also get black fruit, and long aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry pie, tar and simple, polished tannins on the close. Andriano 2007 Gant Riserva Mer- Indian spice, clove and old spice. The wine Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. 93 lot (Alto Adige); $45. This Riserva shows the sophistication of age, but also prom- expression of Merlot from cool-climate Alto ises years of cellar aging. Imported by Palm Astoria 2007 Icóna Cabernet Adige delivers fantastic intensity and purity. The Bay International. —M.L. 87 Sauvignon (Piave); $12. Here’s a aromas of cherry, spice, leather and red rose are simple, straightforward Cabernet Sauvignon from chiseled and crisp. The wine is soft and velvety in Guerrieri Rizzardi 2007 Clos northern Italy with an attractively low price tag the mouth with a long parade of berry fruit fla- 90 Roareti Merlot (Rosso del and lively aromas of cherry, chocolate and spice. vors on the long finish. Serve this wine with Veronese); $NA. The first vintage of Clos It shows rich, dense texture as well. Imported by sophisticated meat dishes or cellar age five to ten Roareti was introduced in 2004 and cemented Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.L. more years. Imported by Banville & Jones Wine this producer’s reputation for excellent Merlot. Merchants. —M.L. This vintage shows intense aromas of cherry, Moletto 2008 Sauvignon (Veneto blackberry, spice and cinnamon backed by a vel- 87 Orientale); $16. Here’s a fruit-forward Josef Weger 2005 Maso delle vety, smooth texture. Imported by Enotec Rose Merlot (Alto Adige); $39. Sauvignon with bold aromas of ripe cherry, black- 91 Imports, Inc. —M.L. berry and moderate spice. Pair this wine with This is a beautifully fragrant Merlot from cool-cli- oven-cooked pasta or pizza with broccoli and mate northern Italy that shows pristine aromas Masottina 2004 Vigneto ai Palazzi sausage. Imported by Laird & Company. —M.L. of cherry, wild berry, red rose and Indian spice. Riserva Merlot (Piave); $35. This The wine is structured and smooth on the finish 90 bright Riserva Merlot offers chewy cherry flavors Torre di Luna 2007 Cabernet with soft, plush tannins. Imported by Magellan followed by elegant notes of spice, tar and cola. (Delle Venezie); $11. This is a sim- Wine Imports. —M.L. 85 The mouthfeel is rich and velvety. Pair this ruby- ple, streamlined red wine that opens with bright colored wine with duck confit seasoned with gin- aromas of cherry, blackberry and light shadings of La Vis 2007 Ritratti Merlot dark spice. It has a crisp, easy-going mouthfeel 91 (Trentino); $17. This is a very person- ger and orange. Imported by Pavi Micheli that would pair with appetizers or pizza. alized, very different Merlot that shows beautiful Lawson - Robert Lawson. —M.L. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. elegance and grace thanks to cool-climate grow- ing conditions and clay soils. The wine opens with Collalbrigo 2005 Il Merlot Mer- Cescon Italo Storia e Vini 2008 Il a dark, full color and offers pristine aromas of 88 lot (Veneto); $35. Rich and soft, 84 Tralcetto Cabernet (Piave); $12. cherry, pomegranate, leather and savory shades with a velvety smooth texture, this pretty Ital- Here’s a Cabernet-based wine from the Piave of spice. Imported by F&F Fine Wines Interna- ian Merlot would pair with chicken or pork area of northern Italy that opens with contrast- tional. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. roast with mashed potatoes. Cherry, spice and ing aromas of sour cherry against spicy smoked a touch of mocha coffee characterize the bou- ham. That sweet and sour juxtaposition con- Sansonina 2005 Merlot (Rosso del quet. Imported by Domaine Select Wine tinues to the mouth where the wine exhibits a 91 Veronese); $40. Sansonina offers this Estates. —M.L.

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Bollini 2008 Merlot (Trentino); berries, wet earth and spice. The wine’s appear- almond on the close and the wine end with fresh 87 $12. Bollini’s bright, cool-climate Merlot ance is thin and simple, and so is the mouthfeel. but simple fruit flavors. —M.L. opens with a rich, ruby color and fragrant aro- Imported by Natural Merchants LLC. —M.L. mas of cherry, blueberry and wild strawberry. The Castello di Luzzano 2008 Magót wine sees six months of light oak aging, adding Pizzolato 2009 Terra Summa Mer- 84 Pinot Nero (Oltrepò Pavese); $28. moderate spice and tobacco. The price is right 83 lot (Piave); $12. Made with organic Here’s a Frizzante (sparkling) wine unlike any- and the mouthfeel is tonic and tight. Imported by grapes, this easygoing Merlot is designed for thing you have ever tried. Pinot Nero is vini- Kobrand. Best Buy. —M.L. health-conscious vegans and vegetarians. The fied as a white wine with delicate floral aromas wine offers sharp berry and cherry flavors with a and citrus. It’s a light, bright wine with tonic Cescon Italo Storia e Vini 2007 Il thin, citrusy close. Imported by Natural Mer- bubbling and crisp freshness. Imported by 86 Tralcetto Merlot (Piave); $12. Fas- chants LLC. —M.L. Vias Imports. —M.L. tened with a tiny grapevine clipping on the neck of the bottle, this easygoing Merlot from north- Cescon Italo Storia e Vini 2008 Il ern Italy offers simple aromas of cherry, wild PINOT NOIR 84 Tralcetto Pinot Nero (Veneto); $12. berry and moderate spice. The wine would make The Il Tralcetto line (pretty bottles fastened with a great pairing partner to pasta with veal ragù. St. Pauls 2007 Luziafeld Exclu- a snippet of grapevine on the neck of the bottle) Imported by Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. —M.L. 90 siv Pinot Nero (Alto Adige); continues with this bright, ruby-colored Pinot $29. Also known locally as Blauburgunder, Nero. The wine opens with wild berry and forest Moletto 2007 Merlot (Piave); $16. this cool-climate Pinot Nero opens with crisp floor aromas and offers bright, easy freshness on 86 Here’s a fun and cheerful Merlot that and pure aromas of small forest berry, white the close. Imported by Bacco Wine & Spirit, should be consumed with informal meals at cherry and blue flowers. The aromas are gor- LLC. —M.L. home. The wine is not aged in oak and conse- geous and the mouthfeel is polished and quently, you taste fresh fruit notes of cherry and bright. Imported by Tesori Wines. —M.L. blueberry. It’s soft, easy and smooth on the close. RABOSO Imported by Laird & Company. —M.L. Josef Weger 2004 Maso delle 88 Rose Pinot Nero (Alto Adige); Tenuta Santomè 2004 Santomè Tommasi 2008 Le Prunée Merlot $43. This cool-climate, northern Italian 88 Raboso (Piave); $35. Santomè is a 86 (Delle Venezie); $16. Le Prunée is a expression of Pinot Nero opens with nice aro- pretty expression of Raboso (a native grape of simple expression of Merlot with layers of cherry, mas of blue flower, small berry and white northeast Italy) with mouth-coating tannins blackberry, spice, earth and old leather. You could chocolate. The wine is compact and short in and bright aromas of black cherry, old leather, easily pair this wine with roast chicken or pork the mouth with a fresh, crisp close. Imported spice and clove. That firm structure suggests a thanks to the smooth nature of the mouthfeel. by Magellan Wine Imports. —M.L. pairing with succulent red meat. Imported by Imported by Rolar. —M.L. VinUS Inc. —M.L. Ronco Calino NV Brut Rosé Radi- Astoria 2007 Il Puro Merlot 88 jan Pinot Nero (); $34. Tenuta Santomè 2005 Santomè 85 (Veneto); $12. Il Puro is a simple but Here’s a delicately pink sparkling rosé that offers 88 Raboso (Piave); $35. Raboso San- genuine expression of Merlot with soft cherry clean aromas of cut rose, cranberry, peach, honey tomè shows firm tannins and dense structure nuances backed by light shadings of spice and and roasted almond. It shows nice brightness and with bright berry and cherry flavors. There are mineral. The texture is smooth and silky, and crispness on the close that would pair with background aromas here of spice and smoke and although this is a very simple wine, it does deliver shrimp cocktail with creamy sauce or crab cakes. the wine would definitely pair with red meet or easy drinking pleasure. Imported by Prestige Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. aged cheese. Imported by VinUS Inc. —M.L. Wine Group. —M.L. Natale Verga 2008 Nuarè Pinot Tenuta Santomè 2003 Santomè Cescon Italo Storia e Vini 2008 87 Noir (Delle Venezie); $13. Nuarè is a 87 Raboso (Piave); $35. This wine shows 85 Il Tralcetto Merlot (Piave); $12. bright and cheerful Pinot Noir with fruit sourced firm tannins and rich opulence although the The Il Tralcetto line of wines is packaged with from northern Italy that shows pretty nuances of nose presents some chewy, or raw aromas a real grape vine clipping looped over the neck forest berry and blue flower. The mouthfeel is behind its nose of ripe fruit and spice. That of the bottle. Inside is a fresh and easy expres- lean and compact but the low price is one of this extra succulence and softness is probably due sion of Merlot that is redolent of cherry, rasp- wine’s biggest selling points. Imported by Jandell to the extreme heat of the 2003 vintage. berry and spice. Imported by Bacco Wine & Selections. —M.L. Imported by VinUS Inc. —M.L. Spirit, LLC. —M.L. Cielo e Terra 2009 Famiglia Cielo Cescon Italo Storia e Vini 2005 Pizzolato 2009 Merlot (Piave); 85 Pinot Noir (Delle Venezie); $NA. 86 Rabià Raboso (Piave); $35. A pure 83 $12. Made with organically grown Here’s a bright, ruby-colored Pinot Noir that expression of the Raboso grape (a native variety grapes, Pizzolato’s ruby-colored Merlot starts off opens with vibrant aromas of wild berry, rasp- of northern Italy), Rabià is a dark wine with easily enough with focused aromas of wild berry and blue flower. There’s a hint of white meaty, thick aromas of mature blackberry and

WineMag.com | 43 BUYING I GUIDE sour cherry. The wine delivers soft tannins, good fruit, exotic spice, leather, tar and moist pipe Ronca 2008 Veronese; $20. Perfect density and a touch of bitter fruit on the close. tobacco. It’s soft and chewy with long, impressive 86 for appetizers or bite-sized , this Imported by Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. —M.L. persistency. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. bright expression of (one of the native grapes used in the production of ) shows Cescon Italo Storia e Vini 2005 Il Zenato 2005 Cresasso (Veronese); loads of berry and wild berry aromas. Imported 84 Tralcetto Raboso (Piave); $12. 91 $60. Cresasso is a leading protagonist by Vias Imports. —M.L. Raboso is a native grape of northern Italy that among a new generation of 100% expressions of offers crisp, almost sour, notes of white cherry, the Corvina grape (one of the most important Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2008 Scaia bitter cranberry and white almond. It also deliv- blending elements in Amarone) from northern 86 Rosso (Del Veneto); $11. This pure ers natural freshness and this quality helps it pair Italy. This beautiful wine shows bold intensity, expression of the native Corvina grape opens with with fatty foods with cheese or butter. Imported extraction and soft aromas of mature fruit and a thin ruby appearance and spicy aromas of wild by Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. —M.L. oak spice. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. berry and crushed black pepper. The wine is packaged with a glass cork that underscores its Cesari 2005 Jèma (Veronese); $49. identity as an informal, food-friendly Italian red. Jèma (a 100% expression of Corvina, one 90 Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Best of the main grapes used in Amarone) is a new Buy. —M.L. Bosco del Merlo 2005 Roggio dei wine from the folks at Cesari that offers oak- 86 Roveri Riserva Refosco (Lison-Pra- driven notes of spice and sweet tobacco backed maggiore); $NA. This bright Refosco Riserva by blackberry, cassis and plum. In the mouth, the offers bitter notes of white cherry and cranberry wine shows an elegant, almost delicate side. RED BLENDS followed by light spice and toasted nut. It’s a Imported by Opici Wines. —M.L. lively, fresh red wine with a citrusy, crisp close. Allegrini 2007 La Grola Pair it with chicken in creamy mushroom sauce Brunelli 2008 Corte Cariano 91 (Veronese); $28. This vintage of La and wild rice. —M.L. 88 (Veneto); $25. Corte Cariano is a Grola opens with impressive intensity and rich- Corvina-based wine that undergoes a brief dry- ness of texture that spreads generously over the Zimòr 2007 Refosco (Delle ing, or appassimento, for extra concentration and palate. This food-friendly Italian red makes a last- 85 Venezie); $NA. Refosco is a ruby-col- intensity. As a result of this traditional winemak- ing impression thanks to its beautiful aromas of ored indigenous grape from northern Italy that ing technique, the wine is redolent of cassis, black fruit, spice, toasted nut, cola and tobacco. offers bright berry aromas followed by light spice blackberry syrup and exotic spice. Imported by Imported by Winebow. —M.L. and earthy shadings. The wine is thin and crisp ID Beverage Group. —M.L. with an easy, watery finish. —M.L. Allegrini 2006 La Grola Luciana Cordioli 2008 Corvino Vig- 90 (Veronese); $28. La Grola is an opu- La di Motte 2007 Refosco 87 nenuove (Veneto); $20. Corvino (a lent and luscious blended wine from Verona and 84 (Veneto); $14. This Refosco (a native 100% expression of the native Corvina grape from this particular expression offers extra aromas of grape of northeast Italy) opens with plush, ripe the Verona area) shows light touches of spice and cured beef, leather and earth over a generous fruit flavors and then follows with bitter acidity raw berry fruit that form an informal but inviting base of black fruit and spice. It shows soft, fine that comes as quite a surprise. Pair this wine with whole. The wine is compact, clean and fresh on the tannins that would pair with smoked ham. butter- or cheese-based dishes that will help finish. Imported by VinUS Inc. —M.L. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. diminish that sharp acidic bite. Imported by Saranty Imports. —M.L. Sartori 2006 Regolo (Rosso del Bonazzi Dario e Fabio 2005 San Veronese); $21. 87 This pure expression Nicola (Rosso del Veronese); $NA. of Corvina (one of the main grapes used in 89 There’s a touch of juicy sweetness here that CORVINA Amarone) opens with a pretty ruby color and recalls ripe blackberry or strawberry tart. You’ll bright aromas of forest berry, blueberry and also recognize tones of spice, leather and tobacco Allegrini 2004 La Poja (Veronese); white almond. It boasts an easy, fresh mouthfeel that make for balanced background flavors. — 93 $90. This is a gorgeous wine with loads that would work with pork or smoked ham. of intensity and personality derived from the Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. M.L. native Corvina grape of , Italy. It’s amazingly rich and smooth with long-lasting fla- Sartori 2005 Regolo (Rosso del Bonazzi Dario e Fabio 2001 El vors of maraschino cherry, Indian spice and cola. 87 Veronese); $21. Regolo is a pure 89 Dario (Rosso del Veronese); $NA. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. expression of Corvina, a grape native to northern Tasted now, almost one decade after the harvest, Italy, that opens with bright aromas of white this red blend from northern Italy is character- Allegrini 2006 La Poja (Veronese); cherry and cranberry, followed by a crisp mouth- ized by aromas of dried cassis, sweet cherry, 92 $85. Here’s a modern rendition of Corv- feel and medium build. There’s a subtle touch of cured beef, crushed stone and dark spice. There’s ina (one of the grapes that makes up Italy’s sour berry on the close. Imported by Banfi Vint- a warm, earthy quality that is backed by fine- Amarone) that opens with a blast of blackberry ners. —M.L. grain tannins. —M.L.

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Cecilia Beretta 2006 Picàie Fabiano 2006 Vajo (Veronese); $NA. Native Corvina and grapes are 89 (Veronese); $NA. Here’s a ripe, sticky 88 $80. Here’s a ripe and very succulent air-dried (the so-called passimento process) to and succulent blend of Corvina, Cabernet Sauvi- blend of Corvina, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvi- create a distinctly concentrated and powerful red gnon and Merlot that opens with bursting aro- gnon that shows bright aromas of black cherry, wine from the Verona area of northern Italy. The mas of candied fruit, black cherry, blackberry tobacco, cured beef and leather. The wine holds wine shows smooth, soft tannins and round fruit jam, Indian spice and raw tobacco. The wine its own on the palate thanks to its thick, rich tex- flavors. —M.L. won’t appeal to everyone and should definitely ture. Imported by Admiral Imports. —M.L. be paired with hearty stew or game meat. Stefano Accordini 2007 Passo Imported by Casa Bruno. —M.L. L’Arco 2004 Pario (Veronese); $54. 88 (Rosso del Veronese); $35. Made 88 This rich and succulent red blend from with slightly air-dried grapes, this Italian blend Montezovo 2005 Ca’ Linverno the Verona area of northern Italy opens with of Covina, , Cabernet and Merlot is a 89 (Rosso del Veronese); $NA. This red sweet aromas of cinnamon, red apple, nutmeg modern interpretation of Veneto tradition. This is blended wine from northern Italy is packed tight and ginger. The wine shows substance and stay- a bold, meaty, soft and concentrated wine that with aromas of ripe red cherry and oak. In fact, ing power and those sweet fruit flavors linger offers confident aromas of oak spice, mature fruit the wood element imparts a complex bouquet long on the fade. Imported by Terra Verus Trad- and chewy black cherry. Imported by Omniwines with vanilla, spice, cedar and smoke components. ing Co. LP. —M.L. Distribution. —M.L. The wine is rich and very velvety on the close. Imported by Eurobiz Inc. —M.L. L’Arco 2003 Rùbeo (Veronese); Stefano Accordini 2008 Passo 88 $55. The Rùbeo red blend from Verona 88 (Rosso del Veronese); $35. Almost Albino Armani 2005 Foja Tonda opens with sweet and jammy aromas of raspberry, too much of a good thing, Passo is a thick, jammy 88 Casetta (Trentino); $NA. Foja Tonda, strawberry and blueberry jam. There’s spice, and modern blend of traditional Italian grapes also known as “Casetta,” is an extremely rare smoke and cola in the background and the wine and international varieties such as Cabernet grape variety found in the Trentino area of north- is soft and smooth on the close. Imported by Sauvignon and Merlot. This is a bold, big wine ern Italy that shows ripe fruit and plum aromas Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. with a thick, chewy mouthfeel that should be with soft, mellow tannins. It provides enough paired with aged cheese or succulent meat. density and concentration to pair with winter Masi 2006 Campofiorin (Rosso del Imported by Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. meat dishes. Imported by Underdog Wine Mer- 88 Veronese); $19. Although it is not chants. —M.L. labeled “Ripasso,” Campofiorin is indeed Zenato 2006 Cormì (Veneto); $21. among the very first commercial wines made 88 Cormì is a 50-50 blend of Corvina and Aldegheri 2006 Sengia Rossa in the Ripasso style (with partially air-dried Merlot that shows soft, jammy fruit aromas of 88 (Rosso del Veronese); $20. Sengia grapes). The beautiful results show intensity, blackberry and plum backed by chocolate and Rossa is a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Merlot elegance and although the mid palate is com- tobacco. The wine is rich and dense with firm, and other varieties that shows plush, rich concen- pact and short, the wine does offer a full array smooth tannins. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. tration and a soft, velvety feel. Aromas here of spicy and dark fruit aromas. Imported by include black cherry, cassis, leather, tobacco and a Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. Antolini 2006 Theo Broma touch of licorice. Imported by Testa Wines Of 87 (Veronese); $NA. From the Greeks The World. —M.L. Nicolis 2005 Testal (Rosso del words Theo for “Godly” and Broma for “bever- 88 Veronese); $22. This succulent blend age” comes this hearty blend of Cabernet Allegrini 2007 Palazzo della Torre of Covina (94%) with tiny percentages of Caber- Sauvignon and traditional grapes from the 88 (Veronese); $20. A blend of grapes net Sauvignon and Merlot delivers bold intensity Verona area. The wine is high in alcohol and including traditional Corvina and Rondinella and rich aromas of black fruit such as cherry, you feel it: Leather, spice and tobacco are fol- undergoes air-drying for extra-rich concentration plum and prune. It shows medium intensity in lowed by cherry liqueur. Imported by Terra and intensity. That, with careful oak aging, has the mouth with a clean, fruit-driven fade. Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. shaped a richly textured, dense wine that would Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. pair with game meat or bean soup with smoked Astoria 2005 Croder Rosso (Colli bacon. It shows raw, slightly chewy tannins on Pasqua 2006 Le Soraie (Rosso del 87 di ); $20. Thanks to long the close. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. 88 Veronese); $20. Made with air dried oak aging, this hearty blend is packed tight with grapes, this fruity blend of Merlot, Cabernet aromas of chocolate, ripe cherry, leather and Costaripa 2007 Campostarne Sauvignon and Corvina (a native grape of tobacco. It’s rich and thick in the mouth with a 88 (Garda Classico); $23. From vine- Veneto, northern Italy) opens with raw notes touch of bitter fruit on the bright close. Imported yards near Lake Garda in northern Italy, this of cherry, blackberry and exotic spice. It’s by Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. oak-aged red wine delivers sweet spice, smooth and rich with a powerful blast of vanilla, nutmeg and bright cherry aromas. cherry on the close. —M.L. Bonazzi 2007 I Camponi There’s a slight tannic bite on the close as well 87 (Veronese); $NA. This blend of Corv- as nicely integrated acidity. Imported by Emp- Pasqua 2007 Villa Borghetti ina, Rondinella and —three native son (USA) Ltd. —M.L. 88 Metodo Passimento (Veneto); grapes of the Verona area—offers pungent aro-

WineMag.com | 45 BUYING I GUIDE mas of sweet spice, jammy fruit and natural rub- a touch of sweet vanilla. Imported by Testa L’Arco 2004 Rosso del Veronese; ber. There’s a thick, chewy quality to the wine Wines Of The World. —M.L. 83 $20. Here’s a thin, watery wine that with soft, polished tannins. —M.L. offers aged aromas of ripe fruit, dusty mineral, Astoria 2007 Clamore Rosso Nudo root beer and Teriyaki sauce. There’s a touch of Bonotto delle Tezze 2007 Bara- 86 (Veneto); $12. This is an easy, fragrant smoked ham or white mushroom on the close. 87 bane (Piave); $16. This well-priced blend that offers simple aromas of cherry, wild Imported by Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. red blend (with a large Cabernet component) berry and white almond. The wine is thin, but shows dark density and sweet aromas of mature crisp with a bright berry finish. Imported by Pres- Pizzolato 2009 Terra Summa cherry, chocolate and spice. It shows soft, mellow tige Wine Group. —M.L. 82 (Piave); $12. This no-fuss 50-50 blend tannins with a touch of smoked bacon on the of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (made with close. Imported by Specialty Marketing. —M.L. Emilio Bulfon 2009 Piculìt Neri organically farmed grapes) opens with wild berry 86 (Delle Venezie); $NA. Here’s a plump and white almond aromas. The wine is thin and Collalbrigo 2005 Marca Trevi- and bright red wine from northern Italy that watery on the close. Imported by Natural Mer- 87 giana; $20. This oak-aged blend of opens with warm notes of moist earth and bright chants LLC. —M.L. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and red cherry. There’s a subtle point of sourness on opens with sweet aromas of ripe fruit and the close followed by crispness and medium per- Christmas spice backed by leather, pipe sistency. —M.L. OTHER RED WINES tobacco and honey-glazed almond. The wine shows crisp freshness and citrus accents on the Giuseppe Lonardi 2006 Privilegia Costaripa 2008 Castelline close. Imported by Domaine Select Wine 86 (Veronese); $20. You can see the 87 (Garda Classico); $23. There’s a Estates. —M.L. direction Giuseppe Lonardi wanted to take lot of excitement surrounding the little-know this 50-50 blend of air-dried Corvina grapes Groppello grape that is a native of northern Montelvini 2002 El Zuiter (Delle and Cabernet Franc: The goal was to make a Italy. The variety delivers freshness and fruity 87 Venezie); $22. Here’s a toasty, rich bold, modern, super-. Instead, intensity: This expression is extremely clean, blend of various grapes including Merlot, the fruit is a tad too ripe and jammy to be bal- polished and food-friendly. Imported by Emp- Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Nero and Refosco anced and the wine tastes thick, chewy and son (USA) Ltd. —M.L. that shows well evolved aromas of spice, dusty slightly tannic on the close. Imported by Small mineral, candied fruit, plum and prune. It Vineyards LLC. —M.L. San Giorgio di Perdomini 2005 shows firm, smooth texture and would pair 87 Becco Giallo (Oltrepò Pavese); with meatloaf or roast beef. Imported by Tommasi 2009 Romeo (Delle $19. From the region of Lombardy, this oak- Wineworth LLC. —M.L. 86 Venezie); $10. This easygoing blend of aged Barbera (the wine sees 10 months of bar- Merlot and other grapes that are native to Verona rique) offers bright notes of blueberry, cherry and Paladin 2005 2T (Lison-Pramag- delivers bright cherry flavors with blueberry and spice. Becco Giallo means “yellow bird’s beak” in 87 giore); $NA. Paladin’s 2T (a blend of white almond. The wine is aged in stainless steel Italian. Imported by Winemonger. —M.L. Merlot and Refosco) offers bright tones of wild in order to maintain its aromatic freshness, berry and white cherry backed by bitter acidity although it really does have enough heft and Costaripa 2008 Mazane (Garda); and polished tannins. It’s an informal, clean wine determination to pair with light meat dishes. 86 $17. Made with the little-known that pair with spicy all’amatriciana (with Imported by Rolar. Best Buy. —M.L. Marzemino grape, this medium-bodied wine smoked bacon and tomato). —M.L. delivers fresh acidity and lively aromas of wild Pizzolato 2009 Rosso Convento berries, raspberry, cherry and white almond. The Tommasi 2008 Arele (Veronese); 85 (Piave); $12. Rosso Convento is a 50- wine would pair nicely with vegetable . 87 $19. Cola, root beer and balsam notes of 50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet made from Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. eucalyptus and dried mint open the nose of this organically grown fruit in northern Italy. This is a ruby blend of Corvina (90%) and Oseleta grapes. simple but genuine wine that would pair with Bonotto delle Tezze 2008 The wine is made in the appassimento style, in easy pasta dishes or take-home pizza. The mouth- 84 Cabernet Franc (Veneto); $NA. which fruit is air-dried for extra intensity and feel is firm, tight and streamlined. Imported by Here’s a grassy, green expression of Cabernet density. This expression also adds tones of natural Natural Merchants LLC. —M.L. Franc from northern Italy with aromas of rubber and hummus. Imported by Rolar. —M.L. black fruit, caper and green olive. It shows a Luigi Righetti 2008 Valsaia compact finish with medium body. Imported Aldegheri 2007 Il Groto (Rosso del 84 (Veneto); $25. This is an awkward, by Myssura Trading. —M.L. 86 Veronese); $14. Il Groto is an easy slightly unbalanced wine from northern Italy. It blend of red grapes that are native to the opens with intense notes of mature blackberry Verona area in northern Italy. This is the kind and oaky spice but follows through on the palate of wine you’ll want to pair with informal, with sharp, steely acidity. Imported by Prestige home-cooked meat dishes like stew or roast Wine Imports Corp. —M.L. beef. Aromas here include cherry, almond and

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 and velvety feel. Imported by Empson (USA) NE ITALY OTHER WHITE WINES Ltd. —M.L. WHITE WINES Russiz Superiore 2006 Riserva Bellavista 2005 Gran Cuvée Brut 91 Pinot Bianco (Collio); $36. Here’s a 91 (Franciacorta); $69. This Brut CHARDONNAY beautiful Riserva Pinot Bianco that delivers sparkler sees Chardonnay and Pinot Nero intense aromas of stone fruit, honey, melon blended together to produce a fragrant and Alois Lageder 2007 Löwengang and toasted almond. The wine rests on the lees creamy whole. Aromas here include stone fruit, 92 Chardonnay (Alto Adige); $45. for eight months for extra heft and density on mineral and sourdough bread. It feel silky, rich Smooth, rich and beautifully textured, this its naturally rich texture. Pair it with shellfish and offers sharp, tonic perlage that keeps the opulent Chardonnay from cool-climate Alto or white meat. Imported by Dalla Terra Win- palate refreshed. Imported by Empson (USA) Adige offers plush aromas of yellow fruit, rose, ery Direct. —M.L. Ltd. —M.L. vanilla and toasted almond. You could pair Löwengang with shellfish or creamy risotto Marco Felluga 2009 Friulano Bellavista 2005 Gran Cuvée Rosé with wild mushrooms. Imported by Dalla Terra 89 (Collio); $18. Here’s an excellent 91 (Franciacorta); $78. This feminine, Winery Direct. —M.L. quality Italian white (made from the native delicate rosé sparkling wine from northern Italy Friulano grape) available at a very reasonable opens with a beautiful peachy-pink color and Rizzi 2009 Chardonnay (Langhe); low price. The wine delivers structure and lively aromas of stone fruit, cranberry, pink rose, 87 $18. This is a very generous and creamy stamina and the aromas include peach, apri- dried grass and crushed mineral. Pair this wine Chardonnay from Piedmont that opens with rich cot and almond. You could pair it with any- with caviar or smoked salmon. Imported by tones of yellow fruit and rose, chalky mineral and thing, from sushi to white meat. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. playful notes of almond paste. The wine is full Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. and smooth in the mouth, making it a perfect Contadi Castaldi 2006 Brut Satèn companion to spicy Indian food. Imported by Emilio Bulfon 2009 Ucelùt 90 (Franciacorta); $35. Made with Opici Wines. —M.L. 88 (Venezia Giulia); $NA/500 ml. This Chardonnay grapes, this is a smooth and creamy bright from northeast Italy offers a Satèn sparkling wine that offers aromas of stone Torre di Luna 2009 Chardonnay luminous golden color and opens with sweet aro- fruit, almond and baked bread. In the mouth, it 85 (Delle Venezie); $11. Here’s a very mas of dried apricot, honey and almond marzi- delivers crispness, structure and persistency. cheerful and informal Italian Chardonnay that pan. The wine would pair with pâtè or aged Imported by Terra Moretti Trading. —M.L. drinks as easily and as pleasantly as a crisp Pinot cheeses.—M.L. Grigio. The wine opens with a luminous, trans- Quadra 2006 Brut Quvée 21 (Fran- parent color and bright aromas of citrus and cut 90 ciacorta); $37. Quvée 21 proves to be grass. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. ITALY a tonic and bright sparkling wine (made with Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Nero grapes) with SPARKLING sophisticated aromas of toasted almond, stone fruit, white chocolate and a touch of cinnamon FRANCIACORTA spice. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Allegrini 2009 Garganega Estates. —M.L. 87 (); $13. If you’re on the look- Bellavista 2004 Gran Cuvée Pas out for a clean, crisp and tasty white wine to 92 Opere (Franciacorta); $80. There’s a Barone Pizzini NV Brut Nature pair with vegetarian dishes, appetizers or warm, yeasty quality to this bright sparkling blend 88 (Franciacorta); $38. Barone Pizzini’s seafood, this luminous Soave is for you. In (with Chardonnay and Pinot Nero) from north- Brut Nature rests on the lees for two long fact, you really can’t go wrong here. It’s fresh ern Italy. It is redolent of apricot, toasted almond, years to shape a creamy, rich and toasted and easy with a playful touch of honey almond freshly baked bread and dried roses. In the sparkling wine with pretty aromas of baked on the close. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. mouth, it shows a drying feel and piquant, fresh bread, stone fruit and roasted almond. bubbling. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. — Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. Sandro de Bruno 2007 Can- M.L. 87 grande Garganega (Soave Ronco Calino NV Brut (Francia- Superiore); $NA. This creamy Soave Supe- Bellavista NV Gran Cuvée Satén 88 corta); $30. Here’s a pungent and riore opens with a playful note of vanilla and 92 Brut (Franciacorta); $77. A pure intense Italian sparkler (made with Chardon- mature peach backed by drying mineral and expression of Chardonnay, this luminous nay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero) that opens white almond. Fresh acidity is enhanced by sparkling wine offers a generous nose with warm- with bright aromas of apricot, mature melon, the wine’s naturally rich density. Imported by ing tones of yellow rose, apricot, almond paste, white almond and yellow rose. The wine is Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. baked bread and vanilla cream. The wine spreads smooth and silky, and there’s a ripe, warm smoothly over the palate with a remarkably soft quality to the fruit flavors. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 47 BUYING I GUIDE

Cà del Vént 2004 Sospiri Brut A little stewy and herbal, but still a good Ribera 86 Millesimato (Franciacorta); $40. SPAIN wine. Imported by Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. This Chardonnay-based Brut sparkler opens with Atalayas de Golban 2005 Torre de a bright golden yellow color and oxidized aromas RED WINES 86 Golbán Reserva (Ribera del of butterscotch, caramel and mature melon or JUMILLA Duero); $20. Smells like a kirsch liqueur on the peach. There is a sophisticated side here with bouquet. The palate, somewhat surprisingly, is loads of fragrant intensity, but in all, this is a big, Bodegas Luzon 2007 Portú much sharper than the nose, with tangy, zesty fla- full sparkling wine that would be hard to pair 92 (Jumilla); $69. Ripe and meaty, with vors of red fruits that some might adore and oth- with delicate foods. Imported by Ribevi Wine bacon, earth, leather and inviting black fruit aro- ers will label too thin and sour. Sheer but fresh on mas. Not lazy at all; in fact a laser-like beam of the finish, with pulsing acidity. Personally, I find Int. —M.L. acidity cuts through the palate, pushing bright, this rather sharp and wanting, given the origin. slightly fierce flavors of savory berry and minty Imported by Aviva Vino. —M.S. oak. Finishes hot, spicy and with coffee and PROSECCO mocha. Cabernet-Monastrell to drink now Bodega San Pedro Regalado 2008 through 2014. Imported by Aviva Vino. —M.S. 85 Embocadero (); Andreola 2009 26esimo I Brut $18. Broad, dark and meaty, with aromas of 88 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- El Nido 2007 Red Wine (Jumilla); leather and beef broth. The palate comes on as ecco Superiore); $32. This Brut Prosecco 92 $140. This Cabernet-Monastrell blend bulky and tannic, but the flavors are full and deep opens with dry, almost dusty aromas of talc pow- tips the scales at 15.5% and asks you straight out: even if they are also a touch soupy and meaty. how big do you like your red wines? It is smoky, Good for a 2008 midlevel RDD, but nothing to der and crushed mineral followed by white sultry and massive, with spicy boysenberry aro- get excited over. Imported by Frontier Wine flower and stone fruit. That dryness continues to mas, a deep, syrupy palate and plodding flavors of Imports. —M.S. the mouth and thanks to this unique quality, you molasses, roasted berry, cedar plank and herbs. could imagine a pairing with salty appetizers. Bullish but drinkble now and over the next few Bodega San Pedro Regalado 2008 Imported by Imports. —M.L. years; probably not one for the cellar. Imported 84 Canta Perdices (Ribera del Duero); by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. $18. Powerful but not real precise, especially as Andreola 2009 Vigneto Dirupo the earthy, tight nose unveils itself. The mouth- El Nido 2007 Clio (Jumilla); $45. feel is tight, narrow and tannic, yet the flavors 87 Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Black fruits, brightness and a friendly are big and meaty, and also sort of generic in Prosecco Superiore); $27. 91 Small percentages sweetness are the aromatic greeting. The palate is terms of berry flavors. Medium-length and rough of other white grapes are added to this Brut Pros- intense and thick, with creamy, medicinal berry on the finish, with lasting acidic bite. Imported by ecco for extra depth and personality. The wine and molten plum flavors. A little aggressive and Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. showcases aromas of stone fruit, white flower and minty, but likable and ready to roll. 70% Monas- Convento San Francisco 2005 Cri- loads of crushed mineral. It is lively and smooth trell with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. anza (Ribera del Duero); $32. Kind with piquant bubbling on the close. Imported by 84 of a downer given past performances of this label Vitis Imports. —M.L. and the high quality of the ’05 harvest. Seems overly RIBERA DEL DUERO roasted and earthy, with rubbery, drawn aromas that Santa Margherita NV Brut don’t seem fully fresh. The palate is heavy, with 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- Valduero 2005 Reserva (Ribera del cooked, leathery flavors of berry and fig. Finishes in ecco Superiore); $19. This luminous Prosecco 90 Duero); $40. Jammy and rich, and similar fashion, with dull bitter flavors and leather. from Santa Margerita (of Pinot Grigio fame) offers amid the folds there are aromas of roasted plum, Imported by Winebow. —M.S. cassis and mineral. The wine has good weight and bright aromas of stone fruit, citrus, melon and field structure, with sweet, tasty flavors of cassis and Finca La María 2005 Barrica (Rib- flowers. The wine is creamy smooth in the mouth black cherry. Finishes sweet and maybe a tiny bit 83 era del Duero); $19. Funky and thanks to the foamy quality of its bubbles. Imported baked, but overall this is Ribera as it should be. smelling of pine and tarragon. That aromatic by Terlato Wines International. —M.L. Drink now. Imported by Baron Francois Ltd. — sharpness carries straight to the palate, where the M.S. feel is narrow and the flavors are short and tangy, Casa Girelli NV Prosecco; $13. Clean with little to no big-time berry fruit. Simply an Recoletas 2005 Crianza (Ribera del 85 and fresh, this tonic and sharp Prosecco acceptable underperformer that’s tough and Duero); $30. Slightly cooked-smelling sharp. Imported by Table 31 Imports. —M.S. would pair with fried olives stuffed with minced 87 on first take, with hints of stem and rubber. It meat. The wine is luminous and light with loads of improves over time, showing earthy berry fruits Milcampos 2008 Viñas Viejas (Rib- citrus and stone fruit on the close. Imported by F&F and leather. The palate is pretty good and lively, 83 era del Duero); $18. Smells earthy, Fine Wines International. —M.L. with earthy, herbal flavors of berry, tea and spice. murky and a little raisiny, and then in the mouth

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 it scratches with grating tannins in support of flo- Mazuelo. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners. blackberry and plum fruit, and then a long, ral cherry and tart red fruit flavors. Finishes sort —M.S. robust and clean finish. As value-priced Garnacha of hollow and sour; standard issue at best. from Spain goes, this is on the dot. Imported by Imported by Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. Sierra Cantabria 2007 Crianza Frontier Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. 88 (Rioja); $19. Cherry and raspberry aro- mas are a little scratchy, with accents of toast, Castillo de Monséran 2009 Silver RIOJA leather and roasted meat. The palate, on the 87 Label Garnacha (Cariñena); $12. other hand, is more lean, driving and citric than Just makes it to that next level of quality via El Coto 2001 Coto de Imaz Gran in riper years; it’s crisp and fresh, with red plum, bright, jumpy, fresh aromas and flavors of 92 Reserva (Rioja); $45. Toasty and ele- pie cherry and toasty oak flavors. Clean, lean and raspberry and cherry. It’s a simple varietal gant from the beginning. The nose breathes ready to drink. Imported by Fine Estates From Grenache that’s bright and easy to like if Christmas spice and mature berry fruits, while Spain. —M.S. you’re into zesty raspberry and berry flavors the palate deals a persistent structure and acidity uplifted by spunky acidity. Best with a little for added spine. Tastes a little rooty and savory, Bodegas Muriel 2007 JME (Rioja); chill on the temperature. Imported by T.G.I.C. with root beer and chocolate notes to the finish. 87 $25. Spicy and jumpy on the nose, with Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. Drink now or hold thru 2016. Imported by Fred- pine and juniper notes coming alongside more erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. normal berry and cherry scents. The palate has a Castillo de Monséran 2007 Old severe snappy, citrusy, narrow feel and flavors of Vine Garnacha (Cariñena); $18. Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2001 87 cherry, red plum and cherry tomato. Lightly More traditional and Old World in style, with Rioja Bordón Gran Reserva (Rioja); 91 herbal and oaky on the finish, with good length. some light oak supporting aromas of rubber, $29. A surprise and a true find in that this wine Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.S. smoked meats, leather and berry fruit. There’s is excellent but priced well below its quality level. good life to the bouncy palate along with fla- The nose is outright gorgeous; it’s subtle, spicy, El Coto 2007 Crianza (Rioja); $12. vors of zesty plum and cherry. Snappy and layered with dried fruit and folds in hints of The first act of dried spices and light, 86 crisp on the finish. Imported by T.G.I.C. tomato leaf and dill. The palate is expressive, del- dusty red fruit aromas is honest and subdued. Importers. —M.S. icate and offers smooth, leathery flavors. In a per- The palate brings good weight and lightly leafy, fect state of evolution; drink now through 2013. tomatoey accents to red cherry and raspberry fla- Lelia 2009 Garnacha (Cariñena); Imported by Admiral Imports. —M.S. vors. Light, dry and a little stemmy on the finish. $10. Full, sweet, a touch reduced and Standard but hinting at elegant. Imported by 87 granular on the nose, but exemplary of what Marqués de Vitoria 1998 Gran Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. affordable Garnacha from a good vintage should Reserva (Rioja); $33. Rusty in color 90 be like. The palate is stacked and deep, while the and mature on the nose, with classic aromas of Torres 2007 Coronas (Rioja); $13. flavors are a mix of wild berry, rubber, toast and tobacco, cedar, spiced raisin and delicate red Rubbery but fresh smelling, with sharp 84 espresso. Turns a bit hot on the finish, but food berries. At its peak, with mouthcoating, rendered acidity that creates big-time juiciness but also an will tame that. Drink now. Imported by Frontier tannins and a core of berry and spiced plum fla- angular feel. Tastes of zippy, tangy red fruits that Best Buy. vors. Fades on the finish; best to drink this soon. are crisp and sizzle away. Gets a bit more deep Wine Imports. —M.S. Imported by Vinaio Imports. —M.S. and earthy on the finish. Imported by Dreyfus, Bodegas Virgen del Águila 2009 Ashby & Co. —M.S. Solabal 2007 Crianza Tem- 86 ia Garnacha (Cariñena); $11. Nice 89 pranillo (Rioja); $18. Mineral, violet and minerally aromas mix with sweet dark spices, licorice and earthy cherry aromas CARIÑENA berry scents, and right then you know you form a solid, attractive bouquet. The palate is have a competent, correct Garnacha on your easygoing and chunky, but well built and struc- Monfil 2009 Garnacha (Cariñena); hands. It’s a bit acidic and bouncy, but the fla- tured. Flavors of toast and vanilla sit atop stan- 88 $11. Fruity, sweet, a touch rubbery, and vors of berry and plum are firm, tasty and fade dard raspberry and plum, while the finish is very much what you should expect from a well on the finish. A fresh and zesty wine for dry and oaky, but clean and long. Imported by good, ready, well-made Garnacha from near-term drinking. Imported by Hand Picked Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. Aragón. The palate is lush and full, with Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. snappy blackberry, raspberry and plum flavors. Palacios Remondo 2007 La Mon- Round on the finish, with size and texture. Monastir 2008 Old Vine Garnacha 88 tesa Crianza (Rioja); $20. Candied Drink now through 2012. Imported by Table 86 (Cariñena); $11. Fresh and fruity on and sweet smelling but still honest on the nose, 31 Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. the nose, and inviting for what it is: a basic Gar- with spice, cinnamon and black cherry aromas. nacha with color, spirit and lots of blackberry and The palate is fresh and healthy feeling, with Viñedos y Bodegas Pablo 2008 plum flavors. The palate is tight and rubbery, but mildly creamy cherry, berry and mocha flavors. 88 Menguante Garnacha (Cariñena); overall this is a fine value despite its short, simple Finishes creamy as well, with lasting sweetness. $12. Sweet, ripe, rich and a little baked on the finish. Imported by Belmont Select Wines. Best 60% Garnacha with 35% Tempranillo and 5% bold bouquet, with a good mouthfeel, layered Buy. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 49 BUYING I GUIDE

Ramiro’s Wine Cellar 2006 Tem- Bodegas Vinos de León 2009 CATALUNYA 92 pranillo (Vino de la Tierra de 85 Tinto Lena (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León); $100. Dark as night and full Castilla y León); $10. Aromas of pure cherry Bodegas Concavins 2006 Proyecto of black fruit aromas, this old-vines newbie is are pointed but clean. That more or less 86 Cu4tro Red (Catalunya); $12. Dry, rocking it. The nose is packed with jammy black- describes the wine, which hits with sharp acidity herbal aromas mix with a light cherry perfume berry, leather and fine spice aromas, and the but also good, slightly roasted flavors of cherry and lemon peel. The palate is a bit sharp but it’s palate is pillowy despite big tannins. Smoky, and plum. Finishes short, firm and a touch grat- clean and fresh, with dry, crisp cherry flavors mix- swarthy flavors of blackberry, cassis and stewed ing. Imported by Frontier Wine Imports. Best ing with hints of coffee and black pepper. Fin- black cherry roll, and it’s chewy, creamy and Buy. —M.S. ishes light and dry; a tapas wine for sure. chocolaty on the finish. Expensive but a high- Imported by Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. quality contender. Imported by Grapes of Spain. Bodegas Navarro López 2009 Rojo —M.S. 84 Granrojo Tempranillo-Cabernet Torres 2007 Sangre de Toro Red Sauvignon (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla); 85 Wine (Catalunya); $11. Starts with Tikalo 2004 Kios Elite Tempranillo $9. Sweet and mildly candied on the bouquet, peppery, leafy aromas that morph toward dry and 91 (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla); $27. and then it clamps down firmly in the mouth with earthy. The palate, like with all of Torres’ basic Earthy and rich Tempranillo with hints of fresh hard Cabernet tannins and lightly herbal, can- ’07 wines, is crisp and acidic, which brings tang to herbs, tomato, balsam wood and spice in addi- died flavors of medicinal black cherry. Decent the wine’s red cherry and plum flavors. Spicy, tion to roasted plum on the bouquet. The palate but not special; finishes sticky and candied. peppery and fresh on the finish. Imported by is tannic and big but shows a ton of fruit and Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.S. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. classy flavors of roasted berry, dark chocolate, licorice and dried spices. Heady on the finish and Bodegas Navarro López 2009 Rojo René Barbier NV Mediterranean aggressive, but loaded with flavor, kick and qual- 83 Granrojo Tempranillo-Garnacha 84 Red Tempranillo-Merlot ity. Drink now through 2014. Imported by Bour- (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla); $9. Quite (Catalunya); $6. Dry, lightweight and peppery, geois Family Selections. —M.S. strange and funky smelling, with uncommon but zesty, fresh and clean. The body is stream- grass, floral, hickory and blueberry aromas. The lined to the point of being lean, but the raspberry Finca Coronado 2006 Red (Vino de palate feels fine but has a sweet, faux-weedy core and cherry flavors, while also thin like a runway 88 la Tierra de Castilla); $27. This five- flavor that’s offset by candied berry flavors. Tastes model, are crisp and legit. Tart, tasty and simple grape blend is dark and concentrated, but also a of licorice and lactic creaminess on the finish. red wine. Imported by Freixenet USA. Best touch soupy and mulchy. Interestingly, the palate Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.S. Buy. —M.S. shows snappy acidity along the edges, yielding crisp flavors of cherry, raspberry and spice. Fin- Bodegas Navarro López 2009 Rojo Torres 2007 Sangre de Toro Tem- ishes dry, herbal and spicy, but needs a boost of 82 Granrojo Tempranillo (Vino de la 84 pranillo (Catalunya); $11. Smells fruit to equal previous efforts. Imported by Fine Tierra de Castilla); $9. Burnt rubber and a peppery and dark, yet the body is crisp and zingy Estates From Spain. —M.S. certain stemmy, roasted character is draped over due to sharp acidity. Flavors of raspberry and the nose and palate. It has a decent, normal feel cherry skins run fast, while the finish is acid- Tikalo 2009 Albaliza Tempranillo- to it but the flavors of strawberry and raspberry washed and quick, with a lasting bit of herbal fla- 87 Garnacha (Tierra de Castilla); $9. are herbal and burnt. Tastes and smells rubbery vor and tartness. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Dark on the nose, with licorice notes and mildly and not fully clean. Imported by Quintessential Co. —M.S. roasted black fruit aromas. Ripe, properly sized Wines. —M.S. and balanced, with lightly candied blackberry fla- vors leading to a smooth finish with a hint of cof- TIERRA DE CASTILLA fee. For the price and origin, it’s right on. SPAIN Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. Best Bodegas Leda 2005 Leda Viñas Buy. —M.S. WHITE WINES 93 Viejas Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León); $45. Early on it Casa del Valle 2005 Finca Valde- RÍAS BAIXAS displays mild heat and jamminess, but with airing 86 lagua (Vino de la Tierra de everything settles, and ultimately this old-vines Castilla); $30. Hard and roasted on the nose, Abadía de Tortoreos 2009 Albar- Tempranillo from the lauded winemaker Mari- with molasses, leather and other less-than-fruity 88 iño (Rías Baixas); $18. A round and ano Garcia excels. The palate is rich, minerally aromas. It’s narrow and clampy in the mouth, smooth version of Albariño, with apricot and and meaty, with slightly syrupy black fruit flavors, with herbal, distant flavors of peppery red fruits. orange aromas. The palate has a layered, creamy molasses and chocolate. Chewy, tannic and pure Shows some roughness and tannic bite on the fin- feel and full flavors of bulky apricot, peach and on the finish, with hints of herbs and lemon peel. ish, and also a bit of stemminess. Good but for also citrus. Fleshy on the finish, and definitely at Drink now through 2013. Imported by Folio the price and vintage it has some weaknesses. peak maturity. Drink right away. Imported by Fine Wine Partners. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Imported by Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. Table 31 Imports. —M.S.

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Fillaboa 2009 Albariño (Rías and nectarine work well together. A forward, whistle with floral aromas of jasmine, talcum 87 Baixas); $19. Smells waxy, as if it has snappy white for garlicky appetizers and olives. powder and banana. The palate is juicy, tight and slipped past its prime. The palate still sports a Imported by Winebow. —M.S. citrusy in feel, with lime and kiwi flavors. A light beam of bright acidity but there isn’t much body wine for fresh foods and simple summer settings. or lees to accompany the richness, so the volume Gorka Izagirre 2009 Blanco Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. is low as a whole. Tastes good, but mostly like cit- 86 (); $18. Round —M.S. rus and fresh fruit juice. Imported by Folio Fine and lemony on the nose, with apple and mineral- Wine Partners. —M.S. ity. The palate is juicy and fresh, with dry, angular Juan Carlos Sancha 2009 Ad Libi- pineapple and lemon flavors. Short and acidic in 84 tum Tempranillo Blanco (Rioja); Valmiñor 2010 Albariño (Rías the mouth, but fresh and clean throughout. This $40. Waxy peach aromas seem slightly oxidized. 85 Baixas); $19. Big and sort of disinter- is Basque white wine, take it or leave it. Imported It’s round and citrusy on the palate, but in a mon- ested for Albariño, with a clipped, citrusy palate by Aviva Vino. —M.S. otone way that fades to pithy white fruits and that’s choppy, salinic and green. There’s green mealy citrus. Shows some flashes of uniqueness melon and minerality here, but for a new-vintage and class; mostly it’s wayward and slightly bitter. wine it seems middling in its focus and intensity. OTHER WHITE WINES Imported by Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. Imported by Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. Terra do Lobo 2009 Godello (Mon- Reina de Castilla 2009 Sauvignon Serra da Estrela 2009 Albariño 89 terrei); $15. A well-etched Godello 84 (Rueda); $24. Pungent and grassy on 84 (Rías Baixas); $15. Tan-gold in color, with peach and citrus aromas that are straight- the nose, with a strong nettle and green herb with a mustardy, somewhat rustic bouquet that’s forward but clean as glass. The palate is smooth character. The palate is soft and playful, with salinic and short on snappy fruit. The palate is and glides along with citrus, green banana, tropi- pithy white fruit flavors and then a soda-like dry chunky, with melon and apple for flavors. Seems cal fruit and minerally flavors. On target and chis- finish. Plump, wayward and a bit green overall. low on pulse; the bet here is this was better six eled; potentially a very good wine with food. Imported by Classic Wines. —M.S. months ago and is now in decline. Imported by Imported by Winebow. —M.S. Palm Bay International. —M.S. Abad 2009 Gotín del Risc Godello Inurrieta 2009 Orchidea Sauvi- 83 (Bierzo); $14. Waxy, peachy aromas are 86 gnon Blanc (Navarra); $13. Delicate less than fresh, and the palate follows that lead VALDEORRAS and lithe Sauvignon Blanc from Navarra? Inter- via soft, pithy flavors of orange and melon. Shows esting. Tastes sort of Galician due to its clean, little grip or structure for Godello and the finish Viña Godeval 2009 Godello tropical pineapple, citrus and green apple flavors. fails to bring it home with kick or pop. Already 86 (Valdeorras); $18. Peach and melon Like a fruit salad with more acidity; doesn’t taste past its prime. Tasted twice. Imported by Table aromas are inviting and clean. Very juicy and particularly Sauvignon-ish, but likable nonethe- 31 Imports. —M.S. juice-like in the mouth, probably more so than I less. Imported by Vinaio Imports. —M.S. can remember for this wine. It tastes like orange, Masies D’Avinyo 2008 Abadal tangerine and grapefuit juices mixed together. Viñas del Vero 2009 La Miranda 82 Picapoll (); $21. Oily The texture isn’t very smooth or wine-like; seems 86 de Secastilla Garnacha Blanca and frankly a bit skunky on the nose. The palate less refined and less minerally than in the past. (); $15. Barrel toast is front and is spritzed yet soft, with chunky, blowsy, generic Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. center on the creamy, vanilla-laden bouquet. This white fruit flavors. Doesn’t inspire; this winery’s white Garnacha features good body and balance, red wines are better. Imported by Grapes of Verdes Castros 2009 Godello but the barrel influence is unavoidable and dom- Spain. —M.S. 85 (Valdeorras); $12. Stony apple aromas inant. Resiny, toasty and showing some apple are mostly neutral and lead to a fleshy, semisoft along the way. Imported by San Francisco Wine Kurmisti 2009 Hondarrabi Zuri palate with citrus, kiwi and notes of oxidation. Exchange. —M.S. 81 (Spain); $13. Mild lime and mineral Nice and easy but sort of plump and bland. The aromas draw interest, but the wine’s palate is finish indicates that it’s starting to bend and will Spanish Vines 2009 Sauvignon medium spritzy and sour, with sharp, lemony fla- break sooner rather than later. Drink now. 85 Blanc (La Mancha); $10. Recom- vors and a dilute feel. Seems caught between the Imported by Vino . —M.S. mended with caution. The sample this note is flat and lightly carbonated style of Txakoli and based on was weighty and smooth, with apple and ends up in no man’s land. Imported by Scoperta floral notes and then an almosty buttery palate Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. BIZKAIKO TXAKOLINA with baked apple and citrus flavors. Oddly, it’s a soft, ripe wine that’s fading and not showing Finca Torremilanos 2008 Peñalba Itsas Mendi 2009 Hondarrabi Zuri much Sauvignon Blanc typicity. Imported by 80 López (Vino de la Tierra de 88 (Bizkaiko Txakolina); $18. Clean, Spanish Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. Castilla y León); $22. Tan like cream soda, fresh and oozing apple and citrus on the nose. with a weird, faded bouquet of banana pudding The palate mixes some body with spritz to good Torres 2010 Sangre de Toro White and resiny oak. Soft and weakly structured except results, and the flavors of driving lemon, citrus 85 Wine (Catalunya); $10. Whets the for lasting acidity, while it tastes like fermented

WineMag.com | 51 BUYING I GUIDE apples and finishes on bitter walnut. A strange one, the antidote for those who consider Califor- riper blackberries and black cherries have a bird made from Sauvignon Blanc and white Tem- nia Cabernet a simple fruit bomb. Completely chewy, meaty edge, with notes of cola and bacon. pranillo. Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. dry, with exquisite tannins, its blackberry, currant, Very fine tannins and acidity suggest midterm to red licorice and oak-inspired flavors are massive longterm aging, but it’s a splendid sipper now. and classic. Hard to exaggerate how good this Should develop through 2018, at least. Cellar CALIFORNIA fine wine is. Drink 2013–2020 and beyond. Cel- Selection. —S.H. lar Selection. —S.H. RED WINES Ideology Cellars 2007 Cabernet Stephen & Walker 2007 Cabernet 95 Sauvignon (Oak Knoll); $39. CABERNETS & BLENDS 96 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain); Although this Cab is too young and tannic to $65. An absolutely first-rate Cabernet that not drink now, it’s impressive for its volume and Stonestreet 2007 Rockfall Caber- only shows the big tannins and ageworthiness of depth, as well as the future possibilities. Shows a 99 net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); Howell Mountain, but is made in a dry style that huge core of blackberries, currants and cassis, $75. This is Cabernet Sauvignon lifted to great- calls to mind a fine Left Bank Bordeaux. It’s a with a mineral tang and near-perfect oak applica- ness, an impeccable statement concerning this big wine, voluminous in tannins and extremely tion. Grows more complex and generous as it region of the high Mayacamas Mountains on the mouth-filling, and the blackberry and cassis fla- breathes in the glass. Give it 4–5 years in the cel- Sonoma side that, by law, is forced to bear a “val- vors have elements of dried herbs, minerals, lar to soften and mellow. Editors’ Choice. — ley” appellation. The wine is awesome, vast and tobacco and cedar. Already throwing some sedi- S.H. complex, fascinating in every aspect, yet locked ment, it should develop in the bottle for at least down in tough tannins that exaggerate the acidity, the next eight years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Verité 2006 Le Desir (Sonoma making the wine functionally undrinkable. It is a 95 County); $300. Extremely tannic at beautiful, classic Cabernet, very near perfect, and Stonestreet 2007 Monument the age of five years, and that astringency accen- certainly one of the successes of the vintage. 96 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon tuates the dryness, making the wine austere and Don’t even think of drinking it before 2014, and (Alexander Valley); $45. A dramatic wine, distant. It has a dense, complex core of blackber- it should evolve in the bottle for a good 10 years authoritative in tannins, bone dry and noble. ries, coated with immaculately fine, sweet oak. after that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Withholds its best under a cloak of astringency, Feels important and dramatic, but too young. but already shows its mountain terroir in the Begs to be housed in a good cellar for a good Verité 2006 La Joie (Sonoma complexity of its structure and deep, intense eight years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 98 County); $300. Massive essence of blackberry, currant, blueberry and dried herb fla- Cabernet Sauvignon, a triumph. Shows huge vors. Should develop bottle complexities for at Bennett Lane 2007 Cabernet waves of blackberries, black currants and cassis, least a decade and probably longer. Editors’ 94 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $55. Very dark chocolate, earthy minerals and considerable Choice. —S.H. ripe, dense and concentrated. Although it’s totally oak, which is tasteful and unobtrusive, With its dry, the wine shows massive, sweet flavors of dryness and perfect balance, it will easily negoti- Stonestreet 2007 Christopher’s blackberry and cherry fruit. Impresses for sheer ate the years. Should be fine well past the year 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander power, as well as the length of finish. Cellar this 2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Valley); $100. Grown in a portion of the win- youthful beauty for 6–7 years and see what it ery’s considerable holdings in the high Mayaca- does. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Black Coyote 2007 Reserve Caber- mas range, this Cabernet is ridiculously rich and 97 net Sauvignon (Atlas Peak); $85. flamboyant in black currant flavors, wrapped into Darioush 2007 Signature Caber- Tasted blind in a large group of Napa Valley the ripest, densest, sweetest tannins imaginable. 94 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $80. Cabernets, this one stood out for sheer power Exceptionally vibrant, intense and compact, it The winery’s top bottling, and this vintage and authority. It’s absolutely delicious, dazzling will develop bottle complexity for a good 15 recalls the tremendous 2000. Tastes important showing blackberry tart, cherry pie with the years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. right off the bat, although it’s also obviously sweet, smoky crust, cassis and baking spice fla- young and unintegrated. New, smoky oak vors, wrapped into wonderfully thick, fine tan- Charnu 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon dominates, with themes of ripe, concentrated nins. Pure California fruit, but dry, balanced 95 (St. Helena); $75. Classic Napa blackberries and cassis, but the tannins are and nuanced. A classic, but high-alcohol haters Cabernet, with perfectly ripened blackberry, hard as nails. Wants and needs time. Best well will find plenty to complain about. Drink cherry and cassis fruit, nicely elaborated by after 2013, and should develop for years now–2020. —S.H. sweet, smoky oak, and framed in ripe, smooth beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H. tannins. Really a lovely wine, with the balanced Stonestreet 2007 Black Cougar equilibrium to ride out the next decade. —S.H. Diamond Terrace 2007 Cabernet 97 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 94 Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain); (Alexander Valley); $75. Pretty much as good Freemark Abbey 2006 Bosche $55. Made in a tight, austere but nonetheless as any Cabernet out there, if not better, and at a 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford); flashy style, this Cabernet has herb and mineral fraction of the price you’ll pay for the “cults.” If $70. Very rich, ripe and complex, showing a notes alongside fruitier ones of blackberries and there was ever a wine made for the cellar, it’s this near-perfect display of flavors and textures. The black cherries. It’s gritty in tannins and already

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 throwing some sediment. Needs time, badly, and and the tannin-acid balance is utterly classic. This and should age for 4–6 years, if not longer. should warrant a good ten years in the bottle. beautiful wine is a partnership between three Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Very fine. Cellar Selection. —S.H. well-known and high-scoring vintners from other brands. It is a winery worth following. —S.H. Cardinale 2007 Red Wine (Napa Franciscan 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- 93 Valley); $300. A darkly colored, tannic 94 gnon (Napa Valley); $28. A terrific Verité 2006 La Muse (Sonoma Cabernet whose dry astringency keeps it from wine that proves you don’t have to spend a for- 94 County); $260. Lots going on in this being thoroughly enjoyable now. Despite the tune for a top-flight Napa Valley Cabernet. It’s a mountain-grown wine. It’s perfectly dry and astringency, however, it showcases an immacu- deeply flavored, brooding young wine, filled with strong in tannins, with an elusive quality of excel- late core of blackberries and black currants. Ele- exciting blackberry, cassis and mineral flavors. Big lence that testifies to the best terroir. Showing gant and classy, it should age well throughout the in tannins, yet with a very refined, classy mouth- blackberry, black cherry, mineral and oak flavors, decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. feel, it should begin to hit its stride after 2014. it should develop bottle complexity for at least Editors’ Choice. —S.H. the next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Cimarossa 2007 Riva di Ponente 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Krupp Brothers 2006 Stagecoach Arns 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain); $75. One for the cellar. It’s dry and 94 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 93 (Napa Valley); $75. Few Cabernets locked down in hard tannins, the kind that (Napa Valley); $90. Hugely intense in fruity get riper than this. It’s fruity sweet in the mouth, sting your gums. Even so, they can’t quite concentration. Few wines in the world have this with generous blackberry and cherry flavors, mask the torrents of blackberry and currant size, this ripeness, this dramatic volume. New oak while charred oak lends a buttery, pie crust fruit. It’s strong, intense and dazzling. Lay this is in keeping with the proportion of fruit, and the sweetness. Yet the wine is totally dry. Strong, young wine down until at least 2015. Cellar tannins are strong and hard, as they tend to be refined tannins lend the necessary structure to Selection. —S.H. from this vineyard, whichsprawls across Atlas make this a remarkable Cabernet. Fine now, and Peak. There seems to be no reason why this should develop over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. D.R. Stephens 2008 D.R. II Caber- Cabernet should not develop over the years. 93 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $65. Hold until 2013, at the very least. Cellar Selec- Azalea Springs 2006 Cabernet This Cabernet possesses that elusive quality tion. —S.H. 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $70. variously called finesse or elegance. Even Smells and tastes just great, with all the hall- though it’s a big wine, filled with blackberry, Rodney Strong 2007 Rockaway marks of an important Napa Cabernet. It’s rich cassis, dark chocolate and oak flavors, and the 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander in blackberries, black currants, cassis and min- tannins are firm, it feels like pure velvet, show- Valley); $75. Made from 100% Cabernet grown erals. Near- perfect tannins and a tasteful ing pedigree all the way through the long fin- in a hilly part of the valley, this wine is tight and overlay of sweet oak add textural complexity. ish. An impressive wine to drink now, but it dry in tannins. It’s so astringent, it’s nearly impos- For all that, the wine feels young and brusque. should gain traction over the next decade. Pro- sible to enjoy now. Yet it’s extraordinarily rich and It wants 6–7 years of age to begin to strut its duction was 615 cases. —S.H. explosive in blackberry tart, black cherry pie and stuff. Open after 2012. —S.H. cassis flavors, and feels dramatic in the mouth. Franciscan 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Should easily improve over the next decade. Hold Black Cordon 2007 Cabernet 93 gnon (Oakville); $45. With aggres- until 2013. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $60. This sive young tannins, this Cabernet just isn’t ready is a tight young Cabernet, marked by fresh acidity for prime time. It has a rich, molten core of Stephen & Walker 2008 Cabernet and firm tannins. The vineyard sourcing is all blackberries and cassis, however, with enough 94 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain); southern Napa, from cooler mountain and flat- enabling acidity to see it through. A classic $65. A very fine Cabernet Sauvignon, dry and land areas in this cool vintage. The wine, which Oakville wine that you should cellar until at least classically structured. It’s a big, full-bodied wine, has some Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, is 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. with hefty tannins that effectively lock down nowhere near ready. Through the astringency, intense flavors of blackberries, cassis, dark choco- however, erupts a blast of blackberry, black Frank Family 2007 Reserve Caber- late and minerals. Complex and dramatic, this cherry and cassis fruit, with an elaborate but 93 net Sauvignon (Rutherford); $85. beauty is clearly a cellar candidate. Give it 6–8 tasteful coating of flashy new oak. Needs serious Tastes austere and aloof now, with the core of years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. time. Should blossom after 2014, and develop for black cherry and blackberry fruit cut off by an many years after. Cellar Selection. —S.H. encircling army of spear-tipped tannins. But very Tres Vinicultores 2007 The Treat finely structured, dry and classic, just waiting to 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- Buehler 2007 Papa’s Knoll Caber- express its inner beauty. One for the cellar. Give ley); $75. The winery says it can’t reveal the 93 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $45. it 6–7 years to begin to come around. Cellar source of the grapes, which is odd, but we do A really wonderful Cabernet, clearly grown Selection. —S.H. know it’s in Rutherford. Made from 100% Cab, well and well made. It has that plush, rich feel- and aged in 100% new French oak, it is, in a ing you want in a Cabernet Sauvignon, with Freemark Abbey 2007 Bosché word, splendid. Rich in blackberries, cassis and deliciously ripe blackberry, black currant, cas- 93 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon dark chocolate, the fruit was clearly well grown, sis and dark chocolate flavors. Terrific now, (Napa Valley); $70. Shows all the hallmarks

WineMag.com | 53 BUYING I GUIDE of an important young Napa Cabernet. Bone dry black currant fruitiness, while preserving the Cimarossa 2007 Rian Cabernet and quite hard in tannins, it’s immensely concen- dryness and fine tannins of Atlas Peak. At the 92 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain); trated in blackberries, black currants, cassis and age of more than six years, it still remains $75. Hard to appreciate now, its tannins are so fine, smoky new oak. Possesses that elusive qual- rather tough and resistant. Considering its numbing, they effectively lock down the wine. ity of dramatic terroir, a real sense of place. Very mountain origins, it should slowly develop But there’s clearly a big, flashy core of blackber- fine young wine that needs time. Cellar until at additional bottle complexity over the next 6–8 ries, leading to a rich, chocolate-infused finish. least 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. An ager that shows classic Howell Mountain ter- roir. Better after 2014. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Freemark Abbey 2007 Cabernet Arns 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $40. 92 (Napa Valley); $75. Deep and impres- Crocker & Starr 2006 Bridesmaid Shows all the hallmarks of an ageable wine. It’s sively focused, and long in the finish, this rich 92 Red Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa bone dry, big and hard in tannins, and densely Cabernet impresses with fruity blackberry, cherry Valley); $39. Fat, fleshy and opulent, a Marilyn packed with blackberries, cherries, cola, licorice and raspberry flavors. So rich and ripe, yet bal- Monroe type of wine with enough curves to daz- and smoky cedar notes. Nowhere near ready. anced with lively acidity and firm tannins. At the zle. Appeals immediately for its rich, saturated Better after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. age of five-plus, it’s probably best now and for blackberry and cherry flavors, wrapped into soft, the next several years. —S.H. velvety tannins. There’s an inherent firmness that Gamble Family Vineyards 2006 should allow this Cabernet to age gracefully into 93 Family Home Cabernet Sauvignon Arrowood 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- middle age. —S.H. (Oakville); $60. There’s a wild quality to the 92 gnon (Sonoma Valley); $35. Shut fruit, as if the blackberries and cherries were down by hard tannins and utterly dry, this fine Flying Horse 2005 Cabernet Sauvi- picked in some sunny hollow in a eucalyptus for- young Cabernet is simply not ready to drink. It’s 92 gnon (Napa Valley); $25. This is the est. The wine is streamlined and intense, with very rich in blackberries, smoked meat and kind of Cabernet that’s soft and accessible focused, chiseled tannins. Showing superb bal- charred wood, with a finish that’s fine, long and enough to drink now. It’s rich in blackberry, ance and an unerring sense of control, it should sweet in ripe fruits. Should blossom after 2014 cherry and spice flavors, with a sweet edge of develop in the bottle over the next 8–10 years. and hold for a number of years. Cellar Selec- charred wood. Saved from mere simplicity by a Cellar Selection. —S.H. tion. —S.H. fine, firm tannic structure. Editors’ Choice. — S.H. Krupp Brothers 2007 Stagecoach Arrowood 2007 Monte Rosso 93 Vineyard Synchrony (Napa Val- 92 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Flying Horse 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- ley); $70. The wine tastes and feels important. (Sonoma Valley); $70. Dryness and tannins 92 gnon (Napa Valley); $25. This is one It has great weight and depth. The tannins are mark this Cabernet, giving it some austerity and of those “best kept secrets” that pop up from extraordinarily thick, but ripe and smoothly astringency. But lurking deep below the surface is time to time. The grapes come from the warm sweet. And then there’s the fruit, a detonation of a vast underground landscape of blackberry fruit, Pope Valley region, and the wine, made from free blackberries, cherries, blueberries and cassis, not cassis, plums, olives, herbs and oak. Fascinating run juice, was aged in 55% new French oak. It to mention the oak, which seems as fine as oak and intricate and a little heady, but undrinkable has the feel and taste of Cabernets far more gets. This superb wine seems like an obvious cel- now due to immaturity. Needs 5–6 years to show expensive. Almost overripe, it veers back at the lar candidate. It should ride out the decade its stuff. Cellar Selection. —S.H. last minute into pure, sweet blackberry essence. effortlessly. Cellar Selection. —S.H. A great bargain, but only 317 cases were pro- Arrowood 2007 Reserve Speciale duced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Rodney Strong 2007 Brothers 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Val- 93 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon ley); $110. Dark as a moonless midnight, dry as Kendall-Jackson 2008 Vintner’s (Alexander Valley); $75. This nearly 100% dust, with hard-edged tannins, this Cabernet is 92 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet is strongly flavored, bone dry, very tan- almost undrinkable now in its extreme youth. It (Sonoma-Napa); $18. A wonderfully good nic and nowhere near ready. It has a tough, shows a massive core of blackberries, currants, wine, especially at this price. Easily the best K-J astringent mouthfeel, and the concentrated rich- dark baker’s chocolate and smoky oak, and the Vintner’s Reserve ever. Inky black, full-bodied ness of grapes grown on low-yielding hillsides. balance of acidity makes it clean and bright. All and dry, it houses rich, complex blackberry, plum Intense flavors of blackberries, black cherries, indications are of a cellarworthy wine. Drink and smoky oak flavors, wrapped into finely cassis, cola and herbs mark this fine, ageable 2014 and beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ground, firm tannins. Run, don’t walk, to find this wine. Don’t touch it before 2013, and it should affordable beauty. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ride out many years beyond that. Cellar Selec- Cimarossa 2007 Rive di Cimarossa tion. —S.H. 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell White Cottage Ranch 2008 Estate Mountain); $60. Deliciously fruity and sweet 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Ardente 2004 Grande Riserva in blackberries, cherries and raspberries, with a Mountain); $55. Put this one in the cellar and 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak); wonderful application of smoky oak. Really good forget about it for a good six years, if not far $45. The warm vintage worked in this wine’s now as an upscale Napa Cabernet, it should also longer. It’s tannic and youthfully rude in fruity favor, ripening the grapes to blackberry and develop for 6–8 years in the cellar. —S.H. flavor, and the oak barrel influence presently

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 dominates. But it’s finely made and pure, showing Mountain); $90. Dark as midnight in a moon- Cabernet for drinking now and over the next five its Howell Mountain roots, and should easily less sky, dry as dust, hard and astringent in tan- years. It shows classically ripe, smooth Napa tan- develop bottle complexity for many years. Cellar nins. That’s the challenge this immature nins that frame exuberant flavors of blackberries, Selection. —S.H. Cabernet presents, which makes it difficult to black cherries and cassis. Give it a good long appreciate now. However, it has deep, fine decant before serving. —S.H. Amici 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon blackberry and cherry fruit flavors, and should 91 (Napa Valley); $35. Darker and richer have a good future. The score reflects the pos- Chateau St. Jean 2007 Cinq than Amici’s second label (Olema), this is sibilities after 5–7 years of aging. Cellar 90 Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon anchored by ripe cassis and chocolate flavors. Selection. —S.H. (Sonoma County); $75. Not showing well in Cedary oak and minty accents add complexity, its youth. It’s all sharp tannins and acids and while the mouthfeel is velvety soft, finishing with Longboard 2007 Redgrav Vine- blackberry-cherry jam fruit that smacks of imma- a touch of warmth. Probably best consumed over 91 yard Cabernet Sauvignon turity. But it’s clearly well made, and has the the next few years. (Alexander Valley); $50. There’s a very good depth and length of finish of a Cabernet that wine in this bottle that wants to come out, but should gain in the bottle. Better after 2014. Cel- Charnu 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon right now, it’s locked down in youthfully dry, lar Selection. —S.H. 91 (St. Helena); $75. Dry, dramatic and herbal tannins. It’s a very rich, finely grown wine, rich, a Cabernet whose authoritative tannins showing the ripeness of the vintage in its black- Dry Creek Vineyard 2007 Caber- mark it as classic Napa Valley. Beyond that are berry, black cherry and mocha flavors. Should 90 net Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley); ripe blackberry, black currant and cassis flavors develop bottle complexity over the next 5–8 $25. This excellent wine, which is made from that are liberally oaked. Needs some time to years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. the five classic Bordeaux varieties, shows the come around, although you could drink it now briary, tannic quality of Dry Creek Valley red with a good decant. But better 2013–2018. Cel- Stonestreet 2007 Legacy (Alexan- wines. It’s a lusty, complex sipper with quite a lar Selection. —S.H. 91 der Valley); $85. Dramatically rich lot of character and personality, and should and full-bodied in blackberry, cassis, dark choco- provide good drinking over the next six years Diamond Terrace 2007 Cabernet late and oak flavors. With thick, fine tannins giv- or so. —S.H. 91 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain); ing it a youthful astringency, this Bordeaux blend $75. This young, brash Cabernet is filled with needs to be cellared. Should develop bottle notes Freemark Abbey 2006 Sycamore adolescent power and angst. It’s all sinew and over the next ten years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 90 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon potency now, in the grip of strong, masculine tan- (Rutherford); $70. This is a powerful, gutsy nins that overshadow the blackberry fruit. It’s Amici 2007 Olema Cabernet Cabernet, currently lacking finesse. It’s young, clearly a cellar candidate, and should emerge, in 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $20. dry and brash, with sticky tannins and eight years or so, with authority. Cellar Selec- Nicely balanced, with cedar, mint and cherry unmelded flavors and textures. The black- tion. —S.H. notes presented in a medium-bodied format. It’s berry, cherry and oak flavors are sweet and on the crisp side for Napa Cabernet, with red delicious. Seems best now and soon, although Dry Creek Vineyard 2006 Endeav- fruit and chocolaty oak combining on the slightly it could be a sleeper. —S.H. 91 our Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry tart finish. Drink it over the next few years with Creek Valley); $60. The winery’s top wine, it steak and be happy. Editors’ Choice. Gamble Family Vineyards 2006 explores the uppermost possibilities of Dry Creek 90 Paramount (Napa Valley); $60. Valley Cabernet. The brusque tannins and briary, Bennett Lane 2007 Reserve Caber- This softly rich, smooth red wine is a blend of green peppercorns are reminiscent of Zinfandel, 90 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $95. unidentified varieties. It’s intricately layered in making the wine, despite elaborate blackberry Tons of fresh, succulent cherry and raspberry blackberries, bacon, tobacco, mocha, sandalwood and cassis flavors, somewhat rustic. Yet it’s an fruit flavors in this savory wine, elaborated with and spice flavors, wrapped into firm and gentle interesting rusticity, with lots of personality, and sweet, smoky oak. Made in a drink-me-now style, tannins. Drink now, with rich fare. —S.H. certainly provides an alternative to Napa’s soft it’s soft and lush, with beautifully ripe, smooth lushness. —S.H. tannins. —S.H. Grove Street 2008 Healdsburg 90 Ridge Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- Highway 12 2007 Reserve Caber- Boeschen Vineyards 2008 Caber- gnon (Sonoma County); $28. Rich, savory 91 net Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley); 90 net Sauvignon (St. Helena); $75. and interesting to drink. In fact, it’s probably the $38. A polished, complex wine to drink now, Gritty tannins frame this Cabernet, with classic best Grove Street Cabernet in years. Dry and despite considerable tannins. Give it a decant for blackberry, black currant, cassis and cedar flavors. fruity, it shows firm tannins bracing the black- a few hours to let it mellow. Shows ripe black- It’s rich, full-bodied and appealingly dry, although berry and cherry flavors. —S.H. berry, cherry, licorice, cola and smoky oak flavors it’s missing just a bit of the complexity you want that are young, intense and nervy in acids. —S.H. in a top-tier Napa Cab of this price. —S.H. Katherine Goldschmidt 2008 90 Crazy Creek Vineyard Cabernet La Jota 2007 Heritage Release Burgess 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $20. For 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell 90 (Napa Valley); $38. Here’s a good twenty bucks or less, you get a Cabernet that’s

WineMag.com | 55 BUYING I GUIDE lush, soft and rich. The fruity flavors of freshly they’re very finely crafted. This is a wine that off-center to do more interesting things over crushed, ripe raspberries and cherries are should age. It was tasted three times, with varying the long haul. —S.H. accented by hints of smoky oak in this gently tan- results, so this score reflects an average. —S.H. nic wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Buehler 2007 Estate Cabernet Crocker & Starr 2007 Stone Place 88 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $36. A Kendall-Jackson 2007 Highland 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena); very nice Cabernet that pleases now for its rich 90 Estates Napa Mountain Cabernet $90. A big, extracted and, as currently con- array of blackberry, cherry and oak flavors. It’s Sauvignon (Mount Veeder); $70. A firmly structed, somewhat ponderous wine that’s not smooth and soft and a little sweet in the finish, structured, dry Cabernet whose thick mountain showing all that well. Could simply be immature, like the aftertaste of a berry tart. —S.H. tannins frame classic Cabernet flavors of black- but it does seem to lack a certain vibrancy. Other berries and cassis, elaborated with smoky new than that, it’s powerful in blackberry, black cherry Darms Lane 2007 Bon Passe Vine- oak. Not showing its best now, but needs time. and oak flavors, accompanied by strong tannins. yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Try beyond 2014. —S.H. Could surprise after, say, 2014. —S.H. 88 Valley); $60. The vineyard is in the Oak Knoll District. The wine is dry and full-bodied, packed Kendall-Jackson 2008 Highland Dry Creek Vineyard 2007 Mer- with ripe blackberries, black cherries and black Estates Trace Ridge (Knights Val- itage (Dry Creek Valley); $28. This 90 89 currants, as well as toasty oak. A bit brusque in ley); $75. Shows good, deep, classic blackberry young wine is tough in tannins and rather forward tannins at this young age, it should be cellared and cassis flavors, richly oaked, as well as some and jammy in blackberries, cherries and raspberries, hard tannins. Fundamentally closed and aloof with a sweet coating of oak. It’s a bit rusti, lacking for a few years. —S.H. now, hiding its riches beneath an impenetrable some smoothness and finesse, but the fruit is very Franciscan 2006 Magnificat (Napa coating of astringency. Give it 6–8 years in a cool pure, and the bottle could develop in unpredictable cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ways over the years. —S.H. 88 Valley); $50. Somewhat of an off-vin- tage for this Bordeaux blend. The wine is strong Markham 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Frank Family 2007 Winston Hill in varietal flavor, offering an explosion of cherry 90 gnon (Napa Valley); $27. Good 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford); and blackberry pie filling, plum, blackstrap price for a Cabernet Sauvignon this complex and $150. Sweet and ripe in jammy cherries and molasses, cola, chocolate and smoky cedar. But it rewarding. Grown in the cool Yountville area, the blackberries, and framed in sweet, rich tannins, seems to lack a bit of structural class and sub- wine brims with fresh acidity, brisk tannins and this Cabernet seems a bit direct and unidimen- tlety. Drink now. —S.H. ripe, pure flavors of blackberries and black cher- sional now. It could be going through an awk- ries. It has a degree of elegance and finesse that ward period of bottle blues, from which it could Freemark Abbey 2007 Sycamore make it especially recommendable. —S.H. emerge after 4–6 additional years. After that, the 88 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon score could rise considerably, but right now, it’s (Napa Valley); $70. New oak dominates this Martin Ray 2007 Reserve Caber- somewhat candied and rustic. —S.H. wine, and the tannins, which are derived from 90 net Sauvignon (Diamond Moun- both the wood and the grapes, give it an unre- tain); $50. A good, classy Cabernet that should Kissos 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon lieved astringency. Not showing much pleasure develop some bottle complexity in the cellar. It’s 89 (Napa Valley); $58. Lots of rich, ripe now, but there’s a solid core of blackberries and dry and elegant in Napa tannins, with intensely blackberry and cassis flavors in this dry, full-bod- black cherries. It’s unclear if the fruit will outlast concentrated blackberry and cassis flavors. Too ied Cabernet. It’s quite scoury in youth, with the tannins. —S.H. strong to drink now, unless you don’t care about strong, edgy tannins and a hit of zippy acidity. subtlety. Try giving it 4–6 years. —S.H. Give it 5–6 years in the cellar to begin to calm Martorana 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- down. Cellar Selection. —S.H. gnon (Dry Creek Valley); $45. Dry, Martin Ray 2007 Reserve Caber- 88 rugged and brambly. You might almost think it net Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Moun- Kissos 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 was Zinfandel, it’s so peppery, leathery and briary tains); $45. Shows the intense concentration of (Napa Valley); $50. A pretty, polished 89 in wild berry flavors and sandpapery tannins. It’s mountain-grown grapes and the acidity of a cool- Cabernet, rich and spicy in jammy black rasp- quite good, in a Dry Creek way. Drink soon for climate vineyard. The combination yields this berry and cherry fruit. Ripe, smooth Napa tan- robust young Cabernet Sauvignon. With potent nins give it an upscale mouthfeel. Seems best freshness and vitality. —S.H. blackberry and mineral flavors, it could develop over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. for up to six years in the cellar. —S.H. Stonestreet 2007 Monolith Caber- White Cottage Ranch 2008 Estate 88 net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); World’s End 2008 Good Times, 89 Risa Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell $75. Young, dense, tannic and oaky, a tough wine 90 Bad Times Beckstoffer To Kalon Mountain); $35. An intense Cabernet, packed that resists the palate. There’s a core of black- Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville); with concentrated mountain fruit flavors of berry and currant fruit, and things may resolve $100. A huge wine, rich and tannic, stuffed with blackberries, black cherries and cassis, and themselves over the years. Yet it doesn’t seem blackberry, cherry, currant, dark chocolate and wrapped in hard, mouth-numbing tannins. to have the integrity of Stonestreet’s other oak flavors. While the tannins are considerable, Might age for a year or three, but seems a bit ’07s. —S.H.

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Ardente 2003 Grande Riserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville); $85. layers of complexity and depth. Still, it’s not bad 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak); Tough in tannins, hard in acids, and funky, this for the price. Drink now. —S.H. $45. Tannic astringency marks this Cabernet, Cabernet is difficult to appreciate now despite even though it’s more than seven years old. It obviously ripe blackberries and cassis. It resists DeLorimier 2005 Mosaic Meritage feels hard and unrelieved in the mouth, although the palate’s attempts to break it down, and fin- 85 (Alexander Valley); $40. Tastes sim- there’s enough blackberry, cherry and cassis fla- ishes with a firm astringency. Maybe it will age ple and fruity-sweet and over-worked, with ripe, vor to satisfy. The question is whether or not con- out. Try after 2014. —S.H. jammy black cherry fruit flavors and lots of sweet, tinued aging will eventually bring this tough, caramelized oak. Will appeal to fans of this easy aggressive wine around. Try after 2013. —S.H. Calcareous 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- style. —S.H. 86 gnon (York Mountain); $34. This Darioush 2008 Caravan Cabernet very strongly flavored Cabernet isn’t showing Dutch Henry Winery 2005 Argos 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $39. much subtlety. It offers a blast of ripe blackber- 85 Hill (Napa Valley); $44. There’s Rich, ripe and extracted, with a wealth of black- ries and black currants, with notes of dark choco- something old-fashioned about this wine, in its berry, cherry and cola fruit flavors. Missing some late and sweet smoky notes from oak. High strong, edgy tannins and rustic mouthfeel. Yet it’s depth and subtlety, but it sure is a polished and alcohol gives it a little heat in the finish. Drink high and hot in alcohol, with extracted, jammy delicious sipper. Drink now. —S.H. now. —S.H. cherry and raisin flavors. Doesn’t seem to be an ager, so drink now. —S.H. Highway 12 2006 Reserve Cimarossa 2007 Riva di Levante 87 (Sonoma Valley); $55. Give this Bor- 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Dutch Henry Winery 2005 Chafen deaux blend a good, long decant before you pour. Mountain); $75. Smells a little funky and 85 Vineyards Hillside Estate Caber- It’s tight and young in tannins and acids, and the leathery, with an exaggeratedly sweet taste to net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $48. Dry and blackberry, cherry and currant flavors have a the blackberries and cherries. The end impres- acidic, this 100% Cabernet isn’t offering much jammy edge. It’s a well-made wine despite the sion is of a wine that’s certainly ripe, but a lit- now. It’s strong in tannins and modest in black- rugged mouthfeel. Based on Merlot, its future is tle awkward, maybe even problematic. Seems berry fruit. Feels austere and hot, with 15.7% entirely unpredictable. —S.H. best now. —S.H. alcohol, and its future is far from assured. —S.H. Kelleher 2005 Brix Vineyard Ghost Pines 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- Hess 2008 Allomi Cabernet Sauvi- Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville); gnon (Napa County/Sonoma 87 86 gnon (Napa Valley); $28. Oak domi- $82. Tastes as sweet as a dessert pastry, with sug- County); $23. Dry, full-bodied and tannic, this 85 nates this wine, giving it toast and vanilla caramel ary blackberry, cherry and raspberry flavors twin-county blend has Lifesaver candy flavors of aromas and flavors. The underlying wine is soft framed by pie-crust smokiness. The tannins are blackberries and cherries. It’s a rugged, lusty and and fruity, with blackberries and cherries. Drink gorgeous. As fine as it is, the wine could and country-style wine that’s easy to find, with pro- now. Production was 24,146 cases. —S.H. should be drier and firmer, especially at this duction of nearly 70,000 cases. —S.H. price. —S.H. Peter Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- Jericho Canyon Vineyard 2006 Manookian 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- 86 Creek Block Cabernet Sauvignon 85 gnon (Chalk Hill); $25. Made with a 87 gnon (Howell Mountain); $50. (Napa Valley); $45. There’s a funky smell, like splash of Cabernet Franc, this wine is soft, a little Earns points for sheer size, a powerhouse of con- a sweaty horse, alongside strong oak notes. As a sweet and oaky. Fifty percent new French barrels centrated, intense blackberry and cassis flavors, result, the underlying grape fruit flavor seems shows up in the form of butterscotch and vanilla, liberally coated with oak. The tannins are big, tamped down, an impression contributed to by while the underlying grape flavors of blackber- thick and hard, and at this point, the wine is not hard tannins. The conclusion is of a tough, young ries and cherries are tasty. Drink now. —S.H. showing much drinkability. Ageability might be and awkward young Cabernet. —S.H. compromised by some superripe, raisiny fruit Wilson 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon notes. Tasted twice. —S.H. Turnbull 2007 Black Label Caber- 85 (Dry Creek Valley); $26. At more 86 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); than four years of age, this Cabernet is as good as Robert Young 2006 Scion Caber- $100. Plenty of ripe, jammy blackberry, black it will ever be. It’s soft and gentle in black rasp- 87 net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); currant, dark chocolate and smoky oak flavors on berry and cherry jam flavors, with a sugary sweet $58. Shows the wonderfully soft, ripe, dusty tan- this dry, full-bodied wine. High alcohol shows up finish. —S.H. nins of Alexander Valley, as well as pure, ripe in the form of chile pepper heat, and the mouth- blackberry, black cherry, cassis and smoky oak fla- feel is a little flabby. Seems unbalanced. Try cel- DeLorimier 2006 Warm Springs vors that are frankly delicious. The finish, how- laring, but no guarantees. Tasted twice. —S.H. 84 Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry ever, is overly sweet, which likely will limit Creek Valley); $32. So much oak on this ageability. —S.H. Bennett Lane 2008 Turn 4 Caber- wine, it’s like being inside a barrel. Vanilla, 85 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $20. buttered toast, caramel and char flavors star, World’s End 2008 Crossfire Beck- Simple and everyday, with cherry and blackberry with a bit of blackberry fruit struggling to 87 stoffer Missouri Hopper Vineyard jam flavors. Good and dry, but could use extra express itself. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 57 BUYING I GUIDE

DeLorimier 2006 Crazy Creek Tastes dramatic and youthfully vital, with fat, ture, with brisk acidity and smooth tannins fram- 84 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon fleshy flavors of blackberries, cassis, mocha ing ripe cherry fruit, bacon and sandalwood fla- (Alexander Valley); $40. Soft and candied, and sweet cedar, as well as a mineral tang that vors. Lacks a certain finesse, but definitely a with raspberry, cherry and oak flavors that taste grounds them. Very upscale and refined, a worthwhile venture by the winery, and a wine to as sweet as a pastry dessert. A simple wine that pure product of superior terroir and winemak- watch. —S.H. seems overpriced. —S.H. ing. —S.H. Quivira 2008 Elusive (Dry Creek Waterstone 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- Kendall-Jackson 2006 Stature 88 Valley); $28. This Rhône blend of 84 gnon (Napa Valley); $26. A touch of 94 (Napa Valley); $120. A beautiful Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre contains a overripeness mars this otherwise fine wine. Dry wine, supple and delicious. Classically dry and splash of Petite Sirah. It’s a classy wine, bone dry, and smoothly tannic, its blackberry and currant tannic, it shows fascinating, elusive blackberry, tannic and full-bodied, and while it shows the flavors have Porty notes of raisins. —S.H. blueberry, currant and herb flavors, elaborated rustic, briary nature of Dry Creek Valley, it’s awe- with sweet, smoky oak. Lots going on here, and it some in blackberries, cherries, raspberries and Herzog 2008 Special Reserve should develop nicely in the bottle over the next mocha, with a deliciously meaty edge of bacon. 83 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander decade. —S.H. There’s no reason why this wine shouldn’t age in Valley); $38. Too soft for comfort, and too interesting ways over the next six years. —S.H. sweet, although the softness may exaggerate the Matanzas Creek 2008 Journey true sugar content. Either way, this simple wine 93 (Sonoma County); $135. A wonder- World’s End 2008 Wavelength has cloying, candied blackberry and mocha fla- ful, rewarding blend that has enough blackberry, 88 Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard vors. —S.H. cassis and smoky oak flavors to satisfy hedonists, Syrah-Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley); $69. yet also shows the acid-tannic structure to This is a big, rich, thick young wine, impressive in Backhouse 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- develop bottle complexity over the years. Drink sheer fruity extraction. Shows massive blackberry, 82 gnon (California); $6. Gassy and this flashy wine now and through 2018. —S.H. currant, anise, black pepper and sandalwood fla- bubblegummy, like cheap , with can- vors, with a bit of funk. The tannins are strong died raspberries and cherries. —S.H. Carlisle 2008 Two Acres (Russian and refined. Could age well. Tasted three times, 92 River Valley); $43. The little vineyard, with inconsistent results. —S.H. Butterfield Station 2009 Cabernet on the east side of the valley, is 101 years old, and 82 Sauvignon (California); $8. Raw in was planted to a wide array of varieties, in the CUTT 2008 Fearless Red (Napa the mouth, with green tannins and bubblegum old Italian-American immigrant fashion. The 87 Valley); $38. Lots of exuberant fruit in flavors. It’s the kind of wine you’d drink from a wine is dry, complex and ageworthy. This ’08 is this stylish blend of Petite Sirah, Zin, Cab Sauvi- paper cup at a party. —S.H. deep in berry, spice, licorice and anise flavors, gnon and Petit Verdot. With its cherry candy and with a tang of minerals. It’s fresh, vibrant and sweet oak flavors, it carefully treads the line F.J. Serra 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- utterly distinctive. Will develop over the next between rustic and chic. Drink now. From Hun- 82 gnon (California); $18. Has enough decade. —S.H. nicutt. —S.H. berry and cherry flavors to get by, but it’s pretty rustic, with some sharp edges. —S.H. Krupp Brothers 2007 The Doctor Highway 12 2008 Merlot-Caber- 92 (Napa Valley); $60. An ambitious 87 net Sauvignon-Syrah-Petite Ver- Midnight Cellars 2006 Nebula blend of Merlot, Tempranillo, Malbec and dot Malbec (Sonoma County); $18. With 82 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Rob- Cabernet Sauvignon, grown mainly on Atlas its vibrant, primary fruit flavors and gritty tan- les); $24. Raw and common, with excessively Peak. It’s bone dry and locked down in tannins nins, it tastes like a wine to age, except that it sweet, jammy cherry-berry flavors and a bizarre and acidity, offering little relief, but there’s a won’t develop—it doesn’t have the overall bal- streak of acidity that tastes like it came from a potent core of blackberries and black currants ance. So give it a good airing, and enjoy the array box. —S.H. that yearns to bust through. Clearly well grown, it of blackberries, cherries, bacon and sweet oak could be an ager, but predictions are risky. —S.H. now. Pretty good price for a wine this interesting Stephen & Walker 2006 Cabernet and well-crafted. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 81 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain); Hess Collection 2007 19 Block $65. There are big problems with this Cabernet. 88 Cuvee (Mount Veeder); $36. This Longboard 2008 Point Blend It’s fruity and jammy-sweet, and also shows some Bordeaux-Syrah blend needs a brief decant to let 87 (North Coast); $21. This is a Syrah- fizziness, indicating instability. Tasted twice, with it blow off some mustiness. Then it turns rich and Bordeaux blend, with a splash of . It’s a consistent results. —S.H. fruity in berries, chocolate and spices. A little too rugged, rustic, appealing wine with some com- soft for ageability, so drink soon. —S.H. plex berry, cherry, leather, dark chocolate and spice flavors, and finishes bone dry and tannic. OTHER RED BLENDS Marimar Estate 2008 Don Miguel Good pasta wine. —S.H. 88 Vineyard Syrah-Tempranillo (Russ- Bennett Lane 2007 Maximus Red ian River Valley); $45. An ambitious wine that Muscardini 2008 Tesoro (Sonoma 94 Feasting Wine (Napa Valley); $35. explores new blending territory. Shows fine struc- 87 Valley); $47. This blend of Sangiovese,

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah had no problem achieving ripeness. It explodes in blackberry, CABERNET FRANC MERLOT cherry, chocolate, licorice, teriaki beef, black pep- per and sandalwood flavors that go on and on. White Cottage Ranch 2008 Estate Freemark Abbey 2008 Merlot The structure is a little too soft and weak to sup- 92 Cabernet Franc (Howell Moun- 94 (Napa Valley); $30. A very successful port all this weight, though. Drink now. —S.H. tain); $40. A tremendous Cabernet Franc that vintage for Freemark Abbey’s wines overall, and this young, intensely concentrated Merlot is a star shows the intensely concentrated fruit and con- Bargetto 2006 La Vita (Santa Cruz of the year. Quite tannic now, with delineated siderable tannins of Howell Mountain. Explosive Mountains); $60. Made from the Ital- blackberry, cherry, cassis, cola and spice flavors, 86 in cherries, cherry liqueur and red currants, yet ian varieties of Dolcetto, Refosco and Nebbiolo, its best years are ahead. Cellar this impressive for all the power, the wine has a dignified bal- wine for 4–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. this wine is very dry, tannic, acidic and extracted ance. A bit aggressive now. Give it 2–3 years to in blackberry and cherry jam and stewed prune calm down. —S.H. Bennett Lane 2007 Merlot (Napa flavors. It’s a rough, rustic wine that finishes a lit- Valley); $47. A good, rich red wine, tle hot. Needs rich meat stews to tame it. —S.H. 90 La Jota Vineyard 2007 Cabernet dry, soft and fruity. Shows ripe cherry, red licorice and bacon flavors, with a coating of Curtis 2007 Heritage Cuvée (Santa 90 Franc (Howell Mountain); $75. A sweet oak. Pretty and polished, a Merlot to Barbara County); $18. A good, dry big, vital, dramatic wine, one of the finest Cab 86 drink now. —S.H. southern Rhône-style blend, whose mouthfeel is Francs of the vintage. Dazzles with blackberry, as light and silky as a Pinot Noir. The raspberry, black cherry, mocha and spice flavors, wrapped Darioush 2007 Merlot (Napa Val- red currant, cola, herb and spice flavors are pleas- into thick but finely ground tannins, and enriched 90 ley); $46. Rich and extracted in sweet ant. —S.H. with smoky oak. Beautiful now and for the next cherry and blackberry tart filling, with sweet 4–5 years. —S.H. notes of caramelized oak. A lush, rewarding Mer- Pomar Junction 2008 Train Wreck lot perfect for drinking now and over the next 86 (Paso Robles); $48. A good, supple Courtney Benham 2008 Cabernet several years with its natural partner, a fine grilled red wine, made from an unusual blend of 85 Franc (Napa Valley); $19. A strongly steak. —S.H. Cabernet, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Mourvè- flavored, rustic wine, whose jagged tannins frame dre. It’s soft and fruity in raspberries, vanilla Kendall-Jackson 2008 Vintner’s jammy cherry, berry and mocha flavors. Drink and toast, and is slightly sweet. The alcohol is 90 Reserve Merlot (Sonoma County); now. —S.H. 15.5%. —S.H. $18. A fine, complex Merlot, appealing for its array of cherry, smoked meat, balsam, soy and Bogle 2007 Phantom (California); MALBEC pepper flavors. Shows lots of class and finesse for 85 $16. Lots of old vine grapes went into the price. Easy to find, with production of more the making of this Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and than 50,000 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Bota Box 2009 Malbec (Lodi); Mourvèdre blend. It’s intensely fruity and spicy, a clean wine to wash down barbecue and 88 $19/3L. In a recyclable box equalling White Cottage Ranch 2008 Estate Merlot (Howell Mountain); $40. burgers. —S.H. four normal-size wine bottles, this Malbec is a 90 A mighty fine deal, clean and refreshingly made wine of considerable power and impact. Feels explosive and weighty in the mouth, with mas- Stella Grey 2009 Red Wine (Napa with bright plum fruit, very easy drinking all sive cherry, berry and currant flavors that finish Valley); $23. A rough-and-ready, coun- around. Best Buy. —V.B. 85 hard and astringent. Shows its finesse in the qual- try-style blend for drinking with barbecue and ity of tannins and overall balance. An impressive similar fare. It’s dry, tannic and cherry-raspberry Sawbuck 2008 Malbec (Yolo Merlot that should develop some bottle charac- fruity, with a spicy finish. —S.H. 85 County); $10. At the price, a pretty teristics over the next 4–5 years. —S.H. satisfying Malbec that’s a little tight at first, with Colby 2009 Red Wine (California); dark stewy notes, but on balance good texture Rutherford Hill 2007 Merlot (Napa $13. Cabernet, Zinfandel, Shiraz, Mer- 84 and finish. It shows plum and black cherry flavors 89 Valley); $25. A fine Merlot from a win- lot and Petite Sirah comprise the blend on this integrated throughout and a touch of Yolo earth- ery with a very long track record of success with dry, tannic and rustic red wine. It’s an easy quaf- this difficult variety. The wine is rich and almost iness, too. Best Buy. —V.B. fer with spaghetti, burgers, barbecue and similar sweet in blackberries and cherries, yet it finishes fare. —S.H. dry, in a flourish of smooth tannins. Drink now. DeLorimier 2006 Malbec (Alexan- —S.H. Pomar Junction 2007 Brooster 84 der Valley); $24. Dry and earthy, with 81 Fighting Red (Paso Robles); $15. coffee, tobacco and cherry flavors, wrapped into Chelsea Goldschmidt 2009 Merlot Simple and a little vegetal, with asparagus and firm tannins. Strong acidity makes it a bit unbal- 88 (Dry Creek Valley); $15. Great price raspberry flavors. —S.H. anced. —S.H. on a Merlot this good. Most others would charge

WineMag.com | 59 BUYING I GUIDE

$25 or more, but Goldschmidt has held the line. A minor wine, dry, tannic and awkward, with modest Bella 2008 Two Patch Zinfandel It appeals for the soft tannins and easy flavors of cherry, cola and oak flavors. Okay for everyday drink- 90 (Alexander Valley); $38. Made from raspberries, cherries, cocoa and sweet, smoky ing, but not going anywhere. —S.H. two old-vine vineyards, this Zin is soft, high in oak. Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. alcohol, sweet in glycerine and fabulously rich in Smoking Loon 2009 Merlot (Cali- berry, chocolate, currant, licorice and dusty spice Martorana 2006 Merlot (Dry 84 fornia); $8. A little rough and common flavors. There’s nothing quite like it in the world. 88 Creek Valley); $33. Good blackberry, in the mouth, with jagged tannins and some Drink it now with lusty barbecue or, for some- black cherry, cola and spice flavors in this Merlot. green peppercorn flavors. But for the price, it’s thing different, Szechuan beef. —S.H. It’s marked by the jagged, sandpapery tannins fruity enough in raspberries and cherries, making that often accompany Dry Creek red wines. You it a good buy. Production was nearly 100,000 Stephen Ross 2007 Dante Dusi can call it rustic, but it’s rustic-chic, an interesting cases. Best Buy. —S.H. 90 Vineyard Zinfandel (Paso Robles); wine with some real complexity. —S.H. $30. A good, dry Zinfandel marked by flavors of R & B Cellars 2006 Metronome freshly crushed black pepper sprinkled over ripe Burgess 2007 Merlot (Napa Val- 83 Merlot (Napa County); $18. This crushed blackberry liqueur. The all-important 87 ley); $28. A bit rugged in texture, with Merlot is simple and candied in raspberry, cherry tannins give the richness a firm structure. The some jagged tannins, but the blackberry and and caramelized oak flavors. It’s pretty rustic, but wine is a little hot in alcohol, but barbecue and cherry fruit is just fine, and the finish is dry and basically sound. —S.H. richly sauced beef and chicken dishes will stand complex. Decant this young wine for a few hours up well. —S.H. to take the edge off. —S.H. Butterfield Station 2009 Merlot Haraszthy 2008 Zinfandel (Howell (California); $8. Raw and harsh in Wente 2007 Crane Ridge Merlot 81 Mountain); $25. green tannins, with bubblegum and raspberry 88 Rich and forward in (Livermore Valley); $20. A dusty, jammy black cherry, raspberry and spice flavors, 87 sour candy flavors. —S.H. well-integrated Merlot from one of Wente’s this Zinfandel drinks well now. It’s a tannic wine, estate properties, with plum, licorice and vanilla as you’d expect off Howell Mountain, but those most prominent on the palate and a touch of Ital- ZINFANDEL tannins are refined and sweet. Drink now with a ian spice, given the little bit of Barbera and San- nice steak. —S.H. giovese (also Petit Verdot) mixed in. —V.B. Tres Vinicultores 2008 The Indus- Ghost Pines 2009 Zinfandel (Cali- trial Zinfandel (Sonoma County); McIntyre Vineyards 2008 Kimberly 94 fornia); $20. A good, rugged Zinfan- $40. One of the best Zinfandels of the vintage. 87 Vineyard Merlot (Arroyo Seco); del, with wild berry, licorice and green 86 This wine is exuberant in wild berry, briary, bram- $19. Delicious in black cherry pie filling flavor, peppercorn flavors. It’s a hearty, very dry sipper bly nettle, cola, red currant, licorice and bacon with a smoky, spicy pie crust analog from oak. to drink with all manner of barbecue and spicy flavors, with Zin’s peppery spiciness. The alcohol That’s good, but the wine is excessively soft, lack- meat stews. The grapes are mostly from Sonoma is very high, so drink carefully, but that’s what it ing vital structure. —S.H. County. —S.H. took to make a wine this distinctive. —S.H. Alexander Valley Vineyards 2008 Lake Sonoma 2008 Zinfandel (Dry Bella 2008 Maple Vineyards Zin- Estate Merlot (Alexander Valley); Creek Valley); $18. Good price for a 85 fandel (Dry Creek Valley); $38. 87 $20. A good, somewhat rustic Merlot, with 92 Zin that offers plenty of pleasure. Grown in Zin- cherry liqueur, sweet tobacco and white pepper Unmistakably Zinfandel, and Dry Creek at that, friendly Dry Creek Valley, the wine is softly tan- flavors. Drink this pleasant wine now with a nice with its robust texture, firm tannins and briary, nic in cherry, blueberry, blackberry, currant, dark roast chicken. —S.H. brambly flavors of wild summer berries, choco- chocolate and black pepper flavors. —S.H. late-covered raisins, red licorice and cola, liber- Godwin 2004 Merlot (Sonoma ally spiced with black pepper. It’s a big, Redbone 2008 Zinfandel (Dry 85 Valley); $35. So ultraripe and fruity in voluptuous wine that never loses its sense of bal- 87 Creek Valley); $18. Here’s a lusty, blackberry and cherry jam, it’s almost sweet, an ance and harmony. Drink now. —S.H. fruity Zinfandel for washing down spare ribs and impression aided by caramelized oak. Beyond the similar meats slathered in sweet, spicy tomato flavor, the wine is fairly simple and direct. —S.H. Zichichi Family Vineyard 2008 sauce. It’s rich and ripe in berry fruit, pie spice 92 Estate Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry and smoky oak flavors. —S.H. Kenwood 2008 Merlot (Sonoma Creek Valley); $36. The vineyard of gnarled, 85 County); $14. Here’s an everyday Mer- very old vines is on a picturesque stretch of West Wilson 2008 Carl’s Vineyard Zin- lot for easy drinking with beef, pork and chicken Dry Creek Valley road, and the wine shows clas- 87 fandel (Dry Creek Valley); $32. This dishes. It’s soft, dry and tannic, with modest sic old vine characteristics. It’s enormously con- is one of those Dry Creek Zinfandels that’s soft, cherry and herb flavors. —S.H. centrated in berry liqueur, cassis, spice and sweet in raspberry and cherry, and high enough mineral flavors, and the finish is impressively dry. in alcohol that you can feel the heat as you swal- Kenwood 2008 Jack London Vine- The alcohol level is high, but that’s what it takes low. In other words, an ideal barbecue wine if 84 yard Merlot (Sonoma Valley); $22. to get a Zinfandel this ripe and delicious. —S.H. you don’t have to drive afterward. —S.H.

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Haraszthy 2008 Zinfandel soft in texture and explosively rich in tannins. Hess 2008 Allomi Petite Sirah 86 (Sonoma County); $20. A good, Extravagant in the essence of ripe summer black- 90 (Napa Valley); $36. Could almost be a rugged Zinfandel, tannic and spicy, with a rustic berries and cassis, with a meaty quality sur- Cabernet Sauvignon, with ripe, concentrated mouthfeel framing wild berry, currant, licorice, rounded by plenty of sweet, charred oak. Drink blackberry, cassis and mocha-choca flavors. The beef jerky and spice flavors. Drink now with spicy this robust beauty now with beef stews, barbe- tannins are strong, but very refined, in the Napa pork, beef and chicken dishes. —S.H. cued spareribs, or even dark chocolate. —S.H. style, and the wine shows a good bite of acidity. A fine example of this variety, and should age well Muscardini 2009 Monte Rosso Earthquake 2008 Petite Sirah for a very long time. —S.H. 86 Vineyard Zinfandel (Sonoma Val- 92 (Lodi); $26. Not for everyone, this is ley); $48. Fruity and easy to drink, but not a the kind of Petite Sirah Quentin Tarantino would R & B Cellars 2008 Pizzicato Petite good representation of this famous mountain make if he made wine—big, in your face and ulti- 88 Sirah (Napa Valley); $28. This fine vineyard, at this price. The wine is sweet and sim- mately a fine, bold wine full of intense black olive wine shows how well the variety grows in Napa ple in candied raspberries, blackberries, licorice tapenade, chocolate and tobacco, with a tannic, Valley. The tannins are lovely and refined, acidity and milk chocolate. Maybe it was released too peppery finish, a nod to its 22 months spent in is perfect, the finish is dry, the alcohol isn’t too early. Try cellaring for a couple years. —S.H. French oak. Juicy and meaty and able to age high, and the fruit flavors are ripe and accessible. another 5–7 years. Have some braised meat at That resolves most of the problems that plague Temptation 2009 Zinfandel (Cali- the ready. —V.B. Petite Sirah. Should develop bottle complexities 86 fornia); $14. Raspberry, toffee, cherry over the next several years. —S.H. pie and kirsch are the flavors of this lusty, pleas- Stephen & Walker 2009 Petite ing Zinfandal from Alexander Valley Vineyards. 92 Sirah (Dry Creek Valley); $46. Some Aratás 2008 Petite Sirah (Napa It’s spicy and fresh, a great barbecue and burger Petite Sirahs need serious time to come around, 87 Valley); $42. Shows the dark color, full- partner. —S.H. and this is one of them. Right now, it’s so strong bodied mouthfeel and big tannins of a good in primary fruit flavors, so jammy, so tannic and Petite Sirah, as well as massive blackberry, Wilson 2008 Zinfandel (Dry Creek rude, it practically slaps you across the face. It currant, mushu plum sauce and pepper steak 86 Valley); $26. Fans of high-octane Zins really wants a great deal of time to soften and flavors. Would score higher except for the will love this one from Dry Creek Valley. It’s as meld together. Try giving it at least eight years. acidity, which is high and noticeable, making soft and as sweet as a dessert wine in raspberry Cellar Selection. —S.H. the wine too tart. —S.H. tart, baked brown sugar and cinnamon spice fla- vors, yet is balanced with good tannins. —S.H. Coquerel Family Wine Estates Concannon 2007 Nina’s Cuvee 91 2008 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley); 87 Petite Sirah (Livermore Valley); R & B Cellars 2008 Zydeco Zinfan- $35. Inky black, hard in tannins, bone dry and $25. From one of Livermore’s oldest producers, 85 del (Napa Valley); $28. A little light- incredibly rich in smoked meat, blackberry, cassis a small-production Petite Sirah, one of their spe- bodied for a Zinfandel, with the silky texture of and pepper flavors, this is, in other words, classic cialties, all from an estate vineyard planted 40 Pinot Noir, but the flavors are strong and ripe. Petite Sirah. It’s brawny, but never loses its sense years ago, this wine is super dark purple in color, The raspberries and cherries have a roasted edge, of poise. Will develop in the bottle for 20 years. very earthy, with nice chocolate and delicate fruit like pie filling, while the finish is somewhat —S.H. interspersed among the dusty tannins. Pretty and sweet. —S.H. interesting. —V.B. Flying Horse Winery 2006 Petite Truchard 2008 Zinfandel 90 Sirah (Napa Valley); $35. There’s Venteux 2007 Petite Sirah (Paso 85 (Carneros); $25. As candied as a gra- some sweaty, funky stuff going on with this Petite 86 Robles); $36. Raw in acidity, giving it a nola health bar, this Zin has flavors of sugared Sirah, along with massive blackberry, currant and harshness that Petite Sirah’s natural tannins blackberries, roasted almonds, caramel and tobacco flavors. The tannins are big, furry and accentuate. It’s bone dry, with full-throttle black- chocolate. If you like your Zins a little sweet, it’s strong, and the finish is bone dry. Shows that berry and currant flavors. Needs rich fare, like for you. —S.H. slightly rustic “Pet” quality, but in an upscale short ribs, to balance it out. —S.H. Napa way. Now–2020. —S.H. Pomar Junction 2008 Pomar Junc- Wilson 2007 Ellie’s Vineyard Petite 82 tion Vineyard Zinfandel (Mon- Guglielmo 2007 Private Reserve 85 Sirah (Dry Creek Valley); $35. Few terey); $34. Simple and sweet, with raspberry, 90 Estate Grown Petite Sirah (Santa wines are as ripe and fruity as this. It’s explosive cherry and mint candy flavors. Drink now. —S.H. Clara Valley); $25. A dusty, plummy, dark in raspberry jam and cherry pie flavors, with berry pie Petite Sirah from old vines grown in scads of dusty pie spices, and the smooth tannins the Santa Clara Valley by the Guglielmo family, make it silky in the mouth. The problem is exces- PETITE SIRAH who have been based here since 1925. With lots sive sweetness. If you like a sugary, glyceriney of bittersweet chocolate, white pepper and well- edge to your red wines, it’s for you. —S.H. Bella 2008 Big River Ranch Petite integrated oak, this Petite is subtle, its alcohol 92 Sirah (Alexander Valley); $38. Clas- relatively low and its tannins quite refined, a Zichichi Family Vineyard 2007 sic Petite Sirah from a warm climate, inky black, Petite for French palates. —V.B. 85 Estate Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Val-

WineMag.com | 61 BUYING I GUIDE ley); $50. There’s an unripe streak that mars Bennett Lane 2007 Syrah (Napa Longboard 2007 Dakine Syrah this otherwise fine Petite Sirah, with its black- 92 Valley); $47. Soft and decadently deli- 90 (Russian River Valley); $45. Firmed berry fruit. It’s not just the black pepper, it’s a cious, this easy to like Syrah has flavors of cher- up with a little Zinfandel, Malbec, Petite Sirah, note of green tannins that’s pretty subtle, but it’s ries, bacon, mocha, black pepper and Carignane and Grenache, this full-bodied red wine there, and lowers the score. Hard to see the wine sandalwood. The tannins are pure Napa, velvety is delicious and complex. Bone dry, its bright acidity developing. —S.H. soft and complex. Drink now. —S.H. and freshly crushed pepper flavors highlight ripe cherry, raspberry, teriaki beef and toast flavors. Parducci 2007 Petite Sirah (Men- Exuberance 2007 Syrah (Sonoma Should age well for the midterm. —S.H. 83 docino County); $11. Dusty, tannic Valley); $49. Berries are the name of 91 Olson Ogden 2008 Stagecoach and simple. Still, juicy and pleasant enough, with the game in this rich, forward Syrah. Cherries, rasp- Vineyard Syrah (Napa Valley); a touch of bitterness on the finish. —V.B. berries, mulberries and spicier, gamier kinds of wild 90 $52. This might be a Syrah to stash in your cellar berries mark the flavors, which are lifted by sweet, for up to a decade. Right now, it’s jammy and Ursa 2006 Old Vines Reserve smoky oak. The mouthfeel is pure and velvety, cour- sweet in berries, currants, licorice and teriaki 82 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles); $30. tesy of ripely soft tannins. A fashionable wine to beef, and seems abrupt and rustic. But the tan- Too soft by far, with sugary sweet, medicinal drink now, especially with lamb. —S.H. cherry-berry flavors and a sharp cut of acidity. nins are fantastic, and the acidity is just fine. Give it a good five years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Tastes like an inexpensive Port. —S.H. MacLaren 2008 Dry Stack Vine- yard Syrah (Bennett Valley); $35. Ursa 2006 Petite Sirah (Paso Rob- 91 Bianchi 2006 Heritage Selection A classy Syrah that builds in real complexity, despite les); $22. 89 Syrah (Paso Robles); $18. Quite a 81 Soft, sweet and gluey. A hard the wine’s immediate drinkability. Dry and medium- wine to like despite rich raspberry and mocha fla- good wine, rich, full-bodied and succulent. Shows bodied, its smooth, plush tannins frame flavors of a wealth of blackberry, red currant, licorice, vors. —S.H. blackberries, cola, beef jerky, black pepper and bacon and black pepper flavors that finish with a smoky sandalwood. Ready now. —S.H. touch of heat. The winery actually has lowered SYRAH the price on this wine from previous vintages, White Oak 2006 Syrah (Napa Val- which makes it a good value. —S.H. ley); $26. A big, dry, immature wine, Aril 2008 Syrah (Atlas Peak); $45. 91 firm in acids and tannins, whose strong black Exuberance 2006 Syrah (Sonoma Atlas Peak’s reputation for Syrah can only 93 pepper notes add to its tart pungency. Under- Valley); $40. A little soft, but delicious grow as a result of this wine. It shows the mas- 89 neath all that are immaculate blackberry and and complex. It has waves of raspberry, cherry, sively dense fruit and firm mountain tannins of roasted meat flavors. Impressive for the price, sweet cola, red licorice and oaky cedar flavors, the appellation, as well as the ageability of Atlas and should develop bottle complexity over the with a spicy edge of smoked meat, like cured Peak Cabernet Sauvignon, with which this Syrah next six years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. salumi. Feels elegant, although it lacks the struc- could easily be confused. It has the blackberries ture for aging, so drink now. —S.H. and cherries and cassis, but that peppery, beef Arrowood 2008 Saralee’s Vine- jerky sweetness is perhaps the giveaway. Cellar yard Syrah (Russian River Valley); Muscardini 2008 Unti Vineyards until at least 2014. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 90 $40. Bone dry, fruity and tannic, this pleasant 89 Syrah (Dry Creek Valley); $38. Feels lush and extravagant in the mouth, a full- Gamble Family Vineyards 2006 Syrah has complex flavors of berries, cherries, bodied wine with smooth tannins housing power- Old Vine Syrah (St. Helena); $36. grilled meat, pepper and smoky oak. Substantial 93 house black cherry, bacon, black pepper and oaky in body, if a bit tough and astringent in tannins. Meaty and leathery, with sweet, salty bacon notes sandalwood flavors. Give it a bit more structural Needs rich meats and cheeses. Could even meshing with intense wild blackberry fruit, this integrity, and the score would soar. —S.H. Syrah is delicious and sexy. The tannins are won- improve in the cellar for a few years. —S.H. derfully plush and refined, like satin. It’s perfect Olson Ogden 2008 Unti Vineyard Fleming Jenkins 2008 Madden to drink now with short ribs of beef or any kind of Syrah (Dry Creek Valley); $38. Ranch Syrah (Livermore Valley); 87 beef or lamb stew. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 90 Rich, soft and creamy, with flamboyantly ripe $40. A nicely done microscopic-production raspberry and cherry pie filling, vanilla, roasted Aril 2008 Syrah (Napa Valley); $45. Syrah out of Livermore Valley’s Madden Ranch, almond, honey and cinnamon spice flavors. 92 An interesting wine that needs time to the source for many a Syrah, not always so deli- Tastes like a granola fruit bar in wine form, with a resolve its internal conflicts. At less than three ciously rendered. Winemaker Greg Jenkins (wife pleasantly hot hit of alcohol. Drink now. —S.H. years, it’s jammy, almost candied in raspberry and and partner is Olympian Peggy Fleming) works cherry fruit, sprinkled with freshly ground pepper with a variety of grape sources from his historic Peter Cellars 2006 Syrah (Sonoma and with a trace of beef jerky. Yet such is the Novitiate Winery in Los Gatos, using John Mad- 87 Valley); $20. Here’s a smooth, easy- acid-tannin framework that the wine could sur- den’s hillside vineyard fruit in this case to make drinking Syrah that shows plenty of class. The prise with extended cellaring. Try after 2014. an intense wine full of cassis, vanilla, anise and blackberry, beef teriyaki, black pepper and Cellar Selection. —S.H. chocolate. —V.B. leather flavors are brightened with acidity,

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 while a touch of new oak adds some nice wine, which shows aromas of asparagus and broc- and finishing long and spicy. A shame to drink smokiness. —S.H. coli. Tastes somewhat better than it smells, with now. Should develop bottle complexity over the blackberry and black cherry notes. —S.H. next 6–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Alexander Valley Vineyards 2008 86 Estate Syrah (Alexander Valley); Hanzell 2007 Ambassador’s 1953 $20. Give a good shot of air in a to this GRENACHE 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Val- Syrah before you pour it. Fresh out of the bottle, ley); $145. Hews to the Hanzell style, which is it’s all candied cherry and black raspberry fruit. Venteux 2008 Grenache (Paso almost old-fashioned in this age of ripely opulent Oxygen will help soften it and bring out earthy, 86 Robles); $32. Don’t demand complex- Pinot Noirs. This one’s tight as a drum in tannins herbal complexities. —S.H. ity from this Grenache, just enjoy its fruity rich- and acids, a quivery, nervously wound wine. Yet ness with a grilled steak, lamb chop or even it’s quite rich and complex, with a tapestry of Burgess 2007 Syrah (Napa Valley); roasted salmon. It’s as silky and light as a Pinot cherry, red licorice, tobacco, Canadian bacon, 86 $28. Oak dominates this wine, with so Noir, and the flavors are pure cherry pie filling dusty Indian spice and buttered toast flavors. much smoky caramel that it’s hard to appreciate and cola. Easy to drink and pleasantly dry. —S.H. Needs 7–8 years in the cellar, and, based on tast- the underlying fruit. Too bad, because the black- ings of very old Hanzell, should slowly unfold berry and mocha flavors seem fine, and the tan- Curtis 2007 Grenache (Santa Ynez through the 2020s. Cellar Selection. —S.H. nins are rich and ripe. —S.H. 82 Valley); $25. A difficult wine to like. It’s not quite ripe, giving a vegetal edge to the La Crema 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian Arns 2006 Syrah (Napa Valley); modest cherry flavors, and is cuttingly sharp in 93 River Valley); $40. This dramatically 85 $50. Some pruny overripeness shows up acids. —S.H. constructed Pinot wants time in the cellar. It’s in this Syrah, while masses of sweetly charred oak dry, full-bodied and tannic, with bigtime cherry, give a candied taste. Although the wine is techni- black raspberry, teriyaki beef and black pepper cally dry, it’s a bit clumsy. Give it a good decant PINOT NOIR flavors, compounded with rich, smoky oak. The and drink now. —S.H. acidity is so acute, it will easily shepherd this wine Marimar Estate 2008 Chico’s Run through 5–7 years of bottle aging. Cellar Selec- Carmel Hills Winery 2009 Syrah 95 Doña Margarita Vineyard Pinot tion. —S.H. 85 (Monterey County); $35. Good, rich Noir (Sonoma Coast); $49. A very successful blackberry, black pepper, red licorice, bacon and Pinot Noir that shows the splendid characteristics Stephen Ross 2007 Stone Corral sandalwood flavors in this dark, dry, tannic wine. of grapes well grown in the far Sonoma Coast, 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Edna Valley); The acidity is strong, though, giving the wine a on famed Goldridge soils. Acidity marks it, crisp $50. A very rich, complex Pinot Noir worthy of bite. Drink now. —S.H. and vital and nervy. Yet wrapped into the silky consideration for a fine cellar. It’s dry, silky and mouthfeel are rich, elaborate cherry, raspberry, tannic, with massive black cherry, pomegranate, Hudson Vineyards 2008 Syrah Dr. Pepper cola, pomegranate, persimmon and cola and sandalwood flavors, although that just 85 (Los Carneros); $90. Feels thick and sandalwood flavors that are intricate as a tapestry. begins to describe everything that’s going on. syrupy, lacking structure, and tastes soft and A great wine that should develop bottle complex- Feels important, but young. Give it three years. jammy, with strong flavors of cherries and black ities over the next eight years. —S.H. Cellar Selection. —S.H. raspberries. Could do something down the road, but it’s awkward now. Tasted twice, with consis- Testarossa 2009 Doctor’s Vineyard Stephen Ross 2008 Bien Nacido tent results. —S.H. 95 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- 93 Vineyards Pinot Noir (Santa Maria lands); $56. So delicious, so dazzlingly seduc- Valley); $38. A stunningly delicious Pinot Noir, Smoking Loon 2008 Syrah (Cali- tive, it’s impossible not to fall in love with this opulent in raspberry, cherry, red currant, red 84 fornia); $8. Good raspberry, cherry and wine. It detonates on the palate with an explosion licorice, cola and beef jerky flavors. Impossible chocolate flavors in this dry wine, with hints of of cherries and raspberries, and wonderfully not to be impressed by the richness, yet the tan- pepper and beef jerky. The tannins are a bit sharp smoky, buttery complexities from oak. Drily crisp nin-acid structure is wonderful and bracing. and green, but it’s pretty good for the price. Best and finely structured in smooth, dense tannins, it Doesn’t seem likely to age well, so drink now. — Buy. —S.H. offers great pleasure now, and should develop S.H. over the next 6–8 years. Production was low, but Presqu’ile 2008 Syrah (Santa it’s worth a search. —S.H. Testarossa 2009 Sierra Madre 83 Maria Valley); $35. Shows little of the 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria structure or finesse you expect from a Santa Benziger 2008 de Coelo Terra Valley); $59. Really delicious, a sweet, spicy, Maria wine. Instead, it’s soft and fruity to the 94 Neuma Vineyard Pinot Noir fruity wine that’s like biting into a raspberry, point of overripe, with jammy berry and pepper (Sonoma Coast); $69. A very refined Pinot roasted almond, vanilla and cinnamon granola flavors that veer into stewed prunes. —S.H. Noir, high-toned and elegant, with alcohol well candy bar. That’s no insult. The wine is dry and below 14%. There’s no lack of richness. The wine wonderfully rich in smooth tannins, and enor- Venteux 2007 Syrah (Paso Rob- bursts with cherries, rhubarbs, pomegranates, mously complex. Worthy of very fine steak, lamb, 82 les); $46. Too much unripeness in this cola and raspberries, wrapped into a silky texture, tuna and salmon entrees. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 63 BUYING I GUIDE

Testarossa 2009 Sleepy Hollow pomegranates and earthier notes of mushrooms nins, acidity and jammy raspberries, cherries and 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia and dried herbs. Lots of terroir in this fine wine, cola. Tastes simple and candied now, but if you Highlands); $59. Although this Pinot is capti- which will take a few years of bottle age. Edi- give it a year or two, it should start to come vatingly rich in raspberry and cherry pie filling, tors’ Choice. —S.H. around. Cellar Selection. —S.H. red currant and Dr. Pepper cola flavors, it also has fine acidity and smooth, complex tannins, and Patz & Hall 2008 Pisoni Vineyard Clos Pegase 2008 Mitsuko’s Vine- a lovely overlay of sweet, smoky oak. Good as it is, 92 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- 90 yard Pinot Noir (Carneros); $35. there’s no reason why it shouldn’t develop bottle lands); $80. Showing an enormous blast of Quite a nice Pinot Noir and in fact the winery’s complexity over the next six years. —S.H. cherries and raspberries, this Pinot is saved from best in a number of years. It’s marked by exqui- being a fruit bomb by earthy, mushroomy com- site raspberry, cola, red licorice and sandalwood Thorne 2007 Rio Vista Vineyard plexities and a hit of acidity that makes the mouth flavors. The most notable thing, however, is the 93 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $36. water. It’s way too young now, and should easily acidity, which is rather strong. —S.H. Made in an exceptionally ripe manner, this take 5–7 years in the cellar to come around. Cel- Pinot brims with cherry and raspberry pie fill- lar Selection. —S.H. Ken Brown 2007 Clos Pepe Vine- ing fruit that’s so rich, it’s almost like a dessert, 90 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); except the finish is dry. Oak adds delicious Stephen Ross 2008 Chorro Creek $50. Tastes a bit candied and direct now in rasp- complications of sweet, caramelized vanilla 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Luis berry, cherry, vanilla and spice flavors, although and char. This is quite a good wine, but it’s a Obispo County); $38. A really nice Pinot it’s dry, with fine, balancing acidity. Good, and little on the young side. Give it 2–3 years to Noir, rich and silky, with gentle tannins and fine, rich and succulent, but needs time. Should begin to come around. —S.H. crisp acidity. It’s delicately structured, but power- develop bottle complexity over the next 4–6 ful in raspberry, rosehip tea, vanilla, spice and years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Benziger 2008 de Coelo Quintus sandalwood flavors. An upscale wine that gets 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma better as it breathes in the glass. —S.H. La Crema 2009 Pinot Noir Coast); $69. Tight, acidic and dry in youth, this 90 (Sonoma Coast); $25. Rich berry- Pinot has a don’t-drink-me-now austerity. It Hanzell 2007 Pinot Noir (Sonoma cherry, cola and raspberry fruit flavors mark this resists efforts to break it down at every point. 91 Valley); $95. Shows the dry tannins young wine. It’s dry and stylishly elegant, and However, it seems well able to age, given the bal- and astringency of youthful Hanzell, but these shows a certain aloof complexity. Almost rustic in ance, and the wealth of cherry, pomegranate, per- Pinot Noirs are famously capable of extended scoury acidity and tannins, but it could develop simmon and rhubarb fruit. Cellar this fine wine aging. Tastes almost rustic now, with a deep core bottle finesse in another 2–3 years. —S.H. until at least 2014. Cellar Selection. —S.H. of cherries and cola. The oak is unintegrated, fur- ther accentuating the wine’s immaturity. Needs McIntyre Vineyards 2008 Estate Bruliam 2009 Doctor’s Vineyard time. Better after 2013, and should develop for 90 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- 92 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- an additional decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. lands); $38. Inky dark, full-bodied, dry and, in a lands); $52. The high score reflects the wine’s word, huge. That’s this Pinot, which shows typical potential, because it has been put on the market Bernardus 2008 Pinot Noir (Mon- Santa Lucia power. Densely concentrated in before it’s ready to be opened. Fresh and zippy in 90 terey County); $20. Great price for a raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit, it’s strong acidity, its flavors are of raspberry and cherry pie dry, crisply elegant Pinot Noir of this sophistica- in tannins, but they’re velvety soft. An interesting filling, while sweet, caramelized oak has not yet tion. It’s made in a lighter style, with a silky wine, not particularly Pinot-esque, but delicious been integrated. Cellar it for a year or two, even mouthfeel and interesting, complex cherry pulp and possibly ageworthy. —S.H. longer. It should be quite a beautiful wine by the and cherry skin, cola and pomegranate flavors. end of 2012. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. McIntyre Vineyards 2007 Mission 90 Ranch Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco); Ken Brown 2008 Cargasacchi Bruliam 2009 Split Rock Vineyard $36. This little appellation in the Salinas Valley is 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 90 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $52. on an upswing with Pinot Noir, as evidenced by Hills); $50. A big, juicy Pinot Noir, rich and Seems rushed to market. The wine is still rough, this fine bottling. It’s rich, as you’d expect from opulent, with flavors ranging from cherry pie and and tannic and acidic, with fresh raspberry and the perfect 2007 vintage, and well balanced, with bacon through Dr. Pepper cola to the most suc- cherry fruit flavors overlaid with sweet oak. Quite the cherry, raspberry, cola and spice flavors culent, meaty heirloom tomato you ever had. good and distinguished, but if you buy it, stash it bracketed by crisp acidity and smooth tannins. Exotically spicy and complex, and the overall in the cellar until sometime in 2012 or even 2013. Probably not an ager, but a wine to watch. —S.H. result is delicious. Fine now and for the next 4–6 Cellar Selection. —S.H. years. —S.H. Morgan 2008 Tondre Grapefield Bruliam 2009 Hayley Vineyard 90 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- La Crema 2009 Pinot Noir (Mon- 90 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $52. lands); $48. Pinots from this vineyard always 92 terey); $24. A rich, vital, complex Pinot It’s a shame this young wine was released well are full-bodied, tannic and high in acidity, with Noir. Completely dry, with a savory scour of acid- before it’s anywhere near ready to be consumed. deep, extractedly ripe berry and cherry flavors. ity, it treads a fine line between ripe cherries and But it was, with the result that it’s all fresh tan- The danger is that this big style can become so

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 exaggerated as to be clumsy, but Morgan always crisp, if a little one-dimensional. But it’s a really Valley); $55. Fruity extract marks this big fla- finds a way to keep the power in check. Cellar for nice dimension. Drink now. —S.H. vored, jammy wine, brimming with raspberries 4–5 years, or give it a good long decant if you and cherries. It shows a modern approach to drink now. —S.H. Stephen Ross 2007 Aubaine Vine- grapegrowing and winemaking, designed to sat- 88 yards Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo isfy palates, but it could use some old-fashioned Testarossa 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa County); $42. A brisk young Pinot Noir, dry complexity. Might develop in the bottle over the 90 Lucia Highlands); $39. Lots of bright, and bright in acidity, with deep, long raspberry, next 3–5 years. —S.H. savory raspberry, cherry, cola, vanilla, sandalwood cherry, cola, spice and sandalwood flavors. The and spice flavors in this drily delicious Pinot. It’s tannins are just a bit rustic, so drink this wine Peter Cellars 2007 Pinot Noir so easy to enjoy glass after glass with a good steak now and over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. 87 (Sonoma Coast); $27. A pretty Pinot, or chop. Drink now for freshness. —S.H. dry, crisp and silky. It shows polished raspberry Testarossa 2009 Graham Family and cherry tart, cola and spicy pomegranate fla- Hanzell 2008 Sebella Pinot Noir 88 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River vors, framed in sweet, toasty oak. Drink now. — 89 (Sonoma Valley); $42. This Pinot, Valley); $56. A little gritty in texture, and the S.H. which was grown on the Hanzell estate, is rawness is compounded by black pepper tartness. described by the winery as a barrel selection Yet there’s a huge, succulent core of black cherry Peters Family 2007 Sonoma Stage made to drink now. Yet it shows tight tannins and fruit, and the wine is perfectly dry and acidic. An 87 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $49. an astringency that effectively masks the ripe interesting Pinot, one to stash in the cellar and A little tough and gritty around cherry and pomegranate fruit flavors. You’re bet- see what happens. —S.H. the edges, a rustic wine rich in extracted cherry ter off cellaring this wine for a few years. —S.H. and blackberry jam flavors. Plenty of strong tan- Truchard 2008 Pinot Noir nins and zippy acidity too. Feels unresolved, and Morgan 2008 Gary’s Vineyard 88 (Carneros); $35. This is a sound, the question is whether cellaring will result in Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- pleasant Pinot Noir, a little rugged and gritty in improvement. Try after 2012. —S.H. 89 the mouth, but dry enough, with a silky texture. It lands); $48. A little heavy-handed, with chunky has interesting cherry, cola, rhubarb and sandal- Presqu’ile 2009 Rim Rock Vineyard tannins, penetrating acidity and a powerful blast wood flavors. Drink now–2013. —S.H. Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo of jammy raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit. 87 County); $55. Tastes a little simple and can- Not particularly subtle, but dramatic, and while Carmel Hills Winery 2009 Pinot died, but it’s so delicious, you can hardly stop sip- purists will find it oversized, it’s a true expression Noir (Monterey County); $45. ping. Rich and ripe in cherry and raspberry of this central Santa Lucia Highlands vineyard. 87 Here’s a good, rugged Pinot Noir for drinking Lifesaver fruit and pie filling, with plenty of sweet Give it 4–6 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. now. It’s dry and fruity, offering up exuberant vanilla and spice. Drink now. —S.H. —S.H. cherry and raspberry flavors. The all-impor- tant mouthfeel is silky, if a bit jagged in tan- Stephen Ross 2009 Pinot Noir The Mountain Winery 2008 Estate nins. —S.H. (Central Coast); $24. Young and fresh Pinot Noir (California); $45. The 87 89 in acids, with jammy raspberry, cherry and san- grapes come from the estate vineyard in the La Crema 2008 Nine Barrel Pinot dalwood flavors, this Pinot is for drinking now. Santa Cruz Mountains. The wine shows intense 87 Noir (Russian River Valley); $90. A It’s modest in alcohol and thoroughly dry. —S.H. raspberry, cherry, persimmon and cola flavors, problematic wine, especially considering the heightened by crisp, stimulating acidity. It’s price. It’s dark in color, quite tannic and bone dry, Stephen Ross 2008 Pinot Noir immature, though, being direct and not very sub- with powerful cherry and cola flavors, liberally 87 (Edna Valley); $32. A solid Pinot for tle. You might want to age it for 3–4 years. These accented with smoky oak. Has all the hallmarks of drinking now, this polished young wine shows the mountain Pinots often can take the cellar. —S.H. an ageable young Pinot Noir, but there’s a stub- bright acidity, dryness and pure fruit associated bornly unripe streak of green peppercorn all the with the Edna Valley. Lovely cherry pie flavors, Ken Brown 2007 Pinot Noir (Sta. way through. Difficult and risky to predict where with the smoky sweet crust, and marvelous pie 88 Rita Hills); $38. This is an easy drink- this wine is going. —S.H. spices. —S.H. ing, soft and attractive Pinot Noir that’s fully ready now. It’s dry and smooth, with a complex of Martin Ray 2009 Reserve Pinot Testarossa 2009 Henry’s Blend cherry, raspberry, cola, herb, oak and spice fla- 87 Noir (Los Carneros); $30. A little 87 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara vors. Great with Mexican carne asada. —S.H. tough and gritty in acids and some uneven, green County); $25. A little short in the finish and minty tannins, but there’s a lot of cherry and rasp- acidic, with some green, minty flavors. But there’s Patz & Hall 2008 Gap’s Crown berry flavor, and the finish is silky and long. Earns enough raspberry and cherry fruit to satisfy, and 88 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma an extra point for the depth of fruit. Drink now. the wine shows the balance and elegance associ- Coast); $70. Tons of fruit in this easy, direct —S.H. ated with any Testarossa Pinot Noir. —S.H. Pinot Noir. Raspberry, cherry, pomegranate, per- simmon and cola begins to describe it, further Patz & Hall 2008 Chenoweth Angeline 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir sweetened by smoky, caramelized oak. Rich and 87 Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River 86 (Sonoma County); $18. Here’s a

WineMag.com | 65 BUYING I GUIDE good, simple Pinot Noir with some extra qualities Stephen & Walker 2009 Pinot Noir Benziger 2008 San Remo Vineyard to recommend it. It’s dryish and silky, with rich 86 (Sonoma Coast); $46. Fruity and 84 Signaterra Pinot Noir (Russian raspberry, cherry, vanilla and smoky oak flavors, sweet in raspberry and cherry jam and cola fla- River Valley); $49. A hard wine to like. It’s brightened by fine acidity. —S.H. vors, with pie spices, this Pinot had no problems very dry and somewhat overripe, with a pruny, getting ripe. It has good acidity to balance the raisiny edge, and the acidity sticks out in a harsh Aquinas 2009 Pinot Noir (Napa richness, but is somewhat simple, lacking the way. This also is the highest alcohol wine of Ben- 86 Valley); $19. Lots going on in this subtle elegance you want in an expensive Pinot ziger’s trio of 2008 Pinot Noirs, and it feels hot in under-$20 Pinot. Made from Carneros and Noir. —S.H. an unbalanced way. —S.H. southern Napa grapes, it’s a dry, crisply acidic Courtney Benham 2009 Pinot Noir Presqu’ile 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa and delicately structured wine, with raspberry, (Sonoma County); $16. A good Maria Valley); $42. Simple and fruity, cherry and cola flavors, discretely touched 85 84 starter Pinot, if you’re just learning about the with candied, pie filling raspberry and cherry fla- with oak. —S.H. variety. It’s properly dry and silky, with red cherry, vors. Lots of acidity, too. An everyday Pinot lack- Carmel Hills Winery 2009 Hidden Dr. Pepper cola and spice flavors. —S.H. ing layers of complexity. —S.H. Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mon- 86 Dutch Henry Winery 2009 Pinot terey County); $35. Almost as pale in color as Noir (Mount Veeder); $48. Dry and SANGIOVESE a rosé, this Pinot has a light, silky mouthfeel. It’s 85 thin, with diluted cherry flavors. Oak fortunately forward and pleasant in raspberry and cherry fla- adds needed vanilla and smoky char richness. DeLorimier 2006 Sangiovese vors, kissed with a bit of oak. Drink now. —S.H. The lack of fruity concentration accentuates the 87 (Alexander Valley); $29. It’s unheard alcohol and acidity. Drink now. —S.H. of for a winery to hold back a Sangiovese for Cru Vin Dogs 2007 Maboroshi more than four years before releasing it, but 86 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Kendall-Jackson 2009 Vintner’s DeLorimier did. It’s done the wine well, allowing Valley); $45. A little sharp and awkward in the 85 Reserve Pinot Noir (California); it to soften and mellow. It’s still quite acidic, and a mouth, with some green flavors leading to a tart $18. Starts off a bit green and stemmy in aroma, little rustic as California Sangiovese tends to be, finish. There are enough berry, cherry and oak and in the mouth, tannins overwhelm the cherry- but there’s a lot of deliciousness. Try as an inter- flavors to make the wine interesting. Shows a berry fruit. Good and dry, but a bit underripe and esting alternative to Pinot Noir. —S.H. classy dryness, but doesn’t seem to have the bal- simple. Drink now. —S.H. ance to age. Drink up. —S.H. Muscardini 2008 Monte Rosso Presqu’ile 2009 Presqu’ile Vine- 82 Vineyard Sangiovese (Sonoma La Crema 2009 Pinot Noir (Ander- 85 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val- Valley); $40. An awkward wine, high in acidity 86 son Valley); $50. Marred by a green ley); $55. Simple, soft and fruity-sweet in and sugary sweet in candied cherry and raspberry peppercorn unripeness that makes the tannins cherries and raspberries, like the spicy filling in a flavors that veer into Port. Tasty, but rustic. especially difficult and dry. Hard to fall in love pie. A direct wine to drink now. —S.H. Ready now. —S.H. with, despite some good black cherry, plum and cola flavors. The chilly vintage seems to have Smoking Loon 2009 Pinot Noir (California); $8. worked against this wine. —S.H. 85 One of the best OTHER RED WINES under-$10 Pinots in California. It’s dry and silky, Patz & Hall 2008 Hyde Vineyard with raspberry, cola, cinnamon, clove and vanilla Peltier Station 2006 Reserve flavors. A good wine to introduce novices to the Teroldego (Lodi); $30. Deep and Pinot Noir (Carneros); $65. Lots of 88 86 beauties of Pinot Noir. Best Buy. —S.H. dark in color, this unusual Lodi bottling of good, rich cherry fruit in this Pinot, overlaid with Teroldego, an ancient Italian variety akin to Cali- oak. But there’s something off. High alcohol gives Sonoma-Loeb 2009 Pinot Noir fornia Zinfandel, is a beast of rich red fruit and it an awkward heat. It is very difficult to imagine (Russian River Valley); $35. Fruity chocolate mocha, still robustly tannic and a tad this wine aging. —S.H. 85 and simple, with a bubblegummy sweetness to smoky, able to definitely lie down in darkness for the raspberries and cherries. Pleasant rather than several more years. Cellar Selection. —V.B. Stephen & Walker 2008 Pinot Noir complex, and not likely an ager. —S.H. 86 (Sonoma Coast); $46. This is a very Calcareous 2008 Grenache- big, powerfully extracted Pinot Noir. It is not cur- Bargetto 2008 Regan Vineyards 84 Mourvèdre (Paso Robles); $38. rently showing much varietal character. Feels like 84 Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Ridiculously high in alcohol, clocking in at nearly it was made by someone who knows how to make Mountains); $40. Too much acidity in this dry 16%, and it shows in a porty taste that frames the Cabernet, and brings that mindset to Pinot. The wine, making it almost sour. Yet it has an enor- blackberry jam and chocolate flavors. Drink now. wine is full-bodied, thick, heavy and enormously mous core of red and black cherry fruit, with a —S.H. concentrated in raspberries and cherries. Could tasteful application of smoky oak, and a lovely, change over time, but there’s not much point in silky texture. Seems too unbalanced to age, so Venteux 2008 Mourvèdre (Paso aging it. —S.H. drink up. —S.H. 84 Robles); $32. An atypical Mourvèdre ,

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 more like a warm-climate Pinot Noir with its Testarossa 2009 Diana’s Chardon- Suacci Carciere Wines 2008 Heintz light-bodied silkiness. Crisp acidity frames red 94 nay (California); $55. Diana’s is Tes- 93 Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian cherry and cola flavors, leading to a dry, spicy fin- tarossa’s best barrel blend from its various River Valley); $45. Another beautiful ish. Drink now. —S.H. vineyards from around the coast, hence the Cali- Chardonnay from this fine vineyard and winery. fornia appellation. It’s certainly ultrarich, almost The wine is drier than past vintages, but rich in decadent, with the apricot, pear and honey acidity and minerals, with a complex array of ROSÉ sweetness of a late-harvest dessert wine. Yet its pineapple, lime and Meyer lemon citrus flavor. thoroughly dry, and finishes with clean, miner- Fermenting half the wine in stainless steel and Hey Mambo 2009 Kinky Pink Rosé ally acidity. Deserves its reserve-level price. — the balance in oak, a third of which was new, 85 (California); $12. Made from Pinot S.H. seems to be the perfect approach. —S.H. Noir, this is a darkly colored, strongly flavored Hanzell 2007 Chardonnay Testarossa 2009 Sierra Madre rosé. It has flavors of sugared raspberry tea, (Sonoma Valley); $70. A great Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa sprinkled with orange zest, cocoa and cinnamon. 93 93 Hanzell Chardonnay, which means you don’t Maria Valley); $39. There's lots of sweet, Easy to like and to drink. —S.H. want to drink it now. Dry and acidic, it’s an aloof smoky oak on this Chardonnay, with caramel young wine whose minerality gives it a tough tang and buttered toast flavors, but the underlying of steel despite a heart of citrus fruit. Give it 5–6 fruit is so massive, it easily handles that CALIFORNIA years in a good cellar, and it will develop interest- weight. Explodes in ripe pineapple and peach ingly beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. jam flavors, balanced with crisp acidity, like a WHITE WINES squirt of lime. A really good wine for drinking CHARDONNAY Joseph Carr 2008 Reserve now with serious fare. —S.H. 93 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); $23. Big and flamboyant, an impressive Chardonnay Testarossa 2009 Bien Nacido Vine- Migration 2009 Charles Heintz whose flavors are explosive. Tangerines, blood 93 yard Chardonnay (Santa Maria 95 Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma oranges and tropical fruits are massively enriched Valley); $39. Just delicious. Superrich in Coast); $55. Spectactular Chardonnay, so pure, by sweet oak. Coastal acidity provides a fine, min- pineapple, white peach and sweet lemon pie clean and delicious. Defines the cool coastal cli- erally backbone. A complex, delicious wine. fruit, with crème brûlée and buttered toast com- mate of the Sonoma Coast, with brilliant, citrusy Don’t drink it too cold. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. plexities, its opulence is balanced by crisp acidity. acidity brightening long hangtime flavors of trop- The finish turns unexpectedly dry and clean. Very ical fruits, green apples and succulent peaches La Crema 2009 Chardonnay fine, a wonderfully grown wine from this great and pears. A stunningly good, upscale Chard to 93 (Sonoma Coast); $22. Rich and unc- vineyard. —S.H. drink with very rich fare, such as ricotta cheese- tuous, with a viscous, glyceriney texture holding filled gnocchi with grilled rock shrimp and deep, opulent flavors of pineapples, lime custard, The Mountain Winery 2008 Estate Parmesan cheese. —S.H. clover honey, Mandarin orange and cinnamon 93 Chardonnay (California); $39. It's spice. Lees treatment brings a creamy, slightly very good, with deep, delicious flavors of tropical Hanzell 2007 Ambassador’s 1953 sourdough tang. Good price for a Chardonnay of fruits, minerals and vanilla, accented with elabo- 94 Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma this quality. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. rate oak and brightened with crisp acidity. Pro- Valley); $130. Shows the dryness, acidity and duction was a low 223 cases, but it’s worth a tightly wound minerality of all Hanzell’s young Matanzas Creek 2009 Chardonnay search. —S.H. (Bennett Valley); $40. Chardonnays, but with a depth of citrus and apri- 93 A big, oaky Chardonnay, obviously rich and dense, but some- Thomas Fogarty 2007 Damiana cot fruit that marks it as a reserve. It really war- what immature. Just doesn’t feel like all the parts Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Moun- rants time in the cellar. Best after 2013, and 93 are working in harmony quite yet. Yet there’s lots tains); $48. This food-friendly Chardonnay is should develop for several more years. Cellar going on under the dryness, lees and wood tan- California’s equivalent of great Chablis. It’s totally Selection. —S.H. nins. Huge flavors of citrus and tropical fruits, dry and high in acidity, with elegantly structured minerals and flowers. Flashy, a crowd-pleaser. flavors of citrus fruits, white peaches, apricots, Migration 2009 Split Rail Vineyard Give it 2–3 years in a cool cellar. —S.H. minerals and yeasty lees. Give it a good decant, Chardonnay (Anderson Valley); 94 and don’t serve too cold. —S.H. $45. This Chardonnay is defined by structural Stonestreet 2009 Gravel Bench qualities, such as linearity and angularity. This is 93 Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); Hanzell 2008 Chardonnay due to the joining of its minerality with acidity. $55. Full-throttle Chardonnay, creamy and opu- 92 (Sonoma Valley); $70. Lots of fresh, It’s a very elegant, drily austere wine, yet rich in lent, showing lemon custard, orange honey, but- zingy acidity in this dry, young Chardonnay, and grilled pineapple and buttered toast flavors. tered toast and cinnamon spice flavors, the steely minerality gives it a tang of cold metal. Should blossom slowly in the bottle over the next brightened with crisp, zesty acidity. Exception- There are tantalizing hints of ripe citrus fruit and 6–7 years, one of the rare California Chardon- ally rich and balanced, it’s a beautiful wine for apricots. Give it 4–5 years in the cellar to come nays that can take some age. —S.H. pairing with shellfish entrées. —S.H. around. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 67 BUYING I GUIDE

Hanzell 2008 Sebella Chardonnay Stephen Ross 2008 Oliver’s Vine- La Crema 2009 Chardonnay (Mon- 92 (Sonoma Valley); $36. Hanzell says 92 yard Chardonnay (Edna Valley); 91 terey); $20. Here’s a classically rich, this Sebella Chardonnay is meant to drink now, $28. Very fine, showing the class of this vine- barrel-aged Chardonnay. With a beautiful golden while their regular Chardonnay, which is yard, at a great price. Although the wine is thor- color, it brims with pineapple, golden mango and famously ageable, develops in the cellar. That’s oughly dry, it’s vast in pineapple and lime fruit, lemon custard flavors, enhanced with bright, cit- strange logic, because the wine is so close to the with a minerally tang from the terroir and rich, rusy acidity. Very fine and classy, at a great price. regular Chardonnay as to be nearly indistinguish- sweet buttered toast and vanilla notes from oak Editors’ Choice. —S.H. able. It’s bone dry, crisply acidic and minerally, barrel aging. The minerality reprises throughout, with citrus, green apple and pear flavors. Give it giving the wine a steely authority. Editors’ La Crema 2009 Chardonnay (Russ- 3–5 years. —S.H. Choice. —S.H. 91 ian River Valley); $30. Dry, racy and clean. Shows real class, with plenty of zesty Kendall-Jackson 2009 Highland Stonestreet 2009 Broken Road lemon and lime acidity, brightening the citrus, 92 Estates Camelot Highlands 92 Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); lemongrass, white peach and mineral flavors. Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley); $30. A $40. Dry, racy and elegant, a food-friendly Production was 3,500 cases. —S.H. beautiful, racy Chardonnay, with a streamlined Chardonnay to pair with shellfish in cream sauce, structure that could almost be a fine, barrel-aged salmon, or a fine roasted chicken. Clean, vibrant Martin Ray 2009 Bald Mountain Sauvignon Blanc. It’s marked by mouthwatering acidity highlights citrus, white peach and nec- 91 Reserve Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains); $30. acidity, with savory lemongrass, hay, vanilla and tarine flavors, with a rich coating of smoky oak. Opulent, brimming with white pepper flavors. First class and elegant as a Drink now through 2015. —S.H. delicious pineapple custard, green apple pie, but- cocktail sipper. —S.H. tered toast, vanilla cream and cinnamon spice fla- Testarossa 2009 Sanford & Bene- vors. Bright acidity provides all the balance this Kendall-Jackson 2009 Jackson 92 dict Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. delightful Chardonnay needs. —S.H. Hills Chardonnay (Santa Barbara Rita Hills); $39. A fine, delicious Chardonnay, 92 Peters Family 2007 Sonoma Stage County); $25. Very fine Chardonnay, marked less expensive than most of Testarossa’s other sin- Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma by brisk, racy acidity and a steely tang to the gle-vineyard Chards, but as good. Crisp in acidity, 91 Coast); $35. Held back longer than most lemon, lime, white peach and honeysuckle fla- it offers very rich pineapple tart, Key lime pie, Chardonnays, this single-vineyard wine is begin- vors. Very complex and lively, an alluring wine golden mango and lemon custard flavors, made ning to pick up bottle complexity. It’s a connois- that will take a few years in the bottle. —S.H. even richer by smoky, sweetly caramelized oak. seur’s wine, not dazzlingly rich and sweet, but dry, —S.H. acidic and minerally, with lemon and orange cit- Marimar Estate 2008 La Masia rus fruit flavors. You have to appreciate subtlety Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay Testarossa 2009 Rosella’s Vineyard 92 to like this artisanal wine. Should evolve in inter- (Russian River Valley); $35. Marked by high Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High- 92 esting ways over the next six years. —S.H. acidity and stony minerals, this is an austerely ele- lands); $44. A clean, acidic Chardonnay, ele- gant Chardonnay. Its natural lime and Meyer gant and dramatic in richness. Despite ripe Sonoma-Cutrer 2009 Russian lemon flavors have been enriched with sweet oak. pineapple, pear, mango and apricot flavors, it has 91 River Ranches Chardonnay Shows the pedigreed finesse of its chilly climate a steely minerality and touch of herbs that ground (Sonoma Coast); $40. This Chardonnay, a estate origin. Drink now. —S.H. it. Drink now. —S.H. blend of various coastal vineyards, is marked by high acidity and great dryness. It is emphat- Smith-Madrone 2008 Chardonnay Arrowood 2008 Reserve Speciale ically not a soft, honeyed fruit gusher. The 92 (Spring Mountain); $30. Shows the 91 Chardonnay (Sonoma County); sleek minerality and elusive citrus fruit flavors bone-dry, crisply acidic minerality of the winery’s $40. A lovely wine, unique and distinctive. Has have just the right touch of buttery, toasted Chardonnays, a brisk, elegant wine whose com- the rich creaminess and citrus and tropical fruit oak. Drink now. —S.H. plexities make it fascinating. The lemon and lime flavors of an upscale Chardonnay, but with a flavors are enriched with a touch of oak and lees. nutty, exotic sweetness, like roasted cashews. Very Sonoma-Cutrer 2009 Chardonnay Try aging for six years to experience an aged Cal- fine, soft and opulent wine. —S.H. 91 (Sonoma Coast); $24. You can feel ifornia Chardonnay. —S.H. and taste the cool weather during this vintage in Freemark Abbey 2009 Chardon- the citrusy acids, steely minerals and sleek, Stephen Ross 2008 Chardonnay 91 nay (Howell Mountain); $45. streamlined flavors of Meyer lemons and nec- 92 (Edna Valley); $24. A deliciously com- There’s not much Chardonnay grown on Howell tarines. Barrel fermentation adds needed rich- plex Chardonnay, nearly as good as the winery’s Mountain, but here’s one to check out. It has an ness. Good price for a dry, sophisticated single-vineyard wines, which makes it a great unusually pungent earthiness, leading to rich fla- Chardonnay. —S.H. value. Smooth and clean, it shows vanilla cream, vors of yellow apricots, lemon tart and kumquats, pineapple tart, Key lime pie and buttered toast with a complex touch of mushroom. Bone dry Stonestreet 2009 Upper Barn flavors. Vibrant acidity keeps it all uplifted and and crisp, it should develop bottle complexities 91 Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); bright. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. $60. Tightly wound and sleek, a nervous, elegant

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 young wine that needs time in the cellar or Stephen Ross 2008 Bien Nacido with lime, white flower and mineral flavors. A decanting to begin to open up. The lemon, lime, 90 Vineyards Chardonnay (Santa likeable young wine that’s a good pairing with honeysuckle and buttered toast flavors have a dis- Maria Valley); $30. Lots to like in this shellfish. —S.H. tinctive tang of minerals, which makes the finish Chardonnay. It’s enormously rich in pineapple, bracing. Now through 2015. —S.H. mango and lemon meringue pie flavors, with Healdsburg Ranches 2009 vanilla and buttered toast from oak. Shows the 88 Unoaked Chardonnay (Sonoma Thomas Fogarty 2007 Langley Hill smooth dryness and crisp acidity of Bien Nacido. County); $10. Great price for a Chardonnay 91 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Moun- A rich, savory wine to drink now. —S.H. that tastes like it costs a lot more. Although it’s tains); $48. Like all Thomas Fogarty’s Chardon- unoaked, it’s very rich in passionfruit, pineapple, Stonestreet 2009 Bear Point nays, this is dry, acidic and minerally. It is not one peach and vanilla cream flavors, with a honeyed Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); of those ultrarich Chards dripping with buttered 90 finish. Easy to find, with 5,000 cases produced. $55. With the creamy, yeasty notes of lees stir- popcorn and tropical fruit jam. Wine aficionados Best Buy. —S.H. ring and fine, smoky oak nuances, this soft, will appreciate the Chablis-like citrus fruit, white buttery Chardonnay is rich in lemon, lime and flower and steel elegance. —S.H. Kendall-Jackson 2009 Grand white peach flavors. It’s an upscale sipper that Reserve Chardonnay (Santa Bar- will develop bottle nuances over the next six 88 Darms Lane 2009 Chardonnay bara-Monterey); $22. Soft and honeyed, an years. —S.H. 90 (Oak Knoll); $28. Made in a dry, tart, unctuous Chardonnay with pleasant citrus fruit minerally style, this is the kind of Chardonnay Testarossa 2009 Chardonnay and buttered toast flavors. Finishes a bit quick, you can call Chablisian. It has an intricate struc- 90 (Santa Lucia Highlands); $32. Won- but earns kudos for dryness and a clean, spicy ture of citrus and apricot fruit, and the oak appli- derfully rich in citrus and tropical fruit flavors, finish. Easy to find, with more than 50,000 cases cation is modest but tasteful, providing hints of with opulent oak notes of buttered toast and produced. —S.H. buttered toast. Understated but elegant, it’s a bright coastal acidity, this Chardonnay packs a lot fine, bracing Chardonnay to drink now. —S.H. of power. With a creamy texture, it defines Cali- Matanzas Creek 2009 Journey fornia Chardonnay. —S.H. 88 Chardonnay (Sonoma County); Kendall-Jackson 2009 Avant $75. A classy Chardonnay for sipping now. Dry 90 Chardonnay (California); $14. A Thomas Fogarty 2007 Portola and zesty in acidity, it has appealing tangerine, new category of Chardonnay introduced this 90 Springs Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Meyer lemon, white flower, honey and mineral year by Kendall-Jackson, and likely to eventu- Mountains); $48. This is a bone dry, austere flavors. —S.H. ally compete with its best-selling Vintner’s and acidic Chardonnay, whose flavors are marked Reserve. The wine is slightly sweet in pineap- by minerals and tart citrus fruits. But it has plenty Migration 2009 Chardonnay ple, orange and vanilla honey flavors, with the of interesting complexity—a Chablis-style Cali- 88 (Russian River Valley); $30. Shows crisp acidity that comes from coastal grape fornia Chardonnay that could develop bottle some of the richness and complexity of Migra- sourcing. The wine has better structure and is complexities over the next six years. — S.H. tion’s single-vineyard Chardonnays, but at much somewhat more minerally and elegant than the less money. The wine is dry, crisp and flavorful in Vinter’s Reserve. Best Buy. —S.H. Thomas Fogarty 2007 Albutom pineapples, green apples, limes and honeysuckle, Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Moun- 90 with oaky notes of buttered toast. Drink now. — tains); $48. Kopriva 2009 Cassidy Ranch Bone dry and high in acidity, an S.H. austere and elegant Chardonnay that offers com- 90 Chardonnay (Carneros); $15. Made plex interest to those who can recognize it. Shows without oak, one of the rare Carneros Chards that Migration 2009 Dierberg Vineyard a mineral and steel profile, with lemon and lime hasn’t seen wood, this wine also never underwent Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley); fruit. Let it warm up in the glass. —S.H. 88 malolactic fermentation. That means what you $45. This pretty, polished young Chardonnay get is pure Carneros fruit and acidity. And how Marimar Estate 2008 Acero comes from the sprawling Santa Maria Valley of clean the green apple, peach and pineapple fla- 89 Unoaked Don Miguel Vineyard Santa Barbara County. It’s a good, dry wine, rich vors are. A true delight, at a good price. Best Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $29. in acidity, with mineral-infused apple, pineapple Buy. —S.H. With no oak, there’s nothing here but natural and pear flavors, lavished with sweet, smoky oak. grape flavors of oranges, limes, green apples, Drink now. —S.H. Patz & Hall 2008 Hyde Vineyard pears and golden mangoes. The acidity is high 90 Chardonnay (Carneros); $55. There and racy. Ready now, but don’t drink it too cold. Robert Young 2008 Chardonnay are masses of pineapple, apricot, orange and —S.H. 88 (Alexander Valley); $40. A difficult green apple fruit in this Chardonnay, accented vintage for the winery, and not the most success- with strong Carneros acidity. Quite a good wine, Arrowood 2009 Chardonnay ful Robert Young Chardonnay. But it does show but once you get past the flavors, it falls off in 88 (Sonoma County); $20. Crisp, deli- the elegance of the vineyard. Rich in acids and interest. Could be a rare Chardonnay sleeper. Try cate and clean Chardonnay, with zesty citrus oak, its underlying flavors are of oranges and giving it 2–3 years in the cellar. —S.H. acidity, like a squeeze of lime. Tastes savory, pineapples. Drink now, not too cold. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 69 BUYING I GUIDE

Truchard 2009 Chardonnay Tres Vinicultores 2008 The Central (Santa Barbara County); $15. Brisk acidity 88 (Carneros); $30. Rich and creamy, 87 Late Harvest Chardonnay (Santa provides a bracing balance to the ripe pineapple, showing tangerine, apricot, buttered toast, cinna- Maria Valley); $40. Quite good, but some veg- pear and peach jam flavors, and there’s a nice mon spice and herb flavors. A solid wine for etal flavors mar this dessert wine, which is very streak of minerality. However, the wine is far too drinking with roast salmon, seared tuna or a salad sweet, with 18% residual sugar. Such sweetness is sweet, and is cloying in the sugary finish. —S.H. of bitter greens with goat cheese and orange usually enough to satisfy on its own, but despite slices. —S.H. the apricot, tangerine and vanilla flavors, a stub- Espiritu del Pomar Junction 2009 born green streak lowers the score. —S.H. 84 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara Bartz-Allen 2009 Chardonnay County); $25. Simple and sweet, a New World Bookster 2009 Chardonnay 87 (Sonoma Coast); $33. A vibrantly Chardonnay with pineapple, orange cream and (Sonoma Coast); $25. This Chardon- vanilla flavors. Crisp acidity provides fortunate acidic, fresh young Chardonnay, clean and oaky, 86 nay has good flavors of pineapples, golden man- cover for the richness. —S.H. with sweet, candied flavors of tangerines, vanilla, gos, green apples and honey. It’s pretty good, but minerals and buttered toast. Could be a little one drawback is that the acidity is very strong, DeLorimier 2008 Chardonnay more complex and challenging. Let it breathe for almost overpowering. —S.H. (Alexander Valley); $28. A sweet, a while. —S.H. 83 simple Chardonnay, with pineapple and orange McIntyre Vineyards 2009 Estate jam flavors and oak-like vanilla and caramel influ- Grove Street 2009 Dijon Clone Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High- ences. —S.H. Block Chardonnay (Sonoma Val- 86 87 lands); $28. So ripe in pineapple tart, lime cus- ley); $22. This is an appealing Chardonnay. It’s a tard and lemon chiffon pie, so sweet in Picnic at Pomar Junction 2008 little sweet in apricot jam, peach, green apple, caramelized oak and vanilla, that it’s almost a 82 Chardonnay (Paso Robles); $15. honey and buttered toast flavors, but the sweet- dessert wine. Delicious, but needs to rein in the Thin in orange, apricot and vanilla flavors, with ness is balanced with crisp, citrusy acidity and a richness and make the finish dry and crisp, not soft acidity, this Chardonnay is okay for big par- nice cut of minerality. —S.H. sugary. —S.H. ties and fast food. —S.H.

Markham 2009 Chardonnay (Napa White Oak 2009 Chardonnay Butterfield Station 2009 Chardon- 87 Valley); $19. New oak provides rich 86 (Russian River Valley); $24. A 81 nay (California); $8. Way too sugary vanilla and buttered toast flavors to this Chardon- dependable Chardonnay, ripe and opulent in sweet and simple, with orange and apricot jam nay, which comes from Markham’s vineyard in pineapple, crème brûlée, vanilla cream, buttered flavors. —S.H. the Oak Knoll District. The wine is brisk in acid- toast and cinnamon spice flavors. Could and ity, with citrus fruit and papaya flavors. —S.H. should be drier, as it exceeds the sweetness speed limit, but will satisfy fans of this ripe California PINOT GRIGIO SKN 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Val- style. —S.H. 87 ley); $12. Plenty of flavor in this Backhouse 2009 Pinot Grigio (Cal- unoaked Chardonnay, which the winery says Calcareous 2009 Twisted Sisters 86 ifornia); $6. A good buy for a white comes from an Oakville vineyard. It’s packed with 85 Chardonnay (Paso Robles); $20. wine that’s dry, clean and crisply acidic. The fla- pineapples and lemondrop candy, with fine acid- An easy Chardonnay, simple and pleasing in vors are fine, of lemons, limes and tart Mandarin ity and a touch of mineral. Best Buy. —S.H. pineapple jam, tangerine, sweet vanilla and but- oranges. Best Buy. —S.H. tered toast flavors. Ready to drink now. —S.H. Smoking Loon 2009 Pinot Grigio Testarossa 2009 Cuvee Katelyn Carmel Hills Winery 2009 (California); $8. Chardonnay (Santa Barbara 86 Good price for this 87 Chardonnay (Monterey County); dry, crisp and stylish Pinot Grigio. Easy to drink County); $20. A brisk, bright Chardonnay, 85 $29. Lots of sweet oak on this Chardonnay, giv- as a cocktail sipper, with lemon and lime sour made in the Testarossa style of ripe fruit and oak- ing it domineering buttered toast and caramel candy flavors that sweeten toward the end with a iness. What it lacks in subtlety it makes up for in flavors. The underlying wine is rich and ripe in hit of honey. Best Buy. —S.H. the sheer power of tangerine, pineapple and pineapples. —S.H. tropical fruit flavors, elaborated with vanilla cream and caramelized oak. —S.H. Presqu’ile 2009 Chardonnay SAUVIGNON BLANC 85 (Santa Maria Valley); $35. Simple Thomas Fogarty 2007 Estate and direct in oaky, fruity pineapple and lemon Bernardus 2009 Griva Sauvignon 87 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Moun- jam flavors, this Chardonnay tastes a little sweet. 91 Blanc (Arroyo Seco); $20. A very tains); $36. Tight and dry, with mineral-laden It’s made in the modern style, appealing if not beautiful Sauvignon Blanc, without any disagree- citrus fruit flavors enriched with oak and creamy particularly complex. Drink now. —S.H. able green notes, although it does carefully tread lees. This is an elegantly constructed Chardonnay the line. Shows the Arroyo Seco’s crisp acidity, marked by crisp sleekness, and is showing its best Bianchi 2009 Signature Selection with tart, savory flavors of gooseberries, Meyer now. —S.H. 84 El Camino Vineyard Chardonnay lemons and minerals. The addition of some

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Sémillon seems to add fat to the bones. A great vors, this wine’s for you. It shows enough touch of petrol. An elegant, exotic wine for cock- restaurant wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. lemon, lime and white flower ripeness to give tail sipping to get the evening started. —S.H. it rich interest. —S.H. Envy 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Kendall-Jackson 2009 Late Har- 91 (Yountville); $23. A rich, complex Fog Head 2009 Reserve Sauvi- 86 vest Riesling (Monterey County); Sauvignon Blanc worth the price. You can taste 85 gnon Blanc (Monterey); $10. A $25. With a deep golden color, this late-harvest the oak and lees influences in the buttermilk pleasantly crisp, fruity Sauvignon Blanc for drink- Riesling has rich flavors of apricots and pears. It’s cream and smokiness, but the lemon, lime and ing now as a cocktail or with simple fare. It’s a little on the soft side, lacking the crispness to white peach flavors really star. Editors’ Choice. sweet in jammy pineapples, oranges and limes. give balance to the sweetness. Drink now. —S.H. —S.H. Best Buy. —S.H.

Koehler 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Kissos 2009 Sauvignon Blanc WHITE BLENDS 90 (Santa Ynez Valley); $16. Kudos to 84 (Napa Valley); $22. Unripe, with Koehler for keeping this wine dry and acidic, strong lemongrass, green pea and feline spray fla- Marimar Estate 2009 Don Miguel which is what Sauvignon Blanc is supposed to be. vors accompanying more pleasant lemons and 92 Vineyard Chardonnay-Albariño But it’s not a lean wine at all. It has rich, savory limes. Acidity is strong, and the wine is totally (Russian River Valley); $28. Is this the first flavors of lemons, limes, pineapples and kiwi dry. —S.H. Chardonnay-Albariño blend in California? fruits, with mouthwatering white pepper spices. Maybe, and based on the wine, there should Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Bianchi 2009 Signature Series San be more. Shows Chardonnay’s cool-climate 83 Lucas Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc tangerine and green apple fruit, while the Kelleher 2009 Block 21 Sauvignon (Monterey); $13. Okay for everyday sipping, Albariño adds zesty acidity and a white flower, 88 Blanc (Napa Valley); $28. A fine but there are problems. The wine is watery and lemon tang. A brilliant wine to drink now. Edi- Sauvignon Blanc, dry and crisp in acidity, with a thin in citrus flavors, which accentuates the acids tors’ Choice. —S.H. long, spicy finish. Feels minerally and clean in and makes it sharp, almost sour. And there’s a the mouth, yet rewards with rich lemongrass, candy-sweet finish. —S.H. Calcareous 2008 Viognier- pineapple, Asian pear and vanilla cream flavors. 90 Marsanne (Paso Robles); $28. Deli- —S.H. Butterfield Station 2009 Sauvi- cious, offering an orchard of oranges and 83 gnon Blanc (California); $8. Simple peaches, made even richer with honeysuckle, Jax 2008 Y3 Sauvignon Blanc and soft, with buttery citrus flavors. Would buttered toast and vanilla notes. Fine acidity 87 (Napa Valley); $17. A pretty, polished score higher, but the wine falls apart on the makes the flavors bright and clean. The blend is Sauvignon Blanc for drinking as a cocktail sipper finish. —S.H. 75% Viognier and 25% Marsanne. —S.H. with all kinds of zesty appetizers. It’s dryish and crisp in acidity, with rich flavors of pineapples, Cass 2009 The Rockin’ One Rous- lemons, kiwi fruit, limes and vanilla. —S.H. RIESLING 90 sane-Marsanne(Paso Robles); $32. Richness and opulence characterize this white Field Stone 2009 Redwood Ranch Smith-Madrone 2009 Riesling Rhône blend of Roussanne and Marsanne, which 86 Vineyard Select Sauvignon Blanc 90 (Spring Mountain); $27. With 12.9% is easily Cass’s best ever. It’s delicous in vanilla (Alexander Valley); $20. Nicely dry and crisp alcohol, this Riesling is absolutely dry and fasci- cream-accented Mandarin orange and honey fla- in acidity, with good varietal flavors of lemons, natingly complex. High acidity frames citrus fruit, vors, with a tang of minerality. The alcohol is limes, grapefruits, green grass and white pepper. green apple and mineral flavors. Should develop high, yet the wine maintains exquisite balance There’s also a lot of feline emission, so if you’re in interesting ways over the next six years. —S.H. and poise. —S.H. sensitive to that, you won’t like it. —S.H. Davis Family 2008 Riesling Intelligent Design 2009 Cuvée Stephen & Walker 2009 Sauvi- 88 (Sonoma Coast); $22. A lovely Ries- 84 Blanc (Central Coast); $34. Soft and 86 gnon Blanc (Green Valley); $28. ling, made in the German style. It’s dryish, low in easy to drink, with apricot, tangerine and vanilla There’s not much Sauvignon Blanc grown in this alcohol, high in racy acidity and tantalizing in fla- honey flavors. A blend of Viognier, Roussanne cool region of the Russian River Valley, which vor, with suggestions of citrus fruits, wildflowers, and Grenache Blanc. —S.H. makes this bottling a curiosity. It has excellent minerals and a distinct touch of petrol. It’s won- acidity and is flavorful in Meyer lemon, lime, derful as an apéritif and fine with Indian and vanilla and honeysuckle flower flavors, but is a Vietnamese food. —S.H. OTHER WHITE WINE little too sweet to earn a higher score. —S.H. Davis Family 2008 Riesling (Santa Curtis 2009 Roussanne (Santa Bar- White Oak 2009 Sauvignon Blanc 88 Lucia Highlands); $22. Lots of racy 82 bara County); $25. Tastes like sug- 86 (Russian River Valley); $16. If you acidity in this wine, which cleans the mouth and ared orange and apricot juice, with a bizarre hit like those dry, acidic New Zealand Sauvignon gets those tastebuds watering. It’s dry, with zesty of acidity. Lacks dryness and breed, especially at Blancs, with their gooseberry aromas and fla- grapefruit and lime flavors, accented with an oily this price. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 71 BUYING I GUIDE

Negra (literally, “black widow”) is a third each layered wine is built to age over a decade or DESSERT WINES Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. more. —P.G. For a red wine it is a real fruitbowl of unusual fla- Envy 2007 Late Harvest (Napa Val- vors—peaches, cranberries, cherries soaked in rum. Tulpen Cellars 2007 Coalesce 94 ley); $45. This very sweet wine was har- Round and full, quite delicious and yet focused into 92 (Columbia Valley); $26. This Bor- vested at 33 degrees brix, which for wine geeks a finish with persistent, ageworthy tannins, this will deaux blend is three fifths Cabernet Sauvi- means lots and lots of sugar. Honeyed flavors domi- be hard to keep in the cellar, but well worth it if you gnon, yet deftly weaves in smaller percentages nate, fruited with apricots and tangerines. It is, in a do. Cellar Selection. —P.G. of Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Mal- word, delicious. Even better, it’s frosted with vanilla bec. Fruit-driven and complex, it’s a smooth and butter, and vital acidity is perfect. A superior Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Cold ride through fresh fruit flavors of plum, blue- Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc that joins the top ranks of 93 Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- berry and cherry, focusing into a finish with California dessert wines. —S.H. gnon (Columbia Valley); $28. The Caber- ripe, polished tannins. —P.G. net from Cold Creek is not only old vine, but in Stephen & Walker 2009 Patrona terms of tightness and definition, it suggests that Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Ethos Muscat Canelli (Alexander Valley); 91 it may be one of the most ageworthy wines of the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $38. This dessert wine is very sweet but not 91 vintage from Washington State. This new vintage (Columbia Valley); $38. A lovely, lush, com- incredibly so, with a flavor like apricot and tan- blends in 10% Merlot and 3% Syrah, and the plex and inviting nose brings rich cherry fruit, gerine jam, drizzled with honey and vanilla wine is detailed with iron filings, pepper, bark, extract and sprinkled with cinnamon. If that coffee grounds, smoke and toast right up front. and dried earth notes. The fruit is tight, tart, and The wine is ripe and fruity, but also shows tangy sounds delicious, it is, and the acidity makes it racy—a suggestion of wild berry and spicy plum. clean and zesty. The price isn’t bad, considering acidity, even hints of citrus and pineapple, and a Cellar Selection. —P.G. that this is a full bottle, not a half bottle as so lively mouthfeel that invites another sip. Still young and unevolved, it remains a bit disjointed, many dessert wines are. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Lachini 2006 Il Mulinello Klipsun but with many interesting components. —P.G. Vineyard (Red Mountain); $49. V. Sattui NV Madeira (California); 92 This wine has been in release for almost two $42. Here’s a sweet dessert wine that’s a Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008 Canoe 88 years, but the extra time has only improved it. pleasure to drink after a meal, with little fruit- Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Nicely melding the strengths of Klipsun vineyard 91 based filo pastries. Made in the traditional (Horse Heaven Hills); $28. A fine bottle— Cabernet and Merlot with 24 months in half new, style, the wine is rich in raspberry cream, choco- full, fleshy, immediately throwing out dense aro- half year-old French oak barrels, this powerful late and cherry liqueur flavors, and finishes clean matics with toast and roasted coffee and bitter wine has concentrated cherry and cassis fruit, and spicy. —S.H. chocolate components. A deep vein of black potent baking spices, suggestions of mint and cherry and cassis keeps the core tight and pepper, and a host of details waiting to be Chaucer’s NV Pomegranate Wine focused, and a small splash of Syrah adds the noticed. A great bottle to toss into a blind tasting (California); $15. A simple, off-dry scent of black pepper. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 84 of high-end California reds —P.G. sipper marked by raspberry, muscat, tangerine and Madeira-type flavors. Clean and acidic, but Lachini 2006 La Bestia Klipsun Fidelitas 2007 Optu (Columbia the palate wishes it were sweeter. —S.H. 92 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Valley); $40. The Optu red is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 9% Malbec Chaucer’s NV Raspberry Wine (Red Mountain); $49. Late-picked, 100% and 6% Petit Verdot. No Cab Franc, which (California); $15. Lots of sour rasp- Cabernet fruit from an iconic Red Mountain 84 seems to be losing favor among Washington berry candy flavor in this semisweet, acidic wine. vineyard; hence the name, which translates as winemakers. The 2007 is a much better Optu Could be richer to earn a higher score, but it’s “the beast”. It’s jammy and ripe, but the tannins than its predecessor, nicely structured and bal- clean and refreshing. —S.H. have been tamed, and the fruit is front and cen- ter, along with brown spices and toasty barrel anced, with a blend of fruit, leaf, earth and barrel Chaucer’s NV Raspberry notes. This is a thoroughly delicious wine that that is seamless and complex. Elegant and 80 (California); $15. There’s a nasty, dirty seems to be drinking in its prime, though it shows detailed, this is a wine to tuck away for a few smell to this wine, although it’s sweeter and bet- no sign of tiring. —P.G. years. Cellar Selection. —P.G. ter in taste. Just barely recommendable. —S.H. Tulpen Cellars 2007 Cabernet Lachini 2007 La Contrada (Walla 92 Sauvignon (Walla Walla); $28. 91 Walla); $45. A classic from the first WASHINGTON Pure Cabernet sourced from a trio of Walla Walla sniff to the last swallow, this Bordeaux blend, vineyards, and finished at 14.9% alcohol. Supple made for Lachini by winemaker Jamie Brown, CABERNETS & BLENDS and spicy, this displays a firm core of tart fruit, offers tangy red fruits, pepper, toast and earth annotated with lead pencil, graphite and char- highlights, with a base of green olive and brown Beresan 2007 Viuda Negra (Walla coal. Though it seems almost deceptively light spices. All in all, a fascinating wine with subtle 93 Walla); $35. The new vintage of Viuda alongside the Tulpen Merlot, this compact and variations on the Bordeaux theme. —P.G.

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Lachini 2007 Spur Cabernet Sauvi- Columbia Crest 2007 Walter Clore :Nota Bene 2007 Abbinare 91 gnon (Columbia Valley); $45. A fine 90 Private Reserve (Columbia Valley); 87 (Columbia Valley); $25. A Bordeaux trio of vineyards—Boushey, Cold Creek and $30. A fine rendition of this wine that honors blend dominated by Merlot, this soft, round red Sagemoor—comprise the blend here. The fruit the founding father of the shows a strong streak of vanilla tea around the runs the table from cherry to blackberry to cassis, industry. Elegant and polished, it blends classic black cherry fruit. The drying tannins seep into a threaded throughout with fresh herbs and clean Bordeaux varieties into a complete and satisfying lingering finish, which also features sweet baking earth. Good balance with no heat from the 14.7% wine with mixed black fruits, coffee grounds, spices and more of that same vanilla. —P.G. alcohol; the tannins are polished and drying, and loam, pencil shavings and fresh-cut tobacco. the finish has a soft, leathery smoothness. —P.G. Drinking well already, it will age gracefully for :Nota Bene 2007 Miscela (Colum- up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 87 bia Valley); $25. A Bordeaux blend Obelisco Estate 2008 Electrum dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, the Mis- 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Moun- Ramseyer 2007 Vintage Three cela starts strong with a complex bouquet of tain); $60. This is a very well-crafted wine from 90 (Yakima Valley); $38. A sturdy, sub- black fruits, toast, smoke, coffee grounds and an important new winery on Red Mountain. stantial, Cabernet-dominated Bordeaux blend, pencil shavings. The alcohol, listed at 15.4%, Building on a terroir-driven European style pio- the Yakima Valley fruit delivers dark cherry does not intrude, yet somehow it seems to neered by Hedges, this wine, made by the wine- flavors wrapped in dark chocolate and whiffs mute the complexity. As a result, the finish making team of Pete Hedges and Sarah of smoke and charcoal. Medium-bodied, turns astringent, drying, with a layer of ash Goedhart, brings a perfect blend of mixed red smooth and polished, with medium-term aging drifting over the fruit. —P.G. and blue fruits, spice, juicy acidity and the inde- potential. —P.G. finable “extra” depth of Red Mountain vineyard Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008 Caber- William Church 2007 Cabernet land. Though the vines are young, the wine shows net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $29. 87 immense promise. —P.G. 90 $16. The aromas are firm and appealing, a good A very classy effort, with the barrel influence mix of black cherry and black currant, with a hint pulled back and the fruit ripened to a nice Obelisco Estate 2008 Red Wine of garden soil. The mouthfeel is young and still blend of berry and raisin. Tannins are firm and (Red Mountain); $30. This is the taut, showing raspberry along with cherry fruit, 91 slightly scrapey; and the structure overall most available of all the new releases from this and some stiff but well-managed tannins. —P.G. brings the fruit, tannin, acids and oak into important new winery and vineyard on Red good balance. The finish lingers with threads Mountain. It sets up with black cherry, plum and Columbia Crest 2008 H3 Cabernet of smoke and coffee. —P.G. blackberry fruits, annotated with clove and cof- 87 Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills); $15. fee. Perfectly balanced and kept at a moderate DiStefano 2006 domenica (Colum- Quite firm and focused, with a dominating 13.7% alcohol, this Cabernet-dominated Bor- scent of cut tobacco. The black cherry fruit is set bia Valley); $20. This appealing Bor- deaux blend is graceful and refined, built for food 89 against juicy acids, and rolls into a finish with deaux blend opens with seductive mocha and and cellarworthy for up to a decade. —P.G. streaks of licorice and more of that cut tobacco milk chocolate aromas, threaded with cedar and flavor. —P.G. toast. The fruit stands up to the wood, with pretty William Church 2007 Sur La Mer berry and rhubarb flavors. Extra bottle age has (Columbia Valley); $28. Buried Cane 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- 91 A Bordeaux smoothed it out. —P.G. blend of five grapes, this melds blackberry and 86 gnon (Washington); $13. Though black cherry fruit with plenty of toasty oak and Fidelitas 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- labeled varietally, almost a quarter of the blend is ground coffee. It’s a nice mix of fruit and barrel, 89 gnon (Columbia Valley); $25. This Malbec, along with a two percent splash of Syrah. dark and smoky, but not too heavy at 14.2% alco- is 100% varietal, with a mix of vineyard sources Herbal and showing scents of stem along with hol. —P.G. including Champoux, Weinbau, Conner Lee and peppery black fruits, this tannic and inexpensive Dineen. It’s a carefully crafted blend of different red would be a fine match for a pot roast or stew. :Nota Bene 2007 Ciel du Cheval AVAs; a bright and clean example of Washington Black olive and smoke flavors weave into the fin- 90 Vineyard (Red Mountain); $35. state Cabernet. Firm, compact, with blue and ish. —P.G. The blend is 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% purple fruits, just a hint of barrel age and pol- Merlot, and 25% Cabernet Franc, and the aro- ished tannins. —P.G. Snoqualmie 2008 Whistle Stop mas carry the metal and stone undertones of 86 Cabernet-Merlot (Columbia Val- the vineyard. :Nota Bene’s style, which favors :Nota Bene 2007 Conner Lee Vine- ley); $10. The blend is roughly two thirds rather soft flavors, fits this vineyard well, as 88 yard (Columbia Valley); $32. The Cabernet Sauvignon and one third Merlot, the the softening makes the wine accessible with- wine is easy-drinking, smooth and tasty, really color is dark and rich, and the nose inviting. Spice out losing specificity. Bright red fruits, iron needing no further aging to show its stuff. Pol- and tobacco, vanilla and moist earth surround and stone, tight and dense tannins, and inter- ished tannins, round sweet fruit, plenty of bak- black cherry fruit, with tart and lightly drying tan- esting streaks of cedar and spice make this a ing spices and a chocolaty finish—what’s not to nins. Not a big wine, but well-crafted, smooth wine to contemplate. —P.G. like? —P.G. and supple. Best Buy. —P.G.

WineMag.com | 73 BUYING I GUIDE

Silver Lake 2007 Roza Hills Vine- the best ever. Seductive and smoky, it grabs you Mount Baker 2008 Proprietor’s 85 yard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from the get-go with aromas of sweet fruit and 82 Limited Release Cabernet Franc (Rattlesnake Hills); $19. Dark, with a com- toasty barrel. It’s full in front, smooth in the mid- (Yakima Valley); $18. Front-loaded, herbal, plex nose mixing very ripe, raisiny fruit with dle and soft in the finish. Just a hint of herb and earthy and a bit dull. No fruit. —P.G. smoke and a hint of spoilage. The wine seems leaf in the tannins, which may play out well with a pushed just over the edge, losing focus and defi- few years of cellaring. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. nition. The fruit quickly gives way to leaf and for- MALBEC est floor flavors in an herbal, earthy finish. —P.G. Hollywood Hill 2008 DIst 83 88 (Horse Heaven Hills); $36. This Fidelitas 2008 Malbec (Columbia Rhône blend is scented with sharp-toned berry, 88 Valley); $35. Pure varietal, lightly spicy, OTHER RED BLENDS spice, and menthol and it has an herbaceous note tart and clean, this shows plenty of the grape’s that is well-integrated and set against light tan- natural tendency toward a leafy, lightly barky fla- Buty 2007 Columbia Rediviva nins. Don’t look for a lot of sweet fruit; this is vor. The fruit is lean but true, wild berry with a 96 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Horse more European, herbal and firm. A fine food Heaven Hills); $48. From the winery’s Phinny wine. —P.G. little sourness, and the tannins are smooth and Hill vineyard, the Columbia Rediviva is 48% polished. —P.G. Cabernet Sauvignon and 52% Syrah. Complex Latah Creek NV Monarch (Colum- and satiny, it’s a riveting wine, inky and bursting 88 bia Valley); $20. This Mount Baker 2008 Proprietor’s with a sensuous mix of berry, cassis, mocha, loam, Cabernet/Syrah/Zinfandel blend is a pretty wine, 88 Limited Release Malbec (Yakima cinnamon and spice. Tremendous density and with a mix of berries, soft tannins and a medium- Valley); $20. Fresh, spicy and crisp, this deft depth; despite its youth the wine curls around light finish, laced with vanilla. —P.G. Malbec shines with pretty raspberry fruit and the tongue like thick smoke, showing more and sharp acidity. Focused and clean, it’s a big step more detail. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Sparkman 2008 Kindred (Colum- forward for this winery. —P.G. bia Valley); $20. A blended red from Efesté 2008 Emmy (Wahluke 88 Sparkman, sharp and tannic, with good concen- Obelisco Estate 2008 Malbec (Red Slope); $36. Emmy is 70% Mourvèdre 92 tration. Tart, spicy and herbal, with hints of and 30% Syrah blend. The fruit expression is 88 Mountain); $30. Tart red currant and tomato and wild berry. It rolls into an astringent pure and powerful, an intense burst of raspberry bright acidity pull the wine into focus; the depth finish, with a dark chocolate note. —P.G. and cranberry, anchored in mineral and chalk. of Red Mountain terroir is just beginning to Only neutral oak was used, so the fruit is framed express itself, but the promise is there for a very DiStefano NV donna maria beautifully by the acids and tannins, and it is so special site with outstanding potential. —P.G. (Columbia Valley); $20. The alcohol pure and resonant that it is hard to believe that 85 is nearly 15% and there is some burn in the this wine won’t age beautifully for a decade or William Church 2008 Gamache mouth, along with high-toned flavors bordering more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. on volatile. Sharp and penetrating, it seems to 88 Vineyards Malbec (Columbia Val- ley); $30. Aromatic with pepper and fresh-cut :Nota Bene 2007 Una Notte have blown past most of its fruit. —P.G. tobacco, well defined by herbal fruits and leafy (Columbia Valley); $32. Sweet, 91 Roza Ridge 2008 Roadside Market tannins, this single-vineyard Malbec is stylish and sappy, almost jammy berry fruit flavors open the wine, and quickly lead into a midpalate with an 83 Red (Rattlesnake Hills); $15. This balanced. What is missing is depth, but the bal- unusual mix of forest mushroom, earth, cured shows the herbal, somewhat stemmy character of ance and length are just right, and the wine does meat and dried leaf accents. Complex and Yakima Valley fruit in a cool vintage. It’s well not overreach. —P.G. thought-provoking. —P.G. made, with good balance, but not quite ripe enough. Leaf and stem and herb dominate, with Columbia Crest 2008 Reserve Mal- Beresan 2007 The Buzz Yellow just a suggestion of tart berry. —P.G. 86 bec (Horse Heaven Hills); $35. 91 Jacket Vineyard Red Wine (Walla Clean and crisply defined, this brings black cur- Walla); $19. There should be plenty of buzz CABERNET FRANC rant and leafy berry flavors into the center, with about The Buzz. Dense and dark, loaded with an herbal frame and well-managed, though black fruits, coffee grounds and ground pepper, lightly stemmy, tannins. Not a big wine; correct this high-alcohol, slightly volatile wine is not DiStefano 2006 Sogno Cabernet and varietal, but a little dull. —P.G. unlike some cult wines selling for four times the 87 Franc (Columbia Valley); $25. Soft- price. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ened by the extra bottle age, this Cabernet Franc is already reaching maturity. The fruit flavors Roza Ridge 2008 Malbec (Rat- William Church 2008 Bishop’s have melded into pastry fillings; there is a leath- 84 tlesnake Hills); $20. A bit murky, the 90 Blend (Columbia Valley); $20. This ery scent and some pencil shavings also. Overall herbal and spicy flavors of Malbec are softened is a quite different mix than previous versions of it’s drinking optimally at the moment, but seems into a smooth but diffuse wine, with a plastic note the Bishop’s Blend Red, and in my experience in danger of cracking up. —P.G. in the finish. —P.G.

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 toned flavors are bright and set the fruit against secondary fruit aromas. Smooth, ripe and ready MERLOT firm tannins and a layer of loam and graphite. to drink. Best Buy. —P.G. Give it a few years in the cellar to bring out all Tulpen Cellars 2007 Merlot the complexity. —P.G. 94 (Columbia Valley); $28. Once again PETITE SIRAH the Merlot is the best of a very fine flight of Spring Valley Vineyard 2008 Tulpen wines. More muscular than the Caber- 90 Muleskinner Merlot (Walla Walla); Dusted Valley 2008 Petite Sirah net, it includes 10% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot $50. The 2008 Muleskinner is toned down, per- 89 (Columbia Valley); $42. Dark and in the mix, resulting in a dense, dark wine loaded haps from the cooler vintage. Though still plenty dusty, this palate-coating wine shows well-man- with black fruits. Polished tannins are lightly lay- ripe and full throttle (almost 15% alcohol), it aged tannins, smoothed just enough to unveil the ered in streaks of leaf, herb and earth. The alco- brings in nuances of herb and earth that add strawberry, cherry and cassis fruit flavors. A mix hol tops 15%, but there is not a hint of heat in the some depth and interest; the fruit flavors run to of French and American (Wisconsin!) barrels finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. pomegranate and tart red berry. The new oak is brings toast and a wash of brine to the finish. — again pulled back (to 40%), and adds just a hint P.G. Obelisco Estate 2008 Merlot (Red of toast and coffee to the finish. —P.G. 92 Mountain); $30. Estate-grown, spicy Latah Creek 2008 Monarch Petite and fresh, this exciting wine from a new Red Beresan 2007 Merlot (Columbia 87 Sirah (Wahluke Slope); $30. Pepper Mountain producer shows outstanding potential. 89 Valley); $25. Tight, sharp, and toasty, and black fruits comprise this pure Petite Sirah Carefully crafted by the winemaking team of this thick and compact wine shows plenty of from one of Washington’s warmest AVAs. Under- Pete Hedges and Sarah Goedhart, it’s stylish, cherry fruit wrapped in chocolaty oak. It hints at scored with herb and earth, it is a far cry from the European, sleek and polished. The fruit is spicy toast and cracker, but never quite breaks through jammy monsters of California, but nicely made in and bright, the barrel accents just right, the tan- into the complexity that is promised by the first a light and elegant style. —P.G. nins smooth and supple, and the length surpris- whiff or two. —P.G. ing. A fine effort. —P.G. :Nota Bene 2007 Conner Lee Vine- SYRAH Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Canoe yard Merlot (Columbia Valley); Ridge Estate Merlot (Horse 88 91 $32. Soft, plump and fruity, this pleasing, pure Ross Andrew 2008 Boushey Vine- Heaven Hills); $22. A fine effort in this classic Washington Merlot pushes black cherry, coffee yard Syrah (Columbia Valley); $34. vintage, the Merlot is firm, almost muscular, and 94 and baking chocolate flavors into a roundly acces- This perfectly captures this spectacular vineyard’s dappled with fresh herbs—cilantro and basil. The sible wine with no rough edges at all. It’s a quaf- flavor “stamp”—a beguiling mix of aromas, fla- brambly blackberry fruit has the power to more fer with cojones. —P.G. vors and textures that begin with orange peel and than hold its own after 18 months in two-thirds moist earth and unfold across the palate in a new French oak. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Mer- graceful jumble. Streaks of compost, raw meat, Fidelitas 2008 Merlot (Red Moun- 86 lot (Columbia Valley); $16. Soft and tart berry and good funk run together seamlessly, ripe, with fruit flavors that border on raisin and creating a supple, continuously enjoyable wine tain); $45. Tightly wound, this young 91 that just doesn’t want to quit. Notably, the alcohol Merlot, from a blend of Red Mountain vineyards, prune, this nicely bottle-aged Merlot is good to has a steely spine and muscular tannins. The fruit go right now. In fact, it could pass for an older is listed at just 13.8%—and it feels natural and is a bit subdued at the moment, but there is a wine, or perhaps a nonvintage blend; it’s smooth fully ripe at that level. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. clear sense of structure, verticality and depth. and mature, with good balance and very soft tan- Efesté 2008 Eléni Syrah (Yakima Notes of graphite and earth accent the tart red nins. —P.G. fruits. Give this one plenty of decanting. —P.G. 93 Valley); $36. This new offering from Silver Lake 2007 Roza Hills Vine- rising star Efesté is a wine of amazing grace, pol- Fidelitas 2008 Merlot (Columbia 86 yard Reserve Merlot (Rattlesnake ish and depth—a young wine with a dense core 90 Valley); $25. Youthful and tart, this Hills); $19. Brown spices around sour cherry of berry fruit flavors, a wrapping of mineral and tangy and fruit-driven Merlot opens with berries, fruit flavors roll through the midpalate; then the steel, ripe and tightly wound tannins, and notes of pie cherries, baking spices and hints of cocoa, wine turns a bit thin and hard. More time in the coffee and graphite stacked through the long fin- smoothes out in the midpalate and thoroughly bottle may soften it up a bit further; right now it ish. Cellar Selection. —P.G. seduces by the time it gently fades. Delicious drinks well with food, especially a nice, fat roast now, but give it another four or five years and it of beef. —P.G. Sparkman 2008 Ruckus Syrah may dazzle. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 92 (Red Mountain); $32. A good amal- Hyatt 2006 Merlot (Rattlesnake gam of Red Mountain flavors—hard, tight tan- Sinclair Estate 2007 Merlot 85 Hills); $10. This is quite far along the nins; dark, smoky black fruits; an underlayer of 90 (Columbia Valley); $35. An interest- aging curve, dark and showing brick along the graphite and mineral. The wine is hard and com- ing, fecund nose carries aromas of wet hay along edges. The nose has some interesting brown pact, unyielding, but well-balanced and com- with cherries and plums. Well-balanced and high- sugar nuances, plenty of stiff tannins, and mature, plete. In the nose are suggestions of moist earth,

WineMag.com | 75 BUYING I GUIDE compost, soy, seaweed; the message is, stay Sparkman 2008 Darkness Syrah tuned. —P.G. 91 (Yakima Valley); $56. This vintage of SANGIOVESE the Darkness Syrah is framed in an elegant, acid- Tulpen Cellars 2007 Sangiovese Tulpen Cellars 2007 Syrah (Colum- driven, vintage-specific style. There is plenty of bia Valley); $20. (Columbia Valley); $20. A juicy, deli- 92 A Rhône blend that fruit—dark and roasted, with a mix of berries, 91 will, in future vintages, not be varietally named, cious Sangio, whose bright acidity underscores a pepper, and a splash of citrus—but the overall this is far from a standard Washington Syrah. It’s lush mix of raspberries, blackberries, boysenber- flavor set is highlighted by its acidity, and sup- threaded beautifully with nuances of fruit and ries and plum. The alcohol is a substantial 14.8%. ported by earthy tannins. A fine food wine, with spice from the Viognier coferment, Grenache The wine benefits from an extra year of bottle and Mourvèdre that are included. Aromatic, some years of life ahead. —P.G. age, and is now beginning to hint at grace notes spicy and weaving together chocolate, licorice, of leaf and tobacco. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. granite, roasted meat and berry flavors, it is both Columbia Crest 2008 Coyote substantial and forward. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 90 Canyon Vineyard Reserve Syrah Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2008 (Horse Heaven Hills); $35. A fine single-vine- 88 Sangiovese (Columbia Valley); :Nota Bene 2007 Syrah (Columbia yard Syrah, aromatic with seductive scents of $28. The addition of 11% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Malbec adds meat and muscle to this 91 Valley); $25. Much more accessible berry and earth, accented with toast and set up in otherwise moderately light Sangio. Tart straw- than the winery’s 2006 Syrah, this mixes muscle the mouth with firm tannins. It’s an elegant take berry and pomegranate fruit is set against thicker and meat, highlights from smaller component on Syrah, very pretty, juicy and tart. More bottle parts (Mourvèdre and Grenache) and overall tannins. Firm acids carry flavors of lemon and time is a good idea before drinking, or decant it clever blending. While bringing in the tart red orange rind into the finish. —P.G. for several hours to smooth it out further. —P.G. fruit, the composted leaves, the moist loam and light funk of Washington Syrah, it also shows Obelisco Estate 2008 Les Gosses some pretty baking spices and a tight, precise fin- ZINFANDEL Vineyard Syrah (Red Mountain); ish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 90 $30. A beautiful nose shoots up seductive aro- Columbia Crest 2008 Stone Tree Vineyard Reserve Primitivo :Nota Bene 2007 Ciel du Cheval mas of herb and berry, lightly touched with barn- 89 (Wahluke Slope); $35. Smoky and toasty, with Vineyard Syrah (Red Mountain); yard in the most inviting way. A young wine, from 91 spicy blackberry and dark chocolate scents and $35. Lovely delineation here, the berry/cherry young vines, it expresses itself more in the aromas flavors. The inviting nose leads into a moderately fruit framed with coffee and chocolate from a than in the finish. But the balance is elegant and full-bodied wine with good persistence. Spice 50/50 mix of French and American oak barrels. refined, the flavors full and earthy, the style rem- and berry suggest its kinship to Zinfandel, but The surprise is the addition (via co-fermentation) iniscent of other European-influenced Washing- there is something also of the southern Italian of 6% Viognier, which stabilizes color and gives a ton such as Gramercy. —P.G. wines in the coffee and licorice accents. —P.G. pleasing, floral/citrus lift to the scents and flavors. Good balance and follow through. —P.G. William Church 2008 Syrah Latah Creek 2008 Monarch Zinfan- (Columbia Valley); $25. del (Horse Heaven Hills); $25. The Efesté 2008 Ceidleigh Syrah (Red 90 A fine selec- 87 tion of vineyards (Dineen, Red Willow, and Still- Monarch line is a new venture for Latah Creek. 91 Mountain); $36. Released quite water Creek) blends into a smooth, licorice-laden The Zin, from the Coyote Canyon vineyard, young, this is a wine to decant. It’s big and dark offers tart berry fruit, lightly spiced, and a hint of Syrah with plenty of pepper and spice. The fruit and tannic, tight as a tick, with grainy, textural fresh herb. Clean and modest in scope. —P.G. tannins wrapped heavily around tart blue and is tart and clean, the acids appropriate, the tan- purple berries. Though the flavors are pure nins polished, and the finish long and interest- Hyatt 2008 Zinfandel (Rattlesnake Syrah, the structure and density are Cabernet- ing, with seams of vanilla, licorice, tobacco and 86 Hills); $15. Well along the maturity like, and though it’s a guess, the odds are this is a coffee. —P.G. curve, this has a butterscotch base and a very soft wine to cellar for at least a decade. Cellar Selec- midpalate, with hints of strawberry fruit and pep- tion. —P.G. Sleight of Hand 2008 Levitation per. The finish rolls into a seamless caramel fog, 88 Syrah (Columbia valley); $40. A tasty but diffuse. —P.G. Efesté 2008 Jolie Bouche Syrah sharp, acidic, tight, precisely-defined Syrah with (Yakima Valley); $36. Inky black, 91 cranberry and sour cherry fruit. This wine has thick and juicy with a mélange of berry flavors. OTHER RED WINES the potential for years of aging; even after being Laced around the voluptuous fruit are threads of dark chocolate, and the wine seamlessly moves open for many hours, the sharp acids and pri- Beresan 2008 Carmenère (Walla into a finish with even darker notes of toast, char mary fruit flavors remained, along with inviting 90 Walla); $29. There is very little Car- and coffee grounds. For all of its power, it keeps suggestions of soy and composted earth. If you menère in Washington, and Beresan’s limited and the alcohol in the mid-14% range, with no burn are not going to cellar it, decanting is mandatory. sought-after varietal offering is restricted to tast- at all. —P.G. —P.G. ing room and mailing list customers only. Bal-

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 anced and tight, the crisp red fruits are annotated jicama and white peach. Flavors are clean and pineapple—and juicy caramel, this appealing with hints of gun metal, toast and cinnamon. Just razor sharp. No alterations, additions, or finings Chardonnay is drinking perfectly. There is just a touch of pepper and leaf, along with streaks of are employed—this is as noninterventionist as it enough green apple tang to the finish to keep it licorice and vanilla in the finish. —P.G. gets. —P.G. fresh and focused through the finish. —P.G.

Dusted Valley 2008 Grenache Sparkman 2009 Lumière Chardon- Columbia Crest 2008 Two Vines 90 (Columbia Valley); $28. Rich, round 92 nay (Columbia Valley); $25. Creamy 87 Chardonnay (Washington); $8. and fruity, this substantial Grenache demon- and crisp—a nice trick—this refreshing Chardon- Light and pleasant, with aromas mixing baked strates the potential for this grape in Washing- nay livens up the palate with a mix of herb, celery, pears, citrus and honeycomb, this is really a ton. Though winter hardiness can be a problem, apple and Asian pear, rolling into a finish of lovely wine for the price. The fruit flavors fol- in years such as this, where it ripens perfectly, caramel apple and toast. It has a light touch low consistently, pears and apples with a hint the vines deliver a juicy, full-bodied wine brim- despite the 14.5% alcohol, and sits nicely in the of citrus, clean and refreshing, with juicy acid- ming with cherry and brambly berry flavors. back of the throat, inviting another glass. —P.G. ity. Best Buy. —P.G. Here it has a light dusting of chocolate from aging in mostly neutral barrels. —P.G. Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2009 Hedgeline 2009 Chardonnay 91 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); 86 (Washington); $18. A négociant wine, Hollywood Hill 2008 Mourvèdre $28. Young and still integrating its lush barrel sharp and spicy, with vivid acidity and some real 87 (Horse Heaven Hills); $34. The flavors, this savory Chardonnay should hit its punch in the midpalate. The flavors suggest this- Elerding Six Prong vineyard is the fruit source, peak in another two or three years. The fruit is tle and fern – real Northwest fare – rather than yielding a lean, smoky Mourvèdre with 10% full and fleshy, a generous mix of citrus, stone riper fruit. It sets up well in the mouth and Syrah in the blend. Clean and spicy, with tart and tropical fruits. Creamy and nicely textural in despite alcohol listed at just 12.5%, has good fruit flavors of strawberry and pomegranate. the mouth, it has the grip and acidity to keep it presence and power. —P.G. The tannins are drying and leave an impres- poised and detailed through a long finish. —P.G. sion of chalk. —P.G. Buried Cane 2008 Chardonnay Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008 Cold 83 (Washington); $12. There’s a lightly Roza Ridge 2008 Petit Verdot (Rat- 89 Creek Vineyard Chardonnay spritzy tickle in the mouth, and a metallic under- 86 tlesnake Hills); $20. This varietal (Columbia Valley); $26. Powerful scents of taste to this Chardonnay. The blend includes 5% expression of Petit Verdot shows a concentration toast and buttered popcorn dominate the nose, each Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc, all done in of coffee liqueur and vanilla flavors that suggest but once in the mouth the wine shows some grip stainless steel. Thin and a bit green, it does not that the barrels overtook the fruit. The alcohol and depth. For those who love the buttery style quite come together. —P.G. registers 14.4%, and there is plenty of tannin. If of Chardonnay, this will be hard to beat at this you want to taste barrel more than grape, it’s a price. Traces of apple and pear fruit show in the flavorful bottle. —P.G. midpalate, and the wine lingers gracefully into a PINOT GRIS full-bodied finish. —P.G. Columbia Crest 2008 Reserve Tem- Ross Andrew 2009 Celilo Vineyard 84 pranillo (Wahluke Slope); $35. Boomtown 2009 Chardonnay 90 Pinot Gris (Columbia Gorge); $18. Tart, leafy, with light strawberry fruit. This has 88 (Columbia Valley); $13. There is a Here is a rarity among rarities—a Washington little depth, just a pleasant strawberry nose and a lively, stony zip to this tank-fermented Chardon- Pinot Gris from old vines dating back to the simple, fruity palate. —P.G. nay that lifts the palate and invites sipping. The 1970s. Spicy and tart, with New World fruit fla- flavors are pleasantly herbal, with strands of cel- vors of melon and pear set in a wine with Old ery, cilantro, melon and green banana weaving World craftsmanship and sensibilities it's just CHARDONNAY together across the palate and into a crisp finish. 12.5% alcohol, bone dry, fully ripened, laden with Best Buy. —P.G. minerality. Vivid and long, it’s a gem that would Efesté 2009 Lola Chardonnay be a perfect start to any holiday feast. —P.G. 96 (Columbia Valley); $30. This is as Columbia Crest 2008 Reserve good as the best from California—textural, 88 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); Hyatt 2009 Pinot Gris (Rattlesnake creamy, a delicious mix of lemon custard, $20. With buttered popcorn scents and flavors, 88 Hills); $10. Full and fleshy, this spicy, meringue, caramel, papaya and toasted coconut. underscored with pretty, toasty oak, this marries fruity Pinot Gris offers fresh fruit and citrus peel At one quarter the price of comparable bottles, those flavors to a more restrained body, balanced flavors, balanced against tangy acidity. The fruit is this young wine just seduces from the instant it with good acidity and showing fruit flavors of a mix of interesting flavors – grapefruit, apple and hits the tongue. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. green apple and banana cream pie. Not a com- white peach. Good length and a fine value. Best plex wine, but forward and flavorful. —P.G. Buy. —P.G. Buty 2009 Conner Lee Vineyard 92 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); O 2008 Chardonnay (Columbia Columbia Crest 2009 Grand $35. Fermented in neutral Burgundian oak, this 88 Valley); $14. Soft and fruity, with a bal- 85 Estates Pinot Gris (Columbia Val- is crisp and stylish, and brings in tart Asian pear, anced mix of tropical fruit flavors—banana and ley); $12. At first sharp and focused, with sharp

WineMag.com | 77 BUYING I GUIDE aromas of pine and citrus rind, this broadens out the throat and rolls into a harmonious finish. — Fidelitas 2009 Optu (Columbia and thins quickly once in the mouth. Fresh green P.G. 90 Valley); $30. A white Bordeaux blend, apple fruit fades into a smooth, plain, slightly handsome and richly accented with scents of watery finish. —P.G. William Church 2009 Viognier toast and honey, the lemon drop fruit flavors are 90 (Columbia Valley); $21. Fresh and framed with lively acids. Quite delicious, beauti- beautifully defined, this textbook Viognier mar- fully balanced and despite its youth drinking RIESLING ries citrus fruit, peaches and honeysuckle to light quite well. —P.G. tannins that suggest lemony tea. Persistent and Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. balanced, with the alcohol at 14.3%, it is really a Hyatt 2009 (Rat- 94 Loosen 2009 Eroica Riesling lovely sipping wine, just right for spring. Editors’ 88 tlesnake Hills); $10. Labeled off dry (Columbia Valley); $24. This wine just gets Choice. —P.G. but with little or no sweetness, this is a unique better with every new vintage. Young and fresh, it effort, a rosé style with unusual length and focus. hits the palate with lip-puckering acidity, rolling Mount Baker 2007 Late Harvest Chill this wine and drink it as an apéritif. It is on flavors of lemons, oranges, citrus rind, and 82 Viognier (Yakima Valley); $21. Sug- most unusual—dusty, musky, and concentrated, then into mango and papaya. Though the residual ary, with a chemical aroma and a sharp, volatile with a fine finish that resonates with a Grand sugar is listed at 1.6%, it shows only in a pleasing finish. —P.G. Marnier note. Best Buy. —P.G. roundness in the lengthy finish. Delicious now, but entirely cellar-worthy for a decade or longer. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. SAUVIGNON BLANC

Hyatt 2008 Winter Harvest Ries- Columbia Crest 2009 H3 Sauvi- 88 ling (Rattlesnake Hills); $30. Suc- 85 gnon Blanc (Horse Heaven Hills); culent, dense and syrupy, this dessert Riesling $15. A bit volatile, with a hint of fusil, light herb brings a lush midpalate of honey, blossom, tea, and cut grass flavors, and fruit that is just ripe candied citrus, butterscotch and more. It’s loaded enough. Green banana and green apple, with a with flavor, just a little high-toned, and falls on soft mouthfeel and a gentle fade. —P.G. the soft side for Washington dessert wines. But delicious? You bet! —P.G. Silver Lake 2008 Sauvignon Blanc 84 (Rattlesnake Hills); $9. A nice, cit- Hyatt 2009 Riesling (Rattlesnake rusy nose suggests lemon and orange hard candy. 86 Hills); $10. Ignore the blue bottle, and With alcohol at just 11%, residual sugar is around go for the wine, a full-bodied, fruity, spicy and 2%, which softens the acids but gives the mouth- well-balanced expression of off-dry Washington feel an odd flatness. Drink up. Best Buy. —P.G. Riesling. There is a lot of peachy fruit playing against the mix of acids and residual sugar. Just a hint of band-aid in the finish, but extra airtime OTHER WHITE WINES can fix that. Best Buy. —P.G. Buty 2009 65% Sémillon/27% Black Box 2009 Riesling (Columbia 93 Sauvignon/8% Muscadelle 84 Valley); $25/3 L. Given that the pack- (Columbia Valley); $25. Fragrant with cut age holds the equivalent of four regular-sized grass, peavine and sweet hay, leading into light wine bottles, this delivers a fair quaff for the price fruit flavors of apple and pear. There are sugges- tag. Slightly sweet, it has a candied, bubblegum tions of sliced orange, and the creamy, textural character, light melony fruit and a granular, sug- mouthfeel derived from nine months of aging on ary aftertaste. —P.G. the lees. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.

Beresan 2008 Sémillon (Walla VIOGNIER 90 Walla); $15. This canary yellow Sémil- lon is always estate grown and 100% varietal. An Dusted Valley 2009 Viognier imposing 14.2% alcohol, this exudes a complex 90 (Yakima Valley); $26. Pure varietal, bouquet of beeswax, lemon curd and honey. Rich this beguiles instantly with a floral and citrus rind and thick, yet dry and persistent, it brings nose that shouts Viognier. Orange peel, lime, aca- together suggestions of grain, citrus and tropical cia flowers, even a touch of honey flow from the fruits. Best Buy. —P.G. glass; smooth and seamless, it coats the back of

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Spirits MD); 40% abv, $40. This fresh, delicate blanco Tequila with a sweet, coconut-like fra- grance would blend nicely into citrusy cocktails. TEQUILA AND TERROIR Not surprisingly, the older expressions also were lovely, adding caramel tones on this excellent ay the word “Tequila” to most people, and may be barrel-aged for up to two months and still foundation. the knee-jerk response is, “I don’t drink be considered blanco. Reposado Tequila is Sthat…anymore.” Usually a story of “rested” in oak barrels from two months to one Riazul Premium Tequila Silver overindulgence follows, perhaps at a college party year, while anejo is aged for longer than a year. 92 (Mexico; Jomada Imports, Lake or a lost vacation weekend. Drill deeper, and In general, most blancos are light and crisp, Zurich, IL); 40% abv, $50. Although this likely you’ll find that poor-quality mixto Tequila with lightly honeyed agave-nectar, peppery, or brand is best with some age and oak on it, the was a culprit as well. citrusy characteristics. But barrel-aging changes unaged version is no slouch. It’s still fairly mel- But it’s time Tequila had an image makeover: the game: After some barrel time, many Tequilas low for a blanco, with a soft feel and sweet fla- Stick to quality Tequilas made with 100% blue are reminiscent of light whiskeys, with sweet vors of coconut and agave. agave (not mixto, which may contain as little as agave giving way to more caramel, cocoa and but- 51% agave), and you’ll find an amazing range of terscotch flavors, and peppery notes evolving into Senor Rio Tequila Blanco (Mexico; flavors and artisan techniques. sophisticated smoky accents. These nuances were 92 Jalisco International Imports, As it does in wine, terroir plays a part in nowhere to be found in the college mixto your Queen Creek, AZ); 40% abv, $55. Pop Tequila’s flavor and character. Most Tequila orig- fraternity brothers swilled, that’s a guarantee. open the striking bottle with thick-cut glass inates in Jalisco, Mexico; those from agave plants While Tequila and reposado Tequilas surely stopper, and out wafts a spicy, oregano-like grown in the highlands tend to have a fruity, flo- can be used for classic Margarita and Paloma aroma. The spirit has an agave sweetness and ral, herbaceous quality, while in the lowlands, vol- cocktails, bartenders at the growing ranks of faint coconut note, and finishes a touch pep- canic soil yields an earthier, drier Tequila. “Tequila temples” are concocting exciting new pery. Particularly good for spicy cocktails. Further, a number of smaller producers specify drinks using this spirit. For example, Mayahuel, a particular estates where the agave plants were New York bar that celebrates all things agave, Tres Generaciones Plata (Mexico; grown. offers the Pilot Punch, a mix of blanco Tequila, 92 Sauza Tequila Import Company, Once harvested, cooked, and fermented, the jalapeno, yellow Chartreuse and lime juice, gar- Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, $35. A classic and agave liquor is distilled into Tequila. The unaged nished with cucumber and mint. refreshing blanco profile: pear-like scent and version is referred to as blanco, silver or plata; it —KARA NEWMAN crisp, dry, lightly peppery flavors. Mix this Tequila into Paloma cockails.

Partida Blanco Tequila (Mexico; 40% abv, $45. This bracing, herbal Tequila 91 Partida Tequila, Manhasset, NY); BLANCO has a sweet rosemary scent and a sweet flavor 40% abv, $50. Smoky and tomato-like aro- with perky peppery notes and a clove and mas, brisk flavor, and a lightly smoky, peppery Peligroso Tequila Silver (Mexico; menthol finish. finish. This smooth character has surprising 95 Young’s Market Company, Tustin, finesse for an unaged Tequila. CA); 40% abv, $43. Delicious and dessert- Charbay Tequila Blanco (Mexico; like, with flavors ordinarily expected from an 93 Domaine Charbay Distillers, Antiguo de Herradura / Blanco aged Tequila, not a blanco. Light floral and Ukiah, CA); 40% abv, $58. Neutral, slightly 90 (Mexico; Brown-Forman Bever- vanilla scent, sweet vanilla flavor with a bare vegetal scent, a little like sun-dried tomatoes. ages, Louisville, KY); 40% abv, $30. This whisper of smoke on the finish, and a creamy The flavor is sweet and smooth, with light cit- sweet and citrusy Tequila would shine in a mouthfeel. rus notes and a faintly spicy, warming finish. A Paloma. Sweet, almost pineapple-y fragrance great candidate for Tequila-based Bloody and sweet-tart flavor with a grapefruit peel El Jimador Tequila Blanco (Mex- Marys. note and a brisk, peppery finish. 94 ico; Brown-Forman Beverages, Louisville, KY); 40% abv, $20. Among the Corzo Tequila Silver (Mexico; Casa Noble Tequila Blanco (Mex- best of the blancos. The scent is almost like an 93 Tequila Cazadores, Seal Beach, 89 ico; Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, infused vodka, zingy, bright, citrusy and sweet. CA); 40% abv, $48. A clean, lean Tequila CA); 40% abv, $40. A triple-distilled low- Sweet flavor, with hits of lemon and pepper on with an herbal, grassy scent and soft feel. The lands spirit with a crisp, agave and lemon peel the finish. Smooth, soft feel, and definitely Mar- spirit has a neutral flavor with a mineral note scent and clean, citrusy flavor with a mild, cus- garita material. and finishes with agave sweetness. tardy finish and a soft feel. This Tequila is best with barrel aging—hold out for the reposado. Avion Silver Tequila (Mexico; Don Roberto Plata Tequila (Mex- 93 Tequila Avion, Manhasset, NY); 93 ico; Aveníu Brands, Columbus, Tequila Don Julio Blanco (Mexico; 88 Diageo Americas, Norwalk, CT);

WineMag.com | 79 BUYING I GUIDE

40% abv, $45. It looks silvery blue in the spicy, peppery, with a final smoky, almost gift-worthy blue-and-silver bottle. Inside, the bottle, but it’s crystal clear in the glass. Citrusy, bacon-like twang. Would be interesting in a spirit is light amber and scented with caramel peppery fragrance, grassy, herbaceous flavor. pitcher of Bloody Marys. and a peppery undercurrent. This triple-dis- Finishes dry and a little hot. tilled spirit has a smooth texture and a mild Tequila Reserva 1800 Silver (Mex- honey flavor, with a long smoky finish chased Familia Camarena Silver Tequila 82 ico; Proximo Spirits, Manhasset, by faint caramel notes. 88 (Mexico; Alto Spirits, Hayward, NY); 40% abv, $25. Petrol, herbal scent, and CA); 40% abv, $20. Sweet scent, with just a a lingering sweetness with a slight anise note. El Jimador Tequila Reposado puff of smoke. Sweet and earthy, with a The highlight here was the bottle stopper, 93 (Mexico; Brown-Forman Bever- jalapeno-like snap and a dry finish. which is creatively engineered to be a shot ages, Louisville, KY); 40% abv, $25. Pale glass. yellow tint, and a mild, lightly fruity scent.. Espolon Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Smooth, silky feel. This Tequila finishes mod- 87 Skyy Spirits, San Francisco, CA); erately smoky, with a lingering hint of caramel. 40% abv, $25. Mild, slightly coconutty scent REPOSADO Very nice. Good value for a reposado. and a neutral flavor with slight sweet and grassy notes. Some alcohol zing. Antiguo de Herradura Reposado Corzo Tequila Reposado (Mexico; 95 (Mexico; Brown-Forman Bever- 92 Tequila Cazadores, Seal Beach, Herradura Blanco (Mexico; ages, Louisville, KY); 40% abv, $35. The CA); 40% abv, $53. Golden. Sweet, vanilla- 87 Brown-Forman Beverages, expressions from this brand were very good and custard nose. Sweetness at first, then it turns Louisville, KY); 40% abv, $40. Faint yellow value priced across the board, but the reposado smoky, some caramel and oaky notes. It has a tint and delicate honey and citrus-peel per- was especially memorable. Pale straw color, light, even malleable feel. It would meld very fume. Thick, viscous mouthfeel. Tastes pep- pleasant mix of vanilla, floral and faint pear fra- well in a cocktail with lime juice and a sweet pery, with a slightly petrol, minty finish. grances. The flavor is sweet, with a lightly smoky liqueur or juices. Elegant rectangular bottle. finish with some vanilla tones, reminiscent of Plata Hornitos (Mexico; Sauza lighter peated whiskey. Medium body, smooth Tequila Don Julio Reposado (Mex- 87 Tequila, Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, feel. 92 ico; Diageo Americas, Norwalk, $25/1 L. Sweet, almost marshmallow-like CT); 40% abv, $50. Translucent golden color smell and a sweet flavor relieved by a clean, Cabo Wabo Tequila Reposado and pretty floral, light vanilla scent. This is a citrusy finish. finish. 94 (Mexico; Skyy Spirits, San Fran- relatively sweet reposado, with honey and cisco, CA); 40% abv, $45. Yes, this is the vanilla flavors, and a long, fairly smoky finish. Silver Patron (Mexico; The Patron brand founded by rock star Sammy Hagar, for- 87 Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV); mer front man for Van Halen. Stop rolling your Tequila Reposado Campo Azul 40% abv, $43. Honey scent and super-pep- eyes: This is a robust, addictive Tequila, espe- 92 (Mexico: International Spirits & pery flavor, with some heat in the back of the cially recommended for those who love peaty Wines, Mt. Kisco, NY); 40% abv, $30. This throat. This lively Tequila would be best mixed Scotches. The spirit has a sweet scent of ripe assertive, zesty Tequila is no wallflower. It has with ice and juices, since it’s crying out for oranges and vanilla, powerful butterscotch and a robust, smoky aroma backed by vanilla notes, sweetness to mitigate the burn. honey flavors and a raucous smoky finish. and a sweet flavor with a strong, smoky finish. This one wouldn’t hide in a drink, and would Cabo Wabo Tequila Blanco (Mex- Familia Camarena Reposado stand up to ice. 86 ico; Skyy Spirits, San Francisco, 94 Tequila (Mexico; Alto Spirits, Hay- CA); 40% abv, $40. This unaged Tequila has ward, CA); 40% abv, $20. This is a full-bod- Senior Rio Tequila Reposado a warm, smoky/peppery flavor, and the pepper ied, lush Tequila with honey sweetness and a big 91 (Mexico; Jalisco International continues into the finish. It’s not bad, but the butterscotch finish beneath a fine veil of smoke. Imports, Queen Creek, AZ); 40% abv, barrel-aged version is vastly better. Good value. $65. Overall, this is a mild, light Tequila, from its pale straw color to its relatively dry, floral Chinaco Blanco Tequila Excep- Herradura Reposado (Mexico; flavor and smoky finish. Even the feel is light 86 tional (Mexico; Preiss Imports, 94 Brown-Forman Beverages, and smooth. Serve alongside Sangrita or mixed Ramona, CA); 40% abv, $40. Slightly sweet, Louisville, KY); 40% abv, $50. This straw- into other spicy, bold cocktails. vegetal aroma. Sharp, earthy flavor, with a hued Tequila is highly aromatic, with floral and slight touch of anise and a clean finish. butterscotch notes. At first, it’s relatively dry Espolon Tequila Reposado (Mex- and smoky, but winds down into a long, juicy, 90 ico; Skyy Spirits, San Francisco, Dulce Vida Blanco Tequila. (Mex- caramel-tinged finish. Mouthwatering. CA); 40% abv, $25. Outside, the bottle 85 ico; Dulce Vida Spirits, Austin, TX); sports an edgy “Day of the Dead” label design. 50% abv, $40. This certified organic, 100- Casa Noble Tequila Reposado Inside, this light-gold liquid has a mild, juicy, proof Tequila has a vegetal, green-pepper 93 (Mexico; Wilson Daniels, St. slightly peppery scent and a surprising floral aroma and jalapeno-like flavor: sharp, grassy, Helena, CA); 40% abv, $50. Handsome, honeysuckle note with a lingering waft of

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 smoke. The soft, mouth-filling texture is off- faint yellowish tinge, a citrusy scent, and a THE WINE ENTHUSIAST set by a welcome alcohol bite. This Tequila mild, smoky flavor that finishes with some SPIRITS BUYING GUIDE would prove an interesting mixer for a sour- mint and anise tones. style cocktail. The Spirits Buying Guide is a summary of recent detailed evaluations and product ratings of a single Chinaco Reposado Tequila Excep- reviewer, Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman. Every tasting Riazul Premium Tequila Reposado 87 tional (Mexico; Preiss Imports, note is accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the full 90 (Mexico; Jomada Imports, Lake Ramona, CA); 40% abv, $50. This light gold name of the product, its alcoholic strength expressed as Zurich, IL); 40% abv, $57. This reposado is Tequila has a lightly smoky aroma with a hint percent alcohol by volume, the producer’s name, and the suggested U.S. retail price. If the price cannot be nearly transparent, with a yellowish tinge, and of butterscotch. A vegetal, smoky, spicy flavor confirmed, an $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices is lightly smoky and sweet on the nose and the is chased by a nice caramel finish, which is are for 750-ml bottle unless otherwise indicated. tongue. The flavor is intriguing: light smoki- unfortunately marred by a plastic-like after- ness mixes with a hint of cocoa, then a hon- taste. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS eyed, soft finish. Tall, colorful, striking bottle. Tastings are conducted individually in a controlled tast- ing environment. Spirits are tasted alone; no formal Don Roberto Reposado Tequila reviews are ever conducted in the presence of any pro- Tres Generaciones Reposado 86 (Mexico; Aveníu Brands, Colum- ducer or industry representative. Samples are tasted 90 (Mexico; Sauza Tequila Import bus, MD); 40% abv, $44. Beneath the sweet blind in flights of no more than six to eight products. Price is not a factor in the evaluation. Company, Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, $38. honeysuckle fragrance, this soft reposado min- This is a refreshing take on resposado. Fresh, gles oaky and smoky flavors. It would do well ABOUT THE SCORES tart green-apple scent and a bright, peppery in a cocktail with some sweetness to it, or a Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accom- flavor fades into oaky vanilla notes. A light long drink that adds some fizz and dilution. panying tasting note to learn about each spirit’s special alcohol bite braces up the spirit. characteristics. The numerical ratings correspond to Partida Reposado Tequila (Mexico; quality in the following manner: Reposado Patron (Mexico; The 86 Partida Tequila, Manhasset, NY); Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. 89 Patron Spirits Company, Las 40% abv, $58. Tawny color and lightly smoky Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Vegas, NV); 40% abv, $47. Faint yellow aroma. At first, honeyed sweetness washes Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. tinge, with a surprisingly light aroma, flavor over the tongue, then a raw and lingering alco- Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. and body for a resposado. Silky feel on tongue. hol bite takes hold, even through the pleas- Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- Lightly peppery, with a citrusy finish. antly smoky, herbal finish. This Tequila is critical circumstances. better in the lively silver or the richer, mel- Spirits receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed. Reposado Tequila Corraleo (Mex- lowed Añejo expressions. 89 ico; Infinium Spirits, Aliso Viejo, Certain spirits are designated as Best Buys. Spirits earn- CA); 40% abv, $40. This Tequila has a pale Dulce Vida Reposado Tequila. ing this designation offer a high level of quality in rela- straw color, and sweet, yeasty scent of baking (Mexico; Dulce Vida Spirits, tion to price. There are no specific guidelines or 84 formulae for determining Best Buys. bread. On the tongue, look for fleeting sweet- Austin, TX); 50% abv, $45. Even 11 months ness, then a long, complex finish of equal parts of aging in Kentucky whiskey barrels fails to SUBMITTING SPIRITS FOR REVIEW caramel and smoke. tame the sting of this 100 proof spirit. Smoky, Spirits should be submitted to the following reviewing fruity scent and vibrant yellow hue. Certified location: Kara Newman c/o 36 West 20th St, 3rd El Tesoro Reposado (Mexico; Field- organic. Floor, New York, NY, 10011. Inquiries should be addressed to Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman at 88 ing & Jones, Deerfield, IL); 40% [email protected]. There is no charge for abv, $57. Pale straw color and smoky, vegetal, Reposado Hornitos (Mexico; submitting spirits, and Wine Enthusiast will make brisk scent. It tastes the same as it smells: 84 Sauza Tequila, Deerfield, IL); 40% every effort to sample all spirits submitted for review. smoky, vegetal, and herbal, with notes of abv, $26/1 L. This Tequila has a light straw There is, however, no guarantee that all submissions will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All oregano, anise, mint. Lightly smoky finish. color, a floral-vanilla scent and a smooth, submissions must be accompanied by a submission form, tongue-coating texture. Although it tastes which may be downloaded from our website. Please be Peligroso Tequila Reposado (Mex- sweet at first, it finishes with smoky and sour sure to check the spirits tasting schedule prior to submit- ting samples. 88 ico; Young’s Market Company, notes. Tustin, CA); 40% abv, $50. Smoky, fruity LABELS scent like apples and pears. What hits first is Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their the alcohol bite, followed by vanilla flavor, lin- AÑEJO representatives are given the opportunity to submit gering smoky notes, and another wave of alco- labels, which are reproduced and printed along hol bite. This Tequila needs to be tamed with Tequila Don Julio 1942. (Mexico; with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone at Diageo Americas, Norwalk, CT); ice. 98 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or email 40% abv, $125. A stunning limited-edition [email protected]. Avion Reposado Tequila (Mexico; añejo. The golden color and caramel scent hint at Tequila Avion, Manhasset, NY); what’s to come: sweet agave flavor, a lingering Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at 87 buyingguide.winemag.com 40% abv, $50. Six months of aging impart a

WineMag.com | 81 BUYING I GUIDE whisper of smoke and mellow notes of tropical with warm honey, agave and Sauternes flavors brisk, smoky finish with a light undercurrent of fruit, Sauternes and butterscotch. and just a wisp of smoke on the finish.\ caramel

Riazul Premium Tequila Añejo Don Roberto Añejo Tequila (Mex- Dulce Vida Añejo Tequila. (Mex- 96 (Mexico; Jomada Imports, Lake 92 ico; Aveníu Brands, Columbus, 89 ico; Dulce Vida Spirits, Austin, TX); Zurich, IL); 40% abv, $60. This Tequila is MD); 40% abv, $55. Reminiscent of lapsang 50% abv, $50. Unlike the silver and aged for two years in oak barrels previously used souchong tea with lemon and honey. This reposado, the añejo expression of this Tequila for Brandy/Cognac production. The aging shows golden Tequila is fragrant with caramel and didn’t read as 100 proof – apparently two years in the bewitching scent of toffee and sarsaparilla, lemon zest, and tastes warm, brisk and smoky, of barrel aging is what it takes to tame this and deep flavors of caramel, , Tootsie drizzled with a touch of honey, and finishes tiger. Lightly smoky, cola-like scent. Mild fla- Rolls, honey and espresso. Weird and special. relatively dry. vors of lemon, agave, and oak and a dry finish.

Tequila Don Julio Añejo (Mexico; Senor Rio Tequila Añejo (Mexico; Avion Añejo Tequila (Mexico; 95 Diageo Americas, Norwalk, CT); 91 Jalisco International Imports, 88 Tequila Avion, Manhasset, NY); 40% abv, $55. Aged a mere 18 months, this Queen Creek, AZ); 40% abv, $90. Two 40% abv, $55. The smoky, vegetal scent of Tequila is well-balanced and sippable, with years of rest in a cask that previously held Ten- this gold-hued añejo is reminiscent of mescal, honey sweetness and a long butterscotch finish. nessee whiskey yields a mellow Tequila with a but has a lighter, softer texture. The honeyed coconut-like and smoky aroma, a soft feel, and flavor is quickly overwhelmed by a tingly, pep- Cabo Wabo Tequila Añejo (Mex- a light caramel flavor. pery finish. 94 ico; Skyy Spirits, San Francisco, CA); 40% abv, $50. You can thank former Tres Generaciones Añejo (Mexico; Partida Añejo Tequila (Mexico; Van Halen frontman Sammy Hagar for this 91 Sauza Tequila Import Company, 88 Partida Tequila, Manhasset, NY); great example of a classic añejo Tequila: fruity, Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, $40. This light, 40% abv, $67. Aged in barrels that once floral aroma, soft feel, and a nice agave-honey perfumy añejo is scented with floral, apple and held Jack Daniels whiskey, this añejo has a flavor that finishes with a slight peppery peach notes. On the tongue, look for lots of sweet honeyed flavor and finishes nicely smoky prickle. agave flavor and a lightly smoky finish. with a touch of butterscotch. This Tequila would have rated higher if not for the plastic-y Añejo Hornitos (Mexico; Sauza Añejo Patron (Mexico; The Patron aroma. 93 Tequila, Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, 90 Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV); $40/1 L. This nut-brown aged Tequila almost 40% abv, $53. After an initial touch of agave, Casa Noble Tequila Añejo (Mex- smells like Cognac, featuring rich raisin, fig, most of the flavor is on the big caramel finish. 86 ico; Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, honey and toffee aromas. Rich, deep caramel fla- This is not a bad thing. Vibrant yellow, mild CA); 40% abv, $60. This amber spirit smells vor with a peppery finish. Mouthwatering. smoky scent, smooth texture. smoky and vegetal, but with a lush caramel note in the back. It tastes just as the aroma Antiguo de Herradura Añejo El Jimador Tequila Añejo (Mexico; suggests, with caramel and smoke mingled 93 (Mexico; Brown-Forman Bever- 90 Brown-Forman Beverages, together. Where the reposado expression was ages, Louisville, KY); 40% abv, $40. This Louisville, KY); 40% abv, $30. This silky super smooth, additional aging seems to bring añejo features a peachy, lightly smoky scent, añejo reads more like Bourbon than Tequila, out a little harshness in the añejo variation. and a sweet flavor with a mouthwatering deep from the maple syrup color to the caramel- toffee finish and faint smoky note. Good value, bomb flavor that echoes through and through. Tequila Añejo Campo Azul (Mex- particularly for an añejo. Only a faint peppery not whispers “Tequila.” 85 ico: International Spirits & W, Mt. Good value. Kisco, NY); 40% abv, $32. A pale gold, light- Peligroso Tequila Añejo (Mexico; bodied liquid with a lightly smoky aroma. This 93 Young’s Market Company, Tustin, Herradura Añejo (Mexico; Brown- aged Tequila has a sweet honey flavor with a CA); 40% abv, $55. Save this aged, dessert- 90 Forman Beverages, Louisville, KY); smoky finish and a sharp alcohol bite. like Tequila to savor after dinner. This velvety, 40% abv, $60. Honey color and a big, sweet burnished gold spirit has a vanilla and pina-colada biscuit-y scent, with just a hint of smoke hover- Chinaco Añejo Tequila Exceptional aroma and vanilla custard flavor. Pair it with a ing in the background. A tickly pepper note 82 (Mexico; Preiss Imports, Ramona, creamy dessert like dulce de leche or flan. plays across the palate, followed by a major CA); 40% abv, $60. This light amber Tequila caramel finish that lingers on and on. had a warm caramel scent with smoky, vegetal Corzo Tequila Añejo (Mexico; notes. Like the reposado expression, the añejo 92 Tequila Cazadores, Seal Beach, Milagro Tequila Añejo (Mexico; had a caramel flavor but a strong plastic-y finish. CA); 40% abv, $57. Inside the striking rectan- 90 William Grant & Sons, New York, gular bottle, this spirit has a golden, sunny color NY); 40% abv, $39. This balanced Tequila has El Tesoro Añejo (Mexico; Fielding and sweet aromas like vanilla custard and baked soft honey color and a lightly smoky scent. A 82 & Jones, Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, pears drizzled with honey. Mellow and elegant, touch of sweetness on the tongue winds into a $59. A pale gold, light-bodied spirit with a

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 brisk feel and hearty alcohol sting. The scent landed somewhere between smoky and men- thol, bringing to mind menthol cigarettes. But the flavor was warm and honey-like.

EXTRA AÑEJO

Tequila Campo Azul Extra Añejo 90 (Mexico: International Spirits & W, Mt. Kisco, NY); 40% abv, $100. Aged 40 months, this extra-añejo Tequila has a light amber color and a soft, sweet butterscotch candy aroma. Look for lots of rich vanilla and oak flavor, a little peppery sting, and a tannic pucker on the tongue.

Seleccion Supremo (Mexico; 89 Brown-Forman, Louisvile, KY); 40% abv, $350. This Tequila, aged for a whopping 49 months, smells boozy and caramelly, like Bourbon, and has a maple syrup tint. Despite the oaky flavor and long caramel finish, a faint peppery touch identifies it as aged Tequila. Coddle this elder statesman with lots of aeration and ice for maximum flavor.

Tequila Don Julio Real (Mexico; 89 Diageo Americas, Norwalk, CT); 40% abv, $350. Blending Tequilas matured in American white oak barrels for three to five years, results in a mix of caramel, pep- pery, and smoky notes chasing around the glass. The effect is complex, but not com- pletely harmonious.

BLENDED TEQUILA

Maestro Dobel Diamond Tequila 93 (Mexico; Proximo Spirits, Jack- sonville, FL); 40% abv, $50. This crystal- clear blend of reposado, añejo, and extra añejo Tequilas offers a luscious butterscotch flavor and a potent alcohol wallop. Pair with a caramel-rich dessert.

WineMag.com | 83 BUYING I GUIDE Beer notes alongside accents of earthy spice and soft biscuit. The malt is more apparent in the smooth mouth, providing a supporting backdrop for the HERE’S TO THE HOPHEADS dominating pine and bitter orange rind flavors. Clean and dry on the finish. Best Buy. e all know the type: those crazy people astringency). Some over-the-hop examples are still who just can’t get enough hop flavor in widely available, especially in the DIPA category, Port Brewing High Tide Fresh Hop Wtheir beers. The feverish need for high but for those looking to walk into the IPA pool 93 IPA (American IPA; Port Brewing, levels of hops and increased IBUs (international instead of diving head first into the lupulin deep- CA); 6.5% abv, $6/22 oz. Pours a hazy, deep bittering units) consumed so many people for so end, a plethora of delicious options are ready to gold color with a nice white head and lacing. many years it almost seemed to be the motto of ease you along. Strong forest and grass aromas dance with the the American craft beer scene—the more hops, Other trends that drinkers should be on the citrus notes, constantly going back and forth on the better the beer. While certain people might lookout for include single-hop-variety offerings, which one takes the lead. Clean and refreshing in still find that to be true, bigger does not always such as the Founders Centennial IPA made exclu- the mouth with soft accents of honey and dough mean better, and in recent years it seems that sively with Centennial hops, and wet-hopped unfolding on the finish. Medium carbonation and many brewers have heard the message. offerings such as the Port Brewing High Tide an approachable abv make this an easy-drinking Don’t get me wrong—American beers, espe- Fresh Hop IPA, brewed only once a year to coin- choice. cially IPAs, are still quite hoppy, as they should be. cide with the Yakima, Washington hop harvest. It’s But just like many wine devotees who are turning fun and informative to try varying examples of the Harpoon Leviathan Imperial IPA away from overoaked Chardonnay, beer drinkers same beer style and consider the outcome that dif- 92 (American Double/Imperial IPA; are finally getting over the initial hop-shock and ferent varieties or techniques create. Harpoon Brewing, MA); 10% abv, $11/4 are searching for more refined, balanced options. Most importantly, experimentation allows you pack. Being a DIPA, there’s a serious hop char- The American hop varieties commonly used in to discover just what kind of IPA you like best. acter to this brew. It’s deep and heady with these brews still take the spotlight, but what is And isn’t finding beer you enjoy what this is all intense sticky hop notes of grapefruit oil and a changing is more of an harmonic convergence about? Put your hop hat on and pull together a touch of resin. Caramel malt appears in the vis- with beer’s other signature elements (a malt back- mixed IPA sixer at your local retailer this week- cous mouth, with a touch of rich pineapple and bone to support the dominating hop characteris- end, and get your research started! tangerine acidity brightening things up on the tics, balanced alcohol and an acceptable level of Prost! —LAUREN BUZZEO finish. A real pleaser for true hop heads.

Founders Centennial IPA (Ameri- sunset color in the glass, this IPA pours with a Southern Tier 2XIPA (American 94 can IPA; Founders Brewing, MI); serious head that clings to the glass and leaves 92 Double/Imperial IPA; Southern 7.2% abv, $10/6 pack. An assertive IPA that beautiful sticky lacing behind. The bouquet is flo- Tier Brewing Co., NY); 8.2% abv, $9/6 really shows what the style is all about—hyper- ral and citrusy, but the mouth offers more com- pack. This is a balanced and quite drinkable flavor and balance. Earthy aromas coupled with plexity with supporting notes of fresh peach, DIPA with sweet citrus leading the way, followed resinous pine notes and sweet citrus dominate, biscuit and soft peppery spice among the hop- by notes of crisp dried malt, red apple and juicy but they’re appropriately countered by a soft driven pine and grapefruit rind flavors that linger white grape. Fresh lemon and grass flavors fill caramel malt backbone. Medium bodied in the through the moderately bitter finish. Best Buy. the palate, with a pronounced bitterness sparring mouth with a creamy texture and a long, softly with the biscuity malt core. The finish offers a astringent hop-spice-driven finish. Surprisingly Founders Red’s Rye PA Ale (Amer- gentle warming sensation from the alcohol. drinkable despite the higher alcohol. 93 ican IPA; Founders Brewing, MI); 6.6% abv, $10/6 pack. Made with four vari- Avery Brewing Co India Pale Ale Port Brewing Wipeout IPA (Amer- eties of Belgian caramel malts and dry-hopped 90 (American IPA; Avery Brewing 94 ican IPA; Port Brewing, CA); 7.0% with Amarillo hops, there’s a superb balance of Co., CO); 6.5% abv, $9/6 pack. Pours a abv, $5/22 oz. There’s no hiding this West flavors here between the assertive ruby red beautiful slightly hazy golden yellow color with a Coast IPA; as soon as you pop the top, strong hop grapefruit and pine resin and sweet malt notes. sizeable white head. This is a classic IPA with aromas in the form of pine, grapefruit oil and Thick and lush in the mouth with a noticeable strong grassy hop aromas along with notes of tan- sweet grass emanate from the glass. The mouth is rye spice that meshes well with the other flavors. gerine citrus, caramel and toasty biscuit. Rich and just as assertively hoppy as the nose, but the Dry and earthy on the close, with hints of tasty in the mouth, the sticky, resiny hop charac- creamy mouth with medium carbonation keeps crushed yellow flowers, biscuit and red apple teristics takes center stage over the malt. Bitter things vibrant and from being too bitter or astrin- skin. pink grapefruit rind flavors flood the long finish. gent. A soft, sweet malt core keeps it balanced. Best Buy. New Belgium Ranger India Pale Deschutes Inversion IPA (Ameri- 93 Ale (American IPA; New Belgium 90 can IPA; Deschutes Brewing, OR); Smuttynose Finestkind IPA (Amer- Brewing, CO); 6.5% abv, $8/6 pack. 6.8% abv, $9/6 pack. The appearance of this 94 ican IPA; Smuttynose Brewing, Golden in color with great clarity and an aromatic brew is immediately inviting, with a gorgeous NH); 6.9% abv, $9/6 pack. A gorgeous burnt off-white head full of tart citrus and tropical fruit rusted orange color and a cloudy off-white head.

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Sweet tropical citrus, fresh-cut grass and a touch THE WINE ENTHUSIAST of caramel malt dominate the bouquet, while flo- BEER BUYING GUIDE ral flavors backed by mango and tangerine acidity The Beer Buying Guide is a summary of recent develop in the mouth. Smooth and full, it’s an detailed evaluations and product ratings of a single easy swallow that leaves an appropriate dryness reviewer, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo. on the end. Every tasting note is accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the full name of the product, beer style, alcoholic strength expressed as percent alcohol by Harpoon IPA (American IPA; Har- volume, producer’s name, and the suggested/average 89 poon Brewing, MA); 5.9% abv, U.S. retail price. If price cannot be confirmed, an $NA $9/6 pack. Lemony citrus and fresh green grass (not available) will be printed. Prices are for the bottle are the driving forces behind this brew, with a size or packaging indicated. touch of bready malt character adding a bit of TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS depth and richness. It’s medium weight with pro- Formal evaluation sessions occur in a professional tast- nounced carbonation and a lively, easygoing tex- ing room. Beers are tasted alone; no formal reviews ture. The hops, though certainly there, are not are ever conducted in the presence of any producer or overpowering or dominating. industry representative. Samples are tasted blind in flights of no more than six products; the category being Maui Brewing Big Swell IPA reviewed may or may not be divulged. Price is not a factor in the evaluation. 89 (American IPA; Maui Brewing, HI); 6.2% abv, $NA/6 pack cans. Sweet and bit- ABOUT THE SCORES ter all at once, it’s like a rollercoaster for your The numerical ratings correspond to quality in the senses with the two forces seemingly going back following manner: and forth on which one will take the lead. The Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. bouquet is all fresh, sweet, citrus fruit aromas, Superb 94–97: A great achievement. while the medium-weight mouth is loaded with Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. rich, toasty malt flavors followed by a sticky, Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recom- astringent finish. mended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Sam Adams Latitude 48 IPA Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 89 (American IPA; The Boston Beer critical circumstances. Co., MA); 6.0% abv, $10/6 pack. An inter- Certain beers are designated as Best Buys. Beers esting IPA brewed with hops from top growing earning this designation offer a high level of quality in regions located close to the 48th latitude. This relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or beer seems to be lacking a bit of fresh citrus fla- formulae for determining Best Buys. Cellar Selections vor in the hop profile, with earthy spice and hop are beers that would be good candidates for cellaring. oil notes dominating the overall character. The sweet caramel and toasty malt flavors fill the SUBMITTING BEERS FOR REVIEW mouth, with crisp carbonation and a smooth, rich Beers should be submitted to Wine Enthusiast’s head- quarters at 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY finish. 10549. Inquiries and submissions should be addressed to Lauren Buzzeo at [email protected]. There is no charge for submitting beers, and Wine Enthusiast will make every effort to sample all beers submitted for review. There is, however, no guarantee that all submissions will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All submissions must be accompanied by a submission form, which may be downloaded from our website.

LABELS Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their rep- resentatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone at 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or e-mail [email protected].

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 85