Bu Yin G G U Id E M Ay 2011
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A gaucho in full costume shows off in a Salta-province vineyard, the peaks of the Andes in the background. 2011 Y 2 I ARGENTINA A 52 I CALIFORNIA 20 I AUSTRALIA 72 I WASHINGTON M 27 I EASTERN EUROPE 79 I SPIRITS E 35 I FR ANCE 84 I BEER D 40 I ITALY GUI Photo © Andy Christodolo BUYING WineMag.com | 1 BUYING I GUIDE Argentina AMERICA’S LOVE AFFAIR WITH MALBEC id anyone in the wine industry predict expensive Malbecs arriving on the market, and that Malbec would grab the fancy of Schachner also reviews a number of Best Buys DAmerican consumers in the way that it this issue, including such well-known brands as has? Malbec’s success, like that of other grapes Graffigna, Santa Julia and Trivento. before it, has come largely unforseen. In retro- This month’s French coverage includes a quick Efeste ¯ 2009 Lola Chardonnay spect, it’s easy to attribute the successes of Mer- look at some remaining 2008 Burgundies, both 96 (Columbia Valley); $30. This is as lot, Pinot Noir and now Malbec to certain white and red, before the widely acclaimed 2009s good as the best from California—textural, characteristics of the wines—supple tannins and begin to arrive later this year. There are some creamy, a delicious mix of lemon custard, lush textures, perhaps? excellent wines, and consumers may benefit from meringue, caramel, papaya and toasted coconut. In this month’s Buying Guide, Contributing relatively modest prices because so much atten- At one quarter the price of comparable bottles, Editor Michael Schachner takes a look at the tion is focused on the 2009s. European Editor this young wine just seduces from the instant it latest Malbecs to arrive from Argentina, including Roger Voss also touches on some of the wines hits the tongue. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. top-scoring efforts from Bodega Catena Zapata recommended in his feature story, “Decoding the and Viña Cobos, among others. In volume terms, Wines of the Loire Valley,” which begins on page these high-end wines are a tiny proportion of 62, while Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Argentina’s production, but they represent an Buzzeo reviews wines from Languedoc. effort to prove Malbec’s “worth” on the world Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, check stage. They are excellent wines, but whether they out some interesting varieties from Australia, a are worth their price tags is something consumers mashup of Italy’s latest releases, and hundreds of will ultimately decide. new releases from California and Washington. In the meantime, there is no shortage of less Cheers! —JOE CZERWINSKI Stephen & Walker 2007 Cabernet Viña Cobos 2007 Marchiori Vine- 96 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain); RED WINES 93 yard Malbec (Mendoza); $190. $65. An absolutely first-rate Cabernet that not Young, fiery and rugged on the nose, but with only shows the big tannins and ageworthiness of MALBEC exotic notes that suggest Middle Eastern and Howell Mountain, but is made in a dry style that Asian herbs and spices. Like all Cobos Malbecs, calls to mind a fine Left Bank Bordeaux. It’s a Bodega Catena Zapata 2007 Nica- this is big, chewy, brawny and a touch medicinal, big wine, voluminous in tannins and extremely 94 sia Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza); with powerful dark fruit flavors, particularly black mouth-filling, and the blackberry and cassis fla- $120. Among Catena’s high-end wines from cherry, and a good deal of licorice, chocolate and vors have elements of dried herbs, minerals, 2007, Nicasia is the top performer. It shows allur- overall richness. Handles its 15% alcohol better tobacco and cedar. Already throwing some sedi- ing aromas of smoky oak, wild flowers and pure than many heavyweights; drink now through ment, it should develop in the bottle for at least berry fruits. The palate is a blend of smoothness, 2013. Imported by Paul Hobbs Winery. —M.S. the next eight years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. grainy tannins and fine acidity, while the flavors Bodega Catena Zapata 2007 of berries, chocolate and cola are layered just Argentino Malbec (Mendoza); right. Still the pacesetter for high-end Argentine 92 $120. Funky at first and simply not as smooth, Malbec; drink now through 2015. Imported by pure and clean as Catena’s Nicasia and Adrianna Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Malbecs, which are the components of this wine. Argentino in 2007 is deep and dark like always, Bodega Catena Zapata 2007 Adri- with coconut and cassis aromas preceding a Stonestreet 2007 Monument anna Vineyard Malbec (Men- 93 sweet, ultrarich palate that’s teetering on candied. Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon doza); $120. 96 Fruity, pure and smooth on the Quite oaky and chocolaty as well, with brown (Alexander Valley); $45. A dramatic wine, nose, and maybe more dry and leathery than the sugar and depth to the finish. Drink now through authoritative in tannins, bone dry and noble. blasting Nicasia vineyard wine. The palate has a 2014. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. Withholds its best under a cloak of astringency, deep, classy elegance along with power, and the but already shows its mountain terroir in the flavors run toward huge black fruits, coffee and Cruz Andina 2008 Malbec (Men- complexity of its structure and deep, intense chocolate. Finishes dark, long and minerally, and 92 doza); $20. A big, ripe and pure Mal- blackberry, currant, blueberry and dried herb fla- overall it’s yet another awesome top-flight Malbec bec with gorgeous berry aromas setting up a lush, vors. Should develop bottle complexities for at from this world-class winery. Drink now through yummy palate that pumps forth chewy, delicious least a decade and probably longer. Editors’ 2014. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. Continued on page 00 Choice. —S.H. 2|WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2011 Charnu 2007 95 Cabernet Sauvi- gnon (St. Helena); $75. Classic Napa Cabernet, with perfectly ripened blackberry, cherry and cas- sis fruit, nicely elaborated by sweet, smoky oak, and framed in ripe, smooth tan- nins. Really a lovely wine, Franciscan 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- with the balanced equilib- Bennett Lane 2007 Cabernet 94 gnon (Napa Valley); $28. A terrific rium to ride out the next 94 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $55. Very wine that proves you don’t have to spend a for- decade. —S.H. ripe, dense and concentrated. Although it’s totally tune for a top-flight Napa Valley Cabernet. It’s a dry, the wine shows massive, sweet flavors of deeply flavored, brooding young wine, filled with blackberry and cherry fruit. Impresses for sheer exciting blackberry, cassis and mineral flavors. Big power, as well as the length of finish. Cellar this in tannins, yet with a very refined, classy mouth- youthful beauty for 6–7 years and see what it feel, it should begin to hit its stride after 2014. does. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Bennett Lane 94 2007 Maximus Red Feasting Wine Marimar Estate 2008 Chico’s Run (Napa Valley); $35. 95 Doña Margarita Vineyard Pinot Tastes dramatic and youth- Noir (Sonoma Coast); $49. A very successful fully vital, with fat, fleshy Pinot Noir that shows the splendid characteristics flavors of blackberries, cas- of grapes well grown in the far Sonoma Coast, sis, mocha and sweet cedar, Hanzell 2007 Ambassador’s 1953 on famed Goldridge soils. Acidity marks it, crisp as well as a mineral tang 94 Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma and vital and nervy. Yet wrapped into the silky that grounds them. Very Valley); $130. Shows the dryness, acidity and mouthfeel are rich, elaborate cherry, raspberry, upscale and refined, a pure tightly wound minerality of all Hanzell’s young Dr. Pepper cola, pomegranate, persimmon and product of superior terroir Chardonnays, but with a depth of citrus and apri- sandalwood flavors that are intricate as a tapestry. and winemaking. —S.H. cot fruit that marks it as a reserve. It really war- A great wine that should develop bottle complex- rants time in the cellar. Best after 2013, and ities over the next eight years. —S.H. should develop for several more years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Migration 2009 Charles Heintz Envy 2007 Late Harvest (Napa Val- Joseph Drouhin 2008 Domaine 95 Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma 94 ley); $45. This very sweet wine was har- 94 Drouhin-Vaudon Les Clos Grand Cru Coast); $55. Spectactular Chardonnay, so pure, vested at 33 degrees brix, which for wine geeks (Chablis); $80. Taut, tight, steely wine that is clean and delicious. Defines the cool coastal cli- means lots and lots of sugar. Honeyed flavors immensely concentrated. This is classic mineral- mate of the Sonoma Coast, with brilliant, citrusy dominate, fruited with apricots and tangerines. It driven Chablis, the crisp citrus fruit and pear flavors acidity brightening long hangtime flavors of trop- is, in a word, delicious. Even better, it’s frosted integrated into a dominant structure. It needs aging, ical fruits, green apples and succulent peaches with vanilla and butter, and vital acidity is perfect. 5–6 years or more. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & and pears. A stunningly good, upscale Chard to A superior Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc that joins Co. Cellar Selection. —R.V. drink with very rich fare, such as ricotta cheese- the top ranks of California dessert wines. —S.H. filled gnocchi with grilled rock shrimp and Parmesan cheese. —S.H. WineMag.com | 3 BUYING I GUIDE Tres Vinicul- Beresan 2007 94 tores 2008 93 Viuda Negra The Industrial Zin- (Walla Walla); $35. fandel (Sonoma The new vintage of Viuda County); $40. One Negra (literally, “black of the best Zinfandels widow”) is a third each of the vintage. This Cabernet Sauvignon, Krupp Brothers 2006 Stagecoach wine is exuberant in Cabernet Franc and Mer- 94 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wild berry, briary, lot.