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TRIP 11: ISLES of SCILLY OK, So Maybe I'm Stretching the Point Of TRIP 11: ISLES OF SCILLY OK, so maybe I’m stretching the point of ‘trails less trodden’ by including the Isles of Scilly: they are after all pretty well-trodden by walkers, older ones in particular, since we find the gentle ups and downs more to our liking than the steep inclines of, say, the Lake District or the South-West Coast Path. However, I have my reasons – or is that excuses? Firstly, I know Scilly very well (this was my 7th visit) so I know all the best spots. Secondly, most visitors do one of two things: they either head straight for the Abbey Gardens on Tresco or they follow a well-trodden coast path round one of the islands; either way, they miss out on some trails less trodden and some spots less visited, which I shall be describing. Thirdly, I like the Isles of Scilly so much that I just want to include them anyway. It’s as if the gods have sprinkled these rocks and islands onto the Atlantic Ocean for our delight – and, yes, I have visited them in the middle of winter and still found them enchanting, if somewhat hard going when the wind cuts up rough. That’s why they have been dubbed ‘The Fortunate Isles’. This visit was over 9 days in March 2016. Here’s a map to show you the lay-out of the islands. The browner bits represent heathland; the green bits are farmland, grassland or scrub. Photo 4281: general map from the Isles of Scilly Guide 2016 (www.visitislesofscilly.com) 131: Holy Vale Nature Trail, St.Mary’s Photo 4379: first trail on St.Mary’s (you have to follow the route in the text) – Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly-guides.uk On landing in Hugh Town, I made a bee-line for Holy Vale, my fondest memory from earlier trips. The best route to it is along the A3111 (don’t worry – it’s a country lane), taking a right fork at Four Lanes End along Holy Vale Lane. This unmade road brings you straight to Holy Vale, a hamlet nestling in a hollow (Photo 3765). Photo 3765: Holy Vale with the Buddha just to the right of the palm tree I was glad to see that it now appears more pagan than before with a Buddha installed in the wall of the central island (Photo 3760) and a ‘Green Man’ above the doorway of one of the houses (Photo 3761). Photo 3760: the Buddha ‘guarded’ by a standing stone Photo 3761: Green Man above a doorway at Holy Vale Running south from Holy Vale is a nature trail described adequately by a notice at its start (Photo 3767). What the notice does not say is that the trail – at least the first part of it through the wood – is truly magical. You could play out all your fairy fantasies here, as I hope you will see from my photos. There is no one designated ‘spot’: the whole woodland trail of about 200m is my spot (Photos 3777, 3778, 3783). The path goes on a raised bank between lichen- encrusted trees and above verdant marshland sprinkled with spring flowers, which don’t show up too well in my photos. Several rustic bridges take you over ditches until you emerge onto an open marsh with fewer trees but still with plenty of flowers by the stream which issues from the first part of the trail (Photo 3792). Photo 3767: notice at the start of the trail Photo 3777: raised path between trees and above marshland Photo 3778: marshland with hardly visible spring flowers Photo 3783: bridge over a ditch Photo 3792: flower-lined path by stream leading to open marsh After crossing a road, the trail continues as the Higher Moors and Porth Hellick Pool Nature Trail, which is less dramatic but still beautiful (Photos 3796, 3804). The trail comes out at Porth Hellick, an almost circular bay, which looks very different at low and high tides (Photos 3809, 4141). Photo 3796: flower-lined path into Higher Moors and Porth Hellick Pool Nature Trail Photo 3804: Boardwalk beside Porth Hellick Pool Photo 3809: Porth Hellick at low tide Photo 4141: Porth Hellick at high tide Take the path along the south-west side of the bay, past Drum Rock (Photo 3811) and the rocky bay of Porth Loggos, to Giant’s Castle, an Iron Age promontory fort, which takes advantage of some massive rocks. Its outstanding feature (literally) is an overhanging rock which, unusually for Scilly, has no name (Photo 3825). Note: the correct name is “The Isles of Scilly” or “Scilly” for short – “The Scillies” is frowned upon by Scillonians so is not used here. Photo 3811: I can’t see why it’s called ‘Drum Rock’ – what am I missing? Photo 3825: moody shot of overhanging rock at Giant’s Castle You can then follow the coast round to Old Town, with a good view of Giant’s Castle from Church Point (Photo 3827). Church Point is at the end of the airport runway so duck your head when necessary to avoid the frequent flights from the mainland. After Porth Minick you pass some Old Town houses and can return on the A3112 (another country lane) to Hugh Town. On the way, you pass a bungalow signposted ‘Nowhere’, whose one-time occupants had a wry sense of humour (Photo 3929). Photo 3827: Giant’s Castle from Church Point Photo 3829: “I told you I was going nowhere” I recommend a short diversion to Buzza Hill for a great view over Hugh Town from by the entrance grave (Photo 3836). Or you could continue around Peninnis Head if you are feeling chipper – I wasn’t so I kept that trail for my last morning on Scilly (see Spot 149). Photo 3836: Hugh Town from Buzza Hill 132: Badplace Hill, Bryher Photo 4326: Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly-guides.uk The boat from St.Mary’s usually drops you at Church Quay. Traipse up the concrete road to a crossroads at the top of the slope where you turn right towards The Town, passing Bryher Shop on your right (worth remembering for later since they serve hot drinks when the cafes are closed). Go right again by the Vine Café and look for an opening between two houses on your left which leads into a field with a gap in the wall on its far side. A path twists left then right from the gap to the top of Watch Hill, which gives you a good view of the island and much beyond. The name derives from watching for approaching ships so that pilots from Bryher could be the first to offer their services in guiding the ship past the many hazards surrounding the Isles of Scilly – check out the number of wrecks on the maps. Descend on a path to the north that brings you to Fraggle Rock Bar and Café. Skirt this to the west and head up onto Shipman Head Down which is littered with burial cairns, if you are interested – more than in any other place on Scilly (or Cornwall, for that matter) so that it can be called a cemetery. Choose a path that takes you to the northern tip of Bryher, near the coast if you wish to view the channel between Bryher and Tresco, down the middle if you wish to explore the cemetery (Photo 3846). Note: ‘cairn’ describes a small, human-made pile of small rocks, while ‘carn’ is the Cornish word for a large, natural jumble of rocks protruding from the earth. Photo 3846: carn overlooking the channel between Bryher and Tresco Passing lots of impressive carns, you arrive at Shipman Head Cliff Castle whose ramparts are just distinguishable on the ground. Badplace Hill was presumably the ‘keep’ of the castle but there is no evidence of works on its barren top. However, it is a wonderful spot from which to view the north-west extremities of Scilly: North – Shipman Head creeps out into the ocean like a two-headed lizard; it is inaccessible to walkers due to a chasm between it and Badplace Hill so birds are particularly fond of it for breeding South-West – a good view of the northernmost of the so-called Norrard (Northward) Rocks: Scilly Rock and Gweal in the middle distance with my favourite rock, Maiden Bower, in the far distance; I say ‘so-called’ because they are actually the Western Rocks in relation to the Isles of Scilly, whereas the Western Rocks are actually located to the south-west and the rocks between Tresco and St.Martin’s are actually in the north – if you see what I mean South – over the broad sweep of Hell Bay (lots of rocks at low tide) to Gweal Hill South-East to East – across the barren top of Badplace Hill to Shipman Head Down, New Grimsby Sound and two ruined castles on Tresco, Cromwell’s and King Charles’, supposedly guarding the Sound North-East – over Badplace to the northern tip of Tresco, another lizard creeping into the ocean, and the distant outlines of Men-a-vaur Rock and Round Island with its lighthouse Photo 4374: to show Norrard Rocks (Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly- guides.uk) I assume Badplace Hill gets its name because it is a bad place to be on a stormy day, just as Hell Bay is a hell of a place to be on a stormy day, as post-cards attest. I would prefer ‘exhilarating’ but Exhilarating Hill and Exhilarating Bay sound ridiculous from a seafarers’ point of view.
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