TRIP 11:

OK, so maybe I’m stretching the point of ‘trails less trodden’ by including the Isles of Scilly: they are after all pretty well-trodden by walkers, older ones in particular, since we find the gentle ups and downs more to our liking than the steep inclines of, say, the Lake District or the South-West Coast Path. However, I have my reasons – or is that excuses?

Firstly, I know Scilly very well (this was my 7th visit) so I know all the best spots. Secondly, most visitors do one of two things: they either head straight for the Abbey Gardens on Tresco or they follow a well-trodden coast path round one of the islands; either way, they miss out on some trails less trodden and some spots less visited, which I shall be describing. Thirdly, I like the Isles of Scilly so much that I just want to include them anyway. It’s as if the gods have sprinkled these rocks and islands onto the Atlantic Ocean for our delight – and, yes, I have visited them in the middle of winter and still found them enchanting, if somewhat hard going when the wind cuts up rough. That’s why they have been dubbed ‘The Fortunate Isles’.

This visit was over 9 days in March 2016. Here’s a map to show you the lay-out of the islands. The browner bits represent heathland; the green bits are farmland, grassland or scrub.

Photo 4281: general map from the Isles of Scilly Guide 2016 (www.visitislesofscilly.com) 131: Nature Trail, St.Mary’s

Photo 4379: first trail on St.Mary’s (you have to follow the route in the text) – Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly-guides.uk

On landing in , I made a bee-line for Holy Vale, my fondest memory from earlier trips. The best route to it is along the A3111 (don’t worry – it’s a country lane), taking a right fork at Four Lanes End along Holy Vale Lane. This unmade road brings you straight to Holy Vale, a hamlet nestling in a hollow (Photo 3765).

Photo 3765: Holy Vale with the Buddha just to the right of the palm tree I was glad to see that it now appears more pagan than before with a Buddha installed in the wall of the central island (Photo 3760) and a ‘Green Man’ above the doorway of one of the houses (Photo 3761).

Photo 3760: the Buddha ‘guarded’ by a standing stone

Photo 3761: Green Man above a doorway at Holy Vale

Running south from Holy Vale is a nature trail described adequately by a notice at its start (Photo 3767). What the notice does not say is that the trail – at least the first part of it through the wood – is truly magical. You could play out all your fairy fantasies here, as I hope you will see from my photos. There is no one designated ‘spot’: the whole woodland trail of about 200m is my spot (Photos 3777, 3778, 3783). The path goes on a raised bank between lichen- encrusted trees and above verdant marshland sprinkled with spring flowers, which don’t show up too well in my photos. Several rustic bridges take you over ditches until you emerge onto an open marsh with fewer trees but still with plenty of flowers by the stream which issues from the first part of the trail (Photo 3792).

Photo 3767: notice at the start of the trail

Photo 3777: raised path between trees and above marshland

Photo 3778: marshland with hardly visible spring flowers

Photo 3783: bridge over a ditch

Photo 3792: flower-lined path by stream leading to open marsh

After crossing a road, the trail continues as the Higher Moors and Pool Nature Trail, which is less dramatic but still beautiful (Photos 3796, 3804). The trail comes out at Porth Hellick, an almost circular bay, which looks very different at low and high tides (Photos 3809, 4141).

Photo 3796: flower-lined path into Higher Moors and Porth Hellick Pool Nature Trail

Photo 3804: Boardwalk beside Porth Hellick Pool

Photo 3809: Porth Hellick at low tide

Photo 4141: Porth Hellick at high tide Take the path along the south-west side of the bay, past Drum Rock (Photo 3811) and the rocky bay of Porth Loggos, to Giant’s Castle, an Iron Age promontory fort, which takes advantage of some massive rocks. Its outstanding feature (literally) is an overhanging rock which, unusually for Scilly, has no name (Photo 3825).

Note: the correct name is “The Isles of Scilly” or “Scilly” for short – “The Scillies” is frowned upon by Scillonians so is not used here.

Photo 3811: I can’t see why it’s called ‘Drum Rock’ – what am I missing?

Photo 3825: moody shot of overhanging rock at Giant’s Castle You can then follow the coast round to Old Town, with a good view of Giant’s Castle from Church Point (Photo 3827). Church Point is at the end of the airport runway so duck your head when necessary to avoid the frequent flights from the mainland. After Porth Minick you pass some Old Town houses and can return on the A3112 (another country lane) to Hugh Town. On the way, you pass a bungalow signposted ‘Nowhere’, whose one-time occupants had a wry sense of humour (Photo 3929).

Photo 3827: Giant’s Castle from Church Point

Photo 3829: “I told you I was going nowhere”

I recommend a short diversion to Buzza Hill for a great view over Hugh Town from by the (Photo 3836). Or you could continue around if you are feeling chipper – I wasn’t so I kept that trail for my last morning on Scilly (see Spot 149).

Photo 3836: Hugh Town from Buzza Hill

132: Badplace Hill,

Photo 4326: Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly-guides.uk The boat from St.Mary’s usually drops you at Church Quay. Traipse up the concrete road to a crossroads at the top of the slope where you turn right towards The Town, passing Bryher Shop on your right (worth remembering for later since they serve hot drinks when the cafes are closed). Go right again by the Vine Café and look for an opening between two houses on your left which leads into a field with a gap in the wall on its far side. A path twists left then right from the gap to the top of Watch Hill, which gives you a good view of the island and much beyond. The name derives from watching for approaching ships so that pilots from Bryher could be the first to offer their services in guiding the ship past the many hazards surrounding the Isles of Scilly – check out the number of wrecks on the maps.

Descend on a path to the north that brings you to Fraggle Rock Bar and Café. Skirt this to the west and head up onto Shipman Head Down which is littered with burial cairns, if you are interested – more than in any other place on Scilly (or , for that matter) so that it can be called a cemetery. Choose a path that takes you to the northern tip of Bryher, near the coast if you wish to view the channel between Bryher and Tresco, down the middle if you wish to explore the cemetery (Photo 3846).

Note: ‘cairn’ describes a small, human-made pile of small rocks, while ‘carn’ is the Cornish word for a large, natural jumble of rocks protruding from the earth.

Photo 3846: carn overlooking the channel between Bryher and Tresco

Passing lots of impressive carns, you arrive at Shipman Head Cliff Castle whose ramparts are just distinguishable on the ground. Badplace Hill was presumably the ‘keep’ of the castle but there is no evidence of works on its barren top. However, it is a wonderful spot from which to view the north-west extremities of Scilly:

North – Shipman Head creeps out into the ocean like a two-headed lizard; it is inaccessible to walkers due to a chasm between it and Badplace Hill so birds are particularly fond of it for breeding South-West – a good view of the northernmost of the so-called Norrard (Northward) Rocks: Scilly Rock and Gweal in the middle distance with my favourite rock, Maiden Bower, in the far distance; I say ‘so-called’ because they are actually the Western Rocks in relation to the Isles of Scilly, whereas the Western Rocks are actually located to the south-west and the rocks between Tresco and St.Martin’s are actually in the north – if you see what I mean

South – over the broad sweep of Hell Bay (lots of rocks at low tide) to Gweal Hill

South-East to East – across the barren top of Badplace Hill to Shipman Head Down, Sound and two ruined castles on Tresco, Cromwell’s and King Charles’, supposedly guarding the Sound

North-East – over Badplace to the northern tip of Tresco, another lizard creeping into the ocean, and the distant outlines of Men-a-vaur Rock and Round Island with its lighthouse

Photo 4374: to show (Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly- guides.uk)

I assume Badplace Hill gets its name because it is a bad place to be on a stormy day, just as Hell Bay is a hell of a place to be on a stormy day, as post-cards attest. I would prefer ‘exhilarating’ but Exhilarating Hill and Exhilarating Bay sound ridiculous from a seafarers’ point of view. You can view the chasm separating Shipman Head by descending to the north and a couple of ‘holes’ by descending to the south-east (Photo 3853).

Photo 3853: Smith’s Hole with the two castles just about visible over on Tresco

133: Gweal Hill, Bryher

Make your way round Hell Bay, pausing to look back at Shipman Head, as well as admiring the rocks and ‘drangs’ (small inlets) around Hell Bay itself (Photo 3854). Once you turn the corner by Great High Rock the softer side of Bryher presents itself (Photo 3856).

Photo 3854: looking over Little High Rock and Hell Bay to Shipman Head and Badplace Hill

Photo 3856: Popplestone Bay and Gweal Hill from above Great High Rock

You can choose whether to skirt Popplestone Bay or cross the sands on your way to Gweal Hill. If you choose the sands, be warned that the rocks at the southern side are quite tricky to clamber over. Go round the north side of Gweal Hill until you find a path up to the top, which involves a little mild scrambling (there’s an easier path on the south side). You are rewarded with a handsome seat at the very top with the best views on Bryher (Photo 3868):

Photo 3868: handsome seat on Gweal Hill with a view of Maiden Bower

North-East to North – over Popplestone to Shipman Head Down and Shipman Head, the bowl of Popplestone especially beautiful

West – past Gweal to Black Rocks and Maiden Bower

South-West – over the jagged outline of Crow Island to Seal Rock, Illiswilgig (who thought that one up?) and Castle Bryher – it can be difficult to recognise these rocks without a map as they change shape so much with the tides South – over Great Par Bay and Heathy Hill to Samson, the largest of the uninhabited islands

South-East to East – over the southern end of Bryher from Samson Hill past the buildings around the Hell Bay Hotel to Great Pool and Timmy’s Hill, a lovely blend of hills and beaches surrounding the kidney shape of Great Pool (Photo 3869)

Photo 3869: Great Pool and surroundings from the east side of Gweal Hill

You can enjoy this last view as you take the path down the south-east side of Gweal Hill. Notice the house just to the south-west of the Hell Bay Hotel complex, between Stinking Porth and Great Par. It is the westernmost inhabited house in , visited by Nick Crane for the TV programme ‘Coast’ and looking rather good from across Great Pool (Photo 3873).

Photo 3873: the westernmost house in England with Castle Bryher and other Norrard Rocks Walk to the north of Great Pool (giving Hell Bay Hotel a wide berth) and follow a track towards some fields. Just short of the fields, take a right fork to emerge onto the ‘village green’, a green patch that is almost worthy of a game of cricket. Then turn left past the recycling depot to reach the crossroads above Church Quay.

I have not described a trail around the southern half of Bryher because I find it a pale shadow in comparison with the northern half. Obviously, Samson Hill has some decent views and there are some pleasant beaches but everything to the south is too low-key for my liking.

134: Bant’s Carn Entrance Grave, St.Mary’s

I divided my exploration of St.Mary’s into four separate trails, partly to save my legs, but also so as to take in the best of the interior. Unfortunately, this involves some repetition of inland roads. This trail does justice to the north of the island.

Photo 4330: second trail on St.Mary’s (you have to follow the route in the text) – Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly-guides.uk

Leaving Hugh Town on the A3111, you pass a garden on your right where a virtue has been made out of the ubiquitous Scilly rocks (Photo 3876). Opposite Porth Mellon Industrial Estate, take a path that skirts Porth Mellon Beach before arriving at where there is a busy boatyard. Halfway along the beach, you are forced to take the road through Porthloo Village. Turn left towards the Golf Club just after Porthloo Lane takes a sharp right-hand turn. This road affords an excellent view over Porthloo, St.Mary’s Pool and Hugh Town (Photo 3877).

Photo 3876: garden constructed around and out of rocks

Photo 3877: over Porthloo and St.Mary’s Pool to Hugh Town

Pass the golf clubhouse and head for the green nearest to Morval Point. Just beyond the green you will see a row of small standing stones. Find the path that goes alongside these stones towards and speculate on the significance of this stone row. Did it mark a boundary, a path or a processional way? Is it ancient or modern? Do you care?

Follow the path down to the Ancient Village behind Toll’s Porth (Photo 3878), enjoying views of Tresco, St.Helen’s and Tean to your left (Photo 4282).

Note: I’m going to give Round Island, St.Helen’s, Northwethel and Tean collectively a new name: ‘The Northern Isles’.

Photo 3878: Toll’s Porth with the Northern Isles and St.Martin’s behind

Photo 4282: close-up of St.Helen’s and Round Island from Carn Morval Down

Once there, you are greeted by a helpful reconstruction board (Photo 3883) and can inspect the remains (Photos 3884, 3886). Then stroll up to Bant’s Carn Entrance Grave which stems from about 2,000 years before the village, soon after Scilly was occupied by humans. The tomb has been reconstructed and is a gem of its kind (Photo 3887).

Photo 3883: reconstruction of the Ancient Village

Photo 3884: what is left of the ancient houses

Photo: 3886: over the village to Tresco

Photo 3887: Bant’s Carn Entrance Grave with Samson behind

Not surprisingly (at least if you know me), my spot is on top of the tomb where you get brilliant views from St.Martin’s round to Samson with the Ancient Village below you – plus, you can meditate on death: North-East – a communications mast and St.Martin’s

North – Tean, St.Helen’s and Round Island

North-West – the wooded ridge of Abbey Hill on Tresco and Samson Hill on Bryher

West – a pathway leading down to Toll’s Porth with Samson way out west

South-West – Carn Morval Down

South to East – Halangy Down: a few trees, heather, gorse and scrub, with daffodils in winter and spring

Take the path from the tomb through the electric fence and below the mast. If you want to view the menhir marked on the map, go down the hill and take the lower path. Turn right at the road and follow signs to . If you want to view the Long Rock Menhir, there is a path on the right just before two rounded pine trees on either side of the track with a corrugated iron hut a bit further on. In fact, I found the path more interesting than the menhir itself (Photos 3897, 3896).

Photo 3897: the path to Long Rock Menhir

Photo 3896: Long Rock Menhir (about 6ft tall)

Photo 3898: track from Halangy Down to Innisidgen

The track continues through and past a great swathe of pine trees (Photo 3898) and down to Bar Point where I was lucky enough to see the on its high-water route from Penzance to Hugh Town – much the best way to arrive in Scilly (Photo 3901).

Photo 3901: Scillonian III passing Bar Point – Northern Isles and St.Martin’s behind

Passing Little Porth, you arrive at Innisidgen where there are two more entrance graves from the same period as Bant’s Carn (Photos 3907, 3905, 3908, 3910). Innisidgen Carn is a lovely viewpoint with views extending from the edge of Tresco in the north-west to the in the north-east. However, there’s not much to see inland apart from the afore-mentioned swathe of pine trees and the two tombs.

Photo 3907: explanatory board

Photo 3905: Innisidgen Lower Entrance Grave with Innisidgen Point

Photo 3908: Innisidgen Upper Entrance Grave

Photo 3910: Innisidgen Upper and Innisidgen Carn with the Eastern Isles behind

Toddle along past Block House Point to where I suggest you turn inland to enjoy Watermill Lane (Photos 3912, 3914) and return via Pungies Lane and Holy Vale Lane.

Photo 3912: path from Watermill Cove

Photo 3914: Watermill Lane At Four Lanes End, I went straight ahead down Rocky Hill Lane and was rewarded at the far end with a side-path on the left through a flower-meadow (Photos 3916, 3918). Further on, I also noticed the St.Mary’s waste dump over to the left (Photo 3919).

Photo 3916: bluebells, wild garlic and daffodils in mid-March

Photo 3918: further on in the flower-meadow

Photo 3919: from Sandy Banks – it’s not all charming scenery 135: Brow, Tresco

I don’t like Tresco: it is privately-owned by a ‘benevolent dictator’ and is far too regulated and manicured for my taste. However, parts of it are really beautiful so I’m going to take you away from the Abbey and its Gardens and into those beautiful and less manicured parts.

This trail explored the northern part of the island. For this, it’s helpful to visit on a day of high water when the quay at New Grimsby is used for arrival and departure by boat since that saves either 2k or 4k of walking.

Photo 4332: Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly-guides.uk

From New Grimsby Quay, don’t go along the coast path towards Cromwell’s Castle but go round the harbour and take the first left along Back Lane. Take the first left again towards Beacon Hill and walk along the crest of Castle Down with views either side towards Bryher and St.Helen’s (Photo 4283, 4284). After a while you enter the cairn cemetery area but I couldn’t see anything to get me interested – I think you have to dig under the heather a bit if you want to find some cairns.

Photo 4283: Watch Hill and Gweal Hill on Bryher from Castle Down

Photo 4284: Men-a-vaur and St.Helen’s with Round Island behind from Castle Down

Veer left towards King Charles’ Castle. By tramping through the heather to your left, you can find the best view of both castles with Shipman Head in the background (Photo 3924). Rejoin the path to Charles’ Castle and continue onto the promontory above Gimble Point where there is a terrific view to Shipman Head and beyond to Scilly Rock, Maiden Bower and Gweal (Photo 3925).

Mosey on round the coast over Gun Hill and past Piper’s Hole (where there is a handy bench) to Castle Down Brow with its prominent carns. If you take the inland route from Charles’ Castle, you can explore the cairn cemetery and old tin prospecting pits. My spot on Castle Down Brow is along the rocky ridge behind the highest carn – I wasn’t able to climb it but you might. This is the best spot from which to view the islands and rocks around St.Helen’s and there’s plenty more to see besides:

Photo 3924: Cromwell’s Castle and King Charles’ Castle with Shipman Head

Photo 3925: from Gimble Point to Shipman Head and beyond

North – over Sound to Men-a-vaur Rock

North-East – past the carn to Round Island and St.Helen’s East – over Northwethel Island to Tean and St.Martin’s

South-East – over Gimble Porth to Merchant’s Point, Gimble Porth describing an almost perfect semi-circle

South – a bank of pittosporum trees behind Gimble Porth with part of heathery Castle Down

South-West to West – over the coast path to Tregarthen Hill with its two entrance graves

West to North-West – the north part of Castle Down with the carn above Piper’s Hole and Gun Hill visible

Photo 4369: showing the ‘Northern Isles’ (Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly-guides.uk)

If you go up Tregarthen Hill, you also find good views but not in all directions: the best two are over Castle Down Brow and Gimble Porth (Photos 3935, 3936).

Descending from Tregarthen, you join the coast path towards Gimble Porth. Notice an apparently dead tree to your right amongst bushes. There’s a path leading to it. If you want a sheltered place for your lunch with a view of the islands, you couldn’t do any better (Photo 3945).

Photo 3935: from Tregarthen Hill to Castle Down Brow with Northern Isles behind

Photo 3936: from Tregarthen Hill over Gimble Porth to Northwethel and St.Martin’s

Photo 3945: Round Island and St.Helen’s from my lunch-spot 136: Merchant’s Point, Tresco

Back on the coast path, you come to Gimble Porth. Here you enter the manicured part of Tresco through a gate next to an electric fence warning. To your right is a bank of pittosporum trees, ubiquitous in Scilly, usually between the fields. It was around here that one of the five foundation settlements was made 4,000 years ago (see Charles Thomas, Exploration of a Drowned Landscape, Batsford, 1985, p.104). You can see why: it’s sheltered from the prevailing sou’-westerlies and near the coast (though not on it, as at that time the coast would have been 500m away between St.Helen’s and Piper’s Hole).

Keep to the path near the beach round Gimble Porth and go up the slope and through the left of two gates at the top. Make for a boulder on top of a hillock above Merchant’s Point. Although somewhat similar to Castle Down Brow, this spot offers a different perspective on the Northern Isles (my new name for Round Island, St.Helen’s, Northwethel and Tean), a better view of St.Martin’s and a lovely view over the Island Hotel to Old Grimsby:

North to North-East – Men-a-vaur with Round Island, St.Helen’s and Northwethel lined up behind each other

North-East to South-East – Tean with White Island behind it and St.Martin’s stretched out on the horizon; you can even make out some of the Eastern Isles in the distance

South-East – over the posh Island Hotel to Raven Porth, Green Porth, Old Grimsby and Block House Point (Photo 3952)

South to South-West – lots of gorse with the green fields of Middle Down behind

South-West to North-West – the blue semi-circle of Gimble Porth with the dark-green ridge of pittosporum behind; the ridge ends in Castle Down Brow, pointing to an empty expanse of blue sea and sky to the north before Men-a-vaur is reached

Photo 3952: from Merchant’s Point over Old Grimsby Harbour Merchant’s Point is on the threshold between the rough northern part of Tresco and the organised southern part and I always like thresholds.

Descend on a path to the south-east which takes you through the Island Hotel and past the Ruin Café, where you can stop for an expensive snack and a nice view over the Northern Isles. Then skirt round Raven Porth to the quay at Old Grimsby from where there’s a picturesque view back to the hotel, St.Helen’s and Round Island (Photo 3961).

Photo 3961: from Old Grimsby Quay over Raven Porth with St.Helen’s behind

If you are feeling energetic, you could continue round to Block House Point and follow my trail around the southern part of Tresco (see Spots 144 - 148). Or you could follow me and cut back to New Grimsby Quay via Dolphin Town and its half-dozen cottages (Photos 3962, 3966).

Photo 3962: Dolphin Cottage

Photo 3966: the Meridian docking at New Grimsby Quay

137: Ginamoney Carn, By Porth Coose, St.Agnes

St.Agnes is the smallest of the inhabited off-islands (i.e. all except St.Mary’s). It’s easy to walk around in a couple of hours, with an extra hour for , the peninsular separated from St.Agnes by a tidal bar. This trail omits Gugh since it’s rather boring unless you are interested in archaeology, having neither good views nor attractive terrain.

Photo 4338: Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly-guides.uk From the quay at Porth Conger, turn right on the coast path past Porth Killier and Big Pool to Porth Coose, at the southern end of which there is a causeway leading to Burnt Island. Initially I planned to find a good spot on Burnt Island but didn’t feel like scrambling over 200m of large rocks to get there. And, anyway, I figured a better spot would be on top of a carn at the start of the causeway (Photo 3985) since it would be nearer the main body of St.Agnes and would have better views of the nearby bays.

Photo 3985: Ginamoney Carn at Porth Coose from Periglis Beach

I climbed to just below the top where my way was barred by an awkward-looking rock (Photo 3984). Instead, I circum-navigated the carn to appreciate the views – not recommended for anyone like me who is no longer nimble. The views were good but lacked height (Photo 3972) so I revisited the awkward-looking rock and found it was not as hard to climb as it looked on first inspection.

Photo 3984: the awkward-looking rock on Ginamoney Carn

Photo 3972: Burnt Island from the base of Ginamoney Carn

The views from the top are definitely worth it:

West – along the stony causeway to Burnt Island with Annet Island beyond

North-West – pretty much the same view of Burnt Island as in Photo 3972, except from higher up

North to North-East – over Porth Coose to Browarth Point; both Samson and The Garrison on St.Mary’s are visible in the distance

East – over Big Pool to Kittern Hill on Gugh

South-East – along the neck between Big Pool and Periglis to the centre of St.Agnes with the lighthouse prominent

South – across Periglis to Castella Down and Carnew Point

South-West - out into the Atlantic where rocks with names like Hellweathers, Melledgan, Gorregan, Rosevean, Rosevear and Great Crebawethan are progressively less visible; on the clearest of days the Bishop Rock lighthouse is visible 7k away

This is a less-frequented spot as most visitors take the short-cut from Porth Killier to Lower Town but in my opinion this is the best view-point on St.Agnes, revealing its west side and the Western Rocks to their best advantage.

Coming down, turn right along or behind Periglis Beach, passing the church at Lower Town, and continue along the coast where you will see a row of tooth-like rocks used for drying nets (Photo 3986). Past a small circular maze made out of stones at Troy Town, you come to the big rocks around Castle Vean (Photos 3990, 3991).

Photo 3986: rocks with net drying, Annet and Hellweathers in the background

Photo 3990: Castle Vean with Melledgan behind

Photo 3991: Castle Vean from the other side to 3990 – person against the sky to the right provides scale Then, on the far side of St.Warna’s Cove, the path goes over a stile and turns left up a slope. Just to the right, easy to miss, lies St.Warna’s Well, a pretty little hole with water inside and often containing some flowers as an offering – paganism is alive and well, despite the Christian rebranding of the well (Photo 3997).

Photo 3997: St.Warna’s Well, walking pole for scale

138: Wingletang Down, St.Agnes

About here, you leave the fields inland and come out onto the large expanse of Wingletang Down, the southernmost bit of inhabited England, unless you count the Channel Islands, which are really part of France geographically. Passing several little bays, you arrive at the southern tip of St.Agnes where you can see a row of standing stones against the sky-line (Photo 3999).

Photo 3999: standing stones near ‘The Beast’ on Wingletang Down I cannot believe that these are natural, standing as they do at the end of the peninsula with what looks like an enclosure or a courtyard in front of them. As far as I know, they don’t have a name but they should so I’m going to name them ‘The Brethren’. My imagination sees them as being used in the same way as stone circles – for my money that would mean rites associated with birth, death, marriage, animal sacrifice, the solstices and community affairs (no wonder the Church wanted to get rid of them: they were direct competition).

This hypothesis is strengthened by the proximity of basins in the nearby rocks, which could have been used for animal sacrifice (Photos 4000, 4002).

Photo 4000: basins on a rock platform with Castella Down and the lighthouse in the distance

Photo 4002: basins at ground level

The standard theory is that these basins are caused by the weathering of wind and rain but my objection to this is: why are these basins found only in certain places on Scilly and on certain but not on all rocks in those places? We will come across them again later.

Moving west, you pass through a whole complex of massive rocks, seemingly at the end of the earth – who wouldn’t want to hold their rituals here amidst the beauty and power of the elements (Photo 4004)? In the Stone Age, Scilly was one island stretching from here to St. Martin’s so this would have been the southernmost point of the whole island, sticking out into the Atlantic. Ancient people believed that the souls of the dead passed over the horizon with the setting sun to the Blessed Isles of the Dead. Perhaps that was part of what was going on here – a kind of lift-off point for the deceased and a place to connect with the ancestors over the horizon. Or maybe Scilly was the Blessed Isles of the Dead to the people of Cornwall, a staging post on the way to eternity?

Photo 4004: the end of Wingletang Down looking south-west in the general direction of sunset

Just inland from Grandfather Hugh’s Point, looking out over Great Wingletang Rock, you find a comfy seat on a rock from which to survey the whole south St.Agnes scene:

South-East to South – out to Great Wingletang and Gull Rock

South-West – past a massive penis- or cannon-shaped rock to the other great rocks above Horse Point

West – over heather and rocks towards The Brethren (not visible over a small hill)

North-West – over the Askins and Warnas to Long Point, Castella Down, Annet, Hellweathers and Isinvrank

North – the main body of St.Agnes with its lighthouse, viewed over Wingletang Down which is another cairn cemetery of graves hidden in the heather

North-East – over Beady Pool just below you to Tean Plat Point and the southern tip of Gugh

East – over Grandfather Hugh’s Point to the emptiness of the English Channel I am guessing that this, along with Shipman Head, is the most exposed place on the Isles of Scilly, jutting out into the Atlantic to meet the full force of sou’-westerlies.

The return to Porth Conger Quay is a pleasant coastal stroll past Beady Pool, Tean Plat Point and Cove Vean, with some cairns to explore if you wish. You also get a distant view of a remarkable rock called Punch Bowl, I’m not sure why (Photo 4011).

Photo 4011: close-up of Punch Bowl

Porth Conger is a pretty place with a convenient pub overlooking the quay (Photo 4014). Leaving Porth Conger by boat you can study the profile of Queen Victoria to your right (Photo 4020).

Photo 4014: Porth Conger Quay from The Turk’s Head pub

Photo 4020: Queen Victoria’s Head – or is that a gorilla?

139: Top Rock Hill, St.Martin’s

St.Martin’s seems to be the least visited of the off-islands, I’m not sure why. I find it delightful, so much so that I have found four spots – and it could have been six.

Photo 4366: Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly-guides.uk Conveniently for me, my boat arrived at Lower Town Quay (low water) and left from Higher Town Quay (high water) so that I didn’t have to slog along the relatively boring stretch between Higher Town and Lower Town and could spend more time poking around the rest of the island. As you approach Lower Town Quay, you get a good view of the Northern Isles in line abreast (Photo 4023).

Photo 4023: from the left: Northwethel, Men-a-vaur, St.Helen’s, Round Island and Tean

Head north past the Karma Hotel, where you can pay a lot of money to pretend to be spiritual, to Tinkler’s Point. Along this path you get the best views of Tean, where there was once a chapel, a cemetery, entrance graves, a field system and a settlement (not all at the same time). From Tinkler’s Point you have a choice of high road or low road to Top Rock Hill. I chose the high road through a ‘prehistoric field system’ but there was nothing to be seen – the lower road around Porth Seal would have been prettier. Top Rock Hill, though, is the most excellent viewpoint, as far north as you can easily go on Scilly:

North – down to Porth Morran and White Island, a beautifully-shaped hook at the northernmost tip of St.Martin’s; it has an entrance grave, cairns and a field system and undoubtedly has great views of the Northern Isles from behind, as it were, and of St.Martin’s; unfortunately, it also has a tidal bar which was just being washed over when I arrived so I could not carry out my planned visit

East – over the rocks that guard St.Martin’s Bay to Chapel Down and the red and white striped daymark at its summit

South-East – a sweeping view of the north coast of St.Martin’s, taking in Great Bay, Turfy Hill and the ridge that runs along the spine of St.Martin’s

South – over lots of heather and rock to St.Mary’s with a sliver of Crow Sound visible in between

South-West – over Tean Sound to Tean with Tresco behind West – St.Helen’s, Men-a-vaur and Round Island, almost separated from each other, which is unusual

North-West – the long finger of Pernagie Rock and Pernagie Island leading to Lion Rock at its tip, more or less submerged depending on the tide

I don’t know if the view from White Island would be any better – certainly it would not be so delightful in all of my seven directions.

Come down from Top Rock Hill on a little path to the north, from where you get the best possible view of White Island (Photo 4034). Just above the beach at Butter Porth, you come across a series of mazes of different shapes and sizes (I counted five) (Photo 4039).

Photo 4034: White Island from the top of the path from Top Rock Hill – note the foam on the bar as it is being covered over

Photo 4039: one of the mazes with Top Rock to the right and Little Merrick Ledge and Great Bay beyond Top Rock is an impressive carn with the profile of a face on its most prominent rock (Photo 4313). Just past Top Rock, you get the best view of Little Bay, Great Bay, Turfy Hill, Burnt Hill and St.Martin’s Head (Photo 4045).

Photo 4313: putative profile looks similar to the one on Carn Leh (Photo 4235, Spot 149)

Photo 4045: Little Bay and Great Bay, taken when the sun had just gone in

Then you get to walk a delightful path around Little Bay and Great Bay, sporting the varied greens and yellows of mosses, lichens and gorse (Photo 4047). I was heading for Turfy Hill to check out the views and again took the high road from Little Merrick Ledge but saw nothing of great interest so I recommend you stick to the low road until you reach Wine Cove, where you can turn uphill for Turfy Hill if you wish. On the way up Turfy Hill, you get another best possible view of Great Bay, Little Bay and White Island (Photo 4050).

Photo 4047: greens and yellows of the path behind Little Bay

Photo 4050: Great Bay, Little Bay and White Island from the side of Turfy Hill

Turfy Hill is tricky: there is no obvious way to its gorse-surrounded top. I had to go round to its south-east side to find a way in. When I got there, the views were extensive all around but I had to stand up tall to see over the gorse, so the unfriendly gorse disqualifies Turfy Hill as one of my spots.

140: Burnt Hill, St.Martin’s

Return to Wine Cove and continue along the coast path which becomes more adventurous from here to Burnt Hill as it passes Culver Hole Cave and the rocks around the bay. Burnt Hill was irresistible to me as a possible spot and so it didn’t disappoint. Pick your way through the gorse to the farthest carn for the best views:

North – Murr Rock interrupts the clear blue of the Bristol Channel

East – over the next bay to St.Martin’s Head and its stripey daymark

South-East – over Stony Porth and Bread & Cheese Cove to Chapel Down

South – along the rocks, heather and gorse of Burnt Hill Promontory to May’s Hill

West – across the previous unnamed bay to Turfy Hill with Great Bay and Little Bay in the distance

North-West – Top Rock Hill and White Island across St.Martin’s Bay

As you will know by now, if you have read other trips on this website, I love promontories and this is one of the best, giving you the whole north side of St.Martin’s in one grand sweep. It must be an exhilarating spot in rough weather as you are virtually surrounded by the sea, yet just far enough from it to be safe.

From Burnt Hill you again have the choice of high road or low road on the way to St.Martin’s Head: the high road gives you the possibility of finding Old Nick’s Table, a flat rock associated somehow with the Devil; the low road hugs the coast before climbing to the daymark. This was another contender for spot status but just failed on the grounds of having too much heather in the foreground, obstructing many of the views; also for having the daymark to contend with, which rather destroys the ambiance (Photo 4074). However, you do get a great view of St.Martin’s Bay and a view of the Eastern Isles.

Photo 4074: the huge daymark on St.Martin’s Head – trig point provides scale 141: English Island Point, St.Martin’s

Fork left as you come down from the daymark and follow the coast path around various ‘bights’ and Carn Wethers to Brandy Point. The views of the Eastern Isles improve all the time. Just after Brandy Point there is a perfect little beach called Perpitch. 200m further on there is English Island Point with a tempting carn on top. This is my next spot with the best possible view of the Eastern Isles from land and on the threshold between rough St.Martin’s and cultivated St.Martin’s:

Photo 4364: showing the Eastern Isles (Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly- guides.uk)

East to South – the Eastern Isles can be seen from as close as it is possible to get without a boat or a microlite – and most of them stand out individually rather than being hidden behind each other as they often are from other viewpoints

South-West – across Crow Sound to St.Mary’s, the distinctive shape of Guther’s Island and the southern tip of Tresco; in the distance, the twin peaks of Samson

West – across Higher Town Bay to Cruther’s Hill and Higher Town Quay; the majestic sweep of Par Beach fronts rectangular fields divided by pittosporum hedges; Higher Town sits on the ridge behind Cruther’s Hill (Photo 4081)

Photo 4081: over Par beach to Cruther’s Hill and Higher Town

North-West to North - May’s Hill and John Batty’s Hill are enclosed but left for pasture as the ground steadily deteriorates towards the heathland of Chapel Down

North-East – Chapel Down with the daymark as its crown

Only one snag with this spot – no convenient seat.

142: Cruther’s Hill, St.Martin’s

Choose whether to trudge through the sand of Par Beach or take the easier track behind. I took the track past fields and wild daffodils to the green, which does actually have an artificial cricket wicket in the middle so perhaps there is an inter-island competition. Before turning off for the quay, fork right up the road towards Higher Town. By the bench at the top of the hill, turn left along a track and turn left again after about 20m on a path to the top of Cruther’s Hill. Go as far as you feel comfortable with (the path deteriorates) and enjoy the views from my fourth spot on St.Martin’s:

East – along the perfect curve of Par Beach to English Island Point (Photo 4092), Hanjague and Nornour (two of the Eastern Isles)

South-East – over the top of Cruther’s Hill to the rest of the Eastern Isles: the Ganillys, the Arthurs and the Ganinicks, now more distant than from Spot 141

South – across Crow Sound to St.Mary’s, its pine trees and communications mast clear

South-West to West – Guther’s Island, Samson and the whole of Tresco

Photo 4092: over Par Beach to St.Martin’s Head and English Island Point

North-West – across St.Lawrence’s Bay to Lower Town, with St.Helen’s and Tean poking their heads round the corner of St.Martin’s

North – along the ridge of Cruther’s Hill to the houses of Higher Town

Cruther’s Hill is the best spot from which to view the whole area surrounding Crow Sound – all that is missing is Round Island, hidden behind Tean. An even better spot would be Guther’s Island but the boat doesn’t stop there (Photo 4088)! You have to return the way you came, stopping off for refreshment in Higher Town, if you have the time. I got three more good photos on the return journey (Photos 4100, 4101, 4110).

Photo 4088: close-up of Guther’s Island from Cruther’s Hill; Bishop Rock Lighthouse appears faintly in the distance

Photo 4100: the Eastern Isles from Higher Town Quay

Photo 4101: close-up of Nornour, and Menawethen from the boat

Photo 4110: Guther’s Island from the boat with North Island Lighthouse to the left 143: Toll’s Hill, St.Mary’s

This is the third of my St.Mary’s trails with inevitable stretches overlapping with the first and second trails. Most of these stretches are approached from the opposite direction so it’s not too bad.

Photo 4344: third trail on St.Mary’s (you have to follow the route in the text) – Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly-guides.uk

Start out again on the A3111 (country lane) towards Holy Vale but this time fork right (it’s actually straight on) just before Four Lanes End. This takes you after about 100m to Carreg Dhu Community Garden on your right. Quoting from their leaflet:

“The garden is sheltered from cold easterly winds and has seats in quiet corners. It is a perfect spot to relax and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere and to appreciate the variety of sub-tropical plants, shrubs and trees which have been donated and nurtured by volunteers since the garden was first started….. in 1986. Entrance is free.”

This is my kind of garden – forget about the regimented ranks of Abbey Gardens on Tresco (entrance £15) and enjoy this rough-and-ready haven in the centre of St.Mary’s, making a donation as you leave (Photos 4113, 4116, 4117).

Photo 4113: a seat less sat upon in a quiet corner of Carreg Dhu Garden

Photo 4116: picnic area in Carreg Dhu Garden

Photo 4117: another quiet corner of Carreg Dhu Garden Follow the track past the apparently defunct Longstone Heritage Centre (or perhaps it was still closed for winter) and downhill to a path on the left signed for Holy Vale. Just past the gate to the path, there is another gate into a field where you can find a standing stone with a hole in it at shoulder height. This is a traditional ‘hand-fasting’ stone for getting married (you join hands through the hole) but it is modern as you can see from the smooth surface of the hole – I suspect the Longstone Heritage Centre. Nice picture, though (Photo 4118).

Photo 4118: ‘hand-fasting stone’ (see text) in a field near Holy Vale

Take the path to Holy Vale and retrace the steps of Spot 134 to Watermill Cove but in the opposite direction. On the way you pass Maypole, a meeting of roads with a triangular island in the middle (Photo 4122).

Photo 4122: Maypole crossroads

To quote from Cheryl Straffon, The Earth Mysteries Guide to Ancient Sites on the Isles of Scilly, Meyn Mamvro, 1995, p.8: “The name itself must surely contain the memory of a maypole erected there…… Maypole may well have been the ancient centre of the island, not only physically but spiritually as well.”

If you’d like more details, the booklet is still available from Meyn Mamvro, 5 Carn Bosavern, St.Just, Penzance, Cornwall TR19 7QX for £3.50 (incl. p&p) and contains lots more esoteric information about alignments and ancient legend.

Once at Watermill Cove, continue from where you turned inland before, enjoying another perspective on the Eastern Isles, now to your north-east (Photo 4123).

Photo 4123: the Eastern Isles from Tregear’s Porth

Soon you hit Toll’s Hill where a convenient bench awaits you. From here you get pleasant views inland and along the coast with sea views from Tresco to the Eastern Isles:

West – along the coast to Watermill Cove with the swathe of pine trees passed previously standing on the horizon

North-West – past Innisidgen to the wooded slopes of north Tresco and to the Northern Isles, each one distinct from this angle, with Guther’s Island in front of Tean

North-West to North – over Crow Sound to the western side of St.Martin’s

North to North-East - over Crow Sound to the eastern side of St.Martin’s with the Eastern Isles lying between; Little Ganilly and the Arthurs sit in front of Nornour and Great Ganilly so it’s hard to tell which is which; Hanjague is hidden behind Great Ganilly – still a lovely view, though

East – out to the open sea; on a clear day, the Penwith Peninsula in Cornwall can be seen

South-East – Toll’s Island fills the scene, sometimes separated from St.Mary’s by a tidal bar; in the foreground a stout row of daffodils and a weather-beaten tree

South-East to South-West – across Bay to Mount Trodden Point followed to the south by a great rock, more pine trees and heather and gorse The spot is made more attractive, especially in spring, by its immediate surroundings: the bench, the row of daffodils, a bank surrounding the grassy plateau, the tree and the rock. Definitely a spot to linger……Tear yourself away and waltz round Gilbert Porth, relishing the green, flower-decked path – in spring anyway (Photo 4134).

Photo 4134: flower-decked path round Gilbert Porth

The next point of interest is Porth Hellick Down – the chambered tombs on Normandy Down are nothing special and I didn’t even notice the Twin Sisters Rocks. Porth Hellick Down, however, is another cairn cemetery, though with fewer graves than Shipman Head Down, Castle Down or Wingletang Down; plus it has huge basin rocks to feed your imagination – well, mine, anyway (Photo 4136, 4140) and another entrance grave to rival Bant’s Carn and Innisidgen (Photo 4137).

Photo 4136: basin rocks near Porth Hellick Point – Porth Hellick behind

Photo 4140: Basin Rock on Porth Hellick Down with the entrance grave on the skyline

Photo 4137: Porth Hellick Down Entrance Grave

The Loaded Camel Rock is accurately named when viewed from the north-east as you return to Porth Hellick where my first St.Mary’s trail passed by (Photo 4141, Spot 131). Go back up the Higher Moors Nature Trail to the A3110 then it’s only a mile back to Hugh Town.

144: Carn Near, Tresco

I almost gave south Tresco a miss for the reasons already stated (see Spot 135) but am super- glad I didn’t because this was the best day of my trip for weather, memorable spots and (I hope you will agree) ravishing photos.

Photo 4346: Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly-guides.uk

This time the boat dropped me at Carn Near Quay (low water) and picked me up at New Grimsby Quay which fitted with my planned trail in an anti-clockwise direction. Whilst everyone else on the boat made a bee-line for the Abbey Gardens, I went round to the left and up Carn Near, one of the best viewpoints in Scilly. Cheryl Stratton suggests this as the heart of a ritual complex when Scilly was one large island called Ennor: “nearly all the other islands circle around like precious stones on a necklace” (p.19). Again, consult her booklet (see Spot 143) for detail:

North – across Appletree Beach and Appletree Banks to Abbey Hill, a wooded ridge stretching across the south of the island; Carn Near Road weaves a graceful curve through the sand-hills

North-East – across Bathinghouse Porth (the Victorians must have been here) to Green Island, with Pentle Bay and St.Martin’s beyond; this scene would look very different at high tide when many of the ledges and low-lying islands would be submerged

North-East to East - across Crow Sound to the distant Eastern Isles

East to South – the whole of the west side of St.Mary’s with Carn Near Quay just below you South to South-West – across St.Mary’s Road (the water between St.Mary’s and Samson) to St.Agnes and Annet

South-West to West – across The Channel (a narrow way through sand-banks at low tide) to Samson, the shallow waters showing all shades of green, turquoise and blue

North-West – across Tresco Flats (shallow waters that disappear at really low tides) to the east coast of Bryher and Plumb Hill on Tresco

As Cheryl Stratton observes, all the main Isles of Scilly can be seen, giving Carn Near a possible status as the centre-point of the ancient island of Ennor (Photo 4351).

Photo 4351: map showing the line of the coast about 2,000 BC, i.e. the outer line (Map copyright Neil Reid and Friendly Guides 1994, www.friendly-guides.uk)

If you want further evidence of the ritual significance of this spot, check out the massive basin in one of the top rocks of Carn Near (Photo 4152). Note that the other rocks do not have such a basin.

Photo 4152: basin on top of Carn Near – the Garrison, St.Agnes and Annet on the horizon Start out on Carn Near Road but turn right after about 400m on a path through high sand dunes past Figtree Rocks and then turn left towards Abbey Pool. One advantage of this path is that you don’t have to pass the hideous heliport on Abbey Green; a second advantage is the view over Abbey Pool to Tresco Abbey (Photo 4156). A little further on you come to Great Pool with a terrific view down its length (Photo 4160).

Photo 4156: Tresco Abbey seen over Abbey Pool

Photo 4160: from the south-east end of Great Pool

145: Block House Point, Tresco

Strike out northwards on Borough Road past Pentle House and Rowesfield Cottage, both sheltered prettily by surrounding hills and trees. Opposite a small standing stone on the right, there is a track leading north-west into the wood. Take it and very soon turn right on a side- track through an impressive avenue of pine trees, coming out just short of Parting Carn. Continue along past Borough to a bench on a tiny hillock where Racket Town Lane goes off to the left. A more perfect lunch spot it would be hard to imagine, with a glorious panorama from Dolphin Town past Old Grimsby to Merchant’s Point (Photo 4165).

Photo 4165: seat with view from Dolphin Town (left) to Merchant’s Point

Follow the road down Tommy’s Hill past Smugglers Cottage to a path on the right just after the wood ends that takes you directly to The Blockhouse. You can walk around this old fort until you hit your favourite spot. Mine allowed these views:

North – over Old Grimsby Harbour to Northwethel and St.Helen’s (hiding Round Island)

North-East to East – over Cook’s Bar to Tean and the south-west side of St.Martin’s as far as Cruther’s Hill

East to South-East – over Blockhouse Beach to the Eastern Isles with Guther’s Island in front of the Ganinicks

South-East – along the coast of Tresco to Crow Sound, with the northern tip of St.Mary’s in the distance

South – the Blockhouse walls

West to North-West – an aesthetically-pleasing view of Green Porth and Raven Porth round to Merchant’s Point – if this isn’t the Golden Mean, I don’t know what is

All around are top-notch views but my favourite is over Blockhouse Beach to Tean, St.Martin’s and the Eastern Isles (Photo 4175), with the view of Green Porth etc. a close second (Photo 4173).

Photo 4175: from Block House Point to Tean, St.Martin’s and the Eastern Isles

Photo 4173: from Block House Point over Old Grimsby Harbour to Merchant’s Point

Return the way you came past Smugglers Cottage (Photo 4166) and wander up Racket Town Lane where I got another view of Old Grimsby Harbour – with a more interesting foreground (Photo 4178). Pass the dump and Racket Town Carn to arrive at the tennis courts.

Photo 4166: Smugglers Cottage

Photo 4178: Old Grimsby Harbour from Racket Town Lane

146: David Hunt Hide, Great Pool, Tresco

This next spot is an ‘optional extra’ on the south Tresco trail for those with energy to spare, as I did on such a glorious day. I was curious about the scenery around Great Pool – was it as good as the view from its eastern end (Photo 4160, Spot 144)? So I set off along Pool Road, passing the Swarovski Hide (enough said) and enjoying the calmness and the flowers of the pool-side track. Coming to a second hide (dedicated to David Hunt so that was OK), I investigated and found an unexpected spot (the others I had predicted):

East – past the rushes along the side of the pool to the promontory jutting out to the north of Tresco Abbey

South-East to West – across the faintly-rippling waters to the dark trees of Abbey Wood

North-West – past a more dense row of rushes to the north-west end of the pool where the main Tresco buildings can be seen

North to North-East – lots of rushes with pine trees beyond A more tranquil spot I cannot imagine (sorry to use that one again). Perhaps that was because there were no water-fowl on display. The causeway leading to the hide afforded the opportunity for an arty photo (Photo 4186).

Photo 4186: ‘a window into the void’

At this point, choose whether to retrace your steps to the tennis courts or continue round Great Pool. I can tell you that there is nothing much more to see if you take the long route round the pool: more pine trees, the view along the pool you’ve already seen, a close-up of the Abbey and a long walk along Abbey Drive beneath overhanging trees and between luxuriant shrubs with no distant views. Of course, you could try the Abbey Gardens if that’s your thing.

147: Plumb Hill, Tresco

At the end of Pool Road / Abbey Drive turn left along Appletree Road and pop round the corner of Plumb Hill to take a look at the coast to Appletree Point. About 50m round the corner you can scramble up the bank to climb Plumb Hill, where you will not be surprised to find an ancient bench (Photo 4198) and some delightful views awaiting you:

Photo 4198: bench on Plumb Hill with Samson Hill and south Bryher behind

North to North-West – the main village of Tresco centred around Abbey Farm buildings, with Vane Hill and Racket Town Carn behind

East – you can see only the western tip of Great Pool; otherwise it’s the gorse and pine of Abbey Wood

South-East – along the south-east escarpment of Abbey Hill to a monument in a clearing; Appletree Road carves a graceful line between the escarpment and green fields below

South – across said green fields and a stony beach to Appletree Point; hardly visible in the distance lie Gugh and St.Agnes

South-West – across Tresco Flats to Samson and Samson Hill on Bryher

West to North-West – across New Grimsby Harbour to the rest of Bryher from Green Bay to Hangman Island, with Farm Beach in the foreground

North-West to North – across a green open space and New Grimsby Harbour to New Grimsby Quay and Castle Down with the two castles visible at the end

For me, it’s a toss-up between this and the east coast spots as to which is the loveliest – they are all gloriously memorable. You can come down – and climb up, if you wish – by an easier route: turn left to find a track that comes out near the end of Abbey Drive. Go north through the village where you will find an up-market (and predictably expensive) supermarket and other amenities.

148: Vane Hill, Tresco

You might think that one more Tresco spot is gilding the lily and you would be right, except for one significant (to me) fact – to be revealed in due course.

I wanted to check out Vane Hill but couldn’t see a way up without going round by Racket Town Carn. So I gave it a miss, being pretty tired and short of time. However, on reaching Timothy’s Corner, I spied a path up. Trouble was I would have to go through a private garden to reach it so I can’t recommend this route, although I took it myself. At the end of the garden there was a notice pointing left for the New Inn so I’m guessing the permitted path starts on the Dolphin Town Road opposite the entrance to the New Inn. It’s quite a tough scramble to the top, especially after a hard day’s walking, but, of course, it’s worth it: again you are greeted by a rustic stone bench amongst the gorse (Photo 4214). The views aren’t bad either:

Photo 4214: stone bench on Vane Hill with New Grimsby Quay and Shipman Head Down

North-West – across New Grimsby Harbour to Shipman Head Down

North to North-East – along the west slope of Vane Hill to Dolphin Town, with Men-a-vaur, Merchant’s Point, Round Island and St.Helen’s all visible

East – along Vane Hill to what I assume is the Tresco water tank

South-East – across the gorse-covered south slope of Vane Hill to Great Pool and Abbey Wood; you can see almost all of Great Pool, with St.Mary’s in the distance

South to South-West – past the village to Plumb Hill, Samson and Samson Hill on Bryher

West – most of Bryher from Green Bay to Shipman Head Down (but not Shipman Head); also visible between Gweal Hill and Timmy’s Hill is Maiden Bower (Photo 4213), while Castle Bryher, Illiswilgig and Seal Rock appear between Timmy’s Hill and Samson Hill

Photo 4213: close-up of Maiden Bower seen from Vane Hill I have already said that Maiden Bower is my favourite rock. Now I want to explain why. I like its distinctive cleft when viewed from the east; I like the idea that it was probably the furthest outpost to the west of Ennor, the mainland when most of Scilly was one island about 4,000 years ago (Late Stone and Early Bronze Ages – see black and white map at Spot 144); and I like its name, which conjures up for me fanciful images of maidens going there for promenading and courtship – the gap between it and Seal Rock is called ‘The Garden of the Maiden Bower’ and would no doubt have been very beautiful. So Maiden Bower has always been a talisman of the Isles of Scilly for me and I wanted to conclude my Tresco trail with a spot that frames it between hills on my favourite island, Bryher.

From the boat back to St.Mary’s I was able to score some goodish photos of Appletree Bay. Indulge me (Photos 4219, 4221, 4222); plus there’s yet another view of the Eastern Isles.

Photo 4219: general view of Appletree Bay from Abbey Wood (left) to Carn Near (right)

Photo 4221: close-up of Appletree Bay with Great Rock visible to the left

Photo 4222: Tresco Abbey seen over Chinks and Appletree Bay

149: Peninnis Head, St.Mary’s

I left this fourth trail on St.Mary’s for my final morning and it fitted in nicely before catching the afternoon departure of the Scillonian III.

Photo 4349: Map copyright Friendly Guides 2016, www.friendly-guides.uk Take our old friend the A3111 out of Hugh Town as far as the turn for Porthloo at Rosehill. On the right is the entrance to the Nature Trail. While not as spectacular as the Holy Vale Nature Trail (see Spot 131), it is still worth a wander through. Much of it is attractively enclosed (Photos 4227, 4229). Just before the end at Old Town, you get a view to the left of Old Town Castle, which used to be the headquarters of St.Mary’s before Old Town was replaced by Hugh Town as the main port. You can still see the walls but not much else (Photo 4230). The castle itself is inaccessible (I tried).

Photos 4227 & 4229: the Lower Moors Nature Trail

Photo 4230: Old Town Castle

Turn right at Old Town and skirt its bay to Old Town Church where, if you are interested, you can find the grave of Harold Wilson, my favourite prime minister since I knew what a prime minister was (about 1951), which isn’t saying much, admittedly (Photo 4233). He’s in the less attractive overflow graveyard whereas the main churchyard is worth another photo (Photo 4234).

Photo 4233: Harold Wilson’s gravestone – Scilly was his favourite holiday place

Photo 4234: Old Town Churchyard and Church

Next comes Carn Leh, jutting out into Old Town Bay and looking to me rather like a Scillonian sphinx (Photo 4235). Round Carn Leh Cove is Peninnis Head. The first thing that strikes you is a stone row pointing towards Carrickstarne Rock off the end of the peninsula (Photo 4239), make of that what you will.

Photo 4235: Carn Leh – compare the ‘face’ to that on Top Rock (Photo 4313, Spot 139)

Photo 4239: stone row on Peninnis Head

Then you pass Pulpit Rock (Photo 4242). A short stroll brings you to the massive rocks around Outer Head, many graced with names I didn’t see the reason for or couldn’t recognise such as the Monk’s Cowl and The Chair (Photos 4244, 4246, 4253).

Photo 4242: Pulpit Rock – my ship coming in to the right

Photo 4244: my ship coming in again – seen past the Jolly Rocks (I think)

Photo 4246: rocks around Outer Head

Photo 4253: rocks around Inner Head – St.Agnes behind Above the rocks on the shore are some weird rocks with yet more basins to speculate about (Photo 4250, 4252). Further inland is a massive stand of rocks with basins galore (Photo 4254). However, there don’t appear to be any cairn or entrance graves on Peninnis Head so perhaps Porth Hellick Down was the ancient sacred site for St.Mary’s. I was so engrossed in the rocks that I completely forgot about the whole ‘spot’ thing so I am designating all of Peninnis Head as one massive spot.

Photo 4250: is it a bird?

Photo 4252: or is it an anteater? (basins to the left)

Photo 4254: huge rocks with basins well back from the shoreline The coast path back to Hugh Town offers views of The Garrison (Photo 4259) and of Hugh Town (Photo 4263). On the way you pass what I took to be a Stone Age cattle grid – but it’s probably not as old as that (Photo 4260).

Photo 4259: The Garrison from Peninnis Head

Photo 4263: Porthcressa Beach seen over allotments, Buzza Tower to the right

Photo 4260: a Stone Age cattle grid? The Scillonian III took the high water route via Crow Sound so I can end with the last possible shot of the Eastern Isles (Photo 4278).

If you have been to Scilly before, I hope you agree that my trails have taken you to some spots less visited; if you haven’t been to Scilly before, I hope my trails whet your appetite for these truly ‘Fortunate Isles’ – or, in the parlance I prefer, these ‘Blessed Isles’.

Photo 4278: the Eastern Isles from the departing Scillonian III – Hanjague to the right, Great Arthur to the left