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Walking in the Isles of Scilly

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Walking in the Isles of Scilly WALKING IN THE ISLES OF SCILLY 11 WALKS AND 4 BOAT TRIPS EXPLORING THE BEST OF THE ISLANDS by Paddy Dillon JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © Paddy Dillon 2021 CONTENTS Fifth edition 2021 ISBN 978 1 78631 104 7 INTRODUCTION ..................................................5 Location ..........................................................6 Fourth edition 2015 Geology ..........................................................6 Third edition 2009 Ancient history .....................................................7 Second edition 2006 Later history .......................................................9 First edition 2000 Recent history .....................................................10 Getting to the Isles of Scilly ..........................................11 Getting around the Isles of Scilly ......................................13 Printed in China on responsibly sourced paper on behalf of Latitude Press. Boat trips ........................................................15 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Tourist information and accommodation ................................15 All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. Maps of the Isles of Scilly ............................................17 The walks ........................................................18 Guided walks .....................................................19 Island flowers .....................................................20 © Crown copyright 2021. OS PU100012932 Island birds .......................................................22 Island animals ....................................................24 Marine park wildlife ................................................24 Fishing ..........................................................25 The map on page 83 is used with permission of the Abbey Garden. Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust ...........................................26 The Duchy of Cornwall ..............................................26 Plan of this guide ..................................................27 Updates to this Guide Safety matters .....................................................28 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of GPX tracks .......................................................28 guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime Walk 1 Hugh Town Trail ........................................29 of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Walk 2 The Garrison Wall .......................................35 Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk1104/updates), so please check Walk 3 St Mary’s Coast .........................................40 before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about Walk 4 St Mary’s Nature Trails ....................................48 such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of Walk 5 The Gugh .............................................53 way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about Walk 6 St Agnes ..............................................56 any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent Boat Trip 1 Annet and the Western Rocks ..............................60 by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Walk 7 Samson. 64 Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL. Walk 8 Bryher. .67 Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and Boat Trip 2 The Norrard Rocks ......................................73 GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. Walk 9 Tresco ................................................75 Walk 10 Tresco Abbey Garden ....................................82 Boat Trip 3 St Helen’s and Teän ......................................86 Walk 11 St Martin’s. 88 Front cover: A sandy path leads around Little Bay and Great Bay on the island of Boat Trip 4 The Eastern Isles ........................................93 St Martin’s (Walk 11) Appendix A Route summary table. 95 Appendix B Useful contacts .........................................95 WALKING IN THE ISLES OF SCILLY INTRODUCTION ‘Somewhere among the note-books of Gideon I once found a list of diseases as yet unclassified by medical science, and among these there occurred the word Islomania, which was described as a rare but by no means unknown affliction of spirit. There are people, Gideon used to say, by way of explan- ation, who find islands somehow irresistible. The mere knowledge that they are on an island, a little world surrounded by the sea, fills them with an indescribable intoxication.’ Lawrence Durrell, Reflections on a Marine Venus Of all the British Isles, the Isles of and wild, and attract a rich bird life, Scilly are the most blessed. Basking including native breeding species in sunshine, rising green and pleas- and seasonal migrants. And always, ant from the blue Atlantic Ocean, there is the sea. fringed by rugged cliffs and sandy The Isles of Scilly form the small- beaches, these self-contained lit- est of Britain’s Areas of Outstanding tle worlds are a joy to explore. They Natural Beauty, and their historic are as close to a tropical paradise shores have been designated as as it is possible to be in the British Heritage Coast. The surrounding sea Isles, with more sunshine hours than is protected as a Marine Park of great anyone else enjoys. There are no tall biodiversity. Archaeological remains mountains, but the rocks around the abound, not only on the islands, but coast are as dramatic as you’ll find also submerged beneath the sea. The anywhere. There are no extensive Isles of Scilly are special, revealing moorlands, but you’ll forget that as their secrets and charms to those you walk round the open heathery who walk the headlands, sail from headlands. The islands may be small island to island, and take the time to in extent, but the eye is deceived and observe the sights, sounds and scents readily imagines vast panoramas and of the landscape. While the walks in awesome seascapes. Views to the this guidebook could be completed sea take in jagged rocks that have in as little as a week, a fortnight ripped many a keel and wrecked would allow a much more leisurely many a ship. The islands are clothed appreciation of the islands, and leave in colourful flowers, both cultivated memories that will last for a lifetime. A receding tide exposes an ancient wall, possibly Bronze Age, between the islands of Tresco and Samson 4 5 WALKING IN THE ISLES OF SCILLY ANCIENT HISTORY LOCATION remarkable routes around one of other places chemical weathering of The Isles of Scilly lie 45km (28 miles) Britain’s most charming and intensely less stable minerals within the granite west of Land’s End: a position that interesting landscapes. causes the rock to crumble, or peel ensures they are omitted from most away in layers. As a building material, maps of Britain, or shown only as an granite has been used for centuries, inset. There are five inhabited islands GEOLOGY but only in relatively recent times has and about fifty other areas that local The geology of the Isles of Scilly can it been possible to split the rock into people would call islands, as well as a be summed up in one word – gran- squared blocks more suitable for sub- hundred more rocks, and more again ite. The islands are the south-western stantial buildings. at low water. The islands are not part extremity of a deep-seated granite While the Isles of Scilly escaped the of Cornwall, perish the thought, but mass, or batholith, that reaches the Ice Age that affected much of Britain, it a self-administering unit; you could surface of the earth around Dartmoor, didn’t escape the permafrost conditions think of this as the smallest county in Bodmin Moor and Land’s End. Granite that pertained south of the ice sheets, Britain (see www.scilly.gov.uk). The is the bedrock of the Isles of Scilly, and breaking up the granite tors and form- total landmass is a mere 16km² (6¼ it breaks down to form a stony, sandy ing a stony, sandy soil. Nor did the square miles). The waters around the or gritty soil, as well as bright white islands fare too well as the ice began Isles of Scilly, extending as far as the sandy beaches. In some places around to melt and sea levels began to rise. It 50m (165ft) submarine contour, form the coast and occasionally inland, the is thought that Scilly became separated The Old Man of Gugh is a Bronze Age a Marine Park of around 125km² (50 granite forms blocky cliffs and tors, from the rest of Britain around 10,000 monument with a distinct lean to one square miles). Despite the small area rounded boulders or tilted slabs that years ago. It may well have been a sin- side of the islands, walkers can enjoy up have such a rough texture that they gle landmass for a while, but a combi- to about 80km (50 miles) of truly provide excellent grip for walkers. In nation of rising sea levels and coastal comprehensive settlement of the erosion produced the current pattern of islands came in the Bronze Age, up to Granite is the bedrock of the Isles of Scilly, seen five islands and a bewildering number 4000 years ago. Some splendid ritual here at the northern ends of Bryher and Tresco of rocks and reefs. Before the arrival of standing stones and stoutly constructed the first settlers, it was no doubt a wild burial chambers remain from this time, and wooded place. and excavations have revealed skel-
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