Defending Scilly 46992_Text.indd 1 21/1/11 11:56:39 46992_Text.indd 2 21/1/11 11:56:56 Defending Scilly Mark Bowden and Allan Brodie 46992_Text.indd 3 21/1/11 11:57:03 Front cover Published by English Heritage, Kemble Drive, Swindon SN2 2GZ The incomplete Harry’s Walls of the www.english-heritage.org.uk early 1550s overlook the harbour and English Heritage is the Government’s statutory adviser on all aspects of the historic environment. St Mary’s Pool. In the distance on the © English Heritage 2011 hilltop is Star Castle with the earliest parts of the Garrison Walls on the Images (except as otherwise shown) © English Heritage.NMR hillside below. [DP085489] Maps on pages 95, 97 and the inside back cover are © Crown Copyright and database right 2011. All rights reserved. Ordnance Survey Licence number 100019088. Inside front cover First published 2011 Woolpack Battery, the most heavily armed battery of the 1740s, commanded ISBN 978 1 84802 043 6 St Mary’s Sound. Its strategic location led to the installation of a Defence Product code 51530 Electric Light position in front of it in c 1900 and a pillbox was inserted into British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data the tip of the battery during the Second A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. World War. All rights reserved [NMR 26571/007] No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without Frontispiece permission in writing from the publisher. From the late 16th century it was realised that a heavily fortified Garrison Application for the reproduction of images should be made to the National Monuments Record. Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders and we apologise in advance for any unintentional omissions, on St Mary’s could guarantee control of which we would be pleased to correct in any subsequent edition of this book. the waters around the islands. In the 1740s new walls were built around large The National Monuments Record is the public archive of English Heritage. For more information, contact NMR parts of it while in c 1900 6-in gun Enquiry and Research Services, National Monuments Record Centre, Kemble Drive, Swindon SN2 2GZ; batteries surrounded by earthworks telephone (01793) 414600. were set into the hillside. [NMR 26571/001] Typeset in ITC Charter 9.25pt on 13pt Acknowledgements Photographs by Mike Hesketh-Roberts From this gun position on the platform Aerial photographs by Damian Grady beside Cromwell’s Castle on Tresco any Graphics by Deborah Cunliffe and Kate Parsons defenders could have fired on shipping Brought to publication by Jess Ward, Publishing, English Heritage trying to enter New Grimsby Harbour. Edited by Susan Kelleher Page layout by George Hammond [DP025999] Printed in UK by Pureprint. Back cover From the top of Cromwell’s Castle Scilly’s gunners could fire on any enemy ships that tried to moor in the harbour between Tresco and Bryher. [DP085050] 46992_Text.indd 4 21/1/11 11:57:03 Contents Acknowledgements vi Foreword viii Glossary ix 1 Introduction 1 2 Scilly’s military heritage 5 The defences of Edward VI and Mary I 1547–58 5 The defences of Scilly 1558–1640 14 The Wars of the Three Kingdoms 20 Christian Lilly’s survey 30 The Garrison between 1715 and 1740 34 Extending the Garrison Walls in the 1740s 34 A walk around the Garrison Walls – Excursus 46 Napoleonic War 52 The defences in the 19th century 55 Defended ports 55 Scilly in the First World War 63 Scilly in the Second World War 66 3 Scilly and the sea 75 Scilly’s heritage and climate change 79 Conclusion 88 Notes 90 References and further reading 91 Gazetteer of principal sites of interest 94 Map 1 – Isles of Scilly 94 Map 2 – St Mary’s 96 Map 3 – The Garrison on St Mary’s 98 46992_Text.indd 5 21/1/11 11:57:03 Acknowledgements Martin Fletcher was the first person to involve us with Paul Pattison and his colleagues Susan Greaney and research about Scilly during the preparation of a draft Sarah Tatham undertook the new interpretation of English management plan for the Garrison Walls in 2006. Alongside Heritage properties alongside this research project and they his work excavations were conducted on some of the have kindly allowed us to use some of the artwork that Mark surviving earthworks. A report on these was completed by Fenton and Phil Kenning of Kenning Illustration & Creative Dave Fellows and is available in the National Monuments Design Limited have prepared for this. Paul has also read the Record in Swindon. manuscript and from the outset made his vast knowledge of During the current project, which began in 2008, Mike all matters military available to the project team. Hesketh-Roberts has been a key member, taking hundreds A huge amount of research lies behind this book, and of photographs unrivalled in their quality and he has thanks must go to the staff of the National Archives, the supervised their use in this publication until his retirement. British Library and the Cornwall Record Office for their Damian Grady took the superb aerial photographs that have assistance. Most of this research cannot find its way into this been used in this book, revealing archaeological sites in publication, but will be used in more detailed articles that unprecedented clarity. Deborah Cunliffe has prepared the will be published subsequently. excellent archaeological survey drawings for publication This book has relied heavily on the warmth and and Kate Parsons, with advice from Nigel Fradgley, has hospitality of everyone we have met during our visits to produced beautiful maps to help readers to find the most Scilly. A key point of contact has been the Council of the significant military monuments. David Andrews has kindly Isles of Scilly where the Conservation Officer Eleanor Breen provided the drawing of the Garrison Gate from rectified and the officer of the Isles of Scilly Area of Outstanding photographs. Roger JC Thomas has used his considerable Natural Beauty (AONB) Dr Trevor Kirk have provided us expertise on military archaeology to fine tune this book and with material and emotional assistance. Their boss Craig Barry Jones has provided invaluable comments on the Dryden has generously allowed us to draw on the evolving manuscript. We would also like to thank Phil considerable expertise in his team. We would also like to McMahon, Simon Ramsden and Heather Sebire, for their thank the two land stewards of the Duchy of Cornwall Colin insights throughout the project and thanks also to Peter Sturmer and his successor Chris Gregory who have been Murphy for his useful advice and information. In the informative and welcoming to us on our various visits. We Publications Department we would like to thank Jess Ward have also been made welcome by the owners and staff of for bringing the manuscript to publication. the Star Castle, and Ted and Barbara Moulson have kindly vi 46992_Text.indd 6 21/1/11 11:57:03 given us access to their holiday site and the former barracks shipwrecks has highlighted the naval significance of Scilly. of c 1900 that now serves as holiday accommodation. Unfortunately this book could not address this rich vein of A particular tribute is owed to David Mawer and his Scilly’s military heritage, but ongoing research is continuing hardworking team of staff and volunteers from the Isles of to reveal more of this important legacy. Scilly Wildlife Trust. Their grazing programme is attempting A final and a very special accolade must be reserved for to reinstate the natural balance of the islands’ coastline Amanda Martin, the curator of the Isles of Scilly Museum. through selective grazing, and therefore they have begun Unknown to her she has become the unofficial research to reveal more of the islands’ military heritage, and assistant for the project, providing quick replies to all the undoubtedly more remains to be found. questions that we had forgotten to ask when we had been We have also relied greatly on local expertise to make on the islands. The museum contains an unrivalled collection contacts, locate sites and identify research. Richard McCarthy of material about Scilly in general and its defences in has shared his research on the civil wars and kindly read and particular, and she has kindly allowed us to use all of the commented on the manuscript. Katherine Sawyer has research material in her care, some of it being published for generously shared her time and Richard Larn’s work on the first time. vii 46992_Text.indd 7 21/1/11 11:57:12 Foreword The Isles of Scilly, covered with wild flowers and bathed in already claimed some of the earthworks recorded on the warm sunshine, attract visitors to marvel at the natural islands. Growing concerns about climate change, with beauty and enjoy their tranquillity. However, these idyllic increasingly tempestuous weather patterns and rising sea islands have also been in the frontline of England’s and later level, means that this process may be accelerating and parts Britain’s defences since the 16th century. Structures from of Scilly’s largest settlement, Hugh Town, lying on a former each of the phases of conflict over the past 450 years have sandbank just above sea level could be in danger. survived, ranging from small 16th-century forts on Tresco This book describes the colourful military history of to the string of Second World War pillboxes defending Scilly, but it also seeks to illustrate the value and fragility of St Mary’s.