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Economic and Cultural Effects of the Global Surf Industry in El Tunco, El Salvador

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Economic and Cultural Effects of the Global Surf Industry in El Tunco, El Salvador UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN DIEGO Beyond the Waves: Economic and Cultural Effects of the Global Surf Industry in El Tunco, El Salvador A Thesis submitted in partial satisfaction of the requirements for the degree Master of Arts in Latin American Studies (Cultural Studies) by Briana Marie Iatarola Committee in charge: Professor Michael Monteón, Chair Professor Robert Edelman Professor John McMurria, Professor Elana Zilberg 2011 © Briana Marie Iatarola, 2011 All rights reserved. The Thesis of Briana Marie Iatarola is approved, and it is acceptable in quality and form for publication on microfilm and electronically: Chair University of California, San Diego 2011 iii DEDICATION For: Alejandro, quien abrió las puertas de la mente; Zane, who inspired el sueño; and Mom, who helped turn ideas into reality. Con todo mi alma. iv EPIGRAPH Surfing Macroeconomic Theory: Waves attract surfers. Surfing attracts energy. Energy attracts people. People attract capital. Investment attracts development. And so it goes. A quick survey from outer space would likely show an inordinate number of major coastal cities expanding outwards in concentric waves from a quality surf break. Steve Barilotti v TABLE OF CONTENTS Signature Page ........................................................................................................................... iii Dedication ................................................................................................................................. iv Epigraph ...................................................................................................................................... v Table of Contents ...................................................................................................................... vi List of Terms & Abbreviations ............................................................................................... viii List of Photographs ................................................................................................................... ix List of Graphs ............................................................................................................................ xi List of Figures .......................................................................................................................... xii Preface ..................................................................................................................................... xiii Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................. xiv Abstract ..................................................................................................................................... xv Introduction ................................................................................................................................. 1 Chapter 1: The Central American ‘Wavetopia’........................................................................... 7 1.1: Brief Background of El Salvador’s Civil War ................................................................. 7 1.2: Transforming into a Wavetopia ...................................................................................... 15 1.2.1: The Power of Punta Roca’s Neocolonial Surf Narrative ......................................... 20 1.2.2: Mapping the ‘Inevitable’ El Tunco ......................................................................... 29 1.2.3: Readjusting the Surf-Narrative Methodology ......................................................... 37 Chapter 2: Social Spatiality and Surfing ................................................................................... 48 2.1: Surf Tourism as Exception ............................................................................................. 48 2.2: Perks and Perils of Privatization .................................................................................... 74 2.3: Bootleg Consumerism and Manufacturing Challenges .................................................. 84 2.3.1: qi-x and ‘El Chino’ .................................................................................................. 93 Chapter 3: Territoriality .......................................................................................................... 102 3.1: ‘Mucha Gente, Poca Ola’: Understanding ‘(G)localism .............................................. 102 Chapter 4: Professional Opportunities Based on Class and Gender ........................................ 114 4.1: From Self to Nation-Agent ........................................................................................... 114 4.2: Why so Few Females? .................................................................................................. 125 Conclusion ............................................................................................................................... 137 Appendix 1 .............................................................................................................................. 143 vi Appendix 2 .............................................................................................................................. 144 Appendix 3 .............................................................................................................................. 145 References ............................................................................................................................... 146 vii LIST OF TERMS & ABBREVIATIONS AHP Asociación de Hoteles Pequeños (Small Hotels Association) ALAS Asociación Latinoamericana de Surfistas Profesionales (Latin American Association of Surfing Professionals ASP Association of Surfing Professionals banda Organized criminal network CORSATUR Corporación Salvadoreña de Turismo (Salvadoran Corporation of Tourism) CNR Central Nacional de Registros (National Registry Center) surfers de la ciudad city surfers extranjeros foreigners FESASURF Federación Salvadoreña de Surf (Salvadoran Surfing Federation) FMLN Frente Farabundo Martí para la Liberación Nacional (Farabundo Martí Front for National Liberation) FUSADES Fundación Salvadoreña para El Desarrollo Económico y Social GOES Government of El Salvador la(s) playa(s) the beach(es) MUSASURF Mujeres Salvadoreñas Surfers pandillas/maras gangs SIMA Surf Industry Manufacturers Association tablas surfboards UCA Universidad Centroamericana “José Simeón Cañas” zonas franca Free Trade Zone (FTZ) viii LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS Photographs 1.1: A museum at Universidad Centroamericana Jose Simeón Cañas, also known as “la UCA,” features a portrait and headstone of El Salvador’s legendary politically religious figure, Archbishop Oscar Arnulfo Romero ................................................................................. 7 Photograph 1.2: An unidentified artist captures a boiling point of religious and political tensions in El Salvador .............................................................................................................. 11 Photograph 1.3: Inside Sala Memorial de Mártiers at la UCA, the heavy realities of civil war emanate from two of artist RHRE2a85’s sketches of the tortured nameless ............................ 12 Photograph 1.4: When traveling along Carretera del Litoral, a massive, colorful sign makes it easy to spot the entrance to Playa El Tunco .............................................................................. 31 Photographs 2.1: In the “land of rights,” La Bocana is El Salvador’s most recognized left. A nearby river mouth and cobble stones help produce its surf-worthy shape ............................... 50 Photograph 2.2: Between May and October, the Pacific Ocean dumps miles’ worth of tennis ball-sized stones along the sandy beaches. Most surfers walk across them before paddling out to Sunzal, a forgiving wave when seasonal swells remain at bay ............................................. 50 Photograph 2.3: Along with its “world-class” waves, El Tunco’s massive rock formation has become a commodifiable landmark .......................................................................................... 54 Photograph 2.4: Once upon a time, people could drive their vehicles along this unpaved road in El Sunzal, park, and trek down a hill of rocks to surf the town’s most popular break. Privatization of public beach access has changed everything ................................................... 81 Photograph 2.5: Printing on the inner lining of this T-shirt shows Nike subsidiary Hurley has relied on Salvadoreño labor to produce surf apparel ................................................................. 87 Photographs 2.6: Factories in China currently produce Quiksilver and its “outdoor fashion brand” Roxy ............................................................................................................................. 91 Photographs 2.7: qi-x’s now-defunct “La Fábrica” is located less than 100 meters from qi-x Rancho, once a lodging facility for “team surfers.” These days, it is advertised as an exclusive accommodation for all types of visitors ................................................................................... 94 Photograph 2.8: qi-x has three suppliers in China. One is located on Qi’ao Island Tang Jia Wan in Zhuahai. The remaining two are in Hong Kong.. ......................................................... 96 Photograph 2.9: An image, courtesy of qi-x’s non-copyrighted website, shows Papaya teaching a group
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