Exchains Chain: from Production to Retail, Workers Unite!

Solidarity along the supply exCHAINS chain: from production to retail, workers unite!

NEWSLETTER 2/2009

Triumph? Thailand Not for workers’ rights in Thailand Beginning on October 16, 2009 fired workers of Body Fash- lost almost half of its workforce – more than 2,000 jobs. ion Thailand (BFT), a wholly-owned subsidiary of the Ger- Cuts are also taking place at other factories. The unions man/Swiss lingerie brand Triumph, have set up a “produc- have fought the job losses saying the cuts were done with- tion” camp in front of the Thai Ministry of Labour. Recently out proof of declining business or that they had not dis- they began sewing underwear there. cussed them with the union. In addition, fired workers are In July 2008, BFT union President Jitra Kotshadej was claiming that employers still owe them the severance pay fired for wearing a T-shirt with the slogan “Those who do not stand are not criminals. Thinking differ- ently is not a crime” during a TV debate, even though she had not been introduced as a Triumph employee. The slogan refers to having to stand when the Thai national anthem is played. Angry at her firing more than 2,000 co-workers stopped working, demanding her reinstatement – without success. In the end, the court upheld the employ- er’s position: Jitra Kotshadej lost her case for reinstatement. Meanwhile, workers at Thai and Philippine suppliers of Triumph International are facing large- scale job cuts. The corporation has said the firings are necessary because of the current global economic crisis. More than 1,600 jobs have been lost at two factories in the Philippines. BFT alone has

Developing and strengthening links Vereinte Dienstleistungsgewerk- the right to organise at their suppliers. between workers from Asia and Europe, schaft (ver.di, Germany) This newsletter is being published regu- working along the subcontracting chain We want: larly in Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Ger- of garment production, is the main to raise awareness concerning the many, containing information about objective of the ExCHAINS project. international production chain in the working conditions in the respective These links are vital to the global fight tex tile, garment and retail sector; countries, as well as informa tion about against the exploitation of workers and to establish concrete solidarity ongoing campaigns. We hope this will for the eradication of poverty. between workers along the supply provide an opportunity for information In the ExCHAINS project, TIE (Trans- chain; exchange and raise awareness about nationals Information Exchange) is col- to support freedom of association the connections be tween the different laborating with three regional unions: and the right to organise; countries and unite workers’ demands. Free Trade Zones and General to support con- Services Employees Union (FTZ & GSEU, crete campaigns; For more information: Sri Lanka) (former Free Trade Zones to pressure big Website: E-mail: Workers Union, FTZWU) retail companies to www.exchains.verdi.de [email protected] National Garment Workers Federa- name their suppliers www.tie-germany.org [email protected] tion (NGWF, Bangladesh) and to support [email protected] 1 2 ex CHAINS 2/2009 be handedto its Director General. produced infront oftheMinistrywill dismissals. Thefirstpanties tobe ards and procedures inthe caseof ILOandOECD stand- international get Triumph tofollow International chain andwanttousethespace of Thaiworkersintheglobalsupply ding theMinistersupportrights Ministry ofLabour. Theyare deman- a “production” campinfront ofthe of thefactory, theyhavenowsetup one hundred daysofprotests infront have steppeduptheiractivity. After are theworkersstandingfirm,they manent hearingdamage.Notonly gon, whichisknowntocauseper- Device, developedbytheUSPenta- weapon calledLongRangeAcoustic The haveusedonthemamilitary threatened toputtheminprison. silence theprotestors. Theyhave istryingto The Thaigovernment adopted commondemands: tions, coordinated publicity, and tional allies,haveorganised jointac- Campaign, TIEandotherinterna- support from theCleanClothes have exchangedvisitsand,with rope. PhilippineandThaiworkers Thai unionistshavetravelledtoEu- not remained passive.Forexample, fired workersandtheirunionshave North ofThailandare hiring.The ganised supplierfactoriesinthe jobs are beingcutthere whileunor- force wasorganised inunions.Now than 70percent oftheBFTwork- layoffs. tions concerning ports ofviolationslegalregula- wages. Basically, there are manyre- cases eventhelastfewmonths’ they are entitledto,andinsome

workers retaliationNo government against where unionsare banned No production inspecialzones Compensation forlostwages company No anti-unionactivitiesbythe those dismissed Unconditional reinstatement ofall cations Stop dismissalsandfactoryrelo- Prior tothewaveoflayoffs more federation, towhichtheFTZ & GSEU for DecentWork theTrade UnionCon- an hour. AttheendofWorld Day aged tokeepthepicketgoingforover leave immediately. Theworkersman- security area andeveryonewasto the gatheringsayingitwasahigh ately triedtobreak up zone. Thepoliceimmedi- entrance gatetothe front ofthemain organising apicketin Trade ZoneKatunayake from factoriesintheFree with unionmembers wage”. Thedaystarted countries asa“living dignity, knowninmany and theirfamiliestoliveasecure lifein call forawagethatenablesworkers decent workaround theworldwith Lankan unionislinkingthecallfor declared thisdayworldwide.TheSri including theFTZ & GSEU, have unions, organisations andinstitutions, the secondyearinwhicharangeof ‘World DayforDecentWork’. Thisis Union inSriLankacommemoratedthe Zones &GeneralServicesEmployees On October7,2009theFree Trade Lanka Sri and livingwage Decent work ternational struggleforalivingwage. ternational knowing theirrightsandjoiningthein- workplaces –animportantstepin workers toorganise inunionsattheir low. Theyalsodemandedtherightfor pretext forkeepingtheminimumwage against usingthefinancialcrisisasa a publicandworkers’awareness rais- last yearswithincreasing successby has influencedthisprocess duringthe (Board ofInvestment).TheFTZ & GSEU the Free Trade ZonesauthorityBOI mum wagefortheupcomingyearwith free tradezonesrenegotiate themini- companies operatingintheSriLankan work. town hallontheprinciplesofdecent belongs, heldaseminarinColombo’s In thefinalmonthsofeveryyear, BOI andthecompanies Zones toliveindignity. tories oftheFree Trade low workersinthefac- tion butisenoughtoal- keeps pacewithinfla- wages thatnotonly crease inminimum it isdemandinganin- ing campaign.Thisyear They warned the They warned ex CHAINS 2/2009 3 sufficient (“living sufficient wage”) minimum wage legislation. Second, multination- al companies that buy these products must act responsibly and pay a living wage instead of pushing wages further and further down. Unless they do, wages in the Bangladesh garment industry will remain poverty wages. standards on companies to make on companies standards proc- in arbitration them participate esses. AlaRM makes this call on the Sri AlaRM makes this Lankan government because the to garment GSP+ status is essential workers’ and other export industry and job security. future nutritious meals a day for the workers nutritious meals a day for the workers and their families. If workers and their to live in dignity rather than families are in poverty and want, several things are needed. First, governments produc- of er countries must pass and enforce AlaRM is calling on the govern-AlaRM is combating anti-union, anti workers company practices by rel- introducing evant legislation, and placing tougher making previously ratified ILO con- making previously ventions part of the national con- stitution, a proce- creating for recognis- dure ing unions as col- lective bargaining partners,

need for a “living wage”. Even the Bank designated poverty line of World 4,200 taka, far exceeds the current minimum wage of 1,662 taka. Such wages do not even cover people’s most basic needs, let alone cover two es its mind and starts to cooperate. es its mind to effort Lanka to make an ment of Sri and requirements meet the EU/GSP+ to implement the international stand- onto long ago. This that it signed ards includes specifically: anni- th A hard job and still poor ? hard job and still poor A wage ! Raise the minimum Protect rights – Secure jobs ! jobs Secure – rights Protect Union activists followed

the minimum wage). up with a rally highlighting the the NGWF campaign to adjust we reported on the start of we reported the last Ex-Chains newsletter Bangladesh celebrated its 25 (in 5,000 taka (about 50 euros) Lankan government seriously chang- Federation (NGWF) of ment Workers 1,662 taka a month to try from draw the GSP+ status unless the Sri draw the GSP+ status unless the Sri This past summer the National Gar- workers in the garment industry. Now the EU is threatening to with- Now the EU is threatening try. mum wage for the 2.5 million gate the current situation in the coun- situation in the gate the current substantial rise in the mini- EU emissaries who wanted to investi- focused on the demand for a Lankan government denied entry to lasted for several hours, and good governance – but the Sri action, a human chain, which standards, environmental protection protection environmental standards, of events in Dhaka. One their respect for human rights, social social for human rights, their respect a series the union organised only to those countries that can prove only to those countries that can prove Day for the Eradication of Poverty”, retain this status. GSP+ is granted this status. GSP+ is granted retain our of this occasion and “International making only half-hearted efforts to to efforts making only half-hearted On October 17, 2009, in hon- versary. the Sri Lankan government has been EU at very favourable conditions. But conditions. But EU at very favourable a country to export its products to the to the its products a country to export tsunami of 2004. GSP+ status allows status allows tsunami of 2004. GSP+ granted because of the devastating the devastating granted because of country’s “GSP plus” status. This was “GSP plus” status. This was country’s Commission for an extension of the extension of the Commission for an ernment applied to the European ernment applied to the European In October 2008 the Sri Lankan gov- In October 2008 the and unions, including the FTZ&GSEU. including the FTZ&GSEU. and unions, AlaRM, an alliance of organisations alliance of organisations AlaRM, an This is the campaign slogan/call of of campaign slogan/call This is the desh Bangla- Sri Lanka Sri 4 2/2009 demokratische Medien and Solidaritätsfonds schenwürde und Arbeitswelt supported byStiftungMen- of thisnewsletterhasbeen The internationalproduction ex CHAINS China they are denied employ- This meansspecificallythat denied basiccivilrights. considered strangersand city foryearstheyare still working andlivinginthe to liveinthecity. Evenafter ( resident registration system Because oftheexisting nation inChinesecities. subject tomajordiscrimi- cities. Migrantworkersare ployed infactoriesthetownsand 240 millionmigrantworkerswere em- exist, bytheendof2008anestimated toys etc.Althoughnoofficial figures electronic goods,automobileparts, goods forexport–textiles,garments, pally inthefactoriesthatproduce lages. Thesemigrantsfindworkprinci- ing toescapepovertyintheirhomevil- and agriculturalworkers,theyare look- grant workers.Mostlypeasantfarmers joint strategies. from oneanotheranddevelop learn in bothcountries,sothattheycan differences inthesituationofworkers exploring commonalitiesand involved. Theprogramme is ExChains project, isalso tung, inwhichTIE,withthe Hong Kong)andAsienstif- Globalization Monitor(GM, China andGermany”,runby “Forum Worlds ofLabour– context oftheprogramme around theworld.Thisis ness ofworkingconditions the growing interconnected- Globalisation hasresulted in hukou One keyfocusisonChina’s mi- ) theyhavenoright Migrant workersandthecrisis go onstrike.Severe penalties are pendent unionsandare notallowedto are notpermittedtoformanyinde- the workersfrom thecityisthatthey migrant workershaveincommonwith pay ahighrent tolivethere. Whatthe room. Inmanycasesworkersmuststill es, oftenwith10ormore peopletoa led dormitoriesonthefactorypremis- choice buttoliveinemployercontrol- rights. Inmanycasestheyhaveno when employersviolatetheirlabour are lessabletodefendthemselves working days,unhealthyjobsetc.)and working conditions(lowwages,long end upinthesectorswithpoorest ploit thancityresidents: theyusually tus, migrantworkersare easiertoex- families justonceortwiceayear. unusual fortheseworkerstoseetheir with otherfamilymembers.Itisnot leave theirchildren inthecountryside For thisreason, mostmigrantworkers attendance forthechildren, andsoon. fare insurance,medicalcare, school ment contractsthatincludesocialwel- Due totheirdifficult civilrightssta- seeks tocontributetowards interna- gramme “ForumWorlds ofLabour” organisation forallworkers.Thepro- why there isaneedfornewformsof problems ofmigrantworkers.Thisis have nottakenmuchinterest inthe ganising. Sofar, theofficial unions safety, tolabourrightsandunionor- topics from healthcare, tohealthand programmes existonabroad rangeof set upandeducationaladvice workers. Culturalcentres havebeen na are fightingfortherightsofmigrant their fields. and toldthemtogobackhome displaced workersafewYuan incash local administrationsstartedgivingthe er thanforce thecompaniestopayup, wages andseverancepayments.Rath- began todemandtheiroutstanding many peoplelosttheirjobs.Workers when theglobalfinancialcrisishit, side ofthecompanies.Earlierthisyear mental authoritiestoooftentakethe of thelawisnotstandard; govern- Genuine investigationsintoviolations A numberoforganisations inChi- cheated ofowedwages. some casesworkersare conditions oflayoffs. In regarding theprocess and nies toignore Chineselaw it notuncommonforcompa- the firsttoloosetheirjobs.Is orders, migrantworkersare business crisesordrops in public protests. engage inwildcatstrikesor handed downtothosewho Whenever there are dustry regions. metropolitan exportin- it thesouthChinese man retail sectorwillvis- workers from theGer- and Asienstiftung.Here by GM,TIE/Ex-Chains change triporganised November 2009ex- this typeofactivitiesisa debate. Oneexampleof change andstrategic tional networking,ex- ex CHAINS 2/2009 5 NGWF and FTZ&GSEU need union NGWF and FTZ&GSEU need union organisers! Both unions can count on the active number of commit- support of a large the factories. But ted activists from – these activists can only do so much not only because they have limited time available, but also because expe- rience has shown that workers risk in any union if they engage being fired is an urgent activities. This is why there and ongoing need for independently financed organisers. Please support the local unions’ in fight against workers’ exploitation the supplier factories! tie – Internationales Bildungswerk e.V., 131, 60385 Frankfurt, Heidestr. Germany. For donations use: No. of account: 861685; Account holder: tie – Interna- IBAN: tionales Bildungswerk e.V.; DE76 5005 0201 0000 861 685; BIC: Organising HELADEF1822; Key word:

right to ExChains . In Sri Lanka and Bangladesh Fundraising campaign “Organising” campaign Fundraising project (see p.1) are working together working (see p.1) are project the workers’ to help enforce organise working to gain union access we are to the factories and thus to the work- part of However, ers employed there. is having enough organising effective available to make the union organisers opportunities most of the organising this access. This is the from that result of only way to make workers aware their rights and to enable them to come together to defend these rights. ness’. In the name of fighting the economic crisis, employers have stepped up their attacks the social achieve- that work- ments and legal regulations ers and their unions have won through struggle to set limits to worker exploitation. important than ever: the work- More ers have to be able to fight back! change in to bring about real In order the situation in the supplier factories, the partners involved in the ExChains: ExChains:

Their working conditions in this Their working conditions And on top of all this: the ‘global economic crisis’... Most of the time legislation exists horrible working such to prevent conditions. A genuine commitment them is what is miss- to enforcing ing. Organising in unions hindered by in unions hindered Organising employers Danger to life and limb: lack of workplace safety provi- effective up-to- protection, sions, e.g. fire clothing protective date technology, Sexist discrimination: visits to the lavatory limited, sexual attacks, general harassment Living from hand to mouth: no hand to mouth: Living from employment contracts, no social safety net, no maternity leave Poor wages, delayed payment, Poor wages, delayed overtime mandatory and excessive

why workers’ rights are ‘bad for busi- why workers’ rights are er been at a loss for words to explain er been at a loss for words Companies in every country have nev- cases”!: – these are not just “extreme isolated not just “extreme – these are years old. involve the following sector frequently are women, most of them under 30 women, are About four out of every five workers About four out of every pean and North American markets. North American markets. pean and factories produce clothes for the Euro- clothes for produce factories Millions of workers in Asia’s garment workers in Asia’s Millions of October 7 in Sri Lanka are showing the action of Pictures in this newsletter Urgent