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Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
H. G Davis of West Virginia William Hay Wood Here Arke Fob Summer's Stay
at FOR TUDAY Light T . T SUGAR 96 Ceatrifu. trades and fair weather. (ll irarfifliifriTf TU. 3.9375 Per Ton Last 24 hours' rainfall .04; 7 X $78.75. 55 Analysis 1 temperature, max. 83,min- - mmsSm 4-- Beets, 9s 8 Parity Imum, 70. Per Ton. T . t t t t ta VOL. II., NO. 80. 3 SUNDAY, Sw-on- a HONOLULU, HAWAII TERRITORY, JULY 10, 1904. TEN PAGES. 190S- - Honolula, Hwalt, at Matter, Under Act of Congress ot March 8. 1879. H. G DAVIS OF WEST VIRGINIA WILLIAM HAY WOOD HERE ARKE FOB SUMMER'S STAY -- ooooooooooooooookoooo-oo ooo Will Post Up On Late Parker Stands for Gold and Gives Hawaiian Developments. What He Says About Island Concerns at Convention Chance to Name Washington Garter's Many Friends. Another Man. William Haywood, representative at Tarker had been nominated by the I'liLSjir1 Washington of the Hawaiian Planters' Democrats, he said: Association and the Honolulu Chamber "I don't think tley have nominated their strongest man. In my opinion, Debate Follows is In-- of Commerce, arrived last evening from Exciting and Candidate Cleveland would have been passenger much the the national capital, a aboard stronger. WheVi I left Washington Is llil' t formed That Money Not an Issue Vice 1 the United States army transport Sher- prominent Democrats seemed to be of ':i!i7:iy man, accompanied by Mrs. Haywood a mind that Cleveland or Gray would Presidential Nominee An Aged Banker. and children. They were met at the be nominated. The conservative inter- ests in the great i w . -
Corset and Brassiere Industry
Approved Code No. 7 Regisiry No. 220-1-02 NATIONAL RECOVERY ADMINISTRATION CODE OF FAIR COMPETITION FOR 1'HE ! CORSET AND BRASSIERE INDUSTRY AS APPROVED ON AUGUST 14, 1933 BY PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT 1. Executive Order 2. Administrative Order 3. Report of Deputy Administrator 4. Code UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE WASHINGTON : 1933 For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D.C. • • - • - -- - Price 5 cents EXECUTIVE ORDER CODE OF F AIR COMPETITION, CORSET .AND BRASSIERE INDUSTRY An application having be~n duly made, pursuant to and in full compliance with the provisions of Title I of the National Industrial Recovery Act, approved June 16, 1933, for my approval of a Code of Fair Competition for the Corset and Brassiere Industry, and hearings having been held thereon and the Administrator having rendered his report containing a.n analysis of the said Code of Fair Competition together with his recommendations and findings with respect thereto, and the Administrator having found that the said Code of Fair Competition complies in all respects with the pertinent provisions of Title I of said Act and that the requirements of clauses (1) and (2) of subsection (a) of Section 3 of the said Act have been met: NO,V, THEREFORE, I , Franklin D. Roosevelt, President of the United States, pursuant to the authority vested in me by Title I of the National Industrial Recovery Act, approved June 16, 1933, and otherwise, do adopt and approve the report, recommendations and findings of the Administrator and do order that the said Code of Fair Competition be and it is hereby approved. -
1970S 1994 1901 1950S 1960S
34069_CSB_050-051_Gossard 1/6/2007 17:22 Page 50 Gossard has been at the forefront of lingerie design and innovation since 1901, pioneering new styles and technology that have revolutionised underwear consistently through the decades. The brand has earned an exemplary reputation for quality, comfort and fit and now sells in over 30 countries worldwide. Focusing on fashion-led collections to suit the demands of today’s women, Gossard remains one of the most widely recognised and well-loved lingerie brands in the UK. Market according to figleaves.com customers. including the world-famous Wonderbra. The lingerie market consists of many brands More than 10,000 consumers voted and As women turned to burning their bras as and is highly competitive. Total lingerie sales in the Superboost satin range was considered a sign of liberation and freedom in the the UK are valued at £1.28 billion, an increase the bra that creates the most attractive 1970s, Gossard responded by developing of just under seven per cent in the last four cleavage – comfortably. its Glossies range of sheer, shimmering years. Volume sales have grown by eight per underwear, providing a very natural look cent during the same period, indicating a Product under tight fitting clothes. slight decline in retail prices. Bra sales Gossard’s products have evolved in line with Around the same time it was noted that represent more than half of the market value both fashion and social acceptance. The women’s figures were starting to change. (Source: TNS FashionTrak September 2006). 1960s saw the brand pioneer the pantie They were becoming taller and fuller in the girdle and bra slip in the UK – both thought bust and, as a result, the demand for larger Achievements to be very daring at the time. -
Patch Works NEW YORK — Rustic and Refined — a Combination That Goes to the Heart of Ralph Lauren’S Work
SAKS NIXES BON-TON BID/2 ICONIX SAID BUYING RAMPAGE/4 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • September 19, 2005 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Patch Works NEW YORK — Rustic and refined — a combination that goes to the heart of Ralph Lauren’s work. For spring, he mixed the elements in beautifully tailored jackets cut from patchwork denim. Here, a shapely blazer over a frilled shirt and printed jeans. For more on the shows, see pages 6 to 15. The Long, Hot Season: Buyers Applaud Spring But Gripe About Shows By Sharon Edelson and David Moin NEW YORK — A brutal show schedule with many off-site venues; hot, humid weather, and snarled traffic as a result of the United Nations summit left retailers feeling cranky last week, but nonetheless bullish about spring. Given the continuing strength of the luxury market, retailers said they expect their open-to-buys to be at least a few points ahead of last year and perhaps more if their companies are opening new stores. After all, the euro is dropping against the dollar, meaning designer goods might be less expensive come See Buyers, Page12 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2005 WWD.COM Saks Turns Down Bon-Ton By Vicki M. Young WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear NEW YORK — Saks Inc. has re- jected a bid by The Bon-Ton Stores for its northern depart- FASHION Ralph Lauren presented an array of stunning items, Donna Karan offered ment store group, and will now elegant sensuality and Gwen Stefani made her runway debut to close the week. -
The War and Fashion
F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book. -
Private Lessons a Photo Story by Andrea Slip
Private Lessons A photo story by Andrea Slip 1 | P a g e Lesson01 Mike was a little nervous as he stood outside the brown front door on a Sunday afternoon. His mum had arranged for him to have some A-level revision lessons with a Miss Loren, a friend of hers who used to be a maths teacher. He didn’t quite know what to expect. He knocked on the door. Within a few moments the door opened. Mike had to try very, very hard not to let his jaw hit the floor. A lady opened the door to Mike. “You must be Mike, pleased to meet you, do come in, I am Sophie Loren” said Sophie shaking his hand. Mike recovered as he stared in amazement at the lady dressed in a cream silk dress. As she put her brown high heels on the step her button up dress split at the front to reveal both a cream lace edged slip and possibly the hint of a lacy stocking top. Miss Loren, Sophie, looked vaguely familiar, but he couldn’t quite place where from. 2 | P a g e Lesson02 Earlier that Sunday Sophie was dressing in her bedroom. She remembered that this afternoon that the son of her co-worker Alison was coming round for his first maths revision lesson. She had also established with Alison in the staffroom at work that he was the shelf stacker that had seen her up- skirt flash and had “helped” her find the toilet when her skirt had accidently fallen down at the Supermarket. -
Undergarments : Extension Circular 4-12-2
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Nebraska 4-H Clubs: Historical Materials and Publications 4-H Youth Development 1951 Undergarments : Extension Circular 4-12-2 Allegra Wilkens Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/a4hhistory Part of the Service Learning Commons Wilkens, Allegra, "Undergarments : Extension Circular 4-12-2" (1951). Nebraska 4-H Clubs: Historical Materials and Publications. 124. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/a4hhistory/124 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the 4-H Youth Development at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Nebraska 4-H Clubs: Historical Materials and Publications by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Jan. 1951 E.G. 4-12-2 o PREPARED FOR 4-H CLOTHrNG ClUB GIRLS EXTENSION SERVICE UNIVERSITY OF NEBRASKA COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AND U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE COOPERATING A W. V. LAMBERT, DIRECTOR C i ( Undergarments for the Well Dressed 4-H Girl Allegra Wilkens The choosing or designing of the undergarments that will make a suitable foundation for her costume is a challenge to any girl's good taste. She may have attractive under- wear if she is wise in the selection of materials and careful in making it or in choosing ready-made garments. It is not the amount of money that one spends so much as it is good judgment in the choice of styles, materials and trimmings. No matter how beautiful or appropriate a girl's outer garments may be, she is not well dressed unless she has used good judgment in making or selecting her under - wear. -
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QUIENES SOMOS? Somos una compañía Colombiana ubicada en la ciudad de Medellín. Dedicada a la fabricación y comercialización de prendas que ayudan a mejorar y resaltar las bondades de la figura humana, generando en mujeres y hombres comodidad, estilo, alivio y belleza con un alto impacto en el autoestima. Piel de Ángel es un empresa altamente comprometida con la responsabilidad social que vela por el beneficio y desarrollo de todo nuestro publico. Nuestras prendas están elaboradas con materias primas cuidadosamente seleccionadas que cumplen con altos estándares de calidad, que garantizan una compresión gradual de media y alta siguiendo los parámetros para los procedimientos quirúrgicos. Nuestra experiencia en diseño y fabricación nos ha permitido innovar y ofrecer a todos nuestros clientes nacionales e internacionales una faja especialmente elaborada a su medida. We are a Colombian company located in the city of Medellín. Dedicated to the manufacture and marketing of garments that help improve and highlight stand out the benefits of the human figure, generating in women and men comfort, style, relief and beauty with a high impact on self-esteem. PIEL DE ANGEL is a company highly committed to social responsibility that ensures the benefit and development of our entire public. Our garments are made with carefully selected raw materials that meet high quality standards, which guarantee a medium and high gradual compression following the parameters for surgical procedures. Our experience in design and manufacturing has allowed us to innovate and offer all our national and international clients a specially tailor made girdle. 2 3 NIVELES DE COMPRESIÓN COMPRESIÓN MEDIA Estas prendas ayudan a moldear y ejercen una compresión pareja permitiendo moverte de una manera más libre, brindan descanso y alivio a las molestias en la piel que aparecen luego de realizar un procedimiento quirúrgico. -
OECD-Complaint Against Triumph International “Massive Layoff in Thailand and the Philippines”
OECD complaint against Triumph International, December 2009 OECD-complaint against Triumph International “Massive layoff in Thailand and the Philippines” Triumph International Spiesshofer & Braun Promenadestr. 24 5330 Bad Zurzach Complaint handed over to: State Secretariat for Economic Affairs National Contact Point of Switzerland International Investment and Multinational Enterprises Effingerstrasse 1 3003 Berne Content of this document: 1. Contact details of the complainants 2. Details of the company 3. Summary of the case 4. Violation of OECD-guidelines and failure of Triumph International 5. Goal/expected outcomes of the OECD complaint 6. Public information available about your case 7. Documents in the annex Date: 2. December 2009 1 OECD complaint against Triumph International, December 2009 1. Complaint filed by: Triumph International Thailand Labour Union (TITLU) Contact person: Jittra Kotchadej Position: Consultant, Triumph International Thailand Labour Union Address: 7/76 Moo 7 Rompoo 2 Village, Taparak Rd,T.Taparak, A. Moung, Samutprakarn 10270 Tel: +66 87 0206672 E-Mail: [email protected] Bagong Pagkakaisa ng mga Manggagawa sa Triumph Int’l. Phils. Inc. (BPMTI-INDEPENDENT) Contact person: Isabelita dela Cruz Position: President, BPMTI Address: Gov. E. Rodriguez st. FTI Compound Taguig City, Philippines, Reg.#NCR-UR-8-389-89 Tel: ++639198429151 E-Mail: [email protected] Defend Job Philippines Organization Inc. Contact Person: Melona R. Daclan Position: Campaign Director Address: Gov. E, Rodriguez St., FTI Complex, Taguig -
Contact Triumph International Name Surname Tel: +Xx (X) Xx Xxxx-Xxxx Mail: Name.Surname@Triumph .Com
Press Information Contact Triumph International Name Surname Tel: +xx (x) xx xxxx-xxxx Mail: name.surname@triumph .com Triumph Inspiration Award 2010 “Shape Sensation” is the new design challenge for young designers in the third year of the worldwide lingerie design competition Munich, 26.04.2010 For the third year, Triumph International, one of the world’s leading lingerie and shapewear brands, invites young students from world-renown fashion schools to prove their creativity in an international design contest of the highest calibre. The winning designs from 27 countries will need to impress a prestigious international jury at the grand final, this year held in the fashion metropolis of London, as well as the worldwide online community at www.triumph-inspiration-award.com . By interpreting the design theme “Shape Sensation”, upcoming talent will take centre stage with their multinational view of shapes and silhouettes in the Triumph Inspiration Award 2010. This year, for the first time, a one-piece may be entered instead of only a two-piece bra and briefs, but the big goal remains the same: the young designers must win over the jury with the inspiration and creativity of their unique showpiece. “Shaping women with lingerie that brings out the best in them while praising and encouraging their uniqueness is at the core of our business. We are excited to see which facets of shape fascinate young creatives from across the world”, says Suzanne McKenna, Triumph´s Global Brand Manager. Again, prize money temptingly awaits the winner of the Award. The first prize is 15,000 Euro, while the second and third place winners will receive 10,000 Euro and 5,000 Euro respectively. -
A Study on the Characteristics of 20Th Century Womenfs Undergarments
IJCC, Vol. 6, No. 2, 83 〜92(2003) 15 A Study on the Characteristics of 20th Century Womenfs Undergarments Seo-Hee Lee and Hyeon-Ju Kim* Assistant Professor, Dept, of Fashion and Beauty, Konyang University Instructor, Dept, of Clothing Science, Seoul Women's University* (Received June 23, 2003) Abstract This study aims to classify -women's undergarments of the 20th century by periods, and to examine their characteristics. The research method consists of a literature study based on relevant documentary records and a demonstrative analysis of graphic data collected from each reference. The features of women's under garments obtained from the study are as fallows: First, silhouette changes of outer garments appear to influence the type and style of a new undergarment. Second, technological development results in a new type of undergarments. Third, the development of new material appears to influence functions and design of undergarments. Fourth, social changes including the development of sports affects the changes of undergarments. As seen so far, the form or type, material, and color in undergarment diversify when fashion changes become varied and rapid. As shown before the 20th century, the importance of undergarment's type, farm, and function gradually reduces according to the changes of -women's mind due to their social participation, although it still plays a role in correcting the shape of an outer garment based on the outer silhouette. The design also clearly shows the extremes of maximization and minimization of decoration. Key words : undergarment, modern fashion, lingerie, infra apparel the beginning of the 20th century, corsets and I.