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January 2018 SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY

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SeptemberJanuary 20182017 14 Weeks in Europe Music Boxes in Cuckoo SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY By Oliver Broos Revitt, CW21 Clocks Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute page 10 By Paul Corn page 23 EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES American Watchmakers- What Your Retail Trade Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) Accounts Really Want 701 Enterprise Drive Industry News Harrison, OH 45030 from You Baselworld 2018 Shrinks AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) By Nick Pechman, CW21 CLOCKMAKERSCLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE INSTITUTE or 513-367-9800 page 40 Significantly Fax 513-367-1414 By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 [email protected] • www.awci.com page 30 www.facebook.com/MyAWCI Cover Image: AWCI News Hodinkee Expands into Archie B. Perkins teaching at the Emily Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 President’s Message Griffith Opportunity School in Denver, Executive Director Official Online Retailer Ext. 310 [email protected] By Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 Colorado, in the 1960s. page 5 Photo Courtesy of Richard and Judy Perkins. Donna Hardy page 31 Managing Editor Ext. 305 [email protected] Executive Director’s Message By Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 Kathy Ortt Education & Classifieds Editor page 5 [email protected] Certification Buy, Sell, Trade, and Janette Torres-Gomez Editor’s Forum AWCI Educational Calendar Employment Opportunities Graphic Designer & By Donna Hardy page 8 page 48 Assistant Technical Support page 4 Ext. 302 [email protected] Projects and Goals of the Affiliate Chapter Highlights Tom Schomaker, CMW21 New Education & Standards AWCI Directory Watchmaking Instructor By Chris Carey Committee 2018 Ext. 309 [email protected] page 42 page 7 Advertisers’ Index Mike Carpenter, CC page 50 Clock Director Affiliate Chapter News [email protected] page 44 Industry Advisory Board Rob McLeod Columns Members Education & Certification Coordinator From the Workshop page 50 Ext. 303 [email protected] Technical Discussions By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI Maureen Seals page 34 Membership Coordinator & Leveling Hairsprings to the Technical Support Balance Cock Ask David Christianson Ext. 301 [email protected] By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FAWI, By David Christianson, CMW21, FBHI, HOROLOGICAL TIMES FNAWCC, FBHI FAWCI ADVISORY COMMITTEE page 37 Bob Little, CC, CW, Chair page 16 Daniel Benson, CMW Paul Corn Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 David Fahrenholz Dale LaDue, CMW21 OUR VISION: Hannah Mancill Matt Schloemer, CW21 AWCI’s vision is to have an educated and passionate horological Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written community practicing the highest standards and with the resources permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers to provide quality goods and services. Institute. Copyright © 2017 by the American Watchmakers- Clockmakers Institute. OUR MISSION: Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly Setting service standards and educating the horological community. and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Subscription price for the public is $175.00 per year Like us on Facebook! Follow us on Twitter! Follow us on Instagram! ($15.00 per copy). Members subscription is $99.00 which is included with annual dues of $175.00. Periodicals post- www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute www.instagram.com/americanwatchmakers age paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and additional entries. Like us on Facebook! Check out our educational videos! POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times, 3 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030. www.facebook.com/MyAWCI www.youtube.com/awci/videos E d it o r ’s Antique Watch Restoration, Open Discussion Forum Vol. III. We trust it will This area of Horological Times is whet your appetite to called Editor’s Forum. One defini- see more. A nt ique Watch tion of forum is “a medium (such Restoration, Vol. III is on as a newspaper or online service) sale for $84.99. Order it of open discussion or expression online www.awci.com/ of ideas.” Always feel welcome online-store or call to start discussions with your fel- 866-367-2924. low members and to express your ideas here. Email [email protected] or write to: Editor/AWCI/701 Enterprise Drive/Harrison OH 45030-1696.

Antique Watch Watchmaking Is Not Restoration, Vol. III a Dying Profession Is Here! Who says that watchmaking is a Author and teacher Archie B. dying profession? Perkins passed away a year ago Here is a picture this month. Archie was responsible of my grandson for educating and inspiring many Kevin Funk, age watchmakers over the years, with 14, in training by his teaching, his writing, and his his grandpa. exquisite drawings. We are happy ~Henry M. Fuhrer to announce that AWCI has just WOSTEP ’66 published the third volume in his series, Antique Watch Restoration. We’d like you to get a sneak peak at what is in this new book, so see page 16 for an excerpt from

Writers for Horological Times can earn between $300 and $875 or more per article. It depends on the length of the article (25 cents per word). Earn a 10% bonus for submitting assigned articles early or on time. If you’d like to write for Horological Times, email [email protected] for guidelines.

4 January 2018 a message from the a message from the president executive director JOSEPH L. CERULLO, CMW, CMC JORDAN P. FICKLIN, CW21

appy New Year! I hope ev- we start a new year, Heryone had a wonderful Hol- Asmany of us make res- iday Season! I’m sure everyone has olutions. At AWCI this year we made and broken a few New Year’s will be focusing on providing resolutions by now. Oh, well, there services that help you make is always next year. money.

Joseph L. Cerullo I wanted to start the new year Jordan P. Ficklin I want to share with you [email protected] by saying a few words about a great [email protected] some of the things AWCI is man that we lost last fall. I know there was an obituary in currently working on that we believe will help your Horological Times last month, but I feel it necessary to give my business grow and help you grow as a horologist. take on Milton Stevens. As you may already know, Milton served as our executive secretary for 30 years. 1. Our New Website AWCI began as AWI in 1960 after the merger of the I think I have some new gray hairs as a result of work- two main horological organizations in the country, the ing on the website, but I hope the end result is worth it. Horological Institute of America and the United Horolog- Our primary goal has been to make the website easier ical Association of America. In 1966 Milton got the job as to navigate. We have given the website two main focus executive secretary, where he remained until 1996. I met areas— Milt in 1980, if my memory serves me, at an annual con- The first is aimed at watch and clock owners. We vention. He was a big man with a deep and loud voice. have made the professional directory more prominent When he spoke, people listened and action followed. As a so they can find your services and understand the val- young man, I was impressed and somewhat intimidated. ue of certification. We had more than 150,000 website Milton was the face and voice of AWCI for 30 years. views last year. This year we want to turn all of those You could say that he singlehandedly drove the rest of us to into referrals. The member directory is the most-visited be the best we could be. Over the next several years of my page on our website, with more than 250 visits per week. involvement with AWI, I got to know Milt and became very If you are not getting referrals from the AWCI directo- fond of him. I believe I owe much of my early rise in the or- ry, there are a few things to consider. Is your directory ganization to him. He ran a tight ship. He had the passion listing up to date? Does it show your address and phone and the power to bring you up through the ranks to the number? Do you have a thorough description of your goal of the presidency or to see to it that you would never services? Have you asked AWCI to list your educational get there. Once I became president, our relationship hit experience and any training you have completed? Are some bumps and there was a time when I felt very alone. you certified? All of these will help you stand out in the Looking back at those days, I realized we were both using directory. You can also pay to highlight your directory our skills and passions for the best of AWI, even though listing and make it stand out amongst the rest. we didn’t always see eye to eye. I had a lot of respect for The second focus area is for watchmakers and Milton and his position. I hold no animosity towards him. clockmakers. We now have 15,000 technical guides on continued on page 47 continued on page 47

Horological Times 5 Get a great deal on ETA 7750 movements AWCI Movement that were used for the certification exam *Movements are sold AS-IS and may have wear, damage, or missing components. To purchase movements call AWCI at (513) 367-9800 While Supplies Last! 19 Option 1: (23 available) Complete Bulova Accutron Watch with case, dial, hands & ETA 7750 Movement. No bracelet AS-IS $300 + Shipping & Handling 21 Option 2: (40 available) Disassembled ETA 7750 movement packaged in vinyl zipper bags AS–IS $105 + Shipping & Handling. Limit 10 per individual, but if they are still available after January 1—no limit

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***ALL items are sold AS-IS without warranty. No returns, refunds, or exchanges. These watches have been used in multiple exams and may have damaged or worn components. Shipping & Handling $25 per order within the United States. $50 International Projects and Goals of the New Education & Standards Committee 2018

AWCI’s mission: Setting Service Standards and Educating the Horological Community.

few years ago, the Board of Direc- projects to make the institute more suc- the CW21 watchmaker by training the A tors decided to place the focus of cessful in fulfilling its mission. Many of apprentice in a short period of time to the institute on education and standards. these goals are not new ideas, just new help out with the less complicated re- This new mission statement reflected that attempts at what may have been started pairs; make it easier for individuals to goal. The Education Committee has been in the past and never completed. enter this profession by not having to a longstanding committee of the institute, GOAL 1: The Standards & Practices relocate across the country full-time tasked with not only overseeing the educa- must ultimately be revised to bring clar- for two years to get training; help the tion required for watchmakers and clock- ity to the Education & Standards Com- CW21 watchmaker fulfill the require- makers, but also the standards required of mittee and the Board of Examiners, ment of mentorship in progression to- bench practitioners. but also to simplify the understanding wards the CMW21. The same progres- The roles and responsibilities of the of watchmaker/clockmaker proficien- sion will be applied to the clockmaker Education Committee have been un- cies. This will not be done overnight but apprenticeship. clear or have been confused with the re- over time and with much discussion and GOAL 3: Implement a watch tech- sponsibilities of the Board of Examiners many small changes. nician certification. This program would for some time. With the newly formed GOAL 2: Build and develop watch- go hand in hand with the apprenticeship, Education & Standards Committee, the making and clockmaking apprentice- but also be open to individuals who are objective is to better define the com- ship curriculums. Traditional appren- in an employment situation where quick mittee’s roles and responsibilities. (The ticeships last three years. The goal is to service is most prevalent. It will also Education & Standards Committee was provide a store or workshop that em- help the consumer differentiate between formed in April, 2017, and changes were ploys a CW21 watchmaker with a full the proficiencies of a watch technician made to the AWCI bylaws and constitu- curriculum to train an aspiring watch- and a watchmaker. tion.) With better defined roles, it will maker in-house. The curriculum would GOAL 4: Work with the Board of also better define the relationship of the include weekly breakdowns of what Examiners to develop a vertical certi- Education & Standards Committee to should be covered and how the appren- fication program, allowing an individ- the Board of Examiners. The two com- tice should progress. Included in the ual to work incrementally from watch mittees should work together to accom- curriculum would be: educational mate- technician to CW21 to CMW21. Ideally, plish things, but not step on one anoth- rials prepared specifically for each skill an individual starting in this industry ers’ toes in the process. set; training movements, if necessary; would have a clear pathway all the way Over the last few years, all forward weeklong courses at AWCI headquar- to CMW21 by working incrementally momentum of the Education Commit- ters followed by an exam module. This on certification modules until all the re- tee has all but been extinguished. We are apprenticeship program would help the quirements have been met for CMW21. looking at a fresh start with meaningful industry in multiple ways: Help free up Aaron Recksiek, CW21, Chair Education & Standards Committee

Horological Times 7 educational calendar

Prices reflect member’s discount! Contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests. Plan Ahead! 2018 Classes Now Available! Reserve your spot today. Contact Rob McLeod at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303. WATCH 375: 2 CEUs $595 Separate Function Case Course for Learn the standard operating procedures (SOP) for disassembly, January Rolex Watches service, and re-assembly of Rolex watches featuring the separation of Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 functions bezel, including water testing. Gain hands-on training with 15-16 Long Beach, California the proper tools and with multiple case designs. Both classes Jan. 15-19 $1,495

WATCH 175: 3 CEUs $1,095 Today’s luxury watch consumer demands perfection. This course is January Case & Bracelet Refinishing (Includes polishing kit) perfect for the watchmaker or dedicated refinisher. It will help you Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 achieve the different finishes on modern watch cases. Also covered is Long Beach, California 17-19 Both classes Jan. 15-19 $1,495 disassembly and assembly of common watch cases.

Evaluate your skill set in this course by exploring the fundamentals WATCH 190: $1,095 of modern mechanical watch repair including cleanliness, lubrication, February 21st Century Watchmaking Standards endshake adjustment, and may include the verification and analysis Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 of escapement function. 5-9 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio

Build on what you know in this course by investigating the verification and WATCH 230: $1,095 analysis of the escapement function, poising (static and dynamic), truing, February Balance Staffing & Timing timing adjustment in a mechanical watch, cutting out a balance staff on Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 a lathe, adjusting the balance staff, and removing the balance staff from 12-16 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio Glucydur balances with the Horia tool.

WATCH 210: $1,095 Expand what you know to increase your profit! Quartz watches can February Quartz & Quartz Chronograph be one of the most profitable sectors of your business. This course Service Procedures & Diagnostics reviews quartz watch repair and quartz chronographs, including the Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 various important electronic tests, giving you the skills you need to 19-23 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio be faster and more consistent at servicing quartz watches.

WATCH 220: $1,095 March Modern Mechanical Chronograph— Brush up on your chronograph skills before taking the CW21 Exam with this ETA 7750 class on the modern mechanical chronograph. It focuses on the service and Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 adjustment of modern mechanical chronographs, such as the ETA 7750. 5-9 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio

This class is perfect for anyone thinking about entering the profession of WATCH 100: $595 watchmaking or the individual who wants to gain a better appreciation of the March Introduction to Watchmaking art of watchmaking. Learn basic skills and techniques used by the modern Instructor: Aaron Recksiek, CW21 watchmaker. Before attending, students are recommended to study Theory of 16-18 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio Horology and be familiar with the basic nomenclature of watchmaking.

WATCH 240: $1,095 This intense 5-day course will help you refine your escapement adjusting April Servicing the Lever Escapement skills. The course covers all of the adjustments for the Swiss lever escape- Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 ment, hairspring, and balance. Also covered is the ETAchron system. 2-6 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio

WATCH 375: 2 CEUs $595 Learn the standard operating procedures (SOP) for disassembly, service, and April Separate Function Case Course for re-assembly of Rolex watches, featuring the separation of functions bezel Rolex Watches including water testing. You will gain hands-on training with the proper Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 tools and with multiple case designs. 18-19 New York, New York

WATCH 175: 5 CEUs $1,350 Today’s luxury watch consumer demands perfection. This course is April 30- Case & Bracelet Refinishing (Includes polishing kit) perfect for the watchmaker or dedicated refinisher. It will help you Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 achieve the different finishes on modern watch cases. Also covered is May 4 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio disassembly and assembly of common watch cases.

8 January 2018 WATCH 375: 2 CEUs $595 Learn the standard operating procedures (SOP) for disassembly, service, and May Separate Function Case Course for re-assembly of Rolex watches, featuring the separation of functions bezel Rolex Watches including water testing. You will gain hands-on training with the proper Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 tools and with multiple case designs. 7-8 Minnesota, TBD

WATCH 300: 5 CEUs $1095 This course includes the complete servicing of a caliber 3035 timepiece June Advanced 21–Rolex 3035 from de-casing through quality control; including identifying counterfeits, Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 pre-cleaning, service, regulating system, automatic system, calendar system, 18-22 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio polishing, casing requirements, water testing, and more advanced concepts.

$2,495 Get certified today. The CW21 Exam is a 3-day examination covering topics in July the AWCI Standards & Practices. If you are interested in becoming a Certified CW21 Exam Watchmaker for the 21st Century please contact Rob McLeod, AWCI’s Educa- AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio tion Coordinator for possible availability 866-367-2924, ext. 303. An exam 9-11 application and a notarized affidavit is required at time of registration.

Prices Vary July Only available to past examinees needing to take just a portion of the CW21 Retakes CW21 Exam. For additional information, contact Rob McLeod, AWCI’s 12-13 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio Education Coordinator, 866-367-2924, ext. 303.

This class is perfect for anyone thinking about entering the profession of WATCH 100: $595 watchmaking or the individual who wants to gain a better appreciation of the July Introduction to Watchmaking art of watchmaking. Learn basic skills and techniques used by the modern Instructor: Aaron Recksiek, CW21 watchmaker. Before attending, students are recommended to study Theory of 16-18 York, Pennsylvania Horology and be familiar with the basic nomenclature of watchmaking.

WATCH 475: 5 CEUs $1095 July 30- Restoration & Construction Learn the techniques involved in vintage restoration and the con- Techniques struction of “kit” watches used by high-end manufacturers. Instructor: Henrik Korpela Aug 3 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio

WATCH 190: $1,095 Evaluate your skill set in this course by exploring the fundamentals of August 21st Century Watchmaking Standards modern mechanical watch repair, including cleanliness, lubrication, endshake Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 adjustment, and may include the verification and analysis of escapement 6-10 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio function.

WATCH 220: $1,095 August Modern Mechanical Chronograph— Brush up on your chronograph skills before taking the CW21 Exam with this ETA 7750 class on the modern mechanical chronograph. It focuses on the service and Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 adjustment of modern mechanical chronographs, such as the ETA 7750. 20-24 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio

WATCH 210: $1,095 Expand what you know to increase your profit! Quartz watches can be one September Quartz & Quartz Chronograph of the most profitable sectors of your business. This course reviews quartz Service Procedures & Diagnostics watch repair and quartz chronographs, including the various important elec- Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 tronic tests, giving you the skills you need to be faster and more consistent at 17-21 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio servicing quartz watches.

Become the go-to watchmaker for modern automatics in your area by WATCH 200: $1,095 learning the fundamentals of mechanical automatic watch repair that are November Modern Automatic Wristwatches most prevalent in today’s market. In this class you’ll investigate how to Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 perform the various components: cleaning, assembling, adjustments, dialing, 5-9 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio and casing.

For additional details about specific courses in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists, visit: www.awci.com/classes or contact Rob McLeod, Education & Certification Coordinator, at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), x303. For additional calendar events visit: www.awci.com/calendar.

Horological Times 9 Bern, Switzerland. 14 Weeks in Europe

By Oliver Broos Revitt, CW21 A watchmaker travels from Australia to Europe for a horological trip of a lifetime.

fter attending AWCI’s 2016 convention and week taking BHI exams; eight days in Switzerland A talking with Henrik Korpela numerous (Armin Strom, Henrik and Kaj Korpela); three days times, I wanted to go to Europe. When I got back at Benzinger; four weeks at Habring; two weeks at to Australia in November last year, I started putting D. Dornblüth & Sohn; two weeks at Sinn; one week together a plan. I was already heading to England for at Mühle-Glashütte; and one week free. the examinations of the British Horological Institute (BHI), which went for a week, but I wasn’t sure what British Horological Institute else to do while I was in Europe. So, I contacted My first week was spent in London where I got over Henrik and Kaj Korpela and both said I could catch jet lag and did all the typical tourist things. The up and spend some time with them. Great! I also second week I caught a train to the middle of England mentioned in a passing comment to the importer of to attend exams in Newark for the BHI. The BHI is some German and Swiss brands that I do work for the British equivalent of the AWCI. They face all the that I was planning to go overseas. He thought this same problems but seem to be making some good would be a good chance for me to visit some of the strides, just like the AWCI, but there is always room brands, and I also thought it was an excellent idea. for improvement. The facility is quite large and has a So, I contacted some of them and to my surprise, six great collection of clocks and watches. Their library of them said yes: Armin Strom, Benzinger, Habring, is massive and houses some very old books. The D. Dornblüth & Sohn, Sinn, and Mühle-Glashütte. training rooms have good equipment for the exams What started off as a two-to-three-week trip and are run professionally like the AWCI. The BHI blew out to 14 weeks: one week in London; one exams are held once a year, and are run over a week

10 January 2018 at Upton Hall. Exams are broken up individually, Armin Strom has approximately 23 employees unlike the CW21 Exam. So, one exam for manual which are made up mostly of people under the age of wind, another for automatic watches, another for 35. I was pleasantly surprised to see so many young chronographs, etc. I took the BHI exams for the people, which, I believe, benefits Armin Strom. same reasons I took the CW21. I wanted to know The company moves fast, and that is clear from where I stood compared to everyone else. Am I glad the development of its first in-house movement in I did it? Of course! I believe continued education is 2009 to its tourbillion a couple of years later, to last imperative to a successful career. year’s Resonance Force. This company has made After a long week, I flew out of Birmingham, massive strides. Over two levels, Armin Strom England, and landed in Zurich, Switzerland. Let has incorporated its front-of-house sales, admin/ me tell you, their customs was tiny compared to marketing and support, research and development, LAX. The lady asked me where I was staying and, manufacturing, high-end finishing, plating, and apparently, I can’t pronounce Biel correctly, so after watchmaking departments. three attempts, she just rolled her eyes and stamped Over the three days, I saw the company culture my passport. That was the only question I was asked! in action; everyone got along and was very helpful. I From Zurich, I drove to Biel to start training with saw problems being solved, staff helping each other, Armin Strom Monday morning. and team cohesion. For example, if someone needed help for a specific finishing technique, another staff Armin Strom member would come over and assist. If the watch- Their manufacture is nestled discreetly in Biel, and makers had an issue with tolerances, they would just if you’re not paying attention you can drive past it. walk downstairs and let the engineer know.

The manufacturing department of Armin Strom.

Horological Times 11 Feature: 14 Weeks in Europe

The polishing department of Armin Strom.

Day one I had a tour of the facility and met everyone. I began in the manufacturing department, which is impressive, to say the least. They have all the machines needed to make a watch, and, clearly, some money has been invested. I was guided through the manufacturing process by Kevin, who is in charge of it. He explained how each machine was used and its purpose. Then, I went upstairs and spoke with Pascal, one of the CAD designers who worked on the Resonance. He showed me in depth how it works and the principles behind it. After lunch, I began in the finishing department. I was surprised the most by the level of finishing they do. At first glance, I only noticed the PVD coating on the plates and case. They firmly believe that even though you may not see a part, it should still be fin- ished to their high standard. The third day was spent in the watchmaking department, where we did some Armin Strom caliber AMR13.

12 January 2018 preassembly and assembly of caliber AMR13, work- Other Manufactures ing through some potential problems. This caliber is As I said, I visited other manufactures while in similar to ADD14 and the AMW11. Europe. Benzinger is a one-man operation. The With its yearly production of no more than 600 owner, Jochen Benzinger, is known for his engrav- units, it stands in a unique position to adjust to prob- ing and guilloche work. He produces approximately lems quickly and introduce new models and other 50 watches a year. Habring is run by Richard and variations. Armin Strom is doing something differ- Maria Habring from the small town Völkermarkt, ent and constantly evolving. It’s great to see them Austria. Three other staff members round off the incorporating new technologies and processes but team. They produce three hundred watches a year, balancing this with traditional finishing. This com- integrating simple, stylish design, with mechanically pany took the bold step to allow customers to cus- practical complications. Dornblüth & Sohn is situated tomize their watches via their website. They allow you in Kalbe, Germany, in a small town of 2,500 people. to change the color and design of components; while Comprising of less than 10 staff members, they pro- you can’t go nuts, the amount of customization is im- duce less than 200 watches a year and manufacture pressive. It is worth a look and a play! As a concept, I a good amount in house, with a high level of hand think this is genius and has been well received by the finishing. Sinn, situated in Frankfurt and compris- public. Visit www.arminstrom.com. ing over 100 staff, produces primarily military style

Some of the staff at Armin Strom. I am on the far right.

Horological Times 13 Feature: 14 Weeks in Europe

watches. Lastly, Mühle-Glashütte, located in the While you’re in Biel, you should check out the famous Glashütte region of Germany, was the big- Omega Museum, which sits opposite the factory. If gest by far, producing watches into the thousands. To you can plan in advance, I would recommend asking this day it is still a family-owned company. for a tour of the facility. I don’t think they just let Visiting each of these places allowed me to anyone through, but if you do work for them in the see how each brand manufactured their watches. US, you could get lucky. Having exposure to different management styles, The Omega Museum looks nothing flash from manufacturing, and repair and finishing techniques the outside. In fact, it actually looked closed when I allowed me to draw on these skills and apply them to went to the door. You push open the first door and my current work as well as aspirations I have for my then have to be buzzed in to get upstairs to the mu- future endeavours. seum. It’s a nice size with a ton of watches and covers the whole history of the brand and its development Museums over the years. Louis Brandt started Omega in 1848, If you’re considering visiting Switzerland, it is well where he originally worked in La Chaux-De-Fonds. worth the trip. I would also recommend visiting as An economic crisis in the 1870s and some tax incen- many watch museums as possible. The Neues Museum tives convinced Brandt to move to Biel. in Biel has a small watch section, but it is quite good. It is not widely known, but Omega has quite There are ample Rolex watches and numerous other a few sister brands. They include Gurzden, Celtic, brands and some machines. This museum is not solely Helvetia, Oriental, Decimal, Regina, Himalaya, for watches, so there are other things inside to have a Patria, Labrador, Goliath, Jura, and Valdez. These look at. If you’re passing by its worth checking out. brands all existed at different points throughout

Inside the Musée international d'horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

14 January 2018 the history of Omega. In 1894 the Brandt family My favorite museum by far was the Musée inter- chose the last letter of the Greek alphabet, Ω, for national d'horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzer- the brand, which means ultimate, perfection, or the land. The number of watches, pocket watches, and end. Omega introduced in the 1896 fair in Geneva clocks they have is amazing. They also had a work- a watch where every component was replaceable shop onsite and a large collection of antique and vin- without modification. They also introduced their tage tools. If you are in Switzerland, this is a must-see. first chronograph in this year. Omega has made around 3,000 calibers, and they Kaj Korpela quickly became known for their timing. If you look From here, I went to visit Henrik Korpela for a day, back through the brand’s history, the quest for more and he showed me around his school. After that I accurate timekeeping has been the backbone of their drove to Bern and stayed with Kaj Korpela for two product. They have always sought to introduce new days. We went to his workshop and discussed meth- innovations or played pivotal roles in the timing of ods of production, manufacturing issues, finishing, sports or their involvement in NASA. The museum and various ways to go about manufacturing. I was focuses heavily on the brand’s involvement with the extremely excited to meet Kaj, since, like all HT read- Olympics and NASA. If you plan to visit, allow at ers, I have thoroughly enjoyed reading Henrik’s arti- least an hour and a half as there is also a 15-minute cles about the making of Kaj’s watch.

video, which is hidden behind some curtains. They All photos courtesy of the author. also provide free audio so you can hear stories as you Oliver Broos Revitt works for an independent watchmaker walk around. in Australia but frequently travels abroad to meet other watchmakers.

The Omega Museum in Biel.

Horological Times 15 Technical Discussion: Leveling Hairsprings to the Balance Cock Leveling Hairsprings to the Balance Cock

By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FAWI, FNAWCC, FBHI (October 31, 1923–January 26, 2017)

This is an excerpt from Chapter 1, Hairspring Work, Part 14: Leveling Hairsprings to the Balance Cock, of the recently published Antique Watch Restoration, Vol. III by Archie B. Perkins.

acceptable procedure for truing hair- View B, Figure 131 shows a flat hairspring that An springs to a watch is to first true the is out of flat in the opposite direction to the one hairspring to the balance cock and regulator pins to shown in View A. To correct this hairspring, the correct any major conditions, then to finally true the needle is placed on the underside of the outside coil hairspring in the watch to correct any minor condi- next to the stud, as shown, and the coil is lifted in tions. After the regulator sweep has been formed and the direction of the arrow to level the hairspring to the spring centered with the hole jewel in the balance the balance cock. cock, the hairspring is leveled to the balance cock. View C, Figure 131 shows the corrected hair- After this, we must recheck the regulator sweep and spring. The hairspring should be viewed from the the centering of the hairspring to make sure that these regulator pin side as well as from the stud side correct conditions were not disturbed during the to make sure that the hairspring is level with the leveling process. balance cock.

Truing Flat Hairsprings in the Flat Figure 131, Views A and B show a flat hairspring which is out of true in the flat 90° from the hair- spring stud. View A shows a condition where the hairspring is almost touching the underside of the balance cock on one side of the collet and almost touching the lip on the regulator key on the other side of the collet. This condition is caused by an edgewise bend in the outside coil of the hairspring at the stud. The correction for this condition is to place a needle or fine tweezers jaw on the edge of the outside coil near the stud as shown and to pull down on the coil in the direction of the arrow. This Figure 131. Views A and B show hairsprings that are is done until the hairspring is level with the under- not level. The arrows show the correction points. side of the balance cock. View C shows the corrected condition.

16 January 2018 Figure 132 Views A and B, show a flat hairspring View C, Figure 132 shows the hairspring after it which is out of flat 180° from the stud. View A shows has been leveled to the balance cock. After a hair- a condition where the spring is too far from the un- spring has been leveled, it must be checked to make derside of the balance cock opposite the stud. The sure that its centering and regulator sweep have not spring would be too low opposite the stud when the been disturbed. balance cock is turned over in its normal operating Figure 133, View A shows a flat hairspring in the position. This condition is caused by a twist in the watch that is cupped down. Note that the outside coil outside coil near the stud. The twist in the coil is re- of the hairspring is level with the balance wheel arm moved with the tweezers by pinching the coil near the but is lower than the pinning at the collet. This condi- stud as shown in broken line. The tweezers are used at tion is caused by the stud being too low in its hole in the the proper angle so when they are squeezed slightly, balance cock. To correct this condition, the stud is the twist will be removed and the spring leveled. raised in the balance cock. View B, Figure 132 shows an out-of-flat condi- View B, Figure 133 shows a flat hairspring that tion that is just the opposite to the condition that is is uniformly cupped up in the watch. This condition shown in View A. The hairspring is high opposite is the opposite to that of View A. This is corrected the stud when the balance cock is turned over in by lowering the hairspring stud. These conditions are its normal operating position. This out-of-flat con- greatly exaggerated in the illustrations. Ordinarily the dition is corrected with the tweezers by grasping the spring would not show this much of a cupped con- outside coil near the stud as shown. The tweezers dition and would not require the stud to be raised or are squeezed to remove the twist in the coil to level lowered very much. the hairspring.

Figure 132. Views A and B show out of level condi- Figure 133. View A shows a low hairspring stud. tions. View C shows the corrected condition. View B shows a high stud.

Horological Times 17 Technical Discussion: Leveling Hairsprings to the Balance Cock

Checking the Overcoiled Truing the Overcoiled Hairspring Hairspring in the Flat in the Flat Figure 134, View A shows an overcoiled hairspring Figure 135 shows one of the first steps used to true fastened to the balance cock by its stud. The spring an overcoiled hairspring to the balance cock. View A, is being viewed with the regulator pins on center Figure 135 shows an overcoiled hairspring attached and the stud is to the right of center. In this view, to the balance cock by its stud. The hairspring is not the hairspring is level. The overcoil is level with the level with the balance cock although the overcoil is balance cock and the body of the spring is level with level with the body of the hairspring. The out-of-flat the overcoil. This is the way the hairspring should condition of the hairspring in relation to the balance appear for it to function correctly. cock is caused by a twist in the overcoil at the stud. View B, Figure 134 shows another view of the Usually a pair of tweezers are used to remove the hairspring. In this illustration, the stud is on center twist in the coil. Sometimes it is difficult to get the and the regulator pins are to the left of center. The points of the tweezers into proper position to manip- spring still shows to be true in the flat. Hairsprings ulate the hairspring. This is because of the close space should always be checked in these two directions between the edge of the balance cock and the over- when truing them in the flat. Note: Although the coil near the stud. The hairspring can be removed hairspring shows to be true on the balance cock, from the balance cock to correct the condition. An- when it is placed in the watch, it could be cupped other method that can be used to remove the twist up or down. This can be caused by the height of the in the overcoil is by the use of a hairspring leveler as overcoil or the height of the stud. shown in View A, Figure 135. Years ago, sets of these

Figure 135. This shows a hairspring that is bent at the Figure 134. This shows two views of a overcoiled hair- stud and the tools that can be used to correct the spring that is true with the balance cock. condition.

18 January 2018 levelers were sold by watch material suppliers. When using a leveler, the slot in the tool must not be so nar- row that it gets stuck on the coil of the hairspring. If this happens, the hairspring could become damaged trying to remove the leveler. View B, Figure 135 shows a leveler that can eas- ily be made by the watchmaker. This leveler is made from a piece of brass or nickel silver wire. A slot is sawed in the center of the end of the wire with a circle saw. A set of these levelers can be made by us- Figure 136. View A shows a condition caused by a high overcoil. View B shows a low overcoil. ing different thicknesses of circle saws for cutting the slots in different diameter wires. When remov- View B, Figure 136 shows an overcoil in the ing the twist in the overcoil that is shown, the level- watch which is level except the body of the hair- ers are moved in the direction of the arrows. If the spring is cupped upward. This indicates that the hairspring should be too high opposite the stud, the overcoil is too low or too close to the body of the levelers would be moved in the opposite direction. hairspring. This causes the overcoil to pull upward on the body of the hairspring causing it to be cupped Overcoil Too High or Too Low upward. The stud cannot be lowered enough to level Figure 136, View A shows an overcoil hairspring in the spring. Therefore, the only solution to the prob- the watch. The overcoil is level with the balance cock lem is to raise the overcoil and make it farther from and is about the correct distance from the balance the body of the hairspring. cock. The body of the hairspring is cupped down, although the outside coil is level with the overcoil. Leveling the Body of the The hairspring stud cannot be raised enough to Overcoiled Hairspring remove the cupped condition of the hairspring. Figure 137 shows an overcoiled hairspring in the This indicates that the overcoil is too high or too watch. The overcoil is level with the balance cock far from the body of the hairspring. In this case, the but the body of the hairspring is out of flat under the high overcoil is pressing the body of the hairspring hairspring stud. downward causing it to be cupped downward. The View A shows a condition where the body of the only solution to the problem is to lower the overcoil spring is low at point “a” under the stud. This con- making it closer to the body of the hairspring. This is dition indicates that there is a twist in the overcoil at done by changing the height of the rise bend whether point “b” which is opposite the stud. To correct this it is a gradual rise or a knee bend. condition, the overcoil is manipulated at point “b”

Horological Times 19 Technical Discussion: Leveling Hairsprings to the Balance Cock

with the tweezers to raise the low point so the body of the hairspring is level. View B, Figure 137 shows an overcoiled hair- spring that has a condition that is opposite to the condition shown in the first example. In this latter case, the body of the hairspring is high under the hairspring stud at point “a.” This condition indicates that the hairspring overcoil is twisted at point “b” but in the opposite direction to the twist in the first example. The twist is removed with the tweezers to lower the body of the hairspring at point “a” until the body is level. Note: When leveling a hairspring, the bend will be 180° from where the spring shows to Figure 137. View A shows an overcoil that is too high be off the most. When centering a hairspring, the at the stud. View B shows an overcoil that is too low bend will be 90° from where the hairspring shows at the stud. to be off the most. Figure 138 shows two other out-of-flat condi- tions. View A shows a condition where the body of the hairspring is low at a point under the regulator pins. This condition is caused by a twist in the area of the rise bend. The exact point of manipulation would be 180° from where the spring shows to be off the most. The spring is manipulated to raise the low point so the body of the hairspring is level. View B, Figure 138 shows an overcoiled hair- Figure 138. View A shows an overcoil that is too high spring with an out-of-flat body. The body is high at the regulator pins. View B shows an overcoil that is under the regulator pins. This condition is caused by too low at the regulator pins. a twist in the outside coil in or near the rise bend. The exact point of the twist is located by determin- ing the point where the spring is off the most and Antique Watch Restoration, Vol III, Chapter 1/Part 14, Bibliography DeCarle, Donald. Practical Watch Adjusting. London: N.A.G. Press, 1964. pp. 51-56. then going 180° from this point to locate the twist. Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking. “Leveling the Hairspring,” Training Unit #11. New York, 1972, pp. 313-315. The tweezers are used to remove the twist to level Sweazey, Thomas B. “Fitting Hairsprings in Watches,” Lesson 20, Sections 390-393, the body of the hairspring. Master Watchmaking. Chicago School of Watchmaking, 1908.

Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FAWI, FNAWCC, FBHI, was a watchmaking instructor and wrote monthly articles on antique watch and clock repair for Horological Times for 25 years. He also wrote Antique Watch Restoration, Volumes I-III, The Watchmakers Lathe and How to Use It, and was co-author of The Watchmaker’s Staking Tool.

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Horological Times 21

Technical Discussion: Adjusting Roof-Mounted Music Boxes in Cuckoo Clocks ADJUSTING ROOF-MOUNTED MUSIC BOXES IN CUCKOO CLOCKS By Paul Corn

get more calls concerning how to adjust roof- wires and things that move, and others feel they are Imounted music boxes in cuckoo clocks than novelty clocks and not worth repairing. Probably the side-mounted music boxes. When the music box is biggest reason they avoid them is that these clocks re- in the roof, it is more difficult to make adjustments, quire adjustments while in the case. On most other remove, or make other repairs to than music box- clocks, adjustments are made while the clock move- es that are mounted on the side of a clock’s case. ment is outside of the case. I’m not saying clockmak- A systematic approach to the overhaul/servicing ers are lacking skills to repair cuckoo clocks. Perhaps if and tweaking for the cuckoo clock in for repair will there were technical papers for these repairs, servicing make the repair person’s life much easier. and adjusting, clockmakers would be more inclined to There are no technical papers that I am aware repair them. This paper is focused on filling that need. of showing how to disassemble, reassemble, and ad- Several different components or assemblies make just mechanical cuckoo clocks. There are very skilled up a cuckoo clock. You have a weight-driven bim-bam clockmakers who avoid cuckoo clock repair. Some strike movement that lifts and drops two bellows clockmakers feel that cuckoo clocks have too many instead of lifting and dropping hammers on two

Horological Times 23 Technical Discussion: Adjusting Roof-Mounted Music Boxes in Cuckoo Clocks

bells or two gongs as the basic clock does. An add- Fig. 2 ed feature is bird advance, which is made up of only four parts. Other features are music, dancers, water wheels, and other things that move when the clock is striking or the music is playing. Each one of these features can be dealt with individually. A systematic step-by-step approach, working with one feature at a time, will greatly improve your skills. You will find it easier, more rewarding, and less time-consuming to complete the repairs and adjustments than you might from the center. Note: The older the clock, the more have thought. brittle the hands will be. Disassembling the Components Turn the clock over and lay it face down to re- Suggested tools: long needle-nose pliers, short nee- move the bellows. Each bellows is held in place with dle-nose pliers, end nippers, screw drivers, tweezers, a screw and a steady pin. Remove the screw, place and slotted bending tools. (The latter are screwdrivers a screwdriver between the case and the bellows with their ends cut off and slots ground into the ends.) whistle, and gently pry the whistle off the steady The cuckoo clock shown in Figure 1 is a popular pin. Hold the bellows’ top with a finger on the lifter one that has a farmer moving his pitch fork back and wire where it goes through the wire loop. Now bring forth when the clock Fig. 1 the bellows out at an angle and unhook the bellows is striking. When the lifting wire from the lifter that is on the movement music starts, the win- with a downward motion until the lifter wire comes dow opens and a girl free from the movement lifter. This way, you don’t comes out, and the have to bend the lower end of the lifter wire to re- man goes up and move the bellows, Figure 3. down the ladder. Fig. 3 Remove the back door and set aside. Place the clock on its back, open the bird door, and using a slotted tool or needle-nose pliers, open the bird door link to a 90° bend and remove the link from the door staple. Do the same for the other door, Figure 2. Remove the hands using the short needle-nose pliers to loosen the nut. There should be a nut, washer, minute-hand collet, minute hand, and hour hand. The hour hand should be removed by twisting it at the center while pulling it off. Always work the hands

24 January 2018 Remove the hooks and rings from the chains and Fig. 4 remove the chains from the movement. Tip: If the weight hooks are all the way up to the bottom of the case, using the end nippers, clip off the last link to remove the weight hook(s), Figure 4. You don’t have to remove the chain from the music box; just take it off of the sprocket and leave it in the case when you remove the music unit. Next, take the movement from the case. Remove the four screws that hold the movement. Hold the L-shaped music box/movement link wire (arrow A in Figure 5) with tweezers, and then bring the movement up at an angle to remove the link from the vertical lever (arrow C in Figure Fig. 5 5). You don’t have to bend this L-shaped wire link to remove it from the movement’s vertical lever. Note: If you are only removing the music box from the case, the L-shaped link will have to be bent out straight to remove it from the movement’s vertical lever. It will have to be re-bent after the music box is reinstalled.

Removing the Music Box Most units are held in with two or three screws that Fig. 6 are on the top of the roof. When you remove the screws, the music box with its mounting board will slip out. Make all repairs to the music box. Tip: Don’t place the music box in the cleaning machine, only the governor. If the music box is placed in the cleaning machine, the dampers will be removed during the cleaning process and the music will have an undesirable tinny, twangy sound.

Adjusting the Music Box pin on the start/stop lever is pulled out of the hole Start/Stop Lever in the main gear, arrow B in Figure 6, the start/stop The shutoff of the music box shown is an older style. lever moves over top of the oval plane due to spring The start/stop lever has a round hole that is loose on tension pulling on the offset of the upper end of the its shoulder screw, arrow A in Figure 6. When the start/stop lever, arrow C in Figure 6. When the music

Horological Times 25 Technical Discussion: Adjusting Roof-Mounted Music Boxes in Cuckoo Clocks

starts to play, the oval plane changes position, and the Adjusting for Proper Operation start/stop lever drops to the same plane as the hole When the start/stop lever pin is out of the hole and on the main gear, Figure 7. The start/stop lever pin resting on the same plane as the hole, Figure 7, the follows the edge of the oval plane until the pin drops prong is adjusted to be as close to the fly as it can into the hole on the main gear, Figure 8. When the be without touching the fly. If this adjustment is not pin of the start/stop lever drops in the hole, the prong correct, the unit will continue to rotate until the hole on the upper part of the start/stop lever contacts in the main gear binds with the pin of the start/stop the fly and stops the music instantly with no drift, lever, stopping the music. When music is called for Figure 9. Note: This is an older style unit and was not on the next hour, due to the binding of the pin in the designed to have the plastic piece of tubing over the hole, it will stop the clock because the clock does not prong like the newer units have. have enough power to pull the pin out of the hole in the main gear when it is binding.

Fig. 7 Fig. 9

Fig. 8 Fig. 10

26 January 2018 On most but not all roof-mounted music boxes, mounting hole at the back top of the case to hold the there is a musician that comes out when the music movement while the chains are threaded through the starts to play. In the one shown, a girl opens the win- holes in the bottom of the case. dow and comes out. The wire form follows a cam When replacing the movement in the case, hold that has a notch in it to swing out the girl instead of the L-shaped wire connector link from the music box a musician and opens the door, Figure 10. The notch with tweezers or needle-nose pliers so the L-shaped in the cam is adjusted just beyond the wire form by part of the connector link is vertical. Bring the move- loosening the screw on the music box shaft after the ment in sideways so the vertical lever on the move- music box has completed its cycle and rotated so the ment is flat. Place the L-shaped piece of the connec- wire form is in the notch, then tighten the screw. tor link in the hole of the vertical lever and turn the When the music box is repaired or serviced, the movement to its upright position. Seat the movement music box with its wood mounting board is held in and replace the movement screws. a vice upside down. Place a chain with a hook and After the movement has been mounted, re- weight on the sprocket and cycle the music box sever- attach the bellows in the reverse order that they were al times, Figure 11. removed by holding the lifter wire by the bellows’ top with a finger on the lifter wire. Then insert the Fig. 11 lower end of the lifter wire in the closed loop of the movement lifter. Note: In most all cuckoo clocks, the longest lifter wire is on the right bellows. The longest movement lifter, the lower one, is connected to the right bellows lifter wire. Music Box Levers There are only two adjustments to control the warn- ing of the music box. When the clock approaches the hour, the cam on the center shaft lifts the movement warning lever. This also moves the vertical lever to- wards the right side of the case. This is what triggers Replacing the Components the start/stop lever on the music box via the L-shaped After repairs are made to the movement, music box, wire link (arrow C, Figure 5). At the same time, the and bellows, if needed, replace the music box with its rack hook is being lifted by the movement warning mount in the top of the case and connect the girl’s lever, and this moves the vertical whipping wire that wire link to its door. Next, place the chains on the is attached to the rear of the rack hook arbor to the movement. Tip: After placing the chains on the right and into the fly to hold the music box in warn- movement, place the movement center shaft in the ing while the clock is striking (arrow B, Figure 5).

Horological Times 27 Technical Discussion: Adjusting Roof-Mounted Music Boxes in Cuckoo Clocks

When the clock is striking, the whipping wire Fig. 12 will be moving back and forth but fully engaged and holding the fly due to the gathering pallet lift- ing and dropping the rack hook when the gathering pallet is gathering the rack teeth. When the strik- ing completes its cycle, the rack hook falls below the rack and the whipping wire moves to the left and clears the fly. At this time the music starts and completes its cycle.

Adjusting the Music Box Levers for Note: The whipping wire on the cuckoo clock shown Proper Operation is long, and at the end of the whipping wire it will The first step is to adjust the vertical lever to trigger have a longer distance of travel back and forth when the start/stop lever on the music box. Adjust the ver- the clock is striking. The whipping wire must only tical lever with the two slotted tools near the top of contact the fly and not any other part of the gover- the vertical lever at arrow C in Figure 5. Make this nor. This is true for most all music boxes/movement adjustment by bending the vertical lever left or right configurations. until the vertical lever pulls the start/stop lever on the music box out of the hole and on top of the oval Fine Adjustment plane when the movement goes into warning on the The fine adjustment is made using the slotted tools hour. Note: If the vertical lever is bent too far to the to bend the whipping wire as needed. Place the right, the music will play on the half hour also. The clock in warning and strike at the hour by rotating music should only play on the hour. the center shaft. Just as the lifter lever releases for The second step is to make a coarse adjustment strike, remove the weight. Use the slotted tools to to the whipping wire. Tip: To make this adjustment bend the whipping wire so the end of the whipping easier, when the rack hook is in the zero position, wire is under the edge of the fly. When the clock place a tooth pick through the movement to hold the goes into strike, the whipping wire will be in con- rack hook firm when this adjustment is being made. stant contact with the fly as the whipping wire is A movement only is pictured to show the detail, moving back and forth. After striking stops, the Figure 12. Loosen the screw that holds the whipping whipping wire will move to the left beyond the fly wire on the rack hook arbor and adjust the whipping and the music will start. wire so there is about 1/4" distance from the whip- I hope this has been informative and will help ping wire and the tip of the fly. (Remember to remove you when making future repairs on cuckoo clocks. the tooth pick when the coarse adjustment is made.)

Paul Corn is an independent clockmaker and owner of Fine Clock Repairing in Waldorf, Maryland.

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Photo courtesy of Baselworld.

hortly after the close of last year’s Baselworld, to 700. This is about half the number of exhibitors Sshow organizers announced that the 2018 Basel- from 2017, about 1,300, and substantially less than world would be shortened from eight days to six the show’s peak of 2,000 in 2011. days. It was speculated this move was due to low at- Many high-end luxury exhibitors have left and tendance and a decline in exhibitors, but show orga- gone to exhibit at the Salon International de la nizers insisted that it was a conscious effort to focus Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in January, but most of on quality, not quantity. the lost exhibitors are from the lower-end segment In more shocking news, it was announced in No- of the watch industry. vember that the 2018 show space will be reduced by three-and-a-half halls, about one-third of the total Source: www.forbes.com/sites/carolbesler/2017/11/09/big-changes-at-baselworld-half-the- space, and exhibitors will be limited to between 600 exhibitors-space-reduced-by-one-third-shorter-duration/#66bdfcd748dd

Aaron Recksiek is an independent watchmaker in Salt Lake City, Utah. He is a graduate of the 2008 WOSTEP class at the Lititz Watch Technicum.

30 January 2018 Hodinkee Expands into Official Online Retailer

By Aaron Recksiek, CW21

odinkee, arguably the world’s biggest and the source they get their information from can allevi- Hmost popular online watch editorial blog, ate that unpleasantness. announced they are now an official online retailer The Hodinkee Shop has certainly ironed out for eight watch brands. The announcement came many of the kinks that could hamper an online re- through a statement from founder Benjamin Clymer tailer of luxury products. The success has already released on the site November 13. The Hodinkee been shown not only on the sales of vintage watches, Shop had already been a well-established hub of but also with the sales of Hodinkee exclusive watch- watch ecommerce, a place where you could es that have been achieved through collab- browse a respectable selection of vintage oration with several watch brands over the Hodinkee“ watches, horological publications, tools, last couple of years. Hodinkee has sold 331 is as much a and accessories. The shop now features brand-new watches online, seven total ex- tech company new watches from Grand Seiko, Longines, as it is a media clusive collaborations, with total sales ex- NOMOS Glashütte, Oris, Ressence, TAG company as it ceeding $4 million. As far as the new col- Heuer, Vacheron Constantin, and Zenith. is a commerce lections go, they will only sell watches “that According to Clymer, consumers are company. we really love and think will resonate with ready to buy new watches online, and you.” In other words, they won’t be forced ” Hodinkee would like to be a part of that ~Ben Clymer to carry an expanded product line just to be significant transition. Regular readers of the site authorized to sell the product, as many traditional are young, with an average age of 37. It also rep- retailers must do. resents a relatively affluent group, where 40 per- Every watch ships free with domestic overnight cent of readers make above $250,000 a year. shipping or expedited international shipping and will Clymer also believes that the traditional retailers arrive with a free certified insurance appraisal and have not kept up with the modern collector. He have the option of painless cash-back return periods. explained, “For many Hodinkee readers, we know Hodinkee is also giving an extra year of warranty cov- everything about the product already, and we just erage with each watch, although it is unclear whether want the experience to be as easy and painless as or not that will be an extra year of coverage through possible.” It can be frustrating for buyers when they the manufacturer or through a private service com- walk into an authorized dealer and they know more pany hired by Hodinkee. And according to Clymer, than the sales staff. Buying watches directly from it’s not just the freebies that make the experience of

Horological Times 31 Industry News

buying watches better through them—it’s the inter- that we produce.” This statement makes apparent that face. Hodinkee is very proud of the quality of the they don’t claim to be an independent source of news, photos they have been able to produce in-house, but a group of watch lovers who write about and pay as well as the ease of the Hodinkee app. They use attention to what they like, and they don’t worry about the example of a $172,000 Paul Newman Daytona, giving an unbiased perspective of the entire industry. purchased through the app earlier this year, and paid Hodinkee is currently owned by a group of in- for with Apple Pay. The Hodinkee app allows you to vestors, some members of that ownership group compare the look of the watches on your wrist with include Apple's Chief Design Officer Jony Ive, actor the use of the device’s camera. As Clymer puts it, Ashton Kutcher, pro skateboarder Tony Hawk, and “Hodinkee is as much a tech company as it is a media musician John Mayer. company as it is a commerce company.” Most news outlets gain funding through adver- Putting aside the financial impact this will have tisements and sponsorships from companies that are on Hodinkee, the most significant issue that I think selling products and services. In this case, Hodinkee needs to be addressed is journalistic objectivity. In will be benefitting financially directly from the sales the announcement released by Hodinkee, under the of these products through their own sales portal, and sub-heading “Editorial First and Foremost,” Clymer in my estimation, the shop will quickly become their describes the team of nine full-time editors, pro- primary revenue stream. These are two very differ- ducers, and writers in charge of the content the site ent relationships that should be recognized as such. produces. He addresses the issue with the following At times, keeping the watch-collecting public prop- statement: “We will continue to write about things erly informed may require being critical of the Swiss, we like and ignore the rest, just as we always have. German, Japanese, or American watch industry; or, And those fantastic editors that you love so much will in some cases, highlighting some unfavorable aspects never be told to write (or not write) anything at all, of a particular brand. It will be interesting to see if just as it is today. In fact, we hope that the move we a future story will get pushback (not that we would are announcing today will actually increase trans- necessarily know) as the truth could potentially affect parency about our relationships with watch brands the sales of some of these brands that will be selling and other players in the industry. You know who we product through the Hodinkee Shop.

work with, you know who we don't—it's up to you to Sources: decide what to read, but we've found that the vast www.hodinkee.com/articles/new-hodinkee-shop-welcome www.jckonline.com/magazine-article/how-the-wrist-was-won-innovative-retailer- majority of our readership simply loves the content benjamin-clymer-of-hodinkee

Aaron Recksiek is an independent watchmaker in Salt Lake City, Utah. He is a graduate of the 2008 WOSTEP class at the Lititz Watch Technicum.

32 January 2018 High-tech for professionals

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would you like to read what makes brits tick?

The Horological Journal – published monthly without fail since 1858 – gives you exclusive technical articles and practical updates on clock and watch making.

You’ll find news on the latest issue and how to get it at www.bhi.co.uk Column: From the Workshop From the Workshop By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI

Friction sufficient friction to advance the hands and power We generally understand friction to be the resistance a date mechanism, if so equipped, without any slip- that one surface or object encounters when moving page. A cannon pinion with too much frictional re- over another. While that concept is easy to under- sistance will make the watch difficult to set and may stand, controlling friction is a complex and not thor- result in damaged wheels and pinions in the dial train oughly understood subject. Friction is an important or setting parts, and possibly damage escapement consideration in mechanical systems. Sometimes we parts. Too little friction will cause the hands to lose desperately want to decrease the amount of friction time or entirely stop, even though the time train of to increase the efficiency of a mechanical system as the watch runs properly. The hands on a watch with in an automobile engine. At other times, we need to a calendar display may keep time for 20+ hours per maximize friction as in automobile tires designed day, and then stop when the calendar advance mech- for snow and ice traction. Horological engineers also anism is engaged because the cannon pinion does not deal with minimizing friction in the oscillator, the have enough friction to drive both the hands and the escapement, and the wheel train of a watch. In those calendar display. Although there are several different parts of the watch, friction is a major source of bad cannon pinion styles, almost all can be adjusted and all timing. However, sometimes we need lots of friction, require lubrication. as in press fittings such as the attachment of hands Automatic watches are constantly wound while to the motion works. Sometimes, and most problem- in use. They require a clutch with sufficient friction atical, we need controlled friction in clutches. Exam- to permit full winding of the mainspring. Once the ples include the attachment of a cannon pinion to a mainspring is fully wound, the clutch slips and pre- center wheel, the mainspring bridle of an automatic vents any further winding of the mainspring until winding mechanism, and the control of backlash of some of the stored power is used to drive the time an indirect sweep second pinion. The problem with train, after which the clutch again permits further precision control of friction is that the materials that winding. Unlike the cannon pinion, which can have interact—the surfaces and the lubricants used—are its friction adjusted by a watchmaker, the automat- unstable. Therefore, the amount of friction set during ic mainspring clutch is not mechanically adjustable. manufacture is not easily maintained through the Watch manufacturers design the barrel wall and the lifetime of the system. bridle (the slipping part of the mainspring) to inter- Nearly every timepiece with an analog display has act with the appropriate friction for each watch cali- a clutch somewhere in the dial train.1 The frictional ber they manufacture. In addition to the mechanical resistance in this clutch must be balanced so that the design, the manufacturers also specify the lubricant hands can be freely set, clockwise or counterclock- that must be used for a clutch to operate as designed. wise, without upsetting the time train but still have Other than cleaning the barrel and mainspring, and

1. There are a few quartz watch models that were made without any clutch for the dial train. Some of these were electronically set. Others were set by forcing the entire time train to run clockwise or counterclockwise by turning the crown.

34 January 2018 lubricating the clutch properly, there is little else to the edge of the barrel cover in order to inject some be done in adjusting this critical friction point in the oilstone powder between the barrel wall and the bri- watch. A failure in this area is best remedied with dle to increase the sliding resistance of the bridle. I new, factory-genuine spare parts. had to read this several times to be certain that I read Watches with indirect sweep second hands, the article correctly, and sure enough, that was what and some chronographs, utilize a friction device to he wrote. Of course, that was a short-term solution control gear backlash. While not functioning as a which would create additional problems very quickly, clutch, the brake spring will cause significant prob- but it does illustrate the need for controlled friction. lems if improperly adjusted. Omega caliber 550 se- His recommendation seems absurd now, but over the ries and Rolex caliber 1530 series have brake springs years I have seen numerous other attempts to modify that control the backlash of the sweep second hand. brake spring friction, and most of them fail misera- An indirect sweep second hand is fit to a pinion that bly. It is not unusual to see all kinds of stuff oozing offers little resistance to its motion. Without any ex- out when you open an automatic barrel. Some appear tra applied friction, the sweep second hand will drift to be oil saturated with graphite, or KT-22 grease clockwise and counterclockwise several degrees smeared all over the mainspring and barrel wall, or when the position of the watch is disturbed, thus even automobile transmission lubricant. These are a giving the appearance of unsteady motion. A sweep challenge just to clean and prepare for reuse with a second brake spring is used to apply controlled fric- proper lubricant. tion to the pinion. This allows sufficient friction to Current manufacturer-recommended bridle lu- permit a smooth, steady clockwise motion of the bricants include Kluber and TEPA. I have no equip- hand, without causing the excessive friction that will ment to test the effectiveness of any bridle lubricant, rob power from the time train and cause timekeeping other than observing the timekeeping performance errors. These brake springs require careful adjust- after following the technical guides from various ment to balance the friction and prevent backlash manufacturers. Kluber is a stiff, almost fibrous black without interfering with the timekeeping. Dial grease now specified by many manufacturers as a bri- washers are often considered endshake limiters for dle lubricant. It is applied to the barrel wall as six the hour wheel. Some watches will run well without equally spaced small dots of grease before installing a dial washer, but the hour hand will drift slightly as the mainspring. Another major manufacturer recom- the watch is moved, due to the backlash in the dial mends TEPA, which has a translucent grease-like train. A dial washer2 is a brake spring. Its friction is appearance. This is applied as a light coating around slight and not adjustable. the entire barrel wall. When manually winding the watch, bridles lubricated with Kluber seem to offer Adjusting Bridle Friction more resistance to winding than those lubricated with Many years ago, I read in a horological magazine about TEPA. When fully wound, both lubricants seem to a method of increasing the friction of a mainspring provide smooth, reliable friction for the bridle. bridle. The writer suggested drilling a small hole at

2. An Accutron caliber 214 Spaceview is an example of a watch without a dial washer.

Horological Times 35 Column: From the Workshop

“Goldilocks Zone” When this movement was produced, neither After lubricating the bridle of a vintage Omega cal- Kluber nor TEPA were available. At that time, many iber 330 bumper spring automatic watch movement manufacturers were recommending the use of vis- (circa 1955) with Kluber, the watch’s power reserve cous oil, oil with molybdenum sulfide, or graphite as was just under 30 hours if worn on the wrist. Man- a barrel wall lubricant. Also, automatic mainsprings ually winding the watch increased the power reserve were usually regular, manual-wind mainsprings that to nearly 40 hours. The mainspring was new and hooked to a separate bridle. A repair such as this correct for the movement so why would the watch one may involve some experimentation because we run longer when manually wound? Also, when ful- are using modern, self-lubricating mainsprings in ly manually wound, the oscillating weight would no addition to synthetic lubricants unheard of 60 years longer move by gravitational force alone. When the ago. To paraphrase the porridge temperature in the mainspring was partially unwound, the weight would Goldilocks story, we need to get the friction neither wind the watch, but not fully. All the clearances and too tight nor too loose. It must be just right as in the endshakes in the automatic mechanism were OK, so “Goldilocks Zone.” the watchmaker hypothesized that the Kluber of- Credit: I recently spent several hours discussing friction with Jerry Sussman, AWCI member fered too much resistance to automatic winding. He and MIT faculty member, in preparation for this month’s article. cleaned the barrel and wiped the mainspring before applying TEPA to the barrel wall. Then he retested

the automatic winding. This time it wound automati- Jack Kurdzionak, watchmaker and watch material special- ist, owned a Boston-area watch sales and service shop for cally sufficiently to provide nearly 40 hours of reserve 40 years. He has a BS (Northeastern University, 1967) and has studied at ETA, WOSTEP, BHI, SGUS, and AWCI, and power. Problem solved. works for Eckcells Watch Materials.

When you are not sure if you can get parts: Visit AWCI’s Brand Directory awci.com/brand-directory Creating our new Directory of Spare We do not list brands in this direc- We know that sometimes you will A link to the directory appears on Parts Policies was hard work. The com- tory until they have been given ample have an experience that conflicts the AWCI home page so that consum- mittee spent many long hours on the opportunity to respond to the survey. with what a particular brand report- ers can openly see which brands sup- phone with watch brands to get the Once we have recorded their respons- ed in their survey results. Use this port independent repairpersons. responses you see at awci.com—and es, the results immediately appear on directory as a tool. When you are told Brand representatives who feel their the work is not done. This directory our web page. Brands that decline to you cannot order parts for a brand company has been misrepresented is a dynamic list, and the committee participate in the survey will appear that has indicated they sell parts to should contact AWCI so that we can ac- continues to reach out to brands in an in the directory with a note indicating watchmakers, please take the time to curately report their company’s policies. effort to complete the list. their refusal to participate. explain to the representative that in When members of the watch-col- We hope this directory will be a recent survey they reported to the lecting community visit the directory, a valuable tool in your workshop. American Watchmakers-Clockmakers they will see critical information to When you see a brand that isn’t on Institute that they sold parts to watch- help them make an informed decision the list, we would like your help. makers. Mention the name of the indi- about purchasing a watch based on the A blank copy of the full survey is vidual who gave the survey responses. brand’s after-sales service and spare available at awci.com. Please take If you still do not get the same results, parts policies. As a member of AWCI, every opportunity to ask watch brands ask them if they would like to submit when you log in to the webpage, you to participate in the survey. Record new responses to the survey. Please will see the complete survey responses your responses and send them to AWCI report your findings to AWCI. and contact information. so we can update our directory.

36 January 2018 Column: Ask David Christianson

David Christianson CMW21, FBHI, FAWCI

Omega Watch Co. Deck Watch Question

I have a very old brass, Swiss-made ship’s clock. I'm looking to have an appraisal done on it. Here are some pictures of this fantastic timepiece. Omega watch C9 on the clock face, “Swiss made by Louis Brandt & frère, 17 seventeen jewels, adjusted two positions,” are stamped on the inside back of clock mechanism. That’s all it says on the clock. It’s in perfect working condition. The only number that I can find on it is: EC166. This is shown in one the pictures.

Jeremy

Answer Louis Brandt, a 23-year-old watchmaker, estab- lished a watch-trading office in La Chaux-de- Fonds in 1848. “Outsourcing” (“etablissage”) was the rule back then. This meant that Brandt purchased movement blanks and all other parts for his watches; he then had them assembled and cased by outside vendors. His contributions were design, regulation, final quality control, and shipping. In principle, anybody could do that,

Horological Times 37 Column: Ask David Christianson

but Brandt’s watches soon stood out from the rest German Industrial Clock due to their superior quality and excellent design. Question After the death of his father, Louis and his brother My dad gave me this clock years ago with hardware moved to Bienne, quit the practice of “etablissage,” to fix it. I've not been able to find anyone who could. and set up a true watch factory in 1880. (Lucien I don't even know what kind of clock this is. The F. Trueb, The World of Watches, History, Technolog y, writing on the face says: Fr Gutenkunst in Stuttgart. Industry, Ebner Publishing International, New York Can you help me?

City, 2005, 296-297.) Ms. Townsend Kathleen H. Pritchard (Swiss Timepiece Makers, 1775-1975, Phoenix Publishing, West Kennebunk, Maine, 1977, O-9 to O-15) tells us that the company, founded as Louis Brandt in 1848, became Louis Brandt & Fils (and along with Brandt Frères) in 1880, and became Louis Brandt & Frère in 1891. In 1894 the company introduced a new brand name—Omega. In 1903 the company’s name was changed to SA Louis Brandt & Frère, Omega Watch Company. With this historical information I can deduce, along with the style, finish, and design of the move- ment, that the movement (marked Louis Brandt Frères, not SA Louis Brandt & Frères) was made between 1891 and 1903. I think the dial is marked Omega Watch Co (not Omega Watch C°). The Brandt firm’s name was officially changed to the Omega Watch Co. in 1903. I think that the very newly named Omega Watch Co. put a movement made earlier, when the company was still Louis Brandt & Frères, into a case and used a dial made in or shortly after 1903 to create your very interesting gimbaled Omega Watch Co. deck watch.

David Christianson

38 January 2018 I restored a clock movement just like this one two years ago. The one I did was marked with Gustav Becker’s trademark. Judging from the style of the trademark and the style of the movement, the clock was made in about 1895. The clock is called a German industrial clock because it was mass-produced in an industrialized clock factory in the German states. At the height of this industrialization in the clock industry, there were more than 400 clock manufacturers, with Becker being one of the very largest.

David Christianson

Answer I could only guess what you have from the two photos of the outside that you sent. But after I explained how to remove the dial and movement through the front door (it slides out on two rails), you were able to provide photos of the front and back of the movement. Those photos showed that you have a German industrial, eight-day time-and- strike wall clock made by Gustav Becker of Silesia, a region of what is now Poland. Gustav Becker began producing clocks in Freiburg, Silesia, in 1847 and combined with Gebruder Junghans in 1926 in Schramburg, Germany.

David Christianson is a graduate of Purdue University, the Kansas City School of Watchmaking, the Gemological Institute of America, and is an internationally known horological historian.

Horological Times 39 Feature: What Your Retail Trade Accounts Really Want from You What Your Retail Trade Accounts Really Want from You

By Nick Pechman, CW21 you are a watchmaker or clockmaker who yyTake-in forms with very clear direction on If independently completes “trade work” for how you’d like them to use it. local retailers, such as jewelry stores, I hope you yyAn inexpensive timing machine for use at will find the following tips helpful to your business their retail counter.

relationship and your bottom line. The following Note: This special tool is guaranteed to pro- five points are based on my personal perspective, vide you more paid work while also reduc- having worked in the watch business for several ing the frequency of watches sent your way years at the bench, service counter, sales floor, back that simply are not being wound properly. office, and boardroom. I am currently the president of JB Hudson Jewelers, which employs three in- Help Your Account Provide Simple house certified watchmakers, while also relying on Estimates to Their Clients at the several outside trade watchmakers and clockmakers. Time of Drop-Off JB Hudson attempts to pre-approve all incoming Provide a simple, straightforward price list that the repairs with ballpark estimates of cost and timeframe retailer can use to preapprove jobs at the point of to best manage expectations of clients and vendors. take-in. Clients almost always want to know a gener- al estimate of cost and turnaround time immediately, Provide Basic Training so help the trade account deliver that information! Unless your retail trade account is in the watch busi- Provide a simple price list that covers all the basics ness, the staff is not very likely to know how watches and includes a total expected price and timeframe. operate or be comfortable diagnosing broken time- Keep it simple.

pieces at the counter. So train them! Make sure the Note: Err on the high and long side. If your average people taking in repairs have the following resources: modern automatic watch service wholesales for $250 yyBasic knowledge of how timepieces func- and takes four weeks, your simple price list should say tion along with a simple movement diagram. $300 and six weeks. It’s always better to deliver quicker and at a lower cost than the retailer expects.

40 January 2018 Break Down Your Estimates into Further, retail jewelers are always looking for “Required” and “Optional” new ways to drive excitement and create memorable Clearly mark “required” services and clearly mark experiences for their guests. Why not offer to help “optional” services, including case and dial refin- with their upcoming watch event? Charge an hourly ishing. For the “optional” services, please include rate to be onsite and engage with their clients. After your professional recommendation. For example, all, meeting a watchmaker can be a unique experi- you may offer optional hands replacement with a ence for clients and further establish the retailer as note: “The existing hands are functional but dis- an authority in the watch business. Do not promote colored—new hands are recommended.” Or, “The yourself, but promote the store you work with. Ex- case is heavily worn, but refinishing will reduce the cite clients about the fact that you’re the guy taking market value of this collectible vintage Rolex. I rec- care of them, and you’re proud to have a relationship ommend not refinishing.” with such a fine retail partner.

Nick Pechman is president of JB Hudson Jewelers, a Communicate by Email luxury jeweler in Minnesota. Accounts love digital paper trails. During business hours they are so busy with clients that phone calls AWCI Board Meetings and messages can get lost in the shuffle. Emailed Now Open to All Members! estimates can be read and later referenced with ease. All members are invited to participate in the monthly Further, retail accounts prefer to email some clients; conference calls of the Board of Directors. The meeting will so please make it easy for them to cut and paste— be streamed live using the GoToWebinar format, which will bullet points are great! allow all interested AWCI members to participate. To participate in the next meeting you will need to register at least 24 hours in advance. You will need to have Make a Personal Appearance from your AWCI member number available. Time to Time After you register, we will verify your membership. The morning of Get to know the primary individuals who drive your the call you will receive an email with instructions to join the call. business by getting in some face time. Shake the You will be able to listen to the entire meeting. At certain times during the meeting your feedback may be requested, and you will be hand of the person who signs your checks . . . you able to briefly share your thoughts by using the "raise your hand" button will probably get paid faster! Make the team aware in the platform. The experience will be very limited for individuals who that you are at their disposal when needed. call in on the phone without logging in on their computer.

Horological Times 41 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter Highlights Affiliate Chapter Highlights Massachusetts Watchmakers/Clockmakers Association, Inc. By Chris Carey Officers: Nick Butt, President • Wayne Lannon, Treasurer • Conrad Fitton, Secretary • Chris Carey, Financial Secretary

the time of writing this, the Massachusetts We’ve had various presentations over the past years. At Watchmakers/Clockmakers Association, Inc. Jon Weber presented on the precision Sattler clocks. just had its last meeting for fiscal year 2017 at Antonia’s Weber said Sattler clocks are advertised to be within +1 Restaurant on Revere Beach in Revere, Massachusetts. second a month, and they sell kits for a little over $5,000.

Our president, Nick Butt, gave a report and a slide show He showed one that he purchased and assembled. Weber about his experiences at the 2017 AWCI convention in visited the factory in Germany on an NAWCC tour. Bob Tampa. We had about 15 attendees. Each year, we have Ockenden presented on repairing the Chelsea Ship’s Bell five regular meetings at various locations in the greater clock. Bob Frishman, Fellow of the National Association Boston area. Our meetings generally include a dinner and of Watch & Clock Collectors, and a Freeman of the a horological presentation. We take the winter months off Worshipful Company of Clockmakers in London, United because of the likelihood of snow. Our next meeting will Kingdom, gave a historical presentation on Rufus Porter be in March of 2018. We also occasionally go on field who made a clock with some unique features in Billerica, trips as a group as the opportunity arises. Past field trips Massachusetts. Porter was also an inventor, painter, and

have included a tour of Electric Time Corp. where they are the founder of the Scientific American magazine. restoring old, and producing new, tower and street clocks, Jack and Dave Kurdzionak giving a PowerPoint presentation about their trip to a tour of Chelsea Clock, and a tour of the “Ships, Clocks Baselworld and other side trips in Switzerland. & Stars: The Quest for Longitude” exhibit at the Mystic Seaport. We viewed artifacts and art objects, including three working replicas of Harrison’s H1, H2, and H3 timekeepers, and the original case of the successful H4, all on loan from National Maritime Museum in London. Mystic Seaport was one of only four sites worldwide selected to show the exhibit.

42 January 2018 The Massachusetts Watchmakers/Clockmakers As- Bob Ockenden giving sociation, Inc. was founded in 1956 as the Massachusetts a presentation on the Chelsea Ship’s Bell. Watchmakers Association. The name was changed in the 1990s to include the clockmakers. Our mission as stated in our bylaws is “to bring together, at frequent intervals, those who are interested in the betterment of all phases of watch and clock making, and agree to be open minded and liberal in judgement toward any or all proposals which tend to promote goodwill among watchmakers, clockmak- ers, and affiliates.” Our members include all skill levels and interests from novice, to master, and to hobbyist. We have members in Rhode Island, New Hampshire, and Maine. All are invited to attend our meetings. Check us Chris Carey is a watchmaker and clockmaker in Massachusetts. He has served on AWCI's Board of out on Facebook. Directors as Secretary and as Affiliate Chapter Director.

Do you enjoy spending time with other watchmakers and clockmakers? Join Your Local Affiliate Chapter for more information log on to awci.com/about-us/affiliate-chapters Florida Indiana Minnesota New York Ohio Texas LWT Alumni Florida Watch & Clock- Indianapolis Minnesota Clockmakers Horological Society of Watchmakers-Clock- Capital Area Watch & Association makers Association, Inc. Horological Association Guild New York makers Association Clockmakers Guild Fabio Rodrigues, CW21 Monique Baez, President Ivy Booth, President Ed Hydeman, President of Ohio Glen Morehead, President Aaron Recksiek, CW21, President President 2064 Alysheba Drive 612-719-0161 New York, NY Michael Gainey, CC21 Jay Holloway, Secretary [email protected] Pflugerville, TX 801-580-7673 (C) 786-344-2840 Indianapolis, IN 46234 [email protected] President [email protected] www.hs-ny.org 512-294-7371 317-374-3915 Dean Ziegenbein, Secretary Columbus, OH [email protected] 4651 152nd Court [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.lwtalumni.org Matt Hritz, CW21 Apple Valley, MN 55124-6801 New York State Watch- 614-833-0378 (B) www.cawcg.org 952-454-1247 makers Association Vice President Massachusetts [email protected] Dale LaDue, CMW21 Mark A. Baker, CMW, CC21 Virginia Sarasota, FL International Rep Massachusetts Watch- West Henrietta, NY Treasurer Horological Association 941-993-0514 makers-Clockmakers 15852 ½ St. Rt. 62 [email protected] Missouri 585-424-1493 of Virginia Association, Inc. Metro St. Louis Watch- P.O. Box 292 John Polk, President Christopher Carey makers-Clockmakers North Carolina Damascus, OH 44619 116-C Ballast Rock Rd. Richard LeBeau, CMW21 Newton, MA Association North Carolina Watch- 330-537-3939 (W) Powells Point, NC 27966 Treasurer 617-244-3779 Judit Katona, Secretary makers Association [email protected] 804-335-5006 Saint Petersburg, FL [email protected] [email protected] Mack R. Shuping, CW21 [email protected] 727-347-3758 http://havhome.org [email protected] Minnesota Treasurer Pennsylvania The Chronometer Club Midwest Watchmakers- New Jersey Winston Salem, NC Watchmakers Associa- Wisconsin Michael Griner, CW21, President Clockmakers Association Watchmakers Associa- 336-287-8402 tion of Pennsylvania Chris Wiles, CW21 George H. Jones Wisconsin Horological Panama City, FL Fred Fischer, President tion of New Jersey 336-768-1857 (fax) Society Education Chairmen State College, PA 850-866-4303 239-671-3203 Hugo, MN Richard Cuny, President [email protected] Jeff Bergey, CMW, President [email protected] 651-429-3340 Tom’s River, NJ 814-238-1668 (B & H) Oregon, WI [email protected] [email protected] 732-818-9460 [email protected] 608-835-3698 (W) [email protected] www.mwca.us www.wanj.us 608-843-7153 (C) [email protected] www.thechronometerclub.org

Horological Times 43 Affiliate Chapter NEWS Minnesota Clockmakers Guild (MCG) MCG’s December program was “Methods of Pivot Polishing.” Members brought wheels and pivots to use at four different hands-on stations. Ron Saboe helped with the shop-built powered polisher. Su- san Wood ran the Rollimat station. Richard Zielike worked the station with the hand graver on a jew- eler’s lathe. Ron Widenhoefer demonstrated using buff sticks and how to renew a graver. Steve Robb shared the prototype build of his clock for the JB Hudson Jewelers’ horological creator’s prize. For the November meeting, Thomas Becker showed a variety of different mechanical calculating Future MCG Meetings/Topics: machines such as the Additor-Aritma hand calcula- January 4, 2018—Soldering Techniques for Small tor, Curta calculator, and slide rules. He gave their Parts and Assemblies, with George Fisher history, explained their operation, and described January 20, 2018—OTL Restoration Meeting how they were used. Becker explained how the le- February 1, 2018—Visit to Blackstone Manner vers, keys, and functions of each of the mechanical Clocks in Hopkins, Minnesota, with Mark Purdy calculators worked. March 1, 2018 –Home Visits: What Do You Do on For door prizes Steve Robb donated four books a House Call? with Richard Zielike from Linda Sue Eastman: With the Watchmaker at MCG OFFICERS the Bench, by Donald DeCarle; How to Make a Weight President: Ivy Booth · 612-719-0161 · [email protected] Driven 8 Day Wall Clock, by John Wilding; How to Treasurer: Garth Antila · 715-386-3575 · [email protected] Secretary: Dean Ziegenbein · 952-454-1247 · [email protected] Make a Skeleton Clock, by John Wilding; and The Watch Escapement, by Henry Fried. Chuck Sandager, Horological Society of New York Ivy Booth, Tom Becker, and Jeff Johnson won the (HSNY) The following information was obtained from The Horologist's Loupe, submitted by Christa Chance, books. For Show and Tell, Steve Robb shared the Recording Secretary, HSNY, Copyright©2018. Published by the Horological Society of New York, Inc.; prototype build of his clock for the JB Hudson all rights reserved. Jewelers’ horological creator’s prize, including CAD The Development of a Practical drawings of the train and grasshopper escapement Watch Escapement layouts. Editor’s Note: See page 22 for information Roger W. Smith, Founder, Roger W. Smith Ltd., Isle of on how you can enter the JB Hudson Jewelers’ horo- Man, British Isles logical creator’s prize. At the December 2017 meeting of HSNY, Roger W. Smith presented an in-depth look at the development of a practical watch escapement. Smith's continued

44 January 2018 development of the Daniels co-axial escapement is pushing the practical watch escapement to new levels of efficiency and reliability. Smith's lecture served as a continuation of George Daniels’s famous lecture on escapements, which inspired him to begin his career in watchmaking. The American Watchmaker- Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) recently digitized and published a video of Daniels giving this lecture Roger W. Smith in his workshop on the Isle of Man, British Isles. at an AWCI National Convention in 1990, which Image courtesy of Roger W. Smith Smith recommended that all attendees watch prior HSNY OFFICERS to his upcoming lecture. President: Nicholas Manousos Vice President: Michael Fossner Roger W. Smith’s horological career began when Recording Secretary and Librarian: Christa Chance he enrolled at the Manchester School of Horology Treasurer: Charles S. Salomon at age 16. Smith graduated at the top of his class, Capital Area Watchmaker and and won the British Horological Institute’s Bronze Clockmaker Guild (CAWCG) medal. During the course, Dr. George Daniels Central Texas Affiliate Chapter - American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), www.cawcg.org (1926-2011) was a visiting speaker and inspired CAWCG conducted a lathe class in November. The the first steps of Smith's now famous journey to class was considered a great success with twenty make a watch according to Daniels’s method. After members attending. Dennis Warner, Glen Morehead, working alongside his mentor in the creation of the Michael Webb, and Jay Holloway lead the program. Millennium Series of watches, Smith established See photos on page 46. A veneer class is scheduled for his own studio on the Isle of Man in 2001 and January 27-28, 2018 at the Windermere Clubhouse debuted his Series 1 watch. Five years later in 2006, in Pflugerville, Texas. Over two days, the class will Smith introduced his Series 2 watch. In 2013 Smith cover an introduction to veneer and the types, uses, was invited by the UK Prime Minister’s office to and problems associated with working with veneer. become an Ambassador for the GREAT Britain Instructors will discuss kinds of woods used as campaign, creating the now iconic GREAT Britain veneers on American clocks, and what can be used watch. In 2015, Smith announced the first range of as a substitute if veneer of that type is not available. authentic British watches in decades, comprising Techniques to contour veneer will be discussed and the reimagined Series 1 and 2 alongside newly demonstrated as well as staining patches to match developed Series 3 and 4 watches, all featuring the existing woods. Participants are cautioned, “This latest evolution of the Smith single-wheel co-axial will be a hands-on class. It takes time and patience escapement. to do veneering, so don't expect to finish a project in a few hours. This is not a difficult process, just a time-consuming one.”

Horological Times 45 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter News

Using the bench grinder to form a cutter for use at the lathe.

Using a sharpening disc in the lathe to sharpen a cutter for the lathe. Note: When using abrasives at the lathe, the lathe bed should be protected unless it is a dedicated lathe for abrasives.

CAWCG OFFICERS President: Glen Morehead · [email protected] Vice President: Rob Putney · [email protected] Secretary: Jay Holloway · [email protected] · Sharpening a handheld graver using a jeweler’s Treasurer: Hugh Lindsay [email protected] hone and sharpening jig.

The Watch Repairer’s Manual by Henry B. Fried This book is frequently used as the textbook for courses in watch and clock repair. It is ideal for individual study as well. Published in 1986, the 4th edition includes the six chapters on case settings and winding systems, motor barrels and jeweled main wheels, the verge fusee watch, repairing fusee chains, how to make a verge (staff), and the duplex escapement, which were not present in earlier editions. A total of 26 chapters comprise this 456-page book, along with a glossary, appendices, and over 550 illustrations. Written by Henry B. Fried, dean of American watchmakers, BHI Silver Medalist, and honored teacher, this book is the perfect reference for the beginner, the trade watchmaker, hobbyist, collector, or anyone interested in horology. $59.99 To order, go to the online store at www.awci.com. Recommended reading for CW21 certification

46 January 2018 President’s Message continued from page 5.

In fact, over the years after I grew fonder of him, I re- months ago, to scan all the technical guides. These took alized Milton Stevens was a good man and, I believe, a up several file cabinets of space. In the past members great asset to this organization. would call up and request a document, which would be Speaking of passion, there is a lot going on here at pulled and copied, and then sent or faxed to them. Now AWCI. Jordan and the staff have launched our new web- we have over 15,000 technical documents online at your site. I hope all the membership takes advantage of all the fingertips. I hate to admit it, but I have only recently start- tools available to them at the touch of a mouse. Headquar- ed to use all the tools that are available. Please do yourself ters recently finished a project, which was started several a favor and use the tools!

Executive Director’s Message continued from page 5.

our website. If you have technical guides that aren’t on 3. Exciting Classes our website that you would like to share with your fellow In January we return to California with classes for the Rolex horologists, we invite you to send them to us so we can Separation of Function Bezel and Case & Bracelet Refinish- include them in our library. We have digitized more than ing. We will be at several affiliate chapters throughout the 40 videos, and we are releasing videos from our archive year. Henrik Korpela returns to the United States in August. every week. These include videos on clock repair by J. M. We are working with Rolex again to offer the Advanced 21 Huckabee, historical presentations by George Daniels, class on Rolex 3035 service procedures. Henry Fried, Robert Gruen, Philippe Dufour, and more. You’ll find them under Education/Careers>Instructional 4. Annual Convention Videos. If you have suggestions for more content, please let Our annual convention will be in Austin, Texas, October us know. The spare parts directory is still active and easier 10-13. Austin is an exciting city with plenty of entertain- to access on the new website. ment. In fact, if you like music, the world-famous Austin City Limits Music Festival will take place the weekends be- 2. Facebook Groups fore and after the convention, so you may want to arrive We have two new Facebook groups that we hope will help early and/or stay some extra days. Look for more details you network with fellow horologists. Due in part to the huge about the convention and things to do in Austin in future success we have seen in a Facebook group called Jewelers editions of Horological Times. Helping Jewelers, we launched Clockmakers Helping Clock- makers and Watchmakers Helping Watchmakers. If you are on Facebook, this is an easy way for you to connect with fellow horologists, get questions answered, sell your services, find specialists, and so much more.

Horological Times 47 Classified Ads help wanted for sale for sale Bobs Watches FOR SALE Come Join Our Team! New old stock Swiss made We have an immediate opening for a CW21 or SAWTA Watch movements, cases and crystals or WOSTEP technician with experience in Rolex Thousands of Complete Manual Movements watches, and high grade movements. We are a well Excellent Price for everything Retired established leader in pre-owned watches and have a For Sale! Contact Saad Girgis at 972-632-6457 brand new, authorized, state of the art repair facility [email protected] with the best tools and equipment. Our office facility offers a friendly business casual environment where Parts, tools, equipment, and fixtures. wanted to buy teamwork is one of our many objectives. Email directly at [email protected] $37K ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS 480-839-7570 Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and watches. We have helped over 200 watchmakers in the last 15 years to dispose of their accumulations. When you’re really ready to sell, we’re ready to buy! Master Watchmaker Phone 229-928-9092 or 727-327-3306. Gray & Sons Jewelers Ask for Jeff or Nancy. Miami Beach, FL E-mail: [email protected] Master watchmaker wanted for the largest seller of fine pre-owned watches in the world. See www.grayandsons.com for watches we buy, sell, and repair. Minimum 10 years experience repairing Patek RETIRIN Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Piaget. Experience in Our new 2016-2017 Catalog of Parts chronographs, perpetual calendars, auto movements & and Repair Supplies is now available... Buying all parts lathe work. $70,000 / year plus benefits. Free with any order! and Please fax or e-mail your resume. or call/write for your 305-865-9666 • Email [email protected] copy today... equipment $5.00 postpaid ✦ Watch Repair Tools & Check out other Supplies Help Wanted ads at ✦ Clock Repair Tools & . www.awci.com Supplies... for American and European clocks 818  . click on ✦ Horological Repair/ Education/Careers Career Center Reference Books Browse through our Rolex Dial Wanted http://awci-jobs.careerwebsite.com inventory and order Buying Rolex dials and parts. Top premium prices for vintage! on-line 24-hours a day!... Daytona: up to $20,000 situations wanted www.merritts.com Submariner: up to $5,000 CLOCKMAKER/TECHNICIAN GMT: up to $4,000 CC21 Clockmaker is seeking employment in the Explorer: up to $2,000 greater Denver CO or Front Range area. 1860 Weavertown Rd, Modern dials Gent's: $100 - $1,000 Please email: [email protected] Douglassville, PA 19518 Call: 617-742-0221 for resume and experience info. 610-689-9541 FAX: 610-689-0567 Email: [email protected]

WATCHMAKER/TECHNICIAN Follow us on Twitter! Follow us on Instagram! 30 years experience www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute www.instagram.com/americanwatchmakers Horology School Graduate Like us on Facebook! Check out our educational videos! Please contact John: [email protected] www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes www.youtube.com/awci/videos

48 January 2018 Classified Ads wanted to buy tradespeople 2018 CLASSIFIED POLICY AWCI HT classified advertising fees/rates and minimum Wanted: Chronograph Movements and Parts DENNIS KAYE Advanced Clock Repair Services schedule remain the same as last year. We request that Paying for Valjoux 69, 72, 88 up to $800.00, Venus 178 you put all classified advertising on a credit card. We $300, Longines 13 ZN, 30 CH $500.00, 108 Corgy Drive • Cary, NC 27513 accept MasterCard, Visa, American Express and Discover. Movado 90, 95 $300.00. Also buying high-grade Call 540-SERVICE (737-8423) movements and parts. Now Restoring Painted & Silvered Dials! If you require a physical invoice and 30-day terms, your Dean Sarnelle Porcelain Dial Restoration rates will be higher due to the additional costs incurred in 25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401 Watch • Pocket Watch • Clock labor, supplies and carrying charges. Platform Escapement Repair 540-885-6064 Atmos Parts & Service HT Classified Rates for 2018: [email protected] Kundo / ATO Coil Repair For Credit Card Payments… For Paper Invoicing… Large Stock of Electric Motors • $1.10 per word • $1.20 per word and $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ All Types Clocks Serviced • Classified “Display” ads • Classified “Display”ads Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling- Panerai - Prompt Reliable Service . . . Guaranteed™ with art borders: $47.50 with art/borders: $52.25 Le Coultre Vacheron - AP - Etc. Large Supply of Watch Movements & per col. inch (2.25” wide) per col inch (2.25”wide) Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, Parts for LeCoultre, Wittnauer & Longines • Blind ads – add’l $15.00 • Blind ads – add’l $16.50 Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Signs, Call or Visit at dialrepair.com per ad per ad Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, Polish Cloths, Minimum Schedule: 3-Month Minimum Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo Items, ANYTHING! MAINSPRINGS Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 Advertising studies show it takes over 3 viewings for readers Clock and music box - All sizes. to recognize specifics in your ad. Custom made. Brass gear blanks. Deadline: 30 days before first of month for WANTED WATCH BOXES Timewise (formerly TANI Engineering) Ph: 330-947-0047, E-mail: [email protected] month you plan to run. Buy - Sell - Trade Note: If you place a recruitment ad on the www.awci.com We want most major brands. Career Center as a combo online/HT ad, there’s no need Also buying high-end jewelry brand boxes. to resend the ad to us. The website system is automatic. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 services To Place Your Ad: Email: [email protected] Fax: 513-367-1414 or SERVICE/SALES OF TIMING AND Call: 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924)/513-367-9800 WE BUY WATCHES CLEANING MACHINES Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Vibrograf, L&R, and Watchmaster Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Over 19 years experience Modern or Vintage. Quick repairs & reasonable prices Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 www.timemachinerepair.com Dale Sutton 609-374-5880 or Horological Times Advertising Policy & Editorial Policy [email protected] Advertising Policy for the Horological Times tradespeople The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the publisher’s standards. The publisher may, at the publisher’s sole dis- ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE cretion and for any reason and without notice, decline to publish or republish any ad, in which YOUR SHERLINE SOURCE case any fees submitted or paid for such ads shall be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The We are Factory Authorized Service for: publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. The advertiser and/or agency agree to assume lia- LATHES MILLS TOOLING • Greiner VIBROGRAF bility for all content of advertisements printed. The advertiser will also accept responsibility for 5% to 15% OFF LIST any claims or suits arising therefrom brought against the publisher. Printed articles may also be • TICK-O-PRINT & L&R used by the publisher without permission expressly sought, or payment made, on www.awci. We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate PETE CRONOS recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. com, the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Facebook page, or via other media. Editorial material and letters of opinion are invited, but reflect the opinions of the authors PETESTOOLS.COM • [email protected] 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 only and do not represent the views of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute 870-974-2583 Used Equipment Bought & Sold (AWCI), its directors, officers or employees. AWCI reserves the right to edit all submitted mate- For Information rials and is under no obligation to accept any submitted materials for publication. The approval procedures are available from AWCI and at www.awci.com. The appearance, reference, or ad- 415-479-8960 vertisement of any product or service in this publication shall not be deemed an endorsement FENDLEY & COX WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST www.electronicinstrumentservice.com of such products, methods or services by AWCI, its directors, officers, or employees. 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 Publisher’s Standards RICHARD COX, 972-986-7698/CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI AWCI makes a concerted effort not to publish any advertisement which promotes or depicts DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, practices not in harmony with our professional Standards & Practices for Watchmakers & www.fendley-cox.com FINEST QUALITY, Clockmakers. The advertisement of generic parts, tools, and materials is allowed when such advertisement does not possess any trademarked image, brand, or name. Advertisers can refer quantity works welcome. to the items by name, function, quality, size, and description. Genuine parts can be advertised Specialize on changing dial feet as such in accordance with the advertiser’s relationship and agreement with the manufacturer. Watch Parts Fabrication: We encourage advertisers to reach out to our members and market goods and I make all types of movement parts: Vintage to positions to fit the quartz movement. services which will help them to professionally service their clients and repre- Send your works to: KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE sent themselves in a way which will “reflect positively on him or her, on the AWCI, modern. MATT HENNING CW, 413-549-1950 and the entire watch and clock repair industry, including all of its participants.” 112 Central Avenue North, Kent, WA 98032 – AWCI Code of Ethics www.henningwatches.com 253-852-5125

Horological Times 49 awci directory There is no comparison to the classes I’ve taken ADVERTISERS’ INDEX BOARD OF DIRECTORS Fellows with“ Tom Schomaker at AWCI. After many years in * Robert F. Bishop AWCI Courses Officers * James H. Broughton Fred S. Burckhardt the industry I was surprised at what I had forgotten 513-367-9800 8 Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: President Alice B. Carpenter British Horological Institute [email protected] David A. Christianson over time, and amazed at all that I learned. I’m really bhi.co.uk 33 Aaron Recksiek, CW21: Vice President * George Daniels [email protected] Wes Door Cas-Ker Co. Jack Kurdzionak, CW21: Treasurer and IAB Jerry Faier glad that I chose to take them. 1-800-487-0408 21 Director * Henry B. Fried [email protected] * Josephine F. Hagans Clocks Magazine ~Chris Wiles, CW21 clocksmagazine.com 33 Peter Pronko, PhD: Secretary * Orville R. Hagans ” [email protected] * Ewell D. Hartman JB Hudson Jewelers * Harold J. Herman [email protected] 22 * J.M. Huckabee * Gerald G. Jaeger Jules Borel & Co. Immediate Past President Jack Kurdzionak 1-800-776-6858 ...inside front cover Fred T. White, CMW21 * Benjamin Matz [email protected] NAWCC * Robert A. Nelson nawcc.org 21 * Hamilton E. Pease Directors * Archie B. Perkins Renata Justin Harrell, CW21 Robert D. Porter 800-527-0719 ...back cover [email protected] Antoine Simonin Craig Stone, CW21 * William O. Smith, Jr. Witschi Electronic Ltd. * Milton C. Stevens [email protected] witschi.com 33 Dennis Warner Dennis Warner, CW21: Affiliate Chapter Director * Marvin E. Whitney [email protected] Peter Whittle *Deceased [email protected] American Watchmakers- Parliamentarian Clockmakers Institute Paul Wadsworth 701 Enterprise Dr. [email protected] Harrison, OH 45030 Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI 513-367-9800 Fax: 513-367-1414 [email protected] • www.awci.com

WE THANK THE IAB AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their ongoing support of the institute and the industry.

Supply Co., Inc.

50 January 2018 There is no comparison to the classes I’ve taken with“ Tom Schomaker at AWCI. After many years in the industry I was surprised at what I had forgotten over time, and amazed at all that I learned. I’m really glad that I chose to take them. ~Chris Wiles, CW21 ”

TIME IS MONEY Increase the quality and quantity of your work and become more profitable with classes from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. We offer refresher and advanced courses designed to help you sharpen your skill set and stay current with the latest service techniques.

ARE YOU CERTIFIED? Invest in yourself by taking your skills to the next level, and becoming a Certified Watchmaker of the 21st Century (CW21). Becoming certified demonstrates your high level of expertise to your customers, elevates your store above the competition, and enhances the brands you carry. Start the process today by registering for our 21st Century Standards Course.

Not sure which course to sign up for? Log onto our website and fill out our experience questionnaire or contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests.

Call or email our Education & Certification Coordinator today for more information: [email protected] | Phone: 1-866-367-2924, ext 303 0118 HT NextGen_OL.indd 1 12/15/17 12:53 PM