Restoration & Construction Techniques

October 2018 SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY

AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE Don’t lose track of time.. CALIBRATE EVERY TWO YEARS

Current machines Out of production machines

• Watch Expert G4 • Expert red (serial # >3,000) • Chronoscope S1 G2 • Expert II & III • Micromat C for Chronoscope X1 • Watchmatic I, II & III Elma blue • Micromat C computer version • New Tech Handy I • New Tech Handy II • Watchmaster I & II Elma blue • Analyzer Q1 • Chronoscope S1 G1 • Analyzer Twin • Chronoscope M1 • Q Test 6000 • Wicometer Pro

GPS receiver uses 4-5 satellites to transfer a 1 pulse per second signal (1 Hz) to the timing machine.

STOCK # DESCRIPTION PRICE TS-CALIBRATION A TIME BASED, ACCURACY UP TO 1/5000 OF A SECOND PER DAY $150.00 * Allow for 1 week turn around time JULES BOREL & CO. PHONE 800-776-6858 FAX 800-776-6862 WEB JULESBOREL.COM IN THIS VOLUME 42, NUMBERissue 10, October 2018 Feature Shop Tip: Seth Thomas No. 124 TM October 2018 Collectors and Mainspring-Winding Arbor SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY Watchmakers Unite By Bob Little, CC, CW Restoration & Construction Techniques Under RedBar Group page 20 Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute By Ken Nichols EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES page 23 American Watchmakers- Industry News Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) New Website for Authorized 701 Enterprise Drive AWCI News Watch Dealers

Harrison, OH 45030 Vice President’s Message AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- By Aaron H. Recksiek, CW21 CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) By Aaron H. Recksiek, CW21 page 28 or 513-367-9800 page 5 Fax 513-367-1414 Popular Watch Blog Worn & [email protected] • www.awci.com Cover Image: www.facebook.com/MyAWCI Executive Director’s Message Wound Opens Online Watch By Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 Store See page 14 for an article on Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 restoration techniques. page 5 By Aaron H. Recksiek, CW21 Photo courtesy of Henrik Korpela. Executive Director page 28 Ext. 310 [email protected] Affiliate Chapter Highlights Donna Hardy By Dale Sutton Movado Acquires Entry- Managing Editor Columns Ext. 305 [email protected] page 33 Level Watch Brand MVMT By Aaron H. Recksiek, CW21 From the Workshop Kathy Ortt page 29 By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI Editor Affiliate Chapter News page 35 page 31 [email protected] Update: WEKO Chooses Not Janette Torres-Gomez to Open Investigation into Classifieds Graphic Designer & Convention News Swiss Watch Brands Assistant Technical Support Buy, Sell, Trade, and Ext. 302 [email protected] Jason Champion, CW21, and By Aaron H. Recksiek, CW21 Jason Ziegenbein, CW21 page 29 Employment Opportunities Tom Schomaker, CMW21 By Donna Hardy page 39 Watchmaking Instructor page 9 Horological Society of New Ext. 309 [email protected] York Opens Offices and AWCI Directory Mike Carpenter, CC21 Goes International Clock Director Technical Discussions Advertisers’ Index clocks@awci.com Restoration & Construction Techniques By Brock McKee page 42 page 29 Rob McLeod A Hands-On Class with Education & Certification Coordinator Henrik Korpela Industry Advisory Board Ext. 303 [email protected] By Donna Hardy Education & Members Maureen Seals page 14 Certification page 42 Membership Coordinator & Technical Support AWCI Educational Calendar Ext. 301 [email protected] page 6 HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE Bob Little, CC, CW, Chair Daniel Benson, CMW OUR VISION: Paul Corn AWCI’s vision is to have an educated and passionate horological Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 Dale LaDue, CMW21 community practicing the highest standards and with the resources Hannah Mancill to provide quality goods and services. Brock McKee Matt Schloemer, CW21 Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written OUR MISSION: permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Setting service standards and educating the horological community. Institute. Copyright © 2018 by the American Watchmakers- Clockmakers Institute. Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Like us on Facebook! Follow us on Twitter! Follow us on Instagram! Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute www.instagram.com/americanwatchmakers Subscription price for the public is $175.00 per year ($15.00 per copy). Members subscription is $99.00 which Like us on Facebook! Check out our educational videos! is included with annual dues of $175.00. Periodicals post- www.facebook.com/MyAWCI www.youtube.com/awci/videos age paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and additional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times, 3 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030. Announcing the Archie Perkins Mobile Horology Classroom

The AWCI Board of Directors has made a historic decision that will change the future of horological education in the United States. We understand it is difficult to leave the workshop and travel to receive training, so AWCI will be bringing education directly to you in the places where you live and work. The Archie Perkins Mobile Horology Classroom is part of a renewed effort to expand our educational offerings to include all segments of the horological community, including professional watchmakers, professional clockmakers, sales and support staff, technicians, collectors, and anyone with an interest in horology. The Mobile Horology Classroom will be the first of its kind anywhere in the world! After many months of deliberation, AWCI has begun construction on the Archie Perkins Mobile Horology Classroom. The mobile classroom will travel all over the United States offering horological education at every level. The classroom will provide a much better learning environment than what can be offered in a hotel meeting room or conference room. The classroom will accommodate eight students and one instructor with custom-made, adjustable-height watchmaking benches. Instructional technology will be similar to what is currently available in our Harrison classroom, including a digital microscope, bench camera, document presenter, projector, and monitors. There will be a dedicated cleaning room with automated cleaning machine, ultrasonic, and steamer. The classroom is ADA accessible with a wheelchair lift and accessible restroom to accommodate the needs of every individual. When the Archie Perkins Mobile Horology Classroom arrives in your city, you can expect it to stick around for one to two weeks. AWCI will offer a class for professional watchmakers as well as one for clockmakers. We will team up with local jewelers and AWCI members to host collectors’ events and classes and to provide technician training for sales and support staff. If you are interested in bringing the classroom to your city, please contact our To follow the construction progress of our mobile education coordinator, Rob McLeod, at classroom please follow us on Facebook and Instagram. These [email protected]. are exciting times for horological education. Soon there will be more classes taught in more cities than anytime in American watchmaking history. We look forward to seeing you in our mobile classroom soon! a message from the a message from the vice president executive director AARON H. RECKSIEK, CW21 JORDAN P. FICKLIN, CW21

ecently, our executive di- I write this, we are ex- rector tasked the board periencing our first Rmembers with a thought ex- autumn-likeAs day in Cincinnati. ercise to help stimulate con- It is only 60° outside. Hurri- versation about the benefits cane season has begun. We just AWCI offers and the value experienced the remnants of members are getting for their Tropical Storm Gordon while membership dues. In my opin- Hurricane Florence is bearing Aaron H. Recksiek Jordan P. Ficklin [email protected] ion, this is one of the key down on the Carolinas, and responsibilities of a board [email protected] Olivia is set to be the second member, so I decided I would respond to his inquiry hurricane to hit Hawaii this season. The kids are back in this month’s message. in school and it feels like summer is over. So, what does My intention is not to make this a sales pitch for fall bring for AWCI? continuing membership or to acquire new members, First, AWCI will be present at the Cincinnati Maker but more of a conversation where I can explain my Faire. We will be demonstrating bluing techniques, thoughts about our institute. There has never been helping people build their own clocks, and encourag- a question in my mind whether or not the $175 an- ing a love of horology. The weekend after that we will nual membership dues are worth the money. When be participating in our second major NAWCC event you crunch the numbers, each member actually costs this year as we head up to the Ward Francillon Time the institute around $500. So, right away each mem- Symposium in Dearborn, Michigan: ber is getting a $300+ subsidy towards benefits. Yes, Cars, Clocks, and Watches. Last is our Do you there are Industry Advisory Board members who pay annual convention, which requires promote and more dues than individuals, but prodigious planning and effort so it Upon reading those funds make up a small per- can be a huge success. encourage centage of AWCI revenue. The This year we are hosting more Horological Times the love of extra money not paid by mem- than 25 students from four different every month, I bers comes from interest de- watchmaking schools at our conven- horology? rived from the James M. Dodson tion. We are excited to have so many have a greater Perpetuation Fund. This money students attend. I want to thank all of our members appreciation goes to pay employees’ salaries for supporting these students and for welcoming them for all the great work they do. into this great profession. I especially want to thank for my fellow It also pays for the headquarters C.R. Time, Mike Dempsey, Dale Sutton, and a gener- professionals. building in Harrison, Ohio, and ous anonymous donor for their financial support that all the its expenses. Paying au- allows us to make convention attendance free for stu- thors, printing, and shipping costs for this fine maga- dents at REC schools. zine represent a significant cost to the institute as well. Because we are so busy preparing for the conven- I would like to highlight three reasons why mem- tion, I want to keep my message short this month and bership is invaluable. One of the more tangible bene- just leave you with a question to ponder. Our code of fits is the membership referral directory. This, for ethics states me, is a no-brainer. I usually get two to three phone In business practices, each member will conduct him calls a year from people who found me through the or herself in such a manner as will reflect positively on AWCI.com website. The profit alone from a full ser- him or her, on the AWCI, and the entire watch and vice will pay for my membership for the year, no clock repair industry, including all its participants. continued on page 38 continued on page 38

Horological Times 5 educational calendar Reserve your spot today. Contact Rob McLeod at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303. Prices reflect members’ discount! Contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests. $595 Students will work in pairs to get a better understanding of gear engagements and October Gear Train Design to troubleshoot weaknesses in gear trains and find remedies for them. They’ll test Instructor: David Lindow wheels and pinions in a depthing tool and choose the best of them. Then they’ll lay 8-10 Austin, Texas out the gear train in a set of plates, make shafting, and do press fits as well. Austin, Texas October 10-13, 2018 American Watchmakers–Clockmakers Institute Join us at our NEW Horology Fair! This event will be open to the public and ALL October are welcome to sell their horological wares. For additional information go to pages AWCI Horological Gathering 11 and 21. H G Austin, Texas O N RO RI 10-13 LO HE GICAL GAT

WATCH 200: $1,095 Become the go-to watchmaker for modern automatics in your area by learning November Modern Automatic Wristwatches the fundamentals of mechanical automatic watch repair that are most prevalent in Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 today’s market. In this class you’ll investigate how to perform the various compo- 5-9 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio nents: cleaning, assembling, adjustments, dialing, and casing. WATCH 190: $1,095 Evaluate your skill set in this course by exploring the fundamentals of November 21st Century Watchmaking Standards modern mechanical watch repair, including cleanliness, lubrication, endshake Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 adjustment, and may include the verification and analysis of escapement 12-16 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio function. Register Now for 2019 Classes!

FREE The purpose of each two-day session is to expose the watchmaker to a watch type January Skills Evaluation Sessions 1-3 of their choosing that contains common and not so common errors for repair. After Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 the watchmaker repairs the timepiece within a designated period of time, it will 14-19 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio then be disassembled and evaluated in front of the watchmaker.

WATCH 190: $750 Tom brings his fundamentals course to the West Coast! In this 3-day class Tom will January 21st Century Watchmaking Standards teach proper cleanliness, lubrication, and endshake adjustments as well as the stan- Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 dard set by the major watch manufacturers. 28-30 Long Beach, California (Both Classes Jan. 28-Feb. 1—$1,095) $595 January 31- Chronograph Short Course Eureka! Chronograph lovers, this class is just what you’ve been looking for. In this Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 2-day course Tom will cover the checks and adjustments for the modern mechanical Febrary 1 Long Beach, California (Both Classes Jan. 28-Feb. 1—$1,095) chronograph.

WATCH 175: 5 CEUs $1,350 Today’s luxury watch consumer demands perfection. This course is perfect for the February Case & Bracelet Refinishing (Includes polishing kit) watchmaker or dedicated refinisher. It will help you achieve the different finishes Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 on modern watch cases. Also covered is disassembly and assembly of common 4-8 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio watch cases.

WATCH 100: $1095 This class is perfect for anyone thinking about entering the profession of watchmak- February Introduction to Watchmaking ing or the individual who wants to gain a better appreciation of the art of watch- Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 making. Learn basic skills and techniques used by the modern watchmaker. 18-22 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio

WATCH 220: $1,095 Brush up on your chronograph skills before taking the CW21 Exam with this class on March Modern Mechanical Chronograph—ETA 7750 the modern mechanical chronograph. It focuses on the service and adjustment of Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 modern mechanical chronographs, such as the ETA 7750. 18-22 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio

WATCH 210: $1,095 Expand what you know to increase your profit! Quartz watches can be one of the April Quartz & Quartz Chronograph Service Procedures & Diagnostics most profitable sectors of your business. This course reviews quartz watch repair Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 and quartz chronographs, including the various important electronic tests, giving 8-12 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio you the skills you need to be faster and more consistent at servicing quartz watches.

WATCH 190: $1,095 Evaluate your skill set in this course by exploring the fundamentals June 21st Century Watchmaking Standards of modern mechanical watch repair including cleanliness, lubrication, Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 endshake adjustment, and may include the verification and analysis of 17-21 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio escapement function. For additional details about specific courses in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists, visit: www.awci.com/classes or contact Rob McLeod, Education & Certification Coordinator, at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) x303. For additional calendar events visit: www.awci.com/calendar.

6 October 2018 Build A Watch events calendar

Build your very own watch!

Build a Watch is not only great for collectors and watch enthusiasts, it’s also perfect for sales staff and customer service specialists. Why not have your staff join us for a day of watchmaking to learn more about the products they sell, how you perform a quality service, and what it takes to properly complete a repair?

$995 Holiday Inn Austin, Midtown October Build a Watch 6000 Middle Fiskville Rd 9 Austin, Texas 78752

$995 Holiday Inn Austin, Midtown October Build a Watch 6000 Middle Fiskville Rd 14 Austin, Texas 78752

$995 Oak & Oscar November Build a Watch 3701 N. Ravenswood, Suite 305 10 Chicago, IL 60613 For more information go to: www.awci.com/buildawatch To find out how you can bring one of these events to your store, contact Rob McLeod, Education & Certification Coordinator, [email protected]

Horological Times 7 After taking the classes ‘21st Century Watchmaking “Standards’ and ‘Modern Mechanical Chronograph—ETA7750,’ I gained a great deal of knowledge as well as respect for the art of what we call watchmaking. Tom is an amazing instructor who is full of knowledge. I only wish I had more time to spend at AWCI because there truly is a limitless amount of knowledge to be found within the walls of AWCI. ~Sarkis Semerdjian ” TIME IS MONEY Increase the quality and quantity of your work and become more profitable with classes from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. We offer refresher and advanced courses designed to help you sharpen your skill set and stay current with the latest service techniques.

ARE YOU CERTIFIED? Invest in yourself by taking your skills to the next level, and becoming a Certified Watchmaker of the 21st Century (CW21). Becoming certified demonstrates your high level of expertise to your customers, elevates your store above the competition, and enhances the brands you carry. Start the process today by registering for our 21st Century Standards Course. Not sure which course to sign up for? Log onto our website and fill out our experience questionnaire or contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests.

Call or email our Education & Certification Coordinator today for more information: [email protected] or call 1-866-367-2924, ext 303 CENTER STAGE Jason Champion, CW21, and Jason Ziegenbein, CW21: Oklahoma State University of Technology 2018: Interviews with speakers, educators, and vendors

By Donna Hardy

working as a retail watchmaker in Houston, Texas, and Tulsa, Oklahoma. In the interview below, Jason Champion answers questions about the class and about using CAD, CAM, CNC, and 3-D printing in general.

Jason Champion Jason Ziegenbein & ason Champion and Jason Ziegenbein will Q A teach a class called Hands-On with CAD Will both watchmakers and clockmakers at this year’s convention. They will use the get something from this class? program Fusion 360 from Autodesk. In the I feel this course will give both watchmakers and class, students will create a 3-D model of clockmakers an opportunity to learn the basics of Ja watchmaking tool; create dimensioned tech- drawing an item in a CAD program. Any quality part nical drawings for the watchmaking tool; and con- or tool for watchmaking or clockmaking should start vert the model with CAM for output to CNC or 3-D with a drawing to aid in manufacturing. printing. Jason Champion says, “We will be teach- Having a CAD drawing will provide the watching foundation CAD drawing. We anticipate having maker or clockmaker three benefits. The first benefit some participants who are very knowledgeable on is being able to see the part in an electronic manufac- CAD and others who are new to this platform. We turing perspective prior to physically manufacturing want to be able to help both groups of students.” the part. Through the drawing process, you are able Jason Champion is the program chair for the to review and vet the manufacturing process, regard- School of Watchmaking at Oklahoma State University less if you are doing a traditional or a computer-aided of Technology (OSUIT). He is a WOSTEP-certified manufacturing process. The second benefit is through watchmaker who has worked for Richemont North the clarity and detail you are able to accomplish with America in New York City and operated a private this drawing media. The third is a benefit for man- watch-repair business in Tennessee. ufacturing. If the part is to be constructed through Jason Ziegenbein, a WOSTEP-certified watch- CNC or to be 3-D printed, Fusion 360 allows you maker, has taught some of the best and brightest at to go straight to CAM (computer-aided manufactur- OSUIT’s School of Watchmaking over the last 10 ing). Since this benefit is built into Fusion 360, it’s not years. Other watchmaking experiences include own- necessary to have a CAD program and also a CAM ing and operating a private watch-repair business and program.

Horological Times 9 Convention News: Center Stage

Image of completed balance wheel 3-D printed to use as a model in class.

Balance wheel model being modified in Fusion 360.

Some might be concerned about the How can a regular watchmaker who price of the software, Fusion 360 ($40/ makes most of his or her living doing re- monthly or $310/year according to Au- pairs use CNC and 3-D printing? What todesk’s website), and its learning curve. are the applications in the ordinary Is it worth it to invest in software and workshop (as opposed to the haute hor- take the time to learn how to use it? logerie of custom, handmade watches)? I would say that the cost to use any equipment or I see CNC and 3-D printing used more for tool man- software is based on how much that program will be ufacture. I would also say that it is likely more appli- used and to what extent that program will be used. cable to clock parts than to watch parts. Unless you Fusion 360 is available as a free download for 30 are specialized in manufacturing, then the cost of the days. Students, educators, and academic institutions program may not be justified. CNC tooling is a sub- can apply for a free three-year license. stantial investment. 3-D printing is a bit of a different If you are only doing drawings to make your story. Many individuals are now using 3-D printing parts traditionally using manual manufacturing for tooling, hobby applications, and modeling. We techniques, then Fusion 360 may not be the program have made a few models for the classroom through for you. However, the CAD drawing instruction 3-D printing. portion of the course we’ll present at the convention will still benefit you, since the drawing process is Is there open-source software that can very similar between many types of CAD software. be used instead? If you are manufacturing through CAM, then I am sure that there is or will be similar programs. Fusion 360 is less expensive than many production The benefit is industry acceptance of the Autodesk programs on the market. And to be able to transi- product and the versatility of the output of the CAM. tion between modeling and manufacturing easily is a valuable perk. Are CAD, CNC, and 3-D printing more I feel that Fusion 360 is a good value for the suited for production rather than one-off power the program offers, especially if you use the fabrication as a bench mechanic would CAM side of the program. If you are only making typically encounter? CAD drawings, then another, less expensive pro- Yes, I would say that CAD, CNC, and 3-D printing gram may fit your needs. However, if you consider are more suited for production. However, I do feel the CAD and CAM software and the versatility of that the ability to vet through a CAD drawing and the program, there is great value. check tolerances and dimensions between surfaces or between components is a powerful benefit to drawing with CAD. You can make or view the part in a one- to-one scale or easily zoom in and view the part in greater detail.

10 October 2018 The overview of the class talks about tool manufacture. What types of tooling would be made with these machines to justify How to Prepare their expense over purchasing tools from Bergeon or Beco Technic, for instance? for This Class Are there already macro applications for manufacturing watch movement parts to To download your free trial of Fusion tight tolerances? 360 and to get additional informa- Depending on the flow of the class, the idea is to make tion on system requirements, go to two drawings of tools to teach CAD drawing. One https://www.autodesk.com/products will be a plexi stick and the other will be a barrel closer. /fusion-360/free-trial. Neither of these will justify the expense. However, being able to manufacture tools to dimensions you Can you work with machine shops to pro- choose is valuable to watchmakers or clockmakers. duce tools and parts designed in Fusion 360? What are the benefits to using CAD Yes. Fusion 360, like almost any other program, will when fabricating replacement parts? allow you, with knowledge of the tooling that will be When making tools? used to produce the part, to work with outside enti- When fabricating parts, the vetting process and abil- ties to manufacture your part. The clarity of CAD is ity to break down the manufacturing process is the a major benefit when making a technical part. When major benefit to using CAD. The clarity through making a drawing, a question you should ask yourself zooming in and out on the part generates clarity and is: If this drawing were outsourced, is all the informa- precision and ultimately could save time by eliminat- tion there to successfully manufacture the part or tool ing the need to remanufacture parts due to an over- from this drawing? If more communication is need- sight or design error. I feel from a micromechanics ed, then the drawing may not be complete. standpoint, making a tool and a part are very similar. Both need to hold precision through their construc- What kind of parts or tools do you recom- tion, but, also, they both will work together with oth- mend fabricating with 3-D printing? CNC er parts or systems. Therefore, clarity and precision in mill? CNC lathe? Wire EDM? their construction cannot be overlooked. Each of these processes has benefits and drawbacks. 3-D printing is fairly quick and easy to accomplish Rendered image of balance wheel and very beneficial to vet a process. It does, however, showing threading through center that still lack an application in metallurgy, although good is to be printed or machined. strides are being made. CNC lathes and mills involve a sizeable investment to achieve the accuracy we need in watchmaking. They are suited more for high-volume production. EDM is even more specialized and an even greater investment.

Do you recommend any particular machines for this type of CNC machining? No. However, we have access to a HAAS office mill that we like. It has a fairly small footprint, high spindle speed, and is an accurate machine. Many hobby mills are available and, with enough modifications and time spent, you can get good results using them. Howev- er, as watchmakers, we have a level of precision most others in manufacturing often do not achieve. So, any communication with CNC machines or machinists should include the tolerances you want to achieve.

Horological Times 11 OSUIT student Tessa Gilmore working in Fusion 360. Tessa is part of OSUIT’s graduating class of fall 2018.

What are some of the common problems Since it appears that more and more you’ve seen students encounter when watchmakers and clockmakers will have learning to use the software and create to make their own parts in the future, 3-D models and dimensioned technical could this be a new startup business for drawings? some—making parts for the industry us- Knowing what characteristics to include in the drawing CAD/CAM and related CNC machines? ing and also what tolerances are critical are two of I think if watchmakers and clockmakers are able to the more difficult challenges we all face when com- use CAD to produce a drawing regardless if they are pleting a technical drawing. Once you know what to going to manufacture the part, outsource a part to be include and exclude from the drawing, then CAD or manufactured, or simply being able to identify a good 3-D modeling is a matter of knowing how to most part from a bad part. The better we are able to com- efficiently make the outlines and surfaces you wish municate visually, the better we will be at procuring, to make. modifying, or manufacturing a part. I think being able to use CAD to produce a drawing is valuable to watchmakers and clockmakers whether they manufacture the part, outsource a part to be manufactured, or they just want to be able to identify a good part from a bad part. The better we are able to communicate visually, the better we will be at procuring, modifying, or manufacturing a part.

Donna Hardy is the managing editor of the Horological Times.

12 October 2018 Get a $1,000 Credit Toward Your First Class at AWCI!*

If you have never taken a class at AWCI but have dreamed of the opportunity, now is the time!

*AWCI will verify you have not taken a class at headquarters. Registration is on a first come, first served basis. Registration is not confirmed until 30 days before the class, and priority is given to customers not using a discount. Must be a current AWCI member as of March 9, 2018 and at time of registration. Limit of 400 discounts available.

For additional details and to register, contact Rob McLeod, Education & Certification Coordinator 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) x303. Visit us at www.awci.com/calendar. Technical Discussion: Restoration & Construction Techniques-A Hands-On Class with Henrik Korpela

Restoration & Construction Techniques A Hands-On Class with Henrik Korpela

By Donna Hardy

his five-day class showed Fig. 1 Twatchmakers how they can connect to the artistic side of watchmaking. Each watchmaker in the class got to perform several high-end finishing techniques such as frosting, rhodium plating, bluing, and black polishing. The classroom was set up in various stations or work areas where students could perform each task in the finishing process. Assembling and Disassembling the Movement AWCI’s classroom was well-organized and set up in various stations so students could work independently First, students received com- on each stage of the finishing process at their own pace. Instructors Henrik Korpela and Tom Schomaker pletely disassembled ETA 6497-1 were available at all times to answer any questions or demonstrate how to perform a technique. movements in kit form. They then cleaned the parts so they could inspect them for damage. Fig. 2 Each student had to ensure his watch ran properly. Everything that could be disassembled was― including the jewels. The watch was then reassembled with all the necessary adjustments to divisions and endshakes, and the positions of the jewels were then noted for easier reassem- bly later. Then, the movement was disassembled again to start the finishing processes. Students pushed jewels out of the bridges, barrel, train, and balance bridges in order to finish the parts.

After the watchwas reassembled and running, the jewel positions were measured and memorized so finishing could begin. Here, student Doug Ottaway is assembling the finished balance bridge (cock), using the Horia jeweling tool.

14 October 2018 Frosting Fig. 3 Frosting is a finish that leaves the surface with a pebbled or mottled appearance that is more matte than shiny. Figure 3 shows a mixture of corundum powder and water placed on top of a mirror that is set in a tray. The purpose of the tray is to prevent the powder from spread- ing everywhere. Student Peter Toot is frosting a bridge by moving the bridge in circles on top of the powder, creating a coarse-looking finish on the bridge. Figure 4 shows the final step in the frosting procedure, which is to make the coarse finish Creating a coarse-looking finish on the bridge by rubbing it in corundum powder. brighter while retaining its coarse structure. The same technique of Fig. 4 moving the bridge in circles is used, but in this step, it’s done on a flat brass support with very fine glass-bead powder mixed with water to soften the finish. This frosted finish replicates some finishes used by many high-end brands in the past, and even today it is used on very expensive watches.

Rhodium Plating Rhodium is a hard, silvery-white metal that resists corrosion. Elec- troplating is a process that uses an Rubbing the bridge in very fine glass-bead powder to soften the finish after rubbing in corundum electric current to reduce dissolved powder. metal cations so that they form a thin coherent metal coating on Fig. 5 an electrode.¹ Figure 5 shows the degreasing process before rhodium plating is begun. The piece is immersed in a degreasing solution while a low-voltage electrical current runs through the solution. The piece must stay in the solution a certain amount of time, according to the recommendations of the solution manufacturer.

The degreasing process begins. Student Dean Sarnelle puts a train wheel bridge in the Krohn Heavy Duty Electrocleaner to begin the cleaning process before electroplating. 1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroplating

Horological Times 15 Technical Discussion: Restoration & Construction Techniques-A Hands-On Class with Henrik Korpela

Fig. 6 Fig. 9

The degreasing process in action.

Fig. 7

This photo shows the results of rhodium plating. Before and after plating: The silver-colored pieces on the left are after rhodium plating. The brass-colored pieces on the right are before rhodium plating.

Screw Polishing After rhodium plating, screws were round polished. In Figure 10, student Jonathan Morales is round polishing a screw by holding it with a lantern chuck in his right hand and moving it in circles across abra- Dean rinses the piece in tap water to remove the degreasing solution. sive papers attached to soft foam. First a coarse pa- The piece gets cleaner each time it’s immersed in fresh water— per was used, and then Jonathan progressed to using therefore, there are three water containers for rinsing (red cups). finer papers.

Fig. 8 Fig. 10

Finally, the piece is placed in the beaker containing the rhodium- plating solution, Super Brite Rhodium Bath Concentrate. Through this electroplating process, a very thin layer of rhodium is deposited on the surface of the bridge, which will protect the bridge from oxidizing and Round polishing the screw. give it a silvery appearance.

16 October 2018 Bluing Screws Blue is not the only color that can be obtained by First, the bluing pan that holds the screws is brought the bluing process. Jonathan Morales obtained an in- to temperature over a flame, Figure 11. The exact teresting burgundy hue during his bluing process and temperature depends on the composition of the steel, decided to keep it, Figure 14. but it is in the range of 554-590° F. Then, the screws are inserted in the bluing pan. If the bluing pan is al- Using the Lathe to Create ready hot when the screw is placed in the pan, it may only take a few seconds to reach the desirable blue. If a Shiny Bevel the pan has to be heated from room temperature, it “People like shiny,” says Tom Schomaker. And when can take some minutes for the screw to blue. Figure you put shiny and matte finishes next to each other 12 shows student Dean Sarnelle bluing a screw, and on a watch, it gives the watch that extra visual punch. Figure 13 shows the result. Since the screw was ini- After the students had blued the screws, they moved tially heat treated at the manufacturer, the bluing is on to the process of polishing bevels. Henrik Korpela for aesthetical reasons only and not a way of chang- says, “Polishing the bevels creates a beautiful contrast ing the character of the steel as is done when temper- to the top surface of the bridge, which is normally ing, which may also blue the surface of the steel. a different finish such as frosting, Geneva stripes,

Fig. 11 Fig. 13

Bringing the bluing pan to the proper temperature to start bluing the screws. A blued screw.

Fig. 12 Fig. 14

Bluing the screw over the flame. Screws “blued” to a burgundy color.

Horological Times 17 Technical Discussion: Restoration & Construction Techniques-A Hands-On Class with Henrik Korpela

or straight graining, among many other types of Fig. 17 finishes.” Korpela further explains that a sharp edge looks a bit basic—not that there is anything wrong with that, as certain watches do not have bevels on bridges. It’s a question of personal preference. Students made a bevel on the teeth of the ratchet and crown wheels, using the lathe. Figure 16 shows Peter Toot applying glue to a brass support that will carry the ratchet or crown wheel during the finishing procedure. After Peter applied the glue to the support, the ratchet wheel was placed on the support in the glue and centered with the tailstock, Figure 17. Then, Peter ground a bevel on the teeth with the help of a flat diamond file, Figure 18. The same process was used for the crown wheel. Placing the wheel on the support in the glue and centering with the Fig. 15 tailstock.

Fig. 18

Filing bevels on a bridge.

Fig. 16 Grinding a bevel on the teeth.

The Finished Product How a watch can look after all of these techniques have been applied by a skilled and experienced watchmaker is shown in Figure 19, the watch that instructor Henrik Korpela restored. Students in the class will continue to practice these techniques and work toward mastery so they might offer some of their own clients these timeless finishes.

Applying glue to a brass support that will carry the ratchet and crown wheels.

18 October 2018 Fig. 19. Examples of finishes. 1 Polished jewel and screw sinks.

Surface of bridges with frosted finish and rhodium plating. 2 Polished bevels on bridges Ratchet and crown wheel with matte finish. 7 3

Polished bevels on ratchet 4 and crown wheels. 5 Round-polished and blued screws

6 Straight-grained click

Fig. 20

Jalil Kizy Jonathan Morales James Huff Daniele Del Vecchio Peter Whittle Adam Parrish

Jacob Curtis Tom Henrik Schomaker Peter Toot Kelly Korpela Hunter Dean Doug Gerald Sarnelle Ottaway Sussman Briana Le

The class participants in "Restoration & Construction Techniques." These watchmakers spent five days reconnecting to the roots of watchmaking by learning, hands-on, these restoration finishing techniques.

Donna Hardy is the managing editor of the Horological Times.

Horological Times 19 Technical Discussion: Shop Tip—Seth Thomas No. 124 Mainspring-Winding Arbor

Shop Tip: Seth Thomas No. 124 Mainspring-Winding Arbor

By Bob Little, CC, CW

recently received a Seth Thomas tambour clock This movement has a removable lower half-plate, Iin my shop with a broken strike train main- and the mainspring barrels are secured to the plate, spring. This particular clock uses a No. 124 West- Figure 2. Mainsprings can be changed by removing minster chime and strike movement, Figure 1. the lower plate from the movement and do not Because of the way that the arbor plate holes were require complete movement disassembly. I use an previously closed, I removed all three springs and Ollie Baker-style mainspring-winding tool shown in installed bushings in the plate. I wanted to prop- Figure 3, which utilizes different sizes of let-down erly repair the way the holes had been previous- keys. It is necessary to put the key end of the barrel ly “tightened” and to correct the excessive arbor arbor in the proper key size winding arbor for spring sideshake. removal. The spring is wound on the Ollie Baker- style mainspring winder and a sleeve is slipped in Fig. 1 place to capture the spring. On this clock, the key end of the winding arbor is facing away from the open end of the barrel and the gear blocks sleeve insertion. As shown in Figure 3, standard let-down keys have a 7/16'' hexagonal middle section that slips in the socket on the winding arbor. They can also be inserted in the plastic handle, also shown in Figure 3, and used to let down the wound mainspring before removing it from the clock. To easily remove the mainspring, the clock’s winding arbor assembly is removed. I use a special winding tool I made from 7/16" 12L14 hexagon steel. I obtained this stock from Speedy Metals (www.speedymetals.com). I cut a piece of this stock 100mm long, machined a 4.0mm

Fig. 3

Fig. 2

20 October 2018 diameter pilot 20mm long, and rounded the end. I Fig. 6 then machined the mainspring-winding section on the hex stock 5.3mm in diameter and 21.5mm long. The remaining portion of the hex stock is left unma- chined, except for chamfering the edges and finishing the end. I completed the let-down key by drilling a 2.0mm hole at the midpoint of the 5.3mm diameter winding arbor section and pressed in a piece of 2.0mm drill rod stock Fig. 4 that is 7.0mm long. The mainsprings wind clock- wise when viewing from the open end of the barrel. I ground a slight notch in the right side of the 2.0mm drill rod spring catch (the side facing up in Figure 4), and I tapered Fig. 7 the back side down to allow for easy mainspring removal from the arbor. To remove a mainspring, I first insert the let-down key into the mainspring, Figure 5. I then put this in the mainspring-winding tool with the properly sized mainspring retainer sleeve on the winding arm, and I move the tailstock up to retain the tool pilot end, Figure 6. I then wind the mainspring, install the sleeve to contain the spring, and remove the barrel assembly. Finally, I attach the end with the mainspring-retaining hook and remove the mainspring from the sleeve, Figure 7.

Fig. 5

I have also made an identical let-down key with a left-facing hook for removing mainsprings in similar barrel setups that use counterclockwise winding springs. I’ve found that my winding tool makes mainspring removal and insertion quick and easy. I hope you will too.

Bob Little is a certified watchmaker and clockmaker who owns and operates a watch, clock, and jewelry repair shop in Logan, Ohio.

Horological Times 21 Best Horological Education in the Industry!

Chronometer Club Seminar: Gear Train Design & Layout— Hairspring Corrections & Austin, Texas David Lindow Manipulations— October 8-10, 2018 (3 CEUs) Tom Schomaker, CMW21 October 11-13, 2018 October 10, 2018 (1 CEU) American Watchmakers–Clockmakers Institute Creating Jigs & Fixtures for the Lathe— Success in the Marketplace— Jerry Faier, CMC21, FAWCI Michael Gainey, CC21 October 13, 2018 (1/2 CEU) October 12, 2018 (1/2 CEU) Hands-On with CAD— Jason Champion, CW21 & Modular Chronograph Repair H Jason Ziegenbein, CW21 Issues—Robert Flood, CW21 O G R IN October 13, 2018 (1/2 CEU) October 12, 2018 (1/2 CEU) OL ER OGICAL GATH Tools and Techniques to Up Your Thursday evening demonstrations: Watchmaking Game— Rose Engine Turning with David Lindow Battery Technology with Henry Kessler Tom Schomaker, CMW21 Advances in Timing Machines with Witschi Generations with Jason Champion October 13, 2018 (1/2 CEU)

Keynote Speaker Ian Schon of Schon Horology www.awci.com/timecon Collectors and Watchmakers Unite Under RedBar Group

In Birmingham, Alabama, Redbar Birmingham members meet in a restaurant where the natural light is ideal for wrist shots. By Ken Nichols he faithful members of RedBar Group traveled staff, and a nonprofit arm that supports charities at to Las Vegas in June to hear from their founder, local chapters. There are 55 chapters worldwide. They AdamT Craniotes, see watches, and compare member- are predominantly in the US but stretch into the UK, ship notes at the inaugural gathering. The members Canada, France, and Switzerland. These chapters rep- of RedBar are watch enthusiasts and collectors who resent thousands of followers on the social media plat- regularly meet to discuss watches and the industry form Instagram. around it. This watch-fan phenomenon started with “I saw people respond two ways when they saw a a casual meeting after work and has approximately 50 watch I was wearing,” Craniotes said. “They either groups around the world. thought I was an idiot for spending too much money “This industry takes itself too seriously,” Craniotes on a watch because their $40 watch kept the same said. “I believe if you’re not having fun with watch- time, or they thought I was a jerk for flaunting a es, you’re doing it wrong.” The RedBar founder and watch that I paid too much for.” watch apologist in New York City never takes himself “I wanted to be around people who got it,” he said. too seriously even though the group has gotten the “People who talked differently about watches.” Red- attention of watch brands. Bar members are those watch These self-declared watch geeks meet in informal, collectors and enthusiasts who “I believe show-and-tell gatherings. The meetings have been as just get it, according to Crani- small as two people to as large as the national meet-up otes. The people—who just get if you’re in Las Vegas where approximately 30 showed up. The it—have different approaches concept isn’t much different than any club, except this to their get-togethers. not having group is held together by a philosophical and passion- The New York chapter, or fun with ate view of watches. mothership as Craniotes calls Craniotes started the gatherings in New York City it, has an Instagram reputation watches, by happenstance a decade ago. The group’s name came for partying, so the national from where they met. The RedBar Café was halfway meet up in Las Vegas included you’re doing between Craniotes’s job and his friend’s job. They de- a Bloody Mary session while cided to meet after work, and each week they’d invite their weekly meetings often it wrong.” more people. Eventually people were asking Crani- end with a “closing ceremony” ~Adam Craniotes, otes if he was doing “RedBar” this week. photograph of the wrists with founder of RedBar Group RedBar Group is now incorporated with an office, shots of tequila, or the like.

Horological Times 23 Feature: Collectors and Watchmakers Unite under RedBar Group

Watch brands In Atlanta, their group’s personal connections.” If work ever comes out of organizer, Alex Medeiros, de- this, it’s based on this passion, Recksiek indicat- have taken scribed the group as having ed. “These people are the type who would be long- an average age of 34 but pref- term clients every watchmaker would wish for.” notice and aced it by describing the group Kelly Hunter, CW21, started Portland, Oregon's some of the differently than the group in group. “I started this group for the social comrad- New York. “RedBar Atlanta ery,” Hunter said. “Before I became a watchmaker, I groups’ events is not about people who want was a collector and enthusiast. I work by myself and have been to drink,” Medeiros said. “We this is a great way to meet others in a safe and con- don’t close our meetings with trolled environment,” Hunter said. hosted by shots. I’ve got to drive home Instagram seems to be the social glue that holds to- brands. and can’t take a subway.” gether the loosely affiliated chapters where members Salt Lake City’s group is are known more by Instagram usernames. There’s similar. “We usually eat din- “Kidwizzle” in Cincinnati’s group and “Chro- ner on a weeknight since weekends are harder with nogrant” in the St. Louis chapter. families,” said Aaron Recksiek, CW21. Recksiek is It takes more than a username to get invited to that group’s founder and the vice president of AWCI’s most RedBar groups, however. The group is found- Board of Directors. ed on a certain amount of security that is maintained “In our group, the regular people who meet are by each chapter. This protocol is set up to protect watchmakers,” Recksiek said. “It’s not about the members who might bring valuable watches to the flashy young guys with something to prove. It’s re- meetings. ally people who are passionate about watches.” For Atlanta, the typical meeting date is shared a Recksiek also said, “We can all benefit from these month in advance and then those who RSVP are

VJ Geronimo, Oris Watches USA CEO North America, attended the RedBar Birmingham event to show off the new releases.

24 October 2018 given the location shortly before the event. This simple step is a widely accepted practice to protect How to Get Inv lved in members. New members in Atlanta also go through a short screening process before they ever make it to the email list. This includes a referral from another member and a short meeting with Medeiros, the roup group’s organizer. G The RedBar Atlanta seems typical in size. “We have about 45 members in the area with a core group To find a RedBar group to attend of about 20 who meet each month,” Medeiros said. Get an Instagram account. “It’s really about the passion and we really don’t care how expensive the watch is.” Search RedBar and see what cities come up. But the expensive watches do show up at meetings, and this is part of what drives the RedBar’s protocol. Each RedBar chapter should have an email “We are very laid back about security, since we address in the profile. know everyone who attends,” Recksiek said. “I only give the address where we meet to people we know Use that email to contact the local chapter. who RSVP to attend.” Each chapter may have a specific way to vet members.

Follow their approach, because they all vary.

To Start a RedBar Chapter Contact https://redbargroup.com/contact

RedBar chapters are given some of the guidelines for meeting to keep the causal and relational aspects of the groups in the forefront. “We keep our meetings clear of dealers and those with commercial interests,” Hunter said of his Portland group. “I’m not there as a watchmaker.” At the same time, Recksiek indicated that people don’t show up for meetings because of RedBar. “No one comes because of the name RedBar, but be- “One cause the personal connec- collector tion we have to each other,” Recksiek said. “I could see of vintage RedBar connecting members watches has across the country if we were traveling.” become a With that said, watch brands have taken notice and resource for some of the groups’ events parts.” The authorized Tudor dealer attends RedBar Birmingham meetings and invited have been hosted by brands. members to an event where they were able to see some of the new models, ~Aaron Recksiek, founder of Salt including this Tudor Pelagos LHD. Last year, the watch brand Bremont had an event where Lake City’s RedBar chapter

Horological Times 25 Feature: Collectors and Watchmakers Unite under RedBar Group

Gathering at

Friday, October 12, 6:30 p.m. RedBar, AWCI, and brand owners get together for drinks and talking watches.

the company shipped two vintage cars from the UK to the US. The two brothers and founders of the brand were planning to drive the cars to authorized dealers in the States while linking up to RedBar groups. Along for part of the ride was Craniotes, since the RedBar groups were natural connecting points. The brand Oris also has made a connection to RedBar. Two years ago, members of the Oris team traveled to two chapters in the South and stopped at Birmingham for a night and then drove the two hours east to Atlanta. Typically, chapter members take care of their own food and beverages, but Oris bought the drinks for the attendees in these situations. The original inspiration (left) for the re-released Oris Diver Sixty-Five In Las Vegas this year, Oris hosted a night for all (right) was part of the Redbar event in Birmingham. the RedBar members and announced Diver Sixty- Five RedBar Limited Edition to its members. The red dial on its already popular Diver Sixty-Five was a RedBar members are also drawn to AWCI’s huge hit and was widely shown on social media plat- “Build a Watch” class since it offers the same ed- forms like Instagram. ucational opportunity with a bonus-students walk Despite the obvious commercial interest to brands, away with the watch they have built. chapters protect the casual and friendly approach at At the heart of a typical RedBar event is a group events since relational and commercial interests often of people who bring a few watches to share. They sit intersect. down over dinner or drinks and share their watches. Each chapter does things differently. Some meet Members try them on and inevitably there’s a story for coffee while others have met to swap straps. Watch about where the watch came from or why the watch collectors never seem to be in short supply of straps is important. for their collections, so the Huntsville, Alabama, They also talk “holy grail” watches, or those they chapter had an event where they each brought a strap dream of owning, as well as show off unique collec- to swap between members. tions and speculate how they’ll buy their next one. It’s common that the RedBar relationships spill Craniotes described a standout moment in an ear- over to the authorized dealers in local areas. These ly RedBar when the founder of MB&F showed up retailers also collaborate with brands to host meetings with a few of their watches. “Max Büsser was talking of chapters. This typically takes a lowkey, afterhours to us about what inspired him to make watches and approach to trying on new models in a low-pressure that passion was real,” Craniotes said. “We were sales environment. passing around HM3 and HM6 watches and we all Local chapters have also rallied around educational came out of that meeting energized.” events. In New York, the watch community has been Not all watch budgets and interests are at the involved in the Horological Society of New York $60,000 level like the MB&F watches. “In Salt Lake (HSNY). The HSNY has offered horological classes City we see more vintage watches at our meetings, that progressively take novice students through the and one collector of vintage watches has become a movement mechanics, the gear train, and escapement. resource for parts,” Recksiek said.

26 October 2018 Oris released its RedBar Limited Edition in Las Vegas at the RedBar gathering. It's limited to 100 pieces.

Inevitably these types of connections bring people “RedBar exists because it’s the intersection of together. Craniotes said anyone who wants to start a watchmakers’ blood, sweat, and tears,” Craniotes group should contact him. said. “It’s because of them that we want to keep that flame of watch passion lit.”

Ken Nichols is a writer and photographer living in the South with his wife, three girls, vintage Airstream, and humble watch collection. https://about.me/ken.nichols

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New Website Popular Watch Blog Worn & Wound for Authorized Opens Online Watch Store Watch Dealers The popular value-driven watch blog Wor n & Wound Many luxury watch has expanded its online presence to include an e-com- brands are not sold ©Troverie – Logo courtesy of Troverie merce watch sales platform named the Windup Watch online directly from authorized dealers. A new web- Shop. The name is derived from the semi-annual site, Troverie, is making more of these luxury watch pop-up watch fair hosted by Wor n & Wound around brands available. Troverie launched in early August the country, which brings exposure to many inde- in collaboration with 26 high-end jewelers and the pendent or smaller microbrands. The initial launch brands that are authorizing the sales. The website de- of the site includes watches from 13 brands: Auteur, buted with 16 watch brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Autodromo, AVI-8, Bravur, Brew Watch Co., Dan Breguet, Breitling, Bulgari, Girard-Perregaux, Henry, Junghans, Lundis Bleus, Martenero, Raven, Glashütte, Hamilton, Longines, Movado, NOMOS Stowa, Vero, and Vortic Watch Company. Many of Glashütte, Omega, Raymond Weil, TAG Heuer, Ul- these brands have previously relied primarily on di- ysse Nardin, and Zenith. rect-to-consumer sales through their own websites Troverie does not carry inventory. The purchases or social media channels. The Windup Watch Shop made through the site are forwarded to one of the will also carry Wor n & Wound’s existing line of watch authorized dealers. Customers have the option to accessories, straps, cases, pens, and tools that were choose either to pick up the watch from a local deal- available on its original online sales platform. er or have the watch shipped to them. For shipped Wor n & Wound is capitalizing directly on the watches, the dealer chosen to make the sale will be popularity of the watches featured on its site. This dependent on a customer-satisfaction score over a proves to be a more lucrative venture than the tradi- 90-day rolling average. The watches will be shipped tional model of selling advertisements on the site to in Troverie-specific packaging in addition to the brands wanting to promote their products. Last year, original watch boxes, warranty cards, manuals, etc. Hodinkee made news by becoming an authorized on- Troverie takes a cut from each sale to cover their line dealer for several luxury brands, including Grand portion of finding clients and assuming the risk. Seiko, Longines, NOMOS Glashütte, Oris, Ressence, They also have client-specific perks like VIP events Seiko, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin, Zenith, and complementary watch refinishing. and Hamilton. The “click-and-brick” sales model is meant to ad- It’s expected that this will be a growing trend in the dress the current watch sales market that many indus- online watch culture. Many brands look for outlets to try experts have declared to be broken. So far, luxury offer their products online because conventional on- watch brands have been very reluctant to offer their line advertising has become less effective over time. products through e-commerce sale platforms. This windupwatchshop.com new site represents an innovative solution to many wornandwound.com of their online-sales complaints, including quality control, pricing, and brand-image management. For brands that have been looking for a way to venture into online sales, Troverie is a reasonable first step. While utilizing existing dealer network to fulfill the sales, brands can monitor how product is present- ed and sold through a single website. In addition, a brand’s availability of product is expanded to a new and in-demand marketplace. troverie.com

www.forbes.com/sites/veenamccoole/2018/08/07/can-troverie-change-the-face-of-luxury-watch © Windup Watch Shop – Photo courtesy of Worn & Wound -shopping/#53c3c82048b9

28 October 2018 Movado Acquires Entry-Level Watch The purchase is expected to accelerate MVMT’s Brand MVMT expansion into new markets and sales distribution, The Movado Group has agreed to terms to acquire utilizing Movado Group’s global infrastructure. The the millennial-centric watch and accessories brand addition of MVMT’s digital marketing and social-me- MVMT (Movement). The purchase price will con- dia teams will expand Movado Group’s presence into sist of one $100 million payment now and two future those areas while also reaching a younger group of payments based on the brand’s financial performance consumers. before the buyout is completed, possibly totaling an- For now, the companies are expected to maintain other $100 million. separate operations and MVMT’s 40 employees will MVMT was started five years ago with $219,898 in remain at their Los Angeles headquarters, along with pre-order funding through the crowdfunding website, Kassan and LaPlante as CEO and COO respectively. Indiegogo.com. Since then, MVMT has sold more www.forbes.com/sites/robertanaas/2018/08/16/movado-group-to-acquire-mvmt-lifestyle than 1.5 million watches and added other products -watch-and-accessories-brand/#44e1bad36a8c like sunglasses and straps. In 2017, reported sales were www.mvmtwatches.com around $71 million. The brand was founded by two entrepreneurs in their early 20s, Jacob Kassan and Kramer LaPlante, with a mission “to disrupt the over- priced and outdated models of the fashion industry.” The brand has primarily been a direct-to-consumer distribution model and is highly dependent on social media for advertising and product promotion. MVMT has recently expanded to being sold in department stores such as Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. © MVMT – Photo courtesy of MVMT

Update: WEKO Chooses Not to Open In- Horological Society of New York Opens vestigation into Swiss Watch Brands Offices and Goes International Last October’s Horological Times reported that the in- By Brock McKee dependent Swiss competition commission (WEKO) It was announced on August 13 that the Horological was considering opening an investigation into many of Society of New York (HSNY), now in its 152nd year, the Swiss watch brands, including the Swatch Group, opened its first permanent office and classroom. LVMH, and the Richemont Group. WEKO was inves- HSNY’s new residence, located at 20 West 44th street, tigating complaints received “from independent watch is in a part of Midtown Manhattan known as Club Row. repairers who no longer had access to parts, but also The HSNY, which gives horological education from customers who were unhappy they could not get classes in New York City and nationwide, will be their watch repaired wherever they wanted.” using its new classroom equipped with six watch- At the end of August, after asking for public com- maker’s benches for their classes every Tuesday and ment and reviewing the complaints, WEKO announced Thursday. All of HSNY’s classes are taught by their that they will not be opening a formal investigation of staff of professional watchmakers, including their the watch companies. A separate European Union in- first international classes held in Toronto, Ontario, vestigation was cited, which found no abuse of market Canada, on July 7 and 8. dominance in their after-sales service agreements. In a In addition to holding classes, the new head- statement WEKO said: “No elements could be identi- quarters will also house the offices for HSNY’s fied that would point to a conclusion that would differ growing staff, as well as their extensive library. The from the one arrived at by the EU.” Horological Society of New York holds monthly uk.reuters.com/article/us-swatch-investigation/swiss-cartel meetings that are open to the public at New York’s -watchdog-declines-to-probe-watchmakers-over-spare General Society Library. -parts-idUKKCN1LD0HE www.hodinkee.com/articles/hsny-opens-its-first-office-and-classroom www.hodinkee.com/articles/hsny-weekend-classes-toronto-july-2018 © Swiss Federal Authorities – Logo courtesy of WEKO hs-ny.org/meetings

Aaron H. Recksiek is an independent watchmaker in Salt Lake City, Utah. He is a Brock McKee is a SAWTA-certified watchmaker. He is the watchmaker at William’s graduate of the 2008 WOSTEP class at the Lititz Watch Technicum. Jewelers in Englewood, Colorado.

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The Modern Watchmakers Lathe And How to Use It By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FAWI, FNAWCC, FBHI AWCI members pay only $89.99 (plus shipping & handling)

Any course in watchmaking, clockmaking, and repairing would not be complete without adequate instruction and practice in using the watchmaker’s lathe as well as instruction and practice in using saws and files. When restoring antique watches and clocks, the restorer must be skilled in the use of the lathe, saws, and files to make and alter parts to fit the mechanisms. This book will teach you these skills! With more than 400 pages and 548 illustrations, it is a powerhouse of information and instruction by one of the most extraordinarily talented teachers and authors, Archie B. Perkins. Each chapter includes a sum- mary, questions about material in the chapter, and a reference guide for further reading. Get your copy today! Not a member? Join today at www.awci.com/member-center/membership-form

Purchase your book online at www.awci.com/online-store From the Workshop

By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI

Brain Teaser Solution Several respondents mentioned that an Incabloc The August column pictured chronoscope print- shock absorber spring only fastened on one side outs-one labeled “before” and one labeled “after.” would permit the jewels to wander in the setting This repair was for an almost-new Swiss automatic and present a similar set of symptoms. Although in watch. The owner complained of widely erratic time- this particular case, the shock absorber jewels were keeping and occasional stopping. Externally, this not part of the problem. I have to agree with these watch had no visible signs of abuse, wear, or damage. watchmakers that the Incabloc spring could have Internally, the movement, dial, and hands had no dam- been the problem with this watch. My thanks to all aged or worn parts. The balance staff, Incabloc jewels, who took the time to think about the answer and and hairspring were all in excellent condition. All train write to me. and escapement endshakes were OK. Although this watch did not need any replacement parts, the problem Timeless Wisdom could have been solved by replacing one part. I’ve had the good fortune to know many kind and It was gratifying to receive numerous correct or generous people throughout my lifetime who cared nearly correct answers to this brain teaser. These watch- enough to offer some wisdom to me. Although these makers, with laser-beam precision in their responses, people in many cases were old enough to have been immediately narrowed the source of the problem to my parents or even grandparents, their collective the balance and pallet fork. Since the timekeeping was wisdom has often helped me in business and in my excellent in all pendant positions and one dial position, personal life. Please permit me to share some wis- they reasoned that something was amiss with either the dom with you this month. Perhaps you may find it power transfer from the pallet in one position or one of helpful as well. the shock absorbers. While I was in high school I began working in The actual source of the problem was a pallet a gasoline service station for a man named Myer. At arbor position error. The pallet fork was set too that time, Myer was ancient, or so I thought, at age close to the upper pallet arbor pivot, thus raising the 53. I continued working there nights and weekends fork with respect to the lower tip of the roller jewel. until Myer finally retired at age 71. Although I did In the dial-down position, the tip of the roller jewel not recognize it at the time, Myer provided a col- was touching the tip of the guard finger and causing lege-quality business-school education for me, even a significant loss of power in that one position. If though his formal education ended with the 10th you turn the movement dial up, the endshake of grade. Although he was a fantastic salesman, he was the balance―which is larger than that of the pallet also scrupulously honest and a genuine humanitari- arbor―moves the roller finger away from the guard an. Through his example and words, I learned some finger. Hence, there is no further loss of power in the valuable life lessons that include: dial-up position. There were two possible remedies: Customers are your bread and butter. Treat 1. Replace the pallet fork and arbor with the everyone with respect. expectation that the fork will be properly Provide fair value and never deceive anyone. positioned on the new pallet fork, or Do not be afraid to charge for your parts 2. Use the Horia jeweling tool with the pallet and labor, but never charge for something arbor stump and pusher to move the pallet you did not do. fork 0.03-0.04mm lower on the pallet arbor.

Horological Times 31 Column: From the Workshop

Always pay your help and vendors before some of his product in the store. Because of his you pay yourself. Better to miss a meal or persistence, we gave in and gave him a minimal or- two than not pay your obligations. der. Not to be deterred, Charlie returned again and again, each time with a new proposal. Eventually, he Those were his general business precepts. More bought out our entire stock of competitors’ straps specifically, he was never afraid to promote a new and bracelets so that Hadley-Roma became our only product and sell it to as many customers as possi- brand. As we got to know Charlie better, his visits ble. He believed in always selling quality. Customers became mostly social with a small sales component. wanted the best for their cars and were willing to In those days, good sales reps not only knew their pay for it. For example, we kept three grades of auto- product but knew their customers as well. Charlie mobile batteries in stock: good, better, and best. We also had a vast knowledge of the current state of the sold almost none of the good quality, a few of the industry. He could tell you which businesses were better quality, and about 90% of our battery sales doing well and which were having financial issues. were the best-quality battery. That was valuable knowledge for a store owner who He never bargained on price with customers. If a might be doing business with a financially shaky customer claimed that a competitor was performing a company. Charlie had a sixth sense about the people service or selling a product at a lower cost than Myer, he met, and his perceptions of them were uncan- he would cheerfully tell the customer to visit the com- nily accurate. He always said that the majority of petitor. Few customers did so. The customers under- people with business problems were those that ran stood that Myer and his staff had to earn a living, and a business with inadequate resources. Charlie under- that when they had a problem with their automobile, stood clearly that every business endeavor requires Myer and staff were there to be of service. sufficient resources to carry it during the inevitable In the same vein, he often said, “Never swap lean periods. When business is booming, it’s easy money for money.” By that he meant, do not strive to become overconfident and overextend while be- to only break even by selling an item at cost just to lieving the current boom will continue indefinitely. make the sale. Why waste time swapping money? If Charlie’s visits for lunch and gossip are sadly missed your target is to break even, your business will be due to his untimely passing a few years ago. the loser. Profit is not a dirty word. It is the lifeblood By the time we sold our business, the well-in- of a business. Another quote is, “If you have to work formed sales reps who spend decades selling to without getting paid (making a profit on your labor), jewelers and watchmakers had become passé. The you may as well not take on the job and do some- replacements seldom develop the personal rapport thing else you would rather do.” their predecessors had with customers. They merely Finally, he always admonished his staff that, visit the stores, write orders, and often never return “Any job worth doing, is worth doing well,” when- to make a repeat sale. Their job is often being re- ever someone was not doing top-quality work. We placed by store owners making their own orders were getting paid for quality work. No shortcuts. No online without the personal connection that Charlie low-quality work. Do the job right and do it well. and so many others had. Charlie F. was a representative for Hadley-Roma I am certain all of us can look back and remem- when we met in 1995 at the JCK show at the Javits ber the many people who have had a positive influ- Center in New York City. Although I dismissed ence in our lives. We have the opportunity to meet him and his product line by saying we had plenty of them every day. We just need to be willing to listen straps and bracelets in stock and didn’t want more, to them, learn from their experience, and put their he was not discouraged. A month or two later he advice into practice. In the words of Yogi Berra, stopped by our store to ask again if we would put “You can observe a lot by watching.”

Jack Kurdzionak, watchmaker and watch material specialist, owned a Boston-area watch sales and service shop for 40 years. He has a BS (Northeastern University, 1967) and has studied at ETA, WOSTEP, BHI, SGUS, and AWCI, and works for Eckcells Watch Materials.

32 October 2018 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter Highlights Affiliate Chapter Highlights Watchmakers Association of New Jersey Inc. (WANJ) By Dale Sutton

President: Richard Cuny ♦ Vice President: Adolph Stonitsch Treasurer: Dale Sutton ♦ Secretary: Dr. Henry Shotwell

was incorporated in 1939 and had a Meetings are usually on the third Tuesday of each WANJ large membership for many years due month except for January, February, July, and Au- to the proximity of New York City and several gust. We currently have 28 paid members, six life manufacturers’ watch service centers located nearby. members, and one corporate member. Meetings were held in the VFW Hall in Cranford, At recent meetings WANJ has had member pre- New Jersey, until recently when the cost became sentations on “Current Watch-Cleaning Machines,” prohibitive due to the shrinking membership. I overcoiling tools, “Art of Appraising Watches,” and have been a member since 1990 when there were 30 “Illinois Watch History,” an AWCI video on the re- to 40 members attending an average meeting. We pair of the Accutron 214, a video recording of Roger also had a mart as part of the meetings. We’ve had Smith’s presentation at Horological Society of New some of the significant members of the horological York on “Practical Watch Escapement,” a presenta- industry as our members, such as Henry Frystak, tion by Jack Kurdzionak on “Life after ETA,” a pre- Don De Wolfe, John Sokol, Hans Weber, and Joe sentation on “History and Evolution of the Bulova Cerullo, the current AWCI president. Accutron Watch,” and an AWCI lathe course taught Our current membership includes profession- by Keaton Myrick. al watchmakers, hobbyists, and collectors. We The lathe course was a great success. We had now meet at 7:00 p.m. on Tuesday evenings at the 12 participants. We promoted the course to local Cranford Town Library, Cranford, New Jersey. NAWCC chapters and HSNY and gained two new

Keaton Myrick (second from right) standing with members surrounding the WANJ banner. Course participants learning to disassemble and clean a lathe.

Horological Times 33 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter Highlights

members. The course was offered at no charge to six hours and we got an in-depth understanding of WANJ members or $50 to nonmembers. Since the maintenance and then took apart and cleaned our cost was the same, the two people joined rather own lathes. We are considering a follow-up course than just paying for the course. The course was on making something with our lathe.

WANJ members attend the AWCI lathe course taught by Keaton Myrick. WANJ members at a free-to-members course on lathe maintenance sponsored by AWCI.

WANJ Key Alumni

Joe Cerullo, CMW, CMC, is the current president of the Amer- In 2007 Sokol helped in the transfer of the service opera- ican Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. He is a gold-medal tions in New York City to a new, state-of-the-art facility in the graduate and a micro-lathe expert from WOSTEP in Switzer- Dallas-Fort Worth area. At that time, he took on the responsi- land and has 35+ years of experience restoring high-grade bility of managing service of all Richemont brands in the US. complicated watches and has worked with most of the big At the beginning of 2011, Sokol assumed the responsibility Swiss watch manufacturers including Rolex, Audemars Piguet, of managing all Richemont technical facilities, including brand Piaget, Cartier, Corum, Breguet, and Girard-Perregaux. boutiques and repair platforms in the United States and Can- ada. In 2012 he additionally took on the role of serving as the Henry Frystak resided in Linden, New Jersey, and was the director of the North American Institute of Swiss Watchmak- owner of Frystak Watch and Jewelry in Linden for 50 years, ing (NAIOSW). retiring in 2001. Earlier in his career, Frystak worked for Bu- lova Watch Company in Flushing, New York, and taught Ac- Hans Joachim Weber was born in Hanover, Germany, and came cutron repair courses throughout the years. Frystak was past to the US in 1955 where he lived in Wyckoff, Old Bridge, Haw- president of the Watchmakers Association of New Jersey Inc. thorne, and Mahwah. A watchmaker by trade, Weber worked and a member and past director of the American Watchmak- in watch and clock repair for local clock and jewelry stores ers-Clockmakers Institute. He passed away on May 30, 2017. Sears, Cartier, and Tiffany & Co. until he retired in 1998. We- ber was an active member of the Watchmakers Association John Sokol started his career as a watchmaker in 1975, working of New Jersey Inc., serving as an officer, and eventually as for a local jeweler in Staten Island, New York. In 1978 he started its president. He was the oldest living member and fellow of his own business in Staten Island, opening a retail jewelry store the Horological Society of New York where he served as a which he owned and operated until 1994. In 1994 he went to trustee, and he attended the organization's 150th anniversary work for TAG Heuer, which was purchased by LVMH. He served celebration as the only member who was also present at the there as the technical director until 2002. In October 2002, Sokol group's 100th anniversary. Weber was also a member of the moved to Richemont North America in New York City where he American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Hans Weber, assumed the role of director of technical services, being respon- 85, passed peacefully at his home in Mahwah, New Jersey, sible for the after-sales service of many of the Richemont brands, on the morning of January 6, 2018, with his wife and son by including Cartier, Officine Panerai, and Piaget. his side.

Formerly an electrical engineer, Dale Sutton owns Time Machine Repair, which repairs watch and clock timing and cleaning machines. He is treasurer and membership chair of WANJ and president of NAWCC chapter 93 in Cherry Hill, New Jersey.

34 October 2018 Affiliate Chapter NEWS Minnesota Clockmakers Guild (MCG) The September MCG program will be making a one-brick forge for heat-treating shop-made tools at Richard Zielike’s Edina Clock Repair shop. The August program was a tour of the Cowboy Clocks and Caning in Alden, Minnesota. There were many types of clocks to see, ideas for how the owner organizes customers’ clocks in custom-made boxes, and tips for holding movements for assembly and testing. Everyone who attended came away with several ideas they can use for improving processes in Cuckoo clock test stand with plastic buckets below their shop. For Show and Tell, Susan Wood shared to catch weights and stop people from stepping on chains in the Cowboy Clocks and Caning shop. a rose engine turning she made at the NAWCC National Convention. MCG OFFICERS President: Ivy Booth · 612-719-0161 · [email protected] Treasurer: Garth Antila · 715-386-3575 · [email protected] Secretary: Dean Ziegenbein · 952-454-1247 · [email protected]

Susan Wood shared designs she turned with a rose engine.

Editor’s Note: AWCI does not necessarily condone the methods shown in the shop photos. Affiliate chapter members took these photographs to record the interesting things they saw Members looking at clocks for sale in the show- on their field trip. room of Cowboy Clocks and Caning, in Alden, Minnesota. Horological Society of New York (HSNY) The following information was obtained from The Horologist’s Loupe, submitted by Carolina Navarro, Director of Public Relations, HSNY, Copyright©2018. Published by the Horological Society of New York, Inc.; all rights reserved. Mechanical Jewels: The Art of the Watch 1500–1800 Jonathan Snellenburg, Director of Watch and Clock Sales for Bonhams Auctioneers, New York City, gave the HSNY September lecture on early watches and their uses. Early watches were not made to keep time as Members looking at the various types of clocks watches do today. Early watches were actually indif- for sale in the caning shop and showroom part of ferent timekeepers, more suited to symbolize time the building. than reliably measure it. Although technical advances

Horological Times 35 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter News

over the years improved their performance, it was not until the end of the 18th century that ordinary watches became truly reliable timekeepers. The earliest watches were probably carried not so much because civilization required portable timekeepers, but rather because of the Renaissance fashion for pendant jewels that served as both display of wealth and talisman. The early 20th century horologist, G. H. Baillie, referred to this developmental period as the “Age of Decoration.” Watches were of- Gold ten fashioned into diverse forms and decorated with pocket watches scenes from Classical literature. Both the form and with decoration of these watches were intended to convey repoussé a message of how to make the best use of time. design. Using sources from the fine and decorative arts, this lecture considered the imagery of these early jewel-like watches and illustrated how their appearance reflected society’s evolving attitude toward time and timekeeping. Only when the watch was transformed from metaphor into measuring device in the late 18th century did the pocket watch take its familiar modern form.

Copy About Jonathan of Lion Snellenburg Hunt Jonathan Snellenburg stud- painted ied history and geology at in 1621 Dartmouth College and by Peter received a Ph.D. in Geo- Paul chemistry from the State Rubens. University of New York at Stony Brook. This led to a he is also a member of the Antiquarian Horological post-doctoral fellowship at Jonathan Snellenburg Society and the NAWCC. the American Museum of Since 1996 Dr. Snellenburg has appeared as an Natural History in New York City and later, a po- appraiser in the PBS television series The Antiques sition as staff gemologist for the Gemological Insti- Roadshow. He contributed the chapter on 17th and tute of America. He then joined Christie�s in New 18th century enamel watches for the Catalogue of York City as head of the jewelry and silver depart- European Decorative Arts at the Taft Museum, Cin- ments at their gallery, Christie�s East. By the time he cinnati, Ohio, and catalogued the Proctor Collection left Christie�s, as a senior vice president and head of of Watches at the Munson Williams Proctor Art In- the watch and clock department, he had organized stitute, Utica, New York. sales in a variety of fields including watches, clocks, jewelry, silver, and scientific instruments. HSNY OFFICERS For many years, he conducted his own business as dealer, consultant, and appraiser, as well as serving as President: Nicholas Manousos a vice president of the National Antique & Art Deal- Vice President: John Tiefert ers Association of America, Inc. He returned to the Director of Public Relations: Carolina Navarro salesrooms, joining Bonhams in New York City as a Treasurer: Charles S. Salomon director of watches and clocks in 2009. A Freeman of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers in London,

36 October 2018 would you

like to read “Columbia is home to one of the world’s only horology museums” what makes - Smithsonian Magazine The Smithsonian UPCOMING Magazine ranked CLASSES Columbia, PA, among the brits tick? top 20 best small towns to Servicing a Pocket Watch visit in the United States, for the Beginner I The Horological Journal – published monthly in part, because of its November 3-4, 2018 without fail since 1858 – gives you exclusive strength in history. Servicing a Pocket Watch technical articles and practical updates on clock The National Watch for the Beginner II and watch making. & Clock Museum in November 5-7, 2018 Columbia includes 19th-century American Contact the Education Department You’ll find news on the latest issue and at 717.684.8261, ext. 237 clocks and watches and how to get it at www.bhi.co.uk or [email protected]. timekeepers from around Check out www.museumoftime.org the world. for more info.

Do you enjoy spending time with other watchmakers and clockmakers? Join Your Local Affiliate Chapter for more information log on to awci.com/about-us/affiliate-chapters Florida Indiana Minnesota New York Ohio Texas Florida Watch & Clock- Indianapolis Minnesota Clockmakers Horological Society of Watchmakers-Clock- Capital Area Watch & LWT Alumni makers Association, Inc. Horological Association Guild New York makers Association of Clockmakers Guild Association Fabio Rodrigues, CW21 Monique Baez, President Ivy Booth, President Nicholas Manousos, President Ohio Glen Morehead, President Aaron Recksiek, CW21, President President 2064 Alysheba Drive 612-719-0161 New York, NY Lew Fleege, President Jay Holloway, Secretary [email protected] 801-580-7673 (C) 786-344-2840 Indianapolis, IN 46234 [email protected] Orrville, OH Pflugerville, TX [email protected] www.hs-ny.org [email protected] 317-374-3915 Dean Ziegenbein, Secretary 512-294-7371 [email protected] 4651 152nd Court 330-683-2391 [email protected] www.lwtalumni.org Vadim Shersher [email protected] Apple Valley, MN 55124-6801 New York State Watch- www.cawcg.org 952-454-1247 makers Association Mark A. Baker, CMW, CC21 Vice President Treasurer North Miami Beach, FL Massachusetts [email protected] Dale LaDue, CMW21 Virginia International Rep Massachusetts Watch- West Henrietta, NY 15852 ½ St. Rt. 62 Horological Association 305-956-9676 P.O. Box 292 [email protected] makers-Clockmakers Missouri 585-424-1493 of Virginia Association, Inc. Metro St. Louis Watch- Damascus, OH 44619 Billy Best, President Richard LeBeau, CMW21 Christopher Carey makers-Clockmakers 330-537-3939 (W) 3414 Wakefield Ave Newton, MA North Carolina [email protected] Roanoke VA 24018 Treasurer Association North Carolina Watch- Saint Petersburg, FL 617-244-3779 540-797-2357 [email protected] Judit Katona, Secretary makers Association 727-347-3758 [email protected] Pennsylvania [email protected] [email protected] Mack R. Shuping, CW21 Watchmakers Associa- http://havhome.org Minnesota Treasurer tion of Pennsylvania The Chronometer Club Midwest Watchmakers- New Jersey Winston Salem, NC George H. Jones Wisconsin Michael Griner, CW21, President Chris Wiles, CW21 Watchmakers Associa- Wisconsin Horological Education Chairmen Clockmakers Association 336-287-8402 State College, PA Fred Fischer, President tion of New Jersey 336-768-1857 (fax) Society Panama City, FL 239-671-3203 814-238-1668 (B & H) Allan J. Smiles, CMW21, President [email protected] Hugo, MN Richard Cuny, President [email protected] [email protected] 850-866-4303 651-429-3340 Tom’s River, NJ 402 W. Main St Ashland, WI 54806-1510 [email protected] [email protected] 732-818-9460 www.mwca.us [email protected] [email protected] www.wanj.us 715-682-3155 www.thechronometerclub.org

Horological Times 37 AWCI News: Continued from page 5―Vice President’s Message/Executive Director’s Message Vice President’s Message question. If you don’t receive calls from the referral content is always helpful and can instantly improve directory, I highly encourage you to edit your listing the day-to-day operations in my workshop. For on the website and add as much information about example, in August’s issue in “Looking at Options: yourself and your specialties as possible. You can even Business and Workshop Practices Survey,” author include a photo of yourself in your workshop. The Hannah Mancill mentioned the use of “Nail Tees” more information you provide, the more confidence that a watchmaker had suggested in response to a people have trusting you with their heirloom. survey. I went straight to Amazon and ordered a box. Second, the annual convention. The 2012 I’m glad I did! They are very helpful and relatively convention in Denver started my heavy involve- inexpensive compared to the recommended “Swiss” ment with the institute. I don’t know where my pro- alternative. (Thank you, Hannah!) We have an ex- fessional and personal life would be had I stayed tremely talented and professional staff that puts this home. The relationships I developed over those magazine together, as well as fantastic writers. We are three days and the four conventions since then are lucky to have them, and their contributions should be some of the most rewarding I have. It’s extreme- recognized and valued. ly hard to put into words and explain to someone Of course, there are many more reasons to be who is asking me whether the convention is worth a member of AWCI. I could go on for hours and it. You almost need to experience it for yourself. hours. . . . I also totally get where some people are It’s much more than just getting together, hanging coming from when they say they don’t get enough out with friends, and going to a couple of classes. benefit from being a member, depending on their There are so many intangible benefits to coming to working situations. One thing is absolutely true, an annual convention, it would be very difficult for though: We need to perpetuate and promote the art me if I had to miss one. and business of watchmaking, clockmaking, and And, of course, last but not least, this fine publica- general horology. Our future livelihoods depend on tion, the Horological Times. Upon reading Horological new people becoming interested in our professions Times every month, I have a greater appreciation for and wanting to do business with us or join us in our my fellow professionals. The technical and business lifelong pursuits. Show off Your Passion for Executive Director’s Message Horology-and AWCI! I know that all of you adhere to this code. I Wear These with Pride! have met so many of you, and it is obvious to me www.awci.com/online-store that you represent the industry well. We are part Horology T-Shirt SHOP NOW of a very small industry and there is a perception while Cotton/Polyester Blend supplies awci.com that what we do is “a dying art.” My question for Available in S, M, L, XL last! you to ponder, whether you are a lifetime member, $25.00 – members get free shipping a student, a representative of a REC school, or a AWCI Shoulder Bag member of the IAB, is not whether your actions Regular $30 reflect positively on yourself and the industry, but Patches Members $27 Sew on your apron or lab coat The AWCI shoulder rather, “What are you doing to improve the per- $5.00 – Members Only bag is the perfect companion to keep everything organized, ception of you, your business, and the industry as Rocker $2.00 – Certified secured, and readily accessible when away Members Only from the shop. Constructed with 600 denier a whole?” Do you promote and encourage the love polyester fabric for long-term durability, there is a roomy main compartment with pockets of horology? Do you encourage people to pursue and storage slots for electronic devices, pens/ careers in horology? It may not be enough simply pencils, small tools, business cards, and supplies. Handy outside storage pockets can to represent the industry well. We must work to carry larger items. A key clip, durable snap buckles, and a removable shoulder strap elevate and promote the industry. The future of Membership Pin add additional versatility. The AWCI logo is $12.95 embroidered directly onto the main flap, so horology depends upon it. it will remain visible for many, many years without peeling or chipping away. Check out our website for these and other great items! If you need assistance, contact AWCI at 513-367-9800.

38 October 2018 Classified Ads help wanted help wanted for sale MASTER WATCHMAKER Swiss Made Mechanical and Q Movements CAREER OPPORTUNITY +parts (new and older) for sale. R. Heggendorn Miami Beach, Florida GmbH. CH-2540 Grenchen/Switzerland Master watchmaker wanted for the largest [email protected] · 011 41 32 653 18 26 seller of fine pre-owned watches in the world. See www.grayandsons.com for watches we buy, sell, and repair. LOOKING FOR A WATCHMAKER Minimum 10 years experience repairing Join our rapidly growing team in our mission to manufacture watches Business For Sale Patek Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, in the United States and salvage as many antique American pocket Watchmaker of 44 years. Retiring. Piaget. Experience in chronographs, watch movements from the scrapyards as we can! Vortic Watch Big stock of new and pre-owned watches, perpetual calenders, auto movements Company has been building the American Artisan Series (completely watch parts (Rolex, Tag Heuer, Omega, US-made pocket-watch conversions) since 2013 and is in need of more Movado, etc.). Great Location. Lots of walk-ins & lathe work. $82,500/year plus benefits. watchmakers to keep up with immense demand. Positions open include full-time salaried positions in Fort Collins, Colorado, and contract-based and many returning customers. Please fax or e-mail your resume to work nationwide. Applicants should have at least 5 years of experience, Turn key operation. Price $500,000.00. 305-865-9666 • [email protected] have professional degrees and certificates, and have a passion and 502-749-2303 / 502-657-9291 expertise in antique and vintage American pocket watch movements. Email: [email protected] Full-Time Watchmaker R.T. Custer Bob’s Watches Vortic Watch Co. [email protected]www.vorticwatches.com 855-285-7884 Newport Beach, California FOR SALE Bob’s Watches is the largest and most trusted name in Roxor pre-owned Rolex watches online and has been in business Natator 125 since 1999. We are looking to bring on additional Full-Time Watchmaker Wanted New condition! Watchmakers who have a minimum of 5 years experience Royal Jewelers, Andover, MA Manual and certificate repairing/servicing fine Swiss watches such as Rolex, Patek Independent, 70 year old, financially strong retail jeweler included! Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Piaget etc. The ideal candidate wants to bring aboard two additional watchmakers. We $5000 service all watch brands including Richemont/Swatch will have experience repairing date only, chronographs, Group. We prefer CW21-, SAWTA- or WOSTEP-certified, Contact: William Kendrick perpetual calendars, automatic movements, etc. but will consider long-term, broad experience and related 480-946-9661 (b) • 602-639-1923 (c) bobswatches.com · 949-742-4900 coursework. Rolex-certified a plus. Full-time employees Email: [email protected] are eligible for medical and dental insurance, and participation in our 401(K) Plan. Fords Jewelers Please submit your resume to: Looking for a certified watchmaker with CW21 certification. To work in our shop for [email protected] Myford repairing Rolex and other fine watches. Super-7 5 days a week Tues-Sat 9:00 am-5:00 pm Refinisher Bench More than 2 weeks paid vacation included! Crown & Caliber Lathe Contact: Barry Berman We're looking to add a stellar Refinisher to Crown & One of the finest metal lathes available for the serious hobbyist. Email Address: [email protected] Caliber's team of watch service professionals. Once owned by WR (Bill) Smith, a prominent clock movement Our Refinisher will focus on cleaning and polishing designer and manufacturer. timepieces as well as handling other minor adjustments to Photographs, information, and pricing is available at Check out other 434-429-6844 or [email protected] watches in our service shop as needed. Help Wanted ads at For more details go to www.awci.com https://awci-jobs.careerwebsite.com click on http://awci-jobs.careerwebsite.com Job ID: 43223478 Education/Careers—Career Center

Horological Times 39 Classified Ads for sale wanted to buy wanted to buy

FOR SALE! Rolex Dial Wanted WANTED WATCH BOXES Parts, tools, Buying Rolex dials and parts. Buy - Sell - Trade equipment Top premium prices for vintage! We want most major brands. Daytona: up to $20,000 Also buying high-end jewelry brand boxes. and Submariner: up to $5,000 Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 fixtures GMT: up to $4,000 $37K Explorer: up to $2,000 WE BUY WATCHES worth much more! Modern dials Gent’s: $100 - $1,000 Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Complete list Call: 617-742-0221 Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. of inventory available. Email: [email protected] Modern or Vintage. 480-839-7570 Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 Wanted: Chronograph Movements and Parts Paying for Valjoux 69, 72, 88 up to $800.00, Venus 178 $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ $300, Longines 13 ZN, 30 CH $500.00, Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling- Panerai - Our 2016-2017 Catalog Movado 90, 95 $300.00. Also buying high-grade Le Coultre Vacheron - AP - Etc. Clock & Watch Repair Supplies, Books, and Tools movements and parts. Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, is available Online... Dean Sarnelle Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Signs, Free with any order! 25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401 Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, Polish Cloths, or call/write for your 540-885-6064 Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo Items, ANYTHING! copy today... [email protected] Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 $5.00 postpaid ✦ Watch Repair Tools & ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS Supplies services ✦ Clock Repair Tools & Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and Supplies... for American watches. We have helped over 200 SERVICE/SALES OF TIMING AND and European clocks watchmakers in the last 15 years to dispose of ✦ CLEANING MACHINES Horological Repair/ their accumulations. When you’re really ready Reference Books Vibrograf, L&R, and Watchmaster Browse through our to sell, we’re ready to buy! Over 20 years experience inventory and order Phone 229-928-9092 or 727-327-3306. Quick repairs & reasonable prices www.timemachinerepair.com on-line 24-hours a day!... Ask for Jeff or Nancy. Email: [email protected] Dale Sutton 609-374-5880 or www.merritts.com [email protected]

ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE 1860 Weavertown Rd, situations wanted We are Factory Authorized Service for: Douglassville, PA 19518 • Greiner VIBROGRAF 610-689-9541 FAX: 610-689-0567 • TICK-O-PRINT & L&R We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate CLOCKMAKER/TECHNICIAN recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. Like us on Facebook! CC21 Clockmaker is seeking employment in the 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 www.facebook.com/MyAWCI greater Denver, Colorado or Front Range area. Used Equipment Bought & Sold For Information Please email: [email protected] 415-479-8960 Like us on Facebook! for resume and experience info. www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes www.electronicinstrumentservice.com

Follow us on Twitter! DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute WATCHMAKER/TECHNICIAN FINEST QUALITY, 30 years experience quantity works welcome. Follow us on Instagram! Horology School Graduate Specialize on changing dial feet www.instagram.com/americanwatchmakers Please contact John: [email protected] positions to fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE Check out our educational videos! 112 Central Avenue North, Kent, WA 98032 www.youtube.com/awci/videos 253-852-5125

40 October 2018 Classified Ads tradespeople

Watch Parts Fabrication: 2018 CLASSIFIED POLICY I make all types of movement parts: Vintage to modern. MATT HENNING CW, 413-549-1950 AWCI HT classified advertising fees/rates and minimum schedule remain the sameas www.henningwatches.com last year. We request that you put all classified advertising on a credit card. We accept MasterCard, Visa, American Express and Discover. If you require a physical invoice and 30-day terms, your rates will be higher due to the additional costs incurred in labor, supplies MAINSPRINGS and carrying charges. Clock and music box - All sizes. Custom made. Brass gear blanks. Timewise (formerly TANI Engineering) HT Classified Rates for 2018: Ph: 330-947-0047, E-mail: [email protected] For Credit Card Payments… For Paper Invoicing… • $1.10 per word • $1.20 per word and • Classified “Display” ads with art borders: $47.50 • Classified “Display”ads with art/borders: $52.25 DENNIS KAYE Advanced Clock Repair Services per col. inch (2.25" wide) per col inch (2.25" wide) • Blind ads – add’l $15.00 per ad 108 Corgy Drive • Cary, NC 27513 • Blind ads – add’l $16.50 per ad Call 540-SERVICE (737-8423) Now Restoring Painted & Silvered Dials! Minimum Schedule: 3-Month Minimum Porcelain Dial Restoration Watch • Pocket Watch • Clock Advertising studies show it takes over 3 viewings for readers to recognize specifics in your ad. Platform Escapement Repair Atmos Parts & Service Deadline: 30 days before the first of the month in which you plan to run your ad. Kundo / ATO Coil Repair If you place a recruitment ad on the www.awci.com Career Center as a combo online/HT ad, there’s no Large Stock of Electric Motors Note: All Types Clocks Serviced need to resend the ad to us. The website system is automatic. Prompt Reliable Service . . . Guaranteed™ Large Supply of Watch Movements & To Place Your Ad: Parts for LeCoultre, Wittnauer & Longines Email: [email protected] Fax: 513-367-1414 or Call or Visit at dialrepair.com Call: 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) • 513-367-9800 FENDLEY & COX WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 RICHARD COX, 972-986-7698/CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI www.fendley-cox.com

Horological Times Advertising Policy & Editorial Policy Advertising Policy for the Horological Times The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the publisher’s standards. The publisher may, at the publisher’s sole discretion and for any reason and without notice, decline to publish or republish any ad, in which case any fees submitted or paid for such ads shall be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. The advertiser and/or agency agree to assume liability for all content of advertisements printed. The advertiser will also accept responsibility for any claims or suits arising therefrom brought against the publisher. Printed articles may also be used by the publisher without permission expressly sought, or payment made, on www.awci.com, the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Facebook page, or via other media. Editorial material and letters of opinion are invited, but reflect the opinions of the authors only and do not represent the views of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), its directors, officers or employees. AWCI reserves the right to edit all submitted materials and is under no obligation to accept any submitted materials for publication. The approval procedures are available from AWCI and at www.awci.com. The appearance, reference, or advertisement of any product or service in this publication shall not be deemed an endorsement of such products, methods or services by AWCI, its directors, officers, or employees.

Publisher’s Standards AWCI makes a concerted effort not to publish any advertisement which promotes or depicts practices not in harmony with our professional Standards & Practices for Watchmakers & Clockmakers. The advertisement of generic parts, tools, and materials is allowed when such advertisement does not possess any trademarked image, brand, or name. Advertisers can refer to the items by name, function, quality, size, and description. Genuine parts can be advertised as such in accordance with the advertiser’s relationship and agreement with the manufacturer. We encourage advertisers to reach out to our members and market goods and services which will help them to professionally service their clients and represent themselves in a way which will “reflect positively on him or her, on the AWCI, and the entire watch and clock repair industry, including all of its participants.” – AWCI Code of Ethics

Horological Times 41 awci directory ADVERTISERS’ INDEX BOARD OF DIRECTORS Fellows * Robert F. Bishop AWCI Courses Officers * James H. Broughton Fred S. Burckhardt 513-367-9800 6 Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: President Alice B. Carpenter [email protected] David A. Christianson British Horological Institute Aaron Recksiek, CW21: Vice President * George Daniels bhi.co.uk 37 [email protected] Wes Door Jack Kurdzionak, CW21: Treasurer and IAB Director Jerry Faier Cas-Ker Co. [email protected] * Henry B. Fried 1-800-487-0408 27 Peter Pronko, PhD: Secretary * Josephine F. Hagans [email protected] * Orville R. Hagans Clocks Magazine * Ewell D. Hartman clocksmagazine.com 30 * Harold J. Herman Immediate Past President * J.M. Huckabee Fred T. White, CMW21 * Gerald G. Jaeger Jules Borel & Co. [email protected] Jack Kurdzionak 1-800-776-6858 ...inside front cover * Benjamin Matz Directors * Robert A. Nelson * Hamilton E. Pease Kessler Batteries/Sony Justin Harrell, CW21 800-527-0719 ...back cover * Archie B. Perkins [email protected] Robert D. Porter Craig Stone, CW21 Antoine Simonin NAWCC [email protected] nawcc.org 37 * William O. Smith, Jr. Dennis Warner, CW21: Affiliate Chapter Director * Milton C. Stevens [email protected] Dennis Warner Renata Batteries Peter Whittle * Marvin E. Whitney renatabatteries.us 22 [email protected] *Deceased

Witschi Electronic Ltd. Parliamentarian witschi.com 30 Paul Wadsworth American Watchmakers- [email protected] Clockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Dr. Harrison, OH 45030 Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI 513-367-9800 Fax: 513-367-1414 [email protected] • www.awci.com

WE THANK THE IAB AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their ongoing support of the institute and the industry.

Platinum Standard Members

Silver

Bronze

42 October 2018

Richemont owns several of the world’s leading luxury companies in the ﬁeld of luxury goods, with particular strengths in jewelry, luxury watches and other luxury accessories.

We are seeking talented and qualiﬁed Watchmakers to work for our brands located throughout the United States and Canada in our Boutiques and Service Centers.

Responsibilities

 Must be qualiﬁed to perform services which include Complete Maintenance and Quick Services on calibers that include o Quartz o Mechanical o Automatic o Chronograph o Complications  Diagnosis  Case Preparation  Achieve and maintain Production and Quality Objectives

Qualiﬁcations

 Accredited Certiﬁcation  Experience working with luxury brands preferred  Strong attention to detail, with the ability to handle multiple tasks  Ability to work in a fast-paced environment  Strong diagnostic skills  Good customer service and communication skills  Knowledge of SAP System would be a strong advantage

We offer competitive compensation, on-boarding program, benefits and relocation assistance. To be considered, please submit your resume and profile on www.Richemont.com or by fax to 817-283-2304. TIME & TIME INC. 7500 Bellaire Blvd Suite #930 Houston, TX 77036 Tel: 713-270-7786 Fax : 713-270-8768 Email: [email protected] www.timesupplyhouse.com

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