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Restoration & Construction Techniques
TM October 2018 SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY Restoration & Construction Techniques AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE Don’t lose track of time.. CALIBRATE EVERY TWO YEARS Current machines Out of production machines • Watch Expert G4 • Expert red (serial # >3,000) • Chronoscope S1 G2 • Expert II & III • Micromat C for Chronoscope X1 • Watchmatic I, II & III Elma blue • Micromat C computer version • New Tech Handy I • New Tech Handy II • Watchmaster I & II Elma blue • Analyzer Q1 • Chronoscope S1 G1 • Analyzer Twin • Chronoscope M1 • Q Test 6000 • Wicometer Pro GPS receiver uses 4-5 satellites to transfer a 1 pulse per second signal (1 Hz) to the timing machine. STOCK # DESCRIPTION PRICE TS-CALIBRATION A TIME BASED, ACCURACY UP TO 1/5000 OF A SECOND PER DAY $150.00 * Allow for 1 week turn around time JULES BOREL & CO. PHONE 800-776-6858 FAX 800-776-6862 WEB JULESBOREL.COM IN THIS VOLUME 42, NUMBERissue 10, October 2018 Feature Shop Tip: Seth Thomas No. 124 TM October 2018 Collectors and Mainspring-Winding Arbor SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY Watchmakers Unite By Bob Little, CC, CW Restoration & Construction Techniques Under RedBar Group page 20 Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute By Ken Nichols EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES page 23 American Watchmakers- Industry News Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) New Website for Authorized 701 Enterprise Drive AWCI News Watch Dealers Harrison, OH 45030 Vice President’s Message AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- By Aaron H. Recksiek, CW21 CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) By Aaron H. Recksiek, CW21 page 28 or 513-367-9800 page 5 Fax 513-367-1414 Popular Watch Blog Worn & [email protected] • www.awci.com Cover Image: www.facebook.com/MyAWCI Executive Director’s Message Wound Opens Online Watch By Jordan P. -
Parallel Worlds
PARALLEL ISSUE 03 WORLDS 1 WELCOME TO PARALLEL Creativity is an addiction. So powerful that there is no cure for it – we hope. “More, more, more” says our brain while adrenaline pulses through our veins. We feel elated, we feel invincible, we feel happy. With Parallel Worlds we bring you what makes our heart beat faster – what we create and what we would have loved to create – in a whirlwind of amazing stories by some of the greatest writers we know. WORLDS Every day we celebrate creativity, friendship, inspira- tion and the simple act of being meaningful. If any one of these pieces or stories can engage you to think different or create something on your own, you will have brought that extra smile to our already sunny day. Maximilian Büsser 40 72 130 44 54 96 86 CHAPTERS ANIMAL KINGDOM WHEN MACHINES WERE P. 5 BEAUTIFUL BREAKING THE RULES P. 10 5 P. 21 BACK TO CHILDHOOD ON THE ROAD P. 123 P. 39 TEN YEARS OF MB&F DEFYING GRAVITY P. 14 0 P. 6 3 M.A.D.GALLERY OUT OF THIS WORLD P. 142 P. 89 120 22 4 5 ANIMAL KINGDOM P. 6 P. 18 LOVE BUGS THE SENSATIONAL MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY OF NICKY BAY P. 12 MAN, MANTIS, AND MACHINE P. 19 OR THROUGH ALIEN EYES FROM SIMPLE INSECTS TO BUZZING P. 14 INTERNET SENSATIONS ARACHNOPHOBIA JEEPERS CREEPERS 6 ANIMAL KINGDOM 7 LOVE BUGS In “Mechanical Entomology,” M.A.D.Gallery’s first themed exhibition, four artists pay homage to the unexpected beauty of creepy, crawly critters. -
TIME out Who Weighed About Three Hundred and fifty Pounds and His Two Grocery Carts Crammed with Bags of Tostitos and Bot- Confessions of a Watch Geek
ELECTRONICALLY REPRINTED FROM MARCH 20, 2017 rence. Since turning forty, I’d started to PERSONAL HISTORY suffer from a heightened sense of claus- trophobia. A few years ago, I was stuck for an hour in an elevator with a man TIME OUT who weighed about three hundred and fifty pounds and his two grocery carts crammed with bags of Tostitos and bot- Confessions of a watch geek. tles of Canada Dry, an experience both BY GARY SHTEYNGART frightening and lonely. The elevator had simply given up. What if a subway train also refused to move? I began walking seventy blocks at a time or splurging on taxis. But on this day I had taken the N train. Somewhere between Forty- ninth Street and Forty-second Street, a signal failed and we ground to a halt. For forty minutes, we stood still. An old man yelled at the conductor at full vol- ume in English and Spanish. Time and space began to collapse around me. The orange seats began to march toward each other. I was no longer breathing with any regularity. This is not going to end well. None of this will end well. We will never leave here. We will always be underground. This, right here, is the rest of my life. I walked over to the conduc- tor’s silver cabin. He was calmly explain- ing to the incensed passenger the scope of his duties as an M.T.A. employee. “Sir,” I said to him, “I feel like I’m dying.” “City Hall, City Hall, we got a sick passenger,” he said into the radio. -
Who's the Grandest of Them All?
GPHG 2014 INDIA On September , competing watches will be exhibited at the Hotel Imperial, Delhi JURY DUTY ome October 31, the majestic Who’s the Grand Théâtre The exhibition will de Genève will travel to Delhi, Beij ing and Geneva grandest of Chost the 14th edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie John Mayer de Genève. By the end of to be sure-shot winners. Mayer has a massive stash the evening, 14 watches In fact, last year, little- of vintage Patek Philippe, them all? will have been awarded known watchmakers Rolex and IWC watches top prizes in categories like Habring2 and including the best Ressence won top The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Chronograph, Tourbillon, honours. Habring2 is a de Genève, the Oscars of the Calendar and Artistic husband-wife duo who watchmaking world, will be held in Craft, among others. run their own Austrian Switzerland this October. But even But don’t expect the watchmaking unit, while if you haven’t scored an invitation, usual suspects – the Ressence is just six years you’re still in luck. Many of the high-pro le Swiss old. “The GPHG is one of competing watches will be on haute horologists with the best ways for watch display this month in Delhi, says opulent showings at collectors to understand Nick Foulkes Varun Godinho BaselWorld and SIHH – up-and-coming brands. This British historian and author also writes about style and watches for GQ FOUR AVANT- ArtyA Broken Glass Sarpaneva Kosmos Rebellion Timepieces Konstantin Chaykin T-1000 Gotham Carpe Diem GARDE This wristwatch, shaped like Finnish watchmaker Stepan the head of a guitar, is one Sarpaneva makes only 35 This badass watch from the This Russian haute horologist PARTICIPATING of ArtyA’s saner models. -
Pricecutsareasignofthetimes
FT SPECIAL REPORT Watches & Jewellery Thursday March 27 2014 www.ft.com/reports | @ftreports Price cuts are a sign of the times Inside » Budgets blown for Swiss fairs Brands cannot Market expectations afford to stay away for Baselworld are despite rising costs Page 4 likely to be subdued, reports James Shotter Rethinking China New data suggest s record-breaking years go, appetite for luxury 2013 was a somewhat down- beat one for Switzerland’s watches may be on watchmakers. Although the rise again exports hit an all-time high, Aat SFr21.8bn ($24.8bn), they were just Page 8 1.9 per cent above the level achieved in 2012. For an industry used to double-digit Generation Y growth, the slowdown was something hits saleroom of a shock. So it is no surprise that as members Collectors in their of the industry gather in Switzerland at the annual Baselworld trade fair, 20s and 30s set which opens in the city on the the pace in Asia French-German border today, there is more than a little caution in Page 10 the air. “I think it will be a difficult year,” says Michele Sofisti, who doubles as Exclusive and head of Gucci’s watches division and irreverent chief executive of Sowind Group, the Swiss haute horlogerie company that Anticipation: the Baselworld fair opens in Switzerland this week Getty Inside the private owns the Girard Perregaux and Jean- Richard brands. world of designer “Of course, things can improve; it change of direction in an industry everyone pays very close attention to “For example, if we have a collec- showy watches, reflecting the zeit- Glenn Spiro depends on the world economy. -
District Monthly
MAY 2021 DIAM ND 130VOL. DISTRICT MONTHLY INTRODUCING: “COVID SUCCESS STORIES” Following a year of tragedy and heartbreak, like the improbable buds of new growth that rise from scorched ground after a forest fire, signs of life have begun to blossom from the pavement of West 47th Street. Through the ashes of COVID-19 sprout daily stories of rebirth and renewal within the Diamond District. Starting with our May 2021 edition, Diamond District Monthly will attempt to share these stories in a new feature called COVID Success Stories. HATZALAH OF MIDTOWN NEEDS HELP SAVING LIVES IN THE DIAMOND DISTRICT The sight of the Hatzalah of Midtown ambulance parked off Fifth Ave. on West 47th Street may be so familiar that many Diamond District regulars no longer notice it. But whether or not you notice the ambulance isn’t important; just as long as it’s there when you need it. Unfortunately, the dire effects of the COVID pandemic over the past year have severely strained the organization’s finances leaving some to wonder just how available Hatzalah of Midtown will be in the future should the need arise. Continued on page 10 WHAT’S INSIDE In the News, pg 4; Market Trends, pg 6; Industry Spotlight, pg 8; diamonddistrict.org Diamond District Partnership News, pg 9; Crime Report, pg 18 LETTER FROM THE EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Dear Friend, Between March 29th and May 17th, 2020, actor John Krasinski, best known for playing the affable prankster Jim on NBC’s popular TV series, The Office, hosted a unique show he created for YouTube called Some Good News. -
Risks and Opportunities for the Swiss Watch Industry
Copie Juré Copie Conseiller Copie Infothèque Risks and opportunities for the Swiss watch industry Travail de Bachelor réalisé en vue de l’obtention du Bachelor HES par : Alexander Kenel Conseiller au travail de Bachelor : Cyril Pasche Genève, 17.08.2018 Haute École de Gestion de Genève (HEG-GE) Filière économie d’entreprise Déclaration Ce travail de Bachelor est réalisé dans le cadre de l’examen final de la Haute école de gestion de Genève, en vue de l’obtention du titre de Bachelor of Science en économie d’entreprise < … >. L’étudiant a envoyé ce document par email à l'adresse d'analyse remise par son conseiller au travail de Bachelor pour analyse par le logiciel de détection de plagiat URKUND. http://www.urkund.com/fr/student/392-urkund-faq L’étudiant accepte, le cas échéant, la clause de confidentialité. L'utilisation des conclusions et recommandations formulées dans le travail de Bachelor, sans préjuger de leur valeur, n'engage ni la responsabilité de l'auteur, ni celle du conseiller au travail de Bachelor, du juré et de la HEG. « J’atteste avoir réalisé seul< e > le présent travail, sans avoir utilisé des sources autres que celles citées dans la bibliographie. » Fait à Genève, le 13.08.2018 Alexander Kenel Risks and opportunities for the Swiss watch industry KENEL, Alexander 1 Summary In the first part of my bachelor thesis I am presenting the watch industry in Switzerland. My goal is to impart the most essential information to convey a good overview about this highly interesting domain. I am explaining the current state of the sector, but also important historical events like the quartz crisis from the 1970ies. -
"Code Und Zeit", Vortrag Im Rahmen Der Öffentlichen Ringvorlesu
["NOTIZBUCH CHRONOTECHNIKEN"] Vom Archiv als Arretierung temporaler Prozesse zu zeitkritischen Medien Kodierung und Zeit Timing: Codierung von Zeit als Information Echtzeit, zeitkritisch Zeit im (akustik/ver)rechnenden Raum Entzeitlichung des Codes Entzeitlichung der Übertragung: Sampling Die A/D-Differenz, zeitkritisch betrachtet Kulturtechnische versus prozesskritische Zeit Zeit jenseits von Medien als Prothesen des Menschen Zeitkodierung der Sinne (Hermann von Helmholtz) Ton - Zahl - Zeit Zeit, Zahl und Maß Jenseits der ontologischen Zeit Zeit und Kybernetik (Wiener) Zeit, Physik, Entropie Zeit mit Fourier <...> [Farben] Zeit mit Kant Uhren: Medien der Kodierung von Zeit Zeit und Code: Morsen Signalzeit Maschinenzeit Computerzeit Ton und Gewalt Zeit, nachrichtentheoretisch Pendel, Bildtelegraphie Streaming data: Archive auf Zeit Verzögerungsspeicher Zeitverzug Streaming, zeitkritisch: Zeit als medialer Kanal (das Zwischenarchiv) Logikanalysator Digitaler Geld- als Datentransfer Hochfrequenzhandel(n) "Just in time"-Produktion Diskrete Zeit-Zustände Diskrete (Speicher-)Zustände versus Zeitfluß Jenseits des Archivs: Vom Speichern zum Übertragen Hyperkult / Hypertext / WWW / Archiv Das digitale Jahr-2000-Problem Kurzschluß 2000 / 1900: Ein Zeit-Bild (Kino, Grab) Zuständlich denken: Annalistik Zeitreihen mit Markov Erinnerung an die Hardware Jenseits der Ökonomie des Archivs: Vom Speichern zum Übertragen Stochastische Ereignisfolgen Archäographie: seriell schreiben Nachrichtenlagen Geschichte formal schreiben Er/zählen Videobilder Medienbasierte -
Catalogue Are Statements of Opinion and Are Not to Be Taken As Statements Or Representations of Fact
28th Annual HOROLOGICAL AUCTION For The Westcountry Horological Trust Registered Charity No. 1082255 th Saturday 19 October 2019 12.30 p.m. Viewing on Sale Day from 10.00 a.m. until Noon ONLY at Exeter School’s Assembly Hall Manston Terrace, off Magdalen Road, Exeter, EX2 4NP 255 Lots Books Watches Clocks Parts Materials Equipment Movements Tools Auctioneer - David Force FNAEA Lot 186 NB: The school has a NO SMOKING AND NO DOGS policy over the WHOLE OF THE SCHOOL SITE LOT 186 LOT 186 LOT 186 LOT 186 LOT 52 LOT 118 LOT 118 LOT 120 LOT 120 LOT 115 LOT 147 LOT 182 LOT 183 LOT 187 LOT 198 LOT 209 LOT 232 LOT 209 Saturday 19th October 2019 On arrival please hand in your completed Bidder’s Form to obtain a Paddle Number for bidding. CONDITIONS OF SALE 1. The vendors, the BHI SW Branch and the Westcountry Horological Trust do NOT make or give, nor has any other person any authority to make or give, any representations or warranty. Each lot is sold with all faults, imperfections and errors of description and neither the vendor nor the auctioneer is responsible for the authenticity, attribution, genuineness, origin, authorship, date, age, period, condition or quality of any lot. All statements and estimates in this catalogue are statements of opinion and are not to be taken as statements or representations of fact. Purchasers are deemed to have satisfied themselves before bidding by inspection or otherwise to all such matters, and as to the physical description of any lot. -
After NASA's Space Shuttle Program Closed Down in , the Russian
19.06.2020 Editors' Picks: Forbidden Fruit: Four Awesome Watch Brands That Aren't Available In The U.S. - HODINKEE SHOP After NASA's Space Shuttle program closed down in , the Russian- built Soyuz became the only way for crews to reach the International Space Station. Private firms like Boeing and SpaceX are close to eliminating American dependency on Russian spacecraft by developing their own solutions, but it's important to note that for almost a decade NASA astronauts have been utilizing a Soviet design from the s for important crewed missions. Circumstances have never forced American watch enthusiasts to consider Russian alternatives, but if those alternatives are good enough for NASA, it's worth paying attention to. And Raketa is right at the top of the horology offerings Russia's putting out. Currently there are three boutiques located between St. Petersburg, where the watches are made, and Moscow. There are none in the U.S. The Russian Code watch is designed after the notion that in space, time passes differently than on earth. To most folks who have ever worn a watch, it looks backwards. And it is. The hands, including the second https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/forbidden-fruit-four-watches-not-available-in-the-us 5/22 19.06.2020 Editors' Picks: Forbidden Fruit: Four Awesome Watch Brands That Aren't Available In The U.S. - HODINKEE hand, actually turn backwards in normal motion. The Earth actually SHOP rotates counter clockwise as well, so this interpretation of time is supposed to mimic the "natural" directionality of time in space. -
Hongkongtumblesas Chinesetravelbeyond
FT SPECIAL REPORT Watches Jewellery Baselworld Imitation game Market movers Tough economic times The spectacular stories Asian diaspora’s lavish put pressure on the fair behind costume jewels gold-buying is changing FULL COVERAGE Pages 2-4 MY FAVOURITE PIECES Page 18 BREAKING THE CHAINS Page 14 Thursday March 17 2016 www.ft.com/reports | @ftreports Hong Kong tumbles as Chinese travel beyond pace in five years and well below long- Mostunderpressureareoperationsin But the watch run averages. Demand for luxury Hong Kong, long a hub for sales across watches in energy-exporting economies Asia. Hong Kong is feeling the effects of market may have has been hit by the precipitous fall in oil overstocking, which have yet to be prices. workedthrough(seepage9),aswellasa reached its bottom, “It looks like the outlook may even stronger US dollar, to which the Hong have worsened since the end of 2015,” Kong dollar is pegged. Swiss watch says Ralph Atkins says Julie Saussier, consumer industries exports to Hong Kong in January were analyst at Credit Suisse. “Hong Kong is 33 per cent lower than a year earlier, still faring badly, and in Europe you according to the Federation of the Swiss atchmakers gather for have had the effects of November’s ter- WatchIndustry. the Baselworld fair rorismattacksinParis.” A turnround in Hong Kong may be against a gloomy eco- What matters crucially will be some way off. Thomas Chauvet, luxury nomic backdrop. The demand from Chinese consumers. The goods analyst at Citigroup, reports a W luxury timepieces industry has been hit by the crackdown “profound change” in Chinese percep- industry is weathering not just sluggish on“gifting”aspartofthecountry’santi- tions of Hong Kong. -
Herman Mayer
TIMES TM ADVANCING THE ART, SCIENCE & BUSINESS OF HOROLOGY October 2013 HOROLOGICAL AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- Herman Mayer: Modern Mechanical Chronograph 7750 CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE Edmond Capt: A Man of Record reprinted from WatchTime magazine Student paper: Magnetic Indexing of the Minute Counting Wheel Robert Little: Refurbishing and reinstallation of The Village of Glouster Clock, Part 2 Horological Times October 2013 1 BEST Crystal Presses and a NEW Crystal Catalog Bergeon Professional Crystal Press Fit regular and tension ring crystals. Includes: Twelve reversible, tapered aluminum upper fixtures from 15–44mm Nine lower domed plastic fixtures from 12–40mm Nine lower reversible aluminum support fixtures from 16–33mm A large wooden base to store fixtures and press Attachment posts uses threaded BG5500A $469.00 shafts to attach dies Swiss Heavy Duty Press Heavy duty press with long arm gives great leverage, power, and control. Ideal for Mineral glass crystals with gaskets Non-Scratch Flat Delrin Dies Tension ring crystals and case Just a few of the many dies available for both back closing where even pressure presses. See pages 94-96 of the Watch and Jewelry is a necessity. Tools Catalog or log on to julesborel.com. Dies not included BG6173 $589.00 New! Shown with dies which are sold separately NEW! 2014 Crystal Catalog If you haven’t received our latest Crystal Catalog, order CAT-CRY 2014 today More crystal assortments More brand specific crystals More magnifying lenses Jules Borel & Co. 1110 Grand Boulevard n Kansas City, Missouri