The Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study 2017 It's All About Digital
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Restoration & Construction Techniques
TM October 2018 SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY Restoration & Construction Techniques AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE Don’t lose track of time.. CALIBRATE EVERY TWO YEARS Current machines Out of production machines • Watch Expert G4 • Expert red (serial # >3,000) • Chronoscope S1 G2 • Expert II & III • Micromat C for Chronoscope X1 • Watchmatic I, II & III Elma blue • Micromat C computer version • New Tech Handy I • New Tech Handy II • Watchmaster I & II Elma blue • Analyzer Q1 • Chronoscope S1 G1 • Analyzer Twin • Chronoscope M1 • Q Test 6000 • Wicometer Pro GPS receiver uses 4-5 satellites to transfer a 1 pulse per second signal (1 Hz) to the timing machine. STOCK # DESCRIPTION PRICE TS-CALIBRATION A TIME BASED, ACCURACY UP TO 1/5000 OF A SECOND PER DAY $150.00 * Allow for 1 week turn around time JULES BOREL & CO. PHONE 800-776-6858 FAX 800-776-6862 WEB JULESBOREL.COM IN THIS VOLUME 42, NUMBERissue 10, October 2018 Feature Shop Tip: Seth Thomas No. 124 TM October 2018 Collectors and Mainspring-Winding Arbor SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY Watchmakers Unite By Bob Little, CC, CW Restoration & Construction Techniques Under RedBar Group page 20 Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute By Ken Nichols EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES page 23 American Watchmakers- Industry News Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) New Website for Authorized 701 Enterprise Drive AWCI News Watch Dealers Harrison, OH 45030 Vice President’s Message AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- By Aaron H. Recksiek, CW21 CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) By Aaron H. Recksiek, CW21 page 28 or 513-367-9800 page 5 Fax 513-367-1414 Popular Watch Blog Worn & [email protected] • www.awci.com Cover Image: www.facebook.com/MyAWCI Executive Director’s Message Wound Opens Online Watch By Jordan P. -
Material Progressions: Richard Mille
Spotlight | 53 Material Progressions 5 Last year, QP writer Nick Foulkes used the term ‘garage brand’ to describe Richard Mille’s watches, and he wasn’t far off. He was using the term to describe the ‘upstart’ whose hi-tech creations have been on the market for just five years, yet have managed to attract attention and admiration from the public and industry insiders – admittedly with the help of Audemars Piguet’s justly famous Renaud & Papi studio. But this was just the start, as Theodore Diehl, Richard Mille’s Head of Communications and chief enthusiast tells QP. The transition to real brand status will be truly crystallised by 2006’s panoramic collection. Theodore Diehl One of the most noticeable features of Richard Mille’s RM005 FM’s colours are meant as a celebration of Felipe 2006 collection is the use of colour. This is surprising for Massa’s racing period at BMW Sauber and his new start anyone familiar with the Frenchman’s oeuvre, which with the Ferrari racing team in 2006. has – with the possible exception of last year’s RM007 haute joaillerie ladies’ model – thus far banked on the However, unlike the ultra-light RM009 FM, which was unmistakeable aesthetic of hi-tech, brushed-metal utility. brought out in 25 pieces, the RM005 FM will be created For the first time, colour makes an appearance in two in 300 pieces with micro-blasted titanium cases and 40 special editions of the automatic RM005. This model, pieces in platinum. The colours used in the platinum characterised by a variable-geometry rotor, carries the version are taken from his former team – blue/yellow ‘FM’ postscript first assigned to last year’s RM009 with a touch of green – and the titanium version takes its tourbillon, designed in honour of F1 driver and brand fan cue from the Brazilian flag of his homeland, with green The RM005 FM in platinum, named after Brazilian F1 driver Felipe Massa, whose initials first graced last year’s ultra-light RM009. -
The Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study 2020 an Accelerated Transformation the Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study 2020 | an Accelerated Transformation
The Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study 2020 An accelerated transformation The Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study 2020 | An accelerated transformation About the study This report is the seventh edition of the Deloitte study on the Swiss watch industry. It is based on an online survey and interviews conducted between mid-August and mid-September 2020 with 55 senior executives in the watch industry. The study is also based on an online survey of 5,800 consumers in China, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Singapore, Switzerland, the United Arab Emirates, the United Kingdom and the United States. The year 2020 marks 175 years of Deloitte making an impact that matters. Today Deloitte is a thriving global organisation, which has grown to more than 300,000 people proudly carrying forth a legacy of connection and collaboration. We’re not trusted because we’ve existed for 175 years. We’ve existed for 175 years because we’re trustworthy. That’s our legacy. That’s our future. 02 The Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study 2020 | An accelerated transformation Contents 1. Key findings 04 2. Industry overview 05 2.1 COVID-19: Unexpected and unprecedented 05 2.2 Quartz watches: Continuing drop in exports and sales 07 2.3 China: Key for recovery and growth 09 3. Looking ahead 11 3.1 Beyond the pandemic 11 3.2 The Far East and high-end are vital for growth 12 4. Challenges remain 13 4.1 External risks: Protests and politics 13 4.2 Smartwatches: Industry missed the boat 14 5. Business strategies 18 5.1 Digitalising for a ’consumer first’ world 18 5.2 The pre-owned market heats up 23 5.3 Sustainability: The future is green 25 6. -
Richard Mille Named Official Time Richard Mille Named
Richard Mille named official timetime----keepingkeeping partner for Yas Marina Circuit and Yas Racing School Abu Dhabi ––– Yas Marina Circuit has named Richard Mille as its official time-keeping partner over the next three years. To celebrate the new association, Richard Mille has launched a limited-edition watch, the RM 011 Felipe Massa Flyback Chronograph Yas Marina Circuit unveiled at the circuit on Thursday 24 of March. The RM 011 has been first developed by Richard Mille in collaboration with Formula 1 driver Felipe Massa. It features a flyback chronograph, an annular calendar function, 60-minute countdown timer, oversized date 12- hour totalizer and a case design combining a titanium central case band with a white gold bezel and bottom case. For this special occasion, RM 011 Yas Marina Circuit has been now presented in an exclusive Yas Marina- coloured livery with a bright blue inner bezel and a white rubber strap. Only ten of the 18k white gold watches will be produced and they are available exclusively through Yas Marina Circuit. Richard Cregan, Chief Executive Officer of Yas Marina Circuit, commented: “This partnership with Richard Mille recognizes the brand ’s reputation for innovative technology and cutting-edge design. Accurate time-keeping is at the heart of motorsport and Yas Marina Circuit is globally renowned for the way design has defined our unique appearance, so the two companies are well matched. We look forward to a successful partnership over the next years.” Peter Harrison, CEO of Richard Mille EMEA said, ‟Richard Mille gained recognition by creating watches with a strong identity; he pioneered and revolutionized high-end watchmaking by applying concepts and materials from the world of motorsport and aerospace. -
Italian Chef Carlo Cracco New Partner of Richard Mille
ITALIAN CHEF CARLO CRACCO NEW PARTNER OF RICHARD MILLE Richard Mille is delighted to welcome Italian Michelin-Starred Chef Carlo Cracco to its elite stable of Brand Partners. Carlo Cracco is regarded by many as one of the masters of contemporary Italian Cuisine with two Michelin Stars, three Gambero Rosso ‘forks’ as well as being given an exceptional 18,5/20 from the Italian magazine L’Espresso. He started his professional career in 1986 with Gualtiero Marchesi, who is considered to be the founder of Italian Modern Cuisine. He then moved to France to join Alain Ducasse (Hotel de Paris, Monaco) and Lucas Cartons (Senderens, Paris) refining his culinary skills and learning the secrets of French Haute Cuisine. In 1991 he moved back to Italy to be the Head Chef at Enoteca Pinchiorri, Florence, which was awarded three Michelin Stars. Gualtiero Marchesi then offered him the honour of opening his new restaurant, L’Albereta in Erbusco where Cracco was chef for the following three years. In 1996 Cracco decided to open his own restaurant, Le Clivie, in Piobesi D’Alba. The restaurant was awarded its first Michelin star a year later. The year 2000 represented a turning point in Cracco’s career; he accepted the invite of the Stoppani family (owners of the famous Peck delicatessen in Milan since 1883) to become Chef Excutive of a new joint venture; the restaurant Cracco-Peck. In 2001 he saw his dream come true when the restaurant got awarded two Michelin Stars, three ‘forks’ from the Gambero Rosso guide and 18,5/20 from the Italian magazine L’Espresso. -
Richard Mille Congratulates Manchester City Football Club Champions of Barclays Premier League 2013/14
RICHARD MILLE CONGRATULATES MANCHESTER CITY FOOTBALL CLUB CHAMPIONS OF BARCLAYS PREMIER LEAGUE 2013/14 Richard Mille congratulates Manchester City Football Club for their victory of the Barclays Premier League 2013/14. The Club secured UK’s most prestigious football title for the second time in three years; an achievement that reconfirms City as being one of the top teams in the world. Heading in to the last round of games City knew that securing a win against West Ham would guarantee the title. Manager Manuel Pellegrini encouraged his players to finish the season with the same style and attacking flair that had seen them scoring over 100 goals in 37 games. Eventually goals from Samir Nasri and Vincent Kompany proved vital as City got the win that allowed them to regain the Barclay’s Premier League Trophy. Richard Mille has been MCFC’s Official Timing Partner since 2012, another key year for the Club’s history as City won the 2011–12 Barclay’s Premier League bringing home their first league title for 44 years. The partnership benefits from a strong affinity of values both the Club and the Swiss watch brand share: Richard Mille’s drive for passion, belief in excellence, leadership, and generation of talent is reflected in the partnerships the brand established with the world’s leading sports elite, which include Tennis Champion Rafael Nadal, Olympic Medallist Yohan Blake and World Rally Champion Sebastien Loeb. Manchester City and Richard Mille also succeed in working together on charity programmes to the benefit of local communities: Manchester City’s own charity ‘City in the Community’ has recently received a generous donation following the sale of a bespoke timepiece designed by Richard Mille. -
Classic Timeless - Man
CLASSIC TIMELESS - MAN Stylish serenity for gentlemen. The fine simplicity of these 3 hand date automatic timepieces, references C4494 and C4495 makes these timepieces irresistible for men seeking classic, timeless style combined with functionality. A 40mm wide steel case frames the dial with a subtle striped pattern in its center. Applied indices paired with slender hands guarantee optimal reading of the time. The roman or arabic figures in steel underline the sheer elegance of this model. • Key features: - Men's 3 Hands watch - Automatic movement - Stainless steel 316L case - Case diameter: 40 mm - Steel bracelet (C4495) - Black leather strap (C4494) - Sapphire crystal - Calendar - Water resistance – 10 ATM: 100 meters C4495 - RRP: 429 € C4495/1 C4494/1 C4494 - RRP: 399 € FESTINA GROUP With over 30 years of history, the Festina Group is today a prestigious international company specialised in the production and marketing of popularly priced watches, top-range timepieces, movements and precision parts. Currently, the Group manufactures six brands of watches for the general market (Calypso, Lotus, Festina, Regata, Jaguar and Candino), two top-range brands (Perrelet and L.Leroy) and two jewellery brands (Lotus Style and Lotus Silver), to meet the full range of consumer demand. The Group’s head office is located in Barcelona while our major production centres are in Switzerland, Spain and China. Today, the Group has eight subsidiaries (France, Germany, Italy, Benelux, Switzerland, Czech Republic and Poland, Chile and México), is present in over 90 countries on the five continents and sells over 4.5 million watches a year. The quality of the firm’s products, the excellent value for money and the special attention paid to post-sales service all contribute to making the Festina Group leader in many strategic markets. -
Parallel Worlds
PARALLEL ISSUE 03 WORLDS 1 WELCOME TO PARALLEL Creativity is an addiction. So powerful that there is no cure for it – we hope. “More, more, more” says our brain while adrenaline pulses through our veins. We feel elated, we feel invincible, we feel happy. With Parallel Worlds we bring you what makes our heart beat faster – what we create and what we would have loved to create – in a whirlwind of amazing stories by some of the greatest writers we know. WORLDS Every day we celebrate creativity, friendship, inspira- tion and the simple act of being meaningful. If any one of these pieces or stories can engage you to think different or create something on your own, you will have brought that extra smile to our already sunny day. Maximilian Büsser 40 72 130 44 54 96 86 CHAPTERS ANIMAL KINGDOM WHEN MACHINES WERE P. 5 BEAUTIFUL BREAKING THE RULES P. 10 5 P. 21 BACK TO CHILDHOOD ON THE ROAD P. 123 P. 39 TEN YEARS OF MB&F DEFYING GRAVITY P. 14 0 P. 6 3 M.A.D.GALLERY OUT OF THIS WORLD P. 142 P. 89 120 22 4 5 ANIMAL KINGDOM P. 6 P. 18 LOVE BUGS THE SENSATIONAL MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY OF NICKY BAY P. 12 MAN, MANTIS, AND MACHINE P. 19 OR THROUGH ALIEN EYES FROM SIMPLE INSECTS TO BUZZING P. 14 INTERNET SENSATIONS ARACHNOPHOBIA JEEPERS CREEPERS 6 ANIMAL KINGDOM 7 LOVE BUGS In “Mechanical Entomology,” M.A.D.Gallery’s first themed exhibition, four artists pay homage to the unexpected beauty of creepy, crawly critters. -
TIME out Who Weighed About Three Hundred and fifty Pounds and His Two Grocery Carts Crammed with Bags of Tostitos and Bot- Confessions of a Watch Geek
ELECTRONICALLY REPRINTED FROM MARCH 20, 2017 rence. Since turning forty, I’d started to PERSONAL HISTORY suffer from a heightened sense of claus- trophobia. A few years ago, I was stuck for an hour in an elevator with a man TIME OUT who weighed about three hundred and fifty pounds and his two grocery carts crammed with bags of Tostitos and bot- Confessions of a watch geek. tles of Canada Dry, an experience both BY GARY SHTEYNGART frightening and lonely. The elevator had simply given up. What if a subway train also refused to move? I began walking seventy blocks at a time or splurging on taxis. But on this day I had taken the N train. Somewhere between Forty- ninth Street and Forty-second Street, a signal failed and we ground to a halt. For forty minutes, we stood still. An old man yelled at the conductor at full vol- ume in English and Spanish. Time and space began to collapse around me. The orange seats began to march toward each other. I was no longer breathing with any regularity. This is not going to end well. None of this will end well. We will never leave here. We will always be underground. This, right here, is the rest of my life. I walked over to the conduc- tor’s silver cabin. He was calmly explain- ing to the incensed passenger the scope of his duties as an M.T.A. employee. “Sir,” I said to him, “I feel like I’m dying.” “City Hall, City Hall, we got a sick passenger,” he said into the radio. -
Festina Chrono Bike. the Legend Returns
Festina Chrono Bike. The Legend Returns. The renowned Spanish watch brand presents the new edition of the legendary Chrono Bike Collection. The design of Festina’s most sought after chronograph is inspired directly from the world of cycling, where the Festina brand has been at the forefront for over 25 years. Certain parallels can be drawn between the design features and the characteristics of a bike; the pushers look like the brake pads of a mountain bike, the case back resembles a brake disc, the screws on the bezel are inspired by the wheel hubs and the steel bracelet has a chain link effect. This year’s collection (F20327) includes 8 stainless steel models with a case diameter of 44mm and mineral glass. All watches will come with and interchangeable rubber strap. For those who love that touch of exclusivity the 2017 Chrono Bike line includes a Special Edition with superior finishing, such as sapphire glass and black and copper IP treatment. In addition this exclusive model comes with its own special packaging, with an additional strap and the tool to change it. Chrono Bike Collection Specifications: - Gents chronograph - 316L stainless steel - 44 mm case diameter - Mineral glass - 26-21 mm stainless steel bracelet - 10 ATM - Interchangeable rubber strap. F20327 Chrono Bike Collection F20327/1 F20327/2 F20327/3 F20327/4 Chrono Bike Collection F20327/5 F20327/6 F20327/7 F20327/8 Chrono Bike Special Edition Specifications: - Special Edition - Gents chronograph - 316L stainless steel with black and copper IP treatment - 44 mm case diameter - Sapphire crystal - 26-21 mm stainless steel bracelet with black IP treatment - 10 ATM - Special Edition box with an additional rubber strap and a tool to change the strap. -
Who's the Grandest of Them All?
GPHG 2014 INDIA On September , competing watches will be exhibited at the Hotel Imperial, Delhi JURY DUTY ome October 31, the majestic Who’s the Grand Théâtre The exhibition will de Genève will travel to Delhi, Beij ing and Geneva grandest of Chost the 14th edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie John Mayer de Genève. By the end of to be sure-shot winners. Mayer has a massive stash the evening, 14 watches In fact, last year, little- of vintage Patek Philippe, them all? will have been awarded known watchmakers Rolex and IWC watches top prizes in categories like Habring2 and including the best Ressence won top The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Chronograph, Tourbillon, honours. Habring2 is a de Genève, the Oscars of the Calendar and Artistic husband-wife duo who watchmaking world, will be held in Craft, among others. run their own Austrian Switzerland this October. But even But don’t expect the watchmaking unit, while if you haven’t scored an invitation, usual suspects – the Ressence is just six years you’re still in luck. Many of the high-pro le Swiss old. “The GPHG is one of competing watches will be on haute horologists with the best ways for watch display this month in Delhi, says opulent showings at collectors to understand Nick Foulkes Varun Godinho BaselWorld and SIHH – up-and-coming brands. This British historian and author also writes about style and watches for GQ FOUR AVANT- ArtyA Broken Glass Sarpaneva Kosmos Rebellion Timepieces Konstantin Chaykin T-1000 Gotham Carpe Diem GARDE This wristwatch, shaped like Finnish watchmaker Stepan the head of a guitar, is one Sarpaneva makes only 35 This badass watch from the This Russian haute horologist PARTICIPATING of ArtyA’s saner models. -
Press Release
Press release Zurich/Geneva, 3 December 2020 Global Powers of Luxury Goods: Swiss luxury goods companies started the year of crisis on a high With the highest net profit margin, Swiss luxury goods companies outperformed their international competitors in 2019, which gave them a head start into a difficult 2020. Especially in the subcategory for jewellery and watches, Swiss companies continue to shine, accounting for 32% of all companies in this sector in this year's Deloitte Global Powers of Luxury Goods Top 100 ranking. With two companies in the top 10 and a total of 10 companies, one up from the previous year, Switzerland generated 13.2% of luxury goods sales of the top 100 companies. While almost all the Swiss companies continued to grow, Swatch Group saw negative growth of 3% and dropped from 8th to 10th place in this year's ranking. At the same time, Swiss luxury watchmaker Richard Mille raced to the top of the 20 fastest-growing companies, recording impressive growth of 200%. The COVID-19 pandemic has walloped luxury goods manufacturers. Travel restrictions and shops closures across the globe during the lockdown caused massive falls in traditional retail sales. Despite the promising news of several effective vaccines on the horizon, a rapid end to the crisis seems unlikely. The good news, however, is that 2019 was a good year for luxury goods companies in Switzerland, giving them a good starting position for a difficult 2020. At 16.2%, Switzerland had the highest net profit margin out of all the countries in the top 100 and recorded a year-on-year luxury goods sales growth rate of 6.9%, an increase of 1.8 percentage points on the previous year.