Friends of Morocco
Fall 2002 Www.friendsofmorocco.org
Kicking off the Celebration of 40 years of Peace Corps in Morocco By Tim Resch, FOM President 2 serving 1963 to 1965, two starting in After a visit to the Hassan II mosque 1968, three starting service in 1970, one on the waterfront, we went for lunch The Friends of Morocco 40th from 1990 and another from 2000. Also at the “Association Solidarite Anniversary Celebration tour had high on the tour were former residents of Feminine” women’s shelter (www. expectations going in, and, due to the Morocco as well as family and friends of lamarocaine.com/ work of many people, exceeded those travelers. We were a diverse group solidaritefeminine). The shelter’s expectations. The tour by 18 members reuniting and spouting fragments of programs and challenges were of FOM October 5-15, 2002 visited the Moroccan dialectical Arabic in the Royal Air explained to us. Afif Bennani, a coastal cites of Rabat, Casablanca, El Maroc section of JFK. noted Moroccan artist, had donated Jadida, Safi and Essouira then went a painting to the Center for revenue A portentous omen was an article on the inland to Marrakech and back to generation, which was generously group’s visit in the October 5 issue of Le Agadir on the coast and into the Souss purchased by Linda Whittington. Matin handed out to passengers boarding Vally and the Anti-Atlas towns of Linda had also presented to the the flight titled “Une delegation de Taroudant and Tafarout over 10 days Center collection of toiletries that by chartered bus. More than half she had collected in the of the participants extended their States. time in Morocco to visit friends, Onward to Rabat, for a tour of “family” and former sites. Those the Peace Corps office and subsequent visits will be the then to the residence of the subject of separate articles in this Peace Corps/Morocco and the next FOM Newsletter. Director, Barbara Durr for a Like the Moroccan-American reception. Attending were the Friendship tour in November of volunteers of the Volunteer 2001, the touristic was combined Advisory Committee; Peace with visits with serving volunteers, Corps staff, past and present, meetings with Peace Corps staff, a including the four staff with reunion with Moroccans connected over twenty years of service to with Peace Corps and the U.S., such as l’organisation americaine “Amis du Maroc” Peace Corps/Morocco Daouia the Moroccan Chapter of the University a Rabat. The article was based on a news Belmokadem, Abdou Laanaya, Najia of Minnesota Alumni Association. We release by the US Embassy and Peace Ben Bella and Abdesslam El Khomri visited a women’s shelter and pediatric Corps and had been picked up by Maghreb (see page16 for Peace Corps cancer ward in Casablanca, the Arab Press (MAP). memories from Daouia, Abdou, Najia American Language Center of and Abdesslam) and the FOM During hotel check-in in Casa, we had a set Marrakech, schools for the deaf in liaison, Mhamed El Kadi; Embassy of press interviews. Mike Smith Agadir and a large commercial orange- representatives, Steve Hanchey of (Casablanca 63-65) was interviewed by clementine farm in Taroudant. the FOM 2001 tour and now (and subsequently published by) the Arabic resident in Morocco as the Director Below are some of the highlights: Language Newspaper “Al Bidaoui”. Tim of the Casablanca English Learning Resch did a short television interview and Center, and Dr Fouzi Msfer Aloui, Arriving by car, train, plane and taxi, then he and Hassan met with 15 print Director of the Unité d'Hémato- the group assembled at JFK airport to journalists. Thanks here to Boubaker oncologie Pédiatrique at the Hôpital board an evening flight to Casablanca. Mazoz, US Embassy Public Affairs d'Enfants de Rabat to which FOM We had three volunteers from Morocco Specialist in Casablanca. (Continued on page 9) Page 2 Friends of Morocco Ash Khabarna? Editor’s note: I sincerely apologize for Africa, 3 years in Chile and 3 years in husband, neighbor and 9 to 5 dentist, any errors in the last installment of Mexico. We then went to Ontario, but alas no longer captain of my Ash Khabarna. Most of these entries Canada where I was manager of a tire destiny.” Contact Patrick at are typed and not cut and pasted, so it plant. Then to Carlisle, PA for 5 years,
information most of his career) and Carol Stockholm, Sweden working with (Continued from page 2) Sylvia Cabus—Rabat 00-02 is a program moved out of teaching and into drug addicts and the homeless. manager with Catholic Relief Services in consulting. Contact the McCrearys at Peter recently celebrated the 20th Baltimore. Contact Sylvia at
RPCV Morocco web sites and list servs In addition to the Friends of Morocco web site, a number of other web sites and list serves are being developed for subsets of the Friends of Morocco community. Below is an attempt to list some of the major (and more vibrant) ones. Omissions can be sent to
 Culinary Tour to Morocco: May 6—May 20, 2003 Join us in getting to the heart of Moroccan culture through an exploration of her exquisite cuisine. Discover the secrets of Moroccan dishes by watching renowned chefs as well as home cooks prepare classic creation such as stew-like tagines; hearty, well-spiced soups; vegetable salads in flavorful olive oil dressings; savory and sweet pastry delights; and signature dishes such as bestila, which is made with almost translucent pastry sheets, and the classic Berber couscous. Vist bustling markets to learn about the herbs, spcies and condiments prevalent in Moroccan cookery. See the major tourist sights, yet still have time to shop and relax along the way. The tour will be lead by Joan Peterson, author of Eat Smart in Morocco. For more information, contact Joan at
(Continued from page 4) elderly and created a ferocious squeaked, then lerched forward, and took off like lightening after the beggar commotion. They were determined and gradually picked up speed to a steady down the street. The other waiters and succeeded in kicking the men out! They clickety clack. Suddenly a piercing most of the café patrons all followed in proceeded to pack their bundles into blast of warbling youyous came from hot pursuit to stop a massacre of the the entire area and positioned the two women. It was loud enough for poor beggar. If I had been a Hollywood themselves on top of it all. They seemed fifty of them! The whole car broke into producer it couldn’t have been better! very pleased with themselves and laughter. The lights came on, they We roared with laughter. chattered gaily. started reorganizing their wares, took We taxied back to the station and I found the nerve to ask my off the extra layers, waved various hoisted ourselves onto the 11.30PM neighbor what this was all about and he items, shouted prices and, bango, they train in total blackness. This train only explained that they were smuggling were in business! had third class cars that were jammed contraband purchased from ships to We arrived in Casablanca with our full. Some cars were jumping in a sell at the Casablanca market. If they ears ringing, grubby and tired. The party spirit of loud music and other were caught at the next stop by the train station did not seem to have any cars seemed a quiet jumble of douane, who did not always board the threatening types prowling around, no sleeping bodies. In the last car we night train, they would loose their loot ominous gangs, yet I sat alert waiting found three slivers of space on and go to jail. the hours for the very early morning different benches. At least we were in It became deathly quiet as we train to Marrakech. I assured the girls the same car. Things were calm until slowed for the stop. The lights went out that everything was fine and became two stops later when two huge Berber and we waited a very long time in the mom-pillow while they caught women squeezed through the end door breathless suspense. We heard the some winks. I still half expected some with large blanket wrapped bundles voices as they walked by saying that our disaster; we were easy to spot. The and what appeared to be truck tires car must be sleeping. I thought about floor mopper made us move and we and objects around their waists hidden what it must have been like for Anne found a marvelous café and had super under their clothes. The shapes were Frank. I was sweating bullets for these fresh croissants. It was finally getting really strange. They immediately characters and did not want to witness light and time to board. Yay, started yelling at the four men in the their wrath if they were caught, (I’d compartments with seats together! corner reserved for war veterans and already had a scary preview). The train (Continued on page 19) Page 6 Friends of Morocco Female Moroccan political leaders observe US elections
Five senior Moroccan female political East. The visitors discussed U.S. politics The final phase of the program brought leaders participated in "Woman as and policies one year after September the whole group together again in Political Leaders: U.S. Elections and 11, 2002. Reflecting the International Washington to observe the elections. Political Campaigns" an International Visitor Program's fundamental The same specialists who presented Visitor Program arranged by Meridian commitment to promoting a fully mutual an opening overview of the campaign International Center under State exchange of ideas and views, the visitors process met with the visitors again to were invited to speak to various help them synthesize the varied Department auspices for women audiences about women's roles in observations and insights which political activists and leaders from the government and politics in Arab brought back to Washington. Also, on Arab world. The participants included both appointed and elected countries and how they are changing. election eve, the visitors offered their government officials, aspiring evaluation of the program, a critique The program began with a stay of a little candidates for political office, activists that will assist in the planning of more than a week in Washington. At that similar future programs. for women's rights, civil society leaders time, the visitors were introduced to the and journalists from 17 Arab U.S. political system and the federal On Election Day, the members of the countries. structure of the American government. group went in small sub-groups to The Moroccan participants were: Dr There were visits with key governmental various polling places throughout the Nadia Bernoussi, Professor of institutions, executive and legislative. Greater Washington area to observe Constitutional Law and Institutions, This part of the program included a two- voting procedures. The full group National School of Administration in day elections workshop, conducted by gathered at Meridian International Rabat and founder of “The Moroccan Center later to observe the election Association of Political Science”; results on large-screen television. On hand were an academic or other Houria Cherif Haouat, Director of the specialist in elections to help the Center of Training Resources for visitors understand the significance of Trainers and Teachers and Member of the Party of the Unified Socialist Left reported developments. It will end (PGSU) a new coalition of political with the group's attendance at dinner parties for which she was leading the with Secretary of State Colin Powell, list of candidates for the September celebrating the iftar, or breaking of the Ramadan daylight fast, with other 27, 2002 elections; Latifa Maroufi, Moroccan leaders at a Friends of Morocco Senior Administrator of the National reception in Washington invited Muslims. Popular Union and President of the International Republican Institute Friends of Morocco president, Tim ALMASSAR (Moroccan League to and National Democratic Institute, to Resch, hosted a reception for the Reinforce Women’s Participation in visitors including representatives from Political Actions (www.massar-maroc. provide insights into the various the Embassy of Morocco to the US, org/index.asp); Aicha Al Makrini, elements of planning and implementing FOM leadership; the mayor of lawyer and member of Socialist and electoral campaigns. There was also a Riverdale, MD, Michael Herman; press Progressist Party; and Zahra Rachiq, meeting to discuss the role that Arab- Americans play in the political process. from the Voice of America and the Principal Administrator Popular Washington Times, and leaders of the Movement (MP) Party and President, At the mid-point of the program, the Moroccan-American community in the Women’s Action Association. participants divided into sub-groups of Washington, DC area. The visitors observed and discussed equal size to visit five communities aspects of elections and campaigns, where they observed political campaigns including electoral politics at the at the grassroots level for state, local, grassroots level, the organization of and U.S. congressional offices. They had political campaigns, successful close contact with party campaign officials, newspaper editors, and methods of recruiting and utilizing candidates as they explored the process volunteers to staff campaigns, devising by which Americans elect their and implementing effective public relations strategies, and establishing representatives. These "split" visits also links among the participants included hospitality and other activities themselves and between them and that served not only to provide recreation American women political leaders and but also to offer a glimpse into aspects others interested in promoting of America's diverse culture and society. participatory democracy in the Middle Friends of Morocco Membership Renewal/Application PLEASE NOTE: Prior to filling out this application, consider making a few copies to pass on to others. While many of our members are former Peace Corps Morocco volunteers, membership is open to anyone interested in the people, culture and development of Morocco.
DIRECTORY INFORMATION
Name: ______
Address: ______
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Home phone: ______Fax:______Email: ______
Current occupation: ______
Employer/school: ______
Experience in Morocco: (RPCVs and PC staffers list Peace Corps jobs. Academics: list field and research topics. Moroccans: list profession or field of study) ______
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Areas of interest: Check potential FOM activities in which you would be interested: _____ newsletter _____ local FOM chapter _____ speakers’ bureau _____ trips to Morocco _____ recruiting PCVs _____ putting RPCVs/Moroccans in touch _____ hospitality _____ reunion/gatherings _____ career/readjustment services _____ fund raising _____ development education _____ FOM officer position Other ______
We need your support for the Friends of Morocco Newsletter and other FOM activities. Membership categories appear below. Joint membership includes membership in FOM and the National Peace Corps Association (NPCA). NPCA members also receive the award-winning magazine World View, and the newsletter 3/1/61. NPCA and FOM dues and contributions are tax-deductible.
JOINT MEMBERSHIP IN FRIENDS OF MOROCCO AND NATIONAL PEACE CORPS ASSOCIATION Individual _____ $50.00 Multiple (two people, one address) _____ $65.00 MEMBERSHIP IN FRIENDS OF MOROCCO ONLY Individual _____ $15.00 Multiple (two people, one address) _____ $20.00
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P.O. Box 2579, Washington, DC 20013-2579 Friends of Morocco
We like to keep an update on our members. Please answer the following questions:
1. Briefly, what have you done since leaving Peace Corps? What are you doing now?
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P.O. Box 2579, Washington, DC 20013-2579 Friends of Morocco Page 9
(Continued from page 1) pottery. Thirty years ago, the pottery coincidently in Agadir for their in-service made a donation of its profits from the centers of Safi, Sale and Fes each had training. NPCA 40th Anniversary Bazaar. their own distinctive style and the Appreciation here to Barbara Durr, Lisa municipal style did not vary much. Like A trip to Tafrout allowed the group to Mirande-Lind and Mhamed El Kadi for the early Model T, one could get any meet with education volunteer Victoria these arrangements and the Peace color you wanted as long as it was Fletcher, who gave us a tour of the town Corps contacts throughout the trip. black. Today, however, the craft and and shared a slice of her life with us. tourist industry have fostered greater For many of us, it was a nice reminder FOM was presented with a banner diversity and development of new styles of the joys of connecting with a “Celebrating 40 years of Peace Corps and products. community and the affection that a in Morocco” prepared by the Dar community can give to a stranger. The Chabeb (Youth Center) kids, with the In Essouira, we had breakfast with subsequent morning in Tiznit allowed help of PCV Cynthia Kerr in Ait Ourir, El health volunteer, Anna Magarita the group to purchase significant Haouz –close to Marrakech to carry on Cebollero, based in Akermour. By volumes of silver and other crafts. our bus and for the celebration over adding wood products to the pottery the next year. and rugs already purchased started We took a one-day trip to Taroudant for filling up the bus. By the end of the trip a tour of El Boura farms, a large The next morning in Casablanca we most nooks and crannies of the bus commercial, irrigated orange- started our day with a visit to the were filled with new possessions and clementine farm managed by University Service d'Hémato-oncologie people were shopping for bags to carry of Minnesota alumnus Abdellah Pédiatrique de l'Hôpital 20 Aôut 1953 back their goods. Radouani. The operation also includes of Casablanca where we made another a modern tissue culture lab and an cash donation. Brenda Byrant Petta In Marrakech, in addition to the environment-controlled glass brought three suitcases of toys Menara , the Koutoubia Minaret, the greenhouse for mini-tuber production of gathered from her school which were Saadian Tombs, the Medina, Souks, the disease-free seed potatoes (first of its presented to the children there and in Majorelle Museum and the exhilarating kind in Morocco, reducing country’s Rabat. Drs. Mhamed Harif and S. Jamaa El Fna Square both during the dependence on imported seed), and a Benchekroun received the group and night and the day, we visited with breeding stable for Arabian horses. It provided a brief welcome and Michael Abdurrahman Fitzgerald of the was also an occasion for a gathering of introduction, describing the activities American Language Center of the University of Minnesota Alumni of the ward. The Director of the Marrakesh. It was opening night of the Chapter of Morocco. It was clear from Hospital expressed his appreciation via fall quarter and therefore we had the discussions that Moroccans who have a telephone conference call. pleasure of watching students arriving studied in the US have retained similar for the 17 classes to be taught that affection for and connections with the Most heart-wrenching was discussion evening. Hormones were heavy in the US as have Americans who have lived in of triage among the children, most air. FOM list serve manager, Dave Morocco. A terrific Moroccan feast of families not having health insurance Keiser (Safi 98-00) is now a teacher at mechoui and couscous was served. and generally unable to handle the the Center, and, after class, he joined high cost of interventions, let alone part of the group for drinks at our hotel. We rushed back to Agadir that day for a experimental, unproven procedures. On our last night in Marrakesh we went meeting the Mohammed Gharrabi, Wali There was, however, a success wall to the Moroccan cultural extravaganza, de la region Souss Massa Draa with photographs of children where Chez Ali, where Hassan’s connections (subsequently covered in the 10/15/02 their cancer was in remission. For got us terrific seats for both the meal edition of Le Matin) to describe our some children, it was simply a and the entertainment. journey, the impact of Morocco on our question of easing the pain on the lives and Peace Corps service in his road to death. In Rabat, there was a In Agadir, we were joined by Marilee region. The meeting had been arranged rest house for a parent, but in McClintock who entered Peace Corps with assistance of the Moroccan Casablanca, families also needed to as a small business development Ambassador to the US, Aziz Mekouar. find their own housing as they coped volunteer after a 30 plus year career in with the illness of their children. At the urban planning, local government, real While part of the tour group returned to closing ceremony, after having visited estate development, logistics and the US at the end of the communal the cancer ward, along with the international business. She became so portion, most participants continued donation of Friends of Morocco from enamored of Morocco and Moroccans their time in Morocco for a couple of the sale proceeds at the NPCA 40th that she is making her permanent more days. S. Louise Hoare (Rabat 90- Anniversary Bazaa, tour participants home in Agadir. Nick Petit, Small 91) and at 80 the oldest participant, passed the hat and more than doubled Business Development volunteer joined continued on to Rabat and Fes to visit the FOM donation. us for a dinner, and Tim Resch and with friends; Linda and Tara Whittington Mary Garrison met with a dozen mid- (Continued on page 10) Our next stop was Safi, famed for its term environmental volunteers Page 10 Friends of Morocco
(Continued from page 9) former school. Polly Scoville (63-65) special needs and subsequent travel dallied in Casablanca with an adopted visited with friends in Rabat, Tangier for participants continuing onward family; Jabeen Bhatti, the Washington and Fes and participated, along with travel in Morocco after the main Times reporter accompanying the group, Hassan Samrhouni, in the swearing-in group trip. went on to see the desert and to meet of the 2002 class of volunteers. with female legislative leaders; Dan Cahill (Kenitra 68-70) and John Kopec (Kenitra Travel arrangements were made by 68-72) journeyed to Kenitra to visit the Casablanca Travel and Tours. Owner school where they taught and where their and FOM member Hassan Samrhouni student was now the Director; Bob accompanied the group and was Zambrano and Mike Smith traveled to instrumental in dealing with glitches Tangier to meet with fellow volunteer such as delayed luggage, press Richard Netherlin (Ouezzane 63-68) and interviews for the group and contacts now Director of the Tangier American for the Washington Times reporter Language Center and to Tetouan to his traveling with us, and coordinating
Tour Northern Morocco with Friends of Morocco October 5 to 15, 2003 Building on the successes of the English Language Training Center and interest. The Mountain tour is 2001 and 2002 Friends of Morocco view riads under rehabilitation. A trip to planned for October 5-15, 2003, just tours combining visits to serving Peace Ifrane and Azrou would include a visit to before the start of Ramadan and Corps volunteers, development activities the English language, Al Akhawayn including the Columbus Day Monday and general tourism, Friends of Morocco University. From there we would visit holiday. It will cost about $1300 air is searching for interest in a tour of Meknes, the ruins of Volubius and the and land package from New York on northern Morocco. The tour would arrive city of Moulay Idriss. Tour would then Royal Air Maroc. First 25 persons for Casablanca and depart to Tangier via continue to Rabat to meet with Peace rented coach, guide, two meals per Lixus. In Tangier, visits would include the Corps staff and exit out of Casablanca day, 4 and 5 star hotels. Air only at a Tangier American Legation to hear about visiting the Hassan II Mosque and lunch reduced price will also be available Medina restoration and visit to the at a women’s shelter. with fixed October 5 departure and Museum of Moroccan Arts in the Dar El We will probably offer also an optional return dates. Travel services Makhzen. Is there interest in the Forbes opportunity for an airline only – make would be by Casablanca Travel and Museum? We would then go one to your own land travel itinerary and Tours, which has served us very well Tetouan with possible visit to deaf arrangements - option that will depart the last two years. The trip is still in school, then to Chefchaouen, Ketama, the same date taking advantage of the the conceptualization stage. A where we would look at kif substitution group discount. Return travel date volunteer general coordinator would activities, Targuist and to Al Houceima to flexible according to Royal Air Maroc be nice to have. Actual activities and examine the tourist industry schedules. More than half the itinerary are open for nominations. transformation. Travel would then be via participants in 2002 extended their time Expressions of interest to should Taounate to Fes, where we visit the in Morocco to visit personal sites of be sent to
The Morocco – Modern Connection: Berber Carpets and Twentieth Century Design
Brooke Pickering with an introduction by W. Russell Pickering
Saturday, January 18th, 2003
The Textile Museum, Washington DC 2320 “S” Street NW Washington DC 20016 (202) 667-0441
Tribal weaving meets western architecture and design. An introduction to the major types of Moroccan knotted pile carpets and how twentieth designers incorporated them into the modernist aesthetic. Interiors by Le Corbusier, Alvar Alto, Frank Lloyd Wright, and Charles and Ray Eames will be discussed. Guests and members are encouraged to bring material from their collections. Friends of Morocco Page 11
Book Reviews and Other New Books Set In or About Morocco The Free Woman by Carol began his quest by choosing the remote good-bye." Malt, ETHOS Publishing, spiritual center of Boujad, Morocco, for (Bob Drake was a Peace Corps 2002 his two-year sojourn as a teacher of volunteer in Morocco 83-85) (reviewed by Judith English-as-Foreign Language. Moran's Proctor) benign commencement in Boujad was Morocco: The Collected The Free Woman is replete with episodes familiar to all Traveler: An Inspired based on the folk legend surviving MRPCVs: the competitive sport Anthology and Travel of a 'Pirate Queen' who of international alms-giving, the daily Resource by Barrie saved the city of Tetouan in the 16th exercise of street-urchin dodging, the Kerper, Crown Publishing century. The author spend four years natural simplicity of Moroccan plumbing, Group, December 2001 researching and writing this historical the nearly religious salvation of novel -- finding that the heroine, discovering rock 'n' roll on the radio and This book features daughter of the Emir of Chaouen, was the humbling humor of the national pet- distinguished writers, such as Paul named Hura . . . literally the free amoebae experience. Finally, the Bowles, Barbara Grizzuti Harrison, woman. western world will come to understand Michael Mewshaw, Peter Theroux, From her hasty marriage to the that there is much more to the traditional Florence Fabricant, Nancy R. founder of Tetouan, to her leadership Peace Corps experience than simply Newhouse, Jeffrey Tayler, Nancy when he becomes ill, her desperate pitching a tent and digging a well. Harmon Jenkins, Christopher attempts to defend the city, After succumbing to the realities Petkanas, Patricia Storace, Suzy imprisonment by the Portuguese, of The Eastern Way, Moran turned to the Gershman, Michael Kimmelman, eventual marriage to the Sultan of Fes, task-at-hand by absorbing himself in the Dorothy Kalins, Naomi Barry, and the story is fast paced and riveting - - duties of a teacher. It seemed that the Peggy Knickerbocker, who share all 304 pages of it. All the more so mechanics of the profession would be seductive insights into Morocco’s because it is based on truth. To assist sufficiently satisfying until Moran legendary cuisine, restaurants, and the reader, a map of Morocco and a completed his first school year. On hospitality; the Imperial Cities of Fez, glossary are included. summer project in Northern Ireland, his Marrakech, Meknes, and Rabat; the This is a well-written book, filled path is crossed by one certain nubile, treasures of Tangier; the cosmopolitan with information about the history and red-headed, alabaster-skinned Scottish atmosphere of Casablanca; and the customs of the Berbers and Arabs of woman who inserts a large wooden ladle less-traveled routes through Morocco.. . one visits the cities, into Michael's latent primal pot and stirs mountains, valleys, and the Sahara. villages and souks of Tetouan, Fes, with all the gusto of a gigantic grinning (description from Barnes and Noble Rabat/Sale. It's been the choice of Gertrude. Unable to avoid a clash with website) several book clubs here in Florida, and destiny, the two of them generate a I think members of FOM will find it pleasing procreative performance in the Orphans of Islams: Family, fascinating. Even those who know shadow of the Atlas Mountains. Fires Abandonment and Secret little about the rich, colorful history of blazing, they seduce each other until all Adoption in Morocco by Morocco will find this book captures of the firewood in Boujad is consumed. Jamila Bargach, Rowman and holds their attention. The embers lay sparkling in the moonlit and Littlefield Publishers, It can be ordered from the streets. October 2001 publisher at [email protected]. Relationships such as this merit the Bargach, who did her net or national bookstores. immortalization they attain for the fieldwork in her native (Judith Proctor is the owner of the J. benefit of the lasting reflections they cast Morocco (for a doctorate in cultural Proctor Gallery in Seaside, FL) upon the pool of life. Through the re- anthropology at Rice University in examination of the images, a curious Houston; she now teaches social Younger Than That Now: A reader will find lessons to be taken for sciences at the National School of Peace Corps Volunteer their own life. What is life without the Architecture in Morocco), attempts to Remembers Morocco by memory of a well-learned lesson? situate the widespread practice of Michael Moran, Full Court Place this book upon your nightstand child abandonment and customs of Press, 1994 or hide it under your cushion of the adoption within the mores of Moroccan (reviewed by Bob Drake) couch. Pick it up when you want to society. Her work is complex and multi- "I was the one volunteer," reflect on your personal experience. layered, tempering the stories of Michael Moran states in Enjoy it one chapter at a time, in private women and children gained from Younger Than That Now, "that the places during the time you reserve for numerous interviews with current Peace Corps knew least about." In yourself. As sure as the sun rises in the theoretical approaches to search of the most authentic Peace east, this book will all-too-soon be ethnography. Corps experience possible, Moran finished. It will be "like kissing a mirror (review from booknews.com) Page 12 Friends of Morocco
Morocco at the Movies - #2 “Morocco” By Dan Cahill (Kenitra 68-70) "Morocco" was Dietrich's American makes it all the harder to take the debut and the first of six films directed over-the-dunes ending very seriously, Jaded rich men in white-tie, paired by Von Sternberg at Paramount. Sadly, despite the brilliant staging and with flamboyant dames in sequined after these 30's near-masterpieces, Dietrich's total immersion in her evening gowns, cheering for a neither of their careers ever seemed so passion. She conveys so much ultra- decadent cabaret chanteuse who incandescent . But this film helped cool on-screen heat that she doesn't herself is garbed in a tuxedo. Such is create Dietrich as a an icon of modern need a smoldering sax solo to tell us the ambiance of an elegant boite de sexuality: independent, willful, she's sexy. It's probably no coincidence nuit which is also populated by wildly aggressive, and ultimately vulnerable. that the Hays Code, Hollywood's first gesticulating Arabs in turbans... She uses her legs and her langour to lay censorship guidelines, also came into Morocco? Maybe not your Morocco or the basic foundation of a character who effect in 1930, although it would not my Morocco, but it's the Morocco of be strictly enforced until four years "Morocco", Josef Von Sternberg's 1930 later. pipe-dream of a land so exotic that it And in a metaphoric way, this robs you of reason. leads us back to how "Morocco" Von Sternberg's previous film was invokes the real Morocco. Crass as this "The Blue Angel", which rocketed commercial fantasy is, there is a Marlene Dietrich in shockingly gartered parallel depth of passion that most of stockings to world attention. Her Lola- us feel about the place to this day. To Lola so enraptured Emil Jannings's those of us who lived there, and are bourgeois professor Rath, that his only still reading about it at this very end could be total humiliation. Now it's moment, Morocco has cast its spell on her turn to be humiliated by an us beyond rescue. We respond to undeserving Cary Cooper, playing a images of Moorish archways, veiled Foreign Legionnaire who can't muster background women, swirling plumes of a modicum of emotion. She begins the cigarette smoke, and shadowy story as a woman-who's-seen-it-all on a shuttered windows much like everyone steamer bound for fog-bound Mogador else. The link between danger and (aka Essaouira, but don't waste any changes by opening herself to a passion romance, risk and intoxication, triggers time looking for landmarks in this so consuming that it changes her life. a primal response: take us back! No California-bound production). At the Gary Cooper just doesn't seem up to matter how hokey the pretense, how railing, she's approached by French the task of playing a fully rounded French phoney the extras in dark makeup, we smoothie Adolphe Menjou, perfectly Legionnaire, but then there isn't a lot in yearn once again to lay it all on the line cast as the man-your-mother-always- the script to suggest that the character in the most seductive environment on warned-you-about. She spurns him has much depth. From the perspective of Earth. quickly enough, but in 1930 no one 2002, he comes across as immature and ever took that for anything but pathetically fearful of women. Like most DVD Note: Alas, there is no DVD encouragement. A three-way intrigue Peter Pans, he is happy to pluck ripe version, and none scheduled soon. ensues, ensuring the audience that fruits from the tree of sensuality, but he Console yourself with "The Blue Angel", overwrought unhappiness lurks on the can't see the need to cultivate a flower reported to be beautifully restored, and horizon. that simply needs a little love. This rent "Morocco" on VHS.
The New Moroccan Ambassador to the U.S.— Aziz Mekouar Ambassador Aziz Mekouar is the Mekouar has been Ambassador of Cooperation of Morocco. newly-appointed Ambassador for Morocco to Italy, Malta and Albania and Mr. Mekouar is the author of Morocco in the USA 2002. The Permanent Representative to FAO. Since several theses and studies, including: Ambassador Aziz was born in Fes, November 1999, he was also Chairman studies and analyses on the situation Morocco in 1950. Married with one of the FAO Finance Committee. in Angola, 30 Years of Italian Domestic child, he holds a degree from the Before his appointment in Rome, Mr. Policy, 30 Years of Italian Foreign Higher School of Commerce (HEC), Mekouar was Ambassador of Morocco to Policy, studies on the Asia-dollar and Paris, and speaks Arabic, English, Portugal from 1993 to 1999, and prospective impact on the French, Italian, Portuguese and Ambassador to Angola from 1986 to development of South-East Asia and a Spanish. 1993. Previously he held positions at the thesis on the fisheries sector in Since September 1999, Mr. Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Argentina. Page 13 Friends of Morocco
Moroccans Vote in Elections Billed Fairest Ever By Gilles Trequesser civil servants. Islamist group refusing to take part, RABAT, Sept 27 (Reuters) - Moroccans But Youssoufi argued the only its ideological ally the moderate voted on Friday in a general election government did govern and parliament Islamist Justice and Development the government promised would be the did legislate. "It's a two-headed executive Party (PJD) is contesting the polls. fairest ever and which should greatly power, like in France...even if the king With 224 candidates in 56 of the increase the number of women in makes some appointments," he said. 91 constituencies, the PJD hoped to at parliament. King Mohammed, 39, has earned a least double its 14 seats. The vote is the first since King reputation of a reform-minded, modern As part of its anti-fraud measures, Mohammed came to the throne in monarch with some bold moves that the government has purchased 1999 and is generally seen as a litmus shook the tightly controlled apparatus 55,000 bottles of indelible ink for test of the young monarch's cautious inherited from his father King Hassan, fingerprints to spot someone moves towards greater democracy. whose autocratic rule lasted for 38 attempting to vote twice. In a break from tradition in this years. To help illiterate voters, all parties Muslim nation of 30 million, women- He has let prominent exiled political have adopted logos on ballot papers. only national lists will ensure that at opponents return home, eased The USFP chose a purple rose, least 30 women become members of censorship and allowed inquiries into others a car, a horse or a key. For the parliament, up from only two at past human rights abuses, including the Alliance of Liberties it is a clock while present. torture and disappearance of hundreds the Popular Movement opted for an With an unprecedented media of political opponents in the 1960s and ornamental dagger. campaign on radio, television and the 1970s. Internet. the government of socialist Prime Minister Abderrahmane el SLOW PACE OF CHANGE Youssoufi has spared no effort to Diplomats said Morocco was convince Moroccans they should cast changing, but at its own pace. their ballot to foster democracy. "Forget Western constitutional "Moroccans felt cheated in all past monarchies like Spain, comparisons electoral contests," Youssoufi, 78, told don't apply," an Arab diplomat said. Reuters on the eve of the polls. "Our "However, what's happening with aim is to organise real elections, these elections is unprecedented in the untarnished ones." Arab world," he added. With unemployment officially at 12 POSSIBLE LOW TURNOUT percent -- 20 percent says the Turnout in the last parliamentary opposition -- illiteracy at 61 percent of elections in 1997 was a low 58 the electorate and more than five million percent amid allegations of vote- living under the poverty line, or with the buying and fraud. equivalent of $1 a day, Morocco does But voter apathy after a dull and not lack challenges. short 12-day electoral campaign and Some 14 million voters are disillusionment about a political class registered to elect 325 members of the seen as corrupt and aloof did not lower house of parliament for a five-year guarantee a higher turnout this time. term. Some 5,873 candidates are "I didn't even register, what's in it representing a record 26 parties. for me, what change?" said 21-year-old Results are not expected until early Mohamed Khamri as he sold on Saturday. contraband cigarettes in the narrow Political analysts say a single alleyways of the Rabat medina. parliamentary majority is unlikely to Western-style parliamentary emerge because of the high number of democracy is not entrenched in parties and the fragmentation of power Morocco where the general perception on the crowded political scene. is that real power lies in the hands of While Youssoufi's Socialist Union of the king and a small group of close Popular Forces (USFP), which leads a advisers. seven-party government coalition, was The monarch appoints the prime expected to do reasonably well -- it held minister but also traditionally key 57 seats in the outgoing chamber -- all ministers, such as for defence, foreign eyes were on the Islamists. affairs and justice, together with top With the country's most radical Page 14 Friends of Morocco News From Morocco Morocco Unveils New Coalition Morocco prison fire kills at least 49 charter jumbo jets to fly guests to the (from the BBC World Service) inmates Moroccan city from Paris and New King Mohammed of Morocco has 11/01/2002 York. announced the line-up of the new RABAT, Morocco (AP) - A fire erupted Details surrounding the exclusive coalition government, but there are no early Friday at an overcrowded prison, event are still thin on the ground, with posts for the Islamic party that trebled killing 49 inmates and seriously injuring a spokesperson for Diddy telling the its vote in September elections. at least eight other people, authorities newspaper, "I can't say anything about The 31-strong cabinet under Prime said. it - I have to respect the King's wishes". Minister Driss Jettou maintains a The fire started about 1:30 a.m. at similar balance to previous the Sidi Moussa jail in coastal El Jadida, Morocco's date production forecasted governments, with the Socialist Union about 110 miles south of the capital city to rise by two percent of Forces for Progress sharing power Rabat, the official MAP news agency Oct 29, 2002 (Al-Bawaba via COMTEX) with the nationalist Istiqlal Party. said. About 40 inmates were injured, Moroccan date producers are The Islamic party, Justice and some from smoke inhalation, in what forecasting a two percent harvest Development, has no cabinet posts, was believed to be the worst fire ever at growth this season amounting to despite winning 42 seats to become a Moroccan prison. The injured were 33,000 tons of the fruit, reported the the third-largest party in parliament. taken to the regional Mohammed V Ministry of Agriculture. Three key ministers from the last Hospital or to a burn unit in Casablanca, The majority of production is government keep their posts. about 56 miles away, the news agency expected from the southern regions of Mohamed Benaissa remains Minister said. the North African state. for Foreign Affairs; Fatallah Oualalou Deputy Interior Minister Fouad Ali Al A good date palm can produce continues as Finance Minister and Himma told The Associated Press that 300 to 600 pounds of dates per year, Mohamed El-Yazghi retains the post the cause of the fire was not immediately and will produce for 100 years or responsible for territorial development. known and that an investigation was more. Narrow victory under way. An earlier report said the Moroccan date consumption The most significant change is the cause was electrical nature. stands at three kilos per inhabitant replacement of Justice Minister Omar The Atlantic Coast prison was built in nationwide and at 15 kilos per Azziman with another Socialist, lawyer 1994 for 1,000 prisoners but holds more inhabitant in the areas of production. - Mohamed Bouzoubaa. than 1,300. (menareport.com) In the election of 27 September, Moroccan King Mohammed VI the Socialist Union narrowly won the expressed condolences to the families of National Mutual Aid, Britain's Save the largest number of seats - 50 compared the victims. Children Fund Sign Partnership to the 48 secured by Istiqlal. Outgoing Prime Minister Convention Mr Jettou, 57, was named prime Abderrahmane Youssoufi and other 11/1/2002 minister in October, replacing the Moroccan Cabinet ministers were Morocco's "National Mutual Aid," and Socialist Abderrahmane Youssoufi. traveling to the site to lead an inquiry the British "Save the Children Fund" The prime minister, a successful into the fire and organize assistance for signed in Rabat Wednesday a businessman known for his negotiating the families of the victims. partnership convention. skills, has been given a mandate for The fire was limited to one prison The fund will donate equipment rapid economic and social change by building, but smoke filled adjoining and raw material to orthopedic the reform-minded king. blocks, causing an unspecified number workshops of training centers for King Mohammed said he hoped of inmates to die of asphyxiation, reports handicapped children in Casablanca Mr Jettou's team would show said. Others were killed while trying and Khemissat (Rabat province). "economic efficiency based on frantically to escape the fire. The two bodies agreed to enhance democratic legitimacy" and told the their cooperation to provide the new ministers to "answer the economic P. Diddy’s Royal Appointment necessary help for handicapped and social expectations of the Fri 1 Nov 2002 09:50 children. citizens". The King of Morocco is to host a birthday For the first time, a junior minister party for hip-hop entrepreneur, Sean 'P has been put in charge of teaching and Diddy' Combs, according to reports. fighting illiteracy in a country where King Mohammed VI is said to footing nearly half the population of 30 million the bill for the $1 million five-day event, cannot read and write. due to be held in Marrakech next month. Urban unemployment tops 20% and According to the New York Post, one Moroccan in five lives on less than Combs - who celebrates his 33rd $1 a day. birthday on November 4 - plans to Page 15 Friends of Morocco Our Man in Morocco The following is the latest dispatch from since we all sworn in last year. but find that I do get the gist of the Kimeo Carr, a current PCV in Morocco conversation and can respond. It was nice to see that some of the Sometimes I find it easier to say October 26, 2002 suggestions that we made from last year, something in Arabic than in French, As of October 23, I will have been a were incorporated into this year's PST. and sometimes I find that when I Peace Corps Volunteer for one year. I During the Final Commitment speech speak French, the Arabic slips in... am now officially a second year that the Country Director gave, some weird. Oh well, albeit a tad cheeky, volunteer commencing my final year in small changes brought things to a focus my original goals for the Peace Corps the corps. For the past three weeks, I and got people on the right track. The were to lose weight and learn a new have been busy helping administration current volunteer community believes language. with the new volunteers who arrived in that this group has benefited from a Morocco on August 15, 2002. I am glad complete community based training My original goals have since to report that all 49 sworn in on October program that will help them complete expanded to my just being the best 24, 2002. It was a wonderful event. I their service. Barring any unforeseen Peace Corps Volunteer that I can be... do have to say that upon hearing the activity in the political arena, we should I have come to the conclusion that words of the oath, repeated, did bring a all be able complete our service. you get out of your service the same tear or two. To me, it actually had more effort that you put into it. Depending As Ramadan looms around the corner, I meaning the second time around upon what sector of service you am prepared to endure another period of hearing them take the oath. volunteer in, your experience will not fasting. I am kind of looking forward to be totally the same as the next Let's talk numbers. From the original it, but would like to get away at the same volunteer or the previous volunteer. 82 volunteers that arrived with me in time too. At least this time I am going Your service will depend entirely upon Morocco last year on August 15, 2001, into Ramadan prepared. Personally, I your attitude, what you bring to the there are only 47 of us left in country. feel well. I am beginning to get back into table, so to speak. Granted we have In my sector, Small Business the grove of working on my projects and the occasional rocks thrown, the petty Development (SBD), of the original 14, teaching English at the vocational theft during some of our host stays, there are only eight of left. This past school. Now that I have finished a grant the constant verbal harassment of weekend, more than half of my fellow for one cooperative, I am now working on female volunteers, stomach maladies SBDers, four to be exact, where in Fez two grants: one to purchase computers, with occasional diarrhea and the all to welcome the new volunteers into the yes, I finally found an organization that too common 'staring' while walking in fold. Thinking about last year, it was can help, and one to purchase materials the street. We still manage to endure kind of surreal, many of us did not and equipment for the button making and continue. I guess that this is all a imagine that we would make it through cooperative. part of being a Peace Corps volunteer. the year. Then again, that's life in the My Arabic is still a work in progress. I Kimeo Peace Corps. now have another tutor who uses French
There were volunteers from other to teach me Arabic. It has help to increase my fluency in French as well as sectors in Fez helping this past weekend. Many of them were from my teach me new words in Moroccan Arabic. Pre-Service Training (PST) of last year. His English is great so we can Upon seeing each other we all become communicate easier when I do not excited because this was the first time understand. I still find it difficult to that many of us had seen each other understand people who speak very fast
A Message from Omar the Shawarma Man Hello, word out there is to publish it in the FOM Omar Alimam Newsletter. Restaurant le Broodjest I am a former PCV in Morocco (96-98) Here is what he said: 78 Ave. Allal Ben Abdallah and currently back in Morocco as a Rabat, Morocco Fulbright student researcher. The A Letter from Omar to all Peace Corps Tel: 037-70-53-70 other day I was in Rabat at the Volunteers Cell: 061-10-19-02 Shwarma place around the corner Where ever you are in the world, hallo from the PC office and Omar, the from Omar, the owner of the Chaorma Thanks, Sudanese owner, gave me this letter. place in Rabat Morocco. Laura Burnham It seems to me the best way to get the Page 16 Friends of Morocco Veteran Peace Corps Morocco Staffers Remember Four Peace Corps Morocco staff family where no girl works outside her UN missions on TV, we often bring up members were honored for their long home, and living in a conservative the old good memories with my family. service to the Peace Corps at the patriarchal society in the 70s where 40+1 NPCA conference in June . The moving to the capital, being economic In the secretary training we were a following are their stories: independent, and living by oneself for a group of seven girl-candidates, and our girl is a big challenge!! Besides, moving trainers were the Education APCD and Daouia Belmokadem from a country-side-like small town to the PCV Carolyn Spicer. During the Hello Friends of Morocco, modern exciting capital was something training, we visited the Embassy, the to worry about for our families. We told Ambassador’s Office, and few offices As I got your email from Lisa, the first Carolyn about it, and as a PCV who is organizations. We took our courses in thing that came to my mind is how I understands the Moroccan culture, she an apartment in Rabat, where we were entered to Peace Corps Office. In promised to help us preparing our food and inviting PC staff 1971 at the end of Moroccan from time to time. At the end of the Academic year and by the end of One day, Carolyn went to our little town training, we had an exam and five of Peace Corps fiscal year, my cousin told “Berrechid”, which is near Casablanca, us passed. I , and another candidate me that an American from Peace to meet our parents and try to convince from Rabat, Fatiha Zerqali, had the Corps visited her school in Casablanca them. It was a courageous step, and looking for girls to do the secretary something I will never forget. It was studies, and encouraged me to apply. proud of PCV Carolyn to take it seriously Both my cousin and I took the test in and dare to tackle quite a ‘taboo’ issue Casablanca administered by PCV, at with our families. Convincing a that time, Carolyn Spicer at one of the conservative family in a setting is no hotels in Casablanca and we finally simple process. It takes more than a passed and got accepted. simple talking, so Carolyn was smart and told my father that my cousin and I will Taking the test wasn’t an issue for us, have six months training in Rabat and we simply consider it just like all the that we will stay in the PC Director’s other school subject quizzes we often residence. Guess who was the Country take at school, but after passing the Director at that time! Mr. Richard Daouia (far left) at her daughter’s test things took a serious turning for Holbrook. Our families felt reassured birthday that their girls will be taken care of and in good hands. In addition, we might be chance to stay and work with Peace working with an organization that works Corps in Rabat. Another girl was for the benefits of the country and placed at First National City Bank in Volunteers who devote their time and Casablanca and two at the American energy for the development of Morocco. Consulate in Casablanca. It’s for a good cause, after all. In fact, convincing our families was the hardest Since then I stayed with Peace Corps, test we passed, and we became the a few years later I met Ahmed and got pioneer-girls in our families who made it married, and I have 3 daughters to work in the capital. (Fatine, the oldest, 24 who is studying medicine; the second Asmae is 22 and My cousin and I moved to Rabat and is studying to be an engineer; the third stayed with Mr. Holbrooke’s family, and is Ibtissame 17 , she will take her two other girls from Casablanca stayed baccalaureate exam this year and God with Carolyn. The Holbrookes had 2 boy know what she will do). Fatine got Daouia and PCV Carolyn Spicer circa children, David and Anthony. They were married in the summer 2000 and has 1972. cute and we got used to them. A couple got a four months & half old boy months later Richard Holbrooke had to Houssam. I am now a grandmother!!!! my cousin and I. The issue was double leave PC before the end of the training, sided, first is convincing our parents to so we continued to stay with his This is a short story of how I joined work at an early age, and second was successor Mr. Richard Reid. We spent a Peace Corps, and how a PCV decision to move to Rabat and live by great time with the two Country to talk to my family, and convince them ourselves!! Directors’ families and experienced has changed the course of my life. I memorable cross-cultural exchanges. often think what my life would have Coming from a middle class rural Now when we see Richard Holbrooke on (Continued on page 17) Page 17 Friends of Morocco
wave/fashion of hippies, and Morocco became very popular in the PC was also quite fresh from community as a walking resource in Independence. Though there is a gap Djellaba. between the developed and developing countries it wasn’t that Years later my English proficiency wide. improved, as I took evening classes, and I started learning about my work The PST for the new trainees used to and PC, and got promoted “shwiya take place in the US. Six months later, b’shwiya” . I am at present the after I joined, PC decided to do the PST General Services Officer and Cashier. in Tangiers in the old American Abdou and APCD Lisa Lind at the PC Legation Museum. What I appreciate most in Peace Corps Morocco staff Christmas party –2001 is the opportunities I had to visit At that time I used to play Basket ball volunteers’ sites and see the valuable been without that secretary training; but with one of Rabat teams, Moghreb work they do with their counterparts one thing is sure, is that my family would R’batti. I still remember one Saturday I and communities. In the 70s and early never have let me work and live in Rabat traveled with the team to Tangiers to 80s some Volunteers got immersed in by myself in the 70s. play against the local team. That was the local cultural to the point that fell my first visit to Tangier, and our team in love with of Moroccan traditional manager took us to old medina. Half music like Hmadcha, Darquaoua and Abdou Lanaaya: way through the medina, I heard Jilala. Some volunteers were absorbed someone calling my name behind us, by this type of Music. When I joined Peace Corps, I was a my fellows “who’s that tourist calling young kid! and now I am at the verge of you?”. At first, I didn’t recognize him, Many Peace Corps volunteers have retirement with gray hair, but I have no and as he comes closer, I realized he’s given and spent much of their time regrets. I have started working with PCV and PST trainer John Paulas. He and energy their energy helping the Peace Corps since 1971, just a decade started talking to me in good Moroccan population in the rural villages in after JFK had the brightest idea of Arabic and told me about the PST, and digging wells, repairing water pumps starting PC and sending Americans invited me to the old American for villages, building latrines, and overseas to serve in developing getting special funds for tree planting. countries. Some volunteers have helped in creating small cooperatives in various At that time Richard Holbrook was the small projects Country Director in Morocco. Richard was a very active manager. He Thousands of Peace Corps Volunteers impressed me, as a young Moroccan at have served the Kingdom in various that time, with his enthusiasm, open- programs. This organization has a mindedness. I am not surprised many great impact on Moroccans. I hope it years later to see him heading UN extend its services to the Saharan missions. My job was to handle too provinces once the conflict is settled, I many little tasks, which involved office am pretty sure there will be a lot to do mail, purchasing and driving. Peace Country Director Richard Reed, Daouia there In Shaa Allah!. Corps had almost 80 volunteers: TEFL, (middle) and Abdou (far right) Agriculture, Volunteers working for the ministry of youth and other volunteers Legation. My basketball fellows were working for the women foyer teaching amazed by his language skills and Najia Ben Bella and helping women in the small villages cultural understanding. Starting work with Peace Corps back in how to sew and generate small income. 1981 was a pure coincidence, but It was small program at the time. That was the first time in my life I staying with the organization for over heard of a place called legation. When 20 years is not a coincidence. When I started working with PC, my job we were visiting the building, we came consisted of handling quite few tasks: across a Moroccan who will then be a I am Najia Ben Bella, Executive office mail, purchase and driving. I had PST cross-culture and language Assistant and SPA Coordinator - I first no idea what PC is all about, and it took instructor for many years, Mohamed heard about Peace Corps when I was me sometime to figure out what Najmi. Mr Najmi has written many working at the Catholic Relief Services. Volunteers do and how beneficial their Arabic Moroccan dialectal manuals for One of my colleagues advised me to work is to Morocco. In the 70s Peace Corps to be used for Trainings apply for a Program Assistant position development work means little to me as for the coming trainees. Mr. Najmi (Continued on page 18) all frontiers were open, there was the Page 18 Friends of Morocco
(Continued from page 17) been a tradition that would be Peace Corps/Morocco is a champion in Peace Corps. Knowing very little about Volunteers deliver a brief speech in to me, it survived a couple most trying PC, I applied with very little interest. I Moroccan Arabic, Tamazight, and times in its history. During the Gulf was surprised and at the same time Tashlheit at the swearing ceremonies. War we had to evacuate the happy to be selected for the interview I can always read signs of amazement Volunteers out of country . I will never and then to join. “Wow what a new and wonder on the faces of officials, forget those moments. Some adventure for the single young girl I was”. and guests who attend the Volunteers were unwilling to leave, ceremonies. What often amazes us is they felt secure in their communities, I had quite few questions about Peace their capacity to adapt to the told us stories on how their neighbors Corps when I first started, but the one Moroccan life style and culture. I feel came to check on them, to make sure that I was truly curious about was how thrilled to see volunteers in Jellaba, they were safe and ensure them that American Volunteers who came from a and in Moroccan attire. they were at home. Most Volunteers developed country, with abundant felt a shame to leave their supplies, freedom and access to In Peace Corps I discovered communities abruptly without a luxurious items get to adapt to life in development work at the grass root farewell to their friends, neighbors, counterparts and the people they lived with for a good period of time. The Volunteers were in tears at the airport. But it was no surprise, when Peace Corps decided to come back after the Gulf War, to see most Volunteers who left the country reenter it again.
Another difficult moment, not only to Peace Corps/Morocco, but to the whole world community, was September 11th. I admire the Volunteers courage to choose to stay in Morocco, away from their families, and loved ones, and remain faithful to their oath when their country was targeted. Right after the event, we started getting e-mails of sympathy from RPCVs in US, and the tragedy didn’t change what they think of Morocco, and its people. They went to schools, and meet with communities in their towns, and States to explain to L to R: EMA Regional Director Judy Van Rest, PC Morocco Director Barbara Durr, them that not all Muslims are PC Director Gaddi Vazquez and Najia Ben Bella—2002 fundamentalists, and not all Arabs are terrorists. RPCVs showed them rural Morocco where even my fellow level, dedication of staff and pictures of the weddings, and other citizens find hard to live in. Though life Volunteers, but also fun. I worked ceremonies they attend with their host conditions have now somehow improved under the supervision of five Country families in Morocco, and told them in some rural areas since I first joined Directors (Baudouin de Marcken, stories of the hospitality of the people PC: like access to food supplies, David Fredrick, Darcy Neill, Ellen in their sites. electricity, and health centers, I still pull Paquette, and I am at present with my hat off to all PCVs who choose to live Barbara Durr) who offered good In Peace Corps/Morocco I have seen and serve in remote rural areas. example of guidance, dynamism, courage overcome fear and dedication devotion, and willingness to make a win over prejudice. It’s a champion of PC has left a good impact in Morocco. change. hope. The Volunteers served in almost all provinces, and the organization is well What I cherish most is the friendship of known in a good number of the Directors I work with. I got to know communities. We are often amazed with their families, shared their good stories the Volunteers ability to learn our native and enjoyable moments, and also went languages, speak Berber with a good through some tough times at work. fluency that I myself can’t do. It has Page 19 Friends of Morocco Strengthening Legal Literacy of Moroccan Women
The International Human Rights organizations and development hrlawgroup.org/country_programs/ Law Group's 288-page legal literacy associations, contains 35 two-hour morocco/legal_literacy_manual.asp training manual for Moroccan women session plans, organized into nine Please contact Kate McCann at (in Arabic) has been posted to
Top Ten Signs That You’ve Adapted to PCV Life in Morocco (Continued from page 5) (from the September 2002 Peaceworks - the newsletter of We arrived late morning and in the haze of no sleep I Peace Corps Morocco) decided that we deserved a really nice hotel. I phoned the ritziest place that I could think of and reserved two rooms. 1. Your body has acclimated to allow you to wear your The little taxi pulled up and the costumed doormen bowed as winter clothes all year round. they opened the majestic doors for my daughters who 2. You get sick from keeping the windows rolled down, entered with exaggerated elegance. After we settled in but insist that meeka sandals are perfectly acceptable luxurious rooms overlooking the gardens I said that they footwear in the winter. should remember Morocco is a land of contrasts. That was 3. You feel hurt and unloved when no one harasses you the explanation for almost anything years ago and it still on the street anymore. worked. This was only day one of a whole week, I wasn’t sure 4. Soliciting dirt cheap child labor to fetch your water or that I wanted to be the tour guide any more. How many to do things for you is an act of goodwill and good the contrasts were ahead? Would it get crazier? The answer was economy, too. yes, but that would take too long to explain. We made it back 5. Souk is the greatest social even in your life and is a safely to Spain and believe it or not we all said that we’d do it great source of excitement in your week. all again! 6. You find yourself flirting with the Nescafe girls handing out free samples so that you can have two. 7. You now keep picture of the King in your home. 8. For Christmas, you give bow-tied “seeroots” for taxi windows as presents. 9. You are no longer invited over for meals at your host family and they have recently become mysteriously and coincidentally absent from home whenever you drop by. 10. You now wave to the pooping man outside your front door and wish him good health.
Thank You! Merci! Many thanks to the people listed below who contributed to Friends of Morocco above and beyond their membership fees:
Aziz Abbassi Kristy Larson Jerome Bookin-Weiner Amie Bishop Agostinho Nunes Steve Clarke Are you still an FOM member?
Membership in Friends of Morocco brings you, in addition to all issues of our newsletter, special mailings announcing the annual meeting, reunions, seminars, and special Moroccan arts and craft showings. Friends of Morocco Newsletter is published quarterly by the Friends Membership also brings you the satisfaction of contributing to the goals of Morocco and is circulated to its members and other interested and aims of Friends of Morocco. At least once a year we do a system- parties. The organization was formed in 1988 to reunite PCVs who have served in Morocco, to inform members about current events wide mailing to keep our address database accurate and to give people and conditions in Morocco, to promote a better understanding of the opportunity to join us. The mailing label below indicates when your Morocco and Moroccans on the part of Americans, and to fund or membership expires otherwise support development activities in Morocco. Membership is $15 annually. FOM is governed by a nine-member national advi- If you have not paid your membership dues of $15.00 (individual) sory board. Mailing address: Friends of Morocco, P.O. Box 2579, annually to the Friends of Morocco, please consider doing that now. We Washington, DC 20013-2579. For further information, contact appreciate any additional contributions and recognize special president Tim Resch at 703-660-9292 or by email
Friends of Morocco NON-PROFIT ORG. P.O. Box 2579 U.S. POSTAGE PAID MERRIFIELD, VA Washington, DC 20013-2579 PERMIT NO. 948
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