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MOSCOW “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks” The New York Times

October - November 2013

Kolomna A hidden gem near Greater Explore Russia’s expansive beauty Culture & Events The season is in full swing

October - November 2013 No29 moscow.inyourpocket.com Contents 3

Nightlife 33 Bars, pubs and clubs – ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES how to stay out till 6 am Sightseeing Contents The Kremlin & 36 Russia’s fascinating history 39 Foreword 4 A word from our editor Shopping 45 What to buy and where News 5 What’s new in the city Business directory 46 Banks, accountants and lawyers Basics and Language 6 Some useful information Expat and Lifestyle 47 Expat Experience and Winter Bazaar Culture and Events 8 The season is in full swing Getting around Transport, tickets and more 49 Features Maps 52 Rent a bike 18 Kolomna 19 Russia 56 Raketa Watches 20 St. Petersburg 57 61 21 62 A fine selection of places to spend the night Sochi 64 66 Restaurants 24 Russian Cuisine and Sunday Brunch

moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 4 Foreword News 5

We’ve been putting Russia into the pockets of visitors and expats for a full decade now, and as the magazine celebrates Europe In Your Pocket New Accor complex Russia In Your Pocket 10 Years its tenth anniversary here this fall we’ve got another packed Ideally placed for passengers arriving on the train from guide to all the top attractions in Moscow in October and Domodedovo Airport, Accor Hotels’ new Moscow site is November. We’ve also got an interview with one of the Northern due to open its doors in November. The complex combines founders of In Your Pocket’s Russian editions, reflecting on two hotels, the 4-star Mercure and the 3-star IBIS, with Ireland 10 years of life in Russia (see page 47). Russia the first Adagio aparthotel in Russia. The Adagio comes Looking ahead, art lovers are in for a bonanza as the fifth with 94 apartments, from studios to two-room apartments edition of Moscow’s Biennale gets underway, bringing some for up to four guests and offers all the facilities needed Belarus of the best and most thought-provoking contemporary art for a comfortable stay in the city. But perhaps the biggest from around the world to the city. It’s an event which has Poland attraction is its location – although it’s a couple of minutes helped to reshape the local cultural scene, and we pick out Czech away from Paveletsky station, with its metro connections the highlights on page 14-15. Republic and rail link to the airport, the hotel is set on a quiet street It’s also time for the theater season to get into full swing, and in Moscow’s charming and historic Zamoskvorechye region. whether it’s contemporary dance at the Stanislavsky, Wagner Slovenia Romania Georgia Rates and available are still unknown at the time of going and Verdi at Novaya Opera, a reinvention of drama at Dvorets to press, but more details are expected on Accor’s website, Bosnia na Yauze or the triumphant return of Broadway blockbuster www.accorhotels.com, in due course. Montenegro Kosovo Chicago, there’s plenty to get excited about. All this, plus a FYR Macedonia host of great concerts and exhibitions can be found from p8. Albania The on-going year of Dutch culture continues apace, with an Charity exhibition of Russian artists inspired by the Netherlands and Pomogat Legko is a charitable a big show drawing parallels between the early romantics project established in St. of both countries opening at the Tretyakov. Meanwhile the Petersburg to help provide business and education communities gather for their latest treatment to children conferences on joint opportunities. See p16 for more. suffering from cancer. The Sports fans are already looking forward to seeing Bundesliga It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Ten years ago in a brave move, a Dutch couple bought a Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which programme grew out of art cat on Nevsky Prospect in St. Petersburg – Russian cats giants Bayern Munich come to play CSKA in the Champions therapy classes in which League – and the Russian champions will hope to avenge a time we have grown to become the largest publisher having a notorious reputation, especially the Nevsky kind. of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now children undergoing hospital They named the cat Kees and the amiable feline was an 3-0 defeat in Bavaria in the opening game of the competition. treatment spend a little There’s also Kremlin Cup tennis and the on-going Kontinental cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with instant success story – becoming the first model for St. time each week painting. Petersburg In Your Pocket ­– started by the same couple. Hockey League season to keep the excitement coming – Batumi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) However, the paintings were details on page 17. and the number of concise, witty, well-written and Kees is still the inspiration behind Russia In Your Pocket so good that Elena Gracheva but today he is a little greyer and has given up the high If you’re looking for a break from the big city, a trip to nearby downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides of the AdVita Foundation Kolomna might be just the answer. Only a couple of hours by published each year is approaching five million. We pressure life of a feline model to offer advice behind the decided that the images scenes. For Kees’ 10th birthday and the anniversary of train, it’s a welcome retreat from the bustle of Moscow – and also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 could be used as gift-cards. boasts its own impressive Kremlin as well as a museum of what has become Russia’s best and biggest publishing guides, which can be downloaded for free from the Pomogat Legko has become house for visitor guides, rumours abound that the Cat locally-made fruity confectionary to sweeten the deal. Plan AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. a fundraising branch of the your trip with our guide on page 19. Father behind Russia In Your Pocket and Krasnaya AdVita Foundation selling a Shapka will be holding a party to celebrate 10 successful Finally, as the dark nights arrive and the first snows threaten, To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your range of souvenirs based on children’s work to raise money the IWC’s annual Winter Bazaar is one of the first highlights years helping tourists, expats and companies get the Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ for children’s cancer treatment. A gift card and a souvenir most out of their opportunities in Russia. of the long Russian Winter. It’s a perfect place to do some suddenly takes on a whole new meaning when you recognise Christmas shopping while helping good causes locally – for inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). that it is the work of a child suffering from cancer and that it more details see page 28. also is helping provide cancer treatment for other children. Andy Potts, Russia In Your Pocket From this touching basis the Pomogat Legko project grew. The Happy Unity Day new organisation has established its own community centre November 04 is Russia’s Day of Popular Unity. This national Editorial department Editor’s note where people can purchase gift cards and souvenirs and can holiday is a new old holiday having been celebrated for the Research & PR The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides themselves participate in master-classes, attend lectures first time in 1649 and commemorates the victorious uprising ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Yana Kurganova is independent from paid-for advertising. or volunteer time to the charity to help children. The project in 1612 by Minin and Pozharsky which ejected the Polish [email protected] We welcome all readers‘ comments and Moscow In Your Pocket acts as a support group for parents who can also spend forces from Moscow. Celebrated every year from 1612 up Layout & Design suggestions. We have made every effort to time painting with their children, gives children relief from the until 1917, the holiday was resurrected in 2005. It is viewed founded and published by Malvina Markina ensure the accuracy of the information at OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. [email protected] the time of going to press and assume no monotony of hospital life and also gives them something to by most observers as a replacement holiday for the now- Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Editorial contributors responsibility for changes and errors. aspire to and look forward – a positive moral boost for anyone abolished holiday of November 7 which commemorated the Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A. Andy Potts, The publisher does not bear responsibility going through difficult times. www.advita.ru Revolution. Creating the confusion of how to you congratulate Peter Campbell, for the accuracy of advertising information. someone on this holiday…Happy Unity Day! Moscow office Luc Jones Russia, 101000, Moscow Mосква В Твоем Кармане Krivokolenny Pereulok 12/2 Commercial department Учредитель и издатель: Erasmus monument for Moscow tel: +7 (499) 962 80 50 Sales Managers ООО «Красная Шапка» [email protected] Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург World-renowned Dutch scholar Desiderius Erasmus will be Natalia Murgo rubbing shoulders with other global giants in the courtyard russia.inyourpocket.com [email protected] Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. To order issues тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 of the Library of Foreign Literature in Moscow, following Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, Tanya Kharitonova факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 an initiative from Nuffic Neso. As part of the on-going [email protected] [email protected] Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде General director Tanya Skvortsova, Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, year of Dutch culture in Russia, a statue of the eminent [email protected] Copyright notice 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, philosopher will be installed in the courtyard, alongside Director Sales & Strategy Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka Всеволожский пр., 114. Заказ No 59-10 such eminent figures as Gandhi, da Vinci, Dickens, Jerke Verschoor 2003-2013. All rights reserved. No part of this Свидетельство о регистрации Lincoln and Bolivar. Erasmus (1466-1536) has been [email protected] publication may be reproduced in any form, средства массовой информации highly influential in Russian academic circles. His works © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket except brief extracts for the purpose of review, Пи No. ФС77-32970 от 29.08.08 выдано Published 6 times per year with supplements, without written permission from the publisher and Федеральной службой по надзору в were translated into Russian during Tsarist, Communist o N 29, 01.10.2013, 60.000 copies copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket сфере связи и массовых коммуникаций РФ. and modern times, making him a well-known figure. The © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Цена свободная. sculpture, due to be installed in November, was designed www.jobvandermolen.nl Тираж 60 000 экз. No29. 01.10.2013 For children aged 16 years and over. Для детей старше 16 лет. and constructed by Mikhail Yakovlev from St. Petersburg. www.nesorussia.org

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 6 Basics and language Basics and language 7

Aeroexpress Airport Trains Alcohol Alphabet The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal Mendelev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 alcoholic drink in Russia. Sovietskoye shampanskoye minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket you cannot buy alcohol in shops between 23:00 and 08:00. counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed Customs Language schools almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go Liden and Denz Language Centre A-1, Gruzinsky can be found on the company’s website, where you can to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT per. 3 bldg.1, entr. 6, office 181, MBelorusskaya, also buy an electronic ticket: www.aeroexpress.ru. need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration tel. (+7) 495 254 49 91, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Standard tickets cost 320Rbl for adults and 110Rbl for Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying Denz Language Centre Moscow is thankfully located in children between five and seven years of age. Children thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons the centre, not far from Belorusskaya metro. In terms of under the age of five travel for free. Business class tickets etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the facilities and ethos, this is a modern language school with cost 900Rbl. Passengers can also buy tickets at the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought up-to-date classrooms, and all the accoutrements that ‘Aeroexpress + Metro’ special fare, the cost of which is get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura can assist students. DVD gear is in all classrooms and 360Rbl and includes a ticket for the metro. (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or there’s also wireless and flat screen internet worksta- The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can tions. Students can study in groups, of which the minimum from within Russia are free). legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol length is one week with a maximum of ten students or out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the learners in one class. Groups have the advantage of great allowance is less. social activities outside of lessons, although individual classes are also available. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Foreigner prices Sat, Sun. A The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days Ruslingua Language Center C-5, 1-y Spason- of Intourist-organised Soviet travel, which is slowly dying out alivkovsky per. 3/5, office 403 (4th floor), MPolyanka, although at some theatres and museums, foreigners are still tel. (+7) 495 748 31 85, www.ruslingua.com. This excel- required to pay twice to 6 times more than Russians. If you lent language school has individual and group courses for have a document (propusk), which says you work or study expats, visitors and revision courses for university students in Russia, you are theoretically entitled to the local price. and can organise home stays. There’s a specially dedicated Numbers conversation class and they also offer trips with a teacher Internet Access and Mobile Phones to the local market to practice your language in real life situ- 1 adin 12 dvinatsat 50 pyatdesyat ations. They also offer a special one day course on how to 2 dva 13 trinatsat 60 shesdesyat Internet access. Most cafes, restaurants and bars in talk to taxi drivers and chauffeurs which is especially useful 3 tri 14 chetyrnatsat 70 semdesyat Be on guard! Moscow have free wifi access or offer wifi for a small sum. if you will be being driven around a lot in Moscow. QOpen 4 chetyre 15 pyatnatsat 80 vosemdesyat In most places you will need to ask for a password (parol) 10:00 - 19:00. Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly to logon. 5 pyat 16 shesnatsat 90 devyanosta in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have Mobile phones. You can use your mobile phone from home 6 shest 17 semnatsat 100 sto been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian Pocket dictionary: Obmyvat 7 sem 18 vosemnatsat 500 pyatsot or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night. mobile company. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Whether you’ve just bought a new car or an apartment, 8 vosem 19 devyatnatsat 1000 tysicha Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) Russian SIM card. You’ll need to bring your passport to the maybe a very expensive fridge or fancy new camera, in 9 devyat 20 dvatsat 2000 dve tysyachi (+7) 800 220 00 02. store to register your new sim card. Russia after buying this thing you need to obmyvat or 10 desyat 30 tritsat ‘wash’ it, to ensure that it will not bring you bad luck. Wash 11 adinatsat 40 sorok it with what you ask? With alcohol of course! For example, Climate Registration if you’ve got a new flat, invite your friends over, dip the new Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your keys into your vodka shots and drink away. Alternatively you Useful Phrases Russia in the autumn - rain, wind and then a little flurry arrival in Russia. If you are staying in a hotel the hotel will can also obmyvat getting a new job, finishing your military of snow. In October Russia’s beautiful ‘golden autumn’ is usually register you within 24hours of your arrival and as the service or getting your diploma, by for example dipping the Basic phrases usually fully underway as the trees start to turn beautiful service is complicated a small fee may apply. Many tourist corner of your contract or certificate into the vodka shot shades of red, orange and yellow. By the time November agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on and then gulping down . Cheers! No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да arrives though snow will probably already be falling, mixed time, you can expect serious problems when leaving Russia, Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте with the odd bit of icy rain, so stick to wearing layers, wa- ranging from paying a fine, to missing your flight. Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания terproof shoes and of course don’t forget your umbrella. Thank you Spasibo Спасибо Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините Crossing the road Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста Unless you want to play chicken with your life, you need to I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю learn the word переход! It means perekhod in Russian I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю по- or underpass in English. When you see this sign above a Russian pa-russky русски tunnel, know that you can head safely under and cross Do you speak Vy gavaritye pa- Вы говорите по- under the street. Miss one and you can end up walking for English? anglisky? английски? another 200 or 300 metres. The busiest interchanges have Help! Pomogitye! Помогите! around five different exits, entrances to metro stations and Go away! Ostavte menya! Оставьте меня! a ton of shops.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 8 culture & events Culture & events 9

While St. Petersburg may claim to be the capital of Russian 05.10 Saturday culture, Moscow can arguably be considered as its birthplace. October events Music Night Stanislavsky Music Theatre Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and Through 23.12 Monday As part of the worldwide Day of Music, the city is planning to co. -they all took their inspiration from this magical and 19:00 Spirit of host a series of concerts and performances spanning a range majestic place. Live music from local and international C-3, Rakhmaninov Hall of Moscow Conservatory, ul. of genres and venues. Among the places staging concerts will performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of Bolshaya Nikitskaya 11, MBiblioteka Imeni Lenina, be large concert halls such as the International House of Music, the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also tel. (+7) 495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru. In Moscow the Gnesin Academy of Music and the Moscow Philharmonia sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, it might not feel like it, but Russia is, geographically speak- as well as complexes like Flacon and SAKHArt. The program air-guitar competitions and other curious events. ing, Japan’s nearest neighbour. The countries are separated is yet to be unveiled, but it promises a range of performances, by just 40km of water between Sakhalin and Hokkaido and master-classes and discussions covering a wide range of music Concert Halls the island nation has been supporting the annual “Spirit of from classic to contemporary. The organizers hope that it will Japan” music festival here since 1999 to help cement links become an event to match the likes of ‘Night at the Museum’, 16 Tons (16T) A-2, Ul. Presnensky Val 6, MUlitsa between the two cultures. This year’s festival, which runs at and establish itself as an annual highlight in the cultural cal- 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 499 253 15 50, www.16tons.ru. the Moscow Conservatory until Dec. 23, combines ancient endar. For more details, visit www.moscowmusicnight.ru. Arena Moscow (AM) Leninsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDina- and modern music for traditional Japanese instruments, mo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.arenagroup.ru. performances by Japanese musicians and ensembles, works 06.10 Sunday B2 Club (B2) B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 8/1, MMaya- by Japanese composers in the European classical tradition 17:00 Kinozvuk festival kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. and music by Russian and European composers on Japanese B-1, Glinka museum of musical culture, ul. Fadeeva 4, M Crocus City Hall (CCH) MKAD 65-66 Km, Mya- themes. Highlights include a shamisen recital on Oct. 27 and MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 62 26, noirmusic.ru. For Russia’s culture vultures, the Bolshoi is not the kinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.ru. a performance of traditional music from the Gagaku court on Elsewhere, orchestras and ensembles have long been keen to only name in town. Indeed, given the high prices and DOM Cultural Centre (DCC) D-4, Bol. Ovchinnikovsky Nov. 13. Q Tickets 100 - 350Rbl. attract audiences by devoting themselves to movie soundtracks M sometimes difficulty in getting tickets for Russia’s most per. 24, bldg. 4, Novokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 - whether it’s the London Symphony Orchestra doing the Imperial famous stage, it’s not surprising that many discerning 72 36, dom.com.ru. Through 09.10 Wednesday March from Star Wars, or a Korean group putting on a symphonic opera lovers and balletomanes are opting to go to the International House of Music - Chamber Hall (IHMC), version of computer game sounds. Now the concept is coming to International Festival at the Kremlin Stanislavsky Music Theatre instead. After a success- Theatre Hall (IHMT), Svetlanov Hall (IHMS) E-5, Russia, lights and fireworks and all, with the Noir Quartet giving its M C-3, State Kremlin Palace, ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBib- ful renovation the theatre on Bol. Dmitrovka has gone Kosmodamianskaya Nab. 52, bldg. 8, Paveletskaya, take of some Hollywood classics - and a few numbers from the lioteka Imeni Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628-52-32, krem- from strength to strength, gaining a reputation for beauti- tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11, www.mmdm.ru. likes of Angry Birds and Super Mario Bros to boot. It’s something M linpalace.org. This autumn brings some of the brightest ful productions which match the elegant surroundings. Izvestiya Hall (IH) B-2, Pushkinskaya pl. 5, Push- of a departure from the Glinka Museum’s usual highbrow fare, stars of the ballet world to the Kremlin Palace in a season of The 95th season got underway at the end of September kinskaya, tel: (+7) 495 364 05 05, www.izvestia-hall.ru and some local listeners may raise an eyebrow at the absence crowd-pleasing dance classics. The festival began on Sep. 20 with the premiere of Richard Wagner’s opera Tannhauser. Live Music Hall (LMH) Ul. Dubosekovskaya 4a/1, of any of the much-loved Soviet cinema songs, but it promises M with a gala performance of , and reaches its climax Until recently Wagner was almost unknown on Moscow’s Voikovskaya, tel: (+7) 495 785 17 60, www.cdk.ru a fun evening. Q Tickets 600 - 2,000Rbl. Moscow Hall (MH) B-1, Triumfalnaya pl. 1, MMayakovs- with three nights of world-class ballet in early October. On Oct. stages – politically dubious in Soviet times, the demands kaya, tel: (+7) 495 228 20 80, www.moscowhall.com 6, it’s Minkus’ with a largely Russian cast. Oct. his works make on performer and audience alike kept SK Olimpiysky (SKO) C-1, Olimpiysky pr. 16, MPr. 7 brings , and Oct. 9 runs down the curtain with him out of view in the immediate post-Communist era Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. Prokofiev’s dramatic Romeo & Juliet, featuring the talents of as well. But a successful recent production of Lohengrin Stadium-Live (SL) Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, guest star Igor Yebra of the corps-de-ballet at the Bordeaux at Novaya Opera, and the unearthing of the rarely seen MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. Opera House. Q Tickets 100 - 2,500Rbl. Ban on Love at Helikon, have whetted local appetites for State Kremlin Palace (SKP) C-3, The Kremlin, Ul. the Teutonic master and encouraged more companies Vozdvizhenka 1, M. Biblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 to include him in their programs. 628 52 32, www.kremlinpalace.org It’s not the only grand premiere of the coming season: Verdi’s lavish Aida, commissioned to celebrate the open- ing of the Suez Canal and neatly demonstrating how even Moscow Philharmonic the most base propagandistic cliché can be transmuted into artistic gold in the right hands, is also coming to the The Moscow Philharmonic is world-renowned, and stage in a new production, as is Mozart’s timeless Don carefully preserves performance traditions. Its aim is 17.10 Thursday Giovanni. With critics in recent years rating the theatre’s to provide the modern listener with a diverse repertoire opera company as Russia’s most talented – if not always of folklore and innovation. Over the last ten years, it has 19:00 Vagen Nalbandyan its most prestigious – audiences could be in for a treat. increased the number of concerts, with now more than C-3, State Kremlin Palace, ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka Dance lovers are welcomed with the contemporary three thousand a year across the globe. The Philhar- Imeni Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, kremlinpalace.org. DanceInversion Festival (16.10 Wednesday - 24.11 monic’s creative subscription policy attracts children Vagen Nalbandyan has been one of the pre-eminent dancers and Sunday), which brings leading companies from , to concerts, providing them with an opportunity to hear choreographers of his age and to celebrate 60 years in dance , New Zealand and to various stages in the world’s best contemporary artists. The number of the Kremlin Palace is hosting a gala evening in tribute to his life Moscow, and also features fruits of the Stanislavsky Mu- subscriptions is growing, with more than 200 issued for and work. His long career won him the acclaim and affection of sical Theatre’s collaboration with leading contemporary the coming season. Each year more attention is paid to dance lovers all over the world. The festival includes an impres- director Jiri Kylian. His latest work, Wings of Wax, gets its children’s projects, with famous Russian artists partici- sive list of stars of Russian music and dance, from pop stars to premiere towards the end of the festival alongside other pating in the popular ‘Tales and Orchestra’. 05.10 Saturday folk-dance ensembles, reflecting the diversity of Nalbandyan’s recent prize-winning shows. Moscow Conservatory Grand Hall (CGH) B-3, Musical Chicago career. Q Tickets 500 - 8,000Rbl. The company also premieres a new take on La Bayard- Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 A-6, MDM, Komsomolsky pr. 28, MFrunzenskaya, tel. ere, with opening night on October 18. This was one of 629 94 01, www.meloman.ru. (+7) 495 788 46 46, chicagothemusical.com. Block- Theatres the key of the Russian Imperial era, set to music Moscow Philharmonic Chamber Hall (PCH) B-1, buster musical Chicago is returning to Moscow for a new run by Ludwig Minkus, whose Don Quixote is also a fixture ul. 29, bldg. 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) this fall, with Larissa Dolina returning home to reprise the (BT) C-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, in the Russian repertoire, and its set pieces have rivaled 495 232 53 53, www.meloman.ru. role which made her a Broadway star. Back in August Dolina MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 250 73 17, www. the immortal Swan Lake for popularity over the years. Moscow Philharmonic Small Hall (PSH) B-3, appeared as Mamma Morton in New York, becoming the first bolshoi.ru. The new production is directed by Natalia Makarova. Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 Russian to take on a starring role on Broadway and winning Helikon Opera (HO) B-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, For full program details and ticket booking, visit 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. great acclaim from American audiences. Now she’s leading bldg. 2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.stanmus.ru Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall (PTH) the cast in the Russian version of the production, which opens www.helikon.ru. Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko B-1, Triumfalnaya pl. 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) on Oct. 6 and runs for 42 performances, bringing this great Maly Theatre (MT) C-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeat- Moscow Music Theatre C-2, Ul. Bol.Dmitrovka 495 232 53 53, www.meloman.ru. show back to town for the first time in more than 10 years. ralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 625 48 59, www.maly.ru. 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35. Q Tickets 1,000 - 3,800Rbl.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 10 culture & events Culture & events 11

18.10 Friday 18.10 Friday - 20.10 Sunday 25.10 Friday - 10.11 Sunday 21:00 Suzanne Vega Klass Quartet: Tapyor Show International Festival Two Masters - Two Art Salon on Starosadsky Arena Moscow, Leningradsky prospekt 31, bldg. 4, Pl. Zhuravleva 1, MElektrozavodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 Worlds MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.arenagroup. 933 58 59, www.teatrntp.ru. Moscow’s Independent С-1, Kolobov Moscow Theater New Opera, Karetny ru. Suzanne Vega’s last trip to Moscow prompted some to Theater Project is set to unleash a new kind of performance Ryad 3, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 694 observe that her music was akin to the sort of quirky pop on audiences in the city with a genre-defying “Tapyor Show” full 08 68, www.novayaopera.ru/en. Wagner and Verdi are Phoebe from Friends might have produced if “Smelly Cat” of music and dance. Dialogue is kept to a minimum with Klass two great, but contrasting masters of the operatic arts. So had actually been any good. Damned with faint praise? Not Quartet takes to the stage, making it an ideal opportunity for Novaya Opera is out to showcase their work in a festival this exactly. Her thoughtful lo-fi pop certainly has more than a non-Russian-speakers to get a flavor of the city’s vibrant drama fall. The Italian is represented by Rigoletto and Il Trovatore at whiff of a homely downtown coffee bar, but elevated to the scene. And the message is to expect the unexpected, with a the end of October, plus a gala evening of highlights from his point of pure artistry. Oddly then, she’s also regarded as the performance which even its creators admit is difficult to define operas. Wagner, meanwhile, features at the start of November mother of the MP3, since techies feared that here a cappella in terms of conventional theater. It’s been a year in the making, with a staging of his Lohengrin and a return for the Moscow hit “Tom’s Diner” would be too great a challenge for their and combines live music and dance with drama. For the first time premiere production of his great love story Tristan und Isolde. recording system. They were wrong, and the track became in Russia, the cast is made up of musicians rather than , The festival wraps up with an evening of symphony and vocal not only one of the first MP3 files but also Vega’s calling card. united under director Elshan Mammadov’s vision of ensuring that extracts from the masterpieces of both composers on Nov. Q Tickets 1,200 - 10,000Rbl. “theater can be different once again”. Q Tickets 500 - 1,500Rbl. 10. Q Tickets 800 - 2,500Rbl. November events 01.11 Friday D-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 19:30 Mylene Farmer 624 15 83, www.gemsart.ru. This small gift shop is a С-1, SK Olimpiysky (SKO), veritable Aladdin’s cave of semi-precious stones, minerals Olimpiysky pr. 16, MPr. and amber handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 and decorative items by talented local craftsmen. If you 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. are looking to take away a unique little piece of Russia, It’s four years since Mylene rather another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt Farmer last came to Moscow, then look no further than these cabinets filled with items but the French chanteuse made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper, the 19.10 Saturday is back at last with a brand purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious stones. 22:00 Pirate Station Revolution new show. The ‘Timeless’ For something even more exotic they’re also selling frag- Stadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg.17, MSo- tour, which kicked off with 10 ments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern kol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.radiorecord.ru/ nights at the Bercy Arena in Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the headlines in news/231856/. For its devotees, Drum & Bass is more Paris, draws heavily on mate- February in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selec- rial from last year’s “Monkey Me” album and 2011’s “Bleu tion of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, than just a type of music - it’s closer to a way of life. And Q that’s what Stadium Live is planning to put on show when Noir” and also promises a spectacular show complete with , traditional scarves and of course Russian dolls. Cirque du Soleil, Kooza Pirate Station comes to town. Sponsored by Radio Record, it dancing robots. The latest album, which reunited Farmer with Open Mon - Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. brings six revolutionary acts which changed the face of dance producer and songwriter Laurent Boutonnat was a huge hit Through 04.11 Monday music, combining music with theater and circus acts to create in France and received good reviews for its cuts of classic Cirque du Soleil, KOOZA a full-on show following a well-established template which has synth pop. Q Tickets 1,750 - 50,000Rbl. 05.11 Tuesday F-6, OK Luzhniki, ul. Luzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. toured the world over the past 11 years. It promises to be far 19:00 Jason Palmer (+7) 495 780 08 08, www.cirquedusoleil.com. The more than just a dance event, with a large-scale spectacle 03.11 Sunday - 04.11 Monday B-1, Glinka Museum of Musical Culture, ul. Fadeeva 4, world-famous Cirque du Soleil is back in Moscow -and its suspended above the heads of the audience and reinforced Nitro Circus Live MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 62 26, jasonpalm- new show, KOOZA, sees the Canadian troupe go back to by dazzling special effects. Q Tickets 1,200 - 4,600Rbl. С-1, SK Olimpiysky (SKO), Olimpiysky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, ermusic.com. The smooth sound of Miles Davis is on the its roots. Pitching its big top at Luzhniki once more, the tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. One upon a menu at the Glinka Museum of Musical Culture when Jason company is building this production around the core circus 25.10 Friday time, stunt bike riding was a slightly cheesy affair, typically Palmer brings his trumpet to town in November. He joins the disciplines of clowning and acrobatics. It’s a real box of 20:00 Brainstorm involving the likes of Evel Knievel trying to leap safely over a Alexei Podymkin Quartet in an evening of music dedicated to tricks: the show’s name is derived from the Sanskrit word Stadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. long line of London buses. Today, though, the rise of extreme Miles - but while Palmer looks back at a great name of the for ‘box’, reflecting the explosive start as the key characters (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru/en. Latvian sports has transformed these humble beginnings into a past audiences have the chance to hear one of the stars of spring out of their box and also evoking the spirit of a kind rockers Brainstorm made a little bit of history this summer, compelling spectacle of skill and courage. The renowned the future. Says who? Well, influential magazine Down Beat of Pandora’s Box of moral conundrums faced by the cast becoming the first band from the former USSR to perform Nitro Circus is rated as one of the best in the world, with riders listed him as one of the top 25 horn players of the future, on a journey which explores questions of right and wrong at the legendary Glastonbury Festival, promoting this year’s hurtling skywards off 18m ramps to perform their acrobat- and he’s worked with stars like Wynton Marsalis and Herbie without losing its lightness of touch and entertaining ap- English-language release “Another Still Life”. But 2013 also ics stunts. It’s not all motorcycles and BMX either - some of Hancock, among many. It’s definitely one to get mellow with. proach. Q Tickets 1,600 - 12,000Rbl. marks the 10th anniversary of the band’s first Russian ap- the stunts are specially tailored for toy vehicles. If you never Q Tickets 800 - 1,800Rbl. pearances, and one decade on they remain as popular as thought you’d see Barbie like this, think again … Q Tickets ever here. Renars Kaupers, frontman of the band, suggests 1,000 - 7,000Rbl. 06.11 Wednesday - 07.11 Thursday that the time is ripe for his band to bring its full stadium show 19:00 Three Сenturies of Ballet to Russia for the first time. Q Tickets 1,500 - 10,000Rbl. C-3, State Kremlin Palace, ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBib- lioteka Imeni Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, kremlin- palace.org. The Moscow State Academy of Choreography celebrates its 240th birthday this year, and the Kremlin Palace’s “Three Centuries of Ballet” is the main party to mark the anniversary. It’s a two-day event which introduces the star students of some of the world’s most prestigious dance schools - including leading institutions in Italy, the USA, , Japan and, of course, Moscow’s own celebrated academy. As well as rising stars, the shows on Nov. 6 and 7 will also feature famous graduates, including the likesof Nikolai Tsiskaridze, Igor Zelinsky, Tamara Rojo and Maria Alexandrova. Q Tickets 200 - 4,000Rbl.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 12 culture & events Culture & events 13

19.11 Tuesday 03.10 Thursday - 17.11 Sunday 16.10 Wednesday - 16.02 Sunday 19:00 MusicBox Emmanuil Evzerikhin: Photos which were not Natalia Goncharova, between East and West The Royal Game C-3, State Kremlin Palace, ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBib- Jewish museum & Tolerance centre, ul. Obraztsova 11, B-5, Tretyakov State Gallery, Krymsky Val 10, MPark lioteka Imeni Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628-52-32, krem- bldg. 1A, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 645 05 50, Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgal- Through 27.10 Sunday linpalace.org. Russian pop music has been one of the www.jewish-museum.ru/en. Jewish life in the lery.ru. Natalia Goncharova was a hugely significant figure in The Royal Game highlights of recent Eurovision song contests, with the country was a complicated thing, as believers’ status varied between 20th century art, and this long overdue retrospective at the C-1, All-Russia Decorative Art Museum, Delegats- consisting polling well in the big event. And while it may have the edge of the abyss and the potential perk of freedom to Tretyakov offers a valuable opportunity to explore her creative kaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 more than a slight whiff of cheese about it at time, there’s no emigrate. But away from the political machinations of the life in detail. Presenting more than 400 of her works, it reflects 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Russia has long been synonymous denying that the country’s perkiest acts deliver a nifty line in age, Moscow’s Jewish community continued to live life as several areas of her art, from painting and sculpture to theater with chess-playing greatness, and “The Royal Game” song-and-dance routines. So while it would be hard to claim normally as it could in sometimes stressful times. A new design and book illustration. Goncharova was a vigorous exhibition at the Decorative Art Museum celebrates that the MusicBox Prize ceremony on Nov. 19 at the Kremlin Palace photo-exhibition, “Photographs which were not”, recalls some defender of the avant-garde, having begun her career in the with a look at some unusual chess sets. From luxurious as an event of great artistic significance, its constellation of of that life. Taken by Emmanuil Evzerikhin in 1957, 1960 and heady post-revolution period of experimentation and audacity. line-ups of porcelain or ivory to the historic Peoples top local stars should make for an entertaining night out. The 1965 they show the grand ceremonies at Moscow’s Great Yet she also drew heavily on the history of art - especially of the Caucasus set, carved in bone and displayed at range of music is relatively wide, from controversial rapper Choral Synagogue, as well as snapshots of everyday life in the Russia’s diverse folkloric traditions - for inspiration, creating the 1900 World Expo, it’s a tour of exotic and creative Noize MC to pop-rockers Quest Pistols, but the highlights Soviet capital at that time. Now stored in Liechtenstein, these a bridge between past and present. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. interpretations of this great game. Some sets carry a are likely to be provided by the pretty girlie-pop princesses photos are seldom seen here in Moscow - but will be on show Closed Mon. Admisson 250Rbl. political message, like Natalia Danko’s The Red and the Maksim and Nyusha. Q Tickets 500 - 8,000Rbl. at the Jewish Museum until Nov. 17. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, White made in Leningrad in 1925 where the red king Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission free. is a hammer-wielding worker or wooden sets which pit workers against capitalists. Chess from outer space is Exhibitions represented by a special set, weighted for use in zero-G Through 30.01 and playing on Soyuz 9 in 1970. And, from perhaps the Thursday high point of Soviet chess, the table used when Karpov Romanovs, por- and Kasparov faced off for the world title in what proved trait of a dynasty to be the longest ever match is also on show. C-3, Historical mu- But there’s also a Spartan side to the exhibition. A relic seum, Ploshchad from the siege of Leningrad shows cardboard cubes with Revolutsii 2/3, images of pieces glued to the sides, while another exhibit MTeatralnaya, tel. comes from the GULag, where stray bits of wire were (+7) 495 692 40 twisted into shape. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 19, www.1812shm. 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission 200Rbl. ru. 2013 marks the 400th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty, 11.10 Friday - 17.10 Thursday tsars of Russia for more Moscow Design Week 21.11 Thursday - 19.01 Sunday than 300 years until Art Play, Nizhnyaya Syromyatnicheskaya 10, MKur- Performance Now the 1917 revolution. skaya, tel. (+7) 495 620 08 83, www.artplay.ru. Moscow Jewish museum & Tolerance centre, ul. Obraztsova 11, To celebrate, the State Design Week is back for its fourth year, and after 2012’s local bldg. 1A, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 645 05 50, Historical Museum is edition the emphasis in 2013 is far more global. Centred on www.jewish-museum.ru/en/main. Performance art has holding an exhibition of portraits of the men and women who the Artplay complex, this year’s exhibitions bring top talents become one of the most powerful new trends in the con- shaped Russia’s destiny across the centuries. For much of from Italy, the US and Slovenia, with a joint project involving temporary art world, and the Jewish Museum and Tolerance the Romanov era, the Royal Family was the predominant Fiera Milano listed as the biggest event this time around. Center explores some of the highlights of the genre’s short subject of Russian secular art. Portraits of the royals, and Leading architectures, designers and manufacturers are com- history in its latest exhibition. Curated by RoseLee Goldberg, depictions of their lives, was an essential way of ensuring ing from Artplay to recreate something of Milan’s celebrated one of the leading theorists of this strand of visual expres- that the country’s rulers - and national symbols - became annual international design show here in Moscow. From sion, Performance Now focuses on the rise of performance familiar to every Russian. The exhibition includes more than America, industrial designer Brad Ascalon premieres his De- art in the first decade of this century, looking at some of the 400 works, divided among eight eras of Romanov rule, Evolution, in which he explores the way in which objects decay key artists who have led its development. Bringing together and features paintings by Russian and European masters. and creates a metaphor for the American Dream’s conversion video footage, objects, drawings and photos, the exhibi- QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. to an impossible myth. And Slovenia’s young designers offer tion shows off some of the iconic moments of the past 10 Admission 200Rbl. a show of their industrial designs, deliberately rejecting the years. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. pantheon of brands to showcase individual creativity in all Admission 300Rbl. Through 27.10 Sunday its quirks and unexpected detours. Design week runs from The Riddle of Vivian Maier Oct. 11-18. Full program details at moscowdesignweek.ru С-4, Lumiere Brothers Gallery, Bolotnaya naberezhnaya QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Admission 200Rbl. 30.11 Saturday - 04.12 Wednesday 3, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 98 Moscow’s World Fine Art Fair 78, www.lumiere.ru. Vivian Maier is one of the enigmas Pavilion Forum, Expocenter, Krasnopresnenskaya nab. of photography. For 40 years she worked as a nanny in 14, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 37 99, www. Chicago, with few knowing anything about her secret pas- sixagency.com/mwfaf. Moscow’s World Fine Art Fair re- sion for the camera. Yet in obscurity she managed to shoot turns for the seventh time - and this year promises to be the more than 100,000 negatives - few of which were seen biggest yet. At the time of writing, about 80 international gal- by anyone prior to 2007. When they emerged into view at leries and fashion houses have signed up for the 2013 event, auction in her home town, they quickly caused a sensation: an increase of 30% on the previous edition. Each will bring an her streetscapes bear comparisons with the likes of Henri assortment of unique works from the 16th-20th centuries, Cartier-Bresson, her compositional techniques recall Andre including great paintings, unique sculptures and important Kertesz. Over the past two years, 11 solo shows of her works by the Impressionists and other early 20th-century work have been staged, and a collection of 50 b&w works figures. There’s also a wide range of modern art, photography highlighting the architecture and street life of Chicago and and decorative arts including fabrics and jewelry. The grand New York is coming to Moscow for the first time at the opening is on Nov. 29, and full details of the salons attending Lumiere Brothers Gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun can be found at www.moscow-faf.com. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. December 3 14:00 - 24:00, December 4 14:00 - 19:00

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 14 culture & events Culture & events 15

Through 22.01 Wednesday Through 20.10 Sunday Through 17.11 Sunday Coronation in the Biennale bonanza More Light The Kabakovs С-3, Kremlin Moscow, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 Moscow’s Biennale of Modern Art is not one of the city’s C-3, Manezh, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MBiblioteka Imeni B-4, Moscow Multime- 03 49, www.kreml.ru/en. A new exhibition at the Kremlin longest-running events, but in its relatively short history it Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 645 92 77, www.5th.moscowbien- dia Art Museum, ul. Os- revels in the pomp and pageantry of Russia’s Imperial age. has had a huge impact on the city’s cultural life. This year’s nale.ru/en. More Light (Bolshe Sveta) - the Manezh is the tozhenka 16, MKropot- From the splendor of the crown of Monomakh to the recently- edition is the fifth, and in that time it has not merely grown centerpiece of the festival, and it will show an exhibition of 30 kinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 discovered original of Tsar Pavel I’s ‘Act of Succession’, it’s from its own humble beginnings, it has breathed life into a works. The highlight of these looks set to be an installation 637 11 22, www.mdf.ru. a tour of the highlights of royal Russian history. Amid all the wide range of projects which have transformed the visual by architect Alexander Brodsky, which the artist hopes will The Kabakovs - Ilya and magnificence - and there’s plenty of that, with jewel-encrusted arts scene. After all, it was events like the second Biennale challenge audiences to wonder where his entranceway con- Emilia Kabakov have long accoutrements and lavish coronation outfits to the fore - there in 2007 which firmly established Winzavod as a major player structed of recycled materials might lead. This show is also been pre-eminent among is also an explanation of the symbolism of the entire ceremony among Moscow’s venues, and the success of that project, the headline act for this year’s curator, Catherine de Seeger, Russia’s installation artists, as wedded the ruler to the country and its people - for better transforming a disused industrial site, has been influential the first woman to take charge of the Biennale. Her choices and the Biennale program or worse. Many of the exhibits are making their first public in establishing similar creative hubs at places like Artplay, reflect her own circumstances, caught somewhere between coincides with a series of appearance after painstaking restoration, adding to the Flacon and the Krasny Oktyabr complex. radicalism and mainstream and resistant to the idea of big shows devoted to their work. excitement around one of the blockbuster shows of the year. As contemporary art became more fashionable, so the devel- name headline-grabbers. Among the more obscure names to It’s been a bumper year for QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Thu. opment of prestigious complexes such as Garage – now in a look out for is the ‘Gorod Ustinov’ collective from the provincial them in Moscow, with the new home in Gorky Park – came with it. In a city like Moscow, city of Izhevsk, while Azerbaijani photographer Rena Effendi’s “Ship of Tolerance” project in Gorky Park introducing young- where for decades art was treated with heavy-handed suspi- work is also deserving of attention. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. sters to modern art while the Multimedia Museum stages cion from the authorities, this switch in emphasis has been Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl. a large-scale exhibition of collaborations with El Lisitsky as a revelation for both creators and consumers of the arts. part of the Biennale’s broader program. The Kabakov brand It’s no longer just about the venerable likes of the Tretyakov manages to speak as clearly to children and their love of Gallery or the of Fine Arts – creativity is bunnies as it does to citizens of the former USSR, evoking finding its place all over town, inspiring and challenging new a host of memories and images that distort and define the generations of Muscovites. times we have lived through and live in. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Full details of the on-going Biennale 2013 can be found at Closed Mon. www.5th.moscowbiennale.ru/en/, while below Moscow In Your Pocket picks out some of the best exhibitions on offer. Through 24.11 Sunday Reconstruction M Winzavod 4-y Siromyatnichesky per.1, bldg.6, Ch- D-2, Ekaterina Cultural Foundation, Kuznetsky Most kalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 46 46, www.winzavod. 21/5, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 55 22, ru. Winzavod - it’s no surprise that once again Winzavod is www.ekaterina-foundation.ru/eng. Reconstruction staking heavily on a successful Biennale. This time the show (Rekonstruktsiya) - the Ekaterina Foundation recreates an stopper is an exhibition of surrealist sculptures by Erwin epochal exhibition of contemporary art from the early-90s, Wurms, hosted with the support of the Regina Gallery. Under curated by Elena Selina, one of the leading gallery owners of the heading ‘Cowardly Tractor’, Wurms displays 18 works, Through 15.11 Friday that era. It offers a fascinating glimpse of how Russia’s art- from his trademark houses to a new series of abstract works Ukraine: Expropriation ists reacted to the sudden switch from Soviet society to a 18.10 Friday - 16.02 Sunday involving rubber sausages. To his fans, he delivers a bitterly Grinberg gallery, Winzavod, 4-y Syromyatnichesky per. 1, no-holds-barred new world where old certainties were swept ironic critique of the modern world. Elsewhere the confined bldg. 6, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 11 70, grinberg- away almost overnight. For lovers of art as a social document, Leningrad Symphony spaces of the Fermenting Rooms take on the ambience of an С-5, Tretyakov State Gallery, Krymsky Val 10, MPark photos.com. Five contemporary photographers from Ukraine this is an unmissable event. As well as the exhibition, the Egyptian catacomb during a short-term show from the Vglaz feature in the Grinberg Gallery’s show ‘The Expropriation’. The Garage Center offers a series of lectures which put these Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgal- collective (until Oct. 5) while the other galleries in the complex lery.ru. The Leningrad Symphony of Dmitry Shostakovich most celebrated of the quintet is Bob Mikhailov, now based works into a historical context. And this show is part one of will be unveiling their new season’s exhibitions to coincide in Berlin, whose works feature in the collections of several a series which continues in December looking at artists of is one of the great works of 20th century music; its artistic with the main event. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. equivalent came from the sketchpad of Georgy Verey. His of the world’s top galleries and who is perhaps the most the late 90s. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. ‘Leningrad Symphony’ is the subject of an exhibition at the famous post-Soviet photographer. Here he’s represented Tretyakov starting on Oct. 17, which showcases about 70 by works from his deliberately kitschy “Lurik” collection, works inspired by the city of his birth. Having lived through whose bright colors were intended to highlight the absurdi- some of the most turbulent years in the history of Russia’s ties of the Soviet system. More contemporary work comes Northern Capital, taking in revolution and war along the way, from Roman Pyatkovka, whose conceptual project reinvents his finest works are a portrait of Leningrad - its landscapes, Soviet photography by adding modern, quirky images to the streets and houses, and the life of its residents. This intimate staid lay-outs of the magazines of the USSR. Another of his exhibition includes original drawings, etchings and lithographs projects recreates portraits of Ukrainians who died during from the Tretyakov’s collection. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Stalin’s purges and the famine of the early 1930s. QOpen Mon. Admission 250Rbl. 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

Through 06.10 Sunday The Dance of Dead Languages С-2, Tsum, ul. Petrovka 2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru. The Dance of Dead Languages (Plyaska mertvykh yazykov) - swanky TsUM, Moscow’s cen- tral department store, is typically a home to fashion victims rather than culture vultures. But during Biennale it plays host to an ironical installation which draws on the transience of the fashion industry. Occupying a whole floor of the store, it explores the fate of Internet slang and the way in which For all the latest concert, event and exhibition fashions change, often wildly, to create an enduring state of flux. In an installation modeled on a granny flat, the skeletons news follow us on facebook at of fashion are ready to dance. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket 11:00 - 22:00. Admission free.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 16 culture & events Culture & events 17

Inspired by Holland Waiting for Sochi … Dutch art has a well-deserved place in history, and it’s hardly It’s a big season for Russian , with everyone looking surprising that contemporary students are drawn to the coun- forward to the Sochi Olympics and hoping that Russia can try’s academies to hone their skills. This exhibition, running win the gold medal on home ice. While many of the places to Oct. 21 at the Library for Foreign Literature, showcases on the Olympic roster will go to Russia’s NHL stars, the top Moscow goes Dutch about 20 works by the latest generation of young Russians players from the KHL have one last chance to impress head From shipbuilding to soccer coaching, Russia and the Neth- who have headed west. There’s a mixture of professional coach Zinetula Bilyaletdinov as the regular season continues. erlands have enjoyed close links for centuries and continue artists, photojournalism and talented amateurs contributing For Moscow’s teams, there are good grounds for optimism. to do so to this day. Which is part of the inspiration behind to a look at the world from two distinct directions, all of which Dynamo, going for the third successive title, began the this 2013’s ‘Year of the Netherland in Russia’, exploring and helps to update the audience’s views of what is happening in season strongly with four victories in its first four games celebrating links between the two countries and aiming to the contemporary Dutch art world. back in September. forge new ones. Library for foreign literature E-3, Ul. Nikoloyams- The return of Leo Komarov from Toronto has revitalized the As well as a strong cultural program which has been run- kaya 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 00 Blue-and-White offense, while goalie Alexander Yeryomenko ning throughout the year, and continues this fall with a look 23, www.nesorussia.org. Bring on Bayern! has been impressive between the piping and could yet sneak at Dutch poetry and a review of how the landscapes and The big event for football fans in Moscow this autumn is into the Olympic party. cities of Holland have inspired Russian artists, there is also Performing poetry the visit of Europe’s top side, Bayern Munich. Last season’s Across town CSKA has appointed American John Torchelli as a wealth of information available for those looking for forge In modern-day, polyglot, cosmopolitan Amsterdam it’s easy Champions League winner is heading this way in defense of head coach and signed up former team Russia captain Alexei business or academic links between the two countries. In for a visitor to barely encounter the Dutch language. Yet at that title having been drawn in the same group as Russian Morozov to join the free-scoring Alexander Radulov at the doing so, perhaps they will safeguard future generations of the height of the Dutch Empire it was as much a global lingua champion CSKA. sharp end of a potent attack. Early signs suggest this team Russo-Dutch cooperation and friendship. franca as English is today, the established tongue of trading Last season was an unforgettable one for Bayern as it bid will take time to settle into a rhythm, but it has the potential posts throughout the world. And, like any major language, farewell to retiring coach Jupp Heynkes with a clean sweep to improve on last season’s Conference semi-final. Dutch inspired its own literary tradition. As part of the Dutch of the Bundesliga title, the German Cup and a Champions Even struggling Spartak looks stronger this time out, with Exhibitions Days festival, a special event introduces Russian audiences League final triumph over Borussia Dortmund at Wembley to goalie Jeff Glass playing 153 minutes from the start of the to the 19th-century “Tachtigers”, an influential and distinctive wrap up a memorable treble. Bayern legendary Franz Beck- season before finally conceding a . The Sokolniki side Through 24.11 Sunday school of poets writing in the 1880s. More of a performance enbauer described Heynkes’ team as the best-ever Bayern missed out on last season’s play-off, but under experienced Piet Mondriaan than a discussion, the Boekenhoekje on Oct. 1 introduces side, and few would argue that the Bavarians have outstripped coach Fyodor Kanareikin there’s already evidence that this B-5, Tretyakov State Gallery, Krymsky Val 10, the writing of Jacques Perk, Willem Kloos, Herman Gorter, Barcelona to become Europe’s undisputed top dog. season will go the distance. MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www. Lodewijk van Deyssel and Frederik van Eeden, poets who But demand for tickets to see the all-conquering German side All three teams are in regular action throughout the autumn. tretyakovgallery.ru. From the celebrated modernism of changed the face of the Dutch Literature forever. under the guidance of new head coach Pep Guardiola is likely Dynamo plays at Luzhniki (m. Sportivnaya), CSKA at Lenin- Piet Mondrian to cutting-edge video installations, there’s Library for foreign literature E-3, Ul. Nikoloyams- to outstrip supply: with Moscow’s main stadium at Luzhniki gradka (m. Aeroport) and Spartak at Sokolniki (m. Sokolniki). something for everyone in a series of art shows in honor of kaya 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 00 undergoing renovation, the game is to be played at Arena Midweek games start at 7:30 pm, weekends usually at 5 pm. the festival. The Mondrian exhibition is the flagship event 23, www.nesorussia.org. Khimki. While that suburban venue is the most up-to-date in For an up-to-date schedule, see en.khl.ru. at the New Tretyakov Gallery, exploring how the Dutch- the area, it’s a compact affair with fewer than 20,000 seats. man, along with those émigré Russians Kandinsky and Dutch studies CSKA has promised a general sale after the club’s season Malevich, laid the foundations for abstract art. The whole The Netherlands is attracting an ever-growing cohort of ticket holders have had a chance to book their places at the movement was suppressed by the Soviet authorities, international students to its universities and higher educa- big game on Nov. 27 but it’s likely that any available spaces and to this day Mondrian’s work is little known in Russia. tion institutions, and Russian youngsters are forming part will be snapped up quickly. For full details keep an eye on QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 250Rbl. of that trend. So once again Nuffic Neso Russia is running www.pfc-cska.com. its Holland Pavilion at the ICIEP international student fair in Bayern isn’t the only big name heading to Moscow – CSKA’s Moscow, with 13 institutions on hand to present details of group opponents also include big-spending English side their English-language study programs. Immediately prior to Manchester City (Oct. 23). After decades in the shadow that Oct. 5 event, a two-day conference involving Russian and of local rival United, the blue half of Manchester invested Dutch universities and colleges will follow up on the memo- heavily to win the Premier League in 2012. But so far the randum of understanding signed during Vladimir Putin’s visit club’s wealthy Emirati backers have seen little return on their to the Netherlands earlier this year. QSaturday, October, 5 investments in Europe – City has yet to advance beyond the 12:00 - 17:00. group phase of the Champions League, and faces a tough Radisson Slavyanskaya Hotel A-4, Pl. Evropy 2, test this time against an experienced CSKA squad and the MKievskaya. proven class of Bayern. The fourth team is Czech outsider Viktoria Plzen (Oct. 2). Unusually, CSKA is Moscow’s only Euro-representative 07.11 Thursday - 12.01 Sunday this season. Dynamo and Lokomotiv failed to qualify, while Russian and Dutch art of the first part of Spartak’s Europa League campaign was ended at the first the 19th century hurdle following a play-off defeat against Swiss side St. Gal- len. But Anzhi Makhachkala is due to continue playing its С-4, Tretyakov State Gallery, Lavrushinsky per. 12, Europa League games in the Saturn Stadium at Ramenskoye, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www. Moscow Region. Its group stage opponents are Tottenham tretyakovgallery.ru/en. The great Dutch masters - Rem- At your service Hotspur (, Oct. 3), Tromso (, Oct. 24) and brandt, Hals and others - are well represented in Russia’s Moscow’s biggest tennis tournament, the Kremlin Cup, is back Sheriff (Moldova, Nov. 28). museums. But at the Tretyakov Gallery in November art at Olympiisky from Oct 12-20. The showpiece event forms lovers have a chance to get acquainted with a series of part of the APT and WTA tours, and there are some big names lesser-known works dating from the early 19th century. As expected to take part. Among the men, US Open semi-finalist artistic fashions shifted towards Romanticism, Dutch artists Stanislas Wawrinka is expected to be a leading contender, followed suit, even if their works have tended to be known Doing business along with defending champion Andreas Seppi and French ace only to a small circle of specialists. The Tretyakov exhibition Also within the festival, representatives of Dutch companies Richard Gasquet. Local interest is likely to center more on the will include portraits by Cornelius Kruzeman, still lives by doing business in Russia will stage a one-day conference ladies, where several Russian stars including Maria Kirilenko, Johannes van Osa and Landscapes by Barend Cornelius (Oct. 5) to help explain some of the prospects and pitfalls Svetlana Kuznetsova and Anastasia Pavlyuchenkova lining Kukkula. These works are to be shown alongside important facing firms exploring the Russian market. up alongside top-seeded Italian Sara Errani. For full details Russian artists of the same period such as Troponin, Kipren- of the competition, and information about tickets, visit the sky and early works of Aivazovsky. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, More information about the program of the Russia- tournament website at www.kremlincup.ru. Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200Rbl. Netherlands bilateral year 2013: www.nlrf2013.nl, www.nesorussia.org By Andy Potts

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 18 FeatureS featureS 19

Getting There

Kolomna is just over 100km from Moscow, making for an easy day trip. Your best bet is to drive, as the distance can be covered in under two hours (although part of the road was under construction when we visited, resulting in a detour and a significant delay, by the time you read this it should have been ‘remonted’)! Take the highway heading south-east from Moscow through Lyubertsy towards Ryazan. In case you don’t have your own wheels, the trains are always come to the rescue – there are two options, both leaving from Moscow’s Kazansky Vokzal (at metro Komsomolskaya on the red/brown line):

Express train: there are three per day in both direc- tions heading for Ryazan, but stopping at Golutvin which is a couple of km from downtown Kolomna – walk from there or catch a cab for 100Rbl. This option is definitely the quicker as the train takes around an hour and a half and you’ll have a reserved seat, but tickets can sell out at peak times. Unlike the elektrichka, once the tickets have Kolomna gone, it’s tough luck – you’ll have to wait for the next train After exploring Moscow’s main sites, it’s always tempting to (unless you’ve booked in advance)! get beyond the hectic life of the city and explore somewhere a bit different. Quiet Kolomna might lack the fame of the Elektrichka: there are numerous trains daily although Golden Ring, but that’s not to say there’s nothing here to bear in mind that they stop at every lamppost along the Rent a Bike How Does It Work? see. Your guide book might only mention Vladimir, Suzdal and way so the journey will take you over two hours each Moscow is one of the latest cities to set up its own bike , and you’ll struggle to find much about the town in way. Buying a ticket doesn’t guarantee you a seat and in programme, allowing both tourists and Muscovites a new To rent a bike, you will first need to register online at English on the Internet, but don’t let that put you off. It’s not the summer months you’ll share a wooden bench with way to travel around. The pay-as you go stations for these www.velobike.ru using a credit card, which means that because Kolomna isn’t worth visiting, quite the opposite; a babushka carrying two large bags to and from their bikes are mostly on the Boulevard Ring, and the notable red you will need internet access or to do this at home. The the key reason is that during communist times, the Kolomna dacha. The advantage of this method is that the tickets bikes, courtesy of Bank of Moscow, can now be seen all over website is all in Russian, so get a Russian friend to help region hosted factories that were involved in the production of are (slightly) cheaper than the express, and they don’t sell the city. Moscow in Your Pocket tried out the system and has you. The prices vary depending on the ‘tariff plan’ you military equipment, and was off-limits even to ordinary Soviet out, even if you have to stand for part/all of the trip, and mapped out for you a possible route from Chistye Prudy to choose, which means the amount of time you decide you citizens, so the chance of curious foreigners being allowed in the train will drop you off right in the middle of Kolomna! Tsvetnoy Bulvar’, which takes you through some of Moscow’s want to have the bike service available to you. You then was somewhere between nil and zilch! Soviet paranoia has leafiest and most loved boulevards. pay additionally for the hours you use the bike, although diminished somewhat in recent years so Kolomna is open to A nice place to start is the far end of Chistye Prudy (‘Clean any trip up to 30 minutes is free with the tariff plan. 30 all, although very few foreigners make the trip simply because are numerous churches and monasteries which are open to Ponds’). Say hello to the African ducks with the orange minutes to an hour costs 30Rbl and an hour to an hour they aren’t aware of it. the public (except the female-only convent!), the key ones beaks and admire the memorial to the Kazakh poet Abay and a half costs 90Rbl. Once you have registered online, The town’s most unique attraction, in fact, is a factory of being the Uspensky Cathedral, the Voskresensky Chruch Kunanbaev, which in recent years has been the setting for you will receive a text message with the number of your sorts. But far from military technology, the Kolomna Pastilla and the Spassky Monastery. There are plenty of souvenir opposition meetings. Pedal past the ‘’ theatre on ‘bikecard’ (velokarta) and a PIN number. You enter these in museum (www.kolomnapastila.ru/en/) on Posadskaya stalls selling the standard touristy kitsch to prove that you’ve the right, set up by young actors in 1956 and one of the first to the terminal near the bike stand along with the number Ulitsa is all about confectionary made from the fruits of the actually been to Kolomna. theatres which enjoyed the new freedoms of the Thaw era. of the bike you wish to rent, and have 60 seconds in which region’s orchards. A guided tour shows how the candies were There are several restaurants bunched together at the Weave in and out of the strollers until you reach the Chistye the bike is released from the lock. And away you go! You made and gives visitors the chance to try a few tasty treats entrance to the old part of Kolomna, all serving up a Prudy metro station and the statue of Russian playwright can return the bike to any bike station, just make sure for themselves, while the attached shop offers the perfect combination of Russian and European-style food, plus beer Griboedov, author of the play “Woe from Wit.” Unfortunately that it is properly secured in the lock and returned on souvenir for friends back home. brewed in nearby Ryazan. Despite the ‘tourist trap’ potential the ‘Stretensky Bulvar’ square is closed at the moment for time. Late returns, loss or damages can make you liable The Pastilla business reached its peak in the 19th century, location, prices are reasonable (i.e., considerably lower than repairs, so you will have to ride on the road to continue the to a 3,000-15,000Rbl fine. when it even got the Royal seal of approval after a visit from what you’d pay for similar fare in Moscow)! It’s hardly Michelin route, or alternatively, you can start your ride at the end of the Please note that the bike-season in Moscow will end the Tsar, but the town dates way back to 1177. You’ll do well star but several steps up from stolovaya standard! park, picking up a bike on Bol. street. by October 31st or when the snow hits the streets. to find anything that old nowadays but the 16th-century This area has a lot of religiously-significant monuments, Kremlin is still a big draw. It was re- built in stone between including the Stretensky Monastery, built to commemorate 1525 and 1531 during the reign of Tsar Vasily III (initially it the events of 1395, when the city was said to have been had been made from ). West European Russia used saved from the advance of Tamerlane by the arrival of the to have hundreds of Kremlins, varying in size although Vladimir Icon of the Mother of God, which is now displayed few survive intact today and the Kolomna Kremlin stands in the Tretyakov Gallery. as an example of one of the better preserved. In fact this Crossing the road to reach Rozhdestvensky Bulvar’, you will particular Kremlin formed part of the Great Abatis Line find a new memorial to Evdokiya Dmitrievna, said to have (‘Bolshaya Zasechnayacherta’ in Russian) which was a chain brought the icon to Moscow. Riding downhill you reach Trub- of fortifications created by the , and naya Square. On the right, at the start of Tsvetnoy Bulvar’, a later the Tsardom of Russia to protect it initially from raids 32 metres high column commemorates policemen who die by Crimean Tatars but also served as a border between the in the line of duty, and is topped by a statue of St George Muscovy state and the steppe nomads to the south. In total and the Dragon. The unicycling clown statues in the middle it stretched for several hundred miles. of the Tsvetnoy Bulvar’ park are a creation of , Situated on the confluence of the Moskva and Oka rivers, the famous sculptor of the statue by the river, the Kolomna Kremlin once had 17 towers, four of which had and celebrate the circus on your right which has been here gates, with the main gates being located at the northern since the late 1980s. You can leave your bikes at the Tsvetnoy and southern end of the complex. Only seven towers and Bulvar’ metro station at the end of the park. two parts of the wall have survived. However, on its territory

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 20 FeatureS hotels 21

We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from Raketa Watches some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast un- only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one less otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being to the information received by us from hotels for the Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; period October - November 2013. In Your Pocket assumes including the hair spring and escapement. To visit the factory no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing. (which offers free tours in English), you would have to travel to St. Petersburg. Read the story below to find out what makes Raketa so interesting. 5 stars It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow D-4, Ul. the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow. Without actually being become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to the President, it would be hard to live closer to the Kremlin supply the Russian army with equipment. The factory also than this. Moscow’s first five star hotel is just across the river Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel C-3, Tverskaya ul. provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous and has a stunning view of the Kremlin. The lobby is home 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www. red stars which you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers. to more business men than tourists. Rooms bear the mark marriottmoscowgrand.com. Situated conveniently on Tver- The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the of royalty and some suites literally have been designed by skaya ulitsa, the Marriott Grand boasts luxurious rooms with name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin from the Swatch group in 2011, which improved the watch minor members of the British royal family. Suites also have modern stylings, fitness and health facilities, and European made the first flight in history into outer space; the factory quality; although a range of Soviet machines indispensible the most sensational bathrooms, sure to one day grace the restaurants. The Grand is co-managed with two other Mar- renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. to the watch-making process are still in use. An ex-Rolex pages of design magazines. Q230 rooms (Room prices riott hotels in Moscow, which ensures flexible booking. The With the help of Swiss engineers, the factory began to be re- production director joined the team in 2012, planning to start at 16,000Rbl). Breakfast (1,900Rbl) and VAT are not rooms themselves offer a generous amount of space and organised in 2009. There are now approximately 60 workers, pass on the Swiss standard certification “Chronofiable” and included. PTHA6UFLGDCwW hhhhh freshness. Twin rooms come with two king-size beds that (originally there were around 6000), still using the factory’s “COSC” to the company. In 2013, Raketa launched its new you could swim in. Natural light shines abundantly in their original buildings. The factory purchased modern equipment “Automat Raketa” movement, and a new watch designed by Lotte Hotel Moscow A-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MS- conference rooms and trademark foyer atrium and there are the famous actress Natalia Vodianova. molenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. quality buffet lunches in the restaurant. Q386 rooms (Room Raketa watches were produced for the Communist Party and This sparkling new hotel from the prestigious Korean Lotte hotel prices start at 15,000Rbl). Extra bed free of charge. Breakfast Raketa Sonata Watch affiliate organisations, and their watches are therefore tailored group offers top-class Asian standard service right in the centre 1,450Rbl. PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh to the needs of these jobs. The ‘Seaman’ watch has a 24 hour of Moscow. The lobby is an opulent feast of specially commis- The ‘Sonata’ watch, which dial, divided into three watch systems: Russian, British, and ioned blown glass chandeliers and real marble pillars, while the Marriott Royal Aurora Hotel C-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, is unisex, is one of Ra- Scandinavian, and is decorated with marine cardinal buoys restaurant options are some of the hippest and most exciting in MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.mar- keta’s many interesting and International Marine signal flags. It features an integrated town. Upstairs you could drive a car in the gigantic ballroom whilst riottmoscowroyalaurora.ru. The presence of the Polo Club watches. The watch fac- solar compass, and a double time system, useful when sailing the spacious and luxurious bedrooms with discreet state-of-the- Steakhouse, an ode to a blue-blood English gentleman’s club, tory was inspired by the around the world. The ‘Traveller’ watch, inspired by Russia’s art extras all feature the kind of bathrooms you would expect goes to show that the Marriott Royal Aurora is one for those look- works of the many great vastness, features all of the country’s eleven time zones. Other to see in a very expensive spa. Due to the specially designed ing for refinement. Butler service comes along with the hotel’s Russian composers, such watches include the ‘Eternal Calendar’, which allows the user glass facade the noise of the street is completely inaudible classically styled rooms, complete with enormous beds and qual- as Tchaikovsky and Rach- to look up any date and discover which day of the week it will throughout the hotel and we’ve rarely seen a better thought-out ity furnishings. The team of well-trained, attentive butlers show maninoff, who both gave the fall on, and the ‘Gorbachev’ watch, which features a 0 instead club lounge. Q300 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). guests to their rooms (champagne in-hand) and attend to each world great masterpieces, of a 12. Foreign journalists questioned its uniqueness, to which Extra bed 2,000Rbl. VAT and Breakfast (1,800Rbl) not included. and every aspect of their stay. Executive facilities include private to create and launch this Gorbachev’s reply was: ‘in Russia, we start at again at 0’. PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh meeting rooms and lounges. Q231 rooms (Room prices start at new collection of watches, As these organisations had a male majority, Raketa produce few 19,000Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. VAT and Breakfast (1,800Rbl) not which are based on the women’s watches. Some designs include the ‘Ballerina’ watch, Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka E-2, Ul. included. PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh historical design of 1984. which features red stars on its face reminiscent of those on the Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 There are three options Kremlin; and the ‘Winter’ watch, inspired by Russian folk tales. 77, www.mamaison.com. Boutique design hotel - there is a Metropol C-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. for the strap; either a gold coloured steel bracelet, a Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special oc- fine line being walked here in the loud design, but in the end the (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. A marvel brown genuine leather strap, or a black genuine leather casions. In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an eagle, a purple, red and black-coloured interior makes the grade. The of history, the Metropol has kept its original art nouveau exterior strap. The crystal is mineral, and the face features a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to celebrate the cigar lounge and the restaurant are stellar, created from the excit- that stood witness to the revolution of 1917. The story of its unique, intricate gold pattern, as well as a small red 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic War. The factory also able minds of Russia’s best designers. Indeed, the abundance of famous founder, Savva Mamontov, and the hotel’s decorative star, which is reminiscent of the large red stars that you designed a watch for the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014, with French furniture turns the hotel into a gallery. The Mamaison Pok- mosaics can fill a book. Get ready to breathe in the atmosphere can see on top of the towers of the Kremlin, which were a different sport represented at each hour. rovka has only suites and apartments (no standard rooms) and as most rooms are filled with early twentieth century furniture created at the Petrodvorets Factory before it began On this page we have highlighted one of Raketa’s most all are filled with hip design features and modern kitchenettes. and original lamps. Q362 rooms (Room prices start at to produce watches. Each Raketa watch has a unique interesting watches, and listed where to buy them - they would The small foreign literature library suffices, should you get bored 15,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. VAT and Breakfast (1,100Rbl) design on the back, and the ‘Sonata’ watch is no differ- make a great souvenir of your time in Russia! with the state-of-the-art televisions, wireless internet and luxury not included. PHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh ent, featuring a floral design. The ‘Sonata’ watch is the www.raketa.com spa complex with hydromassage pool. In the single room, the ideal watch to wear for an outing to the Bolshoi Theatre. double bed folds up into the wall. Q84 rooms (Room prices start Nikol’skaya Kempinski C-2, Ul. Nikolskaya 12, at 11,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl. VAT and breakfast (1,200Rbl) MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 775 92 22, www.kempinski. Where to Buy not included. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhhh com. This five star hotel from the Kempinski group looks out Podium Concept Stor C-2,Ul.Kuznetsky most. 14, over in the heart of the city, a stone’s throw MKuznetsky most, tel. (+7) 495 926 15 35, www. away from Red Square. The hotel’s grand Art-Deco style podiumfashion.com. QOpen 12:00 – 23:00. Symbol Key echoes the turn of the century, when this former residence of Count Orlov became a luxury perfumer’s. Degas and TSUM, 4th Floor, C-2, Ul. Petrovka 2, MTeatral- P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted naya, (+7) 495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru. QOpen Klimt style paintings adorn the walls of the rooms which are 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 11:00 – 22:00. T Child friendly H Conference facilities furnished with fine fabrics, gilded oak, marble and crystal. An Tsvetnoy Central Market, 4th Floor C-1, Tsvetnoy K Restaurant U Facilities for the disabled original 1907 mosaic frames the windows looking out onto bul. 15, MTsvetnoy bulvar, (+7) 495 737 77 73, www. F Fitness centre L Guarded parking Nikolskaya street in the MosaiK restaurant, which serves Q Russian-European cuisine. The conference facilities are ultra- tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 11:00 – 22:00. C Swimming pool G Non-smoking rooms Twins Shop D-3 Ul. Solyanka 11, MKitay Gorod, modern from ball-room to board room, and the hotel offers tel. (+7) 495 698 53 93, www.twinsshop.ru. QOpen D Sauna M Nearest metro station plenty of places to relax too, with several bars, an Italian 12:00 – 22:00. 6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi connection restaurant, a French bistro and a spa. Q211 rooms (Prices start at 16,000Rbl). PTHA6UFLGKDCW

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 22 Hotels Hotels 23

Radisson Royal Hotel A-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. The flexible conference facilities leave nothing to be desired, Ask the Concierge 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.radisson. whilst the suite category of rooms could host small meetings ru/royalhotel-moscow. An absolutely monumental hotel, in themselves and come with a large sofa, separate bathroom Interview with Ekaterina which with its 505 rooms and 29 floors, is easily the biggest for guests, and a Nespresso brand coffee machine for the Zhuravleva – Concierge luxury hotel in Moscow. The lobby takes in not only the re- caffeine-fuelled businessman. To relax after a hard day’s at Moscow Marriott Roy- ception, but also a huge interactive scale model of Moscow businessing there’s a spa with sauna and Turkish baths, a al Aurora as it was back in the 1970s and the chance to buy a Rolls large restaurant, a free-standing fireplace in the bar for sit- Royce. The rooms vary in colour schemes and size, but all ting down with the paper, calm minimalist design and beds of Please tell us something benefit from huge beds that you almost need a step ladder impressive proportions. Q360 rooms (Room prices start at about yourself. to mount and original Socialist realist art. The bathrooms with 6,000Rbl). PTHA6FLGKDW I am Ekaterina Zhuravleva, panoramic views of the city in the ambassador suites are and originally come from particularly inviting. Dining options take in a wealth of options Moscow. I studied at the including an outstanding Iranian restaurant. Not a place to do 3 stars Foreign Languages Univer- things by halves, the Royal has a full Olympic sized pool as Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel Varshavskoye sity and the Moscow Acad- well a gigantic fitness centre in the basement. Q497 rooms shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 22 22, www. emy of Finance, receiving (38 apartments, Room prices start at 11,000Rbl). Extra bed azimuthotels.com. A stellar mid-range option with much two degrees. 1,500Rbl. Breakfast 1,500Rbl. PTHAUFLGK� more style and verve than Moscow’s usual offerings. The I started working at the Moscow Marriott Royal Aurora in DCW hhhhh clever ex-industrial ‘loft’ design perfectly incorporates its 19th 2000 as a concierge and am now Guest Service Manager Century factory building’s historic details like vaulted ceilings, at the same hotel. I am also a member of Executive brick walls and cast-iron columns with hip lighting and modern Committee of Clefs d’or, Russia. 4 stars minimalist chic. Rooms vary in size, but all are remarkable Courtyard by Marriott Moscow City Center Hotel for their clever use of space and abundance of nifty gadgets October/November aren’t seen as the best period B-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 and super rain showers. Numerous trams stop directly in to visit Moscow, can you convince us otherwise? 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. The hotel is front heading to the metro station which is a ten minute walk October and November are the best months to visit tucked away on a quiet side street facing an old Anglican away. Q (Room prices start at 4,700Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Moscow, in my opinion, as the weather is milder than in church and the world-famous Red Square and Kremlin are Breakfast (600Rbl) not included. PTAULGKW the summer months, and the ‘Indian Summer’ starts. just a short walk away giving you the best of both worlds: the There are lots of things to do in Moscow during this comfort of the hotel’s peace and quiet, and the excitement Karetny Dvor Hotel C-1, Mal. Karetny per. 5, MTsvet- period – all the theatres open with their new season, of the accessible, fast-paced Tverskaya area. The inside noy bulvar, tel. (+7) 985 458 89 19, www.kdvorhotel.ru. you can visit museums, galleries and go to the movies courtyard’s massive glass roof radiates positive energy into This small boutique hotel on the top floor of a historic building if it’s rainy. In Moscow there are lots of parks where you the lobby. All guest rooms are also very well lit and feature ultra is quiet and peaceful despite being a short walk away from can walk with your friends and family and even do some comfy beds and pillows. If you want a great view of the city, Tverskaya Ulitsa and the Boulevard Ring. The name of the sports – roller-skating, bike riding etc. Still it is not too late ask for a room on one of the top floors or if you like to people hotel, ‘Carriage Yard,’ harks back to the past when the area to have a barbecue outside Moscow on the weekend – it watch, choose a room with a courtyard view. Q218 rooms was home to carriage-makers, and the hotel’s design reflects might be even better fun than in summer. (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Breakfast (990 - 1,200Rbl) this past with wooden wheels, the original attic beams and a not included. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh tiled stove. The rooms are all modernly furnished, with a mini Moscow is full of experienced business travellers bar and free wifi. One of the rooms has a fantastic view over and expats, could you give them a tip for a secret Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC Krasnopresnenskaya a nearby onion-domed church. A family room is available. Q must-see place in Moscow. nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 22 22, PTHA6FLGKDW The Kremlin, Bolshoy Theatre, Red Square, Pushkin www.cpmow.ru. The charming mechanical rooster crows Museum and Tretyakov Gallery are all well known places across the wide atrium every hour and the palm trees bring to Medea Hotel D-4, Pyatnitsky per. 4, bldg. 1, MNo- to every experienced traveller. But there are some places mind Hawaii. Here you will find stylish rooms and facilities in a vokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 48 98, medeya-hotel. that are not so well-advertised like Stalin’s Bunker, the classic hotel space. Standard rooms are tastefully kitted out ru. Medea, The 21-room ‘small-hotel’, is named after the Cosmonauts’ museum which is a real pearl in the city in chocolate and biscuit striped carpet, a bold design feature elegant Italian furnishings which sprinkle its various rooms. now, the Moscow Planetarium and Gulag Museum. that gives an air of innovation and warmth. There is also Ranging from the ‘twin studio’ to the apartment-sized ‘Medea the Real Food Restaurant and a daily shuttle to the nearby suite’, it’s perfectly capable of accommodating entire families On a rainy/snowy day, what do you recommend Expo exhibitions centre. Q724 rooms (Room prices start at in addition to its usual influx of business travelers; rooms Moscow visitors to see? 8,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl. VAT and Breakfast (1,300Rbl) come with a ‘kitchen-in-a-cupboard’ for those that want to First of all, of course, I would recommend that they visit a not included. PHA6UFLGKDCW hhhh prepare their own food. However, the hotel lobby also boasts cinema or a theatre. There are now a number of cinemas both an Italian restaurant and a smaller cafe, open to both in Moscow where you can watch movies in the original Hotel Gentalion B-1, Ul. 1-ya Brestskaya 38, bldg. guests and those wandering in off the street - the building is language; the theatres are full of premieres, especially 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 777 80 97, www. located within some 100 meters of the metro. Rooms are the Bolshoy that attracts tourists at all times. And, surely, hotelgentalion.ru/en. This small hotel’s four-star quality equipped with tea and coffee making facilities. Q21 rooms restaurants – there are thousands of them in Moscow, and central location make it the perfect choice for business (Room prices start at 5,200Rbl). Extra bed free. Breakfast for all tastes and wallets, with all types of cuisines. Here guests, who will be charmed by the homelike atmosphere 300Rbl. PTAGKW is where a concierge can give valuable advice to suit the which is not often found in some of the larger and more guest’s wishes. impersonal hotels. The hotel’s 30 comfortable double rooms are furnished in a classical style with free Wifi access, air- Apartments What is your favourite place in the city? conditioning and a mini-bar.There is also a spa area with a Moscow Suites Serviced Apartments B-3, Ul. It is difficult to choose just one place in a big city like pool and a Finnish sauna to relax in, and lobby restaurant Novy Arbat 22, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 233 64 29, Moscow, but I would name Christ the Saviour Cathedral serving European classics such as beef tenderloin and crab www.moscowsuites.ru. These modern, well-appointed and its surroundings – the bridge over the Moskva River julienne, with an extensive wine list. Q30 rooms (Room prices apartments are centrally located on two main streets of at the cathedral is certainly one of the best places to take start at 7,650Rbl). PTALKDCW Moscow (Novy Arbat and Tverskaya), and offer great value amazing panoramic pictures of Moscow. accommodation. You can choose between studios and one Novotel Moscow City Hotel Presnenskaya nab. 2, bedroom apartments. All apartments are freshly renovated MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 89, www. and include high speed Wifi, flatscreen cable TV, imported For hundreds more reviews of hotels novotel-moscow-city.com. Novotel’s latest addition to linen, full kitchens and even a free airport/train pickup! The check out our website the Moscow scene is ideally placed amongst the glittering knowledgeable and helpful staff can assist you with addi- www.inyourpocket.com skyscrapers of the new Moscow City business district for tional services and guides are available. Q (Prices start at those who like to work hard and relax just as hard as well. 6,000Rbl). PAGW

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 24 Restaurants Restaurants 25

Korchma Taras Bulba C-3, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 14, Khacha-puri B-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTver- MNovoskuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 37 60, www. skaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. An Russian Cuisine tarasbulba.ru. This popular Ukrainian restaurant chain is inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior that great fun in a kitsch style. The rustic country theme is done shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare up to the max, from the colourful folkloric interior to the staff of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other members’ extravagant traditional costumes. They serve (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and in our scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that hearty traditional Ukrainian food and the menu is very long book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese bread green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop-укроп) and it usually and wide-ranging, although you do have an option to get most with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big thumbs finds its way into everything. dishes in small portions so you can taste a lot of everything. up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied by Entertainment is provided by the dancing waiters and the plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely with amusingly terrible English translations of their dishes (or homemade fruit drinks.The tables are all cramped together perhaps they really do mean ‘fish fried by a chicken’?). Q giving the place a noisy diner feeling, complimented by a Open 09:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGBS particularly eclectic clientele. Also at Ukrainsky bul. 7 (metro Kievskaya). Q Open 10:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good Mari Vanna B-2, Spiridonievsky per. 10a, MPushkins- €. PTAVEBSW and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. kaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 65 00, www.marivanna.ru. Book- Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up ings for this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that Madame Galife D-1, Pr. Mira 26/1 (entrance on quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in you are eating as if at a friend’s house and what kind of guest Grokholsky per.), MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 775 advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made the 26 01, www.madamgalife.ru. Madame, do you have a and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to table near the window? If you are lucky enough to get your reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is dine on traditional Russian home food such as borsch, pelemeni way, you will enjoy an enchanting, close-up view of one of one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old (but Moscow’s smaller botanical gardens and the quirky home- for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair. unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not mind-blowing, just made surroundings of Madame’s parlour room. Many of the Our price guide is based on the average price of plain good and filling but the service and homely atmosphere, items on the Georgian menu are prepared expertly on the Bliny and snacks a main course: complete with toys and crayons for the kids and the odd family rustic charcoal grill that sizzles to the left of the dining room Snacks (zakuski -закуски) are very popular and include € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl pet trotting around certainly make it a memorable experience. entrance and the giant khachapuri is irresistible. But if you all manner of pickled things (solyony-соленый ) as well €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAVGS show up unannounced (and yes, you must ring a buzzer to as small open sandwiches (buterbrod-бутерброд). Pan- be let in) and without a reservation, then you will be shown cakes (Bliny - блины) are very popular and may come with ShchiSliva С-3, Ul. Volkhonka 9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. to the basement room, tucked in a corner somewhere and savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina-ветчина), caviar Russian and Ukrainian (+7) 499 393 39 61, www.volhonka9.ru. We think ShchiS- deprived of all that makes this magical restaurant so fun to (ikra-икра), cheese (syr-сыр), mushrooms (griby-грибы) Cafe Chekhov Kamergersky per. 3, MTeatralnaya, tel. liva deserves a large ‘spasibo!’ for bringing to our attention a dine in. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. €€. TAEBS or sour cream (Smetana-сметана) or with sweet filling (+7) 495 692 09 34, www.cafe-chekhov.ru. Sitting next different side to Russian food - it needn’t all be caviar, pies and such as honey (myod –мед) or condensed milk (sgush- to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here has been inspired elk slathered in sour cream! The light décor and mossy wall pan- Sakhli С-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, bldg.1, MTsvetnoy Bul- onka - сгущенка). by the great playwright’s era. The dining room is decorated in els create a garden-like atmosphere, perfectly complimented var, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71, www.sahli.ru/en. Sakhli is beautiful bright white with art nouveau cornices, stained glass by the wholesome food packed with Russian flavours, herbs a class act with a menu developed from old Georgian family Soups and salads lamps and even the waitresses wear Edwardian costume. and even - shock horror! - vegetables. That’s not to say you recipes, a very warm and inviting country home style interior. Russians are big on soup (sup- суп) and there are literally Chekhov boasts to serve ‘new Russian cuisine’, although in can’t get a square meal here, from a hearty Sunday brunch Of particular note are the excellent lobio kakhetinsky (kid- hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian our book there’s nothing Russian about pasta and ruccola. to a three course dinner and tree ice cream. Altogether ney beans with onions and spices), the irresistible cheese soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Their version of borsch with apples in it is however a welcome it feels like a glimpse into an alternative Russia which, rather khinkali (giant cheese filled dumplings) and the grilled meats. Ukha (уха) a fish soup often made with salmon or trout innovation. Service can be frustratingly slow at times so don’t than being overrun by pizza and sushi restaurants, is making A mix of cold phakhli (a kind of thick Georgian dip) featuring is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup be shy with the staff. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PABS something quite special from its own homemade cuisine. aubergines, spinach and sweet peppers is great for groups, Solyanka (солянка). QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €. PTAGSW while the desserts are nicely displayed to help you make up Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them Cafe Pushkin B-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, your mind about how to finish up an excellent meal. QOpen and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. This 12:00 - 23:00. €. PTAEBW Russian salad is Olivye (оливье) - boiled potatoes, aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and popular with Caucasian/Central Asian carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either local business men and passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers Dzhon Dzholi B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 20, blgd. 1, MPush- Suliko na Patriarshikh B-2, Ermolaevsky per. 7, cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used kinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 55 67, www.ginza.ru. Dzhon MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 41 89, www. sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy (селедка to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where dzholi is another exponent of that concentrated casualness suliko.ru. Suliko is a place to eat and eat very well. Famous под шубой) which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ you could eat European standard food and talk freely without of the country kitchen that is all the rage in Moscow - and this in Moscow for its khinkali, the giant meat-filled dumplings is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Rus- time they even go so far as to install a huge stone oven. The here do not disappoint. With the perfect blend of herbs herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot. sian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first reason you really come here is to eat though, and for anyone and spices, they are rightly said to be some of the best floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant new to Georgian food this is a good and easily accessible outside of Georgia. Service is low key but spotless and Main dishes called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy introduction. Khachapuri and huge shashlik of course top a word of warning; order carefully, in traditional style, the Pelmeni (пельмени) - boiled dumplings stuffed with Bulvar. Q Thу first floor open 24hrs, the second floor 12:00 - the bill, but they also have other well-formed local delights portions here are really big. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. €. meat and served with sour cream. Varenki (вареники) 24:00. €€€€. PTALVEBSW hidden in there too like mchadi (sweetcorn fritters) and PTAUVBSW are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. chicken chkmeruli (garlic chicken) which should excite the Uzbek versions (manty - манты) are slightly bigger and Chemodan B-3, Gogolevsky bul. 25/1, MArbatskaya, tel. taste buds. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat Uryuk Cafe A-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 12, MKievskaya, tel. often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali - (+7) 495 695 38 19, www.chemodan-msk.ru. This is the 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PTABSW (+7) 985 410 00 86, www.urukcafe.ru. Uryuk specialises хинкали) are huge and eaten with the hands. place to come for real Russian hunter’s fare. The menu is based in colourful food with colourful names like ‘chakhlangan’ and Beef stroganoff (бефстроганов) - a Russian classic, around numerous old recipes found in a 19th Century Siberian ‘chukuduk’ (thankfully descriptions of the dishes are also famous across the world. cookbook - resulting in stag, bear, arctic goose and unusual Symbol Key provided so you’re not totally in the dark). The interior is a Pirogi/pirozhki (пироги/пирожки) - pies (usually Siberian fish such as white salmon and muksun holding court pleasant blend of laid back sofas and Caucasian rugs with made with bready yeast dough) stuffed with meat, cab- across the menu accompanied by other treats of the Taiga and P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted a hint of French bistrot; it seems equally suited to life as a bage, mushroom, fruits or even potato. Pirozhki are the homemade Russian vodka and other liqors. Portions are hefty E Live music S Take away restaurant or a bar. Menu-wise there’s a big choice of differ- small versions that look like little buns. and hearty and the warm and inviting 19th Century parlour inte- T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled ent Uzbek dishes from soups and salads to all manner of Kotlety (котлеты) - little meat patties usually made riors, discreetly lit by candles and old lamps, add to the feeling of beasts spiced, roasted and kebab’d. Then of course there’s with minced beef (govyadina - говядина) or pork G Non-smoking venue L Guarded parking shelter from a snowstorm, even in summer. Chemodan’s helpful tea served with an Uzbek sense of ceremony, and the hot (svinina - свинина). Frikadelki (фрикадельки) are staff and convivial atmosphere make for a wonderful experience V Home delivery M Nearest station snacks - variations on the theme of cheesy bready goodness meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and for fans of historic references and kitsch-free Russian cuisine. B Outside seating W Wi-Fi connection - provide filling options for vegetarians. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, meat and usually served with a sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAEGSW Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PTALBSW

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 26 Restaurants Restaurants 27

Сafe Blues Proletarsky pr. 20, bldg. 1, MKantemirovs- Pancho Villa Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 52, MOktyabrskaya, American and Latin American kaya, tel. (+7) 499 218 15 81, www.cafeblues.ru. A sub- tel. (+7) 499 238 54 13, www.pancho.ru. Pancho Villa has Asian and Indian American Bar and Grill A-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya urban gem, this bar and restaurant hosts a live “Best Blues the distinction of promoting itself as a restaurant-museum, a Aromass Ul. Krzhizhanovskogo 20/30, bldg. 1, MProf- ul. 2, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 250 95 Jam” on Wednesdays, to the great delight of its enthusiastic rarity in Moscow. Located in a large Mexican-themed basement souznaya, tel. (+7) 495 543 54 26, www.aromass.ru. 25, ambar.rosinter.com. You know how tourists travelling patrons. The standard of the guitar groups and singers is on Bolshaya Yakimanka, we found it mostly to be a great place This Indian restaurant, which features a number of dishes from to America often talk about how big the servings are there? truly superb, fostering a friendly local atmosphere and much to party. The happy hour specials almost call for inebriation with the Kerala region on its menu, gets reviews so good online that How they had to split a salad between two people? This is energetic dancing. The café serves a great range of Mexican a selection of cocktails and shots on offer at the price of 2 for something almost seems amiss. Indeed, I knew one long-term like this place. The casual easygoing atmosphere, country and American dishes- the fajitos were a particular favourite, 1 until 19.00. It is indeed an unusual place in a good way, with expat who travelled at least once a month fully across the music soundtrack and big servings are American dining as well as classic desserts such as Tiramisu and apple pie. wandering tequila girls pouring shots, Latin American dance city to eat here. Located in the south of the city along the staples. Here they do American style and Tex-Mex (which is Sadly the café does not serve any alcohol other than beer, lessons and a roving Cuban magician, who without much hyper- orange line, the food, the service and the ambience do not American as well). The interior is mostly wooden but not the and although you can bring your own the corkage is 300Rbl bole, will blow your mind with his tricks. The Nachos Supremos disappoint. There is an excellent selection of vegetarian op- waitresses. Also at ul. Zemlyanoy val 59 (metro Taganskaya) a bottle for alcohol under 18%, and 500Rbl if higher.The club come in portions rarely seen outside of North America, and the tions, Kingfisher beer, and plenty of seafood options which is and ul. Kirovogradskaya 14 (Shoping center Global City, metro hosts concerts Wednesday-Sunday, with karoake nights from quesadillas and Jalapenos Rellenos are also quite good. The no surprise considering that Kerala straddles the Arabian and Yuzhnaya). Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTAW Thursday-Saturday on the lower floor. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, fajitas are also a safe bet if a bit pricey. To be fair this place is Laccadive Seas. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTAESW Fri 12:00 until last guest, 13:00 until last guest, Sun 14:00 - best enjoyed if one is not looking for a quiet night out. Q Open 24:00. €. PAEW 11:00 - 06:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW Bely Zhuravl F-5, Frunzenskaya nab. 14, MPark Sunday Brunch Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 542 23 23, www.beliy-juravl. Corner Burger A-1, Ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya 76, MBelo- Starlite Diner C-2, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, ru. Possibly the best Korean food in Moscow is served up russkaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 83 98, www.cornerburger. tel. (+7) 495 989 44 61, www.starlite.ru. It’s most certainly at this simple restaurant and the portions are huge! Plenty ru. Possibly the only American joint in town not running a full American and those red booths are the real thing - the only Rus- of complimentary Korean pickled delights (including kimchi) on diner theme, but that doesn’t mean there’s anything lack- sian elements here are the electric sockets. You’ll hear more are provided to tide you over until the main dishes arrive. The ing in the menu. Corner Burger focuses on the obvious, which English spoken in this diner than anywhere else in Moscow, idea here is to bring a group of friends and share things out unusually come in an English muffin or German pretzel (we which adds to the otherworldly home-away-from-home experi- between you as the soups, noodles and meat dishes come recommend the muffin). The meat comes serves medium to ence. The menu spins out all the classics in authentic style, by the kilo. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVSW rare and is definitely noticeably higher quality than usual. Veg- including huge waffles, burgers and giant milkshakes made etarians also get their own veggie burger, while sweet tooths with oreo cookies, massive breakfast and huge filter coffees Darbars Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38,16th floor, will be delighted to see that the outstanding cake company from the pot. American diners are now de rigeur in Moscow MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www. next door provides the desserts. All round corner burger has but Starlite are still the original and best. They now have five darbar.ru. Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky a classy New York feel, heightened by the motown soundtrack 24 hour venues, with the original being the giant silver truck prospekt is not the most central place in the city, but it’s and dim minimalist interiors. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat in a leafy garden near Mayakovskaya metro (Bol. Sadovaya worth the trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for and 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PAVSW 16), although our favourite is the latest spacious venue on some of the best Indian food in the city! Darbars serves Stastnoy bulvar. Also at ul. Vernadskogo (metro Universitet), traditional southern Indian cuisine and attracts a strong Moe’s Ul. Pyatnitskaya 13, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. Korovy val 9a (metro Oktyabrskaya) and Bolotnaya pl. 16/5 following of faithful Indian expats. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. (+7) 495 953 06 60, www.moesrussia.com. Cheap tex (metro Tretyakovskaya). Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTABSW PTALVSW A luxurious Sunday brunch is undoubtedly one of the mex food plus cheap beer plus all the salsa you could ask highlights of the Moscow culinary scene. Mountains of for equals wonderfulness. That’s the formula Moe’s sticks gourmet food items including oysters, lobster, Kamchatka to and it’s hard to disagree with its genius when every dish crab, roast meats, sashimi, exotic dishes from the Far East comes with free tortilla chips and a variety of salsas. The and of course caviar served up with endless amounts menu offers a choice between tacos, burritos, quesadillas of wine, fresh juice and champagne and a huge sweets and nachos with vegetarian, chicken or meat toppings, as spread for dessert is a treat not to be missed. well as a few soup and breakfast options, and vegetarians will find they’ve as much to choose from as everyone else. Baltschug Kempinsky D-4, Ul. Baltschug 1, Simply pick your option and they’ll put it together straight MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, away, plus you can customise to your tastes what goes in it. www.kempinski-moscow.ru. Q Sun 12:30 - 16:30. Being serenaded as you eat by inexplicable classical guitar Adults 4,900Rbl (alcohol incl.), 3,900Rbl (soft drinks incl.), remixes of pop songs and Christmas carols is the cherry on сhildren under 6 years free, from 6-11 years - 1,950Rbl. the cake (or on the burrito?). Also at pr. Mira 211 (Zolotoy TALEW Vavilon shopping centre, metro VDNKH). QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €. PTAVGSW Holiday Inn Moscow Lesnaya A-1, Ul. Lesnaya 15, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 65 00, www. Navarros Bar and Grill Shmitovsky proezd 23, bldg. moscow-hi.ru. Q Sun 13:00 - 18:00. Adults 2,400Rbl, 4, MUlitsa 1905 goda, tel. (+7) 499 259 37 91, www. children 6 - 12 years 1,200Rbl, children under 6 years navarros.ru. This Latin American restaurant is large, popular free. PTALEW and teeming with the noise of sizzling steaks and bubbly conversations. Salsa dances get going in the adjoining bar. Marriott Grand Hotel B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 26, Portions are generous and bound to keep hungry boys satis- MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www. fied and the preparation of all dishes in general is authentic marriottmoscowgrand.com. Q Sun 12:30 - 17:00. and delicious. Don’t miss out on the house speciality ceviche Brunch in Samobranka restaurant 3,800Rbl (Argentin- (fresh fish with chillis, coriander and lime), it is fantastic and we ian wine), Grand Alexander restaurant 4,200Rbl (French must admit, quite addictive. Navarro’s is far from the metro wine). Children under 5 free, Children age 5 -11 1,200Rbl. so it is advisable to arrive by car. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. €€. PTAEBW PALEBSW

Marriott Royal Aurora C-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www. marriottmoscowroyalaurora.com. Q Sun 12:30 - Eshchyo pazhalusta – 17:00. Adults 3,150Rbl (no alcohol), 3,950Rbl (with alcohol), children under 6 years free, 6-16 years 1,100 One more round please - 2,000Rbl. PT

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 28 Restaurants Restaurants 29

Mama Tao D-5, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 56, MNovokuznets- Tibet Himalaya C-3, Shopping centre Nikolskaya Plaza, Tapa’ Rillas C-1, Strastnoi Bulvar 4/3 (entrance in the kaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 42 49, www.mamatao.ru. A ul. Nikolskaya 10, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 21, yard), MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 41 59, www. reasonable Chinese place with colourful and tasty food and a www.tibethimalaya.ru. The Tibet Himalayan is no secret taparillas.ru. This brightly decorated tapas bar hidden in fair idea of what constitutes a good portion size. It just man- to the expat community as the long-standing venue for the a grungy courtyard just off Pushkinskaya square is a super ages to avoid looking too much like one Moscow’s millions Tuesday night “Curry Club.” What’s more, it offers a Buddha laidback venue for an informal dinner and drinks, especially at of sushi restaurants by merit of an abundance of pot plants bellyfilling, value-for-money business lunch that even the Dalai the weekends when Spanish guitarists wander the tables and which along with the dark wood decor creates quite a laid-back Lama himself would approve of! Though far from the Himala- diners get involved in the inevitable Gypsy Kings sing-a-long. atmosphere. Otherwise, it offers what you might expect from a yan mountains tops, this colourful basement restaurant brings For once the wine is more than reasonably priced, although Chinese restaurant, down to the fortune cookie at the end. Also a note of tranquillity to the bustling metropolis. A different it is easy to rack up a bill by over ordering on the generously at Leninsky pr. 70. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €. PTAESW menu each weekday with soup, bread, a choice of starter and portioned tapas plates. If you are just here for grazing its best main course (often yak meat), rice, dessert, and a drink to to opt for the tasty bite size pinchos, while hungry diners may MEGU A-3, Lotte Hotel Moscow, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. wash it down. Vegetarian and fish options are available, too. prefer to hold out for a huge paella to share. QOpen 11:00 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lotte- A rare opportunity to try Kalmyk specialities a la carte. Also - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PTABSW hotel.ru. Popular in New York’s fine dining circles MEGU brings at pr. Mira 79 (metro Rizhskaya). QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. its flair for finding the finest ingredients with it to Moscow and is quite simply the premier Japanese restaurant in town. Turandot C-2, Tverskoy bul. 26/5, MTverskaya, tel. International Finally here’s the chance to find out what Japanese service (+7) 495 739 00 11, www.turandot-palace.ru. This is as Delicatessen C-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Karetnaya 20, bldg. 2, standards and fine dining are really about. Signature dishes chic as it gets. Exquisite wines, live classical music on a re- MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www.newdeli. such as the irresistible Kanzuri shrimp or the premium Wagyu volving podium, hand painted furniture and a fireplace makes ru. In Moscow it’s often the impossible to find places that turn Kagero Yaki (stone grilled wagyu steak) are emblematic of this a place for all those who need or want to impress their out to be the best and Delicatessen definitely falls into this just how much dedication goes into this food. The volcanic company. The service is remarkably good (they even bring category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building hot stones are taken from remote mountain rivers in Japan, separate tables for the ladies handbags), and professional. 20 (where the coffee shop is), veer left and you will find a colouful the kanzuri chili is specially preserved in snow - and don’t even The bigger main room has high ceilings and is surrounded by entrance way announcing ‘thank you for finding us’. Down in this get us started on the fish! The discreet atmosphere is perfect arches where separate tables can be booked. If you don’t get bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic for business discussions or intimate dinners. QOpen 12:00 a light feeling in your head from the wine, you’ll surely get one foodies dig into an array of the chef’s favourite things. Ceviche, - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTALEW from the orchestra playing on a rotating stage. Rumour has chocolate puddings, homemade pasta and more - the whole it that the cost of building Turnadot exceeded 25US$ million. menu is a success. Some say the pizzas are the best in town, Roni C-2, Ul. Petrovka 20/1, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTALVEBSW others say it’s the nicoise salad. For us feeling you’ve been let 495 625 26 06, novikovgroup.ru. Roni is a very Moscow style in on a great little secret is the real winning element. Reserva- ‘gastropub’ - the staff are certainly less snooty than usual, the tions recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW food is still top quality and the seating has a casual feel to it, but European the chandeliers, low lighting and house music remind you that this Brown Fox and Lazy Dog C-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Samotech- Kalina Cafe С-4, Prechistenskaya nab. 17, MKropot- is still Moscow underneath it all. If you like Asian spices you will naya 13 bldg.1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 684 47 kinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 16 39, www.kalinacafe.ru. love Roni, the menu is imaginative and strongly flavoured. There’s 42, www.fox-and-dog.ru. The Brown Fox and the Lazy Dog The sister establishment of the famous Kalina Bar, this stylish a focus on Japanese cuisine with most dishes cooked on either is one design fanatic’s dream corner café come true. From the restaurant-bar really puts a focus on the food with an adventur- robata grill or the restaurant’s large open teppanyaki iron grill. doors to the tables and even the multi-coloured toilet paper, ous menu led by the creations of the young Italian head chef Korean, Malaysian and Chinese influences are also prominent this trendy little café is a delight for trend-seekers. The music Michele Lanzani. New inventions are always finding their way Mechta Е-5, Ul. Sadovnicheskaya 84, bldg. 3/7, and without a doubt this kitchen really knows what it is doing. is a spot-on hipster’s mix of obscure Brooklyn based bands into the menu but mouth-watering dishes such as the tatar MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 633 21 11, www.mechta- QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PASW and other eccentricities. The most incongruous element here of langoustines with wasabi foam or the tagliatta of beef with cafe.ru. Mechta’s secret lies not so much in a creative menu though is the high number of distinctly ordinary folk - and why grappa are permanent features of the menu by popular de- as the ability to make relatively simple dishes well. Forget not? The menu has some nice pizzas and salads, it’s a stone’s mand. The wine list is extensive and cocktails here are expert. about mousses and reductions - how do you make a piece Cruising the Moskva throw from the metro and in the evenings it’s a charming little With a karaoke room, late night DJs and live music Kalina Cafe of toast taste so good? A place serving an all day breakfast nook to enjoy some quiet cocktails in. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri is also a great venue for glamorous late night drinks - especially with plush armchairs can’t help but be chilled out. Yet it also 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €. PTAEGBSW when the dramatic view of the Moscow river and Red October feels like a proper grown-up dining experience and bar, with factory is lit up. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PALEW a selection of appetising cocktails of cheering proportions. Cafe Tchaikovsky B-1, Triumfalnaya pl. 4/31, MMaya- Then there’s the attentive staff and pleasant decor: this kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 14, www.novikovgroup. Kitchenette С-2, Kamergersky per. 6, MOkhotny Ryad, place pretty much ticks all the boxes. Q Open 24 hrs. €€. ru. A sprawling café and restaurant understandably popular tel. (+7) 495 221 88 47, www.kitchenette.com.ru. As the PTALBSW with theatre and classical music enthusiasts as it is located name suggests, Kitchenette takes popular elements of the right in the centre of Moscow theatre land and literally under- world’s favourite cuisines - French breakfast croissants and Neskuchny Sad B-5, Frunzenskaya nab. 18D, MPark neath the Moscow Conservatory. Dark lighting, leather and crème brûlée, American burgers, Italian seafood linguine, Eng- Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 363 64 64, www.nesad.ru. This mahogany furniture and elegantly dressed waiters create a lish fish and chips - so there’ll be something familiar for everyone restaurant is in a truly stunning location-set atop a renovated pleasantly grand atmosphere although a bit more classical on their menu. Its main venue has the happy advantage of being barge at Frunzenskaya Naberezhnaya opposite Gorky Park, the music on the stereo would perhaps better suit the surround- on the pretty Kamergersky Pereulok, which suits its laid back rooftop veranda has views of the parks on the other side of the ings. Regardless the menu is packed with well-made Russian European bistrot/café feel. The sweet homemade lemonade river and down to the Kremlin. The cool river breeze and cane classics and a wide selection of pizza, pasta, grilled fish and is a good refresher and the slick black and red interior lends armchairs add to the air of being on a luxury cruise. Neskuchny One of the easiest and most appetizing ways to get to the like meaning there’s something for everyone. Tchaikovsky itself to chilled-out afternoons of conversation over a cup of Sad serves classic dishes as well as Italian cuisine, with large know Moscow is to take a dinner cruise with Flotilla Radis- also has an extensive selection of great cakes, pastries and coffee. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW pizzas. The cocktail menu is artisan and extensive- we tried son Royal. Whatever the weather, this fleet of comfortable other desserts. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW the Lychee Martini and the Mango and Rosemary Cointreau vessels offers an attractive menu with a slight Italian MC Traders Restaurant & Bar Novotel Moscow City, Fizz. If you do indulge in the cocktails, please note that the boat accent as it plies a route along the Moskva River, taking Ogni C-1, Mal. Sukharevskaya pl. 8, MSukharevskaya, Presnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 sways slightly on the water, so it’s not just you. Neskuchny in a series of key city sights. Having invited many guests tel. (+7) 495 660 91 17, www.restogni.ru. Ogni gives the 664 89 99, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. On the ground Sad is gaining in popularity with a smart clientele, so do book to Moscow to join us on the route, it’s regularly got the impression at times of both a bar, café and restaurant, spread floor of the brand new Novotel in Moscow City, the MC Traders ahead. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00. PASW thumbs-up, and with winter fast approaching it’s already out as it is into different areas of varying formality. They serve restaurant has a great buffet with hot and cold meals ranging time to start thinking about breaking the ice – literally and up a great selection of European classics such as carbonara from French bread and cheeses to sushi to crème brûlée. It figuratively – over a tasty risotto on the water. or stroganoff and with a simple approach and masterful hand also serves international cuisine, business lunches, and their Sukhoe – Dry Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow A-3, Tarasa everything the chef dishes up will no doubt be swiftly polished own irresistible bitesized Novotel-branded French macaroons. Polusladkoe – Semi-sweet Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, off. Special mention should go to the staff who are by turns The large open plan space is divided into rounded white booth- tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radisson-cruise.ru. flirty, friendly and thoroughly efficient. A good place for some like settings which complement the unusual bright minimalist Sladkoe – Sweet glamour on a budget. Q Open 24hrs. €. PTALVBW design of the bar. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. €€€. PTALW

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 30 Restaurants Restaurants 31

Pelman Hand Made Café B-2, Tverskaya ul. 20/1, Sorriso Osteria and Pizzeria C-2, Ul. Tverskaya MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 68 83, www.pel-man. Italian 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 506 24 44, www. ru. Filled dumplings in all their forms have got to be the world’s Bocconcino С-2, Strastnoy bul. 7, bldg. 1, MTverskaya, pizzasorriso.ru. The real winner here is the pizza - it’s ultimate comfort food, and if that’s your formula for making a tel. (+7) 926 926 59 26, www.bocconcino.ru. Not the long and incredibly thin and arrives at your table straight restaurant you would have to try pretty hard to be anything place to eat with your hands, although the pizza tastes so after being cooked to a crispy delight in a stone wood-fired other than just great. Pelman offers more than just pelmeni - good, you may really want to - the dough is magic: thin crispy oven. There are also other Italian favourites on offer, but there’s also vareniki and international variations on the theme and light. This classy pizzeria’s decor screams Moscow, e.g. we are always tempted by the pizza. The smart staff and such as dim sum, gyoza, ravioli and profiteroles. Whilst 200Rbl the bone and cream coloured faux Tuscan interior, but the a soundtrack that for once does not include songs by Eros will only get you 10 or so pelmeni here, they’re doused in butter cuisine is pure Italy.The toppings are fresh and full of taste Ramazotti adds yet more fresh air to the usual formula. If and full of wonderful calorifical things so you hopefully won’t feel and flavour. Bocconcino never fails to please Italian cuisine you are around Red Square, it’s the ideal choice for watch- cheated. You can opt to take them away or eat in, where the fans and hence has a strong following of faithful regular clients ing the world go by on the buzzing ul. Tverskaya. QOpen jukebox will serenade you with some lively tunes. There’s also who have been visiting for years. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, 12:00 - 24:00. PTASW a ‘complaints wall’ which you’re welcome to write on, though Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALSW we didn’t spot any criticisms on it. This could be because the restaurant’s mascot is the tattooed strongman Pelman, who Il Forno C-2, Ul. Neglinaya 8/10, MTeatralnaya, tel. Steak Houses judging by the photos was born with a moustache, and handy (+7) 495 621 90 80, ilforno.ru. This very centrally located Beeftro Steak House and Burger Bar C-1, Ul. Ts- rolling pins decorate the café’s interior, presumably for dealing Italian restaurant has been around for years and hasn’t let vetnoy bulvar 26, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 545 with dissatisfied customers. Our only complaint? Though Pel- down its standards or its set of regulars customers. Breakfast 43 53, www.beeftro.ru. Aiming to bridge the gap between man is ostensibly ‘fast food’, it wasn’t prepared as quickly as is popular as this is still one of the only places in this part of laidback bistro dining and steakhouse meaty goodness, it might have been, which on reflection is probably a sign that town where it is available at 8 a.m. and weekday afternoons Beeftro has nudged its way in with a relaxed restaurant that your chosen dumplings will be served freshly cooked, straight are also busy when there’s 20% off the whole menu. Il Forno’s also serves top steaks. The ‘1930s retro’ look is bright, from the kitchen. Also at Gorky Park (Ul. Krymsky Val 9, near specialties are its large thin pizzas baked in their signature clean and oh-so stylish and steers well-clear of the usual the Buran space shuttle, metro Oktyabrskaya ). QOpen 09:00 wood-fired oven and the homemade pasta, which inevitably macho steakhouse clichés. The staff, who are trussed up in - 23:00. €. PTAEGBSW leaves your mouth watering for a second helping. Also at ul. trilbys and braces, are another plus point - friendly, efficient Ostozhenka 3/14 (metro Kropotkinskaya). QOpen 08:00 - and well-versed in the intricacies of the menu. The beef is Tsifry E-2, Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka, Ul. 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTALVSW corn-fed organic US black Angus and is very well-prepared Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 and mouthwateringly good and goes particularly well in their 57 78, www.restaurant-numbers.ru. The veranda of the Italianets C-1, Ul. Samotechnaya 13, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, excellent burger and the selection of sauces are winners. Tsifri Restaurant at this five-star hotel on Ul. Pokrovka is a tel. (+7) 495 688 64 01/(+7) 495 688 56 51, www.italian. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW perfect place to relax, with its classic menu and signature ru. It’s a fair old walk from the metro and there’s little in the way cocktails by famous mixologist Max Brodarsky. The menu is of tourist sights, but the journey is worth it if you are hoping to Chicago Prime Steakhouse C-2, Strastnoy bul. 8a, light and experimental, with the novel flavours of its raspberry stumble upon some really top quality authentic Italian cuisine. MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 988 17 17, www.chica- and Coppa salad complimenting traditional Russian dishes The head chef and owner Giuseppe has brought with him plenty goprime.ru. Everyone may tell you it’s the best, and we are such as the soup Okroshka, made with the refreshing rye- of expertise from his native Puglia - the fish is particularly good going to too, after a visit to Chicago Prime you will be left with drink Kvas. The scallops, served with spicy sauce and apple - and believes in mixing up classic Italian ingredients in new no doubt that you have just eaten a very memorable piece puree, seared to perfection, are a reminder of the seashore ways that actually make sense (no silly foams and Asian effects of meat. The rest of the things on the menu like the large in the midst of the city. Relax on the soft white sofas in the here). His dishes are perfectly balanced and in authentic style, salads, lobster consumme and blue fin tuna steak are just as evening, when the veranda hosts live smooth jazz music. Q generously portioned. Family friendly but also with more intimate accomplished and the portions are huge. If you can’t afford Open 24hrs. PTAULESW spaces for romantic diners it’s no wonder they are always busy. to keep up your steak habit, you can also order cheaper yet QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAULVEBSW similarly delectable steak sandwiches and burgers at the bar. Zafferano А-3, Lotte Plaza shopping centre, Novinsky A discreet yet friendly atmosphere complete the winning com- bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 93 05, www. Mamma Giovanna C-4, Kadashevskaya hotel, Kada- bination. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. €€€€. PTALESW zafferanorest.ru. Novinsky Boulevard might not offer the shevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 most inspiring views, but Zafferano’s bright year-round roof 287 87 20, www.mamma-giovanna.ru. This low ceilinged, Goodman B-1/2, Ul. Tverskaya 23, MPushkinskaya, terrace makes up for that. Larger-than-life pot plants and darkly lit restaurant perhaps doesn’t make the best of its tel. (+7) 495 775 98 88, www.goodman.ru. The good in sofas for lounging are complemented by the large array of excellent canal views, but what it lacks in vistas it makes up Goodman says it all. This stylish steak house chain is informal, salads on the international menu. Since this is Moscow you for with its menu and darkly intimate atmosphere. The crispy relaxed, and the food is to be savoured. Great care is put can correctly assume an additional sushi menu; the main pizzas here are particularly delectable and fortunately the into your meal and how it is served. The wood interior plays menu offers a mix of global-influenced dishes and desserts. place is laidback enough that you can go to town on them host to soft leather couches and all the waiters wear chef’s Eastern dishes such as dolma, plov and kebab are prepared with your hands. The mains such as the excellent grilled whites. The lavatories are five star, just like the service. Their with a twist, as are traditional Russian desserts. The biggest tuna are also worth plumping for and will certainly be filling, menu, although predominantly meat oriented, has a hefty draw though of this neatly designed restaurant isn’t just the although desserts are markedly dull in comparison. QOpen chunk of salads and seafood. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. extensive wine list or the berry-filled puddings, but most of 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PTALSW PTALEBSW all its pleasant leafy terrace. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTAESW MoMo D-5, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 66, bldg. 2, MPavelets- Louisiana American Steakhouse D-4, Ul. Pyatnits- kaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.momorest.ru. This kaya 3, bldg. 4, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 Italian restaurant perhaps defines itself a little too narrowly 42 44, www.louisianasteakhouse.com. Ranging from the - although specialising in pizza and homemade fresh pasta, standard rib-eye steak to the deliciously tender flank steak, it has a strong selection of fish and meat too, served in a cuts of veal and lamb, you can choose from Australian, Irish style that wouldn’t be out of place in an upmarket British and American, grain-fed or grass-fed too. Although sides restaurant. Be careful though - the massive choice of seafood such as fries have to be ordered separately, they’re not very comes priced by the 100g, and it’s difficult not to get carried expensive additions, and for the less devoted carnivores, a away! The wine list prides itself on its selection of French and Tex-mex menu and salads are also on offer. Number plates Italian vintages, but its fresh juices look equally appetising. Its from Kentucky, Tennessee and, of course, Louisiana, scat- business-class clientele are dispersed across three rooms, ter the walls, which are also adorned with native American with its most spacious resembling a terrace, complete with models, and one funny ‘high-society’ marriages column from wicker chairs. The other two are more low-lit and glamorous, an old paper. The waiting staff compliment the theme, all and it is in these that MoMo’s plans to function as an exhibi- wearing checked shirts, with the males having gun-holsters tion space for modern photographers will come into play. slung over their waistbands. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PTAVEBSW 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PABS

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 32 Restaurants Nightlife 33

Koffeecake Corner B-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya Moscow never sleeps. And it has everything going under Cafes, Coffee houses and bakeries 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 669 57 75, www.kof- those burning neon signs. Whether you are after an elite Art-Café Publika D-4, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 30, bldg. 1, feecakecorner.com. This American coffee house all the way nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 651 84 05, www. from New York is full of sticky pancakes, chocolatey muffins to shake fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingy dive cafe-publika.ru. Perhaps this place has a little way to go and other happy-making sweet treats. It would be only too easy or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til to earn its self-appointed title of ‘art-café’ (no, putting up to get addicted to their irresistible Nutella coffee and peanut the wee hours of the morning, you’ll not be disappointed. sepia photos of the Eiffel Tower doesn’t automatically make butter hot chocolate (and there are plenty of other shamefully Admission prices are indicated where applicable and you arty). Nonetheless it makes good use of historic building indulgent flavours to pick from). Then of course there’s toasted note that in many places a ‘face control’ (dress code) in which it finds itself; the open-plan style lends itself well to bagels, burgers and plenty of choices even for vegetarians - policy applies. the window-lined room with views of historic Moscow. The it’s not hard to see why Koffeecake Corner has such a loyal international menu is likewise not as creative as you might like following back home. Q Open 24hrs. €. PTAGSW from somewhere like this, but the light business lunch option Bars and Pubs (salad, soup and drink) seems fairly priced at 180Rbl. Q Open Le Pain Quotidien C-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, Bar 69 Bis C-1/2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 9/8, bldg. 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sut 12:00 until last guest. €€. PABS MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 77 42, www.lpq.ru. 7, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 89 84, www.bar- This Belgian bakery with outlets the world over brings its 69bis.ru. For want of a better word we would have to describe Chainaya Vysota E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 27, MChystye rustic down-to-earth bread philosophy to Moscow. Long this joint as just plain random. One minute they’re playing Sting Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 225 59 96, www.cha108.ru. We’re wooden tables, delicious coffee served in bowls perfect for on VH1 Classic and the next, the volume has been cranked up finding it difficult to condense how exciting this place is into dipping your croissant in, Belgian tartines (open-face sand- for a pumping dubstep DJ set. Young hipsters and dreadlocked words! An ice-cream-café-cum-specialist-tea-shop, it features wiches), salads and cheese boards are all on offer. Many hippies share bar space with smartly dressed secretaries, delicate mixes from the minds of local artists such as famous locations have excellent street terraces including this one alcohol is strong and occasionally homemade (ask for their mime Slava Polunin. The available flavours include dandelion just a short distance from Red Square, and all the ‘LPQ’ (as nastoiki if you are looking to get drunk fast) while the décor honey, elk milk, kvass and linseed, with more daring combi- they are affectionately nicknamed by locals) also run great is a mix of battered looking antiques including a massive old nations such as the gorgonzola, bergamot and pear. Menus value lunch deals on weekdays. Has numerous locations punching bag and a Victorian street lamp. Most curious is the are mounted on thick slabs of wood, but not yet in English. across the city including at Evropeisky Shopping Centre, dartboard. We presume it never gets used as it is tacked on However, this could be a bonus - it’s so difficult to choose that Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala (metro Kievskaya), ul. Pyatnitskaya to the back of the main entrance door. With low prices and picking by chance could be easier! There is an equally varied 6/1, bldg. 1 (metro Tretyakovskaya) and ul. Lesnaya 5 (metro the air of a genuine drinkers den, this is a place to get drunk selection of granola, and seaweed-sheet snacks, all in the Belorusskaya). Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Thu - Sat 24hrs. €. in. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 until last guest, Sat 17:00 setting of a bookshop, furnished with clean, simple linen. It PABSW until last guest. To book a table for Sun call (+7) 495 629 89 also has an oriental-style room for tea ceremonies where its 84. PAEBSW 300 kinds of tea can be taken at floor-level, under the gaze Madame Boulanger B-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbats- of an original Yuriy Norshteyn hand-drawn hedgehog. When kaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 19 01. This quaint little French-style Barry Bar C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. out and about don’t miss their stand in Gorky Park opposite bakery and cake shop sells all manner of fresh baked breads (+7) 495 276 07 36, www.barrybar.ru. Barry bar sports a the Buran space shuttle (Gorky Park, Pushkinskaya Embank- and savoury snacks such as quiches, sandwiches, salads and surprisingly stylish interior, despite the now very cliche mous- ment, tel: (+7) 903 010 80 30). QOpen 11:00 - 00:30, Sun pies. On the sweet side there’s plenty to tickle your fancy with tache theme - the floor is covered in striking colourful ceramic 14:00 - 00:30. PTA the classic French éclairs, handmade chocolates, macaroons tiling, which is complimented by unusually shaped lamps, bare- and of course obvious favourites croissants. If you choose brick walls and disco balls over by the DJ area. The clientele tend to eat in you’ll have the extra delight of dining from gorgeous to be well-dressed and groomed and more than a little fashion- Cafe Bar Ekus D-1, Bol. Sukharevsky per. 25/23, Food from Former Republics mismatched antique fine crockery and admire the charm- able as well. During the week it’s a quiet place to hang out with MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 915 106 64 66/(+7) 985 ing interior and musicians are welcome to serenade the other a cocktail listening to some chilled out house and at weekends 157 29 93, www.quevola.ru. Ok we have to admit this place One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet guests on their piano. Drinks are also available to go; cakes and the music and buzz is just about funky enough to justify that does not look like much at all. A tiny bar, a couple of tables past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine other tasty treats can be made to order and delivered to your pretty dance floor which sees some action past midnight. Q with plastic tablecloths and metal chairs strewn about and from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popu- door. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. €. PAGBSW Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PAW the odd sombrero here and there, make you feel like you’re lar both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, in a very poorman’s apartment but if you are looking for but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh Paul A-3, Ul. Arbat 54/2, bldg. 1 (entrance on Garden Bar Strelka C-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Ber- Moscow’s Spanish speaking community and quality South places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which Ring), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 16 38, www. senevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) American music, this is the place. The beer is easily the cold- appears all over the place. paul-russia.ru. This inviting and cosy café, part of French 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. The main head- est in Moscow (they keep the glasses in the fridge), but the Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of bakery and patisserie chain Paul, has fast become a favourite quarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this bar attached to the staff, clientele and inefficient air-conditioning make the place Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled in Moscow. At the counter as you enter you can pick up breads, Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of feel as hot as the owner’s native Columbia. Q Open Mon - Fri kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this sandwiches, pastries and the like to go, or alternatively you regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but is still 18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 until last guest. PENS part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian may opt to squeeze yourself into the petite café area and enjoy notorious for the entrance lineup where they suss out how visitors, making use of the vegetables and pulses na- a meal. Paul has a huge breakfast menu and is great for light hip your outfit is before letting you in. The music is usually a Cafe Retseptor B-2, Ul. Bol. Nikitskaya 22/2, MAr- tive to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes lunches such as quiche or the irresistible croque-madame. On decent house/lounge/electro mix from popular DJs and the batskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 66 86, www.cafereceptor. include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), the sweet side Paul’s pastries are scrumptious authentic French design is very aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortable. ru. Tread carefully down the steep stairs and make yourself satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meat- bites - we especially love the strawberry tarts, chaussons aux The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending at home in this tiny artistic cellar bar. Every inch of the place filled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, pommes and custard pies, whilst their refreshing iced frappuci- on the weekend DJs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, has been customised or graffitied by the regulars giving the herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with nos are a great pick-me-up. Also at Ul. Tverskaya 23/12 bldg.1, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAULBSW whole ensemble a lived in and loved feel. Generally the vibe lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup) and Gruzinsky Val 28/45, Pyatnitskaya ul. 20, Sadovnicheskaya ul. is very mellow, there’s live acoustic folk and jazz music or film Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves). 82 and the new café at Lesnaya ul. 27. Q Open 07:30 - 23:00, British Queen C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 5/6, MTeatral- screenings most nights and at the weekends they bring in Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €. PAVGSW naya, tel: (+7) 495 226 23 23. British Queen wears its funk DJs to liven things up a bit and encourage some cramped monarchist tendencies on its sleeve – from the Beefeater dancing. Wine is a popular tipple as are the exotic teas which Stary Telegraf C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 7, MOkhotny Ryad, doorman to the snug of the Queen Victoria bar, and on into come by the tankard. The varied menu is packed with fresh tel. (+7) 495 506 22 44, www.tverskaya7.com. Open the Queen Mary dining room. But while it looks like a recon- produce in the form of salads, pies and some lesser-known 24hrs, this cafe is good fix at any time of day. If you’ve just struction of a typical British boozer, and it boasts the welcome Asian specialities and has plenty of vegetarian options. arrived from an early train, or you’re on your way home after a sight of beers from Cornwall’s St. Austell Brewery among QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, night out you’ll be pleased to hear that breakfast here starts the usual suspects on tap, closer inspection reveals it to Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PAVW at 06:00 a.m.and runs way on into lunch time. The menu is be surprisingly Russian. Not only is the menu monolingual, it particularly strong in baked goods, pies, sandwiches, crois- also steers away from typical pub grub in favor of the soups, sants and the like while larger mains are also available. Being salads and zakusky of a “Pivnoi Restoran”. Nothing wrong www.fb.com/MoscowInYourPocket so close to Red Square it’s a great refuelling spot while on with that, but an odd decision given the Brit branding. Q the tourist trail. Q Open 24hrs. PASW Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 34 Nightlife Nightlife 35

Chelsea C-2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 12/27, MTver- their long island iced tea was closer to actual tea than to Club Vermel D-3, Raushskaya nab. 4, MNovokuznets- skaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 88, www.chelsea-pub.ru. any long island tea we remember drinking. They play rock kaya, tel. (+7) 499 238 33 03, www.vermel.ru. Although There’s nothing like a great British boozer, as many Moscow music, and after 9pm on weekends, there’s a cover charge. it seems like a standard mood-lit trendy bar upon first entry, imitations have found to their cost. Chelsea is among the latest The place is pretty popular so get in early and eat before the venue is home to bands, cinema evenings and also to attempt to translate the concept, and like most of its rivals it you go. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 until last guest, a restaurant, all compactly organised in the brick-walled manages both hits and misses. A big thumbs up for the bar that Fri - Sun 24hrs. PTAEBS basement space. Having been open for 17 years, and with a greets new arrivals - dark, intimate and unpretentious, it feels director who’s run the place for 10 years, they have worked like a place where fast friendships can be struck over a pint. Look In Cafe C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 9, bldg. 1, on some original twists to standard Moscow clubs. Alongside Applause also for an extensive selection of Sunday roasts, and MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 62 95, www.city- their britpop, rock and indie ‘vibe’, the venue is also home a well presented pint of Boddington’s bitter. But the ambience of cafe.ru. Saying LookIn is a ‘cafe’ is a bit of a con. With this to weekend discos, and markets of handmade items also the main dining room, with its pictures of Maggie Thatcher and lighting and music volume really it’s a bar, although one of sporadically take place. As well as running a business lunch, the Queen Mum, somehow vaults beyond the gastropub target the more tame ones were office workers pop in for lunch the club also offers a ‘business dinner’ on Monday-Friday and lands somewhere uncomfortably close to a tea room, albeit and men eat chicken soups and drink tea in the evening. between 5 p.m. and 8 p.m., and menus are in both English with big screen sport on offer. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PASW The food arrives relatively quickly and is of fair quality for and Russian, with some delightfully funny translations - “don’t the area and the same can be said of the cocktails.The be afraid of ordering a carp!”. Additionally, a ‘house cocktail’ Edward’s Pub Artplay, Ul. Nizh. Syromyatnicheskaya music is that classic mellow mix of chilled house, which containing hand-made horseradish vodka is on offer. QOpen 10, MKurksaya, tel. (+7) 926 358 36 76. It calls itself a mixes oddly with the enticing rock themed posters covering 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun pub, but this tiny place tucked under the arches at the Artplay the whole place. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 16:00 - 24:00. PAESW complex is really more of a cafe which serves beer. This book- - 06:00. ABW lined nook has a feel of faded English grandeur about it, and Gogol Club C-2, Stoleshnikov per.11, bldg.1, MTeat- feels like an attempt to recapture a literary circle in inter-war MyBar D-1, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, ralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. London. That caters nicely to the artsy, studenty crowd which tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79. This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout Something is surely going to happen here, any minute now comes to exhibitions and shows at Artplay. Busier during the with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got that day, the food tends to the snackier end of the market and can philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people backstage energy. From the stage under the circus tent out be in short supply by evening time. However, it makes a nice who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and the beer alternative to Clumba, the main restaurant on this site. Q MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with kiosk that wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor festival Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu - Sun 10:00 - 06:00. €. PASW expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of time, be it and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to long or short, day or night. Bouncers keep everything sane Hard Rock Cafe A-3, Ul. Arbat 44/1, MSmolenskaya, Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music and there are plenty of quiet nooks to escape to if things tel. (+7) 499 241 43 42, www.hardrockcafe.ru. This selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden old- get too hectic near the dancefloor. The music is bohemian is the mac-daddy of American style food and fun. Three ies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the European stuff you probably won’t remember the next day levels of rock memorabilia, a bar downstairs and a central weekend. Thursdays and Sundays are now live music nights but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. dancefloor on the second floor with a DJ booth above. with free concerts from rock and blues bands. The happy hours, PAEBSW Food here is a bit disappointing (this is guacamole?) and charismatic owner and relaxed opening hours (stay as long as you like!) have made it a hit with both locals and stars such as the Crazy Horse cabaret, and of fame Cocktail Bars with his band . Be prepared to queue a little BottleBar D-4, Shopping Centre Pyatnitsky, Pyatnitsky Pub Crawl to get in later on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and per. 2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 646 49 25, the crowd gets lively. QOpen 18:00 until last guest. PAW www.bottlebar.ru. As its straightforward name suggests, Moscow, as the song goes, never BottleBar isn’t trying to be a flashy high-end bar, not a hip dive sleeps. Which is great if you want to Clubs bar, nothing special. What it does do is sell good, inexpensive party all night. But arriving in a new drinks. The cocktails are some generally quite tasty and origi- city can often feel like you’ve been B2 Club B-2, Ul. Bol. Sadovaya 8/1, MMayakovs- nal concoctions which during their happy hours (16:00-19:00 left out of a party which everyone kaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. One of Monday to Thursday) are definitely at ‘go on then I’ll have an- else is invited to: unknown venues, Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live jazz, latino, other one’ prices. Large groups (or foolhardy individuals) can unfamiliar faces… rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven also order sharing cocktails in giant martini glasses. Those That’s where Pub Crawl Moscow bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite in a desperate hurry to down as much alcohol as they can in comes in. Like all the best ideas, it’s a simple one. Gather possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in a short space of time might find it’s not the place for them, a group of like-minded revelers under the guidance of locals just one night - if you can manage to figure your way around as the service runs as what might be termed a ‘laid-back’ who are in-the-know, get everyone dressed up in their finest the labyrinthine interior that is. Students and older locals pace. Whilst their dark, spacious and very faintly pub-like dancing shoes, and lead them out for a night on the town. alike flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and interior doesn’t exactly radiate atmosphere, it’s pleasant It’s the only English-language service of its kind in town, newest bands play at low prices. As well as the jazz club, enough with a few bottle-themed twists, but ultimately, it’s making it an ideal way to meet fellow visitors to the city and disco club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football a bar - it’s not there for the décor. Q Open Mon - Wed 12:00 make new friends over a drink or two. For new arrivals, it’s screenings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a - 24:00, Thu 12:00 until last guest, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 05:30. a great chance to get to know Moscow a bit better, for old cosy courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy night Closed Sun. PAESW hands it’s a chance to explore new bars. For everyone, it’s out. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAEBSW a great opportunity to freshen up your social circle, let your Secret Bar C-2, Stoleshnikov per. 6, bldg. 3 (down hair down and party the night away. The nitty-gritty: tours Club Garage С-5, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, alley behind Jean Jacques), MTverskaya, tel: (+7) 495 run twice a week, on Tuesdays and Saturdays, starting tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.ru. One of 921 07 50, www.secretbar.ru. Who would guess that a from 9pm. The group meets at a central location, usually Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998), Garage discreet door down an alley off one of Moscow’s fanciest on or near Okhotny Ryad metro station. Advance booking packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday / Sunday shopping streets hides one of Moscow’s most popular is essential. Saturday’s tour includes three bars and a R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. Open 24 cocktail bars? They would be even more surprised by the club, Tuesdays offer four bars with two dance locations. hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah menu, Garage democratic door policy and cheap prices! These factors Nightclub dress code – no sportswear, no sneakers, no has something going on at all hours. The crowd tends to be may help explain why Secret Bar (hence the name) is packed baseball caps – applies. Tours cost 600r per person, which young and Russian (although some of the fashion tastes can with a hip and fun-loving crowd on the weekends, and those includes free entry and a welcome drink at each venue as be a little extreme), but the friendly atmosphere and relaxed looking to savour a well-crafted cocktail or hookah during well as the services of the English-speaking group leader, “face control” makes it a fun night out for those who don’t the weeknights. On the busy nights it can take a while to security and a photographer. Guests must be 18 or over, want to deal with the attitude of Moscow’s glamour clubs. get a drink, but the cocktails are worth the wait, and with and bringing ID is recommended – especially for the young Summer terrace is open from the end of April until October. these prices, you can order a few at a time! QOpen 18:00 and beautiful. www.moscowpubcrawl.com Q Open 24hrs. PASW - 06:00. PAESW

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 36 Sightseeing Sightseeing 37

Red Square Must See Moscow Lenin Mausoleum C-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Commu- nist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. Join the super-long queue at the entrance to Red Square nearest to the Alexandrovsky Gardens. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead but you can’t mess with him. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free.

St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) C-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www. saintbasil.ru. Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name of the Khan of , a victory which secured Moscow’s posi- The obvious starting point of any sightseeing trip to The Kremlin from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are trans- tion as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside Moscow is Red Square, the heart of the city with the The Kremlin C-3, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky ferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also worth a iconic domes of the magnificent St. Basil’s Cathedral Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. The street is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western at its helm. Browse the shops and gourmet supermarket plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern 1484- 1485 by artists from , this church notably has European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of of the historic GUM department store, queue up early to of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons catch a glimpse of mummified Lenin and explore the long outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Cath- you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to and turbulent history of Russians in the State Historical erine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history is all Museum. After watching the guards at the Tomb of the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west Unknown Soldier pass through the imposing Kremlin political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the world- Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson walls in the Alexandrovsky gardens and explore the famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristo- on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter. Q Kremlin’s numerous historic churches. If you are feeling architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiasti- tle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 50-250Rbl. flush splash out on a ticket to see the Kremlin armory cal, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s filled with the crown jewels of the Tsars. modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The Take a boat tour. A boat trip down the Moscow easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the river is hands down the best way to see the city and an essential conquest. light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was get a sense for its scale. Boats pass by the majority of held here. Services resumed in 1990. Moscow biggest landmarks and with some tickets you Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took can make a day of it and hop on and off as you wish. Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a The Patriarch’s Palace. Once the home of the Moscow number of ticket booths, the most important being located Patriarch, this grand medieval building is now a museum where Art and literature. For Russian art head straight to in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which ecclesiastical treasures of the Orthodox church are on display the Tretyakov Galleries. The older of the two buildings in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your as well as various precious tableware, furniture, jewellery and houses a stunning collection of medieval to nineteenth tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near clothing used in the court of the medieval Tsars. The building Century paintings, while the equally impressive collection the ticket office, under the gate. also often houses temporary exhibitions. at the modern building on Krymsky val covers Russian art through the 20th Century. The Pushkin Fine Arts A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along The Ivan the Great Bell Tower. The impressive 60 metre high State History Museum C-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Museum is the city’s largest collection of medieval, with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To tower was built between 1505 and 1508. The adjoining belfry Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Right on Red renaissance and early 20th Century European art and visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, was built 15 years later and contains some 20 bells. The biggest Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an exten- tucked in behind the building is the fantastic Roerich jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and bell (the world’s largest no less) however was too big to remain sive foray into Russian history from the ice ages of the mam- Museum filled with the Russian painter’s mystical works. considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an en- in its place and sits to the rear of the tower with a huge crack moths right up to the 19th century. The first floor which runs Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by trance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before in it. In recent years the the belfry has become home to a new up to the beginning of Peter the Great, and the 17th century Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Maya- you enter the Kremlin. high-tech exhibition which illustrates the history of the Kremlin’s holds many relics and artifacts of historical interest. Not just kovsky and Bulgakov – to name but a few – have been changing architectural styles. It is also now possible to climb up the exhibits are of interest, each individual hall complements preserved as museums. Inside the Kremlin the tower (that’s 137 steps to be exact) to admire the view over its in-house exhibition, such as the Novgorod and Vladimir Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster central Moscow and get a close up look at the bells. You must Halls with their vivid reconstructions. Upstairs while it lacks Enjoy the city’s parks. Moscow may be a bustling on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected by a separate ticket for the Ivan’s Bell Tower excursion at the any English explanation, has an abundance of cool historical metropolis, but it also one of the greenest cities in Eu- in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan excursion office before you enter the Kremlin and you can only tit bits. Like the boots big enough to hide a small child which rope. In the south of the city you can enjoy the medieval ar- I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance go up the tower at the time indicated on your ticket. are worn to get through a swamp and were worn in Peter the chitecture of the well cared for Museum feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white Great’s. The elegant side of Russian life is given slightly more Estate or the crumbling charm of Catherine the Great’s stonework. space than the peasantry but their role in history garners them Tsaritsino. Stretching along the Moscow river Gorky Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the several rooms toward the end demonstrating Russian customs Park and the Neskucnhy sad was always the people’s Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Kremlin Cathedral Square (5 museums-cathedrals, and revolutionary activists such as the Decembrists. There park and is especially loved by families, if your feet can Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by the Patriarch’s Palace) 100-350Rbl. Excursions 2,000- are English leaflets that you can request from the counter as take it the latter is also a good jumping point for a climb Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are consid- 2,500Rbl + admission. Ticket for Ivan the Great Bell you enter that cover the first floor, but not unfortunately the up the Sparrow Hills to enjoy a panoramic view over ered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that Tower 500Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl second. There is a 2hr audio guide (one hour for each floor) at Moscow. To the north the stately palaces of Kuskovo prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must a cost of 300Rbl. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. and Arkhangelskoe offer a glimpse into how Moscow’s buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls. Closed Tue. Admission 60-440Rbl. Guided tours for up to 15 nobility used to live in the days before communism. all worked on them. people by prior arrangement. PAU

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 38 Sightseeing Sightseeing 39

Danilov Monastery Danilovsky Val 22, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 14 80, www.msdm.ru. This classical Russia’s fascinating history monastery, named after its founder, Alexander Nevsky’s son The red colonnaded build- Danil, has been in the news of late with the return of their ing just beyond the statue original 18 church bells from Harvard in the US. The Soviets of Pushkin on Tverskaya ul. sold them off for scrap but a benevolent American, Charles is now known as the State Crane rescued them. The bells were recently returned due to Museum of Contemporary the efforts (and cash no doubt) of Faberge egg rescuer, Viktor Russian History. On display Vekselberg. was the last monastery to be are many of the objects from closed under the Soviets and the first to be reopened under when it was called the Revo- Gorbachev in 1983. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission free. lution Museum, including some unique original artifacts Donskaya pl. 1, MShabolovskaya, from this turbulent period. In a fascinating twist, the building was tel. (+7) 495 952 49 01, www.donskoi.org. The late six- not originally built for this edifying purpose, but between 1831 teenth century saw the founding of this well-kept monastery, and 1917 was home to the English Club, one of Russia’s first originally part of Moscow’s fortifications. The surrounding gentlemen’s clubs- proof that the expatriate life in Moscow is brick walls include twelve towers with the main entrance being not the historical novelty we often assume it to be. decorated by bright frescoes as you enter. Formerly the head- The beauty of the original interiors has been restored in quarters of the until 1927, today it a series of rooms which show the Club’s intention to be is a peaceful abode surrounded by pleasant parklands and a a Temple of the Enlightenment, as images of the muses hub of religious activity very popular with pilgrims who come decorate the chandeliered ceilings. The Club was a place for to visit the 16th Century miracle working icon and the holy members to dine, play cards and discuss the events of the relics of St. Tikhon. Inside the day in an atmosphere of free-thinking not readily found else- monastery grounds are bi- where. The Club’s library held a number of foreign books and zarrely, a few tanks in honour newspapers, whose distribution was often strictly controlled of the Church’s efforts in the by the tsars. Card games were played in the ‘Infernal Room’, Great Patriotic War (WWII), so named because the fates of many of the serfs owned by although the real draw of these powerful aristocrats were often decided here as they course is the stunning 16th placed bets on their estates. Century churches. The ad- The club was known by many literary giants of the day, joining cemetery is also a including Tolstoy who described it in War and Peace: “The worthy historical site dating majority of those present were old, honored people with deep, back to the 17th Century. self-assured faces, fat fingers, hard movements and voices.” Excursions can be organised Another regular visitor was the famous poet Pushkin, who was around the walls and towers. more than once banned from the club for non-payment! An Q Open 07:00 - 19:00. exhibition of memorabilia related to the club in a second room Churches and Monasteries Admission free. displays pictures of its members, some of whom took part Andronikov Monastery Andronevskaya pl. 10, in the Decembrist uprising in 1825. The club suffered from MPloshchad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 678 14 67, www. Novodevichy Cemetery Luzhnetsky proezd 2, financial difficulties towards the end of the century, and had rublev-museum.ru. Originally founded in 1320, this mon- MSportivnaya, novodevichye.com. This is the Who’s to lend out parts of its premises to other businesses. During astery is famous for its icon painting , Andrei Rublyev Who of Russia. Anyone who was anyone is here. Given the World War One, the rooms looking out over who lived and died here in the early 14th century. Rublyev is Russian adoration for statues and immense monuments, it is became a military hospital. The club was finally disbanded the poster boy of Russian icon painting having worked on the a fascinating place and hunting around for the famous graves in 1917 to make way for the ‘Red Moscow’ exhibition, whose icons of the Kremlin’s Cathedral of Annunciation and other is almost as much fun as actually finding them. Chekhov’s loud red and black poster is also on display here. These churches. Today there is the Cathedral of the Saviour, and simple and modest memorial is in stark contrast to the many rooms, which for a century had been an aristocratic haunt, the museum named after Rublyev is housed in the adjacent Soviet megaplinths. Notable graves include Stalin’s wife, were now visited by the Muscovite proletariat for a revolu- Chapel of St. Michael Archangel. It’s about half the size of Mayakovsky, Gogol, Eisenstein, Khrushchev and Yeltsin. Q tionary education. Today the museum is open to all who are Novodevichy and it has a quarter of its crowds. Q Open 11:00 Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission free. interested in Russia’s fascinating history. - 18:00. Closed Wed and last Fri of the month. Admission free. Novodevichy Monastery Novodevichy proezd 1, State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian Cathedral of Christ the Saviour C-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26, www.shm.ru. History B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Start early in the day with This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look like. place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, con- This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, voluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. 2000 and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the home. Buy your candles to the left of the entrance way, photos of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524. It was at Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the former and souvenirs to the right. The walls are decorated with lists of Novodevichy that Peter the Museum of Revolution. Now that history has moved on, so battles and awards. Those who perished or were awarded in Great imprisoned his sister has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent the war with Napoleon in 1812 are also inscribed once more Sophia and executed her history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms upon the walls. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on supporters from the Streltsy to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant rebellion. Today it is a mag- the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped nificent and peaceful cloister the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great music skyscraper they had originally planned for. During excursions with an impressive icon col- section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles. Q Open (minimum 10 people) you can see the cathedral, museum and lection. Be sure to look at 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. the view from the collonade. As it is a working place of wor- the fascinating nearby cem- Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. ship women are expected to cover their heads and everyone etery too while you are here should dress conservatively. No cameras or mobile phones and take a stroll around the should be used. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00-18:00. picturesque pond beyond Dva bileta, pazhalusta – Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to10 the walls. Q Open 09:00 - people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call +7 495 637 28 47). 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. Two tickets, please

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 40 Sightseeing Sightseeing 41

Fyodor Shalyapin’s Memorial Estate B-2, Novinsky Radisson Royal River Cruise Museums bul. 25, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 605 62 36/(+7) Your Passport to Moscow All-Russia Decorative Art Museum C-1, Ul. Del- 499 255 98 64, www.shalyapin-museum.org. Fyodor egatskaya 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 Shalyapin’s name and voice rings out over Russian theatri- 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Hidden in a courtyard, this museum cal cultural history like no other - he is essentially the Anna maintains more than 200 000 pieces of decorative and folk Pavlova of the opera world. Finding fame in roles such as art from all over the Russia. There are several beautifully and Don Quixote, he performed to immense decorated tea sets, plates and figurines - the porcelain from acclaim across Europe, thanks partly to his participation in the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Diaghilev’s 1909 Russian Seasons. This 18th Century house Also featured are some traditional Russian clothes, toys, which he had restored and made his Moscow home, is full intricate wood baskets, and linens. The wood of relics from the famous friends such as Rachmaninov and figurine carvings are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The Levitan who met him here and stands as a beautiful example Tourism in Moscow is getting more and more user- museum also displays interiors and antique furniture taken of early 20th Century style, full of exquisite bureaus, chaise friendly with every passing year, and the newly-unveiled from the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th lounges, silk wallpaper and even an old gramophone. QOpen Moscow Pass scheme is the latest step towards making A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best to 20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excur- 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Russia’s capital easier to explore. Borrowing a model ways to see the city from its very centre, with unparal- sions in English are also available. The museum’s frequent Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 150Rbl. UW familiar from many European capitals, the Moscow Pass leled views of the sites on both banks. Casting off, we temporary exhibitions are also worth checking out. Q Open offers free entry to 13 museums and two city tours, leave behind the Moscow International Business centre. 10.00 - 18.00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00 Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed making it the perfect passport to get to know the place Beside the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the second tallest Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 200Rbl.Guided for first-time visitors. of Stalin’s ‘Seven Sisters’. Across the river is the ‘other tours at to 15 people 1,500Rbl. From the Red Square show-stoppers of St. Basil’s Ca- White House’, the house of the Russian government. A thedral and the State Historical Museum to the intriguing few minutes’ sailing takes us to the Novodevichy Con- Calligraphy Museum Park Sokolniki, 5y Luchevoy Pr. contemporary exhibitions at the Multimedia Art Museum, vent. Under its walls, Tolstoy’s Kitty and Levin of Anna 2, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel: (+7) 495 728 77 58, www. via on obligatory tipple at the Museum of the History of Karenina met whilst skating, in reality, its cemetery calligraphy-museum.com. This small museum in Sokolniki Vodka, there’s something for everyone. And the special houses the graves of Chekhov and Yeltsin and many Park takes visitors on a global journey of this little-publicised pass – which is available for one, three or five days – also others. Its pink and white baroque walls are faced by art and shows that it is still alive and well in the days of Times enables visitors to fast-track to the front of Moscow’s the thickening forest of the opposite bank, leading into New Roman and Comic Sans. Words in themselves have long infamous lines to get into the top attractions. Sparrow Hills park. held an almost sacred place in cultures throughout the world, For an introduction to Moscow, visitors can explore by The silhouette of a hammer and sickle peeks out above and there’s something very mesmerising about watching road or river: the card includes free trips on the Moscow the treetops, a glimpse of the gargantuan structure of calligraphy masters at work in the museum’s video display. In City Sightseeing Bus Tour and the Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow State University, the world’s tallest educational this exhibition we see better-known examples of calligraphy River Cruise (three- and five-day cards only). Both trips building and the ‘big sister’ of the seven. Passing Luzhniki from the bold brush strokes of Chinese characters to the make it easy to get a feel for the city’s highlights and Stadium, we reach the green banks of fashionable Gorky ornate golden free-flowing threads of Arabic, as well as Old history while someone else does the navigation. Park. Beyond this is the Central House of Artists, home Church Slavonic icons and modern interpretations and more Art lovers can gain enjoy a rare chance to explore the to a branch of the Tretyakov gallery. obscure scripts such as the curvy forms of Georgian and the subtleties of Socialist Realist art, so beloved of Soviet At the diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny Canal neat rounded hills of Armenian letters. Commentaries from commissars and finally getting a long-overdue reas- stands the controversial statue to Peter the Great mark- modern calligraphers accompany their works and give an GULAG History Museum D-1, Ul. Petrovka 16, sessment at the Institute of Russian Realist Art, while ing three hundred years of the . Its creator, insight into why the art of writing beautifully still holds such a MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.gmig. the Schushev State Museum of Architecture – long one Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed the recon- fascination for them. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 ru. The full comprehension of the GULAG is a discomforting of In Your Pocket’s favorites – mixes exhibitions of the struction of the Church of Christ the Saviour opposite. - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 150Rbl. experience to say the least and the lack of English will do grand designs of the 20th century with photo displays Looking at its imposing domes, it’s hard to believe that little to prevent you from being thoroughly chilled by the from around the world, all housed in a pre-revolutionary this was once a gigantic outdoor pool. Cosmonautics Museum C-1, Pr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tragic story this museum has to tell. There are three parts; mansion with an atmospheric ruined attic extension. On Bolotny Island, towering over the rainbow-coloured tel. (+7) 495 682 57 60, www.space-museum.ru. Tu c k e d a documentary part showing the repression of different Older art is also represented by the Museum of Rus- arches and golden domes of the St Nicholas church, under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s race to the groups such as the church and the kulak peasants. Artistic sian Icons, featuring examples of some of the earliest is the House on the Embankment, built to house the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things responses to the GULAG from ex-prisoners adorn the walls, religious paintings of the Orthodox Church. Soviet elite. During the Purges nearly three hundred of cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits entrance and staircase and there is a reproduction of a GULAG Meanwhile, if all that history and culture is getting a bit its inhabitants were executed; it gained the nickname from both side of the Atlantic, the interior of part of the Mir barracks, punishment cell and officers rooms downstairs. The heavy, there’s plenty of hands-on relief to be found at ‘Stalin’s Smile’. space station to explore, photos and documents from famous fact that this part is sealed off and the guide has to escort the Museum of Soviet Arcade Machines where gamers From the river we’ve got perfect views of the Kremlin and cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty of artworks you here adds sobriety and realism to the exhibit. QOpen can check out where it all began and try their hand at the churches huddled inside it as we arrive at the heart relating to man’s obsession with conquering space. The 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the veterans of the USSR’s video gaming scene such as of Moscow and perhaps Russia itself. Even after half a stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space, Belka and Strelka, sit month. Admission 150Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people ‘Morskoi Boi’ (Sea Battle) or the unique ‘Gorodki’, a millennia St Basil’s idiosyncratic domes are still breath- proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew around the earth in. 300 - 600Rbl per person plus admission, should be booked computerized take on an ancient form of Slavic skittles. taking; legend has it that its architects were blinded to There’s also a café serving space food and some 3-D shows in advance by phone (+7) 495 621 73 46. It’s a retro treat. stop them making something so beautiful ever again. (for which you have to pay extra). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu As well as sightseeing, the pass also offers discounts Atop the Stalinist House on the Kotelnichesky Embank- 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200 - 350Rbl. Pushkin Fine Arts Museum C-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12, at several restaurants around town and cut price places ment, two windswept larger-than-life figures look out into MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www. on an assortment of walking tours adapted to match the glorious Soviet future. We’ve come a long way from artsmuseum.ru. Opened to the public in 1912, this museum the interests of any visitor. These include exploring the the shining towers of the Business Centre, almost all was primarily intended as an educational facility. Coming palatial and learning about the history the way to ’s blue star-studded from the fashion of that time, it houses a lot of the world’s and symbolism of the subterranean cathedrals of the domes as we make our way back upriver. art in the form of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old city center, a night-life tour with a difference or even a Masters and representatives of various European schools chance to commission your own guide to tailor a trip for Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow A-3, Tarasa of painting. 1924 saw the first addition of a picture gallery, your personal passions. Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from Cards can be ordered online at www.moscowpass. tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radisson-cruise.ru. Q the 19th century. It’s a manageable museum, but be sure to com, and delivered anywhere in the city. They are also It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit side on sale at Sheremetyevo Airport, the “I Love Moscow” also be bought online). Boats leave 13:00 - 21:00. Boats by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old plastery outlet in GUM and at dozens of hotels and hostels around are sometimes hired out for private parties so check the cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate wing for the city. A one-day pass is 999 rubles, three days costs departure times in advance.Tickets for adults 900Rbl, which there is a separate admission charge. QOpen 10:00 - 1499 rubles and five days is 2499 rubles. Full details children 650Rbl, first class 2,000Rbl. AUKW 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may of offers and availability can be found at the website. vary according to the exhibition.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 42 Sightseeing Sightseeing 43

USSR Museum All Tours Around Moscow Russia Exhibition Cen- Take note that most museum Writer’s museums tre (VVTs), pavilion No2, ticket offices close one hour before Chekhov Museum B-2, Ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya Free Moscow Bus Tours C-2, main bus stop Pr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, the official closing time 6, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, www. near Metropol Hotel, MTeatralnaya, +7 916 564 tel. (+7) 495 765 51 goslitmuz.ru. Chekhov never went out of favour even during 4274, freemoscowbus.com Moscow Free Tours offer 44, www.museumussr. the Soviet years. His museum opened here for the first time a great way to see the city on a budget whilst finding out ru. Simple yet cheerful, MMOMA (Moscow Museum of Modern Art) C-2, in 1953, and underwent a spring clean in 2003. The objects interesting facts and anecdotes about Moscow and its a child-friendly museum Ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 28 remain authentic, a little too authentic when you see the tiny history. The tour guides are passionate and personal and for all about Soviet mate- 90, www.mmoma.ru. Based in three locations, this building metal bed he slept on. It was from this red castle-like house are really good at engaging with those doing the tours. rial culture. Short on floor is the main hub of the MMOMA and its great garden of witty that he left to go on his epic jaunt to Sakhalin, at that time the They really want you to have a good time because then space and drawn-out ex- sculptures by Tsereteli (Moscow’s contemporary art guardian journey took around three months. It was also here that the you’re more likely to tip! The website is clearly set up planations (in Russian and and self-promoter) offers an impressive introduction to the music lover, who lived with his mother, brother Mikhail and and the booking process simple. The tours cover many English), the USSR Mu- contemporary Moscow art scene on the way in. The museum’s sister Maria, received patients, continuing his work as a doctor. of the main attractions Moscow, and did I mention it’s seum manages to pack in aim is to preserve Russia’s avant-garde tradition and they are Tchaikovsky came to thank him for the personal dedication in absolutely free?! Just don’t forget to book beforehand. a strong collection of Soviet memorabilia: from arcade constantly adding to their collection of Malevichs, Filonovs his book Gloomy People. Also upstairs there are exhibitions Walking tours are also available. game machines to domestic electronics, household items, and the like. Moving closer to the present day the permanent following the life of the great writer, a surprising number of toys and games and movie posters. A reconstructed com- collection also carries much non-conformist art from the late photos and a display showing different dramatic productions munal apartment puts the museum’s talent for arranging Soviet period, as well as new stars of the Russian art scene. of his plays around the world. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu its collection in perspective. The real gems are for Soviet Other exhibition halls at Ermolaevsky per 11 (metro Maya- 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 100Rbl. car and motorcycle enthusiasts: Pobeda (Victory), ZAZ-965, kovskaya), Tverskoy bul. 9 (Pushkinskaya), Gogolevsky bul. 10 Muravey scooter trike and the “Ural” motorcycle, where you (Kropotkinskaya). Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Dostoevsky Memorial Museum Ul. Dostoevskogo can watch an old car chase on film in the sidecar. For those Closed third Mon of the month. Admission 150Rbl. Entrance 2, MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 681 10 85, www. too squeamish to visit the real thing, there’s a reconstruc- may cost more for special exhibitions. goslitmuz.ru. Dostoevsky is usually associated with St. tion of Lenin’s mausoleum. A great museum for children Petersburg but in fact he grew up in Moscow. His father was given the absence of security guards and glaring eyes. MMAM (Moscow Multimedia Art Museum) B-4, posted to the city’s hospital for the poor and this small apart- Be prepared for musical accompaniment. Photography Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 ment, attached to the hospital, was given to him and his family. permitted. QOpen 10:00 – 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 – 20:00. 11 22, www.mdf.ru. This new contemporary space focuses The austere rooms are demonstrative of Dostoevsky’s lower Admission 250Rbl. exclusively on photography and video art and regularly hosts middle class upbringing and are carefully tended to by the great exhibitions many of which make particularly good use of Dostoevsky-loving museum staff. The second undecorated Tchaikovsky and Mos- the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central hallway wing of the flat houses a collection of banned illustrations cow A-2, Kudrinskaya pl. and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with its clean white lines made for his books in the 1930s as well as the desk (filled City Sightseeing Moscow Buses leave from 32 46/54, MBarrikadnaya, and staircases, vaguely reminiscent of New York’s Guggenheim with his notes), where he wrote the novel Brothers Karamazov. (Route 1) and 18 (Route 2) different stops in the city tel. (+7) 495 690 25 88/ or the MOMA. A great addition to Moscow’s burgeoning contem- Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Wed, Thu 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. centre, tel. (+7) 495 227 79 96, www.hoponhopoff. (+7) 495 691 15 14, www. porary art scene. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Admission 150-300Rbl. Admission 70 - 100Rbl. ru. Bright red double-decker tour buses are prowling glinka.museum. Dedicated Moscow’s streets, giving visitors a great view of the city to the life, times and music center. The Hop On-Hop Off tour offers excursions around of the man who brought the town in eight languages, and guests can buy a 24-hour world Swan Lake, Sleeping ticket and jump on and off the buses as often as they like, Beauty and , in theory using any stop on either of the two routes. In the operas practice, it’s usually easiest to gather at the main stops and The Queen of Spades near the Pushkin Fine Arts Museum, the Tretyakov Gallery and of course the 1812 Over- or the Bolshoi Theatre – this is where buses tend to wait ture. It‘s kind of an endless longest. The shorter ‘red route’ takes just over an hour list once you get going. This Moscow apartment where he and circles the city center, staying close to the Kremlin lived briefly in the late nineteenth century is now home to a walls and taking in a stretch of the leafy Boulevard Ring collection of photos and musical memorabilia, family photos, while the longer ‘green route’ also goes over the river and Tchaikovsky’s devoted guides. The guide and the tour are for views of two of the Stalin-era Seven Sister skyscrap- provided free of charge but in Russian so if you don’t under- ers. Both tours include the ‘greatest hits’ of Moscow’s stand Russian, take along a translator. They do know more unique and unforgettable city center, with its distinctive than you can read about not only about Tchaikovsky but the architecture, intriguing museums and exciting cultural life. musical scene of Moscow at that time. Tchaikovsky’s various Buses usually run at 20-minute intervals, depending on friendships are also enumerated here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Adults WINTER SCHEDULE OF BUS TOURS the traffic situation. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun and Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 100Rbl. UW 600 holidays 10:00 - 20:30. Tickets cost 600Rbl for adults, (16 - 59) (October-April) 500Rbl for children (those under 5 years old travel for free), RUB senior citizens and students. Tickets are valid for 24hrs. Modern Art Centres Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture B-5, Chidren (5 - 15) "Golden Domes of Moscow" city tour Gorky Park, ul. Krymsky Val 9, MOktyabrskaya, tel. 10:00-19:30 weekdays (+7) 495 645 05 20, www.garageccc.com. Founded by Seniors (60+) 500 Russian socialite Daria Zhukova, Garage is one of the most Students RUB 10:00-20:30 weekends and holidays successful contemporary art spaces in Moscow. Currently in a temporary premises in the fashionable Gorky Park, the gallery now focuses on smaller yet cutting edge exhibitions from both home and abroad while work is underway on a permanent building also in the park. There are also regular lectures, film screenings and art performances, master classes in their new education centre and an excellent cheap café and bookshop. Q Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. Excursions in English, French, German by prior www.city-sightseeing.ru Tel.: +7(495) 22-77-996 arrangement.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 44 Sightseeing Shopping 45

Gorky Memorial Muse- Bulgakov’s Moscow um B-2, Ul. Mal. Nikits- Gifts and Souvenirs Russian Souvenirs kaya 6/2, MArbatskaya, Chainy Dom Perlova D-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 19, In Mikhail Bulgakov’s tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, MChistye Prudy, Turgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 625 46 There are dozens of traditional souvenirs you can bring most celebrated mas- www.imli.ru. Designed by 56/(+7) 495 624 71 02. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun back with you from Russia. Top everyone’s list is usually terpiece the Master and one of Russia’s most cel- 10:00 - 20:00. A a Russian doll, but there are a lot more other things worth Margarita, Moscow and ebrated art nouveau archi- spending your money on too. its streets and buildings tects - Fyodor Schechtel - in Prosto Tak D-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. feature prominently and 1900, the Ryabushinsky +7 499 755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. QOpen 11:00 - Matryoshka’s fans of the writer and Mansion is most famous as 21:00. AKW Russian dolls are the quintessential Russian souvenir. his eponymous novel the former home of writer Usually painted with the cute faces of a Russian girl or can still find many of the Maxim Gorky. This magical stylised family, you can also get them painted with dicta- locations described in building is full of beautiful Shopping Centres tors of the world, former US presidents or even just left the book have survived stained glass windows, a GUM С-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 plain to paint yourself. Prices will usually depend on the to this day. spectacular marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite carved 43 43, www.gum.ru. A trip here is essential - this elaborate number of dolls and the intricacy and range of colours oak paneling and is worth visiting just for aesthetic rea- three arcade structure with three tiers is constructed from of the design. Patriarch’s Ponds sons. There is extensive written material available in each limestone, marble and granite and was first built in the 1890s. “At the hour of the hot spring sunset two citizens room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AK Lacquer Boxes appeared at the Patriarch’s Ponds”. Thus opens the in décor and ornaments and there are some stories about Russian lacquer boxes are some of the finest Russian book’s first chapter titled ‘Don’t talk to strangers’. The the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Lotte Plaza A-3, Novinsky bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. handicrafts still produced in Russia. Creating the distinc- pleasant Patriarch’s Ponds area (B-1, MPushkins- Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the (+7) 495 641 25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. Korean group tive shiny black layer using many coats of lacquer and kaya) remains to this day the number one pilgrimage Writer’s Union, that list includes everyone from Mayakovsky Lotte made a strategic move when choosing this spot for then painting on the front minute scenes from Russian destination for Bulgakov fans and recently a street to Tolstoy. Q Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last this ‘deluxe class’ (in their words) shopping centre, a short fairytales and folklore, requires very skilled masters. sign picturing the devil’s evil entourage has appeared Thu of the month. Admission free. walk to both the New and Old Arbat. Its seven floors offer Usually the real ones feel a lot heavy than regular painted in homage with the warning ‘Don’t talk to strangers’ all the expensive handbags and shoes you could dream up, wooden boxes and should have the signature of the artist written on it in Russian. Lev Tolstoy Memorial whilst in the basement is high-end, highly priced supermarket both sides of the lid. Estate in Khamovni- Azbuka Vkusa selling a large range of tasty goods and all the The Mikhail Bulgakov Museum ki Ul. Lva Tolstogo 21, food items it can still be a struggle to find in Russia. QOpen wood crafts B-1 Bolshaya Sadovaya 10, flat 50, MMayakovs- MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 10:00 - 22:00. LKW The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further kaya, www.bulgakovmuseum.ru. Bulgakov’s Moscow 499 246 94 44, www.tol- in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that flat where he wrote most of his works became one of stoymuseum.ru. The house Metropolis shopping center Leningradskoye shosse the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then the unofficial alternative artistic centres of Moscow where Tolstoy and his family 16/4, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www. comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts during the perestroika era and the stairwell and the flat lived after leaving his family metropolis-center.ru. The western style mall to beat all at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite itself was constantly plastered in graffiti and unusual estate and moving to Mos- other western style malls that are dotted around across tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they drawings. Nowadays ‘the odd flat’ has been cleaned up cow in the 1881 has been Moscow. What makes this one so great? It’s filled with high are said to be very good for your hair. and turned into a small museum where you can catch kept in pristine condition. You street brands, a massive supermarket, has a bowling alley, occasional concerts and discussion groups as well as almost expect them to come pool hall and cinema on the top floor and, best of all, it is right see some of Bulgakov’s original belongings. What would inside and sit down to dinner next to the metro. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW have been the Variety Theatre (where Satan stages or Sofia Tolstoya to serve tea Biblio-Globus Bookshop M his magic show) can be found nearby in the garden at from the samovar or to see Okhotny Ryad С-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, Okhotny Torgovy Dom Biblio - Globus С-2, Ul. Myasnits- Bolshaya Sadovaya 16. Note that the original theatre Leo stomping up the staircase to his study to write a few Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. If you can find kaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 781 building underwent a complete remodeling since the more pages of War and Peace. This place makes clear how your way around in here, you’ve made it in this town. Confu- 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. This famous bookstore novel was written. the family spent their time, including displays and exhibits of sion central, this is a spawling place that has everything you Q has one of the best foreign language selections in the the shoes that Tolstoy made himself. Open 10:00 - 18:00. need - it just takes a long time to find it! Maybe that is part city. On the second floor most European languages Bulgakov’s grave Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, last of the plan so that all customers stay and shop longer. There are covered, with French, English and German books M Luzhnetsky proezd 2, Sportivnaya, novodevichye. Fri of the month. Admission foreigners 60 - 200Rbl. is a food court on the ground floor with a range of ready food making a particularly strong presence, and there’s also com. Bulgakov died in 1940 shortly after completing the options from sushi to fried chicken to sandwiches, perfect Q a limited selection of Chinese and Japanese literature. Master and Margarita which despite his best efforts he Pushkin Memorial flat for when you’ve done the Kremlin and want a snack. Open They also stock a lot of maps, Russian textbooks and M AULKW failed to get past the oppressive Soviet publishers. He B-3, Ul. Arbat 53, S- 10:00 - 22:00. Russian fairytales for kids. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, was buried in Moscow’s Novodevichy cemetery and to molenskaya, tel: (+7) Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW this day his fans regularly tend to his grave and leave 499 241 22 46, www. Tsum С-2, Ul. Petrovka 2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) fresh flowers in his memory. Be sure to ask someone pushkinmuseum.ru. Given 495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru. Spritely, designer loving for directions to his grave as it is not obviously sign Pushkin’s unfortunate de- Tsum has all the labels you’ve ever seen and then some more posted - if in doubt Chekov’s gravestone is also in the mise in a duel fighting for you’ve never heard of. It’s also a good place to hunt down same area of the cemetery. his wife’s honour, it seems designer fur. Women’s fashion is on the third floor; men’s on fitting that the house where the second; and children’s and youth fashion on the fourth. he spent his honeymoon is The cafe on the top level also has a sushi menu as Russian now a memorial museum. fashionistas can’t get enough of it! QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Moving into the Arbat street Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AK house at the beginning of February, he even held his Yeliseevsky С-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, stag night here. In a bid to tel. (+7) 495 650 46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. The flagship engender some of the atmosphere of the time, the rooms are store of the nineteenth century gourmet merchandiser and im- filled with portraits of his contemporaries and letters although porter Grigory Yeliseevsky is now home to a wonderful shop. not a lot of Pushkin’s belongings remain in situ apart from his The grand interior has been restored to its pre-revolutionary writing desk. The desk with his ink stand with a negro boy glamour with gold bolsters, mirrors and sculptured mouldings. standing between two gold cotton bails is the star feature. The ceilings are as high as at theatre. Stocked here at reason- English texts are provided to give a little extra clarity. Q Open able prices are a variety of imported chocolates, biscuits and 10:00 - 18:00. Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the other foodie gifts and there are also well-stocked seafood month. Admission 20 - 120Rbl. and cheese deli counters. QOpen 24hrs. A

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 46 BUSINESS directory EXPAT AND lifestyle 47

Moscow is Russia’s business and financial capital and count- less businessmen have lost and made millions in this town. Tax and Legal Services The Expat Experience Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services C-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203B, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) Interview with media/ or using it to find their way round the city. Last year I was Accountants and Consultants 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Tax and Legal Services marketing specialist and sitting in a waiting room in one of the international clinics Deloitte A-1, Ul. Lesnaya 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) specialisists. Deals with all aspects of reporting, accounting, tax founder of our In Your and started to talk with an expat who was director of a 495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com. compliance and company registration, full cycle legislations and Pocket visitor guides in multinational company in Russia. When I told him I worked Ernst and Young D-3, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bld. 1, legal translations, expat and family paperworks and fiduciary Russia: Charles Hoedt. for In Your Pocket he said: “Are you kidding? Your magazine MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com. services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A helped my wife and me survive in Moscow the first year, QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tell us something about we could not do it without you.” KPMG Presnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na yourself? naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 Recruitment About my business or private How do you spend your free time in Moscow? 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru. Antal Russia B-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, off. 104, life? Both? Well, the two get Working and eating! I love going out for dinner and Moscow MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 962 367 68 55, www.antalrussia. mixed together in Russia any- has much to offer. For Russian food Dacha na Pokrovke is com. Antal Russia is a British discipline-focused search and way. I have been working in one of my favourite places. I like biking along the Moskva Business Clubs and assosiations selection recruitment firm based in Moscow. In March 2008 Russia for more than 15 years. River, the parks and the city centre. Gorky and Sokolniki Association of European Businesses A-1, Ul. Kras- Antal Russia was acquired by FiveTen Group - a truly global I met my wife at a party in St. parks are my favourite. And no, it is not dangerous to bike noproletarskaya 16, bldg. 3, entr. 8, tel. (+7) 495 234 recruiter covering key sectors and disciplines of professional Petersburg where I lived for almost 10 years. She is Dutch in Russia. Hey, I’m Dutch, I was born on a bike. 27 64, www.aebrus.ru. staffing. The Group operates across 23 cities, 13 countries too! So we had to travel all the way to Russia to find love. Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce E-3, Pok- and four continents. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. In your current job as director of NufficNeso you rovsky bul. 4/17, bldg.4b, MChistie Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 And love is mixed with business in Russia? promote the Netherlands amongst Russians. What 917 90 37, www.finruscc.fi. Yes, you can say that! With Bonnie, my wife, I started the do you think about promoting Russia? Russian-German Chamber of Commerce (Deutsch- International Schools/Preschools In Your Pocket in St. Petersburg ten years ago. There was Promoting Russia… I wish I could do that. It is such an easy Russische Auslandshandelskammer ) C-5, 1-y Ka- The English International School (NEI Magister) no good English-language magazine about culture, events, job but every time they fail. While the country has so many zachy per.5, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www. Zeleny pr. 66A, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 301 21 04, restaurants, clubbing and expat life in Russia. There wasn’t opportunities. For some reason the country is often negative vdw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. www.englishedmoscow.com. English day school for kids even any information for tourists. We wanted to share in the press. For a successful country or city marketing cam- The American Chamber of Commerce B-1, Ul. aged 3 all the way up to 18. They follow the English curriculum all the nice places we liked. Bonnie has a background in paign there should be the same awareness on all levels. And Dolgorukovskaya 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. and offer IGCSEs and A-levels and preparation for studying in tourism and I in media, so during a pub-crawl one night you should do what you preach. Russia can make big step by (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru. the UK. The main focus of the school is on languages, art, we looked each other in the eyes and said: why aren’t we abolishing visas for tourists. This would be good for its image, The Moscow Irish Business Club , www.moscow- music, IT and sport. The school works hard towards organis- going to start it? We first published St. Petersburg In Your good for the economy and the service sectors. Nowadays irishclub.ru. ing engaging after-school activities too like drama clubs and Pocket in 2003 and in 2008 we began making inroads into people want to decide today where they are travelling to The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce C-1, Ul. school trips. There is also a second primary school (ages 3-11) the Moscow market. tomorrow. Due to the visa regime Russia is missing this large, Tverskaya 16/2, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 located in west Moscow at Molodogvardeyskaya ul. 9, metro ever growing target group with lots of money in their pocket. 60, www.rbcc.com. Kuntsevskaya. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Is doing business in Russia difficult? You have to know the ways. You need to have a good Rus- St. Petersburg or Moscow? sian network here. There is a big difference between what That’s a nasty question… I feel home in St. Pete, but also is written and what actual practice is. The first draft for in Moscow. Russians say you can’t love both, but I do. My our publishing company we made around the kitchen table favourite region is , especially which I with Russian lawyer friends advising us. And be prepared dived into for the first time in 1996. And I enjoy being on for surprises every day! I still feel extremely happy when I Sochi’s Black Sea coast, a region with such a rich history. see people using In Your Pocket, reading it in restaurants The Russian honey and wines there are really great!

Medical and Dental Clinics Expats Clubs American Medical Centres D-1, Prospekt Mira, 26, American Women’s Organisation, awomoscow@ bldg. 6, entr. from Grokholsky per., MProspekt Mira, tel. gmail.com, www.awomoscow.org. (+7) 495 933 77 00, www.amcenter.ru. Q Open 24hrs. A Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI) European Medical Center В-2, Spiridonievsky per. 5, tel. (+7) 916 825 3352, [email protected], www. bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel: (+7) 495 933 66 55, www. gdaymoscow.com. emcmos.ru. QOpen 24hrs. A British Women’s Club, [email protected], GMS Clinic Ul. 2-ya Yamskaya 9, MMaryina Roshcha, www.bwcmoscow.co.uk. tel. (+7) 495 781 55 77, www.gmsclinic.ru/envers. Q Dutch Community, [email protected], www. Open 24 hrs. PTALW nederlandse-vereniging-moskou.ru. International Women’s Club, iwcmembership@gmail. com, www.iwcmoscow.ru. US Dental Care C-2, InterNations, www.internations.org/expats/home/ Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka russia/moscow. 7/5, bld. 2, MTeatral- Moscow Hash House Harriers, tel. (+7) 985 364 99 naya, Okhotny Ryad, 36, moscowharriers.itgo.com. tel. (+7) 495 933 86 Moscow International Choir, moscow.international. 86, www.usdentalcare.com. Well-established and [email protected]. long-respected American Board-certified dentists and MosKultInfo (German-Language Community hygienists. They speak English and Russian, have a full Newsletter) www.moskultinfo.de. range of general, specialised and children’s services and Moskva Accueil (French Women’s Club), www. extensive cosmetic services and emergency care. The site-moskva-accueil.org. clinic itself is spotless, high-tech and very centrally located. Nigerian Community Russia, nigeriancommunity@ Direct billing and Corporate membership available. Q Open yahoo.com, www.nigeriancommunity.ru. 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. PAW SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational Associa- tion), [email protected], www.swea.org.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 48 EXPAT AND Lifestyle Getting Around 49

Buying Train Tickets For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train sta- tion. If you don‘t speak Russian, it is a good idea to find out the number of the train you want. This is where the Russian Railways website www.rzd.ru can come in handy. If you can read Russian or get a friend to help, you can view timetables, buy tickets online and then just print them out at the ticket machines in the station. Their English version doesn’t allow purchases yet. Other options are to buy through a ticket or travel agency in Moscow. Remember that if you are buying a ticket for anything other than a local train you will need to show your passport details, so that they can be printed on the ticket. Train Stations Railway information hotline, www.rzd.ru, (+7) 800 775 00 00. (Russian only) Belorussky Station A-1, MBelorusskaya, www.belo- russkiy.railclient.ru. Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad. This station sends trains to Public Transport Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress train. Moscow’s system of buses, trams and trolleybuses, as well as Kazansky Station E-1, MKomsomolskaya, kazanskiy. its world-famous metro, can now all be used with just one united railclient.ru. Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tash- ticket that is valid for all forms of transport and which can be kent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond. bought in the metro ticket offices. It’s definitely worth getting Kievsky Station A-4, MKievskaya, kievskiy.railclient. a multi-journey ticket (you can get 11 journeys for 300Rbl) as ru. As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bu- it both saves money and is simple and convenient. If you need charest and Kishenev. This station sends trains to Vnukovo to buy single journeys you can get them once on the bus or Airport via the Aeroexpress train. tram and it costs 30Rbl. Make sure you get on the bus/tram/ Kursky Station E-3, MKurskaya, kursky-vokzal.ru Local trolleybus from the front so you can pass the ticket-operated trains depart from the right hand side of the station (first floor). turnstile. The metro is fast and efficient and is the second Leningradsky Station E-1, MKomsomolskaya, busiest in the world after Tokyo - you’ll rarely have to wait long leningradskiy.railclient.ru Hub for trains going north to for a train. Operating hours are from 05:30/06:00 until 01:00. Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg. To enter, swipe the metro card then go through (the barriers will 30.11 Saturday Paveletsky Station D-5, M Paveletskaya, paveleckiy. hit you if you don’t swipe the card first!) Plan your trip in advance Moscow Expat Lifestyle Club 10:00 – 16:00, Winter Bazaar railclient.ru. This station sends trains to Domodedovo on www.metroway.ru (interactive) or www.mosmetro.ru. A-4, Radisson Slavyanskaya Hotel, Pl. Evropy 2, MKi- Airport via the Aeroexpress train. A new expat club appeared in the capital! With the main evskaya, www.iwcmoscow.ru. The International Women’s Rizhsky Station MRizhskaya, rijskiy.railclient.ru. You’ll purpose to give you and your family round-the-clock Club Moscow is turning 35 and starts this special anniversary come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia. Ta x i s assistance with all your needs. Membership of the club season with their annual event, the IWC Winter Bazaar! Ex- Yaroslavsky Station E-1 M Komsomolskaya, yaro- The powers that be are now hard at work trying to better provides you the benefit of savings in services like real plore the diverse stands and discover some exotic holiday slavskiy.railclient.ru. To the Golden Ring and beyond - all regulate the taxi industry and make the service better for estate, concierge services, insurance assistance, a gifts as well as nostalgic goodies from home. Experience the way to Vladivostok. you the passenger. However, as can be true anywhere in premium access to VIP events and much more. You can the diversity of different cultures. Enjoy the atmosphere of the world, taxi drivers can sometimes be unscrupulous and join the lifestyle club for free and purchase the expat card classy, multinational surroundings. Take a stroll through the over charge you so to avoid conflicts over taxi meters etc for extra services on what Moscow has to offer! For more warm and fragrant lanes of the winter bazaar and let yourself Car Rental try to agree on a price before hand. It is also a good idea to information go to www.expatinrussia.com get carried away by the awaiting program. The IWC Winter Avis Russia Car Rental, tel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, book a taxi in advance to ensure you get a reasonable price. Bazaar is definitely worth a visit! Q Entrance fee 200Rbl. www.avisrussia.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. ‘Taxi’ is a term to be used loosely in Russia, with many Hertz A-1, 1-ya Brestskaya ul., 34, MMayakovs- locals still preferring to flag down ordinary cars as part of kaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 08 89, www.hertz.ru. QOpen an unofficial informal taxi service. Since 2011 the unofficial Russian for Expats Fryday in Moscow 09:00 - 21:00. taxi service has been made illegal and drivers can be fined Na vore i shapka gorit – The thief’s hat is burning for ferrying people around the city for cash, although due This expression means that someone always gives himself to a continuing lack of official taxis in the city the practice away through guilty behaviour or appearance. This phrase Getting around still thrives. To foreigners travelling in an unmarked car may can also be found in Hebrew, which may mean it entered the seem unsafe and you certainly should exercise caution if you through the Jewish community. The legend Where is the…? Gdye…? Где…? decide to opt for the Lada experience. goes that there was a thief on the loose but no one could Is it far? Eta daleko? Это далеко? Stand by the road and stick out your arm - not your thumb. catch him. Then one day at some kind of celebration, where Right/left Napravo/nalyevo Направо/налево Be cautious, trust your instincts and always agree a price all the locals were gathered, a wise elder yelled out – ‘the Looking for a chance to unwind and kick off the weekend Straight ahead Pryamo Прямо in advance. Such drivers are notorious for overcharging thief’s hat is burning’ and the man who quickly removed his with some like-minded company? Sure, Moscow is full of Ticket office Kassa Касса foreigners - a journey within the city centre should usually hat was of course the culprit. great bars, but it’s not always easy to dive into the city’s Open/closed Otkryto/zakryto Открыто/ cost anything between 250 and 500Rbl. Try to avoid using Liden & Denz A-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg.1, entr. nightlife on your own – which is where FryDays comes закрыто very large denominations and asking for change. 6, office 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 in. The idea is simple: those interested in an informal Entrance/exit Vkhod/Vykhod Вход/выход If you are looking to pick up a taxi at the train station, head 49 91, www.lidenz.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed gathering over a drink or two, make arrangements via the Push/pull Ot sebya/k sebe От себя/к себе to the RZD taxi booth. If travelling to the airport 1,500Rbl is Sat, Sun. A group’s Facebook page and pick out a different bar every Ticket Bilyet Билет a perfectly reasonable fare. For shorter trips around the city few weeks. The Moscow edition is one of several all over Return (ticket) Tuda i obratno Туда и обратно centre expect to pay 300 - 500Rbl. Europe, and the original FryDays founders – a pair of expat Entrance Vkhod Вход запрещен forbidden zapreshchon Taxi Shanson tel. (+7) 495 925 75 13, Swedes in Kiev. For more details, see www.facebook. No smoking Ne kurit Не курить com/fryday.moscow/info. www.tshanson.ru. Formula Taxi tel. (+7) 495 777 57 77

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 50 Getting Around Getting Around 51

Street Register

1905 Goda ul. A-1/2 Golutvinsky per. (1y) C-4 Merzlyakovsky per. B-3 Shchepkina ul. D-1 A Goncharnaya nab. E-4 Milyutinsky per. D-2 Sivtsev Vrazhek per. B-3 Akademika Sakharova pr. D-1/2 Goncharnaya ul. E-4 Miusskaya pl. B-1 Skatertny per. B-2/3 Alexandra Nevskogo ul. А/B-1 Goncharny per. (2y) E-4 Mohovaya ul. C-3 Smolensky bul. A-4 Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. E-4 Gorokhovsky per. E-2 Molochny per. B-4 Smolenskaya ul. A-4 Apakova pr. C-4 Granatny per. B-2 Monetchikovsky per. (2y) D-5 Sofiyskaya nab. C-3 Arbat ul. B-3 Grokholsky per. D-1 Monetchikovsky per. (3y) D-5 Soymonovsky proezd B-4 Armyansky per. D-2 Gusyatnikov per. D-2 Monetchikovsky per. (5y) D-5 Solyanka ul. D-3 B I Monetchikovsky per. (6y) D-5 Spasonalivkovsky per. (1y) C-5 Bakhrushina ul. D-5 Ilinka ul. C-3 Moskvoretskaya nab. D-3 Spiridonovka ul. B-2 Balchug ul. D-3/4 Ipatyevsky per. D-3 Myasnitskaya ul. D-2 Spiridonyevsky per. B-2 Bernikovskaya nab. E-3 K Mytnaya ul. C-5 Sretenka ul. D-1 Bersenevskaya nab. C-4 Kadashevskaya nab. C-4 N Sretensky bul. C-1 Bobrov per. D-2 Kadashevsky per. (1y) C-4 Neglinnaya ul. C-2 Stanislavskogo ul. C-2 Bogoyavlensky per. C/D-3 Kalanchevskaya ul. E-1 Nikitsky bul. B-3 Staraya pl. C-3 Bol. Afanasyevsky per. B-3/4 Kalashny per. B-3 Nikitsky per. C-2/3 Starokonyushenny per. B-3/4 Bol. Balkansky per. D-1 Kazachy per. (1y) C-5 Nikoloyamskaya ul. E-3/4 Staromonetny per. C-4 Bol. Bronnaya ul. B-2 Kazachy per. (2y) C-5 Nikolskaya ul. C-2/3 Starosadsky per. D-2/3 Bol. Dmitrovka ul. C-2 Kazakova ul. E-2 Nikolsky per. D-3 Stary Tolmachevsky per. D-4 Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. A-4 Kazansky per. C-5 Nizhnyaya Krasnokholmskaya ul. Stoleshnikov per. C-2 Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. A-1/2 Kazarmeny per. E-3 E-4/5 Stolyarny per. A-2 Bol. Karetny per. C-1 Khilkov per. B-4 Nizhnyaya Krasnoselskaya ul. E-1 Strastnoy bul. C-1/2 Bol. Kazenny per. E-2 Khlebny per. B-3 Novaya Basmannaya ul. E-1 Sushchevskaya ul. B-1 Bol. Kharitonyevsky per. E-2 Khokhlovsky per. D/E-3 Novaya pl. D-2 Sytinsky per. B-2 Bol. Kiselny per. C/D-2 Khvostov per. (1y) C-5 Novinsky bul. A-2/3 T Bol. Kislovsky per. C-3 Kievskaya ul. A-4 Novokrymsky pr. B-5 Tarasa Shevchenko nab. A-3 Bol. Kozikhinsky per. B-2 Klimentovsky per. D-4 Novokuznetskaya ul. D-4/5 Tatarskaya ul. D-5 Bol. Kozlovsky per. E-2 Kolpachny per. D-2/3 Novokuznetsky per. (1y) D-5 Teatralny proezd C-2 Bol. Levshinsky per. B-4 Kompozitorskaya ul. A/B-3 Novokuznetsky per. (2y) D-5 Teterinsky per. E-4 Bol. Lubyanka ul. D-2 Komsomolskaya pl. E-1 Novoryazanskaya ul. E-1 Triumfalnaya pl. B-1 Bol. Molchanovka ul. B-3 Komsomolsky pr. F-6 Novy Arbat ul. A/B-3 Trubnaya ul. C-1 Bol. Nikitskaya ul. B/C-3 Konyushkovskaya ul. A-2/3 O Trubnikovsky per. A/B-3 Bol. Ordynka ul. D-4/5 Koptelsky per. (1y) D-1 Obydensky per. (2y) B-4 Tryokhprudny per. B-2 Bol. Palashevsky per. B-2 Korobeynikov per. B-4 Okhotny ryad ul. C-2/3 Tsvetnoy bul. C-1 Bol. Patriarshy per. B-2 Korovy Val ul. C-5 Olimpiysky pr. C-1 Tverskaya ul. B-1/2 Bol. Polyanka ul. C-4/5 Kosmodamianskaya nab. D/E-4 Ostozhenka ul. B-4/5 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (1ya) Bol. Sadovaya ul. B-1/2 Kostyansky per. D-1 Ovchinnikovskaya nab. D-4 A/B-1 Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. C/D-5 Kotelnicheskaya nab. D/E-4 Ozerkovskaya nab. D-4 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (2ya) Bol. Spasskaya ul. E-1 Kotelnichesky per. (1y) D-4 Ozerkovsky per. D-4 A/B-1 Bol. Staromonetny per. C-4 Kozitsky per. C-2 P Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (3ya) Bol. Strochenovsky per. D-5 Krasina ul. A/B-1, B-2 Paveletskaya pl. D-5 A/B-1 Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. D-1 Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) C-3 Petrovka ul. C-2 Tverskoy bul. B -2 Bol. Sukharevsky per. D-1 Krasnaya presnya ul. A-2 Petrovsky bul. C-1/2 U Bol. Tatarskaya ul. D-4/5 Krasnopresnenskaya nab. A-3 Petrovsky per. C-2 Usacheva ul. F-6 Bol. Tatarsky per. D-5 Krasnoproletarskaya ul. B-1 Pyzhevsky per. C-4 Ustyinsky pr. D-3/4 Bol. Tishinsky per. A-1 Krasnoprudnaya ul. E-1 Pl. Nikitskie Vorota B-2 V Bol. Vlasyevsky per. B-4 Kremlevskaya nab. C-3 Plotnikov per. B-3 Valovaya ul. D-5 Bol. Yakimanka ul. C-5 Krivokolenny per. D-2 Plyushchikha ul. A-4 Varsonofyevsky per. C/D-2 Bol. Znamensky per. B-3/4 Kropotkinsky per. B-4 Podkolokolny per. E-3 Varvarka ul. C-3 Bolotnaya nab. C-4 Krutitsky per. (3y) E-5 Podsosensky per. E-3 Vasilyevsky spusk pl. D-3 Bolotnaya pl. C-4 Krutitskaya nab. E-5 Pogorelsky per. C-5 Vasilyevskaya ul. A/B-1 Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) A-3/4 Krymskay nab. B-5 Pokrovka ul. D/E-2 Vasnetsova per. C-1 Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) A-3 Krymsky proezd B-5 Pokrovsky bul. E-3 Verkhnyaya Radishchevskaya ul. Brestskaya ul. (1ya) A/B-1 Krymsky Val. B/C-5 Pomerantsev per. B-4 E-4 Brestskaya ul. (2ya) A/B-1 Kursovoy per. B/C-4 Posledny per. D-1 Verkhnyaya Syromyatnicheskaya Brodnikov per. C-4/5 Kutuzovsky pr. A-3 Potapovsky per. D-2 ul. E-3 Butikovsky per. B-4 Kuznetsky most ul. C/D-2 Povarskaya ul. B-2/3 Volhonka ul. C-3/4 C L Pozharsky per. B-4 Vorontsovo pole E-3 Chayanova ul. B-1 Lavrsky per. C-1 Prechistenskaya nab. C-4 Vorontsovskaya ul. E-4/5 Chistoprudny bul. D/E-2 Lavrushinsky per. C-4 Prechistensky per. B-4 Vozdvizhenka ul. B/C-3 Chisty per. B-4 Leninsky pr. F-6 Presnensky val ul. A-1/2 Voznesensky per. B-2 D Leontievsky per. B-2 Prospekt Mira D-1 Vspolny per. B-2 Delegatskaya ul. C-1 Lesnaya ul. A-1 Pushechnaya ul. C/D-2 Y Dobryninsky per. (1y) C-5 Lubyansky proezd D-2 Pushkinskaya nab. B-5 Yakimanskaya nab. C-4 Dokuchaev per. D-1 Lyalin per. E-2/3 Pushkinskaya pl. C-2 Yakimansky proezd C-4 Dolgorukovskaya ul. B-1 M Pyatnitskaya ul. D-4 Yauzsky bul. E-3 Dubininskaya ul. D-5 Mal. Bronnaya ul. B-2 Pevchesky per. D-3 Z Durasovsky per. E-3 Mal. Dmitrovka ul. B-1/2 R Zemlyanoy Val ul. E-2/3/4 Durova ul. C-1 Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. A-2 Raushskaya nab. D-3 Zhitnaya ul. C-5 E Mal. Karetny per. C-1 Romanov per. C-3 Zhukovskogo ul. E-2 Ermolaevsky per. B-2 Mal. Kozikhinsky per. B-2 Rozhdestvenka ul. C-2 Znamenka ul. B/C-3 Eropkinsky per. B-4 Mal. Nikitskaya ul. B-2 Rozhdestvensky bul. C/D-2 Zoologicheskaya ul. A-1/2 F Mal. Ordynka ul. D-4/5 Runovsky per. D-4 Fadeeva ul. B-1 Mal. Polyanka ul. C-5 Rybny per. C-3 Filippovsky per. B-3 Mal. Sukharevskaya pl. D-1 S Abbreviations Furmanny per. E-2 Mal. Yakimanka ul. C-4 Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. B/C-1 Ul. - Ulitsa G Mal. Znamensky per. B/C-3 Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. A/B-2 Per. - Pereulok Gagarinsky per. B-4 Manezhnaya pl. C-3 Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. E-1/2 Pr. - Prospekt Gazetny per. C-2/3 Manezhnaya ul. C-3 Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul. B-1 Pl. - Ploschad Gilyarovskogo ul. D-1 Marksistskaya ul. E-4 Sadovnicheskaya ul. D-3/4 Bul. - Bulvar Glazovsky per. A/B-4 Maronovsky per. C-5 Sadovnichesky proezd D-3 Nab. - Naberezhnaya Gogolevsky bul. B-3/4 Maroseyka ul. D-2/3 Samotyochnaya ul. C-1 Bol. - Bolshaya Golikovsky per. D-4 Mashkova ul. E-2 Serebryanicheskaya nab. E-3 Mal. - Malaya

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 52 Getting Around Getting Around 53

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 54 Getting Around Getting Around 55

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 56 Russia st. petersburg 57

History

9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus con- tinues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462. 17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great mar- Introduction ries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a Russia is undisputedly the world’s biggest country. Its sheer program of legislative and educational reform. size guarantees that no other country even comes in at a Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business 1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. close second. While most visitors primarily make visits to and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days Churches and Cathedrals 1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs. the two capitals – Moscow and St. Petersburg – the country and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of his- 1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food has much more to offer. West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city easily tory of St. Petersburg) Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is Bordering 16 countries, it is 17,075,400 square kilometres navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty. MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmu- quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German. large with a population of 143 million and a territory that Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside pan- seum.ru. Q The fortress is open 06:00 - 22:00. Museums 1917 – 1924: Following the February and October Revo- encompasses nine time zones and 83 regions, so one oramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Entrance lutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of naturally can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the sheer and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy to fortress is free. ULK Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. choice of sites on offer in such an enormous country. But, at any time of year. Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood Nab. kan. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into it goes without saying that while many of the most exciting For a more comprehensive guide look out for our St. Peters- Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and events in any given country occur in their capital cities, its burg In Your Pocket print guide or check out the online version www.cathedral.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 Closed Wed. after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad. soul often lies elsewhere. This is especially true in Russia. at st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com Admission 50-250Rbl. 1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts Russia features ancient towns filled with architectural Kazan Cathedral Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. until 1941. ensembles and churches completing visually fantastic (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. QOpen 1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and landscapes, quaint and calm towns located on the banks of The State Hermitage Museum 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admis- the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy enormous rivers, and enough natural beauty – forests, lakes, With over three million works of art and treasures housed in sion to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in and mountains – to satisfy anyone looking for a break from five connected buildings along the river, the Hermitage advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28. 1943. Germany surrenders in 1945. the hustle and bustle of city life. is quite simply one of the greatest museums in the world. St. Isaac’s Cathedral Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MNevsky pr., 1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people While much of the major investment – and attention Give yourself plenty of time to take it all in as you wind your tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Q Open 10:00 died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. – in the last decade has poured into Moscow and St. way through the opulent state rooms of the Winter Palace. - 22:30. Closed Wed. Colonnade open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets for In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him. Petersburg, capital has trickled into the provinces as well The museum’s vast art collection covers all of the greatest the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission 1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space. at a considerable clip. Although the level of development in European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn’t Cathedral 250-350Rbl. Colonnade 150-300Rbl. 1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposi- provincial towns is still not on pace with the largest cities, miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Rapha- tion, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer but that is also part of the adventure. It is here that one can els of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with Olympics. experience how average Russians live and imagine the past, works by the old master is another must as are the nearby Luxury Train to St. Petersburg 1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the present, and future of their country. Autumn is a magical El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the North- Communist Party and calls for reforms including per- time of year as the trees change colour before your eyes Degas, Matisse and the gang are all up on the top floor while ern Capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The estroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness). and you can enjoy the last of the sunshine before ice and the ‘small Hermitage’ wing contains a priceless collection of cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every 1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected presi- snow enclose the landscape. Culturally, the new theatrical Greek, Roman, Persian and Egyptian artefacts. night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After dent of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis season has started and the cities are full of new shows, being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have al- and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privati- exhibitions and concerts. Hermitage Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from ready been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, zation shaking the country. In each subsequent issue we will select a few destinations Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky 1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin be- within striking distance of the city’s capitals that make 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. QOpen 10:30 you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such comes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more excellent detours into the beauty and wonder of provincial - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. Russia. Some can be enjoyed as one-day getaways, while Audioguide 350Rbl. when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and 2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President others are full weekend trips. We would argue that no trip coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladi- to Russia is fully complete without a visit to a provincial city, moment during the trip you experience some problems mir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat. whether it be one of the wonders of the Golden Ring cities, Ballet and Opera you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your or one of the ancient Russian settlements, such as Pskov St. Petersburg has a very strong ballet and opera tradition bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in or Veliky Novgorod. It was in these towns that the idea of and is home to one of the world’s most celebrated theatres, Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Russia was first enunciated and enacted. Of course, a wider the Mariinsky Theatre, headed by superstar maestro Valery Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomols- selection of cities can be found on our website. Gergiev. If you can’t get a ticket for the Mariinsky then head kaya) at 00:54 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 09:00. For In this issue we have selected many interesting cities. St. instead for one of the performances at the highly respected reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at Petersburg, of course, needs no introduction as the cultural Mikhailovsky Theatre. www.megapolis-te.ru capital of Russia. The other cities are: Veliky Novgorod, one of Russia’s early trading settlements and Nizhny Novgorod, Mariinsky Theatre Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., Russia’s fifth largest city located on the banks of the tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Q Admis- River. We include Sochi, the host city for the 2014 sion 300-6,000Rbl. Winter Olympics and one of our latest online additions, Mikhailovsky Theatre Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., Petrozavodsk, a quiet city located in the beauty of ’s tel. (+7) 812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Q Ticket wilderness about 500km north of St. Petersburg. office: daily 11:00 - 19:00, break 15:00 - 16:00. In St. Petersburg please look for our print guide in hotels Grand Philharmonic Hall Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, or check us out online and download our free iPhone MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www.philhar- app. at: www.inyourpocket.com/russia/st-petersburg monia.spb.ru.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 58 st. petersburg st. petersburg 59

televisions listing information for any conference groups in Getting to St. Petersburg Hotels attendance. Each of the standard rooms have everything AZIMUT Hotel St. Petersburg C-4, Lermontovsky the modern businessperson or tourist could need or want, There are dozens of night trains travelling every day pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, while the beds and linens make getting out of bed a real between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them www.azimuthotels.com. This hotel is right on the banks challenge. Amenities include a brightly hued 24 hour fitness modern and upscale like the Megapolis, and others more of the Fontanka river, with many of the rooms overlooking centre, underground parking and a Mediterranean restaurant suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there the impressive Troitsky Cathedral. More than 1000 rooms with a view of bustling Ligovsky. Q195 rooms (Room prices are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) are available over 18 floors with 318 of them having been start at 6,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast 900Rbl. which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel recently fully renovated into SMART Deluxe rooms. This is PHAUFLGKW hhhh daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. the tallest building in this part of the city and shortly the new There are also of course frequent flight connections Sky Bar will be re-opened with the most amazing panoramic D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s views of St. Petersburg. Q1037 rooms (Room prices start MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandho- Pulkovo airport. at 2,400Rbl). HALGKW hhhh teleurope.com. Occupying the full length of Mikhailovskaya Street, this palatial historical hotel has it all. Suites themed Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West around personages, places and institutions dear to the heart Blockade History Pushkin Hotel Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance of St. Petersburg are gorgeously designed down to the last During World War II when the city was known as Leningrad via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 detail. There are also five top-notch restaurants including its people suffered the worst siege in modern history. In the 610 5000, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. This the popular Caviar Bar (the only one in the city). Three royals Leningrad Blockade Museum you can learn about how business-focused hotel has a whole floor of conference space visited in 2011 – Queen Sofia of Spain, Queen Margrethe II the blokadniki struggled against the desperate cold and and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms, and Queen Paola of Belgium. Q276 rooms (Room prices start starvation while at the Rumyantsev house you can see the including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable at 11,200Rbl). VAT and Breakfast (2,000Rbl) are not included. original heart-breaking diary of the young siege victim Tanya and well-equipped. There is a large lobby, a bar and two res- PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhhh Savicheva. At the Piskaryevskoye cemetery you can pay taurants; one of them, the reasonably priced Bierstube, brews your respects to the millions who died as a result of the siege, four sorts of beer. There‘s also a small gym on the third floor. Novotel St. Petersburg Centre Ul. Mayakovskogo 489,000 of whom are buried here. Ten minutes walk from the Mariinsky Theatre. Q273 rooms 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www. (Room prices start at 3,800Rbl). Breakfast (850 Rbl) and accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located just off Nevsky Blockade Museum D-2, Solyanoy per. 9, MCherny- VAT are not included. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh pr, Novotel belongs to the Accor chain of hotels and offers shevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 75 47, blokadamus.ru. a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. Pe- Piskaryevskoye Memorial Cemetery Pr. Nepokore- Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky Ligovsky tersburg hotel market. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant nnykh 72, MPl. Muzhestva, tel. (+7) 812 297 57 16, pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www. adjacent to the lobby. The rooms are modern, and comfort- pmemorial.ru. crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. Done up in warm beige and able. The hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-the-art Rumyantsev Mansion C-2, Angliskaya nab. 44, MSa- brown tones the small lobby contains a round the clock conference rooms and a fitness centre. Q233 rooms (Room dovaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 44, www.spbmuseum.ru. concierge desk, a lounge with art deco accents and the prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast reception desk which is conveniently headed by flat screen 850Rbl. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh Further Afield There is no time like autumn to catch the best of St. Peters- burg and the surrounding parks and estates. The trees offer a spectacular range of colours as their leaves turn red and golden with the last heat of summer. Enjoy the last weeks of sun before winter sets in by visiting the parks and palaces around St. Petersburg.

Oranienbaum (+7) 812 450 52 87 www.oranien- baum.org. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 18:00, closed Mon. Admission to park and palaces 70 - 140Rbl.

Pavlovsk (+7) 812 452 21 55, www.pavlovskmuseum. ru. Q Palace open 10:00 - 18:00, closed first Mon of the month. Admission 200 - 450Rbl. Park open daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl.

Peterhof (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum. ru. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Admission to park 50 - 450Rbl. Visiting of palaces: 10:30 - 12:00, 14:30 - 16:15, closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission to palaces 300 - 550Rbl. Find more information online.

Pushkin (+7) 812 466 66 69, www.tzar.ru. Q Catherine park open 07:00 - 23:00. Admission to park 50 - 100Rbl. Catherine palace open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 21:00, closed Tue. Admission 100 - 320Rbl. Visiting of the palace: 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00 for guided groups, 12:00 - 16:00 for individual tourists.

Strelna (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace. The offer is valid for stays from 28th December 2013 till 9th January 2014. ru. Q You can book tickets and guided tours online or by Bookings start on the 1st of November 2013. Offer is valid for individual bookings only. phone. Tickets from 170Rbl. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Wed.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 60 st. petersburg Veliky Novgorod 61

Restaurants Buddha-Bar Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar. ru. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAESW Idiot Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 16 75, www.idiot-spb.com. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW Levin Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGSW Marcelli’s Ul. Vosstaniya 15, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 702 80 10, www.marcellis.ru.Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PTABSW NEP Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEBSW Palkin Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEBW Veliky Novgorod Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted Krasnaya Izba Tourist Information Office Romeo‘s Bar and Kitchen The lovely girls at Krasnaya Izba can provide you with MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www.romeosba- as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very advice on just about everything to do in Novgorod. They randkitchen.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. have a 24hrs. hotline that you can call if you still find that Tandoor Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian you are constantly lost. Tel. (+7) 8162 998 686. Central (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. QOpen 12:00 culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This office at Sennaya pl. 5. www.visitnovgorod.ru - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Cocktail bars Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its Hotels Bar 812 E-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, famous Kremlin there are also more than 50 churches and Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. QOpen 18:00 - monasteries in the region to be explored. tel. (+7) 816 294 09 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel- 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW velikynovgorod. Novgorod‘s only four star hotel is run by the Daiquiri Bar D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky Park Inn brand and it‘s a definite step above the rest. Rooms pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Q Open Sightseeing are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW Veliky Novgorod Kremlin the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only Graf-in C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which good places to eat in this sleepy town and there‘s also an ‚art tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com. QOpen 10:00 - is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first nightclub‘. To get there from the city centre take bus No4, 8a or 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, 20. Q225 rooms (Prices start at 4,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTAESW although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162 Galeria ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole 225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the Galeria Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. The largest Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the for than many other hotels in Novgorod and the whole place away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot huge Millennium of Russia monument. If you are not afraid of has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remark- heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view a small Russian town. Q129 rooms (Room prices start at ably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to 2,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. HALGKDCW hhh from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from to the museum and tower costs extra. high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Restaurants and Cafes Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie Ilmen lake Khoroshye Lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel. theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you’ve When with children, head to the top floor where there is the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and been to this place you won’t want to eat anywhere else - it’s a huge entertainment area for the young and young-at- the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an envi- just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options able position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. QTo get in sleepy Novgorod. You can see the Kremlin from wherever heart.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTALK there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection The journey should take about 20 minutes. Entrance to the of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen monastery is free. 09:00 - 24:00. €. PAW

Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7) Getting There 8162 946 066, www.tk-podvorie.ru. Seated inside what looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hut, you’ll be served There is just one daily long distance train to Veliky excellent blini, pelmeni and borsch by angelic looking wait Novgorod from Moscow. It leaves from Leningradsky staff in traditional costume. They do offer a lot of Novgorodian station at 21:50 arriving in Veliky Novgorod at 06:10. specialities such as local soup recipes and sbiten (a hot drink Trains return to Moscow at 21:20 arriving at 05:30. with herbs) which are definitely worth making the effort for. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAULEGBSW

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 62 Petrozavodsk Petrozavodsk 63

Strannoe Mesto Pr. Karla Marxa 14. “Strange Place” is an eccentric little café we heard about by word of mouth. If Kizhi Open-Air Museum you speak Russian, every menu has its own small short story, and ordering takes a long time while everyone at the table The highlight of any visit to reads each one! The interior is an eclectic collection of sew- Karelia, Kizhi open-air museum ing machines and black and white photographs of the town. is a magical mix of architectural The menu is in English and in Russian, with Russian meat and ethnographic wonder. Kizhi dishes, pasta, and pizza. The tea and coffee options are for island is the place where the the specialist palate-try the Taiga tea, made of forest berries varied marvels of Northern and blackberry leaves, or Rooibos with bilberry and heather. Russian wooden architecture have come to rest from villages and hamlets in the Onega Lake Sightseeing area, which numbers over 1650 Embankment. A stroll on the embankmentis a must. Lined islands. The iconic Transfiguration Church is famous for with sculptures donated from Petrozavodsk‘s twinned towns, being built ‘without a single nail‘, that is to say, the structure promenade along here to watch the boats and gaze at the is entirely made from wood. The magnificent structure rises misty hills on the other side of . On the eastern from the island like a lofty tree, its twenty-two onion domes side, asculpture of Peter the Great eternally points towards seeming to crown it like pine cones. The remote beauty the town, ordering it to be built. When we visited segways of the lakes and forests which surround the visitor here were available to rent. are undoubtably the inspiration for the churches, and the whole of Karelian traditional life. Q Admission for foreign Museum of Fine Art of the Pr. citizens is 625Rbl, with another 100 for the excursion, which Petrozavodsk Hotels Karla Marxa 8, tel. (+7) 814 278 37 13, artmuseum. is professional and informative. Audioguides are available Known Known in Finnish as “Petroskoi”, Petrozavodsk is the Park Inn by Radisson Petrozavodsk Pl. Gagarina karelia.ru. This wonderful art museum on Kirova Square from the ticket office in English, Finnish, Russian for 150Rbl. capital of the independent Republic of Karelia, a region with a 1, tel. (+7) 814 271 70 70, www.parkinn.com/hotel- has an outstanding collection, from icons displaying the www.kizhi.karelia.ru unique Finno-Russian culture. It’s location on Lake Onega, the petrozavodsk. This hotel complex blends Park Inn‘s “live well, Northern russian tradition of painting, to their unique collec- second-largest lake in Europe, makes it the ideal stopping-off sleep well” motto with the luxury knowledge of the Radisson tion of twentieth-century local paintings, with some exquisite Getting there: point for visits to Kizhi Island, a unique open-air museum, group. Situated right next to the railway station, the hotel landscapes depicting the beauty of Karelian nature.Q Open By hydrofoil: The journey to the island takes an hour displaying the wonders of Northern Russian wooden is perfect for business clientele, with six meeting rooms, 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 750Rbl for and a half. The main office at the boat terminal is open architecture. The iconic wooden Transfiguration Church including a large conference hall that seats 200, whose glass adults, 100Rbl for special exhibitions. Audioguides (100Rbl) 08.00 - 21.00 daily. www.kareliaflot.ru and other period log buildings are protected by UNESCO as windows offer natural daylight and splendid views down to are available in Russian, English, and Finnish. By helicopter: In winter you can get a helicopter to the objects of cultural importance. Lake Ladoga nearby is home the lake. Rooms are ultra modern, with Swedish design to island. Contact Peski Airport, Borovaya ul. 4, tel. (+7) 814 to the Valaam Monastery, and the Solovetskie Islands in the match the northern location. Munich‘s celebrated Paulaner 274 74 66 or a Petrozavodsk travel agency. , home to a tragic history as a monastery and then brewers are opening a two-floor restaurant downstairs, with www.fb.com/russiainyourpocket labour camp, are also accessible from Petrozavodsk. The four types of beer brewed on site and live entertainment city’s name derives from Petrovsky Zavod (Peter’s Factory), from local jazz and folk groups. The hotel‘s 24 hour gym and as it was founded in 1703 by Peter the Great as a location free high-speed WiFi ensure the high quality of this interna- for his iron foundry at the time of the Great Northern War tional brand. Q180 rooms (Room prices start at 4,050Rbl). with . During the Occupation War (1941-44), the city PTHAUFKW was occupied by Finnish troops for three years before being won back by the Red Army. The neo-classical architecture and sculpture-lined embankment mean that the town is more Restaurants and Cafes than provincial, with plentiful opportunities to take advantage Fregat Restaurant-Club Pr. Karla Marxa 1, tel. (+7) of the Karelian forests for real wilderness experiences, such 814 279 64 98. This café is an ideal spot for breakfasting as walking, hunting, fishing, cross country skiing and sledging if you have an early boat trip to Kizhi, as from the veranda with real huskies. You can also hire a helicopter and visit you can watch the terminal to make sure you don‘t miss your some of the more remote islands and become absorbed lime-green Kometa.A range of essentially French cuisine, they in this rare and beautiful world of ice and snow. Make sure also have a range of local dishes, including deer with forest you take a good camera with you. If you are really lucky you berries from 390Rbl. might even see an aurora borealis. Karelskaya Gornitsa Ul. Engelsa 13, tel. (+7) (814) 278 53 00, www.gornica.ru. The creation of Finnish Getting There head chef Tarmo Vasenius, this restaurant is unique in serving Karelian cuisine. The great Karelian lakes provide By train: You can reach Petrozavodsk by train from both the menu with a lot of fish, as well as wild animal meat, Moscow and St. Petersburg. There are four everyday such as bear and deer, mushrooms from the forest, and trains from the Moscow Lenigradsky railway station drinks made from cowberry (brusnika) and cloudberry (Metro Komsomolskaya.) (moroshka). Gornitsa is an attraction in itself, designed The overnight trains are at 20:30, arriving 09:45, and to look like a Karelian peasant izba (house) with wood, 21:20, arriving at 12:18. Prices vary from 1,500 (third samovars, and the red and white embroidered cloth that class) to 2,500Rbl (second class). From St. Petersburg is traditional in the area. here are three trains daily, with the best overnight op- tion being 22:02 - 06:40 unless you want to arrive in the Parizhanka Pr. Lenina 31, tel. (+7) 814 279 56 72, middle of the night or travel all day. paris.ptz-group.ru. “The Parisienne” is ubiquitous in Petro- By plane: Petrozavodsk has an airport, although be zavodsk, with nince outlets (see the web for all addresses) warned that there have been recent fatal accidents in of this popular café in the city. With a 24 hour opening, the the . café is perfect for a hot chocolate in plush surroundings, Petrozavodsk Tourist Information with tempting patisserie on offer. Very popular with wedding Tourist Information Centre, Ul. Kuibysheva 5. parties popping in in the midst of taking photographs at the local sights of interest, as is the custom.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 64 SOCHI SOCHI 65

Teremki Landyshevaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 918 915 38 02, www.teremki-sochi.ru. Staying in these wooden houses, Ski Resort Krasnaya Polyana which can accommodate either 4 or 6 people, is a pleasure. The owners are friendly and know what hospitality is (they speak English!). Located in the northern Mamayka district, it’s a 15 minute bus drive from Sochi’s train station (when there are no traffic jams). Q House for rent from 5,000Rbl depending on house type andf the amount of guests. 5 days minimum. PTLDCW

Tulip Inn Rosa Khutor Hotel Krasnaya Polyana, Esto- sadok, Rosa Khutor Alpine Ski Resort, tel. (+7) 862 243 00 00, www.tulipinnrosakhutor.com. Tulip Inn, unusually in Russia, manages to bat above its official ranking; for a three-star hotel it delivers service closer to four-star, and the helpful, obliging and multi-lingual staff do an excellent job in keeping guests happy. Part of an international chain, the hotel wears its Dutch influences lightly, with the Amsterdam Sochi’s summer charms have been the stuff of legend for restaurant offering a mixture of local and European cuisine. generations of Soviet holidaymakers – but the challenge The company is planning to open a second hotel on-site for 2014 has been to transform those beaches and 45km away from the Black Sea lies Krasnaya Polyana, a under its Golden Tulip (4*) branding in time for the Winter sanatoriums into a year-round resort with top notch ski Sochi famous ski resort located at a height of 560 meters above Olympics. Q148 rooms (Room prices start st 3,800Rbl). facilities. That process has put the name of Krasnaya Covered with palm trees and blessed with a subtropical sea level. The mountain tops have modern ski-facilities which PTA6UFLGKDwW Polyana (Red Meadow) firmly on the world’s sporting map. climate, Sochi is one of the best places to stay in Russia - reach heights of more than 2300 meters. Krasnaya Polyana The once unassuming town lies on the slower slopes especially if you like warm climates. Furthermore, the Black will host the Olympic skiing, snowboarding and ski-jumping. Zhemchuzhina Hotel Complex Chernomorskaya ul. 3, of the Caucasus mountains, about 60km from Sochi’s Sea city is the host of the Winter Olympics in 2014. Sochi and its surrounding region finally became part of tel. (+7) 862 266 11 88, www.zhem.ru. Its name means airport, set amid magnificent scenery. However, foreigners should be aware that Sochi is still not Russia 150 years ago, in 1864, after decades of war with the pearl, and this giant one was inherited from the Soviet Union, but It’s a long way south, so the ski runs are high up on those used to flocks of foreign tourists. It is mainly Russians, Turkish (Ottoman) empire and tribes living in the Caucasus its appearance doesn’t live up to its name. The plus side is that slopes – a network of cable cars stretches its tentacles and citizens of former Soviet republics, who populate the highlands. The royal nobility loved the region, with its healthy the beach is within walking distance. Q956 rooms (Room prices out of the Rosa Khutor resort complex and whisks skiers beaches and explore the Caucasus Mountains. With ten water springs, and the first Russian sanatoriums were built start at 5,300Rbl). PTA6UFLGKDCwW through a 20-minute botany class, starting in damp thousand residents, a small expat community is working along the coast. deciduous woodland before emerging into sparkling, hard to prepare Sochi for the Olympics. After the Russian revolution in 1917, the working class snowy coniferous forest. During the ski season (relatively During summer temperatures in Sochi vary between 25 and received rights for holidays, promoted by Lenin. Sochi Restaurants brief, from late December to April, but staff say the 30 degrees Celsius. For example, in the first week of May became the favourite holiday destination of Stalin and he Brigantina Neserbskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 918 608 71 11, last two years have seen snow well into April) it can be this year, the In Your Pocket staff enjoyed a temperature visited the Black Sea for a few weeks every year. You can visit www.sochicatering.com. This is the best place for food, a breathtaking transformation; in summer the whole of 23 degrees. his dacha in Sochi, which is located near many other Soviet according to foreigners who frequently visit or live in Sochi. This region is home to walkers, hikers and other lovers of The winters are mild: by the coast the temperatures are sightseeing spots, such as the Lenin mosaic. French-owned restaurant overlooks the harbour, has outdoor the great outdoors. around 5-10 degrees, or even higher. In the mountains, where In the 1960s, Sochi, and the whole Black Sea coast, was tables, and the menu of seafood and grilled meats are irresist- In the valley of the Mzymta river, Rosa Khutor is the ski resorts are located, temperatures are much lower developed in to one big holiday resort. Forbidden to travel ible.QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs.. €€. PTASW establishing itself as a resort with an alpine accent. Its in winter, and there you can enjoy a good ski holiday. Often abroad, 50 million Russians went to Sochi every year, and the cluster of hotels has a European look to it, while the town there is snow and ice until May. However, mild winters, with region was known by then as the Russian Riviera. With the fall Chaika Ul. Voikova 1, tel. (+7) 862 241 81 64. The old square’s slightly Dutch architecture perhaps reflects a huge shortage of snow, can also happen. of the Soviet Union, and the possibility of cheap holidays to port is going through a renovation and you can now dine and the role of the Golden Tulip chain in developing the site. or Spain, Sochi decayed in the 1990’s and the region’s sip cappuccino in the former classic-style Sea Terminal. The Off-piste entertainment is mostly confined to hotel bars, economy suffered hard. Moscow prices are worth paying to experience the splendid although there is a small ice-rink and a scattering of bars Getting There When Putin, a sport enthusiast and big fan of skiing at Sochi’s view over the Black Sea and its port from the outdoor terrace. and restaurants available. A regular bus route (No105) Krasnaya Polyana, became the president of Russia in 2000, Don’t forget to visit Chaika’s toilet to get an inside look at the connects the resort with Krasnaya Polyana proper, Train or plane? A quick or slow journey? If you choose the the resurrection and face-lift of Sochi began. In 2007 the city port building.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW the Aeroexpress terminal for trains to the airport, and Russian railway, make sure your train will travel along the won the bid to stage the Winter Olympics in 2014, and so downtown Sochi back on the coast. This autumn, the 145km long Black Sea coast during the day, preferably in far 50 billion Euros has been invested in new facilities, sport Tinkoff Primorskaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 862 225 52 02, high-speed train will have daily services from Adler train the morning. It is then that you will almost certainly spot stadiums and high-speed railways. www.tinkof.ru. This Russian famous brewery restaurant has station directly to the Krasnaya Polyana ski resort. The dolphins swimming in the sea, whilst you have breakfast opened a three-storey hang-out at the beach - with excellent new railway is a fabulous route through the mountains. in your carriage. This is an amazing sight, as we can say views over the Black Sea. Here you can watch sports or listen from experience. Hotels to live music on the top floor terrace, while enjoying food and By train: At least 3 trains per day travel from Mos- Sochi has plenty of hotels, although many are under drinks. This is an excellent place to pass days and nights. Pomegranate Explosive! cow to Sochi. In summer the number increases to 10 construction, especially in the city centre. The city and its QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALVESW per day. The trains leave from different train stations region have a long tradition of locals offering private rooms, Try this freshly squeezed (although most leave from Kazansky station) so complete apartments and B&Bs for low prices. This was even Vostochny Kvartal Primorskaya ul. 7, tel. (+7) 862 juice upon arrival in So- check carefully. The fastest train – which is also the allowed during Soviet times, and many Sochi citizens made 266 10 99, www.vkvartal-sochi.ru. According to locals, chi to boost your energy. most expensive and luxurious - is the Sochi Premium a living out of it. However, if you don’t understand Russian, this is the best place in town to tuck in to Caucasian food, and You will see it being sold which brings you to Sochi in exactly 24 hours. Other it will be hard to find them on the internet. we were not disappointed. This huge place offers all the well- everywhere, at the local trains will take up to 38 hours. From St. Petersburg known dishes; the ones unknown to the Caucasian kitchen, markets, and even along there are 3 direct trains to Sochi during summer, and Grand hotel & SPA Rodina Vinogradnaya ul. 33, as well as the more addictive ones: khachapuri (cheese the beaches. Special juic- one in winter. They leave from Mosvkovsky station or tel. (+7) (862) 253 90 00, www.grandhotelrodina.ru. bread), shashliks (kebabs), lobio (kidney beans with onions ing machines have been Ladozhsky station. The journey from St. Petersburg At around 1000 Euros per night, this former sanatorium is and spices) and much more. There is also live music!QOpen made to crush the pome- takes between 37 and 57 hours. the most expensive place to stay in Sochi. Complete with a 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW granates (you can buy one By plane: Russian airlines, such as Aeroflot, S7 and great spa, it is bad for your wallet, but good for relaxation! of these machines for 8000rbl or 200 Euros). Full of Transaero offer daily flights to Sochi. Flights from Mos- Here you will meet Moscow’s upper class. Indeed, it is very antioxidants, the fruit’s red blood is a blessing for tongue cow take around 2 hours 20 minutes, and flights from luxurious, and you will even have your own private Black sochi.inyourpocket.com and soul. At the main market they even sell a version with St. Petersburg take approximately 3 hours 30 minutes. Sea beach. Q40 rooms (Room prices start at 37,000Rbl). alcohol, a kind of pomegranate wine. PHA6ULGKDCSwW

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 66 NiZHNY NOVGOROD

It may not have Moscow’s Red Square or St. Petersburg’s Gorky Hostel Bol. Pokrovskaya ul. 5/6, tel. (+7) 831 Winter Palace, but Nizhny Novgorod still has some pretty 439 09 00, www.gorkiy-hostel.ru/en. Q (Room prices fascinating places to visit. Nizhny’s small but ecclectic start at 490Rbl). PW collection of museums and art galleries has something for Hostel Bugrov Ul. Sovetskaya 20, MMoskovskaya, everyone, and if you find yourself wanting more, there are tel. (+7) 831 416 14 68, www.bugrovhostel.ru/en/. plenty of interesting places to visit outside the city too. Check Q (Room prices start at 400Rbl). PW out more online at nizhny-novgorod.inyourpocket.com. Hostel Naberezhny Nizhne-Volzhskaya nab. 7/2, tel. (+7) 831 230 13 15, www.bereg-hostel.ru/en/. Q Sightseeing (Room prices start at 350Rbl). The Kremlin, tel. (+7) 831 422 10 80, www.ngiamz.ru. Like any good Kremlin, Nizhny’s red brick edifice overlooking the Eating and drinking winding Volga would once have struck fear into the hearts of Bocconcino Alekseevskaya ul. 10/16 (in Lobachevsky the baddies du jour. Even today, as it appears around the river Plaza shopping centre), tel. (+7) 831 296 55 75, www. bend to travellers arriving by boat, it is an impressive structure. bocconcino.ru. Not the place to eat with your hands, al- Unlike Moscow’s famous Kremlin it’s no fortress and the though the pizza tastes so good, you may really want to - the public can wander at will through its territories. It currently dough is magic: thin crispy and light. This classy pizzeria’s houses municipal government centres, two galleries, a church decor screams Russia, e.g. the bone and cream coloured faux and a war memorial, as well as small museums in some of the Tuscan interior, but the cuisine is pure Italy. The toppings are towers. But once, when cities were built on a different scale, fresh and full of flavour. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW it encircled the whole of Nizhny Novgorod and (on the whole) kept them safe from the scary world of medieval Russia. The Tiffani Verkhnevolzhskaya nab. 8, tel. (+7) 831 419 original structure was made from wood, but the ill-advised 41 01, www.tiffanibar.ru. You can’t say ‘Nizhny Novgorod’ combination of open fires and a wooden city came to a without ‘Volga’ and this is one of the best places from which somewhat inevitable conclusion when it burnt down in 1513. to enjoy Nizhny’s enviable views of Russia’s national river. It was then sensibly decided to make a stone version which The restaurant itself makes the most of this, with a plush when it was completed looked much as it does today. And crescent of seating offering a panorama of the Volga and that means: a two kilometre wall, four metres thick, thirteen countryside beyond. Fresh seafood, simply prepared, contin- towers and chock full of artillery points - not something you ues the aquatic theme, though be reassured, it’s not actually want to get on the wrong side of. sourced from the Volga’s murky waters; in fact it’s fresh from The wrong side, in fact, was the Khanate of Kazan, nowadays their aquarium. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW just the next city along the Volga, back then locked in a bloody and prolonged argument with Moscow. Nizhny’s convenient position halfway between the two meant that it became Mos- Getting There cow’s ‘watch-city’, a title that came with no small risk. It suffered By Plane: There are several flights every day leaving its fair share of attacks and sieges over the years, but proved from all three of Moscow’s airports; they take just over pretty much invincible. This could be thanks to the Kremlin, or an hour and prices start from around 3,000Rbl. From it could be thanks to its fearsome inhabitants, as legend has it. St. Petersburg there are typically two flights per day With the fall of Kazan, the Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin lost its that take up to two hours and cost upwards of 3,500Rbl. strategic importance and fell gradually into disrepair. A num- ber of facelifts over the present decade have helped return By Train: Trains typically take between four and eight it to something like its former glory. Nowadays you can stroll hours and usually leave from Kursksky Vokzal in Moscow. around on its grass, or take a walk inside its towering walls and The Sapsan train that connects Moscow and St. Peters- enjoy the view. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission from 60Rbl. burg at high speed also extends to Nizhny Novgorod, stopping at Vladimir along the way, and takes just under Hotels and Hostels four hours to make the journey (from 1,082Rbl). It’ll set you back a bit but is the fastest and most convenient Grand Hotel Oka Premium (+7) 831 425 94 23, way to make it to Nizhny. One more new option is the www.en.hoteloka.ru. Q Room prices start at 4,800Rbl. Lastochka (Swallow) train which runs once a day in PW hhhh each direction, leaving Moscow at 14:15 and reaching Ibis Nizhny Novgorod (+7) 831 233 11 20, www.ibis. the Volga city four hours later (850Rbl). Next fastest is com. Modern and comfortable, as one would expect from the Burevestnik (from 330Rbl) train which is a little the Ibis chain, and only a short walk to the centre. Q Room cheaper and takes 4h40mins. prices start at 2,900Rbl. PW hhh

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com