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MOSCOW “In Your Pocket: a Cheeky, Well- Written Series of Guidebooks” the New York Times Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps MOSCOW “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks” The New York Times October - November 2013 Kolomna A hidden gem near Moscow Greater Russia Explore Russia’s expansive beauty Culture & Events The season is in full swing October - November 2013 No29 moscow.inyourpocket.com CONTENTS 3 Nightlife 33 Bars, pubs and clubs – ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES how to stay out till 6 am Sightseeing Contents The Kremlin & Red Square 36 Russia’s fascinating history 39 Foreword 4 A word from our editor Shopping 45 What to buy and where News 5 What’s new in the city Business directory 46 Banks, accountants and lawyers Basics and Language 6 Some useful information Expat and Lifestyle 47 Expat Experience and Winter Bazaar Culture and Events 8 The season is in full swing Getting around Transport, tickets and more 49 Features Maps 52 Rent a bike 18 Kolomna 19 Russia 56 Raketa Watches 20 St. Petersburg 57 Veliky Novgorod 61 Hotels 21 Petrozavodsk 62 A fine selection of places to spend the night Sochi 64 Nizhny Novgorod 66 Restaurants 24 Russian Cuisine and Sunday Brunch moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2013 4 FOREWORD NEWS 5 We’ve been putting Russia into the pockets of visitors and expats for a full decade now, and as the magazine celebrates Europe In Your Pocket New Accor Hotel complex Russia In Your Pocket 10 Years its tenth anniversary here this fall we’ve got another packed Ideally placed for passengers arriving on the train from guide to all the top attractions in Moscow in October and Domodedovo Airport, Accor Hotels’ new Moscow site is November. We’ve also got an interview with one of the Northern due to open its doors in November. The complex combines founders of In Your Pocket’s Russian editions, reflecting on Ireland Estonia two hotels, the 4-star Mercure and the 3-star IBIS, with Ireland 10 years of life in Russia (see page 47). Latvia Russia the first Adagio aparthotel in Russia. The Adagio comes Looking ahead, art lovers are in for a bonanza as the fifth Lithuania with 94 apartments, from studios to two-room apartments edition of Moscow’s Biennale gets underway, bringing some for up to four guests and offers all the facilities needed Belarus of the best and most thought-provoking contemporary art for a comfortable stay in the city. But perhaps the biggest from around the world to the city. It’s an event which has Netherlands Poland attraction is its location – although it’s a couple of minutes helped to reshape the local cultural scene, and we pick out Germany Ukraine Belgium Czech away from Paveletsky station, with its metro connections the highlights on page 14-15. Republic and rail link to the airport, the hotel is set on a quiet street It’s also time for the theater season to get into full swing, and Austria in Moscow’s charming and historic Zamoskvorechye region. whether it’s contemporary dance at the Stanislavsky, Wagner Switzerland Slovenia Romania Georgia Rates and available are still unknown at the time of going Croatia and Verdi at Novaya Opera, a reinvention of drama at Dvorets Italy to press, but more details are expected on Accor’s website, Bosnia Serbia na Yauze or the triumphant return of Broadway blockbuster Bulgaria www.accorhotels.com, in due course. Montenegro Kosovo Chicago, there’s plenty to get excited about. All this, plus a FYR Macedonia host of great concerts and exhibitions can be found from p8. Albania The on-going year of Dutch culture continues apace, with an Greece Charity exhibition of Russian artists inspired by the Netherlands and Pomogat Legko is a charitable a big show drawing parallels between the early romantics project established in St. of both countries opening at the Tretyakov. Meanwhile the Petersburg to help provide business and education communities gather for their latest treatment to children conferences on joint opportunities. See p16 for more. suffering from cancer. The Sports fans are already looking forward to seeing Bundesliga It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Ten years ago in a brave move, a Dutch couple bought a Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which programme grew out of art cat on Nevsky Prospect in St. Petersburg – Russian cats giants Bayern Munich come to play CSKA in the Champions therapy classes in which League – and the Russian champions will hope to avenge a time we have grown to become the largest publisher having a notorious reputation, especially the Nevsky kind. of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now children undergoing hospital They named the cat Kees and the amiable feline was an 3-0 defeat in Bavaria in the opening game of the competition. treatment spend a little There’s also Kremlin Cup tennis and the on-going Kontinental cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with instant success story – becoming the first model for St. time each week painting. Petersburg In Your Pocket – started by the same couple. Hockey League season to keep the excitement coming – Batumi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) However, the paintings were details on page 17. and the number of concise, witty, well-written and Kees is still the inspiration behind Russia In Your Pocket so good that Elena Gracheva but today he is a little greyer and has given up the high If you’re looking for a break from the big city, a trip to nearby downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides of the AdVita Foundation Kolomna might be just the answer. Only a couple of hours by published each year is approaching five million. We pressure life of a feline model to offer advice behind the decided that the images scenes. For Kees’ 10th birthday and the anniversary of train, it’s a welcome retreat from the bustle of Moscow – and also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 could be used as gift-cards. boasts its own impressive Kremlin as well as a museum of what has become Russia’s best and biggest publishing guides, which can be downloaded for free from the Pomogat Legko has become house for visitor guides, rumours abound that the Cat locally-made fruity confectionary to sweeten the deal. Plan AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. a fundraising branch of the your trip with our guide on page 19. Father behind Russia In Your Pocket and Krasnaya AdVita Foundation selling a Shapka will be holding a party to celebrate 10 successful Finally, as the dark nights arrive and the first snows threaten, To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your range of souvenirs based on children’s work to raise money the IWC’s annual Winter Bazaar is one of the first highlights years helping tourists, expats and companies get the Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ for children’s cancer treatment. A gift card and a souvenir most out of their opportunities in Russia. of the long Russian Winter. It’s a perfect place to do some suddenly takes on a whole new meaning when you recognise Christmas shopping while helping good causes locally – for inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). that it is the work of a child suffering from cancer and that it more details see page 28. also is helping provide cancer treatment for other children. Andy Potts, Russia In Your Pocket From this touching basis the Pomogat Legko project grew. The Happy Unity Day new organisation has established its own community centre November 04 is Russia’s Day of Popular Unity. This national Editorial department Editor’s note where people can purchase gift cards and souvenirs and can holiday is a new old holiday having been celebrated for the Research & PR The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides themselves participate in master-classes, attend lectures first time in 1649 and commemorates the victorious uprising ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Yana Kurganova is independent from paid-for advertising. or volunteer time to the charity to help children. The project in 1612 by Minin and Pozharsky which ejected the Polish [email protected] We welcome all readers‘ comments and Moscow In Your Pocket acts as a support group for parents who can also spend forces from Moscow. Celebrated every year from 1612 up Layout & Design suggestions. We have made every effort to time painting with their children, gives children relief from the until 1917, the holiday was resurrected in 2005. It is viewed founded and published by Malvina Markina ensure the accuracy of the information at OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. [email protected] the time of going to press and assume no monotony of hospital life and also gives them something to by most observers as a replacement holiday for the now- Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Editorial contributors responsibility for changes and errors. aspire to and look forward – a positive moral boost for anyone abolished holiday of November 7 which commemorated the Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A. Andy Potts, The publisher does not bear responsibility going through difficult times. www.advita.ru Revolution. Creating the confusion of how to you congratulate Peter Campbell, for the accuracy of advertising information. someone on this holiday…Happy Unity Day! Moscow office Luc Jones Russia, 101000, Moscow Mосква В Твоем Кармане Krivokolenny Pereulok 12/2 Commercial department Учредитель и издатель: Erasmus monument for Moscow tel: +7 (499) 962 80 50 Sales Managers ООО «Красная Шапка» [email protected] Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург World-renowned Dutch scholar Desiderius Erasmus will be Natalia Murgo rubbing shoulders with other global giants in the courtyard russia.inyourpocket.com [email protected] Ул.
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