A Diving Adventure Magazine

Featuring Turks & Caicos Aggressor II Florida’s Castor Wreck TDI’s Wreck Tech Training This publication is Inon 45-Degree Veiw Finder underwritten in part by: Manta Rays of Manihi Grand Cayman’s Dive Tek & Cobalt UNEXSO’s Dolphin Dive Issue 13 - 2009

Pg 1 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 CONTENTS Explore, Discover, Challnge Pg 4 Dive on the M/V Castor Pg 44 Dive Tek & Cobalt Coast Sometimes a great wreck dive Doug Ebersole gets in a little Editor - Walt Stearns with interseting marine life is no family time on Grand Cayman at email: [email protected] further than your own backyard: a rec to tech dive retreat. provided you live in South Florida. Associate Editor - Steve Lewis Assistant Editor - Karen Stearns Pg 49 Dive Log: UNEXSO’S Copy Editor - Brian Bienkowski Pg 11 Beyond the Basics: Dolphin Dive Experience Art Director - Cheri Craft Going Wreck Tech What’s it like to dive with a Webmasters - Margaret Chatham A TDI Advanced Wreck Diver dolphin almost all to yourself? Program prepares divers to better We show and tell all. Tony Isse handle the variables and reap the rewards of wreck exploration. Advertising - Ralph Viscusi Pg 53 Parting Shot: email: [email protected] What one photographer found Pg 18 Turks & Caicos Aggrressor II while night diving far offshore in Contributors Enjoying the good life on the Gulf Stream. Doug Ebersole board the Turks & Caicos Islands Phil Rudin premiere live-aboard. Lazaro Ruda Michael Salvarezza Pg 34 Inon 45-Degree Finder Christopher P. Weaver Hands on review of Inon’s 45-degree view finder, and what it could do to improve your Editorial Disclaimer: underwater housed system. The articles, positions and statements contained in this publication are not necessarily those of SDI™, TDI™ or ERDI™ its BOD, officers or employees. Opinions, Pg 39 Mantas of Manihi conclusions, and other information in this A look at a tiny corner of French publication are solely those of the Editor / Polynesia’s Tuamotu Archipelago, Writer and are neither given nor endorsed and the opportunities it provides by the agencies mentioned. Total editorial Aquafield Communications, LLC. for a fully natural dive experience. freedom and expression is solely retained and the responsibility of the Editors / Writers. The Underwater Journal is published by Aquafield Communications, LLC. All content in this publication is protected, copyright Cover - Karen Stearns enjoys a close encounter with a large reef shark in the © 2009. No use may be made of material waters off West Caicos, in the Turks & Caicos Islands. contained herein without written consent Image: Copyright © Walt Stearns 2009. Camera system - Nikon D300, Tokina from Aquafield Communications, LLC. 10-17mm lens in a Subal housing, Sea & Sea YS-250 strobes. Inquiries: [email protected]

Pg 2 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Editor’s Page

It’s been a busy year. Hurricane season pretty much came and went without so much as a whimper in South Florida, presenting an almost entirely uninterrupt- ed dive season. And being a South Florid- ian, I was able to get in some fantastic dives. But of more interest to you, are our other endeavors. I’m proud to announce that Underwa- ter Journal is now the official dive publication of SDI/TDI. Our partnership with this great training agency enables us to bring an even wider range of information to more people with like minds – those who see the ocean as our playground. This issue will give you insight into what is to come of this collaboration, with an educational piece on technical wreck diving by Steve Lewis, Director Marketing and Corporate Communications for SDI, TDI and ERDI. Let us know what ‘cha think. On another front has been UWJ’s commitment to marine conservation. We’ve been working closely with the Bimini Shark Lab on Florida’s lemon shark aggregation research project, and an intense campaign to persuade the Florida Fish & Wildlife Conser- vation Commission to add lemon sharks (Negaprion brevirostris) to a fully protected status in state waters. More good news: the Guy Harvey Ocean Foundation, Shark Foundation, and the Shark Safe Network have joined us in this important initia- tive, a result of expected changes in state and federal fishing regulations that will put this shark in a higher level of vulner- ability. With that said, we ask for your support; if you’d like to get involved, contact us at [email protected]. Everyone can make a difference, and I’m certain our valued readers will step up to the plate. On the diving, I’m not one to suffer from tridecaphobia, but I feel issue 13 is one of our best. So read on, the water is fine.

Walt Stearns Editor-in-Chief

Pg 3 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Dive America: South Florida “...this hail was coming up to meet us.”

t first, we didn’t expect anything special. The day began like so Amany other summer mornings in South Florida – hot and humid with little more than a 5-knot wind out of the east and the pending threat of a thunderstorm or two. From the boat deck the offshore water didn’t appear to be a promising blue, but instead seemed to hold the same gray/green as the tide that we’d followed out of the Boynton Inlet. Dropping through the first forty feet was the equivalent of floating in a light evening fog. Then the water suddenly cleared and we were immersed in what seemed like a hailstorm -- except this hail was coming up to meet us. It took a moment to figure out the sudden burst of swirling silver energy, then the picture made sense. It was a wall of small, cigar size baitfish – round scad, swimming top-speed in a state of panic right into our path. And close behind came their tormentors, a M/V Castor second wave of predators comprised of Almaco, crevalle, yellow jacks and Boynton Beach Florida’s rainbow runners moving in fast pursuit of the small fish. As the two groups Brightest Stars in Wreck Diving converged, the explosion of activi- ty opened a hole in the swirling wall of biomass to reveal the tall, proud story & photos outline of the M/V Castor’s bow. It was by Walt Stearns quite an introduction. Pg 4 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 A Big Wreck Sitting upright in 110 feet of water with an aft superstructure that rises to within 60 feet of the surface, the Castor is a big, high profile wreck. Sent to the bottom as part of Palm Beach County’s artificial reef program nine years ago, she measures 258 feet at the waterline and has a 37-foot wide beam. Even when underwater visibility is stellar, it’s hard to take in the totality of this wreck. As we dropped below 50 feet, the schools of frantic scad cleared and visibility improved to the 70-foot range. Near the bulk of the wreck a collection of large silhouettes appeared out of the shadows. A quick count of the bulbous bodies provided a tally of at least 40 goliath groupers. We were expecting this because it was their spawning season, which starts mid August and sometimes lasts well into early October. And it was the reason we’d chosen this wreck, along with three other sites 30 miles further north, which had become favorites for these groupers to aggregate in relative safety as they wait to breed. Typical of goliath grouper behavior, the big fish (each weigh- ing 150 to 450 pounds) hovered idly in close proximity to each other and the wreck, as if waiting for a signal to get started on what they came here to do. But that wasn’t Pg 5 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 going to happen anytime soon. series of loud booms. In goliath Through the collection of fertilized grouper speak, “you’re in my terri- eggs down current of these aggre- tory, go away!” gations, researchers have recent- But despite their size and ly discovered that spawning activ- posturing, goliaths are actually big ity takes place during the darkest babies with more bark then bite. hours of night. As soon as their bluff is called, they As formidable as these big fish head for safety in a deep hole. seemed, they yielded easily to our After having our fun and shoot- advances with some backing down ing a few pictures, we left the into the wreck for safety, while big fish behind and moved on to others simply edged slightly off to explore the rest of the wreck. Like the left or right to allow us to pass. most ships commandeered for Then there were those one or two artificial reef duty the M/V Castor fish that try to be the big man on has a story. Her original maiden campus, looking at first to hold name was the M/V Dorothee Bos, their ground while emitting a short a Dutch built shelter deck cargo Pg 6 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 carrier used for transporting timber. She was built in 1970 by In addition to being big, Bodewes shipyard in Martens- the Castor seems to burst hoek, Netherlands. In 1988, she with life, from thick bait was renamed the M/V Mer Star, balls that at times totally with her primary port change from envelop the wreck to the Spain to Mobile, Alabama, where various corals, sponges and she worked between the Gulf of hydroid communities taken Mexico and the Caribbean. For root. This all gives the wreck the next twelve years she under- went several name changes from a pageantry of color, like M/V Ann Mar, Irma, Allegro Sea, that shown (right) on the Gulf Viking, Carib Star, ending in starboard stairway to the 1999 with the M/V Castor. U.S. Castor’s bridge. Coast Guard and Customs seized her in 1999, following the discov- ery of 10,127 pounds of cocaine on board. Pg 7 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Trivia - Where does the name “Castor” come from? In many countries it is a common practice to name ships after stars visible in the night sky. In the Gemini constellation, Castor and Pollux (the twins from Greek mythology) are the constellations’ two brightest stars.

Pg 8 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 With debts accrued by the Like so many wrecks in South former ship’s owner, the Castor Florida, the Castor has become soon became a derelict on the Miami home to a profusion of orange cup River before being seized again (Tubastraea cocinea) corals. Nearly and turned over to the Palm Beach everywhere you go - under the ship’s County Artificial Reef Program. bow, inside the main superstructure, By the time she was made ready or any place shaded from the sun – for her final voyage, project costs you will find innumerable colonies of to clean her up and sink her had these brilliant orange, cauliflower size totaled up to $75,000 dollars – corals. While Tubastraea may not be which is actually modest in compar- a native Tropical Atlantic species, it ison to many recent ship-to-reef sure adds color to wrecks along this projects. Most of the money came part of the Florida coast. from the county’s Vessel Registra- tion Fee Trust Fund. Since the Castor’s last ride on the waves on December 14, 2001, the big freighter has undergone a number of changes. Structurally, most of the cargo holds in her mid-ship region have collapsed and lay predomi- nantly flat. Up in the ship’s bridge, the roof has been torn loose, with some of it lying down inside and the rest scattered elsewhere on the sea floor. Other than that, she still sits upright with the bow pointing south and her aft section looking like a four story condo. For safety reasons all hatches and doors have been removed, making for easy penetration. With the main deck at 90 feet and a maximum depth of 110 feet, this is a great dive for a 32 to 36 percent Nitrox mix. The Castor’s engine room can be easily penetrat- ed, but should be left to those who are equipped and understand proper wreck diving procedures. Pg 9 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 And if the Castor isn’t enough, there are more wrecks in the immediate vicinity. Like the Castor (#21), the Captain Tony (#19), a 167-foot freighter sitting in 85 feet salt water (fsw), and the Budweiser Bar (#20), a 169-foot freighter sitting in 95 fsw were sunk as part of the Palm Beach County’s artificial reef program. Both sit a couple hundred yards inshore of the Castor. Together, drawing a line to the point each is positioned, the wrecks form a triangle three miles offshore of the Boynton Beach/Delray Beach line. Due to their close proximity to the Boynton Beach Inlet, six miles to the north and the Boca Raton Inlet eight miles to the south, the ride out to the wrecks for most dive charters in the area is a mere 30 minutes. Yeah, it’s that close, but we’ll save those two for another time. Dive Charters - Boynton Beach - WS Dive Charters International - http://www.deeper-dci.com Loggerhead Dive Charters - http://www.loggerheadcharters.com Mermaid Dive Charters - http://www.mermaiddivecharters.com Pelican Dive Charters - http://www.pelicandivecharters.com Splashdown Divers - http://www.splashdowndivers.com Underwater Explorers - https://securec7.ezhostingserver. comdiveboyntonbeach-com/indexs.cfm Water Vision Scuba Charters - http://www.watervisioncharters.com

Dive Charters - Boca Raton Diversity Charters - http://www.thediversity.com Varian Charters - http://www.variancharters.com

Pg 10 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Beyond the Basics

Accessing a World of Possibilities with Wreck Tech by Steve Lewis

f all the dive training programs I teach, the OAdvanced Wreck Classes are my favorite. There are a number of reasons why this program has so much appeal, but perhaps the one reason that stands out the most is that no two classes will be the same. This may sound like a strange TDI’s Advanced Wreck Diver statement for an instructor to Program prepares divers to better make, as one of the primary goals of any sanctioned SDI/TDI handle the variables and reap the training program is to deliver a rewards of wreck exploration. consistent, professional curricu- lum that provides every student with the requisite information and skill sets. And in fact the mandat- Walt Stearns © 2008 ed goal of Advanced Wreck train- ing is: “to familiarize participants the iceberg dotted waters of the Essentially, if there’s water, with the skills and techniques Labrador Current, to the bathtub- there’s a wreck under it someplace, required to explore shipwrecks like comfort of the central Pacific; and it will be like no other. And so, inside and out.” salt water and fresh; unlimited because wreck diving involves so But then there are the visibility to Braille-diving condi- many variables, instructors will variables. Wrecks come in just tions; and from sites where you add their own twists to the core about every size, shape, depth, and can stand up and poke your nose program to make it appropriate condition. Divers have an oppor- out of the water to depths that for the conditions and environ- tunity to explore wrecks from would make Moby Dick wince. ment where he or she teaches. Pg 11 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Evolution of Exploration

Historically, wreck divers The thinking was that a cavern/ were often forced to learn skills intro to cave course was the by a process best described closest thing available at the time as “trial, error and survival.” to solving the problems waiting Techniques for exploring within for divers inside shipwrecks. What wrecks followed several differ- made that training particularly ent and often conflicting schools valuable was its focus on certain of thought, and there were no rules designed to help manage absolute standards by which the special risks of working in one’s skills and abilities could a hard overhead environment, be judged. where a quick and direct bailout This changed with the creation to the surface was not an option. of the Advanced Wreck training In the simplest terms those program. The actual published cave diving rules were original- list of skills taught in this program ly listed as: Training; Guideline; includes a laundry list of planning Gas; Depth; Lights. (A mnemon- and preparation steps – things such ic to remember them was “Thank as calculating and marking cylin- God, Good Divers Live.”) This ders, working out gas consump- translates into: Do not exceed tion, and conducting stress analy- or ignore the limits of your train- sis before the dive. The in-water ing (and experience by implica- skills include lost line and lost tion); always maintain a contin- buddy drills, air sharing while uous guideline to open water/ exiting through a restriction, the surface; plan dives around dealing with a simulated air leak, adequate gas volumes and ascending from depths using an oxygen partial pressure; stay emergency ascent line, and within the working depths of your about a dozen or so more. equipment, your level of concen- Those core skills will seem tration, nitrogen partial pressure, familiar to any cave diver -- and for and comfort zone; carry backup good reason. Before the forma- lights to preserve safety and tion of TDI and the creation of a comfort in the event of primary course dedicated to ‘man-made light failure. overhead environments,’ many These five rules were born aspiring wreck divers felt the best through trial and error by caving Deep water wreck in the bottom of way to hone their survival skills pioneers, codified by explorer Bikini Atoll - Photo Bill Downey was to head off to North Florida’s Sheck Exley, and validated through cave country for cave training. the process of accident analysis. Pg 12 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Beyond the Cave Venturing into a hard overhead environ- ment demands a special- ized approach and unique skills; both cave and wreck penetration have that in common. Where things start to diverge is in the execu- tion of those skills and the deployment of the rules. This is why a cave course is not the best training for diving wrecks and wreck training is not perfect for cave diving. The Better Way To Dive North Carolina Simply put, there are some major differences between caves and the shipwrecks. First, wrecks are often found in remote locations that can be challenging to reach. With a couple of notable exceptions – the SS Presi- dent Coolidge comes to mind Walt Stearns © 2007 – few wreck dives are drive-to affairs. Granted, there are a They reflected the conditions, every piece of kit is fully handful of caves where divers • Charters equipment and mindset of functional and appropriate have to trek through the • Wreck Diving the time. Today, this list has for the planned dive. With the jungle or use climbing gear to been broadened and refined popularity of closed-circuit get to the water’s edge, but • Shark Diving to reflect the growth in the rebreathers in the recreation- for the most part, the logis- • Rebreather Friendly tech-diving movement that al community, the simple rule tics of transporting complex, • Scuba Instruction has spawned advances no for ‘Gas’ (adequate volume heavy equipment to the site is Beginner to Instructor one would have guessed at 20 and oxygen partial pressure not nearly as difficult as is the years ago. at depth, which worked fine case with wrecks. For example, the rule for open-circuit divers), has Wreck diving usually www.olympusdiving.com ‘Lights’ has expanded to be been completely renovated requires a boat ride. That in a reminder to be suitably -- it now reads more like the itself is a huge variable. Some 252-726-9432 equipped and to make sure SOP for a space walk. journeys to the dive site take 713 Shepard Street, Morehead City, NC Pg 13 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 hours, and preparing, stowing, and securing a set of doubles, or side-mount cylinders, stage bottles, scooters, contingen- cy kit and the various bits and pieces of personal gear in three- metre seas is not intuitive; it Simplicity is the Ultimate Sophistication takes coaching. Pointers from an experienced instructor on how to make sure your kit stays secure and reasonably tidy, dry and undamaged are invaluable. And even something as simple as moving about in rough weather or wedging oneself into a bunk in high seas is a learned art. Walt Stearns © 2008 Sinking Circumstances Wrecks come in a multitude of shapes, sizes and depths. Another variable inherent To explore one from the outside is one thing. Once you to wreck diving is that sinkings venture inside, conditions change, presenting a whole Dive Computers for happen as a result of a whole new list of variables that could be encountered, including raft of different circumstanc- entanglement, disorientation, entrapment. Technical Divers es; and these circumstanc- es affect the dive experience Shearwater Research greatly. A large part of creat- ties almost always present find something sharp and rusty makes dive computers ing a realistic dive plan is being divers with some of the great- ready to tear a drysuit or put a and rebreather electronics aware of what put a wreck on est challenges. They usually nasty cut in a hand or leg. for technical divers the bottom in the first place, sank quickly; suffered serious All these variables present worldwide. and understanding any special structural damage; went down special risks that must be identi- risks that might be associated with considerable loss of life; fied and managed. For divers • Powerful with that type of event. and may contain material such who are taught to overcome For example, a ship sunk as shells, bombs and bullets these challenges, war casualties Simple • during a battle will have gone that are also dangerous. It’s not offer a unique peek at history • Reliable under because another ship or unusual for this type of wreck to and insight into the brutality of ships, planes, submarines or offer countless opportunities for war. The appeal of this type of www.shearwaterresearch.com something else big and armor- entanglement, entrapment, and wreck is so great that I know a plated managed to put a huge disorientation. And almost every number of wreck divers who dive email: [email protected] call: 604-669-9958 hole in it. These war casual- few metres the unwary diver will exclusively on WW II wrecks. Pg 14 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Perhaps the most famous are either removed, welded open and extensive grouping of WWII or enlarged so getting into and casualties is in Truk Lagoon out of the wreck’s interior is where in February of 1944, an less of a chore for a fully kitted American Navy task force sank diver. Artificial reefs like the or damaged three Japanese light Vandenberg offer some incredi- cruisers, four destroyers, three bly exciting dives and a relative- auxiliary cruisers, two subma- ly controlled playground in which rine tenders, three other smaller to build wreck-diving skills and warships, an aircraft transport experience. They also quickly and 32 merchant ships. These become home to thousands of wrecks went down fully loaded critters, from huge schools of fish with armaments and artefacts, to microscopic invertebrates -- transforming the lagoon into a great spots to take a still camera wreck diver’s paradise. or video. At the other end of the By virtue of the condition they spectrum -- in terms of trauma are in – virtually intact -- a lot of during sinking – are intentional intentional wrecks are great sites wrecks. These are the artificial for practicing wreck penetra- reefs sunk specifically to attract tion and working on the nuances anglers and divers. Earlier this Walt Stearns © 2004 of running guide reels, (without year, the second largest artifi- ending up with a handful of line cial reef in the world, the SS WWII wrecks in destinations that resembles an unturned bowl Vandenberg, was sunk about like Truk Lagoon went down of spaghetti), all while sitting in a 10 kilometres off Key West, fully loaded with armaments and cloud of silt and rotten wood. Florida, which is about as close artifacts, transforming them into The largest artificial reef in the as a world class wreck dive gets a wreck diver’s paradise. But, world -- the USS Oriskany, sunk to walk-up accessibility! off Florida’s panhandle – is one as all of these ships were sunk As with all modern intentional of the few wrecks with so many wrecks, this decommissioned US by force, they also pose certain corridors and deck levels that Navy vessel was ‘sanitized’ before risks which wreck divers need divers need several reels and a she was sent to the bottom. to keep in mind. road map to explore her insides. That process involves clean- Sandwiched in between ing out everything that might these two types of wrecks is a contaminate the environment third category called acciden- as well as making the wrecks’ tal sinkings. These include inside and outside diver friendly. the hundreds of thousands of This includes removing rigging, ships that sank because of bad cables, wiring and other poten- weather, insurance scams, freak tial entanglement hazards. Doors squalls, inattentive helmsmen, Pg 15 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 sneaky rocks and uncharted The special sauce for these reefs, or simple bad luck. The wrecks is a low-impact diving Steve Lewis is by his own admission, “a cave diver liv- condition of these wrecks runs approach: good buoyancy, great ing in wreck diving country.” He has logged more than the full gamut, from looking so trim, and perfect propulsion. All 1,400 wreck dives, 500 cave dives and close to 800 perfectly preserved you could that, plus learning to dive in cold deep trimix dives in both environments. He works as turn the key and drive it home, water, because even in summer director of marketing and corporate communications to a pile of boards or twisted when surface water tempera- for Technical Diving International (TDI), and its sister scrap iron. Their vintage also tures can be in the 20s C (70s F), agencies, SDI and ERDI, and is also an active instructor- varies, widely ranging from Old below the thermocline the water trainer, teaching all over North America and abroad. He World treasure ships and sailing temperature is usually a constant has published dozens of articles about technical diving, vessels of every size and descrip- 4 degrees C (40 F). dive safety and dive travel, and is currently working on tion, to ocean-going freighters, a book about technical diving called Twelve Dialogues with Doppler. He oil tankers, luxury liners and Personal Favorites makes his home in Ontario’s cottage country, about a two-hour drive north of modern merchant ships. Toronto, near the shore of Georgian Bay, Lake Huron. The most famous collections I’m sometimes asked which I of this type of wreck can be found prefer: diving caves or wrecks. Follow his adventures on facebook, or e-mail Steve via [email protected] in the freshwater seas of North Just as often, the question is And/or follow his writings by subscribing to his blog at http://decodoppler.wordpress.com/ America’s Great Lakes. Accidental which one is tougher or more sinkings take place everywhere dangerous. Truth is I love them around the world but the Great both, and both present a special Lakes boast literally thousands set of risks that demand a of wrecks, and with the excep- diver’s undivided attention. But tion of a handful from the War of when pressed for a decision, 1812, and a few artificial reefs, wreck diving wins out for the these are all the result of storms, simple reason that it is avail- fog, rocks, rum, human error or able to more divers. There are a combination thereof. Many of a number of caving hot spots in these wrecks went down in the North America and beyond, but 19th and early 20th century and there are interesting and histor- the lakes’ unique combination ic wrecks in every corner of the of fresh water, cold tempera- world. And therein lies the appeal tures and lack of critters that eat of an Advanced Wreck course, wood, means these ships can be and explains why it remains one perfectly preserved. And since of the more popular programs on the vast majority are protect- Technical Diving International’s ed heritage sites or nestled in bill of fare. one of many marine sanctuar- - SL ies, several of them still contain artefacts, which give divers a true history lesson. Pg 16 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Pg 17 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Live-Aboard Diving

What’s it really all about?

Turks & Caicos Aggressor II

by Karen Stearns photos Walt Stearns

Pg 18 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 6:00 a.m. Dawn Patrol

he early morning air was Meanwhile, the reef’s day shift sultry as we assembled our emerges from their slumber to Tgear, making the water all once again go about their business. the more enticing. It would be As it was the entire trip, the another half hour before the sun water was refreshing but comfort- peeked over the horizon, but I able, and soon after we dropped gladly rolled out of bed before 6 to the reef, we came across a am, not wanting to pass up the group of large lobsters walking opportunity for a dawn dive. about, bold as brass. One was I’m not a particularly huge fan a true giant, with a carapace as of night diving, and often opt for big around as my thigh. Later, as a glass of wine at dinner instead. the sun’s first rays began to filter But there’s something very special down, mobs of goatfish descend- about being underwater during ed on the bare areas of sand those final minutes before sunrise, between the coral mounds. Small watching the reef transition from bar jacks joined them, shadow- darkness to morning’s first light. At ing the hunters as they moved this time, the nocturnal denizens helter-skelter in search of food. of the reef are still out and about, Suffice to say, ‘twas a great first preparing to return to hidden lairs. dive of the day. Pg 19 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 The Live-aboard Experience

We surfaced to the aroma of boats are my favorite way to experi- fresh brewed coffee. Within minutes ence the underwater world. The of climbing back aboard, we were other reason is access – liveaboards rinsed, dried and enjoying a savory can carry you to places shore-bound hot breakfast. This was my kind of divers rarely reach. dive trip. And apparently, the rest of That was certainly proving to be our group felt the same way. the case on this, my latest adven- There’s something magical about ture in liveaboard diving. We were waking up each morning knowing aboard the Turks & Caicos Aggres- the dive site is literally beneath sor II, and had spent the past few your feet; for putting in four dives a days on the reefs off West Caicos, day without dragging dive gear any far removed from the crowds, with farther than the end of the boat deck; exclusive access to the region’s for having hearty meals waiting, and many miles of prime reefs. knowing comfortable beds are just Over the years, I’ve had a number paces away. These are just some of memorable experiences aboard of the reasons why liveaboard dive the Aggressor Fleet’s liveaboard Pg 20 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 dive boats. So in some ways, I knew what to expect on this trip. By the same token, I came with some high expectations. To my delight, but not surprise, the boat and the crew did not disappoint. Beginning with their first liveaboard, the Cayman Aggressor, which went into service in 1984, the Aggressor Fleet has continued to set the benchmark in modern liveaboard dive yachts. The Turks & Caicos Aggressor II is ten feet longer then her nearly identical sister ship, Cayman Aggressor IV, and is the newest vessel in the fleet. Although christened in 2003, she returned to the yard in the fall of 2008 for some additional upgrades to the interior, and she now shows like a brand-new vessel. Everything about her sparkling 120-foot white profile speaks dive yacht. Guest accommodations The Turks & Caicos Aggressor are comprised of nine private II’s interior plan is comprised staterooms, each with their own of nine below deck staterooms. en-suite bathroom and shower. Primary cabins follow a bunk The T&C Aggressor’s primary bed arrangement, with the cabins (2 twin, 6 deluxe) offer a lower bunk wider than the top. bunk bed arrangement, with the Stowage of clothing, personal lower bunk in the deluxe cabins being a third wider than the top. artifacts, even a suit case or two, The Master suite up towards the can be placed beneath the main bow offers a queen-size bed. bunk. The one exception is the Some might think it decadent master suite at the bow, which to have LCD televisions and DVD features a queen size bed. players in each cabin, but if there is one thing the principals of the Aggressor Fleet strongly believe in, it is providing a full range of Pg 21 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 creature comforts to their guests. One of the other nice touches found in each cabin is a reason- able amount of storage. The company website advises that you don’t need a lot of clothes – a few t-shirts, shorts and swim suits, plus personal items. But I’m a woman; it’s our nature to bring more than we need. Besides, the AC works so well below deck that I always bring something with long sleeves. No problem, the cabins provide a large wardrobe closet, as well as storage area beneath the lower bunk deep enough to tuck away both a suit case and Walt’s large rolling camera bag. The boat’s common areas are equally comfortable and spacious. Even with a full complement of passengers and crew, things never seem crowded, and there are always quiet corners for those times when you want a bit of private time. I say this because some friends who have never been on a liveaboard have told me they weren’t sure that The main salon’s dining area is divided up way, the boat also carries both cell and satellite they are comfortable with the between to large L-shape lounge sofas with four phone systems with fax capabilities. And, so idea of “being stuck on a boat dining tables two one side and two to the other. long as you are within visual range of Provo, with a crowd of people you don’t One recent upgrade is a 57-inch Samsung your cell phone will work with the island’s know.” To that, I say there’s LCD TV, which is wired into the boat’s network. Depending on your phone plan and quite a difference to being on a computer to allow guests to share photos and user time of the boat systems, the phone bill day boat with 17 other divers, videos. The computer suite includes PC and could be a bit steep, but it’s nice to know that and having the same number of Mac systems and a printer. Guests can process you are always in touch with the outside world people spread out on a hundred- images and access e-mail programs. For those – even when you don’t feel the need to exercise plus foot, three-deck vessel such who prefer to communicate the old fashioned that option. as the T & C Aggressor II. Pg 22 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 And though there are ample social opportunities, the main The Crew focus is diving. It’s possible to Having the right crew can make make as many as five dives a day, any dive vacation better, and this and some guests take advan- was certainly what I found to be tage of every single opportuni- true on the T&C Aggressor II. ty, which doesn’t leave a whole Despite their demanding sched- lot of time for anything else ules, each member of the crew besides eating and sleeping. But were excellent at their job, seeing there are also guests such as to every detail with a good- myself who are perfectly happy natured attitude, sharing jokes, to skip a few dives and find a or in the case of “Bob,” setting quiet, cozy spot to recharge or himself up to be the source a few relax with a good book. There’s of those jokes. never been a time when I felt Besides diving, food is a next, with side dishes like bean In addition to being knowl- crowded aboard an Aggres- primary focal point of the trip. salad, rice, green salads, and edgeable about the area, the crew sor boat, not when suiting up Most breakfasts and lunches are so forth. Dinner is even more was enthusiastic about every dive on the dive deck, dining in the served buffet style - meat loaf extravagant with dishes such – providing ample Intel with each salon, and certainly not up on one day, T & C chicken (a local as slow-roasted pork tender- briefing, and remaining animated the sundeck, which is huge. island recipe) or BBQ ribs the loin with apple sauce, accompa- and vigilant when guiding dives. Normally, Walt and I prefer to do our own thing, but after an after- dinner critter review present- ed by one of our divemasters, Melissa, I took the offer to join a tour. I not only enjoyed the tour, but also found that it added more meaning to subsequent dives, as I had forgotten many of the names of small fish and inverte- brates found on the reef, as well as where to find them. If conditions kept the boat from reaching a specific site, the captain was prepared to offer great options – such as adding a few dawn dives to the schedule – so guests were not in the least bit disappointed. © Walt Stearns Pg 23 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 nied by sweet potatoes, zucchi- The boat also carries DPVs ni, yellow rice, stuffed mushroom for those interested in a guided caps, mixed peppers or peas, or scooter tour of reefs and walls. on the lighter side, things like The one thing that seems to a Greek salad with beer bread be getting progressively bigger or spinach salad with sundried on the newer Aggressor boats is tomato bread. the dive platform or swimstep, Usually I make no apologies which is now large enough for six for the fact that I’m a very fussy fully suited-up divers to stand and eater – at least I thought I was do last minute checks without until I learned some of the other getting in each others’ way. The guests’ culinary requirements. Aggressor Fleet was among the I was pleasantly surprised how first liveaboards to add freshwater our chef, Ronnie went out of his showers on the swimstep. way to accommodate everyone’s tastes and dietary requirements. The layout of the Aggressor fleet’s dive deck remains much the same for all boats in the fleet, and these boats set the standards that many other operators around the world emulate. The Turks & Caicos Aggressor II is typical of this design, with the center portion of the deck occupied by a 5 x 6-foot, three tier, carpet- ed camera table, with the crew’s dive stations occupying the deck’s center area behind it. Guests’ individual dive stations are fitted with tank racks and large individ- ual storage bins. Near the swim step, there is a dedicated rinse tank for cameras. The boat carries a good collection of spares and rental equipment, and divers have the choice of air or nitrox - Aggres- sor Fleet’s standardized mix is EAN 32. Pg 24 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Pg 25 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Diving West Caicos

The Turks & Caicos Islands lie midway between the Bahamas island chain and the island of Hispaniola (Dominican Repub- lic/Haiti), encompassing some 192 square miles of islands and shallows. There are actually two plateaus, cleaved in two by the 25 mile wide Columbus Passage with the small island of Grand Turk, the nation’s capital on one side, and the Caicos Islands on the other. Grand Turk offers a world- class wall and adjacent shallow reefs, but the Caicos Group can claim the lion’s share of unique bottom topography, affording divers a variety of patch, shallow and deep reefs, plus an assort- ment of steep slopes and walls. Most know this region from visits to Provo, the most devel- oped and populated island. But for diving, the good stuff lies next door off West Caicos down Silvery schools of horseeye to French Cay. The down side for jacks hang in the shadow of the day boats is that travel time from Aggressor’s hull at just about every dive site. Grace Bay is more than an hour each way. It’s down in this area that the Turks & Caicos Aggres- sor works the edge of the reef’s The small island of French Cay Aggressor II will spend up to two diving West Caicos. plateau, which averages depths is another prime area, but due days on the various sites neigh- Regardless of which venue of 45 to 60 feet before stepping to its distance from both Provo boring the tiny island. Should the crew selects, the experi- off vertically or cascading down and West Caicos access to these conditions be less favorable, as ence is among the best you will over a series of narrow terraces dive sites are heavily dependent they were the week we were find in the Tropical Atlantic or before disappearing from view on the weather. When the winds there, than the boat’s itinerary Northern Caribbean. into the depths. are favorable, the Turks & Caicos will focus almost exclusively on Pg 26 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Thanks to their remote and sharks, Nassau groupers, spade- uninhabited nature, West Caicos fish and hawksbill turtles, as well and French Cay serve up some of as eagle rays, are among the area’s the most exciting and pristine diving signature trait. in the Caicos Islands. For many divers, the highlight of More than just another collection any trip is the chance to drop over of vertical precipices with thickets the edge of a precipitous wall. On of soft corals and sponges, the drop board the Turks & Caicos Aggres- off at West Caicos is a favored hub sor II, that opportunity is there as for medium size (4 to 5 foot) Atlan- often as four times a day consider- tic reef sharks. In addition to the ing that all of the boat’s moorings reef sharks, encounters with nurse are located next to them.

Pg 27 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 With ULTIMA DIGITAL’s housing for Hasselblad’s H3DII 31, 39 & 51 megapixel cameras, underwater photographers can now take advantage of the best digital medium format systems available today, achieving unprecedented underwater image quality only once dreamed of.

For beautiful, high impact imagery, it’s more than megapixels.

At 48x36mm, Hasselbald’s H System image sensors are West Caicos Dive Sites twice that of full frame (FX) 35mm, and nearly four times that of The cascading front of Rock see them there as well. APS-C digital Camera Garden Interlude's drop-off features Driveway got its name for a broad sensors. a wide, U-shape depression flanked on sand chute that forms a break in the both sides by several huge buttresses reef’s crest out on the wall. Topograph- In addition, ULTIMA of coral with deep undercuts working ically, this site offers a little bit of DIGITAL gives you down to a broad plateau at a depth of everything. To one side the bottom peace of mind that 120 feet. Growing from the ceilings of opens out across a stark, white sandy your Hasselblad H3DII the undercuts are thick trees of Black plain with scattered coral heads. At is protected as each Coral and long tresses of rope sponges the edge of the plateau, the reef forms housing is tested to a in deep hues that form a maze of a thick, buttress of coral. Follow the depth of 250 feet. appendages. In addition to tiger and wide highway of sand through the gap Nassau groupers that seldom mind the or up over the huge coral barricade For more information contact [email protected] presence of a diver, the edge of this and you’ll discover that the reef drops exceptional drop is regularly patrolled away vertically to 120 feet before Custom Photo Images is the exclusive importer and distributor of the by several reef sharks. Because both stepping off again. I could spend a lot ULTIMA Digital underwater housing system for Hasselblad Gullies and Driveway are in close of time here. There’s plenty of vibrant proximity to this site, you are likely to color and fish life. Pg 28 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 On the inshore side of West Caicos Reef shelf, the bottom topography often ranges from broad sand flats with intermittent coral heads to more extensive patch reefs. These semi-isolated communities are often the best places to find small reef fish like these yellowhead jawfishand and invertebrates.

Down towards the bottom the Nassau groupers that seem 100 feet from the mooring, of West Caicos is the site called to be out and about at every but due to heavy encrusting the Anchor, which features a turn. But the big attraction here growth, it is also easy to swim wall with a steep cliff face. What is the site’s namesake, a large right on by without recognizing I liked most about this site is anchor form the early 1800’s it for what it is - it can be a fun that the upper edge of wall is that sits embedded beneath the game to see who finds it and a particularly profuse reef with overhang of a deep ravine at 70 who doesn’t. coral growth and fish life, like feet. It’s an easy swim, about Pg 29 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 walt sterns new ad:Layout 1 8/5/08 4:47 PM Page 1

BE PREPARED for your next dive vacation by learning the names of all the wonderful sea creatures you will meet on the reef.

When groupers seek the servic- es offered by cleaner gobies and click here now Pederson shrimp at designated cleaning stations, they become for immediate more easily approachable. This creates a wealth of photo oppor- delivery tunities as small fish and shrimp remove bothersome parasites from their patron (shown above). One species you will see is Marine life field lionfish (Pterois volitans), which guides for divers have succeeded in proliferating throughout the Bahamas, Turks & by Paul Humann Caicos Islands and are now working their way across the Caribbean. and Ned DeLoach As pretty as these unwelcome, non-indigenous species are, the red lionfish is a highly unwelcome predator, posing a serious threat to New World Publications native reef, which lack instinctive defenses against them. www.fishid.com Pg 30 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 The Big Show

The Turks & Caicos is not without a few special treats when it comes to large wild life. In addition seeing Nassau groupers, sea turtles and Atlantic reef sharks near the drop-offs around West Caicos and French Cay, between late June to mid July adult nurse sharks aggregate to mate in the two to three foot shallows off French Cay. During the months of January through the beginning of April, humpback whales, en route to their annual migration to and from the Silver Banks (off Hispaniola), often include the surrounding coastline of the Turks & Caicos as a temporary stopping point. At that time of year the Turks & Caicos Aggressor II capitalizes on the whales breeding season by moving the boat south to the Silver Banks where hundreds of these giant leviathans converge.

Pg 31 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 like tentacles extended, which makes each cylindrical spire have the appearance of being covered in fuzz. Around it, a small battery of blue chromis dashed among the colony’s splayed fingers. Even if it takes years for new growth to return this colony’s spires to the vertical, the reef is no less interesting, as life never stops but merely adapts to changes. Witnessing this process take place is like watching a child grow. It’s invigorating and excit- ing, and is what makes the Turks and Caicos Islands a place worth exploring, year after year.

Down, but not out

In 2008, Hurricane Ike’s surge, leaving many toppled on were toppled over. Like Mother destructive force knocked down their sides. Natures’ recovery process in the many of the huge stands of pillar As sad as it may be to see wake of a forest fire, new growth coral for which the Turks & Caicos several of these majestic forma- has formed. If conditions permit, Islands were famous. Some of tions turned to ruins, I am the evidence of this latest storm these shallow water coral commu- reminded that it is part of the will be concealed, just as it has nities stood as much as 12 feet in cyclic nature that all tropical for many thousands of years. height. Despite the generations coral reefs endure. During our One of the largest pillar coral of growth – one coral polyp atop summer 2009 visit, we saw the communities toppled by Hurricane another it took to construct them, rebuilding process taking place Ike still retains a vibrant colony they were unable to withstand the on pillar coral colonies still stand- of polyps with their characteristic devastating power of Ike’s storm ing, as well as among a few that golden brown coloration and hair- Pg 32 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Information at a Glance What To Expect: Wide selection of shallow reefs (5 to 60 feet deep) with adjoining vertical wall sites with depths beyond 130 feet. Generally considered one of the region’s finest destinations for stellar underwater visibility, 100 to 150-foot plus is considered average. Void of strong currents, the general diving conditions are a good bet for even novice divers. All dives are conducted as boat dives, with limited shore diving.

Preferred Seasons: Weather and sea conditions are generally good year round, however, August through October is peak season for Hurricane activity. Water temperatures vary from the mid to low 80's in summer to the mid to upper 70's in spring and fall, and sometimes dipping into the low 70's in winter.

Travel: Getting to the Turks & Caicos Islands is relatively simple, consisting of a 70-minute flight from Miami International Airport. American Airlines operates daily, nonstop flights to Provo from Miami. On Provo there is no shortage of beach side resorts, waters- port operations and restaurants. For roaming the islands, dress is casual and the U.S. dollar is the official currency. The Electricity on island, as it is on the Turks & Caicos Aggressor II, is standard 110 volts/60 cycles. Travel Documents: A passport is the most desired for U.S. Citizens, however, a valid copy of a birth certificate with a photo I.D. Will do.

Taxes: The Turks & Caicos collects a $15 cash departure tax for all persons 12 years and older.

Currency: U.S. dollar is the official currency. Medical: Provo features its own multi-lock, hyperbaric chamber at the Menzies Medical Center. For more information about diving in the Turks & Caicos Islands, the Tourist Board can be reached at 649-946-2321; in the U.S., 305-891-4117; or visit their website at www. turksandcaicostourism.com

Pg 33 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 GEAR: Hands-on Review

Now a SDI/TDI Five Star Facility

Inon’s 45-Degree Finder by Phil Rudin

My first housed camera my single Oceanic 2001 strobe the housings built in magnifi- system was a used silver alumi- to a distance from the subject er, left me with many out of num Tussey for the Canon AE-1 that I thought would achieve a focus images for the trash bin. camera (circa 1976) with the proper exposure. As my passion for photog- Canon FD 50 mm f/3.5 macro Looking through the raphy grew, so did my invest- lens, which would reach a 1:2 viewfinder I would then move ment in equipment, evolving macro range without an exten- the housing in and out until first to a Nikon F-3 camera in sion tube. Like all SLR’s in the I could see the subject come an Aquatica 3 housing in the day, it was all manual, no auto into focus in the camera’s mid 1980’s, than to a Nikonos focus, auto film advance or small viewfinder and then RS system in 1992. The big TTL. Most of my macro was snap the photo. This system advantage these systems had done by racking the lens out as worked well for its time, but over my faithful little Canon far as it would go and moving the small viewfinder, even with AE-1/Tussey housing was how Pg 34 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 UJ Blackbeard Ad 0109 1/15/09 12:19 PM Page 1

I was now able to see the image. degree pitch to the back of the Nikon F3’s standard DE-3 finder making it easier, and high-eye-point finder on the certainly a little more comfort- camera body could be replaced able, for me to get on the same with a DA-2 action finder, which optical axis as my subject while provided a huge 1:1 view through at the same time keeping the rest the finder rather than the sensa- of me off the bottom. tion of peering in through a key For the next fourteen years, hole. This was a clear advan- life was indeed good - then tage over my previous housed came digital. camera system. In 2003 I started my transition One set back, because I like to to digital SLRs, getting my first shoot macro, was when attempt- housed Olympus DSLR system in ing to photograph anything really 2005. As wonderful as digital was small like a sailfin blenny protrud- touted to be, I was once again ing from his hole in the sea-floor. faced with the issue of a less than The task required my facemask stellar viewfinder system. For to be pressed flat against the the package price, the Olympus Freeport, back of the housing while the rest PT-E01, 2, 3 & 5 housings mated Grand Bahama of me pressed completely flat on with the E-300, E-330, E-410 Grand Bahama the bottom. Not only was this a E-520 cameras provided a pretty Departure slightly unnatural and uncomfort- nice viewfinder system. I have able position, it wasn’t too good used them all and have created for the fragile bottom. many publication quality images Then there was the Nikonos with them. But when I moved to RS, a system that was both the pro level Olympus E-3 camera $ per camera body and housing as I was looking for a housing that week one, complete with interchange- would equal the quality and able lens and port system, motor performance of the remarkable 899 drive, auto focus and TTL meter E-3 camera. Pirate’s Lady, Sea Explorer, and Morning Star leave from system. While it certainly had For me, that match came in Freeport, Grand Bahama, sailing the crystal waters of the Bahamas more features than the F3, it was the form of SeaTool’s SDH-OME3 the action finder that impressed housing. It was small, light-weight, on weekly dive cruise adventures. Dives include shark feed, me most. and formed wonderfully around wrecks, walls, and night diving. Like the F3 with the DA-20 the Olympus E-3’s camera body, action finder, the RS’s viewfind- but it still needed something. 1-800-327-9600 er also featured a big, beauti- So at the time of my purchase, www.blackbeard-cruises.com ful viewfinder with full 1:1 image I decided to try out Inon’s after- coverage. But what Nikon did market viewfinders in place of the [email protected] differently was add an eleven- housing’s standard pickup finder. Pg 35 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 When traveling I always remove the viewfinder and pack it in protective bubble wrap. This allows me to better fit my housing and other equipment into my ThinkTank Airport Security carry-on case. If you remove the finder prior to travel or want to interchange between the 45 Photo of straightfinder courtesy degree and 180 degree finder’s of BACKSCATTER. during a trip be sure you don’t leave the Inon locking ring tool at home. When reinstalling any viewfinder a proper pressure test should be done to detect any leaks before a camera is installed into the housing and a dive is made.

Inon 45 vs. Inon Straight The Inon viewfinder extends The Inon 180-degree, also his or her subject straight on the eye-point of the camera’s called the Straight Finder, does from behind the camera, which is When it comes to products viewing system giving the exactly what a standard pickup quite useful for shooting moving for underwater photography, the photographer the same 100% finder does with the advantage of subjects like sea turtles, schools Japan-based company Inon has view of the camera’s viewfind- providing a near 1:1 image cover- of fish in mid-water, sharks, made a name for itself building er image without any vignette. age. In addition to allowing the dolphins, mantas, etc. durable small compact strobes Even while wearing a face mask, photographer to see 100% of the The 180-degree finder permits systems and wide-angle lens the view is complete, where as view through camera’s viewfind- the user to view everything from adaptors for other manufactur- with a standard pickup finder, the er without any vignette, the behind the housing and in a verti- ers. With their added line of 45 camera’s viewfinder display size 180-degree finder extends about cal position, hence the reason and 180-degree finders Inon is reduced making it difficult to three inches from the rear of the some find it to be easier to tract has designed a product that see everything – subject, meter- housing. This can be very attrac- fast moving subjects - others can be easily installed on most ing, etc., at once. tive in that your regulator’s second have found it to be a bit awkward brands of housings – Hugyfot, Since everyone has their own stage doesn’t make contact with for shooting split level (half under/ Ikelite, Nexus, Sea & Sea, preference to what they like to the back of the housing, even half above water) and macro. SeaTool and Subal to name a shoot most, Inon provides two when wearing a low volume Where the 45-degree finder wins few rocking the world of under- models of finders, a 45-degree mask. The object of its design is out, is in the fact that the finder’s water digital photography. and 180-degree. to allow the photographer to view glass eyepiece is positioned at Pg 36 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 a 45-degree angle relative to the a quick change between horizon- camera’s optical axis. Through tal and vertical compositions. The this, photographers can now hold motion is controlled with a four the camera lower than their head point series of click stops every 90 whether they are in a prone or degrees. Rotating the viewfinder vertical position. both clock wise and counter clock- This is very useful when trying wise, the stops lock the viewfinder to shoot subjects, such as my little securely each time in the twelve, friend the sailfin blenny. The angled three, six and nine o’clock position. finder keeps you in a more natural O.K., I am a little more than sold body position instead of flatten- on the 45-degree finder. The next ing yourself entirely out to wallow question, how does it really do in around on the sea floor, leaving the water? destruction in your wake while you When I first purchased the wait for that perfect moment. 45-degree viewfinder I was not Another point to consider when sure I would warm up to using choosing between the 180 and it with wide angle lenses. Three 45-degree is that the 45-degree months later, I am still happy finder’s eyepiece is designed to with my choice, having used this rotate a full 360 degrees allowing viewfinder with every lens in my possession from 200 mm macro to the 8 mm fisheye (equiv. to a For getting down 35mm format 16mm fisheye). low to shoot really small While I found no difficulty using the subjects on the bottom, 45-degree finder with all my wides, the 45-degree finder is in the 180 would certainly have been its element. the better choice when on trips that involve photographing sharks, The same can be said as panning during composition is when shooting upwards often the norm. For getting low removing the need to and shooting macro, the 45-degree bend your head and back is in its element, which has allowed like a limb contestant. me to capture some of my best macro yet. The viewfinder’s optics is constructed with six anti-reflec- tive, multi-coated, glass elements set in four lens groups. This group- ing obviously allows for a very high amount of light transmission, which Pg 37 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 at my age and diminish- ($9.00 MSR) Inon tool to seal. Other than that, the ing vision since first starting remove the locking ring. only other costs of installation Phil Rudin began underwater photography in The Inon 45 and 180 will be incurred if a special taking photographs 1968 is a key issue, and thus degree viewfinders have modification is needed to fit underwater while he have never been happier with an MSRP of $700.00. The it to your housing. was in the U.S. Navy my ability to see my subject viewfinders were original- Costs will vary depend- in 1968. He is now a so clearly. ly designed for cameras ing on the brand and model freelance writer/travel In addition to a marvel- with the APS-C size image of the housing. Installations photographer. As past ous view through the lens, sensors, but will work just as are performed by a number President of the South I also have an unobstruct- well with cameras having FX of authorized Inon dealers. Florida Underwater ed view of the image and (full frame) format sensors, In the US - Backscatter, Photography Society, corresponding information as long as they can be fitted Marine Camera Distrib- Phil has served on the Board of Directors for over displays on the camera’s into a corresponding housing. utors and Reef Photo & sixteen years and enjoys the diver’s makeup of rear LCD. On my housing As I mentioned earlier, Video are recommended. the club. Phil is retired from the West Palm Beach I am able to compose and Inon’s 45 and 180 viewfind- I have tried several other Florida Police Department where he served as shoot with one eye and then ers will fit a wide variety of similar systems and found see the histogram appear housings. Some housings, this to be the least expensive Dive Team Commander for the city. With thirty with the other with little like SeaTool come pre-cut add-on finder I am aware of. years experience as a public safety diver and dive movement of the housing. for the Inon finders; others If you are looking for a team manager Phil has done over five hundred Not only is this a reliable use a different size port for quality viewfinder at a decent recovery dives during his carrier. Phil has recovered piece of equipment, which has their pickup finders. To cover price I recommend you vehicles, aircraft, evidence, bodies and more. greatly improved my ability the gap, Inon offers both the contact an authorized Inon Other dive team duties included hull inspections to compose my shots more 180 and 45-degree finders dealer to see if one can be of large commercial vessels, underwater crime accurately, it is both solid in a narrow mount version, installed in your housing; you scene management, crime scene photography, and well built. The viewing which uses an insert and two won’t regret it. collection of evidence, training and more. Phil has optic is protected by a raised o-rings to provide a proper - PR also traveled extensively throughout the world to hard rubber ring surround- pursue his passion for underwater photography. ing the glass, which comes His images have appeared in magazines such as with a protective rubber cap Popular Science, Reflections, Scuba Diving for use when transporting or Magazine, Underwater Journal, Skin shipping the viewfinder. Diver, Florida Underwater, South Florida The viewfinder uses a Adventures, The Sun, Dive Chronicles, single o-ring and is held in Waterways and others. Phil also lectures on place by attaching a thread- travel destinations and photography around the ed locking ring to the back country, as well as been a part of digital seminars in of the finder on the inside of Cozumel and St Croix. Phil currently uses Olympus housing back. Both 45 and cameras and lenses, Olympus and SeaTool camera 180 viewfinders are easily housings, Athena and Olympus ports and strobe interchangeable in the field, arms with Inon strobes and close-up lenses. but require an inexpensive Pg 38 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Travel/Adventure

any visitors to the islands of Tahiti and MFrench Polynesia are drawn to the indescribable beauty of Bora Bora’s fantastic lagoon, or to the more under-stated but equally stunning scenery of Manihi Tahiti’s neighboring island of Moorea. More adventurous explor- ers often find themselves on the funky island of Rangi- roa, where an expansive 25-kilometer-wide lagoon provides opportunities for amazing natural experienc- es. However, since French Polynesia consists of so many “Patience is the word of the islands and atolls, the most day here at The Circus.” interesting opportunities for exploration and adventures are often found in the most out of the way places. Manihi is just such a place.

story & photography by Michael Salvarezza & Christopher P. Weaver

Pg 39 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 UJ AquaCat Ad 0109 1/15/09 10:48 AM Page 1

A birds-eye view of Manihi Atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago

Tucked away nearly 480 kilome- ing ocean. The only village here is ters northeast of the main island Turipaoa, which is located on the of Tahiti, Manihi is part of the Tairapa Pass. You will not find any Play... Tuamotu Archipelago, a collec- banks on the island nor restrooms $ per Explore... tion of 69 atolls and islands sprin- at the airport. Manihi is truly an Learn... kled across an 1100-kilometer out-of-the-way place. 2295 week wide swath of the South Pacific Known primarily for its thriving Ocean. Although Manihi is serviced black-pearl farm business, Manihi 102 Feet of liveaboard luxury... leaving weekly from Nassau regularly with flights from Tahiti is home to some world-class to the unspoiled reefs and islands of the Exumas. and other islands, visitors arriving diving opportunities. Our diving here immediately notice the rustic on Manihi initially consisted of Diving, snorkeling, sea-kayaking, fishing, beach combing... nature of the island: a tiny, open air intriguing dives along the sloping Live THE dream! shack serves as the airport termi- reef outside the lagoon. Here, the nal and is only manned at certain hard coral reefs boast rainbows times of the day when an inbound of pastel colors brightly decorat- or outbound flight is expected. ing a wall that tumbles gently into Manihi is a large elongated coral the deep. Along this reef, divers atoll, consisting of a narrow strip of can find schools of snapper and 1-800-327-9600 land circling a wide lagoon with two grunt, along with emperor snapper www.aquacatcruises.com • [email protected] cuts or “passes” into the surround- and dozens of raccoon butterfly Pg 40 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 fish. Looking closely into the reef crevices, divers can often find lionfish hiding alongside squir- relfish and soldierfish. Green sea turtles are often seen cruising along the reefs, as are a variety of sharks: Manihi is home to both grey and blacktip reef sharks. Divers can general- ly count on these creatures to be patrolling the mixing grounds of the pass where the waters from the lagoon and sea converge. Here, where the visibility decreas- es dramatically as the murkier lagoon waters escape to the ocean, schools of jack and barra- among a random tumble of large cuda can often be found waiting boulders and rocks. The colorful for a quick meal. corals from the reefs outside the The reefs of Manihi are blessed lagoon were noticeably absent. with crystalline waters from the First impressions: not good! But surrounding Pacific and diving patience is the word of the day outside the lagoon is certainly a here at The Circus and the dive fabulous experience for any diver. guides had prepared us accord- But Manihi held one other ingly. So, we settled in among surprise for us…a magical dive the rocks and waited. site called The Circus. After only 5 minutes, they Leaving the dock as we did appeared from out of the gloom. every morning, we once again First, a fleeting shadow could be motored across the lagoon. But seen moving cautiously among instead of pushing forward into the murk. Then another shadowy the open ocean, our boat tender glimpse, and finally there it was… cut the engine and stopped short the delta wing of a large manta ray of the pass. Looking around all we sweeping past us like a jetfight- could see is puzzled faces and low er. Amazed, we stared with open murmurs from confused divers. eyes, while sucking down a few Without question, we heaved over extra pounds of air in excitement. Life of the reef in Manihi range from raccoon butterfly fish the side and descended nearly Soon we were surrounded! Manta (upper left), which often travel in schools to larger denizens like 18 meters into the hazy lagoon Rays were everywhere, circling, grey reef sharks (top) and blacktip reef sharks (bottom). water. Soon, we found ourselves dancing, sweeping, and flying all Pg 41 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 around us. Incredibly, they hardly took notice of the noisy bubble- blowing divers sprawled across the dive site. I guess you can say the mantas were busy with their own agenda. You see, The Circus is a manta cleaning station, and each morning, a dozen or more of these gentle giants converge at this rock-strewn location seeking relief from irritating parasites and dead itchy skin with the help of resident butterfly fish and cleaner wrasse. Manta Rays by nature are watch- ful and wary creatures. If divers make an effort to minimize their movements and refrain from Manta Rays by nature are harassing them with luck may get watchful and wary creatures. a rare and wonderful opportunity to interact with these magnificent animals up close and personal. to perform a slow backward-rolling enced by those willing to appreciate This dive site also features black- summersault, exposing its brilliant its natural beauty and appeal. Linger tip reef sharks in abundance, as white underbelly before disappear- here and you will forget there is a well as several resident moray eels. ing into the brume of the lagoon frantic, bustling world “out there.” If In today’s era of short attention waters. While we try not to attribute you come, make sure you get to The spans, divers who tire of mantas human behaviors to wild animals, it Circus…the mantas will be waiting. cavorting only a few feet from their was hard not to envision that this - MS & CP masks can turn their attention to ray, which had been playing in these these other inhabitants living in this waters for the better part of an hour, unique location. was not trying to find a way to say Our dive at The Circus conclud- “good bye” to its newfound friends. ed with an amazing encoun- As it disappeared, we simply waved ter. A sizeable ray, perhaps with a farewell and began our slow ascent wingspan exceeding 3.5 meters, to the surface. approached guardedly from a small Manihi is a treasure in the vast gully in the rocky substrate. With a open waters of the South Pacific. small remora in tow, the ray glided Much like the prized black pearls slowly towards us and at the very last that are cultivated in these waters, moment gracefully lifted its wings Manihi is to be savored and experi- Pg 42 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Getting There: The only international airport Weather: Manihi and the rest of the islands is located on the main island of Tahiti. It is in the Tuamotu Archipelago enjoy two distinct serviced with direct flights from Los Angeles, seasons: a Dry Season and a Humid Season. Hawaii, Paris, Auckland, Sydney, Tokyo, Osaka The Dry season runs from April through and Easter Island (Chile). Air Tahiti Nui, Quantas, October, with July and August being the Air France, Hawaiian AirLines, Lan Chile and Air coolest. This is the Austral winter and tempera- New Zealand all service French Polynesia. tures range from 24-28 degrees Celsius. In the For flights to Manihi, connect with Air Tahiti, Humid Season, between November and March, the domestic carrier within French Polynesia, more rain can be expected, along with higher which offers frequent service to all of the islands humidity. Temperatures can range from 26-28 of French Polynesia. degrees Celsius. French Polynesia’s climate is defined as marine tropical (hot temperatures Baggage: Baggage allowances vary for each tempered by the ocean). international carrier so check before you leave. For the domestic flights to Manihi, Air Tahiti Where to Stay imposes strict limitations on baggage: carry-on baggage may not exceed 3kg and standard class passengers are permitted 3 checked items not to Michael Salvarezza and Christopher P. exceed 10kg/. For passengers booked in the “Y” Weaver head Eco-PhotoExplorers.com boarding class, 20kg is permitted and passen- (EPE), a New York based organization gers in the “Z” boarding class can check 50kg. promoting interest in protecting our ocean Divers are permitted an extra 5kg by showing environment by creating awareness through their c-card at the time of check-in. the use of underwater photography. Travel Documents: A valid passport is required for entry. For visitors from Australia, no Visa is required for stays up to three months. Visitors from the USA and New Zealand require a Visa for stays over one month in duration. Manihi Pearl Beach Resort Currency: The currency used throughout Web: http://www.pearlresorts.com/ French Polynesia is the Franc of the “Compagnie manihipearlbeachresort/main.php Francaise du Pacifique” usually called the French Dive Operation Pacific Franc. It is abbreviated as XPF or CFP. Its Blue Nui Dive Center is located on the exchange rate with the Euro is fixed at 119.33 grounds of the Manihi Pearl Beach resort. Pacific Francs per 1 Euro. Tel: (689) 96.42.17, Cell 79.22.72 Electricity: Power voltage used in French Polyne- Web: http://bluenui.com/Ang/manihi_ang.htm sia is 220 Volts (60 Hz). Be sure to double-check your appliance’s compatibility before plugging them in. Converters / adaptors are usually avail- able upon request at your hotel front desk. www.NationalGeographicSnorkeler.com Pg 43 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Dive Operations

with Cobalt Coast & Dive Tech in Grand Cayman

y family is cruising along a vertical wall at a depth of about 100 feet in crystal clear 84 degree water, all on underwater Mscooters. My daughter and I are on Sport Kiss closed circuit rebreathers while my wife and son are on open circuit nitrox. As my wife and I look back to check on our kids behind us, we see our son doing barrel rolls with his scooter while a turtle cruises along just behind our daughter’s left shoulder. Am I dreaming? No – this is just another day in Grand Cayman thanks to the staff at Dive Tech and Cobalt Coast. While divers across the world know Grand Cayman as a diving Mecca with warm clear water, abundant marine life, and spectacu- lar coral reefs and walls, most of them spend their time at hotels or dive resorts near Georgetown or Seven Mile Beach. However, traveling north of the Turtle Farm leads to an island paradise – story & photography Cobalt Coast & Dive Tech. by Doug Ebersole Pg 44 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Cobalt Coast is located on the northwest shore of Boatswain’s Bay, just a few miles north of the hustle and bustle of Seven Mile Beach. It is the brainchild of Arie Barendrecht, who retired to Grand Cayman in 1994 after spending 30 years in the tourism and travel free wi-fi throughout the resort. industry – a career that began The onsite restaurant, Duppie’s, onboard a Holland America cruise serves outstanding food and has liner and culminated with his daily dinner specials each evening. managing a Las Vegas hotel. The basic dive package includes Cobalt Coast has a well- lodging, a daily two tank morning deserved reputation of laid-back dive trip, and a breakfast. And luxury. There are 18 rooms we’re not just talking toast and ranging from one and two bedroom coffee here. There are eggs, suites to detached villas with full pancakes, cereal, fresh fruit, juice, kitchens. Each of the suites has and coffee/tea. For patrons who air-conditioning, refrigerators, want to simply eat, sleep, and dive and coffee makers. There is also during their vacation there is also Pg 45 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 a full meal plan available. With the meal plan option, you never even have to leave the resort during your stay! Lunch options include chicken fingers, fish n’ chips, hamburgers, and a large selection of wraps. Dinners on the meal plan include your choice of an appetiz- er, a main course, and a dessert. You’re definitely not losing weight on this vacation! Dive Tech, founded by Nancy Easterbrook over a decade ago, has partnered with Cobalt Coast since it opened in December 2000. Through the years Nancy has built Dive Tech into a state- of-the-art full service recreational and technical diving operation that truly has something for everyone. Recreational divers can enjoy two tank trips of guided one hour dives to the north wall. And if you don’t have a computer you can sign one out. Yes – not rent one, but simply sign one out. The staff wants everyone to get the most out of their dives. More importantly, they want their customers to dive safely. For families there are lots of options. Young children can stay at the resort while parents dive and older children can participate in SSI Rangers, PADI Seals, or even get their junior open water certification during the vacation. For those who are certified but too young to make the boat trips to the north wall, guided dives along the Pg 46 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 mini-wall are available. There is also a Kids Sea Camp each June. What about technical diving? The philosophy at Dive Tech is to allow divers to dive to their level Ghost Mountain, off of certification. If you’ve got an Grand Cayman’s North Wall advanced trimix card and you and would be one of the Cayman your buddy want to do a 300 foot Island’s more premiere sites, trimix wall dive, have at it. Just tell but most people coming to the staff what mix you want and the Cayman Islands don’t it will be waiting for you. If you know that it even exists. The want a guided trimix dive, there’s “Mountain” is a pinnacle the plenty of staff to show you around size of a three-story house the deep walls of Grand Cayman. that sits far enough out from There’s even a Tek Week every the wall that even with 100- August where you can share your foot visibility, you can hardly love of deep diving with dozens of see it, hence its name. new-found friends. A dive best suited for Rebreathers? Dive Tech has tech divers, the top of the almost all the major closed circuit pinnacle starts at 70 feet, rebreathers on site for rental, with the bottom edge of its training, and rebreather experi- base at 120 where it joins ences. They also have a multitude the wall. To add to its magic, there is a swim-through on of rebreather cylinders and scrub- one side of its base. ber material for divers who bring For Dive Tech, it’s among their own units. For the rebreath- the list of great dives at er crowd there is Innerspace each their door step with a short May – a weeklong event of every- boat ride out from Cobalt thing rebreather! Coast’s dock. During our stay we dove the two tank trips each morning and spent the afternoons shore diving. Your vacation package includes unlimited shore diving at both of their great shore diving shops – at Cobalt Coast and at the newest addition, Lighthouse Point. The shore diving at both locations is a photographer’s Pg 47 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 paradise. Wide-angle oppor- tunities abound along the main wall with massive sponges and coral overhangs. But also keep your eyes out in the blue for eagle rays and sharks. Working your way back in from the main wall across the sand flats gives the photographer the opportu- nity to shoot eagle rays, south- ern stingrays, queen triggerfish, and garden eels. The mini-wall is covered in macro life and tropi- cal fish. As you move up into the shallows, look for secretary before flying home and will leave blennies, sailfin blennies, and you with memories for a lifetime. flying gurnards. Cobalt Coast and Dive Tech As mentioned above, one truly have something to offer afternoon our whole family rented every diver at every level and underwater scooters, also known combine it with world-class as diver propulsion vehicles service and amenities. Really, (DPVs), and spent an hour cruis- what more could anyone ask for ing along the main wall. It was in a dive destination? right out of a James Bond movie - DE with the four of us flying along the wall. Dive Tech has twelve For more information visit the 24-volt scooters for rent at either Cobalt Coast website at www. their Cobalt Coast or Lighthouse cobaltcoast.com, and/or Dive Point locations. If you’ve never Tech at www.divetech.com. been “wall-flying”, you’ve got to give it a try. Finally, there is Stingray City – often called the “Greatest 12 foot dive in the world.” Given Cobalt Coast’s location, the ride to stingray city is much shorter than from the majority of dive operations in Grand Cayman. This dive is an excellent way to spend your last dive on the island Pg 48 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Dive Log: Bahamas “Sharks aren’t the only exciting animal to dive with in Grand Bahama.”

ith a flick of its tail, the large, sleek, gray form Wturned sharply in my direc- tion for another pass. Although the creature likely outweighed me by 300 pounds, I felt no trepidation. Leaving my hand outstretched, Robala, one of UNEXSO's trained Bottlenose Dolphins, eagerly placed her rostrum (beak) into the middle of my palm. Pressed firmly, the texture of her skin felt smooth and warm. While a dolphin’s perpetual smile could easily be passed off as nothing more than an anatomi- cal quirk in its jaw, their eyes are remarkably similar to our own. As Robala held a position by my side, her intent gaze conveyed both the playfulness of a devil and the innocence of a child. There was no question that I was in the company of a highly perceptive and endear- ing being; one obviously familiar with play. for some FUN? Are you ready by Karen Stearns UNEXSO’s Dolphin Dive photos Walt Stearns

Pg 49 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 • Bahamas • Saba/St. Kitts • Galapagos • Turks & Caicos • Australia •

Time for a holiday! Rediscover the secrets of a liveaboard dive yacht

“I’ll definately be back and recommend to my friends to come along. It was the most relaxing most active v acation I’ve ever had. My best dive trip ever!!” Rochelle T., 8 August 2006, Caribbean Explorer II, Saba/St. Kitts

• 5 amazing destinations • 4-8 day unique itineraries With a sudden surge of motion, • No more than 16-20 guests per vessel my body spun like a top, my • Gear up once during the week & dive up to 5 times a day • Trained & certified staff • Groups & individual divers welcome outstretched hand still cupped • Exotic optional island tours • Nitrox & solo diver certifications over her rostrum. Robala was on •Itinearies to fit every budget - starting at just US$895 per person a mission, pumping her tail as fast • Reefs, walls, wrecks, pinnacles & much more as she could to complete her rapid series of rotations. Appropriately called the Hand Arrive as a guest - leave as a friend! Spin, the purpose of this behav- ior is in part to demonstrate the strength and speed of a dolphin. The experience was certainly exhilarating, even if it did leave US/Canada: 800-322-3577 me somewhat on the dizzy side. Direct +1-903-887-8571 Dropping my hand to allow my Fax +1-903-887-8526 head to clear, I looked up to find [email protected] Robala right next to me, jubilantly awaiting another round of play.

Pg 50 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Take a dive Click here: vacation

For a schedule of upcoming that counts! REEF Field Surveys.

Undersea Voyager Project Become a part of preserving the human experience in exploration, discovery and education.

Since its inception more place in the open ocean, not Most average 30 minutes, but than 12 years ago, the a penned environment! it’s not unusual for dolphins Dolphin Dive Program, featur- Before interacting with to hang around for a little ing several trained Atlantic these special cetaceans, we additional play time. Yet, if Jupiter Diving Bottlenose Dolphins (Tursiops met with UNEXSO’s Dolphin they say it’s over, and swim truncatus), has evolved into Dive Program trainers to go away, it’s over. at its Best the most signature diving over the various formalities During the run offshore, Specializing in tripS for: experience in Freeport, and protocols required for our energetic escorts couldn’t • Hole in the Wall • Goliath Grouper Aggregation Grand Bahamas. Although the dive. The encounter takes contain themselves, perform- • Lemon Shark Aggregation a structured dive with two place a mile or so offshore ing a multitude of jumps and • Tech & Rebreather Only Trips trained dolphins, entertain- in 40 - 50 feet of water. It flips as they raced between • Spearfishing & Lobstering www.emeraldcharters.com ing a max of 10 divers, the is here, in their domain, the the dive boat and the train- • Underwater Photography most attractive feature about dolphins decide just how long, er's support craft. On the Randy Jordan, Owner Call: 561-248-8332 the experience is that it takes or how well a session will go. bottom, using various hand or e-mail: [email protected] Pg 51 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 ocean, it was without question, a bona fide hit. To say the experi- ence of having a guaranteed interaction with two well-trained, friendly dolphins out over a coral reef in 40 to 50 feet of water during the Dolphin Dive is great, would surely be playing it down a bit. In addition to some wonder- ful imagery from our dive with UNEXSO’s dolphins, the moments I had with Robala will remain one of my most enjoyable and memorable experiences this diver has ever had. - KS

For more information on UNEXSO’s Dolphin Experience, as well as other offerings in the way Scuba diving and Kids Sea Camp visit: http://www.unexso.com

and audio signals, trainers direct Some time back in 1987, facility in Sanctuary Bay, as well as the dolphins to perform several UNEXSO acquired six Atlan- their more in-depth, Dolphin Assis- behaviors. While the rudimen- tic Bottlenose Dolphins, with the tant Trainer Program. With the tary hand spin, foot push and intention of formulating a series later, 2 to 4 candidates are taken kiss are fun games to play with of dolphin experiences for both behind the scenes for a series of these children of the sea, the divers and non-divers alike. The more comprehensive teachings in simple pleasure of the moment non-diving programs to come dolphin care and training. takes precedence. Diving with a forward consisted of the Dolphin When the final phase of the dolphin in open water, surround- Close Encounter when guests can program came into being early ed only by a white sand bottom meet and get to know these cheer- in 1990, with the Dolphin Dive and scattered heads of coral, is ful creatures in the gray suits in Program providing regular- an unforgettable sensation. waist deep water at their holding ly scheduled dives in the open Pg 52 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Parting Shot Black Water MAgic

Many sea creatures go these abyssal depths that the through an amazing morpho- greatest migration of animal life logical transformation as they occurs. At first glance the water develop from their larval stage seemed lifeless, but it wasn’t to adult — one example is this until my focus shifted towards a inch-long peacock flounder. It’s smaller scale that I began to see beauty is only surpassed by its magnificence. I was literally the metamorphic changes that floating in a soup of marine life will occur for it to survive on that seemed alien to me. the ocean floor. Some of these I am often asked if I ever changes include the shift of its get bored of diving the same right eye to the left side of its locations day after day, but the head and the development of truth is that the lure of discov- color-changing cells (chromato- ery still makes every dive a phores) in its skin — allowing it fresh and exciting venture after to become one of the ocean’s almost two decades. As Aristotle greatest masters of disguise. once said, “In all things of nature Finding this miniscule creature there is something of the marvel- required looking at the ocean ous.” The natural world can hide from a different perspective. the sublime right in front of our Away from the reefs, I floated noses if we do not stop to look a in five hundred feet of water in little closer. shear darkness — what is coined - Laz Ruda as a “Black Water” dive. It is at

To learn more about the "Black Water" dives of Palm Beach, Florida contact Jim Abernethy's Scuba Adventures at 888-901-3483 (DIVE) or visit www.Scuba-Adventures.com

Photo and text by Lazaro Ruda - www.TheLivingSea.com Photo taken with a Canon 20D in a Subal housing, Sigma 50mm macro lens, and two Inon Z-240 strobes. Settings: f/13, 1/80 sec, ISO 400

Pg 53 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009