Keys TravelerDive Edition

Wreck Trekking In the Keys

America’s Barrier Learn to Dive in the Keys Spiegel Grove Turns 10 fla-keys.com/diving Dive ‘Voluntourism’

135703 KeysTravelerDiver2012.indd 1 2/22/12 9:58 AM Keys Reefs … Carlos Estape

Blue-striped grunts gather at Snapper Ledge off . … Abundant and Diverse

he Florida Keys boast an unparalleled variety of marine green moray eels on a single trip to the reef. life, abundance of fish species and consistently clear, The Keys have a tradition of preserving marine life. With Twarm waters to suit virtually every diver. divers and snorkelers educated in reef responsibility, every- As well as their accessibility, the Keys’ diversity sets them one involved benefits, and the can remain the Keys’ apart as one of the world’s most popular dive destinations. greatest environmental treasure for generations to come. Harboring the only living coral reef in the continental United States, these small islands are largely devoted to maintaining the region’s offshore environment — a focus of conservation facebook.com/ Keys Traveler Dive Edition efforts for more than a generation. floridakeysandkeywest Editor: Andy Newman; Managing Keys conservation efforts began in 1960 when widespread Editors: Julie Botteri and Carol public support laid the foundation for John Pennekamp Coral Shaughnessy; Copy Editor: Buck Banks Reef State Park off Key Largo, named for a Miami newspaper twitter.com/ “Keys Traveler” is published and ©2012 thefloridakeys editor who championed local environmental preservation. by the Monroe County Tourist Development The undersea park’s waters are adjacent to the Florida Keys Council, the official visitor marketing agency for the Florida Keys & Key West. Director: National Marine Sanctuary, established in 1990 as a marine youtube.com/user Harold Wheeler; Sales Director: Stacey preserve. Today the sanctuary comprises 2,900 square nauti- /FloridaKeysTV Mitchell; Dive Market Sales Manager: cal miles of coastal waters along the island chain from north- Yves Vrielynck; Keys Dive Umbrella: CeCe ernmost Key Largo south to the Dry Tortugas. Roycraft, Kim Roney, Tom Timmerman, Amy Slate and MaryAnne Rockett Marine conservation efforts include the establishment of keysvoices.com Sanctuary Preservation Areas, no-take zones that have allowed For the free monthly What’s This? “Keys Traveler” fish and crustacean populations to grow and thrive. electronic newsletter, You’ll find this QR code Iconic blue-striped grunts are typically seen in large numbers subscribe at accompanying several fla-keys.com/ stories in this issue of “Keys keystraveler around protective elkhorn and high-profile coral heads, as Traveler.” The QR codes can well as other Keys critters such as glass minnows, goatfish, Printed in the U.S.A. be scanned by most smart gray snappers, Atlantic spadefish, horse eye jacks, Bermuda By Original Impressions phones. Activate the app, aim your smart phone chubs, and sergeant majors. French and small-mouth grunts at the bar code and you’ll be automatically taken to a website or video for more information. are nearly as plentiful and , a favorite of local For iPhones and iPads, QR readers can be anglers, cruise the reef in astonishing numbers. downloaded for free at the Apple App Store. It is not unusual for divers and snorkelers to spot sea Cover photo of the Duane, now a 25-year-old turtles, stingrays, Goliath groupers, nurse sharks or bright- off Key Largo, by

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135703 KeysTravelerDiver2012.indd 2 2/22/12 10:35 AM Stephen Frink (2)

Successful completion of pool-based classes, left, leads to open-water train- ing and certification, right. Underwater Classroom Learn to Dive in the Florida Keys alm, clear waters surrounding worldwide. as shallow as five feet and as deep the Florida Keys, a 126-mile Online learning through computer as 50 feet, but most reef divers log a Cisland chain located parallel to programs also enables students to maximum depth of 20 to 30 feet. Keys the continental United States’ only living complete classroom work at home then shallow diving offers two immediate coral reef, offer individuals the perfect schedule time in the Keys to complete benefits: longer time safely spent on the teaching ground in which to learn new water skills during open-water dives and bottom exploring, and brighter and more skills as a scuba diver, providing a explore the reef. vibrant colors because more natural lifetime of diving fun, adventure and Refresher courses are available to sunlight reaches shallow depths. memories. review diving knowledge and water skills No matter your skill level in diving, Options for learning to dive in the Keys for infrequent divers. abundant opportunities to enhance an range from introductory resort courses For those seeking advanced skills interest and perfect abilities can be allowing diving for a day, through full and experience to gain confidence found throughout the Florida Keys. certification, a wealth of dive specialties with specific open-water dives, there and career are dozens of specialty courses. They Keys Feature Blue Star opportunities all with personalized, one- range from navigation to , Program for Operators on-one service and training. Here are , digital photography, coral sing a Blue Star–recognized some basic facts. reef conservation and more, as well as charter ensures you are selecting Who can learn to dive? training for a career as a dive instructor. Uan operator dedicated to coral is a sport, an investment in adventure Where do students receive their dive reef education and conservation. that any healthy and active individual as training? Some of the first businesses Blue Star is a voluntary recognition young as age 10 can learn and enjoy. offering recreational dive training in program established by the Florida Keys What classes are available? The America were opened in the Keys. National Marine Sanctuary. Florida Keys has it all. Entry-level “open Dozens of dive operators, staffed with Dive operators who participate in water” certification involves three to working professionals, actively teach the program have staff who have met five days of training and classroom and train each day, not just intermittently certain training criteria work covering concepts such as basic or seasonally. Classes also are offered and are committed to physics and physiology, ocean waves, at concessions in state parks and at promoting responsible marine life and the importance of community colleges. tourism and teaching monitoring time and depth during a When are classes offered? A primary divers and snorkelers dive, followed by pool and open-water advantage of the Florida Keys over any in-water etiquette such as reef fish dives at the reef. You’ll also learn about other U.S. destination is year-round identification, practicing good , navigation around natural formations tropical weather and clear, warm seas taking care in placement of hands and during a dive. to practice skin diving and fins as well as avoiding touching or Upon passing a knowledge test virtually any day of the year. Training standing on coral. and completing the required number conditions are nice and easy, with light Operators are evaluated yearly. To of dives, students become certified currents and great underwater visibility. identify a Blue Star-rated operator, look recreational scuba divers, eligible to rent Why dive the Keys? Ocean depths for a flag or decal with the Blue Star dive gear and book dive trips to depths from the shoreline to the reef rarely logo displayed on the charter vessel. of about 60 feet with most operations reach 20 feet. The reef lives in waters Visit floridakeys.noaa.gov/onthewater

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135703 KeysTravelerDiver2012.indd 3 2/22/12 9:58 AM A diver inspects a portion of the 510-foot- long Spiegel Grove off Key Largo.

Trekker of ship- Wreck Keys string and a Keys Trek officials destination’s “Wreck Become the tourism a divers Keys certified Spotlighting enhanced Florida have rewarding dives. wrecks, wreck (recommended more operatorsProgram” of join dive series divers to a complete Passport tasks certified) to complete 2.0” Wreck who Trek or wreck operators Keys

“Wreck dive Florida a advanced the be in receive to participating listed 30 dives a than dives five . for nine up to Keys complete entered logbook.who Florida are Trek of dives equipment, Divers print dive all nine con- including packages. to personalized finish is who prizes lodging Those win and challenge to dive dive chance and 2.0” Trek 2014. accessories “Wreck January The through fla-keys.com/diving/wrecktrek tinue

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135703 KeysTravelerDiver2012.indd 4 2/22/12 9:58 AM Trek Florida Keys Shipwrecks

By Julie Botteri • Photograph by Stephen Frink trewn along the length of the Florida Keys island chain in ocean depths ranging from 20 to 130 feet are several notable shipwreck and sites, some centuries old. SReaffirming an appreciation and understanding of the Keys’ maritime heritage, these ships are considered some of the destination’s most attractive underwater assets. An officially named Shipwreck Trail established by the Florida Keys National Marine Sanc- tuary distinguishes a number of historic wreck sites. Some vessels date back to early 1700s Spanish explorers, while others are modern cargo and U.S. military ships intentionally sunk to create artificial reefs, adding further dimension and diversity to the trail. Bookend shipwrecks off Key Largo and Key West support this unique collection. Most notable is the Spiegel Grove, a 510-foot Navy landing ship dock and the third-largest ship ever intentionally sunk to create an artificial reef. It has rested in 130 feet of water about six miles off Key Largo since its sinking in May 2002. In shallow waters off Key Largo lies the City of Washington, a two-masted sailing ves- sel used for passenger transport and cargo trade between New York, Cuba and Mexico. It sank July 10, 1892, in waters 25 feet deep. Also off Key Largo, in 25 to 45 feet of water, is the Benwood. The merchant marine freighter sank in 1942 after a collision with another vessel during World War II blackout conditions. Twin “Treasury Class” 327-foot U.S. Coast Guard cutters, dubbed the Duane and Bibb, rest in nearly 130 feet of water one mile south of , off Key Largo. Advanced divers have enjoyed the twin sites for 25 years. One of the Keys’ oldest wrecks is located off Islamorada’s Indian Key in 18 feet of water. The San Pedro was a 1733 Spanish treasure galleon. The Eagle, a cargo transporter sunk as an artificial reef in 1985, also lies off Islamorada, but much deeper in 110 feet of water. The three-masted bark Adelaide Baker lies south of Duck Key in 20 feet of water. The ship also is called the Conrad. A wreck believed to be the North America lies in 14 feet of water on Delta Shoals east of Sombrero Light. The ship was lost Nov. 25, 1842, while carrying dry goods and furniture. The easily navigable 188-foot Thunderbolt, donated by Florida Power and Light Co. to theMONROE Florida COUNTY Keys PUBLIC LIBRARY Artificial Reef Association, was originally named Randolph. The cable layer was used in researching electrical energy and lightning strikes, and hence renamed. Considered the queen of the Marathon wreck fleet, “T-bolt” was intentionally sunk March 6, 1986, and lies in 120 feet of water four miles south of Marathon. To the west of Looe Key in the Lower Keys lies the 210-foot freighter Adolphus Busch Senior. Since Dec. 5, 1998, divers have been exploring this artificial reef five miles southwest of Big Pine Key. The Amesbury, a former destroyer escort that is better known as Alexander’s Wreck, is broken into two sections 200 yards apart and is five miles west of Key West in 25 feet of water. The most recent addition is the 524-foot Gen. Hoyt S. Vandenberg, a decommissioned Air ship that once tracked space launches off Florida. The second-largest ship in the world ever scuttled to become an artificial reef also starred as a Russian science ship in the 1999 movie “Virus.” On May 27, 2009, it took less than two minutes for Vandenberg to sink in about 140 feet of water seven miles off Key West.

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135703 KeysTravelerDiver2012.indd 5 2/22/12 9:58 AM : Easy to Explore Subsea World

eaturing vivid coral reefs teeming the nation’s first undersea park, Key Bob Care with exotic sea creatures, the Largo’s John Pennekamp Coral Reef FFlorida Keys offer a ready-made State Park, and nearby, the 9-foot-tall vacation paradise that attracts almost 4,000-pound bronze statue known as 800,000 and scuba aficionados “Christ of the Deep.” The underwater each year who can’t wait to get into shrine stands on a concrete base in the water and explore — even as first- approximately 25 feet of water and timers. is one of the most photographed Snorkeling primarily requires a underwater sites in the world. mask, snorkel, fins for propulsion and and Davis Reef, also in inflatable snorkeling vest to enjoy a day the Key Largo area, are easily navigable of underwater sightseeing. Professional among the top of the reef and sandy snorkel charters provide (and rent) ledges. Large groupers and moray eels equipment and simple instruction. Add a cruise among the cliffs and canyons, T-shirt with sun block to protect exposed gullies and archways in depths from 15 backs, waists and legs, and you’re ready to 40 feet. to go. Off Islamorada, Alligator Reef boasts Spectacular coral reefs are a short huge populations of yellowtail snapper, It only takes about 15 minutes to learn how boat ride from the islands, located in grunts, goatfish and damselfish and a to snorkel and enjoy the underwater environ- shallow water that’s often just 10 to 15 mini-wall where lobsters hide in crevices. ment off the Keys. feet deep. Among Marathon’s notable patch well-attended, albeit unusual, event for Some favorite undersea sites include reefs and spur and groove formations snorkelers and divers: the Lower Keys is Sombrero Reef, marked Underwater Music Festival. Stephen Frink by a large lighted tower. You Key West offers snorkelers nearby might see a pair of spotfin offshore wreck and artificial reef sites butterflyfish circle in their including the unique Stargazer project, courting dance, French created by Keys metal sculptor Ann angelfish nip and peck at Labriola. In 22 feet of water, the reef plants, a huge school of 200-foot-long creation is composed grunts slide back and forth of 10 individual steel cutouts of star in a gentle tidal surge or a constellations, each weighing between stingray scour the sandy 2,000 and 8,000 pounds. Each pattern bottom for a snack. is home to abundant marine life. The Lower Keys’ Looe Snorkeling is the perfect family activity Key Reef is one of the most for visitors to the Keys for close, calm spectacular shallow-water observation of the inhabitants of one of Snorkelers explore coral formations in the shallow and undersea environs. Its reef the world’s most diverse, complex and clear waters off the Florida Keys. fish annually play host to a beautiful ecosystems. Museum Showcases Man’s Quest to Dive edicated to collecting, preserving and displaying arti- Dr. Sally Bauer, who co-founded the museum with late hus- facts, antiques, and photographs related to diving and band Joe Bauer, is a Women’s Diving Hall of Fame inductee. Dits heritage, the Florida Keys History of Diving Museum Museum visitors can come within inches of the earliest diving is filled with unique exhibits. In addition, free monthly “Immerse machines, including a full-scale replica of an all-wood diving Yourself” lectures and a new research library are valu- bell, and view the Parade of Nations, an unparal- able educational resources. leled collection of historic hard-hat dive helmets Open since 2005, the History of Diving Museum from around the world. Helmets from 25 nations are boasts 3,000 square feet of interactive exhibits that presented side by side for close inspection. feature the world’s most comprehensive collection of Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., the museum is diving artifacts, representing more than 30 countries. located at mile marker 83 bayside in Islamorada.

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135703 KeysTravelerDiver2012.indd 6 2/22/12 9:58 AM Tim Grollimund

Conserving the Keys: Dive ‘Voluntourism’ Divers assist staff members with cultivation of young at the Coral Restoration Foundation’s coral nursery off the Upper Keys.

ivers can help keep Florida is a grass-roots way of giving people data on marine fish populations. Keys reefs healthy through ownership.” Divers also can contribute through D“voluntourism” vacations, Capturing lionfish helps prevent everyday conservation actions to leave doing things to protect the reef while the invasive Indo-Pacific species from an area cleaner than they found it. volunteering for the greater good, up voraciously preying on invertebrates and Cutting and removing monofilament close and purposefully. juvenile fish such as grunts and hamlets, eliminates a potential Recreational sport divers can and stealing resources from domestic entanglement for other divers. Picking join ongoing coral restoration and species like grouper and snapper. up other lost fishing tackle, such as propagation efforts with marine The popular aquarium fish, probably hooks and sinkers, as well as removing scientists from Key Largo’s Coral introduced to Florida waters in the cans, bottles, plastic and refuse makes Restoration Foundation. They learn 1980s, has no natural reef predators a huge difference over time. about environmental impacts on Florida’s except humans. coralrestoration.org reefs through education and participate The Keys’ Reef Environmental reef.org in hands-on dives to restore endangered Education Foundation, whose mission fla-keys.com/volunteer staghorn and elkhorn corals. The two is to conserve marine ecosystems, are among the reef-building species partnered with the Florida Keys David Gross with the best chance to propagate and National Marine Sanctuary and the dive create new habitats. community to educate divers on how to Volunteers go on working dives to capture and remove lionfish from Keys coral nurseries to clean and prepare waters. corals for planting. An orientation dive Mature lionfish need to be removed at a restoration site shows firsthand the regularly in order to fish down the evolution of corals over time. species and reduce its Atlantic “This is something the average person population to zero. can get their hands on and do,” said Recreational lionfish roundups provide foundation director divers the chance to earn prizes, sample Ken Nedimyer. the edible, tasty fish and help preserve “Volunteers can reef ecosystems. take the experience REEF also enlists divers for back to their home volunteer reef survey and annual fish Diver Patti Gross shows her success in cap- communities — it count projects to help collect and report turing several invasive lionfish off the Keys.

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135703 KeysTravelerDiver2012.indd 7 2/22/12 9:58 AM No Compass Needed Navigating the Keys’ Quirky Underwater Fun he Florida Keys are widely acclaimed for offbeat celebrations, and divers can find quirky, uniquely marine activities along the island chain. T Famous for being an underwater nuptial niche, the continental United States’ only living coral barrier reef offers wedding parties and guests the opportunity to don boutonnières and bathing suits to tie the knot with exotic sea creatures in attendance. One of the most photographed underwater sites in the world is the 9-foot- high “,” a 4,000-pound bronze statue in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary adjacent to Key Largo’s John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Its welcoming arms make a perfect place to exchange “I Do’s.” Annual challenges beneath the sea include Key Largo’s Underwater Pumpkin Carving Contest every October, “egg-sploring” for hidden eggs during the Underwater Easter Egg Hunt and racing along the 524-foot- long Gen. Hoyt S. Vandenberg with diver propulsion vehicles during the Vandenberg Underwater Grand Prix each May. Costumed mermaids, “The Snorkeling Elvises,” an offbeat “Alice in Waterland” tea party and an underwater band complete with tuba all have been spotted over the years at the Lower Keys Underwater Music Festival. The submerged songfest is held each July at Looe Key Reef, an area of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary six miles south of Big Pine Key. Offbeat though these activities may be, many carry a serious message of reef preservation and diver Bob Care

awareness, emphasizing ways to enjoy the reef while Divers “perform” with artistic interpretations of musi- minimizing impacts on the . cal instruments at the Underwater Music Festival. A Famed Naval Andy Newman Merges Scuba Wreck Turns 10 With Snorkeling t was a story that could have been utdoor adventurers who want to blend scripted for a major motion picture, the simplicity of snorkeling and the Ibut no writer could have conceived the The Spiegel Grove begins to sink Oexcitement and freedom of scuba diving plot of the Spiegel Grove. fully in June 2002. in a safe, comfortable and easy way can try In June 2001, after more than a its upside-down bow protruding SNUBA, a method that enables ocean lovers to decade tethered in the U.S. Navy’s above the surface of the water. breathe easily underwater without wearing dive “Mothball Fleet” in Virginia’s James River, Three weeks later, on June 10, gear or earning a certification. Spiegel Grove was towed to undergo a salvage team sunk the vessel “Divers” breathe by means of a 20-foot air line an elaborate cleaning process and 11 fully on its starboard side. July attached to an air supply that sits on a pontoon months later was 9, 2005, brought what many call raft at the water's surface. No prior diving or moved to Key Largo. Hurricane Dennis’ gift to divers, snorkeling experience is required. Six hours before even though the storm skirted After a 1 5- to 20-minute briefing, usually its intended scuttling the Keys. When Dennis was east during the trip to the coral reef, a professionally Tim Grollimund on May 17, 2002, of Cuba it generated powerful trained diving guide takes passengers on an the former 510-foot currents that underwater tour. landing ship dock migrated up the The sport is particularly suited prematurely sank Florida Straits to family adventurers – children and unexpectedly and turned the 8 years and older, as well as rolled over, leaving Grove upright. couples and seniors. Upright on the bot- tom, the ship is a thriving ecosystem.

135703 KeysTravelerDiver2012.indd 8 2/22/12 9:58 AM