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SCS Summer School Fragrance SCS Summer School Fragrance With ‘nose’ Marianne Martin © John Ayres Fragrance Consultant Aims • To inspire your interest in fragrance • To develop an understanding of the process to select the perfect fragrance for a personal care product • To help prepare you for the SCS distance learning diploma examination 2 Learner Outcomes by the end of the session learners will be able to: • Describe at least one extraction techniques for fragrance ingredients of natural origin • Select personal care fragrances against various parameters • Use a smelling blotter 3 Finding out about each other and our sense of smell In groups of 3 to 5 people find out: 1. Each other’s name/s 2. What are each other’s most favourite and/or least favourite smells 3. Any strong memories related to scent 4. Can you identify some of the botanicals? 5. If not describe their odour 6. Explore their odour today even if you believe they are familiar 7. They all contain essential oils in tiny sacs. You can only see the oil sacs with the naked eye in one of the botanicals. Can you see which one? Finding out about each other and our sense of smell In groups of 3 or 5 people: 7. All the botanicals contain essential oils in tiny sacs. You can only see the oil sacs with the naked eye in one of the botanicals. Can you see which one? 8. Choose a spokesperson to relate the most interesting observation or anecdote from your group discussion. Lemon Citrus Medica Limonum • Citrus fruit • Grown in Sicily • Essential oil sacs 0.4-0.6mm diameter • Cold extraction techniques 6 Cold pressed or expressed oil production 7 Lemon Citrus Medica Limonum • The odour of the fresh essential oil is mouth wateringly close to the original • Citrus oils are prone to oxidation and deteriorate quickly • How would you store a citrus oil to improve its shelf life? 8 Rosemary Rosmarinus Officinalis • Herb • Reputed to aid memory • In ancient Greece students would rub rosemary on their foreheads before exams to help them remember 9 Rosemary Rosmarinus Officinalis • Alpha and beta wave patterns in the brain are affected by rosemary • Most people feel more alert but calm when smelling rosemary 10 Rosemary Rosmarinus Officinalis • Rosemary oil contains camphor • Camphor is found in medicated products such as Vick’s vapour rub • In perfumery we use the term camphoraceous meaning smells camphor like camphor 11 Some academic studies confirming the effects of rosemary oil and lavender EEG activity, alertness, and mood were assessed in 40 adults given 3 minutes of aromatherapy using two aromas, lavender (considered a relaxing odor) or rosemary (considered a stimulating odor). Participants were also given simple math computations before and after the therapy. The lavender group showed increased beta power, suggesting increased drowsiness, they had less depressed mood (POMS) and reported feeling more relaxed and performed the math computations faster and more accurately following aromatherapy. The rosemary group, on the other hand, showed decreased frontal alpha and beta power, suggesting increased alertness. They also had lower state anxiety scores, reported feeling more relaxed and alert and they were only faster, not more accurate, at completing the math computations after the aromatherapy session. Diego et al, (1998), Aromatherapy Positively Affects Mood, Eeg Patterns of Alertness and Math Computations, International Journal of Neuroscience A study with 140 participants looked at the effects on memory of lavender oil, rosemary oil and no odour (the control group). The rosemary group showed overall improved quality of memory but with an impairment of speed compared to the control. Moss et al, (2003), Aromas of Rosemary and lavender essential oils differentially affect cognition and mood in healthy adults, International Journal of Neuroscience 12 Clove Buds eugenol Eugenia Caryophyllus • Spice • Contains 75-80% eugenol • What problems might occur in personal care products containing clove oil? Photographs by Tony Burfield 13 Clove Buds Eugenia Caryophyllus eugenol • Spice • Contains 75-80% eugenol • Eugenol is one of the commonly reported EU allergens • How could the addition of clove oil affect the INCI label of a personal care product? Photographs by Tony Burfield 14 Distillation invented in Arabia • The Arabs invented the alembic still • Distillation is mentioned around 200 – 300 CE but the alembic still with a more efficient condensing system is invented around the 11th or 12th century CE • Words beginning with al- are derived from Arabic • “al” is the article or “the” in Arabic manuscript held in Arabic the British Library showing an alembic still 15 Distillation invented in Arabia Translation of the text in the manuscript by LCF students: To my son, You should know that if your flame is too strong the water will rise yellow to where collected and will be ruined. When your flame is utilized in the proper way, you will obtain what you need, having the will and support of God. The Arabic manuscript held in distillate should be kept away the British Library from sunlight until needed; showing an alembic still then take the oil from the water. 16 Stem Distillation 17 Steam Distillation The process • The distillation vessel is loaded or “charged” with the botanical • Steam is passed up through the botanical • The oil sacs are ruptured and the volatile essential vapour is carried with the steam into the “Goose neck” outlet • The essential oil and steam condense in the condenser • Depending on the density of the oil, it either floats or sinks in the collection vessel or “Florentine” flask (the majority of essential oils float) • The oil can be tapped off 18 Fragrances including Clove oil Old Spice, Shulton, 1938 Opium, Yves St Laurent, 1977 19 Frankincense or Olibanum resin Boswellia Carterii • Frankincense oozes from the stems of a bush and hardens in the sun • The bushes grow in arid regions of Yemen and Southern Arabia • In ancient times there was an incense trade route • Wars were fought over the control of frankincense trade Censer 3rd century BC Shabwa, Yemen 20 British museum collection Photo by Muhammad Al Shanfari 21 Frankincense or Olibanum resin Boswellia Carterii • Olibanum is processed by steam distillation to make the essential oil • Olibanum is also extracted using hydrocarbon solvents to make the resinoid • In which products can the sticky resinoids cause problems? 22 Fragrances containing Frankincense or Olibanum resin Boswellia Carterii 2MAN Comme des Garçons 2004 23 Fragrances with Frankincense or Olibanum resin Boswellia Carterii 2 Man, Comme des Garçons, 2004 Rei Kawkubo designer 24 Japanese Perfumery • The Tale of Genji written around 1000 AD has numerous references to fragrance • A chapter dedicated to perfume creation competitions 2 Man, Comme des Garçons, 2004 25 Benzoin INCI name Styrax Benzoin Botanical name Styrax Tonkinensis Geographic Origins Thailand, Indonesia, Philippines Botanical part Exudate from tree trunk Extract Resinoid Odour family Balsamic 26 Fragrances containing benzoin Shalimar, Guerlain, 1925 Jicky, Prada Candy, Guerlain, 1898 Prada, 2011 27 Benzoin Balsamic Family • Balsams are odorous resinous exudates from shrubs found in the desert • They are sweet smelling and warm so vanilla is included in the balsamic odour family although it is from a dried bean • Balsams and balsamic notes include: Olibanum Benzoin Myrrh Frankincense or Olibanum in the perfumery trade Myrrh Opoponax Peru Balsam Tolu Balsam Cistus Labdanum Vanilla 28Vanilla Pink Pepper Shinus Molle • Relatively new perfumery material (1990s onwards) • Extraction method uses • liquid CO2 • under high pressure • in costly equipment • made of 20mm thick stainless steel 29 CO2 Extraction Extraction columns charged with Condenser – Evaporator botanical Containing heat exchangers Liquid CO2 Sump collecting crude storage tank extraction product 30 CO2 Extraction • CO2 is compressed to a liquid and passed through the charge in a series of vessels • The resultant liquid passes to the evaporator • The CO2 evaporates to a gas and is passed back into the condenser and used again • The extract is collected • Some manufacturers use subcritical liquid CO2 • Some manufacturers use supercritical liquid CO2 31 Fragrances including Pink Pepper Pleasures, Estée Lauder, 1995 32 Fragrances including Pink Pepper Eau des Merveilles, Hermes, 2004 33 Tonka bean Dipteryx odorata The tree that yields tonka beans is from central America especially Venezuala 34 Tonka bean Dipteryx odorata Tonka beans contain coumarin 35 The first synthetic used in perfumery Coumarin IUPAC name Chromen-2-one Functional group Lactone Fougère Royale, Houbigant, Occurrence Found in nature 1882 contained about 50% e.g. Tonka beans of the recently synthesised Odour note Powdery chemical coumarin Perfumery uses Part of the bottom note accord Blends well with moss, balsamic notes and other lactones 36 The First “Modern” Perfume The father of fragrance for men • Fougère Royale, Houbigant, 1882 contained about 50% of the then recently synthesised chemical coumarin • Fougère means fern in French • Ferns have little or no odour • Houbigant said in his marketing: “If God had created an odour for fern it would be Fougere Royale” 37 The First “Modern” Perfume The father of fragrance for men • We still use the term Fougère to describe the family of male fine fragrance started by Fougère Royale 38 THE FOUGÈRE ACCORD Fougère Paco Rabanne Drakkar Noir pour homme Hugo Mr Burberry Houbigant Guy Laroche Paco Rabanne Hugo Boss Burberry 1882 1982 1973 1995 2016 1964
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