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SAAFFI Newsletter No.145 7Th May. 2015 Editorial 1. SAAFFI News
SAAFFI Newsletter No.145 7th May. 2015 Editorial In this newsletter we wish to draw our readers’ attention to the Careers Page on the SAAFFI website (http://www.saaffi.co.za/careers.php) . This page offers an opportunity to both job seekers and companies with vacancies to upload their details onto the SAAFFI website. This is a free service and it has proved to be most useful, with exactly the right target audience viewing the posting. So please send us your CV’s and your vacancies…… Another request for our Members is to send through any news items of interest to the F&F industry for inclusion in our newsletter. We would also value comments and feedback regarding the new format of the newsletter. Titles of the articles are hyperlinked into the online publication where the story first appeared. So simply click on the title to follow the link to the original story. Have a great May and get reading…!!! 1. SAAFFI News Welcome to three new members of SAAFFI IMCD IMCD markets and distributes functional food ingredients to the food industry, with technical backup locally and overseas. Glanbia Glanbia is a leader in ingredient solutions, providing customized premixes, amino acids, vitamins, minerals, specialty ingredients and colors for the infant food, food, beverage, sports nutrition and supplement industries. Built on our reputation for outstanding quality and service, we deliver formulation and ingredient expertise that helps our customers strategically optimize their products and propel them to greater success. With production facilities strategically located in North America, Europe and Asia as well as a sales team spanning 19 countries, expert local support is available worldwide. -
Perfume Engineering Perfume Engineering Design, Performance & Classification
Perfume Engineering Perfume Engineering Design, Performance & Classification Miguel A. Teixeira, Oscar Rodríguez, Paula Gomes, Vera Mata, Alírio E. Rodrigues Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering (LSRE) Associate Laboratory Department of Chemical Engineering Faculty of Engineering of University of Porto Porto, Portugal P. Gomes and V. Mata are currently at i-sensis company S. João da Madeira, Portugal AMSTERDAM • BOSTON • HEIDELBERG • LONDON NEW YORK • OXFORD • PARIS • SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO • SINGAPORE • SYDNEY • TOKYO Butterworth-Heinemann is an imprint of Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann is an imprint of Elsevier The Boulevard, Langford Lane, Kidlington, Oxford, OX5 1GB, UK 225 Wyman Street, Waltham, MA 02451, USA First published 2013 Copyright r 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Details on how to seek permission, further information about the Publisher’s permissions policies and our arrangement with organizations such as the Copyright Clearance Center and the Copyright Licensing Agency, can be found at our website: www.elsevier.com/permissions This book and the individual contributions contained in it are protected under copyright by the Publisher (other than as may be noted herein). Notices Knowledge and best practice in this field are constantly changing. As new research and experience broaden our understanding, changes in research methods, professional practices, or medical treatment may become necessary. Practitioners and researchers must always rely on their own experience and knowledge in evaluating and using any information, methods, compounds, or experiments described herein. -
The Scented Word Context, Intrigue, and the Problem of Olfactory Literacy
FRAGRANCES Marlen Elliot Harrison The scented word Context, intrigue, and the problem of olfactory literacy MARLEN ELLIOT HARRISON Indiana University of Pennsylvania 719 Philadelphia St, #306 Indiana, PA 15701, USA and with it a new rhetoric for olfaction. As such, the question ABSTRACT: The prevalence of published materials arises: Can a global readership really ever comprehend the describing, advertising, criticizing, and/or discussing the language and rhetoric of the current writing about olfaction? olfactory realm - specifically concerning personal and What exactly are the vocabulary and classification systems household fragrance and as most recently evidenced by being used and what are the implications for universal the rise in internet publications - emphasizes aroma’s understanding? What exactly is olfactory literacy? popularity and is aiding in an exploration of the language UNESCO offers: “Literacy is the ability to identify, understand, with which olfactory experience is translated. In this paper I interpret, create, communicate and compute, using printed attempt to address the possibilities for a universal olfactive and written materials associated with varying contexts. Literacy literacy through an examination of the English-language involves a continuum of learning to enable an individual to vocabulary, classification approaches, and rhetoric achieve his or her goals, to develop his or her knowledge and currently being used to communicate about olfaction. I potential, and to participate fully in the wider society” (16). It is conclude that like wine and cheese, a universal this definition that I will continue to work with, specifically the classification system is possible, albeit dubious because of idea of literacy itself as enabling communication and both the numerous ideas about and culturally-influenced participation within a specific community (17). -
Le Chypre, Un Parfum Au Cours Des Ages, Cahier Des Alpes –Maritimes N°8 1910’S
Saturday April, 7th - h. 12.30 pm « » With Bruno Hervé OSMOTHEQUE Perfumer and Osmocurator L’Osmothèque - A few figures 4000 PERFUMES IN THE COLLECTION 800 DiSCONTINUED PERFUMES 200 PERFUMES RE-CREATED BASED ON ORIGINAL FORMULAS 27 YEARS OLD INSTITUTION 100 000 VISITORS SINCE IT’S CREATION 5 000 VISITORS EACH YEAR 1500 RARE OR DISCONTUNUED RAW MATERIALS 12 OSMOCURATORS – PERFUMERS INVOLVED 2 SUBSIDIARIES: AU MIP GRASSE / NEW YORK The origin of Chypre Iconic Fragance XVII th – Early XVIII th centuries « La poudre de Chypre » The word “Chypre” or “Cypre” designates an oak tree in Old French. Chypre powder, which has given its name to the Chypre family in perfumery, is made mostly from the moss that lives as a parasite on oak trees. Oak moss is always mixed with bits of bark torn off when moss is harvested, so its smell mingles with the scent of the tannin, a fragrant green component of the oak wood. Long ago fashionable people used Chypre powder to powder their skin or their wig. It was also used in making potpourri, “sachets” and baskets of fragrances. The chypre family The Chypre Family The differents notes: - Bergamot Chypre - Rose - Jasmin Fruity Chypre - Cistus – Labdanum - Oak’s Moss Floral Aldehydic - Patchouli Chypre Leather Chypre Aromatic Chypre Green Chypre Floral Chypre The first Chypres (before 1917) Eau de Chypre Cyprisine Chypre de Paris Guerlain Guerlain Guerlain 1850 1894 1909 Chypre de Tentation Chypre Roger & Gallet Lubin 1893 1898 • Eau de Chypre (Guerlain, near 1850) • Poudre de Riz Chypre (Florida, near 1900) • Chypre -
University of Oklahoma Graduate College
UNIVERSITY OF OKLAHOMA GRADUATE COLLEGE GEOGRAPHIES OF KNOWLEDGE IN THE INTERNATIONAL FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY A DISSERTATION SUBMITTED TO THE GRADUATE FACULTY in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY By BODO KUBARTZ Norman, Oklahoma 2009 GEOGRAPHIES OF KNOWLEDGE IN THE INTERNATIONAL FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY A DISSERTATION APPROVED FOR THE DEPARTMENT OF GEOGRAPHY BY ___________________________ Dr. Fred Shelley, Co-Chair ___________________________ Dr. Bret Wallach, Co-Chair ___________________________ Dr. Robert Cox ___________________________ Dr. Karl Offen ___________________________ Dr. Darren Purcell ___________________________ Dr. Laurel Smith ___________________________ Dr. Andrew Wood © Copyright by BODO KUBARTZ 2009 All Rights Reserved. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The ‘discovery of the world’ has been a stereotypical focus of human geography. However, the research helped me to discover a new world for myself. The fragrance industry delineates a rich landscape of sensorial stimulations. I appreciated not only the experience of smelling perfumes in different environments and the ‘look behind the scenes’ but the diversity of approaches to perfumery in this artistic industry. Therefore, my first ‘thank you’ goes to the industry experts that spend their precious time with me and opened their doors for me in France, Germany, and the United States. Thank you very much for introducing me to a world that you experience, develop, and change every day. Second, a dissertation is a long journey. This one has seen different companions until it came into being. It developed quite a bit over time. My friends in the United States and in Germany contributed through their critique, mental support, active interest, questions, guidance, and feedback. Thus, the second ‘thank you’ goes to all companions. -
Nez, La Revue Olfactive
5/15/2017 The Art and Olfaction Awards à Berlin, les nouveaux horizons de l'art olfactif - Nez, la revue olfactive The Art and Olfaction Awards in Berlin, the new horizons of art olfactory Jeanne Doré 2 reviews (http://www.nez-larevue.fr/notre-actu/the-art-and-olfaction-awards-a-berlin-nouveaux-horizons-de-lart-olfactif/#comments) 12 May 2017 Berlin is a human, warm and inspiring city. It is for this reason that Saskia Wilson-Brown, founder of the (http://artandolfaction.com/) Los Angeles-based Institute of Art & Olfaction (http://artandolfaction.com/) , and Awards (http://www.artandolfactionawards.org/2017awards/) of the same name, decided that the fourth award ceremony will be held this year in this city. Because an event that declares itself international and which wishes to bring together the authors of artistic perfumery from all over the world could not really be conned to the west coast of the United States and we were the rst to be delighted to be able to attend rst time. Thursday 4 May Our ight Paris Orly-Berlin Schönefeld is already olfactory, invaded by the body uids swollen with hormones of a class of high school students as excited and noisy as it is sparkling. On the Alexander Platz U-Bahn quay, it is a currywurst aroma that welcomes us, and reminds us that in Berlin one can calm its hunger at any time, anywhere. On arrival in Mitte, the city is bathed by a cold, tight drizzle, which does not prevent us from going to dinner in a Vietnamese canteen of the district with the scents of phở, frankincense and urinal. -
A Reflec on of My Client: Nathalie Feisthauer at the UK
15/02/2018 A Reflection Of My Client: Nathalie Feisthauer At The UK Launch Of Pelargonium From Aedes De Venustas ~ by Persolaise — Basenote… A Reflecon Of My Client: Nathalie Feisthauer At The UK Launch Of Pelargonium From Aedes De Venustas by Persolaise 09th June, 2017 17 comments http://www.basenotes.net/features/3470-a-reflection-of-my-client-amp-colon-nathalie-feisthauer-at-the-uk-launch-of-pelargonium-from-aedes-de-ve… 1/6 15/02/2018 A Reflection Of My Client: Nathalie Feisthauer At The UK Launch Of Pelargonium From Aedes De Venustas ~ by Persolaise — Basenote… Nathalie Feisthauer I hesitate to use the word 'feisty' about someone whose name is Feisthauer, but it's the main one that keeps popping into my mind as I chat with the creator of Eau Des Merveilles, Putain Des Palaces, Honour Man and now, Pelargonium, the latest fragrance from Aedes De Venustas. Nathalie Feisthauer fizzes with energy. Having spent several years at Symrise and Givaudan, she decided to go independent two years ago, and perhaps some of that bravery of spirit comes through in the way she responds to my questions. She smiles. She giggles. She gesticulates. She veers off into anecdotes. And before the interview begins, she insists on taking a photo of me with Basenotes founder, Grant Osborne, who's by my side. "But I have to have a picture of Persolaise together with Basenotes!" When I manage to turn the attention back on her, I start our conversation by asking her to tell me about her contribution to the Aedes portfolio. -
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions the Fougere & Lavender’S
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions The Fougere & Lavender’s Glen O. Brechbill Fragrance Books Inc. www.perfumerbook.com New Jersey - USA 2011 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill “To my late father and beloved mother without them non of this work would have been possible” II ARRANTING FINE PERFUME COMPOSITIONS - THE FOUGERE LAVENDER’S © This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©. Designed by Glen O. Brechbill Library of Congress Brechbill, Glen O. Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Fougere Lavender’s / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 626 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title. Certificate Registry # TXu1 - 364 - 187 Copyright © 2006 by Glen O. Brechbill All Rights Reserved PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - THE FOUGÈRE & LAVENDER’S About the Book The fougère & lavender's is another favorite fragrance family. Originally this concept was intended for Women. However due to the strength of lavender a major component of this family it ended up as a masculine fragrance concept. -
Letter NATURALS + BEST of the BLOGGERS + LATEST LAUNCHES
THE www.perfumesociety.org NO. 32 - HIGH SUMMER 2018 scentedTHE NEW letter NATURALS + BEST OF THE BLOGGERS + LATEST LAUNCHES Flower power! editor’s LEttER It has been the greatest summer for flowers and gardens that I can ever remember. I’ll be hanging onto the precious memories of rambling roses, scrambling jasmine and aromatic lavender, as autumn arrives. And since fragrance offers us a way of wallowing in the beauty of flowers, 365 days a year, we thought we’d devote this entire issue to flowers – and their infinite power to delight us. A key trend we’re seeing at The Perfume Society is the revival in floral fragrances for men. And why not? Put jasmine or rose or violet on a man’s skin, and we find it’s expressed in a quite different way to a woman’s. Of course, once upon a time, florals were widely-worn among men – back in the days before marketing came into play and fragrances acquired ‘gender’. It probably isn’t coincidence that as that becomes blurred again in the wider world (and about time, too), men’s florals are being worn loudly and proudly. So we asked Darren Scott to hand-pick the best men’s florals – and on p.22, he shares a positive bouquet of them. One perfumery house known for capturing the magic of flowers is LMR Naturals. Who?, I hear you chorus. Well, you may not know LMR’s name – but you’ll no doubt be familiar with dozens of fragrances which include the petalicious notes they extract (via various clever techniques) from nature’s floral bounty. -
Olfactory Workshops by Osmothèque
Olfactory Workshops By Osmothèque Designed for fragrance industry professionals Fougère Royale (1884) HOUBIGANT, Le Fruit Défendu (1914) ROSINE, Chypre (1917) COTY, Crêpe de Chine (1925) MILLOT, Iris Gris (1947) FATH,… Osmothèque: the beginnings From the Greek osme - odor and thêkê - place, the Osmothèque was inaugurated over 20 years ago, in 1990. It has since become the one-of-a- kind olfactory archives that to this day remains unique in the world. The idea of a “Maison des Parfums” (Home of Perfumes) was under evaluation by the technical commission of the Société Française des Parfumeurs for years. The aim was to create a place where professionals and fragrance lovers could rediscover the perfumes they had once known and loved. In addition, the institution was to devote itself to scents long forgotten, to become the only place where lost or discontinued fragrances could be reproduced, classified and archived. In order to realize such an ambitious project, several passionate perfumers, members of the commission, had to show a great deal of commitment and determination. Together they set to revive lost perfumes, creating their records and thus protecting the heritage of the fragrance industry. Those pioneers collected some 400 fragrances, of which 70 were already at the time discontinued. Two institutions have been enthusiastically and determinedly supporting the project: the Comité Français du Parfum (CFP) and the Chambre de Commerce et d’Industrie de Versailles Val d’Oise-Yvelines (CCIV). Thanks to their financial support, the Osmothèque has grown over the years... Jean Kerléo, Osmothèque’s Funder Osmothèque Our nowadays most popular The only place in the world where you can scent lost fragrances WORKSHOPS that once embodied an era. -
Persolaise at Gmail Dot Com, Or Send Perfume Rainbow
0 More Next Blog» Create Blog Sign In Home Le Snob: Perfume Perfume Reviews Published Articles Interviews Shopping Guides Links Books Monday, January 18, 2016 About the author Super Scent - The Very Best Of Etat Libre D'Orange I am a four-time Jasmine Award winning writer and amateur perfumer with a lifelong interest in the world of Etienne De Swardt fine fragrance. I have written for The Sunday Times, THIS POST HAS BEEN SHORTLISTED IN THE Grazia, Glass, The Scented Letter, 'INDEPENDENT - SOUNDBITE' CATEGORY Basenotes.net, Now Smell This and ParfumPlus. I am a regular columnist OF THE 2016/17 UK JASMINE AWARDS for Esprit Magazine. It doesn't seem possible that Etat Libre D'Orange is only 10 years old. My knowledge and expertise have When it blazed its way onto the market in 2006 - in an opening salvo that been recommended by the Financial contained the likes of Sécrétions Magnifiques, Rien, Jasmin & Cigarette, Times, the BBC, The Guardian, The Vraie Blonde and Eloge Du Traitre - it cemented its reputation as a high- Observer, Die Zeit and several other quality enfant terrible with such rapidity that it almost feels as though its publications. anarchic swagger has been a part of the perfume scene for decades. It's a My perfume guide, Le Snob: credit to the vision of its founder and creative director Etienne De Swardt Perfume, is published by Hardie that so many of his facetious fragrances are now considered classics of Grant. For more information and to modern perfumery. order a copy, please click here. Several niche brands claim to be edgy, but at its best, ELDO has walked To read my award winning London the walk unlike any other. -
Collection Osmothèque Juin 2015
Collection Osmothèque Juin 2015 Nom Marque Année lancement Conc Famille Sous famille Parfumeur 1 Parfumeur 2 Nom Marque Année lancement Conc Famille Sous famille Parfumeur 1 Parfumeur 2 Orchidée Blanche ACORELLE R de Rose ACORELLE 2009 EDP Acqua Di Parma Assoluta ACQUA DI PARMA 2003 EDC Hespéridé Hespéridé Jean-Claude Ellena Bertrand Duchaufour Colonia Intensa ACQUA DI PARMA 2007 EDC Boisé Chypré Alberto Morillas Blu Mediterraneo : Mandorlo Di ACQUA DI PARMA 1999 EDC Ambré Fleuri Boisé Sicilia Fico di Amalfi (Blu Mediterraneo) ACQUA DI PARMA 2006 EDT Boisé Vert Iris Nobile (Nobile) ACQUA DI PARMA 2006 EDP Floral Chypré Acqua Di Parma Iris Nobile ACQUA DI PARMA 2006 EDP Floral Musqué Françoise Caron Acqua Di Parma Colonia ACQUA DI PARMA 1916 EDC Hespéridé Colonia Intensa (Colonia) ACQUA DI PARMA 2007 EDC Hespéridé Cuiré Boisé François Demachy Colonia Leather (Colonia) ACQUA DI PARMA 2014 EDCC Aromatique Cuiré François Demachy Colonia Oud (Colonia) ACQUA DI PARMA 2012 EDCC Boisé Cuiré François Demachy Gelsomino Nobile (Nobile) ACQUA DI PARMA 2011 EDP Floral Vert Musqué François Demachy Mirto di Panarea (Blu Mediterraneo) ACQUA DI PARMA 2008 EDT Aromatique Hespéridé François Demachy Profumo (Nobile) ACQUA DI PARMA 2008 EDP Floral Chypré François Demachy Rosa Nobile (Nobile) ACQUA DI PARMA 2014 EDP Floral Musqué François Demachy Adidas ADIDAS EDT Adidas Action ADIDAS 1998 EDT Amore ADRIENNE VITTADINI 2006 EDP Début AIGNER 2013 EDP Ambré Floriental Thomas Fontaine Aknarf AKNARF 1994 EDT Boisé Epicé Bertrand Duchaufour Iquitos ALAIN DELON 1987