The www.perfumesociety.org scentedNO. 30 - Early spring 2018 letter

angela flanders

s of

yardley ’ woods oflondon windsor

floris clive christianatkinsons floral street dunhill london molton miller brown harris

ormondeshay jayne paul

&blue penhaligon smith The best of british FROM ENGLISH SMELLFIES all the FIELDS TO TO MAKE YOU LATEST FLACONS + SMILE + LAUNCHES

editor’s letter

In this edition of The Scented Letter, we invite you to share in a glorious celebration of our British fragrance heritage. Because even beyond our important role to play in the history of fragrance, Britain is once again becoming a fragrant force to be reckoned with.

At the Perfume Society HQ, barely a week goes by without news reaching us of art projects, collaborations and entire new fragrance brands that are completely (and in some cases, literally) home-grown. So we couldn’t be more proud to dedicate an entire edition to all the fragrant excitement on our doorstep.

We start with a fascinating timeline of British perfume houses. On p.11-26, Suzy Nightingale shares the story of many of the famous names which illuminate our scented history, from Floris (founded in 1730 and still going strong on Jermyn Street, in London’s St. James’s), right up to today, with perfume houses like Floral Street, Ormonde Jayne and Shay & Blue flying the flag for home-grown scent creativity on the world stage.

Meanwhile, down in Dorset’s Tarrant Valley, one new British perfume house is daring to make scents that take us from field to flacon. We’ve all heard about field-to-fork, in food circles; today, Parterre are doing that with fragrance. They’re successfully experimenting with growing, distilling and blending ingredients from their own fields, transforming them into stunning contemporary fragrances in a production facility just a few yards away, while confounding the naysayers who doubted that vetiver (among other crops) could ever be encouraged to flourish on our soils. I paid a visit to this incredibly exciting new venture, and report back on p.28.

English Fields also happen to have been the inspiration for Jo Malone London’s latest collection. Tim Walker’s amazing photographs on p.38-41 capture the countryside vibe of the range, with his usual flourish of eccentricity. But what fascinates us, at The Perfume Society, is how English grains – barley, rye, oats and more – have been captured alongside wildflowers in this innovative collection by perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui, who shares the fascinating creative process behind the five scents.

And as a bit of fun, do check out this year’s favourite entries to our #smellfie competition. For the past few years on 21st March – National Fragrance Day – we’ve been inviting our perfume-loving followers to post ‘smellfies’ of themselves with a favourite fragrance (or an entire fragrance wardrobe, in some cases). We love, love, love looking at these creative Instagrams and tweets – and we think you’ll enjoy them too, on p.32.

Can you see our flags waving, from where you are…?

www.perfumesociety.org © natalyon - Fotolia.com. © natalyon The Perfume Society @Perfume_Society ThePerfumeSociety

The scented Letter 3 contributors

scentedThe letter

Darren Scott Victoria Evans Darren is a writer, editor and freelance Victoria is newest to join The Perfume journalist. He’s written for more Society team, helping to curate our Editor publications than he cares to shake a Discovery Boxes, picture-researching Josephine Fairley [email protected] stick at. While Editor of Gay Times, he The Scented Letter and running the developed a keen interest in fragrance all-important Customer Service Desk. Designer and beauty, debunking the myth that After a degree in History of Art, Victoria Jenny Semple you can’t teach an old dog new tricks worked as Gallery Manager for The enquiries@jenny by figuring out how to make an old Jerwood Gallery, and as Programme sempledesign.co.uk dog look younger and smell great. Assistant for Turner Contemporary in Advertising Manager (And he’s not talking about his pug, Margate. She has a longstanding love Lorna McKay Toby). Darren talks about the many of perfume, beauty and fashion, and in [email protected] things that cross his path on Twitter her spare time runs a vintage store on Senior writer @darren_scott and Instagram etsy.com, GoldLadyVintage. Follow her Suzy Nightingale @mrdarrenscott on Instagram: @oioivictoria [email protected]

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Maggie Alderson

HEAD OF SOCIAL MEDIA/EVENTS Carson Parkin-Fairley [email protected]

HEAD OF MARKETING Jodie Young [email protected]

buying assistant Victoria Evans Jodie Young [email protected] Carson Parkin-Fairley Carson – who helped the #smellfie Jodie is our Head of Marketing campaign reach its peak this year – has and Brand Partnerships here at The Contact us recently moved to the Kent seaside Perfume Society. After studying for [email protected] c/o The Clubhouse town of Ramsgate (incidentally salty a degree in Fine Art, she went on 8 St James’s Square seaside scents are her favourite). She to work at advertising agencies in London SW1Y 4JU spends her time taking pretty pictures London and then Sydney. She still 07502-258759 of perfume, dashing to launches, likes to dabble in the arts and has and interviewing perfumers. She has her own studio not far from TPS recently taken up smelling everything – office! When she is not meeting with The Scented Letter is a which often delays her boyfriend brands and working on our marketing free online/downloadable magazine for subscribers whilst on long walks ­– but is essential plans, she can be found running. to The Perfume Society when trying to absorb all the olfactory She just completed her first half delights the world has to offer. Her marathon! Her Instagram name is Instagram is @carsonparkinfairley @jodieleeyoung

The Scented Letter is produced for The Perfume Society by Perfume Discovery Ltd. All information and prices are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication. © 2017 The Perfume Society All text, graphics and illustrations in The Scented Letter are protected by UK and International Copyright Laws, and may not be copied, reprinted, published, translated, hosted or otherwise distributed by any means without explicit permission.

4 The scented Letter contents

OUR FRAGRANT HERITAGE

When We think of the great fragrance houses, our minds may wander across the water to France or the sunny climes of Italy (both of whom regularly duke it out – founded 1730 while laying claim to being floris

‘the birthplace of perfumery’). Selling scents for nearly three Rose Geranium, to be sent to her hotel But for the sheer number of centuries, the long-distinguished in Beverly Hills. house of Floris first began in the The original Floris shop still historical perfume houses dreams of one Juan Famenias Floris, stands on Jermyn Street. (A couple still flourishing – and an ever- who bravely sailed from his native of generations ago, fragrances were Minorca to London in 1730. Marrying actually manufactured two floors below burgeoning number of new an English girl, he settled in business street level, in a basement known as a barber on Jermyn Street within as ‘the mine’.) Recently refurbished, perfumers and fledgling niche the fashionable St. James’s area, first the boutique many other intriguing brands, many independently making hair combs and then assuaging artefacts to discover on display, along his homesickness by blending fragrant with a wide wardrobe of perfumes owned – here at The Perfume oils he’d transported from Europe. (both charmingly ‘vintage’ and Society, we wanted to Customers soon took to ordering refreshingly contemporary) to explore. bespoke blends, all recorded in Edward Bodenham – an ancestor of dedicate a large chunk of this leather-bound ledgers, enabling Floris Juan Famenias Floris himself – is the issue to those who continue could re-create them should further current Perfumery Director at Floris, supplies be required in the future – with fragrance clearly in his blood. As Quintessential to fly the flag for British and thus a legend was born. he explains: ‘I feel immensely proud to be part of the family business scent fragrance. Many of those original ledgers, order forms and letters of thanks and to have the opportunity to help Enjoy the understated elegance of are still in existence, preserved introduce our perfume house to a Floris Jermyn street, the fragrance that by successive generations of the new generation. I have such fond pays homage to their roots – blending This edition of the magazine Floris family, and offering a uniquely memories of visiting the shop from a vetiver and violet with gin-tinged could easily have become an fascinating glimpse of British fragrant young age, and it is very nostalgic for juniper and coriander on a cleanly taste through the ages. Their me to be around the fragrances that I musky base. encyclopaedia. We invite you books boast orders from Admirals have grown up with my whole life. They £120 for 100ml eau de parfum serving under Lord Nelson, Florence really are like old friends to me.’ florislondon.com to explore Britain’s amazing Nightingale, George IV, through to No matter how fascinating or fragrant heritage over the Winston Churchill; in 1820, Floris notable their past, however, no received the first of 16 Royal Warrants perfume house could merely trade following pages – including and retains the title: Perfumers to off their history. So as Edward notes – a quintessential scent HM The Queen Elizabeth II and and new creations like sun-drenched Manufacturers of Toilet Preparations to Oriental Soullé Amber and Honey Oud suggestion for each perfume HRH The Prince of Wales. testify – Floris are ‘always evolving. house that to us, captures And then there was Marilyn We have to be experimental and Monroe. The scent the world’s biggest explorative when working on new their magic. sex-symbol always made sure to fragrances – in just the same way my stock up on? In their extraordinary forefathers were in their day.’ Adding: ‘I archive (some of which is on display hope that they would be proud of our Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, Aenean commodo ligula in the rear of their Jermyn Street creations today.’ consectetuer adipiscing elit. eget dolor. Aenean massa. boutique), Floris happen to have an No question about it, in our minds. Aenean commodo ligula Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, eget dolor. Aenean massa. consectetuer adipiscing elit. order form detailing six bottles of their And we say: here’s to the next 300 Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, Aenean commodo ligula eget surprisingly unisex and greenly fresh years or so, Floris. consectetuer adipiscing elit. dolor. Aenean massa. 12 the scented Letter 11 28 our fragrant heritage green shoots THE BEST OF BRITISH FABULOUS – FROM With home-grown perfumery in FIELD TO FLACON the ascendance, our round-up of Jo Fairley talks to the founders of the finest fragrance houses these Parterre – one of the boldest British isles have to offer fragrance ventures ever launched

32 38 smile, please going with the grain #INSTAGLAM! FIELDS OF DREAMS We celebrated National Fragrance The creative journey for Jo Malone Day with our annual Instagram London’s cereal-inspired collection competition for the best #smellfie (yes, really!) took Mathilde Bijaoui on social media to meadows – and bakeries

42 58 bags of fun it takes me right back ANYA SMELLS (GREAT) THE TARDIS Anya Hindmarch and Lyn Harris We think of scent as a time are the dream team behind the machine – but for editor most happy-making collection and writer Darren Scott his imaginable of scented candles touchstone smell is just that

regulars EDITOR’S lETTER 3 CONTRIBUTORS 4 NOSING AROUND 6 LATEST LAUNCHES 44

The scented Letter 5 on the scent of news nosing around For this edition, we bring you news of lovely layering opportunities – and the ever-more-enchanting world of home fragrance

New & noteworthy

Ashleigh & Burwood conjure up visions of country estates, adventurous eccentrics and pioneering voyagers with their candles and diffusers. Collections have names like Sir Hoppingsworth, Monarch of the Forest and Owl Night Long. £38 each ashleigh-burwod.co.uk

Meanwhile, East Sussex-based Lavender & Lillie’s globetrotting inspirations are reflected in their scented ranges Praslin Seychelles, Palace Road India, Grand Canal Venice and (wave a little flag, please) Dover Street London, with soaps and hand creams on offer alongside the gorgeous silver-lidded candles. From £12 for soap to £42 to candles lavenderandlillie.com

6 The scented Letter Perfume“ follows you; it chases you and lingers behind you. It’s a reference mark. Perfume makes silence talk.

Sonia Rykiel + ” At home with Atelier Cologne

Exciting, or what? Leading Cologne name Atelier Cologne now offer cool- looking candles in Venetian blue apothecary pots, each adorned with a leather tag. The 10 candles are inspired by places, from the Vanille Nolita candle (celebrating the hip New York district where they opened their first boutique), via Orange Positano and Bergamote Shanghai through to Rose London, which has been flickering in the corner of The Perfume Society office while we put together this issue. (The accompanying matches are striking in every way, too.) £55 selfridges.com

A big hand for…

Simply red… Francis Kurkdjian’s new layering Cherished British design star options. Two beautifully-crafted Orla Kiely has chosen geranium fragrances have made their way as the ‘star’ ingredient for her into formulations set to soothe and eye-popping, nose-delighting scent our mitts. Luminous citrus new home fragrance offering, Aqua Universalis and the exquisite, set to burn brightly in homes Marie Antoinette-worthy A la Rose across Blighty. mean our extremities have never Diffuser £32/Candle £25 smelled so gorgeous. johnlewis.com £35 for 70g hand cream franciskurkdjian.com 130 years and flickering Calling all jasmine-lovers: Lalique’s new candle is a must, based on Grasse jasmine – clean, fresh, bright and with just a hint of green to it. Like burning bliss, it comes wrapped up in the sleekest of black vessels, emblazoned with the Lalique anniversary emblem. In the absence of lighting candles on a cake, we’ll light this as a tribute. £62 for 190g (burn time 40-50 hours) lalique.com

The scented Letter 7 on the scent of news

+Flower power Helping to put sustainability firmly on the fragrance agenda is Floral Street’s new bath and body line, in packaging made from a by-product of sugar cane, which is entirely recyclable. But it’s what’s inside that’s got our heart racing, though: gently cleansing Body Wash and luscious Body Cream, infused with four of their contemporary floral scents Wonderland Peony, Iris Goddess, Neon Rose and Wild Vanilla Orchid. In brightly-coloured packaging that also happens to be rather green. £18-22 for 200ml Your chance to become floralstreet.com a ‘perfumer’… Creating a bespoke perfume is something many dream of but few can afford – so step forward The Perfume Studio Bespoke Collection. A DIY kit, it offers 21 pre-blended accords to choose from, each created by esteemed in-house perfumer François Robert. Simply select on-line your favourite six to mix at home (and there’s the option to personalise your bottle for an extra £9.95). £49 theperfumestudio.com L’Occitane’s sweet spot Just opened on cool-again Regent Street, near Piccadilly Circus, is L’Occitane’s spacious 6,450 sq foot flagship store. As if the fragrances, body indulgences and award-winning skincare aren’t enough to lure you inside, whisking you to Provence via sounds and smells, there’s another reason to indulge yourself with a visit: treatments at the Hand Care bar are accompanied by a complimentary Pierre Hermé macaron, from the patissier’s in-store café. 74-76 Regent Street, London W1B 5RL/020-7494 0467 uk.loccitane.com

We’ve heard it all, now… A spoof? Or a whole new fragrance category? Inventor and comedian Attila Csensk has been seeking to crowdfund capital to create Smart Fart, a pill that promises to perfume and mask personal gas, which he hopes ultimately to offer over 150 different fragrance options. (Just for fun, we recommend you check out indiegogo.com – simply key in ‘Smart

© llhedgehogll - Fotolia.com Fart’, and marvel.)

8 The scented Letter a whiff of history

The great noses of our time christopher sheldrake

For this edition of The Scented Serge Lutens on literally dozens of Letter, we’re bringing British creations. perfumer Christopher Sheldrake His bold and diverse signature out of the wings and placing him can be enjoyed in fragrances in the spotlight. For many years, ranging from 1992’s iconic Sheldrake has been intimately Feminité du Bois (with fellow involved with the creation of some nose Pierre Bourdon), via 1993’s truly outstanding scents – including va-va-voom Ambre Sultan, right those produced via a longstanding through to more recent offerings collaboration with Serge Lutens, like L’Orpheline (with its notes of for whom (under Lutens’ creative ashes and musk), and incense- guidance) he has made almost powered L’Incendiaire. He has every fragrance in the line. proved himself extraordinarily Most recently, Sheldrake has deft at translating Serge Lutens’ also been the ‘guardian’ of Chanel’s childhood inspirations and fragrances, ensuring that ‘Chanel took a three-month work experience memories into evocative scents. No.5 always smells like Chanel placement at the fragrance suppliers In 2005, meanwhile, Christopher No.5’, as he once told us. That Charabot; as he puts it, ‘I taught a Sheldrake returned to Chanel means quality-controlling every little bit of English to the perfumers as Director of Research & batch of rose de Maï, ylang ylang, and a retired perfumer taught me a Development for fragrance. When vanilla and more, to make certain little bit about perfume. After about it comes to his present role, he’s that what we spritz onto our skin, three months, he said, “I think you’ve quoted as saying quite simply that year after year, is utterly consistent got a nose. Would you like to stay?” ‘Two noses are better than one.’ – and we’re not just talking No.5, So I stayed another three months, Never one to seek the limelight, but Chanel’s whole scent portfolio. then six months, then two years – and he is said to have been involved His key role, he explains, is to architecture was in the past.’ with Jacques Polge in creating the monitor ‘everything that comes In the early years of his career, debut Les Exclusifs fragrances, into the company – and everything Sheldrake spent a few years working including 28 La Pausa, 31 rue that goes out of the company. That for Chanel in Paris alongside Jacques Cambon and Chanel No.18. And is what the perfumer at Chanel Polge, before leaving for Quest since Olivier Polge arrived at has always done,’ he once told International (now Givaudan). While at Chanel to work alongside his father Basenotes.com. ‘We regularly go Quest, in addition to creating several as Fragrance Creator, Christopher to talk to the people who grow the signature fragrances for SpaceNK, and Sheldrake remains a key member plants, whether it’s rose, jasmine work for Avon, he collaborated with of the Chanel team, continuing to or iris in the south of France, with bring his years of expertise to one our specialists in the of the most dynamic and exciting Indian Ocean – or, perfume houses in history. more recently, with You may never see his name our reforestation on a perfume label. Or even on a programme in New press release, come to that. (And Caledonia [for we’ve a hunch sandalwood].’ that’s perhaps just Originally, how Christopher Christopher Sheldrake likes Sheldrake planned it.) But can we to become an give a well- architect. But deserved round he switched to of applause, perfumery after please, for this spending time in unsung great Grasse, where he’d of the olfactive travelled to work world? on his French. He Jo Fairley

Just a ‘taste’ (as it were) of the fragrances Christopher Sheldrake has been involved in creating

The scented Letter 9 perfumed promotion Let there be light Fragrance experts Molton Brown #AwakenTheCultIcon with their unmistakable Orange & Bergamot – gorgeous new layerable luxuries (and a refresh of the EDT)

First, let’s re-wind: to the hip of London to the light-filled royal …Infuse your bath with the neroli-rich Molton Brown hair salon on London’s courtyards of Seville. Bursting with oil for an indulgently relaxing trip to South Molton Street. In 1973, it bitter orange to set the senses the Mediterranean. Radiant Bathing became the place for rock stars, alive, sun-drenched bergamot and Oil/£39 for 200ml actors, musicians, models and all mandarin trickle into on-trend neroli manner of famous faces to have and a cardamom-flecked freshness …Refine and rejuvenate lacklustre skin their tresses tamed. (The name? of galbanum. Always pushing the with exfoliating bitter orange peel and A combination of the street itself, fragrance boundaries, the floral touch apricot kernels for a silky-soft touch. and the fashion-forward emporium of ylang ylang is actually found here in Radiant Body Polisher/£34 for 275g Brown’s, owned by the salon’s co- the base, entwining cedarwood with founder Caroline Burstein’s parents, its warmth to leave a musky trail with …Massage nourishing dry oil for an just a few doors away.) tendrils of sunshine-infused happiness incandescent glow (we use a smidge Flash forward – to 1984, and the surrounding you like a hug that lasts to tame frizzy hair for a scented swish!) launch of one of the first-ever luxury all day. Radiant Body Oil/£36 for 100ml liquid hand soaps. Could anyone have Destined for a next generation to imagined Molton Brown Orange & fall in love with, we predict life-long …Lavish the fragrance on pulse points Bergamot would go on to become a fans and the newly converted will (layering with moisturising products truly iconic scent…? But since then, be beating a path to Molton Brown helps the scent lock-in to your skin), this inimitable creation has become boutiques to try Orange & Bergamot’s adding to your scarf, hair or jacket incredibly widely-loved – and also luminescent treats on their own skin. for warm wafts of bliss all day. Eau de graced the guest suites of the most And as if the radiantly reinvigorated Toilette/£45 for 50ml distinguished hotels around the eau de toilette wasn’t enough, Orange world. The original eau de toilette, by & Bergamot taps into the hot trend We invite you to share the love for perfumer Michael Pickthall, became a for layering – giving you the chance to these new Orange & Bergamot cult success – but Orange & Bergamot light up your life every single day, with indulgences via #AwakenTheCultIcon. eau de toilette has now been revived the new Body Luxuries collection. So Because don’t we all deserve some and refreshed, and is poised to bring we invite you to… extra sunshine in our lives…? back the sunlight into your life… So: how does a contemporary perfumer work with something so iconic – staying true to the character of the original, while adding a touch of modernity to keep the fragrance utterly fresh? Wisely staying with their original English fragrance house of CPL Aromas, Molton Brown chose their Director of Perfume, Beverley Bayne, to take up the challenge. Inspired by ‘the freshness and longevity with the natural feel of citrus fruits and flowers of Michael’s original creation,’ Beverley emphasises it was important for her ‘to keep his distinctive signature, infusing contemporary ingredients such as blossoming neroli and bright amber whilst upholding its enduringly happy essence.’ ‘Enduringly happy’ is definitely the phrase we’d use to describe Orange & Bergamot. One spritz and you’re Buy them in store or at transported from the damp pavements moltonbrown.co.uk

10 The scented Letter OUR FRAGRANT HERITAGE

best of

best britishof

britishFrom the St. James’s perfumery which scented Georgian royalty through to a modern-day female Indiana Jones of fragrance who searches the jungles for unique ingredients, we present our round-up of the finest fragrance houses these isles have to offer Words: Suzy Nightingale

The scented Letter 25 © eteri; ksena32- Fotolia.com OUR FRAGRANT HERITAGE

When we think of the great fragrance houses, our minds may wander across the water to France or the sunny climes of Italy (both of whom regularly duke it out while laying claim to being ‘the birthplace of perfumery’). But for the sheer number of historical perfume houses still flourishing – and an ever- burgeoning number of new perfumers and fledgling niche brands, many of them independently owned – here at The Perfume Society, we wanted to dedicate a large chunk of this issue to those who are flying the flag for British fragrance.

This edition of the magazine could easily have become an encyclopaedia, actually. But we invite you to explore Britain’s amazing fragrant heritage over the following pages – including a quintessential scent suggestion for each perfume house that to us, captures their magic. Floris’s flagship, top, is barely below the parquet floor is ‘the changed from the picture on the mine’, where fragrances were opposite page. It was recently once bottled on-site – as Michael refitted (retaining many Listed Bodenham (ancestor of current elements of the interior) – but Perfumery Director Edward) can few would guess that two floors be seen doing, above

12 The scented Letter Floris – founded 1730

Selling scents for nearly three Rose Geranium, to be sent to Marilyn’s centuries, the long-distinguished hotel in Beverly Hills. house of Floris first began in the The original Floris shop still stands dreams of one Juan Famenias Floris, on Jermyn Street. Until a couple of who bravely sailed from his native generations ago, fragrances were Minorca to London in 1730. Marrying actually manufactured two floors below an English girl, he settled in business street level, in a basement known as as a barber on Jermyn Street within ‘the mine’. Recently refurbished, the the fashionable St James’s area, boutique offers many other intriguing first making hair combs and then artefacts to discover on display, along assuaging his homesickness by with a wide wardrobe of perfumes blending fragrant oils he’d transported (both charmingly ‘vintage’ and from Europe. Customers soon took to refreshingly contemporary) to explore. ordering bespoke blends, all recorded Edward Bodenham – descended in leather-bound ledgers, enabling from Juan Famenias Floris himself – is Floris to re-create them should further the current Perfumery Director at Floris, supplies be required in the future – with fragrance clearly in his blood. As Quintessential and thus a legend was born. he explains: ‘I feel immensely proud scent Many of those original ledgers, to be part of the family business order forms and letters of thanks and to have the opportunity to help Enjoy the understated elegance of are still in existence, preserved introduce our perfume house to a Floris Jermyn Street, the fragrance by successive generations of the new generation. I have such fond that pays homage to the roots of this Floris family, and offering a uniquely memories of visiting the shop from a perfume house – blending vetiver and fascinating glimpse of British fragrant young age, and it is very nostalgic for violet with gin-tinged juniper and taste through the ages. Their me to be around the fragrances that I coriander on a cleanly musky base. books boast orders from Admirals have grown up with my whole life. They £120 for 100ml eau de parfum serving under Lord Nelson, Florence really are like old friends to me.’ florislondon.com Nightingale, George IV, through to No matter how fascinating or Winston Churchill. In 1820, Floris notable their past, however, no received the first of 16 Royal Warrants perfume house could merely trade and retains the title Perfumers to off their history. So as Edward notes – HM The Queen Elizabeth II and and new creations like sun-drenched Manufacturers of Toilet Preparations to Oriental Soullé Amber and Honey HRH The Prince of Wales. Oud demonstrate – Floris are ‘always And then there was Marilyn evolving. We have to be experimental Monroe. The scent the world’s biggest and explorative when working on new sex-symbol always made sure to fragrances, in just the same way my stock up on? In their extraordinary forefathers were in their day.’ Adding, archive (some of which is on display modestly: ‘I hope that they would be in the rear of their Jermyn Street proud of our creations today.’ boutique), Floris happen to have an No question about it, in our minds. order form detailing six bottles of their And we say: here’s to the next 300 surprisingly unisex and greenly fresh years (or so), Floris. OUR FRAGRANT HERITAGE

yardley london – founded 1770

Whispers of Yardley London‘s roots was recognised as one of the world’s actually go all the way back to the leading soap and perfumery houses – reign of King Charles I, when a young a status cemented in 1910 when they man by the name of William Yardley opened an elegant shop at 8 New is said to have paid the King a large Bond Street. The store became a real sum for the concession to supply all London landmark and a destination the soap for the City of London. The for the well-dressed to seek out their Great Fire of London in 1666 wiped scented goods. out exact details of the enterprise, but Researching this history, it was what we do know is that lavender was interesting to discover how many used to perfume this soap. royals have bestowed their patronage The year 1770 marks the formal on fragrance houses throughout founding of the brand that we now the years – and Yardley London know as Yardley, however – re- have collected a fair few over the established in the City of London centuries. First (in 1921) was Prince by two families, called Cleaver and Edward, eldest son of Edward VII, the Yardley. Their families had become fashionable Prince of Wales who later linked through marriage, when Hermia gave up his throne for Wallis Simpson. Yardley married William Cleaver. Yardley became ‘Purveyors of Soap (Stay with us, here; there are a lot of to King George VI‘, later to our own Williams in this story!) Cleaver then Queen Elizabeth II, and more recently, persuaded his father-in-law to act as in 1995, the Prince of Wales appointed guarantor to Coutts Bank for a £20,000 Yardley London as his manufacturers loan against the Cleaver family soap of toilet preparations. and perfumery business – and when In common with other heritage he couldn’t repay the loan, Hermia’s houses that have continued to thrive, dad had to pay up. He did so – but the Yardley didn’t rest on their laurels (or deal was that the business would be lavender, come to that), with Twiggy known as Yardley, moving forward. becoming their ‘face’ of the swinging They went on to flourish, proudly 60s and supermodel Linda Evangelista exhibiting their wares in Hyde Park’s signed to front their campaigns of Great Exhibition. By 1879 no fewer the 1990s. The traditional scents are than 22 varieties of Yardley soaps still going strong – English Rose, Lily were being shipped to the US. Along of the Valley and English Lavender the way, the business had several remain on their bestsellers list – but name changes – but by 1905, Yardley the contemporary perfumes have also & Co. Ltd. (as it was by then known) gained much acclaim for their quality and value. Polaire, for example, is a genuinely stunning, modern Chypre, Ink a spiced plum and leather-laden Oriental fit for any hipster, while Daisy, Quintessential a dewy green and really delightfully scent fresh perfume, was inspired by Top: This vintage Catherine Middleton (now the ad for Yardley Bond Combining crisp bergamot and Duchess of Cambridge). Street references their earthy clary sage, Yardley English Nearly 400 years after Yardley store on Old Bond Lavender’s elegant lavender heart Street (above). As London first began scenting royalty, is perked further by eucalyptus and their contemporary city-dwellers and tourists from around geranium with a flurry of jasmine, packaging shows, the world with their lavender soap, however, Yardley are chamomile and violet petals on a the fragrance world certainly owes a keeping pace with woody, patchouli base. very great deal to Hermia Yardley’s modern tastes £9.99 for 50ml eau de toilette generous father. yardleylondon.co.uk

14 The scented Letter Wood’s of Windsor – founded 1770

When a small apothecary’s shop china pomanders using lavender opened in 1770 – just a stone’s flowers and rosebuds, inspired by throw from Windsor Castle – it the original formulations. Initially served not only the townsfolk of they were sold from a small shop, Windsor, but also the Royal family converted from a storeroom at and countless of their distinguished the back of the premises – but by visitors, who required beautifully- 1974, Woods of Windsor was being scented products to carry out their showcased in swanky department daily ablutions. stores such as Liberty and Harrods. The fact that we can enjoy these Their sights, however, were fragrant treats today is thanks to an really set on one day releasing a extraordinary scent discovery. It is fine fragrance again. In 1981 they surely every perfume-lover’s dream launched a gentleman’s Cologne, to happen across the original inspired by a fragrance that was recipes for a once-prominent originally used to scent Spanish house – and that happened to leather. To further reinforce the Roger and Kathleen Knowles. In brand’s extraordinary heritage 1970, the couple bought a run- and history, an 1850 etching was down pharmacy and set about added to the logo design. By 1983, clearing away debris that had Woods of Windsor had been truly accumulated in the attics recognised by earning and basements, left a Queen’s Award behind when the Quintessential for Export, their business changed scented goods hands and its scent having been fortunes ebbed carried home and flowed. Woods of Windsor Lily of the in countless Among the Valley is lushly green, sparkling like suitcases, rubble and dewdrops on ruffled white petals. This a fragrant rooms full nodding flower is having a resurgence British of junk, they in the perfume world – and this is a souvenir for stumbled on beautiful rendition. the tourists a particularly £17.99 for 100ml eau de toilette who flock to fragrant treasure: woodsofwindsor.co.uk swoon over ancient recipe books historic Windsor and medical artefacts and its royal treasures dating back to the founding every year. of the shop. Today, Woods of But the real jewel in Windsor’s portfolio this treasure trove was a of fragrances – much- collection of recipes for loved classics, alongside Woods of Windsor’s sleek, pillar bottles those scents, soaps and more contemporary creations are adorned with a that had served the residents like Blue Orchid & Water flag proudly flying of Windsor, centuries before. Lily, and White Jasmine – over Windsor Castle, Fired-up by their discovery, has an eye-catching new a short stroll from in 1976 a newly revived look. But look closely – on their store – which is seen in these then- Woods of Windsor released each label, there is a flag and-now images a room fragrance – Parfum flying proudly over Windsor d’Ambience – with scented Castle, a fitting emblem for a drawer liners and a whole fragrance name that still flies range of perfumery products, the flag for British perfumery including pot pourri and the world over.

The scented Letter 15 Atkinsons – founded 1799

At just 18 years old, James Atkinson of contemporary quirkiness, did something of a Dick Whittington Atkinsons recruited some of the by summoning his British pluck, most celebrated perfumers of packing up his knapsack and our time – including Christine trundling from his home in Nagel, Karine Dubreuil and Cumberland to seek his fortune as Benoist Lapouza – to create a fine perfumer in the big smoke – more than a dozen new London (a city that badly needed shareable fragrances. The result? scenting at that time). As they put it, ‘Atkinsons and the The French Revolution had put growly bear have awoken from their paid to the luxury goods trade slumber refreshed and revived.’ of Paris, and so dandies and Even more excitingly, Atkinsons dilettantes who yearned to indulge has now proudly opened a boutique in the vanities of wearing Colognes in London’s Burlington Arcade – a and using scented soaps and/or few steps away from their former fragrant unguents for their hair, premises on Bond Street – proffering turned instead to the luxuries that a selection of re-worked original London offered them. So legend scents and brand new fragrant has it, James Atkinson brought an delights. In addition to housing the actual bear on the journey from most astonishing archive of bottes Cumberland – we imagine that made and labels in their upstairs ‘drawing for an interesting voyage – to keep room’, there truly is ‘something for outside his first shop in Gerrard everyone’ here (as one of their in- Street, a way of creating a sensation depth fragrance consultations will and drawing the crowds to his prove). Scents range from the more scented goods. The bear was utterly traditional taste that nods to their devoted to James, apparently,and heritage, right through to highly became the icon of Atkinsons, modern blends that dare to dally featuring from the very start on the with exciting blends and humorous lids of their first product (a rose- names – The Big Bad Cedar, Posh scented hair pomade for gentlemen). On The Green, The Oddfellow’s By 1832, more than 40 fragrances Bouquet. Is it a quirk of British were also in production. White perfumeries that they can wear their Rose went on to become the royal history with pride while cheekily wedding perfume of 1893, with tipping their hat to the future? We Princess Alexandra describing it as like to think so. ‘a charming scent.’ Sadly in 1920, following the post-war shortages of raw materials that saw the Quintessential decline of many a fragrance scent house, Atkinsons fell into financial difficulties, before For a time-travelling scent-sation, being relaunched try the newly emblematic, award- and revived in 2013 winning fragrance 24 Old Bond From top: historic by Morris Profumi Street. Juniper, rose and black tea documents, bottles (egged on by John are swirled with oak-casked whisky (and bear statue), Bailey, then President for a bracingly distinctive British now archived in their Burlington Arcade of the British Society perfumed personality. salon (centre) – just of Perfumers). £65 for 50ml eau de Cologne around the corner Retaining plenty atkinsons1799.com from the original of their eccentric Bond Street Atkinsons charm with a dose boutique, bottom

16 The scented Letter OUR FRAGRANT HERITAGE

Penhaligon’s – founded 1870

Hot towels and steamily scented of Wales (granted in 1988) and the delights were the order of the day Duke of Edinburgh (granted in 1956) for customers flocking to the famous to their regal roll call. Piccadilly Turkish Baths on Jermyn 140+ years old they may be, but Street and it was here that William that doesn’t mean the techniques Penhaligon (above) started working as they use are stuck in a time-warp. a hairdresser in the 1860s. Originally Penhaligon’s consistently make from Penzance, Cornwall, his shrewd the most of the newest fragrance eye for business led to him opening a technology – from CO2 extraction to rival salon just down the street a few Nature Print Technology and beyond years later. There, Penhaligon began – promising that ‘each bottle contains creating his very own fragrances, a blend of the very old and very new.’ lotions and potions for a most Those distinctive bottles tap into their discerning clientele to enjoy. history, too; clear glass and brightly 1891 saw what was then coloured bow-ties adorning the Penhaligon’s & Jeavons move to the stoppers are a direct echo of William’s even more prestigious premises of 33 original design. St James Street and 66 Jermyn Street, Still made and produced in with the two stores linked together England, many of the original at the rear. They announced to the fragrances can still be found in the press that not only were they the sole current collection, including Hamman suppliers for the original Penhaligon’s Bouquet. Lately, however, Penhaligon’s ‘hit’ fragrance of Hammam Bouquet, have collaborated with some of the but that both shops boasted a new- greats noses of modern times – fangled invention of electric lighting, a including Bertrand Duchaufour, Olivia novelty at this point in retail. Giacobetti, Olivier Cresp and Alberto Clearly a whizz with the scissors and Morrillas. Penhaligon’s make it quite the scents, Penhaligon was appointed clear that they want to offer something Royal Barber and Perfumer to the more than simply traditional values, Royal Court during Queen Victoria’s saying that for them ‘fragrance is first reign and by 1903 his business was and foremost a passion’, and adding granted its first Royal Warrant from ‘we’re proud that our fragrances Queen Alexandra. Nearly a century have stood the test of time and some and a half later, Penhaligon’s has remain on sale more than 100 years added Royal Warrants from The Prince since their creation.’ Lately, a whole ‘family’ has been added to their already impressive stable of fragrances, the Penhaligon’s Quintessential Portraits. Displaying more than a dash scent of exquisite eccentricity, we’re invited to get to know the characters, like When trimming the Shah of The Ruthless Countess Dorothea, Persia’s beard in 1871, William was who is ‘A most ferocious matriarch, fond of using a splash of Hammam known for her sharp mind, even Bouquet, his first creation. A blend of sharper wit and a secret fondness William Penhaligon lavender, powdery orris, velvety rose, for the company of young men (top centre) attracted creamy sandalwood and musks, it’s and scones.’ While described in a high-class clientele a classic for both sexes. mischievously historical tones, the to his stores – seen £98 for 100ml eau de toilette fragrances completely have their top and bottom, fingers on the button of contemporary with a modern penhaligons.com Penhaligon’s fashions – much like the house of boutique, centre Penhaligon’s itself.

The scented Letter 17 OUR FRAGRANT HERITAGE

Dunhill London – founded 1893

At the dawn of the age of not be defeated. Using that ‘make- do motoring, the creative spark and and mend’ attitude displayed by so resolute spirit of Alfred Dunhill many during the War, he set up a table (left) led him from apprentice right in front of the ruined building at his father Henry’s leather/ and resumed selling pipes within 24 tarpaulin/equine-goods store, to hours of the Luftwaffe bomb. Elegance owning a business that now spans and style were now the watchwords of the world. When Henry retired, he Dunhill, selling blazers, tuxedos and nominated his son to take control of (in 1934) they also launched their first the business – a wise move, for young fragrance, Dunhill For Men. Alfred doubled the turnover within six After paring back their extensive months. In 1896 the Public Highways fragrance portfolio, in 2016 Dunhill Act was passed in Parliament, fuelling recruited Carlos Benaïm to create the craze for motoring (despite there ICON, which scooped a Fragrance being only 20 cars on the road at Foundation Award for its stunning the time!) and Alfred grasped the flacon. Now in several versions, ICON opportunity to grow the business. has helped to ensure that the name Inventing the term ‘Motorities’, with a of Dunhill – quintessentially British, slogan that promised ‘Everything But with an edge of derring-do – remains The Motor’, he began selling clothing, synonymous with timeless style. goggles and all the necessary equipment these fast-living go-getters might require. Always ahead of the game, Alfred invented the dashboard clock in 1903, and with a nose to something more fragrant, the ‘Windproof Pipe’ in 1904 (allowing drivers to enjoy their smoke on-the-go). Interested in tobacco- related paraphernalia, he opened a shop in Duke Street that eventually expanded into the Jermyn Street boutique Dunhill still occupies today. When the Dunhill shop was destroyed during an air raid, Alfred Henry Dunhill Jr. (son of Alfred) was

Quintessential scent

Sleek and racy, ICON’s Italian bergamot and neroli absolute pulse with black pepper, cardamom and lavender, all housed in an intricately textured bottle that doffs the cap Dunhill retain their former (and goggles) to their fabled retail outlet on Jermyn Street (top) – now with a flagship on motoring heritage. Davies Street, bottom. Also £58 for 30ml eau de parfum pictured here are some of their dunhill.com glorious vintage ads, for macs and scent

18 The scented Letter Paul Smith – founded 1970

One of Britain’s foremost fashion where he made friends with people designers, Sir Paul Smith CBE from the local art college, he turned (knighted in 2000 by Queen his attentions to the world of art Elizabeth II for his services to and fashion. Taking evening classes that industry) believes you can in tailoring, Paul joined Lincroft ‘find inspiration in everything’ – a Kilgour on Savile Row, his designs mantra that reflects his signature worn by celebrities including George classic-with-a-twist style and the Best. With his then Royal College of eclectic references in everything he Art graduate girlfriend (now wife) touches. From crisply-cut menswear Pauline Denyer, the couple ploughed to immaculately-tailored women’s all their savings into opening the first clothing and a colourful array of shop in his native Nottingham. immediately recognisable, jaunty The bright lights of London accessories for all, the collection beckoned in 1979, and Paul Smith expanded to include fragrances. was the first fashion boutique to Composed by some of the most open on Covent Garden’s Floral talented noses around (Olivier Street, his relaxed sense of style Pescheux, Antoine Lie, Nathalie taking the suit from something men Lorson, Domitille Bertier, Anne only saved for formal occasions, to Flipo… the list goes on), Paul Smith an outfit that could be dressed down – as with all his projects – also takes with a bright t-shirt and sneakers. a hands-on approach to the entire An attitude of irreverent but well- creative process. mannered, everyday rebellion which It all began as something of an perfectly describes the fragrances accident, though – quite literally, that carry his name, too. as an injury ended Paul Smith’s early dreams From top: Paul Smith in of becoming a his first boutique. His Quintessential Notting Hill flagship. professional scent The stylish Mr. Smith racing cyclist. today – and a Mini During his The rose at the heart of Paul Smith he designed, six-month Rose was specially cultivated for decorated with recovery and named after Paul Smith – given as the stripes that have become his in hospital, a gift from his wife. It marches out of iconic signature the bottle with an effortlessly sensual swagger, sparkling with green tea and woody violets, grounded by cedar and soft musk. £40 for 100ml eau de parfum paulsmith.com © The Design Museum

The scented Letter 19 OUR FRAGRANT HERITAGE

Molton Brown has its roots in a hip hair salon on South Molton Molton Brown Street, where products like the range above – founded 1973 were sold. Today, they have a much more contemporary look – as you can see Beginning life as a hip ‘n’ happenin’ Molton Brown have always been from the Russian hair salon in 1973 – the name is a known for using ahead-of-the-game Leather and Bergamot & Neroli fragrances fusion of that first location (South ingredients - the ground-breaking and their Liverpool Molton Street) and the fashion Black Peppercorn, created by boutique, below boutique Browns, owned by salon co- esteemed nose Jacques Chabert founder Caroline Burstein’s parents in 2002, remains a bestseller - and – Molton Brown can most definitely fusing them with a fashion forward claim to have ‘fragrant roots’. edge. In fact, there have been a They began mixing their original wealth of fragrant ‘firsts’ for this formulations above the barber shop house: developing the first luxury and then, on a slightly larger scale, in hand wash; first to showcase the stables of the family home, with pepper as a featured ingredient; everyone rolling up their sleeves to first to invite perfumistas to wear pitch in. Today, the fragrances are ‘scented tattoos’ in celebration of to be found in the most stylish of a launch (for 2017’s daringly smoky residences, gracing the bathrooms of Russian Leather eau de toilette). luxury five-star hotels and high-end Shared scents, cruelty-free, artisanal department stores across the world, products, perfumed haircare and yet each product is still proudly fragrance layering? They’ve been blended in England. doing them for years…

Quintessential scent

A fresh citrus trio of bergamot, lemon and mandarin, this is lushly green, with petitgrain, cardamom and galbanum revealing a final trail still redolent of dew-kissed neroli, musk and bursting with Seville orange. A hit of happiness, bottled. (To learn much more about this iconic scent, turn to p.10). £45 for 50ml eau de toilette moltonbrown.co.uk

20 The scented Letter Angela Flanders – founded 1985

A fragrant phenomenon, Angela world’s stage. Her Figue Noire was Flanders was an utterly driven and nominated for a FiFi Award in always creative woman with a life- 2006/7, and she won the coveted long passion for perfume, who was trophy for Best New Independent still working – and creating beautiful, Fragrance in 2012 for Precious One award-winning perfumes – into her - a beautiful, mossy Chypre inspired ninth decade. Having studied fashion by her daughter, Kate Evans, who ran and design at Manchester College of a clothing boutique called Precious, Art, Angela’s first success came as a a few yards up the road from her television costume designer, then as mother’s shop. an interior designer. A great year for Flanders, she Opening a shop on London’s also opened a second store in vibrantly diverse Columbia Road, Artillery Passage. As author Tessa selling (in her own words) ‘all Williams comments in her book, Cult manner of bric-à-brac I’d painted and Perfumes, when people walk into an cleaned up to sell,’ the charmingly Angela Flanders shop ‘they know restored Victorian shop began selling they have found something really fragrant pot pourri among the home special…’ When Angela Flanders furnishings. Initially it was sourced died, bequeathing the perfume elsewhere, but Angela started making house to her daughter, Kate Evans, her own when the manufacturer she left a legacy that endures. Taking couldn’t supply her with seasonal the years of knowledge garnered variations she’d requested. Customers from watching and helping her adored her creations, and began mother, Kate has now taken on the asking for matching home and body mantle of perfumer herself, launching products. As with all the challenges Lawn – an exuberantly joyful ode to she faced, Angela, undaunted, simply sunshine and shadows, beautifully rolled up her sleeves and learned how rounded tuberose, jasmine, green to do it herself. leafiness and rain-soaked earth. We It was writing the book, Aromatics, urge you to seek this and the myriad published by Mitchell Beazley in other ‘something special’ scents 1995, which finally set her on the that this woman-powered British path to bottling scents. Utterly fragrance house has to offer. fascinated by the history of fragrance (in particular the writings of a 19th Century perfumer, Septimus Piesse), Angela began to work Quintessential with fine personal fragrance scent – creating scents from her restless imagination and creative Rich, deep and velvety, Columbia inspiration, tirelessly Rose is a rose inspired by Columbia learning the intricacies of Road’s famous Flower Market. Opulently ingredients and trying Oriental in character, luscious crimson new combinations. Damask roses tumble on silken sheets Angela Flanders - above – Worshipped by those of violet, with a wickedly dark base of began her fragrant venture making pot pourri (seen in in the know, the house patchouli and clove buds to tempt and a picture from the archives, remained a word-of- beguile – it has ‘modern classic’ top). Centre is a pencil mouth success until a written all over it. £55 for 30ml eau sketch for her very first label – confluence of events put de parfum angela-flanders- little changed, today Angela Flanders front and perfumer.com centre on the fragrance

The scented Letter 21 OUR FRAGRANT HERITAGE

Clive Christian – founded 1999

We know Clive Christian today handshake commemorating the as a modern house crafting brand’s Victorian heritage, X a tribute memorably contemporary and to the adventures of the Silk Road, highly inventive scents. But dig and No.1 artfully blends some of a little deeper, and fascinatingly the world’s rarest spices. Famously, we can trace their history back to that precious and costly formula was 1872, and the Crown Perfumery marketed as ‘the most expensive company. Crown was once a perfume in the world’. thriving fragrance house serving With a self-proclaimed ‘passion royalty (which Queen Victoria for transforming the expected into granted the symbolic use of the extraordinary’, in recent years the her crown), but eventually fragrances – which can be explored fell on hard times. Enter Clive in velvety splendour in their boutique Christian – renowned interior within Harrods Salon de Parfums – designer with a passion for have taken a more unexpected turn. perfume, who purchased Still resolutely luxurious in nature Crown Perfumery in 1999. and retaining a regal bearing, the He thus saved their iconic juices themselves can be inspired by crowned bottle design from being thrillingly exotic and – in the case of lost forever. But rather than slavishly the Addictive Arts series – daringly harking back to the past, he decided narcotic raw materials, such as that the fragrances inside those hemlock, mandrake and more. bottles should have a finger firmly on ‘Perfumery is an art form, in the the modern pulse. same genre as music and painting. It The Clive Christian Original requires talent, expertise and most of Collection marked the launch of all passion,’ observes Clive (who was their now-iconic fragrance pairings; awarded an OBE by Queen Elizabeth within the line-up, you will always II in the 2012 New Year Honours find a masculine and a feminine List). As Clive Christian concludes interpretation of each shared (and he should know): ‘outstanding inspiration. 1872 is a fragrant perfume creations are forever.’

Quintessential scent Clive Christian, top. Centre: Jubilantly floral, it takes 170 rose an advert for a product from de Mai flowers for every bottle of Crown Perfumery (see also the bottle, right) – which Clive Clive Christian 1872 Feminine – one of bought in 1999, reincarnating those ‘yes, I know I’m fabulous’ fragrances the house as Clive Christian, that seems to become part of the wearer. with a contemporary collection Fruity osmanthus is garlanded by swags of jasmine, violets, freesia and lily of the valley, giving way to woodland notes to ‘rouse the inner nymph.’ £135 for 30ml eau de parfum clivechristian.com

22 The scented Letter Miller Harris – founded 2000

When Lyn Harris originally launched Miller Harris, she helped put modern independent British perfumery firmly back on the map. Lyn spent five years training in Paris, then in Grasse at Robertet – the world’s leader in natural aromatic ingredients – and was already busy creating bespoke fragrances for clients before founding Miller Harris in 2000. More than a decade and a half on, in addition to creating exquisitely crafted fragrances that are innovative yet timeless in character, the perfume house which still carries her name is known for collaborations with an ever- growing raft of artists on creative installations in their own stores that push the boundaries of how we perceive perfume. Clearly, Miller Harris love to fuse art and fragrance – turning to some of the best perfumers in the world. Quintessential These include contemporary young scent blood Matthieu Nardin and genius nose Bertrand Duchafour, who In Tea Tonique, pure sunshine seems recently worked on interpretations to be infused with that most British for Miller Harris inspired by F. Scott of beverages: tea. Celebrated in all its Fitzgerald’s novel Tender is the glory, tea swirls with an iced jasmine Night. Miller Harris breathes colour freshness and later, as it dries, a deeper, and life into the classic perfumer’s darker smokiness that lingers long after art, with complex fragrances the setting of the sun. ‘designed to tell vivid urban stories.’ £75 for 50ml eau de parfum The signature style endures, millerharris.com defined by a love of naturals: distinct greens and woods, with carefully-sourced floral notes, iris from Florence, French violet leaf, jasmine from Egypt, Tunisian orange British. As Miller Harris themselves Founder Lyn Harris, top. flower. But these precious botanicals put it, perfectly: ‘We honour nature Centre: The Perfumer’s Library can be framed in complex and by sourcing the finest raw materials collection pays homage to some of perfumery’s most unconventional ways. Though and preserving the delicacy of precious ingredients, always in the names on the recognisable our ingredients, combining and square bottles – a signature of square bottles often happen to harmonising them in perfumes that Miller Harris be in French, the heartbeat that combine Parisian elegance with throbs through them is definitely London’s eclectic street styles.’ PROGRESS PACKAGING

The scented Letter 23 OUR FRAGRANT HERITAGE

Ormonde Jayne – founded 2002

As a teenager, Linda Pilkington – the event. Having mastered this challenge, true identity of ‘Ormonde Jayne’ – Linda opened the first Ormonde Jayne already had a burning passion for boutique in the Royal Arcade, off perfumery, bewitched ‘by the romance Mayfair’s Bond Street, at a time when of perfume and fragrance bottles independent luxury perfumery – a given to me by my mother and all her category that later became known as friends – to dress my bedroom, and ‘niche’ – was still truly in its infancy. give it an air of splendour,’ as she A perfectionist, Linda collaborates explains it. At that stage, Linda never with genius perfumer Geza Schoen dreamed of her hobby becoming a (made famous by his own Escentric career – instead, the next 14 years Molecules collection), taking were spent travelling and working responsibility for the quality of every around the globe, from South America single material used, sourced from to Africa, via the Far East. around the world, settling for nothing Little did she realise this bohemian but the best and incorporating the travel-bug would one day fuel a unusual, wherever possible. From that quest for exotic ingredients for her hemlock in Ormonde Woman, basmati own fragrance line. From owning and rice in Champaca, to the ultra-rare running a boutique hotel, a soya bean Ta’if rose and beyond, she’s always on farm and even a chain of ice cream the look out for a novel and unique parlours with her own exotic ice cream ingredient. Adds Linda: ‘I’m also very mixtures, Linda was clearly a born proud to have been the first western entrepreneur. On returning to her perfume house to use oudh in an home shores, she set about creating international fragrance.’ a new and unusual collection of Ever blazing a fragrant trail, the perfumes, scented candles and room perfumes and candles are now sprays. One early spray was actually internationally acclaimed (and hand-made in her kitchen with distilled distributed). And while the precious water with a Moulinex blender, before ingredients may come from the four she had an alcohol licence! corners of the world, they are still ‘The idea was to source ingredients proudly, painstakingly transformed not widely used in the perfume into exquisite finished creations right industry,’ Linda explains. ‘If a client here in Britain. asked for a woody fragrance, we showed them Hemlock – the first perfume creation in the world to use that mysterious ingredient. If Quintessential they desired jasmine, scent then we showed them Sampaquita Otherworldly and intense, Ormonde – another fabulous Jayne Ormonde Woman transports you white flower…’ to a mysterious forest – grass, swirls of Private clients misty violets and jasmine entwined in the commissioned undergrowth, a sense of darkness beneath bespoke (as black hemlock works its woody creations, charms) and of lightness above, a cool including breeziness above the canopy of trees. Top: Ormonde Jayne founder Chanel, who £110 for 50ml eau de parfum Linda Pilkington (also requested ‘the ormondejayne.com seen above) sleuthing out perfect scented ingredients in Laos. Centre: a beautiful new-look for the candle’, for an Ormonde Jayne boutique in Mayfair’s Royal Arcade

24 The scented Letter Shay & Blue – founded 2012

Shay & Blue founder Dom De Vetta ingredients. As Dom explains: ‘The believes that modern fragrance blends are left to stand… to mature ‘should stand on the shoulders of for over three months – for richness giants’ of past perfume greats. And and depth,’ before being crafted and he should certainly know about blended in Britain, poured into their those; in his ‘previous life’ he was distinctive blue glass bottles and Senior Vice President at Chanel, showcased in a so-smart, antiques- and Global General Manager of Jo filled flagship store in Marylebone, Malone London. along with many other outlets here But his vision when establishing and abroad. Shay & Blue was to create a new And the name? ‘Shay was my perfume house that encompassed ‘a grandmother’s name,’ explains Dom. company of talented individuals who ‘And who doesn’t love the colour will guard the flame of traditional blue?’ An impressive initial collection fragrance know-how, preserving of six scents has since blossomed quality fragrance-making techniques into a wardrobe for diverse tastes, for future generations.’ To that end, notching up a slew of awards: Best Dom teamed up with the talented New Fragrance House 2014 (from Above: Shay & new-generation perfumer Julie The Beauty Shortlist), winner of Best Blue founders, Massé, who brings to the house Artisan Fragrances 2012 (Monocle), Dominic De and their ever-growing portfolio of and Best Creative Director 2013 Vetta and fragrances her fresh creativity and a from the CaFleureBon website. perfumer Julie traditionally trained know-how. Black Tulip is the most recent Massé – and below, their Born in Grasse, Julie learned launch; a darkly glimmering, Marylbone with some of the perfume world’s richly resinous amalgamation of boutique true legends, including Christine snowdrops and tulip, warm white Nagel and Pierre Bourdon. Dom and chocolate and bosomy-soft woods. Julie also tap in to the expertise of With something for absolutely Grasse producers and their hand- everyone, Shay & Blue’s creativity picked, weighed and distilled raw shows no signs of slowing.

Quintessential scent

Blood Oranges is inspired by those dashingly sexy leather-citrus fragrances of the Belle-Époque’ era, with orange segments glistening like jewels against hot leather, dark woods and amber. A truly shareable scent experience. (If you’re feeling very generous.) From £25 for 10ml eau de parfum shayandblue.com

The scented Letter 25 OUR FRAGRANT HERITAGE

Floral Street – founded 2017

When Michelle Feeney announced she spent decades working in New York was unveiling a fragrance line ‘built on with cult beauty brands, for Michelle the streets of London’, it was bound London has always been the most to set pulses (and pulse-points) racing. happening spot on the entire planet. Her track record is unrivalled: years As Floral Street put it, London of working for Estée Lauder, and then is ‘a city where girls are proud to at the helm of revolutionary tanning bear a token of their heritage, while name St Tropez have made her almost simultaneously embracing the fashion clairvoyant about beauty’s – and now of now to create something entirely perfume’s – Next Big Thing. new.’ Michelle concludes: ‘My mission Her mission: to place sustainability is to bring fine fragrance to the firmly on the fragrance agenda modern female, so that she might – packaging is made of recycled build an entire fragrance wardrobe, materials, for instance – while offering which can express the many facets a range of fragrances that reaches of who she is.’ And we say: Britain’s out to a new, young audience. Floral fabulous fragrant landscape just got Street’s blossom-laden offerings are as even more exciting. thrillingly far from your granny’s florals as it’s possible to get – each created For further reading, we recommend by the star perfumer Jérôme Épinette, British Perfumery: A Fragrant History, known for his mastery of natural compiled by The British Society of ingredients. As Floral Street put it: Perfumers (editor: John Bailey)/£30 ‘These are bunches, not bouquets. bsp.org.uk Ingredients, not notes. And it’s about ease, modernity and joy.’ The name was serendipity, meanwhile, when Michelle glanced up Quintessential at a street sign in Covent Garden, and scent thought: ‘What a brilliant name for a fragrance house.’ And although she A ‘love letter’ to ‘a city that sees the sun through the crowds’, London Poppy is vibrant as a brightly-lit spring morning, Beauty dynamo bursting with zesty citrus, ozonic spray like Michelle a sudden downpour amid sprigs of neroli, Feeney has now turned jasmine sambac and apricot blossom, her talents to before a base of hinoki woods, black ‘modern floral amber and cedarwood. From perfumes’ – £20 for 10ml eau de parfum with (left) this floralstreet.com floriferous boutique in Covent Garden

26 The scented Letter Available at Harrods, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols FOLLOWSrn femininity YOUR NOSE fabulousness FROM FIELD TO FLACON

In Dorset’s Tarrant Valley, on the Keyneston Mill estate, one of the boldest British fragrance ventures ever launched is taking root. Jo Fairley talks to the founders of Parterre

24 The scented Letter There’s a lot to be said for following your nose bottled, marks a farming revolution akin to the revolutions on holiday – because you really do never know where in British wine, cheese and gin: sniff at it now, but you will serendipity might lead you. In 2014, David and Julia be lured in soon enough.’ Bridger were motoring around the South of France, when David and Julia certainly didn’t stint when it came Julia recalled – with affection – having visited the hillside to recruiting the Parterre team. Their slogan might be: town of Grasse, as a child. ‘I remembered the whole town ‘Adventures in botany’, but their motto might as well be: ‘I smelling of roses,’ she says. So the couple steered their car don’t know how to do that… but I know a man who does.’ in the direction of the hillside town and made a bee-line for Actually, in several cases, a woman who does – starting one of Grasse’s perfume museums. Later, walking through with Virginie Daniau, President of the British Society the museum’s garden – a-bloom with fragrant flowers – a of Perfumers and one of the perfume industry’s most seed was sown. ‘We thought: maybe this is something we knowledgeable evaluators, who has been involved from the could do ourselves…’ start. Virginie put David and Julia in touch with the Chabert David’s family had been in farming for almost 400 perfumer family – father Jacques and daughters Elsa and years, so horticulture runs in his veins – even though Carla – who have between them created the debut trio of most of his career had been spent in marketing. Julia, fragrances, Run of the River, A Tribute to Edith and Root meanwhile, had wide experience in advertising, going on of all Goodness, as well as others in the pipeline. (Jacques to run a luxury villa travel company. is best-known for creating the Molton Together, the pair (at that point based Brown classic Black Pepper, but has in Hampshire) began looking around also worked with Guerlain and Chanel.) for a farm of their own to buy, before These skilled individuals aren’t the stumbling across the ‘sleeping beauty’ After a visit to a only experts David and Julia have of Keyneston Mill. It had fields – 50 “ recruited. Elton John’s former head acres of them. A run-down mill house Grasse perfume gardener Stuart Nielson is looking and some crumbling outbuildings. An after the planting (he also worked overgrown orchard. But lots and lots of museum, we at the Savill Garden and the Crown potential not only to fulfill their dream Estate Windsor Great Park), overseeing of actually growing and distilling thought: maybe this a whole team of horticulturalists. perfume ingredients right there, in Nanette Wraith is Keyneston Mill’s the Dorset countryside, but to show is something we Head of Aromatic Plants & Crops, visitors how it’s done, as they’d so coming to the project from the Royal enjoyed in Grasse. could do ourselves Horticultural Society, Wisley, where she This adventure in botany has taken David Bridger was in charge of the herb garden. over four years – but the vision has On the distillation side, Ben now become reality. Over 2,000 Greenwell glories in the title ‘Maître du aromatic plants and flowers are now Feuillage’ – master of foliage – with his being grown just 20 minutes from Poole – including role covering anything to do with plant materials, including rose geranium (more of which anon), melissa, hyssop, running the” distillery. Zohra Khaliq is Head of Botanical chamomile, angelica, artemisia, clary sage, yarrow, Extracts, managing the laboratory. And when you’re bergamot mint and red thyme. Many of them have made looking for a consultant chemist who really knows his stuff, it into the limited edition, numbered flacons of Parterre why not aim high and recruit the former Technical Director fragrance now on sale at spiffy Piccadilly department store at Chanel for 18 years? Thus Alan Pettitt completes the Fortnum & Mason, as well as via their own website. ‘Our fragrance team, brilliantly skilled in assessing exactly when mission is to grow the most unusual plants we can source,’ each ingredient is best harvested, distilled and refined. explains Julia. ‘Each plant is then trialled, harvested (There is an equally talented line-up behind the on-site and distilled on site – and this process captures the very bistro, The Scented Botanist, meanwhile, where local essence of each aromatic variety.’ suppliers, wild foods, suitably aromatic dishes and fragrant Nobody who visits Keyneston Mill, however, should be cocktails feature on a very exciting menu.) in any doubt about the determination and sheer hard work Poring over books on the growing of aromatic plants that have gone into literally bottling the Dorset landscape. gave David, Julia and their team the first clues as to Alice du Parcq nailed it in The Telegraph Magazine, which potential fragrance ingredients might flourish ‘When I first heard of the fragrance brand and distillery, in the UK, on a large scale. Of particular help, David I had dismissive visions of a quaint kitchen garden with recalls, was an 1823 volume of Curtis’s Botanical Plants, hobbyists mixing tinctures in the greenhouse to sell at alongside Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, farmers’ markets. Excuse me while I go and eat my words. Steffan Arctander’s definitive work on the subject. This game-changing enterprise spearheads a new breed ‘When the research was done, we broadly divided the of perfumery… British fragrance, home-grown and home- plants into: “easy and straightforward”, “tricky but

The scented Letter 29 FOLLOW YOUR NOSE

possible”, and “impossible,’” notes David. world-class fragrances is going to require a wider palette Geranium, or Pelargonium graveolens, for instance, of notes than even Dorset can offer. Jacques and daughter looked extremely promising from the start: it has been Carla, then, have taken Keyneston Mill’s high-quality grown on British soils for two to three hundred years, and tinctures and oils, blending them with naturals (and some has duly flourished abundantly at Keyneston Mill. ‘Two synthetics) from around the world, in keeping with the usual years ago, just 300 plants were in cultivation; this year, that methods of perfume construction. Having said that, ‘the number will rise to 3,000,’ continues David. Many different Keyneston Mill ingredients are the foundation on which the methods of extraction are still being experimented with fragrances are built,’ notes David. at Keyneston Mill – including the making of tinctures, and Crucially, ‘the amount available to Jacques of any even enfleurage – but the most widely-used is distillation, ingredient determines how many numbered bottles we can which is used for the geranium. ‘We have four steam stills: produce, dictated by the lowest quantity of an ingredient three 500-litre stills, and one 50-litre still,’ explains David. available for that particular composition,’ he adds. As a Julia adds affectionately that the stills have all acquired result, the bottles – hand-numbered, as are the boxes – are names, along the way (Dorothy, Violet, Genevieve, Daisy). collectors’ items, with just a few hundred available of 2017’s Parterre actually transported the smallest still – Daisy ‘harvest’, in each of the three fragrances. – to the reader event The Perfume Society staged with The audience at our Perfume Society evening were Rakesprogress late in 2017, at that magazine’s pop-up extremely privileged: mostly, the distillation of perfume shop in Covent Garden – probably the first fragrance event ingredients is hidden from sight. But – inspired by that visit in history to offer live distillation (of the aforementioned to Grasse – the Bridgers are now opening up a workshop geranium leaves). The audience watched transfixed as within the Keyneston Mill distillery, organising an exciting a packed glass still of bright green, freshly-harvested programme of perfume events and allowing visitors the geranium had steam passed through chance to witness this field-to-flacon it, gradually wilting over the space process. And of course, to visit the of the evening to a somewhat less gardens, which are divided into ‘rooms’ attractive brown mess at the bottom. (hence the name, Parterre). In addition But that didn’t matter; the water Our mission is to the Padua Garden (roses, jasmine, vapour had risen, taking with it small geranium, etc.), there is the Fougère amounts of the fragrant compounds in “ Garden, inspired by the ferniness of to grow the most the form of oil; this was diverted into a that fragrance family (and featuring flask where it separated, allowing the unusual plants plenty of lavender, another signature amazingly scented geranium oil to be fougère ingredient); in summer, you’ll extracted with ease. we can source – also be able to check out the collection As a fragrance note, the Chaberts of citrus trees. (Can I also perhaps have placed geranium as a star harvesting and recommend heading for the Cocktail ingredient in A Tribute to Edith – an Dome, to sip on a vetiver- or geranium- elegant, rosy-posy ultra-feminine distilling them on site infused tipple…?) confection which (as David puts it), In addition to the astonishing ‘was inspired by a love of Paris, and Julia Bridger amount of work going on in Dorset, the Jazz Age’. If fresh fragrances are the Keyneston Mill team embarks upon more your thing, though, then head an international foraging expedition for Run of the River, inspired by the each year, setting out to identify Tarrant (which flows beside David and Julia’s mill home), other promising botanicals for extraction. There’s no using Dorset-grown bergamot mint, clary sage and lemon end, seemingly,” to their inventiveness. Can’t grow tonka thyme, mixed with orange flower, lemon and lime. in Dorset? ‘Tonka gets its chocolatiness from coumarin,’ Root of all Goodness, meanwhile, ‘was created reveals David, ‘which is found in sweet vernal grass. So specifically to showcase our Dorset vetiver,’ explains David, we’re experimenting with that, too.’ warming the earthy dryness with spicy ginger, among other Parterre Keyneston Mill is certainly one of the most elements. And who could have predicted the successful ambitious fragrance projects I’ve ever had the pleasure of cultivation of this deep-rooted, earthily-scented grass, more visiting. But it’s also one of the most spine-tinglingly, sense- normally sourced from Southern India or Haiti, in England’s drenchingly exciting. Long may the Bridgers – and their West Country? ‘What we’ve learned is that it might not bounteous fragrant fields – flourish. (And let’s hear it, for grow as fast as it does in 26 degrees, but the oil turmed out daring to follow your nose.) to be terrific.’ And there’s the rub. Because perfumer Jacques Chabert Parterre fragrances are priced £95-120 for 50ml eau de has a reputation to protect – and as he told me at Parterre’s parfum. To buy the fragrances – samples are also available launch, ‘I retain the right to refuse to use any ingredients on-line – visit parterrekeynestonmill.com, where you can which I don’t consider to be good enough.’ Happily, while also find information about garden and restaurant opening enthusiastic about using (almost literally) home-grown hours, as well as the programme of workshops. Watch our ingredients as often as possible, the Bridgers have also own EVENTS page on perfumesociety.org – we hope to been pragmatic about the fact that creating fully-rounded, organise a Perfume Society outing to Keyneston Mill.

30 The scented Letter Below: The Cocktail Dome. Right: Parterre harvest, dry and distill on the farm for their fragrances (centre)

From above left: extracted oils; rose geranium processing; vetiver growing in Dorset; Keyneston Mill farmhouse; plant ingredients macerating in oils in the distillery

The scented Letter 25 scent gets social

#Smellfie Day 2018 21st March is National Fragrance Day. And for the past four years, The Perfume Society has invited perfumistas across Britain (and indeed, around the globe) to celebrate by posting a #smellfie, via social media. Here’s a gallery of our favourites…

sorayabakhtiar louchavezla

ctilburymakeup

32 The scented Letter The idea: we ask you to post a photo of yourself Here, we’re delighted to share just handful of our with a favourite perfume, to tag us – and tag favourites – including the winners, who all receive a copy of #nationalfragranceday, on Twitter and Instagram. The Perfume Bible (by our co-founders Lorna McKay and Jo The reality: despite the success of previous years, we Fairley), with a year’s subscription to The Scented Letter for were completely unprepared for how many of you took the overall winner, @evenblondernow. (We’ll be sending her part this year. copies of the magazine all the way to Germany). Before that, For the whole of National Fragrance Day (stragglers keep though, the whole team at The Perfume Society would like it up for about 48 hours, actually), we had massive smiles to give a massive shout-out to Carson Parkin-Fairley, who is on our faces – wowed by the creativity, humour and sheer shortlisted for a Jasmine Award for 2017’s #smellfie day, in love for perfume which your #smellfies capture. Bloggers, the Social media campaign category, was just announced. perfume houses, perfumers, perfumistas of all kinds (plus the (You can see Carson’s #smellfie on p.4.) odd Instagram star dog!) get involved – and this year, even And can we suggest you put 21st March 2019 in your Katy Perry posted a #smellfie. (Cue whoops in The Perfume diaries, right now – so you can star thinking of creative ways Society office.) to share the love?

The scented Letter 33 The scented Letter 33 evenblondernow runner-up

winner ugoartperfume

our wınners

runner-up

runner-up

violinplayah

runner-up

runner-up patentpurplelife

lookfeelsmellgreat

greekgoddessldn

The scented Letter 33 mrcologne76 fields of dreams When Jo Malone London unveiled the limited edition English Fields collection to us, the photo we took at the breakfast launch (overleaf) became our most-liked Instagram ever. Now, reports Jo Fairley, the wait is over for this so-British collection – which captures our landscape, in five stylish bottles. Main photos: TIM AW LKER GOING WITH THE GRAIN “

The love shown for that #insta meadows and fields, touching the soft image can’t just be down to the grasses and dried hay and picking the millennial-friendly, so-pretty colours. wild flowers, surrounded by muted (Although who wouldn’t love the golds and greens. She likes challenges ice cream shades of this Jo Malone and this definitely had a lot of them. London line-up?) To make refined, elegant fragrances No. At The Perfume Society, our using grains is not an easy task!’ hunch is that there is something Smiles Mathilde: ‘English Fields is about the inspiration behind the so unexpected – and as a perfumer I English Fields collection – a harvest of love that. Making cereals and grains five fragrances, based on innovative the main focus is a first for me, a new notes of grains – which taps into territory, somewhere as a perfumer our need to get back to nature, to I have never been before. The way I feel grounded and connect with the work was a good match to this project, landscape, in this high-tech world. as I merge all the senses together – We’ve seen interesting ‘edible’ smell, touch, vision – and I love having ingredients swing into vogue, lately. Making cereals and colours in my mind when I work. It Vegetable notes, sitting alongside grains the main focus helps me create something coherent. the more familiar flowers – from “ Also, I love eating and am very green edamame in B. Balenciaga to is a first for me, a new “gourmand”, so this was the perfect the fennel and celery of Elizabeth project for me.’ Arden Green Tea, carrot seed (in territory, somewhere ‘We wanted to focus on several Penhaligon’s Vaara) and pumpkin as a perfumer I have cereals such as wheat, barley and rye,’ in État Libre d’Orange Like This. But continues Celine. ‘But since they all grain notes are something new again. never been before have very different olfactive qualities Here, Master Perfumer Mathilde it felt more natural to pair them Bijaoui – of MANE fragrance house Mathilde Bijaoui individually with complementing wild – and Celine Roux, Head of Global flowers. Before we started creating Fragrance Jo Malone London, share the scents we already had an idea of the ideas behind a collection which what combinations would work for this takes grains and seeds and places I love the sense of abundance and as there was a natural rhythm to the them firmly in the fragrant frame. generosity each crop cycle brings.” The names of the ingredients. We spoke landscape can be a bit random too; for hours about all the flowers and Explains Celine: ‘Growing up in you have cultivated fields that look cereals we could find in the English France, I spent many summers in the very organised and graphic, then pops countryside, then it was a case of mix- countryside surrounded by fields of of flowers and lush pastures that you and-match. Often we spoke in colours, wheat and corn, experiencing the cannot control. There is real beauty using terms such as primrose yellow, time of harvest and the smell when in this disorder and imperfection, and cornflower blue, meadowsweet, white they crop the wheat. Since moving to that was the twist I wanted to capture and red poppy.’ the UK and having spent time in the in this collection.’ Researching the fragrances clearly English countryside, I’ve developed Recently, Jo Malone London has had some perks. Recalls Celine, a fascination with the textures, tapped into the talents of perfumer ‘Mathilde and I visited an organic ingredients and colours of grains and Anne Flipo and Yann Vasnier, for the bakery to get a sense of how the cereals and the harvest traditions in limited edition Herb Garden and various grains smelt and felt. The most Britain. That’s when I started to think Bloomsbury collections. But for English interesting part was when the owner this could become a scent concept. Fields, explains Celine, Mathilde – who of the bakery took us to the basement Olfactive newness is constantly on had previously created Myrrh & Tonka where they had all the ingredients. my mind and I felt that the essence Cologne Intense, and Christmas 2017’s The sweet, nutty scent of the sour of these fields of gold crops could be hugely successful Green Almond & dough, the texture of the seeds in the captured and bottled.’ Redcurrant Cologne (with its matching sack and the creaminess of the milled ‘There is so much that appeals to candle) – was an obvious choice. flour… we went through them one by me when I think of English fields,’ ‘[She] has a very interesting approach one and we both felt the overall smell she continues. ‘The different shades to creating fragrances,’ notes Celine. was very warm and comforting.’ of yellow and ochre and bronze, ‘Mathilde thinks of smells in textures Most of those notes, Mathilde the soft rolling horizon, the sunny and colours – and this was a big part explains, then had to be recreated warmth, wholesome smells and shots of the concept: to capture the warmth as accords, ‘as they’re not available of vivid colour from meadow flowers. and sensation of walking through as natural extracts. So it was a case

40 The scented Letter of combining a few different notes ● Poppy & Barley ‘Poppies don’t have a specific scent, so I created an to capture the concept of the grains. accord of green notes and red rose to express the colours and vivacity of the However I did have one unique poppy fields. I liked how fragile poppies are – they can break so easily, and extract: bran absolute, which was a that’s why the contrast of barley works so well as it is something quite solid perfect ingredient to add into some and secure. I added some fig and violet flowers to bring a rounded and edible of the fragrances because it has a facet to the scent, then used the bran absolute to emulate the nourishing and woody, slightly licorice effect and gives savoury warmth of barley. Celine told me she wanted a “cotton” effect, so the wonderful texture to a fragrance. We white musk brings that sense of softness to the base.’ also used a hazelnut extract to emulate ● Primrose & Rye ‘I remember sitting in a café with Celine and she told a “crunchy bread” idea, and a coconut me she wanted something very yellow and sunny with a touch of smokiness. extract to mimic the powdery silkiness Primroses are the perfect joyful yellow flower, adding corn, coconut and of flour. For the floral notes it was mimosa to enhance that rich, hazy and solar effect. For the smoky warmth, all about contrasts and vibrations – I thought back to the bakery trip and the smell of rye; it had hints of vanilla something beautifully unexpected.’ – not sweet vanilla but spicy vanilla extract, which can be a bit woody and And here, in greater detail, Mathilde animalic – and an earthiness, too.’ explains how she (brilliantly) captured ● Oat & Cornflower ‘I wanted to replicate the nuttiness of oats so I the English fields, flowers – and grains included some hazelnut and enhanced the fragrance with a warm, sweet – in fragrant form… tobacco, benzoin and earthy vetiver. For the cornflower effect, again there is no direct extract so I created a very poetic concept using hedione, which Our #Insta: 1,779 likes (and counting) has a fresh, airy floral scent. It opens up the fragrance with a luminous transparency.’ ● Honey & Crocus ‘The honey note had to be just right for this. There are some honeys that are too sticky and too waxy, but for this fragrance I chose one that was closer to the smell of fresh hay. It’s soft and warm and quite similar to British lavender honey. I highlighted its freshness with a lavender extract. In the middle of working on this collection, Celine suggested adding almond milk. It brought a new texture, almost like a condensed creamy syrup that balanced out the floral tones.’ ● Green Wheat & Meadowsweet ‘I used some grapefruit to draw out the fresh youth of the wheat. I love the dryness that the vetiver brings too; it’s such an earthy note and for me it resonated with the concept of green wheat. It’s the freshest of the collection – and represents the cereals before they mature into grains.’ Jo Malone London English Fields Colognes/£47 for 30ml Cologne jomalone.co.uk

The scented Letter 41 perfumed promotion

Anya Smells (great)... The much-loved British accessories designer always dreamed of a fragrance line – and it begins with this happy-making collection of candles, says Jo Fairley

Anya Hindmarch has always worn Miller Harris). She explains: ‘We of frankincense,’ its perfumer tells her sense of humour on her designer had been talking about this for a us. Lyn continues: ‘Ultimately, these sleeve. Sure, her exquisite leather long time, but the actual briefing “addictive” smells embody English handbags, satchels, purses and and development took over a year, obsessions. ‘Everyone can relate to shoppers have long been carried by because Anya will only launch them. They’re about familiarity, with stylish women the world over (she something once perfection has been an edge.’ founded her business in London in achieved! I loved the process. For Fragrance will follow (we can’t 1987). But at the same time, Anya me it was all about getting inside wait), but spring 2018 sees the Hindmarch CBE has never been shy the world of Anya, and her magic. launch of a further trio of candles: of putting a smile on the faces of her Although I did add a few special Lip Balm (all dark cherry, plum flesh, many fans. From her £5 ‘I Am Not A “Lyn” touches, of course!’ night-blooming jasmine, rose, tonka Plastic Bag’ tote (which helped put Hand-poured in England, the and musk), Toothpaste (yes, really, sustainability on the luxury fashion debut trio of candles – in their with its notes of spearmint, French agenda all the way back in 2007), cheeky, eye-catching packaging and peppermint, candyfloss and rhubarb through to the ‘Build a Bag’ Creature containers, finished with graphics stalk), and Washing Powder (inspired line – which you can currently from the Anya Hindmarch Sticker by the scent of fresh-dried laundry, personalise via her website with Shop – capture some of Anya’s most with notes of Calone, violet leaf, cheeky eyes, goofy teeth and/or arms nostalgic aromas. Soft Oriental Baby cucumber, galbanum, honeysuckle – the designer is renowned today not Powder, for instance, was inspired and first-bloom crocus). You can even only for craftsmanship, creativity and by happy memories of new babies. make the boxes your own (they’re personalisation, but for her wit. As Lyn puts it: ‘Clean sheets, clean definitely too fun to throw away), So it came as no surprise that laundry, clean babies… rose petals, by twisting them to create different when Anya Hindmarch launched a violets, vanilla and lots of musk.’ phrases and faces. debut fragrance line, with a trio of Solar floralSun Lotion whisks Can our homes smile? With these sublime candles, they were created in us straight to carefree days, its candles and their joyful scents, Anya exactly that spirit. ‘My obsession has inspiration Anya’s sun-drenched Hindmarch makes us think: they always been with the combination family summers. ‘Those really happy almost certainly can. of playfulness, irreverence, with the summer moments, with sun-kissed critical ingredient of craftsmanship,’ skin and suntan lotion. Orange the designer explains. blossom fused with a citrus sparkle,’ And so it was with this in mind, is how Lyn puts it. Notes of bergamot, she says, that she embarked on ‘Anya Sicilian lemons and Tunisian orange Hindmarch Smells’ (even the name flowers have a breeze note of sea is tongue-in-cheek), ‘holding hands air drifting through, with vanilla and with one of the best perfumers in the musk – described as ‘all regrettable business, Lyn Harris,’ Anya adds. tan lines and ice cream drips’! One of the UK’s most exciting Coffee captures roasted Italian and accomplished perfumers, Lyn coffee, being prepared in a small continues to collaborate on bespoke cappuccino bar in Italy, expressed projects alongside her own Perfumer (or perhaps espresso-ed?) via ‘café H fragrance venture (launched in absolute, fused with cardamom, 2016, after more than 20 years at elemi, cedarwood, tonka and a hint

42 The scented Letter My obsession has always “been with the combination of playfulness, irreverence, with the critical ingredient of craftsmanship Anya Hindma”rch

Anya Smells candles are priced £50 (175g) and £150 (700g) at Anya Hindmarch flagships stores, selected retailers and on-line at anyahindmarch.com

The scented Letter 43 first whiffs latest launches We’re witnessing the OUR LATEST LAUNCHES BOX oudh trend ebb away, The very best way to try a new scent is ● TORY BURCH BEL AZUR with sandalwood taking to sample it on your skin, allow it to develop – and then make up your ● philosophy amazing its place – and roses are mind. So we’re delighted to say that grace ballet rose everywhere. Read on, to quite a few of the launches on on the ● shay & blue black tulip next few pages feature in our Spring ● kenzo world keep your finger on the 2018 Discovery Box, for you to try at ● pulse-point of everything home. Find it at perfumesociety.org/ aerin hibiscus palm SHOP, price £19 (£15 to VIPs). It ● Lalique NOIR PREMIER that’s new in perfume includes, among other fragrances... ILLUSION CAPTIVE ✶new

THE FRAGRANCE FAMILIES As scentophiles know, fragrances fall into different ‘families’. So we’ve used the same classification system for launches as on our perfumesociety.org website. Just look for the coloured strip above the name of the perfume, which is your visual clue to the families. These are listed below. Most of us are drawn to a specific family/families: once you know which you fall into, that colour can act as a cue – and help you take a short-cut to the ones you may want to try first.

ORIENTAL

FLORIENTAL

CHYPRE WOODY

FLORAL

GOURMAND

FRESH FOUGERE

44 The scented Letter ACCESSORISE ANGELA FLANDERS BRITNEY SPEARS Happy Daisy Lawn Sunset Fantasy

Accessorize specialise in fashion- Doubly inspired by her mother’s love Sunset Fantasy smells rather as you forward accessories at affordable of fabrics (Angela Flanders was a might imagine the pop princess prices – and what is fragrance, if not costume designer before opening the herself: sweet and a little fruity. All the ultimate accessory…? Joining their eponymous Columbia Road shop), holidays and carefree summer fun, it debut fragrance, Love Lily, this is at and a reflective poem written by family starts off juicy, dripping with pink first fruity with raspberry and orange friend/journalist Vicci Bentley, Lawn grapefruit and succulent Pink Lady before a gust of green sweeps in, marks the first fragrance from apple. The heart mixes peach with bringing with it elements of violet, Flanders’ daughter, Kate. Dewy raspberry leaves and orange blossom, pepper, jasmine and cyclamen. galbanum melts like morning mist to conjuring up the sweet honeyed Gourmand vanilla and caramel add a reveal pepper-speckled jasmine, blossoms of balmy evenings on distant good-enough-to-eat sweetness to translucent tuberose and lemon balm, shores, while the base leaves creamy orris and sandalwood resulting in pure before earthy patchouli grounds the remnants of sandalwood, a milky prettiness – at a very pretty price. base, beautifully. accord and vanilla on the skin. £19 for 75ml eau de toilette £65 for 50ml eau de toilette £21.50 for 30ml eau de toilette accessorize.com angelaflanders–perfumer.com boots.co.uk

BRUNO FAZZOLARI BULGARI BY TERRY Au Delà Narcisse La Gemme Reali Nylaia Soleil Piquant

Serious perfumistas will do a dance of Delving deep into the heart of the iris Light-filled, carefree, sun-drenched – joy on discovering that this San – the floral alter ego of the sapphire both the colour and vibe of the Francisco-based perfume house now gem, suggests perfumer Alberto fragrance itself – Terry de Gunzburg’s has an exclusive toehold in Europe, at Morillas – Nylaia truly explores this inspiration for Soleil Piquant was the Dulwich’s Roullier White perfumery. exquisite perfume ingredient. He Balearic island of Formentera. Initially Quintessentially spring-like, this classic captures the ‘deeply serene yet tactile ablaze with bright neroli, it unfolds to white-floral Chypre features a very rare warmth’ of the flower, blending it with reveal the soft floralcy of cactus flower extract of narcissus – perfectly evoking the warmth of benzoin, giving it an and almond blossoms, humming with a field of jonquils – alongside almost-honeyed, comforting addictive notes of tonka bean and oakmoss, labdanum, Egyptian jasmine sweetness. Ambergris and white sandalwood in the dry-down. Just in and French orange flower. Radiant, musks bestow a soft glaze over the time for that summer getaway, the elegant (and we’ve heard it likened to scent, downy and smooth. The chicest 100ml EDP comes packaged with a the original Je Reviens). kind of skin-scent, we’re finding it. security-friendly 8ml spray. £100 for 30ml eau de parfum £235 for 100ml eau de parfum £185 for 100ml eau de parfum + spray roullierwhite.com harrods.com At Selfridges

The scented Letter 45 CALVIN KLEIN CHANEL CHLOE Obsessed Intense for Women Coco Mademoiselle Intense Nomade

In an echo of the iconic original scent Trumpets, please! Coco Mademoiselle Gaby Aghion, Chloé founder, used to that set the fragrance world ablaze, reclaims its territory as a seductive say ‘my colours come from Egypt’, and memories of infatuation are ramped temptress, while remaining true to its the ideal Chloé woman cavorts across up by the additional snuggle of sophisticated heritage. Oliver Polge the continents with a boundless amber and a higher concentration of takes the clarity of fractionated energy that’s reflected in their sassy- pure oils in this composition. Expect patchouli, pushing it to the limit to yet-sophisticated fashion range. the twist of citrus seen through a harness the power without Quentin Bisch’s Nomade now evokes haze of powdered violet, with the relinquishing any of the freshness of Chloé’s vision of escape in fragrant herbaceous sage and lavender now bergamot and orange in the top form, summoning the succulent atop a plump bed of rich amber, notes. The passionate intensity of that ripeness of the mirabelle plum with labdanum and Muscenone (a base entwines itself around the sassy the fresh breeziness of freesia and the particularly lingering, naughty giggle fruitiness of rose and jasmine, grounding, mineralic whisper of of a musk). smouldering beguilingly. oakmoss for a vintage flair. £35 for 30ml eau de parfum £82 for 50ml eau de parfum intense £49 for 30ml eau de parfum boots.com chanel.com debenhams.com

CHOPARD DIOR DIPTYQUE Jasmin Moghol Poison Girl Unexpected Fleur de Peau

An exquisite collection of four new Dior’s in-house perfumer François Musk can be tricky, teetering fragrances based on dreams of Demachy recreates the sensation of an between the scent of a new baby Arabian ‘Paradise Gardens’ with acid drop, in scent form, playing with and the nape of your lovers’ neck, Alberto Morillas as the nose? We were the contrast between a fruity element but in Fleur de Peau, it is artfully in a frenzy of excitement and from first that’s at once sexy and sharp, and a crafted into a clean yet sexy, sniff, these were worth the wait. Here, ‘ginger tonic’ note that he subtly comforting scent. A sprinkle of Morillas evokes the drowsy warmth of heightened with a touch of salt. aldehydes and pink pepper give it a Jaipur sunset, the nocturnal Indian Jasmine sambac, Damascena rose and the twinkle in its eye, before and Chinese jasmine sighing lusciously peony also blossom at the heart, ambrette seed and rose swoop in. against a creamy tuberose, ravishing ultimately enveloping skin with tonka, Iris is slathered over the other Damascena rose, mystic Cypriol and a hint of vanilla, and smoochy musks accords, for an incredibly smooth soft-as-silk sandalwood, radiating like – and the shimmering holographic finish. We think this is the way our a blush, exuding sultriness. flacon is as daring as the juice. skin was meant to smell… £240 for 100ml eau de parfum £90 for 100ml eau de toilette £115 for 75ml eau de parfum harrods.com dior.com (from April) diptyqueparis.co.uk

46 The scented Letter DIPTYQUE DOLCE & GABBANA DOLCE & GABBANA Tempo The One Baroque Dolce Garden

Celebrating their 50th anniversary, This glorious collector’s bottle of the Isn’t this just the prettiest Dolce bottle Diptyque revisit the patchouli theme rich tapestry that is Dolce & Gabbana’s yet, with its pastel pink flower of the Swinging Sixties, but utterly famed The One eau de toilette is adornment and grosgrain bow? And refining and modernising that note. subtly patterned like damask (a that’s entirely matched by the scent Combining three different extractions favourite fabric of D&G). Inside, white itself, with floaty elements of juicy – each sourced from Givaudan’s petals of Madonna lily are dusted with mandarin, sunlit neroli and breezy sustainable supply chain on the island golden pollen, highlighted by Italian magnolia, together with an unusual of Sulawesi – the effect is a vibrational bergamot essence, honeyed broom, gourmand note of coconut essence thrum of delicious depth. Perfumer orange blossom and mandarin, accenting the smooth almond milk Olivier Pescheux weaves steamy violet rendered silky with white peach and accord. Sandalwood and vanilla leaves, damp earth and fern-strewn lychee, while vanilla, vetiver and musk absolute enfold exotic frangipani as forests with hot spices that resonate make themselves known in The One’s the warm Sicilian sun sets on this – at addictively. enduring, unmistakable sillage. once fresh, sweet and blooming lovely. £115 for 75ml eau de parfum £55 for 50ml eau de toilette £49 for 30ml eau de parfum spacenk.com boots.com theperfumeshop.com

ELIE SAAB FERRAGAMO FRAGONARD In White Amo Ferragamo Verveine

A swirling symphony of transparent Glamorous and feminine – like Amo Each year, Fragonard place a single layers, think of this as an homage to Ferragamo’s ‘face’, Suki Waterman, ingredient in the spotlight; for 2018, the Elie Saab original, with the lighting and its rose and silver ‘prism’ bottle – it’s the turn of verbena, the pure scent levels turned up. Bright sunshine this explodes with blackcurrant, of summer sunshine and sparkling illuminates dazzling orange blossom rosemary and an Italian Bitter Accord water. Lemon and grapefruit accent atop piquant berries and radiant (basically the scent equivalent of verbena’s energy, before the white jasmine as we twirl ever onwards to the Campari!), giving way to airy jasmine floral ylang ylang and jasmine start to gloriously sparkling white musk and sambac contrasted with maté absolute bloom, in the heart. The base grounds soft amber that’s become something and rhubarb, before tenderly drying and adds staying power via patchouli, of a signature for the house. We down to soft Tahitian white vanilla amber and Atlas cedarwood. (We are imagine a catwalk full of bridal gowns, absolute, sandalwood and Ambrox. ‘I so delighted to feature this – with shimmering with texture, reflecting the love Ferragamo’, this name translates gorgeous matching soap – in our Treat light as they move. as – and it’s hard not to, frankly. Yourself Discovery Box.) £41 for 30ml eau de parfum £45 for 30ml eau de parfum £18 for 50ml eau de toilette debenhams.com thefragranceshop.co.uk marksandspencer.com

The scented Letter 47 FRÉDÉRIC MALLE GOUTAL PARIS GUCCI Music For A While Bois d’Hadrien Bloom Acqua di Fiore

We were astonished to discover that Goutal Paris is the ‘reinvention’ of the Alberto Morillas continues his gentlemanly perfumer Carlos Benaïm perfume house founded by Annick collaboration with Gucci’s Alessandro is celebrating his 50th anniversary at Goutal, the flame of which is now Michele with a fresh, light green fragrance house IFF – because this carried forward by her daughter bouquet to sit alongside the original proves he’s still absolutely at the top Camille. With a striking new identity, Bloom. As green as new spring of his game. Utterly transfixing, Music this also marks a new spin on the foliage, its watery accord of galbanum for a While delivers on its promise ‘to iconic Eau d’Hadrien. And if that and spicy cassis buds segues into a lift us up like an eternal melody’ – a creation is a bright Italian morning, heart of jasmine, tuberose and a crescendo of wonderfully contrasting Bois d’Hadrien – also bottled for men new-to-us note of ‘Rangoon creeper’ notes that include lavender laced with (see p.56) and (here) for women – – a ‘floral waterfall’, as Gucci put it – patchouli, amber, vanilla and musk, celebrates the opposite end of the atop a base of sandalwood and musk, with ethyl maltol and pineapple day, capturing the soul-soothing as warming as a cashmere throw on a delivering gourmand moreishness. warmth of a Tuscan sunset. cool spring evening. From £132 for 50ml eau de parfum £91 for 100ml eau de parfum From £62 for 50ml eau de toilette fredericmalle.com At Harrods houseoffraser.co.uk

GUERLAIN GUERLAIN INITIO PARFUMS Baiser de Russie Mon Guerlain Eau Florale Rehab

Thierry Wasser conveys us to Moscow Delphine Jelk, co-creator with Thierry From Initio’s new Hedonist Collection, for a musky-floral addition to the Les Wasser of this spin on Guerlain’s 2017 Rehab promises to return you to Parisiennes line-up, bottling that city’s blockbuster, explains: ‘We wanted to ecstatic perfume pleasure. A Bourbon aromas in the much-loved Guerlain focus on the floral aspect and have note in the top mingles with a spiky ‘bee bottle’. Bergamot touches fashioned it like a bouquet of white black pepper, the sweet heart of conjure up the scent of Russian tea, flowers, heightening the sambac coumarin blending with dry tobacco vanilla and candied cranberries evoke jasmine which is an integral part of before melting away to a medley of traditional pastries, fresh and subtle Mon Guerlain’s identity.’ The necklet cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli, wafts of pine needles take us to the on the signature quadrilobé bottle is vanilla, amber and musks. It’s a combo surrounding forests – and the daring reimagined in rose gold and for us, that ends up smelling soft and flourish of absinthe was chosen as a this is spring come early. It’s pretty, definitely addictive, offering a nod to cafés where Muscovites gather pretty, pretty – and as deliciously reassuring comfort you want to return for warmth and conviviality. feminine as fragrance ever gets. to time and again. £190 for 125ml eau de parfum From £48 for 30ml eau de parfum £95 for 90ml eau de parfum At Harrods escentual.com selfridges.com

48 The scented Letter JEAN PAUL GAULTIER JO MALONE LONDON KENZO Classique Eau Fraîche Jasmine Sambac & Marigold Kenzo World

All aboard for this collab with graffiti- My, Jo Malone London have been Francis Kurkdjian and Maïa Lernout inspired Parisian artist André Saraïva, busy lately. In addition to the English collaborated on this interpretation of with limited edition bottles acquiring Fields quintet you can read about on a fragrance whose launch ad famously the identity of his subversively cute p.38, the perfume house transports us went viral. And, like that commercial, ‘Mr. & Mrs. A’ characters. Pink stripes with this to India, where the flowers this is ‘for a woman who does not take and smiling, cartoonish faces adorn chosen for this Cologne Intense are herself too seriously.’ Flirting with the curves of Classique, the fresh woven into the country’s culture. fruits and flowers, it bears the breeze of the Bahamas beckoning with Setting out to capture the vibrancy of signature of Mr. Kurkdjian – peerless an addition of sugarcane juice in the an Indian flower market, Mathilde at bringing lightness and brightness ginger and lemon sorbet mix. Tiaré Bijaoui’s creation garlands jasmine to a creation – fusing pear, peony, flower, orange blossoms and jasmine sambac with equally exotic ylang almond blossom and orris. ‘For a tea overflow from the heart to a ylang, accented by fruity, aromatic joyful and mischievous woman,’ it labdanum, vanilla and musk base. touches of marigold. promises – and we aspire to that. £77.50 for 100ml eau de toilette From £75 for 50ml Cologne Intense From £38 for 30ml eau de toilette theperfumeshop.com jomalone.com (from 1st April) johnlewis.com

KILIAN LA MAISON HÉDONIQUE LALIQUE Love The Way You Taste Samedi à Paris Mon Premier Cristal Hirondelles Jasmine

Inspired by the vibrant city of Miami, Who doesn’t occasionally think An anniversary edition to celebrate LTWYT is an ode to that delectable, wistfully of a Saturday in Paris…? La Lalique’s impressive 130 years, the new summery cocktail, the Mojito. Maison Hédonique is the creation of Mon Premier Cristal Hirondelles is a Housed in a flacon slathered with half-French Lucy Atkinson, a quartet of sight to behold, with the iconic strokes of vibrant green paint, it’s a fragrances (so far) which deliver French swallows accented with 23-carat gold. nod to the city’s electric energy; perfumery magic – here, via a ‘crisp The scent within is an ode to jasmine, effervescent lemon and refreshing white shirt’ of a scent. The morning blending three varieties harvested in peppermint tingle at the top of this starts sunny: Mentha citrata, mandarin, places where swallows migrate for scent, while the heart reveals lush bergamot. As the day warms, cotton winter – from Provence to Egypt and green leaves and magnolia. A and soft woods stroll in – and it India – alongside another trio of white summertime tonic – sparkling water finishes with the irresistible whiff of flowers. Like being wrapped in a and vetiver – lingers as twilight hours coffee, alongside summery hay and blanket of jasmine flowers, it’s creep in at the hotel bar. glowing amber. Très belle. impossible not to revel in this one. £185 for 50ml eau de parfum £125 for 50ml eau de parfum £910 for 80ml absolu de parfum bykilian.com roullierwhite.com lalique.com

The scented Letter 49 L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR L.K. BENNETT Champ de Baies Champ des Fleurs Signature

Two dazzling new Colognes are Is there a vision more lovely than a The first fragrance from what has fast making a splash at L’Artisan Parfumeur. field of flowers? If so, we’d like to know became one of Kate Middleton’s Champ de Baies sets out to capture what it is. Another ravishing new favourite British fashion houses is a ‘the aerial footprint of a mulberry tree Cologne from what was one of the balmy Chypre, dazzling with peppered in early morning, just before a original ‘niche’ perfume houses, citrus and the on-trend note of tangy heatwave’ via a tangle of wild beautifully reinvented for today, this rhubarb. Smooth-as-silk rose blends brambles and raspberries, and the white bouquet gives an impression of seamlessly with well-tempered jasmine sorbet-like freshness of nashi pear, being utterly dew-drenched. Bitter and ylang ylang, drying down to the with rose rhubarb and bergamot bark grapefruit and juicy pear are overtaken shimmering warmth of woods and in the heart. Jasmine, white musks, as lily of the valley and jasmine petals powdery amber. Accomplished and amber and patchouli deliver staying unfold in the heart, with white cedar, supremely wearable in all seasons, we power and an elegant sillage not often musk and amber finally enveloping also love the fact the elegant bottle’s experienced with Colognes. skin in their sweetness. available in a choice of three sizes. £105 for 100ml eau de Cologne £105 for 100ml eau de Cologne £35 for 30ml eau de toilette lartisanparfumeur.com (from April) lartisanparfumeur.com (from April) lkbennett.com

L’OCCITANE LANCÔME MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN Terre de Lumière L’Eau La Nuit Trésor à La Folie Oud Extrait de Parfum

Calice Becker streams yet more We’re loving a phrase we just Francis’s Kurkdjian’s love affair with sunlight through the original Terre de learned from Lancôme: ‘lâcher prise’, oudh continues, expressed visa this Lumière, introducing armfuls of meaning when time is suspended… richly intense extrait de parfum peonies to this limited edition, This latest addition to the Trésor concentration ‘born of sand, wind and graceful floral. L’Occitane describe it family sets out to achieve that with gold’. Oriental/woody/spicy in as ‘the scent of daybreak, when the an addictive ‘love elixir’, its heart character, in Francis’s hands the sun’s rays emerge gently over the a-bloom with a deep red rose note. oudh-iness is tempered by a horizon’, with pink pepper and Unusually, vanilla features in the gourmand vanilla note, alongside bergamot to remind us of the crystal- fragrance’s debut, while woodsy ambretolide (fruity, musky and with fresh dawn air, before those peonies patchouli thrums in the dry-down. pear accents), together with saffron, unfurl their blossoms. Bitter almond For the legions of La Nuit Trésor patchouli and elemi. One for after- essence, white musk and tonka tether devotees, we’re predicting that this dark – in our dreams, while glamping this ethereal scent on the skin. too will prove a love thing. in an exotic desert somewhere. £65 for 50ml eau de toilette From £51 for 50ml eau de toilette £275 for 70ml extrait de parfum uk.loccitane.com theperfumeshop.com lessenteurs.com

50 The scented Letter MARKS & SPENCER MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN MICHAEL KORS Oud Silk Mood AUTOGRAPH Exotic Blossom Eau de Parfum Sheer Radiance

Does anyone do oudh for Western Last year’s Radiance launch from M&S We are – hallelujah! – moving into the sensibilities better than Francis Beauty was, we’re told, quite the season of fragrances composed Kurkdjian? Probably not. Here, he fragrant success story for the high specfically to waft us to carefree days, offers us a masterful paring down from street name. Sheer Radiance looks set sultry nights and distant shores. In the the original Oud Silk Mood, in eau de to build on that with a breezy, vanguard of the new season’s scents parfum concentration. Can silk get any sophisticated ‘sister scent’. If Sheer which set out to do just that is Michael smoother? Somehow this manages to Radiance was a fabric (something we Kors’s striking, tangerine-bottled be airy yet still voluptuous, the Laotian like to ponder on when smelling Exotic Blossom – an almost matchy- wood woven through with Bulgarian fragrances), it would be organza – a matchy orange cocktail of mango, roses, Italian bergamot, Indian papyrus blend of citrusy mandarin, gardenia tangerine, guava and peach pulp, and Moroccan blue chamomile, with a and pink peppercorn, accenting a enveloped in rose and peony, offering hit of hedoine for a hypnotic dance of transparent bouquet of flowers at once woods, musk and vanilla as the sun the seven veils. delicate, sweet and subtly fruity. sets on this tropical temptation. £195 for 70ml eau de parfum £22 for 75ml eau de parfum From £44 for 30ml selfridges.com marksandsencer.com theperfumeshop.com

MIZENSIR MORESQUE MUGLER Poudre d’Or Fiore di Portofino Alien Floral Futura

Poudre d’Or is the kind of beach The freshest yet in the Moresque Never has the mystical object that is blanket we want to snuggle up in. portfolio, ‘where haute perfumery the Alien bottle looked quite so Weaving an olfactory fairytale that meets Arabic art’, and tends towards striking, we think, as in this rose-tinted conjures up the glow of candles at bottled exoticism. This is sense- edition. The woody-floral inside is dusk and those golden hours of awakeningly lively, blending Portofino illuminated by an almost ethereal evening light in balmy climates, it’s all lemon, Sicilian orange and Italian ‘Buddha accord’, drawing the wearer lazy afternoons, warm tiaré flower- basil, blooming with mimosa, iris, in towards its floral harmony. This scented breezes drifting above, and a carnation and geranium leaves at the includes a new-to-us note from soft powderiness in the air. The last heart. Delivering long-lasting sillage, night-blooming cereus petals – a type trails of this fragrance leave a creamy, though, is the base of musk, Haitian of fragrant cactus, helping to maintain musky sandalwood whispering on the vetiver and plenty of sexy amber. Mugler’s reputation for innovation – skin; a luminous scent, a kind of We’re admiring its duality almost as alongside creamy notes of white golden veil. much as the artisan Tuscan flacon. amber and sandalwood. £165 for 100ml eau de parfum £295 for 50ml eau de parfum £42 for 30ml eau de toilette lessenteurs.com At Harrods johnlewis.com

The scented Letter 51 NINA RICCI NARCISO RODRIGUEZ Les Belles de Nina NINA RICCI Santal Musc Luna Monsters Les Belles de Nina Monsters

The oudh trend seems to be fading Olivier Cresp shows his playful side Here, Cresp has the utmost fun with somewhat, as sandalwood’s star soars with this pair of fragrances, the sweet-floral fusion of sparkling – and here, East meets West in a reworking previous creations for pear, blackcurrant leaves, balmy swoon of a scent composed by Nina Ricci (Luna and Nina) with a candyfloss, praline and peony. The perfumers Sonia Constant and duo that every young woman who’s juices is as flirtily fun as the bottles Caroline Sabas, with sandalwood strayed into our office has gone themselves – akin to toys for bolstered by a harmonious drift of simply (and appropriately) crazy for. grown-ups. ‘We all have a monster multi-dimensional amber accords that Luna Monsters is juicy with slumbering in us,’ declare Nina glow and sparkle intriguingly. Swathes pineapple and a squeeze of lime, Ricci. ‘What if we liberated it…?’ We of sheer Egyptian musk meld with while these fur-bobbled bottles by can’t think of a more joyfully quirky sap-laden resins; the perfumers illustrator duo Ana Strumpf and way than with these, set to put a wanted this to smell ‘shiny’ – and Guto Requena will bring a fresh smile on your lips every time you (weirdly, perhaps) we totally get that. audience to Les Belles de Nina. spritz your skin. £135 for 100ml eau de parfum From £50.50 for 50ml eau de toilette From £50.50 for 50ml eau de toilette harrods.com debenhams.com debenhams.com

PENHALIGON’S NEELA VERMEIRE PACO RABANNE Empressa Niral Lady Million Lucky

A Middle Eastern rose, with a Fans of Neela’s first six (and we count Oh, lucky, lucky One Million lovers. fruity-Chypre edge, Empressa ourselves among the many thousands) (Probably way more than a million out positively oozes opulence wherever will have their noses primed for this there.) You’ll be taking no chances she goes. The rich floral-fruity heart latest Bertrand Duchaufour creation. with this latest to join Paco Rabanne’s combines peach, cassis and An homage in scent to the intricacies blockbuster line-up, a sherbet-y rose dewberry, but is anything but cloying of Indian raw silk, angelica and (as opposed to Lady Million’s original – rather, adding a subtle sweetness to champagne sparkle as though white flower heart) sitting alongside the scent. This, bolstered up by a embroidered with gold. Iris, tea and juicy raspberries, then wrapped in bounty of deep ingredients in the rose shimmer beguilingly as magnolia sandalwood. As ever, the bottle is a base – sensual swirls of cocoa, amber, adds a creaminess to the depth of showstopper, like a diamond, with the patchouli and frankincense – makes cedar, sandalwood and leather. golden juice twinkling through the for a dark, pillow-y base you could Ravishingly bohemian, we plan to facets. We say: place your bets, happily fall into. dress accordingly. please, on another hit. £168 for 100ml eau de parfum £205 for 60ml eau de parfum From £46.50 for 30ml eau de parfum penhaligons.com At Jovoy Mayfair theperfumeshop.com

52 The scented Letter PHILOSOPHY PRADA PROENZA SCHOULER Pure Grace Ballet Rose La Femme L’Eau Arizona

Everything is coming up roses this Trembling blossoms dancing in the An exciting perfumer collaboration for season, with that floral note having its breeze, this gorgeously gamine the American fashion brand’s first fusty-dustiness blown away by utterly version of La Femme has been fragrant foray, with Carlos Benaïm and contemporary rosy launches. Case in heightened with an extra crush of Loc Dong bringing their combined point: Pure Grace appears in two new dew-drenched delicacy. Green talent to this solar creation, capturing interpretations. Here, a fresh rose frangipani flower smells crunchily the rare scent of desert Torch Cactus pirouettes alongside peony, lychee, crisp, its freshness enriched by via Living FlowerTM technology, placing pink musk and woods. Equally graceful lusciously juicy mandarin essence and it alongside orris for a second-skin is its ‘sister’ scent, Amazing Grace smoothed to a glossy sheen by ylang effect that’s enhanced by creamy Nude Rose, dewy with green notes, ylang. Tuberose may seem surprising woods, musks and cashmeran. Its bright with neroli and orange flower, amid such tenderness, but it’s had the presentation is equally stunning, the cocooned in the warmth of sun-kissed volume turned way down to a gentle sculptured flacon created via a musks and cedarwood. murmur that soothes the soul. revolutionary glass technology. £33 for 50ml eau de toilette £45.50 for 35ml eau de parfum £68 for 50ml eau de parfum johnlewis.com johnlewis.com selfridges.com

PARFUMS QUARTANA SHAY & BLUE SHISEIDO Midnight Datura Black Tulip Everbloom Sakura Art Edition

Joseph Quartana created ‘Les Potions Plum is smothered here in ‘Giving the ephemeral its eternity’ is Fatales’ for the modern-day femme sumptuously smooth white chocolate the bold inspiration behind this fatale – beckoning us over to the dark for a surprisingly gourmand twist. homage to the transitory nature of the side with fragrances inspired by plants Before gourmand-avoiders shuffle sakura – a frothy pink confection of a associated with poison, witchcraft and away, though, be reassured it’s not flower with a frustratingly short even murder, including Hemlock, overtly sweet – think of it more like the lifespan, its ethereal beauty now Digitalis, Mandrake and (here) narcotic ‘mouth-feel’ of creaminess amidst bottled, forever. Built around two datura. Also known as ‘moonflower’, swathes of snowdrops and cyclamen accords with a minimalism that echoes renowned for having aphrodisiac leading to the intriguingly deep, dark a haiku poem, green cyclamen and qualities, its white floral luminosity is heart of black tulip itself. Soft wood black cherry glisten amidst a flurry of showcased in this opulent, super-floral shavings and those curls of chocolate blossoms (orange and cherry) and blend with jasmine, tuberose and fall like snowflakes, quietly enriching tenderly scented rose petals that muguet, all tipsy on boozy rum. the composition. gently flutter to a bed of musk. £130 for 50ml eau de parfum £55 for 100ml eau de parfum £44 for 30ml eau de parfum roullierwhite.com shayandblue.com houseoffraser.co.uk

The scented Letter 53 TOM FORD PRIVATE BLEND TORY BURCH VERSACE Eau de Soleil Blanc Bel Azur Dylan Blue

Sunglasses, beach bags, SPF to the We’d really quite like to redecorate A tribute to modern femininity, ready: Tom Ford’s spin on Soleil Blanc our entire house to match the striking Versace’s latest scent walks the line is unquestionably summer-in-a-bottle, packaging of Tory Burch’s French between strength and sensuality. The heralding long days on the beach with Riviera-inspired fragrance, designed to sharp tang of blackcurrant sorbet cuts its floral-amber warmth. Fresh citrus, reflect her love of the sea with its blue through a fruity Granny Smith apple pink peppercorn and cardamom ombré flacon and classic, blue-and- note, while icy peaches drip onto a brighten Soleil Blanc’s distinctive white patterned box. What’s inside is bouquet of rose petals and imaginary pistachio opening, while Moroccan equally summery, a refreshing wave of wild blossoms. Dylan Blue sits in an orange flower, jasmine, tuberose and bergamot breaking over sun-drenched unapologetically flamboyant flacon, ylang ylang light up the heart. As the neroli and peony, their breeziness dazzling with gold and emblazoned skin warms, amber, vanilla and a fading into warm, sun-kissed notes of with the iconic Medusa head. The kind luscious coco de mer accord emerge. deliciously creamy sandalwood, finally of good-to-be-bad bottle we love and Warm, sultry, dangerously addictive. tethered by earthy vetiver. expect from the Italian fashion house. £82 for 50ml eau de parfum £73 for 50ml eau de parfum £52 for 30ml eau de parfum houseoffraser.co.uk houseoffraser.co.uk thefragranceshop.com

VIKTOR & ROLF VILHELM PARFUMERIE VINCE CAMUTO Flowerbomb Nectar Poets of Berlin Ciao

A new addition to the Flowerbomb David Bowie fans, you’ll want to know Ciao evokes the kind of girl who arsenal, the heart is filled with an about this – named for the musician’s sparkles with vivacity; romantic and intriguing flower liqueur as a zesty years in Berlin, ‘a metaphorical ode to flirtatious but most importantly, fun. twist of bergamot oil flows to the genius that played beneath Tangy mandarin and sharp pink blackcurrant syrup garlanded by swags Bowie’s flamboyant armour’. Perfume- grapefruit are sweetened by wild of jasmine, entwined with orange lovers, you’ll be more interested in strawberries and juicy blackberries, a flowers and the peachy delights of what’s inside the signature Vilhelm nod to her cheeky side, while the heart osmanthus. The luxuriance has been bottle (designed, of course, by Pierre of pretty petals – rose, peony, muguet further enriched by the addition of an Dinand), which melds blueberry and and jasmine – reveals a sweet nature. addictive gourmand accord – warm lemon with the woodsiness of vetiver, A glowing amber accord appears later spices melting into the base of tonka sandalwood, green bamboo, and then on, with swirls of syrupy vanilla, and an bean and creamy vanilla. Pull back the softens the whole caboodle with a earthy, chocolate-y patchouli pin and enjoy the explosion. wraparound of vanilla. peppered through it. £58 for 30ml eau de parfum £155 for 100ml eau de parfum £60 for 100ml eau de parfum debenhams.com libertylondon.com debenhams.com

54 The scented Letter the men’s room

ABERCOMBIE & FITCH BENTLEY CALVIN KLEIN First Instinct Extreme Momentum Unlimited Obsessed Intense for Men

A rush of black pepper tingles the The venerable Michel Almairac brings The original Obsession advertising senses as First Instinct Extreme takes his talents to this encounter between campaign by Mario Sorrenti (featuring hold. Warm cardamom is shrouded bright fruits and polished leather. Mario’s then-girlfriend, Kate Moss) has in spicy pepper and saffron in the Taking Momentum from 0-60mph is a been revisited and reworked for heart – but it’s the base that really rush of bergamot, grapefruit and Obsessed. And just as his original steals the show here, with cashmere apple, further brightened by cardamom. Polaroids have been intensified to woods and an amber accord Accelerating towards its cruising speed, match the new black, lacquered cocooning Extreme in their dark, the notes reveal the signature Bentley bottles, so the juice itself has a addictive allure. Ultimately, it’s the accord – evoking the luxurious interior distinctly darker feel. A vanilla infusion skin-like, comforting trail – sprinkled via cedarwood, vetiver, sandalwood, with fruity top notes is pulled to a with coconut water – that makes this leather, Ambroxan and Muscenone. In crackle of cedar leaves, cashmeran addition to the A&F portfolio so its striking, embossed silver and blue and cypriol smudged with black amber, darned irresistible, though. flask, this positively purrs. guaiac wood and gurjum balsam. £46 for 50ml eau de parfum £59 for 100ml eau de toilette £33 for 30ml eau de parfum theperfumeshop.com feelunique.com boots.com

CARTIER CHOPARD dior Déclaration Orange Mauresque Sauvage Eau de Parfum

The Déclaration line-up acquires a A sophisticated stroll through a Where ‘scorching air meets fresh contemporary new look for spring Moorish garden’s sun-drenched desert night,’ the hefty bottle for the 2018, with a new, intense way to enjoy orange flowers, perfumer Alberto eau de parfum concentration of Dior’s the iconic fragrance. (A great Morillas has created an enclave of so-successful Sauvage hints at the introduction to the line, if you don’t crisp citrus fruits with precious neroli ‘twilight’ vibe of the juice itself, its already know it). Expect your senses to (surely the scent of joyfulness, distilled) deep blue glass tinged with sunset be warmed by spices, leathers and to soar the spirits skyward. An amber tones. Inside, François Demachy offers resins, in a perfectly-poised (as ever) base glows with a comforting snuggle a ‘sensually fresh’ composition, construction by in-house perfumer of Siam benzoin and the sweet juxtaposing lively Calabrian bergamot, Mathilde Laurent. Bergamot’s woodiness of copaiba balm. There are pink peppercorns and Sichuan pepper luminosity gives way to orange and three further fragrance ‘Gardens of with star anise, nutmeg, Ambroxan, cardamom in the heart, elegantly Paradise’ in this new collection, each cistus labdanum, leather, vetiver and a tethered by cedarwood in the base. equally delightful to lose yourself in. surprisingly green vanilla extraction. From £73 for 50ml parfum £240 for 100ml eau de parfum £62 for 60ml eau de parfum johnlewis.com harrods.com dior.com

The scented Letter 55 DOLCE & GABBANA ELEGANTES EX NIHILO The One Baroque Edition Oud Exquisite Night Call

All dressed up for night-time are two One for serious oudh aficionados, Also landed in Harrods Salon de new editions of The One (see p.47 from ultra-luxurious perfume house Parfums, this is part of a collection of for the women’s offering), in a livery Elegantes, now to be found at Harrods Oriental fragrances ‘seen from an that is a nod to the damask fabric Salon de Parfums. Intense, swirling edgy Parisian point of view’. East which is all but woven into the with smokiness and dark intrigue, this collides with West in an Oriental-spicy fashion brand’s DNA. This elegantly is an exotic encounter with animalic mélange, ambrette and a delicious masculine woody-Oriental struts its Oriental leather, cistus, resinous gurjun and innovative note of toasted sesame stuff with notes of grapefruit, basil, balsam, castoreum, amyris, Indonesian mellowing to a heart of beeswax, coriander, cardamom, orange patchouli and plenty of natural oudh. gingerbread and patchouli. Last, we blossom, cedarwood, amber, cedar Elegantes’ priciest flacons take the encounter elements of benzoin resin and tobacco. Same classic eau de form of towering crystal decanters – and tonka bean, which make for a toilette, but with an eye-catching but we love the hand-blown, inky blue daring and addictive sillage. (Definitely (and collectible) new look. glass of this pleasing objet. shareable, this one, too.) £52 for 50ml eau de toilette £2,625 for 200ml eau de parfum £495 for 100ml eau de parfum boots.com harrods.com harrods.com

FLORIS GOUTAL PARIS JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Islay Bois D’Hadrien Le Male Eau Fraiche

Inspired by a whisky-distilling Scottish Eau d’Hadrien put Annick Goutal on Dressed like a sailor who definitely island of the same name, Islay is a the map – and this much-loved icon knows all the coolest bars – in a strong, peaty limited edition fragrance hasn’t been touched, since. But now, graffiti-inspired stripy design by that softens to an incredibly moreish, Camille Goutal (Annick Goutal’s Parisian street artist, André Saraïva – wearable blend of woods with floral daughter) brings us a new, unisex collectors and fragrance fans alike will subtleties. The top – like opening the interpretation. Interestingly, it’s be adding this to their stash. Gaultier whisky bottle for a first potent sniff – is packaged differently for men (seen describe the scent as ‘a sexy fabric dry and boozy. Cade oil and patchouli here) and women (taller and more softener’, and we’re pretty sure you’ll deliver that signature peatiness in the slender), but whatever your gender, want to snuggle up to the neroli and heart, but once their strength melts it’s easy to be seduced. At first citrusy the comfortingly clean minty breeze of away, we encounter the delicate with Tuscan fruits, it offers the fresh air – not to mention the sage, sweetness of vanilla, with an orris note briskness of Siberian pine, mellowing sandalwood and moreish vanilla/tonka that buffs the whole fragrance. to heavenly sun-warmed woods. which throb in the base. £180 for 100ml eau de parfum £108 for 100ml eau de parfum £60 for 125ml eau de toilette florislondon.com At Harrods theperfumeshop.com

56 The scented Letter LALIQUE MONTBLANC PACO RABANNE L’Insoumis Ma Force Legend Night 1 Million Lucky

Clean-cut and invigorating, L’Insoumis Those of you acquainted with the In 2008, at the height of the financial Ma Force kicks off with a fruity apple original Montblanc Legend will crisis, Paco Rabanne scandalously note cut through with bright spikes of recognise some of its DNA here – that released 1 Million in the form of a gold lemon, leading to an explosion of same fresh bite of bergamot at the bar. A cult success, a whopping 60 cardamom, with aromatic drifts of top, the same aromatic lavender. But million of the gold ingots were lavender surrounding a soft, green this time, it delves into deeper and produced, and now a fresh generation violet leaf. To us, this is like the force darker territory. Moreish black vanilla is being lured by the charms of a of a wind – cool and uplifting but with and musks mingle to create a slightly platinum hue. Juicy green plums a strong, asserting presence. It’s sweet, soft scent that whispers ‘come surround surprisingly delectable presented in a sleek frosted flacon closer’, while undertones of vetiver, hazelnuts with overtly woody with intricate glass details – because of patchouli and Akigalawood promise overtones, a blend of contemporary course Lalique famously excel at magnetic woodiness. A scent to nuzzle masculinity that urges: take the chance bottles, as well as fragrances. into, on any dark night. and live your dreams. £84 for 100ml eau de toilette £32 for 30ml eau de parfum £48.50 for 50ml eau de toilette lalique.com theperfumeshop.com theperfumeshop.com

PRADA TOMMY HILFIGER Widian L’Homme L’Eau Tommy Weekend Getaway London

The warming tingle of amber swirls The beloved Tommy and Tommy Girl ‘Widian’ is a romantic Arabic word through the cool powder of iris and traditionally always get a new outfit for which translates as ‘wind from the violet, flecked with red ginger and summer. This season, it’s an up-up- desert’. But don’t run away with the brightened like sudden sunshine by and-away livery, complete with a idea that this is a perfume house the appearance of happy-making nostalgic Airmail-inspired cap and purely for lovers of powerful oudhs; we neroli. L’Eau’s floral elements remind postmark label. The scents are find plenty to delight our noses here, us of the most beautiful note from a freshened up, too – Tommy Girl via including this latest, London. Yes, violin being held just that bit longer, to vanilla, granadilla fruit and tiaré, with there is oudh. But it’s used with the tug at your heartstrings. Calming the men’s offering becoming even deftest of touches, alongside sweet shadows of cedar mingle with the fresher, thanks to aromatic clary sage, floral elements of violet, lily of the soul-grounding smoothness of a grind of fresh white pepper, valley and raspberry, delivering sandalwood for a translucent woody bergamot and vetiver, all bathed in leather, amber and vanilla in the trail you’ll love to follow. sandalwood’s warmth. alluring and complex dry-down. £51.50 for 50ml eau de toilette £50 for 100ml eau de toilette £215 for 50ml eau de parfum johnlewis.com theperfumeshop.com harveynichols.com

The scented Letter 57 it takes me right back

There is a scent that set off on adventures by making transports me to another time and it ‘land’ somewhere else in the place, another life almost. So it’s house or garden. not entirely surprising that it’s the Years later, the TARDIS tent smell of a time machine. covering – which narrowly escaped “Not just any time machine, being turned into an outfit to wear either. It’s the smell of the clubbing in the 90s – was dragged TARDIS. Well, if we’re going to be out of retirement. With the poles geeky about it, it’s the smell of a long missing, a new wooden particular TARDIS. Because even frame was built. Obviously with though that’s the name of the ship me now being in my 30s, I wasn’t in Doctor Who, there’s actually able to sleep inside it. But it was more than one. My TARDIS – reassuring to see it – and smell it because I was lucky enough to – sat in the corner of whatever flat own one – was a present from I was living in. And then one day, my Nana. It was the early 1980s when there wasn’t enough space and the BBC science fiction in the flat, it sat in the garden. programme was yet to wane in Braving the elements, covered popularity, before languishing in snow and gathering dirt, it off-air for 16 years. I was, it’s fair to eventually had to be dismantled, say, a huge fan. For some reason the wooden frame destroyed I had taken to decorating a very and discarded. When the cover large, very heavy wooden storage resurfaced years later, following a unit as a Police Box (the shape the The Tardis spate in storage, it was in a sorry Doctor’s TARDIS has been stuck in We often think of scent as a state and would definitely require since the cult series debuted time machine – but for editor a lot of cleaning if it was ever in 1963). going to fly again. Perhaps my Nana thought and writer Darren Scott, his Instead, it was relegated to the it odd that her first grandchild ‘touchstone’ smell is exactly balcony of yet another new home, was lugging a cupboard, with waiting for the time when it would paper stuck all over it, round the that (sort of...) get the attention it required. garden, for I was soon presented Sadly that day never came; one with a TARDIS play tent, made by day it simply wasn’t on the balcony Dekker Toys. The framework was flat-packed, with poles that any more. This particular TARDIS – after nearly 30 years connected together, and the main covering slipped over the – was off on new journey that I wasn’t to be part of. It’s a top. (These play tents were quite common in the 1980s, with common experience for TARDIS travellers, I’m sure. But many popular franchises such as He-Man, Transformers and there were certain things that would take me back to that The A-Team having something similar.) all-familiar smelling place. The smell of my TARDIS will never leave me. The As I grew up and Halloween masks evolved from covering was made of PVC – and once you stepped inside brittle thin plastic offerings on elastic that would easily crack those flapping plastic doors the scent was powerful, into full PVC monstrosities, I would be reminded to say the least. Its sharp, fake, processed of that smell. People might see me wearing (and in fact almost unpleasant) smell was a mask and think I was larking around. But immediately stamped on my brain, to be actually, I was being transported to another forever associated with such happy times time and place. I’ll still inhale deeply and places. and remember my childhood so fondly Housed in my new blue plastic home whenever Halloween rolls around. - even the ‘scanner’ window above the And while it may not be exactly printed control console inside had a the same one, and it may be missing blue sheen – I would read and even those oh-so-distinctive gerbil teeth sleep on a giant square yellow cushion marks from when it got too close to their that fitted perfectly inside. I would lift the cage, I know there’s another TARDIS out whole thing up above me by the frame, there with my name on it. It’s all make that familiar ‘vworp-vworp’ noise and just a matter of time. “ Once you stepped inside those flapping plastic doors ” the scent was powerful, to say the least”

58 The scented Letter NEW

NEW LUXURY BODY WASHES BY

YARDLEYLONDON.CO.UK

YardleyLondonUK

YardleyLondonUK

YardleyLondonUK

MADE IN GREAT BRITAIN