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Issue No. 261 Friday, October 26 - Thursday, November 8, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS

A DISMISSAL “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: TOO FAR IN party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday.

SERBIAN ARTS AND page 10 CULTURE hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials

Serbia’s arts and culture scene is up in Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W arms over the firing of Zeljko Hubac June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, from the National Theatre, seeing an intolerance of dissent spread from politics page 5 to culture. conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party E Friday • June 13 2008 THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Milan RADONJIC

he ink had barely dried consternation among many of those on Zeljko Hubac’s inter- working in the field. They say critical view with Serbia’s es- voices are being silenced and the politi- tablishment daily Poli- cally like-minded promoted by those in tika before he received power. his marching orders as “This particular case just topped up Tdirector of the Drama ensemble of the the cup of discontent,” said Dusanka National Theatre. Stojanovic-Glid, a leading actress at the Theatre head Dejan Savic cited a de- National Theatre and one of a number sire to change artistic direction, but Hu- of theatre workers who have begun bac – and many of those who worked protesting against Hubac’s dismissal. for him – say he paid the price of speak- “It has been preceded by years of op- ing out about how the theatre’s meagre pression in our theatre, which in abso- resources are being spent. lute terms reflects the climate we have His departure is the latest in a series in Serbia as a country.” of personnel changes in Serbia’s art and culture scene that have caused Continued on page 2

Belgrade’s National Theatre, which is celebrating its 150th anniversary, was thrown into turmoil Photo: Srdjan Garcevic after the dismissal of Zeljko Hubac, who headed its Drama ensemble.

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 3 SERBIA SERBIA AND REGION Continued from page 1 Balkan States Mull Halting A Dismissal Too Far in Serbian Arms Sales to Saudis Arts and Culture Montenegro and Croatia are considering whether to follow Germany’s lead and suspend arms exports to Saudi Arabia over the killing of Jamal Khashoggi, but other Balkan states have been silent so far.

Anja VLADISAVLJEVIC Serbia is the regional leader in arms exports, including those to Saudi Arabia. Infographic: Balkan Insight Dusica TOMOVIC on October 20 saying that the EU con- “Also, in the light of [EU] accession According to the official data, Serbia, If there is a common position within oth Croatia and Monte- firms its commitment to media freedom negotiations, Montenegro, although not Montenegro, Bosnia, Albania and Mac- the EU, the countries of the Western Bal- negro have said they are and the protection of journalists around a member, fully adheres to all EU posi- edonia sold Saudi Arabia a total of over kans will be “diplomatically pressured” discussing the possibility the world. tions related to third country policy in 118 million euros worth of weapons and to follow suit. of halting arms exports to Mogherini also urged a thorough, this area, including restrictions and ammunition in 2016. “But for such a concession, a counter- Saudi Arabia in the wake of credible and transparent investigation sanctions,” the ministry added. The total value of arms exports from favour will surely be demanded, which Bthe death of dissident journalist Jamal to determine all the circumstances BIRN tried to reach the governments Albania, Serbia, Macedonia, Bosnia and could hold the whole story up,” he said. Khashoggi, but neither has made a deci- surrounding the death of Khashoggi in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Bul- Montenegro to Saudi Arabia in 2016 The positions taken by NATO and the sion yet. and ensure that those responsible are garia and Romania asking about the amounted to 514.6 million euros. US will also be significant, he added. Other countries in the region have brought to justice. plans for further arms export to Saudi Since 2012, exports to Saudi Arabia Balkan countries have been urged to not expressed any official position since In Montenegro, the government said Arabia but received no answers by the of weapons and ammunition worth at stop arms sales to Saudi Arabia in the German Chancellor Angela Merkel said it will also carefully consider sugges- time of publication. least 1.2 billion euros have been agreed past because of fears that the weapons at the weekend that there should be tions from EU countries on what steps On Sunday, German Chancellor Mer- by Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, end up on the battlefields of the Middle no arms exports to Saudi Arabia while to take. kel said her country will stop arms ex- Croatia, the Czech Republic, Slovakia East. questions remain about the death of The Foreign Ministry in Podgorica ports to Saudi Arabia while questions Serbia, and Romania. Some arms experts and international Khashoggi. told BIRN that in 2018, Montenegro did remain about Khashoggi, arguing that That is why Denis Avdagic, a security watchdogs contacted by BIRN believe Prior to Merkel’s remarks, other lead- not export any arms to Saudi Arabia. there is an “urgent need for further clari- and military expert from Croatia, be- weapons and equipment sold by Mon- ing German politicians called for a stop “The Foreign Ministry will be very fication” about his violent death on Oc- lieves that Balkan states will not heed tenegro that are supposedly destined to arms exports to Saudi Arabia follow- responsive in the coming period to all tober 2. Germany’s call for a moratorium. for Saudi Arabia are probably being di- ing Riyadh’s admission that the journal- obligations arising from international But for now, other key EU members, “First of all, it's about a very lucra- verted to Syria and, to a lesser extent, to ist was killed in the Saudi consulate in conventions, and respect the sanctions and the US, seem reluctant to follow tive deal, and the other thing is that it's Libya or Yemen. Istanbul. regime established within the United Berlin. On Sunday Spain said it is not hard to expect the harmonisation of the “When Saudi buys, in particular, old The Croatian Foreign Ministry told Nations and at the level of the European freezing its arms sales to the Saudis. Nei- positions of countries outside the EU if munition(s) in Central Europe, I would BIRN that Zagreb is discussing that is- Union,” it said. ther France nor Britain have followed something like that has not been done assume it is not for their own forces,” sue with its partners in the European It also said that when making deci- Germany’s move either. before in the EU,” Avdagic said. said Pieter Wezeman of the Stockholm Several members of the Drama ensemble, including Dusanka Stojanovic Glid (pictured), protested Hubac’s dismissal by organising a press conference. Photo: Beta/Media Centre Belgrade Union. sions on arms sales, the Montenegrin Balkan countries earn large amounts He argued that it will be very impor- International Peace Research Insti- The ministry cited a statement by EU government fully adheres to UN regula- of money from arms exports to Saudi tant to see what position France will tute, a leading NGO that tracks arms foreign policy chief Federica Mogherini tions. Arabia and the past five years. take on the issue. exports. PERSONAL INTERESTS “Art can’t be made without a budget, work in this country and abroad by In July, turbo-folk composer and pro- Ratko Bozovic, a professor in Sociolo- and we have been sparing. It is difficult both professionals and the theatre pub- ducer Damir Handanovic, a member gy of Art, said such personnel changes, Hubac was fired on October 13, two to constantly defend something that is lic.” of the ruling Serbian Progressive Party, however, reflected what opponents of days after the Politika interview and self-evident,” he said. was appointed director of the Belgrade Serbia’s ruling party says is its intoler- four days after a television debate on “I understand the support that you ‘HIT-MAKER’ TO HEAD Festivals Centre, which oversees a ance of difference. Prva TV with Mirela Krajinovic, whose see today from our colleagues and PRESTIGIOUS FESTIVALS number of prestigious cultural festivals “With the current state of affairs only Published by magazine The Globe recently signed a artists from the region as support for in Belgrade such as the summer theatre public voices that praise the structures contract to promote the work of the Na- something valuable that we made here Savic did not respond to BIRN re- festival BELEF, the classical music festi- of power can be allowed. Otherwise, tional Theatre in its pages. in Serbia in recent years.” quests for a comment. He has previ- val BEMUS and film festival FEST. they will be silenced,” he said. In Serbia, The deal with Krajinovic, who was a At a press conference last week, ously defended his decision to dismiss Handanovic’s Wikipedia page de- he said, “all music must meet with the 2006 cover girl for the Serbian edition leading artists of the National Theatre Hubac as motivated by a desire to scribes him as a “hit-maker” and “one of tastes” of the political elite. of Playboy, raised eyebrows. Savic was demanded Savic rescind his decision. change the artistic vision of the drama the most famous music composers of “Every time some institution or in- interviewed for the latest edition of The Serbian Culture Minister Vladan Vuko- ensemble. all times.” dividual in the cultural domain starts Globe, as was convicted Serbian war savljevic rejected calls to intervene. Hubac’s dismissal followed that of functioning freely and delivering real criminal Vojislav Seselj under the ‘City Hubac’s appointed successor, Jug Branimir Jovanovic, a highly-regarded ‘TSUNAMI OF results, you instantly know that it will Buzz’ section. Radivojevic, meanwhile, asked to be scholar of the work of Nikola Tesla, as HOMOGENEITY’ not last for long. This has become com- A LEADING PROVIDER OF NEWS AND ANALYSIS IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE Questioning the wisdom of such relieved of his duties, saying it was im- director of the Nikola Tesla Museum, monplace here – this tsunami of ho- spending, Hubac told Politika the budg- possible to do the job in the current cir- and his replacement this month by Critics say such moves undercut the mogeneity spreads from the domain et for his ensemble had been cut by al- cumstances. Ivona Jevtic, the former head of the Bel- apparent efforts of the authorities to of political pragmatism to the field of most 30 per cent without consultation Hubac described Radivojevic’s de- grade Secretariat for Culture. portray the Serbian capital as a creative, culture.” and that the next premiere would have cision as a “highly moral act”, saying: Jevtic caused a storm two years ago cosmopolitan and artistically interest- The protest over Hubac’s dismissal, for in-depth analysis, investigative reports, to be bumped from November 2018 to “This is not about me as a director but when she was made head of the Cul- ing destination, with the re-opening of however, “shows that not all islands of features, interviews, commentary and profileson the latest April 2019 at the earliest – resulting in about the principle of defending ones tural Centre of Belgrade and ordered the National Museum and Museum free thought have been flooded yet.” business and political headlines. an unjustifiable hiatus in new plays in creations and art as such.” that a part of an exhibition at the centre of Contemporary Arts, the creation of Asked to comment on the contro- the theatre’s 150th anniversary year. He Stojanovic-Glid said: “What we are – which featured photos of vandalised the Council for Creative Industries and versy, Ivan Karl, Belgrade’s Secretary was fired two days later. protesting against is this vulgarity and political party campaign posters – be the wooing of such as artists as Marina for Culture, declined to comment. “I’ve “All I asked is how the budget of the arbitrary decisions based on personal removed from the windows of the gal- Abramovic, the Belgrade-born perfor- just taken over my duties,” he told BIRN, National Theatre is spent,” Hubac told interests and out-right vendetta to- lery overlooking Belgrade’s pedestrian mance artist who is to have a retrospec- “so if you would please give me some BIRN. wards a man who was praised for his Knez Mihailova Street. tive exhibition in the city in 2019. time.” OTHER BIRN SERVICES: 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Furniture Fair Returns with Discounts Belgrade Homeless From Belgrade The 56th edition of the Interna- tional Fair of Furniture, Equip- to Get Helping Hand ment & Interior Decoration starts at the Belgrade Fair on to New Delhi, November 6 and will run until Thousands of homeless would begin operating by early Decem- November 11. The exhibition people in Belgrade ber, visiting locations in the city where aims to cover the full spectrum in brief Belgrade the homeless usually gather. will soon have access “The advantage of the bus and its mo- Serbian Street of the furniture industry – from primary wood processing to the to showers, clothes, bile services is that the huge Belgrade end product, organisers say. counseling and social area will be completely covered,” Mitro- Visitors will have the chance support wherever they vic told Belgrade’s Prva TV on October Artists Go to peruse furniture of all types 19. “It means that people don’t have to and purposes, pick up ideas might be. come to one specific place such as a for interior decoration and see prefabricated object.” a special exhibiting section Ivana NIKOLIC The bus is currently located in the Global dedicated to production materi- neighborhood of Zeleznik, where work als, machinery and tools for the furniture industry. Discounts ithin weeks, DrumoDom, is continuing on its transformation. are also rumoured. For more or ‘a home on the road’, will The seats have been pulled out and are The lifestyle can 32-year-old Mihajlovic, who mostly information visit www.sajam- Wtake to the streets of Bel- ready for shower and toilet cubicles, paints abstract themes. “We're a small namestaja.rs. grade, offering free-of-charge services and other facilities to be installed. be precarious, group, and we often work on projects to the city’s homeless. Besides providing a helping hand, and attend street art festivals together. Much-loved The specially-renovated bus will ADRA hopes the bus will also raise but for Belgrade’s We also meet many foreign artists at Wine Fest to Gather offer showers, haircuts, clothing and awareness among Belgrade’s other resi- these festivals, and our doors are al- Wine-Enthusiasts shoes as well as help and advice to aid dents of the plight facing the city’s most most talented ways open to each other.” TKV is one of the most accomplished female street artists in Serbia. Photo: Courtesy of TKV Belgrade’s homeless people in access- vulnerable. Mihajlovic, who has a degree in archi- November Wine Fest, an inter- ing the healthcare system, securing “I think that watching the branded street artists, tecture, spent many years experiment- national wine festival, takes DrumoDom is modelled after similar projects around the Photo: Courtesy of DrumoDom personal documents and finding jobs bus DrumoDom every day, our citizens world like San Francisco’s LavaMae (pictured). globetrotting is the ing with various techniques, which led place in the Serbian capital on and a place to live. will be reminded of [the homeless peo- to both his growth as an artist and the November 2-3 in the Acropolis According to the Serbian arm of the ple] and they might want to join us and around the world – in San Francisco, people are listed as sleeping rough or reward. formation of his unique abstract style. ballroom of Hotel Zira. Each ADRA development and relief organi- other public enterprises that help us in homeless people can get free showers in abandoned barracks, basements or “I had a long black-and-white period, day, from 2pm until 8pm, visi- sation, which launched the Drumo- this action of solidarity, ” Mitrovic said. on a bus in the city centre three times cardboard settlements. Around 23 per and several years during which I wasn’t tors will have the opportunity to enjoy wines, rakijas (Serbian Dom project two years ago, there are Serbia has only a handful of shelters, a week; in New York, the Homeless Bus cent are children under the age of 14. exactly sure what I was doing,” he said. fruit brandy) and gastro spe- between 3,000 and 5,000 adults living or ‘svratista’, offering mostly food and has been running for 24 years, provid- Isadora EVERTS Now, “I mainly get commissioned cialties from more than 100 on the streets of the Serbian capital, as clothing and in some cases accommo- ing food, warms socks and toiletries ADRA will be collecting funds via an for interiors: apartments and private exhibitors from the region and well as roughly 1,000 minors who have dation. Belgrade has two, one for mi- every Saturday night, while in Australia Indie-GoGo campaign from November ew young artists can boast places because my work isn’t really beyond. “The festival will also fled state facilities for children without nors and another for adults. a bus provides beds for the night. 13 to December 13. You can find more works on display in cities commercial.” enable producers to access parental care. The first of its kind in the region, According to Serbia’s last popula- details on DrumoDom Facebook page or around the world, and still “There’s a lot more demand for Ar- all necessary institutions, Igor Mitrovic of ADRA said the bus DrumoDom echoes similar projects tion census in 2011, more than 17,000 at www.adra.org.com claim to live mostly hand- tez’s style than mine. I get fewer com- companies and experts, which to-mouth. But Andrej Zikic, missions, but I mostly get complete can improve their production Fbetter known by his tag Artez, says this creative freedom when I’m given a pro- and ensure better placement is the life of the street artist. ject.” of their products,” organisers Belgrade Celebrates Centenary of Liberation in WWI Without a doubt the most active and The two have collaborated on a num- say. For more information visit commercially successful of Belgrade’s ber of projects, while Mihajlovic’s solo www.novembarvinofest.com. Serbia is celebrating the Finally, the whole of Serbia was liber- community of street artists, 30-year-old work has taken him across Serbia, Eu-

City-Centre Streets liberation of the capital and ated on November 3, 1918 and the ar- Artez’s murals adorn walls and build- rope and as far as India, where he was Close for Renovation mistice signed on November 11, which ings from Istanbul to Vienna, Sao Paolo commissioned to paint an entire build- the end of World War I ended the First World War. to New Delhi. ing. Belgraders can expect to in November 1918 with a The main commemoration of this But, he says, “It’s an unstable lifestyle.” “I would like to paint a mural in every encounter more construction series of events. important victory will take place on “You live day to day. Projects come up city in the world. But if I had to choose, sites over the coming months. November 1 at 10am in front of the City unexpectedly, and others fall through it would definitely be in New York and Reconstruction works on Fabian VENDRIG Hall of Belgrade. just when they seem most certain. This Tokyo,” he said. Nenad Colic (aka Harms) chose to paint murals in Belgrade’s abandoned factories. Photo: Courtesy of Harms Belgrade’s Karadjordjeva are At noon, an exhibition about the is definitely not a life for everyone.” A far cry from New York and Tokyo, due to start from November 1 n the morning of November event will open in Pionirski park, while Generally classed as 'visual art creat- another artist, 34-year-old Nenad Colic after the permit was issued. 1, 1918 the first Serbian army the Gallery of the Belgrade Historical ed in public locations’, street art seized – better known as Harms – has chosen Belgrade Deputy Mayor Goran Ounits entered Belgrade: the lib- Archives (Palmira Toljatija 1) will show its place as part of Belgrade’s cultural to paint murals in Belgrade’s aban- Vesic said: “During the work, eration of the city had begun. documents related to liberation. mainstream over the past few years. doned factories. one traffic lane will work Later that morning, the Serbian army The events will also mark the end Its chief practitioners are a close-knit “Belgrade has a lot of decrepit facto- and that will be the one from arrived at the fortress of Kalemegdan, of the “Days of Freedom”, a series of yet stylistically varied group of urban ries that are like museums,” he said. “All Branko’s Bridge towards the which it had been forced to abandon events that started on October 19 to young people, united by both a com- you need to do is make some installa- [Kalemegdan] fortress, while in the opposite direction an in the autumn of 1915. In the afternoon, commemorate the liberation of the pulsion to create and a philosophy of tions from the rotting wooden desks alternative link will be provided the main army units were welcomed city in the two World Wars, and cel- non-attachment to their creations. and chairs that you find inside, paint through Pop Lukina Street,” with flowers by the citizens of Belgrade. ebrate the contributions of France, Artez’s experimentation with dif- lots of murals on the walls, and you Vesic told Pink TV on October The Serbian army, under the com- Britain, Russia, Switzerland and Greece ferent styles and techniques led to his have a complete large-scale artistic ex- 13. The ongoing works on mand of Petar Bojovic, and with the during World War I. now internationally-recognised combi- hibition.” the famed bohemian quarter help of allies, including the French The end of World War I and the liber- nation of photorealism and illustration, For Harms, the iconic former Bel- army under Louis Franchet d’Espèrey, ation of Belgrade was a pivotal moment Serbian and Allied forces liberated Belgrade only 40 Photo: Wikimedia Commons often incorporating elements of nature. grade printing house Bigz is a particu- Skadarlija are supposed to days after breaking the Macedonian front. finish by December 15, Vesic liberated Belgrade within 40 days of in Serbian history. In 2013, he began a series of murals larly special canvas, as a Mecca for the also said, while the third re- the breakthrough on the Macedonian Belgrade had been occupied for that Serbia lost more than 1.1 million resented over 26 per cent of its then under the project title 'Find Your Way to city’s alternative art and music scene. construction phase is expected front, which lay almost 500 kilometres three years by the Austro-Hungarian inhabitants during the war, including total population and 58 per cent of its Fly’, a call to his audience to look inside “It has an incredible creative atmos- next spring. to the south. and German armies and it is estimated both army and civilian losses. This rep- adult male population. themselves and find their true passion. phere,” he said of the building, which “I have found my passion, and now has become an unofficial art colony. I'm working as hard as I can to make my One of his portraits, of Big Lebowski, dreams come true,” said Artez. adorns the 7th floor. Find your copy of ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR The murals depict the apparently “I wanted to paint the entire left wing +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] impossible: a girl levitating on the wall of the 7th floor, but I can’t afford it,” he Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight of a cafe in Belgrade, a rooster flying said. “I would have to finance all the tied to a tiny airplane in Bucharest, a spray paint myself, and it’s not cheap!” Artez’s murals adorn walls from Istanbul to Vienna, Sao Paolo to New Delhi. Photo: Courtesy of Artez man seemingly floating on air on a wall Harms’ largest mural is in another thing provokes me, and I, in turn, want city’s endless supply of nooks and cran- Though TKV deals with emotions in New Delhi. And all over the walls of abandoned factory, the bankrupt tex- to provoke other people. It’s just some- nies perfect for graffiti art. She began in her work, she is clear-headed about HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION RADISSON BLU his hometown, the artist has painted tile giant Kluz, and depicts the Yugoslav thing that I need to do.” at night, unseen. Things have changed both the creative and the business Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE OLD MILL HOTEL simple roosters with the message “find author Danilo Kis, who died in 1989, dramatically since then and in 2017 sides to her job. Address: Kolarceva 3 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 your way to fly.” surrounded by vibrant flowers. The A CLEAR HEAD she was featured among the world’s 50 “I quickly realised that my job is all HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL CROWNE PLAZA SKVER 44 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade idea came from the line 'flowers grow best female street artists in the Xavier about communication with people,” Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 Address: Pozeska 44a RESTAURANT BIZU URBAN ARTWORK TOURS in the garbage’ in Kis’s first novel, The In the male-dominated club of Bel- Tapies book Women Street Artists: The she said. “I spend a lot of time negotiat- Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 RESTAURANT DVA JELENA Attic, and symbolises the endurance of grade street artists, TKV, or Kraljica Vila Complete Guide. ing deals, buying canvases, cutting my CAFE SNEZANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF INTERGALACTIC DINER Address: Skadarska 32 Last year, trying to raise the profile beauty in a rotting space. (Fairy Queen), stands out as the woman Female street artists still struggle for stencils, and generally preparing to start Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF of Belgrade’s street art scene, Artez and Unlike, for instance, Artez, for Harms behind the stencils of female charac- pay parity with their male counterparts a project. It’s like any other business.” Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Skadarska 34 BELGRADE another street artist, Nikola Mihajlovic, street art is more a passion than a full- ters that can be seen all over the capital. but TKV, now 30, has managed to de- Her professionalism has paid divi- Mihajla Pupina 85A KOLARAC Address: Temisvarska 19 founded Street Up (streetuptours.com), time profession. Fascinated by stencil art, TKV – who fend a fixed price for her commercial dends, with projects in Linz, Zagreb, Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL COURTYARD BY TOURIST offering tours of the city’s urban art- Despite mounting a number of ex- asked for her real name not to be used – work, painting murals in cafes and res- Paris and Berlin. MARRIOTT THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL ORGANISATION OF SERBIA work, led by artists and taking in the hibitions, the dream of making a living settled on the technique when she was taurants across the city and for private “Painting for myself on the street is HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Trg Republike 5 murals of Dorcol, Savamala and Cigla- exclusively from art in Serbia remains 16 years old and it has become her signa- individuals too. what I really love, but I know that in or- Address: Kneza Milosa 5 Address: Smetanina 12 Address: Kolarceva 7 Address: Cika Ljubina 8 na. They also offer workshops in the just that, a dream. ture style, peppering Belgrade’s predom- “They hire you to do a job because der to make that part possible, I need to HILTON BELGRADE basics of street art. “I think that many artists don’t know inantly grey facades with vibrant colour. they've seen your work, so they should have these commercial projects. Either Address: Kralja Milana 35 “The best thing about being a street how to self-promote and market their TKV began working as a street art- trust you,” she said. “It’s no different to you have to be a realist, or you have artist is that we’re like a big family,” said work,” he said. “I paint because some- ist in Belgrade in 2004, drawn to the hiring a plumber.” someone else being the realist for you.” 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 7 SERBIA BUSINESS

COMMENT The Rise of Magic during New Serbia-Russia Gas Yugoslavia’s Death Throes Deal Remains Opaque In December 2017, Gazprom chief Belgrade and Alexey Miller and Dusan Bajatovic, Although Group 69 members were Moscow authorities head of Serbian public gas company With normal frequent guests in mainstream media, Srbijagas, but also a member of the su- life suspended such as the popular astrologer Milja have not revealed pervisory board of Russia's Yugorosgaz, Vujanovic who claimed to be married specific details signed an addendum to the long-term during the chaos to Regulus, a star in the constellation contract between Gazprom Export and of Leo, much of the group's work was of an amended Yugorosgaz for Russian gas deliveries and wars of the covert. They counted the downing of to Serbia. several planes during the war in Bosnia agreement which According to the contract, the 90s, Yugoslavs and the NATO bombing of Serbia, plus amount of Russian gas supplies under a few mishaps that befell the Pope and will enable Serbia the current contract will be increased turned to the several Western officials, among their from 1.5 billion cubic metres to two bil- to re-export some paranormal achievements of the time. lion cubic metres per year starting from According to many sources however, of the Russian gas 2018. for hope and one of the group's main concerns was A few months earlier, in July, the the 'Roman well' – it was actually built being pumped into Hungarian government and Russia's protection. in the 18th Century - inside Belgrade for- Gazprom signed an agreement on the tress, which they considered a major the country. extension of the TurkStream gas pipe- source of evil. To combat its noxious in- line through Bulgaria and Serbia to Srdjan GARCEVIC fluence on Serbia, they are said to have Hungary. contemplated kidnapping prominent Maja ZIVANOVIC "The Turkish Stream pipeline ena- very Halloween, I re- Western politicians, such as George H bles us to receive eight billion cubic me- member how growing W Bush, and throwing them inside the he Serbian and Rus- tres of gas annually from Serbia," Hun- up in 1990s Belgrade I well to counter its evil spirits. The 'Tesla sian governments have garian Foreign Minister Peter Szijjarto was, like many children weapon' was a Group 69 project and its changed their energy told media at the time. across the world, fasci- existence was 'leaked' to the press dur- agreement to enable Although both Serbia and Russia nated by the mysterious ing the 1999 NATO bombing. the re-export of Russian didn't reply to BIRN's queries about the andE the occult. Besides gorging on hor- Much of the insanity of 1990s magic gas from Serbia to other details of the deal for re-exporting Rus- ror and mystery films, I loved going to mania stopped after Milosevic was de- Tcountries, but details of the amended sian gas, Gazprom has said that its rep- our neighbours, an elderly lady and her posed. Psychics were banned from Ser- deal have not yet been revealed to me- resentatives met Serbian Foreign Min- daughter, who would, night after night, bian TV in 2009 and every few months dia or the public. ister Ivica Dacic and Serbian Energy tell stories of the paranormal to my there is news about a faith healer being In a separate development, Alexey Minister Aleksandar Antic on October sceptical grandmother. During every arrested, often for putting someone at Miller, the head of the Russian energy 3 at the Russian Energy Week forum in visit, they would tell stories of super- risk through dangerous advice or un- giant Gazprom, said on October 21 that Moscow. natural beings, such as the 'drekavci', toward sexual activity. Even my two Serbia could be soon connected to "The parties pointed to the high ef- vampire-like creatures of Serbian folk- neighbours whose magical exploits the TurkStream pipeline project link- ficiency of the bilateral cooperation lore and hairdressers whose hands expanded my awareness of the occult, ing Russia to Turkey, and that Serbia is in the gas industry, emphasising, inter were guided by the Virgin Mary, while now focus more on making a living in among the countries which will receive alia, the reliability of gas supplies, the also sharing theories and prophecies present day Serbia than finding magi- increased quantities of gas as a result. amount of which had increased by 41 that explained the everyday tumults of cal cures to their problems. The Serbian parliament on Septem- per cent from 2014 to 2017. In the first Milosevic's Serbia. Still the traces of the 'magical 1990s' ber 21 ratified amendments to the gas nine months of 2018, Gazprom had In my eyes, their nightly attempts to linger in Serbia. In 2014, the former Ser- deal that Serbia and Russia struck in exported 1.5 billion cubic meters of gas conjure up explanations of things all of bian President Tomislav Nikolic quoted 2012, but no public statements about to Serbia, a 2.9 per cent rise against the us barely understood in those murky a line from the Kremna Prophecies that the changes have followed. same period of 2017," a Gazprom press days - the erratic politics of Milosevic's foretold "people from the East, yellow The changes concerned just one line release said. regime, why some of our neighbours Home of Milos and Mitar Tarabic, prophets from the village of Kremna. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/ CrniBombarder!!! people" will rule the world and drink in the agreement – the line saying that It added that special attention was were unlucky in love and complicated mind-reading, pundits quoted colour- In Serbia in 1982, the 19th Century Although none of the local occult from Serbian rivers when he met the the gas that Russia exports to Serbia is paid to the expansion of the Serbian discussions of hexes, masonic conspir- ful books of prophecies, as well as al- Kremna Prophecies were put back in stars ever reached global fame, they Chinese Premier Li Keqiang. Publica- intended only for the Serbian market. gas transmission system for further acies, cults and prophecies - rivalled ternative histories claiming Serbs were the spotlight after Dragoljuc Golubovic, were making good use of new tech- tions that spread conspiracy theories This sentence was deleted. strengthening the reliability of gas de- anything I could watch on the X-Files. the oldest nation or that the scientist a famous journalist, and Dejan Malen- nologies and the chaos of the Milose- are still around and in many book- Both the Serbian Energy Ministry liveries in the region. While my family was adamantly Nikola Tesla engaged in occult work. In kovic, published a popular book about vic years. Many of them had their own shops you can still find quack-science and Gazprom declined to provide de- Dacic said during the meeting that against astrologers, fortune tellers and addition to our local divinely-inspired them. Allegedly dictated to a priest in shows on new TV networks such as books explaining the mythical origins tails about the circumstances in which Gazprom representatives informed faith healers, our neighbours spent a hairdresser, there were also decorators, a remote mountain village by two illit- Pink and launched their own psychic of Serbs or masonic conspiracy theo- Serbia can re-export Russian gas, and him about the progress of work on lot of money on spiritual cleanses and electricians and artists who regularly erate shepherds, the prophecies were telephone hotlines. ries next to respected, authentic ones. about how the profits will be shared. TurkStream. de-hexing despite their constantly pre- claimed otherworldly connections. part of Serbian pop culture and were Of course, these 1990s psychics were Enough people distrust conventional Meanwhile Serbian experts have "This is a very important thing for carious finances. Once they even paid Indeed, belief in the paranormal used to interpret various political hap- a colourful bunch. Lav Gersman, a Jew- medicine and vaccination that this warned that the Balkan country doesn't Serbia because we receive gas from one The new TurkStream project would replace the failed South Stream pipeline. Photo: Beta/Emil Vas about two hundred deutschmarks, a lot spread so far that our very sober fam- penings up until World War II. ish Ukrainian 'white mage' who moved year Serbia topped the list of measles- have sufficient infrastructure to enable it single direction - and that is from Russia of money at the time, to be locked into ily friends who emigrated to London According to Serbian essayist Voja to Serbia and was consulted on politi- related deaths in Europe. to offer the Russian gas to all the countries through Ukraine. On the other hand, In a report in January, the US Demo- The US meanwhile has declared its warned that Serbia should change its their own darkened home and starved assured us in an email sent during the Antonic, who published an analysis of cal events, used to be circus performer. The past and present popularity of that might be interested in importing it. the last attempt to make the South cratic Party said Russia is aggressively strong support for Croatia's planned energy agreement with Russia so its for two days in the company of one lo- NATO bombing of Yugoslavia (then the Kremna phenomenon, the Golubo- Kleopatra, the self-styled 'queen of magic in Serbia and the rest of the for- Stream failed due to the obstruction of targeting countries that have taken project to build a floating terminal to re- companies are not prohibited from cal occult hobbyist, who had a full-time formed of Serbia and Montenegro) in vic-Malenkovic version of the proph- clairvoyants' who helped and scolded mer Yugoslavia is to a large extent due SERBIAN LEADER TOUTS Bulgaria and the EU, or the European "tangible steps" to integrate with West- ceive liquefied natural gas, LNG, on the exporting the gas they purchase from job as an engineer at a state company. 1999 that we 'needn't worry, as Tesla's ecies had been modified to include her fans each night on TV, was a folk to the fact that many of us experienced EXPORT POTENTIAL Commission," Dacic said. ern institutions like the EU or NATO in island of Krk. The project is intended to Gazprom to other countries. Although they did not seem too happy weapon' was almost ready. Needless to allusions to events that took place in singer in the 1980s and one of the first our lives being controlled by hidden Russia's planned South Stream pipe- order to impede integration processes. help to diversify the gas supply in the "Destination clauses in gas contracts with the result and they could not ex- say, this mythical weapon conceived Yugoslavia during World War II, the trans personalities of the former Yugo- forces beyond our comprehension: During his visit to Moscow in Decem- line envisioned pumping gas via Bul- "In addition to disinformation and country and in the region. and intergovernmental agreements are plain the process, they would still insist by Nikola Tesla, a famous scientist of rise of communism and Tito himself. slavia. The problems they dealt with the collapse of the socialist economy, ber 2017, Serbian President Aleksandar garia, but it was abandoned in 2014 after the co-opting of political forces, Russia not legal under EU and Energy Com- the guy emanated 'good energy'. Serb origin, which uses electromag- In subsequent editions of the book, on their shows were varied and ranged new geopolitical realities, and even Vucic announced that his country will Sofia pulled out over problems caused employs energy resources as a weapon EU COUNTRIES 'INTERESTED munity law and have been removed Although my neighbours were on netic waves for mind control and/or prophecies were constantly amended from romantic troubles to darker topics new interpretations of history. Many become a gas exporter. by the project's non-compliance with to gain leverage in these countries," it IN SERBIAN RE-EXPORTS' from contracts and agreements all over the more extreme end of the spectrum, destruction, depending on which con- to reflect new events until in its 8th edi- of domestic violence and tracing rela- saw the certainties of Tito's Yugoslavia, Radojka Nikolic, editor-in-chief of Bi- European Union competition and en- said. Europe," Kopac was quoted saying by a rarely discussed abnormality of life spiracy theory you subscribe to, failed tion published in 1991 as Yugoslavia fell, tives who had disappeared in the Yugo- such as state-provided cushy jobs for znis magazine, told Tanjug news agen- ergy legislation. But Vuletic argued that Serbia is an Serbian energy expert Dragan Bu- Reuters. in what was left of Yugoslavia under to materialise. an optimistic prophecy about long-last- slav wars. life and the belief in a common Yugo- cy that this means Serbia will charge energy-poor country that has to import dosan told BIRN in March that Serbia "Destination clauses are of concern Milosevic's rule was the ubiquity of the ing peace in Yugoslavia was removed slav future, collapse spectacularly in transit fees to other countries, like Hun- QUESTIONS RAISED OVER gas from Russia. stands to gain from the new deal with for the integration of gas markets in paranormal. From their TV screens and DESCENT INTO CHAOS from the book. MILOSEVIC'S front of their eyes to be replaced with gary has done in the past. SERBIAN INFRASTRUCTURE "Russia's interest in gas exports Russia, as many countries, particularly Europe. They have been widely elimi- their plush offices in central Belgrade, The speed of Yugoslavia's decline PSYCHIC SOLDIERS completely new ways of looking at the "So far, Serbia has had gas agree- through Serbia is simply about earning members of the EU, do not have such nated in the EU, and with the recent psychics and astrologers competed While folk magic traditions and be- into instability in the late 80s and early world. ments that only made it possible for us The head of the Serbian Gas Asso- money from the gas that is sold. The agreements with Russia, so might be in- amendments Serbia follows suit. The with newly formed banks (read: Ponzi- liefs existed throughout the run of sci- 90s was only matched by the growing One of the most bizarre episodes In that maelstrom, which has only to import gas. Serbia is now becoming ciation, Vojislav Vuletic, argued that the more it sells, the more it earns. All funds terested in importing Russian gas pur- correction sends an important signal, schemes) to enchant tens of thousands entific-rational, socialist Yugoslavia, the popularity of various clairvoyants, ma- of this early 90s magic mania was recently ebbed, believing that there an exporter of gas, which automati- changes to the gas agreement with Rus- from the gas that is sold go to Russia, of chased from Serbia. for Serbia and the entire region," Energy of Yugoslavs into giving them their pre- turn towards the paranormal started ges and healers. The most popular were the formation of a group of psychics are powerful truths and forces beyond cally means the inclusion of Serbia in sia don't mean a lot because of the lack course," he claimed. The EU has welcomed the amend- Community Secretariat deputy direc- cious savings. after Josip Broz Tito, the Yugoslav-era foreign imports Allan Chumak, a Rus- within the army of what was left of the your comprehension, may not seem the new Turkish Stream [now renamed of necessary infrastructure in Serbia. Vuletic said that European countries ment to Serbia's agreement with Russia. tor Buschle explained to BIRN. Colourful covers of Trece Oko (Third socialist ruler, died in 1980. sian faith-healer who came to promi- Yugoslav Federation. Called Group that far-fetched after all… TurkStream] gas pipeline," Nikolic was "Serbia does not have the capacity to are interested in Russian gas because it The deputy director and legal coun- However, although the recent Eye) and Zona Sumraka (Twilight Zone) The first major indication things nence during Gorbachev's Perestroika, 69, it sought to use the talents of lo- quoted as saying. supply some other country with Russian is cheaper and more reliable compared sel of the EU's Energy Community Sec- amendment to the energy deal with regularly told stories of vampire at- were heading in a paranormal direction and a blind Bulgarian prophet, Van- cal psychics to fight against what its Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a According to the Gazprom website, gas via its territory, because the condi- to other sources of supply. retariat, Dirk Buschle, said that the Sec- Russia could benefit Serbia, particu- tacks, curses applied and removed and came in 1981, when the Virgin Mary was geliya Dimitrova, better known as 'Baba prominent member and chief theo- founder of The Nutshell Times blog. TurkStream is a joint Russia-Turkey tions for this don't exist - that is, infrastruc- According to the Financial Times, retariat was happy to see that Serbia, as larly because they are in compliance magical wars waged between white said to have appeared before six youths Vanga'. Chumak's popularity in Serbia rist Svetozar Radisic called 'an eco- project, which will pump gas to the ture that is already built - and there are no Russian gas exports to Europe rose a member of the Community, corrected with EU rules, it remains unclear why and black mages for the future of Yugo- in Medjugorje, a town in Southern Her- was such that in addition to appearing nomic, technological, psychological, The opinions expressed in the Com- European part of Turkey for Turkish sources of supply," Vuletic told BIRN. 8.1 per cent in 2017 to a record level of the non-compliance of the agreement the Serbian and Russian authorities are slavia. On TV, beside colourful charac- zegovina. The town has since become a on most popular TV shows, a magazine informational, religious, cultural, geo- ment section are those of the authors customers, and to a border crossing be- Gazprom's importance to Serbia is 193.9bn cubic metres. Russian pipelines with Community rules on competition. concealing the conditions under which ters displaying their supernatural gifts major pilgrimage site, despite not being published his photos so that his believ- graphic and neo-cortical war against only and do not necessarily re ect the tween Turkey and Greece as a delivery widely seen as Russia's most direct supply almost 40 per cent of Europe's In January 2017, the head of the the gas that Serbia buys from Russia ranging from resistance to electricity to recognised by the Vatican. ers could be healed by his energy. Serbs'. views of BIRN. point for European customers. source of influence on the country. gas, the newspaper said. EU Energy Community, Janez Kopac, could be re-exported. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 9 REGION FACES About town with… An Anglican KRISTINA STEFANOVIC ZIVANOVIC Home in the Heart of

Kristina is an art his- Orthodox Belgrade torian, independent curator, and gallery owner.

MORNING

Though by nature more of a night owl, my mornings have become more active since the birth of my daughter and the growth of my gallery. My work involves mediating the relationship between buyer and artist; I would describe the experience of presenting and transferring artwork as a very emotional one, something that is raw, tangible and spiritual – and one that I savour. When time permits, I like to visit the park, take in an early coffee at Poslednja sansa (Tasmajdanski park bb) or pop by Poslasticarnica DJ (Svetozara Markovica 36) for a marzipan and almond cake.

AFTERNOON

fternoons are usually reserved for my gal- lery, Imidz, which opened in 2013. It contains individual small and medium-sized works by Father Robin Fox in Belgrade’s Church of St Mary in Vracar. Photo: Carina Julig around 80 local artists and which I personally selected in line with my own creative vision The bulk of the congregation is made robes. To raise money, the church hosts and the style of the gallery. In my spare time, Father Robin Fox up of embassy workers and other for- events such as wine tastings and used- Macedonian Opposition Party I enjoy checking out other local exhibitions, has led Belgrade’s eign professionals on short-term post- book sales. particularly from the world of contemporary ings in Serbia. International parishion- One of Fox's students, Filip Nichol- ers come mainly from heavily Anglican son, has decided he wants to become a art. Some of my favourite exhibition spaces small but passion- countries, including Britain, Ghana and priest. Nicholson grew up in Serbia and include Remont (Marsala Birjuzova 7), Kultur- Purges High-Profile Members ate Anglican com- India. was raised Orthodox. But he was curi- ni centar Beograda (Knez Mihailova 6), U10 However, Fox said that some locals ous about other religions traditions, and (Kosovke devojke 3), Prozor (Koce Popovica The name-change vote in the parliament caused a major rift in Macedonia’s main opposition party. Photo: AP Photo/Boris Grdanoski munity for 14 years. are also drawn to St. Mary's, especially visited St. Mary's one day. He was struck 9), and Novembar (Kursulina 22). If peckish, those who have lived abroad and grew by the theology and style of worship, I might grab vegan tortillas at Radost Fina “Differences don’t to love different styles of Christian wor- and chose to be received into the An- Macedonia’s After the meeting, one of the party’s meeting however was to expel the long- took another hit at Monday’s meeting sador to Hungary, also suggested on Kuhinjica (Pariska 3) or cevapi and veal stew ship. glican Communion. He now hopes to vice-presidents, Aleksandar Nikoloski, standing 'eminence grise’ and former se- with the dismissal of the party’s execu- Monday that the party’s reasons for the at Orasac (Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 122). As matter,” says Fox. While the majority of their parishion- become ordained, and is taking lessons insisted that the purges, which effective- cret police chief Saso Mijalkov, a cousin tive committee member Kostadin Bog- dismissals and exclusions were “fake” ers are Anglican, Fox said the congre- from Fox to improve his language skills. I value inner balance in a hectic city, I practice VMRO DPMNE ly strengthen the position of party leader to former party leader Nikola Gruevski. danov. and that behind them is the intention gation is made up primarily of people "When I learn English I will go to Eng- Hristijan Mickoski, were part of a much Nikoloski said that Mijalkov was being Earlier this month, VMRO DPMNE also to further centralise internal decision- chen-style tai chi three times a week at the who prefer to worship in English, rather land to study Anglican theology," he dismissed needed “catharsis” that would bring the expelled for the same reasons as Jancev. dismissed the reformist Petar Bogojeski making. Hua Kang Club (Lazareviceva 4). Carina JULIG than those seeking a specific denomi- said. one of its vice- party back to its roots. Mijalkov, who is currently standing tri- from the post of party deputy secretary- On October 19, despite firm instruc- nation. British connections to Serbia stretch Nikoloski said the former ruling party, al in several court cases instigated by the general. tions from the VMRO DPMNE party n a Sunday morning "It's home for a lot of different reli- all the way back to World War I, when presidents and in opposition since last year, would now Special Prosecution, is regarded as one “We simply have conflicting visions leadership to vote against, eight of the EVENING in Belgrade's Vra- gious groups," he said. British troops were sent to this Balkan move forward strongly after being “re- of the pivotal figures in the former re- with the party president about the path 48 legislators from the opposition bloc, car district, several For Anglicans living abroad, St. country. St. Mary's has a good relation- formed and unified”. gime led by Gruevski which was ousted our party should follow and how our supported the government-proposed dozen worshipers Mary's is a home away from home. ship with the Serbian Orthodox church, ousted several Whenever possible, I enjoy taking in a play at The expulsions followed the parlia- last year after a prolonged political crisis. country should develop,” Bogndanov start of the parliamentary procedure for file into a small, pew- When Esther Helajzen first arrived in as well as the local Catholic diocese, the Yugoslav Drama Theatre (Kralja Milana other high-profile mentary vote on October 19 during which He and Gruevski have been pinpoint- told NOVA TV on Monday, adding that constitutional changes needed for im- filled second-story Belgrade in the 1990s, she did not know which owns the building that St. Mary's seven VMRO DPMNE MPs defied the ed as the alleged masterminds behind the conflicts intensified after the reform- plementation of the 'name’ agreement 50) or Rasa Plaovic stage of the National roomO to sing and pray in English. West- anyone, and was nervous about how currently worships in. However, they members in what party line and voted with the government the mass illegal wiretapping scandal that ists urged the leadership not to block with Greece. Theatre in Belgrade (Francuska 3). I might ern-style statues of Jesus and Mary she would find her own community. do not evangelise to the local Serb pop- for constitutional changes which would sparked the crisis. They have denied any the 'name’ agreement and confront the The seven of them were members catch a movie, preferably a documentary, decorate a simple altar, and an Ortho- "I was worrying about all of this to my ulation, in order not to strain relations some insiders allow the country’s name to be altered to illegal activity. West. of VMRO DPMNE were excluded from at the Kinoteka (Uzun Mirkova 1), Takvud dox icon stands to the side. daughter and she said 'oh never mind with the Orthodox. implement the agreement with Greece. However, when asked, Nikoloski said “I deeply believe that Macedonia will party membership the same night, as (Kneza Milosa 7a), or Kombank Dvorana Although St. Mary's Church might mum, I know you'll find a church,'" "We don't go around saying 'come The highest-ranking figure to be dis- that former party leader Gruevski re- be a prosperous country, and a NATO party leader Mickoski accused them of lack the grandeur of Belgrade Ortho- Helajzen said. She has been going to St. to the Anglican church, we have short see as a purge (Decanska 14). I like to escape the city twice missed was one of the party’s vice-pres- mains its honorary president, as “no evi- and EU member, thanks to the 'name’ betrayal and of succumbing to blackmail dox cathedrals, it provides a home for Mary's ever since. services and chairs,'" Fox said. "But we a month to reconnect with nature through intended to idents, Mitko Jancev. dence” was found that he was involved agreement,” Bogdanov said. and possible bribes offered by the ruling the city's small but dedicated Anglican don't turn anyone away either." Jancev was dismissed for “acting in any wrongdoing inside the party. coalition. the Zeleznicar Mountaineering Club (Bulevar population. Founded in Britain in the MONEY-RAISING Despite the small size and financial further centralise against VMRO DPMNE’s and Macedo- Another high-profile party member PURGE OR PR? The MPs have denied this, insisting Mihajla Pupina 165a). However, if I’m in the 16th century, the Anglican Commun- struggles of running a foreign church, nia’s interests, due to strong cooperation who was ousted was Nikola Todorov, the they had voted freely. city on a weekend, I enjoy the music at Idiot ion is the second-largest protestant Fox is the only Anglican priest in the Fox said he loves the job. He especially the right-wing with [Prime Minister] Zoran Zaev, as well former Health Minister in Gruevski’s gov- Stevo Naskovski, who is also part of After the fiasco in parliament, VMRO Bar (Dalmatinska 13), from rock-and-roll of denomination in the world. But with countries that comprise the former Yu- appreciates the lack of bureaucracy opposition party. as for organising a group to pressurise, ernment. the party’s reformist wing, described the DPMNE leader Mickoski took flak from the 70s and 90s to alternative and the music protestants making up only one per- goslavia. Along with leading St. Mary's, compared to being a priest in England. blackmail, threaten and bribe VMRO Todorov also opposed the party boy- purges as a mere “burlesque” intended party sympathisers on social networks of Generation X. I also enjoy live gigs at Polet cent of the Serbian population, which is he travels to their sister congregation "Here, you can just get on with the DPMNE legislators so that they vote for cott of the 'name’ referendum, insisting to falsely suggest reforms while in fact for allowing the “betrayal”, and was even overwhelmingly Orthodox, St. Mary's is in the Croatian capital Zagreb once business of being the church," he said. (Cetinjska 15), Dom Omladine (Makedonska Sinisa Jakov MARUSIC the constitutional changes, using the that this would lead to the further isola- strengthening the centralised power of accused of not taking an even firmer unique. a month to hold services. There are He added that the lack of other op- 22) and KC Grad (Brace Krsmanovica 4), as lowest of methods”, Nikoloski said. tion of the party and alienation from its the current leader, who still has close stance against the 'name’ agreement. The congregation is shepherded by Anglican communities in the Macedo- tions brings people together who t an extraordinary Jancev was seen as one of the most Western allies who have strongly sup- connections with the former Gruevski On the night of the parliamentary I prefer locations that have more of a club Father Robin Fox, a genial British ex- nian and Bosnian capitals, Skopje and wouldn't normally worship in the same session of its central respected and promising VMRO DPMNE ported the implementation of the his- leadership. vote, demanded that the MPs who atmosphere, rather than stadium-sized are- pat who has led St. Mary's for 14 years. Sarajevo, as well, but due to a shortage congregation. committee on Monday members. During last year’s local elec- toric agreement with Greece that opens “They want to portray to the public acted against the leadership's policy nas. Music is a great passion of mine: I’m also A native of Chesterfield, England, Fox of priests, they only have services oc- "Here, differences don't matter," Fox night, VMRO DPMNE tions, he became mayor of the town of Ka- Macedonia’s doors to NATO and EU that Mickoski’s wing is dealing with and resign from parliament so that they a singer and songwriter and play in a band served as a priest in several British casionally. said. "The only thing we fight about is purged several high- vadarci, one of the last remaining VMRO membership. purging the so-called criminal ex-lead- can be replaced with other party MP devoted to dark Goth and punk rock. congregations before being stationed At first, the Church of England paid the hymns." profile members, re- DPMNE strongholds in the country. ership. However, judging by its policies, candidates. in Belgrade in 2004. He also serves as Fox's salary, but since the financial crisis Aquested resignations from renegade During the September 30 name refer- REFORMISTS this 'umbilical cord’ [between the cur- At the same time, Nikoloski threat- chaplain to the British Embassy and as of the mid-2000s, every foreign parish Carina Julig is a journalism student Kristina Stefanovic Zivanovic’s Imidz Galerija MPs who supported the 'name’ agree- endum, he confronted the VMRO DPMNE TAKE ANOTHER HIT rent leadership and the former one] is ened more expulsions if some of the re- the Archbishop of Canterbury's official needs to be financially self-sustainable. of the SIT Study Abroad Program ment with Greece at last week’s parlia- leader, insisting that the party’s silent boy- still very strong,” Naskovski told 1 TV on maining VMRO MPs decide to endorse is located at Svetozara Markovica 4. She is cur- representative to the Serbian Orthodox So five days a week Fox is an English Serbia, Bosnia and Kosovo: Peace and mentary vote and threatened to oust cott of the plebiscite was a mistake. The so-called reformist wing inside Monday night. the 'name' agreement during the ongo- rently working on an upcoming gallery exhibi- Church. language teacher at the International Conflict Studies in the Balkans. This other MPs if they support the agreement The most unusual decision made at the party, which wants internal democ- Igor Esmerov, a VMRO DPMNE mem- ing process which will require two more tion. Follow www.facebook.com/imidz.galerija Fox said that around 30 people at- House and works as a private tutor. story was written as an assignment for in the future. the VMRO DPMNE central committee ratisation and a strict pro-Western path, ber and former Macedonian ambas- rounds of voting in parliament. for more information. tend services at St. Mary's each week. On the weekends, he dons his clerical Program's Journalism Track. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT HEALTH AND FAMILY

Feel out Futog’s famous cabbage As the temperature begins to 'Vlach Magic’ of Eastern Serbia drop, the appetite for a heavy, Belgrade Science Festival hearty meal grows. And what VRATNA CANYON traditional Serbian feast AND MONASTERY would be complete without Else? Where featuring cabbage in some The Vratna river canyon, a three- Tackles Earth’s Future way, shape or form? If this and-a-half hour drive from Belgrade, is healthy, leafy green is at the a natural wonder thanks to three im- top of your vegetable list, you pressive natural stone arches - the tall- won’t want to miss out on est in Europe – that rise above its floor. the Futog Cabbage Festival The first two arches, called Small Door (Kupusijada). The annual and Large Door, are a 20-minute hike festival, started over 15 years from the entrance to the canyon, while ago in the Novi Sad suburb of the last one, Dry Door, takes two hours to get to. Futog located on the banks of Besides the beauty of these skeletal the Danube, takes place dur- arches you can also admire the pictur- ing the traditional cabbage- esque 14th century Vratna monastery picking season, and falls on that lies at the entrance to the canyon October 26-27 this year. Its and also buy honey and other produce goals include promoting the made by its nuns. unique and autochthonous cabbage variety, grown only TRSKA CRKVA in Futog. This variety has not only been awarded status as Trska Crkva is a 13th century church a product of protected desig- close to the town of Zagubica in the nation of origin, but is prized middle of the Homolje region. The by many other nations that church is notable not only for its Raska- import it, including France, style architecture, which is a local mix Germany, and the U.S. During of Byzantine and Romanesque archi- the two-day festival, visitors tecture, decorated with two impressive will find out which cabbage griffins rising above its entrance, but will win the prize for being also for ancient marks on its stones, the heaviest and participate which to date remain unexplained and More than 600 scientists are expected to take part in Photo: Courtesy of Science Festival th the festival this year. in the local customs and some claim go back to the 9 century. tourist offers of the village. The etchings range from undeciphered inscriptions and stylised crosses to Special attention will be paid drawings of stags and hunters and give to the preparation of meals the church a mysterious air. featuring the Futog cabbage. Science Festival Highlights For more information, check KRUPAJ SPRING out www.futog.rs. Rajac’s ancient cemetery. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic Organisers have not revealed the entire programme yet, The karst spring next to the village of but Belgrade Insight can offers you a glimpse of some of Celebrate Sarma many of the locals left Eastern Serbia These wonderful limestone struc- Milanovac is famous for its deep blue col- the most interesting workshops and experiments at the in Backa Topola Famed and feared to find work in Germany, Austria and tures were built when the fortunes our. The water springs up from a 70-me- upcoming Science Festival. France, and that many of its wonderful of several hundred Rajac villagers tre deep cave and makes for a wonder- On Saturday November 3, for elaborate Vlach villages are now almost empty. improved after the phylloxera louse fully photogenic scene, thanks to the OUR INNER VOLCANOS head out to Backa Topola, in death rituals, Ser- Nevertheless, Eastern Serbia is a fas- epidemic destroyed European wine thick forest surrounding it. Until 1945, the north east of Vojvodina bia’s east is also cinating region to explore, especially in production. The Rajac vineyards were when a small dam was built, you could Not heard of your inner volcano? You guessed it – it’s your on to enjoy one of Serbia’s the autumn when its thick forests ex- spared thanks to the dry, sandy soil of see the water gushing from the earth, but heart and blood vessels. Organisers of this little experi- most traditional, hearty home to Roman plode in all possible colours and make the area. now there is a beautifully serene lake in- ment argue that our inner volcanos are active every day – dishes: sarma. Sarma festival navigating its narrow roads a pleasure Although many of the cellars are stead. Next to the spring is a fish farm and they have to be taken good care of if we don’t want to be (Sarmijada), which takes palaces, historical rather than a chore. now abandoned, some still offer the a mill, as well as a hot spring. surprised by a huge eruption. Here you will learn about the place from 7am to 6pm, will As it is impossible to cram every- chance to try local wines and speciali- heart’s electrical activity as well as fluids located in blood be celebrating the beloved vineyards, medieval thing there is to see in Eastern Serbia ties, and also spend a night. GORNJAK GORGE vessels. pickled cabbage, rice and monasteries and into one trip or article, here are a few of Another thing not to miss is the at- Last year’s festival was seen by more than 30,000 people and organisers hope to top that this time around. Photo: Courtesy of Science Festival meat roll for the sixth time the must-see sites. While you are there, mospheric local cemetery with its col- Called the Gates of Homolje, Gornjak WILDERNESS CALLING by making teams, including more. make sure you try the famous Homolje umn-shaped grave stones, decorated gorge forms the entrance to some of the to emphasise the role of the individual hold objects; from France, the French international ones, lock horns and Miroc cheese, as well as the region's with elaborate solar and cross motifs, most stunning parts of Serbia. Besides Gathering more as well as the community in this story, Institute for Research in Computer This exhibit takes interested visitors camping deep in the forest, in some cases even to vast flat prairies or to for the title of best sarma Srdjan GARCEVIC honey and Negotin wines. characteristic for the region. the impressive sheer cliffs, the gorge and especially the role science plays Science and Automation, Inria, will mountain peaks. You’ll learn how to make a shelter or use master. Ambitious chefs can hides two monasteries: the rock hewn than 600 scien- in all of this,” said festival coordinator look at the ability of robots to hear and he mountains and for- FELIX ROMULIANA MANASIJA and abandoned Blagovestenje and the Marija Pavlovic. understand humans; the Estonian Sci- a compass, how to put up a tent and other survival skills. choose to compete in prepar- Visitors will also have the opportunity to learn more about ing one of the three varieties ests between the Dan- stately Gornjak. A bit further from the tists in Belgrade, “Since it is science that can best deal ence Centre, AHHAA, will explore the ube, Great Morava and A UNESCO-listed site since 2007, One of Serbia's most iconic monas- gorge towards Petrovac na Mlavi, there with all the problems of today, we firm- world of water and its “most amazing the plants and animals they might encounter somewhere of sarma: classic (using the along the road. Timok rivers have a Felix Romuliana or Gamzigrad is the teries, Manasija (also known as Ravan- is also a natural hot spring developed this year’s edition ly believe that with this little help from features.” traditional pickled cabbage centuries-long reputa- 4th century Roman palace of Emperor ica) is celebrating its 600th anniversary into the Zdrelo spa hotel and water park scientists and their important innova- US neuroscientist and TED rising star leaves), non-standard (using PANGEA ULTIMA tion for mystery, thanks Galerius. The complex is recognisable this year. The monastery was built in where you can enjoy the thermal waters of the Science tions this world can really have a nice Greg Gage will take to the stage once spinach or grape leaves, or to the rich culture of its large indig- for its immaculately preserved fortifi- the ornate Morava style, a unique ar- throughout the year, albeit in a slightly future for all of us.” more in Belgrade with a look at how T The name refers to a future supercontinent configuration whatever the competitor enous Vlach population and the won- cations and its valuable mosaics and chitectural style that developed in Ser- tacky looking faux-medieval setting. The festival aims to have something budding neuroscientists can experi- Festival looks at that may occur within the next 250 million years. This likes), and vegetarian. Five to derful landscape of the region. sculptures, most of which are on dis- bia just before the battle of Kosovo in for everyone: artificial intelligence, as- ment in their own backyard with easily ten individuals are permitted year’s Science Festival looks at what Pangaea Ultima, hy- Vlach traditional costumes, Romani- play in the Museum in Zajecar, about 10 1389. Manasija was founded by Lord MODERN VLACH the role of science tronomy, boats of the future, as well as accessible equipment. pothesised by geologist Christopher Scotese, might look per team, with one desig- an language and elaborate rituals, many kilometres to the east. Mounds contain- (or 'Despot') Stefan Lazarevic, as a cul- MAUSOLEUMS learning about energy and ways to save Weaving in the world of art, artist Bo- like and what the future holds for the Earth. nated as the main cook, and related to the dead, still inspire wild sto- ing the graves of Galerius and his moth- tural and spiritual centre of the Serbian in the future of the vital elements such as water, flora and gomir Doringer and his team from the the entry (without the sup- ries in Serbia. Indeed, any mention of er Romula, after whom the palace was Despotate, the last Serbian state before Eastern Serbia's unique funerary fauna. University of Vienna will hold a work- WANT TO FLY A PLANE? plies) costs RSD 2500 (~EUR Eastern Serbia will inevitably bring up named, can be found on a hill above the the Ottoman invasion of 1459. Despot culture is best evidenced by large mau- planet. Besides looking into the future, the shop to reveal the hidden secrets of 20) per team for classic and 'Vlach magic', which is greatly feared complex. Interestingly, these mounds Lazarevic ruled from Belgrade until his soleums built on its village cemeteries. Science Festival also plans to dip into magnetism and show how science can Demonstrating the potential of solar energy, organisers non-standard category, while and admired by the superstitious. are where Galerius was deified in an death in 1427. These mausoleums, which resemble the past. have a role in the creative process. say you can power a plane from sunlight. And apparently entering in the vegetar- The region's canyons and caves have elaborate ritual, making this hill above The beautiful sandstone monas- houses, are where the family of the de- Ivana NIKOLIC “In order for us to understand the And if that wasn’t enough, students you don’t need to be a science wizard to do it. ian version costs RSD 500 also served to maintain its reputation Felix Romuliana the birthplace of the tery church, dedicated to the Holy ceased spend time and leave gifts, such future, we need to know the past,” said of Belgrade’s Faculty of Chemistry will (~EUR 4). Sign up by October for mystery. These natural wonders last Roman god. Trinity, is decorated with priceless as cigarettes or TVs, to help them in the he 12th installment of Bel- Nenad Zaric, the main programme co- stage a play showcasing how chemis- 31 to reserve your spot in the also offered shelter to many outlaws frescos which include depictions of afterlife. grade’s popular Science ordinator. “So there will be several time- try can be fun, but also dangerous if not competition by contacting or 'hajduks' for which the region was Felix Romuliana is open every day Holy Warriors and Despot Stefan. It Although most of these house-like Festival begins on Novem- machines at the Festival, which will treated with care. [email protected] for famous during Ottoman rule, while between 8am and 7pm. also contains his tomb. In addition to mausoleums are of recent origin, they ber 29 with a focus on the bring us back to different epochs,” as far Non-Serbian speakers, fear not – ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ any additional details. Those rich gold deposits around the Pek river the church, the Manasija complex also are contemporary expressions of an- future of planet Earth. back as the dinosaurs. many of the experiments are conduct- ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” attracted a fair share of adventurers RAJAC WINE CELLARS contains the remains of a large refecto- cient Vlach customs, which required TMore than 600 scientists are ex- ed 'one-on-one’ and translators will be who aren’t interested in RESTAURANT KOVAČ throughout history. AND CEMETERY ry which served the monastery during families to take care of their relatives pected to take part in the festival, which BACKYARD NEUROSCIENCE on hand. cooking on their day off can modern ethno restaurant Unfortunately, despite its natural medieval times. even in the afterlife. In the old days, runs until December 2 in halls 3, 3A and Last year’s festival was seen by more enjoy sarma prepared by the and cultural riches, Eastern Serbia's in- One of the most impressive displays A visit to Manasija isn't complete those customs included organising 5 of the Belgrade Fair under the slogan Of particular interest may be the than 30,000 people and organisers hope organisers (if you come early accessibility makes it one of the least of Serbian folk architecture, 'Rajacke without a walk on the fortification walls weddings for the deceased if they died 'The Land of the Future’. Scientific-fantasy stage at Hall 5, which to top that this year. The first three days enough – they sell out fast!) explored and developed regions in the pivnice', are a complex of several dozen and its 11 towers from which you can unmarried. Organisers say the festival will “re-ex- will host a number of international ris- are so-called 'school-days’ with groups of or a variety of other activities country. Its economic problems have wine cellars built between the early 19th admire the beauty of the complex and These strange structures in villages amine the future of our planet, but also ing stars in science and their startling school pupils, while Sunday, December at the Sarmijada, such as a been exacerbated by the collapse since Century and World War II above the vil- its hilly surroundings. around Eastern Serbia are slowly be- offer scientific, ecological and sustain- innovations and experiments. 2 is a family day, so be sure to book your crafts fair, workshops and the 1990s of many state companies lage of Rajac. Rajac is a four-hour drive coming popular sites for taphophiles. able solutions for generations to come.” From the Czech Republic, UDiF, tickets and bring the whole family. special programming for chil- headquartered there and the protract- from Belgrade and half an hour from The most impressive mausoleums are “Through interactive settings, scien- or the Amazing Theatre of Physics, Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 dren, music, and a cabbage- ed crisis of the Bor copper mine, one of Negotin, the centre of this wine-grow- Manasija can be visited every day to be found in Osnic by Boljevac and tific show programmes and workshops will demonstrate how physics can be For more information visit www.restorankovac.com grating contest. the largest in Europe. This means that ing region. between 8pm and 4pm. Trnovce by Petrovac na Mlavi. adapted to visitors of all ages, we want brought to life with ordinary house- www.festivalnauke.org. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 13 EXPATS' CORNER ARTS

Ilija Soskic Retrospective For African Students in Belgrade, at Museum of Contemporary Art

The first retrospective Racism is an Issue Arts in brief exhibition of the great Ilija Soskic, one of the most important representatives of conceptual art of the former Yugoslavia, is open at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Belgrade (Usce 10) and the Museum of Con- temporary Art of Vojvodina (Dunavska 37, Novi Sad). The exhibition, entitled Action Forms and curated by Zoran Eric and Nebojsa Milenkovic, opened on October 12 and will remain on display until December 24. Tickets cost 300 dinars (~2.5 euros).

Multimedia Exhibition: Iceland in Belgrade

A multimedia exhibition inspired by Iceland and sup- ported by Icelandair opens on October 29 at KC Grad (Brace Krsmanovic 4). Artist Katarina Simovic combines photography and video art to share her view of this unique country. The exhibition will be run for two weeks. Entrance is free.

Women of Dada – Performance Art

A performance art piece dedicated to the underrep- resented and today largely unknown women of the Dada art movement will open on November 1 at the Museum of Contemporary Art (Usce 10), at 8 pm. Put together by the alternative theatre group Dah Teatar, African students started coming to Belgrade when Tito forged connections with African leaders like Ethiopia’s Haile Selassie. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/ Nikola_pu tickets for the event will cost 600 dinars (~5 euros) and "I ignored them because you cannot history of foreign rule in the Balkans and Kamau's juxtaposition of xenophobia in particular, but they say less about Despite a decades- act as museum passes for argue with such people," Ghata said, the colonisation of Africa. Yugoslavia with the colonisers' attitudes intolerance towards other ethnic groups. the evening. long tradition of recalling a tram ride when a group The African students, however, came towards Africans as "absurd". A global study entitled Project “Transit” by Christian Petzold, is getting rave reviews and will compete at this year’s Berlin International Film Festival. Photo: Courtesy of Free Zone Festival of teenage boys launched into a as a surprise to most Yugoslavs. Interracial relationships between Implicit found last year that Serbians Serbian and African students chauvinist tirade against foreigners. "People thought we were covered foreign and local students were have least negative associations Given the small number of people in paint," David Bangoura, a former controversial: a 1971 study found that with black people in the whole of Croatian Folk coming to Belgrade, of colour in Serbia today, the issue of student from Guinea who settled in only 12 per cent of Yugoslavs were Europe, but it was based on voluntary Ensembles at race is not widely debated; it makes Zagreb, was quoted as saying in a 2007 ready to accept a marriage between a participation in an online survey in Free Zone Puts Spotlight on Kombank Hall those now studying headlines usually only when black article in Croatian Nacional. family member and a black person. English, suggesting that the results football players become the target of With a greater influx of students in Mixed marriages captured the are likely skewed towards the higher A rare treat for all traditional in the city say they racist abuse by Serbian fans. the 1960s, urban Yugoslavs grew more public's imagination, however. In educated. Memories and Disobedience folk music enthusiasts will But that was not always the case. accustomed to foreigners. Yet, poverty, 1972 popular Slovenian author Anton Libyan medical student Rahma, take place at the Kombank still encounter The question of race and racism has, competition for resources and housing Ingolic's published "Onduo, moj crni who asked for her surname not to be Hall (Decanska 14) on No- in fact, been present in Serbia since the stirred racism towards the foreign fant" (Onduo, my black boyfriend), used, said that while Serbian university exclusive Serbian premieres. The or- simultaneously at the Kombank Hall in ing countries as a part of its own cul- vember 1, when the Serbian racism. 1950s, when thousands of African and scholarship holders, whose relative an eroticised love story between a students were, in her experience, Over 50 films that ganisers say the themes that will be Belgrade and at the Cultural Centres of tural and identitary space. A space of Folk Song and Dance En- Asian students attended university in wealth was a source of envy for many Yugoslav woman and a Sudanese open to all people regardless of race engage with con- highlighted this year will be memories, Novi Sad and Nis. closeness and freedom.” semble “Kolo” and the Croa- socialist Yugoslavia, a by-product of students. student. or religion, xenophobic attitudes run facing the past, civil and personal diso- Another international film of note He selected “Srbenka” by Nebojsa tian Folk Dance and Song Mitjo VAULASVIRTA Josip Broz Tito's leading role in the Non- Public reactions to Africans students While the vast majority of African deep in the less educated segments of temporary social bedience and repression, as well as the that will receive its Serbian premiere at Slijepcevic, “Na Vodi” (On the Watter) Ensemble “Lado” will join Aligned Movement. were in sharp contrast to the official students returned home after the population. recent rise of the far-right in Europe and Free Zone is “Transit” by German direc- by Goran Devic and “Occupation 1968” forces in a unique display of ieu Merci Ghata policy, said Milorad Lazic, a PhD student completing university, a few, like "It's a problem when people who phenomena will across the globe. tor Christian Petzold, which is getting from Slovakia. Balkan heritage. Tickets for from the Democratic RACISM A 'BIG PART' OF at the George Washington University, Ghanaian-born doctor Peter Bossman, don't know us judge us because we Free Zone was founded in 2005 rave reviews and will compete at this “Occupation 1968” is a documen- the show are on sale at 600 Republic of Congo AFRICAN STUDENTS' who has written about foreign students who successfully ran for mayor in the wear a headscarf," 20-year-old Rahma be shown in Bel- to promote, discuss and understand year’s Berlin International Film Festi- tary about the Soviet-led occupation of dinars (~5 euros). was exuberant when YUGOSLAV EXPERIENCE in Yugoslavia. Slovenian seaside city of Piran in 2010, said. Rahma said she and her sister contemporary social phenomena and val. Czechoslovakia in 1968. he learned in 2011 "Racism wasn't the totality of what had long careers in the region. sometimes heard unfriendly remarks grade, Novi and global issues, providing Serbian film The plot follows a man who leaves “Srbenka”, which Jergovic called as that he had won a Yugoslavia, having fallen out with African students experienced in The number of African students fell on the street and in public transport. Nis. fans with a rare opportunity to see so- France after the Nazi invasion and takes “one of the most important documen- Installation Art by scholarshipD from the Serbian and the Soviet Union in 1948, developed Yugoslavia, but it was a big part of it," considerably after the bloody collapse Halla Hachemi, a 21-year-old medical cially and politically engaged cinema- over the identity of a deceased author tary films recorded in the region since Dusica Drazic and Congolese governments to study in a program of technical assistance Lazic said. of Yugoslavia. According to the Ministry school student from Algeria, said that tography from around the world. whose papers he has in his possession. the 1990s,” is about the tragic fate of a Wim Janssen Belgrade. for developing countries, including of Education, Serbia last year gave out in her experience racist incidents were David GALIC Opening the festival will be “Leto” He then meets a desperate woman, try- Serbian child named Aleksandra Zec, "I was very happy because I was generous scholarships for students BEHIND THE 74 scholarships to students from Africa not common, but they did occur. (“Summer”) by Russian director Kirill ing to find her missing husband – who who was killed in Zagreb in 1991. The Salon of the Museum of going to start a new life," he recalled of from then recently independent OFFICIAL IDEOLOGY – a fraction of the number of stipends "Once, a stranger began cursing he 14th edition of Serbia’s Serebrennikov, a biographical film turns out to be the late author he is im- “Na Vodi” Jergovic describes as “a the day his scholarship was announced African and Asian states. during the heyday of Yugoslav higher me in a public bus, and the other annual Free Zone film fes- about the youth of Viktor Tsoi, a crucial personating. film about the decay of the world in Contemporary Art (Pariska in Congo's capital, Kinshasa. The foreign student population in The discovery that the reality of race education. passengers intervened to stop him," tival will be held this year member of Leningrad’s underground One guest curator of note at Free which we used to live, and the transi- 14) is hosting an installation Today, Ghata, 30, holds a Master's Yugoslavia grew from a few dozen relations in Yugoslavia did not live up Hachemi recalled. To Hachemi, from November 7 to 12. As rock scene in the 1980s. Zone this year is a Bosnian author liv- tion into a new world.” by Dusica Drazic and Wim degree in ecology from the University in the mid-1950s to more than seven to the socialist ideology was a surprise LACK OF AWARENESS however, of greater concern is what the festival mission has The movie, selected to compete at ing and working in Zagreb, Miljenko Tickets for the opening night and the Jannsen, consisting of a of Belgrade and prides himself on his thousand towards the end of the next to some government officials, who, she sees as a lack of awareness of Talways to been to bring cinema to the the 2018 Cannes Film Festival, focuses Jergovic, who chose three films for this premiere of “Leto” are on sale in Bel- bronze replica of the projec- command of the Serbian language, decade, centred on the major cities, according to Lazic paid little heed to As the country has a small immigrant other cultures, resulting in the fact she people – no matter where they live – it’s on one summer in the life of Tsoi in the year’s festival. grade at the Kombank Hall box office tor model Iskra NP-21 onto which he learned in order to study at including Belgrade. African students' complaints of racism. population, there is little data on racism often finds herself having to explain to no surprise that this year’s program will early 1980s spent recording his first al- Regarding the three films that he and at all Eventim ticketing locations which 35mm colour film is the faculty. Officially, Yugoslavia stood strongly Lazic cites one instance when Novak against people of colour in Serbia today. Belgraders Africa's ethnic and racial be featured simultaneously in venues bum and listening to music by the “ide- chose Jergovic told local media station and cost 500 dinars (4.2 euros). For projected and depicting the Ghata says he now hopes to find a job, against racism and colonialism; Yugoslav Pribicevic, an activist from the League of Most studies, which are based on the diversity. Novi Sad and Nis as well as Belgrade, as ological enemies” of the Soviet Union at B92: “I wanted to say something about more information on the rest of the pro- process of its own mak- but he concedes that incidents of racism revolutionary authors like Oskar Davico Communist Youth of Yugoslavia, declined general population's perception of "When people hear I'm from Algeria, has been done since 2013. the time, rockers like Lou Reed, David myself and the way I see freedom and gramme, as well as locations and prices, ing. The exhibition run from and derogatory remarks directed at even renounced their "whiteness" and to run Kimiti Kamau's article on racism racism, have documented widespread they often ask me why I'm not black," More than 50 films will be shown Bowie and Iggy Pop. The movie will the communities between which I live visit the festival official website: http:// October 19 to 29. Entrance him have left him apprehensive. sought to draw parallels between the against African students in 1963, citing discrimination against the Roma in she said. over the week, 40 of which will be premiere on the first night of the festival in Croatia and seeing these neighbour- freezonebelgrade.org/ is free. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 15 GOING OUT WHAT'S ON Belgrade’s Best Cocktail Bars CLUBBING From romantic, Most people agree that Kultura Bar is the best place in Vracar to get upscale venues to cocktails, and connoisseurs say the bar staff have a very specific and original AND LIVE MUSIC bars to get wasted way of mixing even the most standard popular cocktails. in, here are five of Another cool thing about Kultura Bar FRIDAY OCTOBER 26 • Minsk /US/ & Zatokrev /CH/, FRIDAY NOVEMBER 02 the best places in is that it also offers many non-alcoholic Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 8pm cocktails, so you don't have to miss • Bolesna Stenad, Navy ne • Rober Glasper Belgrade • Elemental, SubBeerni centar, town to sip those out on all the fantastic tastes if you obecava, Divlje svinje, SubBeerni Experiment, Soul Society, Knez Cetinjska 15, 9pm don't feel like working up a buzz on a Centar, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Miletina 2, 10pm • RHCP Tribute, Fest Club, Gradski particular night. • 34th Belgrade Jazz Festival, • Lezz Go Band, Bitefartcafe, park 2, 10pm oh-so-colourful different locations Mitropolita Petra 8, 11pm • Dr Project Point Black Blues BITTERS BAR • Vizelj + Klotljudi + proto tip, • Hose Coco, Muha Bar, Kralja Petra Band, Soul Society, Knez Miletina and sophisticated- Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm 18, 9pm (KAPETAN MISINA 16) 2, 10pm • Blizzard Wizard // Black Sabbath • Kezz x Trifun, Grad Cultural • BIKINI specijal #1: DJ Marcelle looking drinks. Tribute, Fest Club, Gradski park 2, Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm /Another Nice Mess, NL / Another great Dorcol neighbour- 10pm • Elena Colombi (NTS, London), Jahmoni, Grad Cultural Center, hood bar, Bitters Bar is the place to go if • Lady Jelena and Band, Soul Putnik, Drugstore, Bulevar Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm David GALIC you would rather avoid the big crowds Society, Knez Miletina 2, 10pm Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • Henning Baer (Grounded , Bozidarac, Radoslava at Bar Central. The bar was report- • 80s Live • Trole & Vlada Russ / Marko Theory / Manhigh, DE), Grujica 3, 8pm Milosavljevic, Club 20/44, Usce ired of getting beer edly opened by a couple of bartenders Drugstore, Bulevar Despota • Midnight Orient w/ As Smooth bb, 11pm Stefana 115, 11pm spilled on your shoes who'd honed their craft at Bar Central As / BTCHN / Simply_pierre, • Psychedelic Saturday, Imago • CHV, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 8pm by hipsters every time and decided to strike out on their own. Grad Cultural Center, Brace Club, Decanska 14, 11pm • BombON, DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm you go out? Maybe it's At Bitters Bar, you're basically Krsmanovica 4, 11pm • Basic D.O.D, Ljubimac, Cetinjska • Friday RNB, Brankow, time to try cocktails getting everything you would get at • Tijana T All Night Long, Drugstore, 15, 8pm Crnogorska 12, 11.30pm Tinstead. Obviously, not all cocktails Bar Central, but without the crowds. Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • Cherry on Top, DOT, Francuska • Beyond 2000, Strafta, Admirala are created equal and there's a huge The cocktails are incredible and the • Rudhman, Kaaldrma bar, 6, 11pm Skadarska 40, 8pm • Saturday Fever, Brankow, Geprata 14, 11pm difference between tossing back cheap presentation is probably the best in KOLARAC • Jonny Rock (Disco Hamam) & Ali Crnogorska 12, 11.30pm • Mash up, Mr. Stefan Braun, screwdrivers and indulging in rich, the city. All of the bartenders are very Güney + Nikola Vemic, Club 20/44, • Rndmslv, Club Secer, Svetogorska Nemanjina 4, 11pm complex cocktails made by people who friendly and helpful and ready to help Usce bb, 11pm 17, 11pm PROGRAMME are actually schooled in serving them. you select the perfect cocktail for every • Free Psychedelic Friday, Imago • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva SATURDAY NOVEMBER 03 Cocktail lovers won't have a hard occasion. Club, Decanska 14, 11pm 44, 11pm time finding a great bar in just about any • Damjanov Zelenko, Ljubimac, • Sljokanje, Strafta, Admirala • Elemental, SubBeerni centar, Cocktail master at work in Docrol’s Bitters Bar. Photo: Courtesy of Bitters Bar Cetinjska 15, 9pm central Belgrade neighbourhood. But if BEOGRADSKI KOKTEL KLUB Cetinjska 15, 8pm Geprata 14, 11pm • BombON, DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm • MadHouse, Martinez, • The Nightingales, Elektropionir, you're picky and demand the best, here Shootiranje have a "12 shots for 1,000 Bar Central was opened by the Naturally, Bar Central is always busy, (MILUTINA BOJICA 2) • Friday RNB, Brankow, Crnogorska Karadjordjeva 46, 10pm Cetinjska 15, 9pm are five Belgrade cocktail bars that set a dinars" promotion. If you go over the Bartenders' Association of Serbia, so it's a good idea to call in a reservation 12, 11.30pm • Najda – Smak Tribute, Fest Club, FRIDAY OCTOBER 26 THURSDAY NOVEMBER 01 very high standard. weekend, expect it to be very full; which means all of the bartenders are if you want a seat, especially at the This is the newest cocktail bar on • Me, myself & Iron, Club Secer, SUNDAY OCTOBER 28 Gradski park 2, 10pm Concert Hall, 8pm Concert Hall, 8pm it's one of the most popular "starter" certified cocktail masters. It also serves weekend. the scene and definitely a rising star Svetogorska 17, 11pm • Ethno Jazz Orchestra, Soul Belgrade Philharmonic: Love BUNT Festival 6.0 SHOOTIRANJE bars for weekend clubbers who plan as a school for people who want to learn on it. The Belgrade Cocktail Club has • Funk Technik Group, Gajba, • Jason Derulo, L77, Marcus & Society, Knez Miletina 2, 10pm Conductor: Daniel Raiskin Chamber Music Orchestra Muzikon (GAVRILA PRINCIPA 7) on visiting the all-night clubs in the how to make cocktails. It is definitely KULTURA BAR more of an upscale vibe than most Karadjordjeva 44/II, 11pm Martinus, Stark Arena, Bulevar • Krug EKV, Bozidarac, Radoslava Soloist: Simone Lamsma, violin Conductor: Bettina Schmitt Savamala neighbourhood. not cheap, by Belgrade standards, and (KRALJA MILUTINA 4) other cocktail bars. It's all about leather • Beyond 2000, Strafta, Admirala Arsenija Carnojevica 58, 8pm Grujica 3, 8pm Programme: L. van Beethoven, B. Soloists: Stevan Jovanovic, double Geprata 14, 11pm • 34th Belgrade Jazz Festival, Bartok, C. von Weber, R. Strauss bass, Una Stanic, violin Shootiranje is Belgrade's first shot bar you'll have to spend five euros and up seating, dark wood furniture and low • Altered state pres. Kosmos, different locations Nevena Jeremic, NMNJ, Production: Belgrade Philharmonic Concertmaster: Vesna Stankovic and a good place to kick off any long BAR CENTRAL for a drink here. Situated in the heart of the Vracar lights – perfect for romantic evenings SATURDAY OCTOBER 27 • Keziah Jones, Bitefartcafe, Grad Cultural Center, Brace More information on: 011/26 30 744 Programme: S. Koussevitzky, F. Schubert night out. The bar offers more than 80 (KRALJA PETRA 59) If you have no idea what to pick from area, Kultura is a classic, timeless out. Mitropolita Petra 8, 11pm Krsmanovica 4, 11pm different shots and about 50 cocktails the almost 100 listed cocktails, tell one Belgrade bar with an old-school vibe Most importantly, the bar staff are • YU Grupa, Fest Club, Gradski park • Djordje Obradovic Trio, Muha SATURDAY OCTOBER 27 • Digital Chemistry Night, Imago FRIDAY NOVEMBER 02 as well. If you're looking for really short This is where it all starts when it of the bartenders what you like and that's perfect for people who want a tremendous. They not only make 2, 10pm Bar, Kralja Petra 18, 7pm Club, Decanska 14, 11pm Concert Hall, 11am drinks that are exotic and tasty, this is comes to cocktails in Belgrade. Located they'll make something perfect for you. small, intimate bar with a great cocktail great cocktails but make everyone feel • Electric Blues Night, Ulica Club, • Por Que No, Mr. Stefan Braun, • Divlje Palme, Ljubimac, Cetinjska Small School of Manners: How to Concert Hall, 8pm Balkanska 13, 10pm the place to go. in the heart of central Belgrade, this And, if you don't know what you like, list. The bar itself is pretty small, but it comfortable and at home. Give this bar Nemanjina 4, 11pm 15, 8pm Listen to a Concert Belgrade Philharmonic: Ascension 1 • 34th Belgrade Jazz Festival, Host: Milos Milovanovic Conductor: Gabriel Feltz If you're looking to get wasted modern cocktail bar is easily the most try the Mai Thai. It is supposed to be does have an excellent outdoor seating a try this weekend – before the rest of • Disco Not DISCO / Dj Brka / Filio, different locations MONDAY OCTOBER 29 Club 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm Admission: RSD 200 Programme: АA. Bruckner on a budget, Wednesday nights at popular in town – and with good reason. second to none. area. Belgrade finds out how great it is! Production: Belgrade • Cherry on Top, DOT, Francuska • 34th Belgrade Jazz Festival, Concert Hall, 8pm Philharmonic 6, 11pm different locations Big Band More information on: • Saturday Fever, Brankow, RTS Music Production 011/26 30 744 • Above Balkan RnB, Mr. Stefan Production: Crnogorska 12, 11.30pm Jason Derulo to Elena Colombi Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva SUNDAY OCTOBER 28 SATURDAY NOVEMBER 03 44, 11pm Play Stark Arena in Drugstore TUESDAY OCTOBER 30 Concert Hall, 11am Concert Hall, 8pm • Not Your Saturday Baby, Mr. Kolarac Podium of Chamber Music RTS Symphony Orchestra and Choir Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm ne of the biggest pop music acts in the world right his October, the folks behind Putnik, a brand new club night • Peter Bence, Kombank Dvorana, Jazzy Bach Soloists: Natalija Mladenovic, piano • MadHouse, Martinez, now, Jason Derulo, will be coming to Belgrade’s concept at Drugstore, are bringing one of the most excit- Decanska 14, 8.30pm Production: Music Centre Sofija Pizurica, soprano Karadjordjeva 46, 10pm Admission free Ljubomir Popovic, tenor Stark Arena (Bulevar Arsenija Carnojevica ing electronic music acts on the scene right now, Elena • Malinada, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Nebojsa Babic, baritone 58) on Sunday, October 28. The internation- Colombi. The Italian-born, London-based DJ was vot- Bojan Sudjic O T • Dizel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, SUNDAY NOVEMBER 04 MONDAY OCTOBER 29 Conductor: al superstar, who you probably know from smash hits ed one of the top five acts at the prestigious Dekmantel Festival, Programme: S. Hristic, C. Debussy, FREE COPY Nemanjina 4, 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm C. Gounod like “Tip Toe,” “Swalla” and “If I’m Lucky,” as well as the and this is just one in the long series of industry accolades she • Knower, Bitefartcafe, Mitropolita Academic Accordion Orchestra Fifa World Championship anthem “Colors,” Derulo al- has received over the last few years. WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 31 Petra 8, 10pm Kragujevac WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 07 ready has a number of platinum singles under his belt This will be the second time Elena is playing in Belgrade, but • Por Que No, Mr. Stefan Braun, Production: Kragujevac Music and millions upon millions of views on his YouTube the first time in the notorious “Techno Cathedral” of Drugstore, Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. • Halloween Fuse, Fest Club, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Centre Music Gallery, 6pm channel. which is the premier venue for these types of sounds in the city. Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Gradski park 2, 10pm Recital of French Music Tickets prices for the concert range from 2,990 dinars The party on Saturday, October 27 at Drugstore (Bulevar Despota • The Rumjacks, Bozidarac, MONDAY NOVEMBER 05 WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 31 Soloist: Ernest So, piano Production: Music Centre (25 euros) for the floor and 3,590 dinars (30 euros) for seats Stefana 115) starts at 11 pm. Ticket information has not yet been an- Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Radoslava Grujica 3, 8pm • Hashima, Dorcol Platz, Dobracina • Zelisko (ESP) and Anne Marie Music Gallery, 6pm Admission free up in the stands and 3,990 dinars (33 euros) for fan pit seats. nounced, but they should cost about 700 dinars (6 euros). Editor in Chief: Marija Ristic Danka Nikolic, viola (SRB), Polet, Cetinjska 15, 8pm 59b, 9pm Production: Music Centre Concert Hall, 8pm BIRN editorial team: • Halloween Night, Imago Club, • Vesna Petkovic feat. Who Mad Admission free Philharmonie der Nationen Marcus Tanner Decanska 14, 11pm Dog, Soul Society, Knez Miletina Soloist: Ivo Pogorelic, piano • Creepy Dance, DOT, Francuska 2, 10pm Concert Hall, 8pm Conductor: Justus Frantz belgradeinsighteditor@birn. 6, 11pm • Above Balkan RnB, Mr. Stefan Steinway Concerts 2018/2019 Programme: S. Rachmaninoff, N. eu.com • Mastering w/ Gramophonedzie Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Lucas Debargue, piano Rimsky-Korsakov & Oysha, Ludost Bar, Programme: F. Chopin, J. S. Bach, L. Production: Music Centre Sales & Marketing: Marija Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm TUESDAY NOVEMBER 06 van Beethoven Admission: Production: Piano Land RSD 3000, 3500, 4000 Petrovic • Candy Shop, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Malinada, Ludost Bar, +381 11 4030 302 Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm [email protected] THURSDAY NOVEMBER 01 WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 07 Subscription & Distribution: • Fuzzbox, Fest Club, Gradski park Underground 2, 10pm • Mastering w/ Gramophonedzie Jonny Rock and Friends at 20/44 Electronic Music at KC Grad Goran Knezevic • J.R. August + choir, Grad Cultural & Oysha, Ludost Bar, +381 63 562 265 Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 8pm Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Ali Guney and Nikola Vemic are already You like house, tech-house and electro, • Ana Curcin and the Changes, well known and loved by Belgrade but you wouldn’t mind sounds that [email protected] Cheers for Fears party Soul Society, Knez Miletina 2, THURSDAY NOVEMBER 08 clubbers, especially regular patrons of are a bit more challenging and less Post-Metal Treat in Elektropionir Sonja Sajzor’s (Drag) Halloween Party at Dogma Tap Room Printing: POLITIKA stamparija 10pm the 20/44 boat on the Sava River (Usce commercialized? The good news for • Thursday Delight, Brankow, • Ljudi u Glavi, Fest Club, Gradski Fans of post-metal and sludgy, psyche- bb). On Friday, October 26, they will everyone wishing to explore deeper lay- Looking for a fun night out to get into Dogma Tap Room are organising a d.o.o. Crnogorska 12, 11.30pm park 2, 10pm delic riffs should not miss a double-bill open and close a party headlined by ers of these genres is that Altered State the Halloween mood? Head over to Club Halloween party in their post-industrial ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade • We Are Old School w/ Mooka, • Thursday Delight, Brankow, on Saturday, October 27, at Elektropi- London house and disco heavyweight is throwing a party at KC Grad (Brace Mercury (Usce BB) on Saturday, October premises in Cukarica on October 31 from Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, Crnogorska 12, 11.30pm onir (Cetinjska 15) featuring Minsk from Jonny Rock. Expect classic Chicago Krsmanovic 4) on November 3, featuring 27 to hear DJ/artist Sonja Sajzor spin hits 7.30pm onwards. The party will also be Insight 10pm • We Are Old School w/ Mooka, Chicago, teaming up with Zatokrev from house, underground disco and a little Nevena Jeremic, NMNJ and Kosmos (Kid from all eras all night long. There will the perfect occasion to taste their new COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 • SkyHigh, Mr. Stefan Braun, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, Switzerland. If you’re a fan of bands like bit of Turkish psychedelia thrown into Kimi, Doo and SMT#ng). Tickets prices also be drag performances by Sonja her- pumpkin-laced beer. Fancy dress is Nemanjina 4, 11pm 10pm Neurosis, this is a pre-Halloween treat. the mix. Tickets prices have not been will be announced soon, expected them self and Haus of K.G. (Karma Geddonia mandatory, but they are promising that Circulation: 2,000 • Flashdance, Martinez, • Flashdance, Martinez, Tickets cost 1,200 dinars (10 euros) at announced but should be around 700 to be about 500 dinars (4 euros) at the and Golden Orb). Tickets will cost 300 your awkwardness will be gone after a Karadjordjeva 46, 10pm Karadjordjeva 46, 10pm the door. dinars (6 euros). door. dinars (3 euros) at the door. few beers. Entrance is free. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 26 - November 8, 2018 ARTS AND CULTURE

THURSDAY NOVEMBER 01 WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 31 • Exhibition: Brigita Antoni, THURSDAY NOVEMBER 01 Opera, Ballet and Classical Jovana Vujanovic, Teodora • Bunt 6.0 Festival (opening), • The Nineties (Milenkovic), Nikicevic, Umetnicki proctor U10, • International Biennale of FRIDAY OCTOBER 26 Chamber Music Orchestra National Theatre in Belgrade, Kosovke devojke 3, 12pm Lithography, Parobrod Cultural Muzikon, Ilija M. Kolarac Francuska 3, 8.30pm • Marko Brecelj, Polet, Cetinjska 15, Center, Kapetan Misina 6a, 7pm • Belgrade Philharmonic Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm • A Play About Mirjana and Those 8pm • Who is making our clothes?, Orchestra, Daniel Raiskin • Ballet: Festival of Contemporary Around Her (Martinic), Yugoslav Dorcol Platz, Dobracina 59b, 7pm (conductor), Simone Lamsma Dance and Performance 2018, Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, SATURDAY OCTOBER 27 (violin), Ilija M. Kolarac Magacin u Kraljevica Marka, 8pm FRIDAY NOVEMBER 02 Endowment, Studentski trg 5, Kraljevica Marka 4-8, 8pm • Festival of Serbian SF Film (SFFF), 8pm THURSDAY NOVEMBER 01 Studentski Kulturni Centar, Kralja • Exhibition: 1868 - 1944 - 2018, FRIDAY NOVEMBER 02 Milana 48, 5pm Tihomir Djordjevic, The Serbian SATURDAY OCTOBER 27 • Why Does Herr R. Run Amok • Exhibition: 57th October Salon, Academy of Sciences and Arts, • Belgrade Philharmonic (Fassbinder), Yugoslav Drama different locations Kneza Mihaila 35, 4pm • Opera: La Fanciulla del West Orchestra, Gabriel Feltz Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Poetry Live! The Evening of (Puccini), Live Broadcasting (conductor), Ilija M. Kolarac Kayoko Yamasaki, Ilija M. Kolarac SATURDAY NOVEMBER 03 Metropolitan Opera New York, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm MONDAY NOVEMBER 05 Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7pm Usce Cineplexx, Bulevar Mihajla • Majca fest, Dorcol Platz, • Exhibition: Tamara Cvetic, Pupina 4, 6.45pm WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 07 • King of Betajnova (Cankar), Dobracina 59b, 12pm Stambol Gate Gallery, Kalemegdan, • Small School of Bonton, Ilija M. Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja 5pm Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg • Ernest So (piano), Ilija M. Kolarac Milana 50, 8pm SUNDAY OCTOBER 28 • Exhibition: About Animals and 5, 11am Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Humans, Ethnographic Museum, • Opera: The Marriage of Figaro • Ivo Pogorelic and Philharmonie TUESDAY NOVEMBER 06 • Exhibition: 57th October Salon, Studentski trg 13, 5pm (Mozart), National Theatre in der Nationen, Ilija M. Kolarac different locations Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm • Othello (Shakespeare), Yugoslav • Polish Film Festival “Visla”, Grad SUNDAY NOVEMBER 04 Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, Cultural Center, Brace Krsmanovica SUNDAY OCTOBER 28 • 8pm 4, 8pm • Audio Market, Dorcol Platz, Theatre Dobracina 59b, 12pm • Ballet: Dictionary of the Khazars • MONDAY OCTOBER 29 • Exhibition: This is Us, – Dream Hunters (Pavic), National FRIDAY OCTOBER 26 Exhibition and Events Ethnographic Museum, Studentski Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • Society of Fantasy Fans "Lazar trg 13, 4pm 7.30pm • The Importance of Being Earnest FRIDAY OCTOBER 26 Komarcic”, Dom Omladine, (Wilde), National Theatre in Makedosnka 22, 7pm MONDAY NOVEMBER 05 MONDAY OCTOBER 29 Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm • Conference “What Kind of • Cycle: Feminism in Serbia – • Free Exchange Hotel (Feydeau), Library Do We Need”, National Theory, Research, Creativity, Ilija • Exhibition: Boogie – Something • Radoslava Vorgic-Zurzovan Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Library of Serbia, Skerliceva 1, 9am M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski , Else, Laufer Gallery, Svetozara (soprano), Vesna Milikic (piano) Milana 50, 8pm • Belgrade Book Fair, Belgrade Fair, trg 5, 6pm SANU Gallery, Knez Mihailova 35, Radica 4, 5pm • Till death Do Us Part (Furlan), Bulevar Vojvode Misica 14, 10am • Delicatessen Monday, Grad 6pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja • Festival of Serbian SF Film (SFFF), Cultural Center, Brace Krsmanovica TUESDAY NOVEMBER 06 • Academic Accordion Orchestra Milana 50, 8.30pm Studentski Kulturni Centar, Kralja 4, 7pm Kragujevac, Ilija M. Kolarac Milana 48, 5pm • Exhibition: Island in Belgrade, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm th • The relation between the SATURDAY OCTOBER 27 • Exhibition: 57 October Salon, Grad Cultural Center, Brace external and inner life of person, • Opera: Il Barberie di Seviglia different locations Krsmanovica 4, 8pm Dom Omladine, Makedosnka 22, (Rossini), National Theatre in • Imaginary Invalid (Moliere), • Cuban Movies Days, Yugoslav Film Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm 7pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Archive, Uzun Mirkova 1, 8pm TUESDAY OCTOBER 30 • Book Presentation “Mesavinar”, Milana 50, 8pm • Exhibition: Sculptures, Jovan TUESDAY OCTOBER 30 Polet, Cetinjska 15, 7pm Dostanic, Ilija M. Kolarac • Ceramic Workshop, Dorcol Platz, SUNDAY OCTOBER 28 Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7pm Dobracina 59b, 6pm • Ballet: Festival of Contemporary WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 07 • Cycle: Modern Mechanical • Exhibition: Nulla Dies Sine Linea, Dance and Performance 2018, • A Month in the Country Engineering, Ilija M. Kolarac Velimir Velja Vukicevic, Haos Magacin u Kraljevica Marka, • Exhibition: Accessory 12, (Turgenev), Yugoslav Drama Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Gallery, Dositejeva 3, 5pm Kraljevica Marka 4-8, 1pm Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Exhibition: Academy of Singidunum Gallery, Knez Mihailova 40, 7pm Fine Arts in Gdańsk, FLU Gallery, WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 31 WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 31 MONDAY OCTOBER 29 Knez Mihailova 53, 10am • Exhibition: Marko Celebonovic, SANU Gallery, Knez Mihailova 35, • Exhibition: Dzamonja, Sculpture • Lecture: Money Mystery – How 7pm • Trio Schallmoos, Nanni Malm • The Lower Depths (Gorky), and Projects, Arte Gallery, Money is Created, Ilija M. Kolarac • Remembering Yugoslavia, Dom (violin), Danka Nikolic (viola), National Theatre in Belgrade, Andricev venac 12, 10am Endowment, Studentski trg 5, Omladine, Makedonska 22, 7pm Sissy Schmidhuber (cello), Ilija M. Francuska 3, 8.30pm • Political Sociology of 7.30pm Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Cosmopolitism and • Days of Italian Contemporary Art 5, 6pm TUESDAY OCTOBER 30 Communitarianism – Seminar, in Serbia, Italian Cultural Center, THURSDAY NOVEMBER 08 • Lucas Debargue, Ilija M. Kolarac Institute of Philosophy and Social Kneza Milosa 56, 6.30pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, • The Possessed (Dostoyevsky), Theory, Kraljive Natalije 45/IV, 12pm • Book Presentation “Time • Book Presentation “Putovanja”, 8pm National Theatre in Belgrade, • Exhibition: Everybody Left the of Heroes” Zoran Paunovic, Zorica Zoja Mladenovic, Polet, • Ballet: Festival of Contemporary Francuska 3, 8.30pm Room and I Am Alone with an Studentski Grad Cultural Center, Cetinjska 15, 6.30pm Dance and Performance 2018, • The Glass Neck (Srbljanovic), Empty Glass in My Hand, Vuk Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm • Non-formal education - political Magacin u Kraljevica Marka, Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Vidor, November Gallery, Kursulina • Nordic Cinema, Krokodi Center, education, Dom Omladine, Kraljevica Marka 4-8, 1pm Milana 50, 8pm 22, 12pm Male stepenice 1a, 7.30pm Makedonska 22, 7pm