Forum : Vol. 30, No. 03 (Fall : 2006)
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University of South Florida Scholar Commons FORUM : the Magazine of the Florida Humanities Florida Humanities 10-1-2006 Forum : Vol. 30, No. 03 (Fall : 2006) Florida Humanities Council. Gary Ross Mormino Michael Gannon Viviana Carballo Chris Sherman See next page for additional authors Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/forum_magazine Recommended Citation Florida Humanities Council.; Mormino, Gary Ross; Gannon, Michael; Carballo, Viviana; Sherman, Chris; Oliver, Kitty; Pacheco, Ferdie; Mink, Nicolaas; and McGregory, Jerrilyn, "Forum : Vol. 30, No. 03 (Fall : 2006)" (2006). FORUM : the Magazine of the Florida Humanities. 42. https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/forum_magazine/42 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Florida Humanities at Scholar Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in FORUM : the Magazine of the Florida Humanities by an authorized administrator of Scholar Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Authors Florida Humanities Council., Gary Ross Mormino, Michael Gannon, Viviana Carballo, Chris Sherman, Kitty Oliver, Ferdie Pacheco, Nicolaas Mink, and Jerrilyn McGregory This article is available at Scholar Commons: https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/forum_magazine/42 2606-2001 Board of Directors David Colburn, Chair GAINESVILLE FROM THE DIRECTOR Frank Billingsle Vice Chair ORLANDO letter B. Lester Abberger TA L LAMAS S FF John Belohiavek TAMPA Rachel Blechman MIASSI Elaine Brown JACRSONVILLR Ian Caddie WINTER SPRINGS NE OF MY FAVORITE music writers, Peter William Carison TAMPA Guralnick, once said that writing about music was Jim Clark ORLANDO Q like dancing about architecture. I think that the same Brian Dassler FORT LAUDERDALE might be said for writing about food. It is hard to find words that Ena Din MIAMI convey the flavors and the smells, the feeling of home and hearth, evokes. Juan Carlos Espinosa MIAMI the rituals, traditions, and sense of place that food Nancy Fetterman P EN SAC 0 LA Few of our cultural traditions are as intimately practiced or Jeanne Godwin PENSACOLA dearly held as those having to do with food. Anthropologists Roger Kaufman TALLAHASSEE claim that food is the last vestige 0f "the old country" that Caren Lobo immigrants shed. Long after they quit speaking their native Kim Long NAPLES language, immigrants cling to their traditional foods. As writer Meredith Morris-Babb GAINESVIlLE Viviana Carhallo explains in this issue: "Food is a way of keeping Le.sley Northup MIAMI home close to one’s heart." Howard Pardue TALLAHASSEE I know that from my own experience. My mother held dear Jeffrey Sharkey TALLAHASSEE the recipes passed on by her Norwegian mother. My sisters and Rowena Stewart JACKSONVILLE I loved her lefie, a potato pancake that we would cover with Ellen Vinson PENSACOLA hurter and brown sugar; hut we abhorred her lutejisk, a soggy Jon Ward FORT PIERCE comhination of codfish and lye that one sister described as tasting like athletic socks soaked in bleach. Staff While ethnic comfort food is the last vestige 0f our cultural Janine Farver EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR identity that we discard, our first "taste" of a new culture Barbara Bahr TECHNOLOGY MANAGER frequently begins with food. Be it baldava or briyani, food Laurie Berlin DIRECTOR OF ADMINISTRATION connects us to a culture at its most universal level. Julie Henry Matus PROGRAM COORDINATOR, ROAD SCHOLARS Kitty Oliver describes how powerfully f00d can unite Karen Jackson PROGSSAM & FISCAL ASSISTANT us culturally in her article, Multicolored Memories. The Lisa Lennox RECEPTIONIST international potluck she descrihes, where guests share both their Susan Lockwood DIRECTOR OF GRANTS native f00d and poignant childhood memories, is a wonderful Carly Meek DEVELOPMENT ASSISTANT example of the sense of community that food can evoke. Brenda O’Hara FISCAL OFFICER We Floridians are fortunate to live in a state 0f rich cultural Barbara O’Reilley COMMUNICATIONS DIRRCTOR. EDITOR/FORUM diversity. The exotic array of ethnic food available in most Patricia Putman DEVELOPMENT OFFICER Florida cities gives new meaning to the term "melting pot." I Monica Rowland PROGRAM COORDINATOR am reminded of this each day on my way to work. 1 drive down Ann Schoenacher DIRECTOR, FLORIDA CENTER FOR TEACHERS a St. Petersburg street that has 1 2 different ethnic restaurants Diane Wakeman FLORIDA STUDIES INTERN or grocery stores-including Bosnian, Vietnamese, and Palestinian-in a 20-block stretch. FHC FORUM / Vol. XXX. No.3. FALL 2006 02006 FHC The magazine of the Florida Humanities Couescil "Tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are," writes 599 Second Street South, St. Petersburg, FL 33701-5005 French food writer Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. Well, my 727 873-2000 breakfast this morning was Cuhan coffee and a guava pastry. I Website: snvw.llalsLIsn.org The Florida lIumaaSirie, council It. a nonprofit organization fianded by the National lunched on Thai noodles. And I look forward to my husband’s Endowmeor for the Humanities, the ante ofFlorida, and private contributors. FHC homemade salsa and enchiladas for dinner. I guess that makes FORUM is published three times a yean sod distributed to the friends ofthe Florida me a 2I’-century Floridian! Humanities Council and interested Floridians. lfyou wish to be added to the mailing list, please request solo wrilillg or via the FHC webaite. Views expressed by cootribo’ rota to the FORUM are not necessarily those ofthe Florida Humanities Council. COEL A vendor in Miamia Little Havana serves op col+& with a smile. Photograph by Andrew Itltoff/Sileet Image Special Thanks go to Par Tuttle, Jim Schnur, and Andrew Hose, librarians at the University ofSouth Florida Libraries, Special Collections. table of contents 2 Humanities Alive! News of the Florida Humanities Council 4 FLORIDA FOOD Centuries of adapting and fusing food cultures result in a constantly evolving multicultural, multiethnic feast. B GARY R. Mop.r,&lNo 10 The REAL First Thanksgiving Meal A half-century before the Pilgrims, Spanish settlers gave thanks in St. Augustine. BY MICHAEL GANNON 12 Miami’s Old-World Flavor To eat authentic dishes from all over theAmericas, just go to Miami. By VIvIANA CARHALLO 15 Nuevo Flavor l"Tew South American chefs bring pizzazz to high-end Miami cuisine. BY CHRIs SHERMAN 16 Creating Cuisine Learn how some chefs invent new dishes. BY VIvIANA CxiulALl.o is Multicolored Memories Recollections as sweet as the southern food of a Jacksonville childhood. B KitTy OLIVER 20 Nochebuena Christmas Eve in Tampa’s Thor City was a magical time of abundance. BY FEanIE PACHECO 24 Paradise on a Plate How a homely crustacean became a delicious symbol of South Florida. B NIC0LAA5 MINK 30 Celebrating Survival Together African Americans in the Panhandle socialized for sustenance. By JERRILYN MCGREGORY 34 Candlelight Dining A guide for eating well-after the storm without power or running water. 36 The Little Lime that Could... A tart traveler becomes a Florida culinary icon. FHC &‘ard Chairman David Co/bwrn at left accepts a statewide awardfor FORUM magazine ac the recent F/odeha Magazine /lssocktion FM4 ceremony in Or/acadia. alive. Porseneing the award is Jim C/ark, incoming FMA president. C/ark, publisher afOclaodo Magazine, is a/ca a member sfFHCi board The imposing Castillo de San Marcos is just one of the historic sites teachers explore during the St. Augustine workshops. FHC receives fourth major grant for FORUM honored St. Augustine workshops FORUM magazine received four statewide awards at the 2006 For the fourth consecutive year, FHC has received a major Florida Magazine Association ceremony held recently in Orlando. grant from the National Endowment for the Humanities to FORUM was honored for general excellence and for "Cracker conduct teacher workshops in St. Augustine. Two weekiong Country," FORUM’s Winter 2006 issue. The honors, received in the workshops will be offered in summer 2007 to educators from category for associations, were: Florida and across the United States. Lcd by distinguished archaeologists, historians, and other scholars, the teachers * Silver Award second place for General Excellence for Best will delve into the history and heritage of the nation’s oldest Overall Magazine permanent European settlement. An estimated 100 teachers * Silver Award for Writing Excellence for Best Written Magazine will participate in the active, hands-on workshops entitled, "Between Columbus and Jamestown: Spanish St. Augustine." * "Charley" Award first place for General Excellence in a special- theme issue, for "Cracker Country," which focused on the 2004 when Since FHC created this program, nearly 600 teachers- pioneers and cattle ranchers who settled the state. some from as &r away as Alaska and Maine-have attended the workshops, which focus on America’s Spanish colonial experience * Bronze Award third place for Writing Excellence, for the article 56 years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. Participants "Cracker Music," by writer Peter B. Gallagher. examine historical archives, archaeological artifacts, and the wealth of national landmarks and prescrved buildings that make up St. School districts invited to apply Augustine’s historic quarter. Teachers stay at the historic Flagler for Florida-history workshops college and receive stipends to cover food, lodging, and travel. For more information contact Monica Rowland at FHC will provide workshops on 20th-century Florida history at 727 873-2005 or [email protected] school districts around the state